Digital Assembly Instructions for your new Kromski Harp Rigid

Transcription

Digital Assembly Instructions for your new Kromski Harp Rigid
Digital Assembly Instructions for your new Kromski Harp Rigid Heddle Loom & Stand
Welcome to the Dakota Designs Digital loom assembly instructions.
 To make these instructions we assembled a Kromski 16-inch Harp and stand.
 Assembly of the 24-inch and 32-inch looms is identical. The pieces are just larger!
 These images match up with the steps in the assembly instructions that came with your loom.
First thing to do:
Open the box and inspect all the parts. Make sure all parts are there.
Note that this Harp was purchased with an optional bag.
READ the instructions. Be sure you understand what you will be doing. Look at the illustrations.
If you do not understand something, call Tim Horchler at New Voyager 229-227-1322.
They will help!!
New Voyager's Website is http://www.newvoyager.com/
They have videos for assembling your Kromski product at http://www.youtube.com/NewVoyagerVideo
Step 1:
Place the two side frames on your work surface. The picture shows the right frame. Note that the metal
hinge is attached to the rear part of the frame. Dakota's left hand is holding the rear part of the frame.
The Kromski" logo is on the front part of the frame.
In this image, Dakota is standing at the rear of the frame. The photo is taken from the front of the frame.
Step 2:
Blunt the sharp "beak" on each plastic pawl with sand paper, a file, or an emery board. Be sure to keep
the edge square.
Step 2:
Attach them to the Right frame with the beaks pointing out.
Step 3:
Place the front & rear beams into the frame. Be sure that you have each beam in the correct place.
Here's the key--If you are standing at the front of the loom, you should be able to rotate the beam
towards yourself. If you try to rotate the beam towards the rear of the loom, the pawl will catch the
ratchet teeth and prevent it. It will rotate clockwise, but not counterclockwise.
By the same token, if you are standing at the rear of the loom, you should be able to rotate the beam
towards yourself. If you try to rotate the beam towards the front of the loom, the pawl will catch the
ratchet teeth and prevent it. It will rotate counterclockwise, but not clockwise.
In this image, Dakota is standing at the rear of the loom.
This image shows the correct orientation of both front and rear ratchets and pawls.
The rear is to the left of the image.
Step 4:
Note the numbers on the cross supports math up with numbers on the frame. This makes it impossible to
get them incorrectly installed.
Step 4:
Now screw both cross supports to the frame.
 Be sure to insert the front & rear beams as you do so!
 Keep the screws loose until all 8 screws are in.
 Then snug the screws down with the loom on a flat surface, so the finished frame will sit flat when
you are done.
 Remember -- Snug is fine. You don't want to tighten them down too firmly! This is wood we are
dealing with here!
Step 5:
Attach the 4 handles to the protruding ends of the front & rear beams.
Note that there is a line on each handle so you can line up the screw-hole in the handle with the hole predrilled near the end of each beam.
I like to gently tap them on with a mallet. Shown is a rawhide mallet. A wood or rubber mallet will work
too. You can even use a large chunk of wood.
Note that in the series of images, the line on the handle and hole are not quite lined up.
Make sure you correct this before tapping the handle on the beam end.
Voila!
The rear of the loom is to the left in this image.
Step 6:
Mount the heddle blocks in the first set of holes to the rear of the hinge. They need to be on the rear
section of the loom.
Step 7:
It is really important that the strings are all the same length. That's what allows you to have even tension
when you warp the loom. In these images, Dakota lines them up at on end and trims them to equal length.
After trimming them to the same length, Dakota hold both ends (one in each hand). She moves the into
the flame. Once she sees them begin to melt, she pulls them out of the flame, touches the ends together,
and rotates the joint between her fingers. Yes it is hot work--be careful that you don't burn your fingers!
In this next set of images, Dakota threads them onto the beams all exactly the same way.
The finished product!
Total construction was about 50 minutes & we were taking pictures!
The image shows the folded loom and in the bag ready to travel!
The loom stand -- a really convenient loom accessory!
Once again, make sure you have all the parts!
Read the instructions!
Call Tim if you don't understand!
Step 1
Assemble uprights into feet. Note that long section of foot is towards the front. Note that you will need
an allen wrench for this, not a screw driver. Screw bolt into the barrel shaped connector firmly, but do not
tighten down. Note that there is no "right" or "left" upright, so there is no way to get it wrong!
Step 2:
Attach the cross piece. The "Kromski" logo goes faces the front of the stand, which has the longer
portion of the feet. Once the cross piece is firmly fitted, snug up the feet to the uprights, making sure the
feet are square.
Note that this series of images shows:
 At the top, the flats are towards the inside.
 In the middle, the flats are towards the outside.
 At the bottom, the long part of the feet face towards the front of the stand.
Step 3:
Note that there are 6 bolts for attaching the loom & angle braces. 4 are shorter & 2 are longer.
The longer bolts are for attaching the angle braces to the uprights.
The shorter bolts are for attaching the loom to the uprights and the angle braces to the loom.
These are carriage bolts with a square piece up near the head. They will set themselves into the wood as
you snug the wing nut down. Or you can tap the head with your mallet.
This image shows both angle braces attached. Note that we used the second hole on the angle brace.
There are several holes to allow you to position the loom from level to slightly angled for maximum
comfort and efficiency while weaving.
The next image shows the loom attached to the uprights, using the shorter carriage bolts.
Note that in the 2nd image, Dakota is at the rear of the stand.
Looky Looky, We're Done!!!!!!!