NRR October/November 2012

Transcription

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Northern Rockies Rider
Volume 1, Number 7 • October/November, 2012 • A Continental Communications Publication • [email protected] • 406-498-3250
Boise to Salmon: a rider’s nirvana in every respect
By Cole Boehler
Even after riding the Northern
Rockies for over three decades, there
are still opportunities to discover and
explore new riding gems in the region.
We affirmed this on a five-day 2010
excursion that took us across Idaho and
into the Hells Canyon and Wallowa
area of northeast Oregon, back into
and north through Idaho, and back to
Montana.
While most of that route was
exquisite riding, Hwy. 21 northeast out
of Boise was entirely new to us and
was a tour highlight. We then tied in
Hwy. 75 from it’s junction with 21 at
Stanley to its junction with Hwy. 93
just south of Challis, Idaho, then north
to Salmon and the Montana border.
We wanted to reprise Hwys. 21, 75
and 93 in 2012 – The Ponderosa Pines
Scenic Byway – so Marilyn and I took
three days – Friday-Sunday, May 11-13
– and headed toward Boise. Weather
forecasts were perfect for mid-May:
sunny and warm.
At our 9 a.m. departure from
our home at 5,400 feet of elevation,
the temperature was in the mid-30s
so we were layered up. We headed
south on the back roads along I-15
toward 6,870-foot Monida Pass at the
Montana-Idaho border.
By the time we finished breakfast
at the Calf-A in Dell, Mont., (excellent
food, great people, rich ambiance in
an old schoolhouse), we started delayering.
Crossing the line
We topped the pass and dropped into
Dubois, Idaho, then picked up Hwy.
22 southwest to Howe, then Arco. This
segment consists of mostly straight
roadways with good surfaces through
sagebrush prairies and some intensively
cultivated hay and potato grounds.
The first time we were through
Howe in 2010, we expected to get gas
but the station and C-store was closed.
When we passed through in 2011, the
business was open, but closed again in
2012. Lesson: don’t count on securing
The turns get tighter and more numerous while the surface remains high quality as
riders approach Mores Creek Summit.
fuel in Howe.
At Arco we picked up Hwy. 20
west through Carey to Fairfield which
was our day’s destination. This is
unadventurous touring but traffic was
relatively light, the pavement was good
and pretty mountain ranges lay at a
distance – all pleasant enough.
Hwy. 20 skirts the northern
See Boise to Salmon, Page 10
Vintage motocross at ‘The Farm’ in Chehalis
By Rich Rossberg
NR Rider Contributor
trying to get to the races in one piece!
Evidently I was missing some very small
disclaimer on every speed limit sign from Great Falls,
Mont., to Chehalis, Wash., stating, “This speed is
only a recommendation.”
Now, I could never confirm this because the signs
My heart rate was at an all time high and I was
holding on for dear life. The mountain landscape
was flying by and my vision was blurred by the
sheer acceleration and
radical motion.
Flying out of one
corner and into the
next, my concentration
level never wavered.
One mistake at these
speeds and it could be
all over.
Luckily I couldn’t
quite see how fast we
were going, because
Ford had designed
the new F150 so that
you can’t see the
speedometer from the
passenger seat. All I
really knew was that
my buddy, Bob, kept
complaining about
the “cut-off chip” that
would not let him go
any faster!
That’s right, I
wasn’t racing yet, just This rider is Tony Fox from Tacoma, Wash. Photo by Reese Dengler
were going by so fast they seemed merely a blur,
but Bob assured me that he had actually seen it once
when he was going slower. It must have been true,
because we made it there without being jailed for
high crimes or even misdemeanors.
The actual race seemed kind of calming compared
to the ride to it.
Old vintage motocross
bikes were everywhere.
This was a national
American Historic Racing
Motorcycle Association
(AHRMA) event, Aug.
11-12 at “The Farm” near
Chehalis, Wash.
Event officials said there
were approximately 370
riders and bikes registered
for the Sunday motocross
racing, spread across nearly
50 classes. In addition, 63
signed up for the Saturday
trials events.
Nothing newer than a
1974 machine could be used
in the competitions. A lot of
the people there were also
vintage, but there are rider
age classes and bike classes.
Young men from the age of
See Motocross, Page 2
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Reflections
on my first
12,000 miles
How high
can you
ride?
Page 8
Page 14
Northern Rockies Rider - 2
October/November 2012
Motocross
Not only did he race at “The Farm” in the past, he
practice. It seemed my bike was jetted very poorly
also held a motocross school there. That’s one thing
for the altitude. It ran okay when it was wide open,
I regret, not attending his school before his untimely
but very rich when off the throttle and that made
from page 1
death in an automobile accident.
riding through corners a real treat: one second the
Jim was one of my heroes when I was young. In
bike would barely go, acting like it might foul a plug,
18 to grizzled veterans as old as 83 raced that day.
fact Jim handed me the only first place trophy I ever
and the next second it was tearing the bars out of my
In the sportsman classes any age group can
won here. It was unbelievable and I remember it like
hands!
compete, but the bike has to be a certain engine size,
it was yesterday. Jim’s brother Ron Pomeroy,
be it a 125cc, 250cc or Open Class (500 and larger).
Brad Lackey and Tim Rapp have raced here,
These classes are very competitive and there are a
too, and the ever-reliable Dick Mann can be
lot of fast guys. For example, I’m 54 and in this class seen here every year.
I might be racing against 18-year-old studs. To step
The reason they call this place “The Farm”
it down a notch you can also ride in your age class –
is because that is exactly what it is.
Some very nice people set their land
aside for us to literally tear up.
Dick Mann usually stakes out
the course Saturday night before the
Sunday races. With wood stakes and
ribbon he designs an obstacle course
around the natural terrain and through
the woods. It goes up valleys, down
hills and around trees on an all natural
grass track that is literally different
every year.
It’s amazing and it brings up
memories of my youth, like back when
Jody Heintzman of Vashon Island, Wash. Jody is on his 750
motocross wasn’t in giant stadiums
with giant jumps and in front of tens of Norton which he races in the Premier Open Twins class. Photo by
Reese Dengler
thousands of people. Like everything
else in life, those days seemed much
Author Rich Rossburg, Great Falls, Mont., mildly roosting on
simpler.
In addition, my clutch was dragging and that just
his ‘74 Yamaha MX360. Photo by Reese Dengler
Sunday morning arrives and the dew is
added to the same problem. Luckily I was able to
plus-40, plus-50, plus-60 and, believe it or not, plusstill on the grass when I push the old 1974 Yamaha
adjust the clutch and my buddy, Bob, fixed the jetting
70 years old!
MX360 up to get it inspected.
by telling me to just hold the throttle wide open (gee,
I don’t mean to make it sound like these classes
It seems like almost every year the guy checking
I never thought of that).
are easy or slow. They are decidedly not. Most
my bike has to say something negative. Usually my
At the end of the day there were no trophies for
of these riders go to multiple races a year and are
bikes are fairly well prepared, but this year I was
the boys of Montana, but my cable never did break.
competing for national points.
short of time. (Who am I kidding? It’s like that every
I managed to get a seventh place finish in one
Every year there are famous people racing at these year – using the last minute to get ready.)
moto in the plus-50 class, so I was happy. Nobody got
national motocross races.
This time he informed me that my throttle didn’t
hurt and that was the main goal, though my ego may
I have had the privilege of watching one of
return very well and that I should take a look at it. I
have been bruised a little, because I thought I was a
America’s finest MXers race here. Jim Pomeroy was
protested that it probably had some dirt in it, or I just
bit faster than I turned out to be.
the first American to ever win a GP race in Europe.
had the throttle grip too close the handlebar, so he
My body let me know for the next three days that
passed me.
I was no
But back at the truck
longer
I decided to take a look
young
at it and spray some WD
and if I
down the cable. Once
was to be
I got it apart, though,
competitive
I discovered that the
I might
throttle cable had started
want to
to come apart! Great:
practice
734 miles to go racing
and get in
and a $15 cable is going
shape.
to ruin the whole day?
But I
I lubed it anyway,
did beat
rearranged the frayed
Bob in the
part of the cable and
Jon Wall, Gig Harbor, Wash., leading Jim Cole, Chehalis, Wash. only race
put the throttle back
we were
Photo by Reese Dengler
together. It felt better, but
both in, so
in all likelihood it would break during practice there’s that – bragging rights!
or, worse yet, come completely apart and stick
I’ll probably go again next year... Heck, I may
Stephen Newell, Bend, Ore., on a very nice BSA GP Victor. Photo wide open!
keep on going until they have to plant me six feet
by Reese Dengler
My next problem was discovered during
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Opinion
Tragedy must be an opportunity to learn
By Cole Boehler
NR Rider Editor
This is an actual news story that broke Sept.
3 detailing a terrible motorcycle wreck that
occurred the day before, a Sunday that was
an otherwise beautiful day for riding. It was
carried by Lee Newspapers and others around
Montana.
Two men were killed and three other people
were injured Sunday in a chain-reaction crash
that involved a pickup truck and a pack of four
motorcycles on Montana Highway 86 outside of
Wilsall.
The collision happened just after 6 p.m.,
according to the Montana Highway Patrol. A
49-year-old man from Belgrade was driving
eastbound in a Toyota Tundra pickup a few miles
northwest of Wilsall.
The motorcycles were riding westbound on the
highway, led by a 29-year-old man from Bismarck,
N.D., who was driving a Harley-Davidson but wasn’t
wearing a helmet.
Behind him was a 40-year-old man from Belgrade
riding a Harley-Davidson also without on a helmet;
a 34-year-old male from Belgrade on a Harley
Davidson who was wearing a helmet; and a 31-yearold man and a 37-year-old woman passenger on a
Honda motorcycle, both from Belgrade and neither
one wearing a helmet.
The first rider, followed by the other three
motorcycles, attempted to pass in the right-hand
curve on a double-yellow line, the MHP said. The
man’s bike went into the oncoming lane of traffic and
hit the Toyota Tundra head-on.
That caused a chain-reaction crash with the
second and third motorcycles, and the man riding
on the fourth bike attempted to avoid the others by
laying his bike down.
The lead motorcyclist, from Bismarck, and the
40-year-old from Belgrade both were pronounced
dead at the scene. The 34-year-old man was treated
for injuries at the scene, and the 31-year-old man
from Belgrade and his passenger also were treated at
the scene.
Alcohol was believed to be a factor in the crash,
the MHP said, among some of the motorcyclists.
The man driving the pickup was wearing a seat
belt and was not injured, the MHP said.
As always, our hearts go out to the victims
and their families. We have lost an immediate
family member to a traffic crash and so have
some inkling of the shock and pain many people
are experiencing over this tragedy.
From a sterile and analytical distance,
however, so much is wrong with this reported
scenario.
Subsequent reports revealed some or most of
the riders worked in motorcycle dealerships, so
perhaps we can conclude they were seasoned
riders, which makes the questions and answers
even more difficult to assess and process.
Why did the lead rider attempt this pass?
Why did the lead rider attempt this pass over
a double-yellow?
Why did the lead rider attempt this pass over
a double-yellow into an apparently blind corner?
Perhaps the toughest question to answer is,
why did the three trailing riders follow the leader
into this horrific accident?
We hate such senseless mayhem and
suffering – and hate rehashing it – but as
dedicated riders we must ask these questions.
We must try to discern the mistakes made in
order that we never repeat them.
The primary mistake was the reported
consumption of alcohol by one or more of the
riders. Note, the story says alcohol was believed
to be a factor, and not necessarily the cause,
though there is an implied link. The story does
not say anyone was impaired or actually legally
drunk.
We reported these relevant statistics in our
May edition of Northern Rockies Rider from an
October 2011 U.S. Department of Transportation
report (DOT HS 811 389):
“Blood alcohol content for motorcycle
fatalities was also significantly higher than for
other vehicle drivers, 29 percent at .08 or higher
for bikes v. 23 percent for cars and light trucks.
“...42 percent of the 1,903 riders who died in
single-vehicle crashes in 2009 had a BAC of .08
or more; 63 percent of riders who died in singlevehicle crashes on weekends were legally
drunk; riders killed at night were three times as
likely to be drunk as those killed during the day.”
Perhaps it bears infinite repeating: Drinking
and riding don’t mix, period.
We also wrote:
“Weekends produce significantly more
dangerous riding than weekdays. The report
showed 53 percent of motorcycle fatalities
occurred 6 p.m. Friday to 6 a.m. Monday; the
rest – less than half – between Monday morning
and Friday evening.
“Undoubtedly the most miles ridden are also
during weekends. Still, let’s take extra care on
weekends and never ride after drinking.”
Alcohol impairs the mind and body, but most
importantly, it impairs our judgment.
Clearly faulty judgment was the cause of this
crash.
It was poor judgment to pass on a doubleyellow in a blind curve. Just as importantly, it
was clearly bad judgment for the trailing riders to
blindly follow the leader into tragedy.
Remember, we’re not attempting to cast
blame here; we are trying to understand.
Did the trailing riders assume the leader
could see the way ahead was clear? Did they
simply assume he’d never lead them into a
dangerous situation? Did the trailing riders
asses the situation individually and make their
own terribly mistaken determination that it was
safe to pass?
The real answers may never be known, but
the lessons are clear:
Don’t drink and ride.
Don’t pass on a solid yellow, or in a curve
where the way ahead is not perfectly clear.
And this, perhaps most importantly, don’t –
not ever – assume the leader knows what he is
doing or assume that what he is doing is safe.
Always make your own personal judgments
about when, or not, to make a maneuver. Be
responsible for yourself (and passenger) first.
We would also offer these opinions:
– Group riding is more dangerous than riding
solo.
– Riding in a tight group formation is more
dangerous than a loose one with two or three
seconds between bikes. Had they been spaced
well apart, would crashes two, three and four
have occurred?
We do wonder why the reporter included the
manufacture of the vehicles, even the make
of the pickup. How is that relevant? We are
seeing this more frequently, especially when the
accident involves motorcycles.
We can understand reporting when helmets
are, or are not, in use, just as the press has
been reporting seatbelt use or non-use. This
information is relevant to forming judgments
about the crash and the seriousness of the
aftermath, and may influence individual choices
regarding safety equipment. It may also shape
public opinion and policy.
We would also like to know if the riders were
properly licensed or had taken rider safety
courses.
The bottom line is many mistakes were made
that day, mistakes which resulted in two fatalities
and three other injured parties, as well as a
traumatized pickup driver.
Let’s not blame, but let’s ponder the mistakes
and learn from them.
Ethanol Free Fuel
David Fletcher of Butte, Mont., a reader
and now contributor to Northern Rockies
Rider, suggested we publicize this web
site for riders who prefer their fuel without
ethanol.
<http://pure-gas.org/>
The site is easy to use: just click on your
state’s regional notation at the bottom of the
home page and you’ll have a listing for the
service stations that offer E-free gasoline.
The list is printable or you can access it with
your electronic devices while on the road.
Thanks for the tip, David!
Opinion
What’s your definition of
a ‘good motorcycle ride’?
By Cole Boehler
Editor and Publisher
part of Montana, the northwest
corner of the state – the Yaak
Country, Lake Koocanusa and
Flathead lake. Even illness and
What’s your definition of a “good foul, wet weather couldn’t entirely
devalue that
motorcycle
tour.
ride”?
We were
Ours
busy with
is: “We
work and
returned
Cole Boehler
motorcycle
without an
Editor and Publisher
shows and
incident or
events during
problem.”
much of June
Pretty
and July, so
simple.
didn’t really
By our
get out again until early August.
definition, almost every single ride
we have taken qualifies as “good.”
However, beyond “good”
More late-season rides
we hope to apply adjectives
That time we covered about
like “incredible,” “awesome,”
1,000 miles in three days. There
“spectacular,” “fantastic,”
were six of us (three of us siblings
“extraordinary,” “amazing,”
with our mates) on three bikes. That
“magnificent” and more.
tour covered the Beartooth Highway
Maybe it’s global warming, but
of Montana and Wyoming, the Chief
we find early- and late-season rides
Joseph Scenic Byway and the Big
now seem more plausible than
Horn Mountains of Wyoming.
ever before, so we may yet get in
Those three legs would probably
another good, long one.
qualify for most North American Top
With the 2012 season winding
Ten lists, and certainly anyone’s
down we have to note several trips
Top Twenty list. “Incredible,” yadda
we took this year that qualify as
yadda...
“incredible, awesome, spectacular,
Then in mid-August we did a
fantastic, extraordinary, amazing”
little 500-mile overnighter up to Fort
and “magnificent.”
Benton in north central Montana,
then back through Great Falls and
Some great
along some of our favorite roads
along the Missouri River to Helena,
spring rides
then home.
In late April we rode 1,500 miles
In between were several good
in Montana, Idaho, British Columbia
day-rides.
and Washington, then back through
Idaho and home to Montana. We
did this with one quite tolerable day
Seeking the familiar
of rain and four days of beautiful
sunshine, one of which we rode, for and the new
Our longest tour of the year (so
the sheer joy of it, in shirtsleeves in
far) began Aug. 29 and concluded
80-degree air!
Sept. 5 – eight days, five of which
In May, again in three days of
were dedicated to riding (one
perfect weather, we rode some
was for a wedding and two were
fantastic Idaho routes: to Boise,
then Lowman, Stanley, Salmon and for visiting long-time friends). We
covered 1,800.3 miles end-to-end
home through Montana’s Big Hole
in absolutely
perfect
weather: high
40s to low 50s
in the morning
warming to
high 70s and
even low
80s in the
afternoon.
This trip
took us to St.
Regis, Mont.,
then over the
pass and along
the St. Joe
River to St.
In the Kettle River Range en route to the ferry at Inchelium: very Maries, Idaho
(featured in
good pavement, dozens of excellent turns, pretty country and
the April, 2012
no traffic.
NRR). (Editor’s
note: Our April review noted the
River valley.
top 10-12 miles of the Idaho side of
In early June we got in a few
the pass was getting pretty rough.
days and 800 miles in our favorite
Well, in late
August, that
was all being
rebuilt and
ought to be
awesome
next spring.
We did
struggle
navigating
50- to 200yard patches
of loose
and deeply
graveled
roadbed,
fully loaded,
pitching
downhill with
the front end
Palouse Falls between Starbuck and Kahlotus. We loafed here for
tending to
a good half hour, stretching out the kinks and rehydrating.
head where
it wanted.)
and enjoyed a break at stunning
We made our way to the Palouse Palouse Falls.
Country of east-central Washington
We cruised deserted asphalt,
(featured in the June, 2012 NRR),
some of it pleasantly twisted,
stopping in to see our favorite
through fields of grain, potatoes,
barista, Melinda, at the Eclair coffee corn, onions, alfalfa and fruit
shop in Tekoa. Then it was to
orchards to Kahlotus and Connell
Steptoe Butte, St. Johns, LaCrosse and finally Othello for the night.
and south to routes brand new to
The agricultural productivity of the
us.
region, possible with Columbia
With just over one million square River irrigation water and a hot
miles in the Northern Rockies
climate, is stunning.
region, even after riding the area
At Othello, I recalled spending
for 30-plus years it is comforting to
a night here in the third week of
know there are still new pieces of
September in 1983, 29 years ago.
excellent, extraordinary, incredible,
I’d been to the coast on my ‘83
etc. tarmac to seek out and explore. Honda CB 1100 F. When I awoke
Yes, new roads...
in the morning, it was raining. It
snowed heavily as I rode U.S.
Hwy. 12 over Lolo Pass and into
Irrigation transformed Missoula, Mont. You just don’t
forget a day like that. (See the
this country
article on hypothermia elsewhere in
We crossed the Snake River
this issue!)
south of LaCrosse en route to
We kept west, passing through
Dodge (great saloon) and Starbuck,
Royal
City to I-90 where we
where there was a tremendous
crossed it and the Columbia, then
flea market lining the highway. Recrossing the Snake, we stopped
See Good ride, Page 5
Published “Almost Monthly” (nine times annually) - Feb., April-Oct., Dec.
A Continental Communications Publication
914 Holmes Ave., Butte, MT 59701
406-498-3250 • <[email protected]>
Editor and Publisher - Cole D. Boehler • <[email protected]>
Business and Sales Manager - Dani M. Rollison
<[email protected]> 406-490-8472
Wyoming Correspondent - Dottie Rankin
Western South Dakota/Wyoming Representative - Earl Rankin
Graphic Design - Rocky Mountain Inspired - Joel Martens
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All rights reserved by the publisher
Good ride
from page 4
took a pleasant backroad to Kittitas.
Oooo, Hwy. 821 south through the
Yakima River Canyon was sweet
but with an oh-so-slow speed limit...
and it was being patrolled!
At Selah we headed west
through Naches, then Rimrock and
White Pass, Packwood to Ashford
(very remote but very rough), and
Alder, then north to Sumner for the
night. It was a short one-hour jaunt
to Green Lake and Seattle the next
morning. The wedding was equally
short and sweet; the best kind.
New roads to the east
We pulled out of Green Lake
and the Seattle metro area
Sunday morning at 7:20. After fully
traversing the state, 12 hours and
10 minutes later we rolled up the
gravel driveway of friends Jim and
Diane Bailey who have a place
along the east shore of the Pend
Orielle River about 80 miles north of
Spokane.
That long day had us hitting
Woohoo! Though speeds were
posted at 50 mph, then 35 at the
twisty summit, we, er, pushed it a
little over that, heh heh. Talk about
getting some wear from the edges
of the tires!
Then down into Chewelah,
another quick pit stop, then across
the Flowery Trail (gotta love that
name), past the 49 Degrees ski
area, giving a nod to a doe, fawn
and little buck still in velvet, then
dropping down into the Pend Orielle
River Valley at Usk.
At this point we’d covered about
1,400 miles, yet this last 30 miles
was the absolute best piece of
moto-road on the whole trip ... and
it was entirely new to us! There’s
a reason (actually several) that I
journal my trips. This one will call us
back!
any minute but we made it over
and down into Missoula, Mont., and
back home to Butte, our apparel
stinking like a campfire.
What it’s all about
This tour represents what sport
touring is all about: Riding a good
bike with a good companion over
excellent roads that are both
familiar and new, seeing new sights
and communities while meeting
great people, then taking a break
to hang with family while a nephew
gets hitched, and hooking up with
25-year friends for a couple of days
to celebrate their new home.
Our definition of a “good
motorcycle ride”?
“We returned without an incident
or problem.”
This trip was “good” though
it went well beyond that. We will
apply the adjectives “incredible,”
“awesome,” “spectacular,”
“fantastic,” “extraordinary,”
“amazing,” and “magnificent.”
Ah, life is sweet.
All roads lead to...
The lack of motion
was welcome
It was dusky – almost dark – as
we rolled the last 19 miles up the
river shore to our friends’ brand
spanking new home. There we
cooled our jets for a couple of days
with good brews, good barbecued
chicken and
ribs, and some
fine cocktails
including a
little Sailor
Jerry rum
with lime and
ginger ale.
None of
what we rode
home was
new, but it
was all grand:
to Usk and
Newport, then
Plummer,
Idaho,
Moscow,
Looking east on Hwy. 12, about 20 miles from Lolo Pass on the
Kendrick,
Idaho side. This is at Colgate Lick and the smoke got worse –
Orofino,
much worse – before it got better.
Kamiah,
Lowell
and
Lolo
Pass.
About 20
Bothell northwest of Seattle, then
miles
from
the
top
of
the
pass,
picking up Hwy. 2 at Monroe and
visibility was down to 100 yards
running that to Wenatchee. We
due to forest fire smoke. I was
hooked into Hwy. 91A north along
afraid we’d run into a road block
the Columbia to Chelan for lunch.
The route to Chelan was all
pleasant enough once away from
urbania, but it was after Chelan that
we began to hit our stride in terms
of remote and rural two-lane, much
of it mountainous to boot.
Right out of Chelan we found
what is apparently a county road
that took us through grain country,
even a two-mile stretch of gravel
before blacktop resumed. We
ranged up toward Bridgeport, then
east to Grand Coulee Dam and a
refreshment stop.
Ahh, things were looking up as
we hooked north toward Elmer City,
then east to Hwy. 21, then north
through Keller to where we picked
up the little secondary to the ferry at
the Inchelium-Gifford crossing over
Roosevelt Lake (Columbia River
reservoir behind Grand Coulee
Dam). Wow, is that some fine
mountain riding!
At Gifford we ran to Addy
www.butlermaps.com
because the slightly shorter route to
Blue Creek was under construction.
6
5
7
4
1
3
2
BOZEMAN
BILLINGS
3. 2505 W. Main St.
406-587-9323
BILLINGS
4. 2900 Harrison Ave.
406-494-2490
1. 765 S. 20th St. West
406-656-6640
2. 825 N. 27th St.
406-248-8320
Dream.
riDe.
MISSOULA
BUTTE
6. 2275 N. Reserve St.
406-543-3330
HELENA
7. 1285 N. 1st St.
406-363-0140
5. 1803 Cedar St.
406-442-5757
HAMILTON
Opinion
I bought gear and choose whether to wear some, or all, of it
Protective gear is a personal choice
By Dottie Rankin
not to promote any point of view
passenger, Marilyn, choose to ride
affect more than just you.
regarding use of safety gear. I figure
with protective gear.
Axmaker says, “Honor those who
There are so many things to take
we are all adults and can make
Cole wrote me:
love you, choose gear that will help
into consideration when you start
the protective gear decisions for
“Protective gear makes sense,
you survive a crash.”
riding a motorcycle, it is hard to know ourselves.
for me anyway. In my opinion good
He points out that on a bike we
what to consider first or foremost.
I am above all pro choice, no
protective gear may not necessarily
don’t have all the protective devices
I didn’t give protective gear much
matter what the issue.
‘save’ you but it will almost certainly
that automobile drivers benefit
thought when I started riding in 2011.
When angered, I tend to snap,
increase your odds; it won’t prevent
from; we simply have what we are
I was focused on keeping the bike
pop and then cool off. Rational
injury but it will likely reduce the
wearing. If we crash on a bike, we
upright, so at the time I didn’t realize
thinking then sets in and I start
severity, especially rash to your
are more likely to lose.
how closely the two are related.
gathering facts and opinions from
hide.”
So I had to make the best
I believe the decision to wear, or
riders and other resources I respect
Then he said something about
informed decision for me, the
to not wear, protective gear is best
and trust.
his friend who had terrible road rash
decision that will help me to survive
left up to the individual.
The first person I talked to was of
after a crash, and that Demerol did
a crash if, God forbid, I should go
We all know that bikers’ rights
course my husband, Earl. He is an
not help when they put him in the
down. It is, after all, not just about
and protective gear is controversial.
excellent, highly experienced rider.
whirlpool and took brushes to his
me.
Supporters of mandatory use of
I trust and respect his opinion. He
filthy wounds. Yep, enough said.
There is a lot to be said for an
protection claim it will reduce injuries
chooses to
Cole went on to say that he is a
honest give and take of the facts and
and death among bikers. Critics cite
not wear any “defender of individual liberty and
opinions if handled in a responsible
important freedoms and rights.
protective
is generally opposed to a Nanny
fashion, so perhaps some good did
In our state, Wyoming, it is not
gear.
State that micro-manages our
come out of the website censorship
mandatory to wear any protective
Earl says
personal lives. The fewer rules and
mentioned earlier: I educated myself
gear so the personal choice was left
there was
regulations, generally the better.”
on protective gear out of sheer
up to me.
not a lot of
He added, “I’m pro-choice when it
stubbornness, then have made my
There were many people on
safety gear
comes to motorcycle gear or not, as
personal choices.
both sides of the fence who gave
out there
well as with most other issues.”
I have decided that protective
me perspectives I used to make an
when he
I also follow a column that Stacey gear can and will save lives, and it
informed choice in this important
started riding “Ax” Axmaker writes. He is director
will prevent injuries or, at the very
issue. The internet, too, is filled with
as a young
of Idaho STAR (Skills Training
least, lessen the severity of them.
websites and essays both pro and
man. Taking
Advantage for Riders). He has
con, and there are a lot of local and
up riding
good credentials, and writes
Earl Rankins’ typical
national rider groups dedicated to
years later
in a way that makes sense to
riding get up.
protecting bikers’ rights, but also to
after a hiatus, me.
biker safety.
he says he took up right where he
He wrote, “There
It boiled down to educating myself left off and never gave a thought to
is probably no area of
and making the right personal
protective gear.
motorcycle riding or
decision.
“ATGATT” was a foreign phrase
motorcycle safety that
It came to a head one day for
to him, and the people he rode with
generates as much
me when some photos I posted on
didn’t wear gear. Protective gear, he
controversy as riding gear.”
a website I used to frequent were
says, was never an issue.
I would have to agree.
taken down without my permission.
Matt and Jessica Hopkins took
Axman made a lot of valid
Not only without my permission, but
the time to talk to me. They have
points in his column:
After much research and contemplation, author
with no communication whatsoever
been riding since 2005 and 2006,
• There are only two
Dottie Rankins’ gear investments.
from the owners of the site.
respectively. They both choose to
aspects to motorcycle safety
I had posted a lot of photos and
ride without gear, and comfort is the
– preventing the crash and surviving
However I remain a fierce
blogging on this website; I was
main reason. They both state that
defender of freedom of personal
ranked as a senior member. In the
the only time they wear protective
choice. Protective gear is a personal
gear is when the law
choice that should be made by each
requires them to and then
individual. But with choice comes
it is only a helmet.
personal responsibility. I will choose
Jessica said that she
for myself and take the responsibility
has been scared enough
upon myself about how I dress when
by other motorcycle
I ride. I am smart enough and adult
crashes to swear she will
enough to make these decisions.
wear a helmet from then
Because of the research I did, I
on but, but she then adds
decided to invest in some protective
the next time she jumps
gear. I may not wear it 100 percent of
on her bike she always
the time, but I do own it.
Motorcycle safety expert Stacy “Ax”
decides not to. Riding free Axman is an ATTGAT guy for sure.
This is the list of my protective
is the motto of the Hopkins
gear.
The Rankins’ ungeared rider group, Dottie and Earl
household.
• Xelement CF-507 women’s
are fifth and sixth from the left. This was the pic
Another person I chose the crash. (This, for me, was a new
mesh sports armored motorcycle
censored by a riders’ web forum.
to talk to was NR Rider
way of thinking about riding.)
jacket.
editor and publisher Cole
• Motorcycles crashes DO
• Harley Davidson textile armored
instance in question, I posted photos Boehler. He is also an excellent,
happen.
jacket.
on this two-wheeler website showing experienced
• Though no
• Harley Davidson FXRG leather
scenery and roads that we ride, but
rider with
protective gear
jacket.
the pics also illustrated we were not
35 years in
guarantees 100
• Outlaw T-72 Dual-Visor glossy
wearing protective gear.
the saddle.
percent safety, a good half helmet with fancy graphics.
The moderators of that website
I knew
quality helmet, jacket,
• Leather gloves appropriate for
removed my photos which is their
he would
riding pants, boots
different types of weather, some
right, of course. They promote
give me
and gloves will reduce Harley Davidson brand, some
the “All The Gear All The Time”
his honest
and even prevent
Xelement.
(ATGATT) position on their website
opinion and
some injuries.
• Harley Davidson leather lace-up
and apparently don’t tolerate anyone the reasoning
• The pavement is
riding boots
with a differing view.
behind them.
not very forgiving to
• Riding sunglasses and clear
In posting these photos, my only
He and his
your body, your hide
riding glasses for night.
File photo of NR Rider editor and
intention was to promote the beauty
wife and
or your head.
• Xelement leather chaps.
publisher Cole Boehler, with his wife,
of the area in which we live and ride, constanat
• If you crash it will
• Fieldsheer armored riding pants.
Marilyn, fully geared up as usual.
Opinion
Old School:
If a woman wants to ride, more power to her
By Steve Kelley
NR Rider columnist
general increase in the number of
ladies on two wheels.
Bucky blurted out, “A woman’s
I took part in a local poker run
place is behind her old man. Damn
recently benefiting cancer research. women are crazy drivers, lookin’
in the mirror to check lipstick and
Not surprisingly, I noticed quite a
fiddlin’ with their purse while their
few women riders taking part.
foot is stompin’ on the gas pedal.
I stopped in at my favorite
I don’t think
watering
they can pay
hole
attention long
afterward
enough to ride
to wash
Steve “Big Daddy” Kelley
a bike right.”
down the
Guest Columnist
smoke of
Our old
buddy Scoops
nearby
took a long
forest
draw on his
fires and
brew and
found the
said to Bucky, “Well, I guess that
notorious B.O.G.s (bunch of
explains why you live alone.”
geezers) holding court. I grabbed a
I said, “Let’s ask Peaches, she’s
cold one and took my place at the
been ridin’ quite a while.”
round table.
I mentioned that I saw a lot of
Peaches is the bartender at our
watering hole. She is on the south
women riders that day and asked
side of 60, has a couple of grown
the B.O.G.s if they noticed a
Letter: Chicagoans enjoyed
Wyoming-Montana tour
Cole,
I can’t thank you
enough for putting this
suggested route together for us!
We did the whole route but
deviated by (northwest Montana’s)
Lake Koocanusa – went down the
east side – but will come back one
of these days to do the (west side)
FDR Highway.
We started a little slow so days
three and four were 400-plus miles
but worth it!! I fly back
to Chicago tomorrow while Joe
prepares to trailer the bikes home.
Time did not allow us to stay
around the Butte area long enough
for a visit but I hope we will meet
you and Marilyn one of these days!
Nancy and Joe Dietz
Chicago, Ill.
kids and a long list of old men.
She’s kind of like a slab of
bacon, all tough and bristly on
the outside, but under that rind is
a whole bunch of goodness. You
don’t give her any crap unless
you’re prepared for return fire.
She’d been listening to our
conversation while she mopped the
bar top.
I said, ”Peaches, what do you
think?”
“I think Bucky’s gonna get a boot
in his butt if he if he don’t shut up
about women riders. I’m in a club
of women riders that’s been around
longer than your sorry asses have
been on earth, the Motor Maids,
founded in 1941 by Linda Allen
Dugeau and Dot Robinson.
“Dot was racing back then,
and was famous for it. I looked up
to her, and tried my hand at flat
trackin’ in my wild years.”
“So you’re not wild now?” asked
Scoops.
“Not like the old days, but still
more than you can handle ol’ fella,”
she quipped. “I can still out-work,
out-party and out-ride you geezers
any day.”
Then she piled it on.
“Women can do five things at
once better than you can do one.
We are just wired that way so we
can raise kids and take care of all
the crap you numbskulls throw at
us.
“Both of my daughters ride their
own bikes. They got tired of being
scared to death sittin’ behind their
crazy husbands. Women are just as
able as men to throw a leg over a
bike and ride. If a woman wants to
ride, more power to her.”
We all stood and gave her a
round of applause.
Peaches got a brief blush on and
quickly recovered with, “So ya want
another round or what?”
Events
Calendar
USA National
• 2013 March 8-17 - Daytona Bike Week, Daytona Beach, Fla.,
<http://www.officialbikeweek.com/>
• 2013 June 8-16 - 90th Anniversary Laconia Motorcycle Week, Laconia,
New Hampshire, <http://www.laconiamcweek.com/>
• 2013 Aug. 5-11 - 73rd Annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, Sturgis, So. Dak.,
<http://www.sturgismotorcyclerally.com/>
Alberta
• Oct. 27 - Edmonton Swap Meet, 3840 76th Ave., Edmonton,
<[email protected]>, 780-435-7739
• Oct. 28 - Central Alberta Vintage Motorcycle Group Annual Swap Meet, Red Deer.
Stockman’s Pavillion, Westerner Grounds, 403-755-6308, <[email protected]>
British Columbia
• Oct. 7 - 34th Annual Vancouver Toy Run, Surrey, Coquitlam Center Mall, Chris at
604-580-1111, <[email protected]>
• Oct. 13 - Powersports Adventure Show, Abbotsford, 604-535-7584
• Oct. 14 - 26th Annual Central and Upper Fraser Valley Toy Run, Mission, Liquidation
World, 7178 Horne St.
• 2013 July 10-14 - Great Canadian Bike Rally, Merritt, B.C., PO Box 2749,
2064 Coutlee Ave., Merritt, BC V1K 1B8, 250-378-5553, <[email protected]>
Idaho
• Nov. 3 - ABATE of North Idaho 23rd Annual Toy Run, Coeur d’Alene, Lawrence’s
Motortcycles, 1704 N. Government Way, 208-691-5008, <[email protected]>
Montana
Joe and Nancy Dietz toasting the launch of a great tour at the Park Place Tavern in
Livingston, Mont., with “the best bartender in Montana,” Glen Godward, center. The
Dietzs used “Motorcycling Montana” tour guide to get the best from their tour.
• 2013 July 9-11 - 27th Annual Women on Wheels International Ride-In, Billings,
Billings Hotel and Convention Center, 1223 Mullowney Lane,
<[email protected]>
• 2013 July 19-21 - Beartooth Rally, Red Lodge, Bonedaddy, 406-446-2022
• 2013 July 25-28 - Evel Knievel Days, Butte, 406-491-6065, <www.eveldays.com>
Washington
• Oct. 28 - Halloween Swap Meet, Spokane, 509-294-1249, <[email protected]>
• Dec. 2 - Silverdale Toy Run, Silverdale, All Star Lanes, 10710 Silverdaler Way,
Marge Varner, 360-307-9736, <[email protected]>, <www.abate-wa.org/northkitsap>
• Dec. 16-18 - Progressive International Motorcycle Show, Washington State Convention
Center, Seattle, <www.motorcycleshows.com/seattle>
• 2013 March 15-17 - Inland Northwest Motorcycle Show, Spokane County Fair & Expo
Center, <www.spokanemotorcycleshow.com/>, 509-466-4256,
<[email protected]>
• 2013 April 20 - Monster Energy Supercross, Seattle, [email protected]
• 2013 May 24-26 - Touchet River Outdoor Roundup, Waitsburg Fairgrounds,
(clean and sober event), <[email protected]>
A stop along Lake Koocanusa.
Logan Pass. Traffic was stopped due to a few areas of
construction but it wasn’t as bad as we thought it would
be – perhaps the time of the year? We saw a bear cub
run out in front of us while we were stopped. A delightful
sight followed by fear: is the mother going to run out
next? A little too close for comfort but we didn’t see her.
Wyoming
• Oct. 7 - Casper H.O.G. Halloween party, Casper, Mills Town Hall, 307-267-4096
• Nov. 11 - Veterans Day Parade, Gillette, motorcycle club participation, 307-686-0377
To have your event listed here for free, send the information to Dani Rollison at
<[email protected]>. We only will list the days(s) and name of the event, the city and
location of the event, a contact person’s name, e-mail address, phone number or web address.
Opinion
Reflections on my first 12,000 miles
By Dottie Rankin
NRRider Wyoming
Correspondent
mistake I make, with every victory
I earn, I am learning something.
There is not a time I get on my bike
that I have not come away with a
lesson of some sort.
Each ride brings me a little
further out of my “box” and shows
me just how much I am capable
of. I truly feel that with everything
Was it really just a little over a
year ago, in June 2011, that my
motorcycle came into my life?
Hard to believe I have ridden
over 12,000 miles since that time,
learning many lessons.
I will never be the same.
While riding my bike, I am
uncaged and, at first, that felt
different. I was not a passive
observer; I was fully engaged with
the riding environment.
It is good to have the focus on
the act of traveling and not the
arrival. The travel bought me a lot
of thinking time and it’s amazing
where your mind goes when it is
set free.
For me however, it was more
than just miles on the odometer.
Those miles carried with them
lessons, growth in many areas, and
an emergence of self awareness.
Voila! Not perfect but I didn’t drop it.
It’s funny, at age 52 I just earned
my bachelors degree in business
I master on my motorcycle, my
management and I feel immense
confidence multiplies and spreads
pride in that. I learned a lot from
to other areas of my life. I get
the books I studied for my degree.
the chance to take a long look at
I spent many hours, indeed many
myself and my life, decide what
years, doing that.
needs changing, and now apply the
However I can honestly say
confidence and discipline required
I learned just as much from my
to do it.
motorcycle, “Glitter,” as
I did from college study.
I became book smart
at college; from Glitter I
became life smart and heart
smart.
My bike may have saved
my life. At the very least it
helped me to understand I
had it within me to do the
difficult things that needed
to be done. Glitter brought
me to a realization and
gave me the confidence
to put a horrific situation
behind me, to step out of
the victim role and to point
Construction? Exasperating but no big deal, right?
myself in the direction of a
bright future.
I spent many, many hours on
As I am learning to control my
my bike working through that
bike, I find I am also controlling my
whole sorry situation. I fully credit
fate.
the support of my husband and
I find that if there is a fear in
the magic a motorcycle can work
another area of my life, I can
on one’s psyche for pulling me
usually conquer it by applying what
through one of the most difficult
I have learned from riding.
times of my life. I don’t know
How do you conquer a fear
exactly what prompted my hubby to of heights and a fear of the new
take me out to the Harley Davidson and unknown? You ride Beartooth
dealer and say, “Pick out what
Highway in the freezing cold rain!
you want, Honey,” but I thank God
Yep, I got my “ass over the pass.” It
every day that he did.
was scary but exhilarating!
I have learned of the power
I wondered if I would ever get
bikes exert on one’s life, not just
the hang of this parking thing or
my life but most everyone who
be comfortable with it, but would
rides. I learned this when I wrote
that mean I was never going to
the story on my dad – his disease
park my bike? Nope, I accept I am
(Alzheimers) and his motorcycles.
“parking challenged” and I practice.
When he cannot remember family
I am getting better. I will master the
names I can reach him every time
skills.
by asking about his motorcycles.
I am dang sure not comfortable
These he remembers with clarity.
with road construction, especially
That is amazing.
when we get to the top of the
With every mile I ride, with every mountain and have to go through a
patch of loose dirt.
I didn’t stop my bike, give up
or ask for help. I concentrated
and carefully, successfully moved
through the blasted dirt. On the
other end, I had new confidence
and pride.
I find that when I get through
the gravel and dirt, when I park
successfully,
when I pull up
beside the gas
pump and not
ride into it, the
maneuvers may
not be pretty but I
did it and I didn’t
end up on the
ground with my
bike beside me.
That, in turn,
gives me the
same road three times trying to
find our next stop, when I almost
dump my bike turning around on
that crappy, narrow road, instead
of being tied in knots, I simply
don’t care because it’s a beautiful
day and the road we are lost on
is gorgeous. I can find pleasure in
this and I choose to regard it as a
learning experience.
Do I care that I have to paddlewalk my bike an hour to get
through Sturgis? Nope, it doesn’t
bother me a bit. We are there to
experience the experience! I am
doing what I want and I am on
my bike! If I look like a silly duck
astride a Harley in Sturgis, then I
look only as silly as thousands of
other riders. Like water off a duck’s
back, the self-consciousness
diminishes.
Motorcycling has
changed my life for
the better and for
good!
Another recent
change, perhaps of
similar magnitude,
is my new position
as a writer for
Northern Rockies
Rider. To be able to
write about riding
and the lessons I’m
learning is awesome.
Am I defining, or
re-defining, who I
really am? Maybe,
in addition to the
gasoline and motor
oil I’ve discovered
flowing through my
We got our asses over the pass! Top Of The
veins, there’s ink
World store on the east side of Beartooth.
running in them as
well.
confidence to tackle other
Motorcycles and writing...and
things that might scare
writing about motorcycling... I am
the bejeezers out of me. I eternally grateful.
now have the confidence
I have a goal: help other women
to at least try.
who might be stuck in whatever is
My bike, as silly as this their self-imposed comfort zone,
sounds, seems to have
to step out and discover what they
a sense of humor and
are capable of and maybe, just
often helps me to see
maybe, have a great deal of fun
the comedy in situations. I have
doing it!
learned to laugh at my deficiencies
How cool is that!
instead of shrinking inside myself
and berating myself for not being
worthy.
Take the dreaded parking
thing... It usually takes me twice
as long and twice as much space
to park my bike as it does others.
I am sure I look pretty silly doing
it but when I have accomplished
the feat and I look up and see the
people along the sidewalk across
the street giving me a thumbs up,
I simply shrug my shoulders, and
give them a thumbs up and big
smile in return. I did it...again!
When it takes me two trips
around the gas pump to get close
enough to get the hose in...well,
that makes me chuckle now and
usually those who are watching me
are smiling too.
When we can’t read the poker
run map and end up riding the
A biker tribute
to a ‘true lady’
Joanne Mangels, Polson, Mont., passed away
August 6, 2012 at home with her husband and two
sons at her side.
By Gil Mangels Owner and Currator
Miracle of America Museum
Polson, Mont.
I recently lost my wife of almost 48 years.
Joanne was somewhat older, but I took the Ronnie
McDowell country-western song, “Older Women Are
Beautiful Lovers,” to heart and brought her up to my
home country of Polson, Montana. Born in Glendale, Calif., and growing up near a
group of post-war bikers, her parents warned her that
if she went riding with any of them, it would jiggle
her insides and she wouldn’t be able to have babies
when she was married!
Fast forward to the mid-60s, and my interest in
old iron led me to a 1934 VLD Harley which I had
running in short order.
Joanne wanted to go riding with me and realized
by now that her parents had fibbed a little to protect
her.
I scrounged up a buddy seat and some original
footboard extensions and off we went.
Incidentally, Indian called the buddy seat a
“Chum-me seat,” and since Joanne was quite shapely,
it was indeed “chummy.” In fact, the backrubs she
administered from the pillion were heavenly.
A few years later, I added a sidecar to the VL, but
she always favored riding behind me.
I eventually found her a 1965 Harley 45-inch
dispatch Cycle Tow Servi-Car which was the first
year of the electric start and alternator. She enjoyed
The first photo was taken on our ‘54 FL in 1979 with our first grandson, Ned, who felt it was a comfortable
enough ride to nurse during the 25-mile ride. The next photo was taken in 2009 with Ned and his first child,
which makes this a four-generation shot.
riding from our home in Yellow Bay to Polson or
Kalispell, Mont.
The only trouble was the rear fenders stuck out
like the ones on the big
dually pickups and she
added a few more dents
to them from trees in our
yard.
Now, even though I
have collected and/or
restored over 50 vintage
motorcycles on display at
our Miracle of America
Museum (in Polson),
I’m not a “real biker”
any longer. With work
related injuries and my
age, I don’t feel balanceconfident on a bike, so I’m
adding a training wheel in
the form of a sidecar on
my latest large restoration
project, a 1941 Indian
Four. I think that will
make eight side-hack rigs
in the collection.
In the heart of the
Wind River Mountains
lies a scenic byway and
gateway to the Grand
Teton and Yellowstone
National Parks ~
A motorcyclist’s dream...
Cabins, Tent or RV Sites • Log Home • Wilderness Boundary Restaurant
Liquor Between the Peaks - Full Bar & Liquor Store
Fuel • Store • Showers • Laundromat • Discounts
Join us on the sunset deck or around a campfire, sharing a microbrew with friends!
Welcome to Yellowstone Country - No Itinerary - No Schedule No Regrets - Good Times at a Great Place!
Lava Mountain Lodge - Book your trip today!
800-919-9570
lavamountainlodge.com
57 miles from Jackson Hole and 18 miles from Dubois
Getting back to the tribute to Joanne, even though
I often felt I’d “caught a tiger by the tail,” she was
truly a “lady” and I will greatly miss her.
Boise to Salmon
remote and heavily
timbered, so wildlife is
surely present, though we
saw none.
It’s about 43 miles
from Boise to Idaho
City, population 425. On
this Saturday morning
the town was bustling
with recreationists
apparently out for an
early May weekend on
ATVs, camping and so
on. A number of bikes
were passing through or
parked in front of one of
the two restaurants.
It was warming up,
near 70 degrees, by midmorning. Marilyn and I
took a stretch break, shed
a few underlayers, had
a snack, gulped some
liquid, then remounted
and continued. Now
traffic thinned even more.
We were gaining
elevation steadily on our
way to snowy Mores
Creek Summit at 6,118
feet. The road kinks
were more radical, more
numerous and strung
closer to one another.
from page 1
boundary of the Craters of the Moon
National Monument. This is a dark,
hostile and fearsome country of ancient
lava flows and basalt rock. It looks like
you could wear out a pair of boots daily
trying to hike in this forbidding terrain.
There is a comprehensive interpretive
center/gift shop.
My bike, used but new to me, had
been freshly tuned with new plugs
and a throttle-body synchronization.
The engine simply purred and I was
pleased.
We stopped for the night in tiny
Fairfield along Hwy. 20, 84 miles out
of Boise and 340 miles into the day.
Fairfield, population 416, is the
county seat of – indeed the only town
in – Camas County, but it’s got a
good motel, The Prairie Inn, run by
folks who appreciate motorcycles
and riders. Rooms were, well, roomy,
clean, comfortable (ah, pillow-top
mattress!), had some amenities and
were economical.
Within walking distance are three
restaurants and a C-store. We chose
the Soldier Creek Brewing Company,
apparently popular with the locals,
where we enjoyed an excellent dinner
and, of course, some local suds.
We then savored an after-dinner
cocktail at the Cliff Bar and Grille,
clearly a well run establishment. One
of the female owners was handling the
plank and she made out-of-state patrons
feel exceptionally welcome.
Day II – the good
stuff begins
Riding
“The Pace”
reverted to flat sagebrush prairie as
Boise neared.
We fueled at Mountain home and
were pleased with 46 mpg, the result
of easy cruising at steady speeds the
entire day before. That mileage will
quickly drop below 40 when flogging
the machine on mountain twisties.
In our never ending quest to avoid
four-lane, we identified a frontage road
out of Mountain Home running along
the north side of I-84 and followed it
to a junction with Hwy. 21 near the
East Gowen Rd. I-84 interchange,
largely avoiding the Boise urban traffic
scramble.
However, if you need or desire city
amenities, Boise has it all, including a
full complement of bike shops. Boise is
the state capital and is one of the fastest
growing cities in the Northern Rockies
– 140,000 in 1990, 210,000 in 2011!
We seldom eat an early breakfast,
usually waiting until mid- or latemorning. However, we’d been advised
the local Fairfield senior citizens club
put on a weekly Saturday morning
pancake breakfast for $5.
We have taken advantage of these
kinds of functions before, and do so not
because the food excels (buffet) or the
price is low, but because these are good
opportunities to sit down for a meal at a
table shared with local residents.
Sue enough, we met a motherdaughter duo from the area who were
curious about touring motorcyclists
from Montana, and we were equally
curious about these Idahoans.
Interesting conversation with new
friends always enhances a meal.
This is what we came for
Fairfield won us over: good room,
Idaho Hwy. 21 so impressed us
good bed, good dinner, good saloon
when we rode it in 2010, a reprise of
and good breakfast with good folks.
that route was the destination for this
Small towns do it again!
three-day ride. Yes, the route is the
It’s just 84 miles further west along
Hwy. 20 to Mountain
Home, situated along
I-84, just 37 miles east of
Boise. That stretch of 20 is
straight and the roadway is
wide and modern. Traffic
was fairly light, especially
for Saturday morning when
most of rural Idaho could
be expected to head for the
“big city” for shopping and
whatnot.
The run from I-84 to Idaho City features plenty of
The roadway and
sweeping turns, nothing too technical, and is just
scenery became fairly
right for getting into the groove.
interesting around Little
Camas Reservoir – big, rolling and
destination.
rugged hills – before the landscape
Sailing away from I-84, a rider
flanks the Arrowrock Dam reservoir,
which fills a picturesque canyon for the
first few miles. The pavement is fine
and curves are numerous sweepers of
quality engineering. Traffic diminishes
quickly as you gain elevation, next
running along Grimes Creek.
It’s tempting to ratchet up the pace
as you proceed northeast along what is
the Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway. It’s
just curve after curve through exquisite
landscapes. The country is rugged,
We stopped at Idaho City for a stretch
and refreshments. Others riders were
out on this gorgeous mid-May Saturday.
The intensity and
adrenalin reached a new
pitch as we practiced
riding “The Pace” – using engine and
gears to control speed and thereby
avoiding use of the brakes, gauging
accurately the optimal corner entry
speed, tipping it in late from the outside
of the turn with a slightly open throttle,
using your lane to carve down to, then
brush, the turn apex, then gradually
applying more power to help stand
the bike up at the turn exit as you ease
off on steering force, already looking
ahead to the next turn entry.
Carry good speed in, carry it
through and exit with no need to
power out hard. It’s all about smooth
and is the style of mountain riding we
have adopted, and so have our riding
companions, even if not consciously.
On a good day, with skilled riders, you
may seldom see a brake light come on,
even in the most technical twisties.
Hwy. 21 from Idaho City to Mores
Cruise in to
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the pass, things mellow a bit, then
really pick up! Very twisty; not real
smooth but not bad. All 40-50 mph.
from page 10 Challenging but not real technical,
Pass and down the other side to
mostly good constant-radius turns with
Lowman is one of the best stretches
proper banking, lots of traction...”
At the front, I
was running an old
Michelin PR that
needed replacing,
so I wasn’t
surprised when a
couple of times
I felt the front
squirm slightly, a
clear signal to ease
back.
But I was
enjoying the feel
the nearly new
Michelin PR III
was sending from
the rear: nothing
but confidence.
Sign at Idaho City graphically depicts this great route.
The soft and sticky
edges showed
of mountain riding on which to work
some signs of having been thoroughly
on the techniques of The Pace, even
scrubbed but I didn’t see the typical
“paddle wheel” effect
developing along the drive
edges of the tread sipes.
My notes say: “Not
much for chicken strips,
maybe an eighth-inch on
the right, a little more on
the left.
“The run from Mores
down to Lowman... Wow!
Worked up a sweat. We
stopped at the Southfork
Lodge (closed and for sale
Some corners were marked down to 25 mph. We
at
the time) and I stripped
were able to push that a bit, but had to be wary of
off more top layers and the
surprises.
though the pavement of the ascent is
fairly rough, and has deteriorated since
we rode it in 2010.
The fact is, we spent all of Friday
riding 340 miles of fairly boring,
though pleasant, miles of open
country to get to this enchanted piece
of mountain motorcycling. It was
absolutely worth it!
The roadway twists and bends
this way and that up the ascent to the
pass. At the top you may wonder if
motorcycling can get any better ... Then
you start down the descent to Lowman
and the answer is revealed: Yes! It gets
course of the
South Fork
of the Payette
River through
a fantastic
mountain canyon.
Traffic was
fairly light for
a gorgeous
Saturday
afternoon in midMay. What a find!
There was
one curiosity: the
highway had a
posted speed limit
of 40 mph, which
seemed ridiculous
Any rider could understand why we were carried away with
as this one could
the fun factor ... when we met the deputy.
easily be run at 60
to 70 mph, with
wool socks. Very pretty; very dramatic
appropriate speed
scenery – a 9.8.”
reductions in the tighter turns. We were
At Lowman we talked to some local comfortable running at 55 to 60...
riders who said they were headed to
Banks, Idaho, and said the road there
...except for the deputy
was first-rate but to watch for wildlife,
...Until we met a sheriff’s deputy.
and away they roared.
I glanced at the speedo and saw the
A perfect specimen...
It was only early afternoon and we’d
booked a cabin in Stanley, just 60 miles
further, so had an opportunity to sample
that new-to-us route from Lowman to
Banks, 33 miles of Hwy. 17, known as
the Wildlife Canyon Scenic Byway.
Whoa! Talk about a perfect
specimen of motorcycle highway!
This has a high-friction chip seal
on a smooth asphalt mat, modern
engineering with well banked,
constant-radius turns, and there are
dozens of them as you follow the
needle pointing at 60. Uh oh. He lit up
even before he went past, executed a
quick U-turn and pulled aggressively
into the turnout where we had already
parked.
The door flew open and he strode
toward us with menacing purpose.
Some highlights of the 10-minute
ass-chewing: “You know what the
speed limit is here? You know how
fast you were going? I cleaned up 24
accidents on this highway last year and
13 of them were fatalities! I’m tough
on motorcyclists; I never let them go...”
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It doesn’t get much better than
the descent from Mores Summit to
Lowman. We worked up a sweat
throwing the big ST into the turns while
dealing with a steep downhill grade.
better!
I’ll quote from my notes: “Very nice
heading up to Mores Creek Summit.
Some snow. Pavement more beat up
than I remember from 2010. After
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Boise to Salmon
mind this “inconvenience.” Besides,
the cabins had DVD players and
monitors and the ranch office had an
excellent library. We needed no more in
the way of entertainment since we had
our books and were bushed so would
hit the rack early anyway.
We asked about restaurants and
from page 11
I was figuring my indiscretion was
going to cost me about $200 to $250
plus plenty of MVR points.
During the lecture, I asked if I could
remove my helmet and he nodded.
Once he got a look at my thoroughly
gray hair and wrinkles, he at least knew
I wasn’t some punk squid. Marilyn,
too, removed her lid, which may have
helped, though she doesn’t look her
age.
He seemed to calm down a little,
and more so when I apologized. He
seemed to appreciate that we were fully
geared and aboard a (sport) touring rig
with full fairing, big windscreen, hard
side cases and top box.
He asked if this was our first time
on this route, and we acknowledged it
was. I told him it was so perfect that we
had gotten carried away with the fun
factor (more apology).
He paused for a long moment, then
advised we would receive a very rare
warning, told us to watch it, then said
goodbye.
Whew! Dodged that bullet, and
we did thereafter pay close attention
to the speed. Good thing because as
we later back-tracked to Lowman, we
met the deputy again. A quick glance
at the speedometer assured we had no
problem and I offered a friendly wave.
With higher speed limits, the
Wildlife Canyon Scenic Byway could
be one of Idaho’s premier pieces of
sport-bike roadway, but it’s clear public
policy is against that notion. Too bad
but, as usual, safety trumps motorcycle
fun.
We didn’t go quite all the way
to Banks, but found a comfortable
saloon, The Dirty Shame, up toward
Crouch where we got some eats and
drinks, then backtracked. My final
notes on that segment state, “Goddamn
pretty country! Maybe the best pure
motorcycle route in Idaho. But ...
cops!”
Along the Salmon River
This cow elk was all alone midday,
probably getting ready to calve. The
highway was not the place to do it.
mountainous with heavy timber. We
braked for a confused cow elk that
wasn’t happy with our intrusion.
A rider climbs almost 3,700 feet
from Lowman to Banner Summit at
7,056 where speeds are posted down
to 50 mph. There was yet perhaps
three feet of winter’s snow remaining
at roadside. Traffic May 12 was
exceptionally light with few other bikes
and only the occasional car or pickup.
Altogether an exceptionally pleasant
ride ... excepting the bee that worked
into the edge of my helmet, then stung
me on the left temple. Just a half hour
At our comfortable and cozy Triangle C
cabin.
there were three within walking
distance, several more within a mile
or two in “Lower Stanley” along the
Salmon River. Perhaps most touring
riders are like us: Once parked,
unloaded and in comfortable lounging
clothes, we disdain getting back on the
bike.
We opted
for the Kasino
Club in the
“downtown”
of Old Stanley.
The place
had loads of
character and
the staff was
professional
and friendly.
Once seated,
the owner
himself
appeared,
introduced
himself and
engaged in a
Author takes a break while taking in the view of the magnificent
snappy
repartee.
Sawtooth Range.
He also
made a
The day’s final leg
from our destination, I popped a dose
fortunate recommendation for the
of Clariton antihistamine to keep the
Back at Lowman, we started
grilled salmon which Marilyn ordered
swelling and itching down.
the final leg to Stanley. This is also
and said she thoroughly enjoyed. As
Past the summit, the valley
for me, I was suffering from a nagging
opens up into alpine sagebrush
stomach upset that had dogged me most
prairies with the magnificent
of the day (senior citizens buffet?). I
Sawtooth Range defining the
horizon, the peaks soaring to
within 11,000 feet and glistening
with last winter’s immaculate
snow.
Here Hwy. 21 unwinds and
mellows while traffic remains thin.
It is perfect alpine cruising with
the Sawtooths ahead and to your
left, then behind as you drop down
into Stanley in the Salmon River
The Dirty Shame near Garden Valley was a
Valley.
good place to grab some eats and drinks.
What a day of riding!
excellent mountain riding, all sweeping
turns with decent pavement under the
tires, yet not as gnarly as the stretch
from Mores Summit down to Lowman;
much more relaxing but still with a
serious fun quotient.
Here Hwy. 21 bisects the southern
end of the Frank Church River Of No
Return Wilderness and the northern
edge of the Sawtooth Wilderness,
so you can imagine the quality of
the country: remote and ruggedly
ordered the salad bar, which was fresh,
diverse, plentiful and delicious.
After a good night’s sleep in our
quiet little cabin, we got an early
7:30 a.m. jump on the traffic and hot
weather, hitting Hwy. 75 out of Stanley
north to Challis. First we had to remove
a heavy frost from the bike.
Good eats, good bed
The only thing, now, that could
improve it was good lodging, a couple
of after-ride cocktails and a good
restaurant.
Or logistician (Marilyn) had done
her homework and found us a cozy and
comfortable cabin at the Triangle C
Ranch on the west side of Stanley. We
parked the bike directly in front.
Some would bellyache about no
television available but we seldom
When we rode this stretch of Hwy.
75, and then Hwy. 93, back in 2010, it
was an early-August Sunday and the
middle of the afternoon. We spent too
much time riding in 100-degree heat
at 40 mph behind stacked up motor
homes, cars and trucks, none of which
had ever seen a turn-out they liked.
Conversely, our early departure May
13 meant we had a superb run along the
twists and turns of the Salmon River
with almost no competing traffic. Just
terrific!
If Hwy. 75 is ridden in good weather
off-season, and off the peak traffic
times, it can yield a couple of hours of
the best riding Idaho has to offer: long
stretches of well radiused and banked
turns stitched together by the dozens;
generally acceptable surface, if narrow
in some segments; stunning Salmon
Valley scenery ... This route has it
all, but timing is the apparent key to
maximizing fun.
Hwy. 75 is simply awesome right
out of Stanley and stays that way
until about halfway to Challis, where
the turns become slightly fewer and
slightly more open; still exceptional.
Oh yeah, and watch for rocks. We
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Perhaps a thick coating of morning frost
is to be expected at an elevation of
6,253 feet in Stanley, Idaho in mid-May.
MSUN ARC Ad.indd 1
MSUN ARC Ad.indd 1
7/28/11 9:20 AM
Boise to Salmon
from page 11
hit one between Challis and Stanley in
2006 and later spent $800 straightening
two bent wheels. But we miraculously
came away without deflated tires,
injury or worse.
Challis is 58 miles northeast of
Stanley and offers the touring rider
dead beautiful scenic canyons ... just hit
it when the traffic will be light.
The roadway and river move in
tandem along the bottom of the valley
and canyons. The river and road really
start to squirm about 20 miles out of
Challis and continue that way until just
a few miles south of Salmon.
Salmon is the upper valley’s
commercial anchor and the homeland
of the Shoshone Indians. The Corps of
The fun continues along Hwy. 75 between Stanley and Challis along the Salmon
River.
whatever they need with the exception
of motorcycle repair shops, which can
be found 60 miles further in Salmon.
This Sunday morning Marilyn
and I hit the Village Inn restaurant
apparently about the same time as the
church crowd. They were slammed but
we got a table and the hustling staff
soon had us well fed. The restaurant is
part of an enterprise that also features
a substantial motel next door, which
we noted for its potential as a future
lodging.
We have stopped in Challis, too, for
mid-day beverages and found several
good watering holes up on the old main
street.
Picking up
Hwy. 93 at Challis
Out of Challis, the first rate riding
resumes immediately as Hwy. 93 keeps
delivering the fun and thrills: generally
good, high-friction surface, constantradius turns with proper banking, drop-
Discovery passed through here in 1805
on their way to the Pacific Ocean. It is
mining, timber and ranching country.
fishing, hunting, horseback riding,
cross-country and down-hill skiing
and snowmobiling, not to mention
exceptional motorcycling. We have
done some ADV riding on the
numerous and quality gravel routes in
the area.
With 3,300 residents, the
community boast a half-dozen motels
(we have stayed at two, both quite
comfortable and economical) and a
dozen restaurants. We like sampling
local suds so have enjoyed good brews
and meals on several occasions at the
local brew pub, Bertram’s.
There is a Honda/Yamaha dealer
and a couple of independent shops.
We stayed on Hwy. 93 the next 46
miles to the Idaho-Montana border
at Lost Trail Pass in the Bitterroot
Mountains. It continues to run along
the Salmon River for perhaps 18 miles
so scenery is splendid.
Another tiny community, North
Fork, sits where the North Fork of the
Salmon River, flowing down from
7,014-foot Lost Trail Pass, empties into
the main Salmon. Hwy. 93 follows the
north fork to the summit.
The five- or six-mile ascent to Lost
Trail features a string of good corners,
some posted down to 25 mph. This has
been rebuilt in the last decade so the
turns are well engineered and properly
banked. The surface has been in good
condition.
Expect to see plenty of bikes on
Hwy. 93, especially the stretch between
the pass and Salmon. It is a favorite
with day-riders out of Montana and in
the northern Idaho Panhandle.
Mont.
As a three-day ride, this one is hard
to beat. Sure, we spent the first day
riding straight, flat highways to get to
the really good stuff; actually superb
stuff.
Hwy. 21 north out of Boise to
Stanley is one of America’s best – a 9.8
by our personal standards – and Hwy.
75 from Stanley to Challis is no yawner
either, earning at least a 9.5!
While Hwy. 93 from Challis to the
Montana line can be plugged with
heavy traffic, hit it at the right time on
the right day, and it is almost as good
as Hwys. 21 and 75. On this mid-May
Sunday, traffic was relatively light and
we had a ball, worthy of a 9.0 rating.
Try them, and rate them, for
yourself. We’re betting you’ll agree.
Ahhhh, back
into Montana
When we
reached the summit
that late Sunday
afternoon, we took
a break at a rest area
there, then headed
east into Montana
on Hwy. 43 which
dropped us into
the Big Hole River
Valley. The town of
Wisdom, population
112, lies 24 miles
east of the border,
Other riders were taking a break at Lost Trail Pass at the
then
little Wise
Idaho-Montana border.
River, Dewey and
Tourism and recreation are powerful Divide where you pick up I-15 and the
three-day loop is closed. From there
economic engines as well. There are
it’s just 24 miles to our home in Butte,
opportunities for whitewater rafting,
• Butte
• Dillon
• Shelby
• Great Falls
• Hamilton
• Havre
Helena
(US & CAN)
• Big Timber
• Columbus
• Conrad
Miles City
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Montana guy finds Himalayas make the Beartooths seem like molehills
How high can you ride? 18,380 feet!
Story and photos by David Fletcher for Northern Rockies Rider
From Leh we board our Royal
Enfields and head northwest to where
the land of Ladakh borders Pakistan.
I find I’m at a disadvantage to my
British companions in that I’ve never
ridden a Royal Enfield.
The foot brake is on the left and the
gear shifter on the right. Shifting is just
the opposite of what I’m used to: I must
For the first two hours out of Leh the
traffic is unreal and I’m quickly forced
to master the art of passing on the righthand side.
In front of me is a transport truck
spewing out a black plume of spent
diesel and taking up 99 percent of the
road. My horn becomes my friend as I
make my first pass.
There is
definitely a
pucker factor
here. I glance
over the
embankment
and see the
Indus River far
below; there is
no guard rail.
I give the bike
We stop for the night at Lamayuru
and sleep in the 1,000-year-old
monastery situated high on a cliff. I
sleep well.
t’s hard to imagine anything
From Lamayuru we ride to Kargil,
better than being on a Royal
fuel up and head southward toward
Enfield 500 Bullet, the
Rangdum. We wind our way over the
Sherman tank of motorcycles,
Fotu La Pass at 13,479 feet.
riding the highest motorable road
The Nun-Kun mountains rise 23,000
on earth.
feet around us as we ascend into the
Yes, we’re talking
Suru Valley. There are glaciers on both
about the Himalaya
sides of the road. We camp in tents at
Mountains in northern
Rangdom. It’s cold that night and I put
India!
on my long johns and am glad for a
The trip is taxing, the
warm sleeping bag.
roads a mixed bag of
From Rangdom we take again to the
good, bad and ugly. The
unpaved
roads toward Padum. There
days are long and often
is little or no traffic and I feel as if I’m
quite scary, especially
alone in a lost world.
since you‘re riding on
We climb to 14,450 feet and ride
the “other” side of the
by the Nun-Kun
road.
glacier, then
But if you want a
descend into the
challenge, unequalled
Zanskar Valley
scenery and a chance
where we pass
to ride the two highest
The 1,000 year old Buddhist monastery at Lamayuru.
through multiple
passes in the world, then
shift
down
to
go
from
first,
second,
third
small villages,
this trip is for you.
and on through to fourth with neutral
cross glacier-fed
For me, the journey begins in Butte,
between every gear.
streams, and then
Mont. It went like this:
The clutch is a friction clutch which
I see my first yak
I fly from Butte to Newark, N.J., then
overheats if you slip it. This I find
feeding in the
direct to Delhi, India, a total time of
out 30 minutes out of Leh. Once it
fields.
36 hours. I’m beat, but pumped up and
overheats you can’t shift gears until it
By day’s end we
can’t believe I’m actually here.
“Child monks” admire our riding hardware. These are children
cools. I’m embarrassed as my British
reach Padum, the
Delhi is hot, dirty, humid, noisy and
of the most destitute parents who “give them up” to a
friends must wait.
unbelievably overcrowded. But there
monastery where they perform work but are trained as monks. capital of Zanskar.
That evening, I mention I’m from
It’s an ancient
are motorcycles everywhere! They ride
Butte,
Montana,
the
hometown
of
Evel
plenty
of
throttle
and
pump
the
horn
village
with
Tibetan-style
houses where
two-up and dart in and out of traffic like
Knievel. When they hear I’m from
repeatedly and take off as the adrenaline yaks are housed at ground level, the
a swarm of bees on a mission.
Evel’s hometown, all is forgiven. From
begins to flow.
family on the second floor and the roof
I stay in Delhi for a day to shake off
now on they call me “Montana.”
I smile when I make it, not bad for an piled high with hay to feed the yaks
the jet lag. From Delhi I fly to the city
Riding in India is a thrill. Not only
American.
through winter.
of Leh in the northern Indian region
is traffic headed your way and on the
We travel on through ancient
Just outside of Padum, the Karsha
known as Ladakh. Ladakh means “land
“wrong” side of the road, but road ethics Buddhist villages, pass by monasteries,
monastery clings to the mountain side.
of high passes.”
are a mere theory.
amazing rock formations of every color
The next day I explore the monastery,
In Leh I meet up with my “mates,”
I learn quickly to be aggressive. The
imaginable, mountains peaked in snow
climb to the top and watch the sun cast
five folks from Great Britain who I will
and crop fields fed by glacial runoff.
shadows across the vast valley below.
be touring with. I’m the only American. use of the bike’s horn here is a way of
life,
literally.
In
fact
it
is
expected
to
We
stop
for
tea.
The
English
love
There is only one road into and out
Leh is set at 12,000 feet. The culture
be used when overtaking a vehicle and
their tea. I acquire the taste too, but
of Zanskar so we must backtrack before
is principally Tibetan Buddhist. We
is life and death when entering a blind
the stop also gives me a chance to take
venturing off to the Nubra Valley in
spend a day taking it easy, adapting to
corner on a narrow dirt road.
pictures.
northern Ladakh.
the altitude.
By David Fletcher
For Northern Rockies Rider
time a new
The scenery stuns every
vista comes into view.
Taking a rest at the
Nun-Kun glacier.
Pangong Lake.
This is the part of the trip
This region of Ladakh is the
I came for – the Khardungconnecting point between Central Asia
La Pass, the world’s highest
and South Asia. The valley is where the
motorable road at 18,380 feet. Silk Road passed through and is one of
It’s nothing but
endless twisties
all the way up.
The summit
is draped with
Buddhist prayer
flags, it’s cold,
there’s snow on
the ground, but
I’m here and
that’s all that
matters. This
place is another
bucket list item. I
say, “check” and
grin proudly. We
rest and have tea. At the summit of Khardung-La pass.
What a treat.
On the way down I drop my bike on
the last remaining sites of the Bactrain
a downhill curve to the left. I take the
(two-humped and shaggy) camel that
curve too high and get caught up in the
make the sand dunes near Hundar their
loose sand atop the curve and before I
home.
know it I’m laying face down.
Three of us venture
It’s here that I truly feel the altitude
off for a look. We end
as I struggle to right the bike at 18,000
up taking a camel
feet. I look the bike over and see that I
ride across the dunes.
put a good ding in the gas tank, but am
When the rest of
thankful for my protective gear. I’m up
the group finds out,
and off again, but my heart is calling
they’re jealous.
out for more oxygen.
From Hundar
Mountains that abut the shoreline, it
seems otherworldly.
Again, we camp at the end of the
road. We wouldn’t want it to be any
other way.
Beyond us is
China. Pangong
Lake is another
bucket list item
– “checked.”
From Pangong
Tso we’re off
to our last stop
before returning
to Leh. We’re
headed for
Tiksey, but first
we must climb
the second
highest pass,
Chang La at
17,586 feet.
Again there is snow and it’s cold, but
this time I’m really pooped and after
14 days on the road I’m beginning to
feel it. My clutch hand is killing me,
AFGHANISTAN
GILGIT
Gilgit
Tribal
Territory
Chilas
CHILAS
PAKISTAN
MUZAFFARABAD
Muzaffarabad
MIRPUR
Mirpur
ladakh
Kashmir
north
Baramula
PUNCH
Punch
Gilgit
AVAZARA
Srina Gar
CHINA
TIBET
my shoulders ache and I’ve lost weight,
almost 15 pounds. The high altitude will
do that to you. Your body consumes
muscle.
From Chang La we descend to the
Manali-Leh highway to Tiksey and
from Tiksey back to Leh.
The trip is over and I’m exhausted
after logging over 1,000 miles on the
grandest of motorcycles.
I reflect on dining from vendors on
the street and smile when I recall the
time our mechanic had to kill and cook
a chicken so we could eat supper one
night. I didn’t once think of Starbucks.
Then I reflect I’m glad I didn’t go
alone. There are several companies out
there that offer tours of the Himalayas
with varying degrees of back-up. I was
fortunate to have picked one with many
years of experience and with good
medical and mechanical support.
One could certainly hire a bike, but
most renters provide dubious machines
with very little back-up.
I went with Blazing Trails Tours
out of the UK which specializes in
small groups with top notch support.
I guarantee you’ll develop lasting
friendships the first day on the road.
This trip was a hoot.
And my bucket list grows shorter.
Dave Fletcher lives in Butte, Mont.,
with his wife Pam. He’s a 61-yearold retiree who can finally enjoy
motorcycling whenever the urge strikes.
He’s ridden on and off since 1970, but
his riding time was severely limited
for 23 years while living in Ketchikan,
Alaska, where there are only 20 miles
of accessible road on the island.
Since moving to Montana in 2007, his
motorcycle horizons have certainly
expanded. During his trip to the
Himalayas he lost 15 lbs. Since then,
he’s been trying to fatten himself up for
another adventure, hopefully, he says, a
motorcycle tour of Cuba.
Leh
Anantnag
RIASI
Riasi
UDHAMPUR
Udhampur
Jammu
JAMMU
KATHUA
Kathua
HIMACHAL PRADESH
PUNJA B
This part of Ladakh is very isolated.
There is almost no traffic and soon the
road yields a view of the Nubra Valley.
The view is indescribable and beyond
my imagination.
The land boarders both China and
Pakistan. We’re headed for Hundar, the
furthest accessible village where we tent
on the grounds of a disused monastery.
we head out on a rough but dramatic
mountain road to Pangong Tso in the
Changtang Valley. If these places sound
Chinese, you’re right.
We tent at Pangong Lake. The lake
is endorheic in that it retains water and
allows no outflow, so it’s salty. The lake
is incredibly blue and, combined with
the high altitude light and the Karakora
Map cartography by Jim McNamara
Royal Enfield 500
By David Fletcher
If you’re used to a sport bike or
sport-tourer, riding a Royal Enfield
500 is like ditching a racehorse for a
donkey.
Yet, the built-in-India motorcycling
anachronism does work.
Long and low, with a heavy
flywheel, well-chosen springs and
usefully wide bars, it unrelentingly
keeps going over rocky banks, river
crossings, deep sand or wet mud.
So what if there is a neutral
between each of the four gears
and that the clutch overheats if you
try slipping it? The Bullet is still the
“Sherman Tank” of motorcycles of the
Himalayas.
Although now made in India, these
bikes are of the same basic design
as the Royal Enfield manufactured
in Britain back in the 1950s and,
although small improvements have
been made over the decades,
they retain the classic British bike
character and charm.
Producing around 18 bhp, these
bikes are no rocket ships. Power
and admire your bike’s classic styling
while you wait.
delivery is “friendly” and very
manageable with peak torque being
The fun factor in the Royal
Enfield is that it provides the vintage
made at low revs. This makes the
Enfield Bullet ideal for relaxed touring riding experience without many of
in “cruise mode.”
the difficulties and inconveniences
that come with riding a truly old
Bullets are also very tough (a
necessary trait on the back roads we
motorcycle.
The single front disc and rear
all like to travel), comfortable and,
drum brakes are modest, and
with a low centre of gravity, are very
are assisted
easy to
significantly
handle.
by engine
Instead
compression
of a choke,
braking.
the Enfield
Obviously,
has a
smooth is the
handlebarway to go, rather
mounted
high-idle
than cut-andthrust. Riding a
lever to
The Royal Enfield 500 Bullet, with a longRoyal Enfield is
invoke
stroke cylinder and a heavy flywheel will
about enjoying
when the
thump along smoothly all day at low revs.
the details of the
motor is
process of riding,
cold. When
and watching your environment pass
cold, the Bullet can be reluctant to
you by at an easily observable pace.
start, so be sure to keep the battery
charged between rides. Once fired
Royal Enfield has designed the
up, warm-up is casual and very carb- Bullet to be durable and resistant
to damage. It has to be, of course.
like. Be patient. The Enfield is not
a bike for those in a hurry. Sit back
Riding in its home country of India
can be a challenging prospect since
the roads are often in poor condition,
and many people overload their
bikes, operating them as ad hoc
trucks.
One of the most eye-opening
aspects of the Bullet is its confidenceinspiring willingness to tool down a
dirt road, even one with no shortage
of potholes and ruts.
If you are patient, you can ride this
bike on roads you associate with pure
adventure bikes, simply due to its
maneuverability, light weight and low
seat height.
The Enfield has an updated motor
and reflects quasi-contemporary
quality and reliability standards,
without sacrificing the bike’s essential
retro/vintage appearance and appeal.
In its niche, it’s perfect!
These classic motorcycles can
be purchased in the United States;
the Royal Enfield USA web site is
<http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.
com/>. The nearest dealership for the
Rocky Mountain region is located in
Spokane, Wash.
Take the bike out for a spin. You’ll
be impressed.
Booking a foreign tour
Lessons Learned From Motorcycling Overseas
By David Fletcher
Booking
If you are going with a tour, booking can usually
be done online and will require a deposit. Payment
can be made by card, check, or bank transfer.
Once you decide on a tour I suggest you book your
flight as soon as possible. I booked my flight six
months in advance and saved over $800 on air fair.
Possible visa requirements
Check this out for your destination country well
in advance of travel. To visit India you will need
a passport containing a valid tourist visa. Your
passport should have at least six months of validity
remaining at time of application. Visas are obtained
from the VFS Global (the official agent of the Indian
High Commission).
I obtained my VISA out of San Francisco. All the
forms were available on-line. The process went
pretty smoothly. A tourist visa is usually valid for six
months from date of issue. VISA applications often ask for two in-country
addresses. If you are going with a tour, they can
supply you with the addresses you need. If you are
going solo, find a couple of hotels in the area online and use their address.
Other paperwork you may need
Most countries require an International Driving
Permit. I got mine at AAA for $10. The paperwork
was painless.
Changing money
I suggest that you have some idea of the
exchange rate before you leave, to avoid getting
ripped-off at airports. The site <http://www.xe.com/
ucc/> should help.
In many major towns, there are cash-points that
Blazing
Trials
Tours
will accept major credit and debit cards. Money is
often easily changed at banks and agencies and
can be withdrawn from cash-points close to most
hotels. Electricity
It can’t be guaranteed. In some places there’s
no power; power failures are possible anywhere,
anytime. Don’t forget a travel adaptor if you need
to recharge your electrical devices or see that they
are battery operated.
The riding experience
I recommend at least two years’ recent riding
experience. The main criterion, however, is
confidence. If you’re happy to zip through Seattle
rush hour, then you’ll be capable of dealing with
road life in India or most underdeveloped counties.
It can be dangerous
Riding anywhere carries with it a degree of risk,
and riding in India is certainly no exception.
Surfaces can vary from perfectly smooth tarmac
to rubble, dust and sand. Potholes are to be
expected on most back roads. Animals, hawkers
and bicyclists wander everywhere with varying
levels of awareness and stability. Expect the
unexpected at all times.
There is nothing so formal as a highway code
and little by way of driver training (“buying” a
license is relatively easy), but after some time you
will start to recognize a system. This can roughly
be equated to “big-man-hits-boy-hits-dog.” Size
matters.
Unless there happens to be an army tank
in the vicinity, trucks have right of way in all
circumstances, then buses, smaller trucks etc. You
will fit in just above a bicycle, but below a threewheeler.
Passenger-carrying vehicles will stop in the
Blazing Trails have been running India tours since
1999. Founder Suzie Lumsden was joined in 2006
by Damon I’Anson, a former road test editor for Bike
magazine.
The husband-and-wife team, based in the Himalayan
foothills, takes riders to places they thought they could
never go. Damon and Suzie have local knowledge and
problem-solving ability which is truly impressive.
middle of the road to deposit tired travelers, autorickshaws will swerve madly into your path and
dogs will attempt to end their miserable lives under
your tires. Rarely will any driver maneuver be
indicated.
As each day passes your road awareness will
go up dramatically. Luggage
I took too much on my India trip and actually
used about half of what I brought. I suggest
you pack as lightly and in as compact a form as
possible. Some tours offer a support vehicle for
luggage, but don’t count on it. Bring soft luggage at
all costs.
Include any medications and don’t forget to
contact your local health department regarding
immunization recommendations for your country of
travel. Protective gear
Please read the “It can be dangerous” section
once again. Yes, most definitely include your best
safety gear. Bring a full-face helmet and ridingspecific gloves, boots, jacket and pants. The
probability of a crash is high.
Don’t forget to protect your passport and money.
Purchase some type of money belt and wear it.
Do some upfront research
Read all you can about the country before you
travel.
The more familiar you are with the geography,
climate, population, religion(s), social structure,
history, communication, money and wildlife, etc.,
the more mentally prepared you’ll be.
In doing so, you’ll get the very best from your
trip and find a deeper flavor for the country and its
people.
Equally important, the company is properly insured
and bonded, and carries a support truck, a mechanic
and a qualified medic on each tour.
The way they work to keep the tour going despite
landslides, broken bikes and often tricky military
outposts is outstanding.
Check them out at <http://www.blazingtrailstours.
com>.
Tech Talk
For the unfortunate: the winter layup routine
By Cole Boehler
When I was fairly new to
motorcycling, I researched the proper
four-to-six-month winter layup drill
and faithfully executed all the steps.
Since then I’ve developed an
abbreviated, less labor-intensive
version that I think works well enough
for me and my local conditions.
First, decide where you’ll store it.
If you’re married, the bedroom is
probably out of the question, but the
basement may be available (provided
you have practical access). It should be
put out of harm’s way where it won’t
get damaged by activity taking place
near it.
Keep it away from windows as ultra
violet light can fade paint. The area
needs to be dry and, if possible, warm.
A rodent-proof spot (the little mousies
love to nest in the air box and may
chew wiring) would be nice, too. We’re
told mothballs will discourage critters.
Give the thing an
(annual?) cleaning
Depending upon where you live, the
riding environment – particularly salt –
can be prevalent and corrosive to your
machine’s finishes.
If you ride gravel, you may
encounter surfaces treated with dust
control chemicals such as calcium
chloride. Any chemical with chlorides
will be highly corrosive.
Everyday road grime can contain
residual winter ice-melt chemicals
and salts which are chlorides,
again – sodium chloride (table salt),
calcium chloride, potassium chloride,
magnesium chloride – as well as
combustion byproducts of gasoline and
diesel fuel.
Some bug splatter is also acidic and
can work its way into paint clear-coats,
permanently marring them.
Paints, chrome, aluminum and
other metal surfaces are all subject to
oxidation and corrosion which will
spoil that sparkle pronto.
boil all the water out of the crevices.
Then apply a good coating of
wax to all painted surfaces and most
metal ones. There are sprays meant to
preserve rubber and vinyl so consider
coating cables, lines and seats.
This step helps keep moisture away
from materials that may otherwise
deteriorate.
Condensation is a problem more
significant in some regions than others,
but it means you may wind up with
moisture in your fuel tank, engine
crankcase or exhaust system. This
implies rust and corrosion in places
where you definitely do not want it.
Protect your fuel system
To protect your gas tank, top it
right to the filler neck after adding a
fuel stabalizer/fuel system conditioner.
Opinions vary, but I have had good
luck with Sta-Bil and am now using
Sea Foam in this application.
It is usually recommended that the
engine be run long enough afterward to
draw treated fuel into and throughout
the fueling system.
If your bike is carbureted, consider
draining the float bowls. Old and
evaporated gasoline leaves gummy
residue and varnishes that will clog tiny
fuel passages. Your bike may not want
to start, idle or run in the spring if you
leave untreated fuel in the carbs. Floats
could stick, too.
On the other hand, some say treated
fuel left in the carbs will keep seals
and gaskets from drying out. It’s your
decision.
Personally, I run treated fuel through
my fuel injection system and let it go
at that, and have not suffered spring
starting or running trouble.
If your classic has a fuel petcock,
make sure it functions (pull fuel lines
to check), then make sure the fuel
supply is turned off. You don’t want to
contemplate the cylinders or crankcase
full of gasoline in the spring due to fuel
leaking all winter.
If your ride is chain driven,
thoroughly clean the chain and heavily
lubricate it, but remember
to wipe away excess lube
before the spring ride.
Change the
fluids
Hydraulic brake and
clutch fluids attract water
and thus contaminated
or old fluids can cause
corrosion within the
system, especially in
the master and slave
cylinders and pistons, as
After a good soap and water bath and a thorough
well is in brake caliper
drying, apply some wax to protect paint and other
parts. Winter layup is
surfaces.
a good time to change
brake and clutch hydraulic fluids.
The point is, you do not want last
If your engine is water-cooled
summer’s gunk working on your bike’s
finish all winter. And who would want it and coolant hasn’t been changed for
a couple of years, do it now. And
there in the spring? Give it a good oldmake darned sure it is at the proper
fashioned washing with soapy water,
rinse thoroughly and dry it well. Take it mix proportion and strength. Here
in Montana, you are foolish if your
for a last ride if you want to blow and
coolant isn’t good for 40 degrees below
zero. I prefer 50 below. Frozen coolant
can mean catastrophically ruptured
engine block/cylinders, head or head
gaskets.
Some recommend sealing the ends
of exhaust systems – even the intake
– with plastic bags to keep moisture
out. I no longer do this as our climate
is quite dry. If condensation were to
run out of the exhaust weep holes upon
spring startup, I’d surely reconsider my
laziness.
Drain and refill your crankcase,
even if the bike is not due for an oil
change, as used oil contains acidic
contaminants that will corrode engine
internals. Consider replacing the filter
as well. I refill with a light oil to make
starting and running easier when I take
the old girl out of hibernation when it’s
still relatively cold in the late winter or
early spring.
For the super anal, you may want
to pull the spark plugs, then squirt
oil onto the cylinder walls through
the spark plug holes. With the plugs
out and grounded, crank the engine
so the rising and falling pistons coat
the cylinder walls with oil, thereby
preventing internal winter corrosion.
I only took this (above) step one
time, then decided it was too much
work for any potential benefit...but
that’s in my dry climate. If I lived near
the ocean, I’d probably go through the
trouble. Besides, the cylinder bores in
my ride have a ceramic coating which
I believe would minimize potential
corrosion.
winter.
I’ve heard of using Armor-All
and like treatments on tires as a
preservative but I don’t, knowing they
could be slick come spring. Besides, I
wear them out long before they can dry
out or crack from age or weather.
I used to pull my motorcycle
batteries and store them in my
basement, hitting them with a periodic
trickle charge throughout the winter.
Now I have wired them to plug into
battery maintenance devices which
maintain a proper charge all winter,
regardless of cold and weather. I’ve
found this helps with spring start-ups,
too, as some modern fuel injection/
ignition systems need batteries fully
charged at capacity to make things
hum.
If your battery is conventional leadacid, make sure electrolyte levels are
full before winter storage (use only
distilled water to replenish). Modern
gel batteries are maintenance-free, but
need special charging support.
Finally, lock it up, cover it and
forgedaboudit. But use a proper cover:
cotton, as in old bed sheets, collects
and holds moisture and may mildew;
plastic will keep moisture off your
bike, but will also trap moisture under
the cover. Use a motorcycle-specific
cover that incorporates materials that
properly breath while keeping dust and
garage crud off your gleaming machine
all winter.
Tires need attention
Check tires for proper inflation.
Most recommend setting pressures at
the maximum.
Ideally, put your bike on the centerstand and block it under the headers to
get both tires off the ground. Some say
otherwise tires will develop permanent
flat spots, though I’ve never found this
to be the case, even after a six-month
layup (so I no longer take this step).
Others say to simply put a thin slab
of wood or cardboard under tires and
you’re good to go.
Another benefit would be to unload
the suspension, potentially extending
the life of seals and springs. I’ve
personally experienced fork seals that
were fine at layup but failed during the
Under a winter blanket, back wheel
suspended by the center stand, front
wheel on a board, both tires fully aired.
Thoroughly cleaned and waxed, fresh
fluids, treated fuel system, battery on a
maintenance device... Ready to go next
spring.
My beat up almost-30-year-old
Kryptonite disk lock in place. The
author had his garage invaded and
bike stolen in 2005. Security was
unfortunately lax.
We’ve read that a cover will also
discourage thieves. However, I also
use a Kryptonite disk lock, plus the
integrated steering locks. A heavy chain
looped around something immovable
would be extra insurance. Be sure to
remove ignition keys and lock the
garage or storage unit doors.
Be aware, some shops and
dealerships will handle the whole
thing for you, including furnishing the
storage space. If you live in a cramped
apartment with no storage in a highcrime area, or your significant other has
no compassion for your motorcycle,
consider this option!
PRODUCT REVIEW
Michelin PR 3s are satisfactory despite odd wear
By Cole Boehler
In late August we were planning a
Labor Day weekend trip to Seattle. The
rear tire on my touring rig was seriously
worn so I replaced it before departure.
I had mounted a set of Michelin
Pilot Road 3s earlier in the season.
Now, 5,300 miles later, for the expected
1,800-mile trip to the notoriously wet
coast I wanted the performance and
peace of mind expected from fresh
rubber.
I have been getting about 4,0005,000 miles from rear tires with my
Yamaha FJR 1300, which calls for a
180/55ZR17. I usually run 40-42 PSI.
I realize that is relatively poor
mileage, but consider the bike goes
almost 650 pounds wet, and we usually
ride two up – about 350 pounds
of humans – and with loaded side
panniers, Givi V46 trunk and a tank bag.
Altogether our total GVW must be close
to 1,050 pounds.
Now factor in touring speeds of 70 to
80 miles-per-hour on mostly chip-sealed
surfaces, and sometimes mid-summerhot surfaces, and that’s a recipe for rapid
tire wear. (My front tires last longer with
perhaps one-third to one-half their life
remaining when the rear is gone.)
So we weren’t disappointed with
5,300 miles.
I did once get 6,500 miles from a
Michelin PR 2, but a substantial number
of those miles were one-up, and that tire
was seriously shot and showing cords.
The worst I’ve done on this bike was
with a Dunlop Sportmax Roadsmart
– 3,800 miles and the cords were
showing! A new-design Bridgestone
Battlax 023 was almost as bad, though I
have done better with the Battlax 020s
Once I had the wheel off the bike,
I cut a strip of rubber out of the center
of the tread to see how much actually
remained, and found approximately
3/32nds of an inch. I reckoned this
would have yielded another 750 miles,
perhaps even 1,000, but I would have
been running on an essentially bald tire
center; not good in the wet.
I understand the Michelin PR 3
has the same construction and rubber
compounds as the well known and
regarded PR 2, except with additional
tread siping to improve wet traction.
I did get to run the PR 3s in rain on
a couple of occasions, even pushing
Slicing into the tread revealed about
3/32nds of an inch of rubber remaining
above the cords at 5,300 miles.
things a bit in the turns, and found
edge. That effect merely satisfied me
I like the idea of my tire money
traction to be very reassuring; I never
that the soft rubber was doing its job
circulating in our local economy (some
felt the rear getting away.
under power and
of which
The front PR 3 has worn remarkably
on the brakes.
may
well, better, in fact, than any other front
My local
circulate
tire I can recall. With over 5,000 miles,
tire dealer tells
back to
it still appears almost new. It does tend
me pricing for
me).
to hum and howl, but I suspect most of
new skins has
In
the tire noise is merely reflected back to been volatile,
addition,
me via the large windscreen.
and volatile
by ordering
The Pilot Road is a dual-compound
mostly upward,
from the
tire with a harder, more durable rubber
especially during
Internet,
in the center of the tread where most of
the last four
you may
us ride most of the time, but has a softer months, likely
be getting
and stickier compound out on the tread
related to volatile
“seconds”
shoulders where extra adhesion is useful raw materials
or units
Shoulder sipes were ground down on the leading
edge (yellow arrow), flared up at the trailing edge
when the bike is leaned over in turns.
costs (petroleum
with
(red arrow) and were worn away mid-shoulder
The round profile of most touring
byproducts).
cosmetic
(green
arrow).
Still,
they
behaved
reasonably
well.
tires these days will often exhibit
The
blemishes
a flat strip down the center as wear
manufacturer’s
that the
progresses,
suggested retail price (MSRP)
factory couldn’t otherwise sell.
and that
for the Pilot Road 3 rear (180/55Also be wary of getting a “dated” tire
is the case
17) is $304.95, but they can
that may have sat in some warehouse
with this PR
be had for as low as $165.77
for a couple of years. Tires and rubber
3. However,
plus shipping. Front MSRP
age, getting hard and brittle. Tires are
the softer
(120/70/17) is $220.95, but
compound
are available for $131.02 plus
on the tire
shipping.
shoulder
Expect to pay about $20 to
also
$30 less for the conventional PR
developed
2 rear and $15 to $20 less for the
a flattening
PR 2 front than for the PR 3s.
profile
If you are considering Internet
between
purchase, be wary of high freight
the tire
costs. Also recognize that your
center and
local dealer will likely cut you
the extreme
no breaks on mounting and
outside
balancing charges, sometimes as
The Michelin Pilot Road 3 front has
edge.
high as $50 (I’ve even heard of
been wearing exceptionally well
This
$60) per wheel, whereas if you
and will likely last the life of two
wear
buy from a local dealer they will
rears.
pattern in
sometimes discount mounting
essence
and balancing substantially, or
yielded a bit of a corner between
even offer the service at no cost.
Compare the profile and tread of the new
where the bike would transition from
Many local dealers will also match
PR 3 at left versus one with 5,300 miles.
completely upright to a substantial lean. your Internet prices or work to come
While never really spooky, when riding
close. Give them a chance.
upon that “corner,” it was
I buy our tires locally and in
stamped with the week and year they
clear the contact patch was
December 2011 I paid just
were made. The date code, mandated by
significantly reduced.
$155 for a Michelin PR
the U.S. Department of Transportation,
As a result, at that
3 rear and $125 for
is printed on each tire’s sidewall.
lean angle the bike
the matching front.
The code will end in four numbers.
was a little twitchy,
Since I’m planning
The first two digits tell the week the tire
tending to want to
to go back to the
was made; the last two tell the year of
return to upright,
conventional PR 2
manufacture. So the four-digit number
or to drop further
(I can’t justify the
“5009” means the tire was made in the
into the lean. In
extra expense of the
50th week of 2009. Personally, I’d make
effect, at that
PR 3s, especially
sure a “new” tire is no more than one
point the steering
since we get mostly
year-old.
felt lighter than
dry summer weather
Interestingly, the PR 2s are also
normal and it
in the Northern
available in a “B” rear version that
was easy, if not
Rockies), August
incorporates an extra ply for a stiffer
fully focused, to
27 I had my dealer
sidewall that is said to be designed
wander from your
price a set of PR 2s:
specifically for loaded two-up touring.
desired cornering
$168
for
a
rear,
$130
In my past experience, the “B” version
The PP 3 rear flattened in the
line. Again, not
for
a
front.
The
best
yielded no extra mileage or control that
center, as expected, but also
disconcerting, just
Internet
prices
I
found
I could detect, but the “B” does cost
flattened at shoulders creating a
not fully confidence
profile with a “corner” (red arrows) were $149.59 for a rear, about $20 to $40 more per tire.
inspiring.
$118.31 for the front.
Tires now cost me around seven
at the transition between upright
During the 5,300 and a significant lean angle.
My dealer’s price is
cents a mile, almost equal to my fuel
miles this tire was
close enough for me!
costs! It pays to keep tires properly
used, we did get to run some excellent
Considering freight, and likely fullinflated to maximize tire life while
mountain twisties in Canada, Idaho and
bore pricing on mounting and balancing, minimizing costs. Check pressures
Montana – perhaps half the mileage –
it makes no sense for me to buy from
before every ride.
so it was no surprise the tread shoulder
some company in California which may
And sure, check the Internet, but give
exhibited substantial wear, but the main
or may not stand behind the product. I
your local dealer a shot at the sale. They
sipes there were worn almost completely know my local dealer would.
might surprise you.
away in the shoulder centers.
I remove the wheels from the bike
At the extreme outside where the
and deliver them to the dealer for
Satisfaction rating - Four Stars
rubber is softest, the deep sipes were
mounting and balancing at $16 per
worn away at the leading edge and
wheel which is quite reasonable (going
“paddle-wheel” flared at the trailing
to $20, I’m told).
PRODUCT REVIEW
Adventuress skin products are luxurious necessity
By Dottie Rankin
NR Rider Wyoming Correspondent
When the weather is not conducive
to riding, my thoughts turn to what
made this riding season enjoyable and
easier for me.
My Adventuress Skin Care
Collection products did this for me.
I have determined my Adventuress
Collection is my luxurious necessity.
It’s that good.
What makes the Adventuress
skin care line stand out is that it is
formulated by a woman who rides
(Michelle Carter), and is made
specially for women who ride (us).
“Biker tested, thrill seeker approved,”
is her motto!
I first tried this skin care collection
because it is formulated for outdoor
women. I stayed with it because of how
it makes my skin look and feel.
I also like my skin products to be
naturally based and when I found out
this line was free of petroleum, mineral
oils, synthetic perfumes or fragrances, I
was ready to try it.
The collection I have includes,
a 1.7-ounce cleanser, 1.0-ounce
skin purifier, 1.0-ounce moisturizer,
2.0-ounce sunscreen and five individual
wipes. I also have the (YouVee’s)
sunscreen swipes.
These travel-size products come
packaged inside the zippered travel
case that is about 6.5 inches square.
The Intro Offer Collection sells for
$85.
The first thing that struck me was
how well the whole system works for
riding. The containers that hold the
product are airless pumps which keeps
the product fresh longer and keeps
out contaminants, plus they are crush
resistant.
The (YouVee) sunscreen wipes are
a favorite. These individually wrapped
little guys are designed and packaged
so you can apply the sunscreen without
getting it all over your hands. There
is a finger pocket to ensure a clean
application.
The sunscreen is a highperformance, water-resistant sunscreen
that works well for my sensitive skin.
I have had trouble with sunscreen
products making my eyes sting if sweat
gets in them when I am riding. This
face feeling luscious, revitalized and
hydrated, not tight and dried out. I like
that it is fragrance- and paraben-free.
Boswellian bark tears soothe my
skin and Spanish Castile Soap cleanses
and calms. This comes in a 1.7-ounce
size for $18.
The Vividly Restorative Skin
Purifier was a bit of a mystery to me.
It is said to “restore skin’s youthful
radiance.” It hydrates,
unblocks pores
and is packed with
micronutrients. I use
it after the cleanser
and let it absorb
before applying the
moisturizer.
If any one
component of
this product line
exemplifies luxury,
the Boldly Nourishing
Moisturizer would
be it.
I use this
moisturizer whenever
Adventuress Skin Care Collection, a “luxurious necessity”? my skin feels
dry, day or night.
Boldly Nourishing
doesn’t happen with the Adventuress
Moisturizer has a targeted delivery
line.
system with essential emollients
The sunscreen wipes are sold six
that include French Rose Hip and
for $10 or 50 for $40. The sunscreen is Evening Primrose oils. It provides
also sold in a 2.0-ounce size for $26.
intense moisture and hydration yet is
The Fearlessly Refreshing Facial
lightweight and nourishing. It is $32
Wipes are a convenience that I won’t
for one ounce.
be without. You get five in the Intro
Carter took her Adventuress
Offer Collection or you can order a box line to the American Motorcyclists
of 25 for $24.
Association (AMA) Women’s
These handy little wipes are
Conference in Nevada this year and
biodegradable and act as an
had a great response from those who
environmental shield to protect from
know riding and those who attended.
irritation, rash and redness.
Rumor says here may be a men’s
Two ingredients included in these
line somewhere in the future and if the
wipes are aloe vera and chamomile and quality of this line is any indication, it
they feel heavenly.
will be wonderful.
The Naturally Liberating Cleanser
I love this whole line of products
is a gentle cleanser that leaves my
so it is hard to pick which one I like
the best. They complement each other
perfectly, they travel well and this is a
skin care collection I can stick with.
For purchase or distribution
information on this product please
contact, [email protected]
or call 231-459-8485. To see the full
Adventuress Skin Care Line, visit their
website at <http://goadventuress.com/
the-collection-2.html>.
Product satisfaction
Michelle Carter
From the founder, Michelle Carter
“From the first time I rode a
dirt bike at 10 years-old, I was
totally hooked. And while I revved
up the power from a dirt bike to
my Harley, I still get those same
butterflies every time I ride.
“But I don’t just reserve my
passion for two wheels and
an open road. My drive for
being active and the search for
something exciting calls me out to
hiking trails, the ski slopes and just
about everywhere else in between
I can explore.
“Bottom line... I don’t sit still.
And to me, that passion for
adventure and zest for life is what
being an Adventuress is all about.”
Yogo Inn bike event has promise after first run
By Chuck Swenson
Yogo Inn
bikes started arriving for the contests and live
music, food and fun.
The hit of the 2012 event was 10-year-old
The First Annual Travel’n Bike Show at the
Hannah Clemenson who sang with her father,
Yogo Inn in Lewistown,
Dennis Clemenson,
Mont., started out
the band Charlie
a little slow due to
and The Argonauts.
inclement weather
Hannah was born
and road construction
without sight, but it
issues, but ended up
didn’t slow her down
being a great success,
a bit. She has become
according to the Yogo
somewhat famous and
Inn’s sales director,
the crowd was swept
Chuck Swenson.
away by her talent.
Swenson coordinated
Cindy Fleshman
the event. He reported This is Hannah Clemenson with Charlie and the Argonauts. of Bozeman won
that by 5 p.m. on
“Best Bike of Show.”
Monday when the seven-day event started, it was Keeping it “in the family,” her husband’s bike
raining so hard (to use the vernacular of an old
was the runner-up. Cindy won a night’s stay in
northeastern Montana farmer) “it was comin’
one of the luxury suites at the Yogo Inn.
down like a cow pissin’ on a flat rock!” All
When asked what he might do for the event
events were cancelled for the evening.
next year, Chuck said he would really like more
However, as the week-long event moved into
vendors and that he would probably do a threethe weekend, the crowds increased and more
night event rather than a week-long event.
Bozeman, Montana’s Cindy Fleshman’s ride won “Best
Bike of Show.”
He also said that they would start later in the
evening next year, to catch more traffic for the
evening, and may possibly be moving the event
to two weeks before the Sturgis Rally.
All in all, the Yogo Inn Travel’n Bike Show
and Mini Rally looks to be an up and coming
new event for touring motorcyclists and locals
alike.
Hypothermia can render riding skills useless, then kill you
By Roger Carron
NR Rider Correspondent
Last month I wrote on heat
exhaustion and heat stroke. It now
may be more timely, depending
upon the reader’s local climate, to
take a look at the
opposite condition:
hypothermia.
Excerpted from
<wiki.answers.
com>: Hypothermia
means belownormal body
temperature. Hypo
means “under” or
“below” and therm means
temperature. Hypothermia is when
your core body temperature drops.
You are normally about 98.6F
degrees (37C) unless you have a
fever (which is the opposite, or
hyperthermia.)
If your internal temperature gets too
low, it can be very dangerous. This is
most likely to happen when you are wet
because water is very good at removing
body heat. It is very important to get a
hypothermic person warm, dry and
somewhere that they can rest. Fire,
warm drinks and most especially the
body heat of others can be a life saver.
Read up on it more if you plan to
go riding, hiking, swimming, boating
or cross-country skiing – anywhere
temperatures are low, or if you are
going anywhere away from warm
environments for an extended period of
time. What are the stages of
hypothermia?
Stages: uncontrollable shivering,
some mental confusion, muscle miscoordination, victim becomes pale and
extremities (fingers, toes, ears and lips)
may become blue; extremities shut
down, limbs are cut off from blood
flow, torso has limited blood flow
(only heart, lungs and brain), heart and
respiratory rates and blood pressure
declines.
Clear thinking and speaking is
difficult, amnesia may appear, muscle
coordination is lost, metabolism shuts
down, stupor may set in, major organs
fail and death is imminent.
Hypothermia
and the biker
Hypothermia is something any of us
can get for free. It doesn’t cost a penny.
All you need is some cold air, cold
water or both.
If you are on your motorcycle
the wind can do a job on you just as
thoroughly. Think “wind chill factor.”
Where I live, the cold weather
comes for a visit around the middle
of December. However I grew up in
southern New Hampshire where it can
get sub-zero for much of the winter and
snow usually comes calling by early
November.
You guys and gals in the south
might think how lucky we are to
be able to ride all year long. Don’t
be fooled by all the hype the local
Chamber of Commerce puts out about
the warm sunny weather. It can get
down right cold in the southern U.S.
by any standards, but we can’t let that
deter us from riding all winter long.
Hypothermia follows us around like
a bad friend, just waiting for us to make
a mistake and leave home on the bike
without
proper
clothing.
I learned
Roger Caron
about this
Guest Column
“friend”
while
riding my
first street
bike, a
Honda 350 Super Hawk.
I rode up to Conroe, Texas, to watch
the Motocross races. It was a beautiful
warm fall day so I only had on a shirt
and jeans. Just as I was leaving a “Blue
Norther” came down with a vengeance
and the temperature dropped 30
degrees.
I had no windshield back in those
days and the sudden cold air started
robbing the heat from my body and I
was really shivering from the cold. The
first gas station I came to I stopped and
went inside to get warmed up.
The store manager saw my
condition and gave me some old
newspapers to stuff inside my shirt,
sleeves and all. What a difference
that made! I came close to being
hypothermic but got warmed up just
in time. Just a little colder and I would
have had a ride to visit the nice people
at the local hospital.
After that day 43 years ago I have
never left home on my bike with out
warm clothing somewhere on the bike.
The point being is, hypothermia can
catch you off guard even when you feel
it is going to be a warm day and the
weatherman has backed you up.
Preventing hypothermia:
the right clothing
Savvy outdoors enthusiasts know
that insulating critical heat loss regions
(head and neck, sides of chest, armpits
and groin) forestalls hypothermia,
frostbite or simple cold discomfort.
Layering appropriate fabrics helps
preserve body heat, also.
No cotton! Wear a wicking fabric
next to your skin, insulating layers
of fleece or wool, then an outer
layer made of windproof, watertight
materials.
Clothing made of modern watertight
materials like nylon and Gore-Tex are
good for keeping warmth in and cold
and water out. However, they require
carefully selected underclothing since
the garments may not have built-in
insulation.
The modern textile jackets with an
insulated removable liner available
today provide much more warmth than
a leather jacket. I wear a Wind-shear
wool sweater under my Joe Rocket
textile jacket along with poly long
underwear.
I also have a pair of fleece windshear pants I purchased from Cabelas. I
purchased a size large enough to just fit
over a pair of jeans so when it warmed
up I could remove them.
A couple of years ago I went out
looking for a nice warm scarf. Off to
the local mega-mart I went to see what
I could find. Walking down the sporting
goods aisle I noticed fleece sleeping
bags for under $10 so I purchased one.
I removed the zipper and cut a strip
about eight inches wide down the long
way and had a great warm scarf! I also
made one for my wife and a couple of
friends.
Many other times, when It gets cold
suddenly, I’ve gotten out my Goretex rain gear and put it on. It is a big
help, adding some warmth but most
importantly stopping the infiltration of
the heat-robbing wind.
Almost all camping stores sell
Mylar, paper-thin reflective blankets,
sometimes called “space blankets.”
They weigh almost nothing, cost
pennies and fit in your pocket for just
such an emergency. In the Northern
Rockies in the winter time, it might be
a good idea to have one in a pocket of
every jacket you wear. I do keep one in
my bike’s first-aid kit.
It sneaks up on you
Remember, you can
experience hypothermia
in just 50-degree
weather.
Hypothermia
sneaks up on you,
so you probably
aren’t the best
judge of whether
or not you are
hypothermic.
Listen to your
fellow riders.
Since each individual
reacts differently, the
severity of hypothermia
is best measured by taking a
core temperature reading using a rectal
thermometer. Oral measurements do
not accurately measure changes in core
temperature.
I really don’t recommend taking the
rectal temperature first then the oral
measurement right after!
Treating hypothermia
First aid goals include: preventing
further heat loss, re-warming the
victim, quickly getting professional
medical help as needed.
If you or another rider is showing
signs of hypothermia you need to get
them warmed up any way you can,
even if you must remove your clothing
and his or hers and warm them with
your body until help can come. Don’t
let your companion say no because the
alternative can be fatal.
Plenty of medical professionals
and rescue personnel recommend this
body-to-body contact (in other words,
sharing body heat).
However, there is a body-to-body
re-warming controversy.
Some research suggests that this
technique may not be beneficial. The
rationale comes from the fact that the
person offering up their body heat is
giving about as much heat as they are
taking away by restricting the victim’s
shivering response. And, the heat donor
becomes colder in the process.
In addition, minimize the victim’s
physical exertion. Protect the victim
from wind, especially around the
head and neck. Move them to a warm
environment if possible and avoid reexposure to the cold. Warm compresses
and warm (not hot) liquids that are nonalcoholic and non-caffeinated also
help to restore heat.
If you are helping a
hypothermic person, be
gentle; internal organs
are sensitive to
physical shocks.
The victim
should remain as
inactive as possible
so blood from their
cold extremities
won’t reach their core
too quickly. A cold
heart is particularly
susceptible to ventricular
fibrillation.
During all first aid
efforts, watch for changes in the
victim’s temperature and vital signs.
“After drop” is a danger when rewarming hypothermia victims because
cold blood in the extremities returns
to the body core, lowering the core
temperature further.
Hypothermia victims with moderate
to critical symptoms should see
a medical professional as soon as
possible.
Please search the internet for more
information on hypothermia. It may
save your life, or the life of someone
you love.
Ride warm and be safe!
Shell Campground
A Motorcyclists
A Quiet &
Relaxing Spot at
the Base of Big
Horn Mountains
Haven at the end of a Long Ride
• Cabins with Queen Beds & Private Baths • Non-Smoking • Free Wifi
• Shaded Tent Sites • Full Service RV Sites • Shower Facilities
Terry & Margie invite you
to stay at the...
Shell Campground
102 1st St. - Shell, Wyoming 82441 • 307-765-9924 • [email protected] • shellcampground.com

NRR October/November 2012

Transcription

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