A Moroccan Winter Interlude

A
Moroccan
Winter
Interlude
Escape the biting cold of winter and turn up the heat in Marrakech –
soaking up the vibrant, modern life of the city to the sweeping dunes of
the Sahara, all the way to a downright authentic, nomadic expedition
to the remote mountainsides.
WORDS BY KM
Medina Wall at Meknes, Photo courtesy of Jordan Lloyd
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A Splendid City
Leave your sense of direction behind as Marrakech
is a choice destination to lose yourself in. Getting lost
in the city’s narrow alleys and labyrinths of little
streets is the best warm up for your journey amid
a lively, energetic vibe. The city is split into the oldworld Medina and the modern neighborhood of Gueliz.
Even with the plan of getting lost, it is always best to
start with the old before moving onto the new. In a
way, you are tracing back in time, getting a firsthand
experience of the city’s progression to the present day.
Kick off at the Djemaa El-Fna, the Medina’s town square and
renowned gateway to the markets, smaller souks and many
interesting shops. Wander through the streets filled to the
brim with shops selling spices, hand-crafted lanterns, argan
oil, leather goods, cactus silk and, should you be interested,
many variants of potions. As nighttime falls, the square is
transformed into a high-spirited entertainment scene packed
with story-tellers, dancers, acrobats and musicians.
The imposing Koutoubia Mosque within the square is a sight to
behold. The landmark is Marrakech’s largest mosque, known
for its beautiful craftsmanship and well-designed minaret
towers. The plaza and manicured gardens surrounding the
mosque is a charming site for a relaxing walk, while taking
in the sights and traditions of the Medina. To truly immerse
in the culture, stop by during prayer time to witness a sea of
crowds praying as one.
Koutoubia Mosque, Photo Courtesy of Jordan Lloyd
E
njoy a light snack or a cup of coffee at the rooftop
terrace of the chic Un Déjeuner à Marrakech, just
off the vibrant shopping street of Riad Zitoun Jdid.
Dining at the Dar Yacout is a must for every Medina visit. The
restaurant boasts impressive Moroccan interiors in the middle
of a courtyard scattered with petals.
El Badi Palace
S
pend an afternoon exploring the shops starting with
the impressive stretch of Rue de la Liberté. Among
the famous boutiques that line this strip is Intensité
Nomade carrying brightly-coloured caftans designed by
trendsetter Frédérique Birkemeyer and the Place Vendôme
with many high-quality Moroccan leather goods.
Catch some action at the tanneries near Bab Debbagh, that is,
if you don’t mind catching some of the pungent smells as well.
Although not for the faint-nosed, it makes for an interesting
experience of watching artisans rinse, scrape and stretch skins
to produce leather.
Ease into the present-day Marrakech by heading to the Ville
Nouvelle district of Gueliz. Here, you can indulge in a taste
of modern living with a plethora of trendy cafes, restaurants
and specialty boutiques lined up. The district’s highlight is the
bustling Avenue Mohammed V, a charming boulevard laced
with palm trees and the best of the Ville Nouvelle.
Segue into the night after a day of city-strolling. The gorgeous
La Trattoria de Giancarlo is a breathtaking venue for dinners,
with tables surrounding a lovely swimming pool in the midst
of a well-manicured courtyard. The indoor restaurant is also
enchanting with its domed-ceiling, cosy fireplace and large
French windows.
Complete your traditional tour with a visit to the palaces,
starting with the most famous El Badi Palace, which literally
means “the incomparable”. Staying true to its name, nothing
can quite compare to its grandiosity, even as it stands on
its ruins, from the expansive courts and pools to the sunken
gardens and pavilions. Next, head to the Bahia Palace
to discover why it is called the “palace of the beautiful” –
magnificent courtyards, elaborate tile work and intricate
carvings complete the exquisite architecture.
Start your tour of Gueliz early with a sumptuous brunch at the
stylish Grand Café de la Poste along Boulevard el-Mansour
Eddahbi. Request for a table on the terrace, which allows for
some lounging and people-watching. Upon satisfying your
cravings, head to the Jardin Majorelle for a relaxing morning
in a quaint tropical garden owned and designed by iconic
designer Yves Saint Laurent. Even his death in 2008 did not
separate him from this beauty – his ashes were scattered in
the gardens and a memorial was erected in his honour.
If you’re in for some chic escapade, drive about 10 km outside
of the city to La Plage Rouge Marrakech. This classy poolside
done up in contemporary design, with loungers and daybeds
feature world-famous DJs spinning out modern tunes under
the scorching desert sun. Marrakech is a city throbbing
with energy and character. It is also intricately sandwiched
between the Sahara Desert and the snow-capped Atlas
Mountains, allowing travellers more exotic adventures beyond
the majestic city.
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Jardin Majorelle
CLIMATE
October 15 to 28°C
November 10 to 22°C
December 6 to 19°C
October is one of the best months
to explore Marrakech with cooler
temperatures and lesser crowds.
November is perfect for a more
relaxed holiday and December marks
the start of winter, with pleasantly
warm mornings and chilly evenings.
EVENT
The Marrakech International
Film Festival takes place from 30
November to 8 December this year.
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The Great Sahara
The less-trodden village of M’hamid is a quintessential
destination for travellers seeking an authentic experience of
the great Sahara Desert. Known as “the end of the road”,
beyond the village lies nothing but the infinite sands of the
desert. Such exquisite remoteness is the site of the stunning
Erg Chigaga Luxury Camp.
The camp is an experience exclusive to no more than 12
campers accommodated in six luxury tents, laced with
picturesque sand dunes of the Sahara. The en-suite tents
are spacious and fitted with handcrafted furnishings, solarpowered lighting and deluxe amenities. Those seeking total
privacy and a deeper exploration of the desert can enjoy the
camp’s three nomadic sites. Campers are treated to a different
location each night, as the camps are within a day’s trek of
each other. The trek to the tents is an exquisite experience in
itself and upon reaching the isolated camps, the comforts of a
luxury en-suite sleeping tent with a separate lounging tent set
by the dunes prove to be a great reward. Another lavish treat
are the gourmet dinners served under the stars accompanied
by bottles of wine and a crackling campfire.
G
et ready to trek deep in the desert on foot, camelback
or an exhilarating ride on a four-wheel drive,
complete with picnic lunches under a tree fronting
the dunes. Adventure seekers can get their fill of adrenaline
with sand boarding, quad biking and cycling. Water and GPS
will be provided, and those who left their sense of direction
behind can request for a private tour accompanied by a local
Berber. Return to camp to catch your breath after a day of
activities and watch the chefs whip up Moroccan specialties
under the moonlight. You may either join in on the fun of the
preparations, or sit back while the experts do the work. What
follows is an evening of indulgence on good food and great
company illuminated by a million stars above you.
The seven to eight-hour drive from Marrakech is also quite an
adventure with scenic landscapes, quaint villages and many
exciting stopovers for coffee, lunch, shopping and sightseeing.
You may also charter a private aircraft or helicopter to take
you directly to the foot of the desert.
Moroccan Nomad, Photo courtesy of Simon Grosset
The Moroccan Nomad
How about an exhilarating hike to the spectacular Moroccan
mountainsides? This voyage, surely not for the craven is a sure
hit for the intrepid explorer. After having your fill of the sights
and tastes of the city, it is time to take the adventure to a
higher level, and quite literally so.
Sitting between the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert
is the volcanic mountain range of Jebel Saghro. This
unfrequented patch of land is home to the Berbers, more
specifically the semi-nomadic tribe of Ait Atta, who spend
eight months in the range before relocating to the High Atlas
Mountains to seek refuge from the scorching summer. The
itinerary allows for an exploration not only in this remote part
of Morocco, but also in the lives of this ethnic tribe for a truly
extraordinary cultural experience.
A six-hour drive from Marrakech takes you to the village of
Hamdor, where you will meet your host for the next three days.
The ride will take you through the High Atlas Mountains, by
the elevated pass of Tizi n’Tichka all the way to the expansive
desert of the south. You will then have your first destination
dining experience at an oasis near the town of Ouarzazate.
Shortly after lunch, the drive continues to N’kob, and the
remaining part of the trip to Hamdor will be completed on
foot. A bowl of steaming tajine, a hearty, local stew cooked
in a clay pot awaits your arrival in Hamdor. The day ends as
you retreat to a traditional house called gite d’etape to rest for
the night. If you’d rather skip the drive and proceed straight to
Hamdor, a private helicopter ride can also be arranged.
“ Epic Tomato, creators of bespoke
expeditions to remote destinations
recently launched the Epic Weekends
collection featuring exclusive
itineraries in Iceland, Tanzania,
Rwanda, Jordan and Morocco. “
T
he exact trek route from Hamdor the next day
depends on the weather and grazing conditions in the
area. You will be joined by your host family during
the trek, along with a herd of goats, mules and sheep. This is
the closest you can get to the life of these Ait Atta nomads,
starting with an early morning walk through rough terrains
and landscapes, setting up camp at midday and relaxing in
the afternoons. You will also have plenty of time to enjoy the
scenery while camping in the wilderness with a backdrop of
natural springs, green pastures and bright oases. You also get
to learn some shepherding skills, traditional bush crafts and
bread-making from the nomads as you immerse in a lifechanging cross-cultural experience.
Epic Tomato, creators of bespoke expeditions to remote
destinations recently launched the Epic Weekends collection
featuring exclusive itineraries in Iceland, Tanzania, Rwanda,
Jordan and Morocco. The Moroccan weekend includes luxury
accommodations in Marrakech, transfers, modern camping
tents, meals, private guides and camping equipment.
Sahara Desert, Photo Courtesy of Jordan Lloyd
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A
nother contender for the most extravagant abodes in
Marrakech is the equally stunning Palais Namaskar.
The sight and smell of the scented and manicured
Balinese gardens, sprawling lakes and arched hallways
will leave you breathless long enough to survey the entire
grounds in awe. Bespoke furnishings, blending oriental and
contemporary designs deck the area – heavy damask linens,
thick, handcrafted carpets and Murano chandeliers to name a
few, add a touch of sophistication to the palatial ambience of
the estate.
Luxurious Abodes
Out of the many lavish accommodations in the city, the Royal
Mansour Marrakech is one that is truly fit for a king as it is
actually built by one. Owned and built by King Mohammed VI
with an undisclosed budget, the property has only been open
to the public for two years. Needless to say, everything in this
property is splendidly grand. How much was spent is no longer
as important as how much luxury it now offers guests – and
that is entirely up to you to discover!
All of the riads on offer are decadent, but for the ultimate
spoiling, book the Riad d’Honneur and indulge in the 1,800
sqm villa with its own courtyard, swimming pool and four
massive bedrooms. Countless features are sure to vie for
your attention upon arrival at the Royal Mansour – the whole
property is decked in exquisite handiwork created by over
1,000 craftsmen, to begin with. Throw in five-star room
amenities from designer beds, linens and bath products to the
individual rooftop pools overlooking the open-air courtyard.
The inviting spa with hot and cold pools and hammams should
not be ignored, as the library with a retractable hand-carved
cedar roof and state-of-the-art telescope that transforms into
an observatory with one push of a button.
Mountain Palace
Accommodations are grandly split into rooms, suites, villas
and quite naturally, palaces. Yes, you can be a king or queen
for a day, a weekend or longer if you wish, as soon as you
book either the Mountain or Water Palace for your stay. The
Mountain Palace houses three elegant bedrooms fronting a
heated pool and laced with 2,000 sqm of private gardens.
The Water Palace boasts four exquisite bedrooms all looking
out to the heated pool and manicured gardens adjacent the
imposing Atlas Mountains. As soon as you can muster the
strength to leave the comforts of your palace, do check out the
enchanting main pool, outdoor dining terrace and rooftop bar,
which all look magnificent over a Moroccan sunset backdrop.
Mountain Palace Living Room
T
he bare wooden door and simple entrance downplay
the extravagance that is to be expected as soon as
you make your way into the Riad Farnatchi. Based
on its name, one would expect a fine, traditional Moroccan
house hemmed with courtyards, but the Riad surely left the
pretense at the door, as everything beyond the entrance
is nothing short of majestic. Intricate traditional artworks
bedeck the area that blend well with the modern design and
handcrafted furnishings of carpets, draperies, headboards and
textile with lavish embroideries.
The nine suites boast of its own distinct character, each
carefully designed to amaze even the most discerning of
travellers. Suite 5 is one of the most spacious, with a cosy
fireplace in the separate living area and connecting private
balcony overlooking the courtyards. Suite 3 is a charming
space with a separate bedroom and living room, a private
terrace with pool views and an amazing bathroom with a black
granite sunken bath. All suites have handmade beds fitted
with fine, Egyptian cotton sheets. A relaxing soak in the jetstreamed pool before giving in to a heavenly massage in the
traditional white marbled hammam are a few of the many
indulgences you are invited to try at the Riad Farnatchi.
Suite 5
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