Constructing a Professional Worktable

Constructing a Professional Worktable
Plan A: 48”W x 72”L x 37”H
Plan B: 60”W x 120”L x 34”H
Plan A - Materials and Supplies:
Items
Items
2x4x8 (9)
Table Canvas (2 yds) - #TC72
¾” Plywood (1 full sheet)
Various Saws
½” Plywood (1 full sheet)
Air compressor and staple gun #NSG10
4x4x8 (2)
Casters (4) - #TC11
½” x 2” Lag Bolts (16)
Deck Brackets (16)
2 ½” wood screws
1 5/8” wood screws
Pinnable Underlayment (6 pcs) #TC24/8
A professional workroom table is one of the most
important tools used in creating custom window treatments, providing a stable, versatile surface for cutting,
pinning and ironing fabrics, tabling drapery panels,
creating patterns, upholstering cornices and more. This
must-have workroom fixture will last for the lifetime of
your business with occasional recovering.
3/8” Staples - #NS33/E
Screw Gun
3/16th” Drill Bit
Utility Knife
Carpenter’s Square
Marking Pencil
Tape Measure
Table Padding (2 yds) - #TC10
Step-by-Step - Plan A:
Cutting the wood pieces
1. 2x4 cuts: You will need to cut and build 2 frames – 1 for the
top shelf and 1 for the bottom shelf.
a. Cut 4 @68”; Cut 8 @41”
b. Keep the scraps of wood –they will be used as additional
braces for the casters.
2. Plywood cuts: The plywood can be cut into smaller strips if
needed for transportation purposes.
a. Cut 1 @ 44x68 (½” piece); Cut 1 @ 48x72 (¾” piece).
b. On the ½” piece (bottom shelf ), cut out the corners for
the legs.
i. At each corner, measure in 1 ½” on 2 sides, then trace
around the top of the leg piece. Cut the corner away,
cutting slightly larger than the marks. (Photo 1)
Photo 1
3. 4x4 cuts:
a. Cut 4 pieces at 31 ¼”.
b. Table finished height* is 37”. 37.5” (caster height) – ¾”
(padding height) = 31 ¼”.
*Table height should suit the user. To determine height, measure
from the floor to between the hip and the elbow, or at height
comfortable for standing.
©Rowley Company 2011
Shows all pieces cut
1
Prepping the wood for the legs
1. Decide on the height of the bottom shelf. Cut a spare piece of 2x4 to that height minus 5” for the caster. (Photo 2)
2. Screw the 2x4 piece to the 4x4 leg pieces, making sure the bottoms and one side are flush.
3. Line up the casters on the bottom of the leg pieces. Mark the hole placement. (Photo 3)Pre-drill the holes for the lag
bolts. (Photo 4)
4. Using the lag bolts, secure the casters to the leg pieces. (Photo 5)
Photo 4
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 5
Building the frames
1.
2.
3.
4.
Complete the two frames by placing the shorter 2x4 cuts inside of the longer 2x4 cuts.
Be sure all corners are square and that the shorter 2x4’s are straight. (Photo 6)
Screw the frame together, using 2 screws per end for each shorter 2x4.
Lay the leg assemblies in the corners of the bottom frame and attach using the longer wood screws. Use two screws per
side per leg assembly. (Photo 7)
5. Slide the top frame onto the assembled piece.
6. Screw top frame to assembly as above.
7. Place a desk bracket at each intersection of leg to frame, on both the top and bottom shelf. Screw in the deck brackets.
(Photo 8)
a. Photo 9 shows the completed frame assembly
Photo 6
Photo 7
Photo 8
Photo 9
Photo 10
Photo 11
Putting in the shelves
1. Lay the bottom shelf in place.
2. Mark a reference line between end screws across the face
of the bottom shelf. (Photo10)
3. Screw in place using the shorter screws.
4. Place the top shelf on the top of the frame assembly, being
sure there is a 2” lip around all four sides. (Photo11)
5. Mark a reference line across the face of the top layer.
6. Screw in place using the shorter screws.
7. Mark a reference line 2 ¾” in, around all four sides on the
top.
8. Continue to screw the top down along the outside
perimeter.
©Rowley Company 2011
2
Cutting and Attaching Pinnable Underlayment
1. Lay out the 24x24” Pinnable Underlayment pieces on the top of the table, butting the pieces together for tight seams.
a. Cut pieces to fit as needed. Be sure to stagger seams if piecing is needed.
2. Screw the Pinnable Underlayment to the table top, using the shorter screws.
a. Do NOT over-tighten the screws. Screws should finish flush with the surface.
b. Use only enough screws to secure the material.
Applying the Table Padding
1. Roll out the table padding onto the top of the table. Let it rest for a few hours to relax any fold marks from shipping.
2. Trim the Table Padding to the size of the Pinnable Underlayment. (Photo 12)
Photo 12
Applying the Table Canvas
1. Roll out the Table Canvas onto the table top. Let it rest for a few
hours to release any wrinkles from shipping. (Photo 13)
2. Beginning at the center of one long side, staple the canvas in place
using only a few staple.
3. Stretch the canvas to the other long side and staple in place, using
only a few staples.
4. On one of the long sides, work your way from the center out, stapling
as you go. Staple all the way to the corners.
5. On the opposite long side, stretch the canvas across the table top and
staple in place, working your way from the center out.
6. Complete the same process for the short sides of the table.
7. At the corners, fold the excess material to one side, making a 45o fold.
Trim off excess canvas and staple under table edge. (Photo 14)
8. Lightly dampen the canvas.
9. Using a steam iron, starting at the center and working your way out
to the edges, steam iron the canvas for a final stretched fit.
©Rowley Company 2011
Photo 13
Photo 14
3
Constructing a Professional Worktable
Plan B: 60”W x 120”L x 34”H
Plan B - Materials and Supplies:
Items
Items
2x4x10 (8)
Table Canvas (4 yds) - #TC72
¾” Plywood (2 full sheets)
Various Saws
½” plywood (2 full sheets)
4x4x10 (2)
Casters (6) - #TC11
½” x 2” Lag Bolts (24)
Deck Brackets (24)
2 ½” wood screws
1 5/8” wood screws
Pinnable Underlayment (13 pcs) 1
each: #TC24/5 and #TC24/8
Air compressor and staple gun #NSG10
3/8” Staples - #NS33/E
Screw Gun
3/16th” Drill Bit
Utility Knife
Carpenter’s Square
Marking Pencil
Tape Measure
Table Padding (4 yds) - #TC10
Step-by-Step - Plan B:
Illustration I - 2 x 4 layout
is table measures 60W x 120L x 34H*. All
gured for this table size.
nished height, length or width,
you will need to adjust the materials needed.
56"
e top of the table will measure 60” x 120”, with a 2” lip
e bottom shelf will measure 56”
e outside measurements for the two frames will
nish at 56” x 116” – therefore the frame cuts will be:
24"
•
2x4 Cuts: Cut 4 @ 116”; Cut 12 @ 53”; Cut 6 @ 7”
(leg braces); and, Cut 2 @ 17” (frame brace).
24"
•
4x4 Cuts: Cut 6 @ 28 ¼”. (34 – 5 – ¾” = 28 ¼”)
•
¾” Plywood Cuts: Cut 2 sheets at 48” x 60”. Cut the
scraps into 2 pieces each @ 24” x 30”.
•
½” Plywood Cuts: Cut2 sheets at 48” x 56”. Cut the
scraps into 2 pieces each @ 20” x 28”.
116"
24"
24"
e frames are made the same as for the smaller table
above. Place the shorter 2x4 cuts inside the longer 2x4
cuts and secure with screws. Each frame will have 5
internal braces. See Illustration I.
*Table height should suit the user. To determine height,
oor to between the hip and the elbow, or at
height comfortable for standing.
©Rowley Company 2011
20"
28"
28"
4
Both the table top and bottom will require you to butt four pieces together. See Illustration II below.
Illustration II - Plywood Layout
Bottom
Top
60"
56"
48"
56"
60"
120"
48"
28"
30"
28"
30"
24"
60"
©Rowley Company 2011
56"
5