DIVING, SNORKELING, BEACHES AND ATMOSPHERE IN SUMATRA

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No. 5 (Dec. 2008)
DIVING,
SNORKELING,
BEACHES
AND
ATMOSPHERE
IN SUMATRA
OUR WEBSITE
ABOUT THIS
NEWSLETTER
Pulau Weh and Pulo Aceh is produced by
CV Penerbit Balohan Haloban on behalf of
BPKS (Badan Pengusahaan Kawasan
Perdagangan Bebas Dan Pelabuhan Bebas
Sabang, i.e. Management Board of Sabang
Free Trade Zone and Free Port). It is a part
of efforts to develop tourism on Pulau Weh
and Pulau Aceh. See www.bpks.go.id for
more information about BPKS.
Diving photos by courtesy of Rubiah Tirta
Divers, Lumba Lumba Diving Centre, and
their friends. Most photos on land by Mahmud Bangkaru and Adam N. Redaction can
be reached by phone: +62852 768 69101
and +620813 611 45023, or by e-mail:
[email protected]
Advertisements, critic, advice, and information are all welcome.
In www.sumatraecotourism.com you
can find all the information you need
about Pulau Weh and links to all the
dive centers and other facilities offering
services to you.
www.sumatraecotourism.com is being
developed into a Web portal for Northern Sumatra, mainly Aceh. Pulau Banyak and Tangkahan is already there
and we will add many other interesting
destinations such as Tongging, Kedah,
Banda Aceh with Lampuuk, and
Kuala Baru with the Singkil Swamps.
We will also make regular up-dates.
The latest issue of this bulletin, PULAU
WEH, can also be downloaded as a
pdf-file. Old articles can also be found
on the website.
With other words, there are many reasons to make regular visits to
www.sumatraecotourism.com
In this edition we don’t have a dictionary.
However, you can find it in our website,
both with more words and with more languages.
Foreigners normally use the geographical
name Pulau Weh or Weh Island. Indonesians normally use the administrative
name, i.e. Sabang. In this newsletter we
use Pulau Weh. In Acehnese it would be
Pulo Weh. Weh means move or go away.
It can also be derived from Ie (water).
By: Roelfsema
AROUND PULAU WEH
There is more to see on Pulau Weh than Iboih,
Gapang and Sumur Tiga. Pulau Weh is a beautiful and very green island with lush vegetation
and with breathtaking sceneries.
The wildlife that you will see is a lot of monkeys,
sometimes jumping on your bungalow roof, wild
boars roaming for food in the late afternoon and
monitor lizards running away when you drive
along the roads. Colorful butterflies are everywhere and interesting birds can be seen. North
of Iboih is a protected forest. A walk along the
road to the northern end of Pulau Weh is recom-
mended. It is here that Indonesia officially starts .
A monument has been built to commemorate
that. The spot is called Kilometer Nol (Km 0).
The real start of Indonesia is however Pulau
Rondo. You can see it far out to the north. From
there it is not too far from the Indian archipelago
Nicobar. Pulau Rondo has reportedly excellent fishing. It has also snorkeling and diving,
but not anything better than Pulau Weh. If you
want to go there, ask any boat owner near your
accommodation. The cheapest alternative
would be to join a fisherman from Iemeulee near
Sabang town. There you can get a good deal,
as long as the fisherman can fish during the trip.
Renting a motorbike or bicycle is a good way
to see Pulau Weh. There are many small roads
through the forests, orchards, and remote villages where you will become the attraction of
the week. Some roads are in very bad condition
and a few are very steep, for example coming
down to Balohan from the east. Be sure your
bike has good brakes and be careful. Petrol can
be found almost everywhere in small stands;
only Rp. 7.000 per liter. To rent a motorbike is up
to. Rp. 100.000 per day. Bargain!
When you drive over the mountain south of
Gapang you will see lots of monkeys waiting for
passersby to throw them bananas. On the
southern foot of the mountain, in Siruit, on the
waterfront is Coffee Shop Porto, a nice place to
stop for a coffee and to feel a hot spring in the
sea and to see a hot mud pool on the beach.
You can swim to the hot spring outside the coffee shop, but you need to dive down to feel any
warm water. The spring is on a depth of app. 6
m. To see the hot mud pool, just follow the stony
beach to the left, or ask in the coffee shop. Be
careful, the mud is boiling and it can be very hot
in between stones going there.
Follow the main road a bit further to Pria
Laot where a small river flows out. If you
follow it upstream you will see the biggest
waterfall on Pulau Weh. Just follow the
river along a partly invisible path, crossing
the river several times, climbing over and
jumping in between rocks and you will arrive at a beautiful place perfect for bathing
and relaxing. It is recommended. Keep it
clean!
Driving over the mountain to the south is
also very nice. There are a few small lakes
and a volcanic area with lots of holes, gas
and bad smell. The locals in the surrounding villages often have to extinguish fires.
Do not smoke or use fire in this area.
In the relaxed fishing village of Paya Keunekai is a sand beach called Pasir Putih. It
is very beautiful during the eastern monsoon season (roughly the second half of the
year). The coffee shop on the beach is
highly recommended. Two km further is
the beach Pantai Cum, a.k.a. Pantai
Bango. The following coast all the way to
Balek Gunung is very desolate and perfect
for solitude and finding own secret spots.
Especially so 5 km from the junction in
Paya Keunekai. At the bridge over a nice
stream, follow the path to the beach and
you find a nice natural camping ground.
Cars and motorbikes cannot go through all
the way to Balek Gunung and Iboihs.
In Keunekai, at the only junction in this village, turn down to the sea and you will find
some pools with warm spring water.
AROUND WEH BY BOAT
Many of the villages on Pulau Weh are
fishing villages so it is also a good idea to
charter a boat for a day or less to explore
the coastline of the Island. Sharing a boat
with friends can be very economical.
Various locations can be reached, for
example the waterfall, volcanic bubbles
spring, remote coral reefs and secluded
beaches where you can relax and enjoy a
BBQ lunch.
SOME FACTS
The province of ACEH (NAD) covers 60.000 sq.km and is populated by 4.200.000 inhabitants., divided on several ethnic groups: The Acehnese in Northern and western coastal
areas, Melayu Tamiang in the eastern coastal area, the Gayo in the central highlands, the
Alas in the southeastern highlands, the Pesisir in the south western coastal area and a few
minor groups on Pulau Simeulue and Pulau Banyak. App. 10 different languages are spoken in Aceh. North eastern Inland dominated by Bukit Barisan mountain range. Highest
peaks are Leuser: 3,466m, Ucop Molu: 3.187m and Abong-Abong: 3.015m.
The regency of Sabang (mayoralty) has 26.000 inhabitants on an area of 153 sq.km. The
town Sabang with its app. 10.000 inhabitants was founded by the Dutch because of its excellent harbor and good water supply. Between the world wars it was even more important
than Singapore. The Forest Reserve on the northwestern point covers 1.300 hectares. The
Marine Reserve covers 2.600 hectares.
Pulo Aceh consists of five major islands, of which Pulau Nasi and Pulau Breueh are the
inhabited ones. It covers 241 sq.km and forms a sub-regency in the regency of Aceh Besar.
There is no town, but several villages. Some parts were severely damaged by tsunami.
Malaria is common in Pulo Aceh; use prophylactics.
IBOIH (Teupin Layeu)
The beach area near Pulau Rubiah has become known as Iboih. Teupin Layeu is a
more correct name. This area has more of a
backpacker feeling than Gapang. Besides
diving, snorkeling, swimming and relaxing the
area is also nice for walks, either north to the
next beach and Km 0 or south along the path
to Lhok Weing. The island Rubiah just outside
is worth a visit. There are even a few bungalows on the eastern beach. It is possible to
swim over, but only if you are a good swimmer. Use fins and remember that the current
in between can be very strong. Don’t do it
alone. Otherwise, go by boat.
KLKP View Information at the parking lot is
owned by a tourism community group. They
arrange boat trips, motorbikes, bicycles snorkeling equipment etc. Internet is available at
the dive shop.
Food
Several restaurants and coffee shops can be
found at parking area overlooking the fishermen’s beach. They serve mainly Indonesian
food. Just beyond the gate to the bungalow
area is Café’ Olala and at the second beach
you find, Chill Out and Mama Restaurant.
Several accommodations have their own
restaurants. International and Western style
food available in all places.
Accommodation
Prices fluctuate very much with the length of your stay.
The prices below are just indications. There are also a
few bungalows on Pulau Rubiah.
Erick’s Green House 5 rooms. Some with attached
bathroom and all with kitchenette. Rp. 60-120.000. Discounts for long stay. Tel: +62652-334218.
Ayub’s 2 rooms and 1 bathroom in one bungalow. Rp.
70-120.00. Discounts for long stay. Ask for Mr. Ayub at
the parking area or ask in Erick’s next door.
Arina 4 bungalows. Same price level as the others.
Rubiah Tirta Divers. 1 bungalow. With bathroom and
spring bed. Rp. 100-150.000 depending on length of
stay.
IBOIH (Teupin Layeu) cont.
The seven bungalows after the diving
school are all individually owned. If nobody
approaches you, just ask in Mama Restaurant. Under renovation.
Fatimah Bungalows. 6 bungalows. Rp.
40.000 for long stay and Rp. 75.000 for
short stay. Ph: +62652-3324107.
Mama Mia Restaurant & Bungalows. 4
bungalows. Rp. 30-50.000 depending on
length of stay. Also offers massage and
traditional medicines.
O’Ong Rest. & Bungalows. 9 rooms. Rp.
25-70.000 depending on length of stay.
With bathroom: Rp. 100-150.000.
Iboih Inn & Restaurant. 8 bungalows.
With bathroom. Rp. 150-250.000, incl.
breakfast. Boat transportation and trips etc.
Tel: +62811841570 (Ms. Saliza).
[email protected]
HANDICRAFT
Most of the handicrafts found on Pulau
Weh are made from the coconut palm.
The industry is still small and it is not until
the last few years that the people of Pulau Weh have come to understand that
their art actually is appreciated. Almost no
marketing has ever been done to promote
it and as a visitor to Pulau Weh one almost has to search for it.
What you probably will see in Iboih and
Gapang are very beautiful necklaces and
earrings made out of coconut shell, often
combined with seashells. There are a
handful of guys making these at home
and selling them directly to foreign visitors. Recommended!
Yulia’s Bungalow & Rest. 12 bungalows.
Rp. 80-100.000 for short stay and 4050.000 for long stay. Tel: 0813 7727 9989.
Pulau Rubiah 5 bungalows. Rp. 4070.000. 1 big two room bungalow with
bathroom and kitchen: Rp. 250.000. Restaurant available. Can only be reached by
boat. Ask at the parking lot or call: 0813
774 11125 (Samsul) to be picked up. Rp.
100.000 for return fare.
TEUPIN REUDEUP
Teupin Reudeup is a bay with a beach a
couple of kilometers beyond the junction
for Iboih beach (Teupin Layeu) towards
Km. 0. Some hundred meters before the
beach, with a view towards Pulau Seulako
is the small Tien’s place.
Accommodation
Tien’s Place. 3 bungalows with bathroom,
Rp. 250.000. Discounts for long stay. Restaurant.
Tel:
+62852-77343147,
+6285277775212 (Bobby). 2 km beyond
the junction for Iboih beach.
The government organization Dekranas
support local efforts and has a small
showroom. (See town map). In Ujung
Kareung on the east coast (see map) is a
small factory making handicrafts of wood
from the coconut tree. There you can also
see the how they work. Several women
make embroidery at home. The shop
Toko Sabang, Tel: 0652-21140, next to
PUM Losmen sells souvenirs, mainly
Acehnese embroidery from the mainland.
GAPANG
Gapang is one of the two most visited
beaches on Pulau Weh. It has a wider variety of bungalows than any other beach,
from very simple huts to air conditioned and
TV-equipped bungalows. Besides snorkeling, diving, hanging out and swimming you
can also walk to Balek Gunung. It is not too
far. For seeing flying foxes, waterfall and
jungle; ask in Limbo Restoran.
Food
There are several restaurants directly on the
beach, such as Mama Jungle, Zero, Limbo,
Barracuda’s, and Dang Dang Na. International and Western style food available in all
places. Don’t forget to try Naguna Warkop &
Nasi up on the main road. They serve both
price worthy and nice Indonesian food.
Accommodation
If you plan to stay a week or two, you can get
big discounts.
Leguna Resort 24 bungalows with attached
bathroom and aircon. Single room bungalow:
Rp. 250-400.000. Two room bungalow also
available. No restaurant but food for groups
can be arranged. Tel: +6281 2695 1415, Mrs.
Linda.
Flamboyan Gapang Resort One room bungalows, two room bungalows and three room
bungalows, all with aircon and attached bathroom: Rp. 250-400.000 per bungalow. 18 bungalows (22 rooms). Meeting room. For booking, tel: +6213 6027 2270, Mrs. Mina. Transportation from ferry available. Fishing boat.
Dang Dang Na Restaurant & Bungalow
(former Ohana). 3 bungalows with attached
bathroom. Rp. 50-80.000. Tel: 0852 6041
8854, 0852 6033 7436 Mr. Syukur. No booking
over phone. Popular.
Lumba Lumba Living. Bungalows with fan,
bath, fridge, diver adapted, and Wi Fi: 20-25 €..
7 duplex (11 rooms) bungalows ready, but
more under way. Tel/Fax: +62652 331133,
+62811682787. www.lumbalumba.com
[email protected]
Gapang Jaya Bungalows 4 rooms Rp. 50
000 in one house and 1 bungalow Rp. 100
000. No bathroom attached.
Ramadilla 9 single room bungalows of which 4
has attached bathroom, 1 triple room bungalow. Rp. 70-100 000 with attached bathroom
otherwise Rp. 50 000. Book on tel: ++62815
4304 6668 (Mr. Indra), Mr. Danu.
BALEK GUNUNG
On The west coast, just opposite Gapang is
Balek Gunung. The area can be reached by
foot. There is a seasonal beach app. the
first half of the year. When it is there, it is
extremely beautiful. A few caves are
nearby. Goa Sarang can only be reached
by swimming or by boat at low tide. Goa
Kamprek is three small caves a few hundred meters away.
Do a JUNGLE TREK to Gunung Keris, the
highest peak on Pulau Weh. See the protected forest, birds, butterflies etc. Contact
Mustafa in Gapang on 0852 7744 2222.
SUMUR TIGA and the East Coast
Pantai Sumur Tiga on the east coast of
Pulau Weh is during western season the
best beach on Pulau Weh, i.e. app. the
second half of the year. For long it was kind
of forgotten and only visited by locals living
in the area and a few foreigners who knew
about its solitude and good snorkeling. The
corals are not as good as in the Iboih/
Gapang area; however when it comes to
the fish there are no complaints. Dolphins
are often sighted further out at sea. Two
new resorts have been built here during the
last year, both with tastefully designed bungalows, international food and good service. Also two simpler places have appeared up at the road.
What is known as Sumur Tiga is a short
stretch of beach, but in reality the beach
stretches from Iemeulee and two miles
south, thereby forming the longest beach
on Pulau Weh. Sumur Tiga means the
third well. There are actually five wells
along this beach. The first well (Sumur
Satu) is south of Iemeulee (meaning trickling water) in the beginning of the beach.
After the second well (Sumur Dua) and all
the way to the far to the far end, the land
behind the sand beach is steep and the
trees give a lot of atmosphere and shadow
for those who prefer. At the third well, i.e.
the Sumur Tiga itself, is the bungalows of
Santai Sumur Tiga. At the forth well (Sumur
Empat) is a Japanese bunker built with
forced labor during WWII. Almost at the far
end of the beach, is the fifth well (Sumur
Lima). Here is the bungalows of Casa
Nemo. By now you should be able to count
to five in Indonesian.
A bit further down the coast beyond Sumur
Tiga is Ujung Kareung with more bungalows. The east coast has some nice sand
stretches in between rock formations. It
can be nice to explore the coast with snorkel, mask, and fins. Check up the current
before you start. The road south is good
until Anoi Itam, a popular place amongst
locals on weekends. It has a black sand
beach, a big Japanese bunker and nice
corals. There are several nice coffee shops
out of the way along this road.
Workshops
Sumur Tiga has become a very popular
place to do workshops. Especially the
creativity and relaxing atmosphere are appreciated qualities. Santai Sumur Tiga and
Casa Nemo work together.
Accommodation
Santai Sumur Tiga, Pantai Sumur Tiga,
Iemeulee. Tel: 0813 6025 5001,
[email protected]
www.santai-sabang.com 9 bungalows
and 3 rooms. With fan and bathroom: Rp.
225-275.000. Complete international
restaurant. Meeting room for 25 persons.
Wi-FI available. Booking needed over
weekends.
Casa Nemo, Pantai Sumur Tiga, Iemeulee.
Tel:
0813
6025
5001.
[email protected] www.casanemo.com
9 bungalows w fan, bath, and minibar: Rp.
225.000, weekends 275.000. Complete
Italian/international restaurant. Booking
needed over weekends.
Monle, Jl. K.H. Agus Salim, Ie Meulee. Tel:
0852 7741 4321. 2 rooms, 2 bungalows.
Rp. App. 150.000.
Perdana Beach. Jl. K.H. Agus Salim, Ie
Meulee. Tel: 0852 6207 1939. 7 rooms
with bathroom, aircon, TV. Rp. 150200.000.
Tuna Café, Ujung Kareung. Tel: 0815 3347
7137 (Pak Anwar). 9 bungalows. With fan
and bathroom. Rp. 150.000. Big restaurant
and small private beach. Meeting room for
20-30 persons.
Café Ujung Kareung A relaxing coffee and
noodle shop on the water front. 100m beyond Tuna Café. Open 06.30-late at night.
DIVING AND SNORKELING
The visibility, the number of species, the big fish, the clear blue water, and both beach and
boat diving, make Pulau Weh perfect for both experienced divers and beginners. All the big
ones have been spotted around Weh: Mega Mouth Shark, Orcas, Whales, Whale Sharks,
Manta Ray, and Sun Fish.
Pulau Weh is the place to get a diving certificate. The prices are still very attractive, especially if you also have to rent the equipment. Two guided fun dives from boat is app. 25 €
including full equipment. A non-guided beach dive with full equipment it is app. 12 € and a
certificate is about 260 €. (Prices are only indications.)
You don’t have to be a full-fledged diver to enjoy the underwater world of Pulau Weh. You
don’t even have to go far. Almost everywhere you find nice snorkeling and you don’t need to
compete with other snorkelers about the space. If you snorkel in Gapang and Iboih you will
very likely see hawksbill turtles.
Snorkels and fins are easily available for rent; normally Rp. 30.000 per day complete with
mask and fins. Underwater cameras are available for rent at the dive shops.
DIVE OPERATORS
Rubiah Tirta Divers, Iboih Beach, Pulau Weh, NAD, Indonesia. Ph/fax: +62652 3324 555,
Ph: +6281534020050. [email protected] www.rubiahdivers.com
Lumba Lumba Diving Centre, Gapang Beach, Pulau Weh, NAD, Indonesia. Tel/Fax:
+62652 331133, +62811682787. [email protected] www.lumbalumba.com
Pulau Weh Dive Resort, Gapang Beach, Pulau Weh, NAD, [email protected]
www.pulauwehresort.com Only fun dives so far.
Steffen Sea Sports, at Gapang Resort, Pulau Weh, NAD. Tel: +62813 6081 1848, +62813
7726 8868. [email protected] www.steffen-sea-sports.com (In Malaysia: Pulau Kecil -Coral Bay, Perhentian Island, Tel: 6-019-9111256).
EYEWITNESS REPORTS
Kevin Richard from Canada: This is the third time here since 2001. Pulau Weh never
ceases to amaze me every time I come. The diving is fantastic, the people are great and life
above the water always seems to slow down to a snail’s pace. Pulau Weh is my home away
from home.
Nadine Chandrawinata from Jakarta: Wow!!! Pulau Weh is so awesome. Two thumbs up!!!
Keep up and look after the beauty under water and on the island. Sea, waves, stars… so
great and also the very friendly locals. Wait until I come again. (Translated from Indonesian)
Marjo: Absolute great! Wished I had discovered this earlier while living in Banda Aceh! Hope
to come back again!
By: Cordula, Germany
By: Michael J., Denmark
Frogfish
By: Siong & Dong Lee, Malaysia
By: Andreas Lange, Germany
By: Chris Roelfsema
By: Nazir, Malaysia
By: Nazir, Malaysia
Top left: Sumur Tiga
Top right: Iboih
Middle left: Gapang
Middle right: Pulau Weh
By: Fabrice
VISIT OUR WEBSITE: www.sumatraecotourism.com
SABANG
The cozy Sabang is an historical town and
it shows. Many old colonial buildings are
still standing, shadowed by huge trees that
the Dutch once imported from Suriname.
Sabang is one of the few towns in Indonesia which still has a sleepy old colonial atmosphere combined with a very social and
friendly people. Due to its excellent harbor
and good water supply Sabang became an
important coal loading station for ships en
route between Europe and Asia. Sabang
was once even bigger than Singapore. The
Merbabu Graveyard has many old and interesting gravestones.
The main attraction is however the atmosphere and the people. It is a pity not to try it
out. Enjoy eating out, the coffee shops, the
morning market and the nearby beaches.
Pantai Kasih is a nice beach in walking
distance. Further down are the beaches
Pantai Tapak Gajah and Sumur Tiga.
The reefs along Sabang Fair are reportedly nice for snorkeling.
Don’t miss the traditional Acehnese coffee shop. Order a cup of coffee and sit
down. Traditional cakes on a plate will be
placed in front of you. When you are finished just tell how many you had. The locally grown Acehnese coffee is excellent. It
is normally filtered before served, however,
in the countryside the coffee is sometimes
served unfiltered. If you cannot wait for the
coffee beans to sink, remove them with a
spoon. The remaining beans you just spit
out. Beware of coffee shops serving instant
coffee. Support the local coffee farmers! A
small glass costs normally Rp. 1.500-2.000.
Beer or other alcoholic beverages are
normally not available in restaurants, but
are often available in places serving Westerners, (for non-Muslims).
Sabang Hill, The classical hotel with the
grand view over Sabang town is under a
major renovation.
Nagoya Inn, Jl. Cut Meutia 34. Tel: 065222311, 0812 699 6068 (Mr. Parlan). 9 rooms. Aircon, bathroom,
hot water, satellite TV: Rp. 250325.000, incl. breakfast.
Sabang Guesthouse. Jl. T. Umar 23-25.
Tel: 0652-21186. 8 rooms. With bathroom,
aircon: Rp. 250-350.000.
Hotel Putra Salju, Jl. T. Umar 16. Tel:
0652-22747. 9 rooms. With aircon and
bathroom: Rp. 180-330.000.
Pulau Jaya, Jl. Pulau Jaya 17. Tel: 065221344. 23 rooms. With fan: 35-112.500.
With fan and bathroom: 120.000. With aircon, bathroom, TV: 180.000.
All kinds of Noodles, called
"mie” in Indonesia, are popular
in Sabang. “Mie Jalak” is a
Sabang specialty. Pulau Baru
on Jl. Perdagangan 29B has become famous for it. A portion is Rp. 8.000. For good
Minangkabau food (West Sumatra style) try
Lumbung Sari on Jl. Perdagangan 7 (Ph:
0658-22678) or Perkasa Utama on Jl.
Perdagangan 157 (Ph: 21185). For Chinese try the somewhat fancier restaurant
Dynasty. Aneka Ria has nice and price
worthy sandwiches. Nice BBQ Chicken and
Octopus Satay are sold in two stalls ner the
road to Holiday.. Otherwise there are many
restaurants and food stalls along Jl. Perdagangan and its vicinity. Next To the main
Mosque is Leguna Restaurant. They have
free Wi Fi. Opposite the Mosque is also an
Internet Café. Beyond the RSU hospital on
the sea front are a few nice places serving
juices and light food in the evenings.
Kartika, Jl. T. Umar 17-19. Tel: 065222168. 14 rooms. With fan: from 30.000.
Fan and bathroom: 85.000. With Aircon:
150.000.
Losmen PUM , Jl. T. Umar 3. Tel: 065221148. 13 rooms: With fan: Rp. 50-75.000.
With aircon, bathroom, TV: 130.000
Losmen Sabang-Merauke, Off Jl. T.
Umar. Tel: 0652-21928 12 rooms. With fan:
Rp. 30-60.000 for one, two or three beds.
Losmen Calok. Jl. Malahayati. Tel/fax:
0852-22535. [email protected] 9 rooms.
Aircon and bathroom. Rp. 150-225.000.
Hotel Holiday, Off Jl. Perdagangan. Tel:
0652-21131. 24 rooms. With fan and bathroom: 50-140.000. With aircon: 175.000350.000
Mess Pamen, Jl. Perdagangan 60. Ph: 0852
6053 4904. 5 rooms. With bath and aircon:
Rp. 125-175.000. Owned by the Water Police. Strategic location.
THE TRANSPORTERS
Cars and motorbikes cannot enter the bungalow and beach area In Teupin Layeu (Iboih).
Everything needed there has to be carried in
and that creates jobs for Kak Ima and Pak
Yasin.
Kak Ima, ”The Water Lady”, always seems to
be happy, always laughing whilst carrying
heavy water buckets on her head or washing
clothes
by
hand. Carrying
water
and
w a s h i n g
clothes is her favorite pastime, she claims, not to forget
sweeping floors and gardening at her house. Everyday she
carries drinking water to the bungalows in Iboih. She married in 1975 and moved to Iboih in 1988. Her dream is to one
day visit Mecca. She likes tourism as it gives her an income.
When we asked to take her photos, the bucket was however
empty. She quickly filled it with water saying: “Otherwise it
would be cheating.”
Pak Yasin “The Machine” is the man who carries in supplies
to the bungalows and the restaurants and takes away their
waste. He was born in Iboih and has lived there his whole
life. He likes cleanliness, his job, and black sweet coffee.
Invite him for a cup and listen to the stories he has to tell, in
Acehnese language.
When we asked what message they would like to send to all
potential visitors Kak Ima said: Welcome to Iboih and let me
do your laundry. If you are a Muslim do not ”play” until you
are married! Pak Yasin said: “Be clean and keep Iboih
clean.”
FISHING
Pulau Weh offers ample opportunities for
fishing. According to one visitor Pulau
Rondo is one of the “Top Five world fishing sites”. If this is true or not, we cannot
yet say, but we dare to say it must be good!
Fish that you can catch there are Yellowfin
and Bluefin tuna, Tenggiri (King mackerel),
Giant trevally, Bonito, Sailfish, and Wahoo.
Wahoo is also called Jack mackerel. A Wahoo can be up to 2,5m long, weigh up to 80
kilos and can swim at a speed of 75km per
hour.
To experience the fishing at Pulau Rondo
and other places, you can join a local fisherman in his traditional boat. Either arrange yourself, ask for help where you stay.
At Flamboyan Gapang Resort has a boat
specially equipped for fishing (5 persons)
Also for round trips (20 persons) and transportation.
TRANSPORT ON WEH
The local transportation on Pulau Weh has
been criticized for bad service and overcharging. The main problem is that there
are not enough passengers to run a regular
service between Balohan and Gapang/
Iboih. There are efforts to improve the
situation and hopefully it will become better
with fixed prices and scheduled departures.
comfortable. The owner of Rubiah Tirta
Divers in Iboih go by boat from Sabang
Town to Iboih every morning at 08.00 and
return around 17.00-18.00. The boat is big
and tourists are welcome to come along.
Price is up to you.
Pak Yunus has a 16m long boat equipped
for diving, fishing, and cruising. It is available for charter. It can be an alternative to
go to Banda Aceh if you are a group. The
trip to central Banda Aceh takes app. 2,5
hrs. Call 08126991949 (No English) or ask
in Gapang.
Minibuses are waiting in Balohan where the
ferry arrives. Local fare to Sabang town is
Rp. 15.000 in a packed minibus; Add Rp.
5.000 if you continue go to Sumur Tiga
Beach. To Gapang and Iboih they charge
Rp. 150.000 per minibus. Always bargain .
Motorized becak are available in Sabang .
Min. Rp. 5.000 per ride. Market to Sumur
Tiga is app. 10.000.
An alternative route to Iboih is by boat
from Sabang town. It is faster and more
GOING TO PULAU WEH
TIMETABLE
From Ulee Lhe
(Banda Aceh)
From Balohan
(Pulau Weh)
Fast Ferry
Daily
09.30 and 16.00
08.30 and 15.00
60-90.000
Car Ferry
Daily
08.00
19-37.000
Mon, Tues, Thu, Fri.
Wed, Sat, Sun.
Price (Rp.)
14.00
11.00 & 16.00
13.30
High speed ferries take 45minutes and the
car ferry takes 2,5 hours. They all leave from
the new ferry terminal in Ullee Lhe. There are
no airplanes. Note that schedules can
The slow ferry and the fast ferry.
change without prior notice.
Labi-labi in Banda Aceh
Lampu’uk and Lhoknga
Banda Aceh
Banda Aceh was heavily damaged by the
tsunami. Big parts of the town just disappeared. Since then new houses has been
built by different help organizations. Banda
Aceh was once a lush town with lots of trees.
Slowly new trees grow up and will shadow
the streets of Banda Aceh again. All the
money that has been poured into Aceh have
changed the economy. Prices have gone up
and some locals have learnt the art of overcharging. Always ask the price in advance.
If you have a few hours left over in Banda
Aceh there are a some interesting places to
see, for example the Grand Mosque (Mesjid
Raya Baiturrahman) in the center if the town
and the market behind and next to it. The
Museum Aceh can also be worth a visit. A
visit to the outdoor food court in Peunayong,
at night is recommended. It is just in front of
Hotel Medan and is called “Rek”. Don’t miss
the huge ship, once used as an electricity
plant near Ulee Lhe, now stranded several
kilometers inland in the middle of a village .
A memory of Tsunami.
Lampu'uk and Lhoknga to the east have
fantastic beaches and good surfing. Guest
house in Lhoknga: Malala/JK Homestay, Jl.
Lapangan Golf, Lr. Kuala Satu. Tel: 0812
6983 2103. 7 rooms. Rp. 30-35.000. Joel’s
Restaurant in Lampu'uk have opened again
in a different location. Beware of dangerous
currents when swimming.
Going to Banda Aceh
Four airlines fly between Medan and Banda
Aceh. Besides Garuda Indonesia there are
two Low Cost Carriers: Lion Air and Sriwijaya Air. SMAC fly with small planes on
several routes between Medan and Banda
Aceh over Kutacane, Takengon, Tapaktuan,
Meulaboh Singkil and more. Can be a
cheap and scenic alternative if you want to
see Leuser National Park. The prices are
subsidized. Air Asia fly daily between Kuala
Lumpur and Banda Aceh. Firefly fly 4 times
a week between Sabang and Banda Aceh.
Visa on Arrival is not yet available in Banda
Aceh. Arrange it before you go.
The non-stop night busses between Medan
and Banda Aceh are comfortable. The major
bus companies are PMTOH, Pelangi, Kurnia, Pusaka, and Anugerah. In Medan they
all have ticket offices on Jl. Gajah Mada. All
becak and taxi drivers know the place. From
there the bus companies have free transfers
to their respective bus depot. The journey
takes 10-12 hrs. App. Rp. 120.000 in 2+2
seated bus, or Rp. 180-200.000 in 2+1
seated bus. In Banda Aceh all big bus companies can be found at the bus terminal.
The route over the west coast of Aceh with
all its beaches is partly still in bad condition
and the journey takes long time. Banda Aceh
to Tapaktuan in mini bus takes at least 10
hrs and cost app. Rp. 180.000 and up. The
route over Takengon and Central Aceh is
very beautiful, but time consuming. Banda
Aceh to Takengon is Rp. 85.000 by mini bus.
All the way to Kutacane is Rp. 180.000 and
takes almost 20 hrs. From there on it is easy
to reach Medan. Atrabu, Bahtera and Mandala traffic this route. Mini busses can be
found on Jl. Muhammad Jam, directly behind
the Grand Mosque. Mini busses normally
have door to door service.
Transportation in Banda
You normally arrive in Banda Aceh by bus or
by plane. The bus terminal is in Setui
(Terminal Bis Setui). The main road in front
of the terminal is Jl. Teuku Umar. To the
right (south west) it leads to Lampu'uk and
Lhoknga and continues down the west
coast of Aceh. To the left (northeast) it leads
to the Grand Mosque area in the center of
town. A little bit beyond the Mosque is the
river (Kreung Aceh) and on the other side of
the river is Peunayong.
There are taxi, becak (motorbikes with sidecars), and labi-labi (public minibuses) available. The cost for a ride with a labi-labi in
town is min. Rp. 3.000. Tell the driver where
you are going to be sure that you get on the
right one. Most of them end up at, or originate from, the new minibus terminal a couple
of hundred meters behind, the Grand
Mosque. Outside the big bus terminal are
labi-labi to this new minibus terminal. From
there are other ones to Peunayong and
other destinations. Labi-labi to Ulee Lhe and
the ferries to Pulau Weh (Sabang) can also
be found on Jl. Sultan Iskandar Muda, southwest of the Mosque; Rp. 6.000. Labi-labi to
and from the airport area is Rp. 8.000.
Becak and taxi can take you anywhere you
want in town or its vicinity. A becak is
roughly 30% cheaper than a taxi. Don’t forget to bargain. Normal prices for becak could
be like follows: From Bus Terminal to Grand
Mosque: Rp. 10.000. From Bus Terminal to
Peunayong: Rp. 15.000. From Grand
Mosque to Penayong: Rp. 5.000. From Bus
Terminal to Ulee Lhe: Rp. 20.000. From
Airport to Grand Mosque: app. Rp. 4050.000. Always bargain. Taxi charges officially Rp. 70.000, but you can bargain.
HOW TO “BEHAVE”
The people of Sumatra have in general
strong traditions and religions. They very
much appreciate visitors that respect their
way of life. Small changes in your western
behavior can make a big difference. Here
are some tips for you on how to “behave”:
♦ Placing hands on the hips is a sign of
anger or arrogance.
♦ It is rude to place one’s feet in a way
that the soles are facing another person.
♦ Don’t throw things to anyone. It is more
polite to hand it over directly, even if it
involves moving yourself a bit.
♦ Use only the right hand to eat food.
♦ In Indonesia you will be treated according to how you dress.
♦ If you visit a Government office, “dress
up”. Use long trousers, shirt with a collar
and shoes. You will gain a lot in respect
and service.
A FEW USEFUL TIPS
When asking for the way, you will always
get help, even if they don’t know! Always
ask several people in order to get an average direction.
♦ Men touching men and women touching
♦ The meaning of “just a moment” can be
women are common and completely
normal; but touching between the sexes
is rarely done in public.
frustrating when waiting for buses for
hours. It is just a way to talk. Have a coffee instead.
♦ Western style swimsuits are considered
♦ After having been asked, “Where do you
outrageous in less touristy areas. Near
villages and when locals are around,
please be modest. You can always ask
a local if you are unsure.
♦ When visiting a home, don’t forget to
take off your shoes.
♦ Avoid visiting Muslim homes at prayer
times.
♦ Always use your right hand when receiving and giving things.
come from?” “Where are you going?”,
“How old are you?”, “Are you married?”
etc. about ten times a day it is easy to get
irritated. Just remember it is only an expression of friendliness.
♦ Often in the countryside locals ask for
presents or souvenirs. Don’t take it too
seriously and don’t become embarrassed.
It is more just a way of talking.
AROUND PULO ACEH
If you want to see something before tourism develops and if you are
adventurous, then Pulo Aceh is the perfect place. It is close to Pulau
Weh, but still so different. It doesn’t have the diving and snorkeling
Pulau Weh has, but the beaches are breathtaking. Lots of forest is still
standing and the scenery is very beautiful. The locals are very poor,
very friendly and very social. Pulo Nasi is easier to visit with more
facilities and shorter distances. There are also more motorcycle taxis,
so called “RBT”; compared to Pulo Bereuh.
The best beaches on Pulo Nasi are Pasi Raye, Nipah and Lamtadu.
Pasi Raye is very secluded, as one has to climb a bit to reach it. The
forest behind it has Rusa Deer that sometimes comes down to the
Willem’s
Toren
Mata Ie, P. Nasi
beach. The village Lampuyang is the major entry
point on Pulo Bereuh, but the other villages are
nicer to stay in. It is recommended to continue to
Gugup or the villages beyond to the north. Lambaro, Baloh, Rinon and Meulingge have great
beaches. In the far north is a unique historical
remnant; the 110 year old light house
“Willems-toren”,
Pulo Keureusik has an amazing beach on
its eastern end.
Pulo Keureusik
Pulo Batee
PULO BATEE
The
uninhabited
island
of
Pulo
Batee sometimes
sees tourists. Before tsunami there
were some bungalows here. Now
they are slowly
being
built
up
again. Pulo Batee
is 4 km long, has a
scenic beach and some bat caves. It is a
perfect place to hide and get away. To go
there is like an expedition; only by appointment. Contact Andy on Ph: 0852 7099
4060, or 0852 7771 1773, e-mail:
[email protected] for more info.
Supplies are brought in together with you
and your friends.
GOING TO AND
ON PULO ACEH
There is a ferry from Ulee Lhe to Lamting on
Pulo Nasi. The schedule is still temporary, but
normally Tues., Thurs., Sat., and Sun. morning to Nasi and back after noon. Rp. 15.000.
From the ferry terminal in Ulee Lhe.
So far there is no accommodation, except
for Pulo Batee (see below), but most locals
are more than happy to help you out. Another alternative is to camp directly on a
beach. If you feel insecure, just ask the
village head “Kepala Desa” and he will for
sure arrange something. Don’t expect
spring beds and water closets and bring
sun lotion and malaria pills. Ask someone
to cook for you. The fish is always good.
After your stay, leave some money for
house and board in a hand shake.
Traditional boats leave Pulo Aceh at 08.00 for
the market in Banda Aceh and return back to
the islands after the noon prayers, app. 14.00.
From Ulee Lhe (near the bridge) to Deudap
and to Lamting on Pulau Nasi, daily except
Fridays , Rp. 15.000. From Lampuloh (app.
500m from Peunayong towards the sea) to
Lampuyang on Pulau Breuh daily except Fridays. Sometimes pay, sometimes free! Also
occasional boats to Gugup and Meulingge.
Boats can also be chartered on Pulau Weh.
The cheapest from Keunekai or Paya Keunekai.
On the islands, either walk or take a motorcycle taxi, called “RBT”, common on Pulau Nasi.
Ie Meulee, between
Pulo Aceh and
Puolau Weh
Pantai Nipa,
Pulau Nasi
VISIT OUR WEBSITE:
www.sumatraecotourism.com