e36 suspension DIY

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e36 suspension DIY
New Suspension--Done! - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum
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BMW Forum E36
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BMW E21
1991 - 1999 (E36) (1991 - 1999) The first modern 3 Series, the E36, was the model that paved the way for the 3 Series to be named "Car of the Year" every year since the model was
driving off showroom floors. Radically redesigned in 1992, the E36 was not the same 3 Series as the E21 and E30. Larger, less boxy in design, and equipped with a dual overhead cam
engine, multilink rear suspension, and a more finished interior, the E36 balances sport with luxury.
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12-11-2008, 04:10 PM
#1
Phillips0417
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New Suspension--Done!
Hello all, after much research and advice from many great people on here, I decided to tackle my suspension upgrade. I ordered up all my parts, LCA's, LCAB's, tie rods, inner and
outer, new shocks and springs and sway bar links. I started yesterday and it went slowly mostly because I didn't really know where to start and the spring compressors wouldn't fit
up beside the spring because of the little clearance thats in there. Today I tackled the passenger side and it went much smoother, not to mention faster. I tried to get pictures
when and where I could where I thought they could serve a purpose or show someone anything. Forgive me if I jump around here and there, but you'll get it.
This is a pic of removing the lower strut bolts that attach to the hub/rotor assembly. All this is made sooo much easier with the assistance of an impact wrench!
Okay out with the old! Wasn't that bad getting that out of there, the worst part was actually getting the abs sensor and brake line out of the way and around the strut.
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Got that old tired strut apart. Not too bad! That compressor took a loooot of wrenching, thanks to the impact!
Spring installed on new Bilstien. Isn't she sexy?
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This
is the way I had to go the get that inner ball joint nut. I tell ya, this side was a helluva lot easier than the driver side!! That u-joint made it soo easy though! BTW--a 7/8 socket will
do here if you are like me and only have a 1/2 drive impact!
Out
with the old LCA! It wasn't really that bad; the worst part was really figuring out what to do with that hub/rotor assembly once you free that outer ball joint. I didn't want to just
leave it hang by the brake line and didn't want to disconnect the abs sensor in fear of a check light.
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Old tired, worn and busted bushing, GONE! I stabbed what rubber remained and twisted off the lollipop. Then cut the metal housing of the bushing with a hacksaw and pried it
out with a little persuasion from the old hammer.
Pressing in the new bushing, taking care to have it equal on each side of the carrier. You can get it only so far, then you have to use spacers such as this to get it the rest of the
way.
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New LCA installed and damn those bushings were a Royal PITA to get onto the LCA! A lil help from Dawn dish soap did the trick but it still took a lot of twisting and pushing.
Helloooo Beautiful!!!
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Ass shot of that secksay biatch! By this time I've got the new tie rod installed too, and just going over everything to make sure nothing was overlooked.
New LCA
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This is a comparison of tie rods. Come to find out, this is a tie rod from a 7 series (or so I was told)!! The one on the bottom is the passenger side and that's what they should look
like. No wonder my steering was shaky and awry!!
Just another comparison; the one on the top is new obviously, making sure the new one is roughly the same length as the old one.
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Old 7 series DOH! Tie Rod, along side the correct application tie rod.
Box of old parts as if that's not obvious! Don't let the door hitcha on your way out!
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All
done! I know, I know, she's dirty but I'll clean it all up! I think the yellow compiments the green very well!
Her new stance! I think the front will settle in within a 100 miles or so, or that's what I hear.
So give me some feedback fellas! Thanks for all the help with parts and support with the technicals!
12-11-2008, 04:12 PM
Tatalalicious
That's what she said!
#2
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She must ride like new! It'll settle after a few weeks.
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12-11-2008, 04:15 PM
Bris328is
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looks good--excellent choice in shocks
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12-11-2008, 04:22 PM
#4
Phillips0417
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Yeah I thought my struts were gone because when I went over humps in the road, the car seemed to float for a quarter of a mile! They weren't gone, they were DEAD! Geez
were they bad, little to no resistance on the shock. Completely riding on the springs.
12-11-2008, 04:30 PM
#5
ducky328i
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awesome, it's always nice to complete a project.
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12-11-2008, 04:42 PM
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#6
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Phillips0417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LongBeachM3
She must ride like new! It'll settle after a few weeks.
I haven't driven it yet; I got the tie rods pretty close but didn't want to drive it 40 miles away to my home and back in the morning to get an alignment. So, there she sits in
my company's shop til the morn! I drove a company truck home tonight.
12-11-2008, 05:37 PM
#7
evan328is
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looks like some hard work, good job. i like the yellow.
12-11-2008, 05:51 PM
Stealthyfish
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#8
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Hey, I'm doing the control arms and tie-rods now. How did you remove the two? I tried wedging a pickle fork between the hub and the dust boot but the tie-rod didn't
budge at all.
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12-11-2008, 06:26 PM
#9
Phillips0417
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Uhm....I used two different pickle forks. They're different angles and one's a little wider than the other. Use the small one for the tie rod and the wider one for the ball joint.
They should separate rather easily. The passenger side sucked for me because is was original, but the driver side almost fell out when I took the nut off, I literally hit it like a
half a hit and it fell off.
12-11-2008, 07:18 PM
#10
thedude60126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bris328is
looks good--excellent choice in shocks
+1
It will settle very nicely now it just needs a nice wash
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96 328is SOLD
12-11-2008, 07:27 PM
#11
Phillips0417
Join Date: May 2008
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Thanks! Yeah, I drove it to work Wednesday in the rain..boooo, but I'll clean it up nice now that she's worthy
It looks happy now
12-11-2008, 07:28 PM
#12
ducky328i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealthyfish
Hey, I'm doing the control arms and tie-rods now. How did you remove the two? I tried wedging a pickle fork between the hub and the dust boot but the tie-rod didn't budge at all.
use a bigger hammer.
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12-11-2008, 07:52 PM
Righteous
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#13
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I love the pictures. Great thread!
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#14
Performance///M
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oo nice up skirt shots
Good work!
12-11-2008, 09:19 PM
TeamRootbeer
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#15
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Just finished that upgrade myself, tossed in new sway-links/bushings and some sport springs as well. Dish soap ftw
Some fond memories involving a pickle-fork, 2lb sledge, and those cursed ball-joints..
Great choice of equipment (maybe I missed it, did you go with sports or heavy duty?). Once you get it aligned, go find some twisties -- the new ride will blow you away.
12-12-2008, 02:35 PM
#16
Phillips0417
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Thanks for the compliments! I went with the Sports. I just got back from my buddy's shop and unfortunately, he told me I need camber plates. DOH! Guess I'll get them after
the holidays and get in there again. I'm not sure how they do the alignment without the camber plates on a regular suspension, let alone a lowered set up; basically unsure of
the procedure of the bolt adjustment he referred to. Anybody shine some light on this for me? The toe is dead on perfect and steering response is quick and precise now.
So, where do I get the camber kit and how does it install?
12-12-2008, 11:24 PM
TeamRootbeer
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#17
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Weird, I lowered mine another inch from stock (sport) height, no camber plates necessary. Only thing I had to do for the alignment was make sure the trunk was empty (aside
from the spare), and the gas tank was full. Anyone got any ideas as to why he would need them on a non-lowered setup?
12-13-2008, 12:50 AM
#18
Phillips0417
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No, I am lowered; I'm running Eibach's Pro Kit that drops 1.3" all the way around and Bilstien Sports. He didn't say anything about the rear alignment. I'm just curious as to
how they adjust camber on a normal stock suspension and then on a lowered one. I know the rear is adjustable by the LCA's, but I didn't think the front was that adjustable. I
knew about camber plates and camber kits but wasn't changing the geometry that drastically so I didn't order them. Although he didn't align it with me or anyone in the car
that I know of. Think that could have mattered that much?
Anyways, where is the best place to buy and how to install??
Thanks!!
12-13-2008, 02:02 AM
#19
FatJohn325
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nice thread, well done and good luck
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12-14-2008, 03:58 AM
rsy124
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Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillips0417
No, I am lowered; I'm running Eibach's Pro Kit that drops 1.3" all the way around and Bilstien Sports. He didn't say anything about the rear alignment. I'm just curious as to how they adjust camber on a
normal stock suspension and then on a lowered one. I know the rear is adjustable by the LCA's, but I didn't think the front was that adjustable. I knew about camber plates and camber kits but wasn't
changing the geometry that drastically so I didn't order them. Although he didn't align it with me or anyone in the car that I know of. Think that could have mattered that much?
Anyways, where is the best place to buy and how to install??
Thanks!!
On the stock suspension, only the front toe, rear toe, and rear camber can be adjusted.
12-14-2008, 07:42 AM
#21
Blanco
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Very nice. I'll be tackling both front and rear LCAs in a month or two.
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12-14-2008, 09:35 AM
LTCol
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that's awesome pics! how much total did it run you for all parts except shocks/struts and springs?
subscribed!
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- TT Stage 2 -
12-14-2008, 10:21 AM
#23
Phillips0417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsy124
On the stock suspension, only the front toe, rear toe, and rear camber can be adjusted.
Okay, thanks for the info! I'll be ordering probably from UUC. They look like they're well built and look nice too. Just to clarify, they replace the upper bearings right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTCol
that's awesome pics! how much total did it run you for all parts except shocks/struts and springs?
subscribed!
Thanks!! All the parts:
Left & Right LCA's
2 LCAB's
Left & Right Tie Rods (inner and outer)
New locking plates for the tie rods
2 Front Sway Bar Links
All parts from Bavauto and they ran around $400. I opted for the full metal ball joints so they'll be good for a while. I got the shocks and struts from a fellow member on here
that had an accident and was parting out the car. He only had them for 1000 miles and they were perfectly fine! I picked them up for $400 shipped from Cali.
Last edited by Phillips0417; 12-14-2008 at 02:19 PM.. Reason: Wrong Vendor for Camber Plates
12-14-2008, 10:35 AM
Bris328is
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillips0417
Okay, thanks for the info! I'll be ordering probably from Turners. They look like they're well built and look nice too. Just to clarify, they replace the upper bearings right?
Thanks!! All the parts:
Left & Right LCA's
2 LCAB's
Left & Right Tie Rods (inner and outer)
New locking plates for the tie rods
2 Front Sway Bar Links
All parts from Bavauto and they ran around $400. I opted for the full metal ball joints so they'll be good for a while. I got the shocks and struts from a fellow member on here that had an accident and was
parting out the car. He only had them for 1000 miles and they were perfectly fine! I picked them up for $400 shipped from Cali.
are you buying camber plates?
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12-14-2008, 01:15 PM
#25
Phillips0417
3D RC Heli Pilot
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No, I didn't order them because I only lowered 1.3" and didn't think they would be necessary because I wasn't changing the geometry that drastically. Now, I guess I need
them with my set-up, so I'll order them and install after the holidays.
Are you running them? Should I be? Are they that critical other than accelerated tire wear? Thanks Brian!
Jason
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