Nutria Tales
Transcription
Nutria Tales
AT NICHOLLS STATE UNIVERSITY MASS COMMUNICATION DEPARTMENT Chez NOUS EN LOUISIANE Spring 2013 VENETIAN GRILL Nutria TalesHOUSE SHADOWS Editor’s Desk for a taste of the Venetian’s southern charm. Plantations appear throughout the landscape in Louisiana. Many people associate CHANNING PARFAIT plantations as one of the many icons of the old south. The antebellum homes are known EDITOR for their architectural beauty, but not many people know the stories of the families who lived there. In House Shadows, we learn more about the family who occupied Shadows on the Teche, a plantation along Bayou Teche’s THANK YOU for supporting Chez Nous en banks in New Iberia. Louisiane. As editor, it has been an imporWhile you hold Chez Nous in your hands, tant goal to maintain the stories you find at please be on the lookout for our online verhome in Louisiana, but to also present them in sion of the magazine coming soon. We will a visually appealing way for our readers. With not waste your time with a simple PDF version more pictures, color and attention to detail, I on the web, but each story will have interacam certain this revamped version of our trust- tive graphics and more pictures to help you ed publication will hold your attention. learn more visually about what you have read In this edition, we celebrate the at-home charm and the often-undiscovered truths about popular icons in South Louisiana. This journey begins on our cover page. Many people know nutrias as the creatures that are found dead on side of the road after someone hits them in the dark. But learn in our story, Nutria Tales, that many people celebrate the many uses of nutria through food, clothing and much more. Also in this issue, we stop by Thibodaux’s Venetian Bar and Grill, where they specialize in serving the locals. Many of the waitresses and patrons have occupied the bar and grill for many years, and the environment they have created there is the epitome of South Louisiana hospitality. Don’t be afraid of the “usuals” you’ll find there, dive into our story 2 in our publication. Nutria tales will contain maps of areas populated with the most nutria and recipe cards for those who enjoy cooking the interesting creatures. We will also have an actual Venetian menu and a map of the bar and grill’s location in Thibodaux. You will also be able to scroll through the Week’s family photo album and take a virtual tour of Shadows on the Teche. Again, thanks for reading Chez Nous and being a part of the exciting changes at our publication. We hope you enjoy this issue as mush as we loved telling the stories! pg. 4 Coffe & Chatter What’s Inside? 8 Nutria Tales 12 House pg. pg. Shadows 3 Coffee & Chatter THE Venetian bar & Grill 4 r I SARAH ELIZABETH // Contributing Writer Inside 401 Jackson St. in Thibodaux exists a hangout that hasn’t changed much since the 1930s. Its faded yellow walls have been through it all. Local boys fighting in World War II; teenagers gyrating to rock-and-roll music; men walking on the moon; townspeople gossiping about presidential scandals. Above the cash register a sign reads, “Fresh homemade roast beef, $7 a pint.” But if a new customer mistakenly does not bring cash, one of the waitresses will say this: “You can mop the floors.” The crates of plastic soft drink bottles that line the wall across from the grill and stove are the only indicators of the present. Time has worn away the tiny plaid pattern on the off-white counter top, leaving white splotches. Mismatched stools line the counter top — some are olive green, some are black. A few turquoise ones jump out from the other colors. On those stools sit old friends rather than customers. Behind the counter top, the ladies of Maronge’s Venetian Bar and Grill shuffle back and forth, pouring coffee, grilling hamburgers and conversing with “the usuals.” Lionell is a usual. He’s been eating breakfast at the Venetian since 1967, after he retired from the Army. “I eat here every day, Monday through Friday,” he says casually. “They’re closed on Saturday and Sunday. . . I have to be sick not to come.” A smile appears on Ann Hue’s face, who works behind the coun5 ter. “Sometimes he’s a little grumpy,” she says. “We serve him anyhow.” are filled with liquor bottles, lines of glass Coca-Cola bottles, stacks of yellowed newspapers, decks of cards. Everything is good at the Venetian, Lionell says, but Hanging on the shelves are campaign signs from he just comes for breakfast. “I can’t stand my wife’s local elections; one dates back to 1963. A Nicholls coffee. That’s why I come here.” State banner hangs above the bar, and a sign with a mousetrap reads, “Push the red button to complain,” Lionel speaks with a deep, raspy voice. He sees sits near the cash register. with big, brown-framed glasses and wears a 1944 Thibodaux High School ring. There are a few gaming devices; a pool table with a Budweiser lamp hanging above it. By the window “Burn the biscuit,” he tells the waitresses, because there are a couple of square tables with multi-colored he likes his biscuit toasted. mosaic lamps draping above them. Larry Maronge, owner of the Venetian since 1980, “We don’t have the young crowd like we used to,” has encountered many customers over the years. Larry says. “It’s an old bar. We don’t stay open that Upon seeing Lionel, he says: “That’s the worst one.” late.” “We’re friends - we like to kid each other.” -LIONEL Lilly Hebert has medium-length curly-brown hair The grill opens at 4 a.m. and closes at one in the and rosy cheeks. In between waiting on someone, she afternoon. acts as the pacifier. “I get over here 10 minutes to three to make sure “He’s not that bad,” she reassures. everything is ready to go. I leave at about six, and I But Lionell isn’t insulted in the least by Larry’s sar- come back at about 7:30 and stay here until three. And that’s enough for me.” casm. “We’re friends – we like to kid each other.” Unlike teenagers today, Larry says the bar’s veterThe bar, which opens at 5:30 a.m. in the morning and closes at 3 p.m., is separate from the grill. Along ans limit their drinking due to the threat of driving with the grill, it opened in 1938. A board displaying under the influence tickets. the results of horse races at the New Orleans Fair “It’s not like in the old days. Attitudes have changed.” Grounds used to hang on the wall. Pinball machines and a blackjack table were once there, but not anyLarry bought the Venetian Bar and Grill from its more. original owners, the Italian Bilello brothers, almost 27 years ago. Before then, his grandfather and parents Framed black and white photographs line the had leased the grill from the Bilellos. walls, along with issues of Life magazine with John F. Kennedy and Jackie on the cover. The bar’s shelves “It’s my livelihood,” he says. “And it’s got a lot of his6 tory, too.” He says donuts became too commercialized and his Sicilian family got rid of the machine. But the hamburgers, sandwiches and poboys have stood the test of time. “If I were you, I’d keep my mouth shut,” one of the octogenarian customers taunts at him. Deanna, whose eyes light up when she laughs, says the customers are no trouble. “They pick at me, but it’s just joking.” Between the old men and the women working behind the counter, there is talk about an 86-year-old friend who is in the hospital. A “Get well soon” card is passed around, collecting signatures. The men drink their coffee, reminisce about old times and read the paper. “The same crew comes here every morning,” Lionell says. “Lots of friends.” Behind the counter, the ladies of Maronge’s Venetian Bar and Grill shuffle back and forth, picking up breakfast items and preparing for the lunch crowd. “You meet so many people,” Lilly says. “I enjoy working with the people.” Ann has worked at the Venetian off and on for three Behind the counter, Deanna Ter- years. She comes in when the crew needs the help. racino, whose curly “It lets me get away from home. At home you get blond hair is pinned tired of staring at the four walls. up, cooks meatballs. The guys joke about her throwing one at Lionell. “I should be retired. I’ve been working in this business my whole life,” she says, and then continues wip“He’s scared,” one of the guys teases. The banter ing the counter top. continues. As Larry closes the Venetian for the day, the stools “Free breakfast on Tuesdays?” Lionell inquires, beare empty; no one is behind the counter. cause he has been waiting for his change. The laughter of old friends resonates throughout. Ann, with her short salt and pepper hair and blue Follow the star to W 3rd St. Narrow S t. W 4th St. vd. E k for friendly smiles at the Venetian! t. W 1st S al B l . Rd 401 Jackson St. che Lafour u o y a B Can Ba u yo Jackson St. Photo by Keri Turner Larry still refers to the grill, which does not serve donuts, as the donut shop. “They came out with the first donut machine in Thibodaux,” he declares. “It stayed around until the early 50’s.” sweater, is in the middle of serving another customer. “Hold your horses now,” she tells Lionell. 7 Nutria Tales They’re more than just big rats Dalton joseph Life is good in 1940 for Edward Avery McIlhenny. || Contributing Writer farm where he keeps ducks and cattle, crossbreeding varieties of each to make new types. He even added a new stock to his land two years before, beaver-like creatures called nutria. In addition to his management of the family’s TaThe rodents may be ugly as hell with their large basco Sauce business, M’sieu Ned, as McIlhenny is yellow teeth and rat-like tails. But the fur – the fur called by many, owns a booming bamboo farm on might make McIlhenny a fortune. Avery Island, located between Lafayette and MorOf course, when he bought the creatures for $100 gan City, La. His other exploits include a livestock from farmers in St. Bernard Parish, M’sieu Ned underestimated the time and effort that breeding nutria would take. Those damn rodents breed quickly. In two years’ time, McIlhenny’s nutria increased from 20 to nearly 1,000. Nutria can also naw through almost anything. When they escaped from their enclosures, the nutria devoured practically every kind of vegetation they could get their long teeth on. M’sieu Ned had to reinforce their wooden pen with wire screening, the only thing nutria seemed unable to chew through. And the screens worked for a while – until August 1940 and an unnamed hurricane. M’sieu Ned was as prepared as he could be. He had all his animals sheltered and penned in, fences locked up and screens secured. This was not his or the animals’ first hurricane. Gray clouds blanketed Avery Island, darkening the sky. And then the rain began. Big drops began soaking the land, nearly drowning the vegetation. The wind followed close behind the rain. The 90 mph wind blew the trees and bamboo plants from ly. Such consumption often leaves soil exposed to side to side, yanking branches down every so often, weathering and erosion, damage that has contriband rattling the rafters of every building on the Mc- uted to coastal erosion. Ilhenny Estate. The Nutria Control Program of Louisiana seeks If M’sieu Ned had thought to check up on his live- to help eradicate the nutria problem in the state. Of stock before the wind got too strong, he might have the approximately 400 people enrolled in the proseen the frightened creatures sensing the wind and gram, about 320 are nutria trappers, says Edmond bad weather. He might have noticed that the fenc- Mouton, the biologist program manager of Louisiing was shaking with every gust of wind, threaten- ana Wildlife and Fisheries. ing to loosen entirely. And he might have glimpsed Nutria trapping used to be a profitable career for the wiring of the nutria pen tearing at the enclosure, many: “Back at the turn of the century, even as late or the creatures pushing past each other to escape. as the 1970s, there was quite a bit of money in trapHe might have seen the rodents scampering away ping,” Mouton says. Nutria were considered valuin every direction, motivated either by fear of the able for their fur, their meat and the use of their wind or the excitement of freedom, or both. excess parts for livestock feed. However, in the late He might have seen all of this, and he might even 70s “the number of trappers started to fall, demand have been able to stop them in the midst of the for fur started to fall and nutria prices dropped. storm. People quit trapping nutria and the population ex- “There’s two things them nutria don’t like: that rifle and that stick.” -Vernon Naquin But M’sieu Ned, sheltered in his sturdy home, ploded,” Mouton explains. was entirely unaware. Like trappers in the early 20th century, modern Interesting story, except for one small problem. trappers use nutria trapping as a secondary source It’s not true. But more on that later. for income. Trappers in the control program “are Nutria became free to consume any and all vegpaid $5 for every tail they turn in,” Mouton says. etation they encountered. And they bred at remark“It’s not what it used to be by any means.” able rates in the marshes. And since then, they have Chris Areas, one trapper who has received help been a factor in problems to Louisiana marshlands and challenges for both trappers and environmen- from the Nutria Control Program, continues his family’s nutria trapping tradition in St. Bernard talists. Parish. Areas, who learned how to trap from his Environmentally, nutria have damaged thougrandfather, bought old traps and inherited other sands of acres of Louisiana’s wetlands, referred to equipment from his father. He believes trapping as the “nutria ground zero” by Dr. Shane Bernard, is the best method for eradicating nutria, because historian and curator of McIlhenny Co. and Avshooting drives the creatures into hiding. ery Island, Inc. Because the nutria’s diet consists of Vernon Naquin of Houma makes his living by greenery, the rodents thrive on Louisiana’s indigenous vegetation. They generally eat plants at the trapping nutria in the fall and winter, and shrimping stem bases and roots, killing the entire plant quick- in the spring and summer. “It’s an everyday thing; if you got a job, you can’t go do no nutrias,” Naquin 9 they ain’t worth nothing: $2. If I wouldn’t know how to skin ‘em like I do, I wouldn’t fool with it. There used to be good money in the furs, but those days are over.” Designers Cree McCree and Billy Reid argue that the days for good money in nutria fur are certainly not over. Both have utilized the fur as a fashionable means of using nutria that might otherwise go to waste. “I think we need to honor the animal by using the animal, not just killing it,” McCree observes. McCree is the founder of Righteous Fur, a non profit organization that seeks to raise awareness about coastal erosion caused by nutria. In 2011, Righteous Fur received a grant from the BaratariaTerrebonne National Estuary Program (BTNEP) to help produce and promote McCree’s fashion line. explains. Nearly 50 years of nutria trapping has literally paid off for Naquin: “I’ve been doing good with the trapping lately ... in the last two years.” Then, with a laugh, he says, “I work them traps and I work that rifle and the weather gets right ... I’m going at ‘em.” 10 Billy Reid, an Amite-born resident of Alabama, presented his latest nutria fur fashion during New York Fashion Week in January. “If there’s such a thing as manly fur, nutria is it. I was duck hunting in Mississippi when it occurred to me. I know what it’s doing to the wetlands, so we should do something with this,” Reid says. He got started in trapping when he was nine While nutria fur finds its place in the fashion inyears old. “A friend of mine’s daddy was doing that and I kind of liked it,” Naquin says. “I catch a lot of dustry, most of the nutria becomes livestock feed. A couple of people, however, have turned nutria meat nutria in the traps: that’s my specialty.” into nutritious food for domestic animals. Hansel “Okay, mister nutria ...” Naquin calls out right beHarlan, a Baton Rouge attorney, and his sister, Veni, fore he makes a kill, smacking one behind the head are the owners of Marsh Dog, a company that prowith a short wooden plank. He removes it quickly cesses nutria meat into dog food. As a dog owner, from his trap, explaining, “What you’ve got to do is Harlan was concerned about the quality of his dog’s hurry up and get them out of the way, so they don’t food: “With constant food recalls, harmful foreign bleed” into the marsh. Naquin uses a combination ingredients and multiple allergens, I didn’t comof clubbing and shooting to land kills. “There’s two pletely trust what was available so I began researchthings them nutria don’t like: that rifle and that ing and experimenting,” Harlan explains. Nutria stick,” Naquin says. “Now I love shooting ‘em; that’s meat is “high in protein and low in fat,” Michael the fun part. But you can’t shoot ‘em all the time Massimi, invasive species coordinator for BTNEP, ... why put the traps when you’re gonna chase ‘em says. And because nutria consume organic, horaway from your traps?” mone- free plants, their meat is free of the artificial Part of Naquin’s trapping job is skinning the ani- hormones often fed to sheep and cattle, the primary mals. “I’m pretty quick at skinning ‘em. I average meats in dog food, Harlan further explains. about one nutria a minute.” Naquin explains that Though not seemingly popular, nutria meat for fur trading and prices used to be more profitable. human consumption remains a reality in some But he would not even bother skinning if the price places. Edward “Fuzzy” Hertz, a retired trapper for fur had not increased in the last year: “If you and former owner of Fuzzy’s Bar in Lafitte, enjoys know how to skin ‘em, you can sell the hide. [But] eating nutria meat. He and his family began eating it after years of trapping. “The meat was so pretty,” Hertz says. So they began barbequing, frying, and stewing nutria meat. were seen in New Orleans gutters. Nutria, at this point, were being publicized as a nuisance species. Within days ... our efforts to sustain a nutria market were shot down,” Parola laments. Despite the loss, Also championing nutria meat is Chef Philippe Parola firmly believes in the health benefits of nuParola, an award-winning French chef. Parola be- tria meat for the public. gan a promotional campaign with the Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries to market nutria meat because it is organic. “During the campaign, my friends and great Chefs Daniel Bonnot, Susan Spicer and John Besh helped convince a majority of consumers that nutria meat is very high in protein, low in fat and actually healthy to eat,” Parola says. The campaign put on events that highlighted dishes using nutria meat. “With the help of Mr. Noel Kinler and Edmond Mouton of Wildlife and Fisheries, our group cooked nutria stews, nutria soups, roasted nutria, and grilled nutria at many functions. One particular event at Bizou Restaurant on St. Charles Avenue in New Orleans featured a nutria dinner and a nutria-fur coat fashion show where 300 happy guests arrived to eat nutria prepared by Chefs Spicer, Bonnot and myself,” Parola explains. This campaign experienced a couple of setbacks, however: the USDA did not approve nutria meat for the market and police began using nutria for shooting practice. After this, “local media reported nutria As mentioned earlier, that popular story about a hurricane freeing the nutria in the 1940s is, in fact, just that: a story. McIlhenny intentionally released his nutria into the wild in 1945. Regardless of how much or how little blame falls on M’sieu Ned, one thing is clear: there is forever a connection between the McIlhenny name and that pesky rodent in the history of these animals and Louisiana. 11 12 House COLBY GERARD // Contributing Writer More than 30 trunks sat stored side by side on the third floor of the Weeks’ family home. Seventeen thousand letters, receipts and invoices spanning nearly 180 years, along with three generations of clothing are packed away. Stories of births, deaths, slaves and Civil War experiences are just some of the events detailed, documenting the Weeks’ family life during the 19th century at the Shadows on the Teche, an antebellum plantation sitting on Bayou Teche’s banks in New Iberia. In addition to supplying the public with knowledge about the home and its family, these documents guided William Weeks Hall, its final resident and fourth-generation family member, in his 1923 restoration of the antebellum residence. At the time, it was one of the first private restorations of a southern home. Besides D.W. Griffith’s 1923 filming of “The White Rose” on the property, Hall tried to enhance the Shadows’ importance nationwide by hosting notable people such as film producers Walt Disney, Cecil DeMille and Elia Kazan, and country singer and actor Tex Ritter. “They, in turn, would use The Shadows as the basis for their essays, as a setting for their fiction and as a background for their movies,” Marcell writes. “Weeks [Hall] hoped [this publicity] would serve to make The Shadows indispensable to the cultural life of the nation.” His efforts were rewarded when the National Trust for Historic Preservation informed him of the house’s acceptance on June 26, 1958, as he lay on his deathbed. The 63 year old died the next day. 13 S Since 1961, the home, which ranks among the most photographed properties in the South has provided visitors with an example of 19th century Louisiana living. It offers tourists a view of the 2.5 acres where the house—constructed between 1831 and 1834—and its surrounding gardens sit. These are the only remains of the nearly 150 acres Louisiana sugar planter David Weeks purchased in 1825. Weeks would never live in the house he built, however, succumbing to an undisclosed illness in August 1834 while seeking treatment in New Haven, Conn. While David Weeks had become an established sugarcane farmer at the time of his death, he faced the challenge of growing a plant accustomed to the Caribbean islands’ tropical environment in south Louisiana’s semi-tropical climate, which has a shorter growing season. Although this new climate could hurt the crop, the region’s bayous and rivers provided rich soils, which served as natural drainage systems and provided transportation routes. This helped to maximize the industry’s profits. Located along Vermillion Bay 12 miles south of The Shadows, the family’s sugar plantation, Grand Côte (now known as Weeks Island), provided these characteristics. The crops harvested at the St. Mary Parish plantation could be transported from the bay to the Gulf of Mexico before being sent to sugar markets such as New Orleans, Mobile, Charleston, Savannah, Baltimore, New York and Philadelphia. After his death in 1834, Weeks’ wife, Mary, managed Grand Côte in addition to caring for her six children, the family’s 150 slaves and The Shadows. At the plantation, Mary’s brothers aided her in overseeing the production of sugarcane — south Louisiana’s most prized crop — on land 14 considered some of the most valuable and fertile. Following their 1841 marriage, Judge John Moore, a U.S. congressman, also assisted Mary in the plantation’s operation. Prior to the Civil War, the family experienced some of its most successful harvesting seasons. In the 1850s, Grand Côte was a regional leader in sugarcane production. Additionally, the plantation produced more than 459,000 hogsheads — barrels holding between 800-1,200 pounds of sugar. From 1861-1862, it was the largest supplier at the time. While the Weeks were prospering in 1861, potential trouble was brewing. In January, John Moore helped adopt Louisiana’s Ordinance of Secession. Louisiana left the Union before February arrived. More trouble followed in mid-1862, more than a year after the war began, as both Confederate and Union troops had begun disrupting sugar planters’ lives, destroying homes. The destruction reached Mary Moore’s friends, who lived along Bayou Lafourche, before infiltrating the Teche that fall. Patricia Kahle writes in “Shadows-on-the-Teche,” “...as the harvesting of the sugar crop got under way, residents of the Teche country saw not only the familiar cane carts, but also carts loaded down with trunks containing the belongings of planters fleeing the Bayou Lafourche region and lower Teche country in front of the advancing Federal army.” In June 1863, Mary’s children, William, Charles and Harriet Weeks Meade, along with their families, all left The Shadows as the Union troops moved closer to the region. Charles Weeks evacuated to DeSoto Parish in northwest Louisiana, while Harriet Meade and William Weeks retreated to Texas. As overseer of Grand Côte, William Weeks thought Texas would be a safe area for his slaves, because he didn’t think the state would be invaded. the property from confiscation and greater damage.” As the summer of 1863 ended, John Moore also fled The Shadows, avoiding the approaching Union troops. Following the Civil War, William Weeks and his family, and John Moore returned to the home. While the house was not destroyed, the fences and other structures on property were torn down because they were valuable fuel sources. “The movement of the Federal and Confederate armies,” Kahle writes, “curtailed travel, and she [Mary] rarely saw or heard from members of her family. For Mary, ‘everything seems so changed.’” In November 1863, the Union soldiers arrived at the house, using the three-story Greek and Classic Revival styled home as its temporary headquarters while protecting New Iberia. According to Kahle, the troops considered the town “an important point along their communication and supply lines.” The soldiers used the first floor and surrounding grounds while the remaining family members lived on the second and third floors. “To the commander in chief, or any officer—we appeal to you as gentlemen to protect us against the outrages and annoyances of your men,” Mary Moore wrote the Union forces in the fall of 1863. “We are alone having no gentlemen with us. Please send us a guard.” During the Union army’s stay, Mary was ill; however, she prayed that her husband and children would be safe, imagining the time they would all be reunited at the war’s conclusion. Although life was challenging, Mary refused to pledge loyalty to the United States. “My husband and children shall never know that mortification,” she proclaimed. On Dec. 28, 1863, Mary Moore received a letter from her husband, informing her he was fine, brightening her spirits so that she could “laugh at the Yankees,” Kahle writes. That evening, she fell asleep reading a new novel. She never awakened. Her oldest son William later wrote: “...she was apparently asleep, but alas, the vital spark was extinguished, the body cold and lifeless. Her candle had burned out and the book was still in her hand.” The Union soldiers buried her in a section of her garden that later became the family cemetery. A few weeks later, the Union army left the house. Kahle: “Her refusal to abandon her home probably saved Visit Shadows on the Teche Open 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tours start 15 mins. past the hour. Although they now lived at The Shadows, the William Weeks’ family stayed at Grand Côte during the sugar grinding period. But things were different now. Land that had been prosperous for sugar farming prior to the war only supplied 18,000 barrels during the 1864-1865 harvest. The climate adjustments that caused David Weeks’ problems when sugar production began at the beginning of the 19th century paled in comparison to the new problems: devastated mills, natural disasters and developing working relationships with free slaves. Between the 1870s and the 1890s, The Shadows and its fences were repaired while trees and shrubbery were planted. A new cistern was also built. Despite these improvements, the house began deteriorating during the last five years of the 19th century, a little more than a year after Hall’s birth. While the Weeks’ family papers were a reference for the National Trust in its 1983 restoration of the home, the papers are no longer stored at the home. They are now kept at Louisiana State University’s archives. Although these trunks no longer sit on the house’s third floor, their stories coupled with the restored home continue to provide valuable insight into a period that is gone, but not forgotten. As Kahle said: “Preserving more than a house, more than just a portrait, more than just a faded letter, we are preserving a link with our past, to help us and future generations understand who and where we are by understanding who and where we were.” AVAILABLE May 24 TARGET WAL-MART BEST BUY