docApril 2012 - Ross Duke Wine Company
download 
Report Transcription
April 2012 - Ross Duke Wine Company
More Bulles CLOS ING DATE MAY 25TH Ross Duke Wine Company April, 2012 More 'Bulles' (more bubbles) April 2012 exclusive offer Offer Closes: May 25th – Shipment Due: End Of May INDEX PAGE Foreword by Ross Duke 2 Benard-Pitois 3 Tarlant 4–5 Eric Rodez - Ambonnay 6-7 Marc Hebrart - Mareuil-sur-Ay 8-9 Jacky Charpentier 10 Jacques Lassaigne – Montgueux 11 – 12 Claude Cazals 13 Le Brun Servenay & Champagne Discovery Packs 14 Order Form 15 - 16 Prices quoted in this catalogue are landed pre-arrival prices. All prices are per 750ml bottle unless otherwise stated. Prices, description and availability are subject to change without notice. Ross Duke Wine Company Pty Ltd. Suite 309, 63 Stead Street, South Melbourne. 3205 TEL: (03) 9696 7920 FAX: (03) 9696 8703 Orders email: [email protected] General enquiries: [email protected] Website: www.frenchwinecentre.com 1 More 'Bulles' Foreword Hi everyone from La Belle France, I have been busy visiting many of our Champagne Growers ahead of the start of the Grands Jours de Bourgogne (bi-annual wine tasting event in Burgundy). The situation in Champagne is getting more exciting each time I visit. The Champagne des Vigneron are gaining in confidence of their growing market. More importantly their exploitation of the 'terroir' of the Champagne region, embraced with organic and biodynamic clutter, is challenging the entire Champagne philosophy of the Grands Marc; where house style dominates. Well, I can tell you that the base wines of the Champagne des Vigneron have such depth of character and flavour. They are expressed by identification of more successful vineyard sites, that it is just common sense that better base wines prevail. When the bubbles go in the Champagne the result is enhanced immeasurably. It is not going to stop there and we will see a higher quality of Champagne as a result. The Grands Jours de Bourgogne began in Chablis, but I must say it was a poor start as many of the 2009 and 2010 wines did not taste like Chablis! The warmer weather that occurred dissipated the mineral and flinty edge that is REAL Chablis and Chardonnay, resulting in something similar to Margaret River or even the Napa Valley. However our growers, Seguinot-Bordet and Millet, picked early to ensure that the real Chablis prevailed. I did find 2-3 other that followed this pattern and you will hear about them soon. The Grands Jours then moved to the Cote d'Or where excellent wines were tasted, mainly from the 2010 vintage plus a few tank samples of 2011. Both vintages showed up excellently and I came away with the feeling that 2010 was better in 'terroir' and quality than 2009. 2011 is quite similar to 2010. This was the case for both red and white wines. Altogether a successful Grands Jours! Following the Grands Jours I visited Rapet, Digioia-Royer, Thibaut Liger-Belair, D'Angerville, Pierre Amiot and Clos des Lambrays to conduct barrel tasting for both 2010 and 2011 (more about this later). Following these visits I headed for the Rhone Valley and what a visit this was. The new generation of winemakers in the Rhone valley are having an enormous impact upon the wine-making and viticulture of the entire region. Importantly, they have re-discovered the 'terroir' and history of their landscape which covers 3-6 million years. The profusion of earthquakes, glacial collapses, floods, droughts and warm cycles. At one point the entire region from Marseilles to Valence was under water for centuries. All of this created a huge mix of various soils, micro-climates and meso-climates that is now being exploited by these energetic and committed young vignerons. My extensive tasting of these newcomers was one of the most exciting and challenging experiences I have had for many years. I look forward to introducing these incredible vinous results in a few months’ time. You will be knocked out, just as I was with this outcome. Watch this space! This current offer brings to the fore Vic's 'Champagne de Vigneron' selections and what a selection it is. Your interest in growers Champagne is now well established. We appreciate the many emails, faxes and phone calls congratulating us on our commitment to these fine Champagne's. The genii is well and truly out of the bottle as so many of you express to us that Grand Marc Champagne does not compare with our range of 'Champagne de Vigneron'. This catalogue will drive a further nail into that coffin!! Finally, thank you for your great support of the latest 'Pick & Mix' offer. Those that bought single bottles early of many wines to then order larger quantities before the offer closed won the day. We were thrilled with the overall result of the entire offer, as many wines sold out very quickly. Keep on tasting to discover new growers, villages and regions that, perhaps, was not possible with our 3 bottle standard minimum. Your response is taken on board and we have a further offer in mind. That's it for now as I continue my visits to all of our growers. Oh! I forgot to mention my visit to Alsace to see Arnaud Baur to taste their delicious range of wines. A few surprises are in store for another 'special' offer this year.Well that's it for me until I arrive back home. In the meantime please consult Sarah, Adam or Eve for any question or order you may require and I am sure they will look after you handsomely. If something is required for comment by me they will also send your request to me for my reply. Vic is off to Champagne and Burgundy in a few days to do his usual work and I am sure he will uncover some more gems for us all. My best to you all, Ross 2 BENARD-PITOIS Mareuil-sur-Ay -Marne Valley 10 hectares This Mareuil-sur-Ay producer is a sweet spot for excellent value authentic Champagnes from nearly Grand Cru vineyards – 99%. Laurent Benard has 10 ha of vineyards (3ha of which he sells to Bollinger and Pol Roger) spreading across prestigious Cote des Blancs Grand Crus and also Marne Valley 1er Crus, consisting of Chardonnay 16%, Pinot Meunier 17% and Pinot Noir 67%. Vineyards in Mareuil-sur-Ay, Mutigny, Avenay Val d'Or, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Bergeres les Vertus, with Reconstituted Grape Must (RCGM) being used for the ‘liqueur de dosage’ in favour of sugar. Use of sympathetic oak fermentation and maturation for the Chardonnay components of the various cuvees. A prestigious array of vineyards allows Laurent to produce an impressive range of terroir focused wines with only a hint of subtle oak allowed to add complexity and elegance. He vinifies his different vineyard parcels in small tanks which gives him better control of selecting his final blends. After many experiments he only uses reconstituted grape must for /dosage. This year we will be tasting some specially disgorged wines in order to design a cuvee just for us. Benard-Pitois NV Brut Reserve 1er Cru Blend of 40% CH and 60% Pinot Noir, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Mareuil-sur-Ay and Mutigny from 2007 and 2008. The Chardonnay has been vinified in oak barriques. Has some very elegant smoke, spice and richness with nice acid and pin point mousse. A very complex style with nuances of apricot, dried fruits, brioche and a hint of white truffle. Laurent Benard allows the subtle micro-oxygenation of the oak to impart a hint of brioche and smoke. Lovely structure with great red fruit intensity and weight. A bargain and a great favourite last year. Dosages are always low – in balance with the toasty minerality. This unique Champagne is receiving some great accolades in the press. $43.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 3529 Tyson Stelzer – Champagne Guide 2012... A wine of power and definition that captures the intensity and structure of the majestic pinot noir of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. There is a zesty edge of lemon offset by the complexity of brioche, freshly baked biscuits, ginger and a hint of lingering white pepper. Concentrated and poised, it's dry, clean and long, with a fine, creamy bead and a chalky, salty minerality. Great value. 94 Points 3 TARLANT Oeuilly - Marne Valley 13 hectares Vignerons since 1687, who now, under the guidance of Benoit Tarlant, are producing an impressive array of terroir driven wines. Careful use of barrel fermentation allows Benoit to create a range of elegant but complex wines from the three classic varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Oeuilly is 10km west of Epernay on the main N3 road to Dormans – in the Marne Valley – quite high up, looking over the Marne river. 13 Hectares are divided into diverse soil types: Chalk, Limestone, Sand, Gravel and Sparnacien which is a blend of clay and chalk. Average age of the vines is 29 years with the ratio being Pinot Noir 50%, Chardonnay 30% and Pinot Meunier 20%. Benoit is very fastidious about the quality of his grapes and the subsequent juice. Traditionally in Champagne you are allowed to press 2,550 litres of juice from 4,000 kg of grapes. This is split into various quality components which may or may not be used by the grower and maybe sold off. He carefully monitors the juice from the 1st pressing known as the ‘cuvée’ and splits this into two components, ‘cuvée A’ and ‘cuvée B’. When he is no longer happy with the quality – he stops pressing then and there. He is not interested in pressing further to produce a second pressing and not interested in vinifying it and then selling it off to the big houses. Often he only obtains 1400-1600 litres of usable juice from the 4,000 kg. He then combines the various A and B components to achieve his cuvée blend. Dosages are kept low with the average being 6g/litre. Vinification is partly in stainless steel and small oak barriques from Burgundy. Malolactic fermentation is blocked in all of the cuvées to add some freshness and acidity. The back label is always a masterpiece of technique description as Benoit goes to great lengths to explain the vineyard, when and how the grapes were picked, disgorgement dates and dosage. There is no margin for error. Benoit exposes all! 4 Tarlant NV Brut Nature Zero Blend of 1/3 each of CH, PN and PM, from 2006 and reserve wines with no added dosage. An intense aromatic style, with hints of grapefruit, minerals, smoke and real purity. There is honey and brioche on a very very long palate. Very approachable and just so perfectly balanced. The mousse is ultra-fine and persistent. Has amazing richness with weight and complexity and in a masked line up it is difficult to detect that this is a Brut Zero. Critics agree that this is the ‘benchmark’ Brut Zero. Always a speciality of Benoit and one of his favourites. This single cuvee makes up more than 75% of the total Tarlant production – massively popular! Regularly acclaimed as being a perfect food match and features in many Michelin starred restaurants. $50.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 3535 Tarlant Cuvee Louis Blend of 1998 + 1997-1996 from 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from a single vineyard "Les Crayons" in Oeuilly Soil is chalk and 60 year old vines. Vinified and fermented in barrel with regular stirring of the lees. Bottled in May of each year. Dosage: 3 g/L – Extra-Brut. The richness and intensity of the old vines is a major feature in this special wine. The colour is a golden yellow, fine subtle mousse. The nose reveals oak, dried fruits and citrus. The palate is rich and complex, with hints of honey and real length. An amazing special occasion wine requiring some great food to accompany it. $72.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 4127 5 ERIC RODEZ Ambonnay– Grand Cru Montagne de Reims - 6 hectares Eric Rodez is the eighth generation of family growing grapes in the prestigious pinot noir producing Grand Cru village of Ambonnay. He is a true artisan of his trade who is focused on the art of terroir, old vines, oak integration and control of malo-lactic fermentation. Eric speaks of the five dimensions of Champagne that shape its style and character. Cépage, location, vineyard aspect, vinification and fermentation. All the above combined, totally determine the style and quality of the final result. He has lots of old vines all with premium exposure at mid-slope. Subtle use of small Burgundian oak and control of malolactic fermentation allows Eric to create a brilliant range of terroir driven Champagnes. The 6 ha property is divided into 35 plots of only Grand Cru vines split roughly 55/45 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Eric worked in Burgundy, Beaujolais and the Rhone for three years during his youth, and also worked for a year at Krug. Eric's mayor duties keep him busy – but it appears that the cat is out of the bag – Jancis Robinson and other MW's have discovered Eric Rodez! Now we see his wines in the UK and US. ‘I don’t take pleasure in making champagne, I take pleasure in making an extra-ordinary wine from Champagne’ Burgundy taught him much about oak fermentation and maturation and his work with Henri Krug re-enforced his ideas even further. Now 80% of Eric’s wines are matured in some sort of oak for various periods. Dosages are light – between 58gm/litre - and he uses RCGM not sugar. No fertilisers, herbicides or insecticides are used. And yes, like all villages in France, some one as to be the mayor of Ambonnay! Since 1989 Eric has systematically taken major steps to improve the health and quality of his vineyard. No longer does he use weed killers or chemical fertilisers. The long-term sustainability of the health of the soil is paramount. Eric has decided to move to full biodynamic viticulture. Also he has a new Cuvée for us – a complex and smoky Brut Zero! The other good news at Champagne Rodez is that Eric's son Michael is quickly gaining experience and knowledge to take over the property in the future. We spoke to Michael during the 2011 harvest and were astonished at his level of maturity, knowledge and passion - the 'family property' is in safe hands! Even our friend Francis Boulard got a chance to visit Eric Rodez with a group of amateur aficionados 'Yes Victor, great wine at Eric Rodez cellar ... not well-known in the French wine guides and magazines ... that's the reason, it was our first visit there, this year, for our knowledge'. Eric Rodez 'Cuvée des Crayeres' Grand Cru A blend of 45% Chardonnay and 55% Pinot Noir, from five different vintages, 50% of which is from 2007, then 2006, 2005, 2004 and 2002. 25% is matured in small oak and 80% undergoes malo-lactic fermentation. A feature of Eric's wines is the intense, minute persistent mousse. Always gently foaming with a tiny bead. Chalk and white flowers on the nose, lovely citrus and red fruits on the long palate. Powerfull and complex but still light on its feet – this is a wonderfull introduction to the Rodez style. Dosage is a low 6g/litre. Demand from restaurants is high for this cuvee – so we may have to ration quantities for this pre-arrival offer. $54.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 3530 6 Tyson Stelzer – Champagne Guide 2012... 2012 'Organic viticulture has become something of a catch cry in the modern wine world, but never have I seen a more profound statement of its impact than in Eric Rodez’s magnificently positioned vineyard of 6.5ha on the glorious mid-slopes slopes of Ambonnay. Standing on the edge of his rows of vines, he showed me tiny bunches, and not many of them. In the very next row, not more than a metre away, his neighbour’s vines were loaded ed with full-sized full sized bunches. The fanatical approach of this eighth generation winegrower permeates every detail of his work, which embraces vinification in barriques, light dosages and a colossal resource of reserve wines spanning twenty years. The aspiration aspirati for Rodez is to let the salty minerality and generous expression of his vines sing through every cuvée. And sing they do.' Looking down from the forest across Ambonnay vineyards. Eric Rodez Brut Zero Grand Cru This new cuvee is similarly structured to the Crayeres with 70% Pinot and 30% Chardonnay. On a much older base of 2004 and reserve wines from 2003, 2002 and 2000. Dense and powerfull – the red fruits are nicely balanced by the chalky citrus of the Chardonnay. A step up in complexity,, and richness but all carefully balanced by the added crispness of no dosage. 80% has been vinified in oak and the malo is blocked for about 50% of the final blend. This sold out quickly late last year and Eric has been generous in giving us another smalll allocation of this sensational wine! Tyson Stelzer in his great 2012 Champagne Guide waxes lyrical about all the Eric Rodez Champagnes but this cuvee is Tyson's favourite. 6 bottle limit per customer. $58.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 2312 Tyson Stelzer – Champagne Guide 2012 'Goodness gracious, so this is what zero dosage champagne is all about! Now I get it. It shows what can be achieved with this style if enough thought is put into it. Read the recipe above and marvel, because this wine completelyy turns the zero dosage style on its head. While most others vinify taut, young fruit in stainless steel and soften it with malolactic, Rodez ingeniously blends a tremendous depth of old wines vinified and aged in barrel from his wonderfully rich Ambonnay fruit and kisses it with the lightest touch of malolactic. The purity that he achieves is game-changing, game changing, with remarkable carry and definition of yellow plums, white peaches, cherries, even honey, and not a hint of oak, pulling dynamically into a linear, honed honed tail that carries long into the finish. And then, its most spectacular stunt of all: breathtakingly deep-set, deep set, salty minerality that darts and flickers long into the finish. Last year I didn’t award 96 points to a single champagne under $100. This wine trumps them all.' 96/100 7 MARC HEBRART Mareuil-sur-Ay – 1er Cru Mareuil Marne Valley - 14 hectares Jean-Paul Paul Hebrart runs this property and is one of the super growers in this very much under-rated rated village. Mareuil-sur-Ay Mareuil Ay is rated at 99% right next door to Ay. There are many experts who believe it deserves true 100% Grand Cru status. It is home to Billecart-Salmon Salmon and the the also the famous Philipponnat "Clos des Goisses” vineyard at the extreme eastern end. The style here is similar to Ay but with maybe a little more minerality and finesse. Jean-Paul Jean Paul has some great Chardonnay in Chouilly and Oiry with a very high average vine vine age. Quality is at a very high level, to the extent that Jean-Paul Paul used to supply grapes to Bollinger. Annual production from 13.5 ha of vines has decided to is 90,000 bottles, but this will thankfully increase now that Jean-Paul Jean stop selling grapes and and bottle his entire production. Global demand for these great wines has forced Jean-Paul Jean Paul to do this and now we are getting some increased allocations of these superb wines. Jean-Paul Paul is married to Isabelle Diebolt – daughter of Jacques Diebolt - one of tthe truly great growers in Cramant. The vineyards are spread across Ay, Mareuil-sur-Ay, Mareuil Ay, Avenay Val d'Or, Bisseuil and also some prestigious Grand Cru Chardonnay vineyards in Chouilly and Oiry on the other side of the Marne. Dosages are low and the terroir iss allowed to shine. He is also a member of the ‘Club de Tresors’ and produces a sensational ‘Special Club’ Cuvée. The final offer last year featuring the Marc Hebrart Champagnes was so popular popular that many wines sold out quickly. This year we are fortunate to receive another allocation on top of our normal allocation – including a new cuvee – so finally we have a little more wine to share around. Marc Hebrart NV Cuvée Reserve 1er Cru 80% Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay, Ay, Avenay Val d’Or and Bisseuil and 20% Chardonnay from Oiry and Chouilly. A blend of 2008 and older reserve wines - all from vineyards with an average age of 24 years. This rests on lees (sur lattes) for 24-30 24 months. Dosage 8g/litre. The style le here is for purity and elegance. There are delightful piercing citrus and floral overtones – with just a hint of hazelnut and strawberries. The palate is perfectly balanced with a super intense mousse, cleansing acid on the long palate. An excellent aperitif ritif-food style. Drinks way above its very humble price. Typical of the elegant terroir of Mareuil-sur-Ay. $39.50/bt Pre-arrival Code: 3534 Marc Hebrart NV Cuvée Blanc de Blancs 90% Grand Cru Chardonnay from Chouilly and Oiry, with the remainder from Mareuil. A blend of 2008 and older reserve wines all from vineyards with an average age of 24 years. This rests on lees (sur lattes) for 24-30 30 months. Dosage 8g/litre. This has the citrus with piercing minerality – all white fruits but with zesty intensity – stunning Chardonnay and always in very limited supply!! A new cuvee for us and only a small allocation– allocation be quick! $41.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 2332 tinged gold. Stony, mineral-accented mineral accented lemon and quince aromas are precise and TANZER REVIEW Green-tinged intensely spicy. Sappy orange and Meyer lemon flavours show very good depth and a pliant, silky texture, with a hint of anise emerging on the back end. The silky, spice-accented spice nted finish offers appealing ripeness and very good breadth. - Tanzer (Jan/Feb 2012) 92/100 8 Marc Hebrart NV Cuvée Selection 1er Cru 35% Chardonnay 65% Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay,and Mareuil onnay from Oiry and Chouilly. 62% from 2007 and 38% % from 2006. This is a different vineyard mix than the Reserve – more older vines. With one year extra on lees we have more weight and creamy complex white fruits. Less minerality and citrus than the reserve – weight and real length – more of a food style than the reserve. serve. Very much in demand and this cuvee sold out quickly in last years offer. Limited. $42.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 2323 Pre TANZER REVIEW: 65% pinot noir and 35% Chardonnay; 62% of the wine is from 2007 and the rest from 2006): Pale gold. Spice-accented Spice accented pear and blood orange aromas, with a touch of honey emerging with aeration. Silky and open-knit, open knit, offering very good depth and energy to its ripe orchard fruit and nd candied citrus flavours. Notes of jasmine and chamomile emerge with air and linger on the juicy finish. Tanzer (Jan/Feb 2012) 92/100 Marc Hebrart NV Cuvée Rosé 1er Cru 50% Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Ay, Ay, Avenay Val d’Or and Bisseuil, 50% Chardonnay from Oiry and Chouilly. 50% from 2007 and 50% from 2006. – This rosé is made by addition of 10% red wine from Mareuil-sur-Ay Mareuil from the great 2004 vintage which has been aged in small oak barriques. Dosage 6.5g/litre. This is a sublime cuvée which Jean-Paul has only sold in Jean France and Japan. The Japanese take more than half of his entire rosé production and in fact, they love their rosé so much, that often they order their rosé and have it air-freighted freighted immediately! $42.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 5722 9 JACKY CHARPENTIER Marne Valley 13.5 hectares Family vignerons for 3 generations with 13.5 hectares 15km west of Epernay covering Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay spread across Villers-sous-Chatillon, Le Breuil, Verneuil, Reuil, Chatillon-sur-Marne and Binson Orquigny. 65% is sold direct to clients in France and the remainder exported across Europe. Vignerons for many generations who sold their entire production to the big houses. Then in 1954 they decided to take full control and bottle the entire production themselves. Vinification is in stainless steel, large 600 litre oak barrels and small oak barriques. This is Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir territory. All the big houses source their Pinot Meunier from the villages on the northern side of the Marne river. The style here is for vinosity and elegance. Jacky Charpentier NV Prestige Brut 60% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. From old vines 2007 and 2006 reserve wines. Aromas of dried fruits and almonds with hints of white flowers. A very powerful and complex cuvée with mineral and vinous characteristics beautifully counter balanced by richer creamier red fruits. The Chardonnay component adds a hint of elegance and finesse. Perfect as an aperitif or with seafood and white meats. We tried sample bottles of this over a few days and were impressed with is seamless structure, complexity, intensity and finesse. The bottle is the classic Prestige white ‘Fleur’ design. Complex and persistent with perfect balance and mouth filling weight and length. The Pinot Noir portion is matured in large oak barrels giving this cuvée overtones of a mini Krug. Dosage 7g/litre. A popular Champagne and doesn't hang around for long. $48.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 3626 Jacky Charpentier NV Prestige Brut Rose 60% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. From old vines 2007 and 2006 reserve wines. This is similar in overall make-up to the superb ‘Prestige’ but with the addition of 10% red wine from Villers-sous-Chatillon (50/50 Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier). Very much a mouth filling rich style – with forest floor, strawberries, cherries and smoke overtones – hints of sour cherries. Can be used as an aperitif but much better with grilled salmon, crispy quail or even Peking Duck! Again some large oak is used for the Pinot Noir portion. Dosage 8.5g/l. A truly elegant yet mineral pink! $49.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 5738 10 JACQUES LASSAIGNE Montgueux – 1e Cru Aube - 4 hectares Montgueux is a remarkable wine region – totally unique in its structural make-up. Classified as being in the ‘Cote des Bars’ region which can be often further colloquially known as the ‘Aube’ – but in fact it has little in common with that Pinot Noir producing area. Montgueux is a tiny hill of pure chalk 100kms south of Epernay-12 kms north west of Troyes. The oenologist Daniel Thibaut from Charles Heidsieck described Montgueux as ‘the Montrachet of the Champagne country’ with 186 hectares of vines planted to 85% Chardonnay with a perfect south easterly aspect. Top soils with a depth of 1 metre and chalk to a depth of 60 metres. The chalk here has numerous outcrops of silex – adding to the spicy mineral complexities of the wines. The soils here are 13 million years old–very much older than the Grand Cru Cote des Blancs. All of these elements combined allow for perfect ripening with appropriate levels of moisture in the chalky soils. More than 50% of the grapes are sold to the likes of Charles Heidsieck, Piper Heidsieck, Louis Roederer, Nicolas Feuillate and other large growers. The big houses are happy to pay high prices for Montgueux grapes. Certainly one of the biggest secrets in all of Champagne. Jacques Lassaigne Blanc de Blancs Les Vignes de Montgueux This is an assemblage of 9 different old vine Chardonnay parcels from Montgueux. 50% 2008 and remainder 2007 and 2004. Tight and mineral with an enticing delicate persistent mousse that just lasts forever. The quality of the 2008 vintage shines like a beacon. Nose shows some minerals, flint, white peaches and almonds. The palate carries elegant richness with hints of citrus, brioche and spices. Piercing length with pin-point acidity and wonderful balance with a mousse that penetrates the taste buds for many minutes. Partial malolactic fermentation – dosage 4g/litre. Natural yeasts with no fining and no filtration. Now aged in a blend of tank and new and old barrels – all adding to the spicy smokiness on an expansive mouthfilling palate. This wine was an instant success last year and sold out quickly, luckily we have managed to squeeze a second allocation this year. Prices have risen – but when you appreciate the 'costs' and human effort required to produce this stunning wine – it is still an absolute bargain. We have a few restaurants queuing up for this wine. Merci Emmanuel! $50.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 5726 11 Emmanuel Lassaigne is redefining the terroir of Montgueux with individual hand-crafted blanc de blancs Champagnes that reveal subtleties that are more reminiscent of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger rather than the Aube. Also he has gone against local trends by not selling to the public or cellar door. When we visited and discussed the production philosophy with Emmanuel we were very impressed by his passion to preserve the terroir and his attention to detail. Natural yeasts are used where possible and minimal fining and no filtration. He is fanatical about the entire Champagne making process and believes that it cannot be hurried and needs to happen at cool cellar temperatures. For example – the prisse de mousse phase – which adds the fine bubbles to the assembled still wine - can take can take between 1 and 3 months. A quick prise de mousse that takes 1 month will yield a coarser mousse and a more gassy wine. Emmanuel takes more than 3 months and obtains a wonderfully fine grain foaming mousse. For some of his cuvées, he actually does two ‘prise de mousse’ phases. After the first prise de mousse, the wine goes back into barrel for aging as per normal, at the end of which the wine has gone flat, ready for the final ‘prise de mousse’. What dedication and hard work! This technique allows him to use much less sulphur in the overall process. Bollinger use a similar technique by storing their reserve wines in magnum with a very slight pressuring. Also for the riddling process – generally everyone these days uses the automated gyropallette. Riddling times can take between 6-10 days but the bigger houses can get this down to 4 days – whereas Emmanuel takes 14 days. All the wines have low dosages of beet sugar and allow the terroir to shine. He is also slowly introducing more small oak barriques to add complexities and extra spice into the range. Emmanuel is a methodical purist – oozing with ideas and confidence – never happy with the status quo. All of his cuvées are the best that he can produce from the material he has to work with – they are just different expressions of the complex terroirs. There are no weak wines in the range – they are all brilliant. His wines are to be found in all the best wine shops, wine bars and restaurants throughout Europe – and especially Paris. Also for the future – Emmanuel will have a new single vineyard Chardonnay cuvee from a rare 'Clos' in Montgueux – 'Clos St Sophie'. Emmanuel explaining the viticulture of the 'Le Cotet' vineyard. 12 CLAUDE CAZALS Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 9 hectares Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is all about intense powerfully focused minerality, chalk and wet stone. Parallels with great Puligny-Montrachet are common and precise. As the wines mature, tangerine and apricot flavours can develop. Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is home to two of the most famous cuvées in all of Champagne, the Krug Clos-du-Mesnil and to Salon. Established in 1897, Ernest Cazals, a barrel maker from Herault set up business in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Born inventors, Olivier and his son Claude came up with many ingenious ideas and inventions to improve the quality of the Champagne process, one very famous one being the “Gyropalette”. Now run by Delphine Cazals, with their cellars in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. They own 9 hectares of Grand Cru (Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger) and 1er Cru (Vertus and Villeneuve-Renneville) Chardonnay including an exclusive monopole made from their 3.7 hectare Clos in Oger, Clos Cazals. Grandfather Olivier planted this vineyard in 1947. Michael Edwards in the ‘Finest Wines of Champagne’ writes – ‘Delphine Cazals and her winemakers have fashioned one of the prettiest, most beguiling Chardonnay Champagnes, which mirrors her own engaging personality.’ Delphine Cazals is now at the helm producing better and better Champagnes at every opportunity. No doubt, being married to Olivier Bonville from Franck Bonville in Avize helps! Quality is on the improve (if that is possible!) – With some 1/3 of Delphine’s grapes being sold to Bollinger, Deutz and Roederer – and their winemaker used to work for Bollinger. Most exports go to Belgium, Germany, Japan and now also just recently the U.K. Delphine has initiative and innovation in abundance and is determined to develop a unique style of Champagne – characterised by elegance and finesse in counterpoint with the rich treasures of this unique terroir. Claude Cazals Carte Or Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs. 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from a blend of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. From 2007 vintage plus older reserve wines with a dosage of 8g/litre. A very fine mousse that lingers forever. Nose has lovely wet stone and floral nuances so typical of Le Mesnil. Palate is long and unctuous – a delicious elegant finesse driven style which is approachable now and needs very little cellaring. Sensational value. This style here is like a sparkling White Burgundy. $44.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 3492 Claude Cazals NV Cuvée Vive Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut. For this cuvée Delphine is searching for a much ‘finer’ expression of minerality and purity. Made from her best parcels of Le Mesnil and Oger which includes young vines from ‘Clos Cazals’. Much tighter than the Carte Or with a lower dosage of 3g/litre. This cuvee is predominantly 2004 with a tiny amount of older reserve wines. Tingling minerality with a hint of bottle aged maturity – all entwined with citrus and yeasty aromas. Every time we visit Delphine and taste thru the entire range, we marginally prefer this unique cuvée over the excellent vintage wine – and so does Delphine. $50.00/bt Pre-arrival Code: 5719 13 LE BRUN SERVENAY Avize – Cote des Blancs 9 hectares Le Brun Servenay Brut Selection Avize Grand Cru 100% Chardonnay being a blend of 50% 2008, 20% 2007, 20% 2006 and older reserve wines. This particular cuvée is always a blend of 4 vintages – and good ones at that. Fermentation is classic in tank and the malo-lactic fermentation is blocked. Rich and tight, very complex with oodles of Avize spice – coupled with subtle overtones of white fruits. There is purity and weight and the lack of malo-lactic fermentation adds a level of finesse and freshness which makes this a great aperitif or food style. This is primarily from Avize with a little Cramant (vineyard right on the Avize border) and a little Oger. This wine needs no introduction – now very popular with regular customers and many restaurants are pouring this by the glass including Rockpool. Closure is Diam cork. This is a new shipment – it has been 'that' popular. $42.00/bt Pre-arrival CODE: 5932 Burghound: “(base wine 2007, 100% chardonnay). An exceptionally subtle and restrained nose grudgingly offers up ultra-pure and elegant aromas of freshly baked bread, rose petals, lavender, sliced green apple and a hint of lemon. Equally pure, intense and beautifully well-delineated flavours are crisp, focused and quite dry without being unduly austere on the linear finish. I quite like this but it’s perhaps not the best choice for those who desire generous or very full-flavored examples as this is decidedly an understated Champagne. This could be drunk now or held for a few more years, which would be my choice. 93pts/2014+” Tim White – The Australian Financial Review October 28-30 2011: “Crisp pear skin and flinty-smelling with a touch of complex match strike. Spring water pure fruit. Excellent weight in the mouth with subtle pear and lemon peel flavours. Long and pure, a Champagne for purists and oyster lovers. 94/100” Six bottle discovery packs allow you to easily choose a selection to suit your specific interests. Blanc de Blanc Selection $275.00 Code: 8574 Laherte BdB Nature Cazals Carte Or J.L.Vergnon Conversation Hebrart 1er Cru Launois Quartz Lassaigne Montgueux Terroir Pack $296.00 Code: 5936 Benard-Pitois Cuvee Reserve Tarlant Brut Nature Zero Jacky Charpentier Prestige Rose Launois Cuvee Reserve Blanc de Blancs Lassaigne Montgueux Blanc de Blancs Eric Rodez Crayeres Pinot Dominant Pack $280.00 Code: 8575 Voirin-Jumel Blanc de Noirs Henriet-Bazin Blanc de Noirs Francis Boulard Blanc de Noirs Chiquet Tradition Jacky Charpentier Prestige Francis Boulard Saignee Rose 14 'More Bulles ' - Order form CODE QTY in multiple s of 3 DESCRIPTION Price 3530 Eric Rodez 'Cuvée des Crayeres' Grand Cru $54.00 2312 Eric Rodez Brut Zero Grand Cru 6 bottle maximum $58.00 3535 Tarlant Brut Zero Nature $50.00 4127 Tarlant Cuvee Louis $72.00 3492 Claude Cazals Carte Or Blanc de Blancs $44.00 5719 Claude Cazals Cuvee Vive Blanc de Blancs $50.00 3529 Benard-Pitois Cuvee Reserve $43.00 5726 Jacques Lassaigne Les Vignes de Montgueux Blanc de Blancs $50.00 3626 Jacky Charpentier Prestige $48.00 5738 Jacky Charpentier Prestige Rose $49.00 3534 Marc Hebrart Cuvee Reserve $39.50 5722 Marc Hebrart Cuvee Rose $42.00 2323 Marc Hebrart Cuvee Selection $42.00 2332 Marc Hebrart Cuvee Blanc de Blancs $41.00 5932 Le Brun Servenay Cuvee Selection Blanc de Blancs $42.00 8574 Blanc de Blancs Discovery Selection $275.00 5936 Terroir Discovery Selection $296.00 8575 Pinot Dominant Selection $280.00 VALUE SUBTOTAL 5% Discount for full cases (12 x 750ml) of the same wine TOTAL FREIGHT Grand TOTAL $ : 15 A business address that is open between 9am & 5pm where someone is able to receive the wine is preferable. However if we are delivering to a private address, Australia Post now has the provision on its label for a brief instruction of where you are happy for wine to be left if no one is home. (i.e. on front porch under cover, in garage on left side of house, by front door out of weather etc.) If there is nowhere safe and nobody home they will leave a card and take delivery to nearest Australia Post. 16 Champagne Tarlant, preparing for harvest
