Somm Journal Aug/Sept.indd

A TOUR OF THE REGION’S GREAT ESTATES NETS INDELIBLE
MEMORIES—AND MANY BOTTLES FOR THE CELLAR
by Steven Spurrier
what Beaune is to Burgundy) boasting a
19th-century panelled dining room and
a wine list only a little less encyclopaedic than that of the Michelin three-star
Auberge de L’Ill. Before dinner that
evening the Comité Interprofessionel
des Vins d’Alsace presented a tasting of
ten grand cru Rieslings from producers
we would not be visiting, my favourites
being: Steinklotz (the most northern of
the 51 grands crus) 2012 Arthur Metz,
Schlossberg 2012 Arthur Mann, Brand
2011 Albert Boxler and Eichberg 2010
Domaine Zinck that confirmed again
2010’s great quality.
The following morning saw us at ZindHumbrecht in Turkheim, one of only three
(the others being Domaine Weinbach
and Marcel Deiss, also visited) estates
to gain the full five stars in the influential French Bettane & Dessauve guide.
Leonard Humbrecht was one of the first
domaines to convert to Biodymanisme
Somm Journal Aug/Sept.indd 21
(all those we visited are “en bio”) and his
son Olivier was France’s first Master of
Wine. From 40 hectares on myriad soils
and exposures, their range of wines is
a roller-coaster with only highs. They
are very proud of the “classic” 2012
vintage and my top notes, apart from a
delicious Muscat Goldert 2011, went to
Riesling Clos Urbain Rangen de Thann
(Alsace’s most southern grand cru), Pinot
Gris Clos Urbain Rangen de Thann and
Gewurztraminer Hengst. These 2012s, like
many of the Zind-Humbrecht wines, will
become collectors’ items.
Then it was off to Josmeyer in
Wintzenheim, one of my very favourite
producers for the lifted purity and light
texture of their wines. Their Pinot Blanc
Mise du Printemps 2013 had an unbeatable deliciousness, the Riesling Le
Kottabe 2011 showed restrained florality,
the Riesling Hengst (a grand cru on limestone soil) 2011 had beautiful structure
and clarity for keeping, while the Pinot
Gris Brand 2008 seduced with its Turkish
delight exoticism and richness. A light
lunch in the cellar courtyard showed how
well these wines go with food.
Sufficiently refreshed, the afternoon
visit was to Leon Beyer in nearby
Eguisheim, champion of the very dry style
of Alsace wines, described in French as
nerveux, with great potential for ageing.
We tasted three 2007s—Riesling, Pinot
Gris and Gewurztraminer—under their
prestige label Comtes d’Eguisheim,
mostly from the Grand Cru Eichberg,
before a still vigourous Gewurztraminer
1975, before ending on the nectar-like
richness of Riesling Vendange Tardive
1995, Gewurztraminer Sélection de
Grains Nobles 1998 and Pinot Gris SGN
Quintessence 1994.
No trip to Alsace is complete without a
visit to Hugel (founded 1639 in Riquewihr)
and Trimbach (founded 1626 in neigh-
7/16/14 3:19 PM