Art in Buenos Aires

Transcription

Art in Buenos Aires

photo: Alexander Zabara
Art in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires, 5 Days
Table of contents:
Guide Description 2
Itinerary Overview 3
Daily Itineraries 6
Buenos Aires Snapshot 21
1
Guide Description
AUTHOR NOTE: The Buenos Aires art world reflects the city
itself – a fusion of Latin fury and European panache that creates
a purely Argentine character. Though at times daunting, the
gallery scene in Buenos Aires is a far cry from the big shots of
New York or Paris, and the museum collections may leave much
to be desired from those who seek Renaissance or Impressionist
masterworks. But if what you are after is something freshly
contemporary, not to mention comparatively affordable original
works, Buenos Aires is a fantastic place for you to become totally
immersed in art. Buenos Aires has some great cultural centers
that garner some of the city’s best exhibitions; essential stops
include the Centros Culturales Recoleta and Borges. The MALBA
has one of the finest collections of Latin American art around,
and the annual ArteBA international art fair is a 5-day whirlwind of
visual stimulation. The big-name galleries and exhibition spaces,
such as Praxis, Braga Menendez, and Fundación Federico Jorge
Klemm, host opening receptions for their shows, welcoming the
public in to feel like an insider. But the art in this city reaches
beyond the standard exhibition space limits – Buenos Aires is full
of creative restaurants, cafés, bars, and hotels, where you can
live and breath art. Spend a night at 1550 Malabia House or the
Design Suites Hotel, or splurge on the Faena Hotel and Universe,
the manifestation of Alan Faena’s dream hotel. Grab a bite in
Milion, La Divina Comedia, and Mott, where the imaginative
dishes and drinks are enhanced by the architectural design and
original art hanging on the walls.
2
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
Day 1 - Buenos Aires
DAY NOTE: Begin the day by getting your creative juices flowing
at the Centro Cultural Recoleta. The website doesn’t keep the
exhibition schedule very up-to-date, but drop by the reception
desk to pick up pamphlets about current and coming exhibitions.
The CCR is considered to be the beating heart and soul of the
Buenos Aires art world, so you can’t really go wrong here no
matter what is on the walls. There are also lots of free cultural
calendars and newsletters, along with city-wide art event and
show announcements available at the door. Catch a quick cab
up to café/bookstore Crack-Up in Palermo Soho, where you can
grab a sandwich, a coffee, and a quirky travel guide or artist’s
book, and settle in for an hour. The neighborhood lunch crowd
tends to pack into the larger restaurants in the area so you should
be able to find some space, and peace, here. Make sure that you
read up on Xul Solar before heading over to his former home
turned museum – knowing a little bit about his genius/madness
beforehand will surely enhance your experience when you see
his art and inventions and try to crack the code of the secret
language that he created. The Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo
Sívori is more mainstream and features Latin America’s biggest
names in art. La Cigale has a dimly-lit jazz-lounge feel and a
great happy hour cocktail list, but note that the 2 x 1 special is
personal, so come thirsty! But save some room for the incredible
frozen mojitos or basil daiquiris down the street at Milion, where
you can sample the Latin cuisine in the lovely outdoor courtyard,
or enjoy the bar inside surrounded by the off-beat photos of
Buenos Aires big-shot Marcos Lopez. If you’re not too tipsy yet,
stop off at Mott on the way home for yet another cocktail, or, if
you’ve had enough, an aromatic tea, on the fluffy sofas in this
cavernous restaurant in Palermo. The design interior at the hip
Malabia House will welcome you home when you finally turn in for
the night.
Centro Cultural Recoleta
Art in historic surroundings
Crack-Up
An intellectual drink
Xul Solar
Milión
Sultry downtown drinking and dining
Mott
Fresh cocktails and people-watching
1555 Malabia House
Designer Bed and Breakfast
DAY NOTE: Kick off your Friday with an intimate look at the
Buenos Aires art world from the inside when you meet the
artists in their studios on the Artists’ Atelier Tour. The tour
takes about 5 hours total and is mainly for art collectors and
those who intend to buy works, but all who are interested in
meeting local artists are welcome. Stop into the Scandinavianinspired Olsen for a minimalist lunch or a creative vodka-infused
specialty concoction by the fashionably scruffy bartenders. If the
weather’s nice, make sure to situate yourself on the garden patio.
Walk a few blocks over to Braga Menendez, a staunchly Latin
American contemporary gallery that always has a stimulating,
or at least eccentric, exhibition. Cross over from here to the
hangar-like garage studio and showroom of Nico Alligator,
where the junk sculptor will greet you, or at least try to get you
to buy something. His prices are almost absurdly cheap, but
he is gaining recognition so start collecting him now! Te Mataré
Ramirez is not for the conservative dinner crowd; an “aphrodisiac
restaurant” with erotic puppet shows, kama sutra images on the
walls, and after-dinner pole dancing classes offered, this kinky
spot is perfect for couples looking for a bit of…stimulation. Enjoy
your meal surrounded by fetish 50’s-style dancers and then stop
off at the restaurant’s shop for some goodies. If you aren’t worn
out by now, Mosoq is a perfect place to end your night, with an
inspired martini (a Buenos Aires rarity).
Artists' Atelier Tour
An art tour with a personal touch
Permanent exhibition of Xul Solar's works
Olsen
Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo
Sívori
Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo
Argentinean and Latin American art
Power of independent thought
Cigale (La)
Nico Alligator
Lively, French-owned cosmopolitan hotspot
For Swedish lovers
Junkyard art
3
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
Te Mataré Ramirez
Museo de Arte Moderno
Mosoq
Gran Bar Danzón
1555 Malabia House
Faena Hotel + Universe
Imaginative international cuisine
Peruvian food and martini bar
Designer Bed and Breakfast
Modern art since the end of the 19th century
Hip and trendy restaurant and wine bar
El Paradiso
DAY NOTE: Saturday morning is a starts off with a look at the
international art collection at Praxis, which has branches in New
York and other major art centers. Check the exhibition schedule
before heading over to Palais de Glace, the former ice skating
rink-turned art space. Buenos Aires’ major fine arts competitions
are displayed here, so depending on the date, you might get to
see Buenos Aires Foto or the National Salon exhibition, among
others. Just around the corner is Lola, a fine-dining establishment
where the wine list is robust and the atmosphere is fit for royalty.
Enjoy a champagne lunch here before wandering the halls and
exhibition rooms at the Centro Cultural Borges, known to host
everything from group shows curated by the city’s top gallerinas,
to major retrospectives of international masters, to the annual
World Press Photo show. Swing by the Museo de Arte Moderno,
which is temporarily housed in the Correo Central (the central
post office building) while its permanent home in San Telmo
undergoes renovations for the third year running. The opening
hours at this location vary so make sure to check online or call
ahead so you don’t meet a locked door when you arrive. Your
next stop is at Gran Bar Danzón, a chic wine bar with a great
menu. From here, catch a cab down to the Faena Hotel and
Universe in trendy Puerto Madero for a luxurious night in the posh
Phillip Starcke fantasy hotel.
DAY NOTE: Most of the city sleeps on Sunday, but you ought
to rise bright and early and walk across Puerto Madero to the
bustling Feria de San Telmo, the famed arts and antiques street
fair. Catch a seat on the street-side white cushions at La Divina
Comedia for a tasty bite and the market’s best people-watching.
Cross to the north end of San Telmo for a look into the labyrinthlike Manzana de las Luces, the 17th century Jesuit refuge that
houses the Mercado de las Luces, where local artisans vend
their silver and copper jewelry, hand-bound books, and leather
products. For dinner tonight, try La Farmacia, the house-like
former pharmacy-turned eclectic restaurant, with bright red walls,
moody lighting, and an assortment of funky paintings hanging
on the walls. If the weather’s right, ask for a table on the rooftop
terrace. When it’s time to turn in for the last night, a room at the
Design Suites Hotel in Barrio Norte awaits. The slick design,
featuring a reflecting pool in the center of the cement-and-glass
lobby, is accented by rotating exhibitions by the artists from
Galería 5006. All of the original works in the rooms are available
for purchase as well, so be sure to inquire if something sparks
your interest.
San Pedro Telmo Antiques Fair
Weekly full-day street festival
Galería Praxis Arte Internacional
Interesting gallery with branches abroad
Palais de Glace
Remarkable shows!
Lola
Champagne and art
Centro Cultural Borges
A thoroughly modern cultural centre
La Divina Comedia
Heavenly cafe & smoky lounge
Manzana de las Luces
Where the light of intelligence shown
La Farmacia
Quirky, elegant, and refreshing
Design Suites Buenos Aires
Overlooking a bustling square
4
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
DAY NOTE: The last week of May brings the annual
internationally-acclaimed art fair, ArteBA, which takes place in
the vast La Rural complex in Plaza Italia. Every major gallery
from Latin America is represented, all of the local celebrities
make appearances (last year Cristina Kirchner popped in), and
the champagne flows freely. Allow plenty of time to see the
fair, and don’t bother with the map – you’ll get lost in the maze
of booths regardless. If you aren’t totally wiped out after that
whirlwind art fest, hop on the metro in Plaza Italia and take it
a few stops to Juramento in Belgrano, to the Museo de Arte
Español Enrique Larreta. Larreta, the Argentine writer, lived
in this Spanish Renaissance-style palace during his lifetime,
creating a divine space for displaying his collection of 16th and
17th century artworks. The museum is free on Thursdays, but
will barely break the bank during the rest of the week with its AR
$1 admission fee. Grab your lunch at Filo, the funky lunchtime
hotspot in Microcentro that serves up some of the best bread and
pizza in town, freshly baked in the giant clay oven in the back of
the restaurant. From here you can walk down to the Fundación
Federico Jorge Klemm, where the quirky collection ranges from
Andy Warhol to Jeff Koons to Giorgio de Chirico, along with tons
of works by contemporary Latin American artists. Pass on to the
MALBA, Buenos Aires’ contemporary art pride and joy. The 3
museum levels present visitors with just enough major works to
feel satisfied without becoming overwhelmed. Check the museum
schedule to see what independent and art house films are playing
in the theater, and make sure to drop into the MALBA shop, to
see what kinds of purchasable creations local designers are
coming up with. Take a break from the established artists at the
Premio a Jóvenes Pintores, a competition for emerging Argentine
painters, held at the Palais de Glace. Sit down for a multi-course
dinner at Tomo I in the Hotel Panamericano, where ethnic
cuisine-themed weeks, such as Indian and Tuscan, take place
occasionally. Here every last detail, down to the presentation, is
considered, making the final product a piece of art in itself.
Tomo I
Homemade dishes, exquisite presentation
Museo de Arte Español ¨Enrique
Larreta¨
Specialized in old and contemporary Spanish art
Filo
Famous cafe
Fundación Federico Jorge Klemm
Select avant-garde art
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de
Buenos Aires (MALBA)
The main place for Latin American contemporary art
5
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Begin the day by getting your creative juices flowing at the Centro Cultural Recoleta. The website doesn’t keep the
exhibition schedule very up-to-date, but drop by the reception desk to pick up pamphlets about current and coming exhibitions. The CCR
is considered to be the beating heart and soul of the Buenos Aires art world, so you can’t really go wrong here no matter what is on the
walls. There are also lots of free cultural calendars and newsletters, along with city-wide art event and show announcements available
at the door. Catch a quick cab up to café/bookstore Crack-Up in Palermo Soho, where you can grab a sandwich, a coffee, and a quirky
travel guide or artist’s book, and settle in for an hour. The neighborhood lunch crowd tends to pack into the larger restaurants in the area
so you should be able to find some space, and peace, here. Make sure that you read up on Xul Solar before heading over to his former
home turned museum – knowing a little bit about his genius/madness beforehand will surely enhance your experience when you see
his art and inventions and try to crack the code of the secret language that he created. The Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori
is more mainstream and features Latin America’s biggest names in art. La Cigale has a dimly-lit jazz-lounge feel and a great happy
hour cocktail list, but note that the 2 x 1 special is personal, so come thirsty! But save some room for the incredible frozen mojitos or
basil daiquiris down the street at Milion, where you can sample the Latin cuisine in the lovely outdoor courtyard, or enjoy the bar inside
surrounded by the off-beat photos of Buenos Aires big-shot Marcos Lopez. If you’re not too tipsy yet, stop off at Mott on the way home
for yet another cocktail, or, if you’ve had enough, an aromatic tea, on the fluffy sofas in this cavernous restaurant in Palermo. The design
interior at the hip Malabia House will welcome you home when you finally turn in for the night.
contact:
tel: +54 11 4803 1040
http://www.centroculturalreco
leta.org/
location:
Junín 1930
1 Centro Cultural Recoleta
DESCRIPTION: Built in 1716 by the Franciscan Recoleto
monks, this complex later served as a hospital during the
English invasions. In 1928 it was reduced to make way for the
expansion of the adjacent Recoleta Cemetery. Years later it
became an asylum for over 800 homeless and elderly, until
in 1978 it was destined for use as a cultural centre. The walls
wcities
6
Day 1 - continued...
Buenos Aires Buenos Aires
1113
contact:
tel: 54 11 4831 3502
http://www.crackup.com.ar
location:
Costa Rica 4767
Buenos Aires 1175
hours:
Daily 9a-10p
contact:
tel: +54 11 48243302
fax: +54 11 48215378
http://www.xulsolar.org.ar/
location:
Laprida 1212
1425
hours:
Midday-8p Mon-Fri
were fortified and painted in ochre and reddish tones, and it
now bustles with cultural and educational activities for young
and old. There is a small café, a gift shop and bookstore on the
premises. Offices of the United Nations are also found here. ©
wcities.com
2 Crack-Up
DESCRIPTION: When your usual café and bar routine starts to
get a little old, vary the repetition with an evening at Crack-Up,
a tiny yet ambitious bookstore/café in hip Palermo Soho. Most
books are in Spanish, but the collection of quirky art books and
independent travel guides (many bilingual) is impressive, and
the ever-present owners are quick to suggest a great read or
tasty wine. Check out the events schedule to find out about the
variety of happenings, such as live jazz or special fixed-menu
dinners. © wcities.com
Photo courtesy of Crack-Up
3 Xul Solar
DESCRIPTION: The museum and headquarters of the Pan
Club Foundation is what used to be the residence of the late
Xul Solar. It houses a permanent exposition of much of his
works. The building's architectural layout is outstanding; it was
especially designed by Architect Pablo Beitía with the aim of
displaying the artist's work. The uneven back yard coincides
with the house's old garden, while the interior communicates
with the terrace and with the second floor, where Xul used to
live. The simple furniture was designed by the artist himself.
There is also a piano, some puppets, and an enormous library.
Xul Solar developed a versatile, eccentric personality, of
great genius. This personality led him to perform on many
disciplines: inventions, chess, astrologically-based tarot, a
fuller-sounding piano with 3 rows of textured keys for people
with sight impediments, architectural ideas in urbanism and
landscaping, and even linguistics by creating the "neocriollo":
a humorous mixture of Spanish and Portuguese. He attempted
to found pan-universalism as a base in which people of every
nation and religion could meet.
His greatest achievement was in painting. In this field he is
renowned as predecessor in surrealism in a Latin American
reality. With his small, colourful watercolours he uncovered
a mysterious world of symbols (represented, for example, by
arrows and stairs) and unveiled the path of surreal culture. ©
wcities.com
wcities
7
contact:
tel: +54 11 4774 9452 / +54
11 4772 5628
http://www.museosivori.org.ar
location:
Avenida Infanta Isabel 555
1425
hours:
Tu-F noon-8p, Sa-Su &
holidays 10a-8p
contact:
tel: 54 11 43128275
fax: 54 11 43128275
location:
25 de Mayo 722
Buenos Aires 1376
hours:
6p-2a Tu-Su
contact:
tel: 54 11 4815 9925
fax: +54 11 4815 9922
http://www.milion.com.ar/
location:
Parana 1048
Buenos Aires 1018
hours:
Daily lunch and dinner
4 Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo
Sívori
DESCRIPTION: Specializing in Argentine art, the museum
features a vast collection of paintings, sculptures, drawings,
and tapestries. The museum features a huge room for
its permanent exhibits, and another room for temporary
exhibits, a sculpture garden, library, multiple purpose room,
restoration and photograph department, cafeteria, and giftshop. Temporary exhibits usually feature works by popular
Argentine and Latin American artists. You can even attend
courses and workshops on drawing, painting, sculpting,
tapestry photography, restoration, papier-mâché and video
making. The museum also organizes painting contests and
seminars. © wcities.com
wcities
5 Cigale (La)
DESCRIPTION: This French-style cafeteria is a favorite in
Buenos Aires, especially at sunset. It constitutes a very special
gathering point of youngsters. In the menu, mostly made up
European Cuisine dishes, fish is a favorite. Live music shows
and DJ presentations with avant-garde European music are
in house. Superb menu items, superior drink preparations,
and exclusive music selections are the highlights of the venue.
There are many parties at night during the week. One of the
most important ones is the Noche Francesa (French Night). ©
wcities.com
wcities
6 Milión
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:
Belly up to the bar to sample the house specialty the frozen mojito. The relatively hefty 25 peso price
tag is well worth it.
DESCRIPTION: Located in a restored mansion and outfitted
with modern art installations, Milion is a great place to meet
friends for a drink or to take a date for dinner. Climb the grand
staircase leading to the dimly lit main dining room and the
crowded bar, or pass through this area to the outdoor courtyard,
complete with open-air tables, lawn sculptures, torches, and
a white tent for film screenings. The tables and bar area are a
hotspot for young locals and travelers, so make reservations if
you want to ensure a table.
Photo courtesy of Milion
8
contact:
tel: 5411 4833 4306
http://www.guiaoleo.com.ar/d
etail.php
location:
El Salvador 4685
Buenos Aires 1425
hours:
Daily 11a-2a, closed
7:30p-8:30p
7 Mott
DESCRIPTION: Mott has a gourmet kitchen that can run with
the best of them, but the mixed drinks really stand out among
bars in Buenos Aires. In a city that swears by the wretchedly
bitter Italian Fernet Branca, a well-made, creative cocktail is
hard to come by. Mott features a rotating drink specials list,
ranging from a frozen ginger mojito to a sour apple and basil
martini. The open-air sofas on the elevated front deck offer a
perfect people-watching platform, where, with fresh, smooth
drink in hand, you will undoubtedly be the object of envy for
passersby.
babalucci
contact:
8 1555 Malabia House
tel: 5411 4833 2410
http://www.malabiahouse.com
.ar
DESCRIPTION: Dubbed a "designer bed and breakfast" by
location:
Malabia 1555 - Palermo
Buenos Aires 1414
the owners, Malabia House is located in Palermo Soho in a
century-old townhouse and former convent. Guests can choose
from 11 rooms and 4 suites in this no-frills lodging that has
everything you will need for a lovely stay, without some of the
features that might draw you to another place with a pool or a
spa. However, at Malabia House, the focus is on service, and
the staff is more than willing to guide guests to some choice
locations in the neighborhood.
Hotels.com
9
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Kick off your Friday with an intimate look at the Buenos Aires art world from the inside when you meet the artists in their
studios on the Artists’ Atelier Tour. The tour takes about 5 hours total and is mainly for art collectors and those who intend to buy works,
but all who are interested in meeting local artists are welcome. Stop into the Scandinavian-inspired Olsen for a minimalist lunch or a
creative vodka-infused specialty concoction by the fashionably scruffy bartenders. If the weather’s nice, make sure to situate yourself
on the garden patio. Walk a few blocks over to Braga Menendez, a staunchly Latin American contemporary gallery that always has
a stimulating, or at least eccentric, exhibition. Cross over from here to the hangar-like garage studio and showroom of Nico Alligator,
where the junk sculptor will greet you, or at least try to get you to buy something. His prices are almost absurdly cheap, but he is gaining
recognition so start collecting him now! Te Mataré Ramirez is not for the conservative dinner crowd; an “aphrodisiac restaurant” with
erotic puppet shows, kama sutra images on the walls, and after-dinner pole dancing classes offered, this kinky spot is perfect for couples
looking for a bit of…stimulation. Enjoy your meal surrounded by fetish 50’s-style dancers and then stop off at the restaurant’s shop for
some goodies. If you aren’t worn out by now, Mosoq is a perfect place to end your night, with an inspired martini (a Buenos Aires rarity).
contact:
tel: 54 11 40496107 for USA
and Canada the number is 1
877 278 5006
http://www.www.arttour.com.
ar
location:
Marcelo T. de Alvear
1683
1 Artists' Atelier Tour
DESCRIPTION: If you appreciate art but find galleries to be
somewhat intimidating or inaccessible, join the directors of
Galeria 5006 for a peek into the studios of working artists.
The tour begins in the funky lobby of the Design Suites Hotel,
and from there you will be transported to up to four different
studios in the Palermo area. Settle in on their couches or studio
floors, help yourself to some coffee, and immerse yourself in
the creative ambiance emanating from the artists, who range
from feminist photographers to conceptual master painters.
Afterwards, the tour comes to an end in the studio of Galeria
5006, where a catered lunch and a chance to purchase any of
Photo courtesy ofArtists' Atelier Tour
10
the work awaits. This is an extraordinary chance for anyone
interested in art. © wcities.com
contact:
tel: 54 11 4776 7677
location:
Gorriti 5870
Buenos Aires C1414BKJ
hours:
Tu-Su Noon-4p, 8p-2a
contact:
tel: +54 11 4775 5577 / +54
11 4775 9255
http://www.galeriabm.com/
location:
Humboldt 1574
Buenos Aires C1414CTN
contact:
tel: +54 11 15 5763 6300
http://www.esculturasalligator
.com.ar/
location:
Uriarte 1857
1414
hours:
M-Sa 1p-6p
contact:
tel: 54 11 4831 9156
http://www.tematareramirez.c
om/
location:
Gorriti 5054
2 Olsen
DESCRIPTION: The traditional good taste of the Swedish is
present in this unique restaurant located in the residential zone
of Palermo. Located in what used to be a warehouse, Olsen
has a sober yet elegant 1960s atmosphere. Choose between
an impressive array of tasty Nordic dishes and appetizers.
During the hot summer nights it would be a sin not to take
advantage of the outdoor tables in the park to savor one of their
many vodka drinks, with several high-end types of the spirit
available from countries all around the world. This trendy spot
is very popular with locals and tourist alike. All members of the
staff speak perfect English as well. © wcities.com
Photo courtesy of Olsen flew to Las
3 Braga Menendez Arte
Contemporaneo
DESCRIPTION: This art gallery, dedicated to promoting
independent thought in Latin American art, showcases the
paintings and mixed media work, primarily of local artists. The
works convey the feelings and thoughts of the artist, with a
variety of themes. The gallery showcases Manuel Ameztoy,
whose paintings depict situations that are a departure from
reality. In contrast, Eloisa Ballivian's work depicts real life
situations which give an insight into a woman's identity in
society. Other important artists include Sibyl Cohen, Cristina
Schiavi, Max Gomex Canle, Chino Soria, and Manuel Ameztoy.
© wcities.com
wcities
4 Nico Alligator
DESCRIPTION: If you manage to get by the pit bull chained near the entrance (he seems to be
more bark than bite), you will be pleasantly surprised by the quality of found-object artworks inside
this huge, no-frills warehouse, which houses both the artist's studio and exhibition space. From
materials such as old pipes, rusted hubcaps, and broken glass, Nico has formed figures that are
wonderful positioned together or alone; choose from a twelve-inch dog-walker to a five-foot cupid,
complete with bow and arrow. Prices are quite reasonable, but even just browsing is an entertaining
event. © wcities.com
5 Te Mataré Ramirez
DESCRIPTION: The owners of this restaurant have used all their experience and ingenuity in
creating this imaginative restaurant. There is a distinctive style to the place, from the menu, to the
decoration, right down to the name. Known to be frequented by some celebrities. Decorated in a
vibrant and imaginative way. The atmosphere created is fun and the place is visited by people of all
11
Buenos Aires 1425
hours:
Mo to Su from 08:30 PM to
01:00 AM
contact:
tel: 5411 4775 7974
http://www.mosoq.com
location:
El Salvador 5800
Buenos Aires 1425
hours:
M-Sa 11a-3p, 8p-2a
ages and styles. International cuisine that is innovative and created with much attention to detail.
Suggestions: Seafood stew with ginger and oyster sauce; the crème brulle is also spectacular. ©
wcities.com
6 Mosoq
DESCRIPTION: A good martini is a rarity in Buenos Aires. Just
try and order one at nearly any bar in the city; your drink will
be poured from a single bottle labeled "Martini," hardly a viable
competitor in the mind of a true martini lover. Enter Mosoq, a
martini bar/Peruvian restaurant extraordinaire, with a droolworthy list of martini varieties, all prepared to perfection. The
food, inspired by traditional Peruvian cuisine, isn't half bad,
either.
Martin Kimeldorf's Pixel Playground
contact:
7 1555 Malabia House
tel: 5411 4833 2410
http://www.malabiahouse.com
.ar
DESCRIPTION: Dubbed a "designer bed and breakfast" by
location:
Malabia 1555 - Palermo
Buenos Aires 1414
the owners, Malabia House is located in Palermo Soho in a
century-old townhouse and former convent. Guests can choose
from 11 rooms and 4 suites in this no-frills lodging that has
everything you will need for a lovely stay, without some of the
features that might draw you to another place with a pool or a
spa. However, at Malabia House, the focus is on service, and
the staff is more than willing to guide guests to some choice
locations in the neighborhood.
Hotels.com
12
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Saturday morning is a starts off with a look at the international art collection at Praxis, which has branches in New York and
other major art centers. Check the exhibition schedule before heading over to Palais de Glace, the former ice skating rink-turned art
space. Buenos Aires’ major fine arts competitions are displayed here, so depending on the date, you might get to see Buenos Aires Foto
or the National Salon exhibition, among others. Just around the corner is Lola, a fine-dining establishment where the wine list is robust
and the atmosphere is fit for royalty. Enjoy a champagne lunch here before wandering the halls and exhibition rooms at the Centro
Cultural Borges, known to host everything from group shows curated by the city’s top gallerinas, to major retrospectives of international
masters, to the annual World Press Photo show. Swing by the Museo de Arte Moderno, which is temporarily housed in the Correo
Central (the central post office building) while its permanent home in San Telmo undergoes renovations for the third year running. The
opening hours at this location vary so make sure to check online or call ahead so you don’t meet a locked door when you arrive. Your
next stop is at Gran Bar Danzón, a chic wine bar with a great menu. From here, catch a cab down to the Faena Hotel and Universe in
trendy Puerto Madero for a luxurious night in the posh Phillip Starcke fantasy hotel.
contact:
tel: +54 11 4813 8639
http://www.praxis-art.com
location:
Arenales 1311
1061
hours:
10a-8p M-F, 10:30a-2p Sa
1 Galería Praxis Arte Internacional
DESCRIPTION: Founded in 1977, the gallery organizes
exhibitions, international events, biennials and auctions while
promoting up-and-coming artists. Its space is stocked with
an appreciable amount of renowned artists which are well
appraised by international collectors. Its expansion into other
Latin American countries took it all the way to New York.
Well-known for their international publishing house, it is also
recognised in prestigious catalogues such as those of the
Museum of the Americas in Washington and Christie's in
London. © wcities.com
wcities
13
contact:
2 Palais de Glace
tel: +54 11 48041163
fax: +54 11 48044324
http://www.artesur.com/links/p DESCRIPTION: The 'Palace de Glace' of French influence was
alais.htm
constructed for the sole purpose of practicing ice skating. With
location:
Posadas 1725
1112
hours:
2p–9p M–Su
contact:
tel: 54 11 4804 5959 / 54 11
4802 3023
fax: 54 11 4802 3023
http://www.lolarestaurant.com
/
location:
Roberto M. Ortiz 1805
Buenos Aires 1113
hours:
Daily noon-4p & 7p-1a
contact:
tel: +54 (0)11 5555 5359
http://www.ccborges.org.ar/
location:
Viamonte esquina San Martín
1053
hours:
Call for details
contact:
tel: +54 11 4361 1121
http://www.aamamba.org.ar/
location:
Avenida San Juan 350
1147
hours:
time, this place started welcoming tango dancers, an idea that
did not go down well with the elite crowd. When Baron de Marhi
organized a celebration in his gallery to approve the dance, this
form of art gained acceptance in the high Buenosarian society.
Thus it started growing in prestige until in 1932 it became a
museum and hall for exhibitions of matchless reputation with
the presence of artists such as Perez Célis. Its dance floor is
surrounded by theatre boxes and a confectionary and bar! ©
wcities.com
wcities
3 Lola
DESCRIPTION: A combination of classic, elegant and modern
decor, this place is considered to be one of the trendiest
restaurants in Buenos Aires. Celebrities from the world of
cinema and fashion frequent it, and it is the place to live it up
—an evening at "Lola" starts with a glass of champagne at the
bar. The works of Hermenegildo Sabat gracing the dining room
walls accent the French and European cuisine. Try the Nahuel
Trout with pine nuts, mushrooms and croquete potatoes; or
the tomato and vegetable mousse with crunchy celery. ©
wcities.com
Photo courtesy Lola
4 Centro Cultural Borges
DESCRIPTION: The fundamental intention is to present a
precise panorama of modern culture in a context of quality
and coherence. The visual arts, design and media are given
a space here in the arena of the Galerías Pacífico (Pacific
Shopping Gallery) without leaving aside the art of tango,
photography or fine arts. Exhibits, auctions and international
competitions are held here in this space named after the
Argentine literary icon, Jorge Luis Borges. There are scheduled
literary-café chats, music cycles and video projections. Julio
Bocca's dance studio is housed here as well. There is a gift
boutique, coffee shop and bookstore. © wcities.com
wcities
5 Museo de Arte Moderno
DESCRIPTION: Opened in 1989, the museum is set in what
once was a cigarette factory. It features a façade made of
English red brick and an enormous entrance door made of
wood and iron. It houses a fine collection of modern art (with
a Latin American slant) such as the panoramas of Pompeyo
Audivert´s, and Luis Seoane´s graphic works, as well as some
wcities
14
10a-8p Tu-F, 11a-8p Su &
holidays
contact:
tel: 54 11 4811 1108
http://www.granbardanzon.co
m.ar/
location:
Libertad 1161
Buenos Aires 1012
hours:
Mo to Fr from 07:00 PM to
03:00 AM,Sa to Su from
08:00 PM to 03:00 AM
contact:
tel: +54 11 4010 9000
fax: +54 11 4010 9001
http://www.faenahotelanduniv
erse.com
location:
Martha Salotti 445
Buenos Aires C1107BDA
1,500 art pieces among which are illustrations, scene sketches,
photographs, and tapestries. © wcities.com
6 Gran Bar Danzón
DESCRIPTION: This trendy establishment specializes in
fine wines served by the glass. There is a vast list of drinks,
cocktails and coffees, very original because of the combination
of ingredients used in their preparation, such as cinnamon,
chocolate and mint. The relaxed atmosphere is modern and
elegant, with comfortable sofas and pleasant music. The bar
serves more than 150 different alcoholic beverages. The food
selection is not vast, but nevertheless exquisite and of high
quality. A very cosmopolitan place where you can mingle with
the beautiful and the successful, or meet friends for a good
meal or drink. It stays quite busy until late hours. © wcities.com
Photo courtesy of Gran Bar Danzon,
7 Faena Hotel + Universe
DESCRIPTION: Eighteen carat gold leaf swan chairs and
deep red velvet curtains give you a glimpse of this fine hotel's
interiors. Be it a business trip, a vacation or special events,
the Faena Hotel and Universe is your perfect pick. A heavenly
melange of extraordinary service, excellent food, gracious
comfort and beautiful surroundings has earned this hotel
critical acclaim. With the dizzying array of facilities, services
and amenities, you're guaranteed of the most flawless stay. ©
wcities.com
wcities
15
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Most of the city sleeps on Sunday, but you ought to rise bright and early and walk across Puerto Madero to the bustling
Feria de San Telmo, the famed arts and antiques street fair. Catch a seat on the street-side white cushions at La Divina Comedia for a
tasty bite and the market’s best people-watching. Cross to the north end of San Telmo for a look into the labyrinth-like Manzana de las
Luces, the 17th century Jesuit refuge that houses the Mercado de las Luces, where local artisans vend their silver and copper jewelry,
hand-bound books, and leather products. For dinner tonight, try La Farmacia, the house-like former pharmacy-turned eclectic restaurant,
with bright red walls, moody lighting, and an assortment of funky paintings hanging on the walls. If the weather’s right, ask for a table on
the rooftop terrace. When it’s time to turn in for the last night, a room at the Design Suites Hotel in Barrio Norte awaits. The slick design,
featuring a reflecting pool in the center of the cement-and-glass lobby, is accented by rotating exhibitions by the artists from Galería
5006. All of the original works in the rooms are available for purchase as well, so be sure to inquire if something sparks your interest.
contact:
http://www.easybuenosairesc
ity.com/shopping.htm#Antigü
edades
location:
Dorrego Square
hours:
Su 10a-5p
San Pedro Telmo Antiques Fair
DESCRIPTION: The San Pedro Telmo Antiques Fair is held
every Sunday and the streets of charming San Telmo are
extremely lively during the fair. Tourists can have a gala
time, as there are tons of activities to choose from. Enjoy live
performances by musicians or tango with the dancers. If you
are in the mood for some shopping, check out the antiques and
handicrafts sold here. © wcities.com
paula moya
16
contact:
tel: 54 11 4300 2085
http://www.ladivinacomedia.c
om.ar
location:
Defensa 683
Buenos Aires
hours:
Su-Th 11a-1a, F 11a-4a, Sa
6p-4a
contact:
tel: +54 11 4342 9930
fax: +54 11 4342 6973
http://www.manzanadelasluce
s.gov.ar/
location:
Peru 272
1067
hours:
3p M-Sa, 3p-4:30p Su
contact:
tel: 54 11 4300 6151
www.lafarmaciarestobar.com
.ar
location:
Bolivar 898
Buenos Aires AR
hours:
M-F 5p-Close, Sa 9a-Close,
Su 10a-Close
contact:
tel: -11 4814 8700
www.designsuites.com/
location:
Alvear Marcelo T. De 1683
Buenos Aires 1060
1 La Divina Comedia
DESCRIPTION: This fashionable bi-level space, inspired by Dante's masterpiece, caters to both
the angel on your right shoulder and the devil whispering into your left ear. For an innocent café
con leche with gooey chocolate cake or fresh caprese salad, pull up a plush stool in the peaceful
sky-blue "heaven" upstairs. At night, indulge your sinful side in the dark red-hued "hell" downstairs,
where you'll find French DJs on the turntables and locals smoking and sipping champagne in
shadowy corners. On Sundays, there's no finer people-watching perch than La DC's outdoor
seating - the elegant white furnishings borrowed, naturally, from heaven. © wcities.com
2 Manzana de las Luces
DESCRIPTION: You will marvel at the 17th century architecture
of the Manzana de las Lucas and the mysterious underground
tunnels that worked as secret passages. Speculation regarding
the original use of these tunnels still remains! Its interesting
history began in 1675 with the construction of the Church
of San Ignacio and the Colegio de la Compañía by the
Jesuit monks. Meant to be a centre for higher learning, and
headquarters for Jesuit land holdings, the first medical school
was also set up here. © wcities.com
wcities
La Farmacia
DESCRIPTION: This fashionable, gay-friendly eatery and art space occupies an antique building
on the corner of a very desirable San Telmo intersection. Ascend the creaky wooden steps to find
cozy nooks with black polka-dot tablecloths, red walls, and dramatic track lighting illuminating
whimsical paintings. Succulent, unusual dishes like black spaghetti with seafood, trilla fish in white
wine sauce, and salmon-stuffed ravioli, all stylishly presented on square white ceramic plates,
evoke exclamations from the diverse clientele. Try to snag a table by one of the wrought iron
balconies, complete with charming original glass panes, for choice views of the busy street below.
© wcities.com
3 Design Suites Buenos Aires
DESCRIPTION: Overlooking a bustling square, this Buenos
Aires hotel is one block from Santa Fe Avenue and Callao
Avenue. Design Suites guestrooms offer contemporary
furnishings and hardwood floors. Large windows allow plenty of
light. The hotel offers a restaurant and lounge, an indoor pool
with a skylight, and complimentary access to a nearby gym.
Hotels.com
17
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: The last week of May brings the annual internationally-acclaimed art fair, ArteBA, which takes place in the vast La Rural
complex in Plaza Italia. Every major gallery from Latin America is represented, all of the local celebrities make appearances (last year
Cristina Kirchner popped in), and the champagne flows freely. Allow plenty of time to see the fair, and don’t bother with the map – you’ll
get lost in the maze of booths regardless. If you aren’t totally wiped out after that whirlwind art fest, hop on the metro in Plaza Italia
and take it a few stops to Juramento in Belgrano, to the Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta. Larreta, the Argentine writer, lived in
this Spanish Renaissance-style palace during his lifetime, creating a divine space for displaying his collection of 16th and 17th century
artworks. The museum is free on Thursdays, but will barely break the bank during the rest of the week with its AR$1 admission fee. Grab
your lunch at Filo, the funky lunchtime hotspot in Microcentro that serves up some of the best bread and pizza in town, freshly baked
in the giant clay oven in the back of the restaurant. From here you can walk down to the Fundación Federico Jorge Klemm, where the
quirky collection ranges from Andy Warhol to Jeff Koons to Giorgio de Chirico, along with tons of works by contemporary Latin American
artists. Pass on to the MALBA, Buenos Aires’ contemporary art pride and joy. The 3 museum levels present visitors with just enough
major works to feel satisfied without becoming overwhelmed. Check the museum schedule to see what independent and art house
films are playing in the theater, and make sure to drop into the MALBA shop, to see what kinds of purchasable creations local designers
are coming up with. Take a break from the established artists at the Premio a Jóvenes Pintores, a competition for emerging Argentine
painters, held at the Palais de Glace. Sit down for a multi-course dinner at Tomo I in the Hotel Panamericano, where ethnic cuisinethemed weeks, such as Indian and Tuscan, take place occasionally. Here every last detail, down to the presentation, is considered,
making the final product a piece of art in itself.
18
contact:
tel: +54 11 47844040 / +54 11
47832640
http://www.museos.buenosair
es.gov.ar/museos/espanol_G
.htm
location:
Juramento 2291
1428
hours:
3p-7p Mon-Tue, Fri; 3p-7:45p
Sat-Sun
contact:
tel: 54 11 4311 0312
http://www.filo-ristorante.com/
location:
San Martín 975
Buenos Aires 1004
hours:
12p-2a Mon-Sat
1 Museo de Arte Español ¨Enrique
Larreta¨
DESCRIPTION: Located in an area that was once home
to summer vacationers, this museum has a style unique to
Buenos Aires. Here, one cannot escape the roar of the Moorish
fountains. Mercedes Castellanos de Anchorena acquired
it in 1892. Later she donated the museum to her daughter,
Josefina, upon her marriage to Enrique Larreta (1873-1961).
The museum became Larreta's permanent residence, where
he would work and live until his death on July 6, 1961. After this
date, the city purchased the property and founded the Museum
of Spanish Art. The building's neocolonial architecture is truly
representative of Argentina's national identity. Its exterior is a
classic Baroque style, with the simplicity of its walls contrasting
with its intricate facades. © wcities.com
wcities
2 Filo
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:
Filo has spectacular Italian-style thin-crust
pizzas - don't hesitate to order one or try a few to
accompany your cocktails.
DESCRIPTION: Filo is one of the bars with more scotch
varieties in Buenos Aires (67, so far). Among its clientele are
a crowd of intellectuals, bohemians, and the crowd of Filo
regulars (an almost mythical spot in Buenos Aires). Recent
visitors include Fura del Baus and Madonna (who showed up
undercover, of course). Happy hour for all alcoholic beverages,
and the ambience never lacks a touch of jazz. And don't miss
the art gallery in the basement. © wcities.com
hyperbolation
contact:
3 Fundación Federico Jorge Klemm
tel: +54 (0)11 4312 4443 / +54
(0)11 4312 3334
http://www.fundacionfjklemm. DESCRIPTION: Federico Klemm's Foundation exhibits retrospectives
org
and group shows and is active both locally and internationally. With a view
location:
Marcelo T de Alvear 626
1058
hours:
Call for details
to joining the philosophical and aesthetic theories of art, Klemm has set
it upon himself to stimulate young talent through announcing different
cultural events and activities through his television broadcasts and
publications. The foundation has a permanent collection of works including
Botero, Rivera, Forner, Picasso and Xul Solar, among others. There is a
large space in the back for auctions and seminars. The facilities, lighting
and ventilation system are optimum. © wcities.com
wcities
19
contact:
tel: +54 11 4808 6500
fax: +54 11 4808 6598
http://www.malba.org.ar/web/
location:
Avenida Figueroa Alcorta
3415
C1425CLA
contact:
tel: 54 11 4326 6698
fax: 54 11 4326 6695
http://www.tomo1.com.ar/
location:
Carlos Pellegrini 521
Buenos Aires 1009
hours:
Lunch: M-F noon-3p, Dinner:
M-Sa 7:30p-1a
4 Museo de Arte Latinoamericano
de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
DESCRIPTION: Founded in 2001 and started with just
the permanent collection owned by its director, Eduardo
Constantini, MALBA aims at promoting Latin American art
in all its disciplines. Constantini donated to this post-modern
gallery works of art that take us on a journey through the
history of Spanish American art, from the beginning of its avantgarde movement at the turn of the century to the present. The
collection is arranged in such a way to expose the similarities
as well as the differences between the artists, other than in
chronological order. There are workshops, children activities,
temporary exhibitions and work experience for students. Own
car park. Free admission. © wcities.com
lrargerich
5 Tomo I
DESCRIPTION: Ada Concaro is the powerhouse behind
the history and development of this establishment. She is
renowned for her creativity in turning typical homemade dishes
into edible works of art. The restaurant boasts a sunlit room
with a good view. Quiet and spacious surroundings enhance
the dining experience. Some inventive menu items include:
spaghetti au gratin with olive oil, capers, anchovies and olives;
cream of zucchini and pine nuts; lamb with artichokes; pickled
aubergenes; shrimp chupe (a typical spicy soup with shrimps)
and chicken liver with pistachios. The spinach ravioli with
tomato sauce, butter and sage, and the warm pear pie both
stand out. There is an optional bistro menu, consisting of a
starter, a main course, wine and coffee, all at a fixed price.
Should you prefer to order a la carte. Advanced booking
recommended. Air-conditioned. © wcities.com
wcities
20
Buenos Aires Snapshot
History
Ports are doorways, and the history of
Buenos Aires can best be entered through
its port."The Port City", as the colonizers
called it, allowed commerce into a region so
vast that it reached the lands of what is now
Perú.
On February 2, 1536, the conqueror Don
Pedro de Mendoza arrived by land at
the coast of Buenos Aires. His mission
was to populate the lands of the Rio de
la Plata, which were of great interest to
the Spanish crown. Mendoza christened
the city Espíritu Santo and named its port
Nuestra Señora del Buen Aire. He was
faced with food scarcities and hostilities
from the indigenous people that stifled his
progress. For these reasons, he decided to
leave and return to Spain.
Nearly 40 years later, Juan de Garay
arrived on a second attempt: on May 29,
1580, he made the second founding. Garay
and his crew began working to organize the
city. They selected the highest ground as
a defensive point against potential attacks.
The acclaimed monument, Palo de la
Justicia, was built on what today is the la In
addition, they organized the Cabildo, which
was the highest administrative institution,
and they erected a church where the
Metropolitan Cathedral now stands. The
city was then named Santísima Trinidad,
and its port, Santa María de los Buenos
Aires.
Not until the 18th Century and the creation
of the viceroyalty did Buenos Aires cease
to be a village. The first viceroy of the
transformation, Juan José de Vértiz,
installed street lamps, cobblestones and the
first printing press. The fort was used as the
seat of the viceroy, located on the site of the
current government offices. Another point
of reference from this era is the church of
San Ignacio. Constructed by the Jesuits, it
is one of the oldest buildings in the city.
Buenos Aires played an essential role as
the main connecting port for goods between
the New World and Europe. Tempted by the
growing business of the port, the English
tried to take control of the river, invading the
city of Buenos Aires in 1806 and 1807. Both
attempts failed.
In 1810, with King Fernando VII in prison
and the Seville council in French hands, the
town of Buenos Aires rose up in the famous
May Revolution. The people revoked the
viceroy's title, and on May 25, the First
Government Council was formed with
Cornelio Saavedra presiding. This was the
first step toward the independence of the
provinces of the Rio de la Plata, proclaimed
on July 9, 1816. This date is still celebrated
as Argentina's most important national
holiday.
action. In addition, he redistributed the
nation's wealth, and the state took control of
public services. Another feature of Perón's
government was the growing publicity of
his wife, Eva Duarte and the myth of the
eternal"Evita" asking for Argentina not to
cry for her. From the offices of the Ministry
of Labor, Evita personally sought aid for the
poor through social welfare.
Buenos Aires grew. In 1857 the first
railroads appeared, in 1865, the streetcars,
and in 1876, the first shipment of wheat
left for Europe. The bonanza prompted the
declaration of Buenos Aires as the country's
capital(1880). The city extended from what
is now the Plaza Once to the Riachuelo
River.
But the role of Evita was always
controversial.Los Descamisados("the
shirtless ones"), as she called the poor,
adored her to the extent of giving up their
lives for her. The upper classes, on the
other hand, considered her an opportunist
blinded by power. In 1952, during her
husband's second presidency, Evita fell
victim to cancer. In 1955, the military
overthrew Perón, and he was banished
to Madrid. After 18 years in exile, Perón
returned to power in 1973. One year later,
upon the death of Perón, the presidency
reverted his new wife Isabel. The country
was submerged in social violence, and the
government's disarray led to another coup
d'état.
The Romantic style and the latest Art
Nouveau design from the old continent
began to appear in buildings such as
the Children's Hospital and the Escuela
Normal de Maestras. The typical Buenos
Aires tenement houses orconventillos that
housed the European immigrants clashed
with the new palaces. Slowly, Buenos Aires
had grown from a small port town into a
large city that emulated the cities of Europe,
and European immigrants fed this growth.
First arrived the Italians and the Spanish,
the majority of whom were poor farmers.
Afterward came the Jews, Poles, Croats,
Czechs and Ukrainians, among others.
In the beginning, immigration policies were
very liberal, but with time, the pretentious
Argentine oligarchy decided to close its
doors to all but Northern Europeans, which
led to the English arriving in numbers. They
were bankers, office workers, engineers
and financial experts. They designed the
railroad network, and their architectural
designs were stamped across train stations
and the docks of the port. In 1895, 72 out
of every 100 Buenos Aires inhabitants were
foreigners.
Two main events characterized 20thcentury Argentina: successive military
coups commanded by theFuerzas Armadas
and the birth of a native political movement
known as Peronism.
The leader of this movement, Juan
Domingo Perón, was elected president
three times. He rose to power in 1946
with the support of the lower classes and
the labor unions. With him, the lower
classes were able to participate in political
Among all of Argentina's 20th-century
dictatorships, that of 1976 was the worst.
The military named Jorge Videla president
and supreme commander of the three
Armed Forces. He devised a plan to
combat the subversive elements of the
population(the extreme right and left of the
political spectrum). The military created a
sort of terrorist state and used it to control
and persecute political dissidents. The
military kidnapped children, assassinated
people and left 30,000 people missing.
Even today, relatives still search for their
loved ones.
In 1982, Argentina declared war against
England for sovereignty of the Falkland
Islands, in order to justify the continuation
of the military's political plan. The war
ended with the defeat of Argentine forces.
This episode served to end the dictatorship
and marked the return of democracy to
Argentina. Human rights organizations
started to demand information about
missing people, and political parties began
campaigns and designated presidential
candidates. Five million people showed up
at the polls, making clear the population's
desire to participate in democratic elections.
On December 10, 1983, Raúl Alfonsín
assumed the presidency and was handed
21
Buenos Aires Snapshot continued
a nation in total turmoil. During his time in
office, he prosecuted the military juntas.
The courts condemned the leaders, but
the ratification of the laws ofPunto Final
andObediencia Debida granted freedom
for the lower-ranking officials. Afterwards
came the pardons of President Carlos
Menem. Today, most of the leaders who
participated in the coup d'état of 1976
remain at large, but are still wanted on
international charges. The Argentine courts
continue to investigate them on charges of
illegal appropriation of minors.
©
Hotel Insights
Buenos Aires offers a wide variety of
accommodations in distinct neighborhoods
throughout the city; from classic hotels
that combine grandiose historical touches
with modern infrastructure to personalized
boutique hotels to youthful party-centric
hostels simple lodgings for the occasional
tourist or the restless adventurer, the huge
number of lodging options in town can be
overwhelming. Many of the city's classic
hotels are now owned by international
chains, upping the standard of guest
attention and comfort.
Recoleta
For travelers who want to stay close to fine
museums and restaurants, check out hotels
in Recoleta: one of the more expensive and
exclusive neighborhoods in Buenos Aires,
known for its leafy manicured avenues
and upscale shopping. The Caesar Park
gets high marks and any person strolling
down Calle Posadas will be impressed
with its classic European exterior. Inside,
the glass cupola lets in ample sunlight and
affords a view of the surrounding foliage.
Since 1932, the Alvear Palace Hotel has
been impressing visitors and is regarded
as one of the best hotels in the city; don’t
miss the extravagant afternoon tea service.
For old-world elegance and comfort, there
is the wonderfully spacious Hotel Plaza
Fráncia and the equally charming Etoile
Hotel, which has a jacuzzi in each room.
Combining luxury and sophistication with a
touch of French style is the Kempinski Hotel
Park Plaza; the hotel is a stone’s throw from
one of the most upscale shopping centers
in Buenos Aires, Patio Bullrich.
Also in Recoleta is the majestic Four
Seasons, which occupies the Alzaga Unzué
palace. Construction of this building, which
flanks one end of Avenida 9 de Julio, began
in 1916 during a flourishing period of urban
and economic growth, and the interior
of this French-style mansion evokes the
memory of the old Argentine aristocracy.
A modern apart-tower, constructed by the
hotel in recent years, has luxury suites that
have hosted such international celebrities
as Madonna, Michael Jackson, and the
Rolling Stones. For those looking for an
alternative lodging experience, try the
high-end contemporary boutique hotel, CE
Design. A tall narrow tower of concrete,
glass and steel, the hotel has a swish bar
and dipping pool on the basement level.
Creative types might try the spacious,
terraced Art Hotel apart suites.
El Centro
While downtown Buenos Aires is mainly
known as the city’s business district, there
is no shortage of perfectly amenable
accommodations and nearby entertainment
and transportation options for practical
travelers. The Claridge was built during
Argentina’s glamorous belle époque years
in the first quarter of the 20th century, a
beautiful symbol of that era's architecture
and the city's first five-star hotel. The
grandeur of the hotel was commemorated
by a prize in 1992 for best historical façade
in Buenos Aires. The historic employeerun Bauen Hotel offers amenable, 1970sretro rooms in a delightfully Socialist-tinged
atmosphere. For a more customized hotel
experience, give the small, stylish, no-fuss
Tryp Buenos Aires a try.
Retiro
Long thought a hub for business travelers
and conventioneers for its proximity to the
statuesque Estación Retiro train station and
wealth of business hotels like the enormous
Sheraton Hotel& Convention Center, the
central Retiro district has undergone a
revival in recent years and is now home to
stylish boutique hotels, design and fashion
shops, and swish dining spots and watering
holes that offer a variety of options for all
types of travelers.
The neighborhood’s shining star is the leafy,
sprawling Plaza San Martín, surrounded
by elegant buildings, including the 325room luxury Marriott Plaza Hotel, complete
with the classic Plaza Bar, always open
to the public and well worth a happy hour
martini. The Sheraton Libertador Hotel,
the less corporate sister to the convention
center, features one of the most popular
restaurants in the city, La Pergola. The
gorgeous Sofitel Buenos Aires is welllocated on Calle Arroyo, Retiro’s main art
drag and the site for the occasional Gallery
Nights open-air art events.
Independent, green-minded travelers might
check into Casa Calma, a New Age-type
accommodation with jacuzzis and saunas in
each room. Families have two great options
in the area, the Lafayette Hotel and the
Hotel Diplomat. Both are moderately priced
and offer great continental breakfasts.
Monserrat
The beautiful, crumbling buildings of
Monserrat give an old-world charm
to the area, which lies conveniently
between charming San Telmo and
bustling downtown and is home to several
prime options for accommodations. The
minimalist art deco Moreno Hotel offers
boutique, personalized lodging and access
to the tranquil garden or rooftop terrace.
The beautiful best-kept secret of the
neighborhood is the 1820s home-turnedhotel La Cayetana, where rooms sport
exposed brick walls and excellent views of
the leafy garden.
The Intercontinental is one of the city’s
larger, moderately-priced options, ideal
for corporate types and with full use of
the spa and gym for guests. For tango
enthusiasts, the Gran Hotel Hispano and
the Concorde Hotel are both conveniently
located near many tango halls in this, one
of the original tango districts. Two hotels
located on picturesque Avenida de Mayo
are the Gran Hotel Vedra and the Astoria
Hotel, a comfortable place to take the
family.
Palermo
Posh Palermo is a favorite landing pad for
many of Buenos Aires’ visitors- Palermo
Viejo in particular is ideal for its hip
shopping, dining, drinking, and clubbing
options on every block. Cool upscale
lodging in this area is a cinch; visitors only
have to decide whether they prefer the
wholly personalized attention at Tailor Made
Hotel, the swish luxury at Legado Mitico, or
the funky artists’ touches at Craft Hip Hotel.
Grab evening cocktails poolside on the
rooftop terrace at Nuss, and reserve early
for Sunday brunch in Home Hotel’s tranquil
garden. Looking for something really
unique? Take over an entire level of award-
22
winning director Francis Ford Coppola’s
private residence-turned boutique bed and
breakfast, Jardin Escondido, complete
with customized regional wine selections
and a peek into the maestro’s own DVD
collection.
© NileGuide
Restaurants Insights
Three hundred years after its second
founding in 1580, the port city of Buenos
Aires started to thrive on the banks of therío
de la Plata. Over this 25-kilometer(15mile) slope, the city grew and developed,
especially in the areas of fine food
production, and meat and grain export.
The diversity of immigrants who settled in
Buenos Aires brought a variety of cultures
and, of course, flavors to the region.
Like any bustling metropolitan city,
Buenos Aires offers a broad array of
dining options. The city is now host to an
increasing number of Asian and European
restaurants, but is still best known for
itsparrillas(steak houses) and Italian
restaurants. Pizza is as popular here as
in any college dorm room. There are a
few other things one should keep in mind
about dining in Argentina. Breakfast usually
consists ofmedialunas(mini croissants with
powdered sugar), or other small pastries,
and coffee of course. Americans expecting
bacon and eggs will be ridiculed. The
most popular time to go out to dinner is
probably between 8:30p and 10p. Wines
are very common, especially the local
red Malbec, which is bold and smooth,
often inexpensive, and goes well with
many different meals. Coffee is as popular
as wine. Most waiters speak English
and often Italian. For dessert,dulce de
leche(caramel) is king. Don't forget to try
a cup of maté(traditional Argentine tea),
which is as essential to Argentina's culinary
culture as the famous Argentine beef.
Puerto Madero
Parrillas are like enormous steak houses
that throw every cut on the grill, and they
are some of the best and most well-known
restaurants in the city. Siga La Vaca is
a great place for a large group. One flat
fee and you get all you can eat beef, side
dishes and enough wine to draw a bath.
Another option on the beautiful docks is
the Spettus Steak House. Specialty dishes
vary, but the best thing to do is ask the
chef what the best-looking cut of beef is for
the day and you won't be steered wrong.
One note of caution: be careful what you
order because they will serve you parts
of the cow you probably thought weren't
edible. If you're not in the mood for steak
after mulling that over, try Pizza Banana.
They offer pizzas with some outrageous
fruit and seafood toppings. Don't forget to
comfortable shoes because the dance floor
gets crowded in the evenings. Also check
out Katrine, where the pastas are sublime
and the salmon with shrimp and vegetables
is a special treat.
San Telmo
San Telmo is another neighborhood known
for its restaurants, but the real focus is on
tango. Often these two go hand-in-hand as
dinner precedes a music or dance show.
San Telmo has a reputation for being a bit
touristy and consequently being overpriced,
but there is still a lot to see and taste here.
At La Trastienda, you can order a few
empanadas and watch actors, dancers or
musicians, depending on the day. For an
Japanese treat, Kitayama is an elegant
restaurant that serves traditional Japanese
cuisine- first and foremost, sushi. La Divina
Comedia is as much a social destination as
it is a restaurant, very much in accordance
with the Argentine way.
Recoleta
Recoleta is the most refined neighborhood
in Buenos Aires. Some of the most
renowned international dining spots are
located here. The famous La Biela is a very
traditional café/bar with a lot of local flavor,
especially suitable for racing fans. It was
once a mecca for racing aficionados and
has since retained much of that appeal.
For a decidedly upscale outing, Lola is
the perfect choice. One of the trendiest
places in Buenos Aires, Lola serves
contemporary French and European cuisine
and is adorned with the artistic works of
Hermenegildo Sabat. Champagne is a
must, as is the Nahuel Trout with Pine Nuts.
For something less ostentatious, there is
Circolo Italiano, which offers lots of different
dishes, all reasonably priced, including a
tantalizing mushroom risotto.
Palermo
Palermo is probably the hottest area in
Buenos Aires. There are lots of young
people, lots of new bars, and yes,
restaurants springing up left and right. El
Trapiche is great for large groups, but don't
be surprised if you have to wait- this place
is constantly crowded. Another option is
Katmandú for Nepalese/Indian food and
an intimate atmosphere. Or try Thymus for
characteristically classy French cuisine,
including spicy grilled deer, at surprisingly
low prices.
La Boca
Barrica Restaurante& Bistrot, which
also features live tango, is located in
this neighborhood famous for its Italian
immigrants. For tapas along the seafront
try La Ribera where you can try some spicy
seafood and right near the crafts market.
Belgrano
Mexican food can be hard to come by
in the city, but Frida Kahlo in Belgrano
serves tasty tacos and lots of tequila.
Nearby Sucre offers a more stylish dining
experience, but you'll need a bit more
cash. There are also plenty of economical
restarants that serve wonderful food and
great wines, try Zurich Confitería, a place
where the young hang out and Oviedo,
where you can search through a list of
international wines.
Centro
A classic tourist destination is Café Tortoni
in the incomparable plaza de Mayo. Coffee
and pastry dishes here are popular, but
the classic decor is the real selling point.
Not to mention loads of wine and regular
tango and jazz shows. Famous politicians
and literary figures used to frequent this
famous spot, which is rumored to be the
oldest café in Buenos Aires. And for those
looking for a pint of Guinness, go to Temple
Bar, named after the Dublin neighborhood.
For a traditional setting, try Asador La
Estancia, this restaurant serves food in the
style of thegaucho or the Argentine cowboy.
It has been in business for 30 years and
regarded as an institution. The most visited
Italian restaurant in the downtown area is
Broccolino, a place where the multi-lingual
staff will certainly help you decide on one
the tasty plates. If you would like to have
your tarot read while waiting for your drinks,
go to Memorabilia, an eccentric restaurant
that specializes in pizza.
©
23
Nightlife Insights
Buenos Aires has everything you expect
from a large cosmopolitan city, including
fabulous round-the-clock entertainment
options.
Art
Art galleries are found scattered throughout
the capital. In Recoleta, the Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes displays a
permanent exhibition of Argentine works.
The Centro Cultural Recoleta houses art
from all over the world. Modern paintings
and sculptures can be found across the
street in the Palais de Glace. Towards
the north end of the city, the Palermo
neighborhood boasts the Museo Nacional
de Arte Decorativo, the Museo de Arte
Popular José Hernández, and the Museo
de Artes Plásticas. Further north, in the
charming Belgrano district, there is the
Museo de Arte Español. All of these
museums and galleries display both
permanent and temporary exhibits, in
addition to hosting conferences, classes,
musical and theatrical performances, and
guided tours.
Movies
Two streets, Corrientes and Lavalle, have
the majority of the city's traditional movie
theaters, although there are many U.S.style theater complexes inside malls and
shopping centers like the Alto Palermo
Shopping and the Abasto de Buenos Aires.
All but children's movies are shown in their
original languages with subtitles. Certain
venues show uncommon and alternative
films, including the Sala Leopoldo Lugones.
Check the local newspapers or their
Internet movie listings to get the current
schedules.
Dance
The sultry cadence and moves of the
tango can be seen in many of the bars
located in the San Telmo district, including
El Viejo Almacén, the Bar Sur and Tango
Taconeando. For those wishing to learn
a few a steps, there are many dance
halls spread around the city, such as
the La Viruta Tango Bar and La Beba in
Palermo. In Belgrano, there is La Diabla
and downtown there is La Academia
Nacional del Tango.
In addition, Buenos Aires has flamenco, folk
music, salsa, merengue, samba, rock& roll
and hip-hop classes or dance halls spread
around the city.
Museums
Historic and theme museums abound
throughout the city. These include the
Museo Histórico Nacional, on the Parque
Lezama; and the Museo del Cabildo in
front of the presidential palace, which
has its own museum, the Museo de la
Casa de Gobierno. Other museums of
interest include the Museo Etnográfico, the
Carlos Gardel Museum, the Museo Judío
de Buenos Aires, the Natural Sciences
Museum, the Puppet Museum, the Film
Museum, the Museo de Cera, and a
recent addition, the National Museum of
Man. Caminito in La Boca neighborhood
is clearly an open-air museum of its
own. Lastly, visit the floating Fragata
Sarmiento Museum, moored in Dock 3
by the promenade in the chic San Telmo
district.
Music
All year round, Buenos Aires tango music
thrives at Viejo Almacén, La Ventana,
Señor Tango and Tango Taconeando, all
in the San Telmo district. Brazilian music
prevails at Maluco Beleza on Sarmiento.
Government-sponsored open-air shows
take place at different plazas throughout the
city. The San Martín Cultural Center hosts
musical performances, including classical,
opera and national music. Rock concerts
featuring famous international artists are
often held in the River Plate Stadium and
the Bombonera and the famous Luna Park.
Café Tortoni is famous for its tango and jazz
shows held in the café's cellar.
Theaters
Dozens of theaters can be found
throughout Buenos Aires offering a little
taste of everything. The Gran Rex hosts
top musical shows. The Teatro Cervantes
is an architectural masterpiece, while
the Teatro Municipal General San Martín
is more modern and avant garde in its
presentations. Cultural centers include the
Centro Ricardo Rojas, the Centro Cultural
Recoleta and the Teatro de la Ribera in La
Boca. Others of interest include the Teatro
Maipo, along with alternative theaters like
La Trastienda.
Cafes, Bars& Nightlife
As legendary as Prague's café society,
Buenos Aires is a paradise for Bohemian
lifestyles. The whole city seems to enjoy the
burst of creativity a demitasse of espresso
can provide. Here too, coffeehouses have
been meeting points for famous poets,
politicians and even revolutionaries. Las
Violetas is a historic cafe and Café Tortoni
has preserved its original style.
In the administrative district, foreigners
popularized Happy Hour, especially in
the Irish and English pubs around Retiro
district. This includes the The Shamrock.
Hot nightlife defines the city, and most
establishments stay open until the wee
hours. Some of the hotspots include
La Trastienda in San Telmo; La Ideal in
downtown; Caix and Pizza Banana around
the Costanera area. Tango is found in
the districts of San Telmo and La Boca,
flamenco in Palermo, and salsa throughout
the city. As in Spain, people start hitting the
dance floors after midnight. Most clubs and
bars stay open until daybreak, as do some
restaurants and pizzerias.
©
Things to Do Insights
Put on your best shoes and prepare
yourself for a stroll into Buenos Aires!
Whether you tour the city on your own or
take a guided tour, you'll be sure to find
creative and fascinating entertainment and
people. One of the best ways to explore the
city is to go to one location and explore the
area close to the attraction.
Plaza de Mayo
Every side of the Plaza de Mayo contains
an essential piece of history. You'll find the
monument Pirámide de Mayo, the Catedral
Metropolitana and the National Bank of
Argentina. Along busy Bolívar street lies the
historic Colegio Nacional de Buenos Aires
and the San Ignacio Basilica. You can also
find Manzana de las Luces"block of lights,"
at the intersection of Calle Perú. If you get
hungry stop by world famous Café Tortoni,
full of history and popular with both tourists
and locals. For lunch, dinner and a tango
show, El Querandí is highly recommended.
Recoleta Cemetery
Visit the famous City of the Dead at
Cementerio de la Recoleta where the
remains of Evita and other celebrities lie
here. Close by is the Plaza Francia and
the Centro Cultural Recoleta, an avant
garde cultural center. Across the park in
24
opposite directions you will find the Palais
de Glace and the Museo Nacional de Bellas
Artes. Take a break in one of the outdoor
cafes surrounding the plaza. La Biela and
Café de La Paix both offer great people
watching.
Kallpa Tour(+ 54 11 4394 1830/ http://
www.kallpatour.com/)
©
Teatro Municipal General San Martín
Getting There
Drop by the Teatro Municipal General
San Martín, renowned for the quality of its
shows and plays. You can also seek the
Bohemian lifestyle in Retiro district bars
such as Seddon and Filo. You can also
enjoy changing exhibits, classes and shows
at Centro Cultural Borges. For avant-garde
art head to Fundación Federico Jorge
Klemm.
By Air
Plaza Dorrego
Located in the historic San Telmo district,
Plaza Dorrego is the famous location of
the swearing of National Independence in
1816. Every Sunday the plaza holds a San
Telmo Antiques Fair where you can shop as
well as enjoy live music and performances.
Nearby Museo Histórico Nacional is one of
the oldest museums in the country and has
interesting exhibits. For authentic tango,
great music and dance performances, go to
Viejo Almacén. On a hot day stop by Nonna
Bianca for a cool treat.
Buenos Aires is a fantastic city to explore
on your own, with friendly locals and an
interesting attraction on practically every
corner. However, if you want to learn more
about an attraction's significance and
history, then a guided tour may be your
answer. There are a lot of tours you can
choose from.
Walking Tours Buenos Aires Tours( http://
www.buenostours.com/buenos-aires-tours)
BA Walking Tours( + 54 11 15 5773 1001/
http://www.ba-walking-tours.com/)
Bus Tours Hotel Inter-Continental City
Tour( + 54 11 4340 7100) Gray Line(+ 54
11 4375 1976/ http://www.grayline.com/
Grayline/destinations/latinamerica/
buenosaires.go)
Specialty Tours Artists' Atelier
Tour( + 54 11 4814 8700/ http://
www.galeriadearte5006.com.ar/) Taste
of Argentina( + 1 800 670 6984/ http://
www.mythsandmountains.com/)
Outside the City Tours Amazing
Argentina Tours( +1 800 704 2915/
http://www.amazingargentina.net/)
Travel Tips
If you are descending into Buenos Aires
from outside Argentina, you will touch down
at Ministro Pistarini International Airport,
more commonly know as the Ezeiza
Airport, which resides 34 kilometers(21
miles) from the city center. All domestic
flights fly into Aeroparque Metropolitano
Jorge Newbery(AEP), but unless you are
coming to Buenos Aires from another
Argentinean city by air, you will never
see this place. The relatively small Ezeira
Airport has three terminals, although
Aerolíneas Argentinas(the national airline)
takes up one(B) and the other is private(C).
Thus, all international airlines taxi up to
Terminal A. The selection of retail outlets,
including duty free shops, and restaurants
and cafes is modest, but you won't go
hungry and will be able to take home plenty
of last minute impulse buy souvenirs. A
post office, ATMs and a currency exchange
bank are also in terminal A.
an official cab there. Most rides take 45
minutes and fares start at USD30.
Bus: You can catch a bus with Manuel
Tinadal Leon(+54 11 5480 0374/ http://
www.tiendaleon.com.ar/) every 30 minutes
from 6a-1:30a. A single one way fare into
downtown costs USD18-USD32. The
company also has a fleet ofremise(town
cars, minicabs and limos) to get you to
the Capital Federal in style. Prices start
at USD48. Transfer Express(+54 11 4852
6776) and VIP Car(+54 11 5480 4590) also
haveremise service.
Car Rentals: Car hire companies have
desks in Terminal A on the ground level.
For the drive into town take the General
Ricchieri Expressway northeast and exit at
Avenida 9 de Julio. Turn north from there
to hit downtown. Car rental companies
include:
Localzia(+54 11 4480 0431/ http://
www.localiza.com.ar/) Dollar(+54 11 4315
8800/ http://www.dollarcar.com/) Annie
Millet/Hertz(+54 11 4480 0054/ http://
www.milletrentacar.com.ar/) Avis(+54 11
4480 9387/ http://www.avis.com/)
By Bus
Air France(+1 800 237 2747/ http://
www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia(+1 800
223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/)
American Airlines(+1 800 433 7300/
http://www.aa.com/) British Airways(+1
800 217 9297/ http://www.ba.com/)
Lufthansa(+1 800 803 5838/ http://
www.lufthansa.com/) United(+1 800 864
8331/ http://www.ual.com/)
Close to 100 companies covering all of
Argentina and most of the other countries
on the continent compete for business at
the city's massive bus station, Estación
Terminal de Omnibus. Make sure you book
on a"diferencial" bus, which is usually a
comfortable double decker, with cushy
seats that recline, an onboard restroom,
snack service and the all important bar for
the long distances in between destinations.
Fares are a bit more than on"comun"
buses(which translates to miserable trip on
a bus with no shocks and seats that make
school buses seem cozy), but the extra cost
if more than worth it, especially if the trip is
lengthy.
From the Airport
By Water
Taxi: You will quickly know all about the
taxi services at the airport as droves of
anxious drivers beg for fares inside the
arrivals area, especially in terminal A,
where international flights pull in. Haggling
is an art form with these guys and you
might just get a cheap fare into town or you
might end up mugged. If you would rather
do things by the book(the wise choice), find
a taxi desk(+54 11 4295 5760) and book
Several cruise lines navigate the Rio de la
Plata from the Atlantic Ocean and call at
the Puerto Buenos Aries(+54 11 4342 1727/
http://www.puertobuenosaires.gov.ar/).
The port is literally the gateway to the
central city, so tourists have minimal
ground to cover. Ferries and hydrofoils
managed by Ferrylineas(+54 11 4314
4580/ http://www.ferryturismo.com.uy/)
and Buquebus(+54 11 4316 6500/ http://
www.buquebus.com/) link the port with
various cities in Uruguay.
Ministro Pistarini International
Airport(EZE)+54 11 5480 6111http://
www.aa2000.com.ar/
Major airlines at Ezeiza include:
25
Getting Around
Train
Public Transport
If you are hankering to explore the suburbs,
six private commuter rail lines managed
by various companies including Trenes
Buenos Aires(+54 11 4317 4400/ http://
www.tbanet.com.ar/) will give you a taste of
residential life in the city.
©
The Subte(subway/underground)(+54 11
4959 6800/ http://www.metrovias.com.ar/)
is the oldest in Latin America dating back
to 1913, and most of the five lines have
not been extended an inch since. But the
system is still safe, cheap and efficient and
stops near most tourist happy areas.
The colectivos(a.k.a. city buses)
(www.loscolectivos.com.ar) make up a
hodgepodge of buses traversing to all
points of the city. Generally the system is
a positive and inexpensive complement
to the Subte, but before you jump in head
first, make sure you pick up a network map.
Routes can be bewildering and it doesn't
take much to end up someplace you never
intended to visit. Many buses operate 24
hours.
Car
Driving around the city is the last thing
you want to do if enjoying your stay in
Buenos Aries is the ultimate goal. Roads
can be baffling and the drivers seem to
make up the rules on the fly, but if you
happen to have a vehicle to investigate
the outer regions of the country, then seek
out a car park while you are in town and
take to the streets on foot or utilize public
transportation. Herds of taxis rove the
streets searching for fares and for the
most part hailing one is safe, but there
are always stories here or there about
the tourist who was stiffed or the taxi that
was jacked. Basically, if you have a bad
feeling, just do not get in the cab, or call
to have one pick you up from the likes of
City Taxi(+54 11 4585 5544) or Radio Taxi
Pidalo(+54 11 4956 1200).
Fun Facts
1. Random fact: The standard greeting
in Argentina is a kiss on one cheek; men
kiss women and vice versa, women kiss
women, and men kiss men, whether
meeting for the very first time or having
already seen one another several times
in the same day. Note that failing to greet
each person in a group with a kiss is
considered rude.
2. The official Argentine currency is the
peso. There are bills of 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and
100 pesos, and coins of 1 peso and 1, 5,
10, 25, and 50 cents. A major shortage of
coins in Buenos Aires results
3. Fun fact: The tango originated in brothels
in the immigrant ghetto of Buenos Aires in
the late 19th century, in what is the presentday harbor of La Boca. Various other
folkloric dances popped up in other parts of
Argentina, like the foot-stomping, kerchiefswinging chacarera, from the north.
4. The Universidad de Buenos Aires(UBA)
was founded in 1821 and is the largest
institution of higher education in the country,
a nation with a 96% literacy rate.
5. In Buenos Aires, soccer is religion, and
the best-known clubs are River Plate, Boca
Juniors, Independiente, Racing Club and
San Lorenzo. The nation boasts two World
Cup prizes and countless world footie stars.
6. When it comes to tipping, 10% of the
amount of the dining check is usually left in
cafes and restaurants. Doormen, porters,
and ushers in cinemas and theatres are
also generally tipped.
7. Avenida 9 de Julio is the widest street in
the world at an imposing sixteen lanes. It
typically takes at least 2 traffic light rotations
to cross.
8. Interesting fact: At 15.2 million, nearly
40% of Argentina`s population of more
than 40 million lives in the greater Buenos
Aires metropolitan area. The most recent
national census took place on October 27,
2010, coinciding with the death of former
president Nestor Kirchner, husband of
current president Cristina Fernandez de
Kirchner.
9. Argentina is one of the leading producers
of wines ever since the 16th century and
has approximately 1,800 wineries currently.
10. Argentine Spanish spoken in and
around Buenos Aires is distinctly different
from that spoken elsewhere in Latin
America. Aside from a heavy accent, the
language is peppered with lunfardo, a local
slang derived from the era of tango.
11. Weird fact: Buenos Aires celebrates
St. Patrick's Day each March 17th with a
massive downtown pub crawl.
12. The city of Buenos Aires has 48 districts
called"barrios". Recoleta, Palermo, Boedo,
Caballito, San Cristobal and Puerto Madero
are some of the districts in the city. When
the city was federalized in 1880, the city
limits were extended to include the former
towns of Belgrano and Flores, now two of
the city's largest barrios.
© NileGuide
26

Art in Buenos Aires

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