La Milagrosa Canyon

La Milagrosa Canyon
The Miraculous Canyon
La Milagrosa Canyon is a jewel of Southern Arizona climbing. Located in Northeast Tucson, at the base of
Mount Lemmon, the canyon provides easily accessible climbing from fall to spring. The most popular
routes are shaded much of the day, making for comfortable climbing on all but the coldest of days. The
short, well-bolted routes ascend smooth, vertical slabs that are punctuated by in-cut ledges. Climbs at
La Milagrosa are predominantly in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, earning it the nickname “5.11 Heaven”.
The canyon provides a beautiful desert setting in which to climb. Sonoran vegetation, including Saguaro,
Prickly Pear, Ocotillo, Cholla, Palo Verde, and Mesquite, is found in abundance. Owls, bats,
hummingbirds and bees are common sights. Ringtails, coyotes and bobcats also reside in the La
Milagrosa Canyon but prove more elusive. A seasonal stream with small falls and permanent pools runs
through the rear of the canyon. Breathtaking sunsets over Tucson often provide the capstone on
departure.
To preserve the beauty of the canyon and maintain access, the climbing community must minimize
impact by packing out all trash, picking up after dogs, and respecting private property. Graciously share
the region with hikers, mountain bikers and residents.
Introduction
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GPS Coordinates
 Parking Lot: 32017’53.76” N, 110043’50.17” W
 Main Wall: 32017’55.37” N, 110042’43.42” W
Elevation
 3000 ft
Hike
 1.1 Miles, 200 Ft Elevation Gain
Driving Directions
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Head Northeast on Catalina Highway towards Mt. Lemmon
Turn East (right) onto Snyder Road at stop sign
Turn North (left) onto Suzenu Ave
Park on gravel shoulder near gate where Suzenu Ave ends
Main Trail Hiking Directions
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Pass through gate; hike East on Horsehead Road
Continue straight as road turns North (left); cross wire fence and dry streambed
Follow dirt road up and down a hill; the hiking trail bisects the curve
At streambed head East (left); follow the Northern (left) fork
Follow the well-marked trail along the Southern rim of Milagrosa Canyon to the Main Wall
Directions
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Main Wall
1. Triple Header (11a, bc) The first route encountered; starts from a platform; shares starting bolts
with Massive Headwound Harry; heads right (Argueso, “Chucky”; 90).
2. Massive Headwound Harry (10d, bc) Starts from a platform; shares starting bolts with Triple
Header; heads left (Ayers; 90).
3. Lugihead (11a/b, bc) Bolted slab; ends with a small roof (Argueso, “Chucky”; 90).
4. Unknown (6, gc) Diheadral with plenty of placements; originally done as a solo (Argueso; 90).
5. Bad Santa (10b/c, bc) Sustained face up dark rock; shares anchors with Short Vacation (Scott,
“MKWRK”; Unknown).
6. Short Vacation (10a, bc) Shallow corner; up an arête (Scott, Scott; Unknown).
Massive Headwound Harry is a reference to a wound Scott Ayers sustained while putting up the route.
Main Wall Part I – Northwest; Late Afternoon Sun
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7.
8.
9.
10.
Litheon Flux (11b/c, bc) Face to ledge to face (Scott, Legg; Unknown).
Unknown  (10a, bgc) Layback crack to bolted face (Unknown; Unknown).
Community Service  (10a, bc) Bolted narrow crack (Argueso, Ayers; Unknown).
Ecstatic Electricity (11d, bc) Thin crimps; vertical featureless face; many believe it is harder than The
Wizard (Ayers; Unknown).
11. The Wizard  (12a, bc) Shallow corner leading to large flake (Argueso, Lusk; Unknown).
12. The Fish (12b, bc) Arête 10 feet left of The Wizard (Argueso, “Chucky”; Unknown).
The crack comprising Community Service was bolted as a favor to climbers. This route is the standard
warm-up and the most climbed in the canyon. It can be lead on gear if so inclined
Main Wall Part II – Northwest; Late Afternoon Sun
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13. Three Sheets To The Wind (11d, bc) Three cruxes separated by ledges (Fazio-Rhicard, Cook, Cornick,
Hundal; 09)
14. Welcome To Milagrosa (10a/b, bc) Slightly overhanging face climb on dark rock; broken up by a
ledge (Argueso; 89).
15. Did You See That (10b/c, gc) Thin crack (5.8) with good gear leads to ledge; walk left to larger crack
(5.10) that takes good but slightly tricky pro. A variation is to follow the finger crack (5.10) to the
anchors of Welcome To Milagrosa (Argueso, Lusk; 89).
16. Where The Buffalo Roam  (10d, bc) Right-hand route on outcropping orange rock; continues past
anchors at ledge (Argueso, Lusk; 89).
17. Last Lonely Eagle (10c, bc) Left-hand route on outcropping orange rock (Argueso; 89).
A generously proportioned woman was sunbathing nude during the development of Did You See That
and Where The Buffalo Roam.
Main Wall Part III – Northwest; Late Afternoon Sun
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18. Unknown (9, R, bg) Follow large crack with loose rock to a single ring; traverse along ledge and
finish on Four Play. The route is R is unless you are carrying #5 and #6 camalots (Unknown;
Unknown).
19. Four Play  (11a/b, bc) Technical face; sole bolted route in alcove (Argueso, Farrell, Lusk, Witt; 90).
20. Hat Trick (9, gbc) Ascend crack taking advantage of a series of rests; traverse right, clipping a bolt, to
finish on Four Play; watch for loose rock near the top (Argueso; 90).
21. Unknown (10b, bc) Bolted line wedged between a crack and an arête; ends prior to roof (Unknown;
Unknown).
22. Triple Play (9, gc) Follow crack from dihedral to face; takes good gear; originally done as a solo.
(Argueso; 90).
23. Send It (12a, bc) Bulging roof. A moderate variation (5.10) is to move onto Valentine’s Arête at the
roof (Unknown; Unknown).
Main Wall Part IV – Northwest; Late Afternoon Sun
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24. Valentine Arête (8, bc) Right-hand face of dihedral; polished from traffic (Unknown; Unknown).
25. Unknown (7, gc) Narrowing crack that becomes easier as you ascend (Unknown; Unknown).
26. Stealin (11a, bc) Right-most of three short routes. Sidepulls and edges lead to a ledge; ends with a
roof (Argueso; 90).
27. I Been Robbed  (11b/c, bc) Fissure morphs into face; horizontal crack leads to devious finish
(Argueso, Farrell; 90).
28. Unknown (10c, bc) Last route found on the main wall; tricky second bolt leads to mellow climbing
(Unknown; Unknown).
Four Play earned its moniker after four ascents in quick succession; I Been Robbed was uttered by Ron
Farrell who just missed the on-sight and it quickly became the de-facto name.
Main Wall Part V – North; No Sun
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Saguaro Corners
1. Paddy Cake (10a, bc) Face to ledge to grungy finish (Fazio-Rhicard, Scott; 09).
2. Ruffian (10c, bgc) Shallow left-facing dihedral to ledge; ends by pulling roof (Scott, Brault, Noebels;
09).
3. Hooligan (11c, bgc) Sidepulls and edges to ledge; ends with burly, tricky finish (Bowman, Scott; 09).
Easement (noun): An interest in land owned by another that entitles its holder to a specific limited use or
enjoyment. Trail access to La Milagrosa Canyon across private land is granted by easement.
Saguaro Corners Part I: The Traddy Wagon – Northwest; Late Afternoon Sun
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4. Ocotillo (11d, bc) Right-most route on large platform; thin holds (Ayers; Unknown).
5. Cholla  (11b, bc) Ledges and jugs on slightly overhanging rock (Ayers; Unknown).
6. Saguaro Corner (10b/c, bg) Crack with good gear; watch for loose death block midway; single ring
protects short traverse to Cholla anchors (Argueso, “Chucky”; 91).
Unfortunately the lone, namesake Saguaro on the platform is dead. The death was apparently of natural
causes.
Saguaro Corners Part II – Northwest; Late Afternoon Sun
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7. Planet Ron (11c, bc) Right-hand route on left-side of the dihedral. Blank face leads to bolted crack
(Ayers; Unknown).
8. Saguaro (10c, bc) Low crux gives way to easier climbing on in-cut ledges (Ayers; Unknown).
9. Javalina (10d, bc) Left-most route on large platform; start protected with belay bolt (Ayers;
Unknown).
Saguaro Corners Part III – West; Afternoon Sun
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Oasis
1. Left Route (10d, bc) Left-most route; climbs better than it looks (Ayers; Unknown).
2. Midnight At The Oasis (12a, bc) Dark rock to groove; traverses right onto lighter rock (Ayers;
Unknown).
3. Unknown (11c, bc) Third route from the left; goes up just left of a wide crack (Ayers; Unknown).
4. Unknown (8, g) Crack with plenty of placements; lower off Hard To Handle (Unknown; Unknown).
5. Hard To Handle (11a/b, bc) Left-most of four routes on platform; low, protected crux leads to easier
climbing (Ayers; Unknown).
6. Oasis  (11b, bc) Crack with bomber chockstone leads to face climbing (Ayers; Unknown).
7. Smokestack Lightning (11a, bc) Face climb with classic in-cut ledges (Ayers; Unknown).
8. Eleventh Heaven (11a, bc) Right-most route on platform; pull small roof using a series of enormous
holds (Ayers; Unknown).
Oasis Part I – East; Morning Sun
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9. Simple Twist Of Fate (11a, bc) 50 yards up canyon from the Oasis routes; vertical with in-cut ledges;
hollow-sounding rock seems to hold (Argueso, Fayle; 90).
10. Black Muddy Water (11a, bc) Longer of the routes; pulls small bulge; uneven but solid anchors
(Argueso, Fayle; 90).
Oasis Part II: The Argueso Routes – East; Morning Sun
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11. Hydroponics (11b/c, bc) Unique climb over water with big holds; a bit dirty near the top. (FazioRhicard, Scott; Unknown).
12. Unknown (10b, bc) Overhanging face with slippery moves past the first bolt; shares bolt with
Hydroponics (Unknown; Unknown).
Oasis Part III: Water World – West; No Sun
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13. The Fury (11a, bc) Left-hand route; small crack leads to positive but relentless climbing above
(Baker, Kafura, Shiefman; 01).
14. Climb With A Jew (11b, bc) Right-hand route; some stick clip to the second bolt; the name is a play
on Mt. Lemmon’s “Climb With A View” (Baker, Shiefman; 01).
The Milla Vanilla Boulder lies directly underneath the climb Community Service. The rock is 15 feet tall
with a flat, sandy landing. From left to right the problems are: Unnamed (V0+), Unnamed (V3), White
Chocolate (V4), I’ve Been Jacked (V7) and Unnamed (V1).
Oasis Part IV – West; Afternoon Sun
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Beach
1. For The Lova Mike (11c, bc) Start atop an unpleasant shattered block, clipping the keeper bolt
(Baker, Shiefman, Synder; 00).
2. Going Mobile (11b/c, c) Top rope; anchors drilled by Mike Argueso prior to his relocating; the
bottom of the route contains loose rock (Argueso, 93).
Beach Part I: The Cheese Block – South; All-Day Sun
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3. Death Of A Surfer (11d, bc) Climbs far left side of the roof (“McG”; 03).
4. Eclipse (12d, bc) The steepest route in the canyon; crux is turning the lip (“McG”, Baker; 02).
5. Pipeline (13a, bc) Climbs the right side of the roof at a 45 degree angle; ends on black streak
(“McG”, Baker; 02).
Beach Part II – South Southeast; All-Day Sun in Winter; Morning Sun Rest of Year
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6. No War (13b/c, bc) Shares start with Blood Meridian; cuts left after 4th bolt. Avoid stemming on the
left wall to maintain the grade and as intended by the FA (McCormick; Unknown).
7. Blood Meridian (12d, bc) Shares start with no War; continue upward at 4th bolt following the seam
(Baker, “McG”; 03).
8. Milanoma  (12c, bc) Follow brown streak up this 30 degree overhanging climb (“McG”, Baker,
Kristofitz; Unkonwn).
9. Holeo An’ Glassy Ass (13a, bc) Blank face with a prominent hole 20 feet up (“McG”, Baker; 03).
10. Solar Power (12a, bc) Starts on a ledge 10 feet up; follow a seam past two blocks. Avoid traversing
left near the top to maintain the grade and as intended by the FA (Baker, “McG”, Kristofitz,
Shiefman; 02).
11. Hang Eleven (11c, bc) From the Solar Power ledge traverse up and right into a corner. The “warmup” for the Beach (McMillen; 02).
It makes no difference what men think of war, said the judge. War endures. As well ask men what they
think of stone. War was always here. Before man was, war waited for him. The ultimate trade awaiting
the ultimate practitioner. That is the way it was and will be. That way and not some other way.
– Cormac McCarthy, Blood Meridian
Beach Part III – South Southeast; All-Day Sun in Winter; Morning Sun Rest of Year
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Sunnyside
1. Jump For Cholla (8, bc) The left-most of four sport routes; starts on a left-facing dihedral (Argueso,
Cozzetti; 92).
2. Mashing Cactus (9, bc) Pulls two small roofs (Argueso, Cozzetti; 92).
3. Twistin’ Off (10a, bc) Small roof to slab (Argueso, Cozzetti; 92).
4. G-Less Ghandi (8, gc) Good gear; bad shared anchors; originally done as a solo (Argueso, Cozzetti;
92).
5. Sunnyside Up (9, gc) Bad shared anchors; originally done as a solo (Argueso, Cozzetti; 92).
6. Tragically Hip (11a, bc) The right-most route; delicate vertical start leads to easier slab (Argueso,
Cozzetti; 92).
If you enjoy the style of climbs found at La Milagrosa Canyon check out Techno Savage (5.10a, bc),
Medicine Bag (5.10b/c, bc) and Black Feather (5.10d, bc) at the Ruins on Mount Lemmon. Rosie (5.10d,
bc) at Hairpin is another stellar, Milagrosa-like route.
Sunnyside Part I – South; All-Day Sun
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7. Chunky Monkey  (11b/c, bc, 2 pitches) To the right of Tragically Hip is a large arête containing an
underappreciated classic; sport climb the 5.10 approach pitch to a ledge where Chunky Monkey
begins; the climb ascends the juggy west face and continues to the top of the formation (Ayers;
Unknown).
8. Cherry Garcia (11d, bgc, 2 pitches) From the ledge where Chunky Monkey begins follow crack with
good gear (5.10); pull left-side of roof; clip bolts to top (Argueso; 93).
Sunnyside Part II – Southwest; All-Day Sun
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9. Unknown (11c/d, bc, 2 pitches) Slab to block with anchors; trend left and up headwall. Sustained
pumpy climbing with a bit of loose rock. Avoid these two routes when the beehive is active
(Unknown; Unknown).
10. Unknown (10b/c, gc, 2 pitches) Shares first pitch; trend right into crack. The crack is sustained with
adequate gear (Unknown; Unknown).
Sunnyside Part III – South; All-Day Sun
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11. Jim Dandy (11d, bc) Starts from the same ledge as Hootenanny; trends left. Varied pitch consisting
of thin face, laybacking, underclings, stemming, and a roof (Fazio-Rhicard, Cook, Flanagan, Scott;
09).
12. Hootenanny  (11c, bgc) Tricky start leads to fun climbing with a crux roof move (Bowman, Scott;
09).
13. Black Widow (5.10d, X, gc) Between Jim’s Buttress and the Oasis; anchors are shared with Scorpion
Jam; probably best to top rope; I have yet to locate the anchors (Argueso; 92).
14. Scorpion Jam (5.10b, X, gc) Between Jim’s Buttress and the Oasis; anchors are shared with Black
Widow; probably best to top rope (Argueso; 92).
Sunnyside Part IV: Jim’s Buttress – South; All-Day Sun
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Agua Caliente
Within Agua Caliente reside five routes 5.11 to 5.13b. The two routes on the south (right) side of the
wash climb a clean face and share camouflaged cold shuts. The three routes on the north (left) side of
the wash include a mixed 5.13b with 6 pins that ascends a shallow open book. These routes are
approximately parallel with Saguaro Corners. My initial attempt at locating these routes was a failure.
These routes are courtesy of Mike Argueso.
Two scorpions fell onto Mike Argueso’s lap during the first ascent of Scorpion Jam but he amazingly
persevered.
Agua Caliente: South & North; Unknown Sun
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Thanks
Thanks to all the first ascensionists for identifying, equipping and cleaning these wonderful routes;
without your efforts the canyon as described above would not exist. Thanks to those who have
maintained the trails, replaced worn bolts and cleaned the crags; often thankless but nevertheless
essential tasks.
Much of this guide derives from the efforts of others. In particular a great debt is owed to Tyler
McMillen for publishing Tucson Select Sport Climbing, the ClimbAZ.com website for the earliest topo,
and the MountainProject.com community for many of the newer routes. Special thanks are owed to Jim
Scott and Jon Baker identifying omissions and correcting errors. Mike Argueso graciously volunteered
many previously undocumented first ascent details and route descriptions. Kane Richard provided a
portion of the photos and more importantly humored this endeavor.
Alma Madsen’s Beta Creator application was used to create the topos in this guide.
Warning
Rock climbing is inherently dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Do not climb without
proper training and equipment. Do not rely solely on this guide for difficulty and safety ratings.
Errata
Please send corrections and comments to [email protected] or Hendrixson on
MountainProject.com.
John E S Hinrichsen
Version 1.11 / January 21, 2010
Acknowledgements
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