Autumn 2008 - British V8

Transcription

BritishV8 Enthusiasts Visit "Road America" (photo: Martyn Harvey)
BritishV8 Magazine
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Current Issue
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Table of Contents
Covering News & Events from June through October 2008 (Volume 16, Issue 2)
Main Editorial Section (including this table of contents)
452 pages, 992 photos
In the Driver's Seat
by Curtis Jacobson
Canadian Corner
by Martyn Harvey
How To: Install Big Valves
by Greg Myers
How To: Install an In-Tank Fuel Pump (for EFI)
by Kelly Stevenson
The First Rule of Insuring Modified Cars
by Travis Overby
How To: Make a Solid State Voltage Stabilizer
by Curtis Jacobson
Evaluating Pulstar Spark Plugs
by Larry Shimp
British V8 2008: Autocross and Weigh-In Results
by Curtis Jacobson
British V8 2008: Valve Cover Race Results
by Curtis Jacobson
British V8 2008: Tech Sessions
by Curtis Jacobson
British V8 2008: Group Outings and Parties
by Curtis Jacobson
Second Annual British V8 Photo Contest Winners
by Dan Masters
Special Feature
25 pages, 71 photos
Les Gonda's MGB GT V8 Race Car
by Curtis Jacobson
Please support the sponsoring companies who make British V8 possible, including:
Special Section: Ken Smith's Collection of Factory MGB GT V8 Related Info (part 3)
52 pages, 91 photos
MG Built Eleven LHD MGB-GT-V8 Prototypes
by Curtis Jacobson
MGB GT V8 Paint and Trim Color Options
(various sources)
MGB GT V8 Technical and Service Notes
(BL Product Training Dept.)
Behold The MGB V8
(Australian Motor Manual)
MG V8: Too Little, Too Late, Too Much
(Car Magazine)
The B Comes Out of the Gloom
(Cars and Car Conversions)
Hey You With The Squashy Nose!
(Custom Car)
Costello V8 - An MGB that Bites
(The Sunday Observer)
MGB Buick?
(Sports Car World)
Buick's New Aluminum Engine
(Buick Motor Division)
Enjoying this online magazine? BritishV8 is funded through the generous support of readers like you!
To contribute to our operating budget, please click here and follow the instructions.
(Suggested contribution is twenty bucks per year. Feel free to give more!)
"How It Was Done" Articles:
#206
Dan Algarin
(Hewitt NJ, 74 MG MGB, Rover 3.5 V8, MG 4-speed +OD)
#207
Ken Biermann
(St Louis MO, 69 MG MGB, Buick 308 V8, T5 5-speed)
#208
Simon Briggs
(Durham NC, 77 Triumph Stag, Chevy 350 V8, TH400R7 automatic)
#209
Bob Burge
(Cheyenne WY, 76 Jaguar XJ12, Chevy 454 V8, 700R4 automatic)
#210
Bob Chartier
(Cave Creek AZ, 65 Austin Healey Sprite, Mazda 1.6 I4 turbo, Mazda 5-speed)
#211
John Crosse
(Boulder CO, 61 Vanden Plas Princess, Nissan 2.8 I6, Nissan automatic)
#212
Victor Guerrero
(Sydney Australia, 71 MG MGB, Chevy 383 V8, Tremec 5-speed)
#213
Merv Hagen
(Dundee IL, 80 MG MGB, Buick 215 V8, T5 5-speed)
#214
Jason Hemphill
(Louisville OH, 77 Triumph TR7, Ford 302 V8, C4 automatic)
#215
Darian Henderson
(San Antonio TX, 62 MG MGA, Nissan I4 turbo, Nissan 5-speed)
#216
Philip Herrick
(Melchbourne England, 60 Austin Healey Sprite, Rover 3.5 V8, Rover 4-speed)
#217
Jim Lewenauer
(Mequon WI, 74.5 MG MGB-GT, Rover 4.2 V8, T5 5-speed)
#218
Mike Maloney
(Tipp City OH, 74 MG MGB-GT, Rover 3.9 V8, T5 5-speed)
#219
Dan Masters
(Alcoa TN, 74 MG MGB-GT, Ford 302 V8, Tremec 5-speed)
#220
Brian McCullough
(Stacy MN, 80 MG MGB, GM 3.4 V6, T5 5-speed)
#221
Jim Miller
(Saint Joseph MI, 78 MG MGB, Buick 215 V8, T5 5-speed)
#222
Jim Prettyleaf
(Cupertino CA, 71 Triumph TR6, Buick 231 V6, Muncie M21 4-speed)
#223
Mike Puke
(Dunedin New Zealand, 77 Triumph 2500, Rover V8, T-65 automatic)
#224
Norman Rest
(Laguna Beach CA, 56 Austin Healey 100, Ford SHO V6, T5 5-speed)
#225
Ken Ritacco
(Westborough MA, 77 MG MGB, Buick 215 V8, T5 5-speed)
#226
Craig Roush
(Longmont CO, 58 MG MGA, GM 3.4 V6, T5 5-speed)
#227
Bill Spohn
(West Vancouver BC, 57 MG MGA, GM 3.4 V6, T5 5-speed)
#228
Perry Stephenson
(Buckingham England, 75 MGB GT V8, Rover 4.6 V8, TH350 auto)
#229
Bruce Uchida
(Lakewood CO, 59 Austin Healey Sprite, BMW 1.6L I4, BMW 4-speed)
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the editor's car
In The Driver's Seat (Volume XVI Issue 2, October 2008)
by: Curtis Jacobson
This is Our Halloween Edition!
Here's your treat. You're reading the one and only magazine that's focused on serious performance upgrades for classic British sports cars. We also feature British cars that originally came with V8 engines. Our mission is to
provide a diverse range of quality content: entertaining, educational, technical, and inspirational.
Our niche of the British car hobby isn't the largest, but it's by far the most vibrant and the fastest growing. The term "resto-mod" describes it: today's enthusiasts want to combine classic styling with modern performance, and
they demand modern reliability.
Other websites and magazines "sell the sizzle", but we serve the whole steak. We use as many large, close-up photos as it takes to tell each story completely. This new edition contains 47 articles and over 992 color
photos. Do the math. That's over 21 photos per article. You won't find THAT on a newsstand! And it ain't fluff either. We publish truly detailed, technical, and informative "how-to" and "how-it-was-done" articles.
But this may be our online magazine's last edition. Frankly, bundling articles together makes a whole lot more sense for a printed newsletter than it does for a huge, free, online resource. Websites perform best when they
present dynamic, interactive content. If we're going to keep doing this, we must try harder to give people more reasons to visit week-after-week throughout the year. Seriously... 47 articles and over 992 big color photos?
Who can absorb that much in one visit? Bottom line: don't be surprised if our format starts changing radically. Don't worry though: everything a person builds should be high-performance, not just our cars.
Enjoying this article? Our magazine is funded through the generous support of readers like you!
What's New In This Edition?
I'm particularly proud of the special feature article we've put together on Les Gonda's MGB GT V8 race car... I have an ambition that it will be the first of a long series of articles featuring competitive race cars in greater and
more spectacular detail than you've ever seen before. Don't miss it.
Additionally, we have a third installment of historical and reference articles related to the "factory" MGB GT V8 model and its predecessor the "Costello V8". Veteran automotive journalist Ken Smith collected these materials
throughout the seventies and early eighties for a book project he hoped would commemorate the tenth anniversary of the factory MGB GT V8. He carefully tracked down original authors and publishers to get permission to
reprint their work. Unfortunately, the project was delayed... until now. Explore the internet's best "Factory" and "Costello" MGB-V8 reference library.
At BritishV8, we celebrate the talents and creativity of our diverse community: a community with varying experience and training, tool and shop resources, financial budgets, time constraints, and transportation needs. Our
unique "How It Was Done" format lets everyone pass along some of what they learned, as they show off their unique projects! No two modified British sports cars are identical; their differences are what make them so
charming.
In this edition, we're proud to feature twenty-four new "How It Was Done" articles!
I want to briefly direct your attention to just two of these marvelous machines:
Ken Biermann's Rover aluminum V8 powered 1969 MGB
Ken Biermann was a good friend to many of us. An active, enthusiastic member of the BritishV8
community, Ken and his wife Ila participated in our annual meets even when their conversion was
in process. Ken's masterpiece, the MGB V8 shown above, was coming together just as he fell ill.
Ken passed away August 5th. We hope he'd be pleased with our attempt at a "How It Was Done".
Dan Masters' 1974 MGB-GT with Ford 302 V8, by Fast Cars Inc.
On a happier note, I'm delighted to congratulate former BritishV8 Editor Dan Masters on completion
of his absolutely stunning MGB GT V8! This is the latest creation from the "Fast Cars Inc." workshop.
What can I say? It's a fantastic car. The How It Was Done write-up gets bonus points for completeness
and spectacular photography. I guess that's exactly what we'd expect from Dan, Ted, and company.
Mark Your Calendars Now!
BritishV8 2009
June 7 - 10
Durham, NC
Meeting coordinators Max Fulton and Emily Turner are planning a busy schedule of exciting and unique activities to fill our time from Sunday evening though Wednesday night. Specifically, they're planning informative
Tech Sessions (on car lifts!), "Show and Tell", Go-Karting, Chassis Dyno, a Craft Fair, a tour of a top-flight Machine Shop, and much more.
BritishV8 Message Board Turns One Year Old!
Did you expect that in one year we'd register 400 users, start 700 message threads, and log 5100 messages? Not a bad start, eh? The board is easier to use than other boards and it does a better job of displaying photos
- but the fundamental key to its success is its community: more friendly, more helpful, more diverse, and more universally enthusiastic about radical performance upgrades to classic British sports cars.
There's still room for tremendous growth. We need to turn more newbies on to what we have here. We also need to promote the Classified Ad section. Check it out! Tell your friends about it!
BritishV8 is a Volunteer Effort
BritishV8 Magazine and website represent the work of many people. I want to take a moment to recognize and thank all the folks who've contributed articles, photos, and information. Returning readers will probably
recognize some familiar names including Martyn Harvey, Dan Masters, Greg Myers, Larry Shimp, and Kelly Stevenson. Check out the article contributed by new writer Travis Overby. (Click on the links in it... it won't cost
you anything and it will contribute to our operating budget.) I also want to all the folks who've contributed photographs (including especially Ken Hiebert and Jim Miller) and "How It Was Done" write-ups.
I continue to be encouraged by the generosity of readers. Since the last issue, we've been blessed with financial support from the following individuals: Simon Austin, Dave Bash, Jeb Blanchard, K.M. Bok, Dan Burdick,
Toby Cairnes, Leslie Caldwell, Brad Chapman, John Crosse, Steve DeGroat, Barrie Egerton, Robert Fair, Rob Ficalora, Carl Floyd, Victor Guerrero, Bruce Harland, Martyn Harvey, Gert de Haas, Jerry Jackman, Bill
Jacobson, Chris Jones, Matt Junker, Scott Kitzerow, Dale Knapke, James Koepke, Richard Lilly, Brent Lomnes, Paul MacDonald, Brian MacMillan, Mike Maloney, Dan Masters, Paul Menten, Mikel Moor, Richard Moor,
Daniel Root, Jim Stuart, Jerry Tennison, Werner Van Clapdurp, Edd Weninger, Van Wilder, Richard Woodley, and Al Wulf.
Gentlemen, your contributions are being put to good use expanding the depth and breadth of our coverage.
Now More Than Ever: PLEASE THANK OUR VENDOR SPONSORS!
The biggest portion of our operating budget comes from advertisers. Our vendor sponsors are businessmen, and they NEED to KNOW their advertising investments are returning meaningful exposure and good will. They'll
believe it when they hear it from customers like you.
Every single one of our sponsors is friendly, knowledgeable, and will help you with anything they can.
Now I've said this before but I'll say it again: to improve the performance of your car, pick up your telephone and start asking BritishV8 sponsors what cool stuff they've got. They're continuously developing and introducing
new products. It's remarkable how much of their best stuff is under-advertised. "Click" on their ads. Call them. Ask questions. Here's the contact info you need: BritishV8's Handy Vendor Directory!
NEW BRITISH V8 SPONSORS
RETURNING SPONSORS FOR OUR OCTOBER 2008 EDITION
Are you in the British sports car performance trade? You should be listed here too! (Here's info about advertising.)
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Canadian Corner (Volume XVI Issue 2, October 2008)
2008 British Car Day at Bronte Provincial Park in Oakville Ontario
by: Martyn Harvey
The final day of another Ontario Summer was celebrated this year with the Toronto Triumph Club's magnificent 25th Anniversary British Car Day. Over one thousand British cars were on display, and the entire alphabet was
represented. It was a veritable A-to-Z of British cars... everything from ACs to Zodiacs.
This year I was specifically impressed with the V8-converted sports cars. There were so many V8's (and performance-modified cars) I found it impossible to see and photograph them all! The following report is an overview,
with some favorite snapshots.
Carol and I arrived at 9.30 a.m. after an hour's misty drive. We were directed toward a large school of rubber bumper MGBs, and fortunately found a couple of other MGB V8s to park beside.
Kevin Pesant's MGB V8
Les Matthews' custom upholstery utilizes an especially durable kind of vinyl,
which is designed to stand up to hard use in the coldest Canadian winters.
Les's car must be an "MGD". Look closely. It says so on the radio knobs!
Hal Nassar's MGB V8 (engine compartment)
Directly behind us was the white BV8 roadster of Kevin Pesant. Next to Kevin's car was the black MGB LE V8 of Les Matthews. Then, suddenly, I realized the lovely, clean British Racing Green MGB beside us was a
V8-conversion too! It was a great pleasure to meet and talk to its owner, Hal Nassar, but I dumbfounded to hear that he'd never even heard of BritishV8. (How it that even possible?) Hal only recently built his MGB V8 complete with a 1972 Chevy Camaro V8 that looks right at home in the MG bay.
Barrie Robinson discusses his stunning MGB GT V8.
Ron Faithful's Chevy 327 powered MGB convertible, with color-matched hardtop.
Steve Rushton's Chevy 350 powered 1979 MGB-LE.
On the row behind us I found three more BV8s. Barrie Robinson's MGB GT V8 was nestled in amongst the chrome bumper Bs. Several cars down from Barrie was Ron Faithfull's bright red Chevy 327 powered MGB V8
roadster sporting a recently fitted Sebring rear valance. In front of Ron was a real "muscle car" MG, the BV8 of Steve Rushton. At first glance Steve's car looks like a fairly regular MGB LE but under the skin it's pure
American Chevy V8 muscle. It's for sale for $12,500 - if that's your "cup of tea".
Several rows behind the MGs were the Triumphs. A green TR6 was generating a lot of interest. The centre of attention was Ken Heibert's Chevy (LT1) powered TR6.
A Long Row of Triumph Stags
The Original Triumph 3.0L V8 Engine
A Rover 3.5L V8 converted Triumph Stag
One of the highlights of this year's Bronte British Car Day was the very strong showing of Triumph Stags. The Stag model was produced from 1970 through 1977, and came standard with an iron block / aluminum
head / overhead-cam engine. The Triumph V8 quickly earned a miserable reputation for durability, and sales of the model never met expectations. This was especially true in North America, where potential
customers asked the obvious question: "Why didn't they just install the bigger, better, and well-proven Rover aluminum V8?" Of the 25,877 Triumph Stags built, only 2,871 Stags were exported to U.S.A. In addition to
the many Stags at Bronte with the original Triumph V8, there was one especially nice Rover-converted Stag. The Rover engine looks perfectly "at home" in the Stag engine bay!
Triumph TR8 interior. (Triumph TR8's came with the Rover V8 engine.)
One could say that the Rover engine looks "at home" in almost any British sports car. Perhaps one of the best illustrations of this statement is the Triumph TR8 (produced from 1978 through 1981, total production
was about 2750 cars.) There were several fine examples at the Bronte show, and at least a couple were for sale.
The TVR Griffith model was produced from 1991 through 2002. These cars feature
Rover V8 engines of various displacement, from 3950cc to 4988cc..
TVR Griffith Interior
Walter Chippendale's TVR 450SE
Beyond the Triumphs were the TVRs, and amongst the TVRs were the Griffiths. Like many people I want a Griffith! There were two Griffiths for sale at last year's show, but unfortunately my cheque book just
wouldn't stretch far enough for me to take one home! My suffering was reduced this year, because this year there were no Griffiths on offer (or any other TVR V8s for that matter.)
However, a very unique TVR 450SE did catch my eye, and I stopped to talk to its owner: Walter Chippendale. The TVR 450SE model came factory original with a specially-tuned 4.4L Rover aluminum V8 engine. I
really enjoyed chatting with Walter, who shared a really cool little story. He is the original owner, and after eighteen years of owning the car he phoned the TVR factory in England to ask a question about the
engine. The receptionist connected him right through to the "Engine Department" where the technician asked him for the vehicle's serial number. Upon receipt of the number, the technician said "I know that car
well - I built it!"
Sunbeam Tiger
Morgan Plus 8
At this point the day was rapidly drawing to a close. So many V8s, so little time! I managed to catch glimpses of some Aston Martin, Lotus, Rolls Royce, and Bentley machinery. As time was running out, I
headed over to some of my other favourite British V8 classics. There was a nice collection of Sunbeam Tigers and an equally nice collection of Morgan Plus 8s. As I perused those collections, I found myself
thinking how much I'd relish the opportunity to test drive any one of these great cars.
Jensen Interceptor Convertible
Just downwind from the Morgans were several Chrysler V8 powered Jensen Interceptors. These cars certainly had a presence all of their own. I especially liked the black convertible, but this white convertible's
photograph came out better.
Rover 3500 Grille Badge
Rover SD1
Finally, as an appropriate end to the day, I snapped a few photos of the cars that started my obsession with the Rover V8 engine - the ever-distinctive and arguably beautiful Rover 3500, and the (vaguely
"Ferrari Daytonaesque") Rover SD1.
Chevy 350 powered 1962 Morris Minor
As Carol and I headed back to our car, I spotted a rather unusual British V8 - a 1962 Morris Minor with a shoe-horned Chevy 350. A small block Morris Minor!?! Proof that one can convert just about any car
to V8 power. "Where there's a will, there's a way!"
Martyn and Carol Harvey, and one of their British V8's
Before leaving Bronte, Carol and I stopped for one last photo. It's a great joy to have an enthusiastic partner to share the BritishV8 hobby with!
By the time you read this article, the Canadian maple leaves will be turning colors. Another Ontario autumn will have arrived. But it won't be too early to start planning to enjoy next year's British Car Day
at Bronte Provincial Park.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Martyn Harvey. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own
risk.
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Big Valves!
as published in BritishV8 Magazine,
Volume XVI Issue 2, October 2008
by: Greg Myer
"If some is good, and more is better, than too much is just enough!" Cubic inches, camshaft lift and duration, and valve sizes, right? Well, not exactly. What?
Bigger isn't better? Humm... Not always.
Example: Ford's 1969 & 1970 BOSS 302. It was a great race motor and they won the manufacturers' championship in SCCA's Trams Am division in 1970
with it. The race motor was designed to make horsepower in the upper RPM range and was rated at 470 HP @ 9,000 RPM The street version was not as
radical, but the huge valves and ports made the motor a 'dog' below 4,000 RPM. Around town it wasn't tractable.
Rare example? Maybe, but it does prove you can run ports and valves that are too big for street use. In fact the Ford boys who swap Cleveland style heads
onto their 302's now have the option of special head gaskets with smaller openings and plates that go down into the intake port that effectively narrows the
port reducing the port volume for more efficient flow in a streetable package.
"But I want bigger valves! Mine are too small!" OK, larger valves can help performance and if done right, volumetric efficiency... which helps everything. HP
and mileage can both gain from this modification. Even with everything else the same, intake manifold, carburetor (or fuel-injection), cam specs - larger
valves make it easier for the engine to breathe. That would require less throttle opening at highway speeds or it can take in more air/fuel mixture at wide
open throttle.
What's needed? Bigger valves and a machinist to open up the seats, right? Well, that's a start but more is needed. If that was all you did and left the throat (i.e. the area between the bowl and the valve) the same, you'd create
turbulence and possibly reduce the overall flow as there is now a larger obstruction in the airflow's path. To realize any advantage with larger valves this area must be opened up. This is quite a common operation in most
machine shops. Many valve seat machines have an optional "Bowl Hog" tool that does just that. Often times someone will want their "2 barrel" heads opened up to the "4 barrel" size. For example a small block Chevy with
1.94 inch intake and 1.5 exhaust valves can be easily upgraded to 2.02 inch intakes and 1.6 exhausts. These larger valves are readily available at affordable prices.
A Cross-Sectioned Chevy Cylinder Head
Undercut and swirl polished valve stems (left) provide a performance advantage.
Readily available stainless steel valves will be just fine for a high performance street motor. Want just a little more? Opt for valves that are undercut and swirl polished. Having a stem that is undercut at the lower portion of
the stem, where it protrudes into the port, allows a little more air to flow past. The swirl polish of this area and the back side of the valve has been shown to be of benefit too.
In these two photos you can see where the small original exhaust valve has worn away the seat. It's the area inside the newly cut seat for GT40 valves. These heads, 1969 Ford 302 DOOE with 1.45 inch exhaust valves
could not be rebuilt without new seats or larger valves. The newly cut seat needs to have the old seat / throat area opened up so that the flow potential can be utilized.
First, the seats are roughed in with a 45 degree stone. This is done as wide as the valve head itself. Measuring is important. Hand lapping the valve face with compound can also give you an easy read as to how things
are mating up. After this step, be careful to keep your valves matched to specific seats. (I number them.) Once the seat is established, the 30 degree top cut can be made. After which a 60 degree throat cut is done. This
aids the air to make the transition of turning to enter the chamber past the seat area. Some head machines make 3 cuts at once, but with my old trusty Black & Decker grinder I can only do one at a time. I need to be
careful not to go too far, so I check several times.
The seats need to be toward the outside of the valve face. Once everything checks out good, the valve face can be back cut. This removes material from the inside area of the valve face that will not need to make contact
with the seat. Again, aiding airflow transition, and has been found to especially aid low lift flow, and that helps across the board, no matter what cam you are using. Caution: take only what is needed. Going too far here
can leave a seat area that is too small to last any length of time on the street. (Race motors use narrow seats, but they're also rebuilt frequently.)
About Titanium Valves
Quite often I see used titanium valves available on eBay for a ridiculously cheap price. These are used race valves. They may have plenty of life left for a street motor. Very tempting when new ones can run $100.00 each.
NASCAR boys use them with good reason. They're light, and thus they put less stress on the springs at the 8,000+ rpm they run for hours at a time. They're very strong, which is very important to these guys. A valve
failure at 8,000 rpm has catastrophic results for your motor, car and a long string of cars behind you. (The fact that the whole valve train lasts 500 miles at 8,000 RPM impresses me more than anything else about these
cars.) So, what's wrong? They aren't standard! The valve stem will be longer, requiring a different spring set-up and longer pushrods to start with. Setting up the proper geometry afterwards can be tricky. Also they usually
have smaller diameter stems, thus requiring your guides to be drilled or pressed out, new ones pressed in and then reamed to the appropriate size. Titanium also requires different tooling on many machines, as it is very
hard.
Titanium valves may also require different seats pressed into your heads because titanium doesn't transfer heat very well. Beryllium/copper alloy valve seats are favored in race motors with titanium valves, but they're
expensive because beryllium is a rare metallic element. (It's lighter than any other metal, it has a high melting point, and it's very strong, stiff and hard.) In a street motor environment, cast iron seats have been tried and
usually have been found to work okay with titanium valves.
Four Cylinder Heads Benefit Too
When MG had to add the larger bumpers to the "B" in 1972 and increase the ride height to conform to Federal bumper height requirements, the whole car weighed more. One little thing they did to regain some
performance was enlarge the exhaust valve and bowl area. These larger valves can be installed in earlier heads for better breathing. That's what we see in the next picture.
The stock MGB ("B-series") cylinder head can be opened up for better airflow too!
In the second picture, the close-up shows how far the bowl was opened up to make the transition to the larger diameter seat easier for the air/fuel mixture. Notice also that the intake bowl was opened-up even though the
valve size remained the same. This is a critical area in most wedge type heads. Look again at the way the port narrows as it approaches the seat in the cutaway picture above.
Can you do some of this in your home workshop? The answer is a definite maybe. You'll need a variety of tools. First, to access the area you'll need a valve spring compressor. Not all compressors work on all heads.
Check that the one you buy fits your application. Next, if the machine shop did a decent job with the seats, you'll need a die grinder (electric or pneumatic) and carbide points, mounted grinding stones and sanding rolls
with mandrels for finishing. If you use a pneumatic die grinder, you'll need a large capacity air compressor! (These things use a lot of air.) A less expensive air die grinder can work just fine for the home enthusiast. I
have several so I don't need to change the bits, leaving a stone in one, carbide bit in another and a mandrel for sanding rolls in a third. The reason for this is that it's the chucks on these grinders that wear out.
A pneumatic die grinder and carbide cutting points.
A pneumatic die grinder and abrasive cutting tools: grinding stones (at left) and sanding rolls (at right).
If you're brave enough to try it, go slowly. The carbide bits cut well and the mounted grinding stones are very useful, but wear down quickly. Start with a larger diameter stone. It contacts a wider area and won't cut in
deep as quickly - helping you to avoid mistakes. Grind down into the throat to blend the transitional area. Finish the area adjacent to the lower 60 degree cut with a large diameter sanding roll. Be careful! If you touch
the finished seat, you'll need to take the head back to the machine shop to have it touched up. (Hint: it might be best to finish both heads before returning!) Don't cut into the seat areas, or the valve will have nothing to
contact and seal to, and you'll need the whole seat area cut out and a new seat pressed-in.
This work will help almost any head. As cast and machined from the factory, most heads leave plenty of leeway for machine misalignment, etc. We can improve on that.
I have installed larger valves for many friends by using this approach, and they've all come back with positive reports. More power, and even improved fuel mileage in cases where that was a concern... The way things
are going, it'll be a big concern now and for the foreseeable future.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Greg Myer. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
Photos by Greg Myer for British V8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
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Installing an In-Tank Fuel Pump
as published in BritishV8 Magazine, Volume XVI Issue 2, October 2008
by: Kelly Stevenson
In this article I'll describe how we installed an in-tank fuel-pump in my MGB. The conversion of my 1978 MGB tourer to Ford 5.0L V8 power was initially completed in May 2005. From the beginning, my conversion featured
electronic fuel injection, but the initial installation featured an external fuel pump. That external fuel pump worked, but there are significant advantages to moving the fuel pump into the fuel tank. Most modern OEM
installations have in-tank fuel pumps because they're quieter. They're also usually less susceptible to supply problems when the fuel level is low and when fuel is sloshing around during spirited driving.
Obviously, fitting an in-tank fuel pump requires cutting into the tank. I suppose the traditional approach might be to cut and weld, but I believe it's best to start with a brand-new tank and to preserve its modern, corrosioninhibiting coatings by soldering instead of by welding.
After shopping around, I ordered a new "Spectra Premium" 1977-80 spec MGB fuel tank from an eBay merchant. The cost for the tank, including shipping, is about $189. (Note: 1977-80 fuel tanks are most easily identified by
their short, straight-up, fuel-fuller inlet.)
Editor's Notes: Spectra Premium Industries' MGB fuel tanks are made in Canada from U.S. Steel's "Ni-Terne" material. The annealed cold-rolled steel sheet is first processed to apply a thin flash coating of electrodeposited
nickel, and then it's given a hot-dip lead-tin alloy coating. The nickel base coat gives Ni-Terne steel an extra measure of corrosion resistance compared to U.S. Steel's regular "Terne" steel sheet and also compared to
traditional galvanizing, which isn't readily available anymore. It should also be pointed out that the Ni-Terne coating protects both interior and exterior surfaces of the fuel tank from surface corrosion.
Spectra Premium tanks are available directly from Moss Motors and Moss distributors. Moss also sells British Motor Heritage brand fuel tanks, which are more appropriate to use for concours restorations because they're
made in England on original MG tooling from plain steel sheet. British Motor Heritage fuel tanks arrive painted black.
Painting the Spectra Premium fuel tanks isn't required or even recommended. Per Kelvin Dodd at Moss Motors, for best paint adhesion you must clean the tank very, very carefully to remove the oily film that covers it.
Notice: we have not measured or compared a Spectra Premium MGB fuel tank to determine if they provide the same or more mounting depth for an in-tank fuel pump as compared to original OEM or other aftermarket MGB
fuel tanks. You should measure before cutting...
After the flange is soldered in, the module just drops in... but that's not the end of the job.
What about the fuel pump? I selected a modular fuel pump from a 1999 Chevrolet Malibu. This fuel pump is convenient to use because it mates to a relatively simple round flange in the horizontal top surface of a fuel tank.
The Malibu fuel pump module has more features than I chose to use - specifically it has a built-in fuel level sensor. I won't be using this feature, so I removed the float. I believe this pump's flow capacity is about 30 gallons per
hour.
The Malibu fuel pump produces 60 psi. That's a lot more than I needed or wanted, (probably too much for Ford's OEM fuel pressure regulator), but I'd already invested in a Kirban (aftermarket) adjustable fuel pressure
regulator which is easily set to the appropriate 38-39 psi for my fuel injectors.
Actually, the fuel pump I used came with a complete Malibu fuel tank - from the junk yard. The reason to start with a junk yard fuel pump is that you need to cut the mounting flange from a donor tank. We used a pneumatic
reciprocating saw to cut out the flange. Once removed, we neatly marked a circle around the flange, took it to a friend's shop, and used his belt sander to trim the flange down to that marked line. This left a round flange lip
that looked good.
The top surface of an MGB fuel tank has embossed ribs, and we decided to center the new fuel pump module over one of them. This embossment provided us with a challenge, but we met it by soldering spacers to the
tank to create a flat mating plane. Specifically, we soldered two quarter-inch thick steel plates to level the mounting surface. The edges of the steel filler plates were radiused to match the tank's embossment. After the
plates were soldered onto the tank, the flange was soldered onto the plates and tank rib.
As you can see in the photos, there are three ports on the Malibu fuel pump assembly. The center port is a vapor vent. Since it's redundant with the vent port that the MGB tank already has (next to the fuel filler inlet), we
capped the pump's vapor port. The other two ports are for inlet and for return. In some modern fuel injection systems the fuel injectors are provided more pressurized fuel than they can possibly use, and excess fuel is
pumped right past the injector inlets and returned to the fuel tank.
When it comes to wiring, we recommend that the fuel pump should be supplied from a relay. Pumps are very sensitive to voltage; they don't perform their best when they're operated at reduced power. A relay avoids this
issue by eliminating electrical resistance and subsequent voltage-drop in the fuel pump circuit. Power is provided by a new lead, with an inline fuse, which is routed over from the battery.
A "signal" is still required from the ignition switch to turn the relay "on" and "off". We used MG's original fuel pump lead for this purpose.
The Malibu fuel pump can move a great deal of fuel at relatively high pressure, so in the event of an accident it needs to be turned "off" promptly and reliably. For this reason, we also installed a new Ford fuel cut-off inertia
switch on the 12V supply circuit. (Note: 1975-80 MGB's came with a white inertia switch on the extreme righthand end of the firewall, cabin-side, but we chose to replace and relocate this function on my car.)
A final aspect of the installation was fitment of a sheetmetal shield to protect the module, fuel lines and wiring. My spare tire will still fit in the boot, over top this metal shield.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Kelly Stevenson. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
Photos by Kelly Stevenson for British V8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
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Disclose Everything: The First Rule of Insuring Modified Cars
by: Travis Overby
Half the fun of owning a sports car is making modifications to the engine or styling so that the car becomes uniquely yours. However, it's very important to remember than any modification may affect your insurance coverage,
either by voiding your policy when you most need it, making it difficult to renew, or causing a challenge when shopping for new coverage. Insurance experts advise: "disclose everything".
When it comes to calculating a premium, every car insurance company is slightly different, but there are some general principles that work across the board. Generally speaking:
The smaller your engine, the less expensive your insurance.
The less expensive your car, the less expensive your insurance.
The more common your vehicle, the less expensive your insurance.
All of these things tend to be in opposition to the average modified sports car. Modified vehicles tend to be more expensive, have larger engines, and include specially-fabricated, modified, or aftermarket parts. These features
make it difficult to compare a modified vehicle to a standard car, which, in turn, makes insurers perceive them as greater risks.
As well, all of these items are reasons why you must disclose every modification you've made to your car, during the shopping process. Not disclosing the changes you've made to your car will not only affect valuation (which
will otherwise be based on the standard configuration of your vehicle model), but may also void your policy if you're in an accident, and subsequently request replacement of damaged aftermarket parts.
Low-Risk Modifications
If you're shopping for insurance coverage and have already modified your car, disclose every single modification - even a rear spoiler could be considered a "kit" by some insurers. If you have insurance, and are considering
making (more) modifications, run them by your insurer before you proceed, just in case they'll cause an increase in your premium.
While most modifications can be worked out with your insurance company, there are some insurance-friendly details you should be aware of, and some specifics about what disclose everything really means.
Body Modifications: This includes anything that alters the exterior of your vehicle, even the rear spoiler mentioned above. Most body mods won't affect your premium much, unless they're extreme or extensive. If the
modifications to the exterior of the car include changes in the headlights, taillights, or brake lights, you may find yourself subject to detailed questions. As long as the light upgrades are both legal and sensible, there
isn't likely to be a problem, or a huge premium spike.
Brakes: Upgrading your standard brakes with better discs isn't an issue, but increasing the size of the discs and calipers may be cause for alarm. Be careful.
Engine Modifications: While the addition of an cold air induction kit probably won't cause much of a change in your premium, radical un-declared engine mods could cause your policy to be voided.
Interior Modifications: As with exterior (body) mods, as long as you don't do anything terribly excessive, your premium won't be affected much, if at all.
Security Devices: Unlike most other modifications, adding a tracking device, engine immobilizer, or security alarm can actually help reduce your insurance premium. Nevertheless, you should still check with your
insurance company before making any changes, as kill switches are sometimes illegal.
Suspension Changes: Most insurers won't have an issue if you drop your suspension about 30-40mm, but anything lower will likely cause an increase in your premium.
Wheels: Upgrading to a set of shiny new alloy wheels won't cost you money if you insurance is through a specialty carrier, a company that specializes in classic, performance, and modified cars, but a mainstream
insurer will likely charge you more for your coverage.
Saving Money with Modifications
While modifying your car will, at the least, cost you more money in insurance, and may require you to seek a specialty insurer, there are ways you can mitigate the cost difference. Here are a few:
Use a garage - storing your car in a secure, locked facility will reduce the perceived risk of ownership.
Be the only driver - multiple drivers means multiple driving records, as well as more risk of accidents.
Drive with caution - don't get caught speeding, and don't get pulled over - a clean driving record is even more important when you drive a modified car.
Major Modifications
All of this is very well and good if you aren't making major modifications. But what if you are swapping-in a V8 engine, installing a turbocharger, or doing some other major modification? What if your car has a full-body kit?
What then?
At that point your best bet is to seek coverage from a specialty insurer. While many such companies handle antiques and older collectibles, including vintage street rods, a growing number of insurers are now embracing
modified cars as well.
With specialty insurance, you still have to disclose all your modifications, but you'll be able to work with your insurance agent to come to a fair valuation for your vehicle, generally either stated value, where you insure your for
an amount greater than book value, and in the event of a total loss the payout will be the stated amount less depreciation, or agreed value, where you also insure your car for greater than blue-book value, but in the event of
a total loss the entire amount is paid out.
Such forms of coverage, however, come with caveats, such as:
In addition to an itemized list of all modifications, you'll probably have to provide photos of the car, and of the engine mods. In some cases, an appraisal may also be in order.
Specialty insurers are able to offer coverage because their clients generally have excellent driving records (no more than one moving violation in the past three years, and in some cases in five), and significant
experience behind the wheel. Some insurers express this as an age restriction - you must be at least twenty-five years old - while others simply require ten years of driving experience.
Most specialty insurers restrict the usage of your car: you must limit driving to pleasure trips only, not use it as your main form of transportation, and you also have to prove that you have a regular, daily use car,
that is registered and properly insured.
Garaging your car, while a good idea with mainstream insurance, is a requirement when it comes to specialty coverage.
Despite these restrictions specialty coverage has distinct advantages in addition to case-by-case valuation, and coverage that is based thereon. For example, specialty policies often have very small deductibles, and often
include coverage for a tow trailer, for people who tow their modified cars to events. As well, specialty companies that handle street racers and exotics often include special event coverage that will reimburse you if your car
breaks down en route.
Driving a modified sports car comes with its own special rush. While the cost of insurance may tempt you to do without, remember that driving without adequate coverage is financially risky. Disclose everything to your
insurance carrier, consider specialty insurance when you need to, and you will be able to find insurance that you can afford.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Travis Overby. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
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Upper left: the resistance-wire wrapped bimetallic element of an old-fashioned thermal Voltage Stabilizer.
Lower right: a solid-state electronic voltage regulator that can be used to replace it.
How To: Replace Your MGB's Thermal Voltage Stabilizer
Install a Solid State Regulator Inside the Lucas Case
text by: Curtis Jacobson
photos by: Jim Miller
Notes: this article references MGB equipment, schematics, etc., and the information may not be transferable to other vintage cars.
Background Information
Are you using original fuel level and coolant temperature gauges on your 1968 or later MGB? Unlike modern aftermarket gauges, these two old-fashioned gauges are thermal ("bimetallic") devices. Their indicator needle is
connected to a short beam constructed of two dissimilar metals. The beam is wrapped in resistance wire, which warms-up proportionally to the amount of electrical current passing through it. The gauge needle's position is
determined by flexion of the beam due to the differing thermal-expansion rates of the two metals. To work properly, the MG fuel level and coolant temperature gauges need to be used with an external Voltage Stabilizer.
(Note: the 1968-1972 MGB oil pressure gauge is also a thermal device. However, because of the unique nature of its sensor, it doesn't require a Voltage Stabilizer.)
The schematic drawing below, "Stock MGB Voltage Stabilizer Circuit" illustrates how the fuel and temperature gauges are wired. In summary, the gauges are designed to receive a constant supply voltage of 10 Volts and it's
the job of the Voltage Stabilizer to provide it. The fuel level and coolant temperature sensors, downstream of their respective gauges, are connected through their mountings to chassis/ground. The sensors act like variable
resistors; their resistance changes with fuel level or coolant temperature respectively.
The Voltage Stabilizer itself is nominally provided 12 Volts. However, we know from experience that the "voltage in" isn't so stable or predictable! A number of factors affect the supply voltage available, including: the battery's
state of charge, the output of the generator or alternator at any given moment (which may be affected by engine RPM), and whether various loads on the system are "on" or "off".
Regardless of how stable or predictable the 12 Volt supply is, the Voltage Stabilizer's purpose is to iron things out. As a generalization, you might say: "If the Voltage Stabilizer provides more than 10 Volts, both gauges will
read high. If it provides less than 10 Volts, both gauges will read low."
However, this generalization isn't strictly true - because the original MG Voltage Stabilizer doesn't actually regulate voltage at all! Instead, it cycles power "on" and "off" to achieve an average voltage (over time) of about 10
Volts. If you take an old-fashioned Voltage Stabilizer apart, you'll find a bimetallic element with a resistance wire wrapped around it (much like an automatic-reset circuit breaker, and not entirely unlike the gauges themselves.)
Heat in the resistance wire causes the bimetallic element to bend. The bimetallic element actually bends back and forth quite rapidly, and in turn it rapidly opens and closes a set of contact points. Thus, it switches between a
nominal supply voltage of about 12 Volts and a disconnected state (i.e. zero volts!) That suits old-fashioned, single-coil MGB gauges pretty well because they have a lot of mechanical dampening built into them. If your
gauges are sufficiently damped, you may not see that their needles constantly wiggling as the Voltage Stabilizer chatters on and off; you'll only perceive the "average" readings they're showing you.
By modern standards, thermal Voltage Stabilizers are inaccurate and inconsistent. Their output varies a lot between summertime and wintertime because their accuracy is affected by ambient temperature. Heat under the
dashboard (e.g. when your windscreen defrosters are turned "on") can cause a significant shift in gauge readings. Output may also vary over the life of the Voltage Stabilizer as the bimetallic element fatigues, as internal
contacts grow dirty, etc. If the resistance wire breaks, the Voltage Stabilizer will simply pass-through electrical current at continuous and unregulated voltage, so the old-fashioned thermal gauges will read high.
If your Voltage Stabilizer is old or broken, or if you just want to improve the accuracy and consistancy of your fuel level and coolant temperature gauges, you may want to consider converting to a modern solid-state
electronic voltage regulator.
IMPORTANT NOTE: if you replace your original MGB gauges with aftermarket gauges, you should probably remove and NOT replace your old-fashioned thermal Voltage Stablizer. (Jumper across the Voltage Stabilizer
connections.) Modern dual-coil gauges provides accurate information regardless of supply voltage, but they may not be adequately damped to accomodate the abrupt on/off cycling of a thermal Voltage Stabilizer.
Shopping List
Solid state voltage regulators are inexpensive, but they may be difficult to find locally. The easiest places to purchase them are online. "Google" the part numbers to identify potential suppliers.
National Semiconductor's "LM2940T-10.0" and NTE Electronics' "NTE1953" are low dropout (LDO) solid-state voltage regulators. If you supply either of them with a DC voltage between 10.5V and about 30V, they will
provide a constant output voltage of 10.0V. Similar to an old-fashioned bimetallic Voltage Stabilizer, they can't boost voltage: so if the supply voltage drops to below about 10.5V, these LDO's will "dropout" and simply pass
through whatever supply voltage is available.
Note: there are other alternative voltage regulators that could also be used. One example is Texas Instruments' part number "UA7810CKCS" (a.k.a. "7810" or "LM7810") which frankly you're probably more likely to find at
your local Radio Shack. The main advantage of the National Semiconductor or NTE Electronics devices is their somewhat lower dropout specification.
Also needed: just a few basics including a soldering iron, solder, about six inches of insulated wire, heat shrink tubing (or possibly electrical tape), etc.
Optional extras: a small LED lamp and a 1000 ohm resistor.
Solid State LDO Voltage Regulator Pin-Outs
left-to-right: VIN, "GND", VOUT
Make sure the solid state regulator is solidly grounded to the metal cover.
Directions
1. Disconnect the car's battery and remove the original Voltage Stabilizer from the car. (Note: the Voltage Stabilizer is mounted on the drivers-side firewall just above the steering column.)
2. Open the voltage regulator by carefully prying back the tabs that clamp the metal cover to the plastic base.
3. Cut and remove the old bimetallic regulator mechanism, being careful to leave enough of the two terminals for soldering wires onto them later.
4. Prepare your solid-state voltage regulator by cutting off the center of its three terminals. (This terminal is nominally a "ground" connection, and it would be redundant with the mounting tab in our installation. They're
connected internally...)
5. Using a short length of wire, jumper between the solid-state voltage regulator's VIN (12V in) terminal to the "B" terminal on the plastic base. Carefully solder both connections.
6. Using a short length of wire, jumper between the solid-state voltage regulator's VOUT (10V out) terminal to the "I" terminal on the plastic base. Carefully solder both connections.
7. The LED indicator is optional. Its purpose is just to show that the system is powered and grounded, and that the voltage regulator is functioning. The LED is connected at one end to the voltage regulator's 10V "OUT"
terminal, and at the other end it's connected to ground through a 1000 Ohm resistor.
8. To function properly, the solid-state regulator must be electrically well-grounded to the rest of the vehicle. Accomplish this by (first) connecting it to the voltage regulator's metal cover with a machine screw and nut.
Note: the voltage regulator itself must in turn be grounded to the car by its mounting. If the fasteners are corroded or dirty, they should be cleaned at this time.
Gently fold the edges of the metal cover back over the plastic base.
An optional LED simply indicates that the voltage regulator is powered, grounded, and functioning.
Disclaimer: This page was researched by Jim Miller and written by Curtis Jacobson.
Views expressed are those of the authors, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee.
Apply at your own risk.
Photos by Jim Miller for British V8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
The schematic drawing "Stock MGB Voltage Stabilizer Circuit" was derived from an Advance Auto-Wire schematic,
and was used here by permission.
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One of Larry's new Pulstar spark plugs, side-by-side with the Motorcraft plug it replaced
Notice that the two plugs seal differently. The Pulstar plug is flat and uses a gasket,
whereas the original Motorcraft plug has a tapered seat. Both plugs seem to seal fine.
Evaluating "Pulstar" Plugs
A whole new kind of spark plug... but are they worth their premium price?
by: Larry Shimp
Recent advertisements for Pulstar brand spark plugs have caught my attention. The claims seem too good to be true, but there seems to be little actual data (for or against.)
The theory is interesting: Pulstar plugs contain an internal capacitor. A capacitor is like a battery in that it can be charged and then can store the charge. In contrast to a battery, charge capacity is small but the rate of
discharge is very rapid. When a spark pulse is created in an ignition coil, the voltage rises rapidly, but not instantly. At the point when the voltage is high enough to ionize the gas between the spark plug electrodes, the
resistance between the electrodes drops nearly to zero, and the current begins to flow from the coil creating the spark. With a Pulstar plug, the initial voltage rise from the coil charges the capacitor. Like a dead battery, the
capacitor soaks up the charge and does not create a high discharge voltage potential until the capacitor is fully charged. Once the capacitor is charged, the voltage potential across the plug electrodes is enough to instantly
ionize the gas and create a spark, at which time the capacitor rapidly releases all of its stored charge. The net effect is a large increase in voltage with a corresponding decrease in spark duration. Under certain
circumstances, this can be advantageous, but it is not effective in all situations.
Fuel mixtures can be lean (excess oxygen), stoichiometric (exactly the right amount of oxygen), or rich (not enough oxygen). From the factory, modern fuel injected cars are calibrated to run more or less with a stoichiometric
mixture under most conditions. This is because a catalytic converter cannot remove oxygen from nitric oxides if an excess of oxygen is present. But if there is no excess oxygen, the converter can transfer oxygen from the
nitric oxides to hydrocarbons that have not completely burned. This reduces the nitric oxides to harmless nitrogen and converts the hydrocarbons to carbon dioxide and water.
At light throttle conditions and idle, the fuel calibration is more towards lean because there is not enough heat to form nitric oxides. (Nitric oxides are formed by a reaction between the oxygen and nitrogen in the air at high
temperatures.) Under full throttle, the mixture goes rich for maximum power, and there is a spike in emissions, but this is allowed because the duration is so short.
With a carburetor, the same trends in conditions should exist as with fuel injection except there isn't enough precision to run at stoichiometric mixtures. The mixture is usually lean for "factory" emissions calibrations where it
would be stoichiometric for fuel injection. The lean mixture can affect throttle response, so for many performance applications car owners recalibrate their carburetor to be on the rich side and not the lean side. In fact, with
many V8 conversions, the only time the mixture is lean is at cold start-up.
Lean mixtures are difficult to ignite and burn slowly, rich mixtures are easy to ignite and burn quickly, but not completely, and stoichiometric mixtures are intermediate in their combustion characteristics. The intense but short
duration flash generated by the Pulstar plug is very effective in igniting lean mixtures, somewhat more effective for stoichiometric mixtures, but has little or no effect on rich mixtures.
Rapid ignition of the mixture is desirable. It generates more power because combustion is completed while the piston is closer to the top of the stroke (the smaller combustion chamber volume generates more pressure).
Because lean mixtures burn slowest, the maximum benefit of the Pulstar plug will be realized on an engine that is calibrated on the lean side. Other ways of helping a lean mixture burn effectively are by advancing the ignition
timing (vacuum advance is especially effective) and producing multiple sparks; such as with an MSD ignition system. Some multiple spark systems can generate up to six sparks per combustion cycle at low rpm which helps
to get the mixture ignited and can avoid a misfire; but the last spark is over 20 degrees later than the first spark, and very little power is generated if the mixture finally ignites on the 6th spark. It is much better if the first spark
ignites the mixture, and so the Pulstar plugs are useful even with a multiple spark ignition system.
My car has a carburetor which I set up with a lean fuel mixture at cruise, but I did keep it rich under acceleration so power is still optimal. However, the lean mixture makes for a slow warm-up (especially because I do not have
a choke), and in cold weather (below about 40 degrees) there is not enough fuel for the cooler, denser air, so I experience some lean surging and hesitation below about 1500 rpm in the winter. Knowing this, I was eager to
try a set of Pulstar plugs.
As I expected, the plugs made a very noticeable improvement. The engine now idles after about a minute of running following a cold start in 20 degree weather. Previously, I would have to wait until the temperature gauge
started to register which could take up to 5 minutes. Furthermore, the initial cold idle is reasonably smooth. It's just at a lower rpm than it is after full warm up. After about a mile of driving (in 20 degree weather) all signs of
lean surge and hesitation are gone and the car feels more responsive overall at all temperatures. It is obvious that my lean mixture is burning much better with the Pulstar plugs and fuel economy increases bear this out. On
three tanks of gas (with my Ford 302) I got, 20, 20, and 21 mpg. This was in local, not highway driving. Previously the best I ever got under such conditions was 18 mpg, with 17 being more normal. Since the weather is quite
variable this time of year, there have been some very warm days as well as cold days. On warm days I have noticed that the cooling fans run much less often than before, and this is another sign of increased efficiency.
Ultimately, I expect that there will be a significant improvement in highway fuel economy (which is typically 25/26 mpg). However, I need to take a long trip to find out, and I have not done so yet.
While my results seem very good, I have to emphasize that it is because I run a lean (cruise) mixture. Because rich mixtures ignite easily (unless they are extremely rich) I do not think there will be much of a benefit from the
Pulstar plugs with a rich calibration except when the engine is cold. Furthermore, I think a rich mixture may even damage the Pulstar plugs. The internal capacitor builds up very high voltages and if the plug has high
resistance deposits on the electrodes, the voltage may build up further before the plug fires. These excessive voltages can break down the internal insulation. This is supported by the warning with the plugs about the
importance of not exceeding the recommended plug gap. (A large gap also increases the voltage.)
In summary, Pulstar plugs can be very beneficial for a carbureted engine that runs slightly lean (and perhaps for a fuel injection system), but not for an engine that runs rich most of the time.
Editor's Note: Larry advises that after submitting this article, on the long trip to and from the BritishV8 2008 meet, his average fuel economy improved to between 27 and 28 mpg. With the previous spark plugs Larry would
have expected between 25 and 26 mpg.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Larry Shimp. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
Photos by Larry Shimp for BritishV8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
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British V8 2008 Autocross and Weigh-In Results
compiled by: Curtis Jacobson
DRIVER
FROM CAR
ENGINE
AUTO-X (personal best in bold)
Carl Floyd
TN
79 MGB
Buick 215
DNF
Brian McCullough MN
80 MGB
GM 3.4 V6 1.10.43+1 57.10
55.13+3 55.45
Martyn Harvey
ONT
80 MGB
Rover 3.5
1.01.08
58.60
56.60
56.15
2326 (555, 613, 598, 560, full)
Max Fulton
NC
74.5 MGB
MG I4
59.20
56.54+2 (56.39) 56.47
2339 (569, 599, 602, 569, 1/4)
54.56
54.06
(56.43)
(not weighed)
2250 (574, 593, 547, 537, full)
Joe Schafer
MI
71 MGB
Ford 302
1.05.37
1.00.25 DNF
Pete Mantell
IL
69 MGB
Ford 302
1.02.40
58.05+1
DNF
1.05.15 1.02.55 1.00.31
2195 (567, 586, 526, 517, 3/4)
1.00.81
2019 (549, 549, 464, 458, half)
Tony Andrews
MD
75 MGB
Rover 3.9
Scott Costanzo
OH
68 MGB
GM 3.4 V6 1.06.08
57.63
LBS (FL, FR, RL, RR, fuel)
(not weighed)
2305 (552, 583, 581, 589, 7/8)
Artie Clark
OH
68 MGB
GM 3.4 V6 (1.06.19) (1.01.57)
Merv Hagen
IL
80 MGB
Buick 215
1.28.12
1.14.26 1.04.84
2253 (549, 588, 590, 526, half)
Peter Smith
ONT
76 MGB
Rover 3.5
1.09.10
1.06.49
(not weighed)
David Tetlow
UK
75 MGB
Rover 3.5
Dave Kirkman
IL
80 MGB
Ford 302
2364 (589, 612, 594, 569, full)
76 MGB
Ford 302
2278 (592, 614, 546, 526, half)
Graham Creswick ONT
2019 (549, 549, 464, 458, half)
2473 (592, 657, 630, 594, half)
Curtis Jacobson
CO
71 MGB-GT
Buick 215
DNF
1.00.25 58.27
Larry Shimp
NJ
68 MGB-GT
Ford 302
DNF
1.10.29 59.60
2180 (538, 529, 566, 547, full)
2568 (650, 620, 643, 654, full)
Jim Ohnstad
SD
74 MGB-GT
GM 3.4 V6 1.06.82
1.02.93
2428 (586, 577, 628, 638, full)
DNF
Steve DeGroat
GA
70 MGB-GT
GM 3.1 V6
Mike Maloney
OH
71 MGB-GT
Rover 3.9
1.08.61 1.05.42+1 (not weighed)
Terry Schulte
SD
74 MGB-GT
Ford 302
2392 (639, 621, 561, 571, ?)
Roadmaster
KY
69 MGB-GT
Buick 455
1957 (552, 547, 427, 437, none)
1.14.25
(not weighed)
Bob Kaul
WI
59 TR3A
Triumph I4
Ken Hiebert
ONT
72 TR6
GM LT1 V8 1.04.97
2096 (566, 559, 493, 479, full)
Katie Ermakovich ONT
72 TR6
GM LT1 V8 (1.14.80) (1.11.12)
Mike Budde
WI
79 TVR 3000M Ford 302
Richard Moor
IN
69 Avenger
GM 3.8 V6
Jon McCullough
MN
78 924
GM LS1 V8 1.05.52
Jim Blackwood
KY
Lincoln
Ford V8
1.07.15+4 107.59
(not weighed)
Steve Carrick
MI
Blazer
GM V6
1.03.10
(not weighed)
1.06.20
1.03.21 DNF
1.00.02
2769 (697, 655, 683, 735, 3/4)
2769 (697, 655, 683, 735, 3/4)
1.01.53 58.42
57.62
2349 (594, 552, 568, 635, 7/8)
2330 (367, 458, 791, 715, ?)
56.65
55.72
(59.37)
2516 (628, 686, 620, 582, full)
Notes:
1) The list doesn't include all meet attendees or cars! It's does list cars which were either weighed or autocrossed.
2) One second penalties were assessed for each traffic cone knocked over or pushed out of position.
3) "DNF" indicates that the car left the designated course before completing its run.
Times marked in parenthesis indicate that a borrowed car was driven, as follows:
1) Carl Floyd drove Curtis Jacobson's MGB-GT
2) Max Fulton drove Martyn Harvey's MGB
3) Artie Clark drove Scott Costanzo's MGB
4) Katie Ermakovich drove Ken Hiebert's TR6
5) Steve Carrick drove Curtis Jacobson's MGB-GT
Pete Mantell Weighed BritishV8 Participant Cars (photos by Curtis Jacobson)
Jon McCullough and his 78 Porsche 924 V8 (2516#)
Mike Budde and his 79 TVR 3000M V8 (2349#)
Ken Hiebert and his 72 TR6 V8 (2769#)
The Roadmaster Project Team's 69 MGB GT (1957#, sans engine)
Terry Schulte and his 74 MGB GT V8 (2392#)
Jim Ohnstad and his 74 MGB GT V6 (2428#)
Larry Shimp and his 68 MGB GT V8 (2568#)
Curtis Jacobson and his 71 MGB GT V8 (2180#)
Graham Creswick and his 76 MGB V8 (2278#)
Dave Kirkman and his 80 MGB V8 (2364#)
David Tetlow and his 75 MGB V8 (2473#)
Merv Hagen and his 80 MGB V8 (2253#)
Scott Costanzo and his 68 MGB V6 (2019#)
Tony Andrews and his 75 MGB V8 (2195#)
Pete Mantell and his 69 MGB V8 (2305#)
Max Fulton and his 74.5 MGB I4 (2339#)
Martyn Harvey and his 80 MGB V8 (2326#)
Brian McCullough and his 80 MGB V6 (2250#)
Cars that Autocrossed But Weren't Weighed (photos by Graham Creswick)
Jim Blackwood and his bigass Lincoln
Steve DeGroat and his 70 MGB-GT V6
Peter Smith and his 76 MGB V8
Joe Schafer and his 71 MGB V8
Carl Floyd and his 80 MGB V8
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Congratulations to our New Champion - Paul Schils!
British V8 2008 Valve Cover Racing Results
by: Curtis Jacobson
Valve cover racing is a GREAT SPECTATOR SPORT - and not just for men - the races seem to be equally popular with women and youngsters too.
This year's BritishV8 valve cover races saw a two hundred percent increase in participation from 2007. A loud cheering crowd witnessed thrills, spills, and wipe-outs normally more associated with NASCAR than with drag
racing. And this was nothing like that sissy-boy, wannabe "sport" they call "bracket racing". Our BritishV8 competitors run all-in and mano-a-mano like they're racing for pink-slips. You won't find an automatic tranny under our
valve cover racers!
Frankly, I forgot to take notes about the actual races. Paul Schils won convincingly. Paul and Bill were both real good sports. The kids had fun. The cars were diverse. Here are the basic specs of the three cars:
DRIVER
FROM
ENGINE
LBS
TRACK
WHEELS
Paul Schils
Fredonia WI
BMC (B-Series)
12.0
6.375"
2.5"
Wheelbase
10.25"
Bill Young
Kansas City MO
BMC (A-Series)
9.8
7.0"
2.0"
8.75"
Curtis Jacobson
Longmont CO
Oldsmobile V8
12.0
11.5"/0.25" (F/R)
3.75"/4" (F/R)
16.375"
Hmmmm. Thinking about it... Maybe it's the sheer brute machismo of the sport that has deterred "some" from competing in the BritishV8 valve cover racing arena. Maybe you, dear reader, are afraid of a little competition?
Chic-chic-chic-chic chicken...! I'm sure more than a few of our spectators were shaking in their boots thinking "I just wish I could screw up the courage to be a real man like Paul Schils, Bill Young, or Curtis Jacobson." Well,
you'll get another chance. The rules are so simple. The costs are so low. You have all winter to build a car. Once you build it, you can mail it off to next year's meet organizers (Max Fulton and Emily Turner) - so you don't
even need to pull a trailer all the way to North Carolina to compete. Our competition rules are listed below.
Paul Schils's winning racecar was built from an MGB engine (BMC "B-Series 1.8L 4-cylinder) valve cover.
It seemed to benefit very greatly from spring-suspension!
Bill Young's Advice About Building a Valve Cover Racer
What You Need
Valve cover - It doesn’t make any difference what type, as long as it's not too big to fit the rules: less than 24" long and less than 18" wide. Inline 6 cylinder covers and Chrysler "Hemi" covers start pushing the limits. Most
of us either have an old valve cover laying around the shop or know where we can get one from a friend on the cheap. If you want to go "top drawer" it's up to you. I once saw a valve cover racer made from a Lotus "Twin
Cam" cover. Now that's getting rare and probably expensive! Incidentally, all sorts of classic car valve covers are available on eBay, and they often sell for less than $15 each.
Wheels - Less than 6" in diameter. That's it, nothing special needed, but the better the bearings the better the car will roll. Here's a case where wide rubber may not be the best, but let the builder decide what works for his
car. All sorts of suitable wheels are available on eBay or at your local big-box or sporting goods store. "Inline skate" wheels are popular, as are somewhat larger diameter scooter wheels. Visit "www.skates.com" to see
literally hundreds of high quality rubber wheels from 44mm to over 100mm in diameter. (Note that they offer different "rubber" materials and hardnesses!)
Weight - This is a trade off, more weight equals more energy for the (downhill) launch area, but also more friction on the wheels. (The track has a long level section!) Test and balance the weight-to-friction for your car,
because it may run better with a little less than maximum weight of 12 pounds. Weight and its placement will effect the car's stability. Where to find weight? Steel or lead shot for reloading shotgun shells will work nicely.
Steel shot is also available for media tumbling, from tool sources such as Harbor Freight Tools. (Expect to pay about $25 for 25 pounds.) Add a plastic bottle or cloth bag that will fit inside the cover and fill to the required
level. You can put marks on the bottle to correlate fill level to weight level. Your local post office has an accurate scale in their lobby upon which you can verify that your car is under the legal weight limit. Note: your excess
shot will also works great in "shot bags" for sheet metal forming.
Design Advice
Do you need to have suspension or other high tech elements? Your call. It really depends on the smoothness of the area where you are racing. I learned something this year and I will look into suspension for my car for
future events. One bounce, and you may wind up off-line and run out of your lane or hit the opponent resulting in a loss. Paul Schils, the 2008 winner, had a nice spring suspension. It worked great! Paul's car went
straight-as-an-arrow, despite the abrupt transition from launch area to flat ground.
Bill Young's low-slung racer featured chrome radiator surround, side exhaust, and a driver!
Valve covers come in all sizes. Bill's cover fits a BMC "A-Series" (803-1275cc 4-cylinder) engine.
Notice: Valve Cover Racing provides kids a nice way to PARTICIPATE in our meets.
Why not build a valve cover racecar to share? Then, let somebody's kid race it for you.
Hint: you can bring a valve cover racer even if you don't bring your "real" car. Bill did!
Last year's winning entry, the "Retro Rocket" was built with a "spooled" single-bearing rear axle to reduce
friction. It was very quick, but too fragile. It was pulling away from the competition in the first heat, running
straight and true, but before it got clear it was clipped and spun-out by the other car. Like NASCAR, valve
cover racing is a rough sport! The Retro Rocket never ran quite straight enough after that heat!
Will we see a more robust development of the design next year?
Rules for BritishV8's Valve Cover Races
(other clubs will differ)
The Cars
The cars shall have no power source. All motive power is provided by gravity.
Cars shall be based on an actual rocker cover or cam cover (valve cover) from a car engine.
There shall be no limitation on engine make, model, cylinder configuration, or displacement.
Wheel base shall be no more than 24 inches.
(Note: The staging lane is only 24 inches long.)
Wheel track shall be no more than 14 inches.
Cars must have 4 wheels, each no greater than 6 inches in diameter.
Cars shall weigh up to but certainly not more than exactly 12 pounds.
The Course
The course shall consist of a launch incline 8 feet long, followed by a level run of 20 feet.
Two lanes shall divide the launch incline, each 2 feet wide.
The incline shall be 2 feet high at the rearmost part and level with the course at the front edge.
The front edge shall be mitered so as to provide a smooth transition from the incline to the run out area.
The official "Starting Line" shall be 2 feet from the rear edge of the incline.
A mechanized starting gate, which is 2 inches high, shall be used.
The run out section of the course shall consist of 2 lanes, each 3 feet wide.
The lanes shall be clearly marked.
The finish line shall be marked 20 feet from the front edge of the launch incline.
The Races
Cars will be run in heats of 2 cars each.
The cars are to be launched with their front wheels on the starting line.
(Note: If your car's design doesn't allow this, it's to your disadvantage.)
The first car to have its front wheels cross the finish line shall be declared the winner.
If neither car makes it to the finish line, the car going farthest shall be declared the winner.
If a car's wheels touch or cross over the lane markers, that car shall be disqualified.
The remaining car shall be declared the heat winner.
Winning cars will advance to the next round until all are eliminated - except one champion!
Photos by Curtis Jacobson, Brian Kraus (autocross background) and Ken Hiebert (cars at the starting gate),
for BritishV8 Magazine. All rights reserved.
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British V8 2008 Tech Sessions
by: Curtis Jacobson
Project Roadmaster (presented by Jim Blackwood)
Jim Blackwood led a hands-on tech session that got BritishV8 participants actively engaged in the "Roadmaster" project. That's right - wrenches were turned. If you're not already familiar with Project Roadmaster, you may
like to read these earlier articles: MGB Roadmaster - Status Report 1 & MGB Roadmaster - Status Report 2.
Bolting doors back onto the bodyshell might not seem like a major accomplishment, but more important changes were taking place in quiet conversations. Several key players and vendors stepped forward and committed to
helping the project move forward. A less-rusty bodyshell will be procurred, and key mechanical components will be transferred over. Terry Schulte committed that his shop will put a first-class paint job on the car when the
time comes for that.
See? Plenty of room! A big block Buick V8 (455cid) fits like a glove into the "Project Roadmaster" MGB-GT.
Poston "S-Divider" intake manifold (part #B-455) is aluminum, and will reduce weight somewhat.
Modified front crossmember (note the steering rack brackets).
Narrowed Jaguar independent rear suspension.
Jaguar inboard disc brakes, and Chevy Corvette master cylinder.
For the time being, the Roadmaster is resting on mis-matched (Jag and Corvette) wheels - but that will change!
Fast Cars (presented by Ted Lathrop)
Paul Schils arranged use of a local shop's car lift, so that we could get up close and have a personal look at the Fast Cars suspensions, as installed on Terry Schulte's MGB-GT. We've discussed these suspensions in
great detail in previous articles, so rather than repeat that discussion we'll refer you to our previous coverage: Fast Cars MGB Front Suspension & Fast Cars 3-link Rear Suspension. You may also want to review the rest
of Terry's MGB GT V8 here.
Ted Lathrop explains features of Terry Schulte's MGB GT V8
Simple, robust motor mounts for the small block Ford V8 engine.
Plumbing for the Ford engine's remote oil filter.
The oil filter is mounted below the driver-side headlamp bucket.
A Ford 8 inch rear axle is used in conjunction with the Fast Cars Inc. 3-link rear suspension.
The MGB's front leaf spring mounts are probably the weakest point on the chassis.
Fast Cars Inc. reinforces them by adding a brace forward along the floorboard.
Mantell Motorsport (presented by Pete Mantell)
Pete showed up a full range of upgrade options for MGB braking, including even the potential option of installing MGC-sized components onto an MGB. It was a nice show-and-tell, where we could all handle and
examine real parts in person. Here are a few of the parts that I took snapshots of:
Toyota "4Runner" brake calipers (part #'s C8554 & C8555) are becoming popular as a bolt-on upgrade for MGC.
However, with a little creativity and development work, Pete thinks they might be a good option for MGB too.
Notice that these 4-piston Toyota calipers feature two larger and two smaller pistons. This is to even out pad wear.
On most cars, the "trailing" edges of the brake pads operate hotter and thus wear faster than the "leading" edges.
This is a cross-drilled and grooved MGB rotor, from EBC in England.
This lightweight aluminum Wilwood brake caliper is part of the Classic Conversions Engineering "big brake" kit.
To go with the Wilwood caliper, this is a "big brake kit" rotor and five-lug hug adapter from Classic Conversions.
Advance Auto-Wire (presented by Steve Carrick)
At the British V8 Meet we learned some exciting news for fans of Advance Auto-Wire's excellent wiring systems. Steve Carrick has purchased the assets of the company and he'll be continuing its operations.
(Steve has also renewed Advance Auto-Wire's commitment to supporting BritishV8 by sponsoring two articles in this edition of our online magazine.) If you're not already familiar with Advance Auto-Wire, you
may want to review these two articles from our archives: Installing a Wiring Kit (with Dan Masters) and Installing a Wiring Kit (with Greg Myer)
Classic Conversions Engineering (presented by Bill Guzman)
Bill's tech session was primarily a discussion of his new rear suspension design (although we talked a little about brakes too). If you'd like to know more about Bill's suspension, please refer to British
V8 Magazine's article archive (Volume XV, Issue 3): The NEW "Classic Conversions" MGB 4-link Rear Suspension. A few small updates have been made to the suspension since the article was
written. Notably, Bill has changed to a different supplier for shock absorbers (Carrera) and for link rods (AFCO Racing Products). The coil springs will now be chrome plated. The brackets will be
powder-coated black.
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Curtis Jacobson. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own
risk.
Photo by Curtis Jacobson. All rights reserved.
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Joe and Debra Schafer on a BritishV8 Outing (photo by Katie Ermakovich)
British V8 2008 - Group Outings and Parties
by: Curtis Jacobson
We Toured the Experimental Aircraft Association Museum (at Oshkosh, WI)
The EAA Museum in Oshkosh Wisconsin exhibits a huge and spectacular collection of aircraft, with special emphasis on small, lightweight, pioneering, and homebuilt models. It's a fascinating place to spend a couple days
and to learn a lot about aviation. The museum's engine collection is particularly interesting; it features many cut-away engines that facilitate comparison of technical and construction details. You can see how the state of the
art in aviation engines progressed throughout the twentieth century.
To get all you can from a visit to the EAA Museum, keep looking up!
Larry Shimp and Bill Dudley inspect "Air Racing" airplanes (e.g. Bonzo and the Laird Super Solution)
Overweight lumps like the small block Chevy and the BMC B-Series need not apply.
(Larry Shimp, Tony Andrews, and Bill Dudley discover an Olds 215 aluminum V8.)
Few automobile engines have been successfully converted for aviation use. The GM aluminum V8 is one.
A dry-sump lubrication system is employed. The reservoir is mounted just behind the carburetor.
A special carburetor was required to facilitate the inverted mounting configuration.
A Stromberg NA-S3A carburetor was selected for the application.
Using an adapter plate, the Stromberg carburetor mounts to a standard Buick/Olds 215 intake manifold.
An engine from a previous era, this "Church Model V-8 248" utilized Ford automobile engine components.
The Church V-8 248 was an air-cooled, low compression engine design.
The Church V-8 never saw high-volume production, but it didn't lack for style!
At the EAA Musuem, you'll find cut-away engine displays around every bend.
(Some of the displays are as ingenious as the items displayed within them.)
Rotary and radial engines feature interesting cam and counterweight details. Incidentally, what's the
difference between a "rotary" and a "radial" engine? Rotary designs were popular earlier in aviation
history. In a rotary engine the crankshaft stays fixed and the rest of the engine (and the propeller)
rotates around the crankshaft. At first glance, a radial engine looks similar - but in a radial engine the
crankshaft and propeller rotate while the cylinders maintain a fixed position relative to the fuselage!
We Toured the Road America Race Track (at Elkhart Lake, WI)
Katie Ermakovich, enjoying the sunshine in Ken Hiebert's TR6
BritishV8 2008 participants enjoy a high speed tour of Road America
We toured Road America's off-track facilities at lower speed...
... and we stopped for lunch at Road America's "Gear Box" restaurant.
(Did you notice the new wheels on Larry Shimp's GT?)
Siebkens Stop-Inn is the real landmark in downtown Elkhart Lake. (Is there an equally famous "racer's bar"?)
Scenes from the 1969 movie "Winning", with racer and sometimes-actor Paul Newman, were filmed here.
The "Spurious" crew obviously had a great time, and enjoyed a few refreshing beverages.
Let's see here... Back row, left-to-right: Carl Floyd, Graham Creswick, Pete Mantell, Max Fulton.
Center: Mike Maloney, Rick Ingram, Richard Moor. Front: Dave Kirkman, Ted Lathrop, Steve Carrick.
We Envied Mary's Beautiful Garden & had a Delightful "Badgerland Bash"
No really... the pictures don't do Mary's gardens justice. Just beautiful!
We had nice live music too, but not so loud as to inhibit conversation.
The food was magnificent, servings were generous, and by this time we were entering a blissful "food coma"!
Some of us couldn't help taking a few sneak peaks at Paul's latest project...
Paul Schils' Ford-V8 powered MGB tourer will complement his Buick-V8 powered GT.
(An "MG family", the Schils also have a lovely stock MGB and a handsome MGA.)
Custom through-the-fender headers...
...into an x-pipe exhaust crossover.
We Enjoyed a Banquet and Auction (at our host hotel in Port Washington, WI)
While we enjoyed our annual banquet and fundraising auction, a tornado passed nearby outside!
(left to right) Joe & Debra Schafer, Kelly Stevenson, Richard Woodley, Terry & David Tetlow, and Carl Floyd.
Our lovely hostess, Mary Schils, gets a squeeze from hot-shoe driver Carl Floyd.
Auctioneer Pete Mantell (left) of "Mantell Motorsports" orchestrated the kick-off fundraiser for next year's meet.
Rick Ingram of "Pieces of Eight" gives him a hand at displaying the many auctioned items.
Rick Ingram helps Bill Guzman and Mike Maloney increase their auction bids!
(That's not a bottle of wine. It's the pressure-bottle for an engine pre-lube system.)
Disclaimer: This page was researched and written by Curtis Jacobson. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at
your own risk.
Photo by Curtis Jacobson, Katie Ermakovich, Ken Hiebert, and Martyn Harvey (see above for specific credits).
All rights reserved by BritishV8 Magazine.
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Winner, Banner Class : Martyn Harvey
Results of the Second Annual British V8 Photo Contest
by: Dan Master, Official Contest Judge
And the winners are...
People Having Fun With Performance-Modified British Sports Cars
"To be a winner or runner-up in this class, photos must include both people and cars. No exceptions. It must be possible for a reasonably knowledgeable enthusiast to spot some detail of the car that's modified from 'original'.
Points will be given for composition and craft... and also for how much fun the people are having and for how cool the performance mods are. Judges will give preference to photos that look good when re-sized or cropped to
600 pixels wide by 450 pixels tall."
Winner : Graham Creswick (photo of Carl Floyd autocrossing at British V8 2008)
1st Runner-Up : Bernie Posey (photo of Mike Maloney drag racing at British V8 2005)
2nd Runner-Up : Gerald Kannenberg (How Wide is his GT6? A lot wider than his adorable daughter!)
Photographers Having Fun With Performance-Modified British Sports Cars
"To be a winner or runner-up in this class, photos must show the modification in a glamorous way. Showing a badge, decal or painted logo that indicates or suggests the existence of a modification counts too. The photo
doesn't need to contain people. Points will be given for the photographer's creativity, composition and craftsmanship. Photos should look great when cropped or resized to 700 pixels wide by about 200 pixels tall. The
photos may be cropped before submission, or the actual cropping may be left to the judges' imagination."
This year's Banner Class Winner was Martyn Harvey. Martyn's winning photo showed BritishV8 2008 Meet participants caravaning to the Experimental Aircraft Association museum in Oshkosh Wisconsin. (The photo
appears above, at the top of this article.)
1st Runner-Up : David Petrikas (photo of his Alpine at the "Festival of Sporting Cars" Oran Park, New South Wales, June 2008)
2nd Runner-Up : Martyn Harvey (photo of BritishV8 2008 Meet participants entering Road America, Elkhart Lake, Wisonsin)
Judge's Closing Few Words
Nitwit... Blubber... Oddement... Tweak!
To Everyone Who Entered Our Contest:
THANK YOU!
Honorable Mentions (arranged in random order)
Mary Schils: Sandblasting media piling up deep in the yard.
Brian McCullough: "Who can resist a photo of little kids playing in a dissassembled British car?"
Graham Creswick: "Who can resist a photo of little kids playing in a dissassembled British car?"
(Project Roadmaster - aka B.A.D.A.S.S. - officers Jim Blackwood and Steve DeGroat.)
Roberta McCullough: Autocrossing is a family activity for the McCulloughs!
(If you looked inside the helmet, you'd find Roberta's son Brian McCullough.)
Bill Young: "Busted!" (B.A.D.A.S.S. officers Jim Blackwood, Steve DeGroat, and Carl Floyd)
Bill Guzman: "People Having Fun With V6-Powered MGB Sports Cars"
(Scott Costanzo, Harvey Leichti, Brian McCullough, and Jim Ohnstad.)
Disclaimer: This contest was judged by Dan Masters. Views expressed are those of the author, and are provided without warrantee or guarantee. Apply at your own risk.
Copyright 2008 by British V8 Magazine. All rights reserved. Respective photography credits are as listed above.
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Autumn 2008 - British V8

Transcription

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