Super Longtail

S U M M E R
2 0 1 1
Mud Buddy
Celebrating summer with fall colors.
Hottie Cover
$129
How often did you race to your favorite duck
hunting hole, scramble to get set up and then
wait for the engine to cool to finish hiding
your rig. You didn’t dare toss your expensive
travel cover over the engine. Wet grass and
reeds would do but they create a smoldering
mess.
Super Longtail
Hang on to your hat.
Is it practical and economical to add an electric clutch neutral and
belt drive to a longtail? Traditional longtail users often asked the
question, thinking a larger propeller and more power would make
pushing large boats easier. We knew it could be done, but we
also thought it would be expensive and the power might be a
handful.
With that in mind we took the challenge and designed an easy to
run longtail that matches the price needs of todays market.
Wasn’t easy, but it’s done. Summer 2011
Inside this issue:
Micah Triplett
Give your engine some
love. P 2.
LarryD - Larry Dobbe
I soon learned that I had a
skill for running into sand
bars and stumps. P 4.
Glenn Foreman
Innovation from our
garage to yours. P 5.
Gun Doc – Don Berry
Deadbird – Gary Kutak
Rick McCurley
Summertime duck
scouting tips. P 12.
Boat and trailer service.
P 6.
Corrosion is your number
one enemy. P 7.
The Hotti motor cover is lined with silicone
impregnated fiberglass cloth that can take the
heat – as much as 800 degrees claims the
manufacturer. But we have found that even a
1000-degree muffler can be covered within
seconds after turning the engine off.
However, we have learned that it is best to
wait 60 to 90 seconds to ensure the trapped
heat does not cook your wiring and rubber
components.
The Hotti cover camo choices are Nat Gear,
Max-4 and Duck Blind. Duck blind seems to
be the most popular. The grassing straps
make it easy to add natural grass and reeds.
The weighted cover needs no tie down straps
while hunting and the handle is fully covered.
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Give your engine some love.
adjust your valves
By Micah Triplett
If you live in a high humidity area or in radical
changes of weather use a heat product with alcohol
to dissipate water in the fuel.
Take care of your engine and you can count on your
mud motor for many years of hard use. These
engines are air-cooled and rely on free flowing air
and oil to keep them at proper running temperature.
When running your engine in 35F or colder run a
cold weather fuel treatment, change your fuel filter
every fifty hours or once every year.
You should always keep an eye on your oil level.
When low you will cause premature wear from heat
and lack of lubrication. If you over fill the engine
you will cause blow by which can cause spark plug
fowling and will lead to
extensive carbon build up
in your combustion
chamber and around the
valve heads. Change your
oil at ten hours when
breaking in a new engine.
And I recommend other
changes at twenty five to
forty hours. Change
every season prior to
storage regardless of
time. A by-product of
combustion is acid, which deposits in the oil. If left
in the oil over long periods of storage, pitting can
occur on engine parts. Run a good grade of 10W30. I prefer Valvoline.
Spark plugs are one of most neglected components
of an engine. They can fowl with time so you
should always keep a set in
your boat toolbox.
Change your spark plugs every
fifty hours and gap them at
.032 for a proper burn.
Adjusting your valves is very
important. A new engine
should be adjusted at ten hours
then every fifty hours.
You can easily adjust your
engine valves. Begin with a
cold engine. Facing the engine, remove the right
cylinder head spark plug and disconnect the kill
switch. Turn the engine on and engage the electric
clutch. Rotate the prop (wear gloves since worn
props are very sharp) until the piston gets to the top
dead center on the compression stroke. Your valves
will be ready to set at this point. Remove the valve
cover and adjust the valves. When on the
compression stroke both rocker arms are in the
upward position, valves are closed and there should
be a little bit of slack on both of them. If one or both
are tight you aren't on the compression stroke. Set
valve clearance at .006 to .008. Loosen adjuster nut
on rocker arm, slide gauge in between roller and
valve stem. Turn screw in until you have tension on
the feeler gauge and lock the adjuster nut down.
Adjust intake and exhaust the same, once you have
that side set your ready to adjust the other cylinder.
Your fuel system is very important to your engine.
Make sure there no air leaks, an air leak will cause
an engine to run in a lean condition, which will
cause your engine to run very hot, and you will
notice power loss and hard starting. Check the
intake connections and seals. Run premium fuel
with little or no ethanol. If you run your fuel tank
more than six feet from the engine make sure you
run a 5/16 in diameter fuel line. You can use a
primer bulb but quick disconnects reduce fuel flow
and your engine can cut out at high speeds. Your
fuel tanks needs to vent - make sure your vent is all
the way open when running your engine. Water in
the fuel system will cause poor running condition.
2
2
1
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
BPS Mufflers
Add style and performance to your machine.
Backwater Performance Systems will offer three
great mufflers for 2011. All three mufflers have
three things in common – quality stainless
construction, superior design, and in one squeeze –
you will be hooked.
Twin BPS
Made exclusively for the Mud Buddy HD
models, these twin mufflers double your fun.
They are a little louder than the twin mufflers.
The tig hand quality welding and style is
unmatched. The twins are easy to install and
come compete with all mounting hardware.
New “Q” Muffler
Customers are hard to please, and when it comes to
mufflers they are even tougher. They want a muffler
that is quiet yet offer more power through the power
band. New for 2011 is the new BPS Quiet muffler
also known as the “Q”. This stainless high quality
muffler delivers exceptional bolt on performance for
you large block Vanguard and 27 Kohler motors.
Single Crossover
This performance exhaust is designed for
maximum horsepower. The Single Crossover
has wrap around contoured pipes that help tune
your exhaust. The Single Crossover comes with
a silencer insert that can be removed when you
need a little extra boost.
Any Muffler $419 limited time offer.
Single Mikuni Carb Kit
The single most powerful bolt on power package.
No doubt, if you want to
bolt on a significant
improvement to your mud
motor’s hole shots, mid
and top end performance,
you will love the BPS
Mikuni 42mm carb kit.
The kit contains everything
you need to quickly convert
your motor to a lean, mean
3
smooth running machine.
Every part of this kit is high
quality, to include a custom
cast intake manifold,
performance air filter,
governor lock, throttle cable,
intake flange, and mounting
hardware. Step by step photo
instruction are included.
From $659
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Regional Roundup - Wisconsin
Larry Dobbe (LarryD)
I have taken my rigs on trips to the Dakotas and
I moved to the LaCrosse WI area in 2000 and built a
down to the marshes in Illinois. Places that I
home right off the Mississippi River. When duck
would never have even considered before this
season opened I quickly ran out and bought a flat
quest began.
bottom boat with a 40 horse Evinrude. I soon
learned that I had a skill for running into sand bars
and stumps more often than not. In the meantime
there were these guys with lawn mower engine
contraptions that could motor through skinny water,
mud and weeds like there was no tomorrow and I
was hooked. A friend from work had a 14-foot boat
with a 16 horse long tail, after 1 trip I had to have
the biggest model made at the time, a 29 Kawasaki
longtail and thus began my own mud motor
extravaganza. I would go for hours scouting and
learning my way around Pools 7, 8 and 9 of the
Upper Mississippi Fish and Wildlife Refuge
bordered by WI, MN and Iowa.
I have seen some of the most beautiful and serene
backwater areas that a person cannot even
imagine in the Midwest. The curiosity of what
was around the next bend. My desire to explore
grew more and more. I needed to carry extra fuel
for my excursions as my trips got longer and
longer. It has not been unusual for some stranger
to show up at my house asking me to help with a
problem on his rig. I cannot even begin to think
what my neighbors must think of me. My family
puts up with me using the mud motor to pull the
kids tubing and skiing instead of the Lund we
leave at grandma and grandpas.
The very next year Mud Buddy came out with their
first Hyperdrive and I had to have one, so I got the
biggest model made - a 31 Briggs. I was in heaven
and the ease of operation and greater operating
speed opened new areas to me until a 35 hp model
was released. I was hooked on the need for speed
and power began. My addiction was filled by doing
demonstrations, surfing the Internet for information
on bigger and better models and helping a local
dealer. Before I knew it I had three different 45’s and
serial number three 6000. I have owned an Excel, a
Geaux and a Gator Trax boats including a Gator
My two girls are hooked on hunting and fishing
the river bottoms. Our bond is cemented during
outdoor activities.
Hyde. During the course of doing the
demonstrations and shows I met a lot of likeminded mud motor enthusiasts and have seen many
There is no doubt that some of the people I have
met will be life long friends. And to think, it all
started out with my boat bumping off stumps and
getting hung up on sandbars in the dark while I
asked the Lord for guidance and patience.
new areas of WI like Horicon Marsh and the
backwaters surrounding the Mead Wildlife area. I
have taken my rigs on trips to the Dakotas and
4
2
1
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Innovation you have come to enjoy.
coarse mud. Longtails then got a marine powder
coat frame, a uniframe one- piece engine and frame
mount, a lighter frame using chrome moly tubing
and a host of innovations that would make the
longtail easier to run and a drive. In all, these new
machines lasted longer, drove easier and were much
more fun to own.
By Glenn Foreman
When we built our first longtail mud motor in my
garage in 1994, we had one thing in mind – create a
motor that does what we want to do. Meaning, we
have choices, we had good jobs, we worked our tails
off 40 hours a week and our biggest vice was
running the backwaters hunting waterfowl and we
deserved a better motor. We were passionate about
our sport and our boats and motors. We could have
bought a longtail from our local dealer, but that
didn’t satisfy the creative urges we hunters get in
mid summer that drives us to build a better blind,
find the boat that does it all and figure out how we
can build a better mud motor.
Today, the Mud Buddy is evolving and running
faster than a hummingbird in mating season.
And I won’t even try to claim we dream all these
things up in a duck blind. Our customers are savvy
and with their help, demand for quality, need for
power, speed, ease of handling and durability, we as
a team, have created innovative mud motors that
cause soon-to-be customers lost sleep in
anticipation.
On our short list was that darn long tailshaft that
hung off the back of our boat. How did the designer
sleep knowing the longest part of the motor was
hanging into traffic, in harms way. On our
mind, and chances were, we would get
rear-ended and ruin a week or two of the
hunt. Plus, warming an engine was
dangerous and trailering turned into a western
rodeo. So we changed the mount and created the
first longtail that swung into the boat for
trailering. That simple. The first of a
long list of firsts.
You have to admit innovations like
handle end controls with a seriously
powerful Mercury trim, stainless
performance exhaust, Mikuni carbs
that shoot your boat on step, the Big
Blade, and sealed waterproof cast
aluminum belt outdrives help us
make the transition from Friday rush
hour to Saturday blue skies more fun.
Our greatest achievement today is that
our loyal customers have joined us at
our forum and in the field taking the reins
helping us think from our garages into the future.
Later we would develop the first
bearing drive and a seal system
that would last even when run in
5
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Boat and Trailer Service Tips
Give your tool kit a once over and wipe down tools you
Deadbird8 (Gary Kutac)
keep in the boat to keep them from rusting. Tighten
Summer is a great time to get out and service your
down the screws on your seat bases. Clean leaves and
boat. Whether pulling it out of storage or
debris from your bilge area and ensure your bilge intake
transforming it from duck hunting to fishing
is clear. I was told once that a bilge is like a parachute-
platform spend a little time to care for your
if its not there when you need it, you may never need it
investment.
again. Check that your drain plug is in good shape and
put a spare in your boat for emergency.
Safety Equipment:
Trailer Maintenance:
Inspect your fire extinguisher, personal floatation
devices, and other required safety equipment to
Finally go over the trailer. It’s a good time to grease the
ensure its in working order. If you have children in
hubs and or repack the bearings. Inspect the tire
the boat, be sure to check the fit of their PFDs as
condition and inflation including your spare. Check
they grow from season to season.
your winch strap and replace if its fraying, the same
with your transom straps. Make sure your safety chains
Boat Electrical:
are in good shape. Take a wrench to all the bolts and
Test all of your lights, switches, and electrical
clamps on your trailer and ensure everything is tight.
connections. Clean your battery terminals, check
Inspect and replace any burnt lights or cracked lenses
your fuses, replace any burnt out running or bow
and corroded electrical connections. Spray a little
lights (pack a couple of spare fuses and bulbs in your
WD40 in the hitch mechanism to make it easier to
boat), Clean any corrosion from connections and add
mount on the trailer ball.
a little anti-corrosive grease or spray.
A few simple steps to protect your safety and
investment, be careful out there and wear your kill
switch lanyard.
Clean and Replace:
Go through the stored gear you have in your boxes
and remove anything that’s not functioning or
needed.
6
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Boat Wiring Tips
Dow Corning® 4 Electrical Insulating Compound
– Find a local source and get a tube or two.
By Don Berry, Ph.D. (Gun Doc)
(http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/DistributorFinder/Default
.aspx?prod_id=01903128&prod_ids=PROD&country=USA&language
=E)
Glenn asked me for half a page. I can’t tell you
much in half a page. I gave this some thought,
but I didn’t plan it for weeks, so please don’t
consider this to be “all you need to know.”
(or Google “Dow #4”). This stuff keeps the
environment away from joints and connections. It
does not cure like “RTV”, but is like thick grease
that gets all into the wire and around the
connection. It is silicone based, so it lasts, but it
never hardens. See “Syringes and needles” below
under “TOOLS.” The syringe saves you a lot of
Dow 4 and puts it where you want it. This stuff
goes on every solder joint, under every piece of heat
shrink (unless it is the expensive heat shrink that
already has “glue” inside it), and inside every
connector. Slide the needle in along the side of each
wire that goes into the “back” of factory connectors
(such as the ones on the B&S engines) to inject Dow
4 into the backs of the connectors. Most of the wires
in factory wire harnesses are not marine wire, so the
Dow 4 really helps here. Try to put some in the
“front” of the connectors, where the terminals slide
together, as well. Put some in you nose, ears, and
under your fingernails (j/k on that last part.)
Rule #1 - I spend time in salt water. I have a
saying about boat wiring, “You can do it right, or
you can do it again . . . and again . . . and” Not
only that, but the best place to have wiring
troubles on your rig is when it is in the garage.
Maybe you are born lucky, but this seldom
happens to me. If wiring messes up on you at
the wrong time, much worse can happen. Think
sunk boat.
Anderson connectors – Anderson connectors,
sometime called “fork lift connectors”, are
wonderful (Google them, and shop around for
price!) They are the best ever to quick connect a
trolling motor, MUCH better than conventional
trolling motor connectors. I use them many other
places as well, anywhere I need a high amperage
quick disconnect, like the big front spotlights when
they had high wattage incandescent bulbs. These
connectors are made of polycarbonate, stainless
steel, and silver plated copper, all good materials for
a marine environment. This is hard to explain, but
there are no male and female halves, yet they are
impossible to hook up backwards. When you have
one in front of you this will make sense.
MATERIALS (and how to use some of them)
Wire – If you are doing some new wiring, use
“marine” or “salt water” wire. It is tinned
copper and withstands harsh environments much
better. (When you strip a piece of old “regular”
wire and the copper is all black, then you will
understand.) Unless money is no object, try to
find a source other than West Marine. Boater’s
World may be a bit better, but not much. You
can probably get by with two (three at most) sizes
other than the “big cable” you need for battery,
trolling motor, winch, etc. me.
They “self clean”, meaning they wipe the contacts
as the connections are made and broken, and they
connect with a satisfying “snap.” They come in
colors, and the colors will not connect to each other.
This prevents you from connecting a 12v device to a
24v source and vice/versa. Cont. next page.
7
2
1
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Boat Wiring Tips - Don Berry
heat shrink spade type disconnects. I use the ones
that have a cover over both the male and female
part. Thus, the covers overlap as the connection is
made. I use these when I think I may have to undo
the connection more often than when I use the
bullet connectors. You cannot use bullet connectors
on wire larger than #14, so for big wire I use these
connectors. You can sometimes use these
connectors where the wire changes sizes. For
example, I run BIG bilge pumps, a 1500 and a 2000.
The wire to these is #10, because there is no reason
to run a big pump then starve it for power. But the
wire on the pump is much smaller than #10. So, a
#12-10 yellow colored connector will mate up fine
with #16-14 blue colored connector. (Check this for
the ones you use before taking this tip as “always
true.”) Another place I use these connectors is to
connect to switches that have spade terminals.
The 50-amp size is about the size of a Zippo lighter,
and can use up to #6 wire. I have never used
anything other than this size. You connect the wire
to the “contacts” and then snap the contacts into the
body of the connector.
Be sure to buy the right contacts for the wire size
(#6 or #10 for the 50 amp connectors.) A good
supply source will sell you extra contacts, and I
suggest you get a few for when you mess one up. In
other words, messing up a contact doesn’t ruin the
whole connector.
Connectors and terminals – Use terminal ends!
Twisting bare wire around a screw won’t do! (see
Rule #1.) If you are forced to do this at least form a
loop or hook and make it solid with solder. For ring
terminals, I use bare connectors or take the
insulating sleeve off. A bare connector soldered,
treated with Dow 4, and the connection covered in
heat shrink is as good if not better connection, is
trim, and is MUCH cheaper than the expensive
crimp and heat shrink ring terminal. I do use those
expensive terminals and connectors, but only where
I have to. I seldom “hard wire” anything in (see
“Plan to replace devices” under “PHILOSOPHY”
below.) For connections I may need to break, but
not often, if the wire is small enough I often use
what are called “bullet” connectors, but I strip off
the plastic covers. Solder the wires to the
connectors, put the connector together, then use
Dow 4 and heat shrink tubing on the connection.
This is a connection you can trust but it is
reasonably easy to replace the device assuming you
can get to the connection in situ to heat new shrink
tubing. Getting the plastic off the female bullet
connectors can be tricky. I file the insulation from
the side until the metal part you crimp is exposed,
then the part you want comes out easily.
PHILOSOPHY
Craftsmanship - Every joint I make gets three
things: 1) It is soldered, 2) coated in Dow 4, and 3)
covered in heat shrink tubing. Terminal ends such
as “rings” or “eyes” get the same treatment where
the wire connects. You might get by with Dow 4
and crimping the “regular” insulated connectors, but
see Rule #1. The only exception is the expensive
crimp on terminals or connectors with heat shrink
tubing. You cannot solder these. Cont. next page.
This seems a pain, but doesn’t take long once you
are practiced, and it is MUCH cheaper than the
expensive crimp and heat shrink connectors. (I have
never been able to find “bare” bullet connectors.)
Now, I sometimes do use the expensive crimp and
8
2
1
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Boat Wiring Tips - Don Berry
TOOLS
Nail clippers – The ends of wire ties cut with
diagonals are sharp. Use common nail clippers, big
ones, to cut the ends off flush and as slick as
expensive tools.
Ground path - DO NOT use your hull for ground!
This can cause all sorts of issues, the worst being
that you create a galvanic corrosion situation.
Remember that the ground wire must carry as much
current as the hot wire, so it needs to be just as big.
Syringes and needles – Farm supply stores (Tractor
Supply is a good one for me) will sell you syringes
and needles without looking at you like you are a
druggie. For most things, like Dow 4, you need a
short big bore needle (1” 16g.) They are SHARP!,
so file off the point but leave some of the angle cut
that made the point. This helps you slide the needle
in where you need to. If you don’t need to “inject”
the material, you can use a syringe with no needle to
make a nice easy to use dispenser. (I keep Dow 4 in
both kinds, without a needle to just smear it on a
connection, and with a needle to inject into
connectors.)
Plan to replace devices – I like to avoid “hard
wiring” in lights, bilge pumps, or any other device
because I believe good wiring will outlast most
devices. So, I put in connectors from the beginning
assuming it will save me time and trouble in the
long run when I need to repair or replace the device.
(See “Connectors and terminals” above.)
Crimpers – When you do crimp, don’t use pliers!
The crimper/stripper/screw cutter, “all in one”
electrical tools are cheap. Get a couple of different
styles. Some where the crimpers are on the ends of
the jaws, as opposed to back behind the hinge, are
nice.
Soldering gun – Get a good pistol style (Weller is
good.) For big wire, like lugs on #6 and larger, you
need a big high wattage gun, so you really need two.
(I once had a big Sears Craftsman gun. One time
when I was really pushing it, soldering a big
connection, the entire end that held the tip fell off.
Why? Because the damn end was SOLDERED to
the coil! I’m a big fan of Craftsman tools, but that
one wasn’t the reason!)
I hope this helps some of you. I didn’t get into
running wires and keeping things neat. But neat,
clean wiring not only looks good, it is much easier
to diagnose. Following are some pictures of my
small “console” that is on the bench seat in front of
where I sit to drive, and what it looks like when the
console is hinged up.
Use enough fuses – This is really a luxury, but I like
a fuse per device, meaning one fuse for the running
lights, one for the GPS, one for the depth finder, one
for EACH bilge pump (you should have TWO), etc.
This makes finding any problems easier. It also
means a device that blows a fuse won’t disable other
devices. NEVER put both bilge pumps together on
the same fuse! That is plain stupid.
9
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
How to choose the right mud motor for your boat.
Clint Hovey – Mud Buddy National Sales Manager
A few simple questions and answers are the key in determining the proper mud motor for your
boating needs.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
What size is your boat? Bottom width, length, hull thickness, hull design and transom
height?
What does the Coast Guard placard in your boat list as Max HP?
How far do you run on the water?
How much of a load do you have? People and gear?
What type of water are you running?
What is the elevation where you will be running the boat?
Do you have any physical limitations?
Call me with the answers to these questions and I can quickly recommend the best motor for your
particular boat and situation. If you don’t have a dealer nearby, I will be happy to help you.
801.352.8011
10
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
11
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Off season scouting – what to look for.
By Rick McCurley – R&B Outdoors.
Secluded waters can usually been seen as well in
the timber. Make sure though not to cross private
property or state owned land unless permission is
granted or a state permit is offered and available.
Contact the county clerks office for plat maps to
gain info for private landowners. At times a
phone call can lead to a meeting which could then
lead to access to some fine hunting on their
property.
Off-season scouting is just as important as scouting
during the season. Obviously you won’t be looking
for birds as hopefully they are back on the breeding
grounds cranking out a record fall flight. However,
there are several other indicators you can find when
looking for your next “honey hole”.
First, and foremost, FOOD! This, by far, should be
tops on your list of what to look for. When scouting
by water, you want to look for aquatic vegetation that
ducks love to grub on. However, you must keep in
mind that certain ducks prefer certain foods. For
instance, you motor up into an area that is loaded
with hydrilla, duck potato and widgeon grass then
you can bet that when the season rolls around it will
be frequented by gadwall, widgeon, teal and pintail.
You then motor over to another area that is loaded
up with smartweed and you will most likely find that
all puddler ducks want in on this table fare. Go
weaving thru some flooded green timber and see
acorns/pecans dropping into the water and you can
bet the farm that mallards and wood ducks are gonna
find it. On the rivers, ducks prefer freshwater
shrimp/invertebrates/snails to dine on.
Finally, pay close attention to water levels while
out scouting and as the season approaches.
Record levels the day(s) you scout and make notes
of the depth and vegetation line. There are a
plethora of Internet websites that have lake, river
or tidal conditions on a real-time basis. However,
keep in mind that what may not have had much
water in it in Sept may be full come Oct. And vice
versa.
Follow these simple guidelines and I guarantee
you that you will find and kill more birds. Always
keep records of your daily hunts as well noting
water depth, vegetation, weather, etc… Good luck
and good scouting to ya!
Looking for food should not just be done by water
though. Drive the backroads around the waters you
are looking to hunt and check for crop growth in the
area. Speak with local farmers or the guys at the local
feed store to glean info as to what is growing that
season and where. Remember, mallards and pintails
love to feed in dry fields and loaf later on the water of
nearby secluded areas.
As for deciding which area to start in, satellite
imagery on the Internet is your friend. Let your
mouse do the clicking before you start out. Many
times back roads leading close to backwaters can be
seen as well as hidden boat ramps to launch your
craft from.
12
Rick & Bart – April 2005
MUD BUDDY NEWS
SUMMER 2011
Upcoming Events
Washington's second annual mud motor festival/roundup and poker run.
Potholes Reservoir in Washington June 17, 18 and 19th
6th Annual Bama Mud Buddy Roundup.
Stevenson, Alabama - August 12, 13 and 14th,
see forum for details
13