gorgeous skin forever

E
^
MEN
RALLY
THINK
^BOUT
1ERHOOD
EXCLUSIVE
GAGA
MORE
OUTRAGEOUS
THAN EVER?
YOU
WON'T
BELIEVE
THIS
STORY
GORGEOUS
SKIN
FOREVER
21 AGE-REVERSING
BREAKTHROUGHS
TO CONQUER
ANY PROBLEM
EXPRESS YOURSELF! IT'S THE
PERSONAL
STYLE ISSUE
450+
FALL'S BEST
JEANS,
BOOTS,
/BAGS
EASY SEXY
MAKEUP
3-STEP
r GUIDES TO:
SMOKY CAT EYE
FLAWLESS RED LIP
BANISH
UNDEREYE CIRCLES
REBEL WILSON
COMEDY'S NEW STAR
OCTC
ER 2013
$4.99
.E.COM
2794
Armani Prive,
fall 2013 couture
With these 21 breakthroughs to stop the
clock from head to toe, not even your
dermatologist will know your real age.
By Katherine Kluznik Rentmeester
HAIR
1. COLOR THEORY
"If a follicle can be encouraged to produce a thicker hair,
often pigment will also ramp
up," says Alan J. Bauman,
MD, of an unexpected—but
welcome—side effect of stimulating hair growth. "Using
minoxidil can make more
pigment deep in the hair fiber.
It's not going to reverse completely gray hair, but hair can
get thicker and darker."
2. METALHEAD
If bad-hair days are getting
more frequent, your home's
copper pipes might be to
blame. In a P&G study led
by Jennifer Marsh, PhD, researchers sampled hair from
450 women in nine countries
and found varying levels of
the heavy metal, which can
rated from a sample of the
patient's blood, then mixed
with stem cells. After the concoction is injected just below
the surface of the scalp at the
depth of the follicles, doctors
use a spiked roller to induce
microtrauma, which activates
react with hair-color chemi- the platelets. "The trauma crecals and UV rays to speed the ated in the scalp 'tells' the PRP
breakdown of protein struc- where to do its job," Bauman
ture, leading to visibly dam- says. While results vary, he
aged strands. "Over time the finds them promising: "The
hair will be less resistant to higher the amount of thin,
other insults, like brushing weak hair in a given area, typiand flatironing," Marsh says. cally the greater the response."
P&G scientists are exploring 4. A CASE FOR BACKPACKS
how to use chelants in dyes A few habit adjustments can
and shampoos to bind to the keep hair from appearing
copper and wash future bad- older. "Any repetitive strain to
hair days down the drain.
the hair can cause breakage,
3. VAMPIRE HAIR GROWTH
which can lead it to look thinTrichologists are taking the ner overall," says Elisabeth
vampire face-lift to scalps with Leary, stylist at Brooklyn salon
the hope of stimulating hair Woodley & Bunny, who sugregrowth. "The great thing gests being mindful about how
about PRP [Platelet Rich you swing your handbag over
Plasma] is that it's nonchemi- your shoulder (don't let it sit on
cal and noninvasive," says long hair) and choosing bobby
Bauman. In PRP treatments, pins rather than elastic bands
platelets and plasma are sepa- when creating an updo.
312 BEAUTY Anti-Aging
s
Clock-wise from top: COLOR WOW
Root Cover Up hides gray and makes
hair appear fuller; PHYLIA DE M. ReConnect Leave-In Treatment stimulates
with tannic acid; KEVIN.MURPHY
Young.Again.Masque moisturizes with
amino acids; NEXXUS Youth Renewal
Rejuvenating Dry Shampoo refreshes
and conditions; K&RASTASE Initialise
serum and PANTENE AgeDefy Masque
treat the scalp iaith actives from
traditional skin care.
Could Saturday's slice of pizza make Monday a bad hair
day? Trichologist David H. Kingsley shares the secret to
healthy, happy hair at ELLE.com/hairdoctor.
to the skin," says Macrene
Alexiades-Armenakas, MD,
PhD, who has seen a sizable
reduction of wrinkling and
creping within two weeks of
a single session with the fractional radio-frequency device
eTwo. The painless treatment
requires no numbing, and the
only side effect is five days of
pinkness that can be covered
with makeup. Says Alexiades: "It makes the skin look
younger, as opposed to just
getting rid of lines. It's working beyond that."
r
'
VERSO
SUPER EYE SERUM
30 ML 1.01FL.OZ
Jean Paul G
fall 2013 coutH
EYES AND MOUTH
5. POUT SHOT
Ducks probably aren't the
intended spirit animals of
women seeking more youthful lips, yet the excessive use of
fillers has invited the comparison. Enter Belotero Balance,
which NYC-based dermatologist Francesca Fusco, MD,
calls "a gift" for lines around
the mouth because it can be
injected without the risk of
unintended effects: "It virtually never lumps or bumps.
It stays exactly where you put
it," she says. Another ideal
spot for the new, low-viscosity
hyaluronic acid filler? The
folds at the sides of the mouth,
which when overinflated
create what's referred to as
"monkey mouth." "Now you
can fill there without getting a
muzzle," Fusco says.
6. EXFOLIATION NATION
"Most people are scared
of having peels around the
eyes," says dermatologist
Erin Gilbert, MD, PhD, who
credits the gel formula of the
Glytone by Enerpeel EL with
making it one of the only inoffice peels that can safely be
used in the region (including
on eyelids). In three to five
sessions, the trichloroacetic
and lactic acid treatment results in a laser-rivaling reduction of fine lines and brown
spots, without any downtime.
"Patients I've previously Fraxeled have said that they felt
like the peel result was just as
good," Gilbert says.
314 BEAUTY Anti-Aging
7. SPOT TREATMENT
Currently FDA approved to
encourage collagen growth
in nasolabial folds, laViv—a
plumping procedure in which
the patient's own fibroblasts
are harvested and reinjected
into the skin—has surprised
Fredric Brandt, MD, with
other potential reparative
powers. Brandt has found that
in addition to the expected
boost in volume, "pigmentation is improved, which I don't
understand, but it's great."
8. BEYOND BOTOX
"If you have Botox too frequently, sometimes crow'sfeet become very resistant.
The muscle bundles break
up into tiny individual fibers,
so you get a parchment look
From top: VERSO Super Eye Serum
tightens with retinal; BLISS Firm,
Baby, Firm Total Eye System treats
upper and lower lids with two
formulas; SISLEY Supremya Yeux
serum de-sags with caffeine; LA
PRAIRIE Perfection A Porter plumps
lips and lids with hyaluronic
spheres; GLAMGLOW Brightmud Eye
Treatment de-puffs in three minutes;
PERRICONEMD Blue Plasma Orbital
peel gently resurfaces the entire
eye area.
Keep dark circles away for good by boosting your cardio and sipping green
tea. Eor more dermatologist tips, log on to ELLE.com/darkcircles.
COMPLEXION
9. SHRINK RAP
"Pore size tends to increase
with age, but if you keep the
pores from dilating on a regular basis, skin texture looks
better," says Gilbert, who in-,
jects low concentrations of Botox into the T-zone to reduce
pore appearance by suppressing sebum production and
blood-vessel expansion. For
those put off by the prospect
of needles, there's hope on the
horizon: "The new topical botulinum toxins being studied
seem to have similar effects on
skin texture," Gilbert says.
10. PLUMP UP THE VOLUME
A new midface volumizer
that's being likened to "an
injectable implant" is poised
to revolutionize the way doctors scaffold sagging cheeks,
says dermatologist Joshua
Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at
Mount Sinai Medical Center,
who is impressed with the
plumping potential of Juvederm Voluma, the first hyaluronic acid slated to receive
FDA approval for that region.
The filler's viscous consistency
makes it ideal for propping up
atrophying fat pads via injections just above the cheekbone, which can restore shape
for 18 months. Unlike Sculptra, one of the most widely
used long-lasting fillers, Zeichner says an antidotal syringe
of hyaluronidase can reverse
Voluma's effects: "Since you
can erase it, the face can be
touched up if there are slight
asymmetries."
11. TEAM PLAYERS
Lasers and ultrasound machines are supercharging antioxidants in the derm's office
as well as at home. The effects of the gentle new Clear
+ Brilliant Permea fractionated laser are amplified with
topical SkinCeuticals CE
Ferulic serum, which, says
Anne Chapas, MD, medical director of Union Square
Laser Dermatology in New
York City, makes it ideal for
treating conditions such as
melasma. "The laser makes
your skin more permeable to
topical skin care, so when an
antioxidant is applied immediately after the treatment,
that aids the removal of
pigmentation and helps skin
recover." Similarly, at-home
device JeNu bumps up the
power of the brand's proprietary topicals for eyes and lips
by using ultrasound waves to
propel 12 times more ingredients into skin than what
penetrates through standard
slathering. "It smooths and
tightens," Fusco says, "and
diminishes the appearance of
lines and wrinkles."
12. HIDDEN LIFT
The new hot spot for fillers?
The temples. According to
Brandt, restoring natural
volume close to the hairline
"causes a lifting of the brows
and forehead." Zeichner also
injects just in front of the earlobe. "As you look at a youthful face, it reflects light in
certain places," he explains.
"Wrinkling in that area interrupts the unbroken arc of
light we would expect to see
in a young face."
From top: Botanical powerhouse CLE
DE PEAUBEAUTELe Serum jump-starts
cellular energy icj'f/i yeast extracts;
LANCC)ME Dream Tone Ultimate Dark
Spot Corrector brightens ioif/1 a safe
hydroquinone derivative; GLYTERRA
Night Formula inhibits collagendestroying glycation; JENU ultrasound
<&and drives actives into skin; AVON
Skinvindble Deep Recovery Cream
contains a blend of antioxidants to
protect against complexion aggressors,
including UVrays and pollution.
"Actors get older, actresses get old. Ain't that the truth. But life doesn't stop...You just have to make adjustments."—Ava Gardner,
from the new autobiography Ava Gardner: The Secret Conversations (Simon & Schuster)
315
NECK
13. HEADS UP
"I think we're going to start
seeing a lot more lined
necks," predicts Fusco. "Everybody's texting—and every
time you put your chin down,
you're creating a crease."
The solution is as low tech as
they come: Lift your iPhone,
Kindle, or other device to eye
level rather than dropping
your head to look at it.
14. HOME IMPROVEMENT
A new peel is tackling the
tough-to-address pigmentation that can pepper decollete. "It's categorized as a
medium-depth peel, but the
patient doesn't feel anything.
No tingling. Nothing," says
Fusco of the Dermaceutic
Spot Treatment & Homecare
System. A two-minute inoffice allover peel of glycolic,
lactic, and salicylic acids is
followed by a spot application
of mandelic and salicylic acids,
retinol, and idebenone that
is left on the skin for eight
hours, then washed off at
home. Six days later, there's
some flaking, "but no redness,
no blistering, no swelling."
15. TIGHT FIT
Alexiades is "blown away" a new delivery system. "It's
by the results of Cutera's the greatest thing ever,"
new TruSculpt handpiece Brandt says of the pneumatic
for tackling jowls, noting a single-needle device, which
1- to 2-millimeter reduction can precisely deliver up to
in one to two sessions. The 500 tiny liquid doses a minradio-frequency technology ute just below skin's surface.
works by heating targeted "You can do hundreds of intissues to at least 45 degrees jections without one bruise
Celsius to damage fat cells, and no pain." And although
which then are naturally the cocktail of vitamins and
eliminated by the body over Pharmaceuticals used in mea four-week period. Similar sotherapy, a procedure popuresults were previously only lar in Europe, is unlikely to
possible with liposuction, receive FDA approval anysays Chapas, but the instru- time soon, Brandt is lookment offers an added bonus: ing forward to seeing other
"If you remove fat alone, ways the gun could be used
your skin will get loose and to improve overall skin texbaggy. The laser also gives ture, including to distribute
energy to the top of the skin, appropriate fillers over the
which can cause tightening surface of the chest, neck,
and face. This, he says, would
of the skin."
encourage "dewier, more hy16. TOP GUN
A mini machine gun for drated, plump-looking skin—
shots, the U225 mesotherapy and would probably help with
injector offers dermatologists fine lines and wrinkles."
316 BEAUTY Anti-Aging
From left: A best-seller in Japan, HADA LABO Anti-aging Hydratorfloods skin with
hyaluronic acid; after 28 days on TATA HARPER Contouring Scrum, 80 percent of
subjects Kais} a reduction in jowls; clinical studies proved SKINCEUTICALS Pigment
Corrector as effective as Rx hydroquinone and tretinoin at reducing pigmentation; the
plant extracts in CHANEL Le Lift Creme treat aging skin on a molecular level.
On the set of 1939's Destry Rides Again, 38-year-old Marlene Dietrich gave
herself a temporary neck-lift with tape.
of the best, easiest, and safest means of nonsurgically
reducing unwanted body
fat," says Manhattan-based
dermatologist Robert Anolik,
MD, of the technique that
targets stubborn pudge with
an hour-long deep-freeze session, which ruptures fat cells
that are then eliminated by
the body; full results become
evident three months posttreatment. Peredo streamlines the process by doubling
up machines to treat multiple
zones at the same time.
19. SMOOTH SOLUTION
A quarterly syringe of Botox
might be the answer to treating eczema and psoriasis—the
occurrence of which increase
with age—sans topical steroids' side effects, says Gilbert. In preliminary clinical
studies, she has found that
injections of botulinum toxin
may inhibit the effects of neuropeptides that are involved
in the skin's inflammatory
response, clearing outbreaks
in two weeks.
20. VEIN GLORIOUS
"Excel V is the biggest advance in vascular lasers in 25
years," says Alexiades of her
new noninvasive mainstay for
vanquishing spider and varicose veins. "Whereas prior
lasers took up five treatments
to eliminate veins, this device
has cut it down to one to two."
As Excel V's wavelengths are
absorbed by hemoglobin,
they heat unwanted blood
vessels to the point of elimination. "The versatility and efficacy of this device are beyond
description," says Alexiades,
who also uses it to blast broken capillaries on the face.
21. TAUT COUTURE
Face- and neck-tightening
treatment Ultherapy is heading off-label by moving south.
"Ultherapy tightens that
loose, crepey skin that develops on the elbows and knees,"
Chapas says. The device's
small head makes full-scale
body zapping impractical,
but Chapas has been seeing
good results with targeted application. As for Ultherapy's
most publicized drawback,
the ouch factor? "It's much
less painful, as body skin is
thicker and less sensitive than
that of the face." •
BODY
17. LIPO IN A SYRINGE
til results are achieved. "It
"What Botox did to face-lifts, works by selectively enhancthis is going to do to liposuc- ing the body's metabolism
tion," predicts Smithtown, of fat, and reducing the size
NY-based derm Marina of adipocytes," Peredo says.
Peredo, MD, of fat-melting The beauty of the procedure,
technology Lipo 202, which which can result in circumferis currently in FDA testing ential loss of 1 to 1.5 inches,
for shrinking abdominal is in its simplicity: "You don't
pouches. Using the same need equipment. It's going
chemical compound found to be just a syringe—and you
in Advair asthma inhalers, can get into areas that are
salmeterol xinafoate, doc- otherwise difficult to reach."
tors administer a series of 20 18. DR. FREEZE
small injections once a week "CoolSculpting has continfor one to three months un- ued to prove itself to be one
From left: The light-reflecting pigments in OSMOTICS Body Glo^ CC Cream brighten
instantly; SHISEIDO Future Solution LX Body Cream suppresses the production
of skin-aging protein Serpin B3; SOAP & GLORY Sit Tight Intense XS Serum's
roller-ball applicator stimulates lymphatic drainage; CLARINS Body Lift Cellulite
Control prevents future cellulite 'with skin-strengthening mint extracts; REST0RSEA
Retexurising Body Butter exfoliates with the same enzyme that helps baby fish hatt
from tlicir eggs.
Even in the era of the original maxidress—the toga—no one wanted varicose veins: Tn a
pioneering treatise, Hippocrates discusses how to minimize veins with a hot iron needle.
317