bmw r50 for restoration

Transcription

Allan‟s BMW R50/2 Restoration (Abridged)
BMW R50/2
RESTORATION PROJECT
Allan Bester
December 2013
Rev 1.1
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
1
BMW R50/2 RESTORATION PROJECT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
ACQUISITION ……………………………………………………………………………………………3
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ………………………………………………………………………………4
PUBLISHED SPECIFICATIONS FOR BMW R50/2 …………………………………………………5
SPECIFICATIONS FOR MY BMW R50/2 …………………………………………………………….7
RESTORATION LOG ……………………………………………………………………………………13
DEFECTS BEFORE …………………………………………………………………………………….109
IMPROVEMENTS & KNOWN DEFECTS (AFTER) ………………………………………………….110
PARTS FABRICATED …………………………………………………………………………………..111
PARTS PROCURED ……………………………………………………………………………………115
STAINLESS STEEL PARTS ……………………………………………………………………………120
TOOLS PROCURED ……………………………………………………………………………………122
NOTES …………………………………………………………………………………………………….123
LESSONS LEARNT ………………………………………………………………………………………127
LINKS ………………………………………………………………………………………………………128
REFERENCES ……………………………………………………………………………………………128
RECORD OF EXPENDITURE ………………………………………………………………………….130
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
2
ACQUISITION
ADVERT:
VMC‟s Kickstart newsletter August 2007:
“BMW R50. Complete, for restoration R10 000. Contact Jimmy D*****”
CONTACT:
Called Jimmy on Monday 1 October 2007 on his cellphone. Arranged to see
the bike on Wed 3 October around 16h00 with Ian Holmes.
DETAILS:
Bike was 60% assembled, balance in boxes. Jimmy assured me the bike is
COMPLETE. New set cables made up, new sparkplugs (NGK B7ES), ignition
key, speedo & gauges, tank knee pads, BMW roundels for tank, foot rests, side
stand, original (rusted) crash bars.
PAPERS:
None
MODEL/YEAR:
+- 1961 - 1969
SERIAL #:
Frame # = 622 372 (R60/2) 1961
Engine # = 648 460 (R50/2) 1969 (Casting date on heads = 1968)
DESCRIPTION &
SHORTCOMINGS:
Earle‟s forks, 6 volt, ex-Durban, tyres = Yokohama, Front rim = steel.
rear rim = alloy, colour = black, petrol tank has dents & filler taped closed, no
accident damage visible. Frame and tank painted (needs to be redone),
stainless steel header pipes made up (with nuts/collars).
Many parts
dismantled completely, surface rust, non-original rear tail light, number plate
light lens broken, spare barrels pitted with rust, seat needs to be reupholstered.
SPARES:
Seat, handle bars, c-spanner, 4 x loose barrels (unusable), 5 x pistons
(unusable), extra Bing carb, new headlight, extra tank knee pad
W/SHOP MANUAL: No, but BMW twins Restoration book (Motorbooks International) by Roland
Slabon included, no owners manual
PRICE:
On 9 October 2007 telephonically mutually agreed to R7000 all inclusive.
ACTIONS:
Internet transferred kR7 on Thursday 10 Oct, Receipt from Jimmy (full & final
settlement. Collected bike on Fri 12 October 2007
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
3
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This is to acknowledge the significant contributions of selected individuals and organisations in the
restoration of my BMW R50/2, of which I am justifiably proud.
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Ian Holmes, for persuading me to become a member of the Vintage Motorcycle Club (VMC) and
thereby gaining access to people with a wealth of knowledge and skill without which this
restoration would not have been possible. The origin of the restoration project was advertised in
the VMC “Kickstart” newsletter, and it was also Ian who accompanied me to see the bike at the
seller‟s premises and who inspired me to tackle this enjoyable task.
Jan Cornel, an absolute gentleman of great technical skill and experience who provided parts,
used and new, as well as much technical advice, assistance and access to some BMW special
tools, such as the jig used to ream the small-end bushes in the conrods in situ.
Mike Lester, for putting up with my numerous persistent phone calls, for his friendship and
inspiration, his knowledge and his outstanding spray painting and pinstriping skills. Also for
introducing me to Al Gibson, Charlie Hamer and Roly Tilman, of whom more later.
Roly Tilman, for his depth of knowledge, his inspiration and especially his generosity with used
parts for my restoration project. Truly a philanthropist of note!
Al Gibson, for his willingness to share his unsurpassed and irreplaceable technical knowledge of
the BMW marque, his decades of experience in engine preparation, and for his inspiration to “do
the job right”.
Charlie Hamer, for his awesome welding skills at a very reasonable price.
Rian Emerich, for his willingness to assist in my project with sand and bead blasting of numerous
rusty bits for no monetary reward, and for his inspiration and cheerful enthusiasm.
Zane Mannell, for his friendship, his sound advice, some special BMW tools from his deceased
father, unflagging inspiration, and my “sounding board” at all times.
Bill Speight, for providing restorers of 1950s and 1960s BMW motorcycles with access to locally
manufactured quality rubber parts at very reasonable prices.
Classic Motorcycle Club (CMC), for access to Bill Speight‟s rubber parts for BMW‟s, used BMW
parts, as well as copies of BMW workshop manuals and service bulletins (thanks, Bob Harpin).
Also for the introduction to people like Hennie van Zyl, Derek Marsden, and one of the friendliest
guys around, Pierre Cronje!
Jeff Talbot in Cape Town (referred by Roly Tilman) for very reasonably priced stainless steel
silencers for my restoration project.
Ivan Snell, a long-suffering friend, for his vast experience, technical knowledge and sound advice.
Suppliers such as African Electroplating, Sheffield Electroplating, JKM (fasteners and engineering
supplies), Classic Auto Trimmers (upholstery), Randburg Automotive Paints (paints), Uli‟s
Motorradladen (high quality substitute BMW parts), and many more.
The Internet, specifically the “Yahoo Slash2 Group” for an entire world of knowledge, experience
and advice on restoring Slash2 BMW motorcycles.
My long-suffering family, who had to put up with my absolute obsession with my mid-life crisis
project for more than two years of nights, weekends, holidays and any other time that I could
spare.
It is no exaggeration to state that this project would not have been completed in the time achieved
and of the quality attained without the contributions and support of the individuals and organisations
mentioned above, as well as those I have not acknowledged by name. My thanks and appreciation to
all.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
4
PUBLISHED SPECIFICATIONS FOR BMW R50/2
Engine
Internal Designation
252/2
Motor Type
Four-stroke, two cylinder, air-cooled flat twin
Bore x Stroke
68mm x 68mm (2.67” x 2.67”)
Displacement
493 cc
Max Power
26 hp at 5800 rpm (35 hp at 7650 rpm for R50S)
Compression Ratio
Valves
Carburation System
7.5 : 1 (with later pistons), 9.2 : 1 (with R50S pistons)
125–147psi (8–10 bar) sea-level = 106-125psi (7-8 bar) 1700m asl
OHV
2 x carburettor
Bing 1/24/45 - 46 or 1/24/131 - 132 or 1/24/149 - 150
Engine Lubricating System
Forced feed lubrication
Oil Pump
Gear pump
Power Transmission
Clutch
Single dry plate, diaphragm spring
Number of Gears
4
Shifting
Foot shifting
Gearbox Ratios
4.17 / 2.73 / 1.94 / 1.54
Rear Wheel Ratio
1 : 3.18
Bevel/Crownwheel
8 : 25 (after 1961)
Electrical System
Ignition System
Magneto ignition
Generator
Bosch LJ/CGE 960/6/1/1700 R5
Spark Plugs
Bosch W240 T2 (= long reach)
W260 T2 for R50S
NGK B7ES
NGK B8ES (colder) for R50S
gap = 0.6mm
Bosch W5CC
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
Bosch W4CC
5
Chassis/Frame
Designation
R245/1
Frame
Double loop steel tubular frame
Front wheel suspension
Long swing arm with suspension units and oil pressure shock
absorbers
Rear wheel suspension
Long swing arm with suspension units and oil pressure shock
absorbers
Wheel rims
Deep bed 2.15B x 18” (with sidecar, rear 2.75C x 18), 40 spokes
Tyres, Front
3.50” x 18”
Tyres, Rear
3.50” x 18” (with sidecar = 4” x 18”)
Brakes, Front
Drum brake 200mm / 7.87” diameter duplex full hub
Brakes, Rear
Drum brake 200mm / 7.87” diameter simplex full hub
Dimensions/Weights
Length x Width x Height
2125 x 660 x 980 mm (83.66” x 25.98” x 38.58”)
Wheel Base
1415 mm / 55.66” (with original sidecar 1450 mm / 57.08”)
Fuel Tank Capacity
17 litres / 3.73 gal / 4.49 gal US
Unladen Weight with Full
Tank
195 kg / 429 lb (320 kg / 704 lb with original sidecar)
Idle/Riding Noise
82/76 phon (from June 1967: 72 dB (A), 84 dB (A))
Load Rating
360 kg / 792 lb (with original sidecar, 600 kg / 1321 lb)
Fuel Consumption
Approx. 5.1 litres per 100 km / 55 mpg / 46 mpg US
Oil Consumption
Approx. 0.5 - 1 litre per 1,000 km
Top Speed
140 kph / 87 mph
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
6
SPECIFICATIONS FOR MY BMW R50/2
Frame Serial No:
622372, stamped on plate screwed to steering head, and stamped on
side of steering head, for R60/2. Other numbers stamped on frame =
BSI SIUS on RHS upright and 51.51.813.03 on LHS upright of rear
swing arm mounting points
Engine Serial No:
648460, stamped on RHS of engine casing above cylinder for R50/2.
Casting date for cylinder heads = 1968
Carburettors:
Bing 1/24/132 (R/H) and 1/24/131 (L/H), main jet #105, idle jet #35,
needle jet #1308, with “lever top” float chamber covers (after August
1967), jet needle = #46-255, clip position = 3 (from top), 7g floats
Fitted 120 main jets (see Service Info 257)
Wheels:
Before, Front = steel rim (not BMW) Rear = BMW OEM alloy rim
After, Front = BMW OEM alloy rim Rear = BMW OEM steel rim
Tyres:
Before, Front = Yokohama 3.00 x 18”, tube = Yokohama
Before, Rear = Yokohama 4.00 x 18”, tube = Bridgestone
After, Front = Metzeler ME22, 3.50” x 18”, new Viper tube
After, Rear = Metzeler ME22, 3.50” x 18”, new King Tube
Air Filter Element:
Purolator PM 1042
Wheel Bearings:
30204 taper roller (front & rear). Front FAG bearings replaced with
DYZV, one rear NSK bearing replaced with DYZV.
Front Hub seals:
Outer = TC 25 x 35 x 7 fitted, and felt seal inner was fitted (replaced
with TC 25 x 38 x 7 Nitrile oil seal). Use 25 x 38 x 6mm inner
Rear Hub oil seals:
Outer = TC 24 x 35 x 6 was fitted, & TC 25 x 38 x 7 inner fitted. Use
25 x 38 x 6mm inner. Turned new top hat spacer to fit new outer oil
seal = 25 x 35 x 7
Swing Arm oil seals:
TC 22 x 40 x 8 (fitted front & rear) (spec = 22 x 40 x 10)
Front Spring Length:
285mm
Swing Arm Bearings:
30203 taper roller (front & rear). Rear bearings replaced
Gear lever oil seal:
15 x 24 x 7 (used double lip type, Nitrile)
Gearbox input shaft seal:
30 x 40 x 7 (Viton)
Gearbox output seal:
36 x 54 x 7 (Nitrile)
Engine rear main seal:
52 x 72 x 10 (original was Kaco Silicon). Replaced with Viton.
Engine Oil:
SAE 40, sump capacity = 2 litres (fill only to bottom of threads)
Drive shaft Oil:
SAE 40, capacity = 120 cc
Bevel drive Oil:
SAE 90, capacity = 150 cc (fill only to bottom of threads)
Gearbox Oil:
SAE 40, capacity = 0,8 litre (fill only to bottom of threads)
Generator:
Bosch G7V.15A17
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
(None supplied with the bike)
7
Steering head bearings:
As purchased = 2 x SKF 355243 ball bearings, 23 balls each (one was
missing), surfaces rust pitted, OD = 51mm, ID = 34mm, balls 5.5mm.
Replaced with 51W/34W taper roller bearings from Ed Korn (USA)
Spark Plugs:
NGK B7ES = 19mm thread reach for LK heads, gap = 0,6mm
Cylinder Heads:
Improved “LK” heads fitted, with rotating valves (cast in 1968)
Points Gap Spec:
0.35mm – 0.4mm
Battery:
Original Spec = 6V 8Ah, B49-6 (LxWxH = 90mm x 82mm x 160mm)
Oil Drain/Fill Plugs:
M14 x 1,5, M10 x 1, gaskets = steel/asbestos (I fitted solid copper)
Tyre Pressures:
Front = 170 kPa
Engine mounting bolts:
M12 x 1.5 (Fine thread), 19mm AF
Valve diameter Specs:
Inlet = 34mm, Exhaust = 32mm, stems = 7mm nominal
Pushrod dimensions:
Length = 242mm
Valve Clearance Specs:
Inlet = 0,15mm (0.006”)
Actual = 0.2mm (inlet)
Clutch disk spring:
Reinforced version part number = 00 70 183 (red -)
Clutch Backing Plate:
Later type from /5 fitted with webs on bell housing ground away to
clear shallow Allen cap screws. This is the preferred type. Has
genuine BMW part number = 12320772
Clutch Plate:
F&S
Transmission shaft:
End play = 0.00 + 0,1mm (reduced from 1967)
Final drive ratio:
25 : 8 (as specified after 1961)
Final Drive studs:
M8 x 1 thread on final drive studs for swing arm mounting
Driveshaft bolts:
12-point, 10mm AF with spring washers
Brake shoes:
Front = riveted, Rear = bonded (Front & rear replaced with softer
bonded linings 4mm thick)
Camshaft Bearings:
2 x 6203 (was SKF), replaced
Generator Bearing:
1 x 6004 (was SKF), replaced
Cylinder base gaskets:
Aluminium = 0,5mm (Fitted new gaskets)
Magneto journal oil seal:
25 x 35 x 7 (Kaco) – replaced with Viton
Generator hub oil seal:
20 x 32 x 7 (Kaco) – replaced with Viton
Kickstart Oil Seal:
17 x 28 x 7 (Used double lip type, Nitrile)
Cylinder Bore Diameters:
1st oversize = 68.5mm nominal. Measured 68.51mm (68.52) at tops
of bores, and 68.53mm in middle of bores
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
Rear = 190 kPa
Diameter = 7mm
Exhaust = 0,2mm(0.008”)
0.25mm (exhaust) (Jan Cornel specs)
8
Pistons:
High compression = 68,42mm for R50S, 1st oversize, spec clearance
= 0,08mm, measured clearance = 0.1mm. Skirt diameter = 68.395mm
on both pistons
Rocker arm end play:
LHS = 0.2mm
Old Piston
Gaps:
Ring
Old
Ring
Clearance:
End
Groove
Spec = 0.01mm – 0.02mm
Top ring gap ½” below top of bore = 0.55mm LHS and 0.58mm RHS,
Top ring gap ½” above bottom of bore = 0.6mm LHS and 0.65mm RHS
2nd ring at top of bore = 0.8mm.
Spec = 0.25 – 0.4mm (new)
Measured 0.05mm top & middle grooves (Spec = 0.07 – 0.1mm)
Top ring gap 13mm below top of bore = 0.40mm LHS cylinder
New Piston Ring End
2nd ring gap 13mm below top of bore = 0.40mm LHS cylinder
Gaps:
Oil ring gap 13mm below top of bore = 0.45mm LHS cylinder
New
Piston
Dimensions:
Ring
Top ring width = 2.92mm – 2.95mm, 1.98mm – 1.984mm thick
2nd ring width = 3.02mm – 3.03mm, 1.984mm – 1.986mm thick
Oil ring width = 2.988mm – 2.99mm, 4.988mm – 4.99mm thick
Wrist/Gudgeon pins:
20,0mm diameter, no discernable wear, C20 wire snap rings
Crank Bearings:
2 x 6207 (old = NSK, replaced with new = NTN)
Flywheel lateral run out:
Spec = 0,1mm (0.004”) maximum
Actual = 0,2mm
RHS Exh Outer/In = 42.38/35.2mm, RHS Inlet Outer/In = 42.0/35.5mm
Old Valve Spring Length
LHS Exh Outer/In = 42.35/35.5mm, LHS Inlet Outer/In = 42.37/35.5mm
(Free):
Spec: Outer = 42.3mm
Inner = 37.5mm
New Valve Spring Length
Inner = 37.5mm
Outer = 43.5mm
(Free):
RHS Exh Out = 35.7mm
LHS Exh Out = 35.5mm
New Valve Spring Length RHS Inlet Out = 34.6mm
LHS Inlet Out = 34.8mm
(Installed)
Spec = 30.5mm for inner, and 34.0mm for outer springs
Could have fitted shims under springs (0.5mm inlet, 1.5mm exhaust)
LHS Exh = 6.926mm
LHS Inlet = 6.94mm
Old Valve Stems:
RHS Exh = 6.92mm
RHS Inlet = 6.93mm
Spec = 6.95mm – 6.935mm when new
New Valve Stems:
Exh = 6.935mm
Valve Stem Play in Guide
RHS Exh = 0.45/pi = 0.14mm
RHS Inlet = 0.15/pi = 0.05mm
LHS Exh = 0.5/pi = 0.16mm
LHS Inlet = 0.2/pi = 0.064mm
Spec = 0.04 – 0.07mm (or 0.050 – 0.085mm)
Old Valve Guide bores:
RHS exh = 7.20mm
RHS inlet = 7.07mm
LHS exh = 7.22mm
LHS inlet = 7.07mm
Spec = 7.005mm max when new (use 7mm K7 reamer)
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
9
Valve Guide Dimensions:
New guide OD = 13.05mm
ID = 6.96mm before reaming
Old guide OD = 13.05mm
New guide L = 43.0mm (8,5mm)
Old guide L = 50.0mm (15,9mm)
For next rebuild use 13,10mm OD valve guides
Interference fit spec = 0,03 – 0,05mm (heat head to 200 deg C)
Old Valve Seat Widths
Measured about 2mm for all valves before refurbishing
Spec = 1,5mm for inlet valves and 2.0mm for exhaust valves (or
1,5mm for R50S)
Eccentricity spec < 0,03mm
Timing Gear Set:
-2 (stamped on top of main engine casing)
Conrod Big-End Lateral RH = 0,15mm
Play:
Spec = 0,07 – 0,10mm
LH = 0,25mm
Crank
Main
Bearing Front = 35,0mm
Journal Diameter:
Spec = 35,0mm
Rear = 34,97mm
Used Ritelok RT20G retainer
Exhaust Headers:
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Supplied with fabricated s/steel headers & fabricated s/steel nuts
Also supplied with one original header and damaged nut
Fitted stainless steel headers from Powerflow (Durban)
OD = 35mm (spec)
Exhaust Silencers:
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Metac s/steel (supplied with the bike)
Purchased new s/steel silencers from Jeff Talbot (Cape Town)
Silent Blocs:
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4 x Front = OD = 22mm, ID = 10mm, L = 16mm (replaced)
2 x Rear = OD = 25mm, ID = 12mm, L = 20mm (replaced)
Speedometer:
VDO, W1.12, 0 – 120 mph
Clutch Push Rod:
195mm (appears to have been shortened)
Wiring Harness:
BMW Scheme #1
Oil Pump Gears:
End clearance = 0,11mm (driver), and < 0,05mm (driven)
Spec = 0,04mm max
Backlash = 0,2mm (spec = 0,05mm max)
Idle speed:
Spec = 600 – 800 rpm
Torque values:
Oil drain plugs
Cylinder heads
Gearbox cover nuts
Generator bolt
Magneto bolt
Spark plugs
Drive shaft coupling nut
Flywheel hex screw
Drive shaft drain/fill plugs
Axle spindle nuts
Clutch cap screws
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
Opening ODO = 90770 miles
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20 Nm
35 Nm in 3 stages
15 Nm
20 Nm
20 Nm
15 Nm
120 Nm
230 Nm
15 Nm
35 Nm
20 Nm
10
Headlamp:
6V 35W/35W Bilux
Parking light:
Pilot lamp 6V, 2W
Neutral indicator:
Pilot lamp 6V, 2W
Charging indicator:
Pilot lamp 6V, 2W
Speedo lamp:
Pilot lamp 6V, 1.2W
Tail & stop lamp:
Twin filament 6V 5/18W
Handlebar & risers:
Supplied handlebar = 26” x 7/8”, not Magura
Replacement handlebar = 25” x 22mm Φ, from Jan Cornel
Supplied risers are vertical for R68 (rare)
Used correct risers from Melville Price, re-chromed
Fuel:
LRP or Leaded fuel with additive
Gearbox
input
bearings:
Gearbox
lay
bearings:
Gearbox output
bearings:
shaft
shaft
shaft
Final drive bearings:
Base = BA20D
Front = 6204/C3
Rear = 6302/C3
Front = 3203 A /C3
Rear = 6203/C3
Front = 6303/C3
Rear = 6204/C3
Pinion front = 3304 A
Wheel drive side = 16013
Gearbox output flange
OD = 21mm
castellated nut:
M14 x 1.5
Throttle cables:
Outer = 910mm
Inner = A1.6, 1030mm
Clutch cable:
Outer = B3, 1060mm (1090)
Inner = A2, 1340mm (1365)
Front brake cable:
Outer = B3, 1095mm (925)
Inner = A2, 1300mm (1195)
Wheel spokes:
140mm x 3.5mm (M4) x 40 per wheel, Berg Union (4-leaf clover)
Spoke nipple:
5.5mm AF, Berg Union (4-leaf clover)
Top-hat wheel spacers
Outer= 25mm OD x 20mm ID x 14mm L, flange = 30mm OD x 1.5mm t
Inner= 25mm OD x 20mm ID x 10mm L, flange = 31mm OD x 1mm t
Axle nuts:
M14 x 1.5, 22mm AF (new s/steel nuts fabricated)
Brake drum diameter:
Front & rear (after skimming) = 201mm
Wheel offset:
Spec = 6.5mm +/- 0.2mm
Carb mixture adj screw:
M7 x 0.75 thread
Bowden cable adjusters:
M7 x 1 thread
Basic carb settings:
Carb float setting:
24 December 2013
(my clutch adjuster is now 5/16” BSW)
Needle position = 3rd hole from the top
Idle air screw = 2 turns out (clockwise = richer, anti-clock = leaner)
Idle speed screw = 1 turn in from just touching the slide
Set lever at 22mm from cover surface when resting on needle. Set tab
so that lever moves another 4mm when fully open
Rev 1.1
11
Front fork dimensions:
Front brake setting:
Front brake cam:
Distance between inner mounting faces for swing arm = 200mm
14mm – 16mm free play at the handlebar lever
Lever arms on the hub to be at 90 deg to cable when operated.
Rotate front brake adjuster anticlockwise to reduce free play (rotate
clockwise to increase play between leading brake shoe and drum)
Toolbox lock key:
LF 60121 (fitted new cupboard lock)
Mirror thread in LH Perch
M8 x 1.25 Left Hand Thread
Mech Advance springs:
11mm
Woodruff key - Gearbox
4 x 6.5mm
output shaft:
Woodruff key- cam shaft:
4 x 6.5mm
Woodruff key – flywheel:
5 x 6.5mm
Bevel Drive Oil Seals:
30 x 42 x 7 (Nitrile)
Wheelbase:
RHS = 1425mm
Spec = 1415mm
Gearbox
–
clearance:
overshift
LHS = 1405mm
1.0mm
Front crank spacer:
3.5mm thick
Rear crank spacer:
2.0mm thick
24 December 2013
65 x 85 x 10 (Nitrile) 28 x 47 x 7 (Nitrile)
Rev 1.1
12
RESTORATION LOG
12 October 2007
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Collected the bike from Jimmy D******* in Johan van Zyl‟s 6” trailer.
As offloaded at home:
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
13
13 & 14 October 2007
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10 Hours (Total -= 10 hours)
Replaced M10 x 1.5 cap screws on handlebar pillars with polished stainless steel cap screws
and stainless steel spring washers
Swapped rear suspension units (adjusting handles on wrong sides)
Wire-brushed rust from rear suspension components, especially lower portion.
Wire-brushed rust from M10 x 1.0 nuts and bolts on front suspension
Cleaned up filler plug in lathe for swing arm flange, and cleaned up internal thread with M10 x
1.0 tap
Replaced some M8 and M6 nuts and various flat washers with stainless steel
Cleaned M6 and M8 threads on tappet covers with die nuts
Wire-brushed rust from rear footbrake components
Replaced M10 x 1.5 cap screws with M10 x 1.5 high tensile bolts and nuts on centre stand –
need to complete repair work on centre stand (springs missing)
Fabricated stainless steel pivot screws for front brake lever (brake lever has mild steel bush
8mm ID), and for the clutch lever – fitted stainless steel spring washers and M6 nuts.
Fabricated bush 10,5mm OD x 8mm ID (EN1A Pb) for clutch lever, as well as Aluminium M6
threaded bush for clutch handlebar fitting
Placed carb bodies & parts in lacquer thinners (didn‟t make any difference a week later!)
Bought M6 and M8 chromed dome nuts
Bought GP primer aerosol (Dulux) and metallic silver aerosol (Dulux) and primed and painted
lower portions of rear suspension
Primed and painted top suspension mounting caps (rear) aerosol (Dulux) = Black Limo
Stripped front wheel hub – needs new seals (inner seal is felt, outer seal is Nitrile), and perhaps
new bearings. Preload to be set later. (See 9 Feb 2008)
18 - 22 October 2007
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8 Hours (Total = 18 hours)
Cleaned and de-rusted throttle control assembly.
Assembled carbs
Stripped & wire brushed rear brake levers & bell crank. Reamed bell crank 12,4mm
Fabricated new bush (EN1A Pb) for bell crank = 8mm ID, 12,4mm OD, grooved for grease.
Fitted stainless steel washers, nuts and cotter pins to rear brake lever assembly.
Wire brushed and sanded black paint from air filter housing & components.
Primed and spray painted air filter housing, round knob for housing screw, brake lever & bell
crank metallic silver. (Re-painted - see 16/17 February 2008)
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
14
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Prepared, primed and spray painted brake pedal Black Limo. (Re-painted - see 8/9 Dec 2008)
Prepared and primed hand control bodies.
At VMC meeting, Jimmy D***** gave me spring clip for headlight bulb and his partly fabricated
rear mudguard. He told me Andy Stead told him he has a workshop manual for me – I must call
him.
27 October 2007
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Spraypainted L/H hand control Black Limo & polished aluminium hand levers.
Turned new 5/16” BSW threaded cable adjuster for clutch lever (used 5/16” BSW threaded rod,
drilled through 3mm diameter, silver soldered straight knurled 12mm diameter thumb wheel on,
with straight knurled 20mm diameter lock nut)
28 October 2007
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Removed and wire brushed front engine/magneto cover.
Wire brushed frame hanger for top engine mount, together with its bolt and spacer.
Made cardboard template for triangular engine top mounting bracket – to be fabricated from
2,5mm flat plate.
Cleaned & repaired rear brake stop light switch, replaced M4 screws and nuts with s/steel, new
internal spring, fabricated and fitted brass rivet. (Later replaced with new switch from Uli‟s)
Fabricated engine mounting spacer = 27mm OD x 12,5mm ID x 8,75mm thick (EN1A Pb) to
match existing (on 21 Dec 2008, fabricated 2 x new aluminium spacers).
Removed lower engine mounting bolts and cleaned M12 x 1,5 threads with die nut. Reinstalled
with new spring washers and appropriate mounting spacers on LHS.
Wire brushed bolts and nuts for the steering friction damper lower assembly.
Wire brushed all engine, gearbox and transmission fill and drain plugs and fitted copper gaskets.
Cleaned internal threads with M14 x 1,5 tap, and M10 x 1 tap.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
15
31 October 2007
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Fabricated top engine mounting bracket from 2,5mm flat MS plate
Marked out lower fuel tank mounting bracket for bending
Cut 6 x 27mm diameter rubber spacers for top engine mounting bracket and fuel tank lower
mounting bracket using 32mm hole saw
1 - 7 November 2007
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Fabricated lower petrol tank mounting bracket from 2,5mm flat MS plate
Cleaned, primed and sprayed Black Limo topcoat on frame bracket, top engine mounting bracket,
lower petrol tank mounting bracket and tubular spacer.
Replaced 7 x M6 nuts and flat washers for transmission cover with stainless steel equivalents.
Fitted M8 x 75 bolt, spring washer and nut (all s/steel) for gearbox mounting
Replaced 4 x M12 x 1,5 nuts with plated Nylock nuts on lower engine mounting bolts
Replaced 4 x M10 x 1.0 nuts on upper & lower mounting bolts for front suspension
Replaced all M8 bolts, washers & nuts for top engine mounting brackets with stainless steel.
Cleaned & derusted M10 x 1 nut on brake lever, replaced spring washer
Cleaned out spark plug threads with M14 x 1,25 tap
Set valve clearances (inlet = 0,15mm, exhaust = 0,2mm)
Removed gearbox
Removed engine
Fabricated clutch lever bolt (from 80mm plated cap screw) and fitted split pin (3 x 28)
Clutch push rod needs to be checked out. (21 Dec 2008 = appears to work OK)
Reversed gear lever cotter pin, fitted s/steel nut & washer – housing for g/lever oil seal distorted!
Found suitable spring/s for bell housing clutch lever
Replaced clutch adjusting M6 bolt & nut with s/steel, fitted M4 screw to neutral indicator.
Fabricated cotter pin (EN1A Pb) for kick start lever – fitted M6 s/steel nut & washer
Fitted M8 x 45 s/steel bolt for rear brake bell crank
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
16
8 & 9 November 2007
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Fitted M8 x 75 s/steel bolt, nut & washer to gearbox mount on engine
Dismantled front suspension (info from Duane‟s website)
Flatted and buffed/polished aluminium tubes on front suspension, also used Autosol
Sanded painted tubes with water paper to remove up to 2 layers of paint, black and metallic blue.
(Both previous spray jobs did not involve the removal of the tubes!)
Panel beat one tube to restore roundness.
Removed headlight brackets – rust patches on the inside surfaces
10 & 11 November 2007
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Removed wheels, rear swing arm, final drive unit, front swing arm, front & rear suspension units,
steering friction damper components, rear brake lever & components
Removed centre stand, fettled to fit frame brackets, welded stop on RHS of frame
Wire brushed steering friction damper parts to bare metal, removed rust in hydrochloric acid.
Wire brushed driveshaft tube end, various bolts and nuts
Sanded frame components with 220 grit water paper
Polished rear suspension aluminium tubes
Purchased 1L MS primer, 1L 2K Black gloss, 1L 2K hardener, 5L thinners = R345, Randburg
Automotive Paints
Fitted s/steel spring washers x 4 to driveshaft mounting studs
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
17
13 - 15 November 2007
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Rian Emerich sandblasted: front mudguard, rear mudguard, seat frame, centre stand, both
headlight brackets and mounting plates, petrol tank toolbox lid (2,5 hours).
Panel beat petrol tank lid
Brazed cracked headlight mounting brackets
Fabricated another seat mounting bracket (side) from 2,5mm mild steel plate
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
18
16 – 18 November 2007
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Seat springs and chains removed and de-rusted in Hydrochloric acid.
Supplied stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers & lock washers for seat frame.
Arc welded seat frame mounting for side bracket.
Cleaned rear wheel outer oil seal housing.
De-rusted and sanded headlight case with 400 grit water paper.
Fabricated tommy bar for tool kit
Brush painted bare metal and aluminium parts with Duram Metcote NS5 etch primer.
21 November 2007
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1 Hour (Total = 64 hours)
Removed steering head, cleaned ball bearings, races pitted from previous rust, 45 balls, should
be 46 balls of 5,5mm diameter
Large spacer shim missing under yoke – fabricated one (thickness to be measured). Note that
this was too thick after fitting the taper roller steering head bearings.
23 – 25 November
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Overhauled front brakes – seized on one pivot! De-rusted, greased, fitted new split pins, s/steel
lock washers
Overhauled rear brakes, de-rusted, greased, fitted s/steel washer under brake operating lever.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
19
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Started spraying MS primer (mixed 4cm primer + 1cm hardener + 1cm thinners) on rear swing
arm, front swing arm, seat frame and brackets, headlight brackets, steering damper components,
front suspension tubes. Used about 250mL MS Primer.
Flatted primed surfaces using 400 grit water paper.
1 - 2 December 2007
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Fitted some new M10 nuts on cylinder studs.
Removed clutch plate and pressure plate (using 3 x M8 x 1 bolts and nuts). Clutch plate was
“rusted” to pressure plate. Cleaned and de-rusted clutch components.
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Spray painted MS Primer on main frame, front forks, front and rear swing arms, front suspension
tubes, headlight, headlight brackets, centre stand, seat components, steering damper
components. About 250mL MS Primer left.
Flatted primed surfaces with 400 grit water paper.
Bought rubber parts and passenger foot rests from CMC = R375
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24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
20
5 December 2007
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Took one day leave and visited Jan Cornel in Germiston
Jan says backlash in my final drive unit and splines = fine
He says use bit of dishwashing liquid to fit R/H Magura grip - done
He says cut paper gaskets for both sides of carb flanges, rear swing arm – cardan flange, etc
He says cut cork gaskets for aircleaner body and sump
Jan Cornel says don‟t bother with Breather filter insert, etc
Jan Cornel says solid copper gaskets on filler/drain plugs = OK, also use some PTFE tape
Jan Cornel says replace rear brake linings with softer bonded linings
Bought various parts from Jan Cornel = R350-00.
Bought 6mm dia x 70mm hardened & ground steel dowel from Toolquip & Allied. Shortened
dowel to 60mm as indicated in the spec = too long for generator removal! Shortened to 40mm,
now too short, unless I use a longer M8 high tensile bolt! Needed longer dowel to remove the
magneto = 80mm
Removed generator and magneto from engine – cleaned and de-rusted.
Stripped magneto centrifugal advance – pivot pins worn, one spring butchered (subsequently
replaced with new from Uli‟s), cam has wear marks.
De-rusted portion of front seat bracket bought from Jan Cornel.
8 - 9 December 2007
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Sanded and etch-primed (brushed) front and rear mudguards
Attempted to braze weld rear mudguard – not very successful
Removed generator hub and magneto journal oil seals – hardened by age and heat – use Viton.
Turned M5 and M4 electrical screws for generator & magneto connectors respectively.
Primed and flatted with 400 grit water paper 1 x footbrake lever, 4 x foot pegs, tank toolbox cover,
seat front bracket, rear swing arm touch-up, finished MS primer.
Sprayed frame and all components Gloss Black (2K), finished 1L of paint.
Cut 2 x paper gaskets for drive shaft housing joint to bevel drive.
15 – 17 December 2007
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Sprayed both swing arms, front forks, and yoke plate again to reduce runs, after flatting with 400,
1500 and 2000 water paper
Assembled seat frame and cut some treadmill mat for seat backing
Fabricated bearing puller to remove outer portion of 30203 taper roller swing arm bearings
Replaced LHS & RHS rear swing arm bearings 30203 (DYZV) and seals 22 x 40 x 7 Nitrile.
Fabricated magneto & generator extractor from M8 x 100 high tensile bolt
Fitted centre stand to frame with M10 s/steel bolts, spring washers and nuts
Fitted spring to centre stand (shortened one s/steel bolt to clear spring)
Assembled and primed front & rear suspension units, fitted rear units
Fitted new rubbers to main foot rests (used dishwashing liquid to ease them on)
Flatted with 2000 water paper & burnished headlight brackets, headlight and yoke
Buffed M5 round head screws for name plate and fixed name plate to steering head
Fitted rear swing arm to frame – slight preload on taper roller bearings (1/8 turn or less)
Fitted bevel drive to swing arm using new paper gasket (dry).
Fitted Magura grip to RHS hand control – used a bit of dishwashing liquid
Fitted rear wheel
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
21
18 - 24 December 2007
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Disassembled rear wheel, rear suspension units, rear swing arm and bevel drive again
Turned frame upside down and spray painted the frame again (4th time!). Touched up rear swing
arm in the vicinity of the oil seals.
Re-assembled rear wheel, rear suspension units, rear swing arm and bevel drive again
Removed tyre and tube from front wheel, and de-rusted the rim with a file and wire wheel. Coated
inside of rim with Rusist and painted with Duram Metcote NS5 etch primer. Noted that the rim is
not correct for the „bike.
Taped over spoke nipples with black electrical insulation tape, 4 – 5 layers (entire new roll!)
Refitted tyre to front wheel rim with new tube (tube is too big for tyre! – subsequently replaced)
Fitted front seat bracket to frame with s/steel M6 bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts.
Removed lower steering head ball bearing inner race (borrowed bearing extractor from Ivan, but
the bearing was a loose fit on it‟s seat)
Removed ball bearing outer races from steering head – tapped out easily with 12mm round bar.
Cut cork gasket for air filter housing.
Removed LHS cylinder head – quite a few damaged fins to be repaired! High compression piston
marked 68.42 (= first oversize), combustion chamber showing damage.
Removed both LHS and RHS cylinders and pistons. Bores looked very good, pistons looked fine,
rings looked fine, but end gaps measured to exceed spec.
LHS conrod small end bush scored and needed replacing. Very visible radial play between bush
and wrist pin. LHS piston showed some wear on ring land consistent with loose wrist pin.
Removed RHS cylinder head. This head had been cleaned up prior to purchase. High
compression piston marked 68.42 (= first oversize) fitted.
Cleaned spark plug threads with M14 x 1,25 tap
RHS conrod small end bush loose (turned easily in conrod). No excessive radial play
Stripped and cleaned all four rocker arms – excessive axial play to be eliminated when refitting.
Dismantled valves, cleaned and ground in. Seat widths = 2.2mm after fine grinding. Spec = 1.5 /
2mm. LH cylinder exhaust valve pitted on face and chrome worn at tops of stems.
Measured piston skirt diameters and cylinder bores. All fine. Piston clearance calculated at
0.125mm instead of 0.08mm specified. Measured 0.1mm clearance.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
22
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
23
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
24
25 - 31 December 2007
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Measured piston ring gaps ½” below top of bores = 0.55 / 0.58mm for top rings, = 0.8mm for 2 nd
rings (both out of spec)
Measured piston ring groove clearances = 0.05mm (spec = 0.07 – 0.1mm)
Cleaned cylinder base stud threads with M10 die nut
Checked wrist pin radial play in conrod bushes. LHS had excessive play.
Cleaned and oiled valve lifters (tappets).
Cleaned cylinders/barrels in hot water & caustic soda
Fabricated 2 x stainless steel washers for steering yoke. (Redone – see 5/6 January 2008)
Fabricated heavy stay (with lever) to clamp flywheel for removal of the 41mm AF bolt
Removed 41mm AF bolt using heavy tube spanner, with impact from 2kg hammer - VERY tight!
Cleaned up outer face of 41mm AF bolt in the lathe
Removed flywheel – came off with only finger pressure, fortunately.
Removed rear silicon oil seal – to be replaced. Crank/Flywheel woodruff key to be replaced.
Cleaned inside of engine case bell-housing
Washers missing from rear crank bearing carrier (replaced, see 2 January 2008)
Removed rust from cylinder fins by electrolysis
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
25
1 January 2008
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2.5 Hours (Total = 131.5 hours)
Cleaned Everbest fuel petcock. Needed fibre gaskets and top nut.
Fabricated pivot pin from stainless steel for foot brake bell crank, also s/steel washers
Fabricated 4 x M5 stainless steel bolts for tops of carb float covers.
2 January 2008
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2 Hours (Total = 133.5 hours)
Visited Jan Cornel again. Confirmed order of spares (to arrive mid-February 2008). Jan also
measured pistons and bores – confirmed 0.1mm diametral play between pistons and bores which
should be OK with the high compression pistons. Measured gudgeon pin wear = negligible. Also
checked for big end bearing play – said they are also OK. Jan said the valve rocker ends need to
be polished flat by engineering works. He said one could lap the taper and seat on the crank and
flywheel using grinding paste after the crank is removed from the engine. He recommended
removing the crank to clean the slingers. He also said the Silicon rear crank oil seal can be
replace with either Nitrile or Viton seals. He showed me new examples of both seals (the Viton
one was 8mm thick vs 10mm for Nitrile & Silicon. Jan said pushrod tube rubber seals on the
motor are too hard. Bead blasting will require total dismantlement with all holes blanked off, etc.
This also applies to wheel hubs, etc. Jan steam cleans the inside of the engine casing before
taking it for bead blasting. He quoted R1100 for new Metzeler ME11 front tyre, R750 for tappet
cover, R450 for set of tank knee pads. He said try to keep fuel cock soaked in petrol to stop it
from leaking. He also gave me “top hat” for ignition switch. He said the valve pushrod tubes I
showed him will be fine, no need to re-chrome them. He confirmed that the foot brake lever uses
the foot peg rubber as a stop, and not the brake light switch! The seat bracket fits between the
mudguard and the frame on the front mounting bolts. Jan also said there should be no spring
washers on a BMW (not a British bike that vibrates the fasteners loose!). Use flat washers.
Also visited Mike Lester in Edenvale. Mike recommends Supreme Bumpers for chroming. He
said I can try the Wynns Cleaner polish on the 2K topcoat after flatting with 2000 water paper –
milder than burnishing compound. He recommends s/steel exhaust system from Bob Baker at
R3500 (no longer available!). He has painted his cylinder fins with Black 2K – says do NOT
powder coat cylinders as it may lead to overheating! He says I could use etch primer on cylinder
fins before coating with 2K. He clearcoats the petrol tank after pin striping (light grey) because
jeans will rub against paintwork and remove pin striping.
Removed 4 x stripped M6 studs from rear bearing carrier, and fabricated 5 new M6 studs from
high tensile 8.8 bolts. Supplied new high tensile nuts and flat washers.
Brush-painted Duran Metcote NS5 etch primer on cylinder fins.
3 January 2008
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2.5 Hours (Total = 136 hours)
Cleaned threads in cylinders (for cylinder head bolts) with M10 tap
Removed sump, cleaned and flattened around bolt holes. Oil strainer bolts were less than finger
tight. Cleaned oil pump strainer in petrol. Sump to be bead blasted prior to spray painting – silver
with clearcoat. Note that there is no sieve or baffle plate, and no holes for mounting one either.
Cut new sump gasket from 2mm cork sheet
Bought black gloss engine enamel spray and spray-painted both cylinders/barrels
Placed Everbest fuel cock in petrol to swell the cork material
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
26
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Removed timing cover – used part of bearing puller to pull the cover off the generator bearing.
The inside of the motor was black from oil and heat! Note: there is no facility for a wire circlip to
retain the engine breather disk.
4 January 2008
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Removed oil pump gear (14mm AF nut Left Hand thread!). Pulled gear off with 3-leg puller.
Removed camshaft and gear. Fabricated a puller using 100mm high tensile bolt and nut.
Camshaft pulled out of inner race of rear bearing. Needed to extract bearing from engine casing.
Pressed cam gear off shaft (5 tons), & pressed bearing off camshaft.
Washed timing gear cover in petrol and hot water & soap.
Ordered 2 x 6203, 1 x 6004, 2 x 6207 bearings, 1 x 52 x 72 x 8 Viton seal from Invicta. Available
Thursday next week. All bearings supposed to be KBC.
Collected taper roller bearings for steering head from Post Office (no additional charges!)
Fitted taper roller bearings (51W/34W) to steering head and assembled forks. Fabricated spacer
was too thick. Need to fabricate a thinner spacer.
5 - 6 January 2008
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Polished & fitted valve push rod tubes to cylinders (about 2mm below mounting surface)
Assembled Earle‟s forks, front suspension, fitted front wheel, fitted headlight brackets with s/steel
hardware.
Fabricated a thin spacer for steering head from tinplate.
Adjusted preload in steering head and fitted steering friction damper.
Fabricated 6 x 25mm diameter stainless steel washers to fit on steering yoke and front
suspension bolts.
Levered 6004 bearing off crank gear with two large screwdrivers.
Purchased more rubber parts from CMC = R150
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
27
7 – 8 January 2008
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Used 2-jaw bearing puller to remove crank gear (very tight) from crankshaft. Note that there are
no circlips restraining the crank gear, but there is a spacer between the 6004 bearing and the
crank gear.
Cleaned M8 threads in main bearing carrier for the removal tool. Screwed 2 x 150mm lengths of
M8 threaded rod into the removal tool holes. Screwed a short M8 bolt into top of crankshaft to
take the pressure of the puller. Placed “universal” puller plate over the crankshaft nose and over
the two lengths of threaded rod. Used M8 nuts over washers to pull main bearing carrier,
complete with main bearing, off the crankshaft.
Used SKF internal jaw puller to extract 6203 camshaft bearing from engine housing – easy
removal.
Removed screw from front slinger and removed front slinger from crankshaft. There was one
spacer between the slinger and the crank gear.
Removed and labelled valve lifter/tappets. Also labelled all spacers on the crankshaft.
Tapped rear of crankshaft forward with a nylon hammer. The rear bearing started moving with the
crankshaft out of its carrier. Used internal jaw puller to push crankshaft out of rear bearing and to
pull rear bearing back into its carrier. (Later I found that the crank should be removed with the
rear bearing fitted to the crank!).
Tilted front of crankshaft downward and rotated crank assembly until it came out of the engine
casing.
Removed screw from rear slinger and removed rear slinger from crankshaft. There were two
spacers between the slinger and the rear crankshaft bearing.
Cleaned all M6 threads in engine casing with M6 tap.
Purchased 1 metre of spark plug wire from Blitz Motor Spares.
9 January 2008
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Cleaned muck from slingers. Removed about 60 grams of muck from both slingers!
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
28
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Prepared cylinder heads, tappet covers, sump, slingers and engine cover for bead blasting.
10 January 2008
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0 hours (Total = 154 hours)
Zane took slingers, sump, front cover, heads and tappet covers for bead blasting (I supplied a
bottle of Red Heart Rum as compensation to the other party)
Collected 2x 6203, 1 x 6004, 2 x 6207 bearings and 1 x Viton seal 52 x 72 x 8 from Invicta.
Collected samples of Nitrile sheet in 1mm and 1,5mm thickness from Shidawei, no charge.
Purchased 300 x 200 x 2,5 flat MS plate and 3m of 16mm x 3mm MS flat bar from Fleet Steel.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
29
12 - 13 January 2008
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Painted sump cover exterior with self-etching NS5 primer.
Washed engine main casing with paraffin, engine cleaner, water jet, hot water with soap, rinsed in
cold water and dried with compressed air
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Stripped cylinder heads of valve gear and washed them in hot soapy water. Dried with
compressed air.
Washed front engine cover, tappet covers in hot soapy water, dried with compressed air.
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24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
30
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Washed all valves, springs, cotters etc to remove all traces of bead blasting residue. Measured
valve stems, valve springs (outer springs in spec, inners springs a bit short)
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Cut Nitrile gaskets for fuel tank emblems
Pressed front crank bearing out of carrier = 2 tons on hydraulic press (next time use heat!).
Removed lock from fuel tank lid
Measured clearance between valve stems and guides with dial indicator – stems projecting 15mm
from top of guides, indicator about 12mm from top of guides. RHS exh = 0.5mm, RHS inlet =
0.2mm: LHS exh = 0.45mm, LHS inlet = 0.15mm. Spec = 0.040 – 0.070mm diametral clearance.
Measured bore diameter of guides with small bore gauges: RHS exh = 7.22mm, RHS inlet =
7.07mm; LHS exh = 7.20mm, LHS inlet = 7.06mm. Spec = 7.005mm maximum when new.
Measured valve stem diameters average = 6.92mm for exhaust valves and 6.93/6.94mm for inlet
valves. This was within a wear limit of 1 thou inch (0.025mm) of the diameters when new (6.935 –
0.0254 = 6.91mm)
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20 January 2008
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Fitted new high tensile M6 studs to rear crank bearing carrier with Ritelok Studlock, after cleaning
threads in engine casing with an M6 tap and Meths. Found ¼” diameter s/steel wavy washers
and fitted 5 to rear bearing carrier.
Cleaned and washed front main bearing carrier.
Staked the blanking grub screw in front main bearing carrier
26 - 27 January 2008
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Honed cylinders using Zane‟s hone and H32 oil. Washed cylinders in hot water and dishwashing
soap. Oiled bores lightly with H32 oil for storage.
Fabricated metal clamping ring for sump cover using 16 x 3mm flat bar. Made bends with oxyacetylene heating, drilled holes 6.8mm
Washed crank assembly in petrol.
Measured conrod (axial) end play = excessive, and rear main bearing journal was undersize
(34.97mm)
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
31
29 – 30 January 2008
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Visited Al Gibson and Mike Lester
Al Gibson verified crankshaft OK, gave me 7mm Matra reamer for valve guides, crank rebuild
instructions
Mike Lester gave me a pair of old OEM mufflers (both rusted through)
Dropped off seat at Classic Auto Trimmers for recovering. To be collected 6 Feb.
Bought springs from Starco and fabricated another centre stand spring.
3 February 2008
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Visited CMC again, mainly to swap out silent blocs. The new stock should arrive next week.
Swapped out silent blocs for the correct 2 for the rear suspension units.
Fitted new silent blocs to rear suspension units.
Enquired about best tyres and was told by Hennie, John and Graham that Metzeler is still the one
to go for, but buy the cheapest one = ME22. Hennie confirmed that the 4.00 x 18” Yokohama on
the rear of my bike should also be changed for a 3.50 x 18” tyre.
Hennie also confirmed that Loctite could be used on the rear main bearing journal of the crank.
Asked Hennie to look out for rear mudguard – he says front one is even more rare!
5 – 7 February 2008
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Bought 2 x Metzeler ME22 3.50 x 18” tyres from Mosskays @ R325-00 each including VAT, fitting
& balancing. New King Tube fitted on rear wheel = R50-00.
Bought 5L Shell Rotella Tx SAE 40 oil from Midas, Primrose Hill.
Jan Cornel phoned with good news and bad! Spares from Uli‟s are in the country, but Customs
want to charge around R2500 in Duty! Referred back to Customs, could take a while to resolve.
There should be no duty on these parts.
8 February 2008
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Went to Classic Auto Trimmers to collect BMW seat. Piping was black, not white, no strap. To be
corrected – most disappointed (petrol = R150 to date already!)
9 – 10 February 2008
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Faced front wheel hub seal retainer in the lathe and countersunk 4 x 4mm diameter holes
Turned new top hat spacer (LHS/outer) from BMS for front wheel bearing stack to suit new 25 x
35 x 7 Nitrile oil seal for hub nut. Old top hat spacer was less than 24mm diameter and scored.
Fitted new DYZV 30204 bearings to front wheel (old FAG bearings were pitted), and adjusted
preload by lapping the “wedding band” spacer and the large outer spacer.
Replaced old felt oil seal on the inner hub of the front wheel with a 25 x 38 x 7 Nitrile seal.
Refitted front wheel to the frame.
Replaced one rear wheel bearing with a DYZV 30204 (old NSK bearing had evidence of minor
rust pitting) and adjusted preload by lapping the “wedding band” spacer and the large outer
spacer.
Note that the outer oil seal on the rear wheel is 24 x 35 x 7 (a new 25mm OD top hat spacer was
fabricated on 24 Jan 2009), and the inner seal is 25 x 38 x 6.
Refitted rear wheel to the frame.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
32

Used Shell Retinax HD2 grease to pack wheel bearings
12 – 14 February 2008


Collected re-covered seat from Classic Auto Trimmers = R513-00
Bought 2 x oil seals = 24 x 35 x 7, and 25 x 38 x 7 from Bearing Man, Ontdekkers Rd.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
33
15 February 2008



Phoned Bill Speight re rubber parts – gave me new e-mail address and e-mailed price list.
Phoned Jan Cornel re length of inner valve springs – he said should be OK, can try to stretch
them a bit. Still no news from Customs.
Phoned Hennie van Zyl – he said buy new valve springs now. Still looking for rear mudguard for
me.
16 – 17 February 2008







Brush-painted Duram Metcote NS5 primer on fabricated sump support strip.
Stripped Dulux silver spray paint off airfilter housing and both rear suspension mounts.
De-rusted airfilter housing and hooter parts in Hydrochloric Acid.
Primed sump, sump support strip, airfilter housing, airfilter clamp bolt, hooter front grill and hooter
plate with MS 2K primer.
Spray painted sump, sump support strip, airfilter housing, airfilter clamp bolt and both rear
suspension mounts with silver paint (2K).
Filled bevel drive with 150mL of Shell Rotella Tx SAE40 oil (drained and replaced with SAE90 oil
on 21 Dec 2008).
Fabricated tank toolbox lock.
20 - 22 February 2008

0 hours (Total = 180 hours)
Requested Piet B to assist in purchasing spares from Germany. He confirmed on 22 February
that he would purchase the spares on my behalf and bring to South Africa.
23 - 24 February 2008




Added another thin brass shim to Earle‟s fork pivot, and readjusted tapered roller bearing preload.
Cut 4 x paper gaskets for carburetor flange/manifolds.
Inspected wiring harness = very good condition
Inspected control cables – disappointing quality of fittings. Missing front brake swivel joints.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
34
25 - 26 February 2008


Rubbed fuel tank down with 400 and 600 water paper
Mark Bell of Pratley confirmed use of Quick Set White Epoxy to glue ceramic resistor.
28 February 2008


Jan Cornel phoned, still no word from Customs. He had small-end bushes, pushrod tube rubbers,
and gaskets in stock. He said piston rings can be purchased from Cord Rings. I told him I would
wait for Uli‟s parts from Customs.
Craig Harmse confirmed Chemence has stock of RT20G. He delivered 50mL container on
Saturday 1 March 2008 = R68-00.
2 March 2008


1 Hour (Total = 185.5 hours)
Bought more spares from CMC (mudguard, silent blocs, side stand).
Pressed 4 x new silent blocs into front suspension.
4 March 2008

Collected spares from Jan Cornel, including tail light shell.
7 March 2008



Phoned Allcoweld (Russell) re welding of fins on cylinder head. Minimum charge = R150 and
hourly rate = R300.
Phoned MCR Specialised Welding (Ryan) and went to see him in Strijdom Park. Quoted R235 +
VAT for cylinder head and R450 + VAT for tappet cover, including shaping/forming.
Phoned Charlie Hamer of Aero Tig and he quoted around R140 for welding only of both tappet
cover and cylinder head. Arranged to meet with him at Piston Ring Club Swap Meet on 16 March.
8 - 9 March 2008





Removed rust from crank lobes with sandpaper & paraffin.
Removed old small end bushes in the hydraulic press. Cleaned new bushes and conrod holes
with methylated spirits. Applied RiteLok RT20G retainer to outside of new bushes and to inside of
conrod holes. Pressed new bushes into conrods using the hydraulic press.
Drilled oil holes in small end bushes with 3,2mm drill bit and pressed steel ball on inside.
De-burred rear bearing seat on crankshaft, and liberally oiled crank assembly.
Repaired generator load resistor with Pratley Quick Set White Epoxy
15 – 16 March 2008






Fitted new advance spring to magneto.
Fitted new float guide pins to both carbs.
Confirmed that new trim ring for speedometer fits.
Fitted new drain/filler plug to drive shaft housing, with new copper washers.
Took one cylinder head, one tappet cover and front mudguard to Charlie Hamer for welding.
Purchased 6 x Norma 70 – 90mm hose clamps at Piston Ring Swap Meet.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
35
19 –20 March 2008

Collected welding from Charlie Hamer - very reasonable price!
21 – 24 March 2008

Machined welded fins on tappet cover and cylinder head – used 8,5mm end mill in milling
machine, rotary burr in Dremel, lots of hand filing.


Smoothed dents in front mudguard & petrol tank with body filler.
Sourced M5, M6 and M8 s/steel hex screws, washers, lock washers and nuts from stock for fitting
front & rear mudguards. Faced and polished some s/steel hex screws and s/steel washers.
Removed old chrome trim ring from speedometer – need to paint pointer off-white and clean dial
face before fitting new chrome trim ring.
Roly Tilman gave me rear mudguard, front fender brace, tappet cover, sump cover,
damaged tail light shell, exhaust headers & cross over tube. I gave him my R67/R68 rear
mudguard in exchange.


26 March 2008



Zane bead blasted one cylinder head, 2 x tappet covers and domed engine cover.
Bought s/steel bolts & nuts from JKM
Washed bead blasted parts in hot water & soap, dried with compressed air, and coated tappet
covers and dome with Shield penetrating oil.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
36
29 – 31 March 2008



4 Hours (Total = 200.5 hours0
Fabricated sheet metal sleeve for rear mudguard.
Fabricated 12 x s/steel M6 studs and fitted to sump with RiteLok Studlock.
Removed both 5/16” BSW studs from Roly Tilman tappet cover, turned them down for a length of
23mm and threaded them M6. Fitted modified studs to tappet cover with RiteLok Studlock.
3 April 2008

Collected set of two new middle/second rings from Uli‟s at Post Office (R12-00 Customs
clearance). New rings have steps that face the bottom of the piston.
4 April 2008








Fabricated an inclined block from chipboard to mount cylinder head for valve guide replacement.
Turned a 12mm diameter bar down to 7mm diameter for a length of about 30mm to use as a drift
to remove old valve guides.
Heated both cylinder heads in the domestic oven at 200 deg C for 30 minutes, and placed new
valve guides in freezer.
Placed heated cylinder heads on inclined block and drifted out old valve guides – came out easily.
Inserted new (frozen) valve guides in cylinder heads. One guide in each head virtually dropped in
place requiring no persuasion with a hammer & drift. The other two guides went in about half way
using finger pressure and then required very light taps with the drift and hammer to seat.
Note that the new valve guides are 43mm long, while the removed guides are 50mm long. Most
of the difference in length is accommodated in the tappet cover side of the cylinder head. This
difference was later clarified with Jan Cornel.
Reamed new valve guides with Matra reamer in Ryobi cordless drill (0-500rpm) with cutting oil.
Note that in future bronze guides should be reamed DRY.
Exhaust valve guide in LHS cylinder head was too loose, and fell out when attempting to ream it.
Measured hole in cylinder head = 13,10mm, whereas the guide OD = 13,05mm.
7 April 2008



Jan Cornel confirmed that the 43mm long valve guides are correct and that I could lightly knurl the
loose guide, and perhaps use some high temperature Loctite to fit it.
Knurled loose valve guide to ~13,15mm OD, heated LHS cylinder head to 180 degree C for about
30 minutes, and fitted new valve guide (after freezing) with the drift and hammer successfully
(tight fit!). Note that the RT20G hardened too quickly under the heat and had to be dispensed
with.
Reamed exhaust valve guide in the LHS cylinder head to size when cold, using neat cutting oil.
Note that in future bronze guides should be reamed DRY.
12 – 13 April 2008




2.5 Hours (Total = 207.5 hours
More fabrication on rear mudguard – hinge, extension pieces, brackets with M8 threads, grinding.
More panel beating, filling, smoothing of front mudguard.
Took rear mudguard to Rian Emerich for sand blasting
Bought 1m of M6 s/steel studding
15 April 2008

Collected sand blasted rear mudguard from Rian Emerich.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
37
16 April 2008

Purchased 12mm OD hydraulic steel tubing (2 x 460mm) from Lazer Hydraulics for R15-00 to
fabricate stays for rear mudguard. One piece was gratis offcut, and the other cost R33/m.
19 – 20 April 2008



Flatted sandblasted rear mudguard components with medium emery cloth and painted them with
Duram Metcote NS5 etch primer.
Purchased 1kg Formula 40 body filler, 1m P60 sandpaper from Randburg Automotive Paints.
Welded brackets with M8 studs to rear mudguard
24 – 27 April 2008




2.5 Hours Total = 213 hours)
Turned 2 x front brake swivels using 10mm diameter stainless steel rod.
Buffed s/steel front brake swivels, wire brushed & buffed rusted nipple on front brake cable.
Heated engine front main bearing carrier to 160 deg C and new NTN bearing dropped in.
Cleaned slingers in Caustic Soda
28 April 2008




Fitted new 6203 bearings (Rollway) to camshaft.
Fitted rear oil slinger (staked retaining screw), spacer washer & new rear 6207 bearing (NTN) to
crankshaft, heated engine casing to 85 deg C in the domestic oven for 30 minutes and fitted
crankshaft in engine casing.
Fitted front oil slinger (staked retaining screw), 2 spacer washers, and drew new front 6207
bearing (NTN) and bearing housing onto nose of crankshaft. Before fully seating the bearing, the
nuts and bolts retaining the main bearing housing were fitted and tightened incrementally. When
tight, the front bearing was drawn some more onto the nose of the crankshaft, until it could go no
more. Unfortunately, at this stage the front slinger interfered with the back of the front main
bearing housing resulting in heavy rotation of the crankshaft. The crankshaft was pressed back
slightly to increase the clearance between the oil slinger and the front main bearing housing
resulting in much improved free rotation of the crankshaft. Note that a slightly thicker spacer
washer is required between the front oil slinger and main bearing to improve the clearance.
Also note that the rear main bearing was covering the oil drain hole in the rear main bearing
carrier – a sign that the rear spacer was too thick.
29 April 2008



Removed front main bearing and housing with universal puller, removed 2 spacers and the front
slinger. Removed crankshaft from the engine housing.
Held front slinger by its central hole in the 3-jaw chuck and pressed a piece of wood laterally
against the periphery of the slinger while rotating to true/flatten the slinger – worked very well to
reduce the lateral runout!
Turned a new front spacer OD = 46,5mm, ID = 35,0mm and 3,61mm thick. The two spacers
removed added up to a thickness of 3,0mm, thus gaining 0,61mm extra clearance for the slinger.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
38
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







Used SKF internal puller to remove the rear main bearing from the crankshaft, and removed the
spacer (3,59mm) and slinger. (My guesstimate of 3,61mm was spot-on for the front spacer!)
Held rear slinger by it‟s central hole in the lathe 3-jaw chuck and pressed a piece of wood laterally
against the periphery of the slinger while rotating to true/flatten the slinger – worked very well!
Re-fitted rear slinger, staked retaining screw and fitted the 2mm thick spacer previously fitted at
the front bearing.
Cleaned journal surfaces and coated with a thin layer of RT20G high temperature retainer.
Seated the rear main bearing on the crankshaft journal – clamped using two old outer bearing
shells and the flywheel bolt.
Measured oil pump clearances. Gear backlash = 0,2mm (spec = 0,05mm max), end clearance =
0,11mm for the drive gear and < 0,05mm for the driven gear (spec = 0,05mm max). This will have
to do for now.
Heated engine casing to 90 deg C in the domestic oven for 45 minutes and fitted the crankshaft in
the engine casing. Rear bearing dropped fully into place easily – oil slinger right up to inside of
engine casing, and oil drain hole visible in the main bearing carrier.
Fitted front oil slinger (staked retaining screw), new spacer washer (3,61mm), and drew new front
6207 bearing (NTN) and bearing housing onto nose of crankshaft. Before fully seating the
bearing, the nuts and bolts retaining the main bearing housing were fitted and tightened
incrementally. When tight, the front bearing was drawn some more onto the nose of the
crankshaft, until it could go no more. As planned, there is now sufficient clearance between the
front slinger and the back of the front main bearing carrier, with no interference. The clearance
between the rear slinger and the rear bearing carrier is now about 1,5mm and fairly even.
Measured to confirm that the conrods are centrally located in the engine housing bores.
Confirmed that the oil drain hole in the rear main bearing carrier is now visible and accessible.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
39
1 May 2008

Visited Jan Cornel 14h00 – 16h00 to ream conrod bushes, using his “Hunger” alignment tool and
an adjustable reamer.

Piston pins have very little wear. Jan says I can polish the piston pins in the lathe using fine
emery cloth.
Jan confirmed crankshaft location is fine, enough clearance for front slinger.

2 May 2008




Heated camshaft gear to 100 deg C in the domestic oven and pressed it on to the keyed shaft
with the hydraulic press (still took 3 tons of pressure to fit the gear).
Heated engine casing to 80 deg C in the domestic oven and fitted camshaft into engine casing –
went in easily with light hammer taps. Secured into position using the four M6 screws.
Heated crankshaft gear to yellow heat on a mild steel plate with oxy-acetylene torch and fitted it to
nose of crankshaft to align with mark on camshaft gear. Gear seated easily with light hammer
taps on spacer tube; then pulled gear tighter onto crankshaft using the high tensile M8 bolt and
nut over the spacer tube and let it cool.
Heated oil pump gear to 80 deg C in the domestic oven and seated it in place using the 14mm AF
left hand thread nut. Bent locking tab over nut.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
40
3 May 2008

John W****** called at around 13h00 to offer complete rear fender for R1200. Bought complete
rear mudguard from him, including tail light, number plate carrier.
10 May 2008

0.25 Hour (Total = 225.25 hours)
Tapped thread for tail light screw M4. Fitted s/steel M4 screw, slotted.
17 – 18 May 2008









Bought 1m x 1m Flexoid 0,4mm gasket paper from Unnic Midas.
Cut new gasket for timing cover from 0,4mm Flexoid gasket paper.
Fitted original spacer and new KBC 6004 bearing to crankshaft nose using pipe and bolt as a
press. Note that there is no provision for a circlip.
Fitted new Woodruff key, oil retainer sheetmetal disc for rear crank bearing, and new wavy spring
washer to crankshaft for flywheel.
Fitted wavy spring washer and crankcase breather disc to camshaft nose.
Cut new cork gasket for oil pump strainer/pickup – replaced with Flexoid 1,5mm gasket on 5 June.
Refitted captive nuts (M6) to front engine cover.
Measured new rings gaps = 0,4mm for top & middle rings and 0,45mm for oil ring (13mm from top
of cylinder and square to the bore in left hand cylinder)
Set spark plug gaps to 0,6mm
20 May 2008

Measured dimensions of new piston rings
24 May 2008




Fabricated 2 x wood supports for conrods & pistons
Verified that oil passages are clear (used compressed air)
Fitted oil pump pickup/strainer using new cork gasket with Hylomar on both sides. Replaced with
Flexoid 1,5mm gasket on 7 June 2008.
Fitted sump cover using new cork gasket with Hylomar on cover side only.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
41
1 June 2008


Purchased timing cover gasket from CMC, flattened after soaking in water.
Modified red fibre gasket to 19mm x 15mm in the lathe for fuel tap.
2 June 2008


0.25 Hour (Total = 230 hours)
Purchased red fibre gaskets from Lazer Hydraulics.
Modified red fibre gasket to 21mm x 17,5mm in the lathe for fuel tap.
5 June 2008

Cut oil pump pickup/strainer gasket from 1,5mm Flexoid.
7 – 8 June 2008


Removed sump cover and replaced oil pump pickup/strainer cork gasket with Flexoid gasket.
Fitted hard drive magnet in sump cover, replaced sump cover.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
42
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




Fitted rear crank bearing splash cover and Viton rear crank bearing seal, lubed with MS grease.
Used Tippex to whiten timing marks on flywheel, buffed flywheel seal surface.
Fitted new Woodruff key and wavy spring washer and bolted flywheel on using pneumatic impact
wrench.
Measured initial flywheel lateral runout using dial indicator = 0,4mm t.i.r. Spec = 0.1mm (max).
Removed, scraped internal taper, blued and refitted flywheel about 20 times before achieving a
lateral runout of 0,22mm t.i.r. (Total indicated reading)
Crimped lock washer against flywheel bolt.
17- 18 June 2008



Took heads & valves to J.B Engineering to cut seats – Dave & Camper say exhaust valve stems
are worn! R150-00 to cut seats 3-angle. (They damaged bore of exhaust valve guide in RHS
head)
Stoned rocker tips with a triangular oil stone
Camper said not to worry about 0,22mm tir lateral runout on edge of flywheel.
20 June 2008



Returned RHS cylinder head to J.B Engineering. At first Camper was unwilling to believe that the
damage was due to their methods, but then one of the workers/operators admitted that the
exhaust valve guide had fallen out when he tried to cut the seat. He must have damaged the
guide when he replaced it! Camper agreed to turn a new guide out of PB1 bronze with the correct
interference fit in the head, and to recess the port end 8mm diameter for about 3mm deep. He
would use my Matra reamer on the guide (returned to me!) He would contact me on Monday
when the job is completed (never did – in fact not once did J.B Engineering contact me!)
Washed LHS cylinder head in hot water and soap, assembled LHS cylinder head, original valves,
springs, etc.
Measured LHS outer valve spring installed height = 33mm on one valve and 34mm on the other.
21 June 2008


Fabricated flywheel puller using M16 x 1.5 bolt & nut, 12mm plate and 2 x M10 x 1 bolts.
Removed, scraped and refitted flywheel again to result in lateral runout of 0,16mm t.i.r.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
43
24 – 27 June 2008



Collected RHS cylinder head from J.B Engineering on 26 June. At around 11h00, when I went to
collect the head, it was ready, but when Dave handed it to me I saw that once again the bore of
the new guide was damaged (confirmed by Zane), also no counter-bore (as undertaken). Dave
said I must talk to Camper later in the day when he returns from an outside job. I took my reamer
with me, and returned after 16h00 when Camper handed me the head – they had tried to disguise
the damage to the guide bore using a flex-hone and bell-mouthed the bore! Camper stated, “You
are “different” to other people!” Took my cylinder head & reamer (no charge) and “cut my losses!”
Fabricated 4 x s/steel M8 x 1 dome nuts for driveshaft tube studs.
Purchased 200mm of LG2 bronze 21mm diameter from Metals Centre.
28 – 29 June 2008


Polished 4 x s/steel M8 x 1 dome nuts for driveshaft tube studs on buffing wheel.
Turned 2 blank exhaust valve guides OD = 13,35mm, ID = 6,5mm, L = 90mm (for two), opposite
ends counter-bored with end mill 8mm diameter for 4mm deep, chamfered. This was wasted
effort as the bronze was LG2 (leaded gunmetal). The colour, however, appears similar to Uli‟s
valve guides.
1 July 2008

Purchased Phosphor Bronze bar PB1 from Gold Circle Metals, 19mm diameter x 200mm.
3 July 2008



Heated RHS cylinder head in oven for 40 min from cold to 200 deg C.
Placed heated RHS cylinder head on inclined block and drifted out damaged exhaust valve guide
from J.B Engineering – tight fit.
Measured J.B Engineering fabricated valve guide OD = 13,10mm.
5 – 6 July 2008





Turned new exhaust valve guide from PB1 bronze: OD = 13,12mm, ID = drilled 6,90mm, turned
groove 9,0mm from top of guide, groove = 1,0mm wide and 0,5mm deep, counterbored with end
mill = 8mm diameter and 4,0mm deep, chamfer = 70 deg on port side and 45 deg on spring side.
Heated RHS cylinder head in oven for 40 min from cold to 200 deg C, and placed new fabricated
exhaust valve guide in freezer, after fitting circlip.
Placed heated RHS cylinder head on inclined block and tapped in new fabricated exhaust valve
guide covered in talcum powder. The guide was a tight fit!
After the cylinder head had cooled, reamed fabricated valve guide dry using Ryobi cordless drill
machine – tough to ream!
Washed RHS cylinder head in hot soapy water, dried with compressed air, flatted sealing surface
with 320 waterpaper, sprayed Wynn‟s lubricant to prevent rust of metal parts.
13 July 2008

Assembled original valves in RHS cylinder head, fitted tappet cover & gasket.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
44
18 July 2008







Fabricated 1mm shim washer that fits between the cam gear and the wavy spring washer for the
engine breather disc.
Soaked timing gear cover gasket in water, spread a thin film of Hylomar on both sides, and fitted
the timing gear cover.
Fabricated three washers for the M6 cap screws, and fitted all twelve cap screws to the timing
gear cover and torqued them to 9Nm.
Fitted the new Viton oil seals to the magneto and generator positions in the timing gear cover.
Cleaned all four tappets in petrol and fitted them in position after coating with Wynns assembly
lube.
Used the Dremel-type tool to grind semi-circles in rubber seals for all four valve pushrod tubes to
ensure the oil splash holes in the engine casing remain clear after fitting. Note that this
modification came from the slash2 Group and relates to rubber seals purchased from Uli‟s.
Fitted the four modified rubber valve pushrod tube seals to engine casing.
27 July 2008

Wire-brushed cylinder head bolts and valve rocker arm components.
28 July 2008

Piet B delivered new exhaust valves and kickstart rubber hardware.
2 August 2008




Fitted new exhaust valves to both cylinder heads, together with new valve springs (outer). Lightly
ground valves and seats. Measured outer valve spring installed heights.
Lightly polished both piston pins in lathe at 600 rpm with 800 grit water paper.
Chamfered both sets of compression and 2nd piston ring gap edges lightly with a needle file.
Fitted pistons in lightly oiled bores with the gap for the oil ring at the top of the cylinder, and the
other rings spaced at approx 120 degrees – presses in easily with the chamfer at the edge of the
bore. Checked that arrows on pistons face front of engine.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
45
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




Smeared light layer of silicon grease in rubber valve guide tube bores, and lightly oiled piston pins
and piston pin bores, as well as conrod small-end bores with assembly lube.
Fitted new aluminium cylinder gaskets to the block dry. (Subsequently, disassembled on 3 Aug)
Pressed piston pins through holes in pistons and through conrod – nice easy press fit with thumbs
(LHS needed some heat from heat gun), and fitted wire circlips fully home.
Hand-offered cylinders to the engine casing, pressing pistons deeper into the bore until seated on
engine casing M10 studs.
Filed flats on all 8 s/steel cylinder base washers to clear, and hand tightened M10 s/steel nuts.
Touched up black heat-resistant paint on outside of cylinders.
3 August 2008
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
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

Purchased chromed carburettor air pipe for RHS from CMC. Test-assembled cylinder head,
gearbox and carb to confirm that it fits. One of the air pipes received with the bike appears to be
for an R60 (it is about 25mm longer).
Removed both cylinders and cleaned cylinder base gaskets and mating surfaces with Acetone.
Applied thin film of Hylomar to both sides of the base gaskets.
Re-checked orientation of oil ring gaps in both pistons (facing the pushrod tube side of the
cylinders) and replaced one piston pin circlip with a spare (the circlip was worn for about 25% of
its diameter where the piston pin had rubbed against it).
Replaced the cylinders on the engine casing and tightened the base M10 s/steel nuts with an
SW17 flat spanner.
Faced and chamfered edges of steering damper base cylinder in the lathe.
Removed and collected parts for chroming:
14 August 2008

Delivered the following parts to
working days (~ 29 Aug 2008):
o 2 x carburettor air pipes
o 1 x steering damper knob
o 1 x exhaust nut
o 2 x rear swingarm nuts
o 1 x front swingarm nut
o 1 x valve pushrod tube
TOTAL:
24 December 2013
African Electroplating for chroming – to be collected after 10 – 14
= R 130-00
= R 120-00
= R 35-00
= R 60-00
= R 10-00
= R 30-00
=R 385-00
Rev 1.1
46
16 August 2008

Fabricated spacer for steering damper knob from 25mm diameter s/steel, 10,0mm thick, 8mm
diameter bore, 4 holes threaded M4, countersunk and polished on the buff. Note that this spacer
is required for the steering damper knob to clear the handlebars.
24 August 2008





1.25 Hours (Total =255.75 hours)
Washed and brushed gearbox casing with BH38 and hot soapy water.
Cleaned up clutch pushrod tip in lathe – and again on 1 November 2008.
Cleaned thread for clutch cable retaining bolt with M6 tap.
Cleaned rust off another valve pushrod tube (for electroplating) in the lathe.
Sent e-mail to Bill Speight ordering:
o 1 x grommet for speedo cable at headlamp =
R10-00
o 1 x rubber plug for timing hole =
R10-00
o 2 x rubber plugs to fill holes in mudguard =
R 8-00
o 2 x rubber washer 30mm OD at headlight =
R 8-00
o Courier charge (pro rata)
R15-00
TOTAL incl Courier charge =
R51-00
27 August 2008

0 Hours (Total =255.75 hours)
Collected rubber parts from Bill Speight at Post Office. He provided 4 x rubber washers 30mm
OD for headlight mounting.
30 August 2008
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Fabricated M8 stud for rear mudguard, welded stud to mudguard.
Prepared rear mudguard, luggage carrier and tail light shell for painting
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
47
3 September 2008

Delivered the following parts plus 1 litre Black 2K paint and ½ litre 2K clear coat paint to Mike
Lester for spray painting:
o
Rear mudguard (two pieces)
o
Front mudguard
o
Tail light shell
o
Fuel tank
o
Luggage carrier
5 & 6 September 2008
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Collected electroplated parts from African Electroplating.
African Electroplating quoted R385 per exhaust header tube and R85 for the exhaust cross tube
for chroming. Also quoted R225 to chrome headlamp reflector (about same price to purchase
new reflector from Uli‟s)
Fitted chromed steering damper and handlebars – the s/steel spacer is required for the steering
damper to clear the handlebars since the R68 risers are higher than standard R50/2
Fitted chromed swing arm dome nuts
Wire-brushed rust off speedo cable gland, turned and faced outside edge, soaked in Hydrochloric
acid to remove internal rust, oiled. Replaced with s/steel fabricated part on 25 Sep 2008.
8 September 2008

Collected parts ordered from Uli‟s – paid E40-00 cash (including shipping pro rata).
15 September 2008

Collected sprayed body parts from Mike Lester (some minor issues – rear mudguard primer
showing through in one spot). He used Duco plus a clearcoat, NOT 2K.
20 - 21 September 2008
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Assembled rear mudguard parts – tail lamp housing, number plate bracket - using s/steel
hardware, new rubber lamp beading.
Inserted 3-core cable in rear mudguard channel.
Fabricated new M4 screw for number plate light terminal.
Terminated wires with crimped bootlace ferrules.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
48
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Wired tail lamp fitting (Grey = earth, Black = common, Red = stop light)
Fabricated s/steel M6 x 22 hex screw for speedo cable retainer. Faced hex head, centre-drilled
and drilled 1.5mm Φ hole through screw, necked down to about 5mm Φ for about 12mm.
Hung speedo cable up to lubricate with oil.
Spray painted speedo needle white
Fitted speedo chrome bezel
Fitted speedo to headlamp bucket
Fitted new rubber washers to headlamp bucket mounting bolts
Fitted speedo cable rubber grommet to headlamp bucket (removed on 28 Sep 2009)
Fitted fuel tank toolbox lid, greased hinge pins
Fitted weatherstrip to fuel tank toolbox lid
Fitted rubber knee pads to fuel tank
Fitted BMW badges to fuel tank
Fitted rubber gasket to headlamp glass
23 September 2008
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Fitted new carbon brushes to generator.
Missing bushing for ignition key – obtained from Jan Cornel on 26 Sep 2008.
Turned s/steel steering damper bolt, threaded M8.
24 September 2008
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Fitted rear brake pedal, bell crank, etc.
25 September 2008
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Machined new s/steel clutch cable bushing for gearbox mounting.
Shortened M6 speedo cable clamp screw (20 Sep 2008) to 16mm, to fit new bushing.
Fabricated another clutch lever pin from M6 capscrew to take Nylock nut.
Fabricated speedo cable bushing/gland out of stainless steel (304). Polished on buffing wheel.
26 September 2008
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
Visited Jan Cornel. Jan gave me a red/green lens, an old switch cover with spring, and a plastic
bush for the ignition key/switch – no charge.
Fitted spring to new ignition switch cover.
28 September 2008
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Fitted large rubber grommet (for headlight bucket) to speedo cable
Fitted red/green lens to headlight bucket (temp) – drilled 1mm dia holes and fitted spring wire.
29 September 2008
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Bought Black RTV silicon to fit red/green lens.
Bought plug spanner and reversible screwdriver.
3 October 2008

Refitted red/green lens using black RTV silicon and wire clip.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
49
4 October 2008
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Fabricated 2 x s/steel M8 castellated nuts for steering damper bolts (8mm thick).
Fabricated 1 x s/steel M8 castellated nut for rear brake bell crank bolt (9.5mm thick).
Fitted new s/steel castellated nuts and split pins to steering damper bolts and to rear brake bell
crank bolt.
Refitted speedo and fitted ignition switch chrome cover, lightly bent tabs.
Fitted headlight bucket to fork ears.
Fitted wiring harness to frame with black cable ties.
Fitted fuse holder (10A fuse) in battery positive cable using crimped terminals.
Fitted rear brake switch and connected it to wiring harness – used crimped bootlace ferrules.
Fitted 3-way connector block to frame using M3 s/steel screws and nuts.
Connected main wiring harness wires to 3-way connector block.
Fitted rear mudguard using s/steel bolts, nuts & washers.
Connected tail light wires to 3-way connector block using crimped bootlace ferrules.
Fitted kickstart lever rubber bumper to frame.
11 October 2008
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Visited Roly Tilman
o
Obtained some spares (2 x steel rims, 1 x alloy wheel complete, 2 x cable clips). Note: one
steel wheel rim was returned to Roly on 24 Nov 2008.
o
Ordered (telephonic) 2 x new s/steel mufflers from Jeff Talbot in Cape Town. Roly will bring
them back with him on 6 November 2008.
o
He has spare genuine BMW casing for dim/bright/horn switch – looking for switch portion.
o
Gave Roly a copy of my wiring diagram (laminated)
Fitted cable clips to frame.
12 October 2008
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Completed all wiring. Changed white wire to brown (headlight 31), fitted blue, yellow, red and
black wires in PVC sleeving for dim/bright/horn switch, connected to 4-way connector block in
headlamp.
Fitted ignition switch and main switch board. In headlamp bucket.
Fitted headlamp reflector, glass and trim ring.
Fitted front mudguard and chrome brace. Removed front wheel to fit washers and Nylock nuts.
Refitted front wheel.
Fitted both perches on handlebar, with Magura hand grips.
Updated wiring diagram.
Test fitted fuel tank and seat – took photographs. Removed fuel tank and seat for safe storage.
Inflated tyres to 170kPa front and 190kPa rear.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
50
17 October 2008
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Bought 2 x (short) rubber boots for plug caps, Blitz.
18 October 2008
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Cleaned all three wheel rims obtained from Roly Tilman
Re-torqued flywheel bolt.
Confirmed flywheel lateral runout = 0.2mm (t.i.r).
Bent locktab over flywheel nut.
Turned clutch centring mandrel from 25mm Φ aluminium bar.
Fitted clutch components using centring mandrel and a little Loctite on all 6 cap screws. Torqued
cap screws to 20Nm.
Fitted rubber stop for centre stand, using a bit of silicon grease.
Fitted new spark plug HT leads through rubber grommets into engine casing – used a bit of silicon
grease.
Fitted spark plug caps and boots to new HT leads.
19 October 2008
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Removed old input oil seal from gearbox and fitted new double lip Viton seal (30 x 40 x 7).
Cleaned outer surfaces with acetone and used a small amount of silicon gasket sealer on those
surfaces. Lubricated moving surfaces with assembly lube. Seal pushed in easily with my fingers
– fitted seal deeply so that both lips made contact with the input shaft journal.
Removed gear lever and old gear lever shaft seal. Seal = 24 x 15 x 7 Nitrile.
Turned a mandrel with which to correct the damaged gearbox casing around the gear lever seal.
Mild steel OD = 24mm, ID = 15mm, L = 25mm.
Heated gearbox casing and tapped bush over gear lever shaft. Cracked casing. Needed to have
the casing welded by Charlie Hamer, completed on 23 October 2008.
Notched 2 x 50mm lengths of 35mm OD steel pipe using 32mm Φ Starrett holesaw in drill press
for exhaust header crossover pipe. (Not used).
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
51
21 October 2008

Purchased ½ L Black and ½ L Clear 2K paint, Randburg Automotive Paints.
23 October 2008

Took gearbox to Charlie Hamer of Aero Tig for welding.
24 October 2008

Filed gearbox welding and fitted new double lip Nitrile gear lever shaft oil seal – used some gasket
sealer around edges.
25 October 2008
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
1 Hour (282.25 hours)
Removed old oil seal and fitted new double lip Nitrile oil seal behind kick-start lever – used some
gasket sealer around edges.
Buffed kick-start lever and gear lever before refitting them – greased cotter pins to prevent rust.
Fabricated large adjustable pin spanner as stay for gearbox output flange.
Tried to undo castellated nut on gearbox output shaft – unsuccessfully (broke Mannell tool!)
29 October 2008

0 Hours (282.25 hours)
Took 2 x steel wheel rims to Rian Emerich for sandblasting.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
52
1 November 2008
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
Turned a new extension sleeve for clutch pushrod = 8.3mm OD x 6mm ID x 10.5mm L, using
leaded free cutting steel.
Polished pushrod and cleaned up tapered end 60 degrees in the lathe.
2 November 2008
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Purchased 4 x screws for tank badges and spare drain plug, CMC
Jan Cornel used his BMW tools to loosen and remove castellated nut on gearbox output shaft, as
well as remove the output flange. Very tight, needed pneumatic impact wrench to loosen both
items.
Purchased gear lever rubber sleeve, as well as 2 x exhaust crush gaskets from Jan.
Cleaned up castellated nut (M14 x 1.5) in the lathe, OD = 21mm. There was no washer behind
the castellated nut.
Fitted rubber sleeve to gear lever.
Fitted 4 x new s/steel screws to tank badges.
Removed output shaft oil seal (hardened & brittle) = 36 x 54 x 7
5 November 2008
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Ordered 1 x 6203, 2 x 6204, 1 x 6302, 1 x 6303 ball bearings (all C3) from SKF.
Checked that there was no oil in the gearbox – drained a very small amount out.
Removed speedo gear and speedo cable s/steel sleeve.
Loosened and removed 7 x s/steel M6 nuts and washers from gearbox cover.
Removed neutral switch rubber cover, gear lever.
Heated gearbox in the oven for 15 minutes at 100 deg C.
Tapped gearbox cover off using a wood drift and hammer while pressing the kickstart lever down
a bit – tapped output shaft bearing down while tapping the cover off. Fairly easy.
Removed circlip and captive gear from gearbox cover and reheated it in the oven again for 15
minutes at 100 deg C.
Tapped input shaft 6203 bearing out of the cover easily with a wood drift and hammer.
Inspected gearbox components = some light rust on internal parts, including bearings. Otherwise,
the gears and other parts look remarkably good. The previous mechanic used only grey RTV
silicon gasket material on the cover joint without a paper gasket. Some paper gasket material
remained on the mating surface of the cover behind the kickstart gear. There was no sign of any
shims behind the input and lay shaft bearings on the cover side. Also missing the stop washer
that should be fitted over the spring on the input shaft. Woodruff key was sheared off on output
shaft taper.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
53
7 November 2008

Collected 1 x 6203, 2 x 6204, 1 x 6302, 1 x 6303 ball bearings (all 2Z / C3) from SKF.
8 November 2008
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Fabricated 40 x 5 angle iron bench vice-mounting bracket for gearbox
Fabricated castellated nut socket/driver from new 13mm Mastercraft deep wall impact socket
(ruined 2 x 3/16” end mills and one 24T Eclipse hacksaw blade!). Note that this driver will also fit
later M16 castellated nuts.
Cleaned thread of castellated nut with M14 x 1.5 tap.
Removed shields from the 5 x new SKF bearings.
9 November 2008
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Fabricated gearbox cover gasket using 0.4mm Flexoid.
Fabricated 2 x new M6 galvanised studs for gearbox cover. One has damaged threads when
fitting earth cable – to be replaced with s/steel next time around!
Removed old studs and fitted 2 x new M6 studs using Studlock.
10 November 2008
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
Confirmed with Jan Cornel that a thick flat washer must be placed behind gearbox output shaft
castellated nut.
Jan also confirmed he can supply gearbox input shaft stop washer and large shim washer.
11 November 2008
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
Collected s/steel exhaust silencers from Roly Tilman = very nice!
Ordered FAG 3203 C3 bearing from Barney at Bearing & Belting Supplies.
14 November 2008

FAG 3203 B TVH C3 bearing delivered COD. This bearing may need to be replaced with one that
uses a pressed steel cage, and also with a smaller contact angle (A).
15 November 2008
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Fabricated 2 x Tufnol heat-resistant spacers for carb manifolds.
Fabricated 2 x perch wedges, 18mm long, out of ¼” diameter silver steel, unhardened.
22 November 2008
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Collected two sandblasted wheel rims from Rian Emerich.
Wire-brushed both sandblasted wheel rims and coated with aerosol lubricant. Selected one rim to
retain and have electroplated.
Loosened M6 cap screws retaining the gearshift forks, heated end of case with a gas blowlamp
and removed the gear clusters.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
54
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Washed main gearbox case and cover with petrol and Reinol BH38, dried with compressed air,
and coated steel parts with aerosol lubricant.
Inspected gearbox parts: most of the bearings appear sound, but some may be too loose in their
housings. The input shaft bearing (closest to the splined side) shows signs of damage on it‟s
outer ring due to excessive axial play that caused it to rub against the lowest gear on the
intermediate shaft (to be expected since the input shaft was missing the stop washer and the
spacer shim). The output shaft (output flange end) bearing was rusted. Gears have very little
pitting, except for the drive gear at the splined end of the input shaft. The face of lowest gear on
the intermediate shaft has been worn smooth by the input shaft bearing face due to excessive
axial play from the lack of the stop washer and spacer shim. The lower gear select fork shows
more signs of wear than the upper fork. Some light rust on steel parts. Circlip on output shaft
worn. Woodruff key sheared off.
Removed old bearings from the three shafts using the 20T hydraulic press and the bearing
separator/puller combination.
Pressed the spring on the input shaft down using the 20T hydraulic press and a short piece of
water pipe with two cutouts to remove the wire clip.
Replaced all five bearings on the three shafts using the 20T hydraulic press and bits of water pipe.
Fabricated 2 x 8mm steel washers for M8 cap screws retaining the gear selector forks.
23 November 2008

Fabricated another gearbox cover gasket using Flexoid 0.4mm gasket paper.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
55
24 November 2008

Returned one sandblasted steel wheel rim and one (incorrect) handlebar to Roly Tilman.
25 November 2008
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Purchased 2 off 17 x 1 external circlips, one off 4 x 6.5 Woodruff key, JKM = R4-40.
Fitted new 17 x 1 circlip on gearbox output shaft.
Removed sheared-off Woodruff key from gearbox output shaft taper.
Ground-in gearbox output shaft taper to the output flange using fine grinding paste.
29 November 2008
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
Fabricated 3 x gearbox input shaft stop washers, 2 x 1.11mm thick and 1 x 1.92mm thick, all OD =
25mm and ID = 15mm.
Fabricated 1 x gearbox input shaft shim washer OD = 45mm, ID = 15mm, 1.20mm thick
30 November 2008

Measured gearbox shaft clusters to calculate endplay (using ½: square HSS bars as parallels):
Input shaft height above gasket (0.4mm), measured to top of 1.92mm stop washer
Distance to input shaft bearing seated in gearbox cover
Output shaft bearing height above gasket (0.4mm)
Distance to output shaft bearing recess seat in gearbox cover
Distance to intermediate shaft bearing recess seat in gearbox cover
1.15mm
2.28mm
14.27mm
14.88mm
13.02mm
Input shaft endplay = 2.28mm – 1.15mm = 1.13mm. Shim thickness required for endplay spec of
0.1mm = 1.0mm. (Either reduce thickness of stop washer to 1.72mm, or reduce thickness of
fabricated shim washer to 1.0mm).
Output shaft endplay = 14.88mm – 14.27mm = 0.61mm. Shim thickness required for endplay
spec of 0.1mm = 0.5mm. Note: existing shim washer = 0.32mm thick.
6 December 2008

Measured gearbox shaft clusters to calculate endplay (using ½” x 3/8” Starrett parallels and
Mitutoyo micrometer depth gauge (0.01mm) from Ivan):
Distance to input shaft bearing inner, seated in gearbox cover
Output shaft bearing height above gasket (0.4mm)
Distance to output shaft bearing recess seat in gearbox cover
Distance to intermediate shaft bearing recess seat in gearbox cover
Intermediate shaft bearing height above gasket (0.4mm)
1.31mm
0.52mm
2.40mm
14.0mm
14.77mm
12.99mm
12.30mm
Input shaft endplay = 2.40mm – 1.31mm = 1.10mm. Shim thickness required for endplay spec
of 0.1mm = 1.0mm. (Either reduce thickness of stop washer to 1.72mm, or reduce thickness of
fabricated shim washer to 1.0mm).
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
56
Output shaft endplay = 14.77mm – 14.0mm = 0.77mm. Shim thickness required for endplay
spec of 0.1mm = 0.67mm. Note: existing shim washer = 0.32mm thick.
Intermediate shaft endplay = 12.99 – 12.30 = 0.70mm. Require shim of 0.6mm to reduce
endplay to 0.1mm.
7 December 2008
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Gearbox - fitted a thin Aluminium shim washer to the lower limiting bolt to increase the over-shift
to ~ 1mm in 1st gear. The over-shift in 4th gear appears to be in spec (upper limiting bolt)
Purchased fabricated and electroplated exhaust headers with captive nuts from CMC.
9 December 2008

Fabricated 2 x eccentric bushes threaded M8, offset by 1mm for gear selector forks using silver
steel – adjustment range = 2mm.
10 December 2008
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Milled 16mm hex on ends of gear selector eccentric bushes, stamped bushes and selector forks
“A” and “B” respectively (1 hour labour).
Checked “twist” of lower (“B”) selector fork by inserting a rod in the bush mounting and placing the
rod in precision v-blocks on a surface plate, then measure the slight offset of the hardened
surfaces to precision parallels. Maximum “twist” was less than 0.4mm, using a feeler gauge.
Assembled selector forks in gearbox and adjusted eccentric bushes until the selector rings were
central between the gears. Marked the eccentric bushes and the respective selector forks with a
file.
11 December 2008
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Moved the eccentric bushes to alternative positions to move the selector forks closer to the gear
selector cam plate and marked the bushes with two centre punch pricks.
Removed the silver steel eccentric bushes, coated them with liquid soap, heated to cherry red
(non-magnetic) and quenched in a bucket of cold water (“glass-hard”).
Polished the bearing surfaces of the eccentric bushes and tempered them to “blue”, re-polished
the bearing surfaces and reinstalled them in the gearbox, resulting in the selector forks being
precisely in the centre between the two gears, and slightly offset toward the gear selector cam
plate. Very successful modification!
There may be some difficulty to fit the input shaft in its bearing seat – the input gear just catches
on the hex head of the new lower eccentric bush. However, it is probably possible to successfully
fit the input shaft with some manipulation of the loose 3rd/4th gear selector fork.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
57
13 December 2008

Fabricated another gearbox cover gasket using 0.4mm Flexoid gasket paper.
14 December 2008
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Assembled all 3 shafts, selector forks, etc in gearbox casing. Heated casing with gas blowlamp,
and inserted a 3 shafts together with the selector forks.
Measured output shaft and intermediate shaft projections above case and gasket (0.4mm) again.
15 December 2008
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Visited Jan Cornel:
o
Compared his stop washer and shim washer for gearbox input shaft with my fabricated
items. Need to reduce OD of stop washer and thickness.
o
Jan checked that gear selector forks are in the middle between the gears, and also checked
that there is a small gap between the selector disk and the gears when selected.
o
Jan says I can replace the Woodruff key in the output shaft – remember to clean and dry the
mating surfaces before assembling them.
o
He also checked the speedo drive gears – said they should be OK.
o
Purchased 22mm Φ handlebar from Jan that he has recently had electroplated – I paid for
the electroplating = R250.
o
Jan‟s clutch pushrods are longer than mine – perhaps because my clutch is the later
version!
Tightened M8 gear selector fork cap screws with 6mm hex socket.
Turned down fabricated stop washer for gearbox input shaft – reduced OD as well as thickness to
1.75mm.
Pressed a joggle in fabricated input shaft spacer shim to match sample from Jan Cornel.
Measured shim thickness after flattening on sandpaper= 1.17mm.
Measured distance from gasket on gearbox casing to newly thinned stop washer = 1.10mm.
Distance to input shaft bearing inner, seated in gearbox cover


1.10mm
2.40mm
Input shaft endplay = 2.40mm – 1.10mm = 1.30mm. Shim thickness required to achieve 0.1mm
endplay = 1.20mm. Fabricated shim of 1.17mm thick is almost perfect! Performed a quick check
on projection of both stop washer and shim washer above gasket on gearbox casing = 2.35mm,
so endplay = 2.40mm – 2.35mm = 0.05mm = good enough!
Measured output shaft and intermediate shaft projections above case and gasket (0.4mm) again.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
58
16 December 2008
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Fitted output shaft flange oil seal to gearbox cover – 1mm proud, spring facing outside cover.
Cleaned up output shaft flange in the lathe 4-jaw chuck.
Cleaned M8 x 1 threads in output shaft flange and associated 12-point bolts.
Fabricated new thinner washer for output shaft flange castellated nut – bored to fit over taper.
Removed old handlebar and risers.
Filed clutch hand lever for better fit in perch.
Cut 2 x shim washers out of tinplate 0.6mm thick, OD = 47mm and OD = 40mm.
Spread a thin layer of Hylomar on the gearbox casing and placed the gasket on top.
Heated the gearbox cover with the gas blowlamp.
Placed all three shim washers in the recesses in the gearbox casing using a bit of grease to hold
them in place.
While holding the kickstart lever down a bit, tapped the gearbox cover on the gearbox shafts and
casing using a rubber mallet, fitted flat washers and M6 nuts, and tightened the nuts evenly.
Checked that the gearbox shafts were not binding while tightening the cover in place.
Cleaned the output shaft and flange mating tapers with acetone, and smeared a bit of assembly
lube on the flange oil seal surface.
Placed the gearbox output flange on the output shaft taper, fitted a flat washer and the castellated
nut. Note: did NOT fit a (new) Woodruff key.
Tightened castellated nut to 120 Nm using a torque wrench.
Fitted speedo drive gear and speedo cable flange collar, fitted M6 s/steel vent bolt.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
59
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Fitted clutch operating thrust washer components, pushrod and clutch lever.
Fitted plastic cap over neutral switch.
Filled gearbox with 800mL Shell Rotella SAE 40 oil (to bottom of threads in filler hole)
Checked that the gearshift works satisfactorily though all four gears up & down.
Removed gear lever for storage.
Gearbox finally completed!
21 December 2008
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Drained SAE 40 oil from final drive.
Filled final drive with Castrol HypoyB SAE90 EP (GL4) oil to bottom of filler plug threads.
Placed rubber bellows over driveshaft flange (on frame).
Fabricated 2 x new engine mounting spacers from Aluminium, OD = 27mm, ID = 12.5mm,
t = 8.8mm (rust proof!).
Covered frame in layers of newspaper to protect paintwork.
Lifted engine into frame – used upside down bucket under sump for support.
Greased gearbox input splines with MS2 grease.
Lifted gearbox into frame behind engine, lightly bolted to engine.
Greased engine mounting bolts and inserted through spacers, footrests, etc.
Tried to assemble gear lever onto gearbox shaft, but there was no space to fit the cotter pin.
Removed rear engine mounting bolt, placed bottle jack under sump and tried to lift gearbox. Bike
toppled over and fortunately there was only a light dent on the rear mudguard which would
be hidden by the dual seat.
Lifted bike back onto centre stand and used a broomstick to lever the rear of the gearbox up to
enable fitment of the gear lever cotter pin. Tightened a new Nylock s/steel M6 nut on cotter pin.
Refitted rear engine mounting bolt through spacer and footrests, etc. Tightened nuts.
Assembled top engine stay and tightened M8 s/steel bolts and nuts.
Aligned kickstart rubber stop on frame and tightened M5 bolt and nut.
Tightened gearbox mounting bolts.
Filled engine with 2L Shell Rotella SAE40 oil.
22 December 2008
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
Cleaned M12 threads in frame and fitted passenger footrests with M12 MS bolts.
Fitted valve pushrods with “cracked” ends towards camshaft – used assembly lube on ends.
Fitted cylinder heads – checked for 0.1mm rocker axial play. Note: this is far too much, the
spec = 0.01mm! Corrected on 24 December 2008.
Torqued cylinder heads to 35 Nm in two stages, oiled threads on head bolts.
Set valve clearances to inlet = 0.15mm and exhaust = 0.20mm.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
60
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Oiled rocker shaft assemblies and fitted tappet covers with new gaskets, dry surfaces.
Fitted spark plugs and loosely fitted new exhaust headers and s/steel silencers.
Fitted new handlebar using existing risers – need to shim risers to close tighter on handlebar.
Connected wire to neutral indicator switch.
Connected ground wire to gearbox stud (this “new” stud appears to be stripped!)
Routed main engine wires through engine casing.
Allocated 2 x s/steel M8 bolts, washers and Nylock nuts for exhaust silencer hangers.
Replaced thick spring washers on engine mounting bolts with thin s/steel flat washers.
Thinned two M12 x 1.5 Nylock nuts in the lathe for rear engine mounting bolt.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
61
24 December 2008
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Fitted 12-point M8 x 1 bolts to driveshaft flange (without spring washers), then had to remove
them because they were scraping against the gearbox cover.
Refitted the four 12-point M8 x 1 bolts using Loctite 243 and new spring washers. Confirmed no
more scraping against gearbox cover.
Fitted hose clamps to driveshaft rubber bellows.
Filled driveshaft housing with 200mL Castrol HypoyB SAE90 (GL4) gear oil.
Removed tappet covers and loosened cylinder head bolts to correct rocker shaft axial play.
Removed valve rocker shafts and adjusted them all to about zero axial free play, but free
movement (to meet the spec of 0.01mm axial play).
Refitted valve rocker shafts and torqued cylinder head bolts to 35 Nm in 3 stages.
Reset valve clearances to inlet = 0.15mm and exhaust = 0.20mm.
Oiled valve rockers and refitted tappet covers, dry surfaces.
26 December 2008
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Fitted generator.
Fitted magneto with the rotor mark aligned with the stator mark when the flywheel is on the “S”
mark.
Connected wiring to generator and magneto, using crimped terminals.
Fabricated a new steel screw for the LHS sparkplug wire terminal on the magneto = 2BA (should
be M4.5). Ran a 2BA tap through the terminal.
Connected sparkplug leads to magneto using crimped terminals.
Checked that ignition switch places an earth on the magneto wire when pulled out – mine did not.
The contacts on the ignition switch PC board needed to be bent to connect to earth. This
was corrected on 31 January 2011.
Shimmed handlebar in risers borrowed from Jan Cornel.
27 December 2008
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Lubricated clutch and front brake cables.
Fitted clutch cable. Machined handlebar end down to fit into adjuster.
Fitted front brake cable. Removed front wheel twice to reposition brake levers. Brake levers need
to be 205mm apart (c – c) to take up cable slack.
Fitted a new s/steel M6 bolt, spring washer and nut to the rear brake lever.
Fabricated 2 x M8 x 1 s/steel nuts.
Fitted one M8 x 1 s/steel nut to front axle pinch bolt.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
62
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Fitted oiled speedometer cable.
Removed lower fuel tank bracket and re-bent locating tab, filed holes, and re-fitted.
Fitted fuel tank and fuel cap.
Fitted fuel tap to fuel tank, using new red fibre washers.
Adjusted carburetor lever arms to 22mm from flange with the needle valve closed. Tab had
broken off lever arm on RHS carb – to be fabricated and soldered on to lever arm (see 28 Dec
2008).
Drilled and tapped (M5) RHS carburettor float chamber cover retainer holes (x 2) deeper.
Slotted 4 x s/steel M5 hex head screws for float chamber covers. Fitted a longer hex screw to
RHS carb float chamber cover to compensate for stripped threads. On 18 Jan 2009, fitted M5
Helicoil insert.
Fitted carburettors with new gaskets, spacers, s/steel M8 nuts and wavy washers.
Fitted carburettor tubes and rubbers.
Fitted fuel hoses to fuel tank, carburettors.
Fitted air filter housing. Need a thicker o-ring for air filter element.
Oiled throttle cables. They are too short and have too little free length – modified one cable to
attain 105mm free length (to inside of nipple). Sheath/outer length = 900mm.
Fitted front engine cover (mag/gen cover)
28 December 2008
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Fabricated a new brass tab for float lever of RHS carburettor, soldered in place.
29 December 2008
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Telephonically confirmed cable lengths with Jan Cornel.
Modified one throttle cable to result in 110mm free length and 1010mm overall length (both
measure to insides of small nipples).
Successfully fitted modified throttle cable to RHS carburettor and throttle grip.
30 December 2008
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Wired up Horn/Dim/Bright switch and attached to handlebar.
Checked with multimeter that neutral indicator switch earths when gear selector is in neutral.
Connected 6V battery briefly. Generator light came on for a short while, then went out. Neutral
indicator light did not come on.
31 December 2008
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Rotated driveshaft rubber boot and retightened clamps to cure oil leak. There appears to be a
small tear on the seam of the rubber boot close to the 70mm end.
Fitted ¼” diameter fuel hose to bottom of fuel tank.
Charged 6V battery and used it to check brake light – was “on” all the time. Turned brake switch
adjuster to ensure that brake light is “off” until the brake pedal is pushed down.
5 January 2009
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Took CMC exhaust headers to Honeydew Exhausts, Lazer Park. Bent using hydraulic ram, but
kinked the top. To repair, I would need to cut the pipes off, weld together again, bend and then
weld the T-pieces on.
Bought 2m of inner cable and 4 x end caps from Eagle Canyon Cycle shop.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
63
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Anropa want more than R100 per throttle cable to make up.
6 January 2009
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Bought & fitted 2 x M12 x 30 s/steel bolts for passenger foot pegs, JKM.
Drilled threaded hole for speedo cable retaining bolt to 6.2mm Φ. Tapped hole with Recoil tap
and fitted Recoil M6 thread insert (s/steel).
Fabricated a new (shorter) M6 s/steel retaining bolt with a 1.5mm Φ breather hole.
7 January 2009
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Fabricated 2 x 3.2mm Φ x 6mm L and 2 x 3.2mm Φ x 6.5mm L brass nipples for throttle cables
with 1.7mm Φ holes drilled through. Cable inners are 1.5mm Φ.
Fabricated 2 x 6.35mm OD x 5mm ID (for 8.5mm) x 10mm long stainless steel cable end caps
with 1.8mm Φ holes through the closed ends.
Fabricated one throttle cable using the outer from one cable and the inner from another surplus
cable to result in outer length = 900mm, free length = 110mm. I did try 115mm free length, but
there was more than 5mm slack, even with the throttle gear moved by one tooth. Sweated cable
nipples on with solder.
8 January 2009
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Jan gave me 20 cable end caps and 4 nipples. He confirmed throttle cable length he gave me
was total length including nipples. This makes sense as it results in a free length of around
110mm.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
64
9 January 2009
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Fabricated 2 more 6.35mm OD x 5mm ID (for 8.5mm) x 10mm long stainless steel cable end caps
with 2.0mm Φ holes through the closed ends.
Fabricated another throttle cable as before.
Lubricated cables with oil.
10 - 11 January 2009
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Fitted throttle cables.
Flushed the fuel tank with petrol.
Fuel petcock leaked, so removed and dismantled petcock. Old cork has shrunk, dried out.
Scraped all the old cork out of the body of the petcock and cleaned the bore.
Cleaned up some pitting of the pintle of the fuel petcock in the lathe using file and emery paper.
Purchased a sheet of 3.2mm cork from Wizard Midas.
Made a paper template 50.0mm x 26.0mm to position the holes – join in the lining must be on the
side (horizontal). Punched holes in the template to line up with the holes in the petcock body.
Cut cork to rectangle shape 50.0mm x 26mm. Punched 4 x 8mm Φ holes using the template.
Greased the inside of the petcock housing as well as the cork gasket with Silicon grease and
inserted with the join on the side so that the holes line up.
Pressed the pintle and handle into the cork-lined petcock housing, using the bench vice.
Recrimped the body of the petcock over the pintle using a small punch.
Checked that the holes are clear, and that the tap seals.
Refitted the petcock to the fuel tank.
Cut exhaust headers to suit s/steel silencers.
Fitted exhaust system temporarily.
Fitted seat.
Refitted fuel tank and hoses.
17 January 2009
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Tested neutral indicator lamp = faulty (6V 2W).
Purchased 1 x 6V 3W lamp = R8-00, and 2 x in-line fuel filters = R30-00 Randburg Motorcycle.
Replaced neutral indicator lamp with 6V 2W lamp from parking light and fitted new 3W lamp in
parking light fitting.
Cut fuel hoses and fitted new in-line fuel filters.
18 January 2009
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Fitted M5 Helicoil insert in RHS carb float chamber. Fitted shorter M5 s/steel bolt.
Removed wheel bearings from Roly Tilman alloy wheel. Inner bearing = FAG, outer = SKF, both
in excellent condition. Top hat spacer needs to be polished up, and outer oil seal was hard as a
rock. Requires new oil seals 25 x 35 x 7, and 25 x 38 x 7. Checked bearing play and wedding
band spacer needs to be lapped to reduce the play. Filled cavity in wheel with newspaper in
preparation for sand and bead blasting.
20 January 2009
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Jan Cornel purchased a battery for me (B49-6) from his local Battery Centre – I must collect from
him (no acid).
Jan Cornel says he has had a lot of trouble with ignition points from Uli‟s lately.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
65
23 January 2009
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Disconnected front brake cable.
Removed front wheel, removed front wheel bearings, and stripped brake drum.
Prepared hub and brake backing plate for bead blasting.
24 January 2009
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Removed rear wheel, removed rear wheel bearings.
Prepared rear wheel and hub for bead blasting.
Rian Emerich bead blasted front wheel, rear wheel, front brake plate and Roly‟s wheel = ¾ hours.
Washed and cleaned all three wheels and front brake backing plate to get rid of all traces of glass
beads. Sprayed steel and iron surfaces with Q20 to prevent rusting.
Fabricated a new (BMS) top hat spacer LHS for the rear wheel = 20mm bore, 25mm OD sealing
surface and 30mm Φ collar, collar thickness = 1.5mm and total height of spacer = 14mm.
Faced and cleaned the Roly Tilman wheel hub seal retainer. Note that the original rear wheel hub
seal retainer (that was previously fitted with a 24 x 35 x 7 oil seal) has a bore of 35.5mm. The
new 25 x 35 x 7 metal seal is a very loose fit in this retainer. I will use the Roly Tilman wheel hub
seal retainer fitted with a new SB2 25 x 35 x 7, single lip oil seal.
Measured thickness of brake drums:
o Front wheel = 6.0mm
o Rear wheel = 7.0mm
o Roly wheel = 7.5mm
Measured brake drum diameters:
o Front wheel = 203mm
o Rear wheel = 200.5mm
o Roly wheel = 200.5mm
Noted that spokes on (incorrect) front wheel cross with lots of space on one side of the wheel, but
are touching on the other side. Also, some spokes appear to be bent.
It may be preferable to use the Roly Tilman wheel and hub for the front wheel, with new spokes.
The only other decision required is whether to use a steel rim or an alloy rim.
26 - 27 January 2009
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Removed spokes from Roly Tilman wheel. All the spokes are rusted and pitted.
Measured rim/hub offsets:
o Front wheel = 11.5mm (way too much!)
o Rear wheel = 7.0 – 7.5mm
o Roly wheel = 6.5 – 7.0mm
Cleaned M4 threads in all the nipples with an M4 tap. Some nipples should be replaced.
Polished the outer surfaces of the Roly Tilman alloy rim with Autosol. Note that this rim is marked
“Akront”, and does not have the dents in the rim.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
66
29 January 2009
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Went to Jan Cornel:
o
Returned his handlebar risers.
o
Bought 6V 3W globe and 2 x cable nipples
o
Collected B49 battery.
o
Took Roly brake hub and front wheel brake backing plate with brake shoes to Hercules
Brake and Clutch for brake relining and drum skimming. Jan will collect on Friday.
o
Jan also asked me to turn 2 x s/steel washers, OD = 26mm
o
Jan says exhaust clamps & brackets not required
o
Jan says wheel offset = 5mm
Filled B49 battery with about 0,5L battery acid.
30 January 2009
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Fabricated 6 x s/steel washers (OD = 25mm, ID = 10.5mm, t = 3mm) and buffed them. Two each
are for Mike Lester and for Jan Cornel, and two are spares.
31 January 2009
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Charged battery @ 0.8A for 5 hours, to 6.76V fully charged.
Polished Akront alloy rim on the buffing wheel and by hand with Autosol.
Polished rear wheel BMW alloy rim by hand with Autosol.
Removed tyre and tube from front wheel (steel rim).
Stripped spokes from front wheel – note that the steel rim is incorrect for the bike (British).
Straightened the 40 front wheel spokes.
Wire brushed the spoke threads and cleaned them up with an M4 die.
1 February 2009
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Bought another rubber driveshaft boot from CMC.
Bought 2 x carb pipes from CMC – one is for BMW R60/2.
Saw Mike Lester at CMC, gave him 2 x s/steel washers for steering top plate mounting.
Collected brake drum and relined brake shoes from Jan Cornel.
Gave Jan Cornel 2 x s/steel washers for steering plate mounting.
Jan Cornel gave me a piece of rubber for the battery tray.
Cleaned about 30 Tilman spokes using the wire wheel.
Cleaned threads of 20 selected Tilman spokes with M4 die nut.
Cleaned threads of 30 front wheel nipples with M4 tap.
Selected 40 spokes and nipples for re-chroming, 30 from original front wheel.
2 February 2009
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Took the following items to Sheffield Electroplating for re-chroming –two weeks lead time:
o One steel wheel rim = R220 +VAT
o 40 x spokes and nipples = R400 + VAT
o 1 x aircleaner housing = R140 + VAT
o 2 x hubcaps = R280 + VAT
Christine cautioned that some spokes may be thinner, especially those that are half chromed.
The acid will eat away the chrome, but also the steel.
Sheffield quoted R380 to chrome both exhaust header pipes.
Measured Roly brake drum after skimming. Thickness = 6.85mm, diameter = 201mm.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
67
3 February 2009
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Ordered 40 x spokes and nipples from Uli‟s.
Purchased 2 off 25 x 35 x 6 double lip oil seals from BMG
5 February 2009
 Purchased 3.50 x 18” Viper inner tube and rim tape from Randburg Motorcycles.
 Purchased 2 off 5.33 x 56.52mm O-rings from BMG (too small cross-section)
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6 February 2009
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Purchased 6mm x 55mm O-ring from BMG.
7 February 2009
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Removed front brake cable and filed off the crimped steel nipple from the handle bar end.
Turned a new brass nipple holder that fits in the brake lever = 8mm OD and 9mm long. Through
hole = 4mm ID and recess = 6mm ID.
Turned a new s/steel cable guide sleeve for the brake end of the cable to replace rust-pitted steel
fitting = 9mm OD, stepped to 6mm OD, with a 2.5mm ID through-hole, and a recess = 6.2mm ID.
Lengths the same as sample.
Fitted end caps to the cable outer sheath and soldered one of Jan Cornel‟s brass nipples on the
end of the cable. Note that cable outer length = 1000mm (spec = 1095mm)
8 February 2009
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Washed front brake backing plate in hot water and soap.
Fabricated s/steel washer for front brake adjuster (ID = 8mm).
Fabricated M8 x 1 s/steel nut (13mm AF) for front brake adjuster, as well as one spare M8 x 1 nut.
Assembled front brakes.
Fabricated a s/steel washer for front axle.
14 February 2009
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Polished Akront alloy rim on the buffing wheel and by hand with Autosol, again.
16 February 2009
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Collected set of 40 spokes (from Uli‟s) from Thomas Schmidt of R&S.
Discovered that the spokes are incorrect = too short at 120mm. Arranged to return spokes to
Thomas Schmidt.
17 February 2009
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Replaced hose clamps for driveshaft rubber bellows with two BMW clamps obtained from Jean of
House of BM.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
68
18 February 2009
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Returned incorrect spoke set to Uli‟s..
Sent e-mail to Uli requesting confirmation of the correct part number for 140mm x M4 spokes.
20 February 2009
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Collected chromed parts from Sheffield.
Fitted air filter assembly. Had to remove the thin, large diameter O-ring between the dome and
the base to ensure that the air filter sits tight between the upper and lower O-rings.
Idle air screws appear to be a loose fit in the carb bodies. Initial idle mix setting is 2 turns out.
Unusual thread = M7 x 0.75
21 February 2009
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Washed and steel brushed new front hub (ex Roly).
Started lacing front wheel using hub ex Roly and Akront alloy rim ex Roly. To ensure the correct
offset, I placed 6.5mm thick spacers under the rim with the hub brake-side down. Holes on the
Akront rim are larger diameter than the nipples.
So far, 7 x re-chromed spokes are unserviceable due to increased nipple thread diameter – the
spokes pull straight through the threaded nipples. Obviously, Sheffield did not protect the nipple
threads from the Hydrochloric acid (HCl attacks the zinc in the brass aggressively!)
Replaced unserviceable spokes and nipples with the set of ten best spokes and nipples that I did
not send for re-chroming. Need to purchase 30 more spokes and nipples from Uli‟s.
24 February 2009
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Holger at Uli‟s telephonically confirmed that no e-mails had been received from me (possibly in
SPAM box) and that their correct part number for 140mm x M4 spokes & nipples is 6044, and that
they will exchange spokes and nipples with part number 21044.
13 March 2009
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Collected 70 x spokes & nipples from Casper.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
69
14 March 2009
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Removed tyre and tube from rear wheel.
Removed spokes and cleaned masking tape from wheel well.
Buffed BMW OEM alloy rim and polished with Autosol.
Dismantled wheel using Akront rim and re-chromed spokes.
Using the ex-Roly Tilman hub with the skimmed brake drum and the BMW alloy rim (ex rear
wheel), laced front wheel with 30 x new spokes and nipples from Uli‟s and 10 old spokes and
nipples.
Centred hub in rim using a rule to within 0.5 mm, with uniform offset of about 6.5mm.
15 March 2009
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Bought aluminium dome nut for rear swingarm from Piston Ring Swap Meet.
16 March 2009
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Had rear brake shoes fitted with new bonded linings and brake drum skimmed, at CBF in Strijdom
Park (same day service). They appear to have bruised the bearing seat on the opposite side to
the brake drum and the skimmed surface is ridged – looks like chatter. Brake shoes have been
sand-blasted, one lining is too narrow for the shoe.
Measured rear brake drum diameter after skimming = 201mm.
Wire-brushed rear brake shoes by hand.
19 March 2009
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Laced rear wheel using chromed steel rim and 40 new spokes and nipples from Uli‟s.
Refitted newly bonded brake shoes to rear hub.
Centred hub in rim using a steel rule to within 0.5 mm, with uniform offset of about 6.5mm.
21 March 2009
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Tightened spokes on both front & rear wheels using spoke wrench.
Fitted bearing assemblies to both wheels.
Adjusted front brake adjuster to suit new brake shoes and the skimmed brake drum.
27 March 2009
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Mounted rear wheel on bike and measured runout with a dial indicator as follows:
o
Lateral = 0.2mm – 1mm = 0.8mm.
o
Radial = 1mm – 3mm = 2mm
28 March 2009
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Purchased rim tape from Randburg Motorcycles.
Fabricated spoke wrench from 12mm diameter MS bar 75mm long. Milled 5.75mm slot, knurled
handle. (This tool was too weak and was re-made using 13mm hex bar – see 29 Mar 2009. This
tool also broke and was remade using 16mm Φ EN8 – see 2 Oct 2010).
Tightened spokes and adjusted rear wheel runout as follows:
o
Lateral = 0.8mm
o
Radial = 1mm
Wheel offset = 6.5mm – 7.0 mm
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
70
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Fitted rim tape, new tube and tyre to rear wheel, inflated to 180kPa.
Fitted inner and outer oil seals to rear wheel hub, and fitted hubcap.
Removed and displaced rear brake lever on hub by one spline, re-fitted lever. Lever is now closer
to a right angle when foot brake lever is actuated.
Greased drive splines and re-fitted rear wheel, assembled rear mudguard.
29 March 2009
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Fabricated another spoke wrench from 13mm hex MS bar 75mm long. Milled 5.75mm slot,
knurled handle.
Tightened spokes and adjusted front wheel runout as follows:
o
Lateral = 0.5mm
o
Radial = 0.8mm
o
Wheel offset = 6.0mm – 6.5mm
Fitted rim tape, new tube and tyre to front wheel, inflated to 180kPa.
Fitted inner and outer oil seals to front wheel hub, and fitted hubcap.
Re-fitted front wheel to bike.
Removed and displaced rear brake lever on front hub by a few splines to result in a distance
between levers of about 190mm, re-fitted lever. Re-fitted front brake cable and adjusted free-play.
7 April 2009
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Fabricated a new adjuster nut for front brake lever using 10mm AF hex s/steel, turned down to
9.8mm Φ for a distance and drilled and tapped M6 x 1. Milled half-moon shape in the end of the
nut using a 10mm end mill.
Fitted the new s/steel nut to the front brake cable, and adjusted front brake free play.
18 April 2009

Fabricated 2 x stainless steel special nuts for generator front cover, using 16mm Φ bar, turned
down to 14mm Φ for circular collar (2,5mm wide), then down to 10mm Φ for main body. Turned a
recess for the retaining wire clip at the end of the 10mm Φ shank. Drilled 5mm Φ, and threaded
M6 x 1 and milled 10mm AF hex on ends.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
71
25 April 2009
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Tightened exhaust manifold nuts with a “C” spanner.
Removed the generator front cover.
Set contact breaker points gap to 0.4mm. (The base plate was loose and rotated, so I had to
tighten the screws holding the base plate). To tighten the base plate I had to remove the advance
mechanism. Replaced slotted M4 screw on contact breaker base plate
Turned engine to align “S” mark with the mark on the crankcase. Loosened the two nuts holding
the magneto base plate and rotated the base plate until the scribed line on the rotating magnet
lined up with the bottom of the “V” notch on the brass base plate.
Disconnected the coil wire from the contact breaker points and clipped leads for a test lamp
across the breaker points and a 12V battery. Set the static ignition timing by rotating the points
base such that the test lamp extinguishes just as the “S” mark aligns with the mark on the
crankcase as the engine is turned slowly. I rotated the contact breaker base plate as far
clockwise as possible, and then had to widen the contact breaker points gap a slight amount
(0.45mm) to get the static ignition timing spot on. Note that rotation of the contact breaker base
plate requires removal of the advance mechanism to get to the base plate screws.
Reconnected the coil wire to the contact breaker points and re-fitted the generator front cover.
27 April 2009
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Pumped tyres = 200kPa front and rear.
Loosened LHS float cover and removed LHS carb float.
Unsoldered old piano wire from float, bent new piano wire (0.8mm) to fit, and soldered onto float.
Filled LHS float bowl with petrol and refitted float cover.
Loosened RHS float cover and removed float (was in upside down) and filled float chamber with
petrol. Refitted float cover.
Fitted battery. Checked that all electrical circuits are working.
Tried to start „bike – no joy. Checked for spark = none at plugs. Measured resistance of plug
wires and found that spark plug caps have internal resistance of 5k ohms. Removed spark plug
caps and attached pieces of wire between plug leads and spark plugs. Verified that there is a
weak spark.
Removed generator front cover and removed condenser to use as a sample for a new one.
Applied some Shell Retinax HD grease to ignition points cam. Refitted front generator cover.
Removed front wheel to access surface rust under the fixing bolt for the fender bow. Removed
surface rust and coated with paste wax before refitting bolt and washer. Refitted front wheel.
30 April 2009

Purchased new Echlin EP258 condensor from Blitz Motor Spares.
1 May 2009

Fitted new Echlin EP258 condensor. Tried to start „bike – no joy!
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
72
2 May 2009
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Fitted temporary spark plug caps (twisted wire) and managed to start the „bike for the first
time!!! It ran until the fuel in the float chambers ran out. The ignition cutout still does not work
(earthing of the magneto).
One potential problem observed was that the nose of the camshaft (axis for the magneto
advance mechanism) is running out of true by a substantial amount. The effect of this on
the ignition timing will need to be verified with a timing light. (Not much!)
The centre stand is inhibited from rising to its stop position by the LHS exhaust silencer.
The problem is not the silencer, but the LHS header pipe that does not fit properly – catching on
the frame at the front engine mounting point, in the way of the gear shift lever, does not mate well
with the balance tube.
3 May 2009
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Visited CMC, bought throttle cable perch gear cover. Obtained 1 x 6V 2W lamp, 1 x 6V 3W lamp,
1 x ignition condenser, 1 x magneto advance retaining bolt. Bob Harpin to scan Clymer Workshop
manual for R50/2, as well as the Haynes Twins Workshop manual for /5/6/7s.
Visited Jan Cornel, obtained 9mm advance spring.
Fabricated a points setting tool (17.5mm OD, 12mm ID, leaded free-cutting mild steel).
Confirmed points setting = 0.45mm.
Checked advance mechanism – both centrifugal weights appear to be firmly sprung in the rest
position.
Removed ignition points baseplate, cleaned in Benzine and reversed felt on rubbing block so that
the clean, unworn side rubs against the points cam – attached with small Aluminium pop rivet.
Elongated points baseplate mounting holes with a round file to obtain more advance.
Filed stationary side of ignition points contact flat with diamond file, and fitted new Bosch moving
contact arm.
Refitted baseplate and points. Set points gap to 0.4mm using my new points gap setting tool.
This resulted in static ignition timing about 10mm retarded from the “S” mark, so the points gap
was reset to 0.45mm to result in timing spot-on the “S” mark. However, there is now no room for
further advancing the ignition timing unless I elongate the base plate mounting holes some more,
or widen the points gap to 0.5mm. I also tried to see if the nose of the magneto rotor is out of true
by checking the points gap using the new tool and rotating the engine. If it was out, it was almost
impossible to measure with a feeler gauge. I will try with a dial indicator later.
5 May 2009


0.5 Hours (Total = 395.75 hours
Drove to NGK at Jet Park to collect 2 x LZFH spark plugs caps (as free samples) from Giles
Palmer, Technical Manager.
Fitted new NGK spark plug caps.
9 May 2009


Connected magneto and condenser wires to ignition points, cleaned voltage regulator contacts,
and checked generator brushes (they were only contacting the commutator in a very small area –
need to bed in properly).
Started the „bike and checked dynamic timing with inductive pick-up timing light (separate 12V
battery). At idle speed, the timing marks are aligned with the “S” mark, and as speed is increased
the marks align with the “F” mark, but also move beyond the “F” mark at higher revs. The
centrifugal advance springs will need to be adjusted to limit the advance to the “F” mark. At idle
speed there appear to be two separate timing marks about 6mm apart. This differential timing is
small enough not to be concerned about.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
73
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
The generator light now extinguishes at speed above idle, and the charging system appears to be
operating correctly.
Refitted front generator cover.
Oil leaking from RHS cylinder/head.
10 May 2009




Removed RHS tappet cover, cleaned gasket mating surfaces and applied a thin layer of Hylomar
along the bottom face of the cylinder head. Refitted the tappet cover. There were a few metal
particles in the residual oil in the tappet cover – probably left over from the machining and
installation process. (Still leaking oil, from both cylinder heads!)
Removed the centrifugal advance mechanism and bent the stop spring to limit the maximum
advance. Refitted the centrifugal advance mechanism.
Swapped the spark plug leads on the magneto coil.
Started the „bike – first kick! Checked timing at idle with timing light = spot on, and still two lines
about 6mm apart. Didn‟t rev high enough to get to the “F” mark (it may be limiting before it gets to
the “F” mark).
14/15 May 2009


0.0 Hours Total = 397.75 hours)
Surmised (wrongly!) that the oil is leaking from the cylinder head junction because the cylinder
heads must have been skimmed in the past, allowing the ridge on the cylinder to make contact
with the depression in the cylinder head. Jan Cornel confirmed that there needs to be a small gap
between the cylinder ridge and the head, and that the gasket needs to form the primary seal. He
suggested that the cylinders be removed and the ridge machined down to suit.
David Cain at MPPE suggested that I remove the head and gasket, and then replace the head
without the gasket, but with some short pieces of solder wire between the surfaces. Remove the
head and measure the thickness of the flattened solder wire. Also measure the height of the
cylinder ridge, the depth of the depression in the cylinder head, and the gasket thickness. Allow
10% – 15% for gasket crush when calculating amount to machine off the ridge.
16 May 2009

Removed both cylinder heads, replaced them without the gaskets and with short pieces of solder
wire at top and bottom, and took the following measurements:
MEASURED
Cylinder ridge height
Cylinder head recess
Gasket thickness
Solder wire
Available crush
Head bolt length (effective)
Cylinder head depth

RHS
Top = 3.62mm
Bottom = 3.71mm
Top = 3.52mm
Bottom = 3.42mm
Steel rim = 1.17mm
Other = 1.01mm
Top = 0.46mm
Bottom = 0.49mm
1.01 – 0.49 = 0.52mm
108 – 25mm = 83mm
88mm
LHS
Top = 3.59mm
Bottom = 3.51mm
Top = 3.45mm
Bottom = 3.44mm
Steel rim = 1.15mm
Other = 1.0mm
Top = 0.38mm
Bottom = 0.34mm
1.0 – 0.38 = 0.62mm
108 – 25mm = 83mm
88mm
Filed lower end of RHS cylinder ridge to result in a height of 3.51mm.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
74
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Used a piece of galvanised wire to confirm that oil can drain back into the crankcase down the
small tubes at the lower ends of the cylinder heads.
Scraped recesses in cylinder heads with M&W scraper - minimal.
Flatted both cylinder head mating surfaces on 320 grit water paper on my granite surface plate.
They were both a bit low around the oil return holes.
Flatted carburettor flanges on 320 grit water paper on my granite surface plate.
Replaced cylinder heads and gaskets and torqued oiled head bolts to 35Nm in 3 stages (= 40Nm
on my torque wrench). Clamped rockers to minimise end play. Ensured that the cylinders were at
TDC on the compression stroke (valves closed) before torqueing the head bolts.
Applied CopaSlip paste to exhaust port threads and tightened exhaust nuts.
Adjusted inlet tappets to 0.15mm and exhaust tappets to 0.20mm and refitted tappet covers.
LHS exhaust header needs to be remade – the stub tube for the balance tube is pointing
downwards and is also not opposite the stub for the RHS exhaust header, and the header pipe is
hard up against the frame (front engine mounting bolt).
It is obvious from the foregoing that my initial supposition was incorrect – the cylinder ridge is NOT
preventing the gasket from being crushed sufficiently to form an effective seal. On both cylinders,
there was more than 0.5mm available to crush the head gaskets.
Furthermore, there is sufficient movement on the cylinder head bolts (88mm – 83mm = 5mm) to
torque the heads down effectively before the bolts bottom in the cylinder threads.
One possibility may be that the steel bolt guides in the cylinder heads had loosened when the
heads were heated to replace the valve guides, and had not settled into position when the cylinder
heads were fitted the first time. Another possibility may relate to the much increased compression
ratio due to the use of R50S pistons and skimmed heads. Duane Ausherman‟s “butter heads”
may also be the cause of the oil leaks. (Not true)
Started and ran the „bike twice for a few minutes each time.
17 May 2009

RHS head gasket still leaking oil!!
21 May 2009


Phoned Jan Cornel again about head gasket leak. He confirmed that his new gaskets also have
the metal reinforcing rim around the bore. He confirmed head bolt torque = 35 Nm.
Phoned Hennie van Niekerk re head gasket leak. He said that a lot of Uli‟s spares are becoming
problematic. He now cleans mating surfaces with Meths and applies gasket sealer to both sides
of the head gasket before fitting. He confirmed head bolt torque = 25 ft-lb, and that he does not
loosen bolts before retorqueing.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
75

Hennie suggested that the oil could be coming past the rings (before they seat properly) and then
past the gasket – I need to check this! Note that when I removed the head and gasket, there was
no sign of oil leaking from the bore to the outside – the only sign of oil leaking was from the vicinity
of the return oil galleries. I also did not see any sign of oil bubbling (with lost compression) when
the „bike was running, and there is no smoke from the exhaust.
23 May 2009



Removed RHS tappet cover and checked head bolt torque = 35 Nm (40Nm on my torque
wrench). No movement.
Topped engine oil up with 0.25 litre.
Still leaking oil.
21 June 2009







Removed ignition points base plate and elongated mounting slots with a round file.
Checked timing again with timing light = almost perfect on “S” mark and “F” mark. Still differential
timing = 6mm apart.
The magneto HT terminal on the LHS was sparking to ground every now and then – cut the ends
of the crimped bootlace ferrules for the HT leads = no more sparking to ground.
Checked tyre pressures = 190kPa front & rear.
Removed oil dipstick after running for a while = no positive crankcase pressure. I also checked
that the crankcase breather is working while the engine is running.
„Bike started on the first kick late in the afternoon, and idles well.
RHS head gasket still leaking oil!!
26 July 2009

Fabricated knurled clutch cable adjuster locknut from 20mm Φ s/steel, 5mm thick, tapped 5/16”
BSW.
29 July 2009

Ordered 2 x cylinder head gaskets from Northside M/C at R36-70 each (10 day lead time).
27 August 2009

Collected cylinder head gaskets and air filter element from Northside Motorcycles. Gaskets are
composite 1mm thick with no metal reinforcing.
29 August 2009


Removed slide from RHS carburettor, RHS tappet cover and cylinder head. Rotated the engine to
ensure that the RHS cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed and
valve pushrods loose when rotated).
It appears that the Uli‟s cylinder head gasket is not sealing properly – the metal collar around the
bore of the gasket appears to be preventing the gasket from sealing at the lower end. Both sides
of the Uli‟s gasket were wet with oil in the vicinity of the oil return hole, spreading widely to the
space between the lower bolt holes. Oil was also visible in the lower portion of the combustion
chamber – possibly due to the non-sealing of the gasket. The new BMW OEM gaskets do not
have the metal collar around the bore of the gasket.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
76
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
Chamfered all 4 cylinder head bolt hexagons in the lathe. The spotfacing on the rocker shaft
supports/towers has receded causing the corners of the hex heads to catch on the
spotfacing. This may also have prevented the bolts from reaching the correct torque.
Used a pointed rod to ensure that the oil return hole is clear at the cylinder base gasket.
Fitted the new BMW OEM gasket, replaced the cylinder head and torqued oiled head bolts to
35Nm in 3 stages (= 40Nm on my torque wrench). Ensured that the cylinder was at TDC on the
compression stroke (valves closed) before torqueing the head bolts.
Tightened exhaust nut.
Adjusted inlet tappet to 0.15mm and exhaust tappet to 0.20mm with the cylinder at TDC on the
compression stroke, oiled the rocker shafts and refitted the tappet cover.
30 August 2009


Started and ran the „bike twice.
LHS exhaust header requires quite a bit of work to get all the parts to line up.
31 August 2009

Success!! There was no oil leak under the RHS cylinder after a full day. It seems that the
root cause of the leak was the corners of the hex cylinder head bolts interfering with the
torque readings, or a combination of both reasons.
6 September 2009





Purchased 10 litres of petrol and filled the fuel tank with about 7 litres.
The RHS carb leaked fuel from the float chamber cover as soon as the fuel cock was opened.
Removed float chamber cover from RHS carb, removed pivot pin from float lever, removed
needle, and cleaned dirt out of seat. Replaced pivot pin and checked and adjusted float lever
height (22mm - +4mm). Replaced float chamber cover and confirmed that the needle and seat
are working satisfactorily – no more leaks.
Started the „bike and ran it for a short while, then noticed a drop of oil on the paving under the
LHS cylinder head, and a film of oil under the cylinder head mating face.
Removed slide from LHS carburettor, LHS tappet cover and cylinder head. Rotated the engine to
ensure that the LHS cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed and
valve pushrods loose when rotated).
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
77
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
There was some blackish sediment in the tappet cover.
Oil was again present on both sides of the Uli‟s gasket around the oil return hole indicating a
failure to seal properly.

Chamfered all 4 cylinder head bolt hexagons in the lathe. The spotfacing on the rocker shaft
supports/towers has receded causing the corners of the hex heads to catch on the
spotfacing. This may also have prevented the bolts from reaching the correct torque.
Fitted the new BMW OEM gasket, replaced the cylinder head and torqued oiled head bolts to
35Nm in 3 stages (= 40Nm on my torque wrench). Ensured that the cylinder was at TDC on the
compression stroke (valves closed) before torqueing the head bolts.
Tightened exhaust nut.
Adjusted inlet tappet to 0.15mm and exhaust tappet to 0.20mm with the cylinder at TDC on the
compression stroke, oiled the rocker shafts and refitted the tappet cover.
Started the „bike and ran it again for a short while without problems.




7 September 2009




Phoned Jan Cornel re exhaust headers, etc
Jan says it is better to purchase exhaust headers from overseas because the local people cannot
make the tight bends correctly.
Jan also said the gear lever can be bent upwards (and outwards), either by hand (in 2nd gear), or
in the vice, to clear the LHS exhaust pipe.
Checked the „bike for oil leaks – none at this stage!
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
78
4 October 2009


Went to CMC. Hennie van Zyl will check if has any generator covers lying around. He thinks he
has, but they will all need some welding and repairs. He said he would give me one for gratis. I
must phone him later this week.
Visited Jan Cornel. He does not have a generator cover, but he will ask Hennie Dormehl if he has
one. Also purchased a good steel wheel rim from Jan, as well as the (early 1950 – 1954)
handlebar risers.
5 October 2009

Purchased 2 x M8 x 30 s/steel capscrews, 4 x M8 x 30 s/steel hex screws, 2 x M10 x1 nuts, JKM.
10 October 2009





Removed old handlebar risers and stainless steel spacer from steering damper knob.
Wire-brushed M10 x 1 threads on the new risers from Jan Cornel (for the early 1950 – 1954
„bikes), then cleaned them up with a die nut.
Fitted the new handlebar risers from Jan Cornel using new mild steel nuts (M10 x 1).
Turned raised letters off M8 x 30 s/steel bolt heads and polished them on the buff wheel. Fitted
polished bolts to handlebar clamps.
The new handlebar risers result in the handlebar touching the steering damper knob.
15 October 2009

Melville Price called from Queenstown. He saw my advert in Kickstart magazine for handlebar
risers. He has a spare set off a 1958 „bike, he will swap for taillight chrome bezel, or taillight bulb
holder. His risers need chroming.
18 October 2009




Bent gearlever (outwards) to clear exhaust pipe.
Tried to synchronise carburettor throttles by adjusting cable lengths to result in simultaneous
movement of slides.
Started and ran ‟bike for short periods.
Collected 2 x mirrors from Jan Cornel, also „bike registration procedure. Jan will try to find used
taillight chrome bezel for me to swap with Melville in Queenstown for R50/2 handlebar risers.
19 October 2009



Jan Cornel called to inform me to fit sturdy 10mm diameter washers between the nuts for fitting
the mirrors. I will use stainless steel washers.
Jan also confirmed that he has managed to find me a taillight chrome bezel (from his friend) that
he will let me have. The chrome bezel has a slight dent in it and will be delivered to Jan on
Tuesday evening.
I phoned Melville Price in Queenstown to inform him that I have sourced a chrome bezel for him
and that I would like to swap it for his risers. I requested him to take a photo of his risers and
e-mail to me, which he did.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
79
25 October 2009





Removed generator cover and removed advance mechanism from magneto rotor spindle.
Earthed the points with a fly lead to prevent firing.
Measured runout on magneto rotor spindle with dial test indicator = < 0.03mm (~1 thou”). The
head of the Allen capscrew that retains the advance mechanism on the magneto rotor spindle has
a much larger runout, but this is not due to the capscrew. Measured concentricity of the capscrew
shank and head in the lathe = very good.
Replaced advance mechanism on magneto rotor spindle and replaced generator cover.
Adjusted both idle speed screws to 1 turn in.
Checked tyre pressures: front = 170kPa, rear = 160kPa (suspect slow leak in rear tube)
1 November 2009


Visited Jan Cornel. Jan gave me a taillight rim he obtained from his friend in quite good condition
= gratis. He also lent me some ignition points to try on my „bike.
Sent e-mail to Melville with pictures of the taillight rim.
6 November 2009


Melville confirmed he is happy with the taillight trim ring, but he wants me to have it re-chromed
when I have the risers re-chromed – he said he will pay.
Arranged with Melville to deliver the risers to East London for collection on Saturday
12 November 2009

Collected handlebar risers (ex Melville Price).
15 November 2009

Melville Price called with contact details for Powerflow in Durban. He was quoted R1300-00 +
VAT for a set of polished stainless steel headers, excludes the manifold nuts.
19 November 2009

Sanna undertook to phone me re
Delivered parts to African Electroplating for re-chroming.
completion date (2 weeks) and price.
o
2 x handlebar risers
o
2 x riser clamp bolts
o
2 x M10 x 1 nuts (to be zinc/cad plated only)
o
2 x M8 x 1 nuts (to be zinc/cad plated only)
o
1 x taillight rim (for Melville Price)
o
3 x valve pushrod tubes
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
80
22 November 2009



Loosened handlebar riser nuts.
Removed battery, charged battery (6.48V no load) for a short while, cut a rubber base for the
battery, replaced battery on new rubber base.
Top triple plate will need to be resprayed.
7 December 2009


Gave Piet B cash for procurement of spares from Uli‟s. Delivery is expected today in Munich and
Piet says he should deliver to me on Friday 11 December.
African Electroplating called to inform my parts are ready for collection.
8 December 2009


Collected re-chromed parts from African Electroplating. Note that all the parts were re-chromed,
even the nuts.
Estimate that taillight rim re-chroming = R80-00
12 December 2009



Removed steering damper, steering column nut, and removed top triple plate.
Scraped all layers of paint from triple plate, sanded flat with production paper, wiped with lacquer
thinners and coated with Duram Metcote NS5 etch primer. Flatted with 400 grit water paper.
Removed top engine stay (bracket), as well as fuel tank mounting bracket. Flatted both with 400
grit water paper.
14 December 2009





Beadblasted and prepped old Bosch horn. Cut new paper gaskets. Turned rusted parts in lathe.
Sprayed horn components with grey lacquer primer.
Sprayed Black Limo topcoat on horn components.
Assembled horn using s/steel screws.
Tested old Bosch horn – draws a lot of current with very little sound!
15 December 2009

Piet B delivered spares from Uli‟s (missing 2 x M7x0.75, 9mm AF nuts for carb air screws).
16 December 2009


Fabricated 2 x M7x0.75, 9mm AF nuts for carb air screws using 10mm hex stainless steel. Milled
0.5mm off each flat of 10mm hex s/steel bar. Drilled 6.3mm hole, tapped M7 x 0.75, parted-off
3.5mm thick. Faced & chamfered edges. Removed old nuts from carbs and fitted new nuts.
Spray-painted top triple plate, upper engine mounting bracket and lower fuel tank bracket with 2K
filler primer (4:1 mix with hardener and a little thinners = 40mL + 10mL + 5mL). Let dry for an
hour and then flatted with 400 grit water paper. Set regulator on compressor to 300kPa, used
gravity feed spraygun.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
81
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Spray-painted top triple plate, upper engine mounting bracket and lower fuel tank bracket with 2K
Black topcoat (2:1 mix with hardener and a little thinners = 30mL + 15mL + 5mL). Set regulator
on compressor to 200kPa, used gravity feed spraygun.
Let Black topcoat dry for 2 hours and then flatted with 2000 grit water paper, and polished with
Wynns Restore and Rally car wax.
Refitted fuel tank lower bracket and top engine mounting bracket.
Removed old handlebar risers, and fitted newly chromed risers.
Refitted top triple plate, handlebar risers loosely to avoid damaging paint on triple plate.
17 December 2009




Removed handlebar and risers from triple plate.
Tightened 36mm AF nut on steering head to clamp on triple plate. Tightened 19mm AF nuts
clamping top plate to forks.
Refitted handlebar & risers to triple plate. Tightened 17mm AF nuts clamping risers to triple plate.
Refitted steering damper and fitted split pin. Adjusted angle of handlebar as well as perches.
23 December 2009

Visited Jan Cornel. Purchased a new 6V horn from Jan.
24 December 2009




Fitted new 6V horn using s/steel screw & nut. Tested = OK.
Flatted paint on frame with 2000 grit water paper and polished to shine.
Fabricated 2 x spark plug extensions (for shorting out plugs when tuning), using 2 x 44mm lengths
of 6mm AF hex plated mild steel, with one end turned and threaded M4 for about 10mm, and the
other end drilled and tapped M4.
Fabricated wheel hub pin spanner, using 4 x M6 x20 capscrews on 44mm diameter circle, turned
down to 4mm dia on the ends, steel plate 8mm thick, bored 13mm diameter and turned OD =
60mm. Welded 22mm AF nut on the steel plate. Sprayed grey primer undercoat followed by a
coat of machinery grey spraypaint. Supplied with galvanised M12 bolt, nut and 2 x washers.
27 December 2009



Reset idle speed screws on both carbs = 1 turn in.
Adjusted cable length on LHS carb to result in almost simultaneous lifting of carb slides.
Started bike and ran for a few minutes only.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
82
28 December 2009

Fabricated hollow drift for adjusting seating of valve pushrod tubes from 20mm dia conduit. Cut a
length (170mm) conduit, slit the tube for a length of 45mm and cut half the circumference at 60
deg. Deburred all cut edges.
10 February 2010



Took one tappet cover to Aerotig (Charlie Hamer) to weld one fin.
Fettled welding, used milling machine, die grinder, file and scraper.
Bead blasted tappet cover.
3 March 2010

Telephoned Krish at Powerflow in Durban. He confirmed s/steel headers = R1300 + VAT, plus
postage or shipping to me. They do not deal with other branches. Procedure = place order, they
manufacture, when ready for shipping they provide invoice. Effect payment and they will
ship/post. Manufacture takes up to 2 weeks.
7 March 2010







Purchased 2 x 18” and 2 x 19” rim tapes from CMC (ex Errol Cowan estate).
Fabricated 2 x s/steel (304) flat washers for front axle. OD = 25mm, ID = 14.3mm, 3.5mm thick,
chamfered, deburred and polished on the buffing wheel.
Fabricated 3 x 22mm hex nuts (M14x1.5) for front & rear axles. Milled a section of 25mm Φ 304
s/steel bar to 22mm hex and sawed off 5 pieces 9mm thick. Faced the flat sides in the lathe to a
nominal 8.5mm, centre drilled, drilled 5mm pilot hole, then 8mm, then 12.5mm (tapping size for
M14x1.5). Countersunk the bores and chamfered the corners.
Tapped holes M14x1.5 using the lathe initially to align the tap, then in the bench vice.
Deburred and flatted all faces on 400 grit water paper.
Polished on the buffing wheel.
Replaced both old axle nuts with the new s/steel nuts, fitted new s/steel washer on front axle.
13 March 2010




Fabricated s/steel (304) flat washer for rear axle. OD = 32mm, ID = 14.3mm, 4.0mm thick,
chamfered, deburred and polished on the buffing wheel.
Removed old rear axle flat washer and replaced with the new s/steel washer.
Started bike and ran it for short while. Bike would not idle and LHS did not appear to be running
as well as the RHS. RHS cylinder head hotter than LHS.
Removed both carburettors and checked for blockages. The idle jet on the LHS carburettor was
blocked. Checked float levels and replaced carburettors.
14 March 2010

Started „bike on second kick, ran beautifully! Idles well. Both cylinders getting equally hot.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
83
27 March 2010

Visited Jan Cornel. Jan has the following /2 spares available:
o R50 engine case, very good condition
o Rear swing arm and driveshaft, good
o Separate driveshaft, good
o Final drive, case cracked – needs welding
o Tappet covers, new
o Gearbox spares (except kickstart gears)
10 April 2010

Fabricated T-handle pin spanner for rear swing arm adjusters.
3 May 2010

Telephonically ordered a set of s/steel exhaust headers from Powerflow in Durban (Krish
Naicker). Takes about 2 weeks from date of order. Followed up with an e-mail to
[email protected].
8 May 2010


Removed bench seat, and refitted seat with side brackets between the rear mudguard and the
mounting points on the rear suspension towers. Seat is now firmly attached and follows the
contours of the mudguard more closely for a better visual effect.
Attempted (unsuccessfully) to set carburettors. The LHS mixture adjustment is effective, but
adjustment of the mixture screw on the RHS does not result in much difference. This is possibly
due to a restriction in the idle jet, or the #35 idle jets need to be replaced with #40 jets.
10 May 2010


Removed RHS carb and unscrewed idle jet. Removed blockage from idle jet, and replaced carb.
Tried to set carbs again, but still the RHS idle air screw does not seem to have much effect. This
could be because the LHS carb is still too “dominant” and the idle speed adjusting screw needs to
be turned out on the LHS carb.
Tried again to set the carbs. Achieved much success by adjusting the throttle cable length on the
RHS carb with the engine running on part throttle. This resulted in a marked increase in speed
and much smoother running (less vibration).
14 May 2010



Visited Roly Tilman and obtained another carb float and an idle stop screw.
Replaced float and idle stop screw on RHS carburettor.
Noted that the idle stop screw is the same length as the old one.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
84
27 May 2010

Collected s/steel Powerflow headers from Post Office.
28 May 2010





Removed old headers and trial fitted new s/steel headers.
Cut 6mm off each front pipe, and 12mm off pipes that fit into the silencers, using bandsaw.
Cut 6mm off balance tube pipe.
Slotted the pipes that fit into the silencers with a hacksaw – they are 36mm diameter and the
silencers are made to fit 35mm diameter pipes.
Managed to fit headers so that the cylinder head joints do not leak – by removing the silencers
and fitting the head joint first and tightening the nuts hand tight before fitting the silencers.
9 June 2010




Removed RHS carb again and unscrewed idle jet. Removed blockage from idle jet. Checked that
the idle fuel passage into the body of the carb was clear.
Removed idle mixture screw and tinned the thread lightly with solder to improve the fit in the carb
body. Replaced the idle mixture screw 2 turns out.
Cleaned deposit out of float chamber, lightly sanded sides of float chamber.
Re-assembled and refitted carb.
23 June 2010


Fabricated one spoke retainer using 16mm round brass rod. Drilled centre hole 4mm, then turned
spigot 7.3mm diameter. Milled 10.5mm square and parted off to 3.2mm thick (square). Faced
square face in the lathe (to 3mm thick) and countersunk centre hole using 7mm drillbit. Placed
new s/steel spoke in the retainer, held retainer in the bench vice and tapped spoke head down
into the countersink to form the retaining slots.
Started wheelbuilding. Inserted all spoke retainers, new s/steel spokes and new nipples.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
85
4 – 6 July 2010

Fabricated wheel trueing/balancing stand using 25mm square tubing and 20mm square tubing,
welded together. Design is largely based on a commercial wheel balancing stand from Rod Neff
described and reviewed on www.webbikeworld.com.
11-12 July 2010

Removed battery and charged it for 7.5 hours. Initial open circuit voltage = 5.28V, final voltage =
6.29V (after a rest period). Note that when new, the battery charged to 6.76V after 5 hours at
0.8A.
6 August 2010

Craig Patterson called from Bloemfontein re my advert in Kickstart magazine. He has a (new old
stock) generator cover for me, without the captive nuts. He wants to swap for 2 x valve pushrods
for R60/2.
7 August 2010


Phoned Jan Cornel to enquire if he has R60/2 pushrods. He confirmed that he has 4 new
pushrods (251mm long, 7mm diameter), and he will sell them to me for R250 each. He also
confirmed that he has two hardened perch wedges for me. He also asked me to fabricate 2 x
eccentric bushes for him for the gearbox he is restoring for Roly Tilman.
Fabricated 2 x eccentric bushes using 20mm diameter silver steel. Faced the end and turned
down to 18.5mm diameter for a length of 28mm, then turned down to 15mm diameter by 17.20mm
long, chamfered edges. Used 1.5mm parting tool to cut a shallow groove (0.5mm deep) at the
head of the bush, slowest direct speed on the lathe. Cut a shallow vee-groove to indicate 18.5mm
round collar 2.10mm deep. Used bandsaw to cut off to 25mm long, faced cut end in the lathe to
end up with 24.10mm overall length, and 6.90mm length of 18.5mm diameter. Gripped 15mm
diameter in the 3-jaw chuck with a piece of 0.8mm shim under one jaw to set eccentric. Centre
drilled, drilled right through with 4mm pilot drill and then drilled out to 6.8mm. Used 8mm drill to
counterbore 7mm deep the hex end, chamfered edges and started M8 tap using the tailstock drill
chuck. Removed work piece from lathe, gripped in bench vice and tapped M8 through.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
86



Clamped work piece in drill vice and used pedestal drill with a 90 deg countersink to chamfer hole
edges. Clamped work piece in the milling vice with a vee-block and milled a 16mm AF hex on the
18.5mm diameter end about 5mm deep. Replaced work piece in the 3-jaw lathe chuck and
chamfered the edges of the hexagon. Checked that a 16mm ring spanner will fit the hex.
Polished 15mm diameter bush in the lathe using emery cloth to reduce the diameter to 14.97mm.
Coated bushes with liquid soap, heated to cherry red (non-magnetic) and quenched in a bucket of
cold water. Polished bush circumference and tempered to blue. Polished bush circumference
again and checked 14.97mm diameter with micrometer. Cleaned thread and checked that an M8
bolt screws in easily all the way.
Note that the above description has been updated to provide the correct measurements.
10 August 2010




Visited Jan Cornel. The fabricated eccentric bushes were just too big to fit nicely in the gear
selector forks, so I polished the bushes in his lathe with emery cloth wrapped around a file. The
final diameter for a smooth fit in the gear selector forks was 14.95mm.
It looks like there is sufficient space for the hexagons on the bushes next to the input shaft. If not,
Jan can grind the hexagons on his bench grinder.
Jan agreed to a straight swap – one eccentric bush for one R60/2 pushrod.
Jan also gave me two perch wedges and three spoke plates.
15 August 2010


Craig Patterson sent me an e-mail confirming that he has posted the engine/generator cover,
together with a tracking number.
I sent Craig an e-mail stating that I will collect the pushrods from Jan Cornel and will post them
later this week.
19 August 2010



Collected flat generator cover from Post Office.
Packaged R60/2 pushrods in a short length of PVC conduit after greasing them.
padded envelope and took to Cresta P.O.
Sent e-mail to Craig, thanks for cover and advising him of the posting of his pushrods.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
Placed in
87
21 August 2010


Fabricated 2 x special nuts for new generator front cover, using 16mm Φ stainless steel 304 bar.
Cut an 80mm length of s/steel bar using the bandsaw. Gripped bar in 3-jaw chuck, faced cut end
and turned down to 14.5mm Φ for circular collar (2,5mm wide), then down to 10mm Φ for 30mm
long main body, overall length = 38mm. Turned a 1mm wide recess for the circlip 2mm from the
end of the 10mm Φ shank. Centre-drilled deeply and drilled 5mm Φ hole 30mm deep, and
threaded M6 x 1. Reversed the bar and gripped newly turned 10mm shank in the 3-jaw chuck to
repeat the foregoing procedure, but with support from the tailstock centre. Gripped workpiece in
the bench vice and cut in half using hand hacksaw. Chucked individual workpieces in the lathe
and faced the cut ends to result in an overall length of 38mm. Removed from lathe and milled
10mm AF hex on ends for 5,5mm deep, resulting in a 14.5mm diameter collar 2.5mm thick
between the hex and the 10mm diameter portion. Returned to lathe and chamfered the hex
corners and domed the ends. Fitted 10mm external circlips to the grooves.
On subsequent nuts, I changed the dimensions to 15.0mm Φ (for 8mm) and 10.5mm Φ (for
30mm). Before cutting the hex in the milling machine, I turned the 15mm Φ portion down to
11.5mm Φ for a length of 5.5mm (less to mill). Circlip grooves are cut so that the circlips rotate
easily. Labour = 2 hours.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
88
22 August 2010

First attempt at bead blasting new generator front cover. Still not working very effectively. I may
also have to use sandpaper to smooth roughness on the generator cover before bead blasting
again.
24 - 28 August 2010



Sanded new generator front cover using 80 grit sandpaper and sanding block, as well as rotary
sanding pad in Ryobi cordless drill.
Bead blasted new generator front cover, washed in soapy water, dried with blast from air duster.
Fitted new stainless steel captive nuts and fitted new front cover to engine.
8 September 2010

Purchased 10 x 10mm external circlips and 10 x 10mm E-clips, JKM.
11 September 2010

Removed fabricated perch wedges and fitted OEM wedges (from Jan Cornel).
26 September 2010


Started bike, 3rd kick. Revs well, idles. Rode bike in 1st gear along driveway. Need to adjust
front brakes.
Touched up chips in paintwork with brush-applied Duco Black Limo.
27 September 2010

Painted fixed hex on front swing arm spindle with Duram Metcote NS5 etch primer, 2K primer and
2K black enamel, using a brush.
1 October 2010

Fabricated a reducing bush for front wheel spindle using an 80mm length of 20mm OD
galvanised steel conduit, bored out to 17mm ID.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
89






Fabricated an inner “top hat” bush from 30mm OD BMS. Faced end and turned 30mm OD, then
turned 25mm OD for a length of 8.5mm. Centre drilled and progressively drilled out to 19mm ID
before using a boring tool to finish the ID to 20mm. Cut off to 11mm length in the bench vise,
fitted in 3-jaw chuck and faced the cut end to result in a “brim” thickness of 1.5mm, chamfered all
sharp edges and reversed in the 3-jaw chuck to face the smaller end to result in an overall length
of 10mm.
Flatted “wedding band” spacer ring on emery cloth to adjust the bearing preload.
Cleaned SKF and FAG bearings in petrol and oiled using H32 oil. These bearings are in perfect
condition.
Fitted all parts to the spare spindle, using a tubular spacer to provide thrust on the bearings.
Fitted spindle and bearing stack in wheel to be trued, and clamped spindle in wheel
truing/balancing stand.
The rim requires extensive truing to meet specification!
2 October 2010

Fabricated another spoke spanner using 16mm Φ EN8 (the previous spanner made from 13mm
hex MS broke!).
6 October 2010

Removed front brake lever and rotated it on the splines to result in an angle closer to 90 degrees
when the brake hand lever is applied. The distance between the lower parts of the arms is now
closer to the 16.5cm quoted by Duane Ausherman. Hopefully, this will improve the effectiveness
of the front brake.
10 October 2010

Adjusted front brake cam anticlockwise to take up some slack in operating the brake shoes.
Adjusted brake Bowden cable free play.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
90
13 October 2010

Took newly spoked wheel to Jan Cornel for trueing. There is a “dent” in the rim on one side. Jan
tried to hammer it out with a deadblow rubber mallet, but with no success. He said the rim should
be fine on the rear wheel of the motorcycle. He also checked the runout on the brake drum and
said it was fine. Bearings appear to be correctly adjusted.
16 October 2010




Milled flats on newly fabricated spoke wrench. Jan Cornel has similar spoke wrenches with
handles twice as long.
Fabricated four stainless steel washers (two for spares).for carb floats: OD = 7mm, ID = 2.5mm,
thickness = 1.5mm.
Fitted new stainless steel washers to my BMW R50/2 carb float pins.
Fabricated 8 more stainless steel carb float washers for Jan Cornel.
23 October 2010





0.0 Hours (Total = 465 hours
Replaced short length of fuel hose between inline filter and float chamber to cure a fuel leak.
Tickled carbs and slowly moved kickstart lever twice to turn motor over. Kicked once and the
motor started and idled perfectly.
Rode motorcycle up and down the road twice. Gear lever catching on LHS exhaust header.
Tapped LHS exhaust header pipes inwards with a rubber mallet, tightened exhaust manifold
nuts.
Rode motorcycle up and down the road twice more. Gear lever not catching on LHS exhaust
header anymore. Gearbox and clutch action are perfect!
26 October 2010

Mike Lester gave me a new National 6V 35/35W headlamp globe. (Lamp fitted is 25/25W)
30 October 2010

Removed all the new s/steel spokes and nipples from the bent/buckled rim
xx November 2010



Fabricated a bending brake for the steel wheel rim using a thick wooden plank and some tough
angle iron.
Cut 2 x curved strips from pine plank to use inside the rim when using the bending brake.
Bolted bent rim to the plank and pulled the rim over to the appropriate side to straighten the rim –
in 3 places. Some success.
1 January 2011

Fabricated 2 off vacuum take-off stubs from 7mm diameter brass rod. Turned down to 6mm
diameter, centre-drilled and drilled 1.5mm right through. Drilled 3mm diameter for approx 8mm
and tapped M3.5 x 0.7. Chamfered inner and outer edges. Reversed in the 3-jaw chuck and
faced to length = 18mm. Chamfered edge and threaded M6 x 1 for 6mm using the tailstock die
holder. Chamfered inside edges.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
91




Cut 2 x M3.5 screws to 6mm length and turned down brass washers to suit. Fitted red fibre
washers.
Removed carburettors, mounted them on an angle plate and drilled through mounting flange with
1.5mm drill, followed by a 5mm drill for about 6mm. Tapped hole M6 x 1 using a bottoming tap.
Used Loctite Threadlocker 243 on brass vacuum stubs and screwed them into the carburettor
mounting flanges (using the blanking screw as a driver). Let set for about 30 minutes.
Refitted carburettors to motorcycle.
2 January 2011









Tried, unsuccessfully, to adjust carburettors using the differential manometer. The RHS cylinder
always showed more vacuum.
Removed spark plugs and carried out compression test (using 2 different gauges):
 LHS = 5 Bar Gunson (6 Bar Dixco)
 RHS = 7 Bar Gunson (8 Bar Dixco)
Compression is low and unbalanced. It could be low because the rings have not yet seated, or
because the valves are not sealing. There is also a possibility that the cylinder head gaskets are
still not sealing properly due to incorrect torque on the head bolts.
Removed valve covers – Black deposit at the bottom of both covers, like soot/carbon.
Check-tightened cylinder head bolts using a 14mm ring/flat spanner. It felt as if the RHS bolts
were slightly looser than the LHS bolts.
Check-tightened the cylinder base nuts with a 17mm ring/flat spanner. Some seemed a bit loose.
Checked and adjusted valve tappet clearances again. Initially, I could not get the LHS at the
point where the pushrods were loose, so I checked the RHS first, then turned the engine 180
degrees, and “miraculously” the LHS pushrods were loose (I cant explain why).
Repeated the compression test (cold) with the Gunson gauge:
LHS = 7 Bar
RHS = 7 Bar
Cleaned and refitted the valve covers, spark plugs, timing hole rubber plug.
Note that at 1700m above sea level, the compression pressure reduces to 0.853 of the quoted
specs. For the R50/2, at 1700m amsl, the pressure should read 7 – 8 bar.
8 January 2011

Removed front brake lever on brake drum and replaced it shifted by one spline.
15 January 2011




Removed RHS carb and idle jet. Cleaned out idle jet and idle air screw. Replaced idle air screw
2 turns out from fully seated.
Checked float lever height = 22mm.
Flatted carb mounting face on 320 water paper on plate glass.
Replaced carb. Set idle speed screw just touching slide.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
92
31 January 2011

Loaded bike on trailer (borrowed from Zane) and delivered it to Jan Cornel. Jan spent just over 2
hours on my bike:
o
The compression does differ, but nothing to be concerned about.
o
Jan checked the ignition timing with his timing light – the differential timing is well within
spec. (I think the timing is just a touch retarded). He also says the mechanical advance
seems a bit slow.
o
He removed the carb float chamber covers and said there was not enough fuel in the
chambers. He removed the small s/steel washers on top of the floats and replaced them
with much larger washers. He thinks the floats should be 11g on the lever top carbs and
not 7g. He says I could try 2 washers on top of each float to improve the pickup from idle.
o
He says I must set the tappets 0.2mm (inlet) and 0.25mm (exhaust) (0.05mm more than
spec). This appears to be satisfactory for local climatic conditions.
o
We bent the tab in the headlight switch unit a touch to get the engine cutout to work.
o
I cut a small shim using 0.010” brass, folded double and inserted over cutout switch tab.
o
Removed generator cover and checked the mechanical advance unit – appears to be OK.
o
Jan says I must bend the gear lever some more to clear the exhaust pipe.
o
He also says I must take some 40 grit sandpaper and take off the high spots on the front
brake shoes.
o
Jan checked the idle speed with an inductive pickup rev counter – seems to be idling at
around 750 rpm.
o
Jan says the clutch cable appears to be a bit tight – needs to be loosened a bit.
o
LHS carb leaking fuel a bit from screw plugs.
o
Jan removed the fuel hoses and filters and replaced with new plastic hoses.
o
While there I looked at another bike – gap between front swingarm and cover = 2 x mine.
1 February 2011




Researched lever top carb info (Bing manual, Vech site, Uli‟s, Roland Slabon, etc)
Floats for lever top carbs = 7 grams. Only carbs for BMW R26s and R27s use 11 gram floats.
Small washers/spacers on top of the floats are only required when using soft-tip float needles.
My float needles are solid/hard tipped. The spacer will have the effect of reducing the amount of
fuel in the float chamber, in the same way that bending the float lever outwards reduces the fuel
level.
To get more fuel into the chamber, remove the spacers and bend the float lever upwards another
mm. Jan fabricated a stepped rod that he fits through the float lever to check the float lever
height. On my carbs, the float levers were about 1mm too high (using his gauge).
2 February 2011





Removed tappet covers and re-torqued cylinder head bolts (40Nm on my torque wrench – reads
5Nm too high)
Adjusted tappet clearances to 0.2mm (inlet) and 0.25mm (exhaust).
Oiled the valve rocker shaft holes and replaced tappet covers.
Bike started on the first kick, idles well, revs fine (perhaps a bit slow), no noise from tappets, and
cuts out when the ignition switch is pulled, as it should!
Checked ignition timing dynamically with my timing light – the one line (of differential timing) was
below the timing mark on the crank case, and the other line and “S” mark were even lower at idle
speed.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
93
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





Removed generator cover and mechanical advance unit.
Adjusted points gap to 0.45mm to advance the timing slightly.
Adjusted spring tension on mechanical advance unit – reduced tension. Noted that the springs
are of heavier gauge than those on the worn unit loaned to me by Jan Cornel.
Replaced mechanical advance unit and checked timing dynamically again. This time the lower
line and “S” mark are on the timing mark on the crank case, and the upper differential mark is
above them. I think it is acceptable for a touch more timing advance at this altitude.
Replaced generator cover and rubber plug for the timing hole.
Bike starts on first kick, idles well.
Pumped tyres 200kPa.
Rode bike around the block – a bit rough and sluggish, but OK. Need to check and adjust
steering head bearings and/or front swing arm bearing preload. Brakes still disappointing, and
gear lever still needs to be bent upwards to clear exhaust pipe.
5 February 2011


Fabricated a float lever height gauge using Φ 4.8mm rod. Turned down to Φ 3.8mm for about
16mm, then turned down to Φ 2.8mm for a length of 10mm. Then adjusted the Φ 2.8mm portion
to result in a length of about 5mm for the Φ 3.8mm portion.
Adjusted float lever heights on both carbs using the new float lever height gauge. Works very
well, since it takes the guess-work out of using a rule and trying to keep everything at right
angles.
6 February 2011





Visited Jan Cornel after CMC visit. Jan says my bike‟s advance mechanism is correct. The
springs are too weak on the repaired unit. However, my unit may need 11mm springs (currently
they are 9mm long), as indicated on the Slash2 forum.
Jan could not explain to me the principles of adjusting the advance unit spring tensions.
Jan is very happy with the repair work I performed on the worn out advance mechanism. He
reckons, with the correct springs, it should last many miles.
Replaced mechanical advance unit and generator cover on my bike, started the bike, and it idled
and revved fine.
The main 15A fuse blew when trying to replace the generator cover – confirming the necessity to
disconnect the power when removing/replacing the cover!
13 February 2011



Started bike easily, and rode it around the suburb.
Still a bit slow to rev, and something loose on the front end – could be steering head bearings or
front swing arm. Front brake still pathetic, rear brake “pulsing”.
Tightened both carb plug screws.
14 February 2011

Bought new 14mm ring/flat spanner (Kennedy) from ExecuPawn.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
94
22 February 2011





Fabricated 2 x stainless steel domed 13mm AF nuts for valve covers to dimensions from Melville
Price.
Chucked 13mm hex s/steel bar, faced the end, centre drilled, and drilled tapping size (6.8mm) for
M8 thread, 21mm deep. Countersunk for 2mm with 8mm drill bit and chamfered inside edge.
Tapped M8 with spiral flute tap. Turned down hex to Φ 12mm for a distance of 12mm.
Chamfered edges. Removed from chuck, cut off 25mm length, and reversed in the lathe chuck.
Faced the end to achieve 12mm long hex portion, domed the end using the chamfer tool, a file
and emery cloth. Polished on the electric buffing wheel.
Removed the 2 commercial M8 dome nuts from the valve covers, as well as the spring washers.
Fitted B8 s/steel wavy washers and the new fabricated s/steel domed nuts to the valve covers.
Fabricated 2 more dome nuts for Melville Price.
25 February 2011

Purchased 2 x M10 copper washers, and 2 x M14 copper washers, JKM.
27 February 2011






Started bike first kick, rode bike around the suburb. Noticed that there is play in the steering
head.
Placed bike on centre stand and raised front end with a trestle under the front of the engine. The
play in the steering head bearings was seen and felt when moving the swing arm forwards and
backwards.
Removed handlebar riser nuts and detached handlebar from top yoke. Removed yoke bolts and
removed steering damper (note that the bottom plate on the steering damper falls off!). Removed
36mm AF nut, and lifted off the top yoke.
Tightened the 41mm AF nut on the steering head at least half a turn and felt for play in the
steering head bearings, and checking that the wheel moves easily from side to side.
Replaced top yoke and fitted the chromed bolts. Refitted the 36mm AF nut on the steering head
and tightened it securely with a ring/flat spanner. Refitted the handlebar risers in the top yoke
and tightened the nuts securely. Refitted the steering damper. Checked that the front wheel still
moves easily from side to side.
Rode the bike around the suburb again, and confirmed that there is no more play in the steering
head bearings. Parked bike.
2 March 2011

Bought 200mm x 80mm x 4mm MS plate from Fleet Steel in Strijdom Park to fabricate steering
head spanner 36/41mm.
4 March 2011

Bought two oil seals = 65 x 85 x 10, 30 x 42 x7 (Nitrile) for final drive, BMG.
7 March 2011

Bought 431 (EN57) stainless steel, Φ 20mm x 260mm and Φ 25mm x 430mm from Diversified
Alloys in Stormill to turn axles.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
95
9 March 2011

Fabricated 36/41mm steering head spanner using 4mm MS plate (3 hours)
10 March 2011

Bought oil seal 28 x 47 x 7 Nitrile for final drive, BMG.
11 March 2011


Replaced front suspension bolts with M10 stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts (used A4 nuts
with CopaSlip).
Fitted cable ties to tyre pump and frame.
12 March 2011

Started bike first kick, rode bike around the suburb.
14 March 2011



Bought stainless steel hex bolt M12 x 45 and nut, JKM
Replaced LHS rear suspension bolt with M12 stainless steel bolt, washers and nut (with
CopaSlip).
Note that RHS rear suspension bolt is fine thread fitting into final drive housing (to be fabricated).
17 March 2011



Milled 8 x stainless steel hex nuts M10, 17mm AF down to 14mm AF.
Removed M10 stainless steel hex nuts from cylinder bases and replaced them with the 14mm AF
nuts.
Ground 14mm Kennedy ring/flat spanner to fit in the confined space around the cylinder bases.
26 March 2011


Aligned front and rear wheels using a length of 25mm square tubing lifted up on bricks.
Measured wheelbase (used carpenter square):
o
RHS = 1425mm
o
LHS = 1405mm
o
Spec = 1415mm
11 April 2011


Collected BVK/SOA forms from Randburg Licencing Office for registration of a “rebuild”.
Completed forms, scanned forms and receipts
12 April 2011

Took completed BVK/SOA forms to Linden SAPS for sworn affidavit.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
96
13 April 2011




Took completed forms to Randburg Licencing Office. They told me to take the completed forms
to Langlaagte Testing Station (at weighbridge) for Police Clearance (before 11h00).
Langlaagte Testing Station (4) told me (at 11h00) to return tomorrow with the bike. They only
“work” from 07h30 to 11h00! They first entered the engine number into the computer and
checked for something or other (didn‟t tell me).
Need proof of residence (+ 2 copies), ID (+ 2 copies), originals (+ 2 copies) for Langlaagte TS.
Removed paint from frame numbers on the steering head.
15 April 2011





Loaded bike on Zane‟s bike trailer and drove to Langlaagte Testing Station (at weighbridge) for
Police Clearance (09h30).
Queued at window 4, and handed completed BVK/SOA forms to them. They took forms and
copy of my ID and completed Part 1 of RPI form. I then waited for my number to be called.
When they called my number, they returned the forms to me and I drove into the vehicle queue
where the SAPS completed Part 2 of the RPI form (frame and engine number, make and model
of vehicle), and told me to take the bike to the weighbridge at Randburg Testing Station to be
weighed, before handing the forms back to Randburg Licencing Office.
Departed Langlaagte at 11h30 and drove to Randburg Testing Station, where they informed me
that they did not weigh bikes since the licence fee is a flat rate for bikes!. They said I must take
the completed forms back to Randburg Licencing office.
Unloaded the trailer at home, scanned the completed RPI and returned to Randburg Licencing
Office where the system was offline and I was told to return on Monday.
20 April 2011

Took forms to Randburg Licence Office. Completed parts A and C of form RLV (Request to
Register & Licence Motor Vehicle). They made 2 copies of ALL the forms. They checked on
Natis system that engine and chassis numbers do not exist. They then send the 2 copies to
Pretoria for the details to be entered on the system. Call after 2 weeks to confirm that details
have been entered on Natis.
25 April 2011




Removed centre stand, tried to bend LHS leg inwards to clear silencer. Not successful. Closed
the ends of the legs from 175mm inside measurement to 170mm inside measurement, but it
probably bent the RHS leg further in.
Inserted M10 s/steel nut between LHS silencer and mounting – still not enough for centre stand
to clear.
RHS of centre stand needs to have a 5mm plate welded underneath to get the bike to stand more
or less perpendicular.
8 May 2011

24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
97
15 May 2011

Bought 1”BSW Britool socket (3/4” drive) from Piston Ring Club to fabricate pin wrench for final
drive pinion removal.
16 May 2011


Turned down OD of 1”BSW Britool socket from 60mm to 57.5mm, using brazed tip lathe tool –
very tough metal!
Hacksawed slots in the end of the socket to suit slotted ring in final drive.
Tools Fabricated for BMW R50/2
Final Drive Pin Wrench Fabricated from 1” BSW Britool Socket
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
98
20 May 2011

Returned 27:8 final drive to Jan Cornel (he needed it for spares to repair a client‟s diff).
22 May 2011





Removed centre stand again and bent the RHS leg in the vice to clear the exhaust pipe.
Sanded tool marks on centre stand.
Mixed some 2K black paint and hardener and brush-painted the centre stand.
Replaced centre stand – note that the stand has been modified. Threaded bushes (M10) have
been welded to the stand, and the holes in the frame are too small for the standard steel bushes.
Started bike first kick and rode it around the block again.
29 May 2011


Tightened front swing arm spindle nut (24mm spanner), as well as rear swing arm dome nuts
(36mm).
Started bike first kick and rode bike around the block twice.
12 July 2011



Started bike first kick and rode bike around the block twice.
Clutch grabs on pull away, not smooth take up.
Centre stand rattling against exhaust when up.
23 July 2011
1.
2.
3.
4.
Removed air filter assembly and battery.
Cleaned air filter housing.
Checked battery voltage = 5.26V. Trickle-charged battery for 3 hours. Voltage = 6.30V.
Replaced battery and air filter assembly.
1 August 2011
1. Phone Randburg Licence Office – bike has finally been entered on Natis system.
2. Went to Randburg Licence Office and was issued with a Request for Police Clearance (RPC)
form, and told to take the bike back to Langlaagte Testing Grounds for SAPS clearance and to
obtain a roadworthy certificate (RWC).
12 August 2011
1. Fitted rear view mirror on RHS handlebar.
2. Placed bike on Zane‟s trailer and went to Langlaagte Testing Grounds for SAPS clearance, from
09h00 to 12h00. Had to make a copy of the original RPI form (R3-00) on site. All the SAPS did
was to take a photo of the frame number. Then I had to wait for the printed SAPS clearance form.
3. Drove to Randburg Testing Grounds and obtained Roadworthy Certificate = R180, 1 hour. Had to
start the bike and turn on lights and brake light.
4. Returned bike to storage and placed battery on trickle charge.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
99
13 August 2011
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Disconnected battery & tack-welded 5mm plate under RHS leg of centre stand.
Placed bike on axle stands and removed centre stand.
Welded plate on centre stand and dressed the welds.
Painted the work with Duram Metcote NS5 self-etching primer, let dry.
Mixed some Black 2K paint and touched up centre stand, let dry.
Replaced centre stand & reconnected battery.
04 September 2011
1. Went to CMC and visited Jan Cornel
 Jan lent me 2 x 120 main jets to try in my bike.
 Jan asked me to make 2 more pairs of gearbox selector eccentric bushes
2. Started bike first kick and rode it around the suburb a few times.
10 September 2011
1. Removed carbs and fitted 120 main jets.
2. Applied Hylomar to carb base gaskets and refitted carbs
3. Started bike and rode it around the suburb. It feels like there is a definite improvement in
responsiveness with the new 120 main jets.
11 October 2011
1. Fitted M5 Helicoil to Mike Lester‟s R60/2 carb. Carb is fitted with 125 main jet for lever top carbs.
2. Mike Lester rode my bike around the suburb – the following comments apply:
 Clutch is a problem – grabbing. Could be flywheel runout or requires new parts.
 Gearbox “clonks” more than his R60/2 – ensure that oil in gearbox is SAE40 (correct).
 Rear brake pulsates but works well.
 Front brake has too much “spring” – looks like a cable problem. Try replacing the cable.
 Performance seems to be fine.
 He says I must remove the fuel tank and he will improve the finish on it (gratis).
3. Replaced front brake cable with thicker Uli‟s cable – moved front brake lever out one notch again.
14 October 2011
1. Pulled in clutch lever on handlebars and observed flywheel moving slightly through the timing
inspection hole. This may be due to a “loose fitting” crank rear bearing, and could be the cause of
the clutch grabbing.
27 October 2011
1. Tried to register and licence the bike at Randburg Licencing Office. I was informed that:
 The NATIS entry had expired after 21 days
 The RWC had expired after 60 days
2. I was told to make another copy of ALL the previously submitted documentation and to resubmit
for the NATIS entry to be recaptured.
3. Returned home and made another copy of all the documentation.
4. Returned to Randburg Licencing Office and resubmitted the copy of all documentation. I was told
it should only take a few days.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
100
2 November 2011
1. Randburg Licencing Office telephonically confirmed that the NATIS entry had been approved. I
was advised to register the bike on the following day.
3 November 2011
1. Randburg Licencing Office took all the ORIGINAL documents including the blue form application
for registration.
2. I paid the cashier R180 for the registration certificate and R120 for the licence. However, he
would not give me the licence disc until a new RWC has been submitted.
13 November 2011
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Removed old clutch cable.
Oiled new clutch cable from Uli‟s.
Filed slots in cable adjusters to fit the new thicker cable.
Fitted new clutch cable from Uli‟s.
Rode the bike around the suburb. Clutch still grabs and shudders on take up, but feels better with
the new cable. Front brakes definitely feel better.
6. I cannot locate any confirmation that I measured the thickness of the clutch friction plate before
refitting, or the wear on the clutch cover plate. What are the specs for the /5 clutch friction plate
thickness?
15 November 2011
1. Trailered the bike to Randburg Testing station where they issued another RWC = R180 (only
checked brake light, hooter and headlight functioning).
2. Submitted RWC with licence application form to Randburg Licencing Office where they issued a
valid licence and disc (no extra charge).
3 December 2011
1.
2.
3.
4.
Bought Sterling licence disc holder, Main Reef Midas (R14)
Fitted licence disc holder to LHS rear mudguard stay bolt.
Placed valid licence disc in holder.
Rode bike around the block twice. Clutch is a bit better and front brakes feel more “solid”.
11 December 2011
1. Started bike first kick. Rode bike around the block twice.
2. The clutch was still “grabby”, and I heard a rattle when I let the clutch out to ease the bike forward
in 1st gear from a dead stop. I also removed the rubber stop in the timing hole and observed the
flywheel as I activated the clutch. The flywheel moves very slightly axially when the clutch is
activated. The rattle could be due to any of the following:
 Clutch cover plate mounting bolts loose - unlikely.
 Flywheel loose - unlikely.
 Clutch friction linings loose.
 Clutch friction disk splines worn.
 Loose bolts on the driveshaft universal joint.
 Play in rear crank bearing or seatings.
 Play in gearbox input shaft bearing or seatings, or too much axial play of input shaft.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
101
28 January 2012
1. Collected a set of clutch parts from Rob Dercksen:
 Diaphragm spring (heavy duty)
 Pressure plate - fairly smooth surface
 Friction disc, with good lining, very bad splines!
 Pressure ring, working face ground flat, to be used with spacer washers & 9mm clutch
 Pressure ring with raised edge to replace spacer washers – also reground. This is only for
use with 7mm thick clutch plates.
2. Rob did not give me the spacer washers = 4mm thick or the slotted screws for the clutch
assembly, or a usable clutch pushrod.
3. Rob asked me to make 16 clutch pushrods from silver steel – he lent me a broken pushrod and a
thrust bearing assembly as a pattern. He said Hennie van Zyl recommended that grooves be
turned to accommodate an o-ring rather than a reduced section for the felt ring.
4. Measured the sample clutch thrust rod:
 Overall length = 203mm (my existing clutch pushrod is only 195mm long)
 Diameter = 7.5mm
 Thrust bearing end reduced to 6mm diameter for a length of 18mm
 Need to order 4000mm of silver steel to fabricate 17 pushrods
5. Measured the thickness of the flat pressure ring = 5.97mm (clutch cover plate).
30 January 2012
1. Returned clutch friction plate with worn splines to Rob Dercksen – swapped it for another clutch
friction plate in very good condition (with Peter).
2. Measured clutch friction plate thickness = 8.5mm (very good)
3. Obtained quotes for silver steel from Metals Centre, JKM and Sanderson Special Steels:
 JKM have 3 x 1m in stock of 8mm Φ = R90.07/m excl VAT
 Metals Centre don‟t have stock of 8mm Φ = R65/m excl VAT, 4 days to order (don‟t stock
7.5mm diameter)
 Sanderson can supply 1m or 2m lengths of 7.5mm Φ silver steel at R38/m excl VAT, and will
deliver.
4. Ordered 2 x 2m lengths of 7.5mm Φ silver steel from Sanderson, paid by EFT = R173.28
5. Jan Cornel does not think that the clutch pushrod needs to be hardened – however, I may harden
the ends a bit!
4 February 2012
0.75 hour (Total = 511.0 hours)
1. Sanded rust off clutch pressure plate.
2. Cleaned “new” clutch friction plate with petrol and BH32 and water. Dried friction plate with
compressed air, and put it in the sun to dry completely.
3. Measured clutch friction plate thickness = 8.5mm (very good), width = 28mm and outer diameter =
180mm. Number of splines = 10.
4. Measured OD of felt oil seal fitted to sample clutch pushrod = 8mm
5. Purchased 20 off 6 x 1 O-rings from BMG (R14) – they look too thin and they do not fit tightly on a
6mm diameter rod. I will have to use smaller 5 x 2 O-rings
6. Measured ID of BMW R80/7 gearbox hollow input shaft = 9mm. However, the clutch pushrod is
8mm diameter. I am guessing that the /2 gearbox hollow input shaft has a diameter of 8.5mm
max to accommodate the 7.5mm diameter pushrod.
7. Placed a 5 x 2 O-ring on a 6mm diameter rod and measured OD = 9.3mm. This will easily be
compressed to 8.4mm OD (10% squeeze).
8. Measured height of diaphragm spring = 17mm
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
102
5 February 2012
2.0 hours (Total = 513.0 hours)
1. Fabricated 2 x 304 stainless steel washers for headlight mounting. OD = 30mm, ID = 8.5mm,
3mm thick. Chamfered and polished on the buffing wheel. Hennie van Zyl mentioned at CMC
that he would like a pair of these washers in s/steel.
2. Removed existing pitted and chromed headlight mounting washers and replaced them with the
new stainless steel washers.
3. Fabricated 1 x stainless steel washer for front axle OD = 32mm, ID = 14.3mm, 4mm thick.
Chamfered and polished on the buffing wheel.
4. Removed 25mm washer from front axle and replaced with new 32mm stainless steel washer.
9 February 2012
1.0 hour (Total = 514 hours)
1. Fabricated one clutch pushrod using the 7.5mm diameter silver steel. Made a single 2mm wide
groove and fitted 5x2 Nitrile O-ring – as a sample.
2. Noted that the broken clutch pushrod sample supplied by Rob Dercksen has 2 different diameters
– the longer portion is 7.5mm and the rear portion is 8.2mm.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
103
11 February 2012
2.0 hours
1. Visited Rob Dercksen and discussed the sample clutch pushrod. He says it is fine, but he would
like 2 o-rings fitted – no problem. He says I must make all 16 clutch pushrods 205mm long.
2. Fabricated 8 more clutch pushrods, and fitted two 5x2 o-rings to each pushrod.
3. Unfortunately, I left the washer part of the clutch thrust bearing assembly at Rob‟s place!
4. I did get a sample oil seal for the clutch pushrod piston at Rob‟s.
12 February 2012
2.0 hours
1. Fabricated 8 more clutch pushrods. Ran out of 5x2 o-rings.
2. Need to purchase 35 off 5x2 o-rings from BMG.
3. Fabricated 2 more 304 stainless steel washers for headlight mounting for Hennie van Zyl. OD =
30mm, ID = 8.5mm, 3mm thick. Chamfered and polished on the buffing wheel.
4. Started bike first kick
5. Rode bike around the suburb – clutch not that vicious.
13 February 2012
0.0 hours
1. Purchased 35 off 5x2 o-rings from BMG = R10-81.
2. Fitted 5x2 o-rings to 8 clutch pushrods.
18 February 2012
1.
2.
3.
4.
0.5 hours
Delivered 16 clutch pushrods to Rob Dercksen.
Collected one clutch thrust washer from Rob Dercksen.
Six of the new clutch pushrods do not fit the clutch thrust washer.
Returned home with 6 clutch pushrods and applied emery cloth to the pushrods until the thrust
washer fitted.
1 April 2012
0.0 hours
1. Visited CMC.
2. Fitted a single BMW 37 – 42 mm Jubilee Clip (hose clamp) to each carb inlet tube.
3. Started bike first kick and rode bike around the suburb for 30 minutes.
6 May 2012
0.0 hours
1. Visited CMC. Rob Dercksen was also there and he asked me to fabricate 30x mild steel clutch
spacers for him. Spacer dimensions are OD = 16mm, ID = 8.5mm, thickness = 3.97mm.
2. Rode bike around the suburb for 30 minutes.
3. Fabricated 15 x clutch spacers on the lathe using leaded FCMS – took me about 1 hour.
12 May 2012
0.0 hours
1. Delivered 30 x clutch spacers to Rob Dercksen – no charge.
27 May 2012
0.0 hours
1. Pumped tyres from 1.5 bar to 2 bar (front) and 2.1 bar (rear)
2. Started bike first kick and rode bike around the suburb for 30 minutes.
3. Trickle-charged battery (4.78V - 6.38V for 3 hours.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
104
12 July 2012
0.5 hours
1. Purchased M8x1 x 20 cap screws (10 off) from President Bolt & Tool in Fordsburg.
2. Turned 45 deg chamfer on inside edge of cap screws for clutch bolts.
17 August 2012
1.
0.0 hours
Neil Darling of Optimum Clutch Systems recommended that I wash the new clutch plate (from
Rob Dercksen) in thinners before using it, to remove any oil. He says the woven facing material
is very good!
09 September 2012
1.
2.
3.
0.0 hours
Checked tyre pressures – both around 2 bar.
Started bike. Initially there were some rattles from the centre stand on the exhaust silencers,
but this cleared up soon. Most likely as a result of shifting the exhaust system to the right to
clear the gear lever.
Rode bike around the suburb for 30 minutes. Gear change much improved, especially if making
slow, deliberate changes.
4 October 2012
1.
0.0 hours
Renewed licence = R192 at Cresta Post Office.
22 November 2012
1.
0.0 hours
Purchased 8x hardened steel flat washers (M10) for cylinder head mounting studs = R8-15 from
Northern Bolt, Midrand.
6 February 2013
1.
0.0 hours
Purchased 6V 4.5 Ahr AGM battery from Current Automation = R68
27 May 2013
1.
0.0 hours
Bought plastic box 160 x 96 x 67 = R81 from Communica for AGM 6V battery.
1 June 2013
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
1.0 hours
Removed 6V lead acid battery from motorcycle – measured voltage = 4.29V. Topped up
battery with de-ionised water and placed battery on charge for a number of hours.
Fitted plastic box for AGM battery with two M6 nickel-plated brass screws and nuts as terminals
for the battery.
Made up short leads fitted with 6.5mm round terminals at one end and female spade terminals
at the other end. Soldered wires to crimp terminals.
Fitted 6V 4.5Ahr AGM battery into plastic box, connected spade terminals on short leads to the
battery terminals.
Cut strips of Styrofoam to wedge battery into plastic box and closed lid with screws provided.
Measured open circuit battery voltage = 6.65V.
Fitted new AGM battery in plastic box into motorcycle frame and connected battery leads.
Checked that all lights work with new battery.
Rode „bike around the suburb for 10 minutes – no problems!
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
105
24 August 2013
1.
2.
3.
0.5 hours
Loosened handlebar riser nuts and moved handlebar risers to the rear pair of holes. Tightened
riser nuts.
Checked tyre pressures: Front = 230kPa, Rear = 250kPa
Rode „bike around the suburb. Definite improvement in riding position. My left wrist is no longer
strained.
24 September 2013
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
2.0 hours
Removed old front engine mounting stud (280mm long).
Fabricated a new front engine mounting stud using 12mm Φ 304 stainless steel, 295mm long,
threaded M12 x 1.5 using a single point tool in the lathe. Cleaned up the threads using an M12
x 1.5 HSS die.
Greased and fitted the new stainless steel front engine mounting stud.
Removed old rear engine mounting stud (315mm long).
Fabricated a new rear engine mounting stud using 12mm Φ 304 stainless steel, 330mm long,
threaded M12 x 1.5 using a single point tool in the lathe.
Greased and fitted the new stainless steel rear engine mounting stud with new galvanised
Nylock nuts.
Checked engine oil level = OK and rode bike around the suburb.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
106
29 September 2013
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
0.5 hours
Drained (old, stale) fuel from tank.
Removed tank mounting bolts and fuel crossover pipe.
Removed fuel tank, removed fuel cock, removed tools from tool compartment, removed knee
pads, and removed tank badges.
Left one key for tool compartment in the lock.
Straightened and fettled the spare top yoke plate (ex-Melville)
BMW R50/2 Contents of Tool Kit
30 September 2013
1.
2.
0.0 hours
Delivered fuel tank and top yoke (ex-Melville) to Mike Lester for spray painting. Mike previously
indicated he wasn‟t happy with the clear coat on the tank and offered to redo it.
Placed fuel cock in petrol to keep cork wet – too late!!.
18 October 2013
1.
0.0 hours
Collected fuel tank and top yoke from Mike Lester.
19 October 2013
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
1.0 hours
Fitted BMW badges and knee pads to fuel tank, placed tools in tool compartment.
Applied Autoglym polish to fuel tank.
Fitted fuel tank to the bike – added a second rubber washer between the tank and the mounting
bracket.
Re-fitted fuel cock and filled the tank with about 7 litres of petrol.
Started bike.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
107
2 November 2013
1.
2.
0.0 hours
Started bike first kick and rode it around the suburb.
Fuel petcock leaks when in the “on” position – all over my left shoe! Looks like I will
need to replace the cork lining again.
8 November 2013
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
0.5 hours
Purchased number plate (BN 58 MM GP) = R100. Mogale City Licensing Office issued me with
a duplicate licence at no charge in order to purchase the number plate.
Fitted the new number plate to the bracket using 4.8mm rivets.
Fitted new licence disc.
Started bike – fuel dribbles freely from the petcock spindle in the “on” position.
Also noticed some oil on the rear gearbox shelf – one of the oil seals is leaking!
9 November 2013
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
1.0 hours
Drained fuel from tank and removed fuel petcock.
Cut away the three small crimped edges and dismantled the fuel petcock – cork lining was
damaged.
Cut a paper template for the cork and marked the positions of the holes from the petcock body.
Cut a new piece of 3mm thick cork (26mm x 50mm) and used the paper as a template to cut the
4 holes using a ¼” hole punch.
Cut the butting edges of the cork at an angle, applied some silicone grease and fitted the cork
lining into the body of the petcock.
Ensured that the holes in the cork lining were open and clear (using a 5mm drill bit) before
refitting the spindle in the petcock.
Refitted the fuel petcock to the fuel tank and filled the tank with the fuel previously removed.
Confirmed that the fuel petcock does not leak in any position and that the fuel passes
freely through the petcock in both “on” positions.
Adjusted clutch cable.
Checked engine oil level = ok
10 November 2013
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
0.0 hours
Rode bike around the suburb – longest trip to date.
No fuel leaks at all.
Clutch action appears a bit smoother and the clutch appears to release more fully.
Seating position quite comfortable and no discomfort on wrists from leaning on handlebars.
Experienced a little instability when riding at 35 – 40mph – wheel and tyre related, or swing arm
bearings, or even steering head bearing related. Nonetheless, a very satisfying ride!
Adjusted idle speed screws slightly to increase idle speed when hot.
Engine casing hot, gearbox casing less hot and final drive about the same temperature as the
gearbox.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
108
DEFECTS (BEFORE):
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
Frame and engine numbers do not match.
Front wheel steel rim (British) narrower than BMW rim (bent spokes).
Missing hinged piece for rear mudguard.
Both front and rear mudguards had been “chopped” – front portion welded on front
mudguard.
Missing front mudguard stay.
Missing tail light.
Missing top engine mounting plate.
Missing lower fuel tank bracket.
Missing mounting bracket for dual seat.
All chrome-electroplated parts were either rusting or flaking.
Brake linings shot.
Rusted components, including engine and gearbox internal, brake drums, etc.
Piston rings badly worn
Conrod small end bushes loose and badly worn
Excessive lateral play in LHS conrod big end (crank webs need to be pressed closer).
Valve guides badly worn, especially exhaust valve guides.
Excessive axial/end play in valve rocker arms.
Spotfacing on valve rocker arm supports worn, allowing headbolts to bind on hex.
Fins broken on valve covers and cylinder heads.
All engine and gearbox oil seals hardened through heat and age.
All frame and wheel oil seals hard through age.
Incorrect handlebar and rubber handgrips.
Incorrect handlebar risers (BMW R68).
Fuel tap cork lining shot.
Fuel cap gasket perished.
Carburettor parts missing – eg idle mixture screw assembly.
Main jets were 105 instead of 120 (for lever-top carbs).
Supplied with one incorrect carb air tube (for R60/2)
No passenger (pillion) foot rests
All rubber parts shot, including bushes, tank knee pads, footrest rubbers, etc.
Incorrect size Yokohama tyres and tubes fitted.
No gearbox cover gasket, and no shims on shafts. Excessive axial play on input shaft.
Gearbox selector forks not adjusted centrally (require bending)
Gearbox selector fork for 3rd/4th gear tips worn.
Centre stand brackets have been modified – stand won‟t come all the way up.
Oil pump gears are worn.
Two valve pushrods have ends that have started cracking – placed at camshaft end.
Speedometer drive gears damaged, but should be workable.
RHS carburettor float chamber pitted, but appears usable.
Camshaft and crankshaft noses have been filed.
Chromed hubcaps and aircleaner dome not standard – should be painted silver.
Domed generator cover too close to Earle‟s Fork – replaced with older flat cover
Bowden cables supplied for clutch and front brake too thin
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
109
IMPROVEMENTS:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Fitted brass vacuum take-off stubs on carburettors to aid synchronisation using the
differential manometer.
Stainless steel fasteners
Stainless steel spokes and nipples
Stainless steel exhaust headers and silencers
Stainless steel cable end caps
Some stainless steel fabricated parts, speedo cable gland, brake swivel pins, etc
Fused (15A) battery positive lead
Fitted 6V 4.5Ahr AGM battery
Sump cover bolts replaced with stainless steel studs.
Sump cover reinforced with flat bar
Eccentric bushes, hardened and tempered silver steel, for gear selector forks.
Used Viton double lip oil seals on engine and gearbox.
Taper roller steering head bearings fitted.
KNOWN DEFECTS (AFTER):
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Frame and engine numbers do not match.
Rear main crank bearing seated on crank with RT20G anaerobic retainer – did not set!
Gearbox selector fork for 3rd/4th gear tips worn – need to be hard-faced and reground.
Gearbox input and output shaft bearing seats in gear case could be tighter.
Excessive lateral play in LHS conrod big end (crank webs need to be pressed closer).
RHS exhaust valve guide is different – fabricated from PB1 bronze by me.
LHS exhaust valve guide (Uli‟s) has been knurled and refitted by me.
Centre stand brackets have been modified.
Oil pump gears are worn.
Two valve pushrods have ends that have started cracking – placed at camshaft end.
Spotfacing on rocker shaft supports has receded. Chamfered hex on headbolts to
compensate.
Flywheel lateral play 0.1mm too much.
Flywheel should have been trued in the lathe and balanced.
Speedometer drive gears damaged, but working.
Differential ignition timing < 6mm between marks
One gearbox cover M6 stud that I replaced appears to be stripped again!
Chromed hubcaps and aircleaner dome not standard – should be painted silver.
Clutch “grabbing”.
Frame/forks slightly out of true.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
110
PARTS FABRICATED
Part Number
32 72 2072217
35 21 4044266
32 72 2072221
46 51 4034227
11 81 4034282
16 11 4080248
16 11 4080194
21 52 1020112
21 52 1080122
23 51 1056124
07 11 9913425
52 53 9034110
31 41 1231201-4
33 53 3064268
13 72 0043118
13 11 0039156
07 11 9940396
11 11 0001184
11 13 007156
51 14 6040110
46 52 4028218
36 31 4038243
13 11 0042146
16 11 4080288
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
Date
Pivot screws for hand levers (stainless steel)
2
14 Oct 07
Bush for clutch hand lever pivot (EN1A Pb)
1
14 Oct 07
Bush for rear brake bell crank (EN1A Pb)
1
20 Oct 07
5/16” BSW cable adjuster for clutch lever
1
27 Oct 07
Engine mounting spacer (EN1A Pb)
1
28 Oct 07
Engine top hanger bracket (2,5mm MS plate)
1
31 Oct 07
Rubber spacers for fuel tank lower mounting
4
31 Oct 07
Petrol tank lower bracket (2,5mm MS plate)
1
03 Nov 07
Cap screw M6 (plated) for clutch lever, modified
1
03 Nov 07
Compression spring for clutch lever
1
04 Nov 07
Cotter pin for kick start lever (EN1A Pb)
1
07 Nov 07
Welded stop on RHS frame for centre stand
1
11 Nov 07
Screw M6 x 10 for breather filter
1
Sandblasted mudguards, seat frame, headlight
13 Nov 07
mounting brackets, centre stand, petrol tank lid
Brazed cracked headlight mounting brackets
2
14 Nov 07
Fabricated side mounting bracket for seat
1
15 Nov 07
Welded bracket on seat frame for side mounting
1
17 Nov 07
Spacer shim under steering yoke
1
1 x M5 and 1 x M4 electrical terminal screws
2
8 Dec 07
Cut Cardan flange – swing arm gasket = paper
2
9 Dec 07
Cut gasket for air filter housing, 2.5mm cork
1
22 Dec 07
Float chamber screws M5 (stainless steel)
4
01 Jan 08
Stainless steel pivot pin for foot brake bell crank
1
01 Jan 08
M6 studs for rear crank bearing housing
5
02 Jan 08
Cut oil sump gasket, 2.5mm cork
1
03 Jan 08
Turned stainless steel 25mm diameter washers
8
05 Jan 08
Bead blasted cylinder heads, tappet covers, front
10 Jan 08
engine cover, slingers, sump (bottle of Rum!)
Cut Nitrile gaskets (1mm) for BMW tank roundels
2
13 Jan 08
Clamping ring for sump, 16 x 3 flat bar
1
26 Jan 08
Another spring for centre stand
1
30 Jan 08
Top hat spacer, front wheel bearing LHS (BMS).
1
9 Feb 08
25mm Φ seal surface, 20mm Φ bore, 30mm Φ
collar, collar = 1.5mm thick, total height = 14mm
Re-upholstered dual seat
1
12 Feb 08
Lock for fuel tank toolbox lid
1
17 Feb 08
Carb mounting flange gasket (cut paper)
4
23 Feb 08
Rubber seal for tank tool box (weather strip)
1
4 Mar 08
Charlie Hamer Tig-welded broken fins on one Lot 20 Mar 08
cylinder head and tappet cover. Also arc welded
front mudguard
Machined welded cooling fins
Lot 20 Mar 08
Bead blasted cyl head, tappet covers again
Lot 26 Mar 08
Stainless steel M6 x 20 sump studs
12 31 Mar 08
5/16” BSW studs to M6 for Roly tappet cover
2
31 Mar 08
Rev 1.1
Cost
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R5-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R15-00
R0-00
R105-00
R0-00
R6-00
R5-70
R0-00
R513-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R150-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
111
PARTS FABRICATED (2)
Part Number
34 11 2060182
11 21 0016268
11 11 0002172
11 41 0052527
16 12 4084110
16 12 4084109
11 41 0052527
07 11 9922093
11 12 0021816
23 21 1030116
23 21 1231658
23 11 1030174
07 11 9913227
07 11 9922036
07 11 9913625
07 11 9922082
07 11 9913444
07 11 9922054
31 41 2000295
23 22 1030176
21 52 1020112
23 22 1030176
07 11 9923412
07 11 9923412
23 11 1338646
07 11 9903214
13 11 0042146
32 72 2072223
23 31 1066186
23 21 1020164
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
Date
Inner pressed sleeve, sheet steel extension Lot 12 Apr 08
pieces, hinge, brackets with M8 threads for rear
mudguard
Sand blasted three parts of rear mudguard ex- Lot 15 Apr 08
Roly Tilman (2 bottles red wine, 1 bottle Scotch –
Rian Emerich)
Front brake swivel pins (s/steel)
2
24 Apr 08
Spacer washer for crankshaft = 47mm OD x
1
29 Apr 08
35mm ID x 3,61mm thick (front)
M4 screw, s/steel, slotted for tail light
1
10 May 08
Cut timing gear cover gasket (Flexoid 0,4mm)
1
17 May 08
Cut cork gasket for oil pump pickup/strainer
1
17 May 08
Red fibre gasket for fuel cock (19mm x 15mm)
1
1 Jun 08
Fibre gasket for fuel cock (21mm x 17,5mm)
1
2 Jun 08
Flexoid 1,5mm gasket for oil pump pickup/strainer
1
5 Jun 08
Turned dome nuts M8 x 1 stainless steel (303) for
4
28 Jun 08
drive shaft tube mounting studs
Turned exhaust valve guide (PB1 bronze)
1
6 July 08
Steel shim washer 1mm thick between cam gear
1
18 Jul 08
and wavy spring washer for engine breather disc
S/steel spacer for steering damper knob (to
1
16 Aug 08
replace mild steel fabrication from previous owner)
Welded M8 stud on rear mudguard
1
30 Aug 08
Turned speedo cable clamp screw (M6), s/steel
1
20 Sep 08
with breather hole
M5 x 10 s/steel hex screw, washer, nut, polished,
2
21 Sep 08
for front mudguard
M8 x 20 s/steel hex screw, washers, nut, polished,
2
21 Sep 08
for front mudguard
M6 x 16 s/steel hex screw, washers, nut, polished,
4
21 Sep 08
for rear mudguard
Turned steering damper bolt, s/steel, M8
1
23 Sep 08
Turned clutch cable bushing, s/steel
1
25 Sep 08
M6 cap screw for clutch lever & Nylock nut
1
25 Sep 08
Speedo cable drive bushing, s/steel polished
1
25 Sep 08
M8 castellated s/steel nuts for steering damper
2
4 Oct 08
M8 castellated s/steel nut for rear brake bell crank
1
4 Oct 08
Exhaust header stubs for cross over tube
2
19 Oct 08
Charlie Hamer welded gearbox casing (gearlever)
1
23 Oct 08
Cut gearbox lid gasket, 0.4mm Velumoid
1
9 Nov 08
Stud M6 x 25 galv, waisted, for gearbox cover
2
9 Nov 08
Tufnol carb flange gasket, heat-resistant
2
15 Nov 08
Perch wedge, silver steel. 18mm long
2
15 Nov 08
Steel washer 8mm for gear selector for cap
2
22 Nov 08
screws
Stop washer (gearbox input shaft), OD = 25, ID =
2
29 Nov 08
15, t =1.11mm (Not used)
Rev 1.1
Cost
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R3-00
R9-00
R50-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R50-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
112
Part Number
23 21 1020216
23 31 1230086
23 31 1066162
23 11 1338646
23 21 1020164
23 21 1230969
23 21 1231655
46 51 4034227
12 13 8004120
13 11 1251395
23 11 1030174
13 21 2072370
36 31 4038243
61 21 8042109
07 11 9988505
34 11 2072444
23 41 1066286
07 11 9921605
23 21 1030168
34 11 2060178
11 14 0002191
32 72 2072221
13 11 0039184
07 11 9931089
07 11 9922155
36 31 3007378
36 31 3004168
36 31 4038173
11 11 0002195
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
Date
Shim (gearbox input shaft), OD = 45, ID = 15mm,
1
29 Nov 08
t = 1.17mm, with joggle
Turned eccentric bushes for gear selector forks
2
11 Dec 08
(hardened and tempered silver steel)
Cut gearbox lid gasket, 0.4mm Flexoid
1
13 Dec 08
Stop washer (gearbox input shaft), OD = 20.75mm
1
15 Dec 08
ID = 15, t =1.75mm
Shim (lay shaft) = 0.60mm x 40mm OD
1
16 Dec 08
Shim (output shaft) = 0.63mm x 47mm OD
1
16 Dec 08
Turned engine mounting spacer (Aluminium)
2
21 Dec 08
2BA screw for sparkplug wire terminal (Magneto)
1
26 Dec 08
Float lever tab, soldered on
1
28 Dec 08
Turned speedo cable clamp screw (M6), s/steel
1
6 Jan 09
with 1.5mm Φ breather hole
Throttle cables:
free length = 110mm
2
9 Jan 09
Outer = 900mm
Inner = 1022mm
Cork liner (3.2mm) for fuel petcock
1
11 Jan 09
Top hat spacer for rear wheel bearing LHS (BMS).
1
24 Jan 09
25mm Φ seal surface, 20mm Φ bore, 30mm Φ
collar, collar 1.5mm thick, total height = 14mm
Rubber pad - battery
1
1 Feb 09
Nipple holder, brass (front brake cable)
1
7 Feb 09
Guide sleeve, s/steel (front brake cable)
1
7 Feb 09
Washer 8mm ID, s/steel (front brake adjuster)
1
8 Feb 09
Nut, M8 x 1 (13mm AF hex), s/steel (front brake
1
8 Feb 09
adjuster)
Flat washer (behind gearbox output shaft castle
1
nut), 15mm ID
Front brake cable adjusting nut, s/steel, 10mm AF
1
7 Apr 09
hex, M6 x 1
Generator cover nut M6, 10mm AF hex, s/steel,
2
18 Apr 09
overall length = 28mm
Knurled locknut for clutch cable adjuster, s/steel
1
26 Jul 09
M8 x 30 s/steel hex screws, polished heads, for
2
10 Oct 09
new (incorrect) handlebar risers (ex Jan Cornel)
M7 x 0.75, 9mm AF s/steel nuts for idle air screw
2
16 Dec 09
Aerotig (Charlie Hamer) welded one fin on tappet
10 Feb 10
cover
Flat washer 304 s/steel 25mm OD, 14.3mm ID,
2
7 Mar 10
3.5mm thick, chamfered and polished (front axle)
Front & rear axle nuts, 22mm hex 304 s/steel,
3
7 Mar 10
M14x1.5, chamfered and polished
1
13 Mar 10
4.0mm thick, chamfered and polished (rear axle)
Spoke retainer, brass
1
23 Jun 10
Generator cover nut M6, 10mm AF hex, s/steel,
2
21 Aug 10
Rev 1.1
Cost
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R10-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R10-00
R0-00
R10-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R35-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
113
Part Number
36 31 4038241
36 31 2060174
13 11 1252179
11 12 0023160
11 11 0001104
61 31 8 050 134
07 11 9931089
21 52 1 080 176
21 21 0 070 511
21 21 1 231 463
11 81 4 034 216
46 51 4 034 210
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
Date
Top hat spacer for front wheel bearing RHS
1
1 Oct 10
(BMS). 25mm Φ oil seal surface, 20mm Φ bore,
30mm Φ collar, collar 1.5mm thick, total length =
10mm
Reducing bush for front wheel bearings set – for
1
1 Oct 10
use on wheel truing/balancing stand
Washer, stainless steel 7mm OD, 2.5mm ID, t =
2
16 Oct 10
1.5mm for carb floats
Carb vacuum take-off stubs, brass 6mm dia
2
1 Jan 11
Nuts, M8 s/steel polished, SW13, valve cover
2
22 Feb 11
Hex nuts, M10 s/steel 14mm AF, cylinder bases
8
17 Mar 11
Flat washer, 304 s/steel, OD = 30mm, ID =
2
5 Feb 12
8.5mm, 3mm thick, polished, headlight mounting
1
5 Feb 12
4mm thick, chamfered and polished (front axle)
Clutch thrust rod, 205mm long. 7.5mm diameter,
1
12 Feb 12
silver steel, 5x2 O-rings
Clutch spacer, 4mm thick
6
Apr 12
Allen CS clutch screw M8x1 x 20
6
12 Jul 12
Battery box for AGM battery
1
1 Jun 13
Front engine mounting stud, 295mm 304 s/steel
1
24 Sep 13
Rear engine mounting stud, 330mm 304 s/steel
1
24 Sep 13
Rev 1.1
Cost
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R10-00
R0-00
R22-38
R81-00
R25-00
R25-00
114
PARTS PROCURED
Part Number
36 31 4038258
36 31 4038230
07 11 9985005
07 11 9985010
07 11 9914053
07 11 9922121
26 11 3038225
46 71 1235428
23 41 1232116
16 11 1230263
11 61 0043161
61 21 8042138
46 53 4034150
11 11 0001106
13 11 0042149
13 11 0039274
13 11 0039181-5
13 11 0042126
13 11 0039527
13 11 0039168
13 11 1251394
13 11 0042150
32 72 1230868
13 72 0043524
52 53 9034111
11 14 0002197
11 14 1256562
23 51 1006135
31 41 2000331
23 11 1006124
36 31 4038258
36 31 4038230
07 11 9985005
31 42 2000000
16 11 4080187/9
11 11 0001122
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
Oil seal TC 25 x 38 x 7 (wheel hubs) Nitrile
Oil seal TC 25 x 35 x 7 (front hub) Nitrile
30203 taper roller bearing (swing arms)
30204 taper roller bearing (wheel hubs)
M8 x 1 bolts for petrol tank mounting
M10 x 1 nuts for front suspension mounting
M8 x 50 s/steel bolt for brake bell crank
M8 x 75 s/steel bolt for gearbox mounting
M12 x 1.5 Nylock nuts for engine
mountings
M8 x 40 s/steel bolts
Rubber sleeve for drive shaft (Hypoid oil)
Foot peg rubbers
Gear lever rubber sleeve
Nitrile gasket for petrol cap
Sleeve for carb air pipe on carb side
Rubber strap for battery
Passenger foot rests
Rubber plug for timing hole
O-ring for carb slide covers
Jet Needles #46-255 for carbs, new
Air regulating screw, complete, used
Small gasket for idle jet plug screw
Slide stop screw & spring, used
Slide spring (8mm dia x 70mm long), used
Float needle, new
Gasket for float cover, new
Magura hand grip R/H, new
Air filter element, used
Front seat mounting bracket (used)
Oil seal 20 x 32 x 7 (gen journal) Viton
Oil seal 25 x 35 x 7 (magneto hub) Viton
Oil seal 17 x 28 x 7 (kickstart, Nitrile 2 lip)
Oil seal 22 x 40 x 8(10) (swing arms, Nitrile)
Oil seal 15 x 24 x 7 (gear lever, Nitrile 2 lip)
Oil seal 25 x 38 x 7 (wheel hubs, Nitrile)
Oil seal 25 x 35 x 7 (wheel hubs, Nitrile)
M10 x 35 s/steel bolts & nuts (centre stand)
M10 s/steel nuts (cylinders) SW17
51W/34W taper roller bearings (steer hub)
Tank knee pads
6207 crank bearing, NTN
6203 camshaft bearing, Rollway
6004 generator bearing, KBC
Oil seal 52 x 72 x 10 (crank rear, Viton)
1
1
2
4
2
4
1
1
4
R8-50
R8-50
R40-00
R120-00
R2-95
R3-40
R34-00
4
1
2
1
1
2
1
2
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
2
8
2
2
2
2
2
1
1
R14-20
R70-00
R60-00
R15-00
R15-00
R40-00
R30-00
R80-00
R10-00
R1-00
R140-00
R20-00
R4-00
R12-00
R5-00
R45-00
R8-00
R50-00
R40-00
R20-00
R28-73
R55-03
R6-81
R32-54
R6-59
R8-14
R7-16
Rev 1.1
Cost
Supplier
Tvl Bearings
Tvl Bearings
Tvl Bearings
Tvl Bearings
JKM
JKM
Bolt & Nut
Bolt & Nut
R14-47 JKM
R78-00
R280-00
R450-00
R76-86
R30-64
R16-43
R70-70
JKM
CMC
CMC
Jan Cornel
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Invicta
Invicta
Invicta
Invicta
Invicta
Invicta
Invicta
JKM
JKM
Invicta
Ed Korn = $32
Jan Cornel
Invicta
Invicta
Invicta
Invicta
115
PARTS PROCURED (2)
Part Number
07 12 9948811
11 61 0043163
61 13 8080160
31 41 2000324
61 13 8070196
33 53 3054296
12 12 8036163
36 31 4001004
36 31 4038258
62 12 8080115
23 11 3038513
23 11 1006179
31 41 2054234
16 12 4084120
16 12 1233520
32 72 1230407
11 11 0033163
11 11 0010161
11 12 0022118
11 12 0023025
11 25 1256483
11 24 0017150
11 21 0016132
11 21 0016130
11 12 0021804
07 11 9985005
07 11 9913457
07 11 9922054
07 11 9911605
07 11 9921606
07 11 9913439
07 11 9922054
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
S42/9 hose clamps for carb air pipes
3
Gasket for air pipe on transmission housing
2
Rubber sleeve for speedo cable
1
Rubber plug for holes on front swing arm
2
Grommet for headlamp shell
1
Silent blocs for rear suspension (OD = 25mm
2
ID = 12mm, L = 20mm)
D-shaped grommet for top of motor (elec)
1
HT cable for spark plugs
1m
MS strips for sump, 16 x 3mm thick (3m)
1
Wavy washers, s/steel for rear brng housing
5
Tyres, new 3.50 x 18 Metzeler ME22
2
Tube 3.50 x 18 (King Tube)
1
Oil seal 25 x 38 x 7 Nitrile (rear wheel)
1
Rubber O-ring for speedometer
1
Oil seal 30 x 40 x 7 (g/box input, Viton)
1
Oil seal 36 x 54 x 7 (g/box output, Nitrile)
1
Silent bloc front (OD=22, ID=10, L=16mm)
4
Side stand
1
Rubber beading for tail light fitting
1
Rubber stop for centre stand
1
Rear mudguard for R68, R51/3 (gave to Roly
1
Tilman in exchange for parts)
Top nut for Everbest fuel cock (used)
1
Fuel cock fibre gasket, new (returned to Jan)
1
Magura hand grip L/H, new
1
Valve pushrod tube rubber seal, new
4
Cylinder base gasket, 0.5mm Aluminium
2
Cylinder head gasket, new = spare
2
Tappet cover gasket, new
2
Set of piston rings, 1st oversize (68,5mm)
2
Conrod bushing 20mm, new
2
Woodruff key for flywheel, new
1
Lock/spring washer for rear crank bearing
1
Valve guides, standard size, new
4
Total for the above parts from Jan Cornel:
M6 x 15 s/steel hex screw, washers, nut for
front mudguard
M8 x 16 s/steel hex screw, washer, nut, for
rear mudguard
M6 x 16 s/steel hex screw, washers, nut, for
rear mudguard
Rev 1.1
2
2
Cost
R2-00
R40-00
R15-00
R30-00
R10-00
R50-00
Supplier
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
R10-00
R8-00
R18-00
R0-00
R650-00
R50-00
R8-00
R0-00
R38.51
R21-49
R100-00
R25-00
R10-00
R20-00
R650-00
CMC
Blitz
Fleet Steel
Stock
Mosskays
Mosskays
Bearing Man
Stock
Bearing Man
Bearing Man
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
CMC
E1.68
E0.25
E5.62
E13.68
E5.04
E8.06
E6.38
E32.72
E12.78
E1.28
E1.51
E26.20
R1700-00
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
R78-00 Invicta (BMG)
R0-00 Stock
1
R0-00 Stock
2
R0-00 Stock
116
PARTS PROCURED (3)
Part Number
13 11 1252178
13 11 0042111
23 51 4034257
11 34 0026110
61 32 8048185
12 12 8002172
61 31 8048165
46 61 5090116
07 11 9919216
07 11 9912455
46 62 5096122
11 11 0002172
11 34 1251472
11 61 0043175
11 11 0001106
63 12 8050157
62 12 8080180
18 11 4090110
12 31 8002106
36 31 4038217
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
Float guide pins for carbs
2
Rubber sleeve for throttle cable at carb
2
Kick start rubber bumper
1
Inner valve spring
2
Valve spring set (2 x outer, 2 x inner)
1
Ignition switch cover slide
1
Spring, ignition advance, 9mm
1
Brake light switch
1
Front fender brace 18”
1
Drain plug driveshaft 14mm hex, M10x1
1
Speedo chrome bezel VDO
1
HiLo switch chrome universal dim/bright
1
Idle jet slotted #40 = spare
2
TOTAL incl VAT & shipping from Uli‟s:
M8 x 30 s/steel hex screw, washers, nut, for
2
rear mudguard
12 x M6 x 25 s/steel bolts, 12 x M6 s/steel Lot
Nylock nuts, 6 x M8 s/steel Nylock nuts, 4 x
M8 x 30 s/steel bolts & nuts
Rear mudguard, tail light, used, complete
1
Timing gear cover gasket
1
Exhaust valve (1126), new, plus
2
Bracket hardware for kickstart rubber, new
1
Carb air pipe (RHS), used
1
Grommet for speedo cable at headlamp
1
Rubber plug for timing hole
1
Rubber plugs for mudguard holes
2
Rubber washer 30mm OD at headlight
4
Courier charge pro rata for Bill Speight parts
1
Seal ring headlight lens, new
1
Rubber boot for throttle cables on perch, new
1
Speedo cable, new
1
Exhaust nut, new
1
Generator brushes, new
2
Reinforced rubber fuel hose (ID = 6mm) new 1m
Bushing for ignition key, used
1
Alloy wheel, complete, used
1
Steel wheel rim 2.15 x 18” chrome plated
1
(Stamped 245 1 64 410 41), used, rusted
Rev 1.1
Cost
E3.60
E3.00
E8.90
E5.80
E12.00
E2.92
E1.70
E5.95
E23.15
E2.56
E15.70
E11.19
E5.24
E110-00
R0-00
Supplier
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Uli‟s
Paid to P. Beukes
Stock
R47-10 JKM
R1200 John Wightman
R5-00 CMC
R678-00 Uli‟s (P Beukes)
R20-00
R10-00
R10-00
R 8-00
R 8-00
R15-00
E1-50
E2-20
E13-40
E10-25
E5-00
R15-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
CMC
Bill Speight
Bill Speight
Bill Speight
Bill Speight
Speed Services
Uli‟s (1007)
Uli‟s (30037)
Uli‟s (1016)
Uli‟s (9016)
Uli‟s (1019)
ProAuto Rubber
Jan Cornel
Roly Tilman
Roly Tilman
117
PARTS PROCURED (4)
Part Number
61 13 8070232
18 12 4090087
18 12 4090088
07 11 9963470
07 11 9981214
07 11 9981219
07 11 9981408
07 11 9981416
07 11 9982409
07 11 9951461
07 11 9934100
18 11 4090073
32 71 2072129
26 11 3038225
36 31 4038230
13 72 0043536
36 31 4001004
36 32 4038195
07 12 9948830
07 12 9948839
36 31 4038222
36 32 4038195
12 31 8030106
12 12 8002172
12 12 1353604
13 72 1250389
11 12 0022118
36 31 4038217
07 11 9912455
51 16 2072296
12 11 9058248
32 71 2072306
71 11 9090070
21 52 2072321
61 33 8046030
24 December 2013
Description
Qty
Cost
Cable clips, used
2
R0-00
Exhaust silencer s/steel (RHS), new
1
R700-00
Exhaust silencer s/steel (LHS), new
1
R700-00
Rubber boots for plug caps, new
2
R2-00
Exhaust copper crush gaskets 35x41x2.5
2
R20-00
Gearbox bearing 6203 C3 SKF
1
R26-31
2
R61-61
1
R30-84
1
R34-82
Gearbox bearing 3203 B TVH C3 FAG
1
R140-00
Woodruff key 4 x 6.5mm, g/box output shaft
1
R3-81
17 x 1 mm external circlip, g/box output shaft
2
R0-55
Exhaust headers, fabricated & electroplated
2
R500-00
Handle bar, used but newly electroplated
1
R250-00
M12 x 30 s/steel bolt, passenger foot rests
2
R15-00
Cork gasket material 3.2mm for fuel petcock
1
R82-00
In-line fuel filters
2
R30-00
6V 3W lamp for parking light
1
R8-00
Battery (B49-6), 6V 8Ahr, new
1
R160-00
Rubber sleeve for drive shaft (Hypoid oil)
1
R75-00
Oil seal TC 25 x 35 x 6, Nitrile
2
R10-00
O-ring for air filter element (6 x 55mm)
1
R30-00
Inner tube 3.50” x 18”
1
R111-00
Rim tape 18”
1
A70/9 hose clamp, used
1
R0-00
A90/9 hose clamp, used
1
R0-00
New front brake bonded linings (4mm thick) Lot R100-00
and drum skimmed
140mm x M4 chromed spokes, with nipples, 70
R1470Uli‟s part #6044
00
New rear brake bonded linings (4mm thick) Lot R162-00
and drum skimmed
Rim tape, 18” new
1
R16-00
Condensor (Echlin EP258), new
1
R25-00
Spring, ignition advance, 9mm
1
R0-00
Spark plug caps, NGK LZFH, new
2
R0-00
Air filter element, BMW OEM Purolator 1042
1
R396-22
Cylinder head gasket, BMW OEM, new
2
R65-00
Steel wheel rim 2.15 x 18” chrome plated
1
R300-00
(Stamped 245 1 64 410 41), used, buckled
S/Steel M8 x 30 bolts for handlebar risers
6
R26-20
Rear view mirrors (Taiwan), new
2
R140-00
Ignition point set, new
1
R0-00
Handlebar risers, used
2
R0-00
Tyre pump (E20 x R11.08)
1
R220-00
Clutch cable (E7.20 x R11.08)
1
R80-00
Horn 6V, chrome, new
1
R220-00
Rev 1.1
Supplier
Roly Tilman
Jeff Talbot
Jeff Talbot
Blitz
Jan Cornel
SKF
SKF
SKF
SKF
Bearing & Belting
JKM
JKM
CMC
Jan Cornel
JKM
Wizard Midas
Randburg M/Cycle
Randburg M/Cycle
Jan Cornel
CMC/Bill Speight
BMG
BMG
Randburg M/Cycle
House of BM
House of BM
Hercules Brake &
Clutch
Uli‟s (via R&S)
CBF, Strijdom Park
Randburg M/Cycle
Blitz Motor Spares
Jan Cornel
NGK Spark Plugs
Northside M/c
Northside M/c
Jan Cornel
JKM
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Melville Price
P Beukes (Uli‟s)
P Beukes (Uli‟s)
Jan Cornel
118
PARTS PROCURED (5)
Part Number
36 32 4038195
18 11 4090073
18 11 4090074
18 11 4090248
13 11 0039527
13 11 0039187
36 31 4038173
32 72 2072223
11 14 0002177/8
07 11 9978006
07 11 9963086
07 11 9963242
33 12 3004337
33 12 3004343
33 12 3038257
07 11 9933642
13 11 0039187
13 11 1251395
13 11 0039181
34 11 2072345
13 11 0 039 241
21 21 0 070 182
21 21 0 070 166
21 21 0 070 060
21 21 0 070 157
21 21 0 070 149
24 December 2013
Description
M8 x 20 s/steel hex screw, nut, washer,
spring washer, for horn mounting
Rim tape, 18”, new
Exhaust pipe L, 304 s/steel, new
Exhaust pipe R, 304 s/steel, new
Exhaust balance tube, 304 s/steel, new
Idle stop screw & spring (used)
Float 7g (used)
Spoke retainer, brass (new)
Perch wedge, hardened (used)
Engine/generator cover, flat (NOS)
External circlip, 10mm
6V 35/35W headlamp globe, new
Copper washer for M10 plugs
Copper washer for M14 plugs
Oil seal 30 x 42 x 7 (final drive), Nitrile
20mm x 230 mm 431 s/steel for front axle
25mm x 430mm 431 s/steel for rear axle
Piston pin circlip C20
Float 7gr
Float lever, new version
Mixture regulation screw, long
Brake cable, new
Carb main jet 120
Licence disc holder, Sterling
Clutch diaphragm spring, heavy duty,
used
Clutch pressure plate, used
Clutch friction disc, 8.5mm thick, used
Clutch pressure ring, flat (only for use
with 9mm clutch friction plate), to be used
with 511 hardened spacer washers, used
Clutch pressure ring, stepped (only for
use with 7mm clutch friction plate), used
Through-hardened steel flat washer,
cylinder head studs
CSB GP645, 6V 4.5Ahr AGM battery
Plastic box 160x96x67 for battery
Rev 1.1
Qty
1
Cost
Supplier
R0-00 Stock
3
1
1
1
1
1
3
2
1
2
1
2
2
1
1
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
R15-00 CMC
R1544-70 Powerflow
Powerflow
Powerflow
R0-00 Roly Tilman
R0-00 Roly Tilman
R0-00 Jan Cornel
R0-00 Jan Cornel
R0-00 Craig Patterson
R0-35 JKM
R0-00 Mike Lester
R5-00 JKM
R4-55 JKM
R6-76 BMG
R15-89 BMG
R35-00 Diversified Alloys
R65-00 Diversified Alloys
R15-00 BMG
E5.00 Uli‟s 14202
E23.50 Uli‟s 8049
E1.75 Uli‟s 51395
E5.80 Uli„s 18049s
E8.10 Uli‟s 5055
R0-00 Jan Cornel swap
R14-00 Main Reef Midas
R0-00 Rob Dercksen
1
1
1
R0-00 Rob Dercksen
R0-00 Rob Dercksen
R0-00 Rob Dercksen
1
R0-00 Rob Dercksen
8
R8-50 Northern Bolt
1
1
R68-00 Current Autom‟n
R81-00 Communica
119
STAINLESS STEEL PARTS
Part Number
07 11 9913625
07 11 9922082
13 11 0039156
07 11 9940396
31 41 2000345
34 11 2060182
07 11 9922093
07 11 9913227
07 11 9922036
07 11 9913625
07 11 9922082
07 11 9913444
07 11 9922054
31 41 2000295
23 22 1030176
23 22 1030176
07 11 9923412
07 11 9923412
23 11 1030174
34 11 2072444
23 41 1066286
07 11 9921605
34 11 2060178
11 14 0002191
32 72 2072221
13 11 0039184
07 11 9931089
07 11 9922155
36 31 3007378
36 31 3004168
07 11 9912505
07 11 9912551
07 11 9912620
07 11 9922110
07 11 9932070
07 11 9912455
07 11 9931065
24 December 2013
Description
M8 x 20 hex screw, nut, washer, spring
washer, for horn mounting
Screws M5 x 16, carb float chamber
Pivot pin for foot brake bell crank (304)
Flat washer 25mm OD, 10.5mm ID bevelled
polished, shock mounting, fork yoke plate
M6 x 20 studs, engine sump cover
Front brake swivel pins (304), polished
M4 screw, slotted for tail light
Dome nuts M8 x 1 (303) for drive shaft tube
mounting studs, polished (special)
M5 x 10 hex screw, washer, nut, polished, for
front mudguard
M8 x 20 hex screw, washers, nut, polished, for
front mudguard
M6 x 16 hex screw, washers, nut, polished, for
rear mudguard
Steering damper bolt, M8 (special)
Clutch cable bushing, polished
Speedo cable drive bushing, polished
M8 castellated nuts for steering damper
M8 castellated nut for rear brake bell crank
Speedo cable clamp hex screw (M6x20), with
1.5mm Φ breather hole, polished
Guide sleeve, front brake cable
Washer 8mm ID, front brake adjuster
Nut M8x1 (13mm hex), front brake adjuster
Front brake cable adjusting nut, 10mm AF
hex, M6 x 1 (special)
Generator cover nut M6, 10mm AF hex,
28mm long, s/steel
Knurled locknut for clutch cable adjuster
M7 x 0.75, 9mm AF nuts for idle air screw
Flat washer s/steel 25mm OD, 14.3mm ID,
3.5mm thick, chamfered polished (front axle)
Front & rear axle nuts, 22mm hex 304 s/steel,
M14x1.5, chamfered and polished
Flat washer s/steel 32mm OD, 14.3mm ID,
4.0mm thick, chamfered polished (rear axle)
Hex bolt M8 x 50 for brake bell crank
Hex bolt M8 x 75 for gearbox mounting
Hex bolt M10 x 35 & nuts (centre stand)
Hex nut M10 (cylinders) SW17
Wavy washer B6, crank rear b/ring housing
M8 x 30 hex screw for rear mudguard stay
Flat washer 8.4 for rear mudguard & stay
Rev 1.1
Qty
1
Cost
Supplier
R0-00 Stock
4
1
8
R0-00 Fabricated
R0-00 Fabricated
R0-00 Fabricated
12
2
1
4
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R9-00
2
R0-00 Fabricated
2
R0-00 Fabricated
4
R0-00 Fabricated
1
1
1
2
1
1
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
1
1
1
1
R0-00
R0-00
R10-00
R10-00
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Stock Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
2
R0-00 Fabricated
1
2
2
R0-00 Fabricated
R0-00 Fabricated
R0-00 Fabricated
3
R0-00 Fabricated
1
R0-00 Fabricated
1
1
2
8
5
2
4
R34-00 Bolt & Nut
Bolt & Nut
JKM
JKM
R0-00 Stock
R0-00 Stock
R0-00 Stock
120
STAINLESS STEEL PARTS (2)
Part Number
46 62 5096152
46 62 5096152
07 11 9913457
07 11 9922054
07 11 9911605
07 11 9921606
07 11 9913439
07 11 9922054
07 11 9913891
07 11 9936246
11 11 0002195
13 11 1252179
11 12 0023160
07 11 9932094
07 11 9914345
07 11 9914347
07 11 9922110
07 11 9933109
07 11 9914625
07 11 9921626
11 11 0001104
61 31 8050134
07 11 9931089
11 81 4034216
46 51 4034210
24 December 2013
Description
M8 dome nuts for rear mudguard & stay
M8 dome nuts for top engine mounting
M6 x 15 hex screw, washers, nut for front
mudguard
M8 x 16 hex screw, washer, nut, for rear
mudguard
M6x16 hex screw, washers, nut, rear
mudguard
12 x M6 x 25 bolts, 12 x M6 Nylock nuts, 6 x
M8 Nylock nuts, 4 x M8 x 30 bolts & nuts
Hex bolt M12 x 30, passenger foot rests
Lock washer 12.5mm, passenger footrests
Generator cover nut M6, 10mm AF hex,
s/steel, overall length = 38mm
Washer, stainless steel 7mm OD, 2.5mm ID, t
= 1.5mm, carb floats
Hex nut, 13mm AF, s/steel M8, valve covers
B8 wavy washers, valve covers
Hex bolt M10 x 45mm, front shock upper
Hex bolt M10 x 50mm, front shock lower
Hex nut M10, A4, front shock mounting
Lock washer 10mm, front shock mounting
Hex bolt M12 x 45mm, rear shock mounting
Hex nut M12, A2, rear shock mounting
Hex nut, M10 s/steel 14mm AF, cylinder base
Flat washer, OD = 30mm, ID = 8.5mm, 3mm
thick, bevelled, polished, headlight mounting
Flat washer 32mm OD, 14.3mm ID, 4mm
thick, chamfered and polished (front axle)
Front engine mounting stud, 295mm s/steel
Rear engine mounting stud, 330mm s/steel
Rev 1.1
Qty
4
2
2
Cost
Supplier
R0-00 Stock
R0-00 Stock
R0-00 Stock
1
R0-00 Stock
2
R0-00 Stock
Lot
R47-10 JKM
2
2
2
R15-00 JKM
R0-00 Stock
R0-00 Fabricated
2
R0-00 Fabricated
2
2
2
2
4
4
1
1
8
2
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R7-65
R2-75
R0-00
R0-00
1
R0-00 Fabricated
1
1
R25-00 Fabricated
R25-00 Fabricated
Fabricated
Stock
Stock
Stock
Stock
Stock
JKM
JKM
Fabricated
Fabricated
121
TOOLS PROCURED
Part Number
Matra 442
Matra 338/1
Description
Qty
Matra R1/7 BMG valve guide reamer 7K7
1
C/pin-spanner for exhaust clamps
1
Multi spanner
1
Heyco flat spanner 10/11
1
Heyco flat spanner 12/13
1
Walter flat spanner 10/13
1
V 5030
Magneto/generator extractor M8 bolt (HT)
1
Swing arm bearing extractor
1
Matra 292
Flywheel clamp & multi-tool
1
Gedore 41mm socket ¾” drive
1
¾” to ½” converter for 41mm socket
1
Set metric tube spanners (Fragram)
1
Matra 534
M8 x 1 x 30mm bolts for flywheel removal (HT)
3
Tommy bar for toolkit
1
5127
Mild steel drift for valve guide replacement
1
Inclined block for cyl head valve guide work
1
Matra 530a
Aluminium drift to set valve pushrod tubes
1
V 5035
Wood support for conrod & piston
2
W 5039
Pressure cylinder to refit crank shaft gear
1
Matra 311
Flywheel puller using M16 x 1,5 x 40mm bolt &
1
nut, 2 x M10 x 1 x 25 HT bolts, 12mm plate
Wheel tube (wheel bearing removal and fit)
1
W 5038
Pressure bush (pipe)
1
V 5040
Pressure bush (pipe)
1
Pliers (Hapewe)
1
Tyre levers Magura
2
Plug spanner
1
Reversible screwdriver
1
Plug spanner
1
Feeler gauge
1
Matra 494/3
Gearbox output flange castellated nut driver
1
Angle iron vise-mounting bracket for gearbox
1
Matra 501
Puller for flange on gearbox output shaft
1
Matra 500
Gearbox output flange clamp/stay
1
Spoke wrench, using 16mm Φ EN8
1
Points setting tool
1
Spark plug extensions (for shorting out plugs)
2
Matra 517
Heavy duty wheel hub pin spanner (36 3 650)
1
111 600
Pushrod tube hollow drift
1
Matra 529
Clutch centring arbour
1
Matra 513
T-handle pin spanner (rear swing arm adjuster)
1
Wheel trueing/balancing stand
1
Carb float lever height gauge
1
71119090123 Spanner 36/41mm, steering head
1
Spanner 14mm ring/flat, ground & bent
1
506a
Pin wrench, final drive pinion removal
1
6V constant voltage battery charger (AGM)
1
Gearbox cover, milled flat
1
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
Cost
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R10-00
R10-00
R10-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R16-00
Supplier
Al Gibson
Jimmy D***
Zane Mannell
Piston Ring Club
Piston Ring Club
Piston Ring Club
Fabricated/JKM
Fabricated
Fabricated
Piston Ring
Tool Shop
Just Tools
JKM
Stock
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated (JKM)
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R20-00
R0-00
R10-00
R11-40
R11-40
R16-79
R10-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R0-00
R8-50
R13-00
R60-00
R0-00
R0-00
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Piston Ring Swap
Stock
Piston Ring Swap
Autozone
Autozone
Unnic Midas
Fabricated/Makro
Stock/Fabricated
Zane Mannell
Stock/Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated Fleet St
ExecuPawn
Fabricated
Fabricated
Fabricated
R0-00
R0-00
R50-00
R70-00
R20-00
122
NOTES
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
Brake pedal stops against foot peg rubber – confirmed by Jan Cornel.
Clymer workshop manual only - (there is no Haynes manual for an R50/2). Found a Chilton‟s
Repair & Tune-Up Guide at “Bike Hospital”.
Neutral indicator provides a short to earth (when in neutral)
Use 3 x M8 x 1 bolts and nuts to remove clutch
Clutch plate = F&S, pressure plate = BMW part for /5, spring diaphragm looks new.
Clutch push rod appears to have been shortened to 195mm (original length could be 205mm).
There is also a sleeve fitted to the clutch push rod at the thrust bearing end.
Gearbox bell housing webs have been ground to clear bolts on later clutch/pressure plate.
Exhaust thread on cylinder heads = M45 x 2
Improved steering head bearing = SSW055 or MCI 51W & 34W taper roller bearings (34 x 51 x
12mm). Note: The /5 taper roller bearings cannot be used!
Pistons = 1st oversize = 68.42mm, clearance spec = 0.08mm. Markings on piston crown =
68.42, Sp 0.08, Vorn, C1, Made in Germany, 150E 059. Markings inside piston = 1275, 068079,
4.2 (all cast into the inside wall of the piston) no manufacturer.
Rule-of-thumb for piston ring end gaps is 0.004” to 0.005” per inch of bore for air-cooled engines
(0.1mm to 0.125mm per 25.4mm of bore). The BMW spec is 0.25mm to 0.4mm, compared with
the rule of thumb of 0.27mm to 0.34mm for a bore of 68,5mm.
Jan Cornel confirmed making M6 studs for sump cover is preferable to M6 bolts. Done.
Al Gibson says use Caustic Soda to remove muck from slingers.
Suitable tyres = Metzeler ME22 3.50 x 18; Michelin Macadam 50 100/90 x 18; Bridgestone S11
100/90 x 18, Yokohama 100/90 x 18; Cheng Shin Hi Max C906 100/90 x 18
Metzeler ME22 tread depth = 6mm when new.
Shidawei Rubber say Nitrile better for fuel resistance than Neoprene.
Smear a thin layer of silicon grease inside tube portion of pushrod tube rubbers when fitting.
Al Gibson says Phosphor Bronze is not a good idea for exhaust valve guides – he has had
cases where the material burns away to a chalky substance. He says use Aluminium Bronze for
valve guides - exhausts need a bit more clearance than inlets (he thinks 2.5 thou for exhausts).
Blueprint Engineering quoted me R1400 incl VAT for 2 x cylinder head recon. They make their
own valve guides from phosphor bronze. They send out rocker tip grinding to Camtech
Set carbs leaner for high compression R50S pistons.
Note that to remove wheel bearings, use the Duane Ausherman method – insert axle from the
“wrong” direction, use a pipe spacer and tighten the axle nut to contain the bearing assembly as
a unit. Then tap the entire bearing assembly out of the hub using a rubber mallet or nylon
hammer. The same pipe spacers are used to set the preload. To refit the bearings, place the
axle through the bearing assemble from the correct direction, fit the pipe spacer and tighten the
axle nut (nipped). Tap the entire bearing assembly back into the hub from the “threaded” end,
taking care to ensure that the axle is straight.
Peter Posniak says hydrochloric acid will remove chrome plating, then sand or wire brush to
remove the nickel layer.
Mark Bell of Pratley‟s advised Pratley Quickset White for ceramic, but maximum temp is still
only 100 – 120 deg C.
Craig Harmse of Chemence confirmed RT20G = high temperature retainer.
New piston rings from Uli‟s were NOT marked “TOP”. The top ring is chromed and the bevel on
the inside of the ring faces the TOP of the piston. The second ring appears to be a PLAIN ring.
Only one is marked TOP – difficult to say which side is TOP on the other ring. The oil ring is
fitted with the bevel/chamfer on the outer edge at the TOP. Uli telephonically confirmed he
would post a new second ring to me at their expense. A set of two middle rings (with steps) was
received in the post from Uli‟s on 3 April 2008 (Customs clearance = R12-00). Note that the
steps face down on the piston.
Charlie Hamer of Aero Tig says to weld Aluminium use Tig AC.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
123
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
New valve guides are 43mm long vs 50mm for the old guides. Length from top of guide to top
of circlip = 8,5mm (new) and 15,9mm (old). Jan Cornel says the 43mm long guides are fine.
Also, the next time guides need to be replaced use the next oversize OD = 13,15mm or larger.
Jan Cornel also recommended light knurling of loose valve guide to fit oversize hole. Preferable
to use straight knurling.
Mike Lester confirmed tubular rear mudguard stays are 12mm diameter thin wall tubing with
4mm thick plate (shaped) welded to ends. He suggested screws instead of rivets to attach the
stays to the mudguard – peen the ends of screws beyond the nuts.
Mike Lester provided dimensions of front brake cable swivels = 10mm diameter, with 4mm wide
groove to result in 5mm diameter step, and 1mm wide end piece. Hole through swivel to suit
brake cable adjuster = 6,2mm diameter, length through yoke = 15,5mm.
Battery = Yuasa B38-6A 13 Ahr, 6V (L x W x H=119 x 83 x 161mm = 411/16“ x 3¼” x 65/16”). My
battery = MS B49-6, 8 Ahr (Maan Shyang) from Battery Centre.
Rotate front brake adjuster anticlockwise to reduce free play (rotate clockwise to increase play
between leading brake shoe and drum)
For refitting, Jan heats crankshaft gear on a metal plate with oxy-acetylene flame until it just
starts to change colour.
Mark Huggett (slash2 Group) says ACM (acrylic rubber) or FKM (Fluoride rubber) material is
used in applications with hypoid oil due to their high chemical and temperature resistance. NBR
(Nitrile) seals are only hypoid resistant to 80 deg C and harden when exposed to hypoid oils.
NBR is also not suitable for the rear crank main seal due to the high temperature experienced
(in excess of 120 deg C) – he recommends the KACO silicon seal for this application.
Mark Huggett also says use 6207 bearings with massive aluminium or brass cages made out of
2 halves riveted together (BMW part # 07 11 9 981 245) or with Pertinax cages. The rear
bearing can exceed 120 deg C. Most modern standard 6207 bearings use a thin steel cage
which is spot welded together and cannot carry the load (DIN625) in the BMW motors. At one
stage BMW specified nylon cages (TN), but these are no longer available. Do not use
bearings with modern glass fibre reinforced polyamide cages which are only suitable up
to 80 deg C. Plastic cages become hard and brittle at 120 deg C and also fail with time.
Ron Cichowski (slash2 Group) says the connection between the crank and the flywheel is
supposed to be assembled clean and dry. It is a locking taper and transmits the torque of the
engine to the transmission. The Woodruff key is only used to locate the timing marks correctly
and there must be a clearance between the top of the key and the flywheel taper keyway to
prevent runout of the flywheel lateral face. Note that the keyway in the flywheel taper will NOT
push the Woodruff key into alignment – the key must be correctly seated in its slot first.
BMW Service Bulletin 5/66 (234) states that for the later rotating valves, the exhaust valve
guides must be counterbored 8mm diameter for a distance of 5mm on the port side to prevent
seizing of valves.
BMW Service Bulletin 12/59 (166) says heat cylinder head to 356 deg F (180 deg C) to remove
old valve guides.
BMW Service Bulletin 8/67 (258) states that the flywheel mounting screw must be tightened to
159 + 14.5ft.lbs (22 + 2mkp) = 225 - 230Nm.
Bronze valve guides should be reamed dry.
Use a THIN layer of Hylomar on both sides of the cylinder base gasket.
Install cylinder head and tappet cover gaskets DRY.
Ron Cichowski of the Slash2 Group recommends cutting a clearance slot in the rubber pushrod
tube seals purchased from Uli‟s in order to ensure that the oil splash hole from the engine
casing to the pushrod tubes is clear. Use a Dremel-type tool with a fresh coarse sanding drum
on medium speed to cut a half-moon shape at an angle to encourage oil flow into the pushrod
tubes, and hence into the valve covers.
Require colder spark plugs for increased compression ratio. NGK B8ES is colder than
NGK B7ES. Specs for BMW R50S say use Bosch W240T1 (= NGK B7ES) for running in and
thereafter use Bosch W260T1 (= NGK B8ES)
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
124
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
59.
60.
61.
62.
63.
64.
Spark plug equivalents:

Bosch W240T2 = Bosch W4CC = NGK B8ES/BP7ES

Bosch W260T2 = Bosch W3CC = NGK B8ES/BP8ES (colder than W4CC and B7ES)

Jan Cornel confirmed NGK B7ES is the correct plug for the R50/2. He says it also works
well in the R69S. He said the BP7ES range did not exist before 1968, so extended
insulator plugs not required.
Jan Cornel says use SAE 40 oil in engine and gearbox, but use SAE 90 oil in final drive.
Need to be careful to use GL4 and NOT GL5 which attacks brass components.
All gearbox bearings should be increased clearance C3 with pressed steel cages.
Gearbox output flange taper joint to be fitted with clean, dry mating surfaces. The key is no
longer required. Fit a 15mm ID flat washer behind the castellated nut.
Jan Cornel showed me how to bend gear selector forks – clamp both fork ends in the vice and
use a long ½” socket extension bar hooked over the single lever end – the barrel projection fits
through the hole in the female end.
I should have checked and corrected gearshift shaft axial end-play.
Brake shoes can be bonded with 4mm thick friction material, also the clutch friction disk.
Generator electrical terminal screws are M5.
Magneto electrical terminal screws are M4.5 (~ 2BA).
Jan Cornel gave me the following Bowden control cable specs:
 Throttle = 910mm (outer), 1030mm (inner) incl nipples
 Clutch = 1060mm (outer), 1340mm (inner)
 Brake = 1095mm (outer), 1300mm (inner)
Craig Vechorik on the Slash2 Group confirmed the following throttle cable lengths for low (Euro)
handlebars:
 13 21 2072370 = outer = 911mm
 13 21 2072370F = outer = 904mm
Based on the above and my BMW, I fabricated cables as follows:
 Outer sheath = 900mm
inner = 1022mm (incl nipples)
free length = 110mm
 Note free length is usually measured from cable end cap to inside edge of nipple. This is the
length of travel of the cable inner.
 Throttle nipple = 3.2mm Φ x 6mm L
Carb nipple = 3.2mm Φ x 6.5mm L
 End caps = 6.35mm OD x 5mm ID (for 8.5mm) x 10mm long with 2.0mm hole in closed end.
Wheel rims are measured across the inside of the rim where the tyre bead seats – for the
R50/2, the rim size is 2.15” x 18”:
Spoke size for R50/2 = 140mm x 3.5mm (M4), qty = 40 per wheel. Note that the spoke
diameter is measured over the rolled thread – this is a greater diameter than the spoke. BMW
M4 spokes measure 3.5mm over the body of the spoke. Mark Huggett says “an M4 spoke is a
3.5mm wire with rolled thread giving a diameter of 3.75mm or M4”.
Wheel offset spec= 6.0mm – 6.5mm on the brake drum side.
Most of the original supplied spokes and nipples are marked with a 4-leaf clover = “Berg Union”.
In Uli‟s terminology, the spokes for my wheels are “double crossed”, 140mm x 3.5mm (#6044)
for steel chromed spokes and nipples
Carb idle air screw thread = M7 x 0.75
Use 25 x 38 x 6mm double lip Nitrile seals for inner wheel hubs
Top hat spacers for wheel axles have different dimensions for LHS and RHS. The LHS top hat
spacer = 14mm long/wide and the RHS spacer = 10mm long/wide.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
125
65.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
71.
72.
73.
74.
75.
76.
77.
78.
79.
80.
81.
82.
83.
84.
85.
86.
87.
Set static ignition timing in accordance with guidelines from Craig Vechorik. First, align the “S”
mark on the flywheel with the mark on the crankcase. Then ensure that the mark on the
magneto rotor aligns with the mark on the magneto body when the magneto body is in the
middle of its adjustment range – this is the “abrisz” or e-point. The important thing to note is that
the static ignition timing is set by rotating the contact breaker points base plate, and NOT the
magneto body, while the flywheel “S” mark is aligned with the mark on the crankcase. Connect
a test lamp and suitable battery across the ignition points (first disconnect the wire to the
magneto coil). The test lamp must extinguish as the “S” mark aligns with the crankcase mark
when the engine is rotated. Rotate the contact breaker points base plate clockwise to advance
the ignition timing and counter-clockwise to retard the ignition timing (note that the centrifugal
advance mechanism will need to be removed to rotate the points base plate). The points gap
can also be increased to advance the ignition timing (anywhere between 0.4 and 0.5mm = OK).
Final ignition timing is set dynamically using a timing light (powered by a separate 12V battery).
Increase the engine revs slowly while viewing the marks on the circumference of the flywheel.
At about midrange (3800 rpm), the “F” mark on the periphery of the flywheel must align with the
mark on the crankcase. The timing should not advance any further as the engine speed is
increased. The limit spring on the centrifugal advance mechanism can be adjusted to ensure
that the timing does not advance beyond the “F” mark.
The limit for differential timing between the two cylinders is 2 degrees = 4mm on the flywheel
circumference with a flywheel diameter of 220mm. Duane Ausherman says it will not make
much difference if the differential timing is up to about 8mm = 4 degrees. Beyond this limit, it will
be necessary to tap the nose of the magneto rotor and centrifugal advance mechanism with a
hammer to alter the alignment on the taper fit between the magneto rotor and the camshaft.
OT = “oberer totpunkt” = TDC. This mark is used when setting valve clearances.
S = “spätzündung” = minimum advance spark = static/low rpm timing (“retarded ignition”)
F = “frühzündung” = spark advanced = dynamic timing („advanced ignition”)
Spark plug caps supplied with my „bike were BERU, 5k ohm.
Mark Huggett says the original spark plug caps are 1k ohm “BERU”
Craig Vechorik says use only spark plug caps with zero resistance.
Both centrifugal advance springs appear to be the same length = 9mm. (May need to be 11mm)
Bowden OEM cable adjusting screws are plated brass, threaded M7 x 1 (my non-OEM clutch
cable screw is 5/16” BSW)
OEM mirrors = Albert or Bumm, OEM fuel tank cap = BLAU
New BMW OEM cylinder head gaskets = Victor Reinz, AFM 200, 1.00mm thick with no steel
reinforcing ring.
Engine oil temperature = 80 – 90 deg C on a hot day (says Gawie Nienaber)
R50S and R69S barrel fins are round, and cylinder heads have 6 bolts holding them down.
Jan Cornel says I can use washers under the cylinder head bolts (instead of turning down the
rocker stands)
Jan Cornel also showed me it may be necessary to drill (ream) out the cylinder head holes for
the bolts – they can close up on the bolts – using a 10mm drillbit or reamer.
Duane Ausherman says use normal grease in wheel bearings, not the stringy grease for car
wheel bearings.
Use paper from Corn Flake packets as gaskets for the horn diaphragm.
Jeff Talbot says do not use stainless steel for exhaust headers – they do not carry the heat
away from the cylinder head as well as mild steel. Use thick wall mild steel tubing for more
effective heat conduction.
New style piston pin snap ring has loops = 07 11 9933643 (Jan says use old style snap rings)
Jan Cornel says use Nitrile oil seals except for engine main crank seal = Viton.
How to set carb float levels? See Bing carb manual and Service Bulletin 257b. Set lever at
22mm from cover surface when resting on needle. Set tab so that lever moves another 4mm
when fully open. New main jet = 120 (up from 105) in 1967/8 for R50/2.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
126
LESSONS LEARNT
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Do NOT re-chrome wheel spokes and nipples. The hydrochloric acid used to clean the old parts
dissolves the zinc in the brass nipples (leaving soft copper in the threaded portion), as well as
reduces the diameter of the spoke where it has eaten the rust away.
Do NOT take motorcycle engineering work to an automotive engineering works – they are NOT
geared up to machine motorcycle engines.
Do NOT use bearings with modern glass fibre reinforced polyamide cages (which are only
suitable up to 80° C) in motorcycle engines and gearboxes. Plastic cages become hard and
brittle at 120° C and also fail with time.
Do NOT use cheap studding to fabricate new studs for engine and gearbox casings. Rather
fabricate new studs from suitable high tensile bolts.
Do NOT bead blast aluminium parts with an air pressure higher than 300kPa.
Do NOT have motorcycle brake drums skimmed by shops that have not been recommended.
Do NOT re-use old piston pin wire clips (snap rings)
Do NOT fit resistor suppressed spark plug caps, or resistance/suppressed HT leads.
DO check the crankshaft for truth / alignment.
DO check valve spring installed heights.
DO check that pistons and conrods weigh the same.
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
127
LINKS
1. http://www.snafu.org/restore
2. http://www.benchmarkworks.com
3. http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw
4. http://www.bmbikes.co.uk
5. http://www.bmwbike.com
6. http://www.bingcarburetor.com
7. http://home.insightbb.com/~aatherton
8. http://www.beemergarage.com
9. http://bmwdean.home.att.net/
10. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slash2
11. http://www.cycleworks.net
12. http://vintagebmw.org/forums
13. http://tonyfoale.com
14. http://agwalker.com/wheelbuilding.html
15. http://www.tyreman.co.za
16. http://www.classicmotorcycleclub.co.za
17. http://www.pomc.co.za
18. http://www.savva.org.za
19. http://vmcc.net
20. http://www.pistonring.co.za
21. http://www.startline.co.za
22. http://www.mosskays.co.za
23. http://www.ulismotorradladen.de
24. http://www.motorrad-stemler.de
25. http://www.motobins.co.uk
26. http://www.airheads.org
27. http://www.largiader.com
28. http://www.bluemooncycle.com
29. http://darryl.crafty-fox.com/motorcycles
30. http://www.motorcycle.com
31. http://www.barringtonmotorworks.com
32. http://www.maxbmw.com
33. http://www.hobbyist.nl
34. http://www.meyer-bikes.de
35. http://www.motoren-israel.de
36. http://www.boxup.eu
37. http://www.rabenbauer.com
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
Marco Hyman‟s log of restoring R69S
Craig Vechorik of Bench Mark Works
Duane Ausherman‟s BMW site
Phil Hawksley‟s BM Bikes
Mark Huggett‟s online BMW parts (Swiss)
Bing Carb site in USA
Allan Atherton‟s R69 buying experience
John Lacko‟s Beemer Garage
Jeff Dean‟s BMW site
Slash 2 forum
Ed Korn‟s BMW tools & parts
Vintage BMW Club
Tony Foale‟s technical site
Lonnie Walker‟s site for /2 wheel building
TyreMan, Boksburg
Classic Motorcycle Club
Pretoria Old Motor Club
SA Veteran & Vintage Association
The Vintage Motorcycle Club (UK)
Piston Ring Club
Startline Online Motorcycle Spares
Mosskays accessories
Uli‟s online BMW spares (Germany)
Motorrad Stemler bike spares (Germany)
Moto-bins online BMW parts (UK)
Airheads BMW website
Anton Largiader‟s BMW bike website
Vintage BMW bike parts
Darryl Richman‟s BMW bike website
Motorcycle website
Barrington Motor Works, Vintage BMW
Max BMW
The Hobbyist online Spares (Holland)
S Meyer Online BMW parts, Germany
Motoren Israel BMW parts, Germany
Reiner Winter Online BMW parts
M Rabenbauer BMW parts, Germany
128
REFERENCES
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
“How to Restore Your BMW Motorcycle Twins 1950 –1969”, Roland Slabon, Motorbooks
International, 1994.
“Chilton’s BMW Motorcycle Repair & Tune-Up Guide R50, R50S, R60, R69S, R50/5, R60/5, &
R75/5 Models through 1972”, Chilton Book Company, 1973
“Understanding and Maintaining the BMW/2 Electrical System”, Doug Rinckes with contributions
from Kees van der Heiden, 2002
“Clymer BMW 500 & 600cc Twins 1955 – 1969 Service Repair Performance”, Mike Bishop,
Clymer Publications, 1978
“Building BMW/2 Wheels”, Lonnie Walker, http://agwalker.com/wheelbuilding.html
Factory Manuals & Service Bulletins
Website of Craig Vechorik = www.benchmarkworks.com
Website of Duane Ausherman = www.w6rec.com
Website of Cycleworks (ex Ed Korn) = www.cycleworks.net
Yahoo Groups Slash2 Forum = http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/slash2
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
129
RECORD OF EXPENDITURE
DATE
11 Oct 07
14 Oct 07
14 Oct 07
14 Oct 07
21 Oct 07
23 Oct 07
29 Oct 07
2 Nov 07
4 Nov 07
5 Nov 07
6 Nov 07
10 Nov 07
18 Nov 07
2 Dec 07
5 Dec 07
8 Dec 07
12 Dec 07
12 Dec 07
12 Dec 07
19 Dec 07
20 Dec 07
20 Dec 07
02 Jan 08
03 Jan 08
06 Jan 08
08 Jan 08
10 Jan 08
10 Jan 08
10 Jan 08
13 Jan 08
15 Jan 08
30 Jan 08
5 Feb 08
6 Feb 08
DESCRIPTION
BMW R50 m/cycle as scrap or spares
M6 and M8 chrome dome nuts
Aerosol primer and metallic silver
Lacquer thinners 5 litres
Heyco flat spanners 10/11, 12/13
4 x 30204 and 2 x 30203 bearings, 1x oil seal =
TC 25 x 38 x 7, 1 x oil seal = TC 25 x 35 x 7
4 x M8 x 1 x 30 bolts for petrol tank bracket
4 x M12 x 1,5 Nylock nuts, 2 x M10 x 1 bright
nuts, 4 x M8 x 40 s/steel bolts
CD of R50/R60 Workshop Manual
2 x M8 x 75 s/steel, 2 x M8 x 50 s/steel, 2 x M8
x 40 s/steel, 2 x M8 x 1 x 30 HT, 4 x M10 x 1
nuts
Autosol metal polish
1L MS primer, 1L 2K black gloss, 1L 2k
hardener, 5L thinners
500mL Duram Metcote NS5 etch primer (red)
and Dulux Black Limo spray paint
BMW rubber parts
Various new & used BMW parts
Emery cloth and water paper
Various oil seals
Bolts & nuts
1L Black Gloss 2K, 1/2L 2K hardener, wet/dry
sand paper (1500 and 2000)
30203 bearings for front swing arm
Hylomar gasket compound & cork for gaskets
6V 25W/25W lamp
Tank knee pads
Engine enamel Black Gloss spraypaint
Various rubber parts & spares
Spark plug leads, 1m
6203, 6004 and 6207 bearings & crank seal
Bead blasting (Red Heart Rum)
Steel strip and plate
51W/34W taper roller steering head bearings &
Bing carb manual
1/2L silver 2K, 1/2L clear 2K, 1/2L MS primer
2 x springs (for centre stand)
2 x Metzeler ME22 3.50 x 18 tyres
5L Shell Rotella Tx SAE40 oil
SUBTOTAL:
24 December 2013
AMOUNT
R7000-00
R18-00
R59-00
R60-00
R20-00
R177-00
SELLER
Jimmy D******
Builder‟s Express
Builder‟s Express
Builder‟s Express
Piston Ring Club
Tvl Bearings
R11-15 JKM
R30-00 JKM
R50-00 CMC (Bob Harpin)
R34-00 Bolt & Nut (KDP)
R49-00 Unnic Midas
R345-00 Randburg Automotive
Paints
R63-90 Builders Express
R375-00
R350-00
R38-65
R145-00
R34-00
R167-00
R78-00
R167-00
R18-00
R450-00
R30-00
R150-00
R8-00
R194-63
R105-00
R45-75
R404-00
CMC
Jan Cornel
Builders Express
Invicta
JKM
Randburg Automotive
Paints
Invicta
Blitz Motor Spares
Randburg Motorcycles
Jan Cornel
Mica Hardware
CMC
Blitz Motor Spares
Invicta
Zane‟s contact
Fleet Steel
R Alexander (Ed Korn)
R180-05
R11-40
R650-00
R108-30
Randburg Auto Paints
Starco Springs
Mosskays
Midas
R11626-83
Rev 1.1
130
RECORD OF EXPENDITURE (2)
DATE
7 Feb 08
12 Feb 08
14 Feb 08
18 Feb 08
1 Mar 08
2 Mar 08
4 Mar 08
12 Mar 08
20 Mar 08
22 Mar 08
26 Mar 08
12 Apr 08
12 Apr 08
19 Apr 08
3 May 08
17 May 08
1 Jun 08
2 Jun 08
4 Jun 08
18 Jun 08
18 Jun 08
1 Jul 08
28 Jul 08
3 Aug 08
25 Aug 08
5 Sep 08
8 Sep 08
15 Sep 08
21 Sep 08
21 Sep 08
21 Sep 08
29 Sep 08
12 Oct 08
21 Oct 08
23 Oct 08
2 Nov 08
7 Nov 08
14 Nov 08
25 Nov 08
7 Dec 08
15 Dec 08
6 Jan 09
8 Jan 09
11 Jan 09
DESCRIPTION
Inner tube 3.50 x 18 (King Tube)
Re-upholster dual bench seat
Oil seals 24x35x7, 25x38x7, Nitrile
Oil seals 30 x 40 x 7, 36 x 54 x 7 Viton & Nitrile
RT20G High Temp Retainer (50mL)
Mudguard, silent blocs, side stand
Spares from Uli‟s
Spares from Uli‟s = E110 (E1 = ZAR13)
Welded fins on tappet cover and cylinder head
Small tin body filler
S/Steel bolts & nuts
1m of M6 s/steel studding
Medium emery cloth
1kg Formula 40 body filler, 1m P60 sandpaper
Rear mudguard, tail lamp, luggage carrier
complete
Flexoid 0,4mm gasket paper (1m x 1m)
Timing cover gasket
2 x Red fibre gaskets
13mm hex s/steel to fabricate nuts (500mm)
Cut valve seats
M16 x 1,5 and M10 X 1 bolts
Bronze Bar PB1, 19mm diameter x 200mm
2 x exhaust valves and kickstart rubber h/ware
RHS carburetor air pipe
Rubber parts from Bill Speight incl Courier
Re-chroming of some parts
Parts from Uli‟s = E40.00 (E1 = R11.50)
Spraypainting & pinstriping (my 2K paint)
Reinforced rubber fuel hose (1m)
Plug Spanner
Pliers (Hapewe Germany)
Plug spanner, screwdriver, Black silicon
Exhaust silencers, s/steel, pair
½ L Black, ½ L Clear 2K paint
Weld gearbox casing around gear lever
Gear lever rubber sleeve, exhaust crush gasket
Gearbox bearings (x 5)
Gearbox 3203 bearing
17 x 1 circlip and 4 x 6.5 Woodruff key (g/box)
Fabricated and electroplated exhaust headers
Handlebar, used but electroplated
M12 x 30 S/steel bolts, x 2
Hylomar (for Jan Cornel)
Cork gasket material 3.2mm (for fuel petcock)
6V 3W lamp and in-line fuel filters
SUBTOTAL:
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
AMOUNT
R50-00
R513-00
R15-00
R60-00
R68-00
R705-00
R1700-00
R1430-00
R150-00
R35-00
R47-10
R28-00
R7-99
R76-00
R1200-00
SELLER
Mosskays
Classic Auto Trimmers
Bearing Man
Bearing Man
Chemence
CMC
Jan Cornel
Uli‟s (R&S) Paid Euro
Aerotig (Chas Hamer)
Autoquip
JKM
Builders Warehouse
Builders Warehouse
John W******
R28-50
R5-00
R5-00
R60-00
R150-00
R16-00
R148-20
R678-00
R20-00
R51-00
R385-00
R460-00
R1600-00
R15-00
R10-00
R20-00
R36-50
R1400-00
R140-00
R50-00
R35-00
R154-00
R140-00
R4-40
R500-00
R250-00
R15-00
R142-50
R82-00
R38-00
R24351-02
Unnic Midas
CMC
Lazer Hydraulics
Metals Centre
J.B Engineering
JKM
Gold Circle Metals
P. Beukes (Uli‟s)
CMC
Bill Speight
African Electroplating
Uli‟s
Mike Lester
Piston Ring Swap
Piston Ring Swap
Piston Ring Swap
Autozone
Jeff Talbot
Chas Hamer Aerotig
Jan Cornel
SKF
Bearing & Belting Supp
JKM
CMC
Jan Cornel
JKM
Blitz Autozone
Wizard Midas
Randburg M/Cycles
12724.19
131
RECORD OF EXPENDITURE (3)
DATE
29 Jan 09
29 Jan 09
1 Feb 09
1 Feb 09
3 Feb 09
5 Feb 09
6 Feb 09
20 Feb 09
15 Mar 09
16 Mar 09
28 Mar 09
6 Apr 09
30 Apr 09
27 Aug 09
4 Oct 09
5 Oct 09
18 Oct 09
7 Dec 09
8 Dec 09
22 Dec 09
10 Feb 10
7 Mar 10
21 May 10
19 Aug 10
8 Sep 10
14 Feb 11
25 Feb 11
2 Mar 11
4 Mar 11
7 Mar 11
10 Mar 11
14 Mar 11
27 Mar 11
15 May 11
3 Dec 11
12 Jul 12
4 Oct 12
22 Nov 12
8 Nov 13
DESCRIPTION
Oil seals 25 x 35 x 7, 25 x 38 x 7
Battery B49-6
6V 3W globe and 2 x cable nipples
Front brake reline and skim drum
Rubber driveshaft boot
Oil seal 25 x 35 x 6 Nitrile (x 2)
Inner tube 3.50 x 18”, rim tape
O-ring 6mm x 55mm
Re-chrome 1 x wheel rim, 40 x spokes &
nipples, 2 x hubcaps, 1 x aircleaner dome
70 x new spokes & nipples
Bonded linings for rear brake shoes, skim drum
Rim tape
3m of 10mm AF hex 303 s/steel bar
Condensor
Cylinder head gaskets & air filter element
Chromed steel wheel rim
Stainless steel M8 bolts
Mirrors
Spares from Uli‟s E30 @ R11.08
Re-chroming of handlebar risers, 3 x valve
pushrod tubes (R50), taillight rim
Credit for chroming taillight rim
Hooter, 6V chrome, new
Welded fin on one tappet cover
1 x Rim tape, 18”
Stainless steel exhaust headers
Postage on EconoParcel to Craig Patterson
10mm external circlips and E-clips
Spanner, Kennedy 14mm ring/flat
M10 and M14 copper washers
4mm plate for steering head spanner
Oil seals, final drive
431 S/steel bar for axles
Oil seal, 28 x 47 x 7, Nitrile, final drive
Hex bolt M12 x 45, nut, s/steel, rear shock mtg
Spares from Uli‟s (E40.40 x R9.868)
Socket 1” BSW to fabricate pin spanner
Licence disc holder
M8x1 x 20 cap screw (clutch mounting)
Renewed licence for 2012/13
Hardened washers for cyl head mount
AGM 6V battery
Plastic box 160x96x67
Number plate
AMOUNT
R24-00
R160-00
R10-00
R100-00
R75-00
R10-00
R111-00
R30-00
R1100-00
TOTAL TO DATE:
R32428-00 Approx
24 December 2013
Rev 1.1
SELLER
Main Reef Midas
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel
Jan Cornel/Hercules
CMC
BMG/Zane
Randburg M/Cycles
BMG
Sheffield Electroplating
R1460-00
R162-00
R16-00
R110-00
R25-00
R462-00
R300-00
R26-20
R140-00
R332-00
R302-10
Uli‟s (via R&S)
CBF, Strijdom Pk
Randburg M/Cycles
KMG
Blitz Motor Spares
Northside M/Cycles
Jan Cornel
JKM
Jan Cornel
Piet Beukes (Uli‟s)
African Electroplating
-R80-00
R220-00
R35-00
R5-00
R1544-70
R18-15
R4-20
R13-00
R9-55
R8-50
R22-65
R100-00
R15-00
R10-40
R398.67
R60-00
R14-00
R22-38
R192-00
R8-50
R68-00
R81-00
R100-00
Melville Price
Jan Cornel
Aerotig(Charlie Hamer)
CMC
Powerflow Durban
SAPO
JKM
ExecuPawn
JKM
Fleet Steel
BMG
Diversified Alloys
BMG
JKM
Uli‟s
Piston Ring
Main Reef Midas
President Bolt
Cresta PO
Northern Bolt
Current Automation
Communica
132

bmw r50 for restoration

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