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1891. VOLUME 02 curated style since 1891 Dusk to Dawn DI ON LEE H AS ARRIVED MIC H EL L E J A N K X RU B Y - J EA N A UT UM N W I NT E R ' 1 4 As we welcome Dion Lee to Strand Arcade, the ingenious designer reveals his latest inspirations and the design of his new store. Super stylist Michelle Jank teams with the enigmatic model Ruby-Jean Wilson to create an intriguing Winter’s tale. We pinpoint the best new season looks and zero in on the quintessential pieces for the cooler months ahead. THIS EDITION OF 1 891 BE L ONG S TO: 1891 One of the greatest joys of my job is being able to bring together my favourite collaborators to make a creative project happen. I have known Pierre since I was at university in Perth. He has such a great eye, I love the spirit of his photographs. It was lovely to be able to show some more of his personal work as backgrounds in the Winter story. I really enjoyed working with the retailers at Strand Arcade. It makes you realise in such a venerated historical building, the pleasure of old-fashioned wandering and discovery of tangible, beautiful things. A U T U M N W I N T E R IT’S ABOUT LIGHT I am always fascinated by light, the movement of light, refraction, shadows, how light affects an environment in Summer and Winter, fabric, colour, people... it’s the first thing that hits me when I get off the plane coming home. Australia has the most incredible light, astonishingly bright. That always makes me smile upon my return. 2014 As the days get darker and we brace for Winter’s chill, designers are making their mark with some of the finest and most luxurious finishes in a pale palette of creamy tones. The mood is decadent but ever so cosy as designers pay particular attention to texture and romantic silhouettes that are long and languid or artfully layered. THE CURATOR The theme of light is only fitting when you consider that Strand Arcade was the first building in Sydney city to be illuminated by electric light. Its revolutionary architecture and design made it both a beacon of ingenuity and a magical destination for the night-time crowds. Looking forward, that legacy continues to inspire as we celebrate all that is original, unique and of the moment. MICHELLE JANK People, always inspire me. I love art exhibitions and try to see as many as I can. I find it liberating and inspiring seeing artists work. I think that’s why I love collaboration, I take great joy in sharing the creative experience and sharing in the magic that they do. I asked my team to answer some questions... I hope it gives you a little window into their world. instagram @michelle_jank THE ART OF LIGHT One of the first Victorian-era buildings in Sydney, Strand Arcade was designed to take into account the harsh Australian climate. Its roof was made of specially tinted glass to reduce glare and the top floor was designed to shade the lower levels. But perhaps its most illustrious and revolutionary feature became apparent only at night. The building was lit by two enormous chandeliers and electric lamps using an innovative gas and electric system. Strand Arcade was the first building in Sydney city illuminated by electric light, the result was magical and garnered the arcade many accolades. We couldn’t help but be captivated by the great collaborative work of our curator Michelle Jank and her team including model Ruby-Jean Wilson and photographer Pierre Toussaint. Together, their dynamic vision resulted in a series of wonderfully compelling images that highlight the key moods of the season. We hope you enjoy this Volume of 1891. instagram @strandarcade “ Reality is to be found in lightness & darkness. THE MODEL THE PHOTOGRAPHER RUBY-JEAN WILSON PIERRE TOUSSAINT M: It’s all about the light for me... what does light mean to you? M: It’s all about the light for me... what does light mean to you? R: I think light plays a big part in bringing out the beauty in things that may otherwise go amiss. Like when you catch that perfect moment of the sky as the sun is going down. In photography of course light plays a huge part in setting a mood for the image. P: Pretty much everything... it’s how we communicate mood, style and much more. I think light should always complement the subject. I have become a big fan of negative lighting... taking light away rather than adding, gives a naturalness that often gets lost when people over do it. M: What inspires you on your creative journey? PABLO PICASSO Image courtesy of: Sydney Mail, September 1892 COVER OUTFIT: D R ES S (custom made) / Dion Lee / See store for details / Level 1 N EC K LA C E / COTA / Level 2 / $560 R: A lot of things. Music, colour, people! I love learning about and referencing certain eras especially when it comes to fashion. I look at a lot of fashion imagery online, in magazines and love watching old movies. People who have their own sense of style and that aren’t afraid to be different or go against the grain. M: What inspires you on your creative journey? P: Films, books, magazines… printed matter. M: What never fails to catch your eye? M: What never fails to catch your eye? R: Great shoes! P: Late light. Suburban glamour. I’ve noticed recently through editing a lot of personal images that I must be drawn to blue things... seems like my entire personal work at the moment is in a cold colour palette. instagram @rubyjean_wilson instagram @pierretoussaint the building was lit by two enormous chandeliers and electric lamps “ O ur second edition of 1891 is focused on the idea of “light” and the thrill of discovering something or someone entirely new – that burst of brightness that recharges the soul. LOOK WHO'S TALKING INSPIRATION D R ES S / Scanlan Theodore / Level 1 / $800 EA R R I N GS (top to bottom) / Tresors / Level G / $125, $195, $195 N EC K LA C ES (top to bottom) / Tresors / Level G / $325, $295, $325, $395, $1,200 T here’s nothing apologetic or discreet about the season’s best jewels. From the unmissable, shimmering flash of a crystal-bedecked ear cuff and the vampish elegance of weighty gold rings to the elegant refinement of a museum-worthy necklace. These statement pieces give any look an intriguing sense of drama. The only rule? More is more: pile on earrings and necklaces without inhibition and stack bangles in bold groupings to create a supercharged look befitting any radiant heroine. BRACE LE T / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / $1,300 GOLD RING / Zappacosta Jewels / Level 2 / $500 SKULL RING / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / $1,300 W HITE GOLD RING / Zappacosta Jewels / Level 2 / $1,350 PORTRAIT OF A LADY TAHITIAN P E ARL RINGS / Zappacosta Jewels / Level 2 / from $750 P E ARL & BLACK NE CKLACE S / COTA / Level 2 / $680ea NIGHT GARDE N TOURMALINE & DIAMOND RING / Victoria Buckley Jewellery / Level 1 / POA DIAMOND RING / Dustins Jewellers / Level G / $26,400 GRE E N SAP P HIRE RING / Victoria Buckley Jewellery / Level 1 / $14,880 AME THYST & SP INE L RINGS / Rox Gems & Jewellery / Level G / from $2,800 DR E S S / Scanlan Theodore / Level 1 / $1,000 D R ES S / Leona Edmiston / Level 1 / $445 DI A M O ND C HO K E R / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / $25,000 EA R R I N GS / Duo / Level G / $75 DI A M O ND NE C K L A C E / Dustins Jewellers / Level G / POA S M OK EY QU A R TZ R I N G (left hand) / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / $2,800 S I LVE R BA NG L E / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / $380 DI A M O ND T E NNI S BR A C E L E T / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / $15,000 DI A M O ND BA NG L E / Dustins Jewellers / Level G / $9,600 DI A M O ND T E NNI S BR A C E L E T / Dustins Jewellers / Level G / $20,400 R I NG S / Dustins Jewellers / Level G / from $3,900 HIDDEN GEM TA H I TI A N PEA R L R I N GS / Zappacosta Jewels / Level 2 / from $750 FA N N EC K LA C E / Mondial by Nadia Neuman / Level G / POA BA N GLES / Duo / Level G / (square) $105, (oval) $75 CUFFS / Duo / Level G / M $180 / L $197ea VICTORIA BUCKLEY JEWELLERY Level 1 Talk about divine invention – Victoria Buckley’s intriguing new collection is themed around a garden of delights, taking in vibrant coloured gemstones and white diamonds seen on the most opulent cocktail rings and delicate pendants. Meticulously crafted, the designer’s signature pieces are engraved with intricate floral motifs, which lend the glorious line-up their own unique decadence. PAVE S E T R I NG (left hand) / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / from $4,900 MEET THE MAKER strandarcade.com.au 18ct Rose & White Gold ‘Extravagant’ Ring VICTORIA BUCKLEY JEWELLERY Level 1 / $26,464 DR E S S / Amy Taylor Collection / Level 2 / $420 E A R R I NG S / Rox Gems & Jewellery / Level G / $5,900 NE C KL A C E S (top to bottom) / Victoria & Albert / Level G / $9,800 / $3,950 / Rox Gems & Jewellery / Level G / $9,800 / $1,700 BA NG L E / Duo / Level G / $115 R I NG S (right hand) / Mondial by Nadia Neuman / Level G / $12,500 / $16,500 R I NG S (left hand) / Dustins Jewellers / Level G / $8,055 / Love and Hatred / Level 1 / $5,800 / Mondial by Nadia Neuman / Level G / $18,900 ALL THAT GLITTERS The dizzying appeal of jewellery is heightened right now as you consider the current boldness on show – from traffic-stopping charms to rings alight with fiery crystals, it’s time to indulge. ‘Chiave’ Ring LOVE AND HATRED Level 1 / $2,700 Diamond Flower Brooch RAPHAEL JEWELLERS Level G / POA Black Diamond Ring LOVE AND HATRED Level 1 / $3,900 GOLDEN HOUR COLLECT OUTFIT AT: the curator: Michelle Jank the model: Ruby-Jean Wilson the photographer: Pierre Toussaint D R ES S / Akira / Level 2 / $3,960 S WEATER / Jac+ Jack / Level 1 / $499 F EATH ER BOA / Tresors / Level G / $195 N EC K LA C E / Dinosaur Designs / Level 1 / $780 RING / Akira / Level 2 / $44 BA N GLES / Dinosaur Designs / Level 1 / S $75 / M $85 / L $105 COLLECT OUTFIT AT: S WEATER / Lover / Level 1 / $349 SKIRT / Lover / Level 1 / $395 JU M PER (worn around waist) / Gorman / Level 1 / $269 BA C K PA C K / Crumpler / Level G / $40 (colours may vary instore) WATC H / TW Steel / Level G / $549 I t’s a particularly romantic time of year when the temperature starts to dip and the afternoons take on that soft golden light – suddenly, we want strong original statements with a sense of luxury. This season it’s about textural pleasure and intrigue: try cosy sweaters elegantly teamed with trailing silk skirts, or sculptural layerings to envelope in. COLLECT OUTFIT AT: D R ES S / Amy Taylor Collection / Level 2 / $420 C R EW N EC K / Skin and Threads / Level 1 / $348 (instore April) S QU A R E C A R D I / Skin and Threads / Level 1 / $388 (instore April) JA C K ET / Jac+ Jack / Level 1 / $799 A K U BR A GOD FATH ER / Strand Hatters / Level G / $220 COLLECT OUTFIT AT: JACKE T / Scanlan Theodore / Level 1 / $500 SKIVVY / Skin and Threads / Level 1 / $140 SKIRT / Scanlan Theodore / Level 1 / $400 AKUBRA SQUATTE R / Strand Hatters / Level G / $190 S H AWL (worn on head) / Jac+ Jack / Level 1 / $160 BAGS / Hunt Leather / Level G / Shoulder $595 / Tote $770 BA N GLES / Dinosaur Designs / Level 1 / $105ea SHOE S / Isabel Marant from The Corner Shop / Level 1 / $785 COLLECT OUTFIT AT: K NI T (worn underneath) / sass & bide / Level 1 / $250 TOP / sass & bide / Level 1 / $390 SKIRT / sass & bide / Level 1 / $520 C O AT / Manning Cartell / Level 1 / $749 COLLECT OUTFIT AT: JACKE T / Isabel Marant from The Corner Shop / Level 1 / $2,490 COAT / Manning Cartell / Level 1 / $899 PANT / Manning Cartell / Level 1 / $449 AKUBRA CE NTE NARY / Strand Hatters / Level G / $220 E ARRINGS / Tresors / Level G / $195 GLOVE S / Tresors / Level G / $195 after hours first light The heady scent of roasting almonds, spicy colognes and an elegant pairing of leather and stone make for essential cold comforts. Simple pleasures – a soft mohair sweater in the palest mallow hue, an indulgent treat or a calming tea are some of life’s greatest luxuries. 1/ 3/ 1/ 2/ 2/ 3/ 4/ 5/ 4/ 7/ 9/ 8/ 6/ 7/ 9/ 10/ 8/ 5/ 10/ 6/ 11/ 12/ 13/ 12/ 11/ 14/ 15/ 13/ 16/ 14/ 15/ 17/ 19/ 16/ 18/ 1/ HAIGH’S CHOCOLATES Assorted Truffles 225g $34.75. 2/ MAIOLO SALON Kevin Murphy Night Rider Cream $36. 3/ CHRISTOPHER HANLON Visage Silke Cream $200. 4/ CHRISTOPHER HANLON Perfume $360. 5/ ANDREW MCDONALD SHOEMAKER Brass Shoehorn $80. 6/ ALEX PERRY Emma Midi Dress $1,095. 7/ DINOSAUR DESIGNS Medium Band Vase $165. 8/ LOUIS CARDINI Leather Scroll $140. 9/ PERFECT VISION Dita Reading Glasses $669. 10/ AESOP Geranium Leaf Body Balm 120ml $37. 11/ AVEDA Green Science Firming Face Cream $129.95. 12/ ALLEN TAILORING & ALTERATIONS visit the store on Level 2. 13/ THE NUT SHOP Macadamia Selection $27.70. 14/ BON BON Luxury Milk Hot Chocolate $12.50. 15/ FUNKIS Wooden Salt & Pepper Dish $18. THE NUT SHOP Candied Macadamias 200g $10. 16/ THE NUT SHOP Mixed Nuts in Shell 500g $7.20. 17/ BON BON Nougat 5 piece selection 300g $15. 18/ GALANNI Dress $1,430. Flowers from GRANDIFLORA. 20/ 17/ 18/ 1/ DINOSAUR DESIGNS Tall Band Vase $185. 2/ MANNING CARTELL Word Play Knit $249. 3/ THE NUT SHOP Turkish Delight 200g $4. 4/ FUNKIS Lilla Bruket Wild Rose Soap $17. 5/ AVEDA Outer Peace Cooling Masque $69.95. 6/ FUNKIS Grip Tongs (set of 3) $39. 7/ FUNKIS Wooden Salt & Pepper Dish $18. THE NUT SHOP Sugared Almonds 200g $5. 8/ MAIOLO SALON Kevin Murphy Blonde Angel Wash $33. 9/ PERFECT VISION Oliver People Reading Glasses $389. 10/ AVEDA Light Elements Defining Whip $49.95. 11/ HAIGH’S CHOCOLATES Mint Flips 200g $4. 12/ DINOSAUR DESIGNS Small Seaweed Dish $50. 13/ FUNKIS Wooden Whisk $11. 14/ PERFECT VISION Miu Miu Reading Glasses $459. 15/ AESOP Resurrection Aromatique Hand Balm and Reverence Aromatique Hand Balm, $29ea. 16/ FUNKIS Wooden Butter Knife $7 Wooden Spoon $12. 17/ HAIGH’S CHOCOLATES White Chocolate & Strawberry Block 200g $9.95. 18/ VICTORIA & ALBERT Enamel Pansy Brooch $1,150. 19/ AVEDA Comforting Organic Tea Bags $29.95. 20/ THE NUT SHOP Buttered Macadamias 200g $10. Flowers from GRANDIFLORA. SPOTLIGHT ON SHOE CARE COLLECT OUTFIT AT: SHIRT / Jac+ Jack / Level 1 / $220 the NIGHT WATCH MAN PA R K A / Fred Perry / Level G / $350 FOOT NOTES put your best foot forward with this footwear fact PA N T / Jac+ Jack / Level 1 / $140 Before 1900, basic shoe polish was made from ashes, tallow (a rendered form of beef or mutton fat), and beeswax. WATC H / TW Steel / Level G / $725 BA C K PA C K / Crumpler / Level G / $155 PRINCE CONSORT'S SHOE SHINE Gaze downward, are your shoes gleaming? It’s true that an impeccable presentation puts a little kick in your step, hence the power of a good polish from the likes of Prince Consort’s Shoe Shine service. Glow forward! Ground Floor R ight on cue, the trend for polished pulled-together dressing is turning up a few intriguing possibilities. Luxurious layering is key as traditional gentlemen’s checks and tweeds make a welcome return in tones of slate grey, olive and walnut. To combat the climate change, sporty anoraks and canvas parkas lend a practical yet sleek edge. COOMB’S SHOE REPAIR AND SERVICE Ground Floor Scuffed toes or a broken briefcase? At the start of every season it pays to give your shoes, bags and briefcases a little attention, by repairing soles and handles and reconditioning leathers. Established over 80 years ago, Coomb’s Shoe Repair and Service uses both traditional and advanced craftsmanship to give your accessories new life. COLLECT OUTFIT AT: SH IRT / Joseph’s Shirts / Level G / $235 TI E / Farage / Level 1 / $129 DECON STR U CT ED J A C K ET (worn underneath) / Farage / Level 1 / $795 FELT COAT (worn on top) / Farage / Level 1 / $895 TROU SER / Farage / Level 1 / $329 KAN GOL C A P / Strand Hatters / Level G / $80 SH OES / Brando from Joseph’s Shoes / Level G / $365 GUY ON THE GO Every man needs a chic travel inventory for those grueling stopovers (or devilish escapades). Pack right with a hard-sided case and be sure to include an impeccable black tie shirt and polished lace-ups for those unexpected rendezvous. Enrico Bruno Boot JOSEPH’S SHOES Level G / $575 Woven Belt JOSEPH’S SHOES Level G / $145 Drakes Wallet FRED PERRY Level G / $130 Jet Set Travel Kit AESOP Level G / $41 Wingtip Brogue ANDREW MCDONALD SHOEMAKER Level G / $525 Globetrotter Suitcase HUNT LEATHER Level G / $2,150 Tuxedo Shirt, Bow Tie DECLIC Level G / $139.95, $49.95 COLOUR CURATED WELCOME TO THE CLUB WE ARE THRILLED TO ANNOUNCE THE OPENING L E AT HE R C A R D HO L DE R , L E AT HE R C O I N PUR S E / Louis Cardini / Level G / $100, $110 C ON TR OL PA S TE / Aveda / Level G / $49.95 WHISPER WHITE Like a breath of fresh air, the latest accessories and modern comforts are seen in a chalky palette of white and cream and the effect is instantly uplifting. DION LEE SM ALL CLOU D BOWL, CIT RU S CH O C S / Dinosaur Designs / Level 1 / $50 / Haigh’s Chocolates / Level G / 200g $8.70 OF ICONIC AUSTRALIAN DESIGNER DION LEE’S FIRST STAND-ALONE STORE ON LEVEL ONE OF STRAND ARCADE. Our 1891 curator Michelle Jank caught up with Dion to find out more. M: The very clever and talented Mr Dion Lee! Congratulations on the opening of your first flagship store at Strand Arcade. A very exciting way to start 2014! D: Thanks MJ! I S A BE L M A R A NT ‘BO BBY’ S NE A K E R S / The Corner Shop / Level 1 / $665 medium. Both man-made D: I met Kelvin a while ago and was impressed by his ability to tailor the design of each space to each particular brand. I think Kelvin understands that defining a brand's DNA is the most fundamental part of creating meaningful retail environments. bring any design to life. D: Construction. Displacement. Perspective. M: The creative process is always such an interesting one to dissect. I am always so interested in the way creative people work.... did the raw space dictate something to you when you first saw it or were you very clear even before seeing the space on what you wanted to happen? and natural light are what M: What is inspiring you and catching your eye at the moment? D. Movement. Natural textures. Imperfections. M: It's all about light....what does light mean to you? D: Light is such a powerful medium. Both man-made and natural light are what bring any design to life. MEET THE MAKER strandarcade.com.au NEW ON THE SCENE JAC+ JACK KEVIN MU RPH Y YOU N G A G A IN MA S Q U E / Maiolo Salon / Level 2 / $50 Light is such a powerful M: How did you go about finding the right architect/ designer to work on the space with you? M: Your own designed retail space is such a powerful way to convey the ethos of a brand. Can you share with us a few vital key words that started you off when briefing Kelvin? C A R VED C H OK ER N EC K LA C E / Dinosaur Designs / Level 1 / $246 CE LINE SU N GLASSES / The Corner Shop / Level 1 / $495 D: I have been developing a blueprint for the retail concept for a few years now, thinking about how the brand would be communicated within its own environment, however once the space was selected it really became about designing something quite site specific for the space. The existing facade, made up of three separate shop fronts, was used to create a grid. This grid was then projected into the space and then shifted on an angle, to create a space within the space. M I X ED C H OC OLATE BOX / Bon Bon / Level G / $27 There’s a lot to admire about best friends Jacqueline Hunt and Lisa ‘Jack’ Dempsey – their luxurious knitwear and jersey essentials are a given, but it’s also their initiative to collaborate with artisans from India and the women of Chandroti, a small village nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, to produce the most exquisite handcrafted pieces. Based in Sydney, the pair has built their label based on effortless, modern and yet timeless style and indeed there is a sense of ease and accessibility in building a wardrobe with Jac+ Jack at its core. By using sensual, natural materials including the purest cashmere, Australian superfine merino, linen and silk, the brand continues to evolve sustainably, developing understated collections of impeccable quality for women, men and home. For more on their current inspiration, visit Jac+ Jack’s new Strand Arcade store designed by awardwinning interior architect George Livissianis. LEVEL 1 GUMPTION BY COFFEE ALCHEMY “Great coffee takes Gumption”, so says the team behind Strand Arcade’s new cult espresso bar, and you can see why – recently, the award-winning coffee-makers have introduced a range of specialty brewed pour-over drinks in addition to their signature blends (either beans or ground), all guaranteed to put a kick in your step. GROUND FLOOR TW STEEL What perfect timing – TW Steel has arrived at Strand Arcade, bringing with it its range of must-have oversized watches worn by the likes of Kelly Rowland, Mick Doohan, Jay-Z and Jon Bon Jovi. The brand, which is renowned for its bold, lifestyle pieces and impeccable make, is now showcasing its latest collections encompassing both urban and classic designs. GROUND FLOOR 1891 is published by Studio Woo on behalf of Strand Arcade. While every care has been taken to ensure that all information is correct at the time of printing, neither Studio Woo nor Strand Arcade can accept responsibility for any errors, omissions or changes. WE ARE THE MAKERS OUR LATEST WE ARE THE MAKERS STORY TAKES A LOOK BEHIND THE SCENES AT ONE OF OUR NEWEST ARTISANS IN RESIDENCE - HUNT LEATHER visit strandarcade.com.au to see their story and the stories of other unique makers and creaters START YOUR 1891 COLLECTION To be the first to find out when each issue launches, and enjoy exclusive news, designer offers and stylish updates join us online! #strandarcade