GİYİM ÜRETİM TEKNOLOJİSİ VOCATIONAL ENGLISH

T.C.
MİLLÎ EĞİTİM BAKANLIĞI
MEGEP
(MESLEKİ EĞİTİM VE ÖĞRETİM SİSTEMİNİN
GÜÇLENDİRİLMESİ PROJESİ)
GİYİM ÜRETİM TEKNOLOJİSİ
VOCATIONAL ENGLISH - 1
ANKARA 2007
Milli Eğitim Bakanlığı tarafından geliştirilen modüller;
•
Talim ve Terbiye Kurulu Başkanlığının 02.06.2006 tarih ve 269 sayılı
Kararı ile onaylanan, Mesleki ve Teknik Eğitim Okul ve Kurumlarında
kademeli olarak yaygınlaştırılan 42 alan ve 192 dala ait çerçeve öğretim
programlarında amaçlanan mesleki yeterlikleri kazandırmaya yönelik
geliştirilmiş öğretim materyalleridir (Ders Notlarıdır).
•
Modüller, bireylere mesleki yeterlik kazandırmak ve bireysel öğrenmeye
rehberlik etmek amacıyla öğrenme materyali olarak hazırlanmış,
denenmek ve geliştirilmek üzere Mesleki ve Teknik Eğitim Okul ve
Kurumlarında uygulanmaya başlanmıştır.
•
Modüller teknolojik gelişmelere paralel olarak, amaçlanan yeterliği
kazandırmak koşulu ile eğitim öğretim sırasında geliştirilebilir ve
yapılması önerilen değişiklikler Bakanlıkta ilgili birime bildirilir.
•
Örgün ve yaygın eğitim kurumları, işletmeler ve kendi kendine mesleki
yeterlik kazanmak isteyen bireyler modüllere internet üzerinden
ulaşılabilirler.
•
Basılmış modüller, eğitim kurumlarında öğrencilere ücretsiz olarak
dağıtılır.
•
Modüller hiçbir şekilde ticari amaçla kullanılamaz ve ücret karşılığında
satılamaz.
CONTENTS
EXPLANATION ................................................................................................................ ii
PREFACE ...........................................................................................................................1
LEARNING ACTIVITY- 1..................................................................................................3
1. PATTERN DESIGN ........................................................................................................3
1.1. Types of Clothing......................................................................................................3
1.2. Taking Measurement on Body...................................................................................7
1.3. Technıcal Terms Of Pattern Preparatıon ..................................................................12
1.4. Model Propertıes .....................................................................................................19
LEARNING ACTIVITY– 2 ...............................................................................................25
2. PRODUCTION..............................................................................................................25
2.1. Main ( Primary ) Materials ......................................................................................25
2.2. Auxiliary Materials .................................................................................................27
2.3. Cutting Place Processes ...........................................................................................32
2.4. Sewing Processes ....................................................................................................33
2.5. Ironıng Processes ....................................................................................................37
2.6. Control Processes ....................................................................................................38
2.7. Packagıng Processes................................................................................................43
LEARNING ACTIVITY– 3 ...............................................................................................46
3. OCCUPATIONAL CORRESPONDENCE.....................................................................46
3.1. Correspondences Between Firms .............................................................................46
3.1.1. Forms of Order Formation................................................................................47
3.2. Correspondences in Firm.........................................................................................49
3.2.1. Cutting Direction Preparation ...........................................................................49
3.2.2. To Prepare Cutting Direction............................................................................51
3.2.3. To Prepare Quality Directions ..........................................................................52
3.2.4. To Prepare Machine Park Direction..................................................................53
3.2.5. To Prepare Packaging And Delivery Direction .................................................54
MODULE EVALUATION ................................................................................................56
ANSWER KEY .................................................................................................................61
SOURCES .........................................................................................................................65
i
EXPLANATION
EXPLANATION
KOD
222YDK011
ALAN
Giysi Üretim Teknikleri
DAL/MESLEK
Kadın Giyim Modelistliği, Erkek Giyim Modelistliği,
Çocuk Giyim Modelistliği, Hazır Giyim Model Makineci,
Deri Giyim, Kadın Terziliği, Kesim
MODÜLÜN ADI
Mesleki Yabanci Dil 1
MODÜLÜN TANIMI
Yabancı dilden mesleki alanda faydalanmak için, alanı ile
ilgili temel bilgi ve teknik terimlerin yabancı dilde açıklama
ve karşılıklarını kapsayan, aynı zamanda bu bilgilerin iş
hayatında anlaşılması - ifade edilmesi konularını içeren bir
öğrenme materyalidir.
SÜRE
40/32
ÖN KOŞUL
Alanı ile ilgili temel modülleri almış olmak
YETERLİK
Mesleği ile ilgili yabancı dildeki yayınları okumak ve yazmak.
Genel Amaç
Bu Modülün sonunda; gerekli kaynak ve ortam sağlandığında
mesleği ile ilgili İngilizce doküman okuyabilecek ve
hazırlayabileceksiniz.
Amaçlar
1. Tekniğe uygun kalıpla ilgili doküman okuyabilecek ve
hazırlayabileceksiniz.
2. Tekniğe uygun üretimle ilgili doküman okuyabilecek ve
hazırlayabileceksiniz.
3. Tekniğe uygun mesleki yazışmaları okuyabilecek ve
hazırlayabileceksiniz.
Yabancı kaynaklar, sözlükler, örnek teknik çalışmalar,
modülün bilgisayarlı ortamda ve uygulamalı olarak işlenmesi
konunun kavranması ve yeterliliği konusunda pekiştirici
olacaktır.
Modülün içinde yer alan her faaliyetten sonra, verilen ölçme
araçlarıyla kazandığınız bilgi ve becerileri ölçerek kendi
kendinizi değerlendireceksiniz.
Öğretmen; modül sonunda sizin üzerinizde ölçme aracı
uygulayacak, modül ile kazandığınız bilgi ve becerileri
ölçerek, değerlendirecektir.
MODÜLÜN AMACI
EĞİTİM ÖĞRETİM
ORTAMLARI VE
DONANIMLARI
ÖLÇME VE
DEĞERLENDİRME
ii
PREFACE
PREFACE
Sevgili Öğrenci;
İnsanların aralarında anlaşmaya, kendilerini ifade etmelerine araç olan dil, bir gramer
sistemi içinde örgütlenmiş, düşünce ve duyguları bildirmeye yarayan ses, işaret ya da
hareketlerin bütünüdür. Dünya üzerinde her ulusun kendine özgü dili vardır.
Küreselleşen dünya içinde anlaşabilmek için ortak bazı dilleri bilmek ve kullanmak
zorundayız. Sektör anlayışlarının değiştiği, tüketici taleplerinin ve ürünlerinin çeşitlendiği bir
dönemde meslekte uzmanlaşma için, mesleki yabancı dil kaçınılmazdır. Bu ihtiyaca cevap
vermesi gereken kurumlar da bu meslek alanına eleman yetiştiren meslek liseleri olmalıdır.
Sahip olduğunuz meslek alanını ilgilendiren teknik terimlerin ve yazışmaların şu an en
geçerli olan ticaret ve yazışma dili İngilizcedeki karşılıklarının ne olduğunu ve nasıl
kullanacağınızı öğrenmekte bu modül size yardımcı olacaktır.
Mesleğinizi doğru ve daha iyi yapmak istiyorsanız, her konuda kendinizi geliştirmeyi
amaçlayınız. Yabancı dil öğrenmek ve doğru ifade edebilmek de kendinizi daha iyiye
taşımanın yollarından biridir.
Bu modül ile kalıpla ilgili dökümanları, üretimle ilgili dökümanları ve mesleki
yazışmaları okuyabilecek ve hazırlayabileceksiniz.
1
2
LEARNING FACILITY- 1
LEARNING ACTIVITY- 1
AIM
In direction of the knowledge given at the end of this activity, when convenient
ambience and sources are provided, you will be able to say kinds of dresses, facilities in
measurement, how measurement is taken, model properties and technical terms of pattern
preparation in English.
COMMENTARY
Research about sorts of clothing observing apparel of members of your family. Report
them in English. Share your knowledge you prepared in English with your friends.
1. PATTERN DESIGN
1.1. Types of Clothing
ACCORDING TO
GENDER
WOMEN’S CLOTHING
Ø
Ø
Ø
MEN’S CLOTHING
KID’S & YOUNG
CLOTHING
Women’s Clothing: Dresses which ladies wear to have a good appearance and
to affect another people.
Men’s Clothing: Dresses which vary according to social status of men and
fashion.
Kid’s - Young Clothing: Comfortable and practical dresses which cause kids
and young to gain personality, and don’t hamper their growth.
3
Classification of clothing
ACCORDING TO
WOMEN’S
OUTERWEAR
MEN’S OUTERWEAR
KID’S-YOUNG’S
OUTERWEAR
WOMEN’S
UNDERWEAR
MEN’S UNDERWEAR
KID’S-YOUNG’S
UNDERWEAR
Ø
Ø
Underwearing: Dresses which are made of comfortable and useful cloth, worn
over skin flesh, absorbing perspiration.
Outerwearing: Dresses which are worn over underwear, vary according to
fashion, environment, age, climate, economical circumstance, social life and
property of cloth.
LADY ‘S
OUTERWEAR
Coat
Suit
Skirt
Dress
Blouse
Trousers
Fancy Dress
T-Shirt
LADY’S
UNDERWEARING
Nightie
Housecoat
Underwear
Swimsuit-Bikini
MEN’S OUTERWEAR
Overcoat
Jacket
Trousers
Suit
Uniform
Shirt
Vest
MEN’S UNDERWEARING
Nightie
Pajamas
Underwear
Swimsuit
KIDS-YOUNG
OUTERWEAR
Overcoat
Jacket
Hooded Jacket
Dress
Trousers
Skirt
Blouse
KIDS-YOUNG
UNDERWEARING
Baby Clothes
Underwear
Nightie
Pyjamas
Table – 1: Examples of Clothing
According to Places
Ø
Ø
Ø
Sportive Dress: Dresses which are preferred in sportive works and journey and
provide comfort and easiness.
Casual Dress: Simple, practical and comfortable dresses which are used at
home, in picnic, in daily life.
Business-Suit: Severe dresses which are prefferred so that labourer might be
comfortable and his/her dress might remain clean.
4
Ø
Fancy Dress: Dresses which are made of lace, tulle, organdy or silk, which are
caused to gain characteristic by various ornaments and influenced by trend.
Body Types
The five basic body shapes are:
1. the Hourglass,
2. the Triangle,
3. the Inverted Triangle,
4. the SlimRectangle, and
5. the Wide Rectangle.
1) Sometimes referred to as the ideal
figure, this balanced figure is marked by
wide shoulders, a full bust, a narrow waist
and wide hips.
Picture. 1.1.1. The Hourglass
2) Defined by narrow shoulders and a
small bust extending to significantly
wider hips, this figure is known as the
pear shape.
Picture. 1.1.2 The Triangle
5
3) Defined by broad shoulders, a full bust
and heavy upper arms extending to
narrow hips, balance this figure by adding
interest to the lower body.
Picture.1.1.3 The Inverted Triangle
4) In this lithe figure, the shoulders and
hips are very similar in width with little
definition at the waistline-straight up and
down with a lack of curves.
Picture.1.1.4. The Slim Rectangle
5) This body shape is nearly straight up
and down. Instead of being slim,
however, the figure is wider. It has an
overall appearance.
Picture.1.1.5 The Wide Rectangle
6
1.2. Taking Measurement on Body
Ø
To take woman's measurements
Picture 1.2.1: Women’s Measurement
Body
Measurement
1. Bust / Chest
The bust measurement is taken by placing the tape
measure over the back, underneath the arms and then
over the highest point on the bust. Do not pull the tape
measure too tight or too loose.
2. Waist
Tie a string around your waist to determine the location
of your waist. Here it is very important to measure your
true waist size, and not to pull the tape measure too tight.
3. Hips
The hip measurement is taken over the widest part of the
hips. Measure the distance from your waist to the widest
part of your hips.
7
4. Back Waist Length
Your back waist length is measured from the bone at the
base of the neck down to your natural waistline.
5. Front Shoulder to Waist
It is measured from the highest point of shoulder to waist.
6. Point of Bust
The highest point of bust
7. Point of Chest
The highest point of chest to the waist
8. Bust/ Chest Front
It is taken through the highest point of chest to two
underarms.
9. Back Width
It is taken from shoulder-bone to underarm..
10. High Hip
Measurement for high hip is taken for width of
umbilicus.
11. Sleeve Length
Determine your neckline. Bend your arm slightly.
Measure the shoulder width from the neckline to the tip
of the shoulder bone. Write down this measurement.
Then, without moving the tape, and with the arm slightly
bent, measure the arm over the elbow down to the wrist.
12. Point of Elbow
It is taken from the beginning of shoulder to point of
elbow.
13. Upper Arm
It is taken for width of biceps.
14. Crotch Depth
Height of sitting, derivative of trousers are necessary in
dresses.
15. Thigh
The width of calf.
16. Skirt Length
The length of the skirt is measured from your waist to the
length you wish the skirt to be. Place the tape measure
with the beginning of the measurements where you want
the skirt to end.
17. Pants Length
For the length of the pants, measure at your side from the
waist over your hip bone to the length you wish the pants
to be. This is the length of the outside leg seam.
8
Ø
To take men's measurements
Picture 1.2.2: Men’s Measurement
Body
Measurement
Chest
The chest measurement is taken around the widest part of the
chest. Measure under the arms
Waist
Measure around the natural waist line.
Hip
Measure around the fullest part of the hip.
Neck
Measure around the base of the neck or choose the pattern size
by the ready-to-wear neck size
Outside Leg Seam
Measure the outside leg seam. This is the distance from the
waist to the bottom of the pants.
Inside Leg Seam
It is very important to take the inside leg measurement. This is
from the crotch to the bottom of the pants. You determine a
man’s crotch measurement by deducting the inside leg
measurement from the outside leg measurement.
Shirt Length
Measure from the bone at the base of the neck down to the
length you want the garment to be.
Shoulder and Arm
Measure the shoulder width from the neckline to the tip of the
shoulder bone. Write down this measurement. Then, without
9
Length
moving the tape, and with the arm slightly bent, measure the
arm over the elbow down to the wrist bone. Deduct the
shoulder width to determine the arm length.
Men’s sleeve length, as given in ready-to-wear, is measured from the center back, over the
shoulder and the elbow to the wrist bone.
Ø
To take children's measurements
Picture 1.2.3: Child’s Measurement
Body
Measurement
Height
For the correct height, have the child take off his or her shoes
and and measure him or her against a wall.
Chest
The chest measurement is taken around the fullest part of the
chest. Be sure the tape is straight across the back.
Waist
Measure around the natural waist.
Hip
Measure around the fullest part of the hips.
10
Shoulder and Arm
Length
Determine the neckline. Bend the child's arm slightly. Measure
the shoulder width from the neckline to the bone at the tip of
the shoulder, write down this measurement. Then, without
moving the tape, and with the arm slightly bent, measure the
arm over the elbow down to the wrist bone. Deduct the
shoulder width to determine the arm length.
Shirt Length
Measure from the neckline down to the length you want the
garment to be.
For the length of the pants, measure the child's side from the
waist to the length you wish the pants to be.
Pant Length
You also need to know the length of the inside leg seam.
Measure from the crotch down to length you wish the pants to
be.
Measurement Charts ( Metric System )
Ø Unisex - For figures within Misses', Men's, Teen-Boys, Boys' and Girl's size ranges.
Sizes
XXS
XS
S
M
Chest/Bust
71-74
76-81
87-92
97-102 107-112 117-122 127-132
cm
Hip
74-76
79-83
89-94
99-104 109-114 119-124 130-135
cm
Standard Sizes (Women)
Ø Jacket, Blazers, Coats
Ø Trouser, Suits
Ø Dresses
Ø Skirt, Trousers
Ø Overall
Ø Blouses
Ø Pullovers, Cardigans
Ø T-Shirt, Sweat-Shirt
Ø Workwear
Ø Swimwear
Ø Nightwear-homewear
Ø Underwear
Ø Tights
11
L
XL
XXL
32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68
6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40
34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 68
32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66
D
F
GB
B
NL
1.3. Technıcal Terms Of Pattern Preparatıon
1. Ready made
dress size
– Ex1: 38-4042…..etc.
– Ex2 : S-M-LXL…etc.
2. Whole length
3. Dress length
3
2
4.
5.
6.
7.
Waist
Hips
Hip Lowness
Skirt Length
4
5
6
7
12
8. Back length
9. Front length
10. Bosom lowness
8
10
9
11. Front neckline
lowness
12. Back neckline
lowness
12
11
13. Sleeve length
14. Arm width
14
13
13
15. Back width
15
16. Front width
16
17. Biceps width
17
18. Hem width
18
14
19. Sleeve hem
width
20. Shoulder
21. From shoulder to
shoulder
22. From back center
to shoulder
22
20
21
19
23. Pants length
24. Trotter width
25. Front crotch
length
26. Back crotch
length
26
25
24
23
15
27. Inside trotter
28. Sitting height
29. Corsage
29
28
27
30. Calf
31. Hip
30
31
32. Slash
33. Cuff
32
33
16
32
Pattern Symbols:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
13
Cutting line
Stitching line
Grain arrow
Place on fold line
Notches
Corner
Lengthen and shorten line
Fold line
Button and buttonhole placements
Dart placement
Pocket placement
Hemline
Lapel
Serializing pattern : It means maintaning patterns from cloth patterns according to
differences of size with reference to big or small size in the number liked. This is made
considering a coordinate plane.
+Y
-X
+X
-Y
Picture. 1.3.1: Serializing Pattern(Grading)
17
Shape. 1.3.1: X-Y Axis
Terms of Computer Aided Design (CAD) :
Picture 1.3.2: Cad System
Standard Modules In CAD System:
Ø
DIGITIZE+ PDS + GRADE
•
•
•
•
Preparing Patterns from Beginning
Digit ( Transferring carton or mulange patternes or original model to
computer in 1/1 sizes )
Application of Model
Serialization
Spreading fabric : In ready- wear fabric resident-plan shows how a fabric settles
down most economically.
The followings must be considered in fabric resident-plan;
Ø
Combinations of size (body): How many and which sizes (bodies) will be
drawn are calculated by drafting assortment. Assortment calculation is affected
by the following items:
•
•
•
•
•
Dispersion of size in amount of order
Sort and Property of the fabric
Dimensions of cloth spreading table
System of cutting
Layer number of cloth spreading.
18
Picture: 1.3.2: Preparation of Cloth
Spreading
Picture: 1.3.3: Preparation of Cloth Spreading
for Tartan
1.4. Model Propertıes
1. Pleat
Pleats in various size are applied
on outerwearing like skirt,
dresses.
Sometimes a different style is
done on garment by top seams.
2. – A Pleat
These pleats named also A pleat
sometimes give comfortability of
garments.
19
3. Covered pleat
Back sight of A pleat. It is also
used in textile productions
mostly.
All pleats are seen under the
corsage in the picture.
4. Waistpocket
It is used mostly in man
waistcoats. It is also named
handkerchief pocket.
5. Flap pocket
Flap pocket, its name, is used in
ready wear, it is also called jacket
pocket.
20
6. Gather- Shirr
It is a seam and pattern technic
used to make the garment wider.
It is preferred for decoration or
comfortability.
7. Frill – Ruffle
It is a seam technic used for
decoration in kids and lady
wearing.
8. Cup
It is used to show hip lines or top
body. Longitudinally or half cups
are
varied
according
to
preferance.
9. Binding – border
It is trimming seam preferred in
knitting fabrics. It is useful and
easy to use by means of binding
apparatus.
21
10. Set-in sleeve or Inset
sleeve
Type of sleeve set in body and
used mostly because of its
comfortablity. It is used on all
types of garments such as;
Blouse
Shirt
Jacket-coat
Caban
11. Raglan sleeve
A raglan sleeve is one where the
sleeve reaches all the way to the
neckline, covering the shoulder.
A lot of sports and activewear
uses raglan sleeves because it
gives a looser fit, making
movements easier, without being
baggy.
12. Men’s shirt collar
The most suitable type of collar
to wear a tie in suit. Italian collar
type is so popular nowadays.
13. Mandarin collar- Stand
up collar
It is preferred on jackets and
blouses. It has been also used in
man wear recently.
22
14. Flounce
It is formed by seaming parts cut
from its own fabric or a different
fabric to hems, collars, sleeves of
garments.
15. Button hole pocket Inset pocket
Top Wearing Pocket Type is
used in various points of garment
such as
Woman jacket
Man jacket
Man pants back pocket
Man waistcoat
Man jacket inside pocket etc.
In direction of the subjects in the module, give examples such as measurement chart,
pieces of pattern, details of model about a model you determine.
23
CONTROL LIST
Please answer below mentioned control list by changing it with your classmates.
Evaluation Criteria
Types Of Clothing
Can you pronounce the types of clothing?
Can you classify the types of clothing according to
kinds?
Can you read the types of lady’s outerwear ?
Can you explain the types of clothing according to
places ?
Do you know how many types of body shapes there
are ?
Do you know the names of body shapes ?
To take measurement
Can you pronounce how to take measurements in
English?
Can you write how to take children’s measurement ?
Can you pronounce the abbreviations of unisex body
sizes ?
Technical terms of pattern preparation
Do you know the English technical terms that are used
for preparation of pattern in Turkish ?
Model Properties
Can you write the names of the models that you see ?
Yes
No
EVALUATION
You should be able to practise the attitudes in control list one by one. You should
revise the activity related to the subject from which you sign No.
24
LEARNING FACILITY- 2
LEARNING ACTIVITY– 2
AIM
In direction of the knowledge given in this learning activity, when convenient
ambience and sources are provided, you will be able to write and say terms, symbols and
processes which are used for main ( primary ) materials, auxiliary materials, cutting places,
sewing, control, ironing and packaging in English correctly.
COMMENTARY
Ø
Ø
Making a list of the materials you use in pattern adjustment, try to say these in
English. Share your study with your classmates.
Note the works about patterns made in ateliers around your environment. Hang
up all works on your classroom enriching by a schematic expression in English.
And discuss them with your classmates.
2. PRODUCTION
2.1. Main ( Primary ) Materials
Ø
FABRIC
Classification of Fabric: According to production, fabrics are generally classified
as in the following ways:
Ø
Ø
Ø
Non-woven fabric
Knitted fabric
Woven fabric
25
Nonwoven fabric: It is made of that fibres form a wove as a result of such processes
as felting and sticking.
Knitted fabric: It is made of that threads form a surface being amassed on knitting
machine and looms.
Woven Fabric: In ready-made clothing, generally definite measured clothes are used
because of breadth of cutting desk or measurment of dress pieces.
Picture 2.1.1: Fabric Samples
Shape 2.1.1: Directions of Weft and Warp Thread
26
CLASSIFICATION OF FABRICS
KNITTED FABRICS
WOVEN FABRICS
NON-WOVENS
These are stretchy, elastic,
filled and soft textile
surfaces formed by
threads’ transforming into
looms by needles.
These are textile surfaces
which form as a result of
that two groups of thread
named warp and weft
crossed vertically and
horizantally.
Ø Gabardine
Ø Poplin
Ø Kanvas
Ø Ribs
Ø Velvet
Ø Jean-Denim
Ø Crepe
Ø Crinkle
Ø Cachet
Ø Flannel
These are surfaces forming
as a result of that various
fibers are compressed and
pressed.
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Supreme
Interlock
Ribbon
Lacoste
Camisole
3 Threads
2 Threads
Selanique
Polar
String bag cloth
Ø Buckram
Ø Felt
2.2. Auxiliary Materials
Auxiliary Material
The main (primary) material is fabric in ready-clothing. The auxiliary materials are
also needed in order to produce products.
1. Yarn –Thread : Thread is a
material formed by making them a
thin bunch and flexing. They can
be used as a final production as
seam threads.
Ø Cotton ( karded)
Ø Cotton (combed)
Ø Wool
Ø O.E. (Open end )
Ø Synthetic Seam Thread :
a-Filament thread
b-Dashed fiber
Ø Mix Thread ( Ex.. % 65
Poliester / % 35 Cotton)
Ø Silk Thread
Ø Flax Thread
Ø Asbestos Thread
Ø Glass Thread
Ø Paper Thread :
27
2. – Interlining / Buckram
It is an auxiliary material to make
the garment esthetic..
Applications:
Ø Ready-made clothing
industry
Ø Shirt Collars
Ø Men Blazers / Suits
Ø Ladies Dresses & Blouses
3. Lining:
Type of fabric used for form and
keeping of garment and varying
according to
main material.
Applications :
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Skirt
Jacket
Pants
Suits
4. Zipper :
Tape is manufactured exclusively
for zippers. It is usually made of
polyester but, depending on use,
synthetic fiber tape, vinyl tape and
cotton tape are also available.
A slider joins or separates the
elements when the zipper is opened
or closed and consists of a body
and a pull-tab.
Elements The portion where the
elements are engaged is called the
element top.
28
5. Button :
The auxiliary material to attach two
different parts of garment and
available in different forms.
Types:
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ball
Shank
Two holes
Four holes
6. Ribbon
It is mostly used for decoration
especially on kids and woman
wearing and textile productions.
7. Belt Buckle :
It provides fabric to be easy in
usage and to seem esthetic with
fabric.
Buckles were used in ancient
Greece and Rome, particularly in
military equipment
8. Label (Sign )
Two kinds of labels are used on
garments. Customer declares where
she/he wants the label to be in
garment in seam directions.
Ø Label- Sign
Ø Hangtag
Ø Care Label
29
9. Decoration rubber:
It is used in underwear and kids
wearing.
Customer declares which seam
thread and machine will be used in
seam in seam directions.
10. Snap fastener
A snap fastener is a pair of
interlocking discs commonly used
in place of buttons to fasten
clothing.
There are Closure and Attaching
units.
11. Ornamental lace :
They are used in underwear and
nighties. They are produced in
various sizes.
30
12. Prints
There are various printings:
Ø Fabric prints (Print design)
Ø Screen prints
Ø Embroidery
31
2.3. Cutting Place Processes
Cutting Systems Used in Ready-Wear:
1. Manual cutting system
2. Cutting with electrical scissors
3. Cutting system with round knife
4. Cutting with vertical knife
5. Gentle Cutting
6. Press cutting system
7. Continuous cutting system
8. Servo-Cutter cutting system
9. Automatic cutting system
The last processes in cutting-place: They are divided into 3 parts.
1. Control of piece and Classification
2. Enumeration (meto)
3. Transfer of the pieces which have been cut
32
2.4. Sewing Processes
Some of the materials that are used for sewing
1. Scissors
There are different kinds of
scissors
Ø Tailor’s scissors
Ø Thread Nippers
2. Pin
It is made of steel or covered
with chrome.
3. Thread
The most suitable kind of yarn for
piece of garment to attach and
fabric to be stitched to provide a
sufficient appearance.
33
4. Bobbin and bobbincase
Industrial and domestic kinds are
available.
5. Sewing machine
Various machines are available
for every kinds of work. There
are automatic or half-automatic
machines and automatons
according to the properties of the
work done.
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Simple Sewing Machines
Overlock
Covering-stitch
Welting Automatics
Hem- stitch
Covering Sewing
Machines for Elastic
band
Ø Automatic Buttonholing
Machines
Ø Automatic Button
stitching Machines
Ø Automatic Bartack
Machines
6. Machine Needles
Machine needle should be
choosen according to fabric and
thickness of thread. Industrial
needles are codified as DP.
7. Tape measure
It is a measurement material
made of plastic. There are
measures arranged according to
metrical system or inch. If the
customer gives an inchmeasurement, the part of inch
makes the work easy.
34
Sewing Processes
1. Collar attaching
The process of attaching the collar
stiffenered and stitched to body by
considering suitable seam allowance
conscientiously.
2. Button hole opening and
button sewing
In insustry processes of button hole
opening and button sewing are
made easily and quickly by means
of sewing automation.
Suitable button and button hole
should be chosen according to
properties of the garment.
3. Closing crotch
Seam separating the back and front
body of bottom garments such as
pants, short, skirt or sportswear.
Sewing should be pulled carefully
in order to make well done
35
4. Hem sewing
Hem print is done with skirt
crooking automaton or machine
according to customer’s request.
5. Trousers hem sewing
It is done according to not only the
type of fabric and model but also
the customer’s wish.
6. Shoulder attaching
You should notice seam allowance
in order not to make puffiness. It is
the first thing seen in a garment.
36
2.5. Ironıng Processes
THE IMPORTANCE OF THE LAST IRONING IN CLOTHING PRODUCTION
The success of forming process of the product is based on the fabric structure. In
order to get clean, clear and finished appearance the last ironing must be done. An effective
result is gained by using this process for soft and flexible fabrics rather than rough and tight
ones. There are effective and economic working iron machines for this process.
The product formed by ironing at industry is vacuumed. By vacuuming steam and
moisture are removed from the product.
The producer and client must be satisfied after the last ironing process.
CORRECTION OF THE FAULTS WHILE LAST IRONING PROCESS
Ø
Ø
Ø
Sewing shrink
Non forming parts
Fault in measurements
TYPES OF INDUSTRIAL IRON MACHINES
*Conventional Steam Table –
*Steam - Vacuum Iron
37
*Shirt - Collar - Cuff Press
*Steam Ironing Dummy -
2.6. Control Processes
Position of garment in the last control processes, suitability of production
measurement for measurement chart and accordance of the material are controlled.
Position Control
Control of the sewn production on the model related to the age group. This control is
made on inorganic and alive models.
38
Control of Meausrement
Control of the suitability of the sewn production for the measures given in the Chart of
Quality Properties.
Material Accordance Control
Control of the material accordance used in the production seamed. When appropriate
material is used as in Form of Model Analysis, there won’t be so problems in material
accordance control.
CORRECTING PROCESSES
Process of correcting mistakes marked in the sewn production at the last control.
Correcting in Pattern
The correction of the position of the production seamed if there are any mistakes. It is
made on netting, sleeve or pocket points.
Changing The Material
Correcting the mistakes coming out in material accordance control of the production
seamed.
Change in Sewing Technics
If there is a mistake because of the sewing technics used in the production seamed, it
is changed into correct one.
TERMS FOR QUALITY CONTROL
Quality
The totality of features and characteristics of a product
or service that bear on its ability to satisfy a given need.
Quality assurance
All activities and functions concerned with
attainment of quality (Total Quality Control).
Specification
The document that prescribes in details the requirements
with which the product or service has to comply.
Design
The process of task recognition and problem solving,
with the object of meeting needs by the creation of
products and services.
39
the
Process
The method of operation in any particular stage of
manufacture of the material part, component or
assembly involved.
Facilities
The tools, materials, supplies, instruments, equipment
and other resources available for creating the product or
performing the service.
Instruction
The written and/or spoken direction given with regard
to what is to be done, including the infor mation
given in training.
Conformity
The fulfillment of a specified requirement by a quality
characteristic of an item or service, the assessment of which
does not depend essentially on the passage of time.
Reliability
The ability of an item to perform a required function under
stated conditions, for a stated period of time.
! Note The term "reliability" is also used as a reliability characteristic denoting a probability of
success, or a success ratio.
Compliance
An indication or judgement that the product or service meets
the requirements of the relevant specification or
regulation; also, the state of meeting the requirements.
Quality management
The systematic way of guaranteeing that organised
activities happen the way they are planned.
Quality manual
A document setting out the general quality policies,
procedures and practices of an organisation.
Quality system
The
organisation
structure,
responsibilities,
activities, resources and events that together provide
organised procedures and methods of implementation
to ensure the capability of the organisation to meet
the quality requirements.
Quality program
A documented set of activities, resources and events
serving to implement the quality system of an
organisation.
Quality plan
A document derived from the quality program (extended if
necessary), setting out the specific quality practices, resources
and activities relevant to a particular contract or project
Quality audit
The independent examination of quality to provide
information.
40
Economic quality
The economic level of quality at which the cost of securing a
higher level of quality would exceed the benefits of the
improved quality (controversial concept).
Quality control
The operational techniques and activities that sustain the product
or service quality to specified requirements. It is also the use of
such techniques and activities.
Specification tolerance
The permitted variation in a process of a characteristic of
an item.
Certification
The authoritative act of documenting compliance with
requirements.
! Note. The requirements can relate to personnel, processes, products, organisations and
services.
Certificate of conformity
A document signed by a qualified party affirming that, at
the time of assessment, the product or service met the
stated requirements.
Defect
Any non-conformance
requirements.
Total Quality Management
It can be defined as the all-embracing management style,
which coordinates all areas of an enterprise towards
achieving excellence through the complete satisfaction of
consumer requirements, thus ensuring that activities
happen the way they are planned.
of
an
item
to
specified
QUALITY CONTROL IN THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY
Quality control may be divided into three areas
Ø
Acceptance testing : Acceptance testing incorporates the testing of all raw
materials used, including the basic fabric, and auxiliaries such as buttons,
zippers, press studs, hooks and eyes, elasticized waist-band fabric, stiffening,
tapes, interlinings, pocketing, linings, padding and sewing threads.
41
Ø
Performance testing : Performance testing involves special tests on properties
important to particular types of fabrics. These tests include showerproofing for
rainwear; inflammability of children's garments; fabric-to-fabric adhesion in
fusible interlinings; air permeability in windproof fabrics and so on. A
showerproof fabric should continue to be effective after successive wetting and
drying, and the finish should stand up to dry cleaning. Because of the difficulties
of reproducing the same testing conditions in different laboratories, these tests
are not entirely standardized and only relative measurements may be obtained.
Ø
Product inspection : As the garment goes through a complicated array of
processes (cutting, assembling and so on) before the final product appears, a
system of product inspection is required to remove processing faults.
Inspection during production ensures that no further work is done on garments
already classified as faulty, and the final inspection prevents their sale. A full
inspection may be carried out, but it is usual to examine only a sample and
to concentrate on styles and types that are known to be prone to faults. The
amount of inspection depends on the type of garment, the quality and the
price range.
42
2.7. Packagıng Processes
Attaching the right sleeve to left
sleeve with a clips.
Folding the sleeves two times -
Shirt the cuff of which is folded
outside.
43
Closing the package -
Packed up shirt -
Write and read the stages of a production from fabric to the last status in the light of
the subjects in the module.
44
CONTROL LIST
Evaluation Criteria
Main ( Primary ) Materials
Can you read and classify the fabrics according to their
structure?
Can you write weft and warp thread in English correctly?
Can you write woven fabrics?
Can you explain the meaning of non-woven fabric in
English?
Auxiliary Materials
Can you pronounce the names of auxiliary materials?
Can you write the names of auxiliary materials correctly?
Cutting Place Processes
Can you prepare the cutting place chart ?
Can you write the cutting systems used in ready-wear?
Can you write the last processes in cutting place, correctly
?
Sewing Processes
Can you pronounce the materials that are used for
sewing?
Can you write “yaka, omuz ve etek ucu dikimi işlemleri”
in English?
Ironing Processes
Do you know the importance of last ironing process in
clothing?
Do you know the faults that can be corrected while the
last ironing process?
Can you write the names of industrial iron machines?
Control Processes
Do you know which elements are being paid attention
while quality control process?
Can you write the faults that are being able to corrected
while the last ironing process?
Do you know the meaning of these words quality,
instruction, process, certification, reliability?
Packaging Processes
Can you write the processes of packaging?
Yes
No
EVALUATION
You should be able to show attitudes in control list one by one. You should revise the
activity in which you have signed NO criterion.
45
LEARNING FACILITY- 3
LEARNING ACTIVITY– 3
AIM
In direction of the knowledge given at the end of the activity when appropriate sources
and ambience are provided, you will be able to state terms, symbols and contents of
correspondences in firm and between firms in English correctly and you will be able to
correspond in English when requested.
COMMENTARY
Note the correspondence various parts of firms make with each other or customers.
Share them with your friends in the class and discuss about them by enriching them by tables
in English.
3. OCCUPATIONAL CORRESPONDENCE
3.1. Correspondences Between Firms
Producer firms make changes on productions if requested in direction of the orders
asked after they introduce their collections to their customers and in direction of critiques on
the order given. Order of the production changed is started to produce after confirmation of
the customer in the result of correspendence with the him/her.
Except for the real order given to the producer, pre order (collection order) given to
the producer at the beginning of the season and additional order (repete) given to the
producer according to the rate of number emerge.
46
3.1.1. Forms of Order Formation
1. Order
Ø Offer List
Ø Order Form
ORDER FORM
47
2. Determining Material
Ø
Ø
Production/Colour Card
Form Card
SAMPLE CARD OF DETERMINING MATERIAL
Artikel No: 104427
Product ID
Collection:
Summer 2005
Sizes:
XS
S
2
6
BILL OF MATERIALS
Vendor:
Tech
Designer:
O.Universty INC
M.Polson
Agent:
Product
Analyst:Product Mng
Merchant: T.Ebagh
M
L
10
14
Fabric/Findings/Labels/Sundries
Fabric:
Fabric ID* Option
Piece/Loc
Circ/Flat
Fabric Comment
1349
1
Body
Description
Phone:00
666 666 66
Phone:
-612-
Phone:
Width
French Terry, 270gr/m2
Flat
YARN SIZE-30’S Cotton 95%, Spandex %5
HEATHERS&SOLIDS
ENZYME WASCH
Labels, Hangtags,Hanger,Sizers,Ticket:
Type
Code
Description
Qty
Comments
Care label
VNDMANG
Vendor manage
1 units
Main Lbl
50D
IDT Woven loop label
1 units
CARE LABEL-ID03_02K1
Hangtag
11D
IDT Hangtag w/sz chart
1 units
Hanger
CPC-12
12 “ Padded Pinch Bottom
1 units
Findings/Sundries:
Finding ID*
Description
Size
Comments
8370
BOM-Addi see Comme
5inches
Contrast
100%Cotton Jersey Tape at outseam at Waistband
8735
Elastic Non-Roll
3inches
4692
Thread Cotton plyre-DTM
N/A
4684
Thread Cotton Po DTM seams
N/A
48
3. Determining Capacity
Ø
Determining Capacity Card
Ø
Order Collecting Card
Ø
Cutting Commandment
Ø
Cutting Direction
Prepare giving, admitting, metarial determining cards noticing examples.
3.2. Correspondences in Firm
Firms prepare various forms and correspondences to provide the flow of knowledge
among parts correctly to start production of the order the customer has confirmed. Each part
delivers this knowledge to the next process in supervision of the charge.
KNOWLEDGE FLOW OF THE PRODUCTION CONFIRMED IN THE
FIRM
Raw Storage
Quality Control
Fabrication Organization
Cutting
Arrangement
Sewing Part
Pattern or Firm Indoor Pre Operations
Process Control
Ironing
Finish
Quality Control
Packaging System
Assortment Dispersion
The Last Control
Production Material Store
Delivery
Customer
3.2.1. Cutting Direction Preparation
If fabric store available in raw depot is not enough after production confirmed new
fabric is provided. After the fabric passed from quality control, it is sent to cutting.
Drawing assortment is calculated considering body set as offer number asked by
customer. Drawing assortment and cloth spreading table are available in cutting direction.
How many times cloth spreading will be done is calculated considering cutting table, cutting
system aims fabric property.
49
Fabric’s passing from quality control
Sample of Cutting Direction :
Form: Cutting Direction
Customer
Article Number
Product
Amount of order : 1200 pieces man pants
Body Dispersion : 40
200
Drawing Assortment : 40
1
Page Number :1
Temrin tarihi:
Preparing:
Preparation Date:
42
400
42
2
Drawing Assortment Calculation 40
Cloth Spreading Label Number :
200 labels 1
100 labels 2
50 labels
4
44
400
46
200
44
2
46
1
42
44
46
2
4
8
2
4
8
1
2
4
Attention!!
Ø Spread the fabric according to its design and properties.
Ø Proportion of cloth waste of % 5 will be considered.
50
3.2.2. To Prepare Cutting Direction
Another kind of correspondence which should be done before pieces cut come to
cutting band after matching has finished. Customer declares sewing directions in addition to
order form. International sewing, thread codes are considered here.
Sample Cutting Direction :
Article No:
Product :
Create date:
Reinforcement- overlap coverstitch by 1 “ on all operations
CONSTRUCTION /WAISTBAND
Waistband-self fabric, circular band, fold over construction
Waistband- full elastic, waistband should be flat, no gathers
CONSTRUCTION/HEM
Hem-Bottom : flat
SUNDRIES/ELASTIC
Elastic-attach circular
Elastic-Appropriate application to garment
OTHER INFORMATION
“Please see image for additional non-graded measurements and contructions details”
APPROVED TRIM SUPPLIERS
Refer to approved Supplier List on POL (Partners On Line)
FLOOR READY
Refer to POL for floor rady requirements
All Products must be tested at Merchandise Testing Laboraties (MTL) for
compliance to Firm Performans Standards
51
3.2.3. To Prepare Quality Directions
Quality tolerance of the pieces seamed is certain in international specification. To
obey these rules, directions for quality are prepared and production is done considering
correspondences in the middle and the last controls.
Sample Quality Direction
Quality Standards
Customer
Article
Product
Quality Properties
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
Page Number
Work Materials
Preparing
Preparation Date
Standard
Belt width
Belt bottom bulgy
Belt edge width
Zip fastener seam
Slash length
Equalty of right and left slash
Back middle seam
Lining side and middle seam
Zig-zag
Hanger length
Button hole length
Button place
Skirt press
+
2
1
1
1
5
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
30
20
30
10
200
0
20
10
5
120
15
0
30
Explanation: Measurement has been given as milimeter.
Working :
Control :
Date :
52
Standard
2
1
2
1
5
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
2
Example 2:
3.2.4. To Prepare Machine Park Direction
It is prepared according to which work and on which machine will be done in
direction of critiques declared in sewing direction.
Sample Machine Park Direction
PROCESS (Jean Seaming)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Closing pocket bag
Matching pocket bag
Fly overlock
Fitting zip fastener
Bending clock pocket
Mounting clock pocket
Seam of side pocket edge
Fly gauze seam
Bending back pocket
Mounting back pocket
Seam of back seal
Back middle seam
Side compound
Netting compund
Fitting belt
Bridge seam
Ponteriz-Stop point
Button holes
Hem press seam
301:Lockstitch
304:Zig-Zag stitch
401: Two-thread chainstitch
Seam
Bottom Thread Top Thread
Type
60
40
516
√
406
√
504
√
301
√
401
√
√
301
√
√
301
√
√
301
√
√
401
√
√
301
√
√
401
√
√
401
√
√
516
√
√
401
√
√
401
√
√
406
√
304
50
304
50
301
√
√
SEAM TYPES
406: Overedge stitch
504: Three-thread overlock
516: Five-thread overlock
53
3.2.5. To Prepare Packaging And Delivery Direction
Customer has sent an explanation to state conditions of packaging and delivery. These
rules are obeyed in the firm. This knowledge is given to the charge of delivery to packaging
in the firm.
Sample of Packaging and Delivery Direction
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
Ø
In the example the customer will send
Parcel Size
Request for Bag
Parcel Signs
Conditions of Putting the Product in the Parcel and
Where the Delivery Knowledge
Packing instructions
Customer: KEILBACH
Customer no.: 1012
1.) Carton sizes:
-length: 60cm
-width: 40cm
-height: 20cm, 30cm or 40cm.
2.) Poly bag:
-plastic foil material must be recyclable (green point- watch the instructions of customer:
SISO- 1008)
3.) Carton mark:
-article number,
-pieces,
-sizes,
-customer order-number
-customer address
4.) Carton packing instructions:
-basically 1 lot must be put into one poly bag
-you can fill so much lots into the carton until it’s full – but the carton size (watch point 1.)
must be correct !
5.) Notification:
-goods up from 3 euro pallets must be notified before delivery.
Phone: 0049 781 629 31
Fax: 0049 542 45
Considering examples prepare cards of sewing directions, machine park, quality
properties and read them.
54
CONTROL LIST
Answer control list you have prepared with your class-mates changing.
Evaluation Criterion
Correspondence Outside Firm
Can you read and enumerate corespondence outside in English?
Can you write the ways of taking order in English?
Can you use order terms in sentence in English?
Can you say the meanings of the terms in the form in English?
Can you pronunciate the words correctly?
Can you write order form in English?
Can you read order form in English?
Can you prepare determining material card in English?
Can you read determining material card in English?
Do you know the importance of good relationship with the
customer?
Correspondence Inside Firm
Can you say the flow of the order confirmed in the firm in English?
Can you say the names of the correspondences used in the firm in
English?
Can you write the contents of the correspondences prepared in the
firm in English?
Can you say the contents of the correspondences prepared in the
firm in English?
Can you prepare cutting directions in English?
Can you prepare sewing directions in English?
Can you prepare card of making machine park in English?
Do you know the importance of correspondences’s understanding
correctly inside the firms?
Yes
No
EVALUATION
At the end of the evaluation if you have deficiency please revise the Learning
Activity.
55
MODULE EVALUATION
MODULE EVALUATION
Evaluate your knowledge you have got in learning activities answering the following
questions.
1.
Match the words given below. Think about the relationship between two columns .
1-Women’s clothing
2- Pyjamas
3- Coat
4- Swimsuit
5- Kids and Young Wear
6- Labour dress
2.
a- external wearing..
b- Sport wearing…..
c- Wearing according to gender…
d- Inner wearing
e- Wearing according to usage..
f- Casual Wear
Write the names of the measurements in Turkish.
56
3.
Write the names of the measurements in English.
4.
Show the getting knowledge in the cutting place.
CUTTING PLACE
LAYOUT--CUTTING--METO
57
5.
Except fabric which material is needed in order to produce clothing ?
A) Auxiliary tools
B) Auxiliary materials
C) Main ( primary ) materials
D) Patterns
6.
Write the names of the pictures given below.
58
7.
Which is the ideal body type for women ?
a- Triangle
b-Slim rectangle
8.
9.
c- Inverted triangle
d- Hourglass
Write the explanations of below mentioned abbreviations in English.
A)
XXL ___________________________________
B)
S ______________________________________
C)
L _____________________________________
D)
XS ___________________________________
E)
M ____________________________________
Write the meanings of below mentioned pattern preparation technical terms in English.
A)
Beden _______________________
B)
Bel __________________________
C)
Kalça ________________________
D)
Boyun çevresi __________________
59
10.
Write the names of below mentioned pictures according to model properties.
A)
__________________________________
B)
_________________________________
FILL IN THE BLANKS
11.
Occupational correspondences are divided into parts as correspondences
…………………………and correspondences ……………………….. .
12.
Except for the real order,……….(collection order) given to the firm in the beginning
of the season and ……….(Repete) given according to sale proportion are available.
13.
Order formation forms are Order; ……List and…………
14.
Packaging Conditions are …………….. , ………………….., parcel signs , and
…………………. .
15.
In the form of determining
…………………… labels.
material there are …………….., …………..,
60
ANSWER KEY
ANSWER KEY
11/c
2/d
3/a
4/d
5/c
6/e
2-
Neck: Boyun
Chest: Göğüs
Waist: Bel
2- Waist
3- Hip
Hip: Kalça
3-
1-Chest
61
4- Back Waist Length
4-
5-b (Auxiliary materials - yardımcı malzemeler)
6Button
Buckle
Zip fastener
62
Ribbon
Label ( sticker )
Snap fastener
7- d (Hourglass - Kum saati )
8a-XXL ____XX Large__________
b-S ________Small____________
c- L ________Large_____________
d- XS ______XSmall____________
e- M ________Medium__________
9a- Beden ____Body ( size)____________
b- Bel _______Waist _________________
c- Kalça ______Hip__________________
d- Boyun çevresi ______Neck girth______
63
10-
a-
Lided pocket (covered pocket)
Waistpocket
b-
11.
correspondences between firms & correspondences in firm
12.
pre order & additional order
13.
Offer list & Order form
14.
Parcel size, Request for bag & Conditions of putting the product in the parcel
15.
Label, Care label ve hang-tag .
64
SOURCES
SOURCES
Ø
Anonim, Singer Dikiş Ansiklopedisi ( 3 ve 10. ciltler) Bir Numara Yayıncılık ,
İstanbul.
Ø
BAYRAKTAR Fatma, Giyim, Sim Matbaası, Ankara, 1991.
Ø
CİHANGİR Erbil, Tekstil/Hazır giyimde kullanılan İngilizce/Almanca/
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