NZTV – Good Morning - My Year Without Clothes Shopping

Style 101: Body Shape
Body shape is one factor that will help you know how to dress so you
look and feel fabulous, every day.
This lesson walks through the eight (8) body shapes and shows you how
to identify yours. We then walk you through the things to wear, and to
avoid, for your specific body shape. Neat huh?
Jump in and have some fun with Week 21’s exploration on body shape!
How to figure out your body shape
•
Wearing closely fitting dark clothes (such as
leggings and a tank) and stand in front of a
mirror or look at a photograph of yourself that
shows your silhouette.
• Note the width of your shoulders and hips are they similar or is one wider than the other?
• If your hips are wider than shoulders you will
be an 8 or A shape.
• If your shoulders are wider than your hips you
will be a V shape
• If your shoulders and hips are similar then you
will be a H, 8, X or I shape
Determining Body Shape
To determine your body shape use the width of the
shoulders (not the bust), the waist and the widest point of
the hips (whether it be a high or low hip).
For example, here on this V shape body (left) you can see
that the outer edge of the shoulders is wider than the hips.
Here is an X shape (right) with shoulders and hips similar in
width.
Widest Point: X vs. 8 Shape
• Where your widest point is will determine
whether you are an X or 8 Shape.
• You can see that the X shape (woman in
black, on the left) has the widest point
down on the upper thigh area
• The 8 shape (woman in white, on the right)
has the widest point just below the waist on
the high hip.
My body shape
Once you know your body shape, it makes choosing clothing and outfits so much easier, and
quicker!
On the following pages is a detailed description of what to wear (and avoid) for each body shape.
My Body Shape
is
H
I
A
V
O
X
8
H Shape
• Similar width shoulders to hips but an undefined waist (some
waist curve, but not a lot).
• Often short waisted and frequently with a flat bottom (though
not always). Tend to look broad across the middle.
• One of the most important things to remember when you are
an H shape is that you need to find a great supportive bra keeping 'the girls' up high will give you a more defined waist.
• Wear clothes that don't focus attention on your
waist. Emphasis should either above or below the natural
waist, not on it.
H Shape continued
•
•
•
•
•
•
Look for clothes with fitting and seaming - such as
princess seams which help to create a long, lean line.
Garments like trench coats can be very hard to wear for
an H - the only ones that really work are single
breasted, already fitted and shaped, which you can tie
the belt at the back.
A wide variety of pant styles suit the H shape. From
wide legs to straight legs, bootlegs to flares, give them
a try and see what you prefer.
Keep detail above the butt and below the thighs for the
most flattering appearance.
Skirts too can be in a variety of shapes, from straight to
a-line, trumpet to bubble. The worst skirts for you are
those that gather or pleat around the waist.
Dropped waist styles work well.
H Shape continued
•
•
•
•
Tops that end just below the hip bone are often the best
length. Alternatively try a longer tunic top over a pair of
skinny jeans or leggings.
If you need to belt the tunic top, belt it low on your hips,
not at your waist.
Empire tops are often flattering, just avoid the ones with
gathers under the bust as they may make you look pregnant
Small busted Hs will have a much easier time belting
garments than larger busted Hs.
H Shape – What to Avoid
• Waisted garments and those with detail at the waist – you
don’t really have a waist so don’t try to emphasis it.
• Pockets on or near the waist – for reasons above.
• Bands on jumpers (sweaters) at the waist – again, drawing
attention to a feature you don’t possess.
• Gathered, paper bag or pleats at the waist – again with the
waist detail: don’t attempt!
• Double breasted trench coats – too boxy through the middle
for you.
• Don't bother to tuck tops in, it rarely works.
I Shape
• I body shapes tend to have similar width shoulders and hips with a
fairly undefined waist.
• They are very lean and often feel that they lack feminine curves and
describe themselves as boyish.
• There are similarities to the H shape, but they are slimmer than and
not as broad as an H shape.
• If you want to create more curves, look for volume or detail in the
areas you want to enhance.
• Layers can work well, as can flounces and volume. Trapeze styles
work on your frame.
• If you have a longer neck, high neck tops work well for you, crews,
turtle and boat necks are all great options.
I Shape continued
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Horizontal stripes work for you.
Double breasted styles can work well in jackets or coats.
Trench coats are ideal for your shape. Any sort of belted
jacket or coat should work on you.
Jeans can be wide, skinny or straight, bootleg.
If you have a flat bottom look for flaps on back
pockets. You can also wear jeans with pockets that sit on
the outside, or pocket detail on the hips.
You can rock the cargo pant too, pockets on thighs will add
extra shape.
Don't shy away from trousers that are lighter than your
tops.
I Shape continued
•
•
•
•
•
Shift dresses can look gorgeous, also try shirt dresses and
empire-baby-doll styles
Try prints and patterns such as swirls, dots and
geometrics, to add extra shape.
If you like sharply tailored styles, button-up shirts with
collars will fit your shape and flatter.
Tops with volume and banded hems can work.
Skirts can come in many shapes, from tulips to straight,
circle, gypsy and flared. Pleats and gathers work for you
too.
I Shape – What to Avoid
• If you choose to wear anything that is boxy or baggy, without
belting, it will overwhelm your figure.
• Large scale clothes with no shaping will make you look like you're
dressing up in your parents clothes.
• Very tailored shaping such as peplums that you just can't fill out
won't work for your body shape.
• Long slim shorts can emphasize your slimness and make you look
boyish.
• A-line skirts that flare from the hips can emphasize very slim
calves and legs and make them look stick like. Styles like wrap
dresses don't work so well as you are too straight for their curve
loving shape
• Soft fabrics like chiffon will emphasize any boniness and not fall
well over your shape.
• Chunky heeled shoes will appear to weigh you down.
A Shape
• The classic pear, wider hips than shoulders, usually a nicely defined
waist. Widest point is at the top of the thigh.
• Draw attention to your upper body with pattern, brighter, lighter colours,
jewellery, detail and other accessories like scarves and brooches work
fabulously well.
• Keep your bottom half in darker colours than your tops, and avoid detail
like pockets on the hips and thighs whenever possible.
• Go for waist definition - avoid anything that hangs straight off your
shoulders right down to your hips, it will add lots of weight to your
frame.
• Boxy garments like boyfriend jackets, long cardigans and tunics need to
be belted to flatter your shape.
• Look for jackets with wide collars too as they will help to broaden your
shoulders.
A shape continued
• Look for tops that add width to your shoulders, like puffed sleeves,
epaulettes, boat necks, ruched sleeves, square necklines. Set-n sleeves
are much better for you than raglan or halthernecks. Shoulder pads are
a must in jackets.
• Bootleg and flared jeans are made for your shape.
• If you want to wear skinny jeans you will need to wear them with a
longer tunic top that finishes a little above your knees. Knee high boots
will also work well for you with this look. In temperate climates you
can replace the jeans with leggings. Look for dark washes in denim,
and avoid distressing and whiskering on the thighs and around the
crotch.
• You will find it much easier to buy a skirt than a pair of pants as you'll
often get pulling across the crotch in trousers.
• Skirt shapes that are flared - A line, gored, pleats or gathers on dropped
waists are all flattering. Make sure skirts are made from a dense fabric
with some weight so it falls off your hips rather than clinging to them.
A shape continued
• Dresses like wrap and A-line styles are great on you.
• If you like longer line jackets, make sure they go down to just
above the knee (3/4 length) and are fitted and shaped.
• Most importantly, keep your tops and jackets from ending around
your low hip, horizontal lines at this area are most unflattering.
Instead, end tops and jackets at your high hip (hip bone) which
will draw a much narrower horizontal line.
• Your bottom half will need firmer fabrics; not stiff, but with
enough weight to fall without clinging and hold in your thighs.
• Cropped pants are not great for your shape, if you want to wear
them wear shoes with heels to help elongate your legs.
• Avoid pleats and gathers at your waist as they will add too much
volume.
• Wide waistbands may make trousers fit better, you will often find
that you need to take in a waistband on trousers and jeans (and
skirts).
A shape – What to Avoid
• Beware of whiskers on jeans - that fading creates horizontal
lines and detail on your crotch, and who wants your crotch
to be the focus of others gaze?
• Cargo pants pockets on the hips and patch pockets on jeans,
again, more unnecessary horizontal lines.
• Bias cut skirts do not flatter you.
• Hotpants - best left to Kylie Minogue.
• Tops that end at your thighs. You think if you pull down your
top you're covering and hiding your bum? Actually you're
drawing attention to your thighs.
• Cardigans with pockets down low.
• Horizontal banding on the bottom of cardigans or jumpers
that end on your thighs
• Jackets that end at the thigh. Instead, keep jackets ending at
the high hip, or just above the knee, not in between.
V Shape
•
•
•
•
Wider shoulders than hips, may have an undefined waist, often
shorter through the waist. May feel that hips are boyish and
shoulders are too square.
If you shoulders are significantly wider, avoid straight shaped
skirts on your lower half, you need some flare to balance your
hips. If you are only a bit wider you can wear straight, A-line and
flared skirts all equally well.
Look for tops with raglan sleeves and dolmen sleeves that will
de-emphasise your shoulders.
Collarless jackets and those with modified collars, like the
mandarin collar work well for you.
V shape continued
•
•
•
•
•
•
Look for halter necks and wider straps on sleeveless
garments. Often those cut in a little (racer back) are more
flattering than straighter shapes.
Jeans can be straight, boot cut, skinny, wide leg, trouser cut.
Gathered necklines can work for you really well.
Depending on your chin/jaw shape, which influences your best
necklines, look for Vs and Scoops, rather than Boat necks and
Square necklines if you want to make you shoulders less
prominent.
Also be aware of your neck length when choosing necklines, if
you have a shorter neck look for lower necklines to help
elongate. If you have a long neck, and a smaller bust go for
higher necklines like crew and turtlenecks.
Longer necklaces that fall to the bust or below can really work
well on V shapes as it helps to create an elongating line down the
front of your body.
V shape continued
•
•
•
•
•
If you are long waisted try belting. A tunic top that isn't fitted
and just hangs off your shoulders may need some definition
and a belt can make a difference here. Lower hip belts may
work better than waist belts.
If you have narrow hips, try wearing slightly longer tops that
end at the widest point of your hips, this will add more curve. If
you don't want to draw attention to your hips go for tops that
end just under your hip bone (the bone that juts out at the
front below your waist).
Jackets can end at the hip bone or below. Boyfriend styles may
work on your shape.
Shift dresses, shirt dresses and bias cut dresses can all be
options for you.
Go for fabrics with a some weight and structure.
V shape continued
• If you have a small bust you can really rock the trapeze shape
top. Also tops with layers of flounces or frills can really look
great.
• As you have broader shoulders than hips, you can easily wear
coloured and patterned skirts, making your bottom half the
focal point, rather than your top half.
• Wear a darker top and lighter bottom to help balance your
proportions.
• If you have a flat butt, look for detail on jeans pockets, and
pocket flaps on back pockets to give you more shape.
• You may find that your pants always work themselves down
during the day and you feel you have to hitch them up, a
higher rise may help with this.
V shape – What to Avoid
• Puffed sleeves, lots of shoulder detail such as epaulets, or
wide collars on shirts and jackets.
• Any kind of shoulder detail will make you look like an
American Football linebacker.
• Boat necks and wide lapels for the same reason above.
• Copped jackets will make you look more boxy and are better
avoided.
• Straight skirts (if you are very broad shouldered).
• Shoestring straps.
• Too much waist shaping if you don't have a defined or slim
waist.
• Avoid fabrics on your upper body that are too floppy,
especially if you tend to have a muscled appearance.
O Shape
• Rounded through the middle, often thighs are slimmer, shoulders
may be sloped a little.
• Short waisted, probably was an H or 8 shape before the extra
weight.
• You will find tops that drape past your body really make a
difference. Anything that clings won't flatter.
• If you feel you need to put a horizontal line on your body, make
sure it's in the empire position (just underneath your bust) rather
than at your waist. If the fabric is stiff make sure there are no
gathers under the bust as you will get asked about when the baby
is due.
• Layering is your friend, a dark top underneath a lighter jacket or
cardigan will help make your stomach disappear.
• Single breasted jackets are best for you. A wider collar can help
draw attention up and out.
O Shape continued
• Use that column of colour to create the longest vertical line you can.
• Create focal points around your face, rather than through your midsection.
• Keep patterns dense, but larger in scale.
• Ruching is your friend. Ruching in a top can help to hide a myriad of
secrets.
• Tunics can work really well with skinny jeans on your body shape,
especially if you have great legs. Tuck your skinny jeans into knee
high boots to balance your upper body.
• Patterns (especially when dense) can help to keep the eye moving
and not draw attention to your mid section.
• Look for fabrics that skim, without clinging. Too much Lycra in a
garment won't be flattering.
O Shape continued
• Jackets that fall no shorter than the hip bone flatter most 3/4 length can
really work.
• Jackets are great for hiding lumps and bumps, make sure the fabric is not
too stiff. Jackets are best fitted, but not too tight.
• Straighter shaped skirts work well for you, falling from your hips and
creating a longer line. Trumpet skirts that flare from the knee can also
work.
• Dresses with a knot just under the bust are a great shape for you.
• Alternatively, try a faux wrap dress that doesn't have any seaming or ties
around the waist
• Darker denims, softer denims with some stretch will work better for you
than light and stiff denims.
• Keep denim simple and clean looking.
• Have your pants hemmed as long as possible to create the longest, leanest
line.
• Trouser shape jeans are great, bootcuts also work.
O Shape – What to Avoid
• Dresses or tops with belting at the waist.
• Paper bag waist skirts or pants.
• Gathered waists on skirts and pants, tiered skirts, stiff Aline skirts.
• Pleated waist pants.
• Baby doll (empire) style tops with spaghetti straps (you
need a wider strap) and with gathering under the
bust. You can wear empire tops, but they need to be
smooth and not gathered.
• Cardigans and sweaters with banding at the waist, and
other horizontal details at the waist.
• Cropped jackets don’t flatter your shape.
• Clothes made from stiff fabrics, such as stiffer denims.
• Any sort of patch pockets anywhere on your body. Look
for pockets that are built into seams and not obvious.
X Shape
• Shoulders and hips are fairly similar in width, waist is defined and
often long.
• Widest point of the hips is at the upper thigh.
• It's all about highlighting your lovely waist. Wearing a well
supporting bra will help to enhance your waist and make it more
defined. Don't to forget to adjust your bra straps every 3 or 4
washes.
• Don't be afraid to tuck and belt.
• Try belting over cardigans and jackets as well as tops.
• The wrap dress is ideal for you. Dresses in general can really
enhance your feminine figure. From sheath dresses to shirt dresses,
try them on for size.
• Bootleg jeans are ideal for your shape. If you want to wear skinny
jeans, wear with knee-high boots over the top to balance, or a tunic
top to mid-thigh.
X Shape continued
• A-lines are your friend - whether in dress or skirt shapes. Make
sure the fabric has as soft drape so that it doesn't
sit stiffly away from your body.
• Skirts with pleats and gathers that fall from the low hip are
flattering.
• You will often find that more open necklines are the most
attractive, they draw attention up toward your face.
• Gored and trumpet shapes can work well. Look for fabrics with
some weight (but not stiffness) that doesn't cling.
• Keep tops to just under your high hip bone, avoid pulling your
tops down to hide your bottom or thighs, as this will actually
draw more attention to them.
X Shape continued
• Darker bottoms and lighter tops are more flattering for you than the other
way around.
• Skirts that end around the knee are the most flattering length.
• Wide-waistbands sit better on your waist than narrow ones.
• Single breasted jackets are more flattering than double breasted. Keep
jackets at the hip line, or 3/4 length – not in between.
• Many X shapes have shorter legs, and will find it hard to buy trousers that
don't pull across the crotch. Skirts can often work better for your shape,
especially if you have a longer rise.
• To elongate your legs when wearing trousers, match shoe colour to your
trousers, and keep the hem as long as possible, without dragging on the
ground.
• Creases down the front of your trousers will also help elongate your legs.
• Look for denims with a vertical weave.
X Shape – What to Avoid
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Lots of horizontal detail across the hips.
Patch pockets on the hips.
Tops that don't show off your defined waist.
Jackets that aren't tailored to show off your waist, and
especially those that end around your lower hips, (you're better
off with a shorter high hip length).
Distressing on jeans across your hips.
Cropped trousers will make your legs look shorter.
Low-rise jeans - commonly X shapes have a longer rise, and
need a higher rise so that when they sit down their underwear
is not exposed.
Anything boxy or square.
Ending your tops down on your low hip (same as for the A
shape).
8 Shape
• Similar width shoulders to hips (though shoulders can be narrower like
the A shape) but the widest point is at the high hip, rather than down on
the thighs.
• You may describe your hips as a ‘shelf’.
• The thighs are often slimmer, though sometimes can carry weight. The
waist is defined, but often short.
• 8s can have either equal width shoulders to hips, or narrower shoulders
to hips. If you have a narrower shoulder line, refer to the A shape for
dressing your upper body (don't take the tips for lower body from the A).
• Clothes that suit best have waist definition, and are straight through the
lower half (not flared or A-line).
• Straight or bootcut jeans work well.
8 Shape continued
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Cropped jackets work for you, as do belted styles such as
trench coats. If you want to wear trends like the boyfriend
jacket, leave open, then belt over it.
Peplums were made for 8 shapes.
Try belting over a long line cardigan in a fine knit.
look for coats and jackets with pockets set into the garment,
rather than stitched onto the outside.
Wide waistbands work well on trousers and skirts.
Slim, flat-front trousers work well. Avoid pleats at the waist as
they will be pulled open and create unnecessary bulk.
Try a variety of belts at your natural waist. If you have a
shorter waist try a thinner belt, if you have a longer waist you
may be able to do a wider belt.
8 Shape continued
•
•
•
•
Skirts are best when they are straight; they flare from the knee,
but not from the hip, and are flattering.
You may or may not have a rounded bottom, though rounded
bottoms are more common amongst 8 shapes. If you do, avoid
flap pockets on jeans.
Open necklines look great on 8 shapes, they draw attention up
toward your face. Look for detail around the neckline to help do
this.
If you have narrower shoulders, look for puffed sleeves, shoulder
detail and ruched sleeves to balance your bottom
8 Shape – What to Avoid
• Flare from the waist - such as dirndl or circle, or any sort of pleat
from the waist.
• Skirts that are gathered or pleated from the waist, unless they
are that 1950s flounce style.
• Tulip or overly tapered skirts or trousers.
• Short shorts.
• Anything boxy or square, without waist shaping, tends to be too
tight across their high hip area.
• Longer jackets that don't have lots of waist shaping and flare
from the waist.
• Double breasted jackets and coats as there isn't enough shaping
and the extra fabric creates bulk.
• Anything that is not fitted at the waist or can be belted to fit
your waist.
• Pocket flaps and lots of pocket detail on jeans.
• Wide leg trousers and jeans.
Wrap Up: Body Shape
Ok, that’s our wrap up from Week 21 –
lots of great information here!
We hope you had some fun and
learned lots with Week 21’s
exploration on body shape!
The following page has some
reflection questions before we wave
goodbye and see you next week!
Questions to ponder
What has surprised me from this week’s lesson? What has been the most interesting?
I still have questions about….
We’ll continue our exploration of style and shape next week – more to come here!