Bicycle, Skike and Walking Paths

Transcription

Bicycle, Skike and
Walking Paths
INDEX:
1
CVIČEK TRAIL
..................................................
4
2
FROM OTOČEC TO TERME ŠMARJEŠKE TOPLICE
..................................................
6
3
FAMILY TRAIL
..................................................
8
4
SEVEN HILLS OF NOVO MESTO
..................................................
10
5
CHERRY TRAIL
..................................................
12
6
CASTLE TRAIL
..................................................
14
7
SKIKE FIGURE-EIGHT LOOP
..................................................
16
8
TO THE ŠERUGA HOMESTEAD
..................................................
18
9
TO TERME DOLENJSKE TOPLICE
..................................................
20
10
WET-FOOT TRAIL
..................................................
22
11
WINEGROWING HILLS AND MEADOWS
..................................................
24
12
VENICE OF DOLENJSKA
..................................................
26
13
FROM WATER MILLS TO CASTLES
..................................................
28
14
SPRING OF YOUTH
..................................................
30
15
GORJANCI HILLS ON FOOT
..................................................
32
CVIČEK TRAIL
1
Description: Picturesque trail with wonderful views across
winegrowing hills
Level of difficulty: Moderate
Length: 20km; elevation gain: 515m
Matjaževa Domačija homestead
5h
LINKS:
1:20–1:50 h
• Seven Hills of Novo mesto – No. 4 • Janez Trdina Trail
Directions and highlights
[m]
650
600
550
500
450
400
350
300
250
200
150
100
50
From Šmarješke Toplice to Hotels Otočec along Route 2 or 3 to Herinja Vas.
Nova Gora
Sv. Jurij
Grad Hmeljnik
Paha
Trška gora
Jelše pri Otočcu
+20%
-15%
Hoteli Otočec
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
[km]
Take the gravel path from Otočec Sports Centre, pass the Roma settlement and then proceed to the
junction with the asphalt road, right through the village of Dobova, over the motorway to Herinja
Vas and up to the village of Paha.
The stroll through the village of Paha and up to the vineyards is absolutely stunning. Enjoy the
beautiful view of the Krka river valley, the Gorjanci Hills and Old Castle (Stari grad). Not yet open
to visitors, this spectacular 13th-century castle building can only be admired from the outside.
Following World War II, during which the castle was razed, its new owners renovated a part of the
building. You will find a typical Lower Carniolan homestead in the village of Paha – Matjaževa
Domačija – where you can visit a 200-year-old barn and see a multimedia presentation of the
history of winegrowing and Cviček, a light reddish wine typical of the region. (For a booking, call
00386 (0)41 880 813).
Continue uphill along the same road, to the Church of St George (sv. Jurij) in Gornje Grčevje and
then on to the summit (Nova Gora, 605 m.a.s.l.). At the signpost for Jagodnik, turn left through
the woods and head towards the ruins of Hmeljnik Castle.
The first historical reference to Hmeljnik Castle dates from 1217. Originally, it was a typical fortified manor with two Romanesque residential wings and a staircase tower. In the 15th and 16th
centuries the building got a double fortified wall and round towers for added protection against
marauding Turkish armies. Destroyed by fire in 1942, it is currently up for restoration as a cultural
monument.
From the castle, take the right forest path to the asphalt road, then go left through the village of
Dolenje Kamence, where a wonderful view opens up once you reach the first vineyard cottages.
Make a sharp left turn at the crossroads some 300m later, to the ridge of Trška Gora (not signposted). Continue along the ridge towards the summit of Trška Gora and the Church of St Mary
(turn left at the small wayside shrine).
Trška Gora is a vine-clad hill above the town of Novo Mesto, the home of Cviček, a fragrant light
reddish wine native to the Dolenjska region. Interestingly, the wine was known to have been given
on prescription. On the summit there is the Church of the Birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary,
where you can revel in a stunning view of Novo Mesto, the Gorjanci Hills and the river Krka; next
to the church stands a giant lime tree, which is over 100 years old and has a girth of 830cm, the
biggest in the whole region.
To return to Otočec, go down the slope from the church, back to the wine barrel, then turn right
onto the asphalt road running through the woods. There are two ways to reach Črešnjice:
a) A footpath to the valley of Old Castle (Stari Grad): Continue through the woods straight along
the gravel path for 300m, go down the 800m-long stretch of the asphalt road to the asphalt
crossroads, then turn right to reach the centre of the village of Črešnjice. Turn left at the hedge next
to the recycling point, then after 80m take the forest trail down to the valley of the Lešnica stream.
Once in the valley, turn right and take the asphalt road past Old Castle (Stari Grad), then proceed
to the village of Otočec.
b) Cyclists are advised to continue straight along the path and then turn right soon afterwards.
Ride down a steep slope past vineyard cottages all the way to Krkin Hram, a thatched vineyard
cottage on Trška Gora which serves homemade food for groups. (Booking is essential – tel: 00386
(0)7 39 42 100) Turn left here and follow the road. After a short ascent, the path will take you left
past the vineyard cottage of the Colnar family. Continue down a steep incline through Črešnjice
(Old Castle, or Stari Grad, should be directly in front of you), then turn right to Jelše pri Otočcu.
Finish the descent from Trška Gora by passing under the motorway outside the village of Otočec,
where you turn left uphill and then immediately right into the village. Go past the primary school
and continue right towards an underpass and into the centre of the village of Otočec. On the main
road turn left in the direction of Otočec Castle and Terme Šmarješke Toplice, to reach the third castle
on this route, Otočec Castle Hotel. It is a mere 3km ride along the road following the course of
the river Krka.
Otočec Castle, with its typical architecture and location on an island in the river Krka, is one of
the most beautiful spots in Slovenia. First mentioned in 1252, today the castle incorporates an
exquisite restaurant, luxury (five-star) hotel accommodation and a popular wedding venue. We
recommend a stroll through the wonderful castle park. The river Krka, flowing by the castle,
features numerous sand spits and islets.
Take Route 2 to get from Otočec Hotels to Šmarješke Toplice.
FROM OTOČEC TO TERME
ŠMARJEŠKE TOPLICE
2
Description: The quickest way from Otočec to Terme Šmarješke Toplice
and back on a quiet gravel road
Level of difficulty: Undemanding, easy walking path
Length: 8.8km; elevation gain: 135m
2h
0:35–0:55 h
1h
Terme Šmarješke Toplice
Lotus
Directions and highlights
[m]
Dobovo
250
225
Hoteli
Otočec
200
Lutrško selo
The Otočec–Lutrško selo–Dobovo–Šmarješke Toplice–Dol. Kronovo walking and cycling route
passes the village of Gor. Kronovo. The path from Otočec Sports Centre via Dobovo to Terme Šmarješke
Toplice is marked by Nordic walking signposts (Route 2) and road signs from the thermal spa via Kronovo. It is marked in both directions, so you can start your trek at Terme Šmarješke Toplice or Otočec.
+12%
Kronovo
-23%
Gorenje Kronovo
175
150
125
100
75
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
50
25
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
[km]
The first route marker in Otočec is adjacent to the sporting grounds, north of the sports centre.
Cross the meadow and turn right along the asphalt road. At Lutrško Selo, turn left, go through the
village, cross the flyover and then immediately turn right onto the gravel path leading to a small
bridge over a stream. Go up across the meadow to Dobovo, left along the road, past the houses,
then turn right at the signpost onto the gravel route leading up through the woods, which are part
of the Terme Šmarješke Toplice grounds. After a 20-minute walk in the woods, a steep descent
down the path takes you straight into the Terme Šmarješke Toplice park.
Otočec Sports Centre offers possibilities for skiking, tennis and other ball games. It incorporates a
bistro, fitness centre and a small sauna centre with whirlpool baths and massage therapies.
Recommended detour: If you take the short Route 6 at Otočec, you can visit Otočec and Struga
castles, as well as the golf course.
The Tango restaurant, boasting a large shaded terrace, serves lunches, dinners, desserts, ice
cream and refreshing drinks.
Otočec Castle is a cultural monument of national importance. Its characteristic architecture and
location on an island in the river Krka make it one of the most admired landmarks in Slovenia.
First mentioned in 1252, today the castle houses a highly rated (five-star) hotel with an excellent
restaurant and a popular wedding hall. A walk in the wonderful castle park by the river Krka is
quite simply a must.
Surrounded by Nordic walking trails, Terme Šmarješke Toplice is best known and most valued
for its cardiovascular treatments, range of services for athletes, and state-of-the-art Vitarium
Spa&Clinique wellness centre. The centre runs relaxation programmes aimed at weight loss, detoxification and health improvement. Among the various pools available is also a unique wooden
pool sitting on top of a thermal spring. You can enjoy refreshments on the hotel terrace, or take
the botanical trail through the park to see the pond with lotuses.
Cyclists can return to Otočec Hotels along the local road running in the direction of Novo Mesto.
If you are on foot, there is a pleasant, quiet way through the Terme Šmarješke Toplice park. Follow
the sandy trail on the right bank of the stream to the village of Šmarješke Toplice, then continue
to the third wooden bridge and cross it. Follow the roadside pavement to the village of Družinska
Vas, where you can visit the Košak mill. At the Pri Jovotu inn in the village of Družinska Vas, head
for the village of Kronovo (its Church of St Nicholas, dating from 1739, houses a famous fresco).
Continuing from the church along the lane leading down to the river Krka, you reach a small (16.8
ha) island. Here you should turn right onto the local road running along fields in the direction of
Otočec. After 2km, take the underpass in the direction of Lutrško Selo and continue for a further
kilometre to Otočec Sports Centre.
Recommended detour: If, from Kronovo, you head in the direction of Šentjernej and stop at
Draga (2km one way), from the overpass you can see the small Church of St Helen where Sts Cyril
and Methodius were said to have held a mass en route to Rome in the 9th century. You can take a
short break there and have a refreshing sip of pure spring water.
The Krka is the longest Slovenian river with both its source and its mouth within the country’s
borders. The tufa (travertine) cascades and calcite islets, many of which can be seen in the vicinity
of Otočec Castle, are natural characteristics of the river. In the past local people would harvest
this sedimentary rock building up in the river bed and use it to build houses; today, however,
the cascades are protected. The creation of islands, which provide habitat for a variety of flora, is
a dynamic and ongoing process, since high water levels continuously cause the deposit of river
debris and the creation of new friable river banks. At a medium water level, one can distinguish
around 30 islets in the Krka between Otočec and Struga Castle. Rich in fish, the river is also home
to numerous swans and ducks.
Struga Castle is located on a terrace on the right bank of the river Krka, a stone’s throw from
Otočec Castle. A fine example of 16th-century architecture, Struga Castle stands in a prominent location close to the river Krka, as a result of which it is one of the most important monuments in the
Dolenjska region. It was also given renown due to its inclusion in the novel entitled “The Island and
the Stream” by the acclaimed Slovenian author Ivan Tavčar. Adjacent to the castle is an expansive
18-hole golf course, reputedly one of the most well-kept and attractive golf locations in Slovenia.
In addition to affording a beautiful panorama, the “19th hole” of course offers refreshments.
FAMILY TRAIL
3
Description: Along the byways from Otočec to Terme Šmarješke
Toplice and back in the embrace of vineyards
Level of difficulty: Suitable for families with small children
3–4 h
Stari grad (Old castle)
LINKS:
0:40–1 h
• The Cviček Trail – No. 1
DIRECTIONS AND HIGHLIGHTS
Start off at Otočec Sports Centre. Walk along the river Krka and past a wooden bridge leading to
Otočec Castle.
[m]
325
Šmarješke Toplice
300
275
Otočec Castle is a cultural monument of national importance. Its characteristic architecture and
location on an island in the river Krka make it one of the most admired landmarks in Slovenia.
First mentioned in 1252, today the castle houses a first-class (five-star) hotel with an excellent
restaurant and a popular wedding hall. A walk in the wonderful castle park by the river Krka is
quite simply a must.
Otočec
250
Kronovo
225
200
Herinja vas
Hoteli Otočec
-8%
+13%
175
150
125
100
asfalt/asphalt
12
Continue on the asphalt road running along the left bank of the river Krka to Dol. Kronovo.
To the right, across the river, you can see Struga Castle and a golf course. In the village of
Družinska Vas, to the right, there is the Church of St Nicholas, which dates from 1739 and houses
a famous fresco. From the church, take the cart track leading down to the river Krka and visit the
largest river island in the country. In Družinska Vas you can visit the Košak mill.
Follow the roadside pavement from Kronovo.
Recommended detour: If, from Kronovo, you head in the direction of Šentjernej and stop at
Draga (2km one way), from the overpass you can see the small Church of St Helen where Sts Cyril
and Methodius were said to have held a mass en route to Rome in the 9th century. You can take a
short break there and have a refreshing sip of pure spring water.
From Kronovo, head in the direction of Šmarješke Toplice. Go through the park past Terme Šmarješke
Toplice and follow the road leading up to Žaloviče. The climb ends at a small chapel, but continue
walking straight ahead (direction Trška Gora) towards the old village of Šmarješke Toplice. The
road straight through the village takes you to the fields where you can marvel at beautiful grass
terraces. Continue walking until you reach another small chapel. At the chapel, located at the junction, make a right turn up towards Paha, then soon afterwards left to Herinja Vas.
Terme Šmarješke Toplice is best known and most valued for its cardiovascular treatments, range
of services for athletes, and state-of-the-art Vitarium Spa&Clinique wellness centre. Among the
various pools available is also a unique wooden pool sitting on top of a thermal spring. You
can enjoy refreshments on the hotel terrace, or take the botanical trail through the park to see the
pond with lotuses. With 25 different bird species, the area is a birdwatcher’s paradise.
Recommended detour: If you want to take a stroll through vineyards affording wonderful views,
turn right in Herinja Vas and go down a steep slope towards Old Castle (Stari Grad). You will see
Trška Gora straight ahead and the wine hills of Paha to your right.
Old Castle sits on a naturally defensible slope above the Lešnica stream. The first historical reference to the castle dates back to 1300. Among its many owners was the gentleman author Janez
Sigismund Breckerfeld (1689–1760), whose work includes books on Carniola and the local
gentry, a dictionary of four main European languages, etc. The oldest part of the castle features an
original early Gothic tower dating from the 13th century, and in the 14th and 15th centuries two
flanking residential wings were added. The castle was burned down in World War II and partially
rebuilt after the war. It is now closed to visitors; however, extensive restoration work would undoubtedly breathe life back into this magificent listed building, a designated cultural monument.
Go down to the valley from the centre of Herinja Vas, to the motorway underpass, then straight
towards the primary school in the village of Otočec. Go through the new block of houses and turn
right. Take the underpass beneath the local road and head into the village centre. Then make a left
turn onto the road leading past the cemetery and farther on along the Krka, towards Otočec Castle
and Šmarješke Toplice.
The first historical reference to the village of Otočec, when the village was called St Peter
(Šentpeter), dates back to 1351. The cemetery adjacent to St Peter’s Church features several large
tombstones belonging to the Schweiger-Lerchenfeld family, former masters of Otočec Castle.
SEVEN HILLS OF NOVO MESTO
4
Description: Feel the pulse of the laid-back old town of Novo Mesto
Level of difficulty: Easy, flat terrain, quite long
Novo mesto
Chapter Church
LINKS:
5:30 h
1:10 h–1:40 h
• Through the Krka Valley – K1
• Temenica Karst River Trail – P16
• Sub-Alpine Trail
[m]
275
vas Krka
250
Hoteli
Otočec
200
Kettejev drevored
Ragov most
Dolenja vas
225
Take Route 2 to get from Šmarješke Toplice to Otočec.
Bar Palček
Kapitelj
+13%
Lešnica
-11%
175
150
125
Located on an island in the river Krka, Otočec Castle was first mentioned in written records in
1252. Its exterior and interior reveal a mixture of three styles: Gothic, Renaissance and baroque.
Today it is one of the most beautiful landmarks in Slovenia, boasting a first-class restaurant, a
luxury (five-star) hotel and a wedding hall.
100
75
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
50
25
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
Follow the river Krka from Otočec Castle, head down into the village of Otočec, turn left (direction
Gumberk), cross the wooden bridge and head right to the village of Žihovo Selo. Cross the road,
turn right and follow the cart track running along the river and through the woods all the way to
the village of Krka. Continue to Graben and Ragovo, then head right for the Ragov Log forest.
18
20 [km]
The river Krka: noted for its tufa (travertine) rapids, cascades and islets.
Ragov Log is a small forest, an oasis of peace and tranquility, as well as a popular spot for walking.
You can see two waterfalls on the river Krka from here.
Cross the Ragovo footbridge on the Krka and you are in Novo Mesto. Once in the town centre,
head up to the Chapter Church of St Nicholas, then down again past the Museum of Dolenjska
(Dolenjski Muzej). Continue to Kandija Bridge and, halfway across, turn around and take a different look at the town centre. You’ll see the waterfront embankment (Breg) to the west and the
town’s Franciscan monastery, perched on a cliff above the river, to the east. Return to the end of
the bridge where you came from and turn left with your back to the tea house. Take the left path
(to the west) down to the Krka and continue upriver along the Zupančič Promenade. Across the
river to the left, adjacent to the hospital, stands the villa which used to be the home of the
beautiful Julija Primic, the muse of Slovenia’s greatest poet, France Prešeren.
Novo Mesto: Rich in history, the old town lies on a picturesque bend in the river Krka. Hapsburg
Archduke Rudolph IV granted the town a civil charter in 1365; indeed, the Hapsburg hegemony
over this land continued until 1918. In the era of national awakening during the second half of the
19th century, the first National House on Slovenian territory, furthering the indigenous language and culture, opened in Novo Mesto. Standing in the centre of the old town, the Chapter
Church of St Nicholas dates from the early 14th century. The outstanding interior boasts an altar
painting of St Nicholas by Tintoretto (Call +386 (0)7 384 44 13 to arrange for a visit).
Museum of Dolenjska (Dolenjski Muzej) – archaeological, ethnological and historical collections (Tel. +386 (0)7 37 311 30).
With its 15th-century church, the Franciscan monastery boasts a 500-year-old library with over
3,000 volumes and numerous incunabula (For a tour of the library, call +386 (0)7 33 814 73). The
parish and monastery Church of St Leonard houses paintings by Valentin Metzinger.
Jakac House (Jakčev Dom) – A gallery exhibiting paintings by the acclaimed Slovenian painter
Božidar Jakac (1899–1989), along with other guest artists.
Novo Mesto’s main square, with the Town Hall and Tourist Information Centre (TIC), has a wealth
of boutiques, restaurants and bars. In the square you will also find a well inscribed with verses by
Slovenian poet Dragotin Kette, the Situla Hostel and the Simulaker Gallery. The 75-metre-long
single-span Kandija Bridge, erected in 1898, is one of the oldest iron bridges in Slovenia.
Breg – A famous block of 18th-century houses perched on a near-vertical embankment above
the river Krka. Novi Dvor, a riverside manor house, was once the home of Julija Primic, the muse
and inspiration of Slovenia’s greatest romantic poet, France Prešeren.
Go under the bridge, passing the sporting grounds, to reach Loka (restaurant and jetty), then continue
past the railway line to Bršljin. Keep to the right soon after the train station and cross the main road
to Marof (a hill and vantage point above Novo Mesto) and to Kette’s Walk. From the summit, descend
eastwards to Ločna (Krka pharmaceutical factory) and continue towards Otočec along the river Krka
via Lešnica. Follow Route 2 to get back from Otočec to Terme Šmarješke Toplice.
Loka – Sporting grounds, promenade, riverside restaurant, jetty, view of the river, footbridge.
Kette’s Walk – The 1,500m-long horse chestnut promenade leads up away from the river to the
site of an Iron Age hilltop fortification at Marof. In all, 370 trees have been planted, and the southern part affords a nice view of the old town of Novo Mesto.
Rich archaeological finds unearthed at Mestne Njive (literally, town fields) and Marof testify to
settlements dating as far back as the Late Iron Age (i.e. 8th–4th century B.C.). Following the
discovery of ornamented bronze situlae – along with numerous other bronze finds which
place Novo Mesto amongst Europe’s most important centres of the Hallstatt culture – the town
was aptly nicknamed “Situla Town”.
Old Castle (Stari Grad) sits above the Lešnica stream under Trška Gora. First mentioned in written
records in 1300 and destroyed in World War II, a part of the castle underwent restoration after the
war. It is now closed to visitors; however, extensive restoration work would undoubtedly breathe
life back into this magificent listed building, a designated cultural monument.
11
CHERRY TRAIL
5
Description: A picturesque route from Otočec to Brusnice,
famous for its cherries and azaleas
Otočec Castle
LINKS:
0:50–1:10 h
• Across the Šentjernej Plain – K9 • Gorjanci Hills On Foot – No. 15
Take Route 2 to get from Šmarješke Toplice to Otočec.
[m]
Križe
325
Velike Brusnice
Petelinjek
300
Otočec
275
+24%
Sela pri Ratežu
250
From Otočec Castle head north along the left bank of the river Krka to the village of Otočec.
Ratež
Located on an island in the river Krka, Otočec Castle is one of the most beautiful landmarks in
Slovenia. First mentioned in 1252, the castle now boasts luxury (five-star) hotel accommodation,
a fine restaurant and a popular wedding venue.
-12%
225
Hoteli Otočec
200
River Krka: Noted for its sedimentary tufa (travertine) rapids, cascades and islets.
175
150
125
asfalt/asphalt
100
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14 [km]
Head left in the centre of the village of Otočec (direction Gumberk) and cross the wooden bridge
over the Krka. Go through the centre of Dolenja Vas and across the meadows to Sela pri Ratežu.
You can stop for some refreshments at the Šeruga homestead before continuing to the western
end of Ratež. Turn right onto the main road to Novo Mesto, passing the Gostilna Mrak inn. Turn left
in the village of Petelinjek and follow the road to Potov Vrh and Križe. At Križe, turn left at the fire
station and climb up two winegrowing hills, Slatenska Gora and Bednje. Continue along the main
asphalt road, which leads to two descents and two ascents to the hill summits. Your efforts will be
rewarded with a magnificent view. The path then leads through the woods, past some wayside
shrines (crosses), to the village of Brusnice.
Located in Sela pri Ratežu, the Medle homestead grows organic fruit and vegetables; here you
may also meet their son Sandi, a famous resident of the Slovenian Big Brother House, who will be
delighted to serve you some excellent homemade brandies.
Another place well worth visiting is the traditional Šeruga homestead (farm tourism), where you
can sample traditional country food and relax by the stream. (Tel. +386 (0)7 33 46 900)
At Križe, take the remarkable scenic route into the hills from where you can observe the Krka
Valley between Novo Mesto and the vine-clad Trška Gora and Vinji Vrh. To the east is the high ridge
of the Gorjanci Hills.
The village of Brusnice is famous for its cherries, known as Brusnice crunchies (brusniške hrustavke), and the unique Rhododendron luteum plant, known as the yellow azalea. Quite rare in
Europe, the latter grows nowhere else in Slovenia but Brusnice. The name of the village itself
derives from the Slovenian word for cranberries (brusnice), which thrive in the surrounding forests.
Brusnice is also nicknamed Cat’s Valley (Mačja Dolina), and there are a number of stories as
to the origin of this epithet. One tells of a girl from Brusnice who married into a village where
people did not have a very good opinion on the people from Brusnice. Besides wine, the wedding
guests really enjoyed the roast, which tasted a little bit like rabbit, but it wasn’t. The guests all put
together their knowledge of game meat, but still couldn’t figure out what sort of meat they were
eating. When the guessing game was over, one of the locals meowed. The food immediately stuck
in their throats, and there was a great deal of resentment. Foul words were exchanged and a huge
fight ensued, though the legend does not relate its outcome. The Cherry Festival, an opportunity
to savour culinary delights made by local housewives, is held in Brusnice every year. At this occasion, a parade of farm wagons evokes the memory of old customs and humorous events.
Turn left in the village of Brusnice and proceed downhill. Descend among the houses (keep to the
right), past the Church of the Holy Cross, to the main road, then head left towards Ratež and
Novo Mesto.
Leaving the beautiful Brusnice valley at the foot of the mighty Gorjanci Hills, turn right onto the
main road at the Gostilna Vovko inn and head towards Šentjernej. When after about 1km you see a
signpost (left) for Otočec, turn left onto a narrow forest trail. Pass through the forest to the turning
for the Otočec golf course. Here you can enjoy the view of the incredibly scenic links, small lakes
and Struga Castle.
At Struga Castle, continue along the unpaved path towards Otočec Castle. You will reach the asphalt road near the Otočec campsite, situated on the bank of the river Krka, before returning to your
starting point via Otočec Castle.
Located close to the river Krka and up for restoration, Struga Castle is a fine example of a fortified
16th-century mansion and one of the region’s most important monuments.
Adjacent to the castle is an expansive 18-hole golf course, reputedly one of the most well-kept and
attractive golf locations in Slovenia. Here you can enjoy beautiful views and get some refreshments.
Follow Route 2 to get from Otočec to Šmarješke Toplice.
13
CASTLE TRAIL
6
Description: A gentle stroll to two castles by the river Krka
Level of difficulty: Easy, suitable for families
1h
0:20–0:35 h
0:45 h
Otočec Castle
Follow Route 2 to get from Šmarješke Toplice to Otočec.
[m]
275
Go from Otočec Hotels past the Tango restaurant down the asphalt road to the motorway underpass and left over the wooden bridge past Otočec Castle. After the bridge, continue along the
river Krka past the Otočec campsite and from there follow the gravel road running parallel with
the river.
250
225
Grad Struga
Grad Otočec
200
+13%
Hoteli Otočec
175
-7%
150
125
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
100
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
2,5
3
3,5
4[km]
Visitors are often astonished by the beauty and mystery of Otočec Castle, one of Slovenia’s 38
listed buildings. A remarkable architectural landmark, the castle is set on a picturesque island in
the river Krka. Initially, it had no protective walls, they were built later. Note the embrasures on the
left side of the entrance. One of the three towers in the courtyard used to house a chapel in which
castle lords would celebrate mass. Deriving from three historical periods, the castle, apart from its
unique setting, boasts a number of architectural distinctions. Indeed, the Gothic, Renaissance and
baroque styles all left a most distinct and appealing mark on the castle. The island on which the
castle stands was once attached to the mainland. Legend has it that a jealous count, suspecting
his wife was rather too enthusiastic about some local suitors, dug a channel to prevent her from
eloping. However, the island was most likely created to provide more effective protection against
marauding Ottoman Turk armies.
builds up in the river bed, and in the past local people would cut and harvest it to build houses;
today, however, the river and its natural features are protected. The tufa islets and spits provide a
habitat for a variety of flora, and their creation is a dynamic, ongoing process, since high water
levels continuously cause the deposit of river debris and the creation of new friable river banks. At
a medium water level one can distinguish some 30 islets in the Krka between Otočec and Struga
Castle. Rich in fish, the river also provides a habitat for numerous swans and ducks.
Severely damaged in World War II, the castle underwent substantial restoration after the war. Refurbished again in 2007 by Terme Krka, today it is a five-star hotel with an exquisite restaurant; it
is also a popular venue for weddings and other events.
The final stretch of the trail bends to the right and up into a gentle slope, and after 100m you will
see Struga Castle and a golf course. Continue walking and go right, following the trail lined with
a white fence past the golf course (left). At the end of this trail, make a sharp right turn and go
down the asphalt road. After 100m you will be back at the Otočec campsite. Recross the bridge
past Otočec Castle, then return to Otočec Sports Centre along the same route.
The Krka is the longest river in Slovenia with both its source and its mouth within the country’s
borders. The two-kilometre stretch of the river between the village of Otočec and Struga Castle
drops four metres and features many examples of tufa (travertine) cascades. This sedimentary rock
Struga Castle is located on a terrace on the right (south) bank of the river Krka, a stone’s throw
from Otočec Castle. The courthouse, whose first historical reference dates back to 1449, was rebuilt
in the 16th century by Karel Jurič. The Jurič nobility held the estate until the 19th century, when it
became the property of the Knights of Fichtenau.
A fine example of 16th-century architecture, Struga Castle stands in a prominent location close to
the river Krka, as a result of which it is one of the most significant castles in the Dolenjska region. It
was also given renown due to its inclusion in the novel entitled “The Island and the Stream” by the
acclaimed Slovenian author Ivan Tavčar.
Adjacent to the castle is an expansive 18-hole golf course, reputedly one of the most well-kept
and attractive golf locations in the country. Here you can enjoy beautiful views and get some
refreshments.
Follow Route 2 to get back to Terme Šmarješke Toplice..
Golf course at Otočec
15
SKIKE FIGURE-EIGHT LOOP
7
Description: A short trail along gravel and asphalt byways between
Otočec and Lutrško Selo
Level of difficulty: Little traffic, suitable for skikers and families with
small children
0:15–0:25 h
0:25 h
Skike
Skiking can best be described as Nordic roller-skating with the help of poles, or as a summer version of
skating using the cross-country skiing technique. It involves a lot of fun and action and has a positive effect
on the health and well-being.
[m]
250
Prapreče
Lutrško selo
You can either rent or purchase skike equipment at Otočec Sports Centre, which also offers skiking courses
and packages with affordable accommodation at Hotel Šport.
225
+7%
200
-7%
Hoteli Otočec
175
150
125
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
100
75
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
2,5
3
[km]
Otočec Castle
The path runs down from Otočec Sports Centre to the turning where you head left in the direction
of Lutrško Selo. After 600 metres, turn left at the crossroads and continue towards the village.
At the first farm in Lutrško Selo, make a left turn again and cross the flat stretch of land to reach a
600m-long gravel path. Head for the forest and follow the gentle climb up to the Pleško farmstead
(which grows vegetables and strawberries), then go back down to Otočec Sports Centre.
Otočec Castle is a monument of national importance. Its characteristic architecture and setting on
an island in the river Krka make it one of the most admired landmarks in the country. First mentioned in 1252, today the castle houses a first-class (five-star) hotel with an excellent restaurant
and a popular wedding hall. A walk in the wonderful castle park by the river Krka is quite simply
a must.
Otočec Hotels
Prapreče, a small hamlet near Lutrško Selo, with three hilltop houses, affords a nice view of the
sports centre, golf course and Trdinov Vrh, the highest point on the Gorjanci ridge.
17
TO THE ŠERUGA HOMESTEAD
8
Description: Recommended for families, nature lovers and those
who like genuine hospitality
Level of difficulty: Easy
2h
0:30–0:50 h
Šeruga farm
Follow Route 2 to get from Šmarješke Toplice to Otočec.
[m]
Šeruga
300
Head from Otočec Sports Centre towards Otočec Castle. At the junction with a local road by the
river Krka, turn right in the direction of Novo Mesto and follow the local road above the river.
275
Dolenja vas
250
Gumberk
Otočec Castle is a monument of national importance. Its characteristic architecture and setting
on an island in the river Krka make it one of the most admired landmarks in the country. First
mentioned in 1252, today the castle houses a first-class (five-star) hotel with an excellent restaurant and a popular wedding hall. A walk in the wonderful castle park by the river Krka is highly
recommended.
225
200
+13%
Hoteli Otočec
-10%
175
150
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
125
100
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
[km]
After visiting the homesteads, return to Otočec:
a) By bicycle right through Sela past the Medle farm and through the village of Dolenja Vas,
b) On foot from the Šeruga farm to the hamlet of Gumberk and then almost as far as the bridge
over the river Krka.
To avoid the busy road, turn onto a forest trail about 50 metres before the bridge. This trail leads
along the south bank of the river to the meadow at Otočec Castle.
Go past the cemetery to the village of Otočec and on to pizzeria and restaurant Šentpeter, where
you make a sharp left turn towards Gumberk and cross the wooden bridge over the Krka. After a
short climb, turn right at the wayside cross and follow the Struga stream.
The Šeruga farm is known for its dedication to heritage and tradition. Here you can sample
homemade country food and drinks in a relaxing ambiance created by the stream. (Bookings:
+386 (0)7 33 46 900)
Recommended detour: If you continue from Sela to Ratež (another 300m or so), you come to the
Pod Klančkom inn, known for its roast lamb and suckling pigs, as well as trout and mushroom
dishes.
Located in Sela pri Ratežu, the Medle homestead grows organic fruit and vegetables; here you
may also meet their son Sandi, a famous resident of the Slovenian Big Brother House, who will be
delighted to serve you some excellent homemade brandies.
Follow Route 2 to get to Šmarješke Toplice.
19
TO TERME DOLENJSKE TOPLICE
9
Description: Follow the river Krka in the valley and go up the
gently rolling winegrowing slopes below the ridge
of the Gorjanci Hills
2:20–2:50 h
Balnea Wellness Centre
LINKS:
[m]
Hrib pri Orehku
400
Terme Dolenjske Toplice
Črmošnjice pri Stopičah
Dobin dol
350
Veliki Slatnik
Birčna vas
300
Straža
Novo mesto
Lešnica
250
Petelinjek
-15%
Stranska vas
+10%
Češča vas
Hoteli
Otočec
200
• Krka Valley – K1 (Straža – Žužemberk)
• Dolenjska (Lower Carniola) to Bela Krajina (White Carniola) – K3
• Sub-Alpine Trail
• Krka Valley – P19
• Temenica Karst River Trail – P16
• European Long-Distance Footpath – E7
150
At Otočec Castle, go right along the river Krka in the direction of Novo Mesto.
100
50
With its characteristic architecture and location on an island in the river Krka, Otočec Castle is one
of the most admired landmarks in Slovenia.
asfalt/asphalt
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
55 [km]
To the north of Lešnica you will see Trška Gora, the home of Cviček, a light reddish wine known
to have been given on prescription. To the right (east) of Trška Gora is the 13th-century Old Castle
(Stari Grad).
that, you can relax in the warm pools of the Balnea Wellness Centre or check out the culture &
convention facilities with its tourist information centre, where you can get further information
about the resort and other places of interest.
In Novo Mesto, follow the signs for Mirna Peč, and from the Tuš petrol station the signposts for Češča
Vas and Straža. In the village of Češča Vas, continue towards Zalog and Straža. From Straža, follow the
road in the direction of Kočevje. At the entrance to the village of Gorenje Polje, make a left turn onto
the quiet road to Dolenjske Toplice. At Dolenje Polje, move away from the Krka: Cross the wooden
bridge and turn left onto the main road, then go down past the school to Dolenjske Toplice.
After visiting the spa, continue towards Uršna Sela. Pass through the villages of Dolenje and Gorenje Sušice, then climb up to Dobindol.
Novo Mesto is a town with a rich history and a picturesque old town centre. (For more information, see Route 4.)
There is a velodrome, a Junior World Cycling Championships venue, in Češča Vas.
The river Krka, with weirs and remains of water mills and sawmills, meanders through the village
of Straža. To the right you will see the winegrowing slopes of Straška Gora.
Dolenjske Toplice is a tectonic spa whose hot springs yield water at a temperature of 38°C from a
depth of one kilometre. These beneficial springs, captured beneath Hotel Vital, have been shaping
life in the valley for centuries, and indeed this health resort is among the oldest in Europe.
Dolenjske Toplice reached its peak of popularity at the end of the 17th and during the 18th
century, when its owners, the princely Auersperg family, built a two-storey bathhouse with three
pools, Princely, Karl’s and Josef’s, as well as the first hotel. By 1776 the health resort had adopted
its first bathing rules, and a year later the results of a chemical analysis of its thermal waters were
published in Vienna.
Today the thermal spa is owned by Terme Krka, the company which has over the past three decades developed the spa into a friendly destination for the promotion of well-being and an acclaimed state-of-the-art health resort specialising in locomotor system rehabilitation.
Refreshments are available at the Hotel Balnea coffee bar and the Gostilna Rog inn. On top of
The valley has characteristic karst features and phenomena, including the intermittent Šušica
stream below Dobindol, home to the olm (Proteus anguinus), a blind amphibian endemic to the
subterranean waters of the Dinaric karst.
In the centre of the village of Uršna Sela, turn left towards Novo Mesto, and at the end of the village
of Birčna Vas, turn right towards Stranska Vas. After going downhill for a few kilometers, you will
reach the main Novo Mesto–Metlika highway, where you should turn right onto the main road
(direction Metlika). Leave the main road after about one kilometre or so and turn left onto a quiet
road towards Hrušice. The last major climb on the way is through the villages of Šentjošt and Hrib
pri Orehku, where your efforts will be rewarded with a beautiful panorama. At Hrušica, head left
in the direction of Veliki Slatnik and Križe.
Physicist and philosopher Ernst Mach, the first person to calculate the speed of sound, was
buried at the Veliki Slatnik cemetery.
At Križe, head right for Potov Vrh and Petelinjek. Go down from Petelinjek to the main road and
make a right turn towards Ratež. At the Gostilna Mrak (Pod Klančkom) inn, head left for Sela pri
Ratežu, returning to Otočec via Dolenja Vas. The river Krka again comes into view at the village of
Otočec, where you cross the wooden bridge and make a right turn in the centre of the village. After
two kilometres you arrive at Otočec Castle.
The traditional Šeruga homestead (tourist farm), situated by a gentle stream, serves traditional
homemade dishes to visitors.
21
WET-FOOT TRAIL
10
Description: Rolling hills, religious monuments and the valley of
the mysterious Temenica stream
Level of difficulty: Moderate; excellent for a day trip
LINKS:
• Sacred Treasures Trail – K12
• Seven Hills of Novo Mesto – No. 4 and/or P17
2:40–3:10 h
• Pilgrimage Route
[m]
350
Mirna
Dol. Nemška vas
Gomila
Mirna Peč
Mokronog
Dolenje Jesenice
Šmarješke Toplice
300
Šentrupert
Klevevž
Vrhovo pri Mirni Peči
-9%
Prečna
+15%
250
200
Lešnica
Novo mesto
Hoteli Otočec
Follow Route 2 to get from Otočec to Šmarješke Toplice. From Terme Šmarješke Toplice, head northeast towards Šmarjeta and then north along the main road in the direction of Zbure. After crossing
the stone bridge, fork left and go up into the orchards. At the signpost for Grič pri Klevevžu, follow
the left path down to the mill, from where you can walk to the Klevevška Toplica thermal spring.
Return up to where Grič pri Klevevžu is (on the summit to the left), from where you can take a walk
through the grounds of Klevevž Castle, which lies in ruins.
The Church of St Margaret (Sv. Marjeta) in Šmarjeta houses a 17th-century mural depicting the
Crucifixion. It is the largest baroque painting with a religious theme in Slovenia.
150
100
50
asfalt/asphalt
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
55
60 65 [km]
Klevevška Toplica is the name of the thermal spring whose water swirls out at 22°C from under
the larger boulder by the Radulja stream below the ruins of Klevevž Castle. Close by is the entrance
to the cave which is said to hold a hidden treasure and an interconnecting tunnel linking it to the
adjacent castle.
Continuing to Mokronog, to the northwest, you can proceed in either of the following two directions: a) Across Čelevec (back through the orchards to the junction with a signpost (left) for
Čelevec). Follow the country road over hills and valleys, then turn left when you reach the main
road or b) Via the signposted Šmarjeta–Zbure–Mokronog highway.
Continue through the centre of the old market town of Mokronog; at the sawmill, fork right towards
Martinja Vas. Cross the river Mirna, turn left at the junction and then immediately right towards
Dolenje Jesenice. After going up and forking left, follow the asphalt road towards Šentrupert. Pass
the Church of St Rupert before continuing southwest to Mirna.
Mokronog is a restored old market town with an enchanting appeal, whose name literally translates as “wet feet”. Its pilgrimage Church of Our Lady of Sorrows (Žalostne Matere Božje), atop
the nearby Žalostna Gora, dates from the end of the 17th century and houses a black marble altar.
A little to the west of Dolenje Jesenice is Gorenje Jesenice, with its Church of St Kanzian.
First mentioned in written records in 1163, Šentrupert’s three-aisled hall Church of St. Rupert
boasts six slender pillars and a 15th-century bell tower. Also of note is the 19th-century Chapel
of the Holy Cross, with its Pascoli-designed tomb of the noble Barbo family. You can also visit the
Frelih Winery, at Šentrupert 35.
1km northwest of the town of Mirna is Mirna Castle, which is referred to as “the sleeping beauty”. The first historical reference to the castle dates back to 1165, but its origins can certainly be
traced back to Roman times.
At Gomila, just before the railway station (Brezovica), turn left towards Lanšprež, go through the
woods to the first crossroads, head right towards Dolenja Nemška Vas, where you turn left at the
school in the village. After 200m, turn left towards Mirna Peč.
After a gentle climb up past Ponikve, where the Temenica stream disappears underground, pass
the hilltop Church of St Ann and the Zijalo grotto before reaching Mirna Peč and the Gostilna
Novljan inn. Continue to the primary school, where you fork right and follow the Temenica stream
to the village of Vrhovo, where the river disappears again before resurfacing for the last time in the
Luknja gorge. Continue along the forest track, past the Luknja gorge to the village of Prečna.
Continue past the Adria Mobil factory to the crossroads at the Novo Mesto barracks, where you
head straight for the crossroads with traffic lights, turn right onto the bypass towards Metlika and
then go left towards Otočec and Šmarješke Toplice.
Gomila – take the forest road past the ruins of Lanšprež Castle, which was torn down after WWII.
Peter Pavel Glavar, onetime master of Lanšprež, became famous for his essays on bees. He was
buried at the nearby Chapel of St Martin; next to it stands a typical 10-pillared Slovenian hayrack
(kozolec) dating from the 18th century.
Above the hamlet of Vrhpeč, on the road between Ponikve and Mirna Peč, is the picturesque
St Ann’s Hill (Vrh Sv. Ane), with its hilltop church of the same name. Consequent to its strategic
location, this was also the site of a Late Iron Age hill fortification (gradišče). The Church of St Ann
dates back to the Middle Ages (To arrange for a visit, call +386 (0)7 307 87 34). Somewhere deep
beneath the hill flows the Temenica, an underground river which resurfaces at Zijalo, a short
grotto at the foot of a 35m-high rock face just south of the main road. This siphon spring hides a
mysterious, 60-metre-long and 12-metre-deep underground channel. The two caves above
the spring, the Boys’ Hole (Fantovska Luknja) and the Heathens’ Cave (Ajdovska Jama), are the subject of local folk tales. The Zijalo grotto hides the source of the Temenica, a well-known intermittent
stream which disappears underground twice before converging with the Krka.
The village of Mirna Peč (literally, “peaceful cliff”) has an unusual name, stemming from its
German name Hönigstein (honey cliff), which is most likely to have been inspired by the honeylike colour of the rock face at Zijalo. You can stop for refreshments at the local inn by the name of
Gostilna Novljan.
The Luknja gorge is a protected natural landmark, which, besides being the final source of the
Temenica, also harbours the ruins of Luknja Castle.
Novo Mesto is the principal town of the Dolenjska region (To learn more, see the description of
Route 4).
23
WINEGROWING HILLS AND
MEADOWS
11
Description: Suitable for nature and wetland lovers; over the scenic
winegrowing hills and meadows by the river Krka
L evel of difficulty: The first half, in the hills, is quite demanding;
the second half is flat
2:10 h–2:40 h
LINKS:
[m]
Dol. Radulje
350
300
Hoteli
Otočec
Zavratec
Dolenje Mokro Polje
Smednik
-12%
Škocjan
250
Raka
Bučka
Šentjernej
Zbure
• European Long-distance
Footpath – E7
• In the Footsteps of Monks P11 (Pleterje – Gospodična)
+8%
200
• Venice of Dolenjska – No. 12
• Across the Šentjernej Plain – K9 (Gorjanci Hills)
Follow Route 2 to get from Otočec to Terme Šmarješke Toplice.
150
100
50
asfalt/asphalt
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
[km]
Šmarjeta is known for its Church of St Margaret, whose valuable rendition of the Crucifixion
is the largest baroque painting in Slovenia. On the road towards Zbure, about 1km north of
Šmarjeta and to the right of the stone bridge, is the expansive Zdravci meadow, bordered on
one side by the Radulja stream. Around what used to be a water mill you may even spot herons,
deer, foxes, hares and pheasants.
Recommended detour: It will take you about half an hour to visit the Klevevž hot spring. Fork
left immediately after the stone bridge, go past the village of Radovlja and then continue for 300
metres through an orchard. Just before the signpost for Grič pri Klevevžu, head left and down
into the Radulja valley, to the water mill. Cross the bridge and turn right to reach the spring. The
remains of Klevevž Castle sit at the top of the Grič pri Klevevžu rise. Head east from here to reach
the main Šmarjeta–Zbure road.
The road east of Zbure, with the wetlands along the Radulja stream, all the way to Škocjan is a
good place to look out for storks.
At the junction opposite the church in the village of Škocjan, head left up into the winegrowing
hills (direction Bučka). Cross the double-arched bridge over the Radulja and then continue along
the main road.
The geometric centre of the Škocjan municipality, situated 50m to the left of the main road, is a
good place to find out more about the sights and landmarks in the area.
Continue north along the main road in the direction of Sevnica. As you enter the village of Dolenje
Radulje, turn left towards Gorenje Radulje and the village of Močvirje, which boasts a small but
exquisite church. The valley of the Hubajnica stream is enchantingly serene. Return to Bučka by
going up the other side of the valley, arriving back at the Bučka fire station.
Continue going up to Bučka, and at the fire station, at house number Bučka 45, turn left and head
up to the church of Stopno. Your efforts will be richly rewarded, as there is a vantage point at
the top of the hill and a beautiful pilgrimage Church of Our Lady of Rosary, which boasts a
remarkable open-air altar.
Return through Bučka, over the Jarčji Vrh hill and down to Dolenja Radulja. At the Raka–Šrit junction, head straight (not right) for Zavratec.
Recommended detour: If you head left in the direction of Sevnica, you can take a relaxing
lakeside break (1.5km) and enjoy the view of water lilies and the sound of croaking frogs. The
fisherman’s hut serves grilled trout and carp.
The climb up to Zavratec is rewarded with stunning views of the hills and vineyards. Turn right at the
junction in Zavratec to go down the winegrowing hills to Rovišče (Church of St Nicholas) and Raka.
The magnificent Church of St Lawrence dominates Raka’s main town square. A short way from
the square (along the road to Krško and to the right) is a derelict monastic building with vine-clad
walls, and 50 metres farther is Raka Castle. Return to the square and start your descent south
towards Smednik (direction Kostanjevica).
Soon after crossing the motorway overpass outside Smednik, you will find yourself under the
canopies of the Krakovo Forest trees.
Spanning seven thousand hectares, this is the largest lowland pedunculate oak and European
hornbeam forest in Slovenia. Not easily accessible and sometimes flooded, the area is a valuable
primeval ecosystem and a habitat for varied flora and fauna, especially birds.
The road forks at the end of the forest. Follow the right path leading to Zameško, where you should
turn left to Mršeča Vas. Cross the wooden bridge over the river Krka there. You are likely to see
storks and grey herons on the meadows and wetlands along the Krka.
After making two more right turns, you arrive in Šentjernej (Gostilna Majzelj). The Pleterje Carthusian Monastery (Gothic church, multivision presentation of monastic life, souvenir shop and
open-air museum) lies some 3 kilometres south of Šentjernej.
From Šentjernej, head west across the plain (direction Novo Mesto) and through Dolenje Mokro
Polje. After 2km or so you will see a signpost (right) for Otočec. Follow the shaded track towards
the golf course and Otočec Castle. (For more information, see Route 6.)
Follow Route 2 to Šmarješke Toplice.
25
VENICE OF DOLENJSKA
12
Description: An excursion to Kostanjevica, an island town on the
river Krka, and back over the Gorjanci Hills
Pleterje open-air museum
LINKS:
2:10 h–2:40 h
[m]
450
Kostanjevica na Krki Kočarija
Šmarješke Toplice
400
Bela cerkev
350
300
Šmarje
Cerov Log
+13%
250
Ratež
Orehovica
Dobrava pri Škocjanu
Dol. Mokro polje
Zameško
Hoteli Otočec
200
100
asfalt/asphalt
0
5
Head east from Šmarješke Toplice, through Brezovica and Sela to Bela Cerkev, following the Krka to
Zameško, thence southeast downriver past the Krakovo Forest towards Kostanjevica na Krki. The
route runs southwest from Kostanjevica, to the steepest climb, Kočarija, and the highest point on
the route (450 metres a.s.l.). This is followed by a climb down to Šmarje via Veliki Ban.
You can make a slight detour to the Pleterje Carthusian Monastery by heading left at Pleterski Hrib (beyond Mali Ban and some 200 metres before the Gorišek tourist farm) towards the
vineyards.
150
50
• European Long-Distance
Footpath – E7
• In the Footsteps of Monks
– P11 (Pleterje – Gospodična)
Veliki ban
-10%
• Across Šentjernej Plain – K9
(Gorjanci Hills)
• Winegrowing Hills and Meadows – No. 11
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45 [km]
The village of Bela Cerkev (literally, “white church”) is indeed distinguished by its white church,
one of the oldest parish churches in the Dolenjska region. It was made of stone and brick – hence
the name – rather than timber, which was typically used in construction back then. There is a
nice view from the cemetery, and a short stop at the local winery will prove most refreshing
and enlivening.
The road from Zameško to Kostanjevica na Krki skirts the southern flank of the Krakovo Forest,
affording some nice views. Its well-preserved primeval core contains numerous pedunculate
oak trees, some as many as 300 years old and up to 40 metres high. In addition to being home
to interesting flora, this forest is also a nesting area of European significance for some rare species of birds, as well as a spawning ground for some increasingly threatened amphibians. At the
beginning of the 19th century the forest was surveyed by engineer Josef Ressel (1793–1857),
a pioneer in the development of the screw propeller, which he is believed to have put to
the test on the Krka.
In the village of Malence, at the edge of the Krakovo Forest, is the Cvelbar oak, which has the third
biggest girth in the country. From the Ressel Nature Trail, which runs past the oak, you can see
storks and grey herons along the banks of the river Krka.
Though small, Kostanjevica na Krki, popularly referred to as “the Venice of Dolenjska”, is the
oldest town in the region, with the first historical reference dating as far back as 1252. The charming old
town, declared a cultural monument and protected
as a heritage site, is situated on a man-made island
on a bend in the river Krka.
Apart from being prone to frequent flooding, Kostanjevica na Krki has a number of features reminiscent of
Venice, including a wide range of monuments, art
collections and exhibitions for visitors to admire.
Kostanjevica monastery
Also close by are a monastery, castle, forma viva sculpture exhibition and a karst cave.
On your way down to Šmarje you can soak up the beautiful view of the Pleterje Carthusian
Monastery. Established by Herman II, Count of Celeia, in 1403 – he also issued the monastery’s
charter in 1407 – Pleterje was the fourth and the last Carthusian monastery to be established on
Slovenian soil. Today the Pleterje Monastery houses the only surviving Carthusian order in
the country. The monastery itself is closed to visitors; however, one can watch a multivision presentation of monastic life, and the monastery shop sells house products like wines and brandies,
together with various honeys and waxes. Close by is an open-air heritage museum, which also
sells souvenirs.
The most diverse part of the route begins at Šmarje. Proceed southwest to Cerov Log, then northwest via Orehovice to Dolenje Mokro Polje, where you should first head left towards Novo Mesto
and then right at Ratež towards the village of Otočec.
The first historical reference to Dolenje Mokro Polje dates from the 13th century, when it was
known as Unter Nassfeld (lower wetland). Knights Meinhard and Rudolph Nazzenvelt had a fortified manor house there. Due to frequent flooding, the village was later forced to move to higher
ground; however, a few remains of old wells are still to be seen at the original location.
Terme Šmarješke Toplice is best known and most valued for its cardiovascular treatments, range
of services for athletes, and state-of-the-art Vitarium Spa&Clinique wellness centre. Among the
various pools available is also a unique wooden pool sitting on top of a thermal spring. In the
park there is the only pond in the country to boast Indian lotus plants.
You can also visit Otočec Castle. Restored and refurbished, this island castle today houses a five-star
hotel and a fine restaurant. Nearby is Otočec Sports Centre, with sports facilities, saunas and a bistro.
27
FROM WATER MILLS TO CASTLES
13
Description: A refreshing trip through the pristine valley of the
Radulja stream to old water mills and over
winegrowing hills to three castles
Level of difficulty: Demanding
Otočec Castle
LINKS:
• Through Vineyards and Forests – K11 (Roje–Trebelno–Mokronog)
2:20 h–2:40 h
[m]
550
Roje pri Trebelnem
Dolina Radulje
500
Koglo (Sv. Lenart)
450
At Terme Šmarješke Toplice, opposite the hotel car park, head northeast to the village of Brezovica.
Continue through the village and head northwest towards Koglo.
Jagodnik
Hmeljnik
Trška gora
+16%
Jelše pri Otočcu
Brezovica
400
350
300
250
Hoteli Otočec
200
-10%
150
100
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
50
0
2.5
5
7.5
10
12.5
15
17.5
20
22.5
25
27.5
[km]
Turn left towards Koglo at the old farmhouse in the valley and head up to the valley of the
Zavetrščica stream. Turn left at the junction with the main road and, after about 2 kilometres, at a
small wayside chapel, make a right turn uphill. There is a wonderful view from the Gorenc farm,
all the way to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. Take a short walk to the summit of Koglo and to the
Church of St Leonard (Sv. Lenart), then go back to the small wayside chapel and continue right
towards Žaloviče. Make a right turn again after merely 30 metres, onto the gravel road (direction
Trebelno). On your way down the forest road leading to the Radulja valley, you can take a short
break at the refreshing spring and refill your water bottles.
A stone mill used to stand at the Robek farmhouse in the valley by the stream, but the building
was destroyed by fire a while ago.
You can still find crayfish in the crystalline Radulja stream and indulge in carefree bathing – and
you don’t need a swimsuit. Remember to fill your water bottles with fresh spring water.
Continue through Mirna Dolina to the village of Mirna Vas, situated at the junction of two roads
and the confluence of the Radulja and Lipovec streams. Turn right at the junction. When you reach
the asphalt road, make a left turn (going right leads to Mokronog). At the sporting grounds in the
village of Roje pri Trebelnem, turn off the asphalt road and take the forest trail across the stream.
The trail runs up over the wooded hill to Jagodnik. The steepest part of this route, up through the
forest, takes about 3 kilometres.
Once you have reached the summit above Jagodnik, the difficult part is behind you. Ahead lies a
pleasant ride across the summits of winegrowing hills. Hmeljnik Castle, your next stop on the
way, emerges from behind the spruce trees.
In the village of Mirna Vas, there is the disused Hmeljnik sawmill and the famous Pene’s mill,
where during World War II the leading resistance figures and partisan couriers met in secret.
To the left, by the Lipovec stream, stands what used to be a dormouse-hunters’ cabin, which was
used as a lodge by Marshal Tito, lifetime president of the former Yugoslavia.
In the vicinity of Roje pri Trebelnem, near the village of Štatenberk, you can visit the rural and
farm museum. (Tel. +386 (0)41 554 650)
One kilometre southeast of the village of Jagodnik, turn right onto the gravel path (signposted:
Hmeljnik) running through the forest. Go down to the signpost for the Cviček Trail (Cvičkova Gaz),
then make a sharp right to the ruins of Hmeljnik Castle. Take the same way back from the castle to the
junction, then continue south through the forest to the asphalt road. Head left through the village of
Dolenje Kamence, where a wonderful view opens up at the first cluster of vineyard cottages.
After some 300m, at the southern edge of the village, make a sharp left turn at the crossroads to
the ridge of Trška Gora (not signposted).
The first historical reference to Hmeljnik Castle dates back to 1217, and among its noted owners
were the Hopfenbach and Auersperg families. In the 15th and 16th centuries the building got a
double fortified wall and round towers for added protection against marauding Turkish armies.
Destroyed by fire in 1942, it is currently up for restoration as a cultural monument.
Continue along the ridge, past vineyard cottages, up towards the summit of Trška Gora and its
church. Turn left at the small wayside shrine.
Trška Gora is the home of the Cviček wine. On the summit there is the Church of the Birth of
the Blessed Virgin Mary, next to which stand five lime trees, including the giant one which is
over 100 years old and has a girth of 830cm, the biggest in the whole region. 300 metres below
the summit is Krka’s thatched Krkin Hram cottage, which is open for groups by appointment.
(Tel.: +386 (0)7 39 42 100)
To return to Otočec, go down from the church to the wine barrel, where you turn right onto the
asphalt road running through the woods. Turn right again and go down the steep road, among
the vineyard cottages, to Krkin Hram. Here you must turn left and stay on the road. After a short
climb up, the road takes you left past the vineyard cottage of the Colnar family, then down a steep
slope through Črešnjice, where you can see Old Castle (Stari Grad) in the background. Head right
to Jelše pri Otočcu. The descent from Trška Gora ends in the village of Otočec. Continue downriver
towards Otočec Castle and Šmarješke Toplice.
Old Castle (Stari Grad), a magnificent 13th-century building, can be admired from afar on this
route. The former glory of this particular sleeping beauty, however, is still to be restored.
Otočec Castle, with its remarkable architecture and island setting, is one of the most renowned
landmarks in the country. It is surrounded by the river Krka, which features numerous tufa cascades and more than 30 islets.
Follow Route 2 to get from Otočec back to Šmarješke Toplice.
29
SPRING OF YOUTH
14
Description: A colourful route over the Gorjanci Hills for cyclists
with stamina
Level of difficulty: Demanding
Length: 51.4km; elevation gain: 1,080m
LINKS:
• Across Šentjernej Plain – K9
• White Carniola (Bela Krajina) – K8
3 h–3:30 h
[m]
1000
Krvavi Kamen
Škofovka
Gospodična
Ratež
Vahta
800
Žihovo selo
Dolž
Velike Brusnice
Veliki Orehek
Gabrje
Veliki Slatnik
600
Mali Slatnik
400
-15%
Hoteli
Otočec
200
+10%
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
Head southeast from Otočec Castle, past the campsite and golf course through the villages of
Ratež, Velike Brusnice and Gabrje. Keep to the main road for about 4km, passing the village of
Jugorje, then take the unpaved route. This panoramic route runs up to the Krvavi Kamen plateau.
From here, continue west down the asphalt road to the Gospodična Mountain Lodge (Planinski
Dom Gospodična, 828 m.a.s.l.).
Otočec Castle’s scenic location on an island in the Krka, a river rich in sand spits and islets, is truly
breathtaking.
The village of Velike Brusnice is known for its cranberries and cherries.
asfalt/asphalt
makadam/gravel
0
• Gorjanci Hills On Foot
(Gospodična to Trdinov Vrh) – No. 15
45
[km]
Lying at the foot of the Gorjanci Hills, Gabrje is quite a large village, and its inhabitants are regarded as distinctive yet staunchly patriotic people. The village has witty street names, such
as Kandija, for example, which carries the same name as a suburb of Novo Mesto. They have also
borrowed names like Mala Moskva (Little Moscow) and Vedman, which supposedly means Vietnam. Then there is also Portoroška Ulica (Portorož Street): When Portorož was developing into a
seaside resort, many Gabrje locals worked there as construction workers. They, nicknamed “the
Portorož men”, were away from home for weeks, so the street where they lived was given that
same name as well.
Along the route between Brusnice and Gabrje, some 200m from the road, is where honeysuckle
rhododendron (Rhododendron luteum), or the fragrant Azalea pontica, grows. Blooming in May,
it has fragrant, bright yellow blossoms, and it can grow up to four metres high. The site of this
botanical rarity is protected.
The Gorjanci Hills once marked the borderline between Slovenian Podgorje and Croatian Žumberak.
During the 1630s, Žumberak, a Croatian town dominated by these hills, was settled by Vlach refugees fleeing from Turkish attacks on Serbian soil. In return, the Vlachs helped protect Carniola from
marauding Turkish armies. The eminent 17th-century Carniolan polyhistor J.W. Valvasor humorously described the Vlachs as “excellent masters of the art of how to find something before it has
been lost, and willingly take before a person is willing to give”. The Vlachs tended their herds of
sheep and goats in these hills, hence the name Gorjanci: ‘Gor’ = up and ‘janci’ = lambs.
The people of this area were immortalised in the literary work of the acclaimed Slovenian writer
Janez Trdina. He describes them as honest folk who find it difficult to make ends meet, but also lazy
and cheating. At times they are smart and resourceful, other times dim-witted, obstinate and superstitious, hard-working farmers and fathers who are, on the other hand, drunkards and womanizers.
Jugorje – the story as to how this village got its name goes like this: There was a poor elderly
woman who only had an old shack and a few fruit trees. The few pennies she made from the fruit
was spent on some salt and brandy. When the fruit was ripening, the woman would guard her
trees watchfully. Once, when the fruit was just about ripe, she saw an uninvited guest in her prized
honey pear tree, diligently stuffing the pears into his shirt and pockets. Since the woman was old
and ailing, unable to climb trees and chase away the intruder, all she could do was stand under the
tree and weep: “Ju, gor je! Ju, gor je! Oh, he is up there! Oh, he is up there!”
The Gospodična Mountain Lodge is a popular excursion point, from where you can see all the
way to the Kamnik Alps and the Karavanke mountains, which mark Slovenia’s northern border
with Austria. Just below the lodge (down the steps) is the miraculous Gospodična spring. According to a tale by Janez Trdina, the lady of the manor was miraculously rejuvenated after bathing
in the spring. Here you can refill your water bottles with refreshing spring water flowing from the
heart of the Gorjanci Hills.
Rested, relaxed and refreshed, continue southwest along the asphalt road, down to the Vahta Pass
on the main highway linking Dolenjska with Metlika and Bela Krajina. Here you should turn right
towards Novo Mesto and go down the winding road with sharp bends for just over two kilometres. At the first junction, head right to the village of Dolž (4km), where you fork left to Zajčji Vrh pri
Stopičah and Mali & Veliki Orehek. In Veliki Orehek, head right towards Veliki Slatnik. Go straight
through the village and on to Mali Slatnik, where you cross (staggered crossroads) the main Novo
mesto–Šentjernej road and continue to Smolenja Vas. The next village is Žihovo Selo by the Krka,
where you turn right and keep to the river. In Dolenja Vas, go left, cross the wooden bridge over
the Krka and continue to Otočec. Turn right in the centre of the village, go past the cemetery and
follow the river Krka all the way to Otočec Castle.
Ernst Mach, best remembered for being the first person to calculate the speed of sound, was
buried at the Veliki Slatnik cemetery. Indeed, today the ratio of the speed of a projectile to the
speed of sound is referred to as the Mach number.
31
15
GORJANCI HILLS ON FOOT
Description: Into the hills – climb the summit of Trdinov Vrh,
refresh and regenerate yourself at the spring of youth
Level of difficulty: Hiking trip, moderate
Elevations: Gabrje (400 m.a.s.l.) – Gospodična (822 m.a.s.l.),
Gospodična (822 m.a.s.l.) – Trdinov Vrh (1.178 m.a.s.l.)
0:50–1 h+
0:50–1 h
LINKS:
• European Long-Distance Footpath – E7
• In the Footsteps of Monks – P11 (Gospodična Mountain Spring – Pleterje)
• Along the Uskok Trails - P10 (Gorjanci - Metlika)
Drive by car to Gabrje, the starting point for this tour (Otočec–Ratež–Velike Brusnice–Gabrje).
Fork right (main road) at the first junction just outside the village of Gabrje. You will arrive at
a crossroads in the centre of the village (the signpost for Hrušica points to the right). Continue
along the main road (Šumeči Potok). You will see signposts for tourist farms (kmečki turizem),
e.g. Pri Ivanežu. Some of the signposts also have red and white circular markers used for marking
hiking and mountaineering trails. At the next junction you will see a hiking signpost (stay on the
main road), and the first markers will come into view a few metres down the road. Passing the
last houses in the village, the asphalt road makes a sharp turn to the left and climbs up (towards
Jugorje). Straight ahead runs a gravel road, with a fairly large parking area where you can leave
your vehicle.
The climb to the Gospodična mountain spring begins with the only orientational flaw on the entire
trip. There will be two unpaved roads in front of you, one leading straight ahead, the other uphill
and to the right, but there are no signposts. Between the two roads is a narrow path leading into
the forest, so simply follow the red and white circular markers into the forest.
Crisscrossed by a network of paths and trails, the Gorjanci Hills are perfect for walking. The markers on this particular route are so well placed that you cannot get lost. After a good half an hour
of walking along an interesting, diverse path, you will leave the beech forest and reach the edge
of a pasture, where you begin your climb. Enjoy your first views of the picturesque Krka valley
through the trees. Carry on through the forest for another half an hour before reaching the next
pasture, which is rich in flowers like the beautiful Carniolan lily, colourful hemp nettle, tiny common eyebright, St John’s wort, and autumn crocus.
The Gorjanci Hills once marked the borderline between Slovenian Podgorje and Croatian Žumberak.
During the 1630s, Žumberak, a Croatian town dominated by these hills, was settled by Vlach refugees fleeing from Turkish attacks on Serbian soil. In return, the Vlachs helped protect Carniola from
marauding Turkish armies. The eminent 17th-century Carniolan polyhistor J.W. Valvasor humorously described the Vlachs as “excellent masters of the art of how to find something before it has
been lost, and willingly take before a person is willing to give”. The Vlachs tended their herds of
sheep and goats in these hills, hence the name Gorjanci: ‘Gor’ = up and ‘janci’ = lambs.
To learn more about the Gorjanci Hills, see Route 14.
From the last pasture it is merely a further 15-minute walk through the forest, unless, of course,
you decide to pick some wild berries. You will see the roof of the Gospodična Mountain Lodge in
front of you. The steps leading past the Gospodična spring to the mountain lodge are a handy
shortcut.
Gospodična, the spring of youth: According to a tale by Janez Trdina, the lady of the manor was
miraculously rejuvenated after bathing in the spring. You can refill your water bottles with this
refreshing spring water flowing from the heart of the Gorjanci Hills.
It will take twice as much time to climb Trdinov Vrh, the highest point on the Gorjanci ridge, as it
did to reach the Gospodična Mountain Lodge. The starting and finishing stretches of the path are
quite steep; in between, however, the path affords pleasant walking.
From the Gospodična Mountain Lodge, continue south along the gravel road. When it turns onto
the main road, head right and continue for a minute or so. You will then see markers pointing to
the left, through the forest, where the path begins to climb. Cross the gravel road again after 15
minutes and again head for the forest.
After crossing the gravel road for the last time, walk for about 100m and then turn right, up the
steep slope, the last climb on the way. After about 80 steps you will see a TV transmitter and a
small church. Head for the vantage point on the summit.
At 1,178 metres above sea level, Trdinov Vrh is the highest point of the Gorjanci Hills and is known
as the Triglav of the Dolenjska region. Its summit is quite densely wooded, and on a clear day
you can see as far as the Julian and the Kamnik–Savinja alps. The border between Slovenia and
Croatia runs along the ridge of the Gorjanci Hills, straight across the middle of Trdinov Vrh. Apart
from several TV transmitters, there are also the remains of two small churches: St. Gertrude
(Sv. Gera) and, on the Croatian side, the Chapel of St. Elias (Sv. Ilija). There is a vantage point
on top and a registration box with a stamp for those who keep a record of their climbs.Hotels for
hikers and cyclists in the area
33
Hotels for Hikers and Cyclists in the Vicinity
Otočec Hotels (Hotel Šport****, bungalows**):
Terme Šmarješke Toplice (Hotel Šmarjeta****):
• Category:
• Info point for hikers
• Otočec Sports Centre: tennis, table tennis, badminton, volleyball, basketball, handball,
fitness centre, saunas and massage pool
• First skike centre in Slovenia
• Custom diet for athletes (also packed lunches)
• Excellent starting point for trips and excursions around the Dolenjska region
• Tango restaurant: lunches and snacks, à la carte restaurant, desserts, ice creams,
children’s playground, shaded terrace for hot summer days, live music every weekend
•
•
•
•
•
Category:
Info point for hikers
State-of-the-art thermal health resort close by
Thermal pools, saunas, baths, massages, relaxation programmes
First Nordic walking centre in Slovenia, with more than 60km of well-maintained
trails in the area
• Sports centre specialising in injury prevention and rehabilitation: testing, fitness
analysis, expert exercise and training advice, recovery after injury.
Well-marked bicycle, skike and walking trails in the area around Otočec and Šmarješke Toplice; guided tours, rental and purchase of cycling, skiking and hiking equipment; maps, courses, emergency call, equipment storage...
G
G
Hoteli Otočec
Grajska cesta 2, 8222 Otočec
tel.: 00386 31 643 100, e-mail: [email protected]
Šmarješke Toplice 100, 8220 Šmarješke Toplice
tel.: 00386 7 38 43 400, e-mail: [email protected]
Terme Krka
Ljubljanska cesta 26, 8501 Novo mesto
tel.: 00386 7 37 31 915, e-mail: [email protected]
www.terme-krka.si

Bicycle, Skike and Walking Paths

Transcription

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