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Transcription

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3: The Gardom’s Area
Gardom’s Edge
Birchen Edge
Chatsworth Edge
Dobb Edge
Stumphole Cavern
Gun Buttress
The Dobb’s knogg. Simon Wilson bouldering at Dobb Edge (page xx). Photo: Adam Long
3 A B Int gard A3.indd 240-241
04/02/2010 16:47:36
Gardom’s Area – Map
Gardom’s Edge
to Cu
rbar
N
0
1km
Gardom’s
North Bouldering
A621
fiel
d
hef
to S
to Baslow
Birchen
Edge
Ga
Gardom’s
Edge
Nelson’s Monument
Nelso
Moorsidee
Rocks
Gardom’s
E i BByne
Eric
South Bouldering
Campsite
Stumphole
Cavern
Robin Hood
Inn
B6050
to Cheste
A619
rfield
Chats
Chatsworth Edge
Dobb Edge
ge
Gun RRock
19
by John Camateras
OS Ref SK 274738 to 273726 Alt. 260m
Gardom’s is the quiet, understated crag of the Peak.
It’s not brash and noisy like some crags, it just gets
on with it, and with varied climbing, pockets of seclusion and good views who can blame it? Gardom’s
can offer peace and quiet, which can be a blessing on
those busy weekends, when all the ‘popular’ crags are
teeming. Yet in case you’re feeling lonely there’s always a couple of parties around Apple Buttress. There
are great classics, modern testpieces, hidden gems for
the explorer and last but not least plenty of excellent
bouldering.
above Black Wall. In winter, or after heavy rain, this
path can be boggy and it’s better to follow the main
road to the short steep path up the side of Battlement Buttress.
Conditions and Aspect
The wooded sections of the crag can provide welcome shade but can also hold dampness. Generally,
unless you are escaping the heat, it’s best to visit in
the afternoon when the sun moves round. The less
popular routes should be treated with care if they
are lichenous or vegetated as this can alter the grade
considerably, especially if damp. Having said all that,
judicious route choices can yield sheltered all-year
climbing with many classics across the grades.
The climbing can be affected by the trees and vegetation. Some of the north-facing climbs need a few
dry days to come into condition, whereas the cleaner
south-facing climbs can dry quickly and provide
sheltered winter sun-traps in the afternoon.
The Climbing
The Quarries
Pillar Wall
Gardom’s South
Boulders
Gardom’s Edge
walls
to A619 / Robin Hood’s parking
242
Froggatt to Black Rocks
0
250m
N
Moorside Rocks
ss
ss
tre
ttre
But
u
B
e
l
ll
App
Wa
’s
ker
rta
e
d
Un
ad
Ore
A621
’s
yer nda
Mo Nowa
all
k W th
lB ac
or
’s N rs
m
o
d de
Gar Boul
A big rambling crag, over a mile long with about 230
routes and 60 boulder problems scattered along its
length. The climbing is excellent across the grades.
The bouldering is concentrated at either end but
there is quality all the way, with the best problems
mostly at higher grades but there is enough here for
a visit by anyone.
Parking and Approach
For the northern buttresses, park just off the A621.
Walk back down the road and go through the gate
and take the right-hand path. Continue to a second
gate and emerge from the trees at the top of the crag
For the southern buttresses and Moorside Rocks,
park in the car park next to the Robin Hood Inn just
off the A619 and walk back down the road. Cross
the stile on the right and follow the path up the hill
until Moorside Rocks appear on the right. Continue
along the path through a gate and Gardom’s south
will appear shrouded by trees. Moorside Rocks is in
the next field to the Eric Byne campsite.
Access: The edge is owned by the Chatsworth
Estate. At present there are no access problems.
Battlement Buttress
Below the boulders directly above the A621. Sadly it has become overgrown. For the avid ticker,
Scotswood Road, E4 6a (1983), takes the righthand end of the roof of the first wall. Roadside
Attraction, E2 5c (1983), follows the arête and
provides an interesting boulder problem start. The
crack in the wall to the right provides the start to
two routes; Boiling Oil, E2 5c (1983), which takes
the wall to an old tree and Battlement Wall, HVS
5a (1959), starts up the crack, moves right to a ledge
and then traverses diagonally leftwards until it is
possible to crawl off. The green corner is Rampart
Corner, S (1959), and the roof of the right-hand
wall can be crossed via Sooty and Sweep, E5 6b
(1985).
Continuing southwards from the Battlement Buttress the edge deteriorates. Routes have been recorded such as Portcullis, Turret Chimney, Drawbridge
Slab, Dungeon Gully, The Keep and The Watch
Tower but are either poor, very short or have been
reclaimed by nature.
243
04/02/2010 16:47:37
21 22
23
31
32
31
32
33 34
The compact circuit above the busy A621 is a great
and easily accessible circuit. Powerful roofs are the
order of the day. The bouldering mainly faces north,
although it is sheltered enough to be tolerable in
winter too, and, as it is very clean, it dries quite
quickly for a north-facer. A great place for shelter on
a windy day. A nice place, although it can be hard
to ignore the road just below. Approach: Just follow
the normal approach to the crag, crossing the stile
on the right.
The first problems are on a low roof just before the
41
main area, down and right from the path.
1
Leaf Climb V4 (6a)
41
Traverse the lip right to left, with feet off the lowest
wall, to finish up a flake. Continuing a bit further
left to finish past a sloper is harder: V6 (6b).
13
36
46
47 48
40
North Boulders – Gardom’s Edge
39 40
On the left of the main central area is a low roof:
42 43
44 45
42 43
48 49the 50
roof at right angles to
44 A45bum46scraper,
47 crossing
51
49 50
4 First Roof Right V9 (6c)
59 60
57 58
53 5 54 First55Roof56Middle
V5 (6b)
52
62
66 Left
65 Roof
67 V468(6b)69 70
63 664 First
3 A Tasty Graunch V7 (6b)
61
62
65 66manoeuvres.
64 pressing
67 68 69 70
63 more
14
18
21
22
25
26 27
Drop down a couple of levels to a big roof that
73 looms
74 over
75 the76busy77road78below.
79 80
72
71
72
81
82
81
82
91
92 93 94 95 96
8 Neil’s Roof V9 97(7a) 98 99 100
101
92
737 74Roadside
75 76Roof 77V6 (6b)
78 79 80
A hard variation gains the holds on the lip of the
98 99 from
93 roof94of the
100 the starting
95 last96problem
97 directly
shelf on the next problems.
11
9 10
rop
big
D
drop
roof variations. Start right in the back of the roof.
Use a layaway in the roof above to reach the lip, then
skedaddle left to finish up the flake and arête.
D
D
10 Mark’s Roof V8 (6b)
As above, but heave-ho over the centre of the roof
e page xxx.
a bseecphoto
d on
on bulging slopers:
a b c d
e
11 Mark’s Roof Direct V9 (6c)
The hard version tackles the obvious non-holds
c dnear
g hright side of the upper roof. b Dylan’s
e fthe
b c dVariant
e f g hdoes this with the aid of the right arête
gh
a b c d- V7
e f(6c).
17
12
13
14
15 16
19
244
20
22
21
b
7
9
12 Little Arête V2 (5c)
The little nosey arête, from a sitting start.
13 Seamstress V1 (5b)
The short wall.
From the back of the roof, travel out along the
left-hand lip on small holds to gain, and finish up, 14 Prowstress V3 (6a)
83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90
a
the flake on the front. Known, as Mark’s Roof Left- The prow is a bit of a frightener.
Hand
in
the
Peak
Bouldering
guide.
a
Finish83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90
27
ing earlier, using the crack as a layaway sloper, is 22 1525 Ledge Crack V0– (5a)
26
From the ledge, jam the delightful crack.
Percydiddit, V7 (6c).
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
9 Mark’s Roof Left-Hand V6 (6b)
101 102 103The104
108 of109
first,105
easiest106and107
longest
three110ever-hardening
7
11
A left-hand variation gains the nose of the lip, and
71
91
10
a
the central line to exit up the right side of the roof.
61
2
big d
37 38 39
37 38
52
5
6
A621
36
51
4
1
30
The pointed, jutting nose has good moves above a
nasty block.
2 Joint Care V7 (6b)
17
12
35
30
29
Mantelicious. From a sit start, move out on small
53 holds
54 to55the lip
56 and57get grinding.
58 59 60
A bit shite. Traverse the low roof right to left, with
enough rules to make it into the grade.
3
28
26
25
23 24
33 34 35
21
Gardom’s North Boulders
24
abc d e fgh
a b c dFore added
f g h joy, you can start up Mark’s Roof, yard
along the lip, reverse Roadside Roof, then shimmy
along again to the start of Mark’s Roof. Repeat. V8.
16 Ledge Wall V1 (5b)
The tricky wall right of the crack, with a confidence-testing smear move. a A right-hand version, mantelling onto a bulge on the arête, is
easier, V0 (5a).
17 West Wall V2 (5c)
A tricksy28move up the mini little wall, avoiding the
29
arête.
18 Alcove Nose V4 (6b)
The hanging nose at the back of the alcove using a
thin flake. V8 (6c) from a sit start in the crack.
19 Alcove Arête V1 (5b)
The short arête on the right of the cleft.
20 Ben’s Bulge V8 (6b)
The centre of the bulging wall to the right, on undercuts, slopers and leg jams.
21 The Grasper V5 (6b)
The very sloping, bulging arête to the right feels
quite high.
245
04/02/2010 16:47:40
55
Gardom’s Edge – Gardom’s Buttress
57 58 59 60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67 68 69 70
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68 69 70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77 78 79 80
71
72
73
74
75
76
77 78
81
82 83
84
85
86
87 88 89 90
81
82 83 84
85
86
91
92 93 94 95 96
97
98 99 100
91
92 93
97
98 99 100
101
94
95
96
79 80
87 88 89
90
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
D
D
D
a b c d e
a b c d
c d e fgh
bc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
e
81
82 83 84
91
92 93 94 95 96
97
98 99 100
91
92 93
97
98 99 100
101
94
85
95
86
96
87 88 89
90
22
27
25
26
North Boulders – Gardom’s Edge
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
a
22
D
25
D
28
27
29
D 26
e
Thirty metres right is aan undercut
b c dblock.
26 Soft Groove V5 (6b)
A tough classic taking the obstinate arête; powerful,
technical
c dand
gh
e fdynamic.
27 Soft Arête V0 (5a)
a b c d
22 Soft on the G V8 (6c)
e
Climb the awkward groove on the right from a sitstart, or from standing, still a tough V3.
A reachy problem. a The flake just left is the same
grade.
bc d e fgh
23
c dPower
h28 (7a)
a b Full
e f g V11
29 superseded by the next
Aa hard
h
b c problem,
d e f g although
route.
g hstart, with hands on the lip, gain
a b cFrom
d ea flow
and follow Soft…
The Quarry: About 100m right, a rounded, bulging
block sits above an old quarry.
24 8 Ball V12 (7a)
28 Kidneystone V7 (6c)
25 Rock Hard Bishop V5 (6b)
29 Heartland V9 (7a)
Ben Moon’s extended low start to Soft… is a powerful and sustained problem. Start on the right of the
overhang, and slap along the lip to move up and
join the original problem which, by this stage, will
be feeling particularly hard.
A somewhat ecumenical matter. Spring up the wall
using the holds on the two adjacent problems.
From the jug under the roof head up and left past
slopers and edges in the breaks. Releasing the initial
heel-toe cam without swinging off is the crux. A fine
problem. Graded for not using the footblock. V4
with it.
From the same big hold, follow the right-hand line,
with the aid of a finger jam.
Andy Banks enjoying a lantern session on Mark’s Roof, V8 (page xxx). Photo: John Coefield.
246
247
04/02/2010 16:47:43
0
0
00
121 122 123 124 125
Gardom’s Edge – Black Wall
12
8
122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
5 Black Wall Route 2 HVS 5a
pre-1950
140 over
and make
a long139reach
131 10m132 Take
137 138
133 the134thin135flake 136
c
131
13
11
10
flake. Finish slightly leftwards with difficulty using
7
after the boulders. At the end of the trees drop down
to the right. The wall can stay damp but don’t let the
black lichen fool you into thinking it’s out of condition when in fact it might be okay.
Black Wall Nothing VS 4c
14
block, and make a long stretch to gain
161 a sharp-edged
162 163 164
165 166 167 168 169 170
11
12
13
the corner above. Climb this and move out right-
finish174up a175thin crack.177Reachy.
172to 173
171 wards
178 179 180
176
8
9 10
Black Wall Area: This is 100m beyond the gate,
1
2008
10m The arête. A poor start leads to a ledge.
Stretches between good hidden holds culminate in a
delicate finish on the left.
0
2 Black Wall Route 1 S 4a
leftwards and climb the wall right of the arête to a
ledge on the right. Finish delicately back left.
3 Colin’s Route S 4a
1983
10m To the right is a chimney. Start up this and
mantel left. Climb the wall veering leftwards.
4 Allen’s Route VS 4b
1951
10m Climb the rounded flake and thin crack to a
ledge. A very awkward 5a exit can be bypassed further right at a flake.
pre-1950
10m Start at a large protruding fin of rock. Mantel
Gardom’s North
Bouldering
will test your ability at the grade in all styles. A brilliant route making the most of steep and very exposed terrain. From the ledge climb the thin crack
in the left wall with difficulty. Traverse left to an exciting position above the main roof, then battle up
the steep and rounded wall to finish.
12 Good Karma E4 6b
1985
9m From the thin crack on Sleeping Sickness make
thin moves up the wall above.
13 Brown Crack HVD 4a ««
1890
18m Gardom’s first route, from none other than
Puttrell himself. The corner/chimney is a strong
natural line giving a classic struggle. c Maintaining
the fun at the same grade, Tower Variation, (pre1951), steps out left from the ledge three quarters of
the way up and climbs the short exposed crack.
9 Mickey Finn E6 6b «««
1990
192stylish
19115m A
195 196 197
200
193 194
199 grade,
and protectable
route198at the
linking
start of the last climb to the
191
192the193desperate
194 195 196 197 198 199 200
Sickness, via some steep
difficult finish
of Sleeping
14 The Rattle HVS 5a
and brutish moves. A potential E6 flash if you have
lots of route fitness. Very reachy.
10 Narcolepsy HVS 5b «
1976
8m A short route which feels a lot higher once
you’re on it. Using the thin flake, make bold moves
above an ankle-hungry fin of rock. Once on the
ledge, start regretting you didn’t bring any gear and
Waggy
Nowanda
1975
10m The first of the Big Four Gardom’s E3s, which
15m A directionless desperate. Climb easily to the
overhangs. Very hard, protectable moves gain the
181flake 182
187 188leftwards
183the184next185roof.186Undercut
under
189 190to
gain a big slot just above the roof. Swing on to the
181
186 187 188 189 190
183up184
185finish.
arête 182
and go
this to
Och Aye
Wall
Black Wall
Overhang Buttress
248
1960
1718 172Raging
E3 6a 177
« 178 179 180 1984
174 175 176
173 Insomnia
1
5 6
11 Sleeping Sickness E3 5c ««
132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140
152 153hold.
151 a hidden
155 possible
154 a It’s
to climb
158 directly
159 160to the
156 157
jammed flake; Green Wall, E4 6a (1985).
151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160
7 Tsetse Fly E1 5c
c.1978
161 14m162Gain
165 ledge
164initial
168 directly
163 the
169 170from
166 of167
Promise
8
a
4
6 Promise HVS 5a
the right, make a low traverse right to a ledge. Step
7
2 3
the stubborn bulge. Move rightwards to a flake finish.
144 back
146 to147
148 149 150
145 again
141 up142and143
traverse
a conspicuous
jammed
15
Black Wall – Gardom’s Edge
cautiously traverse off right. b For Black Wall Traverse, HVS 5b, (post-1985), start up Narcolepsy and
finish up the wall just left of Black Wall Route 2.
150 to
141 12m
route
test your
147 148 Two
144to 145
142 A143
149 metres
146 ropework.
9
6
126 127 128 129 130
121
00
0
112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120
111
trending right to the final flake.
15 Diamond Back E3 5c
Pogle’s Wood
1983
10m Climb the right arête on its right-hand side.
The final, reachy moves form the crux.
16 North End Girdle HVS 5a
pre-1970
20m From Black Wall Route 1 move rightwards tak-
ing the crux of The Rattle. It is close to the ground
in a couple of places.
Elliott’s Buttress
Moyer’s Buttress
pre-1957
18m Wander up the middle of the wall to the right,
Dead Tree Wall
Oread
Bin Laden’s Cave
249
04/02/2010 16:47:48
20
2
1
30
5
4
3
Gardom’s Edge – Overhang Buttress
30
16
12
11
40
13
14
15
40
121 122 123 124 125
17
17
18 19 20
17 18 19 20
21 19 22
18
23 2422 25
59 60
31
32
69 70
41
60
8 79 80
51 a52
99 100
98 80
Overhang Buttress: This powerful buttress to the
right has got something for everyone, but demands
a tough, positive approach. The left wall can often
be out of condition, but does dry out well.
98 99 100
17 Thunder HVS 5a
90
9 80
08 109 110
908 109
90 110
90
9 100
d9 e
d 100
e
9 110
09 110
1956
12m From the grassy ledge halfway down the gul-
ly pull onto the face on small but positive holds.
Climb the wall diagonally leftwards via two short
cracks. Finish up the final corner above or head back
right to finish up the right-hand end of the ledge.
“Safeguarded by a top-rope held by a ‘stooge’,
the route was ascended using complicated
combined operations on the small stance halfway up the right corner. Vaya Con Dios was the
result of too much elderberry wine after Byne’s
21st birthday party at Machin’s Farm. It was
often repeated on a top-rope during sober
weekends, until eventually the disappearance
of a useful hold gave reasons for believing the
route was no longer possible.”
1970 Chatsworth guide
250
42 43
20
20
70
8 89 90
36
37 38
39 40
44 45
46
47 48
49 50
46
47 48
44
45
21
17
18 19
8 6079 80
35
33 34
43
69 70
8 70
89
29 30
35
59 60
51
53
54
52 53
54
55
55
18 Four Horsemen E2 5b «
139 140
132 133 134 135 136 137 138
121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
131 132 133 134 135
152 153 154 155
49
22
23 24
56 57
56
161
144 168145 169 146
142 166
143 167
162 163 141
170 147 148 149 150
164 165
161
144 168145169 146170 147 148 149 150
162 163 141
164 165
143 167
142 166
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
151 152
155
171
181
191
57 58 59 60191
1981
67
69 70
68 69 70
1951
15m A great line which keeps you guessing all the
way. From the niche of the previous route, follow a
71 72break73to the74arête.75Get established
76 77 and
78
descending
continue delicately to the top.
71 72 73 74
20 The Igloo E5 6b «
75
76
77 78
79 80
79 80
1986
15m Short, sharp, but somewhat tempting. Climb
83 and84right 85
81 82 down
87 Fin88
the overhang
of the 86
last route.
ish directly to join Four Horsemen. It is possible to
85 left. 86 87 88
82side-runner
83 84 to the
place81a small
89 90
89
90
21 Spanish Fly E6 6c ««
1985
15m 91
The main
is
a
quick
92 challenge
93 94 of the
95 buttress
96
97 and
98 99 100
and extremely powerful route. Cross the roof
make hard moves to gain the break above. A small
98
93above94the lip
wire 91
can be92placed
is more97reliable
95and 96
than runners behind the fragile flake in the roof. a A
problem
the pit
the sloper and lurch101 in102
103below104gains105
106 107 108
es up the wall above on pockets: Afro, V4 (6b).
99 100
109 110
101 102 103
105 106 107 1956
108 109 110
22 Vaya Con Dios E2104
5c ««
20m An unforgettable pilgrimage, and an essential
D
156 157 158 159 160
132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140
159 160
152 153 154 155 156 157 158
58 59 60
61 Climb
67 up68the
62 into
63 the64niche65and go66directly
finish.
wall on layaways and good holds to a rounded exit.
136 137 138 139 140
151
181
12m A fine route with good runners and a worrying
61 62 63 64 65 66
19 Lightning Wall HVS 5a ««
131
171
50
Nowanda Buttress – Gardom’s Crag
131
151
24
27 28
126 127 128 129 130
112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120
121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
118 119 120
112 113 114 115 116
131 132 133 111
134 135 136 137 138 139 140 117
111
10
26
50
e
16
9
23
19
50
8
7
6
153 154
156 157 158 159 160
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
27
26
151
152 25
153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160
30
Editor’s Choice
D
After climbing predominantly at one crag, you have to question (your
sanity!) what constitutes an Editor’s Choice. However I’ve got to
make my choices and, quite frankly, there’s a bit of a recurring theme
running through my selection. These were routes I’d mainly avoided
28 or just plain awkward, but they
because they looked green, uninviting
30 of rediscovering a
left me pleasantly surprised, with a warm feeling
good route that had been neglected. Some of these routes less
travelled give you a pioneering feeling of adventure and perhaps even
a glimpse of what it must have been like for those intrepid explorers
of routes new.
29
182 183161184 162
185 186 187 188
190
163 164 165 189166 167 168 169 170
182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
Lightning Wall / Four Horsemen: if these
31 were on a clean
south-facing wall they’d be right up there. What great moves! What a
161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 great position! And, an added bonus, both low in the grade.
Rythmic Itch: this route is often overlooked due to its “famous”
172 173 174 175 176
171194 195
177 short
178 chock192 193
179 180 neighbour, but don’t be fooled – this baby is just as good.
199 up200the
Gardom’s
experience.
Move
196 197 198
stoned
crack,
engage
body parts, invocate
171
172 196
192 193
174 all
194 195
178 179any180 Chunky Doorstep: award yourself a star just for seeking this one
173
198175199 176200
197
deities you can think
of, and propel177
your body leftout. A lovely set of moves that lead to the top and a nice picnic
41 spot.
wards along the wide break, around the arête, and
Did I mention the belay off a millstone?
struggle
182a standing
181 into
185 186Finish
187 with
188 ease.
183 184 position.
189 190 The Quarries: I’ve got to hold my hands up on this one. I put these
36 off for some time, but one sunny winter’s day after a dry spell I gave
182 183
184 Ordinary
23 181
Overhang
Buttress
« 189
1934 190 them a go and was quite pleasantly surprised.
185 186 VS1874b 188
12m A small nibble of the joys of the last route, givMoorside Crack: Are you sitting comfortably? You should be if
ing a great little wrestle. Follow the last route until it
you’re doing it right. Mind you, standing up is not as easy as you’d
192contort
191 to
195short
is possible
up the
197 198 199 200 think.
193 194
196crack.
33
32
D
c
192 193
194 VS1954b 196 197 198 199
24 191
Infirmary
Groove
1956 200 Some of the routes at Gardom’s are like fine wines which need the right
12m A more conventional crack but still tricky.
Climb it moving right into a second short crack and
a sometimes heathery exit. 33
temperature and humidity. Don’t blow your cork by climbing them on
the wrong day but savour the moment and you’ll be well rewarded.
Nowanda Buttress
To the right, a series of walls give a fine collection35of
routes. The routes on the left walls can sometimes
be green, while those on the right have a much sunnier aspect.
25 Traction VS 4c
38
a
40
39
John37
Camateras
1956
6m A direct line up the centre of the buttress via a
curvy crack and capping overhang.
26 Bloc Steno V5 (6b)
A direct start to Traction up a blunt34
undercut rib
and groove. V1 (5c) if the right arête is used.
27 Gardom’s Gate VD
1949
8m The prominent groove leads to a ledge. Step
up then traverse left on jams to an easier finish up
the sidewall of the upper block.
251
04/02/2010 16:47:52
42
41
Gardom’s Edge – Nowanda Buttress
25
50
31
Och Aye Wall – Gardom’s Edge
41
66 67 then
65 overhang,
68 69 70
62 left63over64the low
rock. Swing61up and
124 125in 126 127 128 129 130
123is allowed
decide which side you121fancy.122Gear
65 66 67 68 69 70
62 Wanda
64 avoid
63 but
Nowanda for61Little
the holds.
131 132 133 134 135
33
34 Nowanda HVS 5a ««
71
30
72
73
141
35 Landsick E1 5b «
136 137 138 139 140
1953
74
75
c
138 139 140
77 78 79 80
76
150
142 143 144 145
1953 146 147 148 149
33
89 90
144 pro143 arrange
145 146 147 148 149 150
overhang at two-thirds 141
height.142
Carefully
85 86 traverse.
82 rightwards
83 84 finishing
tection before 81a tough,
87 88 89
29
151
156 157 158 159 160
163 164
166 167 168 169 170
32
Seven metres down to the right is a flat-fronted
buttress with a prominent right-angled corner on
its left-hand side:
41
To the right101of this
a deep,
102 buttress
103 104 is 105
106 capped
107 108 109 110
162 wall
chimney. Starting on its161left-hand
163 is:164 165 166 167
101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
28 Corner Crack D
8m The deep gully.
29 Attraction HVS 5a
D
1951
1956
c
10m Follow a series of green, sloping mantelshelves
up the blunt arête, the first being by far the hardest.
30 Moyer’s Climb HS 4b «
c.1931
15m A diagonal route with a hard start and an
even harder finish. Start at the left side of the buttress, climb
some gear.
42 A long
38 up and rightwards to
40
39the finish at the right-hand
stretch brings
edge.
3137 Moyer’s Variation S 4c
pre-1950
12m After a hard start climb more easily up the cen-
tre of the face.
32 Social Fools E1 5b
1981
10m Beginning under the right-hand arête swing
up leftwards and mantelshelf onto green holds close
to Moyer’s Variation. Move up just left of the arête
to finish.
252
38
35
a
91 92 crag’s
93 94 E3s
95 96 will
10m The second of the
99 100
151 great
152 153which
154 97test
15598 156
157 158 159 160
your ability to crank on slopers. Follow
the last route
to the overhang,
for the96top.97 98 99 100
92 lurch
93 directly
91 then
94162 95
161
165
a The
dog-legged crack in the wall to the right is Grey
Crack, HD (pre-1950).
a
90
152 153 154 155
1981
36 Landsickness E3 6a ««
10m The aptly named crack up the corner.
D
36
82 the83series
13m A tester. 81Follow
cracks86to a 87
small88
84 of 85
31
32
52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60
33 Cobweb51Arête/Little
E2 5c/6a
125
121 Wanda
127 128 129 130
124 1994/1999
122 123
12m The arête on either side. Artificial, but on nice 126
12m Fun fun71fun. 72
The 73
crack74at132the75133
left 76
of 134
the77wall
136 80137
13578 79
131
gives a classic jamming test.
28
29
116 117 118 119 120
119 120
114
116
112
54 113
55 56 5711558 59 60117 118
53
52 111
51
30
D
44 45112 46113 47 11448 11549
42 43 111
37 Cave Gully HD 171
172 173 174pre-1950
175
a Gain, HVD (trad), climbs
the wall, arête and crack171right 172
of Landsickness
173 174 . b175
Just right, the short slabDand chockstone outside the
gully is Capstone Climb, VD (pre-1950).
181
38 Cave Gully Crack S 4b
34
176 177 178 179 180
42 179
Garden
1890
180Face Indirect D « 176 177 178
10m Another ancient Puttrell pitch. A short corner
leads to dogleg cracks up the wall above. Heading
b c d
8
9
10
2 3 4188 5189 6190 7
1 e186
a b184c 185
181 182 183
187 To the right is an easy way down. d The dirty right
steep and pushy: tough for the grade.
10m The crack system just right of the gully is quite d
pre-1950
12m The chockeda b
crack
leads
constricting
192
c d191
h a 193
194 195
e f gto
11
chimney. The cruxa may
b c be
f g h which way to
d edeciding
face before you enter.
h
a b c d191 f g192
194
e
193
195
abc d fgh
40 Garden Face Crack HSe4b «
c.1931
15m Grunting guaranteed. Start with a move on to
a platform on the left, and gain the crack by an awkward move, with protection from monster cams (VS 21
without). Climb the crack to finish.
41 Garden Face Direct VS 5a «
pre-1950
10m Start up the previous route and swing right-
31
196
12 197
13
hand wall is Heather Wall, HS 4b (1951), finishing
18 , VS
19 5b 20
(1990), starts
left of the roof;16e Small17People
left
of
the
arête
finishing
to
the
right
of
the roof.
200
198
14
19915
16
17
18
45 Tartan Route VS 5a «
1951/54
12m A technical and fingery test. Start left of the
corner and climb straight up via a tricky initial
move. The top can get overgrown so either finish
left or exit right through the entertaining squeeze.
46 Capstone Gully M «
pre-1950
10m Low grade adventure up the juggy corner line
with a caving exit.
20
19
Och Aye
Wall:
200 Around the arête to the right is a
196 197 slabby
198 199
wall in a tree-shrouded bay. Despite its initial
dirty appearance the necessary holds are clean and
even somewhat26polished providing tricky starts.
22
27 28 VS295a «
23 43
25 Aye Wall Indirect
30
24 Och
pre-1950
18m Start just to the right of the arête and, using
some polished 35
holds, climb to a ledge at 8m.
32
37 38 VS 5b39«40
35 Aye36Wall Direct
33 44
34 Och
e
1934
15m The polished direct start is infuriating. Start
at slippery footholds, to the left of the centre of the
47
wall, and climb directly to the top.
wards on to the face and follow it to the top. There’s
a couple of reachy moves which aren’t too bad once
you work them out. A direct is only just harder.
41
37
168 169 170
and left at the dogleg is S 4a. c Garden Fence, D
182 183 184 185 186 187 up
190
188 189
(trad),
is the short but nice wall to the right.
a pre-1950 e
39 Chockstone Climb
b dHSe4af g h
42
40
39
42
43
44
45
46
48
47
55
56
57
49
58
50
59 60
45
43
46
44
253
04/02/2010 16:47:55
1
2
5
4
3
8
7
6
9
17 18Buttress
19 20
Gardom’s Edge 16– Gardom’s
11
12
13
14
17
16
15
18
21
23
20
19
50
27 28
32
33
35
34
29 30
44
43
42
37 38
36
46
45
e
39 40
45
43
48
47
56
55
57
58
59 60
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
72
73
74
75
76
77
68
69 70
78
79
80
80
90
74
75
76
77
78
79
89
71
72
73
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88 89
91
92
93
94
95 96
91
101
101
92
97
98
98
99
99
90
100
94
95
96
97
102 103
104
105
106
107 108 109 110
102 103
104
105
106
107 108 109 110
100
Dave Parry on Pogle’s Wood,V4 (page xxx). Al William’s relatively recent discovery shows that there
are still high-quality classics at reasonable grades to be found by those that know where to look.
Photo: John Coefield
126
124 125
126
D
a
122 123
121
pre-1957
135
136
e
132 133
131
134 135
136
c.1931
146
144 145
142 143
To the right of the Green routes141is a small
buttress
and an old split oak. Behind the tree is a short
152 153 154 155
151
arête.
146
54 Little Arête VS 4c «
152 153pre-1957154 155
156
60m From Moyer’s Climb move rightwards to finish
up Tartan Route. Unfortunately, it is close to the
top and bottom of the crag on occasions.
ancy moves up the inset groove.161At the162ledge
163step164 165
left and finish up again. Micro cams might prove
handy for the nervous.
161 162 163 164 165
166
a The wall to the right of Capstone Gully is Nerve
Block, E5 6a (1981). b The straight crack in the
wall to the right is the aptly named Slime Crack,
VS 5a (1931). c The Rink, E2 5b (1956), breaks out
Pogle’s Wood: This lies directly below
172 173But-174
171 Moyer’s
44
51
49
52 53
54
pre-1950
leftwards and boldly climbs the wall.
93
D D
125
112 113
145
48
50
49
52
71
121 of a122
124
the seam, reach right for the start
ramp123
system.
Finish direct up the wall with a scary top move.
111
113
12m The undercut corner is not as bad as it looks
141for purists.
142 143 144
starting from the cheat block. 5a
46
47 The Zigzag Girdle HS 4b
51
116
53 Green Crack HS 4b
47
41
115
112
12m The green arête at the right-hand
of the134
131 132end 133
wall direct to a rounded exit.
35
31
114
52 Green Rib E2 5c
25
24
116
111
Pogle’s Wood – Gardom’s Edge
26
22
114 115
10
48 Fantasy HVS 5b
1956
10m The fun wall, starting with awkward moves
onto a projecting flake. Arrange bomber cams for
a tricky mantel leftwards to gain a ledge; lasso the
sapling and finish directly up the steep wall above.
49 Byne’s Crack S 4b «
pre-1950
15m The obvious crack. The midway crux is a swine
and best suited to big hands and feet. Starting down
in the pit and finishing over the overlap on the right
adds much enjoyment.
50 The Working Man E2 5b
11m Break out right from
1995
Byne’s Crack onto the
face as soon as you can, where flared breaks offer
little in the way of substantial protection; RPs useful. A rounded flake and a blind reach bring you to
a large ledge. Continue up the bulging wall above.
51 Waggy E7 6c «
2002
11m Start at the right-hand end of the cave just right
at two obvious jugs. Using gastons, undercuts and
151
156
9m Ascend the little gem arête by technical bal-
175
17
174 175
17
tress, with one of the best problems on the circuit.
171
55 Pogle’s Wood Left-Hand V3 (6b)
172 173
The left arête may feel harder or easier depending on
which holds you deem ‘in’.
182
181
183 184
56 Pogle’s Wood V4 (6b)
181
182
191
192 193
185
184 185
183
The right arête has gorgeous moves on perfect slopers:
see photo on page xxx. a Pogle’s Wood Sit Start V8
(6c) is even better. b A dirty little sit start lies on the
191 (6b).192 193 194
boulder to the right: Wormhole, V4
The name ‘Gardom’s Edge’ hails from its
former landowners, Thomas Gardom & Sons,
who resided in the parish at Yeld Farm and
Bubnell Hall circa 1787 onwards. Legend has
it one of the Gardom family was a blacksmith,
specialising in wrought iron, his legacy giving
rise to such routes as Blacksmith’s Wall and
The Smithy as well as the nice twirly Golden
Gates at Chatsworth.
SJ
166
195
194 195
255
04/02/2010 16:47:56
Gardom’s Edge – Moyer’s Buttress
111
112 113 114 115
111
112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120
121 122 123 124 125
131 132 133 134 135
61
64
a
60
60
61
e
57
70
58
80
55
90
56
90
100
110
110
146 147 148 149 150
141
142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
151
152 153 154 155
151
152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160
161
162 163 164 165
161
171
162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
171
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
156 157 158 159 160
166 167 168 169 170
181
182 183 184 185
181
182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
191
192 193 194 195
191
192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200
186 187 188 189 190
59
80
100
136 137 138 139 140
132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140
131
141 142 143 144 145
70
126 127 128 129 130
122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
121
62
116 117 118 119 120
65
62
Moyer’s Buttress
Fifteen metres to the right is a magnificent buttress,
the showpiece of the edge. Undercut and smooth,
the compelling steep upper slab gives an impression
of isolated impregnability.
57 The Gritstone Treaty V8 (6c)
The brilliant hanging left arête of the block left of
Moyer’s Buttress.
58 Mo’s Problem V7 (6c)
Climb the right arête of the hanging block, above
an appalling landing. Originally done with a ladder
used to create a pad platform!
59 Cave Arête HVS 5a «
1950
18m A climb of two contrasting styles. First fight
256
66
63
196 197 198 199 200
your way out of the cave up the crack, then teeter up
the arête. Perhaps a good warm up for its neighbour,
or it might just put you off.
60 Stormbringer E3 6a ««
1956/76
20m Great God Almighty: E3 number three, and
as fierce a test of mantelshelving as you will ever get
at the grade. With a side-runner in the chockstone
up and left, get the flat hold above the roof. Make a
brave mantel onto this – the living end – and continue more easily up the wall above.
61 Monotheism E7 6b «
1998
21m An impressive and bold route busting directly
over the centre of the main roof. Follow the slab
to the overhang. Make hard moves over this (poor
small cam) then crux moves up the slab passing a
crucial mono to reach easier ground.
Duz Walker on one of Gardom’s most gruesome moves, the perched mantel on Stormbringer, E3 6a (opposite
page). A sense of urgency hangs over the picture, recognisable by anyone who has done the route – and not
without reason. Duz pressed it out to get stood right up, level with the next holds before taking the fall, in a
ropes-between-the-legs-and-everything clatter onto the slab below. Photo: Nick Smith.
04/02/2010 16:47:59
13
51
17
18 19 20
61
15 16 17 18 19 20
14 Gardom’s
Edge – Moyer’s Buttress
16
62 Moyer’s Buttress E1 5b «««
33 34
63 Biven’s
E1 5b «
49
46 Crack
47 48
45
44
43
50
63
59 60
73
82 83
82 83
92 93
92 93
102 103
102 103
66
65
63
91
1955/66
72
73
82 83
65
74
69
84
75
76
77 78
76
77 78 79 80
87 88 89 90
82 83 84 85
86
87 88 89
72
94
95
96
73
76
97
97
98 99 100
98 99 100
69
73
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
a
75
70
71 Elliott’s Buttress Indirect VS 4c «
pre-1950
14m From high in the gully shuffle rightwards
along the break where an inelegant belly flop or
stylish mantel gains the ledge. At its right-hand end
continue more easily up the arête before moving
back to finish up the wall above.
D
72 Seventy One White Mice E2 6a «
1981
15m A technical route. A little bit lower down is a
thin crack. Start steadily up this until all the holds
run out. A bit of cunning and some rounded holds
allow you to reach the break. Finish direct.
73 The Eye ofcFaith E1 5c «««
1956
25m A Gardom’s classic. This original, right-hand
74
73
start, has now become the less popular version, but
it adds a significant amount of tough climbing.
Climb the roofed corner and move leftwards with
difficulty to gain a thin crack in the nose, crux. At
the top of the thin crack move right to the arête and
follow it magnificently to the76
top. b A slightly easier,
more popular and equally classic HVS 5b start is
possible by moving in rightwards from the gully to
gain
75 the thin crack.
74 Rhythmic Itch E1 5b ««
1981
25m A good counter line. Start up the roofed corner
as before but exit right and climb to the second roof.
Either continue direct with a huge reach or, better
still, make an exhilarating traverse left towards the
132 133 134
141 142 143 144 1
74
90
“The great challenge of the edge, the
abc d e fgh
pre-1950
magnificent
Moyers Buttress, still awaited 69 Pine Crack S 5a
94 95 96
10m Climb the dirty cleft behind the tree to a spa98 99 It100
a lead despite many 97
vain attempts.
cious ledge. Continue up the obvious finger crack.
70
wasn’t until 1955 that Peter Biven, ac98
69
99
94 95 by96Trevor97Peck, displayed 100
a
companied
one
70 Baton Route VD
1953
of the boldest feats of cragsmanship of the 10m Step left onto the slab to the right of the oak
tree and climb to the ledge of Pine Crack. Layback
105 106 leading
107 108the 109
110
era104by successfully
route.”
the crack in the slab above. Nice. a A direct elimi1970 Chatsworth guide nate start and finish is VS 5a.
104 105 106 107 108 109 110
131
c
67
68
b
92 93 94 95 96
92 93
131 132 133 134
80
86
71
112 113 114
121 122 123 124 1
Elliott’s Buttress – Gardom’s Edge
121 122 123 124
leading to the same ledge and finish. b Keith’s Arête,
102
103 104 the105
101
106arête107
109pleas108c The
110
64 Perfect Day E5 6b «««
1979
VD (trad), takes
wall and
to right.
22m A 65
great route,
with
good
gear
but
a
commitProblem
Chimney
,
HVD
4a
(trad),
is
antly
awkward
66 67 68 69 70
ting and technical crux sequence. Follow Biven’s 10m right of Keith’s Wall and has a tricky exit. d Right
Crack until it fades. Swing left and make bouldery again is a nice V0– (4b) rib arête problem.
65 past a diagonal crack (runner)
64 moves
69 to reach
crux
the deep slot above. Don’t dally here, as the rounded Elliott’s Buttress
finishing moves, passing a pocket, are still tricky.
About 50m right of Moyer’s Buttress lies this tall
65 Perfect Day76Direct77Start78V7 (6c) 80
narrow-fronted buttress.
a Onbits cleft dis a ebuttress
Justifiably popular locking between positive holds. largely shrouded by a prominent oak:
a b c d e
The first edge is usually gained by a79jump and is
75 static.
78 Biven’s Crack.
76 Escape
80
74 harder
77 down
67 Pining for the Fjords S 4c
traditional
slightly
10m Start left of the tree and climb on to the ridge
6684 Keith’s
g h67Finish up the awkward crack.
b c dtoethefledge.
86 Crack
85 Corner
87 HS884b 89 90 1949 leading
10m The steep corner on the right to a ledge. Climb
h
b c d e f g 68
1997
the slanting groove on the left to the top. a To the 68 Mr Three Degrees E2 6a
c
g
h
a
b
f
d
e
84
85
86
87 Crack
88 ,89VD (1981-85),
right is Keith’s Other Corner
5m The short arête to the left of the wide finishing
90
acrack
b c ofdthee previous
f g h route; hard and bold.
258
111
67 68 69 70
85
DD
72
59 60
1955
this to its end and finish rightwards with sustained
91
difficulty. b If you haven’t had enough (doubt58 (1983), steps back
ful), Enigma
56 57, E3 5c
55 Variation
leftwards on to the wall, and climbs directly101
to a
rounded and difficult exit.
54
54
64
12m On the face to the right is a steep crack. Jam
52 53
62
62
21m One of the top E1s on grit – historically signif26interest and variety every step of the way.
icant, with
Climb up the cracks in the slab and swing right to
27 28 29Move
25
30 up to a sloping
a niche on the steep sidewall.
break and make some difficult moves (crux) to 71
get
35 on the front face. Climb the slab with a
established
bit of help from the arête to the top. a For a fresh
81
37 38classic,
35
Way, E3
view on36this venerable
40
39 Imperfect
5c (2009), follows the arête on its steep right side
until forced onto the left side at a large foothold 81
just
below the top.47
Impressively pumpy.
23 24
52 53
141
142 143 144
151
152 153 154
151
152 153 154
161
162 163 164
arête using a great big rail. Shove some 161
gear in and
162
move up rapidly before your arms fail.
171
75 Elliott’s Buttress Direct VS 4b ««
163 164
172 173 174
1934
25m Another Gardom’s gem. Start down in the
171 rock.
172 173
depths and emerge out onto clean soaring
The corner and crack bring you to the top of a huge
flake. Step off the polished foothold and climb the
upper wall trending rightwards to gain 181
the final182
183
crack. c The short groove and slab to the right is
Evasion, HVD 4a (pre-1957).
174
18
181 182 183 18
“From the summit of the Eagle Stone the two
Sheffielders saw the fine crags of Gardom’s
Edge to the south. This edge is one of the
191most 192 193 194
charmingly situated in the district. Its buttresses, rising to a height of perhaps seventy
191 192 193 19
feet, look down over the wooded and bracken
slopes to the cultivated peacefulness of Baslow
and Chatsworth. Puttrell and Watson, who
found this edge virgin of nailmarks, ascended
and named Brown Crack and Garden Face,
but the buttresses had a repelling steepness to
which they were unaccustomed, and there were
few lines of weakness to tempt them to further
visits.”
High Peak
259
04/02/2010 16:48:00
11 12
13
14
15
51
52 53
61
62
17
18 19 20
17 18 19 20
16
16
54
59 60
66
65
63
64
67 68 69 70
65
Dead Tree Wall – Gardom’s Edge
69
26
21
23 24
22
27 28
25
29 30
35
31
32
35
33 34
37 38
36
39 40
71
72
73
74
75
76
81
82 83
84
85
86
44
42 43
47 48
46
45
55
51
61
52 53
62
50
49
56 57
59 60
66
65
64
91
58
54
63
91
101
67 68 69 70
65
92 93 94 95 96
77
92 93
94
95
96
80
90
81
79
97
98 99 100
97
98 99 100
78
82
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
Dead Tree Wall: The south-facing wall to the
103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
101 102 right.
76 Jungle Arête HS 4b
1953
10m Start up the undercut corner. Using the flake
69
arête and follow it more easily to
D onto theScramble
D swing
a large ledge. D
off or finish up the rather
more difficult finishing groove of Dead Tree Wall.
a bHS 4bc «
d e
77 Dead Tree Wall
71
72
73
74
81
82 83
84
75
76
85
86
77 78
79 80
88 89 90
87 88 89
91
91
101
90
92 93 94 95 96
97
98 99 100
92 93
97
98 99 100
94
95
96
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
Airlie Anderson on Eye of Faith, HVS / E1 (page xxx). Tough enough, but with good protection and great moves,
it’s a pleasure from beginning to end. Photo: Ian Parnell.
260
DD
D
1934/52
d theewall follow a
20m Starting fromathebcentre
c of
bold, rising traverse to a sapling and go on up to
80 Climb the slabby groove in the
a large ledge.
83 wall
c d e tof ga hard
a b behind
h exit. Other variations exist.
a bc d e fgh
1983/2002
h on Fire VS 5a
a b c78d Liar,
e f gPants
15m
A
mini
multi-pitch
adventure.
Just
to
the
right
abc d e fgh
is a step in the ground. Climb up the wall to a large
a b c d e81f g h
ledge. Either set up a stance or bravely finish up the
wall above via a long stretch.
79 Gossip HVS 5b
83
88 89 90
87 88 89
47
41
79 80
77 78
82
1985
7m Higher up on the right is a short but deceptive-
ly steep crack. A good opportunity to see if all that
wall climbing has paid off. Big moves between good
holds lead to a large break. Move right and continue
cautiously up the wall. a At the same grade Rumour
(1983) exits left at the end of the initial crack.
To the right of the descent path is a narrow green
7m high buttress with a block-filled flake chimney
on its right. a Central Overlap, VS 4c (2002), takes
the left facet and overlap direct. b Right-Hand
Flake, VD (trad) has a hard start then follows flake
cracks rightwards or, harder, the hanging flake direct. c Flaky Chimney, M (trad) surprisingly follows
the flaky chimney.
84
80 Capstone Rib HVS 5b «
1957
12m A good outing with contrasting climbing.
Climb the slabby south face of the tower to a ledge.
Make a hard move up the narrow front face via a
mono. Finish more easily.
Blacksmith’s Wall: A short distance to the right is
a buttress capped by a roof.
81 Striker’s Rib E1 5c
1957
12m Worth a crack. Start up the mediocre arête to a
ledge where things get interesting. 85
A large cam pro-86
vides protection for the hard finish up the suddenly
exposed arête.
The next two routes start up a protruding flake.
82 Smithy HVD
1957
12m Climb the flake to a mantelshelf, then finish
with exposure in the hanging groove right of the
overhang.
a b c d e
8
Fifteen metres right, and below the cliff, is a
blocky rib; the top of which forms a small tower:
261
04/02/2010 16:48:04
88
51
52 53
61
62
54
59 60
66
65
63
64
67 68 69 70
65
1
2
11
12
A great way to enjoy the view across the wooded valley below. Luke Xxxx catching some air on the
spectacular, though reasonable, finish of Hearse Arête, E1 5b (page xxx), Photo: Nick Smith.
72
73
74
75
76
81
82 83
84
85
86
77 78
79 80
91
101
90
92 93 94 95 96
97
98 99 100
92 93
97
98 99 100
94
95
96
14
101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
a b c d e
a b c d
e
10
17
18 19 20
17 18 19 20
21
23 24
22
27 28
25
161
162
171
172
171
172
Oread Buttress – Gardom’s Edge
87
29 30
35
31
41
32
33 34
42 43
84
44
35
37 38
36
45
47 48
46
55
51
52 53
61
62
63
39 40
47
56 57
54
85
86
65
66
49
86 Oread VS 4b ««
59 60
69
89 90pre-1950
corner and move left to a ledge.
Follow
87 88
89 the90good
manufactured holds up the wall behind to a large
platform. Are you feeling brave? Use the big flake to
91 make
92 an93airy94exposed
95 96
step onto,
then around,
97 and
98 99 100
the arête to a finish up the wall behind. a This can
reached
a manteling the block
more
92 be 93
99 is100
91 also
94 by 95
96 97 98 and
in keeping with the grade. b Spring Route, HS 4b
route weaving up the rock to the
101 (1963),
102 103is a poor
104 105 106 107 108 109 110
gives a V1 (5c).
right. c The right wall of the bay
corner is a south-west-facing wall split by two cracks
both of which prove to be the meat of the routes.
1962
16m The overhanging crack requires a bit of cun-
a b cd e f g h
a bc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
192
191
192
pre-1950
7m The juggy cleft behind the tree, 2m right.
To the right of Yellow Chimney the Edge
deteriorates once again. The jumbled rocks here
give boulder problems and micro-routes some of
which were even named in some past guidebooks:
just how much of an obscurist are you?
88 Drum Roll V7 (6b)
As the edge curves up and right, there is a quarriedlooking, undercut slab. Climb the centre of this.
Can also be done from a sitter at a grade harder.
84
Bin Laden’s Cave: Hidden in the woods below is
another boulder. It’s a few hundred metres along
the bottom path from Pogle’s Wood and is neither
a home to a terrorist bogeyman nor much of a cave
come to think of it, and yet it contains:
89 Bin Lillemule V7 (6c)
85
86
The left arête avoiding the tree.
90 Bin Laden’s Cave V5 (6b)
The right arête is worth the detour.
ning or a bit of faith in smearing and brings
e you to a
a b c d arête
ledge. Ascend the more conventional
to finish
on the steep right-hand a
face.b c d e
191
1949
87 Yellow Chimney M
pre-1950
101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
Oread Buttress: Around the arête from the green
262
182
upper part.
18m Not as bad as it first appears. Start up the
DD
181
16m The central crackline moving leftwards in the
About 12m to the right is a large and rather green
73 This
76 of:
72 bay.
74 is75the start
77 78 79 80
71 corner
85 Nymph’s ArêteD VS 4c «
182
58
12m Starting just to the right, follow an obvious
line of wide cracks to a tricky exit.
82 October
83 84Climb
81 84
86
85 HVD
181
88
50
67 68 69 70
64 65 Wall VD
83 Blacksmith’s
D
a b cd e f g h
a bc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
16
9
26
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
DD
15
89 90
87 88 89
91
13
8
7
6
16
69
71
5
4
3
263
04/02/2010 16:48:07
87
Ove
rhan
Forest Green Circuit
ging
Now
1
Pogl
e
ress
and
’s W
ood
The bouldering at Gardom’s North has been well
documented and justifiably popular for a long
time. Away from the roadside and the open moor
the rest of this rambling woodland crag has been
slower to reveal its secrets, yet gradually, bit by
bit over the years, great problems have been
turning up among the moss and twisted oaks.
Now there are enough problems dotted along
the edge to string together a circuit of exceptional
character. The problems are well spaced but
reward the search, each one a thing of beauty, all
varied and on excellent rock. A number are also
pretty highball making this a circuit best suited
to a team approach. This is a tough collection
of problems from V4 to V8, with nine at V6 and
above; fear not though, as none are complete
stoppers at the grade. Though not a huge circuit
each problem is substantial and involving, and
whilst very achievable in a day it will certainly
feel like a big one! Onward to the forest ye bold
hearted explorer.
Butt
a Bu
ttres
s
2 Moye
r
4 3 ’s Buttr
ess
The Problems
Gardom’s Left-Hand – page xxx
1 Bloc Steno
(xx)
2 The Gritstone Treaty
(xx)
3 Perfect Day Direct Start
(xx)
4 Pogle’s Wood Sit Start
(xx)
5 Bin Laden’s Cave
(xx)
Gardom’s Right-Hand – page xxx
6 Agadoo
(xx)
7 A Fearful Orange (xx)
8 Two Headed Boy
(xx)
9 Double Bum
(xx)
10Business as Usual
(xx)
11 English Voodoo
(xx)
Gardom’s South Boulders – page xxx
12 Captain Cabinets
(xx)
13 Suavito
(xxx)
14China in your Hand
(xx)
Moorside Rocks p xx
15 The Jackalope
(xx)
Bin
5
Lade
n’s C
a
ve
Und
erta
6
ker
Cro
JF
’s B
cod
uttr
ess
ile
7 Capillia
ry C
8
rack
App
le B 9
uttr
ess
The
Qua
rrie
s
10
Pill 11
ar W
all
Gar
dom
Bou ’s Sou
lder th
s
12
Moo
13
rsid
14
e Ro
cks
15
04/02/2010 16:48:08
71
81
Gardom’s Edge – Undertaker’s Buttress
81
91
4
91
4
3
101
101
3
3
3
2
4
127
121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140
82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90
121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140
4
82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89
90
131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140
141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 8
92 93 944 95 96
97 98 99 100
3
141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
6
92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
151 152
155
102 103 104 3 105 1065 107 108 109 110 141 142 143 144 153145 154146 147 156
149 158
150 159 160
148 157
6
151 152 153 154 155 156
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
158 159 160
151 152 153 154 155 156 c157 158 157
159 160
5
161 162
151 152 153 154 163155 164156165157 166
159 168
160 169 170
158 167
D D D
161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170
161 162 163 164
165 166 167 168 169 170
a
DD
D
172
171
175
180
177
173
a b c d e
161 162 163 164 b165 174166 167 176
169 178
170 9 179
168
7
a b c d e
178 10179 180
171 172171 173 172174 173175 174176175177 176178 177
a b c d e
179 180
72
73
74
75
76
77 78
79 80
a b c d
1
2
e
4
1
Gardom’s Right-Hand
4
d e fgh
a wide
b c dcorner
e f g hjust right with
(pre-1950), climbs the
b c dthe
f g hoverlap.
e top
an squirming exit just abelow
abc d e fgh
After a gap of 100m or so, the climbing gets going
abc d e fgh
again. The right-hand side of the crag is characterised On the main buttress the first climb is:
by less continuous rock, with more sporadic buttress1981
es strung out among the trees running from Under- 2 Blaze VS 4c
taker’s Buttress along to the Apple Buttress area.
8 12m The ‘Coffin Crack’ and wall at the left-hand
end of the main buttress.
8
Undertaker’s Buttress Area
Approximately 100m past the Oread area is the very
conspicuous overhang of Hearse Arête. At the far left
of this is an outlier buttress with a small overlap:
1
Gemstone HVS 5a c
2002
c ‘gem’ takes the wall direct
8m This overlooked, ahem,
by some initial bouldery moves. Continue past the
overlap to an interesting finish. a Milestone, S 4a
a
3 Undertaker’s Buttress VS 4c, 4b ««
1951
22m A great route that cleverly manages to avoid
the steep ground. Start up Blaze to the chockstone,
teeter right and climb the delicate wall to a possible
stance. One more tricky move around the arête
leads to an easier finish up a short, exposed crack
in the right side wall. Found that easy? Then try the
main event…
171
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
4
5b ««
1956
182 183Arête
181 Hearse
184 E1185
186 187 188 189 190
20m The striking overhang yields a spectacu181route
190
lar
that
has184a186
bit185of
Start189up the
186188 187
181 182
183185
190
187everything.
183 182184
189 188
rounded arête below the large overhang to a frustrat181 182
189 190
183 184 A 185
ing mantel.
bit of186
bold187
wall188
climbing
leads to the
192 193the194
191
stance below
steep195
overhang.
200
197 198 some
199 gear,
196 Arrange
take a breath and tackle the roof on good holds, no
191 192
191 193 192194
200
194right
196198
199on198
196195197
sneaking
off193
to195the
now:
photo
page199
xxx! 200
197
191
192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200
5 Coffin Nail HVS 5a
1989
10m This start belongs on a sea cliff. Just to the
right of the arête make a scary step across the ‘zawn’
to better holds. Continue cautiously up the arête
and wall to the finish of Undertaker’s Buttress.
6 Rest in Pieces VS 5b
1992
8m Start below the damaged flake and climb gently past it taking care not to pull too hard. In fact try
and avoid it completely if you can! A quick reach
leads to a rounded break and a swift exit.
181
182 183 184
181
182 183 184
191
Undertaker’s Area – Gardom’s Edge
191
Marble Wall: Ten metres to the right is a west-fac-
192 193 194
192 193 194
ing bay, quarried in the distant past, and bounded
on the right by a great block of a prow. Some of
the holds are still creaky. a On the left-hand side
the overgrown corner was Route III, VD (1953).
The next two routes start one metre to the right of
the corner: b Tales of the Black Widower, E5 6a
(1988), takes the wall direct; c Marshall’s Route,
HVS 5a (1963), traverses right to a good hold and
continues to easier ground.
7 White’s Route HS 4b
1950
15m Start at the thin crack and follow the flake first
right then back left to an easier upper groove. If
you want a greater challenge, the left crack can be
climbed direct at VS 5a.
8 Birthday Climb VD pre-1950
16m The block-filled corner trending steeply left on
jugs leads to a ledge and an easier upper rib.
9 Pedestal Climb HS 4a
pre-1950
10m A pleasant oddity, better than it first looks.
Start below the prow and climb on to the pedestal. Gymnastic moves up and left lead to a good
ledge. Finish up the delicate wall above. It’s possible to make a direct start to the ledge up the
flake at VS 5b.
The rocky land below the edge used to have a
nine-hole golf course – belonging to The Baslow
Hydro (opened in 1818 and demolished in the
1930s). If you look carefully there are the remains
of six greens and five sets of tees.
a
b
b
7
7
9
9 10
10
Bilberry Buttress
Undertaker’s Buttress
Marble Wall
Nursery Slab
Capiliary Crack
Tree Buttress
Wall Buttress
Chunky Doorstep
Grooved Wall
Apple Buttress
04/02/2010 16:48:15
121 122 123 124 125
121
Gardom’s Edge – Bilberry Buttress
13 Stepped Crack HD «
16
126 127 128 129 130
122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
131 132 133 134 135
pre-1950
133 is134
131line132
20m One for big boots. The rising
of steps
146 147 148 149 150
142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
152 153 154 155
The tasty arête problem left of the151corner.
b
156 157 158 159 160
152 153 1950
154 155 156 157 158 159 160
15 Gardom’s Unconquerable VS1514c ««
11
14m Bring along some big arms and cams for this
161 162 163 164
one. The leaning corner is best laybacked, probably.
photo164
From the ledge escape easily to the
161right:
162see163
right. c A thuggy problem, Willy, V1 (5b), lurches
up the leaning holds on the right, 171
with an172optional
173 174
hard move higher up. d Continuing up the wall in
171 172 173 174
the same line is Xxxx Xxxx, E3 5c (2009).
d
13
12
a
10 Nursery Slab HVS 5a
15
c
16 Whillans’ Blind Variant E1 5b «
pre-1970
Biberry Buttress: Twenty metres to the right is a
large corner bounded on its left by a long ridge.
1953
16m A couple of tricky moves up the left-hand arête
of the wide corner lead to a ledge. Continue up the
right-hand edge of the wall above in an exposed position. a The alternative chockstone start. just right,
can link with the cleft above the ledge to give Bilberry Chimneys, HVD 4a (trad).
12 Crottle E1 5b «
to join Bilberry Buttress. Step off the block, place a
wire, step down. Repeat until you’ve used up all the
good holds and then go for it.
166 167 168 169 170
165 166 167 168 169 170
175
176 177 178 179 180
175 176 177 178 179 180
185
the arête. Hopefully there will be some good holds.
Once around the corner finish up the right-hand
191 192 193 194 195
wall.
191
192
a Boxing Clever, S 4a (2003), is the bold slabby193rib
196 197 198 199 200
194 195 196 197 198 199 200
between the bay of Gardom’s Unconquerable and
Chimney Face, via a series of ledges.
Chimney Face: To the right of the bay the path goes
behind a sharp-edged block into a wide grassy gully.
On the left-hand of this is a pleasant wall which will
provide the soloist some entertainment. On the left
are twin chimneys split by a narrow rib. The lefthand chimney is not worthwhile, but the rib provides a route:
17 Contempt HVD 4a
1956
8m The pleasant narrow rib is taken directly, with
a tricky move pulling round the final roof on the
left. a The Chimney, HVD (pre-1950), surprisingly
is the chimney to the right with an awkward exit on
the right.
1983
12m Climb the thin finger-crack on the side wall
165
186 187 188 189 190
Gardom’s Unconquerable look left along
the break.
181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
Scary isn’t it? Follow it to a committing swing round
the slab. Climb the slab and then the steeper wall
above on some great rugosities. a For Nursery
Cryme, HVD 4a (trad), start at the right of the slab
and climb it diagonally leftwards; shuffle left around
the arête until a steep juggy finish heads back up
and right. b The obvious, old, left-to-right traverse
of the whole prow to finish up the awkward cleft is
Nursery Traverse, D (pre-1950).
11 Bilberry Buttress VS 5a «
1951
182top183of 184
181at the
8m An airy traverse. From the ledge
14
10m Make a tricky move up the short arête to gain
268
141
Gardom’s Area – Gardom’s Crag
135 136 137 138 139 140
followed tightly up to the right to an eventual escape
144 145
143 wall
rightwards; a good line. b A direct141finish142up the
and groove above is E1 5c.
14 Golly V0+ (5b)
136 137 138 139 140
The wall to the right is split by a crack. The next
two routes start just to the left of these at polished
holds:
Meilee Rafe launching up the crucial wide layback on Gardom’s Unconquerable,VS 4c (page xxx).A lack of
footholds and a cantankerous angle combine to give this section an urgent feeling. Photo: Nick Smith.
269
04/02/2010 16:48:18
12
11
Gardom’s Edge – Tree Buttress
22
21
18
19
a
25
80
along a foot-ledge and finish cautiously up the arête
(with side-runners at the grade).
100
100
110
110
e
15
16
17 18 19
121 122 123 124 125
121
29 30
24
25
27 28
26 pre-1950
23
61 VS624b 63
Third Time Lucky
« 64
63
64
65
66
65
67 68 69 70
66
70
195167 68 69
7m Success was had on Nat Allen’s third65visit. Fol- 22
61
62
63
64
66
67
9m Slippery under foot. Make a low traverse left
low the prominent
groove to the roof and an awk62
63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70
19 Chimney Face HS 4a
a desperate dynamic move to gain a small edge just
1953
61
68 69 70
136 137 138 139 140
141
146 147 148 149 150
27
151
152 153 154 155
156 157 158 159 160
151
152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160
161
162 163 164 165
161
22
162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170
24
172 17324 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
171
31
32
30
131
31
28
141 14
33
27
28
29
28
33
pre-1950
151
161
161
171
91
pre-1985
92 down
93 94
94 95the right
95 ground
96 97
9691 again over
Back
on the
98 on
99 100
there are two more routes:
101 102 103 104
92 93
97
98 99
105 106 107 108 109
enough.
32 181
Albert182Spansworthy
E5 6b186
1998 190
189
183 8184 185
187first188pocket
10 its
48m 5Start 6as for7 Agadoo 9and using
36 Right-Hand Crack VS 4c «
90
3
90 make a hard rightward move, above the horrible
a bc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
abc d e fgh
c.1940
72
73
74
75
76
77 78 79 80
71
72
73
74
75
76
77 78
79 80
171
181
181
10m The corner. Pause and reflect on the stuck nuts
13 14drop,15to the16slot and the first bit of gear. Continue from a bygone age but not for too long, there’s one
191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200
directly up the leaning wall above
with long reaches more tricky move before you can relax.
20 on the crest of
17 19418 19 finish
13 between
100
14 19115 breaks
19216 to
198 199 200
193a photogenic
195 196 197
a It’s possible to make an exciting traverse, Gnashthe arête. Very height dependant.
100
er, E3 5c (1996), starting from the corner on midWall Buttress: This is the steep tower of rock to the way ledge to the left of Make it Snappy. Traverse
110
right. Around the corner is a fine south-west facing the break rightwards to finish to the right of The
26 27 28
23 24
25 a collection
30
29 test-pieces.
Crocodile.
wall with
of bold
110
71
1
141
151
29
166 167 168 169 170
centre of the face and continue to the top using91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100
4b 102 103 104 105 pre-1950
good finishing holds. Direct start variations can 28 By-Pass Route S 101
106 10721 108 22109
101 14m
102 Climb
right-to-left
ramp
provide a bit of fun.
103 104the 105
106 107diagonal
108 109 110 and
33 Make it Snappy E6 6b ««« 1984
once on the ledge tackle the butch layback crack left
101 of102the 103
104 105 106 107 108 109 110
The
exposed37left 38
arête 39
of the
buttress is gained
Tree Buttress
back corner.
35
31 32 33 13m
40
36
34
D D D
by a traverse from the right. It has super bouldery
1956 41
Across a grassy gully is a broad buttress split by a 29 Central Crack HVS 5b «
and with decent
protection
42 43 moves,
50 and a long fall
46 a 47great,48safe 49
44 45it makes
D
D offwidth
D the
above
long midway ledge with an old oak tree at its left- 14m Go straight up the undercut
zone,
ground-up prospect for
a b c d e
start of
jamming, squirming, 41
hand end.
the budding E6-er. 48 49 50
Dthe ramp.
D Laybacking,
D
a b c d 42 e 43 44 45 46 47
crying, begging, praying and the use of a knee might
e
a b c d
22 Tree Buttress VS 4b
pre-1950
34 Ecky Thump E7 6c «
1995
help.D
Finish
D up the back
D corner.
a b c d e 12m A desperate and fingery sequence only just
e
12m Start up the short left-hand rib of the buttress
a b c d
51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60
to a ledge. Cross it rightwards almost to the tree to Meanwhile back up on the ledge:
within the safety net gives this climb its bite. Climb
a b c d e
arête, with a
the hand-crack which is not as easy as it looks.
53 wall
51 52 the
54 between
55 56Crocodile
57 58and 59the 60
a ab b cc dde feg h
30 Wall Finish VS 4c « a b c d e f g h 1956
fierce crux to gain the hanging groove and break
d e starts
bb main
23 The Midas Man E4 6b
1983
7m The crack to the rightaof athe
A route for black belts only.
ccd ecorner
fgh
61 62 above.
63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70
g h fine
a b c dwith
8m As for Tree Buttress to the ledge. Climb the
with a bit of jamming and finishes
e fsome
c dand
h
a b go
f g Puppet
e try
The Crocodile E3 5c «««
1975
wall starting with a short, poor crack and then left- laybacking.
this easy,
b dIfeyouf gfound
61 62 35
h
63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70
a atcChatsworth,
Crack
another Brown test-piece.
12m Number four and one of the best E3s around.
wards to the arête.
30
1
1
121
131
32
171 172 1736b 174 175 176 177 178 1791985180 Climb up to a good flake and arrange as much psy71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 31 Agadoo E3
26
Gom
Jabbar
E8
6c
1994
7m The wall to the right is climbed via a pocket, a
chological gear as you can. Now all you have to do is
71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80
7m A serious route. Climb
and a crack.
Highball V5 with pads and spotters. climb the bold wall to the good break. Sounds easy
73 to
74 the75right76 to 77 78 79 80 flake181
71 72the arête
182 183
185
190
184
186 187 188 189
6m From the crack climb up rightwards into the
270
Wall Buttress – Gardom’s Edge
131 132 133 134 135 26136 137 138 139 140
26
25
25
28
24
22
141 142 143 144 22 145 24146 147 148 149 150
ward exit left. There might be some hidden holds.
79 80
73 top.
75 runner
76 77 the78groove
72 the
74 A low
8m From the marked footholds follow the blind71 below
81 82 in 83
84 85stops86 an 87 88 89
2
flake and good holds to the top.
unsuccessful leader falling to the bottom of the crag. 1
81 82 83 84 85 8186 8287 8388 84 89 85 90 86 87 88 89
11 12
20 The Backclip HS 4b
traditional
27 Boon’s Wad E2 6a mid-1990s
84 85crack86and 87bulge88 to89the right.
82 The
83 curved
6m The crack itself with some good holds on81 7m
A
90
91 92 93 94 95 96
97 11 98 12
99
either side of the face.
boulder problem without a landing.
21 Stern Face S 4b
1
121 12
122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
142 143 23 144 145
11
111
126 127 128 129 130
131 132 133 134 135
29 30
39 jamming
40
those
tech34 35 36 37 38 39 40
a 39
reason
to
do
them.
37 V3540 36 up the
38 39 40
32 to 33
Climb up a flaky31corner
a tree.
34 Continue
62
18 Ball-Bearing Wall HS 4b
90
26 27 28
23 24 25
24 Tree Climb21 S 4b22 23
37 38
36 to practise
13m 34
Two35climbs
niques, well
there’s got to be
33
34 35 36 37 38
14
next routes
the58 midway
51 56from
52 57 53
5459 55
56 57 58 59 60
60 ledge,
51 52The 53
54 55start
gained by the ramp start of By-Pass Route,
52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60
51 can
although
53 scrappy
51 52
54 55starts
56 57be added.
58 59 60
0
90
13
117
20
crack to the right, with a tricky overhanging exit.
61
80
17 18 19 15 20 16
12
chimney in the left-hand wall with help from
42 43shaped
48 49 50 46 47 48 49 50
41 47
46
42 touch
43
44 (4c
45 if you
44it!?).45a Tree Neighthe tree
don’t
bour, S 4b (1950),
from
the ledge
takes
48
50 the wide
41
46
44
47
45
42 43
42 43 4449 45 46 47 48 49 50
20
0
16
11
41
21
18
15
32
60
0
14
31
41
17
13
33
34
35
36
37
39
Froggatt to Black Rocks 271
38
04/02/2010 16:48:21
191
191
112 113111 114 112115 113 116114 117115 118 116119 117120 118 119 120
111 112 113111 114 112115 113 116114 117115 118116119 117120 118 119 120
111
Gardom’s Edge – Capillary Crack
46
46
42
42
45
45
50
50
49
49
48
48
a
a 41
41
60
43
44
44
43
47
45
47
37 Quandary Wall HVD 4a
1963
12m The weakness in the right-hand wall to the
blocky heathery ledges. Fight your way up to the
clean arête and finish in a fine position.
70
80
80
90
90
100
100
38 Red Sky Rib HD «
pre-1950
16m The long slabby rib and short wide crack.
39 Split Slab VS 4c
45
16m The slab, overlap, some well-needed small
cams and the rounded pocketed wall. Delightful.
About 50m further on is a lovely picnic spot in a
small quarried bay. Below this lies a small buttress:
40 Chunky Doorstep HVS 5a «
1992
8m The rounded right arête A short flake/crack
provides a VD problem to the right. The undercut
wall and ramp on the far left gives a scary V4 (6a).
110
Capillary Crack Buttress
110
Forty metres to the south, across an area of tracks
and old quarry workings is a fine buttress. On its
left-hand side is a fine gang of boulder problems:
e
43 Neutral Milk Hotel V2 (6a)
Behind the oak tree, climb the arête on its left and
the wall above.
Slap up the right side of the arête. Shuffle right
along the sloping shelf until it is possible to mantel
for the break and top.
45 It’s a Gas E1 5c
8m Start as for
1990
Jumping Jack Flash and traverse
leftwards along the break to the left-hand arête.
From the shelf, finish up the wall above via a shallow scoop.
46 Jumping Jack Flash HVS 5b
47 Broken Buttress VD
181
191
191
182 183181 184 182185 183 186184 187185 188186189 187190 188 189 190
182 183181 184 182185183186184 187185 188186189 187190 188 189 190
192 193191 194 192195 193 196194 197195 198196199 197200 198 199 200
191
192 193 194 192195193196194 197195 198196199 197200 198 199 200
pre-1950
12m The chimney to the right with a squeeze move
48 Ladder Coins V3 (6b)
181
long reach gains a cramped ledge and the hanging
crack. From here a series of hard laybacks and finger
locks will reward the persistent.
42 Squeeze Your Lemon E1 6a
1986
9m The hanging zigzag crack. a A great addition,
272
152 153151 154 152155 153 156154 157155 158156159 157160 158 159 160
151 152 153151 154 152155153156154 157155 158156159 157160 158 159 160
161 162 163161 164 162165 163 166164 167165 168166169 167170 168 169 170
161 162 163161 164 162165163166164 167165 168166169 167170 168 169 170
171 172 173171 174 172175 173 176174 177175 178176179 177180 178 179 180
171 172 173171 174 172175 173176174 177175 178176179 177180 178 179 180
1977
at half-height. Finish at the ledge or step back right
and continue to the top.
A Fearful Orange, V5 (6b) gives a low start on a
141 142 143141144 142145 143 146144 147145 148146149 147150 148 149 150
149 150
144
141 142 143141144 142145143146 147145 148146149 147150 148
9m A toughie. Step in left and a dynamic move or
41 Soloman V3 (6a)
The left arête from a sit start.
e
lovely triangular sloper and adds quite a bit of extra
climbing, move left to finish.
44 Two-Headed Boy V5 (6b)
1971
131 132 133131134 132135 133 136134 137135 138136139 137140 138 139 140
139 140
131 132 133131134 132135133136134 137135 138136139 137140 138
151
60
0
121 122 123121124 122125 123 126124 127125 128126129 127130 128 129 130
129 130
121 122 123121124 122125123126124 127125 128126129 127130 128
A nice wall problem on edges just left of the groove
to the ledge. Escape up or down the next route.
In recent years the scattering of blocks and buttresses along and below Gardom’s Edge have been explored to
give a circuit as good as any grit crag, with an extra exploratory air still hanging over them. Xxxx Xxx on one
of the sweetest of these, Two-Headed Boy,V5 (opposite page). Photo: Jon Fullwood.
273
04/02/2010 16:48:24
111
112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120
121 122 123 124 125
Gardom’s Edge – Grooved Wall
126 127 128 129 130
122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
56 Tree Groove VS 4b «
1934
12m
climbing
up the136
next137
groove
a
131 Pleasant
134 135
138leads
132 133
139 to140
Gardom’s
Grooved Wall
Area –– Gardom’s
Gardom’s Edge
Crag
121
51
a
d
c
52
60
58
0
0
54
0
b
55
56
57
53
80
80
90
90
49 Gamorilla VS 5a
10m Start up the groove and mantel left to gain a
small ledge, a breather and a hanging corner. Now
all that’s left is that corner and the centre of the overhang.
50 Capillary Crack VS 4b «
100
100
110
110
e
1981
1951
52 Waterloo Sunset E3 5c ««
1977
18m The last of the fine E3’s to be sampled at Gardom’s. Exciting, bold and balancy. Start on the right
of the arête and climb to the break and good protection. Take a deep breath and follow the arête which
eventually leads to easier ground.
8m Step off the block onto the rib and climb the
finger-crack. Finish over the overhang on the right
using a good jug. a The blunt rib on the right is
First Blood, V0 (5b) a short problem on fingery
holds. b The flake right again is V0– (4b).
b Below and left, the low wall offers some bouldering, most notably the crack on the right at
V0– (4b).
Grooved Wall
arête on jams, pinches and layaways.
Opposite Capillary Crack across the grassy gully is
a fine arête marking the start of a fine wall. Starting
down at the foot of the crag just left of the start of
Waterloo Sunset is a green groove;
51 Whisky Wall S «
pre-1950
12m Climb the green groove to a large terrace. An
unprotected traverse rightwards fortunately leads to
some good holds and a fine arête. a The slab between Whisky Wall and Waterloo Sunset is Muswell
Hillbillies, E4 5c (1986), and climbs the centre of
the slab directly.
274
53 Finale Groove VS 5a «
“Several members of the Oread MC were
spread-eagled in various undignified attitudes
tree. Either move rightwards to the narrow chimney
140 all over Apple Buttress. The Duke of Devon136 continue
133 of134
135 and
or 131
make132
full use
the tree
the 4c
137 138up 139
wall. d Finishing left into Central Groove gives the
shire choose this moment to stroll along the
easiest
line on
at HS1474b.148 149 150
141 142
143the144main145wall146
footpath with his gamekeeper. After gazing in
150
145 VS146
142 143 144
141 Right-Hand
57
Groove
5a 147 148 149 1934
silence for a few moments he was overheard to
10m The innocuous-looking groove is harder than
155
160
it151
looks 152
whereas
exiting
the
sentry-box
is
not
as
hard
157
154
remark: “Hm, rock climbers – doing no harm,
158 159
153
156
as it appears.
151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 doing no harm”. Within a few weeks this
kindly landlord was dead. It became a saying
58 Split Crack VS 4b
pre-1985
162 again
161 Right
165 crack.
170
167 168it to169
163 is164another
166 Climb
8m
a roof
among the Oread members who were present
and move rightwards to climb a crack in the bulge
161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 that day that “We climb on Gardom’s Edge
to the top. e The last crack of the wall is Slanting
Groove
f Directly below,
a rib with
172 (pre-1957).
171 , D,
173 174 175
176 177 178 179 180 with The Duke’s kindly permission.’ ”
a central cleft start gives a pair of fun HD climbs
High Peak
branching
and right.
171 172left173
174 175 176 177 178 179 180
Hazel
focused on185
in hand – the big upper
182 183
181Robinson
190 fissure of N.M.C. Crack,VD (overleaf). This is one of
187with188a fine
184 the jobedge,
189sylvan
the best routes of its grade on the186
ambiance and blockbusting line. Photo: Nick Smith.
181
182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
191
192 193 194 195
191
192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200
196 197 198 199 200
1951
16m Climb the first bulging crack to the right of the
54 Babylon’s Groove VS 4c
1951
15m Follow the right-hand crack to a small roof.
Step right and mantelshelf to a crack just left of the
chimney. Either finish up the crack or the chimney.
c It is possible to link the start of Babylon’s Groove
with the top of Finale Groove (5a); contrived.
55 Central Groove VS 4c
1934
15m The next groove is harder than it looks but at
least there is a great big chicken head for recompense. The upper chimney is much easier by comparison.
275
04/02/2010 16:48:26
111 112 113
112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120
111
63
64
66
62
a
61
b
63
65
a
63
Apple Buttress
This has some of the best lower and mid-grade
climbs in the area, gets lots of sun and is reliably
very clean and quick drying. On the far left, and
well up the bank, is a steep, straight crack:
75 64 Apple Crack HD «
59 Layback Crack VS 5a «
1950
7m Quite tough for the grade. The strenuous crack
where jamming is allegedly sinful.
60 Flake Crack HS 4b «
1934
11m The steep, wider, right-hand crack has an awkward bulging move.
66
61 Twilight’s Last Gleaming E2 5b
1989
20m Climb straight up the slab passing a small
ledge to a wide platform. Move leftwards and climb
the arête. Bold.
70
69
62 N.M.C. Crack VD «« 71
bold? The mark of a good route. Start up the wide
crack to the right of the arête, move leftwards at the
first break and follow the arête to the top. a Apple
Arête Direct, E3 5c (1980), is the bold and balancy
direct start up the lower arête (or from its left).
73
pre-1950
12m The prominent wide crack in the front of the
buttress leads to a large ledge just below the top.
b The slab and overlap between
75 Apple Crack and
Cider Apple is Cheeky Monkey, E2 6a (1997).
65 Cider Apple S 4a «
1950
18m Climb the right-hand arête and slab to the
ledge. Finish boldly up the right-hand edge of the
front of the final tower.
75
“In the early thirties Eric Byne and his
74
in the quarried bay right of Apple Buttress. Photo: John Coefield.
131 132 133 134 135
64
59 62
61
121
63
63
60
121 129122 130123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
126 127 128
130 number
126V6 (page
128 a 129
125 Bum,
126enough
128 129
122 130123
121
122 123
When124
once 125
just isn’t
Coefield
having124
his Double
fierce little
127 xxxx),
127 – Adam
121 122 123 124 125
Gardom’s Edge – Apple Buttress
63
114 115 116 117 118 119 120
131
131 139132 140133 134 135
136 137 138
136 137 138 139 140
139 140
132 133 134 135 136 137 138
131 132 133 134 135
66
136 137 138 139 140
141 142 143 144 145
141
150
146 147 148
141 149142 143 144 145
142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
151
152 153 154 155
151
152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160
161
162 163 164 165
146 147 148 149 150
142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
141
156 157 158 159 160
151
152 153 154 155
151
152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160
156 157 158 159 160
166 167 168 169 170
b161 162
161 162
65 164 165 166 167 168 169 170163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170
163
171 172 173 174 175 176 177 161
162 180163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170
178 179
171 172 173 174 175 176 177 171
178 179172180173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
171
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
181
182 183 184 185
181
182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
181 182 183 184 185
191
192 193 194 195
191
192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200
186 187 188 189 190
186 187 188 189 190
181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
196 197 198 199 200
191
192 193 194 195
191
192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200
196 197 198 199 200
friend, Clifford Moyer, were cleaning out
75
the (Apple) crack when he found a lovely
68ing feel. A flake leads to a ledge then a corner to a apple which he ate. He discovered it had
wide platform. Finish up the tough slanting hand74
73
69 70 been left there
crack: see photo on page XXX.
72 a lady whom he met
71 by
later and eventually married!”
63 Apple Arête VS 4b «««
1952
18m The67
classic VS of the crag
68 with good gear and The Peak & Pennines, WA Poucher
72
1930
18m The fine wide crack-line with a mountaineer-
the moves aren’t that hard so why does it feel so
276
277
04/02/2010 16:48:29
Gardom’s Edge – Apple Buttress
171
172 173 174 175
171
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
181
then the flake-crack above.
66
72 Cider VS 5a « 191
192 193 194 1950
195
9m More delightful balance and technique. The
75
70
67
71
72
73
74
c.1931
14m The obvious large steps lead with increasing
difficulty to the ledge. Gain the top using the short,
difficult crack behind.
with an on/off move to gain the break from where
things ease. Other variations have been claimed.
69 Velvet Cracks HS 4b
1963
8m The twin thin cracks with no cheat start using
To the right is an awkward way down. Just past
this is a thin crack in the slab:
its neighbour.
67 Bitter VS 5a «
9m The two well-polished cracks in the centre of
pre-1970
70 Apple Jack Crack VD
pre-1950
6m Ascend the crack with the help of a small spike
and a gymnastic move.
the slab. A start from the far right is also possible
along a slippery traverse.
68 Master of Thought E2 6a «
The next two routes provide lovely balancy and
technical climbing on the slab to easier finishes.
1979
8m This bold slab gives technical fingery climbing
77 Orchard E1 5a
1953
197 is 198
70m
probably
best of the girdle traverses.
199 the200
196 This
From Layback Crack, move rightwards and continue
arête and slab to the right191
leads to192
a steeper
194above.
193 wall
195
A 5b variation start is possible by laybacking the flake
in the left-hand corner of the pit to the right.
199 to 200
Apple 198
Buttress
cross the delicate slab level
round 197
196
73 Double Bum V6 (6c)
To the right of Blenheim is a large tree-filled bay. a
Wall and Chimney, HVD (pre-1950) follows the
Climb the back wall of the pit by launching from
the chip to the horizontal pinch, then slopers to a
ledge. A shamelessly contrived eliminate, but one
very cool move: see photo on page xxx. Using the flake
is a little easier.
68
66 Giant’s Staircase HVD 4a «
Apple Area – Gardom’s Edge
182 183 184 185
186 187 188 189 190
71 Cydrax HVS 5b «
1957
same poor runner. Make hard and precarious moves
9m Good balance, nerve
technique
181and 182
189 190on the right. One more
184allow
186gain a yellow
188 foot-ledge
183 will
185 to
you to climb the centre of the slab to the right and reachy 187
move brings good holds and an easier finish.
75
69
176 177 178 179 180
74 Blenheim Gully HS 4b
1950
75 Blenheim Buttress HVS 5a «
1950
12m The undercut right-hand corner of the pit
with an awkward, undercut start leads to a crack
and a small corner. Finish up the wall on the right.
with the spike on Bitter. Finish up the final section
of Blenheim.
slabby left hand arête and V-groove.
78 Beaufort HVS 5b
1956
10m The left-hand flake of the ‘shield’ leads to a
large hole and an unique reclining move to gain
the flake. Gear (small cams) and one more stiff pull
leads to a flat hold and the finish. b The slot
behind the three trees situated close together near its
right-hand corner is surprisingly called Three Trees
Crack, VD (pre-1950).
Gardom’s was one of the Peak’s most important
sources of millstones, particularly domed ones. The
quarrying spanned over several centuries. Both
face quarries cut into the scarp and boulders below
the edge and large pits (delves) were worked.
Running from both the face and the delves below is
a complex system of access cart tracks. There are
also 3 or 4 millstone-rolling (a practice not to be
76 Blenheim E1 5b ««
1956
recommended!) tracks which descend from below
13m Up the front of the block to the ledge and the
the edge to the cart tracks.
14m Do you swing? No, not a 70’s chat up line but
a scary old (sand)bag. Step onto the block from its
right to a ledge and a poor runner behind a creaky
flake. This ‘protects!’ the first bold swing back in to
Blenheim Gully. A few moves up this and a large
cam protects the second wild swing rightwards on
good hand holds to the arête and a brisk finish.
Pillar Wall 150m
Capiliary Crack
278
Grooved Wall
Apple Buttress
The Quarries
Dirty Business
279
04/02/2010 16:48:33
0
83
84
85
11 12
90
86
87 88 89
12
11
90
13 14
13
15
14
15
111
16
16
20
17 18 19
121 122 123 124 125
97
98 99 80100
93
97
98 99 100
94
96
95
79
21
103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
31
103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
9 60
D
D
70
DD
131 132 133 134 135
22
81
32
D
23 24
25
33 34
35
84
41
a
43
e
a b c d e
a b 79 c d
79 80
29 30
37 38
39 40
36
141 142 143 144 145
48
45
50
49
4685 47
82
51
5283 53
e
61
80 81
62
63
54
64
86
55
65
89
56
66
57 88
58 59 60
87
67 68 69 70
c90d e f g h
Quarries
h
b c d e f g The
9b c 90
d e fgh
h the right an old quarry track initially runs genb c d e f g To
h uphill and then down a slope. Above are a few
b c d e f gtly
8m Starting from the mound are two thin cracks;
the left-hand one leads to a ledge and an upper crack
which
73 provides a very
76 good77finish.
78
99 100
To the right is a felled oak; the next
two routes
74 75 76 77 78 79 80
start here:
99 100
109 110
109 110
79 President’s Arête VS 4c «
1950
10m Enter the awkward groove in the arête at the
e
d
obscure problems. One hundred metres from the
previous route is a quarried wall which has a grassy
71 tree72
mound to the left of its centre and a large felled
at the right-hand end. The routes in this vicinity
81 are82
may take some time to dry after wet weather but
well worth it if you find them in good condition.
e
e
e
82 Senator’s Crack HVS 5a «
1961
83 Nervous
84 85Tension E4 6b
83
90
1984
8m Climb the steep wall and thin crack left of the
86(runner).
tree stump to the roof
Move89leftwards and
87 88
climb over the roof at its widest point. Finish with
caution. The route can be started directly, 6b.
left-hand end of the wall to85reach the first ledge.
94 95 96
97 98 99 100 1984
Move left round the arête and finish up the side 84 Surface Tension E4 6a
wall. a Just left, Ross’s Route, D (1983), takes the 8m As for Nervous Tension to the roof, step right98 99 100wall.
93 and climb
91 92 wards
96 up97the overhanging
95 directly
blocky gully, tree and ledges to the top.
89
86
88
80 All the President’s Men E1 5b «
87 101
the right
President’s
102 About
103 30m
104 to105
106 of 107
109 is110a small
108 Wall
2006
President’s Arête to the first ledge.
secluded bay with two steep corners. The left-hand
Leave it, the last of the gear, and any reservations
loose and
(thankfully)
103 is104very 105
101 102 corner
106 is 107
108 109unclimbed,
110
you might have, and continue up the wall on good the right-hand one gives the well-named:
flat holds.
10m Start as for
81 President’s Wall HVS 5a «
15m Start up
85 Hide-Away Climb VS 4c 1949
President’s Arête and traverse right-
wards making a series of steps to finish up a short
corner. b It’s possible to gain the final corner direct,
strenuously up some flake cracks at, E2 5b.
280
1963
7m The steep green corner crack is surprisingly
D although
D Dthe exit can be dirty.
good,
D86DDirty BusinessD Left-Hand
V3 (6b)
Climb the usually a
green left-side
c dof thee left arête.
b
a b c d
e
a b c d e
a b c d
e
191
192 193 194 195
191
192 193 194 195 Pillar
199 200
196 Wall
198Gardom’s
197 –
136 137 138 139 140
196 197 198 199 200
Edge
132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140
131
b
a b c d e
a b c d
26 27 28
43
44
42
D
126 127 128 129 130
122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130
121
Gardom’s Edge – The Quarries
93 94 95 96
117
146 147 148 149 150
141
142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
151
152 153 154 155
151
152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160
161
162 163 164 165
161
171
162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
171
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
156 157 158 159 160
166 167 168 169 170
94
181
182 183 184 185
181
182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
191
191
186 187 188 189 190
90
87 Dirty Business / Plan D V3 (6b) / V9 (7a)
Climb the steep side of the arête from a sit start,
192 with
200 big holds on the
198 the
193 194
199 two
196 197(V9)
(V3)195or without
next
climb.
The
stand
start
is
a
bit
192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200easier for the V9
and a lot easier for the V3. Padding on the tree is
recommended.
88 Business as Usual V6 (6b)
Once an E5 with a small cam, now a popular highball. Jump for the big hold in the middle of the face,
climb direct via the break and ramp to a ‘heart-inmouth’ mantel onto the slabby top. Avoiding the
jump start by means of a powerful undercut move
bumps up the grade to V8/9 (7a).
91
93
92
upwards. The central line, exploding to the top using the bowling-ball pockets, is very next century.
91 Left-Hand Pillar Crack E1 5b ««
1956
8m The leaning crack will leave you spent. Furious
laybacking may or may not reward you with the top.
92 Right-Hand Pillar Crack HVS 5a «
1930
9m Prepare to be humiliated. Using arms and legs
and any other spare appendages thrutch your way
up the crack.
93 Elliott’s Crack S 4a ««
pre-1950
10m Fine climbing up the crack and flake system
The right arête taken on its right. Lanking past the
first (crux) move is definitely not cricket.
on the right-hand side of the wall to a ledge, finish
left. a Headless Chicken, E1 5c (1985), starts up
Elliott’s Crack and after 5m trends left to finish up
Left-Hand Pillar Crack.
Pillar Wall
94 English Voodoo V6 (6b)
89 Forward Thinking Sound Engineer V7 (6c)
The next rocks of note lie 160m further to the
south, about 100m from a high stone wall that
crosses the path. This is one of the essential Gardom’s buttresses.
90 Charlotte Rampling E6 6b
1984
10m The beautiful wall and ramp don’t give the
climb they promise. Gain the ramp and follow it
leftwards, almost to the arête, before moving
The prow/arête on the block beneath Charlotte
Rampling. Climbed mostly on its left avoiding the
crack. a The sitting start is a stiff V8 (6c).
Gun Emplacements – if you look carefully
on the top of Gardom’s Edge you may find the footings of heavy gun emplacements used for training
between 1939 and 1945. Gibbet Moor, behind Chatsworth, was often targeted and unexploded shells can
still be found in the peat.
281
04/02/2010 16:48:37
2
1
11 12
13 14
Gardom’s Edge – South Boulders
15
17
16
111
18 19 20
South Boulders – Gardom’s Edge
to B
to Gardom’s Crag
Gardom’s South
Boulders
111
8
5
4
3
Byne22
21Eric
Campsite
23
24
25
Moorside Rocks
32
31
33
34 35
33 34 35
32
31
41 42
43
Gardom’s South
End
121
irch
25
0
en
26 27 28 29 30
Robin Hood Inn P
26 27 28 29 30
N
100m
36
37 38 39
36
37 38
40
39 40
A619
stile
h
to C
ield
gated
track
91
101
1
The Rocky Jumble
2
3
4 101
92 93
94
95
96
97
98 99 100
100 Area
97 98 99 G-Thang
Tangarine Area
102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
The Wardrobe
25m
102 103 0104 105 106
107 108 109 110
5
D
282
D
1
141
b
141
16
12
11
10
7
8
14
9
16
16
The Main Area
The main bouldering section lies now 60m to the
right. The tall block, home of Suavito is a good
landmark. Behind this is a bulbous series of outcrops, the Gardom’s Crack area. The other main bit
here, around G-Thang, is 30m to the right of this.
6 First Slab V0 (5a)
The short slab and overlap at the left. a Across to the
right the slab is Severe. b Down and right, bridging
the cleft, with a difficult pull onto the wall above is
Durian, S 4c (trad).
19
7 Small Ones are More Juicy V4 (E2 6b)
17
The highball line linking the pockets over the
bulge. 18
8 Tangerine VS 4c «
1963
7m The fine crack is a jammy gem. Finish left on
great holds.
9 Kumquat HS 4c
1
10 Arête V3 (6a)
1991
7m From the big diagonal crack, use the seam and
pockets to gain the ledge. The cleft to the right, finishing outside the chockstone, is Diff.
Climb the arête direct on slopers. Using the arête to
the left is V0 (5a).
11 Wall Past The Flatty V1 (5c)
A quick move to the right of the arête.
12 Strapadictionary V0– (4b)
From the ledge, swing right onto the front face.
13 Forge Ahead V2 (5c)
Yank directly over the nose and into the scoop.
14 Scoop Tower V0– (HS 5a)
Swing left onto the ledge, then tread delicately into
the scoop above.
15 The Mellow Bellow V2 (E1 5c)
An exciting series of pulls up the right side of the
arête. a Just to the right, The Scoop V2 (5c), starts
in the low break, and uses a footlock to gain the next
break. A stretching top-out is possible at E1 5c.
b The wide chimney is an awkward VDiff.
16 The Sausage King of Meersbrook V10 (7a)
To say the landing was bad would be to imply that
there actually was one. The short arête to the right
has brilliant moves, but some intense padding is required to sanitise the boulders below.
a b c d e
a b c d
e
151
15
13
On the wee overlapped wall in front, and facing
Small Ones...
D
6
15
a
On the left side of the wall, use a high sidepull to
This is the southern end of41Gardom’s
crag, 44
with 45 gain46the top.
47 48 49 50
42 43
its tidy little bouldering circuit and the gem that is
Moorside Rocks. There’s a lot of bouldering devel- Thirty metres right is a pit, a tree and a tall wall
9 from tiny, easy problems51up to52towering
containing
a couple
yet unclimbed
lines.
oped here,
60
57 of58 as 59
53 54
55 56
V11 highballs. It has a secretive, private nature to it, Below, closer to the path, is a larger, triangular slab.
and has a proudly esoteric air. Some51problems
52 are
53 a 54 55 56 57 58 59 60
bit highball, and a few of the easier ones are almost 2 The Teacup V0– (4b)
Pull over the left side of the undercut slab using a
micro-routes.
61 62 63 64pocket.
65 66 67 68 69 70
Approach: From the Robin Hood Inn, go back
66 67 V0 68(5a) 69 70
The Saucerer
onto the busy road, and a little bit61 past62the Eric
63 643 65
Byne Campsite entrance. A footpath sign leads you Pull over the slab to the right, linking the pockets.
across the wall. Follow the path, and the mirage of
4 Slob
Moorside Rocks soon rises up to meet71you. 72
The rest
73 74
75 V376 (6a) 77 78 79 80
of the circuit is over the wall, 80m beyond these. Slap along the rising right arête from a sitter. A
much harder problem is possible just left, going
Approach takes 15 minutes.
74 a 75
71 72 73 from
small 76
flake. 77 78 79 80
The Rocky Jumble: The leftmost section has a small
5 The
scattering of problems on the scree of blocks
83 84
81 82beyond
86 V387(6a) 88 89 90
85 Wing
the main circuit. These aren’t anything special, but Just below, is an angular cornered boulder. Climb
the right
crimps.
help to make the little circuit a bit more
85 wall86of the87corner
82 83 84
81 extensive.
88 on89small 90
The first problem is on a boulder, just below the left
end of a small quarried outcrop on the edge above, Twenty metres right are a couple more brushed
boulders with some unappealing possibilities.
100m from the Gardom’s Crack area.91
small quarried outcrop
13
a
rf
este
48 V249 (6a)50
47 Wall
44 45 1 46Sidepull
92 93 94 95 96
121
283
04/02/2010 16:48:48
1
60
81
82 83 84
91
92 93 94 95 96
85
86
70
e
70
Gardom’s Edge – South Boulders
90
17
31
A beaut. The angular, overhanging arête with slappy, powerful climbing and a wild swing to gain the
top. Spotters advised.
28 G-Thang V3 (6a)
The lovely groove on the right side of the boulder. A
little easier if the arête is used. The sit start is V5.
20 Scary Rib V2 (5c)
32
35
a
21
284
22
23
24
25
151
151
27
28
29
30
161
161
2003
30 The Sting V1 (5c)
37 Brazil E6 6b «
Moorside Rocks
side from the ledge to the obligatory slopey finale.
Technical but easy for the grade.
8m Climb the arête of the wall with the assistance
2000
8m Climb Homeless’ blunt arête on its right-hand
38 Moorside Crack VS 5a
The big bulbous blobs over the wall to the right.
The routes are short but the rock is excellent and the
setting very pleasant, perhaps a spot to find seclu115 known
117Cat118Tor. 119 120
114 Also
112 113 sion.
116 as
trick moves.
114 Short
V4 (6b)
116 117
118 119 120
115 Arête
112 113 31
8m The reachy side-wall has a bold, rounded finish.
The slappy arête.
1949-50
7m A good traditional pitch. The boulder-filled
124 125has126
122 123 chimney
a hard127
start.128 129 130
1986
10m Move out rightwards from the start of Choked
140 a bold high
134 135and136
132 133 Chimney
use the
137 rail138and139make
rockover. Highball V3. A tiny hold in the middle
141
36 Homeless E8 6c «
of the central groove via dynamic and sustained
moves to a desperate finishing mantel.
wall below
possibility
for an awesome
141 142 143 of144the 145
147 a148
149 150
146 give
26
b
42
Slap off two small slopers to the top. a The problem
just left, across the gap, using a natural thread, is a
great little V1 (5b).
125 126
121 122 123 32
127 128VD 4a129 130
124 Choked
Chimney
131
41
36
The arête right, using a queer, undercut hole.
121
a
39
40
29 Stung V1 (5c)
135 136Dumpling
131 132 133 33134 Charlotte
137 138E3 5c139«140
On the next block to the right:
The delicate rib round to the back of the block.
196 197 198 199 200
34
Boy racers will prefer the more powerful and brutal 111
direct, with a butt-plug-popping move off undercuts to gain the aforementioned sloper. More like 111
V10 for the short.
19 Suavito V8 (E5 6c)
37
a b c d e
27 Barry Sheene V9 (7a)
Use pockets to gain the rib, then pull left onto the
ramp.
186 187 188 189 190
192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 38
D
A delicate thing of great beauty. Start, bridged between the boulders on the left, facing out. Pirouette
dreamily to gain the sloping rail out right, and finish
direct: see photo on page xxx.
18 Wardrobe Ridge V3 (6b)
33
191
D
h a start in the break
b c dClimb
e f gfrom
The rambling ridge.
bc d e fgh
below at V3 (6a).
abc d e fgh
b c Hands
d e f gV8h (6c)
26 China inayour
From a sitting start, gain the bulge and continue
laybacking up the right side of the ridge, with an exciting top. Busting directly over the first bulge from
the same start is Wardrobe Bulge, V3 (6b).
182 183 184 185
22 Left Crack V0– (4a)
b c dRidge
e f gV2h (5c)
25 Middle Triplet
17 Captain Cabinets V4 (6b)
181
Moorside Rocks – Gardom’s Edge
192 193 194 195
a b c d e
A nice climb up the centre of the face on ripples.
the size, shape and quality of a fine gentleman’s
wardrobe, hangs one of the Peak’s best highballs.
The descent is Leaning Block, M (pre-1950).
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
191
24 Middle Wall V0 (5a)
The Wardrobe: Just below, in a tall, jutting block,
171
176 177 178 179 180
103 slab
The steep101
arête.102a The
the right,
104to 105
106 Left
107 Triplet
108 109 110
Slab, is V0 (5a).
The tall arête.
18
172 173 174 175
182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190
23 Middle Triplet Arête V2 (5c)
100
191
171
181
D
19
90
110
98 99 100
21 Left Triplet Arête V1 (5b)
80
110
97
167
90
91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100
G-Thang Area: Further right is another outcrop.
101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110
80
100
87 88 89
direct.
1949-50
6m The widening and leaning crack requires some
39 Press Gang E3 5c 2003
40 Moorside Rib VS 5a
1963
7m The front face of the rib. Bold and tricky.
41 The Jackalope V6 (6b)
A highball classic of the grade, climbing the steep,
rounded flare on the front of the block. Insecure and
bold, but okay with a spotter. a A fist-crack to the
left is a brilliant V0 (5a).
42 Small Worlds E3 6a 2002
6m Starting under the nose, boulder up to a good
142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150
34 Superbloc E8 7a «««
2003
The
arête
is
a
blockbusting
V12
highball,
with
152 153 8m
155
160
157 158 159
154
156 climbing,
powerful slappy
and a ground-up target
jug and gain the large break (big cams) and swing
left on to the front face. The tall might be able to
static up to finishing slopers at an easier grade but
the short have to jump. b The narrow chimney to
the right is Pillar Chimney, D (pre-1950).
Chimney
HVD 4a « 170
1949-50
162 163 35164 Straight
165 166
167 168
169
8m Meanwhile… the chimney to the right is a joywriggle.
162 163 ful164
165 166 167 168 169 170
A traverse of Moorside Buttress is Moorside Rocks
Girdle, HVS 5b (1957-1969). Very tricky under
Superboc and crossing Moorside Rib.
152 153 for154the area’s
156 boulderers.
155 best
157 158 159 160
171
172 173 174 175
171
172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180
176 177 178 179 180
285
04/02/2010 16:48:51
Gardom’s First Ascents
1890
Brown Crack, Garden Face Indirect James W
Puttrell, William J Watson Inevitably, Puttrell kicked things off.
1930
N.M.C. Crack, Right-Hand Pillar Crack Frank
Elliot The latter route is impressive being stiff at a modern
grade of HVS.
c.1931
Slime Crack, Garden Face Crack, Moyer’s
Climb, Green Crack, Giant’s Staircase Clifford Moyer, Eric
Byne
1934
Och Aye Wall Direct Jack Macleod Flake Crack
Rupert Brooks Overhang Buttress Ordinary Eric Byne Dead
Tree Wall, Elliott’s Buttress Frank Elliott Presumed to be
the Direct Central Groove, Right-Hand Groove, Tree
Groove Clifford Moyer, Eric Byne
c.1940
Right-Hand Crack Eric Byne, Ivy Byne
1949
Gardom’s Gate, Oread, Keith’s Corner Crack
Keith Axon President’s Wall Cyril Machin By the original
traverse. The Direct was added in the 1985 guide
1949-50
Choked Chimney, Straight Chimney, Moorside Crack Members of the Oread MC
1950
Blenheim Buttress David Penlington Cider David Penlington, Eric Byne, J Adderley
1950 Sept. 3 White’s Route, Cave Arête Wilfred White, Joe
Brown, Slim Sorell The upper section was added in 1942 by Eric
and Ivy Byne Gardom’s Unconquerable Joe Brown, Slim
Sorell, Wilfred Wright Layback Crack Wilfred White, Joe Brown,
Slim Sorell Née Apple Buttress Layback President’s Arête
Slim Sorell, Joe Brown, Nat Allen.
1950
Tree Neighbour, Blenheim Gully David Penlington, Eric Byne, J Adderley Cider Apple P Knapp, Eric Byne, S G
Moore Scoop Tower Keith Axon, Eric Byne, George Sutton Mark
Turnbull added the Direct start on Aug. 28 1991.
1951
Publication of “The Sheffield Area” guide including:
Portcullis, Turret Chimney, Drawbridge Slab, Dungeon
Gully, The Keep, The Watch Tower, Black Wall Route
1, Black Wall Route 2, Capstone Climb, Pillar Chimney,
Cave Gully Crack, Chockstone Climb, Garden Face Direct, Apple Jack Crack, Wall and Chimney, Three Trees
Crack, The Chimney, Chimney Face, Moyer’s Variation,
Grey Crack, Cave Gully, Och Aye Wall Indirect, Capstone
Gully, The Zigzag Girdle, Byne’s Crack, Pine Crack, Elliott’s Buttress Indirect, Blacksmith’s Wall, October
Climb, Milestone, Birthday Climb, Pedestal Climb, Leaning Block, Tree Buttress, Tree Climb, Stepped Crack,
By-Pass Route, Red Sky Rib, Broken Buttress, Whisky
Wall, Apple Crack, Elliott’s Crack, Yellow Chimney, Nursery Traverse and Tower Variation.
1951 Feb. 3 Allen’s Route J R (Nat) Allen, Don Chapman Un-
286
dertaker’s Buttress Joe Brown, Slim Sorrell March Corner
Crack Richard A Brown March 20 Tartan Route Richard A
Brown Finishing left into Och Aye Wall, Ernie Marshall did
the current route in 1956 June 14 Heather Wall Richard A
Brown, W Sellars, R Lowrey Sept. 7 Babylon’s Groove Don
Chapman, Nat Allen Sept. Whillans’ Blind Variant Don Whillans Capillary Crack (nèe Bronto Wall), Lightning Wall,
Third Time Lucky Nat Allen, Don Chapman Nat got it third go.
Finale Groove David Penlington, John Fisher
1952 June 6 Dead Tree Wall David Penlington A more direct
variation known as Jungle Corner Apple Arête Dave Penlington, Ernie Marshall, R Hardy
1953 Feb. Baton Route Ernie Marshall also called Marshall
Aid March 19 Route III Ernie Marshall, N Osbourne May 3
Jungle Arête Ernie Marshall, P G Titterton Also called Dead Tree
Arête Aug. Nowanda Ernie Marshall Sept. 20 Ball-Bearing
Wall, Bilberry Buttress Ernie Marshall The latter being a
new direct finish to an older route. Nov. 14 Orchard Ernie
Marshall, Eric Raynor.
1953 Landsick Peter Biven
1955 Sept. 7 Moyer’s Buttress Peter Biven, Trevor Peck A
much desired project first top-roped by Moyer and Byne in
1932. Biven’s Crack Peter Biven With much aid from slings
to facilitate cleaning. FFA 1966, Jack Street.
1956 April Traction, Contempt, Attraction, The Rink, Fantasy, Thunder Ernie Marshall Richard A Brown came close
to the latter route in 1951 being repulsed by ice near the top
Left-Hand Pillar Crack Allan Austin, Brian Evans
1956 Infirmary Groove, Tartan Route Ernie Marshall
Biven-Peck Connection (started with tension) No longer de-
scribed, this historical but flawed ascent wandered up the front
of Moyer’s Buttress after tackling the crux of Stormbringer.
1956
The Eye of Faith Peter Biven, Trevor Peck Probably
by the hard start
1956
Vaya Con Dios Allan Austin, Ernie Marshall, Brian
Evans Led without runners 25 years after the first top-rope by
Clifford Moyer and Eric Byne.
1956
Hearse Arête (with aid) Peter Biven, Trevor Peck,
Ernie Marshall Blenheim, Beaufort Don Morrison Wall Finish, Central Crack Joe Brown, Nat Allen.
Publication of “Further Developments” including The
1957
Rattle, Slanting Groove, Green Rib, Little Arête and Evasion
1957
Capstone Rib, Smithy, Cydrax, Striker’s Rib
Eric Finney, Peter Fieldsend
1959
Battlement Wall, Rampart Corner Les Millsom, Maurice Dunkley
1960 Promise Les Millsom, Maurice Dunkley
1961
Senator’s Crack Fred Williams
1962 Dec 24 Nymph’s Arête Ernie Marshall
Matthew Coutts on the rounded crux of John Allen’s Jackalope V6 (page xxx). Like many of Allen’s additions
from the 1980s, it is short, technical and brilliant, and as bouldering and highballing are becoming more popular,
his micro-routes are becoming some of the classic ticks of any crag. Photo: Niall Grimes.
04/02/2010 16:48:52
Gardom’s Edge – First Ascents
1963 Spring Marshall’s Route, Tangerine, Velvet Cracks,
Moorside Rib, Quandary Wall, Hide-Away Climb, Spring
Route Ernie Marshall, BB Hall, K Unwin
1970
Publication of “The Chatsworth Gritstone Area” including
Black Wall Traverse, North End Girdle, Moorside Rocks
Girdle, Nursery Slab and Bitter.
1971 Sept 12 Split Slab P Allen, G Millar
1975
Sleeping Sickness John Allen, Chris Addey The
Crocodile Gabe Regan
1976
Stormbringer Dave Morgan, Bill Briggs, Richard
Hasko The crux mantel was first done in 1956 on the BivenPeck Connection Solid Air (1 pt) Andy Parkin FFA in 1979
by Steve Bancroft and renamed Perfect Day Narcolepsy Ernie Marshall
1977
Waterloo Sunset Martin Boysen.
1977 April 17 Jumping Jack Flash Ron Kenyon, John Woodhouse,
Graham Hoey
c.1978
Tsetse Fly Mike Browell, Jeremy Frost
1979
Perfect Day Steve Bancroft Master of Thought
Gary Gibson
1980
Apple Arête Direct Gary Gibson (solo)
1981 April 5 Four Horsemen, Blaze Gary Gibson, Hazel Carnes;
Gamorilla Gary Gibson (solo).
1981 Aug. 21 Rhythmic Itch Gary Gibson, Hazel Carnes
1981 Spring Landsickness Ian Riddington
1981 Nov 13 Nerve Block Gary Gibson
1981 Social Fools Gary Gibson Seventy One White
Mice Gabriel Regan, Chris Addy, Steve Webster
1981
Publication of “Derwent Valley”
1983
Crottle Chris Jackson, Bob Conway, Adey Hubbard
1983
Boiling Oil Graham Parkes, Chris Craggs Roadside
Attraction Chris Craggs, Graham Parkes Enigma Variation,
The Midas Man, Scotswood Road Keith Sharples, Chris Craggs,
Graham Parkes, Ian Riddington
1983 Diamond Back Chris Craggs Colin’s Route,
Liar, Rumour, Ross’s Route Ross Cullen
1984 April 4 Raging Insomnia Keith Sharples, Graham Hoey, Ian
Riddington
1984 April Make it Snappy Neil Foster, Alan Rouse
1984
Nervous Tension, Surface Tension Gabriel
Regan, Peter Dean, Jed Storah
1984
Charlotte Rampling Johnny Dawes A nest of
turfs and ropes were placed on the landing to ease the nerves.
1985
Spanish Fly, Agadoo John Allen
1985
Sooty and Sweep Andy Barker Green Wall
Paul Pepperday Good Karma Matt Boyer, Paul Mitchell Headless Chicken Paul Mitchell
1985 Publication of Derwent Gritstone including, Keith’s
Other Corner Crack, Stern Face, Gossip and Split Crack.
288
First Ascents – Gardom’s Edge
1986 May 14 The Igloo John Allen, Mark Stokes Squeeze Your
Lemon John Allen
1986 Muswell Hillbillies, Charlotte Dumpling Steve
Bancroft, Mike Clarke
Tales of the Black Widower Simon Jones, James Hall
1988
1989 June 11 Twilight’s Last Gleaming J Zonn Coffin Nail
Kevin Topliss, Steve Wigmore
1990
It’s a Gas Tony Warwick Small People J Judson,
A Judson
1990
Mickey Finn Paul Mitchell
1991 Aug. 28 Small Ones are More Juicy Mark Turnbull, Andy
Ratcliffe Strapadictionary, Kumquat, Scoop Tower (direct) Mark Turnbull
1992 Feb Rest in Pieces, Chunky Doorstep David Simmonite
1994 April 24 Gom Jabbar Simon Jones
1994 Aug. 14 Cobweb Arête Tem Bevis, John Bates, Mike Shaw
1995 May 29 The Working Man David Simmonite, Roy Bennett
1995 SummerEcky Thump Andy Popp
1996 Aug. 4 Gnasher Simon Jones, W Bradwell
mid-1990s Boon’s Wad Leo Holding
1997 Mr Three Degrees Andy Crome (solo) Cheeky
Monkey Ellison Allcock
1998
Monotheism John Arran
1998 Aug. 21 Albert Spansworthy Mark Turnbull, Richard Heap,
Dave Thomas
1999 Sept 03 Little Wanda Brian Rossiter, Nigel Baker (both led)
2000 Oct. 1 Brazil Jon Read
2002 April 7 Waggy Pat King
2002 Sept. 1 Small Worlds Jon Read, Debora Field
2002 Oct 8 Pants on Fire, Central Overlap, Gemstone
Simon Triger, Steve Clark
2003 Feb. 1 Homeless Miles Gibson
2003 March 27 Boxing Clever Jonathon Box and party Press
Gang Paul Mitchell
2003
Superbloc Miles Gibson Second ascent by Dan
Bouldering First Ascents
8 Ball Ben Moon
A Fearful Orange Jon Fullwood
Barry Sheene John Welford
Ben’s Bulge Ben Moon
Bin Laden’s Cave Mo Overfield
Bin Lillemule Jamie Lillieman
Bloc Steno Simon Wilson
Business as Usual Mike Lea, 1989
Captain’s Cabinets Jon Fullwood
China in Your Hands Adam Long
Dirty Business/Plan D Rob Smith/Jon Fullwood
Double Bum Jon Fullwood
Drum Roll Paul Mitchell, 2002
English Voodoo Jon Fullwood
First Roof Right Rich Heap, Spanish Kev
Full Power Jerry Moffatt
G-Thang Al Williams
The Gritstone Treaty Pat King, 2002
Heartland Christian Klemmow
The Jackalope John Allen, 1985
Joint Care Andy Harris
Kidneystone Christian Klemmow
Kumquat Mark Turnbull, Andy Ratcliffe, 1991
Ladder Coins Jon Fullwood
Mo’s Problem Mo Overfield
Neil’s Roof Neil Kershaw
Neutral Milk Hotel Jon Fullwood
Percy’s Roof Percy Bishton, 1999
Perfect Day Direct Start Ben Moon
Pogle’s Wood Al Williams
Pogle’s Wood Sit Start Rich Heap
Rock Hard Bishop Johnny Dawes
The Sausage King of Meersbrook Iain Farrar
Small ones are More Juicy Mark Turnbull, Andy Ratcliffe, 1991
Strapadictionary Mark Turnbull, Andy Ratcliffe, 1991
Suavito Thomas De Gay, 2000
Soft on the G Al Williams
Soloman Pat King
Two-Headed Boy Jon Fullwood
Neil Kershaw learning not to push too hard on China in your Hands. He’s wearing a nice jumper, and a nice hat.
Photo: Adam Long.
varian in 2008, ground-up. Also climbed ground-up by Mick
Adams in 2009.
2006
All the President’s Men John Camateras, Noel
Camateras
2008 June 6 Black Wall Nothing Steve Clark, Lynn Robinson,
Chris FitzHugh
2009 Oct Imperfect Way
Jon Fullwood, Ben Heason
Climbed onsight.
Various traditional routes checked by the guidebook team and added
to this guide: Bilberry Chimneys, Durian; Flaky Chimney,
Gain, Garden Fence, Keith’s Arête, Nursery Cryme, Pining for the Fjords, Problem Chimney, Right Hand Flake,
The Backclip
289
04/02/2010 16:48:52

here

Transcription

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