December 2013 - Douglas Elliman

Issue 167 December 2013
luxury
briefing.
Beauty & wellbeing special:
Jo Loves, Tracie Martyn,
Qineticare, Cristiana Arcangeli,
One Hundred Years, Helios from
LVMH, new luxury launches...
Integrity, curiosity, craft,
elegance, prosperity:
the ingredients for a beautiful
business... nu-nutrition:
Soylent... luxury travellers
channel the YOLO spirit...
Georgia Fendley: luxury?
It’s getting personal
required reading
Luxury Briefing
Issue 167
retail propertY
retail propertY
lonDon
new YorK
O
ver the last few months a significant number of
transactions have taken place within Mayfair and
landlords in Knightsbridge are planning for the future.
On Mount Street there have been seven deals including
Kering brand Christopher Kane acquiring no 6-7 (Michael
Charalambous) for its first ever store. No 111-112 has been
leased to Moynat, one of the oldest French trunk makers
established in 1849. Gianvito Rossi has secured no 108,
and Creed is the successful party in acquiring no 99.
Nicholas Kirkwood, now part of LVMH, will launch his
men’s shoe collection from his boutique at no 109.
Roksanda Ilincic is on site at no 9 and Richard Mille
has leased no 90 (currently Mark Glenn). With this level
of activity and the scheduled opening of Celine at no 103,
anticipate even more interest in the street.
Within nearby Carlos place, opposite The Connaught,
Jessica McCormack (no 7) and Solange Azagury Partridge
(no 5) are now open. Kering Group is fitting out no 6 for the
House of Kering, scheduled to open in January 2014.
old and new Bond Street combined have also
experienced significant launches since the summer. Belstaff
(135-139 New Bond Street) Breitling (130 New Bond Street)
and Vacheron Constantin (37 Old Bond Street) have all
opened. Breguet is busy combining 10 and 10a New Bond
Street as its flagship house. At least a dozen other luxury
brands have disclosed store requirements for Bond Street
only. According to research conducted by London Luxury
Quarter, demand outstrips supply 10:1 in Bond Street and
Mount Street.
Each of the major luxury groups has been acquisitive
during 2013. LVMH has acquired three stores for Christian
Dior. Richemont appears focused upon opportunities within
Bond Street. Kering Group has acquired 6-7 Mount Street
for Christopher Kane and 6 Carlos Place. Swatch Group
has acquired 10-10a New Bond Street for Breguet and
rumours persist that it may be the new brand at 11 New Bond
Street where Moira quoted a staggering £6m for the lease.
(Somebody paid more...)
In Bruton Street, William & Son
has acquired the new development
at no 34-36 and also 1/13 Bruton
Place almost two years ahead
of completion, much to the
disappointment of Rag & Bone
and others. Rag & Bone has also
been seen scoping Albemarle
Street and Dover Street where
Amanda Wakeley (18 Albemarle
Street) and Paul Smith (9
Albemarle Street) have new stores.
Victoria Beckham has allegedly
acquired the former Orvis building
at 36a Dover Street.
In Conduit Street, the arrival
of Christian Dior (no 16) and John Varvatos (no 12-13) has no
doubt acted as a catalyst for Diesel Black Label (no 21) and
Martin Margiela MM6 (at no 6) to open on Conduit Street.
In Knightsbridge, The Knightsbridge Estate is busy
planning the redevelopment of 1/5 Sloane Street and
Brompton Road. The scaffolding has appeared and the
project will be live for 2016. This should make life interesting
in Sloane Street. Key money premiums range from £1m (paid
by H Stern at 6 Sloane Street) but anticipate an escalation
in these prices as various resident brands are directly or
indirectly affected by the development.
KEITH WILSON, WILSON MCHARDY
Tel: +44 (0)20 7439 1666
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Issue 167
Luxury Briefing
retail propertY
europe // MaDriD
O
O
n Madison Avenue, Searle will return to no 1051 with a new concept,
Alice nYC. Operating in a smaller space than before, it will feature
fashion and coats.
On Fifth Avenue, rent the runway has opened a showroom at Henri
Bendel (no 712). The online apparel rental company showcases designer
fashions and accessories, with shoppers booking items for four or eight days.
Appointments are needed both at the Bendel location and its first showroom
in SoHo.
On the Upper West Side, Hermès popped up with a diner-themed scarf
shop at 10 Columbus Circle. Montmartre, a women’s apparel boutique,
will add to its store count (others are in Williamsburg and Columbus Circle)
at 282 Columbus Avenue.
In Midtown, the shop and sup trend (see Tommy Bahama) is alive
and well: Brooks Brothers is entering the restaurant business, planning
steakhouse Makers and Merchants for a summer 2014 debut adjacent to its
Madison Avenue flagship at 44th Street.
In SoHo, roberto Cavalli has revived Just Cavalli, bringing the brand
to 434 West Broadway. Joe Fresh’s latest outpost (462 Broadway) spotlights
its runway collection. H&M’s COS brand will make its US debut at 129 Spring
Street, a location named by The Travel Channel as one of the most haunted
sites in the US as the result of a notorious murder nearby – in 1799!
Tribeca/Nolita/LES continues to see an influx of eclectic retailers who
might have looked at SoHo just a few years ago. Jeweler Anna Sheffield’s
first boutique will be at 47 Orchard Street. Claire Vivier opened her first
store in the city at 239 Elizabeth Street. Schott nYC offers motorcycle
jackets at 236 Elizabeth Street. Drummer-turned-haberdasher Gabriel Holl
opened his first menswear shop, Holl, at 188 Orchard Street. Figue offers
items from around the globe, including beaded jackets from India, ponchos
from Bolivia and Italian bags, at 268 Elizabeth Street.
In Fidi, Jonathan Adler’s first accessories store has opened at 37
Greenwich Street.
In Brooklyn, Caron Callahan showcases her apparel in a pop-up at
the Wythe Hotel (80 Wythe Street) through December 31. gant is bringing
its younger-skewing rugger line to two sites: 115 North Sixth Street in
Williamsburg and 357 Atlantic Avenue in Boerum Hill.
ver the last 12-18 months luxury brands have
continued to remain focused on Serrano rather
than Ortega y Gasset as their preferred luxury location
in Madrid. During 2012, Ortega y Gasset saw very little
market activity with only three new entries on the
street, despite the opening of Abercrombie & Fitch in
2011. The most significant entries included roberto
Cavalli, in the former Barclays Bank, and La perla.
Louis Vuitton is reportedly looking to relocate to
Serrano from Ortega y Gasset. This will cause a major
shift in focus towards Serrano being Madrid’s prime
luxury location.
During 2012, Serrano recovered its commercial
activity following a long period of construction works
on the street. Serrano 2, which lies at the junction
with Plaza Indipendencia, is currently under
construction to create a new development targeted
towards luxury brands.
In 2012, Serrano recorded 20 new signings, similar
to that of the previous year and significantly higher in
comparison to Ortega y Gasset. Major new brand
openings include Michael Kors at Serrano 32, BDBA
(Spanish fashion retailer) at Serrano 28, Armani at
Serrano 44 and tombolini (Italian fashion brand) at
Serrano 25. More recently, Brooks Brothers signed
Serrano 14 (former Alvarez Gomez), Coach has taken
the former D’Erre at Serrano 22 and Frey Wille has
also relocated adjacent to Coach at Serrano 20. Seven
for all Mankind has signed at Serrano 46. Meyer
Bergman acquired the Caixa building at Serrano
60 and will renovate it to accommodate retail space at
the lower levels.
During 2014 we will see many of the longeststanding retailers on the street close their doors
due to the end of the traditional rent control leases.
Generally these will be local independent businesses
that are unable to absorb the new rental levels defined
by the market.
There is still some uncertainty surrounding
the future of the Spanish economy. However some
luxury brands will see this as a time to take advantage
of the favourable market conditions.
New York news: mad about NoMad
Maserati sales on the up
As Luxury Briefing reported in LB164, Maserati announced an ambitious
plan to sell 50,000 cars per year by 2015 – a huge target for an auto-maker
that sold just 6,300 units in 2012. However, it seems the Italian brand may
have been quite accurate, racking up 22,500 orders for new cars as of the end
of September. Orders for the all-new Quattroporte and Ghibli models led the
demand, easily exceeding the car-maker’s existing sales record of 9,000 cars.
Referring to the 1.5 billion euros that parent Fiat Group plans to spend on the
brand in total between 2011 and 2014, Maserati’s CEO Harald Wester said,
“Our investment [in new models] is starting to pay off.” Part of Maserati’s plan
includes the launch of another new model, the Levante SUV, in 2015, with
plans to sell between 20,000-25,000 units per year.
Jaguar F-Type Coupe unveiled
The Jaguar F-Type Coupé has been unveiled at the Los Angeles Motor
Show – showcasing a design that closely mirrors the original C-X16 Concept
shown at the Frankfurt Motor Show in 2011. Promising greater practicality
from its 407-litre boot, the coupé offers a sharper drive when compared with
the convertible and is available with an optional panoramic roof. Buyers
can choose from a range of 335bhp V6, 375bhp V6S and 488bhp V8S petrol
engines, as well as the range-topping 542bhp F-Type R specification. Phil
Popham, group marketing director at Jaguar Land Rover, said, “The F-Type
Coupé provides its driver with a unique sports car experience. It combines
seductive design with cutting-edge technology and performance which is
truly breathtaking. Engaging, precise, intuitive and alive – it is the definitive
sports coupé.” News of Jaguar’s latest model comes shortly after Jaguar Land
Rover Automotive reported half-year pre-tax profits of more than £1bn for
the first time, helped by strong global demand for F-Type, Range Rover and
Range Rover Sport models. The Tata Motors-owned car-maker said that retail
sales surged 21% year-on-year, to 102,644 vehicles during the three months to
the end of September. Commenting on the results, CEO Dr Ralf Speth said:
“Our unrelenting focus on design, technology, innovation and quality has
seen Jaguar Land Rover reach global consumers in more markets than ever
before thanks to its most engaging product line-up.”
Porsche Macan SUV a tiger in the tank
Tasked with providing German luxury and sports car maker Porsche with an
offering to rival the Range Rover Evoque and BMW X3, the new Macan SUV has
been unveiled at this year’s Los Angles Motor Show. Named after an Indonesian
term for ‘tiger’, the Macan will be positioned below the Cayenne as Porsche’s
entry-level SUV. It will be available with
a choice of three V6 engines: the 285bhp
diesel S (capable of returning 46.3mpg),
a 335bhp petrol S and the powerful
394bhp turbo, which is capable of
0-62mph in just 4.8 seconds and a top
speed of 165mph. For the first time in a
new Porsche range, all models come as
standard with Porsche’s seven-speed
PDK dual-clutch gearbox. Standard
specification also includes off-road
mode complete with Porsche Hill Control and a Sport button that makes the
engine more responsive. Buyers looking for an even sportier driving experience
can opt for the Sport Chrono package, activated by an additional button in the
centre console. Inside, the Porsche Macan features a steering wheel that is very
similar to the 918 supercar’s, while boot space is a practical 1,500 litres with its
rear seats folded flat - 150 litres larger than the Evoque’s.
Aston Martin special edition
Short for North of Madison Square Park and considered by some to be a section of
Flatiron, this area is becoming a style destination for young professionals, as nearby
areas evolve into a high-tech headquarters. Most recently, Yeohlee Teng has
relocated from the Garment District to 12 West 29th Street. But she’s joining other
newcomers including Maison Kitsuné (which is inside the trendy NoMad Hotel at
1170 Broadway), Opening Ceremony at the Ace Hotel (20 West 29th Street) and
jeweler Iosselliani (4 West 29th Street).
FAITH HOPE CONSOLO, CHAIRMAN THE RETAIL GROUP
DOUGLAS ELLIMAN REAL ESTATE
Tel: 001 212 418 2000 e: [email protected]
autoluXe
ANDREW BATHURST, DIRECTOR
HARPER DENNIS HOBBs
Tel: +44 (0) 207 462 9100 e: [email protected]
British sports car-maker Aston Martin has been celebrating its role in the Lord
Mayor’s Show, one of the world’s oldest and most famous parades. A selection
of highly-regarded sports cars joined a three-and-a-half-mile-long cavalcade
at the invitation of The Worshipful Company of Coachmakers and Coach
Harness Makers of London, which selected the marque to participate in this,
the firm’s centenary year. Six of the company’s models were lead by a Vanquish
coupe that sported the Union Jack-inspired livery of the UK government’s
GREAT British campaign. Aston Martin global brand communications director
Janette Green said: “To see our sports cars taking part in such an historic and
famous event as The Lord Mayor’s Show is a special occasion for everyone
associated with Aston Martin.”
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