Lani Kai - Anacortes Yacht Charters

Transcription

Lani Kai - Anacortes Yacht Charters
&
Operation
Enjoyment
Manual
Lani Kai
Heavenly Seas
Welcome aboard!
In choosing the Lani Kai for your vacation,
you have selected a superb vessel for a
relaxing and fun experience.
The Lani Kai is a 2001 Symbol and as a
luxury yacht has virtually every possible
convenience and system—and in many cases
redundant equipment. All this equipment
makes the boat quite enjoyable and, at
the same time, a little involved. We have
given you hints about the Lani Kai systems
throughout the manual so that you may
become proficient quickly.
Also the Lani Kai is “as new.” We ask your
assistance in keeping the Lani Kai in this
condition. And this is a “non smoking” boat.
We are sure you will enjoy cruising the
lovely islands of the Pacific Northwest. If
you have questions about the boat or about
places to visit, please do not hesitate to ask
the AYC staff.
Revision February 19, 2006
©2006. All rights reserved
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
LANI KAI SUMMARY
Master Stateroom
Island Queen bed
Three hanging closets
Two night tables with lamps
Heating system thermostat
Heating coils in closets
Indirect and direct lighting
Vanity with six drawers
Intercom
Two portholes with curtains
Audio speakers with volume
control
Depth sounder display
Impressive artwork
Large drawers under Bed, 3 sides
GE Washer and Dryer in hallway
Central vacuum outlet
Full length mirror
Master Head
Vacuflush toilet
Storage behind every mirror
Grohe Brass fixtures
Corian countertops
Large storage behind toilet
Two portholes with curtains
Heating system control
Large shower with Grohe
showerhead
Nightlight on light switch
VIP Stateroom
Island Queen bed
Two hanging closets
Mirrored bulkhead
Indirect and direct lighting
Two portholes with curtains
Reading lamps
Overhead skylight with screen and
blackout
Heating system thermostat
Heating coils in closets
Audio speakers with volume
control
Intercom
Large drawers under Bed and
beside
Door to head
Central vacuum outlet
Guest Stateroom
Upper and lower berths
Reading lamps
Porthole with curtains
Audio speakers with volume
control
Heating system thermostat
Intercom
Drawers and lockers
Guest Head
Vacuflush toilet
Storage behind mirror
Grohe Brass fixtures
Porthole with curtains
Corian countertops
Heating system control
Storage under sink
Shower with Grohe showerhead
Nightlight on light switch
Salon
Leather sofa
Two custom armchairs
Wine storage round table
Heating system thermostat
Two floor lamps
Two table lamps
Under counter refrigerator/freezer
Icemaker
Curtains on all windows
Glass front bookcase
End table with large drawers
Central vacuum outlet
Direct and indirect lighting
Stunning artwork
Entertainment center including:
• 24” television
• combination DVD/VCR player
• Game input on TV
• Direct TV receiver and KVH
Satellite control
• Audio source and zone
controller – total six zones
• AM/FM radio
• Six disc CD player
• 400 disc CD player
• iPod input
• Surround sound system with
subwoofer
Galley
Under counter refrigerator/freezer
Gaggenau 4-burner glass cooktop
GE Mircrowave convection oven
Corian countertops
Double sink with Moen water filter
faucet
Garbage disposal
Broan Trash compactor
Electric coffee maker
Electric griddle
Large toaster
Dishwasher with water saving
feature
Many drawers and cabinets for
storage
Brass barometer and ships clock
U shaped dinette with adjustable
table
Large storage under dinette
cushions
Pilothouse
Pompannette adjustable helm chair
Large wooden wheel with power
steering
Audio speakers with volume
control
Two overhead skylights for
ventilation and light
Custom electrical panel
Complete and redundant instuments including:
• Simrad CA50 very large screen
radar, chartplotter, fish finder
depth
• Simrad 14 channel GPS
• Ocean PC with Nobeltec chartplotter, forward sonar
• Furuno 14 channel GPS
(for Nobeltec)
• Icom VHF radio
• Icom SSB radio
• Simrad autopilot
• Northern Lights genset
controls
• Wind speed and direction
gauge
• Simrad IS15 networked gauges
for depth, temp, alarms
• Trim tab controls
• Rudder position indicator
• Intercom
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
LANI KAI SUMMARY CONTINUED
Pilothouse continued
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Bow thruster control
Wiper and defroster controls
Ships schematic with indicator
lights for pumps, lights, etc
Muir anchor control with chain
counter
Wema fuel and water tank
gauges
Volvo electronic engine
controls
Volvo complete analog engine,
transmission, turbo gauges
Two Tankwatch holding tank
gauges
Prosine 3000 watt Inverter
control
Backup electronics battery
Cockpit
Live bait tank with viewing
window and internal light
Overhead rod holders
Overhead, safety and flood
lighting
Rear station engine/transmission
bow thruster controls
Sink with hot and cold faucets
Deck chairs
Engine room door
Lifesling rescue apparatus
Lazerette
Easy ladder access and great
lighting
Northern Lights 12 KW generator
Generator start battery
Webasto diesel heater
Water tanks with sight glasses and
crossover valves
Freshwater pump and water
backup pump
Crab pots, nets
Spare mooring lines
Stern tie line and spare anchor
rode
Very large storage areas
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
Swimstep
Three Stainless security rails
Long Stainless swim ladder
Pop up cleats
Hot and Cold freshwater shower
hose
Raw water faucet
Two storage cabinets
Glendinning Cablemaster 50 amp
shore power cord with remote
Safety lighting
Foredeck
66 pound polished CQR anchor
Muir heavy duty electric windlass
Foot operated windlass controls
400 feet all chain rode
Anchor bridle
Spare Danforth anchor
Easy chain locker access
Fender holders which store flat
Fresh and raw water washdown
faucets with hose
Line holders in forward hatch
Engine Room
Spacious, standup with 24 v and
110 volt lighting
Volvo Penta 480 hp TAMD
engines, electronic control
Racor fuel filters and fuel
manifolds
Prosine 3000 watt inverter
Engine battery charger
Fireboy automatic fire extinguisher
240 volt step up transformers
Central vacuum with local outlet
Water heater plumbed to engines
and Webasto
Engine, windlass, davit, inverter
battery controls
Toolbox and work bench with vise
Oil change system
Fuel transfer pump
Dripless shaft seals
Four 8D engine start batteries
Eight 8D house batteries
Fuel tanks with sight glasses and
crossover valves
Large storage areas with complete
engine spares
Flying Bridge Controls
Dual Pompannette adjustable
chairs with cupholders
Audio speakers with volume
control
Large chrome wheel with power
steering
Paper chart storage; Seattle to
No. Vancouver island
Complete and redundant instruments including:
• Simrad CA50 monitor
• Ocean PC monitor
• Icom VHF radio
• Simrad autopilot
• Analog compass
• Rudder position indicator
• Ships gyro compass
• Simrad IS15 networked gauges
for depth, temp, alarms
• Trim tab controls
• Intercom
• Bow thruster control
• Muir anchor control with chain
counter
• Volvo electronic engine
controls
• Volvo complete analog engine,
transmission, turbo gauges
Flying Bridge
Entertainment
Uline icemaker freezer
Very large Sea Freeze holding
plate freezer
Miele electric barbecue
Sink with hot and cold faucets
L shaped settee and table
Bimini Top
Life jackets
Storage under settee and in hatches
Block and tackle as davit back-up
and MOB rescue
Dinghy and Davit
12 ft Rendova RIB with console
and VHF radio, seats 5-6
RIB includes fishfinder/depth
sounder and AM/FM/CD stereo
16 gallon internal gasoline tank in
dinghy with gauge
40 hp Yamaha outboard
Nick Jackson 1000 lb. davit with
hydraulic arm
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Welcome
Boat Summary
Boat Operation
Daily Pre-Start Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Generator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Start-Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Shutdown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Getting Underway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Cruising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Docking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Bow Thruster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Fueling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Boat Electrical
120 volt AC Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Inverter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Generator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Cablemaster/Shore Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
240 volt System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
24 volt DC System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
12 volt Electronics System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Sanitation Systems
Vacuflush Toilets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Holding Tanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Y-Valve. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Water Systems
Fresh Water Tanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Fresh Water Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Hot Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Shower and Sump Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Galley and Related
Stovetop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Microwave/Convection Oven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Refrigeration/Freezers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Ice Maker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Flybridge Freezer/Ice Maker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Dishwasher. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Trash Compactor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Garbage Disposal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
Filtered Drinking Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Washer/Dryer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Central Vacuum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Storage recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Heating Systems
Diesel Heater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Engine-generated Heat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Electronics/Navigation
Electronics/Navigation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
VHF Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Depth Sounders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Radar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
GPS/Plotters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Paper Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Autopilot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Flying Bridge Instruments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Instrument Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Entertainment
AM/FM Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
CD Players . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
TV/Satellite TV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
DVD/VHS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
iPod/MP3 input . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Games/Xbox/Playstation inputs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Anchoring
Deploying the Anchor/Chain counter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Raising the Anchor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Anchor Bridle and Stern Tie Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Barbecue
Flying Bridge (electric) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Dinghy/Outboard
Davit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Dinghy systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Towing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Crabbing/Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Bait Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Bilge Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Appendices
Chart List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Thru-Hull Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
BOAT OPERATION
Daily Pre-Start Inspection
Do an inspection of the mechanical systems and the engine
room before you operate the vessel for the day. It is much easier
to fix any problem while at the dock or anchored then it is while
underway.
J
Engine Room Lights; 24 v panel, left,
Inverter Bus, right
Pre-Start Inspection Preparation: On the electrical panel turn
on engine room lights, 24 v, 110 v or both, and grab the flashlight
by the helm. There should be paper towels in the engine compartment. The engine room light switches are at the top of the engine
stairway, port side. With both switches on, the engine room is a
bright place.
Lani Kai in Reid Harbor, Stuart Island
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
1
Coolant expansion tank
Port Engine
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
2
Oil Dipstick
BOAT OPERATION
ENGINE
Coolant/Water:
Check the level of coolant in the expansion tanks mounted on
each fuel tank outboard of the engines. There should be about
one-half to one inch in the bottom if the engines are cold. If
needed, add coolant from the jugs marked, “premixed ethylene
gycol” usually stored near the batteries under the tool box.
Oil:
Check the level of oil in each engine by checking your dipsticks
located on the inboard side midway of each engine. To get the
proper reading, you will have to remove the dipstick, insert, and
remove a second or even a third time to read the dipstick. This
should be done with the engines cold. Look at the etch marks on
each dipstick that indicate the proper oil level.
Only add if oil levels are at the bottom of the normal operating
mark. You will know it is at the bottom as you can read the entire
word “STOP” on the dipstick (after pulling out the dipstick for
the second time). Generally, you will not have to add oil as these
Volvo engines use very little. If you do have to fill, the proper
oil is Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 (or equivalent SAE rated CH4
15W-40 oil) and is stored below the tool box battery area.
Do not overfill the oil! This is a case where more is not better.
Please use a paper towel for wiping the dipstick and when filling
the oil.
Volvo recommends if running for long periods of time, you stop
the engines, wait three minutes and check the oil every eight running hours.
Bilges:
There will always be about an inch of water in the forward most
engine bilge compartment by the pump. However there should
be little more there or elsewhere. The Lani Kai has bulkheads at
the front of the engine room, just aft of the washer/dryer, and aft
of the anchor chain locker. If there is water in the bilge accessed
from the master stateroom hatch, check to make sure the shower
sump pump is on (just leave the shower pump on at all times).
There are a number of high water alarms throughout the boat,
usually near the bilge pumps. If any of these go off, give it your
immediate attention. In the pilothouse there is a schematic of
the Lani Kai with indicator lights for these alarms and bilge pump
operation. The high water alarms sound when the water is three
inches deep.
Dipstick
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
3
Fuel Level (Sight Gauge)
Fuel Filters
Sea Strainer
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
4
Sometimes a bilge pump will be clogged and this causes the
problem. Depressing the red tabs on the sides of the pumps allows you to take the pump motor out and clear the debris. You
may have to pull the fuse in the pilothouse to avoid having your
fingers pinched by the pump.
Belts:
Check the general condition of the belts, hoses, and fuel lines.
Belts are a little hard to see even with a flashlight, so look for
evidence of the belt rubbing and rubber dust. In general look for
loose bolts, brackets and the like. Also, use this opportunity to
look under the engines. The oil absorbent mats should be nearly
clean.
Sea Strainers:
Ensure the valve on each raw water thru-hull is in the ‘open’
position (lever in-line with valve). The valves are at the front of
each engine. Use your flashlight and examine through the glass of
each raw water strainer for debris. If cleaning is necessary, close
the seacock, open the strainer cover by turning the top cover. You
may have to use a mallet to start the turning. Clean the strainer in
a bucket so that you may discard the debris easily and reassemble.
Remember to reopen the seacock and look to make sure there are
no leaks by the top of the strainer.
Fuel Filters:
The fuel filters for the main engines are located on the bulkhead in front of the port engine. The generator fuel filter is in this
location as well, so check all three. Using your flashlight, the fuel
should look clear. If there is any water in the bottom of these filters, you can drain it by the valve at the bottom of the housing. Be
sure and have a container to catch the fluid as you drain. Double
check that the valve is tight and not dripping. If you believe the
filters need changing, contact AYC for assistance.
Sea Strainer and Thru Hull Valve
Fuel filters from left to right: Port
Engine, Gen Set, Starboard Engine
Fuel Level:
While you are in the engine room, it is a convenient time to
check the fuel levels as a confirmation to the pilothouse gauges.
The pilothouse gauges so far have been accurate while the sight
tubes can be hard to read. Open the valve on both the top and the
bottom of the sight gauge at the forward part of the fuel tank to
get an accurate reading. Be sure and close the valves as a precaution of leakage or worse; feeding an engine room fire from these
tubes.
Fuel Level sight Glass
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
5
Engine keys are usually
stored in the top drawer of
the table at the starboard
rear of the salon. You need
only use one set for either
the pilothouse or the upper
bridge.
Lani Kai
Symbol Luxury Yacht
6
Batteries:
Only the four engine start batteries and the one generator start
battery need the water level checked. Use only distilled water to fill.
There is a dark blue battery filler to help.
Transmission Oil Level:
Both engine transmissions have an oil dipstick on aft end. To
check the proper level the engines must be running with the transmissions in neutral.
Checking the Generator:
The generator is another diesel engine and has the same checks
as the main propulsion engines. You should check the generator
prior to the first running and every four hours of operation thereafter. The checklist is:
1. Coolant: from the access hatch on the top of the genset.
Some fluid should be visible. If you need to add, use the
same premix as for the main engines and a funnel.
2. Oil level; from the port side access hatch of the generator. To
add oil you will need a screwdriver to remove the top
generator panel. It is the same oil as for the main engines.
3. Bilges; just to the stern side of the generator. You should
see hardly any water.
4. Sea Strainer; on the stern Starboard back corner of the lazerette and well labeled.
5. Fuel Filter, engine room bulkhead, port side.
6. Gauges; both at the generator and in a easy to see position to
the right of the wheel in the pilothouse. Temperature during
normal running should be about 170° with oil pressure
greater than 40 psi.
Start-Up
Before starting the engines, do your engine room inspection. It
is a good idea to know that no one is in the engine room as well.
The engines should be started from the pilothouse station as this
will allow you to check that water is coming from the exhausts
shortly after startup.
The Lani Kai has Volvo electronic engine controls. Gearshifts
and throttle are the same lever. If you are accustomed to separate
gearshifts and throttles, be careful that in shifting gears you do
not push the lever all the way since that will be full throttle as
well (however this feature can come in quite handy in a docking
emergency). Small fingertip movements work best. There is a
short lag before the gear is engaged after moving the lever from
neutral.
Ensure throttles/gear shifts are in ‘neutral’. The engines cannot
be started unless this is the case because of the “neutral lockout”.
Insert the proper keys into the ignition switches, turn one click
clockwise. This is position 1 on the ignition switch. Then press
and hold for a few seconds the “active” button to the left of the
throttles. The “neutral” buttons should be lighted to signify that
this, of the three stations, is the one in control. You can only start
and shift the engines from the station in control.
In position 1 for the ignition, three warning light indicators will
illuminate (and go off when the engine is running). Turn the key
fully clockwise to engage the starter (position
III). If the starter does not commence when the
key is turned, stop and check that the throttles/
gearshifts are in neutral and that the station “active” light is illuminated. Normally, the engines
start after four or five seconds of cranking. More
than ten seconds is abnormal and may over heat
the starter.
The Volvo engines do not have pre-heaters as
these functions are under the control of the engine computer (EDC, electronic diesel control).
They pre-heat by cranking, at least, four revolutions. Unlike a car engine, they will not start in
the first one or two seconds but very reliably start after that. If the
engine is very cold, it will automatically increase the idle speed to
as much as 800 rpm and decrease that speed after warmup.
After the first engine starts, look at the gauges. A summary of
what the gauges should read is in the margin.
Start the second engine in the same fashion. Once again check
the gauges as well as glance back as the port engine gauges to
double check them. At this time, walk to the rear of the Lani Kai
and at each corner of the swimstep you should see evidence that
water is coming from the exhaust.
If the engine cranks slowly or fails to turn over, check the condition of the battery on the top of the Electrical panel. To do this,
flip the toggle to engine and you should see 24 volts or more.
There is a battery parallel switch located in the engine room
above the tool box to connect the other engine battery. Turn off
after using. Notify AYC if you find using the battery parallel
switch necessary since this is quite abnormal. Another option is to
run the generator and charge the engine batteries
If will take five to ten minutes before the temperature gauges
move from the left resting position. Note the temperature gauges
have markings that are not linear. If it takes much LESS time than
ten minutes for the temperature gauges to move above 170, then
!
Ignition Switch - position 1
Volvo Keypad
Gauges on start up
• oil pressure: about 80 psi
• temperature: 100 or less
• voltage: 26 volts or higher
• transmission: 75 to 150,
this will rise when the transmissions
are shifted and then stay higher
• turbo: zero
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re-check that water is flowing out of the exhaust and through the sea
strainers.
Note -- If the alarm sounds and/or the warning lights illuminate,
shut down engine, and inspect engine compartment and look for possible cause. Caution -- If an engine is overheating or there is lack
of raw water expelled in the engine exhaust, stop the engine immediately. Recheck the raw water-cooling system to ensure the seacock is
‘open’ (handle in-line with valve). Next, check the raw water strainer for debris. Remove the strainer, clean, re-assemble, and reopen the
raw water intake valve (seacock). Restart the engine and re-check
water flow from the exhaust. If water is not flowing properly, the Raw
Water Pump may need to be serviced. Seek help from AYC.
!
Ignition Switch - position “S”
Note:
The radio antennas on
the Lani Kai reach up
about 26 feet. You may
need to lower the highest
ones for some situations
- like the Pender Island
bridge.
Shut-Down
Before shutting down, allow the engines to ‘idle’ for about 5 minutes to cool them gradually and uniformly. The time engaged in
docking the boat is usually sufficient for this cool down. Ensure each
Gearshift/Throttle is in the ‘neutral’ position.
Turn off engines by turning the key all the way to the left (counter
clockwise) to position “S”. Position “0” will not stop the engines and
is the position for inserting and removing the keys. You must turn off
the engines from the station at which you started them. At the cockpit
station, there are no keys however there are red emergency engine
kill buttons.
GETTING UNDERWAY
Checklist for getting underway:
 Portholes are closed
 Shore power is disconnected (see 110 volt section)
 Forward stateroom hatch is closed
 VHF radio is on (upper and lower)
 GPS is on
 Radar is warmed up
 Ocean PC is booted into Nobeltec program
 Steering wheel is centered
 Bow thruster is on
 Dinghy is secure
 All canvas is stored
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



General check that towels, swimsuits, etc are secure
Engines are warmed
Crew is fully informed as to each one’s departure assignments
Crew is all on board and at their stations, preferably fore and aft.
Once underway:
1. Before accelerating to cruise speed, verify that the engines
are up to temperature and gauges are reading normally.
2. Fenders are stored in the foredeck railing mounted fender
holders (these slide and rotate)
3. Lines are stored in the forward port hatch on the line holder
or on the cord in the lazerette above the generator
Cruising
Engage the transmission by moving the throttle lever forward
to the first detent. Cruising speed is a maximum of about 2300
RPMS. If you run at 2100 RPM you will cruise at 14.7 knots
and use about 27.4 gallons of diesel per hour. From a fuel efficiency standpoint, the best speeds are slow, 1400 rpm; medium
1900 rpm; faster 2100 rpm. Please do not exceed 2300 rpm.
Your speed will vary depending upon the weight, load, weather,
and particularly tide/current conditions. You can use Trim Tabs
to lower the bow slightly and to balance from port to starboard.
The trim tabs are quite effective for boat this size and with the
bow down and the boat level, you can gain one-half knot or so of
speed.
RPM
1400
1600
1800
1900
2000
2100
2200
2300
Speed
9.6 knots
10.4 knots
12 knots
13 knots
13.8 knots
14.7 knots
15.6 knots
16.8 knots
Normal Engine Gauges
while Cruising
• Engine temperature:
170 -190 degrees
• Oil pressure: 65 - 80 psi
• Voltage: 28 volts
• Transmission: 300 -350 psi
• Turbo: depends upon RPM
Total Fuel
10 gph
13.2 gph
17.5 gph
20.1 gph
24.3 gph
27.0 gph
31.6 gph
35.3 gph
Docking
From experience, here are some hints on close quarter maneuvering. With the dinghy stored, there is limited rear visibility
from the flying bridge through the hatch by the dinghy stern. On
the other hand, using the starboard cockpit station and controls,
you have very limited visibility of the bow and the port side. In
many ways, the pilothouse has the best fore and aft visibility but
without the birds-eye view of the upper bridge. Many people find
the pilothouse to be the best position. In any event, your crew
should be stationed fore and aft to assist.
Starboard cockpit controls
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Starboard fender board in place
One particular caution is that the bow rail area by the fender
holders extends outward more than the rub rail. In other words, in
this area, the first part of the Lani Kai to hit something will be the
bow fiberglass, not the fenders at water level nor the rub rail. This
vulnerable area is not easy to see from any of the piloting stations
and you should not only be very careful but also have a crew
member stationed in this bow area ready to put a fender between
the boat and any hard object (like a piling). There are some flat,
fender boards which work well for this.
While moving slowly to the dock or mooring location, center
the Wheel (e.g. rudders straight) and use only the Gearshifts/
Throttles (and in final maneuvers , the bow thruster) to control the
boat. The Lani Kai weighs about 60,000 pounds loaded so you
will find it will keep forward momentum easily. Many times this
is to your advantage, however it means when stopping to pivot
or such, you may still have more boat forward momentum than
you think. The Lani Kai also has a keel so that you will not have
the same momentum pivoting that you have going forward and
reversing.
During docking, have your crew make ready the lines and fenders and give clear instructions on how you will be docking. Often
times your crew will need to step off from the swim step with the
stern line or, preferably, an aft spring line. Another crew member will need to be at the bow or mid-ships to hand over the next
lines.
Bow Thruster
The bow thruster is a powerful Wesmar 12 inch twin blade.
While it will move the boat smartly, it should be used as secondary to the main engines. All electric bow thrusters have thermal
overload cutouts. This cutout should never be a concern if you
use the thruster for three to ten second bursts.
The bow thruster control is of the type where the thrust is in the
direction of the bottom of the activation lever. It works best if you
use your thumb on the bottom of the lever, pushing the part of the
lever in the direction you wish the bow to go.
FUELING UP
Bow to port
Bow to starboard
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The fuel filler caps are the only deck fluid accesses that require
a deck key. The waste pump out and the water do not. The Deck
Key is kept in the top drawer in the bureau in the aft starboard
salon. Please return it there.
Caution: make sure you have the correct fuel! DIESEL!
Make sure it is going into the correct DECK FILL (not the
ones that don’t take a key)! Please Double-Check since here
is where expensive accidents happen.
Before pumping, have an oil/fuel sorbs handy to soak up spilled
fuel. The proper technique is to hold the sorb below the fuel
overflow on the hull. There should be some of these oil absorbent cloths in the engine room and in the cockpit hatch by the
life throw ring. You should have a rough idea of the number of
gallons you will need by the fuel tank sight gauges in the engine
room and the fuel gauges in the pilothouse. On the pilothouse
gauge, position #1 is port fuel and position #2 is starboard fuel.
Starboard fuel crossover valve
You need not fuel both sides IF you open the fuel tank crossover valve located at the bottom of the engine room ladder and
at the rear of the port fuel tank. With both the crossover valves
open, fuel will equalize within the tanks. Fueling from one side
is very convenient, however it does mean that fuel may overflow
from the vent on other side from where you are fueling first, so
be alert. In general, with the dinghy stored on top, the fuel will
overflow on the starboard side first.
Place the Diesel nozzle into the tank opening, pump slowly and
evenly, and note the sound of the fuel flow. Pumping too fast
may not allow enough time for air to escape, which may result in
Fuel overflow on the hull
spouting from the tank opening (not only does this make a mess,
it is liable to get on the person fueling). As the tank fills, the
sound will rise in pitch or gurgle. Pay attention to the Overflow
Vent on the outside of the hull near the tank opening. The sound
may indicate that the tank is nearly
full. The gauges will tell you when
Fuel Fill
you are getting near full but not
precisely when you are full. Top off
carefully, and be prepared to catch
Waste Caps
spilled fuel. Spillage could result in
a nasty fine from law enforcement.
Replace the tank cap. Caution
Fuel Fill
Water Fill
-- Clean up splatter and spillage
immediately for environmental and
Water Fill
health reasons. Wash hands with
soap and water thoroughly.
And remember to close the fuel
tank crossover valve at the bottom
of the engine room ladder and on
the port tank. If you opened the
sight gauges on the fuel tanks in the
engine room, remember to close all
of them as well (this is an important
Port walkaround, looking forward
Starboard walkaround, looking forward
safety issue).
from cockpit
from cockpit
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24VDC System
Engine Battery
Bank
Electronics
AC System
Inverter Bus
240VAC Bus
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BOAT ELECTRICAL
The electrical system is divided into the following distribution
systems: 240 volt, 120-volt AC
and 24 volt, 12 volt DC.
The systems are controlled
from the AC and DC Electrical Panel located at the top of
the stairs to the staterooms. The
Battery switches are found in
the engine room and should
not need your attention. When
not connected to shore power
and the generator is not operating, batteries are providing all
power. Therefore, monitor the
use of onboard electricity carefully with the meters located on
the electrical panel as well as the readout from the inverter in the
pilothouse and turn off electrical devices that are not needed.
Most breakers are labeled by colored dots. Green signifies
“usually on”. Red is “usually off”.
120-VOLT AC SYSTEM
Inverter Power
The Inverter provides AC power to the 120-volt receptacle plugs
(and there are many of them) when the boat is disconnected from
shore power. The inverter does not provide power to the water
heater or the battery charger. What it does power is everything in
the Inverter portion at the very bottom of the electrical pane. The
Prosine inverter control panel is located at the pilothouse helm,
lower left of the wheel, with an on/off switch and indicators of its
status. Make certain that it is on and you should not have to do
anything else. When you are on shore power or the generator is
operating it will charge the inverter batteries automatically. The
actual inverter is located in the engine room on the port side by
the tool box and is a 3000 watt Prosine unit.
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Caution: If the inverter
voltage is less than 24.4
volts, the inverter batteries
need charging via shorepower or the generator soon.
The inverter’s power source is the DC house/inverter batteries located in the engine room. The quantity of DC power is
limited to the capacity of these batteries which are quite large
but they may be depleted by the many AC systems on the Lani
Kai. Therefore, running hair dryers, toaster, coffeepots, electric
griddles, etc. will discharge the house/inverter batteries fairly
fast. The way to think about this that is the highest power users
are appliances that heat or cool. Monitor your battery usage.
The inverter is capable of 3000 watts. A hair dryer is 1500 watts
as are coffeepots, electric griddles, and toasters. This means that
you should only run ONE of these type of appliances at any time
not two (and certainly not two from the same outlet). On the other
hand, you can run quite a few cell phone chargers and lamps at
one time.
It is possible to overload the inverter and it will shut down and
show a fault code. If this happens go to the engine room, above
the toolbox there is a inverter battery switch. Turn off for more
than 30 seconds, then back on. The inverter should reset itself if
you have removed some load.
When connected to shore power, the inverter automatically becomes a battery charger for the 12-volt House Batteries. Should
you detect the inverter failing to charge the house batteries, check
the inverter circuit breaker in the AC Panel (labeled as Always
On) and the inverter control panel.
GENERATOR
The Lani Kai generator can fully power the boat. If you are
not connected to shore power, you will need to run the generator
every day to keep the batteries fully charged. Monitor the battery
voltage levels to determine how long to run the generator. You
should try and run the generator with a good “load” on it as running without this will carbon up the engine.
To start the generator, first check that you have completed a
thorough inspection of the generator coolant, oil, etc. within the
last four usage hours. A check list is in the earlier section discussing main engine daily inspection. Also make sure the all AC
breakers are turned Off.
There are three sets of generator controls. They are located at
the generator sound shield, lower right of the pilothouse wheel,
and on the electrical panel. Use either the controls at the generator
or by the pilothouse wheel for starting since there is a complete
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set of gauges at these two locations First pre-heat the generator
for about 15 to 20 seconds. Then while still pre-heating push the
switch to start. Hold the switch in that position while the generator catches. You can tell when it catches usually by the sound and
also by the voltage gauge.
The generator only should be started with NO AC loads on
systems. After starting, it will need to warm up about three minutes before adding a load. If the generator stops after starting, you
probably started it with a load or added the load before it warmed
up. After starting and verifying normal operation on the gauges,
walk back to the swim step to make sure water and exhaust is exiting. Exhaust gases exit from the port engine exhaust and water
is pumped out, under water, by the port side of the cockpit and is
easily visible if normal.
After you have checked the water, turn the AC distribution switch to GEN. Then turn on AC systems
one system at a time. This is a good time to turn on
the hot water heater since it will get warmer than by
the engine heat alone and since the hot water heater
can draw 15 amps. Also, this is a good time to run the
engine battery charger. You should run the generator
for a minimum of 45 minutes from a cold start.
To turn the generator off, first take off all the loads
by turning off AC breakers. Wait two minutes or so
for the generator to cool, then turn off main AC distribution switch. Lastly kill the generator by switching
generator switch to “Stop” until it dies. If you release
the Stop switch before the generator loses all speed, it
likely will restart.
Caution: Never run the
generator for less than 45
minutes.
Preheat
Pilothouse
generator controls
Start/Stop
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CABLEMASTER/SHORE POWER
Shore power supports AC equipment and receptacles on board,
as well as the battery chargers. The Lani Kai can consume a
considerable amount of power. If available, you want 50 amp 125
volt power. Many marinas are 30 amp power and at that level
you will have to monitor usage very carefully or you will trip the
breaker on the marina dock
You can hook to shore power in two ways. There is the
Glendinning Cablemaster which exits on the swimstep starboard
side and a shore power hookup near the pilothouse door on the
port side. The starboard shore power pilothouse area hookup is
not active in favor of the Cablemaster on the stern.
Port side shore power connection
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Shore Power Cord:
To connect to shore power, plug the Yellow 50 amp 125 volt
Power Cord from the lazerette into the port side pilothouse receptactle and then into the dock receptacle. Do not hook to the dock
first since if activated would mean handling a live cord end above
water. Check the power rating/plug size of the nearest dock receptacle (that is 50 amp, 30 amp, 20 amp). If necessary, add a Plug
Adaptor located in the rear salon drawers.
Turn the dock power on and check the pilothouse electrical
panel. If all is well, there will be an amber light on the electrical panel by the Port shore power position. If the ‘RP’ light is on
that means the connection is Reverse Polarity. DO NOT turn the
selector on shore power if there is reverse polarity. Danger and
damage awaits if you do. If there is reverse polarity, check with
the dockmaster.
With all well, turn the Power selection knob to Port Shore
Power and check the red readouts right above. They should read
something close to 115 volts and 60 cycles. There will be some
amperage draw starting in about 15 seconds as the inverter automatically switches to a battery charge mode. Then turn on appropriate breakers for refrigeration, water heater, and outlets. Watch
your ammeter for load. If the load exceeds that of the dock, you
will pop the dock breaker. If this occurs, wait to turn on one of
your systems (most likely the water heater) until the usage drops
as the batteries charge. You can exceed the 50 amp rating of the
shore power cord and breakers will open on the boat.
CableMaster:
The Cablemaster is a marvelous piece since it makes the deployment and retrieval of the white shore power cord much easier.
The white cord is about sixty feet long and in some circumstances
you may need to add the separate yellow shore power cord to
reach a receptacle.
To deploy (or retrieve) the Cablemaster, first turn on the breaker
on the 24 VDC portion of the electrical panel marked ‘Cablemaster’. It is on the right hand side. Then open the small door on
the swimstep by the boarding steps. In the top of the receptacle
is a switch for electrically powering the cable in and out. This
is usually a two person job due to the weight of the cable. You
can either turn the switch on --or -- you can find the little black
remote control in the salon drawers. Button #1 and #2 control the
Cablemaster.
Please be careful in retrieving the shore power cord. You should
power it in just until the cord plug is recessed enough to close the
cover. If you power it in until it stalls the motor, likely you WILL
jerk the wires loose within the plug end and have a problem next
time you (or someone else) uses the cord.
After hooking the shore power cord to dock connection, follow
the same steps above for the shore power cord. That is, check for
reverse polarity and that the indicator light is on before selecting
the Starboard Shore Power position. Again watch the readouts
and monitor the amperage usage.
240-Volt AC System
The 240 volt system requires step up 120/240 volt transformers.
These transformers must be activated on the AC portion of the
electrical panel. The appliances, which use 240 volt, have breakers along the very bottom of the electrical panel. You will need
either shore power or the generator to use 240 volt systems.
24-Volt DC System
24 volts DC run the built-in lights, plus the pumps, toilets, and
the like. The higher voltage is more efficient for devices such as
this and the power comes straight from a dedicated bank of batteries. If you ever need to replace a 24 volt DC component, you can
NOT substitute a 12 volt DC product. The 12 volt one will have
a very short life at this higher voltage with its death accompanied
usually by smoke and a putrid smell.
There are replacement 24 volt halogen light bulbs in the salon
aft drawer. When replacing these bulbs do not touch the bulb with
your bare skin as the oils from your body will cause stress fractures in the bulb. Get a clean paper towel or such to touch the new
bulb and install it with this protection between your skin and the
bulb itself.
Cablemaster, starboard swimstep
Warning: Halogen bulbs
get very hot fast. Be careful in touching one even
with the paper towel if on
recently.
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12-Volt DC System (Electronics)
Primarily, the navigation electronics are powered by 12 volt DC
power. You attention only need be directed to which ones to activate when you need them rather than the voltage they use or from
where that voltage comes.
MONITORING BATTERY LEVEL
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The DC voltmeter at the top of the electrical panel may be
switched between Engine, Electronics, and House Battery banks
to measure charging or discharging battery voltages. The pilothouse inverter panel is the fourth set of batteries you will need to
monitor.
When a battery bank is being charged, the voltage will read
about 27 to 28 volts for the 24 volts systems and about 13.5 to 14
volts for the 12 volt electronics depending upon state-of-charge
of the battery bank. When the battery bank is not being charged,
the voltmeter can give an indication of the state-of-charge of the
battery bank. As a rule, the electronics batteries (12 volts) need
charging under 12.3 volts and for the others, they need charging
under 24.6 volts. See below for more information relative to the
inverter.
Since there are three alternators on the Lani Kai, all batteries
are charged while underway. However, the alternators output is
not nearly as great as the generator or usually shore power. This
means if you are running short distances during the day, or are at
anchor, you will need to make sure you charge the batteries.
In general, it is the inverter batteries that you will deplete the
most and you should give your closest attention ( the refrigerators
use the inverter batteries). The House batteries are mainly lighting
and the Engine batteries should be fine unless you extensively use
those items also on them, Davit, Windlass, Thruster, without the
engines running.
When charging the inverter batteries, which will be automatic,
via shore power or the generator, also turn on the “Engine Battery
Charger” on the right side of the “AC system” part of the electrical panel. Below the “Engine Battery Charger” is the switch for
the “Electronics Battery Charger” which you should have on also
while shore or generator power is available.
Link 10:
The Link 10 at the top of the electrical panel displays house
(not engine) battery charge level via the green LEDs across the
top. The SEL button will toggle the readout through V volts, A
amps, present flow, Ah amp hours consumed since charge and T
time remaining at present discharge level.
SANITATION SYSTEM
Vacuflush Toilets
It is important that every member of the crew be informed on
the proper use of the Marine Toilet. The valves, openings, and
pumps may clog. If the toilet clogs, it is Your Responsibility
(which may not be as big a deal as the fact that you will have an
unpleasant mess and no toilet to use!). AYC recommends you
flush the head for children, so you can make sure nothing foreign
is being flushed.
Caution – Never put paper towels, tampons, Kleenex, sanitary
napkins, household toilet paper, or food into the marine toilet.
Use only the special dissolving marine toilet tissue provided by
AYC.
With that said, the Vacuflush toilets are a joy to use compared
to older marine toilets. They use a small amount of fresh water
which prevents that ‘boat toilet’ smell. To flush the toilet, press
down on the foot pedal. If you have not used a toilet like this before, prepare to be startled by the ‘whoosh’ that comes next. Hold
the pedal down for about three seconds, then release. If you pull
Up on the pedal next, a small amount of water will run into the
bowl. The toilet manufacturer recommends having about a pint to
a quart of water in the bowl to aid in flushing the waste through
the system.
If the toilet continues pumping more than 30 seconds, the ball
has not sealed. Another flush may clear the problem. If not try
wiping the sealling surfaces with toilet paper to remove the problem. (Okay, it is not pleasant, but neither were diapers.)
The simplest rule for marine
toilets is: Nothing should go
into the toilet which has not
passed through your body except small amounts of marine
toilet paper. Note, this means
do not throw up into the toilet.
Holding Tanks
The sanitation Holding Tanks hold 100 gallons (that is not a
typo, there are two 50 gallon tanks). To the left of the pilothouse
wheel are two holding tank gauges that are activated by the same
breaker as the fuel and water tank gauge. It is prudent to monitor
these and they give you good information since they show one
of four different levels. With an overfilled tank, it is possible to
break a hose, clog a vent, or burst the tank. The result will be an
indescribable catastrophe.
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The holding tanks are located under the floor hatches, one in the
master stateroom and one in the hallway. If you doubt the tank
gauge, you can do a visual check with a flashlight or the “watermelon” test by thumping it.
The holding tanks are emptied in one of two ways:
#1 At the Marine Pump-Out Station, remove the Waste Caps
located amidships starboard side. These do not require a dock key
(so if you need a dock key, that is for Fuel!). Insert the pump-out
nozzle into the waste opening. Double-check your deck fitting!
Turn on pump and open valve located on handle. When pumping is finished, close lever on handle and turn off pump. Remove
from deck fitting. You may need to prime the hose which can be
done by dunking it in the seawater to suck up some water and
have better suction.
If there is a fresh water hose on the dock, rinse the tank by adding 2 minutes of water into tank. Then repump to leave the tank
rinsed for the next user. This also eliminates head odors.
#2 The tank’s contents may be discharged with the macerator
pumps only in Canadian waters. To operate the pumps depress the
“Fwd Holding Tank Pump” and “Aft Holding Tank Pump” on the
DC electrical panel. The pumps will run as long as these switches
are on. Watch the holding tank gauge lights since pumping with
the tank dry will destroy the pumps. If you can hear the pumps
when the pitch becomes higher, the tank is empty. The discharge
is below the water line and can not be observed.
Y-Valve
The Y-VALVE directs waste effluent into the sanitation-holding tank or flushes the effluent ‘directly overboard’. The normal
position of the valve is with the handle pointed to the holding
tank. Y-valves are usually tied to the holding tank position in
accordance with Coast Guard regulations. Please leave it “as
is” unless there is an emergency. Be familiar with the applicable
laws concerning dumping sewage directly overboard.
WATER SYSTEM
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Fresh Water Tanks
The fresh water tanks holds 230 gallons plus the water heater.
You may track the water level by the sight gauges on the tanks, or
more conveniently, by gauges to the left of the helm. Tank #3 is
the port water tank and #4 is the starboard tank. Usually the crossover valves between these two tanks (forward of the generator)
are open which means the level in both tanks will be the same.
To refill the tank, remove a Water Fill Cap located back near the
cockpit, one on each side. You will not need a deck key to remove
this cap (if you do need a deck key, you are removing the diesel
fuel cap!!) With the crossover valves open, you need only fill one
side to fill both tanks. Avoid flushing debris from the deck into the
tank opening. DO NOT fill water and diesel at the same time!
If you run the water system dry, be sure the water heater is off
or you will destroy this device.
Fresh Water Pressure Pump
Water pressure pump #1 is located outboard in the starboard
lazerette. Activate pump at the DC portion of the electrical panel
by turning on the breaker for “Freshwater Pump” 1. DO NOT
turn on freshwater pump #2 as you will burn up this pump. If the
water pump continues to run, you are either out of water, have an
air lock and need to bleed the system by opening up a faucet, or
you are running pump #2.
If for some reason freshwater pump #1 ceases to operate, Freshwater pump #2 is available as a backup. To use Freshwater Pump
#2, you will have to move the valve in the outboard starboard
lazerette. At this time you will need to ensure “Freshwater Pump”
(pump #1) is turned off.
Hot Water Tank
The Hot Water Tank has an 20 gallon capacity tank and is available when connected to shore power, running the generator, or via
a engine heat exchanger underway. To use on shore or generator
power, flip on the water heater circuit breaker on the AC portion
of the electrical panel. Do not use the water heater if the water
tank level is very low. The water heater is located in the engine
room, forward and outboard of the starboard engine. The heater is
well insulated and will hold hot water overnight.
Shower
Before taking a Shower, make sure water pressure and particularly the shower sump breakers are on. The best practice is to
leave the ‘Shower Sump’ on at all times. If you wish to conserve
water, take only very short “boat” showers (turning off water
between soaping up and rinsing). To keep shower tidy wipe down
the shower stall and floor. Check for accumulation of hair in the
shower and sink drains. An additional Fresh water shower is
located on the port swimstep. Ensure that the faucets and nozzle
are completely off after use, particularly on the swimstep shower.
A pressured Raw Water washdown is available from a hose
spigot in the port swim step cabinet. To activate, turn on the
“Raw Water Pump” on the 24v DC section of the electrical panel,
at the starboard cockpit, turn on the “S/W Pump” switch.
After use, turn the switches off to prevent pump burn out.
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GALLEY AND RELATED
Gaggenau Stovetop
The stovetop uses 240 volt power. First on the AC panel section, turn on ‘Transformer #1’. After that go to the very bottom
of the electrical panel and turn on the breaker marked ‘Range’ in
the ‘240 VAC Bus’ section. You must be running the generator or
have substantial shore power to use all the burners. If you are on
20 or 30 amp shore power, you will need to carefully monitor the
power draw (and not run other power consumers like the water
heater).
Microwave/Convection Oven
The microwave/convection oven is 110 volt operated and not on
inverter power. Unfortunately, this means you need be on shore
power or the generator to operate. With this in mind you will find
a number of appliances on board that operate from the 110 volt
outlets supplied by the inverter. These appliances include the coffeemaker, electric kettle, and an electric griddle. There is also a
small butane stove.
To operate, turn on the “microwave/convection oven” breaker
on the AC panel.
For the microwave:
1) Make sure the oven rack is not in the oven
2) Press the “Micro cook” button
3) Then select the cook time
4) Put the food in the oven
5) Close the door making sure the light is off
6) Press “Start”
Important hint: In our opinion, the microwave is fussy. You
must open the door, as in putting in food, after setting the cook
time, before it will start. Also, there are times when it says it is
‘Hot’ and refuses to start. Probably the door was not fully closed
and the light stayed on. In general, try closing the door smartly to
extinguish the light before pusing start.
For the convection oven:
You can use the oven rack here.
1) Press the “Cook” button
2) Select the cooking temperature
3) Then start.
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Galley Refrigerator/Freezer
The Galley Refrigerator under the counter is 110-volt powered.
Its breaker is in the Inverter Bus section of the electrical inverter
panel on the right hand side. The temperature control is below
the door in the toe kick area. As an appliance that cools, refrigerators draw considerable power. You can turn them down to the
coldest position when power is abundant then turn off when turning in for the night.
The freezer as part of the refrigerator is not very proficient. For
a much better freezer, use the holding plate unit on the fly bridge.
Salon Refrigerator and Ice maker
The Salon refrigerator, starboard side by the steps, is the same
as the galley refrigerator.
The salon Icemaker does a great job if you have the continuous
power to operate (including while underway). On the ‘Inverter
Bus’, use the ‘Icemaker’ switch and make sure the On/Off switch
just below the ice maker door is on. The icemaker will only make
ice if the bail by the tray is in the down position. If the bail is in
the up position, it will be another freezer.
Flying Bridge Ice Maker and Holding Plate Freezer
Another icemaker is on the Flying Bridge. The operation is very
similiar and the switch is also on the inverter bus and marked
(surprise) ‘Flybridge Refer/Freezer’. The Freezer part of this is a
very efficient and large holding plate freezer by the davit. According to the manufacturer, the holding plate freezer needs to
run only one hour per day to keep the contents well frozen. Please
note there are separate controls on the holding plate freezer to
turn it on. You will find them without any trouble on the starboard
end of the freezer.
Dishwasher
Overall, the dishwasher does a great job while being pretty efficient in use of water and power. With either shore or generator
power, switch on the ‘Dishwasher’ breaker on the AC panel. You
will also need hot water in the water heater. One caution; do not
press the “Water Heat” button as the wash cycle will never end.
Otherwise, it works like your dishwasher at home.
Here are the cycle times and water usage. These times include
drying.
 Light Wash
3.5 gal
64 minutes
 Normal Wash
5.3 gal
73 minutes
 Heavy Wash
7.0 gal
82 minutes
 Pots & Pans
8.8 gal
91 minutes
 Rinse/Hold
1.6 gal
14 minutes
Refrigerator temperature control
Ice maker on/off switch
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Trash Compactor
The compactor draws substantial power to operate and you
must be running the generator or on shore power to use. It does
an efficient job of reducing the volume of trash and you may be
able to put a week’s worth of trash into one compact and heavy to
carry cube.
To operate, for the first time, it should be almost full of trash so
that the compacting arm does not over extend and become stuck.
On the 110 volt AC portion of the electrical panel, turn on ‘Trash
Compactor’. Make sure the drawer is completely in and turn the
knob on the top of the compactor panel to initiate the cycle.
When the time comes to remove the bag, the right side of the
drawer unlatches and ther front panel hinges out to make the
compacted bag of trash easier to remove.
Garbage Disposal
The drain of the right hand (starboard) galley sink includes a
garbage disposal. The switch is in the cabinet below and requires
the ‘galley outlets’ be turned on (inverter bus portion of the
electrical panel). Since the discharge of the garbage disposal goes
overboard into the surrounding waters, we do not recommend its
use.
Filtered Drinking Water
The Moen faucet in the galley will provide filtered drinking
water. The steps are as follows:
• Start the water flowing
• Press the grey button on the front of the spigot
• The flow will change from the center to the front which is
filtered.
The indicator display on the spigot also shows that the water is
being filtered and the percentage of filter life remaining.
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Washer/Dryer
These appliances are pretty straightforward and also have instructions on the inside lids. You will need to be on the generator
or using shore power for this one also. The washer and dryer are
powered by 240 v power and require you activate ‘Transformer
#2’ on the AC panel. At the very bottom of the panel, along with
the ‘BBQ’ breaker, you will find the switch marked ‘Washer/Dryer’ as part of the ‘240 VAC Bus’.
The approximate washer cycle times are:
 Permanent Press 32 minutes
 Delicates
22 minutes
 Regular
32 minutes
You should know that, for the Large Load size, the water usage
is a surprising 32 gallons! We do not know what the usage is for
the other settings.
Central Vacuum
Another one of those shore power or generator situations. On
the AC panel is the breaker marked (what else) ‘Central Vac’. The
hose is in the forward stateroom, starboard side, under the first
step up by the foot of the bed. With the power on, plugging the
hose into any of the vacuum receptacles starts the vacuum. The
main vacuum motor is in the engine compartment, forward of the
starboard engine.
Storage Recommendations
In general there is a plentiful storage aboard the Lani Kai. Most
every conceivable space that could be made storage was by the
designers.
Food Storage: There is copious refrigerated storage, so here
are some recommendations for non-refrigerated storage. Besides
the obvious cabinets in the spacious galley, in the pilothouse,
all the cushions around the table lift to reveal excellent storage.
These under the cushion spaces are best used by taking out the
bottom (horizontal) cushion and not the back (vertical) cushion.
For quicker access, there is a large cabinet to the port of the TV/
stereo in the salon plus there is a quite useful storage area on the
outboard side of the steps to the staterooms, four steps down. For
canned items, like soda, etc., the lazerette is a good choice being
careful to not interfere with the steering mechanism.
General storage: There is storage under the beds in both the
forward and master stateroom in addition to the closets (six total)
and dresser drawers. The master stateroom has abundant drawers including three sides of the bed. The master head has storage
behind each and every mirror as well as numerous other cabinets.
The first few of most steps, forward stateroom, stairway to pilothouse, and steps to flying bridge, also lift to reveal some storage
usually shared with a bit of other equipment. The step right outside the bunkroom lifts for storage also. One of the forward floor
hatches accesses a large blige area however, this area possibly
could get wet. Of course, there is the quite large lazerette with the
caveat about keeping clear of the moving equipment there. For
fishing poles there is a rod holder in the cockpit ceiling as well as
lazerette spaces.
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HEATING SYSTEM
Heater control, left
Defroster control, right
Diesel Heater (DC)
The Diesel furnace is located in the port lazerette and provides
heat by circulating hot water. It is a wonderful piece of equipment
that for summer cruises you probably will not need. If you do,
turn the toggle switch located left of the wheel in the pilothouse
to “System Heat”. Everything is automatic after this. Since it is a
hot water system, it will take nearly ten minutes before the blowers at the various radiators come on. There are thermostats in each
of the staterooms and the salon. As well, each head has a manual
heater control.
Check the furnace Exhaust Port located on the outside of the
port cockpit for any obstruction such as fenders, lines or the dinghy. Do not block this opening when operating the furnace (and
when washing the boat, do not spray water into this opening).
The exhaust heat will damage fiberglass or rubber. If you are
rafted on the port side, you can not use the furnace without costly
problems to the adjacent vessel. Once the heater is on, allow it
to run for at least 15 minutes before turning it off. Turn ‘off’ the
furnace heater by turning switch back off and it will cycle through
a cool down phase before turning completely off. Remember that
this system, while diesel, does use battery power to operate the
pumps and blowers.
The diesel furnace circulates hot water through the engines as
well as the water heater. While this is barely adequate for the
water heater, it does a nice job of pre-heating the engines in cold
weather.
Engine Generated Heat
When the main engines are operating you can use their heat to
power the heating system for the living spaces. Just switch the
heater control to the lower position, “Engine Heat” and again
everything is automatically controlled by the thermostats.
Defrosters
If there is heat in the system from the diesel heater or by the
engine heat, the defrosters can be very effective. Turn on the
‘Defrosters’ switch on the electrical panel first. Then at both the
pilothouse and the flying bridge, there are rotary knobs to control
the fan speed for the defrosters. The outlet vents can be adjusted
to direct the airflow. There are three fan settings, ‘low’, ‘mid’, and
‘high’.
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ELECTRONICS
On the Lani Kai you should never suffer from a lack of information from the navigation electronics. In almost all cases there
are two or more of any instrument to provide you data. The biggest challenge might be to decide to which ones you are going to
direct your attention and to not be overloaded with information.
And, of course, remember to use the instruments as a support
rather than a substitute for looking out the windows.
Here are the important instruments you will want to turn on
via the electronics panel with a short description. More detail follows this checklist.
First turn on the ‘24 DC System’, turn on the
 ‘Electronic Main Power’ on the right hand side
Then on ‘Electronics’ bus turn on;
 F/B monitor (Ocean PC)
 12 vdc charger
 F/B Radar
 F/B VHF
 Radar
 Ships Gyro
 IS15 instruments
 GPS
 P/H VHF
Finally on the ‘Inverter Bus’ turn on the
 ‘Ocean PC’.
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VHF Radios
There are two VHF radios (three if you count the one in the
dinghy). The first is located at the top left of the pilothouse
instruments. Make sure the “P/H VHF” breaker
is on located on the “Electronics” portion of the
electrical panel. There is a second VHF radio
located on the left side of the instruments on the
flying bridge. Each has its own antenna. Turn
the flying bridge radio on by the breaker marked
‘ F/B VHF’. You are no longer required to use
call letters when calling on the VHF. Always monitor channel 16
while underway.
In the San Juan Islands Vessel Traffic Service (VTS) which
controls all commercial ships is Channel 5. The VTS people are
very helpful and can answer questions about commercial traffic or
contact commercial traffic for you, if the need arises. Commercial
vessels monitor Channel 13 and usually you will not contact them
on Channel 16. Canadian Vessel Traffic control is Channel 11.
Depth Sounders
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There are three Depth Sounders (four if you include the
dinghy):
1) the separate Simrad IS15 which displays on the
 flying bridge,
 the pilothouse, as well as
 the master stateroom,
2) a ‘Page’ as part of the Radar (see below) and
3) a forward looking sonar as part of the Ocean PC (accessed
via the ‘PC View’ program).
If the Simrad IS15 display is not on depth, try short pushes
on the lower buttons to cycle through water temperature, depth
alarms, etc. If you do not see these screens as you cycle the lower
buttons, cycle the upper buttons until you see one of the aforementioned, then only use the lower buttons. This can be a complex unit which can provide quite a lot of information however,
given the other instruments available using it as an instantaneous
depth reading is the best.
The sounders should provide reliable readings in shallow waters
and have been trouble free so far. If your reading is blinking, it is
a False reading. False readings can occur in depths of more then
200 feet, when reversing, or in areas of strong currents or tides.
Depth Sounders are usually reliable however, remember to
ALWAYS consult your charts for depth!
Radar
To operate the Simrad CA50 Radar
press and hold the ‘PWR’ button to turn
the radar on. To turn off, press and hold
‘PWR’ button about 3 seconds. To operate
this unit, you can get a quick tutorial by
pushing ‘Page’ when the unit first powers
up, however, a more cogent explanation
is below. This device is not just Radar but
includes a back up chart plotter/GPS, and
a depth sounder.
This is the important information you
need to know.
1. Radar: push and hold for two seconds the ‘Radar Tx’
button and this will commence the radar warm-up. For
‘Standby’, push and hold the same ‘Tx” button for two seconds. Another push and hold for two second, powers off the
radar. There are three states, scanning, standby and off, all
accessed by the ‘Radar Tx’ button. The Radar will do a good
job with the settings on ‘Auto’. Please note the AYC contract
restricts the operation of the vessel in poor visibility.
2. Chartplotter; press ‘Page’ and you will cycle to the chartplotter. It takes close to ten seconds for the chartplotter to
fully load. This is not nearly as good a chartplotter as the
Nobeltec. Only change map chips with the power off.
3. Echosounder; press ‘Page’ again and you will have the
depth sounder plot of the water below the boat. Depending
upon how the person before you has left these, they may be
half or full page displays. And the order may change. We recommend that you leave this instrument on Radar and use the
Ocean PC/Nobeltec for chart plotting and the Simrad IS15
for depth.
In all modes, there will be additional information along the top
of the screen. In most cases you will have position, speed and
depth data, possibly water temperature.
Global Positioning System (GPS) / Chart Plotters
There are two GPS receivers. One is part of the Simrad CA50
radar system and one is part of the Nobeltec PC system. They
are both exceptionally good 14 channel models. For the Nobeltec
program, you will need to turn on the Furuno GPS unit just under
the pilothouse throttles/shifters by pressing and holding for a few
seconds the ‘Dim/Pwr” button. The other GPS is turned on automatically as part of the Simrad CA50 system boot up.
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The Ocean PC/Nobeltec requires the electrical panel power
be turned on (‘Ocean PC’) on the inverter bus, and then lift the
pilothouse hatch starboard side between the windshield and the
seating cushions. Underneath the hatch is the Ocean PC main unit
with the power button being the one that is larger and on the left
side. After Windows fully boots up, you can start the Nobeltec
‘Visual Series’ via the on-screen shortcut. The handheld mouse
also requires turning on with the switch on its top rear. So if you
are having trouble with the mouse, first check that it is on. You
should try to remember to turn the mouse Off at the end of the
day to conserve its batteries.
If you are using the Nobeltec software after the owner, you will
find it is set up for a split screen. Typically, one screen is for a 1
mile radius around the vessel while the other is showing about a 7
mile radius. If you ‘right’ click, actually the center button on the
handheld mouse, it will bring up common options. Most likely,
you will want it on ‘autoscroll’, either ‘follow the boat’ or ‘look
ahead’.
Paper Charts
The Lani Kai is blessed with a paper copy of virtually all the
charts on the Nobeltec PC. These charts are stored in a locker
under the flying bridge helm. You can access them from the port
hatch, just to the left of the flying bridge wheel. There is a list of
the charts as an appendix at the end of this manual. One important
advantage of the paper charts is that you can look at a large area
by laying out chart on the table or such.
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Autopilot:
In the pilothouse and on the flying bridge, there are autopilot
controls. The controls are mostly intuitive.
 Pushing the ‘ Auto’ button will engage the autopilot to maintain the direction of travel at that time.
 The wheel must be positioned so that the boat is moving in a
straight line when engaging the autopilot.
 Do not use the wheel after engaging the autopilot.
 Make course corrections on the autopilot control unit only.
 The ‘Standby’ button turns off the autopilot control of the
steering.
If you are not familiar with autopilots, ask your AYC representative for a quick tutorial. The autopilot only controls steering it
cannot “see”. As the captain you have responsibility for the vessel
which means you should have the autopilot in ‘standby’ in anything except open, calm, clear water. If you are moving among
other boats, as is often the case in the San Juan and Gulf Island
channels, you should be in complete and immediate control which
means NOT using the autopilot. The autopilot will not work well
in rough seas. Do not use. In fact, it reacts slowly and is dangerous to use in anything other than calm waters.
The wonderful boating areas of the Pacific Northwest are beautiful. However, they are infested with crab pots and floating debris
including some very large, partially submerged, hard to see, logs.
A constant lookout, in addition to the captain, is mandatory. Don’t
let the use of the autopilot divert attention from looking for and
avoiding these near constant hazards.
Flying Bridge Instruments
The Flying Bridge Radar and Ocean PC are slave monitors of
the pilothouse instruments. After bringing up all the pilothouse
instruments, turn on the F/B Radar by pressing the ‘PWR’ button
if it is not on already and the F/B Ocean PC monitor by pressing
the ‘O’ button. The handheld mouse will work with the Ocean PC
from the flying bridge and there are some velcro strips which help
to keep track of the mouse up there. If you have trouble with the
electronic compass, try turning off and back on “Ships Gyro”.
Caution: Never manually steer with the autopilot
engaged. You WILL damage
the steering equipment in an
expensive way.
Extra Caution: Do not
use the autopilot in moderate to heavy seas. It can
only react not anticipate and
you will do a much better,
and safer, job steering.
RECOMMENDATION ON WHICH INSTRUMENT
TO USE WHERE:
You have ample opportunity to confuse yourself with all the
information on the Lani Kai. The Ocean PC alone can have sonar/
depth sounder, engine monitoring, camera and the Nobeltec chart
plotter programs all active. Having all these programs running
will bog down the microprocessor and greatly increase the risk of
one of those infamous Microsoft blue screens. Our strong recommendation is that you use
 the Ocean PC for the Nobeltec GPS/chart plotting
program,
 Simrad CA50 (the large screen to the left of the Ocean PC)
for radar, and
 get your Depth data from the Simrad IS15 display.
This way you should have the information you want and need
instantly available at a glance, while having time to relax and
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watch for logs and crab pots in the water.
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS
Preamplifier/ControlSystem
The preamplifier/control system has two separate remotes; one
for the salon speakers and one for the other five zones. Use the
white remotes to select the desired source. Then it operates like a
normal car radio or stereo system.
In the salon there are five speakers and a subwoofer and there
are two (stereo) speakers each on the bridge, pilothouse, master
stateroom, bunkroom, and forward stateroom. Each zone has
its own local volume control which is a brown wall plate with a
brown volume control. The individual zone volume controls can
only be turned up as loud as the master volume is up on the white
remote (i.e. the brown controls are attenuators).You can access
different sources in the salon than the other five zones.
Of course, you want to make sure the ‘Stereo’ breaker is active
on the electrical panel (Inverter bus) before attempting to use the
system. And remember that stereo and televisions are power users
equivalent to about eight electric light bulbs.
AM/FM Radio
Use the white remote to select the correct source for that area
(salon or the other zones). Generally, the radio reception in the
islands is poor but you may get lucky.
CD Players
There are two CD changer units; on is located as part of the
main stereo preamplifier and the second is a dedicated 400 disc
unit on the shelf below. The Sony unit on the shelf below is
selected by ‘Aux’ on the preamplifier. To remove the CD changer
cartridge in the preamplifier, push the eject button.
TV
A TV and VCR are stored in the entertainment cabinet in the
salon. To use, you must have the ‘salon outlets’ turned on. This
switch is on the ‘inverter bus’. Of course, there is a remote for
this unit, one of the many on board. The TV sound will play
through the small TV speakers or as part of the stereo system.
Direct (Satelite) TV
Make sure on the electronics bus the “Satellite TV” breaker is
on. The TV needs to be on Channel 3 and you must turn on the
Direct TV receiver. If hills block the sattelite reception to the
south you may not get reception.
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DVD/VHS
The Go Video DVD player and VHS player has its own remote
and operates like any similar device you have at home. For the
sound to play through the stereo system, that system needs to be
on ‘Video 2’.
Games Input
There are jacks at the bottom of the TV for PlayStation, Xbox,
etc. connections.
You can play the audio locally through the TV speakers or play
the audio through the main stereo system if that system is set to
‘Video 1’.
iPod/MP3 Player Input
There is a stereo headphone type jack, male connector, on wires
on top of the main stereo unit. It is labeled so it should be easy
to find. Just plug an iPod or similar device into this and from the
Zone 1 (Salon) remote control select ‘Tape’ as a source. If you
wish for this to play also in the other zones (flying bridge, pilothouse, all three staterooms), you must select ‘Tape’ from the Zone
2 remote as well.
ANCHORING
The primary Anchor is a formidable 66 pound CQR and is attached to an impressive 400 ft of chain passed through the deck
from the anchor locker The locker can be accessed through either
hatch on the sides of the windlass.
The Windlass controls are three places (flying bridge, pilothouse, and bow) with the power switch located on the Electronics
Panel near the Thruster and Davit switches. There is a breaker for
the windlass in the engine room above the tool box which you
should never need use.
Deploying the Anchor
To turn on the Windlass control in either the pilothouse or the
flying bridge, with the main Windlass control on, press the ’O’
button. From that station, you can control the Windlass with the
up and down arrow buttons or use the controls out by the windlass. The ‘M’ button refers to memories and is best left alone.
Both the Windlass control in the pilothouse and the flying bridge
have readouts of the chain counter, another marvelous device.
Generally, the anchor will not extend out of the pulpit without
someone on the bow helping pull it out a few feet. And the chain
is not powered out by the windlass but allowed to extend by the
windlass while dropping by gravity. If the windlass spins and the
Calculating scope can be
tricky. The Lani Kai depth
sounders are about 5 feet below
the water line. The anchor
windlass is about eight feet
from the waterline. Remember
the anchor counter is at the
windlass. So if the depth
sounder said 13 feet at low
tide, you might think 80 feet
of chain is enough (about 6:1).
But the real water depth is 18
feet and adding the distance to
the windlass sums to 31 feet or
less than 3:1. Add to this a tide
change of plus 9 feet at high
tide for a total of 40 feet to the
bottom and the real scope at
high tide will be a scary 2:1.
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Anchor Chain Markings
50’ – White
100’ – White
150’ – White
200’ – White
250’ – White
300’ – White / Red
325’ – Red
350’ – Red
375’ – Solid Red
400’ – Solid Red
Caution: All windlass
operations are potentially
dangerous. It is a powerful
motor moving heavy chain and
anchors. Make sure you give
the windlass proper clearance
and respect and keep children
away.
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chain is not dropping out, most likely the chain is snagged down
in the chain locker. Stop the windlass and clear the problem.
You will have less chain problems if you flake the chain in upon
retrieval
If you need to ‘zero’ the anchor counter, hold in the ‘O’ button
for more than five seconds. It will beep until it zeros the counter.
In general, the counter is very accurate however there also is paint
on the anchor every fifty feet.
To operate the windlass at the bow, tap gently on the ‘down’
foot control to lower the anchor. If necessary, guide the anchor
over the anchor roller to prevent binding on the pulpit.
Let out sufficient Anchor Rode before setting the anchor. Back
the anchor in with a short burst in reverse from the engine. Then
let out additional scope dependent upon conditions.
Anchor Bridle
There are anchor bridle lines in the forward hatch. Anchor
bridles
♦ take the strain off the windlass,
♦ help insulate the boat from the sounds of the chain dragging
over rocks, and
♦ increases the scope by lowering the effective “pull point” of
the rode.
Put the hook around the chain by the pulpit, secure the other
end to the forward cleat, then let out more chain until the hook
is near the waterline. This is best done with a few crew members
to tension the bridle line so that the hook does not fall free. You
should always use a bridle in inclement weather.
Raising the Anchor
Before raising the anchor, ALWAYS start the engines as the
windlass uses large amounts of power and you want the complete boat control. Turn ‘on’ the Windlass Switch and as the boat
moves toward the anchor, press the ‘up’ control to take up slack
line. Give the windlass short rests as you are pulling it up and
use the engines to move the boat rather than strain the windlass.
Place yourself in position to guide the anchor onto the roller. As
the anchor rises, be careful not to allow it to swing against the
hull. If the anchor seems stuck, move the boat forward. Do not try
to force with the windlass.
As the chain comes in you will want to clean the seaweed and
wash the mud off before it goes into anchor locker. To wash off
the chain, turn on the ‘Raw water pump’ on the 24v DC section of
the electrical panel, then at the starboard cockpit, near the engine
room door, turn on the ‘S/W pump’ switch. With these switches
on, you can use the hose in the starboard forward hatch by the
windlass to wash the anchor chain. To prevent burning up the raw
water pump, be sure and turn this pump off.
Finally, close the plastic covers on the Foot Pedal Controls.
Turn ‘off’ the Windlass Power Switch on the electrical panel (and
the raw water pump).
A spare Danforth Anchor is normally stowed in the starboard
bow hatch. The 250 ft Spare Anchor line is located in lazerette in
a rectangular plastic bin labeled anchor line. This line is white and
gold. Attach the rode securely to the chain shackle and ensure
that the bitter end, the opposite end of the line from the anchor,
is securely tied to the boat (otherwise you will find out why it is
called the bitter end).
A Stern Tie line is in the lazerette on a black spool. This yellow
line floats and is 300 feet long.
Washing the Anchor
Chain: It is important to
wash the anchor chain, not
only to keep dirt from the
anchor locker but smelly
stuff as well.
Mooring Buoys
The Lani Kai is larger than allowed for the State of Washington
mooring buoys (45 foot limit or less). If you do anyway, mooring cans have a metal triangle at the top upon which is a metal
ring. The metal ring is attached to a chain that extends down to
the buoy anchor block. Lifting the ring means lifting the chain,
which is VERY heavy. The strongest member of your crew
should be picked for this job. Another complication is that the
bow of the Lani Kai is high which mean lifting a lot of chain.
The better way is to pick up the buoy on the stern, away from the
props (!) on the cockpit side, and walk the line to the bow.
BARBECUE
The upper bridge barbecue is 240v electric powered. Thus you
must be on shorepower or running the generator to use this BBQ
and energize the appropriate 240 volt transformer. While such an
appliance has some disadvantages, the advantages are that it heats
up fast so you don’t have to plan far ahead. If you treat it with the
safety considerations of a stove top, including not closing the top
while on or hot, you will be fine.
Since this barbecue is on the upper bridge, if the dinghy is
stored also on the upper bridge, you have a source of gasoline
fairly close to the BBQ. Prudence calls for not using the BBQ
unless the dinghy is down in the water. In other words, ensure
gasoline and flammable materials are not near the barbecue.
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DINGHY DAVIT & OUTBOARD MOTOR
Davit Operation
The Lani Kai has a Rendova dinghy with a steering console,
VHF, CD radio, fishfinder/depth sounder and enclosed 16 gallon
gas tank. It is stored bow to Port on the upper bridge chocks with
stops.
Lowering and raising the dinghy is a job for a minimum of
three adult type people. You should prepare by having fenders
ready on the port side, then turning the ‘Davit’ switch on from
the ‘Engine Battery Bank’ part of the electrical panel. Since this
is on the engine battery bank, as is the windlass, the best practice
is to have the main engines running when raising the dinghy. The
easiest way to do this, is to start the engines, and while they are
warming, stow the dinghy.
In the salon drawer, you will find the davit control. This control
plugs into the lower part of the davit and has somewhat fragile
electrical pins. Be sure and have the pins and keys aligned before
pushing in or you risk breaking a pin and giving yourself a problem if the dinghy is down. (The problem can be solved by using
the block and tackle stored under the upper bridge cushions and
the loop on the end of the davit. Avoid this, it takes considerable
strength and dexterity.)
The davit has two systems; one a cable winch to extend and
retract the lifting cable, and two a hydraulic system to raise and
lower the davit arm. On the davit control, “in” and “out” controls
the cable winch while “up” and “down” controls the hydraulic
arm. Note the hydraulic arm often has a lag from when the pump
runs until the arm moves.
When operating the davit, please be sure to follow these safety
precautions:
 Only have the davit power on when operating the davit.
Turn off when not in use.
 Make sure the dinghy is empty when lifting; no people,
pets, fishing gear, scuba tanks, etc.
 Never lift the dinghy over someone
 Always lift load straight up
 Ensure the cable rides in the groove of the nose roller
 Be sure the hatch to the cockpit stairs are closed and
latched before operating the davit
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Lowering the Dinghy
Here are the steps to follow to lower the dinghy. Reverse them
for raising.
1. System power on, fenders in position port side
2. Davit control plugged in
3. Detach davit tie down, check that hatch is closed
4. If not already in raised position, raise davit and swing
over center of dinghy. The davit arm should be at about
10 o’clock. Be careful not to hit the davit arm on the
bottom of the radar arch.
5. Let out the cable and attach to dinghy lifting cable. Ensure
lifting harness is securely attached to dinghy in all three
places. Keep tension on the cable to prevent loose loops
on the cable drum (important).
6. Position the boom so that retracting in the cable is a
straight up pull. You may need to use the “up” or “down”
button to change the arm angle. Watch out so that the
dinghy console wind screen does not hit the davit arm.
7. Release the dinghy tiedowns, ensure there is no extra gear
in dinghy.
8. Use the cable winch to raise the dinghy clear of the
chocks. Make sure cable in nose roller groove and make
sure the speed sensor on the stern of the dinghy is clear of
the chocks.
9. Make sure someone has a good hold on the line attached
to the bow of the dinghy. This helps control swinging.
10. Swing the dinghy out by pushing on the dinghy as this
works better than pushing on the davit. This is where you
will find it is best to have as many helpers as possible
since you will find the weight of the outboard swings out
the dingy faster than you may like.
11. When the dinghy is clear of the side of the boat, use the
cable to lower it into the water. Do NOT lower the davit
arm.
12. Lower the cable until there is slack and someone can
climb in to release the cable hook.
13. Reel in the cable, swing the davit back, and hook the
cable so the boom does not swing.
14. Remove the remote control, replace the control cover,
and turn the power off. Go fishing.
Before raising the dinghy you MUST partially raise the outboard engine. Also make SURE there is no gear in the dinghy.
Dinghy Lifting Cable
The dinghy lifting cables
attach on two eyes in the
stern by the engine and
one in the bow. All cables
should be straight or the
dingy will be cocked.
Caution:
Raising the dinghy may
be the hardest and most
dangerous task on the Lani
Kai. Be cautious and have
a group to help. It is difficult to swing the dingy and
davit back to the stored position. Use lines and strong
crew members.
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Raising the Dinghy:
It is not easy to position the
dinghy correctly on the
chocks. Allow more time for
this job the first time.
The Rendova is a hard
bottom dinghy and you
must take great care when
approaching a beach. On a
rocky beach you will inflict
expensive damage to the
bottom. Docks are the best.
We do not recommend you
beach this dinghy.
VHF Radio: As of Spring
’06, the dinghy VHF is being very troublesome. Please
use the handheld VHF when
using the dinghy.
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When raising the dinghy, again use the cable winch not the
hydraulic arm. When winching in you most likely will hear a loud
thump as the cable rolls from one layer on the drum to the next.
The davit manufacturer says this is normal.
Dinghy, Outboard Motor & Accessories
Your Rendova rigid bottom inflatable dinghy has a 40 hp 4
cycle Yamaha engine and an internal 16 gallon fuel tank. It has a
capacity of five to six people. The engine start battery is located
under the drivers seat. Outboard oil is checked by removing the
cowling and locating the dipstick. Higher up on the engine is the
oil filler cap. Use 10W-40 oil if necessary.
Coast Guard regulations state that any child 12 and under must
wear a life jacket in a dinghy. It is a good idea for everyone to
follow this rule.
Starting and Cruising
To the right of the wheel is the throttle/shift/ignition key assembly. Follow the directions there for lifting the choke/throttle when
cold starting. This lever will only lift if you are in neutral. Allow
the engine to warm up at idle for a minimum of three minutes.
To shift, you must pull up on the trigger under control lever
handle. Engine trim controls are on the side of this same handle.
To lower the bow, press the lever portion marked “DN” and to
raise the bow us the part marked “UP”. If the dinghy porpoises
the bow is up too much.
There is a tachometer with a Low Oil Pressure warning light as
well as a Overheat Warning indicator at the bottom of this gauge.
It is prudent to use the engine stop lanyard around your wrist if
operating the dinghy alone.
VHF Radio, CD Stereo and Fishfinder
The dinghy is equipped with a Raytheon VHF radio with push
to talk and channel controls on the separate microphone. The “16
plus” button takes you directly and immediately to channel 16.
The “1/25” button is for low power (1 watt and displayed on the
LCD) versus high power (25 watt, no display).
The JVC CD/radio stereo is a marine version of a car stereo.
The detachable face plate should be in the top salon drawer.
The basic functions are:
 Power; upper left, small button. When you select a source
power comes on automatically and you do not need to push
this button
 Volume; left center two part button marked “+” and “-“.
 Sources; lower right corner, marked “AM”, “FM” and “CD”
 Search; either stations or tracks, use the two part button just
to the right of the volume
 Faceplate; unlocks with the lower, right bottom push button.
Install faceplate by first putting left side into groove and
rotating in right side.
The Raytheon L265 fishfinder/depth sounder has most of its
functions automated to make your life easier. Here are the important functions:
 Power; press the “PWR” button once to turn on. Hold for
three seconds to turn off
 Modes; push “Page”, the center of the scroll control, to
change modes. The modes are
 Fishfinder; standard mode with good bottom coverage
 Zoom; magnified view of smaller bottom section
 A-scope; detailed view of right under transducer
 Digital; depth in large numbers
 Setup; accesses menu for over-riding auto operation. Also
available are menus for two frequency choices; wide band
50 kHz and narrower band 200 kHz. Dual frequency uses
both yet only displays one for the image on the display. Fish
symbols are solid with 200 kHz and hollow with 50 kHz.
When fishes show on the display, the number above them is
their depth. The fishfinder display is the default mode as is auto
ranging and auto sensitivity. In general, the default modes are
recommended.
Towing the Dinghy
There is a tow bridle in the lazerette in an orange mesh bag.
Towing a dinghy is most convenient when you are going very
short distances from one anchorage to another like in Desolation Sound. However, towing a dinghy is fraught with its own
problems. There is the risk of the line and the propeller becoming acquainted plus there is the risk of somehow losing the (more
than you think) expensive dinghy.
When towing your dinghy, you will need to adjust the length
of the line so that it rides in a stable part of the boat’s wake. This
may vary with your cruising speed. Any time that you slow down
or stop, always keep it tight to the side of the boat. Assign one
of your crew members as the “dinghy” person to be responsible
for taking up slack as you enter a harbor or anchorage. You don’t
want to wrap a propeller nor have the dinghy swing one way
when you are moving the Lani Kai another.
The towing bridle attaches to two cleats on the
swim step and the bow eye
on the dinghy.
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Crabbing & Fishing
Always check the fishing and crabbing requirements before you
leave on your cruise. You will need a license in Washington State
for both fishing and crabbing. Unfortunately these days, many
areas are closed to crabbing and fishing on certain months. Ask
an expert or get a booklet where you procure the license as the
regulations can be complicated and confusing.
Use crab pots away from the boat! Lines can get wrapped
around props. Fish-flavored cat food with the pop-up ringed lids
work the best for a nice neat way to bait the ring or trap. If you
are using a ring, after 15-20 minutes, retrieve the crab line and
ring quickly. Measure the crabs using the crab measuring gage:
normally located in the salon top drawer Keep only the male
crabs of proper size (usually 6 ¼ inches across the carapace).
Boil crabs about 12 minutes to cook.
After using, wash equipment thoroughly with fresh water
(available from the cockpit shower faucet or cockpit sink). Note
-- Please do not store wet rings and gear inside the boat. Please
allow to dry before storing in the lazerette.
Bait Tank
As part of the cockpit there is a bait tank (with a light no less).
To fill this tank turn on the “Raw Water Pump” on the 24v part
of the electrical panel, then the “S/W pump” by the engine room
door. Then use the faucet in the tank. The tank drains out a thruhull valve in the lazerette, rear starboard side which is marked.
SAFETY
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This is a vacation and it is easy to forget about what may mar
your fun. However, Safety should be paramount in your daily
cruising. A MAN OVERBOARD DRILL should be discussed, at
least, and perhaps even practiced with a life jacket. In the cockpit
there is a throwable life ring. If you have, or ever do, practice a
man overboard, the main lessons nearly everyone learns are how
hard it is to
 see people in the water
 throw a ring very far
 get people back on the boat.
Secondly, everyone in the boat should have a basic understanding of the radio and know how to give a Mayday call. Mayday
calls are made on channel 16. The procedure is:
(press the mic button)
Mayday -- Mayday-- Mayday
This is the Lani Kai-- Lani Kai-- Lani Kai
Mayday -- Lani Kai
Our position is (lattitude/ longitude or major landmark)
We are (nature of distress; fire, sinking, etc)
There are ___ people on board. (And nature of injuries if
appropriate)
(Nature of assistance and seaworthiness of boat)
The Lani Kai is a 58 feet white with blue trim pilothouse motoryacht
I will be listening on channel 16
This is the Lani Kai-- Mayday
Over (release the mic button)
Remember your lifejackets are stowed under the cushions of the
flying bridge. Your flares and other safety equipment are located
in the salon cabinet to the left of the television.
BILGE PUMPS
The Lani Kai is equipped with four automatic bilge pumps.
The switches are located on the special panel with a diagram of
the boat to the lower left of the pilothouse wheel. Normally, the
switches will be left in the AUTO position. You may occasionally
hear the engine room pump operate however if other pumps run
or any bilge pumps run for more than 15 or 20 seconds, investigate immediately.
An hand operated bilge pump is in the engine room by the forward bulkhead. The handle is about 10 inches long and just to the
left of the pump. This is used only in emergency situations.
SPARE PARTS
The engine spares boxes (clear plastic with blue top) are stowed
forward of the port fuel tank in the engine room. This includes
filters, raw water impeller, pump parts, injectors, and other small
parts.
Have a lovely vacation aboard the
Lani Kai!
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Charts Stored Upper Bridge
Folder Chart Chart Discription
Section Number
Strip Chart
A
18441
Puget Sound - North
x
B
18448
Puget Sound - South
x
C
3415
Victoria Harbor
x
D
3440
Race Rocks to Cordova Bay
x
E
3441
Haro Strait, Boundary Pass to
Satellite Channel*
x
F
3442
North Pender to Thetis Island*
x
G
3443
Thetis Island to Nanaimo
x
H
3481
Approaches to Vancouver Harbor
x
IJ
3512
Strait of Georgia - Central Part
x
K
3513
Strait of Georgia - Northern Part
x
L
3514
Jevis Inlet
x
M
3526
Howe Sound
x
N
3527
Baynes Sound
(Denman, Hornby, Comox & Comox Bar)
x
O
3535
Malaspina Strait
x
PQ
3538
Desolation Sound
x
R
3539
Discovery Passage, Quadra Island
x
S
3540
Approaches to Campbell River
x
T
3541
Approaches to Toba Inlet
x
UV
3542
Bute Inlet
x
W
3555
Rendoda Islands & Loughborough Inlet
x
XYZ
3559
Malaspina Inlet
x
86
Gulf Islands, British Columbia
x
3311
Sunshine Coast
3312
Jervis Inlet & Desolation Sound
18423
Bellingham to Everett
x
18445
Puget Sound Possession Sound to Olympia, Hood Canal
x
*have 2 copies
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Paper Chart
Chart
Book
x
x
Thru- Hull Locations
43
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