Ganapatis off the beaten track

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Ganapatis off the
beaten track
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Ganapati of the Fort of Colaba n
Erandol, Ajra n
Kankeshwar, Alibag n
Khinditala Ganapati, Pune n
Limbaganesh, Beed n
Lakshavinayak, Ellora n
Morayacha Dhonda, Malvan n
Nandigram, Nandgaon n
Nidrist, Avhane n
Pokharbav, Deogad n
Binkhambi Ganapati, Kolhapur n
Siddhivinayak, Turambe n
Ganesha of Inchanal n
Ganapati of Bhorgiri n
Vainayaki, Bhuleshwar n
Sadhumaharaj Ganapati, Kandhar n
Siddhivinayak of Kadav n
Trikut Ganapati, Nanded n
Trimukhi Ganesha, Burondi n
Dhundivinayak, Wai n
Classified
(60X30mm)
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60 (w) x 30 (h) mm
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Award winning Quarterly Magazine
Volume 4 | Issue 3 - 2015 | MAHARASHTRA UNLIMITED
95
Chambal-Ujjain-Tanjore-Gokak, and finally
reached a holy man called Raghunath Shastri
in Sankeshwar. Following a celestial vision, he
took it to the ashram of Pokharkar Maharaj.
How to get there
However, the initial proximity of the idol was
an overwhelming experience for Pokharkar
maharaj as its aura was much too strong for
him to bear. But Pokharkar Maharaj’s guru
assured him that nothing untoward would
happen, that the idol was where it was meant
to be. Sure enough the early troubles stopped
and Pokharkar Maharaj became comfortable in
the presence of the idol. He went on to build a
temple to house the idol.
Tourist attractions:
This temple does not follow the usual practice
of breaking a coconut and distributing it as
Prasad (or holy food.) Instead, the Prasad
served here is a delicious concoction of
jaggery-coconut and groundnut.
If ever there was a visionary who was
far sighted enough to realise that both
the protection of the Maratha Swarajya
(self-rule) and privacy of the Western
Coast depended upon a well-armed naval
force and water fortress from which to
spot the approaching enemy ships, it was
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. And thus,
he built the Fort of Colaba off Navghar, an
island near Alibaug. The name Colaba is an
amalgamation of different words: ‘Kul’ that
means whole and ‘Aap’ that signifies water.
Sure enough, the Fort of Colaba rests on an
island surrounded by water on all sides.
After Shivaji, it was the naval commander
Kanhoji Angre, who with his courage, valour
and eye for detail, took charge of the fort.
With this impressive fort as his base, he
went all out to build for the Marathas a Navy
that could hold its own against the best in
the world.
While it’s common enough to have Ganesha
installed at the entrance of the fort, given his
status as the remover of obstacles, this Fort
is famous for the Ganesha Panchayatan,
that is temple of Ganapati along with
Shiva, Durga, Vishnu and the Sun God. This
Panchayatan has a massive compound with
three east-facing temples.
Ganapati of the
Fort of Colaba
Ashutosh Bapat
Photographs © Parag Purandare
The author is an avid trekker and history
enthusiast and can be reached at
[email protected]
As for Siddhivinayak himself, he is amply
bedecked and well-armed. As soon as
you climb down the temple steps, you
are greeted by the greenery of the TulsiVrundavan plant.
So when you go to the Fort of Colaba, be
sure to visit this unique temple. Of course,
given its coastal nature, you have to keep in
mind the hours of the high tide and low tide.
Whatever date as per Hindu calendar you
decide upon, just whittle the number down
to 3/4ths to come upon the hours of high
tide. Similarly if you were to simply add or
minus 6 from derived time of high tide, you
would know the hours of low tide that are
suitable for a visit. However, it is always a
good idea to check the date with the locals.
Right in front of this group of temples there
is a fresh water lake. In 1759, Raghuji Angre
installed a marble idol of Siddhivinayak that
is 45cm in height with its trunk towards
the right. To the right of this idol, there is
a four-armed Shiva, even as a four armed
idol of the Sun God rests at the back. To
the left of Ganesha, is the image of the
Mahishasurmardini Goddess Durga, and in
front is an image of Lord Vishnu.
96
As we traverse the assorted and wondrous
territory of the state of Maharashtra,
here’s putting the spotlight on a region as
complex as it is lovely; namely the Ajra
taluka in Kolhapur District. A veritable
study in contrast, this region, on the one
hand, is blessed with a natural beauty that
is enviable, complete with rich and diverse
Fauna and Flora, to say nothing of the many
benefits of being located close to the tourist
friendly region of Amboli. The other side of
the story, however, is grimmer; the region
is not easily accessible and is witness to
several attacks from the wild elephants of
Tillari and the ensuing destruction of life
and property.
MAHARASHTRA UNLIMITED | Volume 4 | Issue 3 - 2015
How to get there:
From Mumbai: 92 kms by road; similarly there are
ferry services to Alibaug. Ahead of Alibaug is another
tour worthy spot Kankeshwar.
Nearest rail route: Pen on Konkan Railways
Nearest bus route: Alibaug
Tourist attractions
Sasawane: At a distance of 18 kms, Saswane is
home to noted sculptor Nanasaheb Karmarkar’s
museum of idols. These skillfully carved idols are
almost lifelike.
Kankeshwar: If you should like to combine the
joys of a trek with a holy purpose, then head to the
village called Mapgaon, 10 kms from Alibaug. There,
on a hillock stands the temple of Kankeshwar. Steps
lead up to the temple. There is also a clean reservoir
called Brahmakund where you could take a dip.
In short, this region has a deeply mysterious
and off-beat quality that is attractive and
compelling to tourists. Adding considerably
to the aura is the Ichchapurti Ganesha of
Erandol-Ajra, which is also of somewhat
mysterious origin. This idol resides inside
the Octagonal temple within the premises
of the Ashram of Pokharkar Maharaj. The
ashram also has two other constructions: a
temple dedicated to Vitthal-Rukhmini, and
the Samadhi of Rishi Jabali. The temple,
which has been built from the contributions
of devotees, also has a water reservoir in
front of it that makes it the perfect place
to pray and meditate. Eight idols from the
Ashtavinayak are placed in eight corners,
even as the sanctum sanctorum has a
16 armed, right trunked, standing image
of Ganesha made from Panchadhatoo
(five metals). The rituals associated with
the idol are very strict and apart from the
priest, no one else may enter the sanctum
sanctorum.
From Mumbai: 470 kms by road
Nearest rail route: Konkan Railway Sawantwadi
Nearest bus route: Ajra.
Amboli: The favourite tourist destination of the
Konkan, blessed with nature’s bounties and cool
climes, is just 10 kms from here. Clean, green and
serene, complete with the Hiranyakeshi River, it
also boasts of the Fort of Pargad. There are several
resorts that make for a comfortable and pleasurable
stay.
Sawantwadi: The greatest legacy of Raja Khem
Sawant, Sawantwadi is a place that is blessed with
both natural beauty and heritage. The royal family
continues to reside here; particularly noteworthy is
the museum. Other tour-worthy spots include Moti
Talav, Chitar Ali and the distinctive wooden toys sold
in the main market.
Several devotees have had their deepest
wishes fulfilled after paying their respects to
the deity; hence the name Icchapurti Ganesha
(the Ganesha who fulfills wishes.) He is also
known as Mokshadevta Ganesha (the Ganesha
who helps you reach salvation).
Every Sankashti (day dedicated to the prayers
of Ganesha) sees thousands of devotees
thronging to the temple from Karnataka, Goa
and Western Maharashtra.
Ichchhapurti Ganesha of
Erandol, Ajra
Ashutosh Bapat
Photographs © Yogesh Prabhudesai
There is a most interesting story that
tells of how the idol reached its present
destination. Apparently this idol first
belonged to practitioners of Tantric rituals!
It then travelled from the ashram of a Rishi
of the Chambal region, travelled across
97
himself would stop over to pay their respects at
this holy place for the Lord’s blessings. So be
it Madhavrao Peshwa paying a visit to the Lord
before the famous battle of Rakshasbhuvan
or the second Baji Rao praying for a son, this
temple has had a long and faithful innings in
the ethos of Maharashtra.
The Kankeshwar temple is located atop a
hill at Mapgaon. Just 10 kms away from
Alibaug.
800 steps lead to this temple, which enjoys
a very scenic location indeed. As you climb
each step, you can’t help but revel in the
beauty of your surroundings.
Ramchandra Pant Amatya, an expert
on the political beliefs and principals of
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, famous for
writing the volume Agyapatra, found
himself caught in the middle of a struggle
between the Chatrapati Shahu, the son of
Chatrapati Sambhaji maharaj and Tarabai.
Unwilling to take sides, he renounced the
world and spent the last days of his life in
Kankeshwar.
Kankeshwar is actually the place dedicated
to Shiva, what with its naturally formed
shivalinga. However, it also has an
impressive idol of Ganesha.
The Kankeshwar temple is West facing.
Historical records say that it was built by
Ramchandra, the elder son of Ganesha
Shastri Joshi of Karhad on the occasion
of Jeshta Vadya Chaturthi in 1798.
Later on Ramchandra took the name of
Thathaswami Lambodaranand. This same
swami Lambodaranand also a devotee of
Bhagwan Parshuram was given a small
and beautiful idol of Lakshmi Ganesha and
instructed to go and perform penance at
Kankeshwar.
Ganesha at
Kankeshwar temple
Ashutosh Bapat
temple to the left of his final resting place.
However, since he was asked not to worship
this Ganesha by Parshuram, he brought
another idol from Gopalrao Mairal of Baroda
and had it installed in the temple with full
rituals.
The idol given by Parshuram to Swami
Lambodaranand was locked away inside
a copper box, and a replica of the same
created for the devotees’ worship.
The marble idol of Ganesha which is
worshipped is about 3 feet tall. The idols of
Riddhi-Siddhi are next to the main idol.
An annual janmotsav is celebrated
from Vaishakh Shuddh Dwadashi to
Pournima.
Similarly, Swami Lambodaranand’s
punyatithi is observed during
Jeshta vadya Saptami.
When Swamiji took Samadhi (voluntarily
giving up life on believing one’s work to be
complete), his follower Shri Bapat built a
98
How to get there:
It is just about 92 kms from Mumbai by road. It is 10
kms away from Alibaug.
Nearest rail route: Pen on Konkan railway
Nearest bus-route: Alibaug
Tourist attractions
Alibaug: The Fort of Colaba which was the stronghold
of the naval commander and warlord Kanhoji Angre
is the numero uno attraction for visitors. The Fort
served as an important bastion in the Maratha quest
for naval supremacy over the Konkan waters.
Saswane: 18 kms from Alibaug, Saswane is noted for
the idol museum set up by Nanasaheb Karmarkar.
Thousands of sculpted idols created by him are
housed here. What is especially striking about them
is that they seem almost alive.
Whenever there is a mention of the Ganapati
temples in Pune, the first few instances that
come to mind are the Kasaba Ganapati,
Dagdusheth Halwai, the Ganapati temple at
Sarasabaug etc as they are the most famous
and witness the maximum number of crowds
in the 10 days of the Ganapati Festival.
However, if one were to look beyond, there
is yet another name that stands out for its
sheer history and longevity; a temple that
has commanded the respect of devotees
from the era of Chhatrapati Shivaji
himself: the Parvatinanandan Ganapati of
Ganeshkhind, more popularly known as
Khindicha Ganapati. A temple that has
been associated with several legends and
moments in history.
History says that this temple was built by
none other than the King’s Mother Jijabai
following a celestial vision. Apparently,
Jijabai was on her way to worship Lord
Someshwar in Pashan; it is here that she
met a Brahmin who was busy meditating
on the Lord’s name. With the blessings of
this holy man, she was able to see an image
of Lord Ganesha in the shrubbery. And
thus, she went ahead and constructed the
Temple. Just like the Kasba Ganapati, this
temple too houses an old and historic idol.
However, with time the temple began to
show the effects of wear and tear. A Brahmin
from Pashan, Shivram Bhatta Chitrav took
it upon himself to restore and renovate
the temple. In the course of the renovation
and cleaning process, the workers chanced
upon a hidden treasure in the well within the
temple premises.
Take for instance, the Contractor Ranade
family of Kivle that never fails to send newly
married couples to worship the Lord; this early
visit to the Temple immediately following their
nuptials is known as Ohar. Folklore has it that
such occasions would also be marked by a
festive meal. Once, when the entire family was
gathered for such a meal, a senior member
of the family had a vision featuring Ganapati
himself that the place would soon be ransacked
by dacoits. Acting upon the warning, the elderly
person hurriedly asked the family to leave the
scene. Sure enough, the dacoits did turn up,
but were sorely disappointed not to see any
rich wedding party they could loot.
How to get there
Distance from Mumbai 160 kms
Closest rail and bus station: Pune
A chance to tour the historically and culturally
noted city of Pune; also known as the Oxford
of the East. From the Shaniwarwada to Parvati,
Vishrambaugwada to the Raja Kelkar Museum to
several noted city eateries that cater to assorted
palates, Pune is a city to be explored and enjoyed on
several levels, as it has something to offer everyone.
The year 1897 was witness to the murder by
the Chaphekar Brothers of Commissioner Rand
whose atrocities upon the citizens of Pune
had crossed all boundaries. The Chaphekar
brothers chalked out the plan of this murder
in the same premises of this temple. After
killing Rand, Damodar Hari Chaphekar sent a
coded message to none other than Lokmanya
Tilak through the person of Khanderao Sathe:
“Khinditla Ganapati Navasla Pavla,” which
simply translated means, The Ganapati of
Khindi has been appeased.
Similarly, Senapati Bapat, while underground
from the British, sought refuge here.
The Ganapati at
Ganeshkhind
(Khindicha Ganapati) Pune
Text and Photographs © Ashutosh Bapat
Chitrav reported the treasure to Bajirao
Peshwa himself, (who held the reigns of
power then). However, Bajirao refused to
accept the treasure as it had come from so
holy a place.
But the treasure was eventually put to good
use in the construction of the Omkareshwar
Temple in the Peth areas as well as the
Khindicha Ganapati.
Khindicha Ganapati is famous for its
4 foot tall idol of a seated Lord Ganesha,
smeared in sindoor, with his trunk slanting
towards the left.
All the Peshwas, starting with Bajirao
99
How to get there
The temple is well-fortified with strong walls
on all sides. There is a water tank in the vicinity
of the temple called Chandrapushkarani. Near
this tank is a Samadhi that is said to belong
to Limbasur.
Distance from Mumbai: 310 kms
Nearest rail-route: Aurangabad
Nearest bus route: Aurangabad
It is customary to visit this temple before
proceeding to visit the Ganesha temple of
Parali Vaijanath. Festivities and prayers
associated with the Lord commence from the
Hindu month of Bhadrapad.
Aurangabad is best known as the city of gates.
The fifth most important city in the state, it enjoys
the well-deserved reputation of being the Tourism
Capital of Maharashtra. Even as it has a lot of
attractions for lovers of history and culture, it is best
known for the Fort of Daulatabad and stone caves.
The temple management has created a
website called www.shreebhalchandra.com
for those interested in further information on
the temple and its history.
All of Maharashtra is a veritable delight
for both tourists and connoisseurs of
culture. The landscape is dotted with
forts, pilgrimage spots, temples, eateries,
parks, museums and so much more. Given
this fact, why would Marathwada be an
exception to this rule?
With deep and varied socio-cultural roots
nourished by major dynasties down history
from the Satvahanas and Rashtrakutas to the
Yadavas, the region has a lot to offer by way
of tourist attractions. This region has borne
witness to assorted political influences
progressing from the Bahamanis (1330 to
1480) to the Nijamshahi of Ahmednagar
rule, to the Mughal and subsequently the
Maratha dominance. In 1729 C.E, Bajirao
Peshwa I defeated the Mughal rulers and
hence commenced the rule of Marathi
Empire. Ranganathrao Kanetkar became
the first revenue collector of this region,
followed by Vyankaji and Ganesha Vyankaji.
Holding pride of place amidst the 67
Ganesha spots in the region is the
Limbaganesh Temple.
Since the image of Limbaganesh is said
to have been founded by the Moon God
(Chandradev) himself, the Ganesha is also
known as Shri Bhalchandra. The temple
is located 11 kms from the village of
Manjarsumbha on the Ahmednagar-Beed
Highway. This beautiful image of Ganesha,
housed in this East-facing temple, is about
2 feet in height, redolent of sindoor and
self-formed. Moraya Gosavi has praised
and described the beauty and significance
of the temple and its deity in the finest
poetry. It is mentioned that the reputed
100
An ancient legend tells of a demon called
Limbasur who had wreaked havoc in the lives
of the locals; tormented and frightened, they
prayed to Lord Ganesha to deliver them from
this evil. Sure enough, Ganesha confronted
and slayed the demon in the course of an
intense battle; as he lay dying Limbasur
regretted his wickedness, sought refuge in
the Lord and asked that the place be named
after him. Ganesha granted his wish, and the
temple came to be known in the memory of
this demon who repented his actions.
Interestingly, the Limbaganesh is the family
deity of India’s iconic mathematician
Bhaskaracharya.
The engraved inscription at the entrance
says that the temple was renovated by
Bhavanidas Bhusari in 1930. Complete
with a stone tortoise, water body, and
circumambulatory Path (pradakshina
marg), and beautiful line-up of lights, the
temple is a joy to behold.
The stone caves of Verul
The Ellora caves aka the Verul Leni are
located on the Aurangabad-Chalisgaon road
at a distance of 30 km north-northwest of
Aurangabad, the district headquarters. The
name Ellora itself inspires everyone as it
represents one of the largest rock-hewn
monastic-temple complexes in the entire
world. Ellora is also world famous for the
largest single monolithic excavation in the
world, the great Kailasa temple (Cave 16)
and is a UNESCO world heritage site.
Limbaganesh Temple
(Shree Bhalchandra
Ganesha Mandir)
saint-teacher from the Mahanubhav Panth
Shri Chakradhar Swami has also visited this
temple.
Ghrishneshwar: The Mahadev temple enjoys the
status of being amongst the 12 jyotirlingas of
Shiva.
How to get there:
Nearest Rail-route: Parali Vaijanath
Nearest bus route: Beed
Tourist attractions
Ambejogai: This city houses the temple of
Yogeshwari Devi, and the samadhis of noted poet
Mukundraj and Sant Dasopant. The Kholeshwar
Mandir with its wonderful inscription on its inner wall
is a must to visit. Also some more rock inscriptions
can be seen in this town. Behind the temple of
Yogeshwari is a beautifully engraved stone cave with
intricately sculpted images of elephants.
Parali Vaijanath: Holding a significant place
amongst the 12 Jyotirlingas is Parali Vaijanath.
The temple is atop a hillock in the village. While
steps lead up to the temple from the front, there is a
motorable road at the back. The temple has an open
and impressive compound.
The caves are hewn out of the volcanic
basaltic formation of Maharashtra, known
as ‘Deccan Trap’, the term trap representing
the step like formation of the volcanic
deposits. The rock formation, on weathering
has given rise to the appearance of terraces
with flat summits. At Ellora, one can also
have a glimpse of the channels (near Cave
32) through which the volcanic lava once
flowed. These channels, due to overheating,
have a characteristic brownish red colour.
Without a shadow of doubt the Verul
Leni is a sterling example of the levels of
advancement and sophistication that Indian
artistry and sculpture had managed to
acquire all those many years back.
Apparently, it was none another than Lord
Kartikeya (aka Skanda), the elder son of Lord
Shiva who had established this temple. The
Puranas say that despite his best efforts,
Kartikeya the warlord was unable to defeat
the formidable Tarkasura. And so, Lord Shiva
adviced him to pray to Ganesha, the remover
of obstacles.
The benevolent Ganesha accepted his prayers,
and with his blessings, Kartikeya was able to
slay Tarkasura at long last.
Built approximately 1500 years ago when the
Rashtrakutas dynasty reigned supreme, these caves
are a fabulous representation of Indian sculpture.
These 34 caves which are to the North of the
Charanadri ranges have Hindu, Jain and Buddhist
caves. On studying the inscriptions and engravings
closely, you realise how socio-economic and
political orders were established through religion.
These caves are protected by the Archaeological
Survey of India. The Kailasa Temple (cave no 16)
stands tall amidst the important heritage sites of
the country, apart from being a World Heritage Site.
Ajanta caves
Declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO, the
Ajanta Caves are 105 kms from Aurangabad and
60 kms from Jalgaon. There is also a small village
called Ajanta which is in the vicinity. These caves
are dedicated to Buddhism and one can study the
changes in Buddhism with the help of the paintings,
sculptures and the architectural styles of these
caves.
As a token of his gratitude, Kartikeya
established this temple, also known as
Skandavarad Elapur in the olden days. There
is a huge festive celebration on Bhadrapad
Shuddh Chaturthi as per the Hindu calendar.
Laksh Vinayak, Verul
In its vicinity is the Ghrishneshwar Temple,
which is amongst the 12 Jyotirlingas of
Shiva. The Bhosale family of Chhatrapati
Shivaji was the Patils of Verul as well as
ardent devotees of Ghrishneshwar.
Amidst all these archaeological gems is
nestled the little known Laksh Vinayak
temple of Verul.
This huge image of the Lord has a trunk that
slants to the left; he is seated with the right
side of his lap at a higher level. Once again,
a beautiful legend is associated with the
temple.
101
The year is 1664, and the Maratha
Swarajya under the able leadership of
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj is going from
strength to strength especially to the West
in the direction of Sindhudurg. A far-sighted
ruler, with a thought process way ahead of
his times, Shivaji realizes that protecting
the sea routes of the Konkan are crucial to
protecting his rule and associated security.
The well-armed naval force needs an
impregnable water fortress to serve as a
worthy base. On a trip to Malvan, he chanced
upon an island—Kurte.
With strong rock formations and abundant
fresh water, the location is ideal to build a
fort. He orders the building of the water
fortress with explicit instructions to the
effect: It must be nothing like the world has
seen before.
Work commences in earnest, Shivaji
Maharaj assures the local populace of its
many benefits, takes the local priests into
confidence and sits down to an elaborate
pooja. The day is November 25, 1664. It
goes without saying that no pooja may start
without first paying due respects to Lord
Ganesha himself. But is there a Ganapati on
the coast of Malvan?! But of course, there
is…right on the rock.
However, as the things stand today, the rock
which bears the imprints of the Chhatrapati’s
hands, is simply out in the open, braving the
vagaries of nature. If you are ever in Malvan,
you must make it a point to visit the rock and
salute it. The rock offers you a wonderful
view of the Fort of Sindhudurg.
Other attractions in the vicinity include the
Samadhi (final resting place) of Rajkarnak
Maharaj. Locals say that before Shivaji built
the fort on the island, he urged the holy man
called Karnak Maharaj to kindly shift to a
quiet village nearby and continue with his
austerities, undisturbed.
In turn, he whispered something in the
King’s ears—said of great value. And so
he was henceforth known as ‘Rajkarnak’
Maharaj. He spent his years in Medha, where
he took a Sanjeevan Samadhi ( The act
of a holy man voluntarily giving up his life
when his life’s work is done.) Now there is a
small shrine and a Shivling inside.
It is called Moryacha Dhonda or the rock
of Morya aka Ganapati. A Ferruginous
Quartzite formation, almost purple in colour,
this rock is on the shores of Malvan, within
the limits of Vayari Bhootnath. The
Chhatrapati’s sculptors have carved out
elaborate inscriptions of Ganesha, the Sun
and the Moon, the Shivling and Nandi, the
vehicle of Shiva.
Moryacha Dhonda
How to get there:
Nearest rail route: Kudal on Konkan railway
Lord Ganesha’s place in the Hindu pantheon
of Gods is unparalleled. No auspicious task
may commence without first propitiating the
Vighnaharta or the remover of obstacles.
As far as Maharashtra is concerned,
Ganesha is the most important deity and
is worshipped by one and all. Thousands
of temples dot the landscape, with the
Ashtavinayak holding pride of place.
Each temple has its very own history and
associated legend that adds to its aura.
One such temple that is not known to one
and all is the Siddhivinayak of Nandigram,
which is in the Raigad district, 8 kilometers
from the sea fort Murud Janjira. This
Siddhivinayak is said to be a muchvenerated deity who fulfills his devotees’
dreams and wishes. The temple premises are
spacious and beautiful, while the interiors
are tastefully and artistically sculpted. The
utterly peaceful environs add to the charm of
the temple which was established by noted
astrologer
Jyotishacharya
Ganesha
Daivadnya.
How to get there
The four feet tall image of the Lord has a trunk
slanting towards the right; when you walk
around its circumambulatory path, you get
a good view of the image and also worship it
from all four sides.
The temple of Nandigram with its self-formed
image has been visited by none other than
the First President of the country Dr Rajendra
Prasad. On the Chaturthi day that falls in
the Hindu month of Magh, Lord Ganesha’s
birthday is celebrated with traditional fanfare.
The temple also witnesses a sea of devotees
on Sankashti and Vinayaki Chaturthi. To
get here, one takes the route from AlibaugNagaon- Revdanda. The coastal journey is
indeed a very pleasant one, what with the vast
Arabian Sea and the coastline dotted with
palm trees, keeping you company. There is a
dharmashala (lodge) to house the devotees.
The Siddhivinayak
of Nandigram
Nearest Rail-route: Roha on the Konkan railway
Nearest bus-route: Nandgaon
The water fortress of Murud Janjira: This
impregnable fortress bears the legacy of the Siddi
rulers from Ethiopia, Africa. This awe-inspiring
fortress has 11 circular watch towers that still
make for an impressive sight. Each watch tower is
protected by cannons, some of them in good working
condition still! The inside walls of the main entrance
door of the Fort bears a most unique engraving: a
tiger-like creature holding down 4 elephants in each
of its four legs.
Touring the vicinity of Murud
Murud is a very quiet and beautiful village. The
village ahead of it, namely the Rajpuri village holds
the graves of the Siddi rulers. To the North of Murud
is a small town called Phoolshekhar, where stands
the palace of the Siddi rulers on a picturesque hill.
The entrance doors bear the royal insignia of the
Siddis. Assorted weapons and guns belonging to
the Siddhi rulers are found here.
Kashid and Phansad
A few kilometers to the east of Murud is Nandgaon
with its Ganesha temple, while Kashid is famous
for its clean, white sand. Similarly, the coastal spot
of Phansad is blessed with ample natural beauty.
It is famous for its wildlife sanctuary and the Birla
Temple. The fortress of Korlai is another tourist
spot, while Kude Mandad is famous for its carved
stone caves. In short, this vicinity is just perfect for
those who enjoy the myriad beauties of the sea.
Best of all, Murud also has several quality eateries
for those enjoy experimenting with typical Konkani
food.
Ashutosh Bapat
Nearest bus route: Malvan
Tourist attractions
The Fort of Sindhudurg
This sprawling fortress which tells of the valour of
Shivaji, is an amazing place to visit even today. There
are assorted wells on the fort, apart from the gate in
the shape of a cow’s visage, a temple dedicated to
Shivaji and the imprints of the Chhatrapati’s hands
and his feet. Watching the sun set from this fort is an
unforgettable experience indeed.
Scouring the secrets of the Sea
The MTDC has several resorts and arrangements
to help you experience the myriad delights of the
region. You may avail of the snorkeling and scuba
diving facilities near the Sindhudurg Fort; and also
pay a visit to Tarkarli and Devbag beaches which are
nearby.
Also make it a point to visit the Rock Garden of
Malvan. Marine life aficionados may venture out into
the deep sea to admire the beauty of the Dolphins.
The rock is ceremoniously propitiated and
work begins on the fort of Sindhudurg.
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103
How to get there
Distance from Mumbai: 430 Kms
Nearest rail route: Nandgaon on Konkan railway
Nearest bus route: Devgad
Kunkeshwar
This holy place is deemed to be the Kashi of the
Konkan region. Famous for its mango orchards
and beautiful coastline, Kunkeshwar is known as
the home of Shiva. Legend has it that long ago, a
trader’s ship was caught in the midst of a raging sea
storm off Kunkeshwar. The weather was so bad that
the trader was sure he would perish. It did not matter
to him what Faith he belonged to; instead he prayed
to the heavenly powers to deliver him from such a
fate. Said he: “Whatever the Supernatural spirit that
protects this place, I urge thee to come to my aid.
If you do, I promise to build a temple in its name.”
Nidrist Ganesha (Sleeping
Ganesha) of Avhane
The weather improved, and the trader kept his word.
The Fort of Vijaydurg
This particular temple which houses a
sleeping Ganesha is one of a kind indeed.
There are similar temples dedicated to a
sleeping Lord Hanuman in Khultabad, Lonar,
but none to the Vignaharta or the remover
of obstacles, and therefore ought to be on
the priority list of all devotees.
About 15 kms away from Tisgaon in
Ahmednagar district, the little village of
Avhane is where you ought to head for
a darshan of the Nidrist Ganesha. A
beautiful arch indicates the presence of
the temple, which is as usual, associated
with a distinctive legend. Many years ago,
there lived in this village an ardent devotee
of Lord Ganesha, who went by the name of
Dadoba Dev. Every year, Dadoba would take
it upon himself to make a pilgrimage to the
village of Morgaon. As time went by and
he grew older, he found the journey harder
and harder. It was then that Moraya Gosavi
himself appeared in a celestial vision and
urged him not to undertake the hazardous
journey anymore. But Dadoba was too
ardent a devotee to listen, and undertook
the annual trip once more.
Around the same time, Dadoba’s son
Ganoba had another vision, asking for the
idol to be venerated just as it was, without
modifications of any sort.
Sure enough, the temple holds within its
sanctum sanctorum the very same image of
the Lord—which is about 2 feet lower than
the rest of the surroundings—and bearing
the mark of the plough that hit against it!
There are idols of Ganoba and Dadoba too,
but of course, only Lord Ganesha’s image is
venerated.
Impressively constructed with a beautiful
mandapa and strong walls all around it,
the temple has been funded by the Shahu
Maharaj of Kolhapur. The descendants of
Dadoba have given land for the temple. Hence
the family goes by the name of Jagirdar
Bhalerao. Like all other Ganesha temples,
it comes alive on the days of Sankashti and
Angaraki Chaturthi, and other days of the
Lord. There are ample arrangements for
devotees to stay comfortably right outside
the premises of the temple.
However, he was confronted by a great flood
en route. Undeterred, he took the name of
the Lord, and entered the water—as he was
determined to complete the pilgrimage at
any cost. However, the force of the water
was very strong indeed and he was swept
along. Luckily, he managed to find refuge on
an island. As he recovered from his ordeal,
he had another vision from the Lord, saying:
This time, I will come to your village
myself.
In due course of time, Dadoba died a
peaceful death.
One fine day in the village, even as a farmer
was tilling his land he felt his plough hit
upon a hard surface. Lo and behold! It
was a naturally formed image of Ganesha.
104
How to get there:
Nearest Rail Route: Ahmednagar
Nearest Bus Route: Parthadi
Tourist attractions
The historic city of Ahmednagar which was under
the rule of the Nizam, with its impressive fort,
and legacy is a place worth visiting. It is also an
important military stronghold, and the display of
tanks is worth a visit, besides the museum of old
artefacts put together by the late Suhas Joshi.
Paithan: Home to the celebrated saint-poet Eknath
Maharaj, Paithan also holds his Samadhi. It is also
an important commercial centre, famous for its truly
iconic Paithani saree with peacock motifs and real
gold and silver borders. No Maharashtrian bride’s
trousseau may be complete without the Paithani
saree.
Paithan is also a holy place for the Jain community,
with a distinctive black stone temple dedicated to
the 20thTirthankar of the Jains—Munisuvratnath.
The Konkan region with its natural beauty
and assorted temples and forts is every
inch a travellers’ paradise. The legends and
mysteries associated with every temple
or pilgrimage spot further add to the
excitement of discovery. Amidst all these
are a few temples, which despite being
connected by good roads, are usually not
on the travellers’ itinerary simply because
they are in locations that are perceived to
be remote. But this is precisely why these
places ought to be visited.
Far away from the maddening crowd, nestled
in the very lap of nature the sense of peace
you get to enjoy is simply unbeatable. Just
God and you in uninterrupted communication
save for the gushing streams and chirping of
the birds. Bliss!
Here there rests a naturally formed shivlinga.
There is a belief that this shivlinga had been
submerged in water for thousands of years.
But in the year 1999, the priest of the temple
Shridhar Raut had a vision with regard to its
existence.
Acting upon the same, he had the shivlinga
removed from the water and duly established
in the temple with proper ceremony and rituals.
The Devgad district is not only famous for the King
Alphonso mango, but also the historic Vijaydurg
Fort. Historical records say it was built around the
13th century CE by the Shilahar ruler Raja Bhoj-II.
The fort was initially named Gheriya, possibly after
the village nearby.
In the era of the naval commander Kanhoji Angre,
Vijaydurg emerged as a symbol of Maratha naval
prowess; surrounded on all three sides of the mighty
sea, this fort was said to be impregnable.
This fort had 27 buruj (bastions in all). The main
door of the Fort faces north. The fort also has a
granary, prison, cannon and water Lake that tell of
a glorious era gone by.
The water that flows nearby is very fresh and
clear and is drunk by devotees as tirtha (holy
water.)
This is a much revered spot and if you ever find
yourself in the vicinity of Kunkeshwar, Malvan,
Vijaydurg and Devgad, you must make it a
point to pay a visit.
Pokharbav Ganapati
One such Ganesha temple is the Ganapati
of Pokharbav. The name ‘Pokharbav’ has
an interesting derivation. While ‘Pokhar’
stands for the natural cavity present in the
mountain, ‘bav’ stands for the gushing
water stream that flows below. When you
get here, it’s as if time has stood still—and
you don’t wish to budge from here.
Pokharbav is 11 kms away from Devgad
(which is world famous for its distinctive
Alphonso mangoes). The Devgad-DabholeDahibav road leads to the Dabhole village,
which is only 2 kms away from Pokharbav.
The temple is built on the side of the
road, and is singular for its location and
associated sense of serenity.
The image of Ganesha is built of black stone
and stands on a white marble platform. It
is four armed and seated on an impressive
asana (throne), with a mouse at its feet.
The vicinity of the temple is lovely indeed,
and there are steps to the right that lead you
down.
105
Located close to the famous Mahalakshmi
Mandir at the junction of Binkhambi Road
and Mahadwar Road, the temple comprises
a sanctum and a large hall. The main idol of
Ganesha is flanked by a canopy of ‘simha
vyalas’ on either side. A cobra hood acts
as a canopy over the idol. Here, Ganesha
Chaturthi and other related festivals are
celebrated with great pomp and vigour. The
temple gets packed with devotees on every
Sankashti Chaturthi while many of those
who reside in its vicinity invariably start
their day with a ‘darshan’ at this temple.
At present the Binkhambi Ganesha Mandir
is under the management of the Pashchim
Maharashtra Devasthan Vyavasthapan
Samiti, an organisation that looks after the
Mahalakshmi Mandir too.
As popular with pilgrims as students
of architecture, the Binkhambi
Ganesha Mandir in Kolhapur is unique
because it was built without the use
of supporting pillars
A name often describes it all. The Binkhambi
Ganesha Mandir in Kolhapur is one such
example, so called because it is the only
temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha in
Kolhapur which was built sans any pillars.
This is in stark contrast with the other
temples – and Kolhapur is famous for its
many shrines – all of which have pillars to
support them. Constructed in 1882 with
public support and the then ‘chhatrapati’
of Kolhapur, the temple has two idols of Lord
Ganesha in the sanctum. The smaller one is
ancient while the bigger one was installed a
few years after the temple was constructed.
Binkhambi Ganesha,
Kolhapur
Text and Photographs ©
Yogesh Prabhudesai
The author is a graphic designer and
researcher in ancient Indian art and
architecture and can be reached at
[email protected]
Equally interesting is the legend associated
with this temple. It is said that the influential
Joshirao clan resided in the vicinity of
where the temple stands today and one of
the family members, an ardent devotee of
Lord Ganesha, was pained at being unable
to visit the Sakshi Ganesha Mandir located
at some distance from his home due to
old age. Seeing this intense desire to take
his ‘darshan’, Ganesha decided to visit
the devotee himself, and that too reside
permanently close to his house. As such,
Ganesha appeared in the dream of one
of the family members and asked him to
recover an idol from the well of a person
called Bapurao Waikar. And so, when the
Ganesha idol was discovered, a temple
was immediately constructed there, thus
fulfilling the devotee’s wish.
106
Facilities and Attractions
How to get there
Since the temple is in the heart of the city and very
close to Mahalakshmi Mandir, visitors coming from
outside Kolhapur will find here several lodges and
hotels for a comfortable stay. There also are many
shopping centres for the convenience of tourists. On
the Mahadwar Road nearby are plenty of restaurants
serving traditional Kolhapuri cuisine, including
‘misal’ and ‘bakarwadi’ as well as shops selling
souvenirs, clothes, ornaments, religious texts, etc.
The cluster of footwear shops is at the end of this
road where you can buy the quintessential Kolhapuri
chappals.
Distance from Mumbai: 423 km
Also, close to the Mahalakshmi shrine is Gujri, the
traditional market of goldsmiths, an attractive
destination for women who may want to buy such
traditional Kolhapuri ornaments as ‘saaj’, ‘chittak’
or ‘thushi’. Some of the other places that can make
your visit interesting include the famous Rankala
Lake and the food junction, the food alley near the
Keshavrao Bhosale Theatre, Town Hall Museum, etc.
Kolhapur is also famous for its other temples where
faith and art come together in a beautiful symbiotic
relationship. These include the Omkareshwar
Mandir, Vitthal Mandir, Kapileshwar Mandir, and
Manstambh Basadi located close to the Binkhambi
Ganesha Mandir.
Nearest rail route: Kolhapur
Nearest bus route: Gargoti
The route from Kolhapur to Fonda ghat has two
villages on it: namely Dajipur and Radhanagari. While
there is a dam on the river Bhogawati at Radhanagari,
Dajipur has been declared as a wildlife sanctuary. 45
kms away from Kolhapur, Radhanagari enjoys a very
unique natural beauty. The Radhanagari forest area
cum sanctuary is choc a bloc with local trees like
Anjan, Jambhul, Mango, Kinjal and Hirda. There
are two temples in the area as well: Kamalbhairav
and Kalbhairav. Birds like Khandya, Bulbul, Veda
Raghu and Satbhai are seen here. The forest guest
house, daak bungalow and dormitories are available
to those who wish to stay. To get permission for the
same, you need to write to: The Deputy Conservator
forest, Bindu Chowk, Ganji Galli, Kolhapur—416002.
Phone no: 0231 2542766. Similarly, you could
also seek permission from the Radhanagari forest
protection committee to camp inside tents and avail
of food.
Contact: 0231 203718.
In the quest to find out more about the
lesser known temples of Ganesha, it is
worth acknowledging the socio-cultural
contribution of certain holy destinations.
These temples are not just beautiful centers
of spirituality in themselves, but also
perform vital service to the villages in their
vicinity. A fine example of this abiding sense
of social responsibility is the Siddhivinayak
temple of Turambe, 35 kms along the
Kolhapur-Gargoti road in the Radhanagari
taluka. The village is prosperous due to
the existence of the Doodhganga river. On
the main road is the temple of Siddhivinayak
which was renovated in November 2000.
With an area of 80 feet x 40 feet, the temple
premises are spacious indeed. The centre of
attraction is, without a doubt, the 2.5 feet
tall, black stone Ganapati with its four arms.
The idol has sindoor all over it, and has
assorted weapons in both hands.
Recounting the importance of this place,
devotees tell the story of a Ganapati priest
of one of the Ashtavinayak temples, whose
long-standing desire for a child was fulfilled
when he propitiated the Siddhivinayak of
Turambe. This deity is not just famous in the
neighboring areas, but attracts the faithful
from remote corners of the state.
The Ganesha festival in the month of Magh
is celebrated in the course of week long
celebrations with great ceremony. In these
seven days, the temple management goes all
out to organize socio cultural programmes
such as a lecture series and performances
by assorted kirtankars.
Mobile numbers: 9545703322/9960086585.
Siddhivinayak of Turambe
Ashutosh Bapat
further guidance and counseling for those who
could not clear the exams. The secretary of the
temple committee Mr. Balasaheb Vagverkar
and their associates have a huge contribution
in the successful organization of this program.
The Chaturthi that falls in the month of
Margashirsha is celebrated as the Foundation
Day of the temple and an elaborate Mahaprasad
is prepared on a large scale.
No two ways about it, this temple with its active
social conscience is definitely worth a visit.
The secretary of the Jalaswrajya namely
Dr. Indrajit Deshmukh plays an active role in
the arrangements.
Apart from this, students who have done well
in their Xth and XIIth exams are felicitated,
even as the temple committee arranges for
107
From mountains and streams, to sharp,
unexpected dips and turns, the Sahyadris
are a treasure trove of surprises—especially
for the adventurous. So if you have
imagination and the will to explore beyond
what is obvious territory, you would be
amply rewarded. One route worth exploring
on foot is the road that leads to the BhorgiriBhimashankar. At the very beginning of this
route is the tiny and picturesque village of
Bhorgiri, just about 80 kms away from Pune.
The road traverses Rajgurunagar.
How to get there
Nearby Rail route: Pune
Nearby State Transport: Rajgurunagar.
Bhimashankar one of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Lord
Shiva is 6 km from here. Motorable road is about
24 kms. There are plenty of hotels in the vicinity;
notable amongst them being Hotel Blue Mormon.
Behind this village is the Fort of Bhorgiri,
which has several caves. Here, on the
banks of the Bhima river rests the Temple
of Koteshwar. Legend has it that the Gods
themselves have sanctified the water
reservoir near the temple; thus every
auspicious day is a good opportunity to take
a dip.
The Gadhinglaj taluka of Kolhapur has
several treasures within its limits, both
natural and historical. Resplendent with
temples and forts and other beautiful
spots in the lap of nature, it attracts a lot of
tourists.
Geographically too this place is unique with
its dense green cover, assorted mountain
ranges, and the presence of tourist worthy
places like Amboli, Chandgadh and Ajra in
its vicinity.
How to get there:
Nearest rail route: Kolhapur
Nearest bus route: Gadhinglaj
Tourist attractions
Gadhinglaj taluka is only 7 kms away from here. The
mountain forts of Samangadh and Kalanandigadh
are worth a visit. Both have motorable roads. There
are plenty of quality places to stay and eat.
Amboli
With its singular natural beauty, Amboli, the only
‘cool’ place in the coastal region of the Konkan, is
only 10 kms away. Resplendent with both natural
and historical bounties, no vacation to the Konkan is
complete without going to Amboli. The Hiranyakeshi
river, lush greenery and historic Pargad Fort are the
chief attractions. Tourists have plenty of resorts and
eateries to choose from.
Kolhapur:
This historic city which enjoys the status of a district
is at a distance of 50 kms. The Mahalakshmi Temple
with its rich sculpture is almost a synonym for
Kolhapur. The historic fort of Panhala is also nearby.
Once again, there are plenty of hotels to choose
from. Of course, the piece de resistance are the
eateries that serve the famous Kolhapuri non-veg
dishes.
108
7 kms to the west of Gadhinglaj is a vibrant
little village called Inchanaal. Here on the
banks of the Hiranyakeshi river stands a
beautiful temple of the Lord. A lot of history
is attached to the temple. Around 1907-08
it underwent a reconstruction funded by
Gopal Appaji Kulkarni.
mudra. The temple is managed by the
Devasthan samiti. There are about 9 acres
of land dedicated to Ganesha.
The Ganesha Jayanti that falls in the month
of Magh is celebrated in a big way, and
Mahaprasad distributed to all devotees
who come all the way from Kolhapur,
Sawantwadi, Goa and Belgaum for a
darshan of the Lord.
The Ganesha of Inchanaal
Ashutosh Bapat
This deity is supposed to be extremely
vigilant and active in fulfilling the devotees’
wishes. The Dandge (Joshi) family of
Mahagaon has been in charge of looking
after all the arrangements of the pooja for
over 300 years now.
It is said that the Koteshwar Temple is
amongst the 12 temples of Shiva built by
the king Jhanja in 12th century CE. Even
as the temple houses the mandatory Shiva
Linga, it is famous for its small but most
unusual image of Ganapati. Just about 1.5
foot in height, this portly and distinguished
figure seems to show instance of Western
sculpture, given that Ganapati is dressed in a
garment that closely resembles a skirt! This
idol is four armed and carries the mandatory
weaponry and fruit.
The Fort of Bhorgiri is ensconced in green
and clean territory, untouched by pollution
and crowds. The Monsoons are the best
time of the year to come this side.
The distance between Bhorgiri and
Bhimashankar is just about 6 kms, and
makes for a breathtaking trek. What is even
more awesome is that the entire terrain is
marked by perked little streams and wild
flowers.
An efficient bus service can bring you to
Gadhinglaj.
Koteshwar - The Ganapati
of Bhorgiri
Another renovation was carried out between
1987 and 1992 by the Shri Gajanan
gramastha Seva Mandal, Inchanaal and
Mumbai with the help of localites. A special
sort of stone called the Arabhav stone was
brought from Gokak for the construction of
the temple.
A kalashahrohan ceremony was then
carried out by the Shankaracharya of Karvir
Peeth on May 4, 1992. The temple has an
impressive sabhamandap and garden
within its premises, apart from another
temple dedicated to Mahadev.
This temple has a seated Ganesha idol
of black stone. The idol is about 2.5 feet
in height and has four arms holding the
traditional weaponry of the Lord—pasha,
ankush, patra, and the one hand in Varad
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How to get there
Nearest rail route: Nanded
Nearest bus route: Kandhar
The beautiful Gurudwara of Sachkhand Sahib; the
10th Guru of the Sikhs Guru Gobind Singh is said to
have lived here for about 14 months. He is the one
who gave the Sikhs the Holy book The Guru Granth
Sahib.
Mahur: It is famous for the temples of Renukadevi;
Shri Dutta and Parshuram.
About 8 kms away from Yavat on the PuneSolapur Highway are the Bhuleshwar Hills
of the Sahyadris. In the medieval period
the Adilshahi commander Murar Jagdev
constructed a fort called Daulat Mangal
named after the fact that it was in the
proximity of the Mangalai Devi Mandir, in the
south of Bhuleshwar temple.
As of today only a few remnants of the
Fort exist, but there is a beautiful Shiva
Temple that is worth a visit. Built in the
era of the Yadavas, this temple faces East
and is beautifully sculpted with images of
musicians, dancers, elephants, heavenly
nymphs, horses—in short all the symbols of
prosperity and enjoyment. A well-tarred road
makes the temple an accessible destination.
Amidst all these beautiful carvings, what
stands out for its sheer rarity is an idol of
Ganesha in female form. At first you would
wonder if the sculptor has made a big
mistake-but he has not. In Hindu Mythology,
the innate strength (Shakti) is depicted in
female form. When it comes to writing, the
feminine gender can be expressed through
the tweaking of verbs and nouns. But when it
comes to sculpture, the said God is depicted
in the female form.
The Idol of Vainayaki,
Bhuleshwar
of Ganesha resting at its feet. A similar
image of Ganesha resides in the Ambejogai
Devi Mandir in Beed district. This particular
image has a 16-armed Ganesha decked
up in a saree and a traditional bindi on the
forehead.
Other noteworthy instances of Gods
depicted in the feminine form may be found
in the Kedareshwar Temple at the village of
Anva where the 24 Shaktis of Lord Vishnu
are sculpted in great detail.
How to get there:
The little village of Kandhar in the Nanded
district of Marathwada was once the capital
of the Rashtrakuta dynasty. It also has
an impressive fort from the period. The
Rashtrakuta ruler Krishna-III built Kandharnagar with great deliberation and planning--A naturally secure piece of land on the
banks of the Manyad river was selected for
the purpose.
of land to the north of the Manyad River. Lord
Ganesha urged Sadhumaharaj to take his
image out from there.
3 kms to the west of Kandhar is a Ganapati
temple, named after a holy man called
Shri Sadhumaharaj. Folklore says that
he would make a pilgrimage every year
on the occasion of Ashadhi Ekadashi to
Pandharpur. One year, even as he made
a stopover at Shekapur, Lord Ganesha
appeared before him in a celestial vision
and said that he was lying buried in a piece
The villagers built a platform for the idol
but it just would not stand. However, when
Sadhumaharaj’s hand touched it, it stood
upright.
Nearest rail-route: Yavat/Pune
Nearest bus route: Pune
Tourist attractions
The Chintamani Ganesha of Theur which is a part
of the Ashtavinayak Yatra is close by. This was the
favourite deity of Madhavrao Peshwa; a memorial to
his wife Ramabai is also built there.
The brother of Baji Rao Peshwa-1, namely Chimaji
Appa donated a huge bell said to have been wrested
from the Portuguese after the victory of Vasai.
Following the vision, Sadhumaharaj narrated
this story to the villagers of Kandhar. The
villagers acted upon the description of the
exact location described by the holy man, and
excavated an idol from it.
Hence the name The Sadhumaharaj Ganapati
or the Shivevarcha Ganapati (Ganapati on
the boundary). This village is ensconced in a
beautiful green location, while this 6 foot tall
idol is located on its outskirts. It is also known
by the names Lambodar, Mahakay, Gajkarnak
etc. The idol requires five kilos of sindoor,
a 4 feet long sacred thread (janave worn by
Brahmins) and garlands for worship. The
auspicious day of Shuddh Chaturthi in the
month of Bhadrapad is celebrated in a big
way. Similarly, the month of Margashirsha is
witness to a massive pooja organised by the
Sadhumaharaj Sansthan.
The Sadhumaharaj
Ganapati
Ashutosh Bapat
Photographs © Vijay Hokarne
Nanded is 45 kms away from Kandhar.
Folklore has it that when Lord Shiva
asked the Gods to aid him in slaying the
evil Andhakasur, they lent their collective
strengths to him. This episode is depicted
by sculptors by presenting the Gods in their
Feminine form! The vehicles of the Gods rest
at their feet.
This version of Vinayak aka Ganesha’s
Shakti is known as Vainayaki. There is a
beautifully engraved mouse—the vehicle
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111
How to get there
Nearest bus and rail route: Nanded
The beautiful Gurudwara of Sachkhand Sahib; the
10th Guru of the Sikhs Guru Gobind Singh is said to
have lived here for about 14 months. He is the one
who gave the Sikhs the Holy book The Guru Granth
Sahib.
Mahur: It is famous for the temples of Renukadevi;
Shri Dutta and Parshuram.
Blessed are those who have the courage to
leave the security of the best known route,
and choose instead to charter unexplored
turf, for chances are that they would see
things denied to most. Besides, they do not
have to suffer the maddening crowds, and
can instead experience the kind of serenity
that few do. Ask any true blue fort lover, and
he or she would happily attest to this fact.
The Siddhivinayak of
Kadaav (Kadaavcha
Siddhivinayak)
Ashutosh Bapat
The Fort of Kothligad (aka Pethacha killa)
in Karjat taluka is a fine example for the joys
that await the intrepid. This Fort which is
en route to Bhimashankar is in picturesque
locales indeed. In its vicinity are the village
of Kadav and its famous temple of Digambar
Siddhivinayak. This village is just about 8
kms away from Karjat Railway Station.
The Ganesha idol at this temple is said to be
very ancient, and legend has it that it was
the Rishi Kanav who founded it. Another
story says that around 300 years ago, even
as the Patil of the village, Shri Ghule was
tilling his land, he found this idol. Hence
Kadaavcha Siddhivinayak is the family
deity of his descendents. In the years to
come, the temple was renovated by the
famous Minister of the Peshwas, Nana
Phadanavis.
This huge idol with just one tusk and adorned
with the yadnopavit is very unique indeed
just as it is mentioned in the shlokas.
How to get there:
Nearest Bus and Rail route: Karjat
Tourist attractions
The beautiful Fort of Kothligad with the numerous
steps leading to it. Visiting this Fort in the Monsoons
is a wonderful experience, as the path is dotted with
a series of gushing springs and streams.
Ambivali cave: The village of Ambivali has an old
inscribed cave, which is next to the river.
Kondane cave: Go to the village of Kothimbe from
Karjat. 30 minutes away from this village, dotting the
road that leads to the forest area are the beautiful
caves of Kondane, nestled within the Fort of
Rajmachi another tour worthy spot.
The historic city of Nanded is best known as
the holy place of the Sikh Community; it is
an interesting but little known fact, however,
that this city is home to a beautiful Ganesha
Mandir called the Trikut Ganesha. Folklore
has it that it was Lord Shiva himself, who
asked his gifted son Ganesha to meditate
in order to attain his innate potential, and
become the Ganadhyaskha (Head of the
Ganas), of Shiva. After that penance, Shiva
seated Ganesha onto his lap, thereby making
this place a revered Ganeshatirtha or pilgrim
place. The naturally occurring Shiva Linga
and Ganesha idol seem to hint at this fact.
The location of this stone temple is lovely
too: it is situated in the tiny village of Trikut
about 8 kms to the east of Nanded, where
the rivers Godavari and Asana confluence.
The temple has been built by the ruler of
Nagpur Raghuji Bhosale. Another legend
has it that the Raja of Trikut, on the advice
of Sage Vyasa, propitiated Lord Ganesha,
following which he gained his kingdom.
It is believed that if you pray at this place,
you will be conferred with knowledge and
prosperity. The great poet and Shiva bhakt
Ramakrishna Bapu Somayaji mentions this
temple in his poetry. The auspicious day
of Shuddh Chaturthi in the Hindu month
of Magha sees the temple decorated for
festivities and prayers.
The Trikut Ganesha of
Nanded
If you intend discovering more about this
Temple, it’s best to take along your own
vehicle. Alternately, an auto rickshaw works
well. The old bridge over the river Godavari
that is part of the state highway of NandedHyderabad will take you to this quaint
Temple.
The Prasad (or holy food) that is distributed
to the devotees after their worship is most
unusual but delicious: lahyache pohe
and phodni dilela Harbhara (parched
flattened rice with spiced chick peas)
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This four feet tall wooden idol has three faces
and six hands. It is beautifully decorated
with jewellery, even as Ganesha bears his
traditional weaponry. At his feet are his
vehicle, the mouse and the laddoo-shaped
Beejpurak fruit which is the symbol of
success and new beginnings.
Records related to the maintenance of this
temple reveal that annual donation was given
to it by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. Later
on, his descendants continued it. The same
practice was also retained by the Peshwas
and the British rulers. The architecture of
the temple is also quite different from other
Ganapati temples and reflects the transition in
the development of temple architecture. Thus,
this lesser known temple at Wai is important
not only for devotees but also for researchers
in the field of temple art and architecture.
While Dapoli-Dabhol enjoys several visitors, it
is a good idea to visit this wonderful temple
that rests alongside the timeless sea.
How to get there:
Nearest rail route: Khed, Konkan railways
Nearest bus route: Dapoli
Tourist attractions
The forts of Suvarndurg, Kanakdurg and Gova are
absolute delights for lovers of history. Kanakdurg is
built on a piece of land jutting into the sea, even as
the port of Harnai is in its vicinity. There are builtup steps that lead you to the fort that houses water
tanks as well as a light house (Deepagriha.)
The tiny fort of Goa rests on the shores of the sea,
with a sea-facing gateway. You also get to see an
idol of Hanuman and sculptures of the mythical
birds called Gandbherund.
The faithful believe that when the Gods
decide to bless someone with their
benediction, they appear before their
devotees in different ways, and leave behind
an important symbol cum reminder of their
visit. Naturally, there are several such stories
about Lord Ganesha, the Sukhakarta (the
dispenser of joy) most of them contained
within the Puranas.
However, the legend associated with the
Trimukhi Ganesha of Burondi (a village 12
kms from Dapoli in the Konkan region) is a
very contemporary one and doesn’t sound
too credible especially to modern ears.
However, on closer examination, you can’t
help but bow your head to the deep faith that
is the basis of this legend.
The village of Burondi is a village of simple
fisher-folk with the members of the Koli and
Kharbi samaj forming the majority of the
populace.
This particular episode took place in 2006,
when two fishermen Nandkumar and Durvas
Sakharkar were out in the deep sea off the
port of Harnai with their fishing boat. As they
got busy with their fishing, a wooden idol
of the Lord floated to their boat. Thinking
that the idol had been immersed by another
devotee, they worshipped it and immersed it
into the sea again.
Trimukhi Ganesha-Burondi
Ashutosh Bapat
Anjarle:
The beautiful, tiny and compact village with its
temple of Ganesha (Kadyavarcha Ganapati) of
Anjarle is an absolute delight to behold. The temple
has a lake in front of it.
In order to get to Anjarle, one has to cross the port of
Harnai via the River Jog.
sea where the best catch may be found.
To their utter amazement the same idol
appeared again! There was no way that they
could put down their third meeting with the
idol to mere providence.
They decided to take it back with them.
On reaching the shores of the village, they
called all the villagers and told them of what
had happened. The villagers unanimously
decided to establish the idol of the temple
in the village itself. But there was no temple
to house the idol. Thus, this unique idol
of three-faced (Trimukhi) Ganesha was
installed within the precincts of the existing
temple of Shri savardev on the auspicious
occasion of Ganesha Jayanti in the month
of Magha.
It is said that since the installation of the
idol, both the Sakharkar family and other
villagers have enjoyed great prosperity.
But even as they went deeper into the sea,
the same idol floated by again. Once again,
they respectfully immersed it back, thinking
of its reappearance as a mere coincidence.
They ventured deeper and deeper into the
114
On the other hand, Suvarndurg is a fort that is
completely immersed within the sea. You have to
cross Harnai by boats to get there. This fort enjoys
the advantage of several watch towers. This two
gated fort has a huge water reservoir inside.
Kelshi:
This little village is flanked on three sides by
mountains and the sea along one side. This village
has a little hill made entirely of sand. The main deity
of the village is Devi Mahalakshmi, and there is a
temple dedicated to the Goddess on a hill which is a
little distance from the village.
The Dhundhivinayak Mandir of Wai usually
does not find itself on the map of pilgrims
but nevertheless is worth a visit for its
unique architecture and for the fact that is
perhaps one of the oldest in the area
Wai, 35 kilometers northwest of the district
headquarter Satara, is a small township on
the banks of river Krishna. The strategic
location of Wai on the Pune –Mahabaleshwar
highway has made it a popular destination
for people en route to the twin hill-stations
of Panchgani and Mahabaleshwar. Famous
for its numerous temples on the bank of
the river and the ghats (series of steps
leading to the river), Wai is also known for
its ancient Buddhist rock-cut caves in the
neighbouring hills. The Dholya Ganapati and
the Kashi Vishweshwar temples are some of
the most visited in Wai.
However, not many tourists are aware of
the Dhundivinayak Ganapati Mandir located
in the Brahmanshahi area of the town. The
temple has been traditionally looked after by
the Sabne family and hence is also known
as the Ganapati of the Sabnes. Even though
there is no historical information available
about the construction of this temple, the
style, the architecture and the tradition in
the town suggest that this is quite an old
temple which can approximately be dated to
the 14th – 15th century CE.
The Temple Structure
In this temple, the sculptures on the walls
are peculiar and have no parallels in this
region. The temple stands on a high plinth.
A flight of steps takes one to a pillared
mandapa (hall) with the kakshasanas
The Dhundivinayak
Mandir, Wai
Text and Photographs © Manjiri Bhalerao
The author is Associate Professor of
Indology, Tilak Maharashtra Vidyapeeth,
Pune and can be reached at
[email protected]
(seats with backrests). It further leads one
to the sanctum. Peculiarly enough, the
mouse, Ganapati’s vehicle, is placed in the
right corner of the sanctum instead of being
placed in front of it. The image is placed on
a platform in a niche. The temple is also
unique for the sculptures that are carved at
the entrance.
Lodging and Sightseeing
As Wai is a popular town for its weather
and is located on the way to Panchgani and
Mahabaleshwar there are ample number
of hotels available for tourists. Wai is a
hub for numerous tourist destinations like
Panchagani, Mahabaleshwar, Pratapgad
Fort, Menavali, Dhomeshwar, etc. It is also
famous for the traditional Maharashtrian
sweet pedhe and for traditional items like
kurdai, papad, pickles, etc.
The lintel has a crude sculpture of
Sheshashayi Vishnu and underneath the
lintel is the sculpture of Ganapati. On
the exterior are some more sculptures of
Hanumana, tigers holding elephants in
their claws, an ascetic and a Garuda with
folded hands. The entrance doorway has
a mythical figure called Kirtimukha at the
base. The shikhara (tower) was renovated. It
has niches with the images of Ganapati. The
campus of the temple is also noteworthy for
the six memorials of ascetics. A small old
stone shrine with an image of Narasimha
can also be seen in the courtyard. The
temple is well-fortified from all sides as it is
very close to the river.
The most important fact about this temple is
that it is probably the oldest temple in Wai.
115

Ganapatis off the beaten track

Transcription

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