Unveiling5,892mPeaknorthofMt.Siguniang
Transcription
Unveiling5,892mPeaknorthofMt.Siguniang
pushednewthr巴 e p i t c h e s .The5 t hp i t c ht h a t h emostd i f f i c u l tp i t c ht o Kashiwasel巴d wast c l i m bas l i p p e r ys l a bt of i n g e rc r a c kf i n d i n gs m a l l h o l d s .Thec l i m b i n gg r a d ewas5 ・ lOC. Aug. 6 : Ohuchi, YamazakiandYoshida c l i m b e df u r t h e rt h r e ep i t c h e supwardss t r a i g h t l y . A f t e rt h el a s tp i t c hont h i sd a y ,t h ec l i m b i n gt ot h e a s ya sa n summitwaspresumedt ob巴 rather e a n g l eg o ts m a l l e r .Tor e a c ht h esummitont h e f o l l o w i n gd a y ,c l i m b i n gg巴ars wered e p o s i t e da n d oBC.Rop巴S a l lt h ememb巴rs oncedescendedt wer巴 fixed o nt h e8 t h ,4 t h, 2nda n d1 s tp i t c h . A u g .7 9 :R a i n i n g .Tookr e s t . A u g .10 :・ Raining b u tresumedc l i m b i n g .A l lt h e membersb i v o u a c k e da tt h es t a r t i n gp o i n t . osnow.S n o w f a l l s Aug. 11 :・ Rain changedt madet h ec l i m b i n gc o n d i t i o n sextrem巴ly d i f f i c u l t a n dt o od a n g e r o u st oc o n t i n u ec l i m b i n g .Thef i n a l a t t e m p twasg i v e nu p . Aug. 1 2 :R a i n i n g.Couldn o tr e c o v e r e dth巴 c l i m b i n gg e a r sl巴ft ont h ed e p o s i tp o i n t .Took r e t u r nw a y . A ug. 1 3 :A r r i v e da tChengdu.W i l lc h a l l e n g e a g a i nt oc o m p l e t et h ec l i m b i n gt ot h esummiti n 2 0 0 3 . C l i m b i n gt h ew e s tf a c eo fN i u x i mS h a n U n v e i l i n g5 , 8 9 2 mP e a kn o r t ho fM t .S i g u n i a n g TamotsuNakamura A soneofth巴 b u tmosta l l u r i n g L . . 1 objectiv巴s amongth 巴 rock peaksnorth . . L . 1 .o fM t .S i g u n i a n go fQ o n g l a iM o u n t a i n s i nWestS i c h u a n,t h ewrit巴r i n t r o d u c e d5892m p e a ki nh i sTheDeepGorgeCountrッ(Yama-Kei Publish巴rs, T okyo2000-J a p a n e s ev e r s i o n ) .T h i s bookt r i g g e r e da n attemptbyMr. R 巴 ntaro oe x p l o r e5892mpeaka n dt h ev i c i n i t y Nishり ima t approachingfromt h en o r t h e r ns i d e .Hei sa p o t e n t i a lm巴mber o fTheHimalayanA s s o c i a t i o n o fJ a p a n .Thef o l l o w i n gi sh i sbri巴f a c c o u n t . Access: Chengdu ー( 200km) L iXianJ iaxil王ougou v a l l e y BaseCamp. P巴riod: A ugust6t o1 5 ,2 0 0 2 . N o t e sonmap:Numberi n0 i sr e f e r r e dt ot h e unknown s k e t c hm a p . ( Hot s p r i n g s ,20m i n u t e sfromaj u n c t i o n w i t ht h emainr o a dt oJ i a x i k o u g u o . ( Bridge, 20minutesfromt h eh o ts p r i n g . C h i n e s ec a b b a g ef i e l d si nt h ev i c i n i t y. ( Open p l a c es u i t a b l ef o rcamping. ( Up t oh e r eat r a i lg o e sa l o n gr i v e rb e db u t f r o mh e r et h et r a i ls t a r t st oa s c e n d. ( Confluence w i t hat巾utary t oW巴st. ( Ab i g柏市 wall i sl o o k i n go v e rt h ev a l l e y . Att h ef o o to ft h ew a l lacottag 巴 of Yak headsmenr e m a i n s ( Ac o t t a g ef o rg a t h e r i n gm e d i c i n a lh e r b s. E i g h th o u r swalkfromth巴 hot s p r i n g .The l o n gth巴 left banko ft h emain t r a i lgo巴s a 71 ( ( ( ( s t r e a m .Manytimesoff o r d i n gforced. Localp e o p l es a y5642mwass c a l e dbya surveyteamabouttwenty y e a r sa g o . Beyondt h ec o t t a g et os o u t h ,t h er i v e r b e d nf r o n t , becomes wid 巴 ly openedandi b 巴 autiful p eakswithhangingglaci 巴rs a p p e a ri ns i gh t . Moraines f a l l e n down from hangrng g l a c i e r sforma na l l u v i a lf a nandt h emain u r v i n gt ot h e s t r e a mo ft h ev a l l e ygo巴s upc n d .A f t e rc u r v i n gsome r i g h ta tth巴 fan e 30mhighw a t e r f a l lcomesi n t oviewi n f r o n t . Grassy banks of t h e both a r e p a s s a b l e .Yakt r a i li sfoundi nt h el e f tbank. Beyo nd t h ew a t e r f a l lavi巴w a g a i ng e t w i d e r .Goodcampingp l a c ei sv e r ys c a r c e a st h evall 巴y becomess t e e p .Theonly s u i t a b l ep o i n t( 4200m )i sa tt h es n o u to ft h e mains t r e am fromgl a c i e r .S i xh o u r sfrom t h ec o t t a g ef o rm e d i c i n a lh e r b s . Local p e o p l ec a l l‘ terraced glacier,,巴nd o f whichf o r m si c e f a l l sandt o od a n g e r o u st o s ascend. Thehighes tpointreach 巴 d i 4300m. Tried t oc l i m bav e r ys t e e pc o u l o i rg o i n gup farth巴r B utt h eupperp a r twasr o c k sw i t h ns u c c e s s i o n . sma l lw a t e r f a l l sapp巴aring i ( 'Terrace Gl a ci e r a n dr o ckp ea k5642m 72 Gaveupa t4500m. Ap a s st oH a i z i g o u . 5714m peakwhichwouldpr巴sumably be t h eh i g h e s tpeaki nt h em a s s i f .Noo t h e r higherpeakst h a n57l 4mpeakwerei n s i g h t . ( The peakofc5700m correspondst o5892m peako ft h eRussian 民1ap. ( ( The s o u t h e r nh e a d w a t e r so fJ i a x i k o u g u o v a l l e y . I nsummary,t h ew 巴ather wasu n s t a b l eand event h ew o r s tb e c a us eo ft h er a i n ys e a s o n .The 5714mpeakwash i d d e nfroms i g h tbyt h er i d g e ( ( of ⑪ Nakamura’s comments :同 Does5982mpeakt r u l ye x i s t ?T h i sh e i g h ti s quoted from Rus s i an Topogr a p h i c a l Map 1 :100, 000whereasnoh e igh toft h i speaki s s howni nChinaL i b e r a t i o nArmy( PLA)Map 1 :100, 000.Only5714mpeaki ss hownont h e Chinamap.TheRus si a n5892mpeaki slocat巴d a t l .7kmt oNNWfrom5714mpeakandN i s h i z a k i c l a i m st h a tt h ehe i g h to f5892mpeakwo u l dbe c5700m.Comparisono ft h eb o t hmapsl e a d st o t h ec o n c l u s i o nt h a ti fwea d o p tt h ePLAMapa s ana u t h e n t i co n e ,t h eh e i g h to f5892mpeakmust l a c i e r sa r eseeminglyretr巴ating. beam巴nded. G Thos er o c kp e a k st ha ts u r r o u n dJ i a x i k o u g u oa r e f e l tn o ts omucha t t r a c t i vea sheh a se x p e c t e d . UnknownPeaksNortho fMt.Siguning ーーー- Route 1 0 3 ーO O ' E i s h i z a k i Au takenb RentaroN 自t 2002 0w i t hnumber 日 to b er e f e r r e dt ot h et e x t . dIJ旦.@ Giaαer ><Pass H e i g h t :m e t e r ~ Information 田町時: C h i n aP四pie’s L i b e r a t i o nArmyσLA) ・・・ ao ‘ 0 Map-1 : 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 N 31。 20’N EEE 問。z ~I'll 73