Do you have dead or dying evergreens?

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Vol. 9 No. 101
Do you have dead or dying evergreens?
Tom Castronovo/Photos
The needles of these damaged Norway spruce in Mendham, Morris County, New Jersey have curled, twisted, and turned brown.
By Tom Castronovo
Executive Editor
Millions of dollars’ worth
of Norway spruce, white pines
and other plants are at stake in
New Jersey, and many other
states, with Imprelis being the
leading suspect.
Manufactured by DuPont
and conditionally approved
for sale last October by
the federal Environmental
Protection Agency, Imprelis
is used for killing broadleaf
weeds like ground ivy,
plantains,
wild
violet,
dandelion, henbit,and clover,
and was sold to licensed
landscape and lawn care
professionals only.
Imprelis was touted by
DuPont as “an innovation
that was worth the wait.”
However, reports of dying
trees started surfacing around
Memorial Day.
Here is what I have
learned about Imprelis.
Imprelis is not approved
for use in New York and
California. Officials say they
have told DuPont that they
have detected two problems:
the herbicide does not bind
with soil and it leaches into
groundwater.
Many
lawn
care
applicators began using
the herbicide this spring.
Some have even made two
applications.
Many trees are damaged,
severely damaged, and are
dying.
On June 17, 2011, DuPont
issued a letter to professional
applicators cautioning against
the use of Imprelis where
Norway spruce or white
pine trees are present on, or
in close proximity to, the
property being treated.
On July 27, 2011, DuPont
acknowledged to the U.S.
Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) that there
has been damage to trees
associated with Imprelis use
and that the company had
developed an Internet web
page to provide information
and updates concerning
Imprelis use.
DuPont sent a letter to
distributors on Thursday,
August 4, informing them
that they were implementing
a voluntary suspension of the
sales of Imprelis and working
on a product return and refund
program.
The letter was sent one
day after EPA officials wrote
DuPont with concerns that
it may have misbranded
the herbicide because label
directions and warnings are
inadequate to protect nontarget plant species, and
that DuPont was asserting
that study data on Imprelis
was confidential business
information that should not
be disclosed to the public.
The EPA issued an order
to E.I. DuPont de Nemours
(DuPont) on August 10
directing the company to
immediately halt the sale, use
or distribution of Imprelis, an
herbicide marketed to control
weeds that has been reported
to be
(Cont. on page 8)
2 September, 2011
Garden Center direCtory
This Fall Restore Your Lawn
The All Natural Way
Learn About Organic Fertilizers
Eco-friendly grass seed mixtures
Questions specific to your lawn
Friday, September 23
5-7 PM
Gardener News
Gardener News
September, 2011 3
Around The Garden
By Tom Castronovo
Gardener News
HARDY BARDY MUMS
Thousands to Choose from!
September is the re-greening of the lawn
This month you can rejuvenate an existing lawn, start a new one, or repair one that has been
damaged by disease, drought or insects.
September is the ideal time to seed; the second-best time for seeding lawns is in March or
April, depending on the weather. Lawns can also be sown at other times of the year.
With early September germination, the young grass will have two or three months to
become better established before temperatures drop too low and growth stops. Next spring, the
young plants will have another few months to develop deeper roots before the summer heat
sets in. This is the primary reason, in my opinion, to seed in the fall. As the old saying goes…
fall is for planting!
Below, I’ve prepared a few simple steps so you can have the best looking lawn in town.
The first thing that you should do if you are planning to seed this fall is to take a soil test
as soon as possible. This is a very simple thing to do. Simply visit your local Cooperative
Extension office to purchase a kit. Please turn to page 22 to find their telephone number. It
shouldn’t cost you more than $15. Inside the kit are easy, step-by-step instructions. Soil test kits
can also be purchased at your favorite garden center or hardware store.
A soil test determines the pH and takes the guesswork out of fertilization. It is also extremely
cost effective. Lawns need a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (slightly acidic) to thrive.
A phrase has been drilled into my brain by all of the instructors at Rutgers that I have had
over the past 25-plus years: “It all starts with the soil.”
Now it’s time to choose the right seed for the job.
Kentucky Bluegrass – Does well in sunny areas, and it’s known for its pleasing color and
leaf texture. Seeding rates are two pounds per 1,000 square feet. Tall Fescue – Drought and
high traffic tolerant. Able to survive in infertile soil. Seeding rates are four to six pounds per
1,000 square feet. Fine Fescue – For shady and dry infertile locations.Does not tolerate high
traffic. Seeding rates are four to six pounds per 1,000 square feet. And Perennial Rye Grass –
Has excellent color and a great survival rate. Does not do well in extremely wet areas. Seeding
rates are four to six pounds per 1,000 square feet. I like the Jonathan Green Black Beauty mix.
Now this is important; the key to rapid germination is to have good seed-to-soil contact!
If your lawn has dried out or has burnt-up-looking areas in it, don’t just spread seed on top
of it. If you do, more than likely, it will not grow. There are a few different ways to get a good
seed-to-soil contact.
You can manually break through those burnt-up or dead areas by using a cultivator or a
potato hook type of gardening tool or a good strong rake. Remember, good seed-to-soil contact
is the key for proper germination.
Or you can use a slice seeder. This machine mechanically cuts horizontal grooves into the
soil with its fixed blades.
After using the cultivator or running the machine over the affected areas, kind of paint the
grass seed over the prepared area, then hand rake it vertically over the horizontal grooves. This
will force the grass seed and the dirt back into the grooves you made in the soil.
Then, lightly fertilize the newly seeded area with a starter fertilizer.
There are two different ways to help protect the grass seed from drying out, the birds and
running off from a heavy rain, and to help it during the germination process.
The first way is to use an environmentally friendly biodegradable green mulch product
made by Jonathan Green.
Or you can use straw…and I emphasize straw. Do not use hay. Hay contains lots of weed
seeds that can germinate in your newly prepared area, causing you lots of headaches in the
future. Use one to two bales per 1,000 square feet.
Spread the straw out evenly. If you have a hilly area, it’s best to use both the green mulch
and hay to stabilize the soil in case of a heavy rain.
Keep newly seeded areas moist in the top two inches through irrigation. Temporary surface
drying is acceptable, but should be kept to a minimum.
When the seedlings reach a height of two inches, watering should be adjusted to two to three
times per week for 20 to 30 minutes. Soil moisture should be three to five inches deep.
Do not mow the areas until the new seedlings are up about three inches.
Make sure you have a sharp mower blade on your mower to prevent pulling the seedlings
out of the ground.
A dull blade also shreds the grass blades, weakens the turf and turns the tips brown. Dull
blades may also increase the severity of foliar turfgrass diseases.
For most lawns in New Jersey, I suggest a mowing height between 2½ to 3½ inches.
Lawns mowed at higher heights tend to have deeper roots, less weed problems, and look more
attractive.
Good luck!
As always, I hope you find the information in the Gardener News informative and enjoyable.
Until next time…Keep the “garden” in the Garden State.
-Tom
Editor’s Note: Tom Castronovo is executive editor and publisher of Gardener News, as
well as host of The Gardener News Show. He is a horticultural and community educator
dedicated to providing inspiration to gardeners everywhere while illuminating the most
up-to-the minute horticultural approaches.
Robert Belleck
Water Garden Specialist
4 September, 2011
September begins with
back-to-school for families
with school-age children
and back to regular hours
and business at work for
everyone else. All of a
sudden, things get hectic.
School sports start, the
running around begins at a
rapid pace. In addition to all
that, there are more people
on the road, which makes it
harder to get from one place
to another.
Convenience and ease
rule the work/school week.
Whenever we can, we find
shortcuts to life that make
things easy. Whether it is
getting a friend to pick up
the kids or the dry cleaning,
or grabbing that easy meal
that adds time back into your
day. This time of year, the
week flies by.
Food decisions are driven
by speed and convenience.
Sure, we all want to eat
healthy, but who has the
time? We have every good
intention to skip the fast
food restaurant, the pizza
joint, or the hot dog stand.
Sometimes it is just too easy
to succumb.
There are many good
choices at your local market
Gardener News
Passionate About Produce
By Paul Kneeland
The King of Produce
Convenience Foods for Busy People
to pick up convenient,
healthy snacks for your child
or yourself. Some products
are already cut and ready for
you to eat or cook. Others are
pickup food that can easily
be consumed. Very often,
these ingredients for your
breakfast, lunch or dinner
save you time and money
(time is money, so they say).
Ready-to-eat items are
perfect for a meal, snack or
dessert. The most popular
items are chunked fruit.
Chunked fruit is mostly
popular for the ready-toeat fashion of the product
but also is known for little
to no waste – no skins to
cut off, no seeds to get rid
of. Berry mixes and other
fruit medleys are appealing
to the eye and palette and
are unquestionably good for
you. There is also a huge
following for cut mangoes.
Mangoes are perceived to
be too hard to cut, so most
people avoid them even
though they are the most
popular fruit in the world.
Gaining in popularity
are apple slices. Apple slices
basically come in sweet and
tart flavor profiles. Sweet
apples are mainly the Gala
and the Fuji apple. Granny
Smith apples are used for
the tart apples. Sliced apples
come loose in bags or in
snack packs that can easily
be dropped into a lunchbox.
Some sliced apple packets
come with caramel dip
that will entice you to add
additional flavor to the apple.
On the vegetable side of
things, sugar snap peas have
piqued the interest of food
lovers. Carrot and celery
sticks are great for you, but
Look Who’s Reading the Gardener News!
It’s in the news
Tom Castronovo/Photo
New Jersey Farm Bureau (NJFB) President Richard Nieuwenhuis looks over
the “A Jersey Fresh peach will bring sweetness to your day every time” story
in the August Gardener News. Nieuwenhuis, owner-operator of Scenic Valley
Greenhouses LLC in White Township, is currently serving a third three-year term
as the organization’s president, a post he has held since 2002. He is also serving
a second two-year term on the American Farm Bureau Federation’s (AFBF)
Board of Directors. He has been Northeast representative to the AFBF since
2007. The mission of the NJFB is to represent the agricultural producers and
enterprises of New Jersey at all levels of government - local, county, state, federal
and international. AFBF is the unified national voice of agriculture, working
through their grassroots organizations to enhance and strengthen the lives of rural
Americans and to build strong, prosperous agricultural communities.
why not go down a different
road every once in a while?
Sugar snap peas are eaten
whole and are very tasty.
Dip in some ranch dressing
and you have made yourself
a nice snack!
Also
growing
in
popularity is jicama. Jicama
is also known as a Mexican
Potato. It is crunchy and not
as starchy as potatoes that
we know as mainstream. It
resembles more of a root
than a tuber. Jicama is used
on salads for the crunchy
texture, simply peel the skin
and cut into small cubes.
Jicama can also be used in
a vegetable crudite platter.
Cut into sticks, rinse and lay
onto the platter – also great
with ranch dressing.
Ready-to-cook items
start with diced and sliced
onions – a great start to any
meal – and also include
diced peppers, stir fry mixes,
broccoli and cauliflower
florets, and baby carrots.
Pick up a nice piece of
seafood, chicken, or beef
and use some ready-to-eat
vegetables for appetizers
or salad and ready-to-cook
vegetables to compliment
your protein. It’s not as
hard as your think to put
these products together for
a fast and nutritious meal.
Avoid takeout as much as
you can. Get your daily
portions of fresh fruits and
vegetables, which is at
least half your plate. Go
to www.choosemyplate.
gov for more information
on getting the most out of
your meals. Take the time to
eat what is best for you and
your family.
Editor’s Note: Paul Kneeland
is the Vice President of
Produce and Floral for
Kings Super Markets. He
has been in the food business
for 26 years, has a degree
in Business Management
from Boston College and is
certified in food safety with
ServSafe. He can be reached at
[email protected]
Gardener News
Farmers markets…a new way of life
September, 2011 5
Tom Castronovo/Photo
Craig Korb, executive chef for The Crab’s Claw Inn, Lavallette, along with his daughter Lucy, center, met up with New Jersey Secretary of Agriculture
Douglas H. Fisher, left, and Patricia N. Dombroski, regional administrator, Food and Nutrition Service, Mid-Atlantic Region, United States Department
of Agriculture at the Seaside Park Farmers Market on Monday, August 8, 2011. The Korbs were looking over all the Jersey Fresh produce the market has
to offer, and doing a little personal shopping. Secretary Fisher and USDA Regional Administrator Dombroski were on hand to officially kick off Farmers
Market Week. Secretary Fisher presented the market with a proclamation from Governor Chris Christie designating the week of August 7 to 13 as Farmers
Market Week in New Jersey. Likewise, Dombroski presented a proclamation for National Farmers Market Week. The Seaside Park Farmers Market,
located in Marina Field, has five farmers and 14 other vendors. The market operates on Mondays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. There are 147 community farmers
markets in New Jersey, 12 of which are new this year. Farmers who attend these markets sell produce they’ve picked at the peak of ripeness within 24
hours of sale to ensure the best taste and highest quality. To locate a nearby community farmers market, visit www.jerseyfresh.nj.gov.
6 September, 2011
Gardener News
Unique Plants
By Bob LaHoff
Nursery Specialist
“Dreadlocks”
One of the things I love about plants is the image they can conjure up. While the total
landscape can leave an indelible impression of beauty in your mind, I like dissecting the parts and
seeing the individual beauty of a plant. For instance, a large specimen of weeping White Pine,
Pinusstrobus“Pendula,” or weeping Norway spruce, Piceaabies“Pendula,” can look prehistoric
and stoic. To me, both plants, in their mature state, look like Aloysius Snuffleupagus aka Mr.
Snuffleupagus or Snuffy. If you have kids or remember your childhood well enough, you know
I’m speaking about one of the Muppet characters from Sesame Street. A woolly mammoth, without
tusks or visible ears that is similar in shape to a dinosaur. Two other plants that have proven to be
fun in our garden, with very distinct style and texture, remind me of dreadlocks. Dreadlocks, for
those of you who don’t know, are matted coils of hair also called locks, dreads or Jata.
A Western Red Cedar, Thujaplicata“Whipcord,” has for many years adorned our garden.
Unusual foliage and a mop-like head appearance, “Whipcord” has long, thick, glossy tendrils.
I have likened this plant also to Medusa, a Gorgon in Greek mythology. Clearly an unusual and
interesting plant, ours has amassed compliments for years just sitting in a cobalt blue pot. The
conversation usually starts with, “Wow!” or, “What is that?” “Whipcord” has proven to be a
plant that most non-plant people remember. Unlike the species, which is a true giant in the forest,
“Whipcord” has its branches pushing upward and quickly arching and cascading downward.
With crisp green foliage in the summer, “Whipcord” picks up bronze margins in the autumn
and winter, matching its inner wood. Resistant to a deer’s appetite, at least so far, “Whipcord’s”
overall stature is about five feet tall and almost as wide. A perfect siting for this dwarf conifer is
sun until midday and a bit of protection from hot afternoon sun. One of the stronger landscape
design solutions I have seen with this plant is an embankment of “Whipcords” some 50 in total,
with White Birch, Betulapapyrifera, coming through the mass. Beautiful, strong white stilts
help bounce and punctuate each of these plants, leaving an impression in my mind years later.
Strong, white peeling bark against deep green, glossy tendrils. What a great combination of
textures! Intolerant of dry conditions, remember that Western Red Cedars are indigenous to the
Pacific Northwest. Hence, cool, moist forest areas prevail. We have Drakes Crossing Nursery
in Silverton, Oregon, to thank for this unique and whimsical cultivar. I’m still waiting for my
light-brown seed cones (about a half-inch long) to appear.
An Oriental Arborvitae, Thuja (syn. Platycladus) orientalis“Frankie Boy” with similar
texture also reminds me of dreadlocks. “Filaments of lemon-yellow foliage jut out from its
lime-green interior” (Iseli Nursery). Benefitting from similar lighting and cultural conditions
as “Whipcord,”“Frankie Boy,” to me, has more of a football-standing-on-end, shape to its
appearance. Appreciating a yearly haircut, “Frankie Boy” will maintain a more formal look
with just a little nip and tuck. Not to mention its coloring will be consistent to the before
mentioned. Again, here’s another plant with unique, ropelike, brightly colored tendrils that is
sure to prompt questions and offer a playful gardening experience. Finally, it has been said that
the body and texture of this plant can help substitute the effects of ornamental grasses. “Frankie
Boy” has no winter dieback and bright color all year.
Plants never cease to amaze me! Appreciative of all types, I am constantly admiring the
forms, colors and textures that the plant world has to offer. Whether it is bark, foliage or flowers,
there is never enough time to learn it all. I always chuckle when people think all plants or trees
are just green. I am reminded of the musical Gigi when HonoréLachaille’s (Maurice Chevalier)
appreciation for life is repudiated by Gaston Lachaille (Louis Jourdan). In it there is a song
called “It’s A Bore,” where trees are said to always be green. Honoré’s view of “the myriad of
treasures we have got” and “you can hear every tree almost saying look at me” have long been
sentiments of mine. Life is too short not to have fun! With all the plant choices available to you
today, why plant the same old impatiens and begonias in your planters? Spice things up, learn
a new plant and imbibe the treasures that nature has afforded us.
Editor’s Note: Bob LaHoff is co-owner of Hall’s Garden Center and Florist in Union
County, a member of the Union County Board of Agriculture, the New Jersey Nursery
and Landscape Association, the American Boxwood Society, the European Boxwood
Society, the Metro Hort Group, Inc., the Garden Writers Association, a lifetime
member of the Conifer Society and past member of the retail council for Monrovia
Growers. He can be reached at (908) 665-0331.
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Gardener News
One was by a red fox in
a community park and the
other was from a raccoon
in a backyard in an in-town
neighborhood.
Yikes!
These events prompted me
to learn more, so here it is.
Rabies is a viral disease
of mammals which infects
the central nervous system,
according to my research.
Foxes are common carriers
of the disease, which is
usually transmitted through
animal bites. There are
different forms of the
disease; (1) Dumb Rabies:
This form of the disease
attacks the spinal cord and
causes the fox to isolate
itself in its den, where
it eventually dies.
(2)
Paralysis: The animal may
exhibit signs of localized
paralysis, such as abnormal
facial
expressions,
drooping head or sagging
jaw. (3) Aggression: The
rabies-infected
animal
may show signs of extreme
aggression, attacking other
animals or inanimate
objects. The animal may
also bite its own limbs.
(4) Furious Rabies: This
form causes the animal to
display the stereotypical
September, 2011 7
The Miscellaneous Gardener
By Richard W. Perkins
Freelance Writer
“Two Recent Urban Attacks - Whoa!”
symptoms
of
rabies,
including losing all sense
of direction and fear, and
wandering considerable
distances during the day,
and most of these wild
animals are nocturnal
by nature.
Once the
stereotypical symptoms
appear, death usually
occurs within three days.
Rabies is an infection
that killed almost every one
of its victims before the
vaccinationwas developed.
Rabies is speculated to
have existed in the United
States before colonization
by European settlers. The
first documented incident
of rabies occurred in 1703
in what is now California.
Dogs and foxes were the
most common carriers
of rabies outbreaks in
the 1700s. The problem
was exacerbated by the
importation of dogs and
red foxes from England
to the United States for
the sport of fox hunting.
Hmmmmm.
On July 6, 1885, the
very first rabies vaccination
for post-exposure treatment
was given to a 9-year-old
boy by the name of Joseph
Meister. Joseph Meister
had been mauled by a dog
infected with rabies. No
calling 911 in those days.
Two French scientists,
Emile Roux and Louis
Pasteur, developed the first
vaccine and administered it
to the boy. Joseph Meister
recovered and lived until
the age of 54.The original
rabies vaccine developed
by Louis Pasteur and
Emile Roux was created by
harvesting the virus from a
dead infected rabbit. The
virus was then put out to
dry for five to 10 days,
weakening it significantly.
The
weakened
virus
was then injected into
the patient, effectively
infecting him with a mild
form of the virus. This
allowed the human to build
up an immunity to the
virus, with a small risk of
succumbing to the vaccine.
In 1967, the human rabies
vaccine, H.D.C.V. was
created. The H.D.C.V. had
been administered to more
than 1.5 million people
as of 2006. In 1979, Dr.
George Beran of the Van
Houweling
Research
Laboratory created a
version of the vaccine for
dogs that gave them a threeyear immunity from rabies.
Are your dogs vaccinated?
And then came the
recombinant rabies vaccine:
The V-RG vaccine was
created in 1984 by people
at the Wistar Institute. It
was turned into a commercial
product with the trademark
Raboral. It has been proven
to be harmless to humans
and safe for a large variety
of wildlife that might
accidentally get it from prey.
The V-RG vaccine has been
used in the United States,
Belgium, Germany and France
to prevent rabies outbreaks
in wildlife, administered
orally through bait. Through
this method, Germany had
been completely free of new
rabies cases for two years
as of 2008, and is believed
to be rabies-free altogether.
Vaccinating wildlife results
in a drastic reduction in the
number of human cases.
Thanks for reading and see
ya next month.
Editors Note: Richard
Perkins
is
an
avid
horticulturist, a member
of the Maine Writers &
Publishers Alliance and the
Seacoast Writers Association.
He can be reached at
[email protected]
8 September, 2011
Gardener News
Do you have dead
or
dying
evergreens?
(Continued from Page 1)
harming a large number of
trees, including Norway
spruce and white pine.
The order, issued under
the Federal Insecticide,
Fungicide and Rodenticide
Act (FIFRA), requires
DuPont to stop the sale and
distribution of Imprelis in
the U.S. and outlines specific
conditions to ensure that the
removal of Imprelis from
the market meets legal
requirements.
This action follows EPA’s
investigation into why a large
number of evergreens and
other trees have been harmed
following the use of the
herbicide. In its evaluation,
EPA is investigating whether
these incidents are the
result of product misuse,
inadequate warnings and use
directions on the product’s
label, persistence in soil and
plant material, uptake of the
product through the root
systems and absorbed into the
plant tissue, environmental
factors, potential runoff
issues or other possible
causes.
This is what is on the
label:
Surface water advisory:
This product may impact
surface water quality due
to runoff of rain water. This
is especially true for poorly
draining soils and soils
with shallow ground water.
This product is classified as
having high potential for
reaching surface water via
runoff for several months
after application. A level,
well maintained vegetative
buffer strip between areas
to which this product is
applied and surface water
features such as ponds,
streams, and springs will
reduce the potential loading
of aminocyclopyrachlor
from runoff water and
sediment. Runoff of this
product will be reduced by
avoiding applications when
rainfall is forecasted to
occur within 48 hours.
Groundwater advisory:
Aminocyclopyrachlor
has
properties
and
characteristics associated
with chemicals detected in
ground water. This chemical
may leach into ground water
if used in areas where soils
are permeable, particularly
where the water table is
shallow.
Do not apply this
product to exposed roots of
trees and shrubs.
Do not apply this
product in commercial
nurseries or greenhouses.
Do not use grass
clippings from treated areas
for mulching or compost,
or allow for collection to
composting facilities. Grass
clippings must either be
left on the treated area,
or, if allowed by local yard
waste regulations, disposed
of in the trash.
Applicators must give
verbal or written notice to
property owner/property
manager/residents to not
use grass clippings from
treated turf for mulch or
compost.
DuPont has also listed
the following information
on their website http://www.
imprelis-facts.com/
Planting new trees:
The best time to plant
a tree is in the fall or
early spring (October to
April) when tree growth is
dormant and temperatures
are cooler.
For DuPont Imprelis
herbicide
treatments
applied at labeled rates
prior to (Cont. on page 17)
Garden Centers Offer A New Local Bounty
Tom Castronovo/Photos
A few of New Jersey’s best garden centers that offer Jersey Grown plant material all season long are now adding Jersey Fresh produce to their
summer offerings.
As a way to encourage the predominately spring and fall customer to shop during the summer months, which is normally a slower season for them,
garden centers are now hoping that their regular seasonal customers, who rely and trust them during the spring and fall season for the healthiest plant
material and highest quality garden accessories, will now shop at their garden centers during the summer months for the season’s best fruits, vegetables
and herbs, including longstanding kitchen favorites, as well the most flavorful heirlooms. And yes, Jersey Fresh sweet corn. The produce that they are
offering is usually harvested at the peak of ripeness, within 24 hours of sale, to ensure the best-tasting and highest quality. They are also hoping their
produce customers can reduce the miles a meal travels between farm and fork.
Until now, garden centers have relied on plant and flower sales, and related gardening items such as mulches, decorative stones, pavers, patio
furniture, fertilizers, grass seed and tools to survive. Now they are hoping that their new fresh, healthy and delicious produce line will help with their
bottom line.
Garden centers want to also make it easier for their customers to be able to purchase some of the more than 100 different kinds of nutritious fruits
and vegetables the GardenState’s farmers grow. Nationally, New Jersey is one of the Top-10 producers of blueberries, cranberries, peaches, tomatoes,
bell peppers, cucumbers, snap beans, spinach, and squash.
Representatives from the New Jersey Legislature, who enthusiastically support the Jersey Fresh program and the GardenState’s garden centers,
stopped by Metropolitan Plant Exchange in West Orange, and at Barlow’s in Sea Girt to see how they were making out with their new, Jersey Fresh
produce venture.
Pictured above is Tony Maiello, general manager of Metropolitan Plant Exchange in West Orange, left, with New Jersey Senator Richard J. Codey.
Second from right is Leslie Barlow, co-owner, Barlow’s in Sea Girt, with New Jersey Senator Sean T. Kean.
To learn more about the Jersey Fresh program, log on to www.jerseyfresh.nj.gov
Gardener News
CASE FILES
From the Rutgers Master Gardeners of Union County Garden Help Line
By Madeline Flahive DiNardo, Union County Agricultural Agent and Master
Gardeners, MC Schwartz and James Keane
Q. I’m planning on seeding my lawn this fall. Under the new NJ fertilizer regulations, will I be
able to use a fertilizer that contains phosphorus?
-Wondering in Winfield
A. Yes, you can use a fertilizer containing phosphorus to help get the seeds established.
The NJ fertilizer regulations do ban the use of phosphorus fertilizers on turf areas, but there are
some exceptions. Fertilizers containing phosphorus may be used for the initial establishment,
re-establishment or repair of lawns.
The Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station (NJAES) Cooperative Extension website
http://snyderfarm.rutgers.edu/fertilizerlawFAQ.html has the information you need to grow a healthy
lawn and protect water quality. The regulations are meant to protect water resources from impairment
by reducing the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus used on turf areas, such as home lawns.
Phosphorus is an important nutrient for newly seeded area as it promotes early root growth, thus
improving plant vigor. When applied properly, phosphorous binds to soil particles and does not move
through the soil.
The concern is that improperly applied phosphorus fertilizers can end up in our waterways by
erosion. Just as turf needs phosphorous for root growth, aquatic weeds and algae thrive on phosphorus.
High levels of phosphorous are detrimental to water quality because it can lead to eutrophication, the
growth of algae and weeds. As an over abundance of algae and weeds decompose naturally, they
deplete oxygen levels in the water. Low oxygen levels are harmful to fish and other aquatic life.
The first step to making a proper fertilizer application is to do a soil test. Rutgers Cooperative
Extension (RCE) offers a soil testing service. Soil test kits are available for $20 at your county
RCE office. For more details visit the Rutgers Soil Test Lab website at http://njaes.rutgers.edu/
soiltestinglab/.
You can receive the results by email or regular mail. The soil test results will show the current
levels of phosphorus, potassium and micronutrients in the soil. Based on these findings, your soil
test recommendations will provide you information on the proper ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and
potassium (N:P:K) to use on your lawn. The recommendations will refer you to a website that can be
used to find a list of commercially available fertilizers that have the recommended N:P:K ratio.
Suppose your recommendation is to use a 2-1-1 ratio product. When selecting a fertilizer product,
you’ll notice that there are three numbers on the product label, such as 20-10-10. These numbers are
referred to as the “fertilizer grade”. The first number, 20, represents the total pounds of nitrogen in 100
pounds of the product. The second (10) and third (10) numbers represent the pounds of phosphorous
and potassium respectively in 100 pounds of product. So, a 20-10-10 product has a N:P:K ratio of
2-1-1.
Some soil test results may show that one nutrient level such as phosphorous is below optimum and
the other, potassium, is optimum or above optimum. There are fertilizer products that are available
as a single nutrient. One example is rock phosphate, which has a 0-3-0 grade. If phosphorous is
optimum and potassium is below optimum, a 0-0-7 product, greensand, could be used to raise the
potassium level.
Even if phosphorus levels are optimum, the use of a fertilizer containing phosphorus at seeding is
recommended because phosphorus does not move in the soil. It’s beneficial to apply phosphorous to
the root zone at seeding so it is readily available to the new seedlings.
To prevent erosion and insure that the phosphorous stays where it is needed, the fertilizer should
be incorporated into the top 4-6 inches of soil. Mixing the fertilizer into the soil prior to seeding is
preferred over a surface application because there is less of a chance of runoff and the new roots will
absorb the phosphorus.
Cover the newly seeded area with weed seed free hay, such as salt hay, to prevent the seeds and
fertilizer from being washed away in a heavy rain. One or two bales (50-90 lbs.) will cover a 1,000
square foot area. Once the turf is established, remove the hay.
Q. Are there any other situations in which I can apply a fertilizer containing phosphorus to
my lawn?
A. Yes, there are three. One is if you have a soil test recommendation for an established lawn
indicating that the soil is deficient in phosphorous and an application is need to bring the phosphorus
to an optimum level. The recommendation cannot be more than three years old.
An action you can take to prevent the phosphorus from getting into waterways is to apply the
fertilizer when core aerating the lawn to get the fertilizer down into the root zone. Remember
phosphorus binds to soil particles, so aerating will reduce the chance of erosion.
The second situation you may use a phosphorus fertilizer on turf is if applying a liquid or granular
fertilizer under the soil surface, directly to the roots. The third instance is if you are using an animal
or vegetable “organic” manure provided you follow the label instructions. However, no more than
0.25 pound of phosphorus per 1,000 square feet can be applied.
Following soil test recommendations and properly applying fertilizers will protect our waterways
and beautiful green lawns.
Editor’s Note: The Union County Master Gardener’s HELP LINE fields hundreds of citizen
inquiries a year – offering assistance with their indoor as well as outdoor gardening and pest
control questions. Responses to resident phone calls and on-site visits comply with current Rutgers
NJ Agricultural Experiment Station recommendations. Union County residents can call (908) 6549852 or email [email protected] for assistance. A complete listing of Rutgers Cooperative
Extension (RCE) offices where you can contact a Master Gardener in your area can be found on
page 22 of the Gardener News. Free RCE fact sheets are available at www.njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs.
September, 2011 9
New Members Take Seats on NJ
State Board of Agriculture
A diversified fourth generation farmer from Somerset
County and a flower and plant grower from Monmouth County
were sworn in as the two newest members of the New Jersey
State Board of Agriculture during the board’s reorganization
meeting in Eastampton on July 27.
Richard Norz and Robert A. Swanekamp were selected for
the positions at the February 2011 State Agricultural Convention
and later nominated by Governor Chris Christie and confirmed
by the State Senate.
Also during the reorganization meeting, Pittsgrove vegetable
farmers Henry DuBois Jr. was selected to serve as Board
President and East Brunswick fruit and vegetable farmer James
Giamarese as Vice President.
The State Board of Agriculture, comprising eight members,
is the policy-making body of the New Jersey Department of
Agriculture. Its members serve for four years, with two members
being replaced each year. By law, at least four of its members
must represent the top commodity groups in the state. Members
serve without salary, but may be reimbursed for expenses. For
more information, visit www.nj.gov/agriculture/about/sba.
Photo Contest Celebrates New
Jersey Sustainable Agriculture
(HILLSBOROUGH, NJ) – Photographers are invited to show
how much they love New Jersey’s sustainable agriculture in the
Northeast Organic Farming Association of New Jersey’s 2011
Photo Contest.
Submit your best pictures of your farm, your garden, your
chickens, your bees or other things farming-related.
The contest winner will receive a coupon for one full
conference admission to the NOFA-NJ Winter Conference.
(Not including special pre-conference seminars.)
The deadline for submissions is Oct. 1, 2011.
All photos must be of a New Jersey location. Photos must
be submitted in a high-resolution JPEG format and can be sent
to Joanna at [email protected].
Every entry must include the following: The photographer’s
name, email address and phone number; the location of the
picture and names of any people in the picture.
Al entrants agree to allow NOFA-NJ the use of their photos
for print and web promotional and communication materials.
For more information, call 908-371-1111 or visit www.
nofanj.org
10 September, 2011
Gardener News
The Landscaper
By Evan Dickerson
NJNLA
Wet and Flooding to Dry and Parched Sounds Like a
Beach Boys Song
Gardener News
is
Now Accepting Nominations
for its
2011
Person of the Year Award.
Do you know someone in the “Green Industry”
whose contributions deserve recognition?
This person must be from the landscape,
nursery, garden center or gardening industries
who best epitomizes concern for, involvement
in, and dedication to those pursuits. Or a person
who performs exemplary outstanding service to
the green industry.
The deadline for receiving nominations for 2011
is November 1, 2011.
Gardener News annually bestows our
“Person of the Year” Award in our
January edition.
To download the form, please visit
www.GardenerNews.com and click on the
“Person of the Year” link on the left side.
Thank you!
I know I sound like I’m on vacation and we have snuck away for a few days to soak
up the sun and catch the odd fluke and blackfish. But after this brief respite, we will be
hard at work remedying our lawns and landscape plants, which are still trying to figure
out what the Jersey skies have in store for them.
At times and we have been broiling in 100-degree heat with no rain for days, and other
times we have been flooded for days. Usually we have to be aware of the judicious use
of water at this time of year, but that is not our number-one concern now. It seems that
we may actually get through a whole year without water restrictions. We still need to be
judicious with our water use, but we can at least prudently water our plants to keep proper
hydration, not only your lawn but your landscape plants as well. If after getting a thorough
soaking your plants don’t respond, it is time to consider replacement.
Before we replace plants, we need to consider if there is any other reason which may
be contributing to their demise. Has there been any change in exposure which could have
created more or less sunlight or created a drainage problem? Some examples may be tree
removal, surrounding plants which have grown, building additions or changes or just
competition from the surrounding plantings. These all need to be considered since we
usually see more than one component contribute to a problem for our landscape.
If we are convinced that weather was what caused our plants to fail, then we can
replace with the same or similar plant material. However, if it is obvious that we have
more than just the varying conditions, we will need to address the problem differently.
Obviously, more sunlight will create the need to avoid plants which will not thrive in the
sun as well as avoiding plants which need full sun in shadier conditions than there used
to be. Care needs to be given to investigate the soil conditions and whether the site is
too wet or if there is competition in the root zone, which may create a condition where
some of the plants roots are in too much competition for nutrients and water. In these
instances, changes in plant material, as well as more excavation to create a more favorable
environment for the plants roots, would be necessary.
Our lawns have for the most part taken a beating in this summer’s weather. September
is the perfect time to plant and over-seed as well. The cooler, longer nights early in the
month offer a perfect environment for seed germination and a successful lawn renovation.
Again, an investigation into the conditions which affect our plants also applies for our
lawns. Have any conditions changed which have created more or less sunlight or even
the growth and expansion of existing trees and shrubs may impact not only the exposure
but also the root zone? Masses of roots just below the surface can make for challenging
lawn growth. Often we will substitute ground covers in these areas, which will become a
successful alternative as well as helping to minimize maintenance.
Once the site conditions have been addressed, we can over-seed. Picking the proper
seed for your lawn can be as simple as using a good sunny or local blend in the sun and
a shady mix in the shade. Just be sure to remember that all lawns need adequate light
even if filtered in the shade and, just as important, lawns need air space. Elevating some
of your low hanging trees and shrubs can be of immeasurable help in a successful lawn
renovation.
The only way a lawn renovation can be successful is if we have good seed-to-soil
contact. On small lawns and spot seeding, we can incorporate the seed into these bare
spots by cultivating it in and even topdressing a seed and soil mix. On larger lawns or
thin lawns where we want to get a fuller crop growing, we will need to use one of the
many seeding machines available. A slit seeder, lawn comber or groomer, or a core aerator
or spiker can all be used. Some of these machines will drop the seed into the seed bed
automatically and others will need to have the seed applied after the operation is complete.
In areas with high thatch accumulation, it may be necessary to remove some of this layer
before adding seed. Again, we need excellent seed-to-soil contact or our efforts will be in
vain. Open areas where complete seeding is needed can be worked by the use of a seed
and soil mix applied or cultivation and seeding as well as hydro-seeding. These areas will
need some cover after seeding is completed. Use of salt hay or a cellulose seed top dress
are excellent options on areas which are not hydro-seeded. Hydro-seeded areas should
come with their own mulch applied as part of the mix.
Your local landscape professional, nursery and garden center, and even the equipment
rental companies can be of assistance in advising you how to make your renovations a
success, whether a do-it- yourself job or one you will contract out for.
Evan Dickerson is a senior director of the New Jersey Nursey and Landscape Association.
He can be reached at (908) 753-1490. To learn more about the New Jersey Nursey and
Landscape Association, please visit: www.NJNLA.org
Gardener News
Landscaper directory
September, 2011 11
Residential
Ground
Grading
Solutions Light Excavating
Member of:
FLORIST
700 Springfield Avenue
Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922
Phone: (908) 665-0331
Fax: (908) 665-9804
email: [email protected]
www.hallsgarden.com
Design and installations new and older renovations
Perennial rock gardens•Backhoe work
Water & Drainage problems solved•Stone work
732-668-2012
NJHIC# 13VH03659100
Serving Central
New Jersey
WE HAVE
BULK COMPOST
311 Roycefield Road, Hillsborough (Just off Dukes Parkway West) Visit Our Showroom
& Display Area
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Baseball Infield Mix
12 September, 2011
Business directory
Gardener News
Gardener News
September, 2011 13
14 September, 2011
Gardener News
Gardener News
We’re almost ready to
start working on our “dream”
landscape, but we still have
one more step to do before
we can finally sit down and
work on our plan. We need
to perform what is called a
“site inventory.” Unlike the
site analysis, where we were
evaluating and getting a “feel”
for the property, a site inventory
requires you to measure, locate
and draw in any amenities
that are not included in your
original survey.
These amenities can
include natural features like
significant trees, a stream,
pond, or rock outcrop. They
also
include
manmade
structures, such as an existing
swimming pool, deck or shed
and in many parts of New
Jersey, things like a septic
field, wellhead or propane
tank. If there is something on
your property and you are not
sure whether you’re going to
keep it or not, add it to your
inventory for now. Its fate will
be determined later on, during
the design process.
With that said, if there are
plants or hardscape features
that you know you are going
to remove, don’t waste time
measuring their locations
September, 2011 15
Creating Outdoor Spaces
By Jody Shilan, MLA
Landscape Designer
Measure Twice, Cut Once
or labeling what they are. A
simple TBR (to be removed)
note on your survey is all you
need. If, however, you feel
compelled to brush up on your
Latin and identify each plant
before throwing them in the
chipper, I can’t stop you.
Still working with your
scaled property survey from
your site analysis, your goal
now is to take measurements
from your property and as
accurately as possible locate
them on your survey. The
best way to do this is to take
measurements from a fixed
structure, such as your house
or garage and then measure
the distance to an existing tree
or hardscape feature. It is best
to take one measurement at
a time and then transfer that
measurement to your survey.
Don’t make yourself
too crazy trying to be exact;
just do the best that you can.
Remember, you are working
off of a scaled drawing, so
any mistakes that you do
make will be minimal. With
that said, if you truly do
need precise measurements,
topographical data or lot
coverage percentages, you
should contact a land surveyor
or engineer to perform this task
for you.
For most of my site
inventories, I just use a 25-foot
tape measure, my eyes and a
camera. Equipped with your
property survey, a clipboard
and a pencil, it’s time to begin.
Let’s say that there is an
existing oak tree to remain and
you want to locate it on your
survey. To keep things easy,
we’ll assume that it lines up
with the corner of your house.
You take your tape and measure
it and it’s 20 feet away.
Now, using your survey,
which we’ll assume is scaled
at 1-inch-equals-20-feet, you
locate the same corner on the
drawing and measure 1 inch
and put a dot there to show
where the center of the tree is
located. Label it oak tree and
move on to the next tree or
amenity.
Continue walking around
the property, repeating this
same procedure over and over
again until you’ve drawn in
everything that is significant on
the site. When you’re finished,
you should have a drawing
with a lot of dots, funny shapes
and handwritten notes that can
only be deciphered by you or
Nicholas Cage. Remember, this
drawing is not supposed to be
beautiful.It’s for informational
purposes only. Save your
creative skills for your design
and landscape plan.
For objects that are too far
from the house to accurately
measure, try to use things
along the property line like an
existing fence or corner stake.
If there is nothing nearby to
give you context, just eyeball
it and approximate its location
on your survey. Make sure to
take plenty of pictures along
the way.
The more you understand
the site, the better your design
will be. Trust me!
Now you’re ready to begin
working on your dream plan.
Editors Note: Jody Shilan
is the owner of Jody Shilan
Designs in Wyckoff, where
he provides landscape design
and consulting services for
homeowners and landscape
contractors. He earned
his bachelors degree in
Landscape
Architecture
from Cook College, Rutgers
University and his masters
degree
in
Landscape
Architecture
from
the
University of Massachusetts,
Amherst. Currently, he is
President of the New Jersey
Landscape
Contractors
Association (NJLCA). He can
be reached at 201-783-2844
or [email protected].
16 September, 2011
Gardener News
What a great summer
we had, and are still
having! It was hot, sunny
and overall the weather
was great. The ocean
was clean, beautiful and
teeming with people all
summer long. Now all
the kids are going back
to school and we will
bid another summer a
fond farewell. Lest we
forget, September is
probably my favorite
month down the shore.
Every weekend there is
a festival or street fair of
some kind, the weather
is usually still awesome
with a bit less humidity
and the ocean is free
and the temperature is
generally still warm.
Crowds have thinned a
bit but people are still
around. I tell you, it’s
the best time to come
down. The boardwalks
are still open and last
but not least, football has
arrived. Grilling is still
the top cooking method
and Jersey produce, as
well as seafood, is still in
full swing. So get out on
that grill and enjoy the
weather while it lasts.
The
recipe
I’m
writing about this month
is pretty much a Crab’s
Claw classic. A former
employee and great
friend of mine put this
on the menu years ago
and it has enjoyed great
success over the years. A
few years back, I added
a little sauce to it to kick
it up a notch. The recipe
is cedar planked salmon
with a maple-bourbon
glaze. This can be made
using any type of salmon
availableor, alternately,
with trout. We use farmraised Atlantic salmon
at the restaurant, which
works out nicely. The
cedar plank is first
soaked in water in order
to stop it from burning
too quickly. The cedar
imparts a nice smoky
flavor into the salmon
as well as making for a
great presentation. For a
large group I recommend
buying a whole side
of salmon and a larger
cedar plank. It looks
great and the smell of the
cedar is sure to impress
your guests. This recipe
is also super easy and the
finishing glaze is a nice
touch at the end.
Next month I will
be focusing on soups.
The fall is a great
time for soups due to
the cooler weather and
the large amounts of
produce, such as squash,
available. If anyone has
any requests for certain
recipes, please contact
the Gardener News at
Mail@GardenerNews.
com Thanks and enjoy!
Cedar planked salmon
with maple-bourbon
glaze (serves 2)
Maple-bourbon glaze
1/2 cup bourbon, such
as Jim Beam
1/4 cup pure maple
syrup
-in a small pot, reduce
bourbon by half
-add maple syrup
and simmer for about 3
minutes
-remove from heat
and set aside to cool
Salmon
1 lb. salmon filet
1
UNTREATED
cedar shake, available at
Lowes, Home Depot or
Williams-Sonoma
-sea salt and fresh
ground black pepper
-soak cedar shake in
water for at least 1 hour
-heat grill to medium
temperature
-place salmon on
cedar shake and season
with salt and pepper
-place on grill and
close lid
-cook until fish is
firm and don’t worry if
the edges of the wood
begin to burn a bit. This
will help give the fish
a better, more smoky
flavor
-just before removing
from grill, brush fish
liberallywith the maplebourbon glaze and let
sit an additional minute
on the grill with the lid
closed
-serve with additional
glaze on the side.
I continue to be intrigued
by the debate over Native
Plants. They are obviously
very important for providing
food and habitat for various
animals and insects, and
many provide attractive
additions to the garden. In
spite of this, many natives
are still deemed as weeds.
Sumac is a plant that I
have long considered to be
a beautiful and tough plant
when properly sited in the
landscape. However, it is
amazing how this plant has
been maligned as not only
weedy, but poisonous! Both
are not true, but there are
reasons why Sumac has
received this reputation that
we hope to dispel!
Found
in
the
Anacardiaceae or cashew
family, the common name
of Sumac is from the ancient
Aramaic word of Summaq,
meaning dark red. It is in
reference to the dark red
spice that is made from the
fruits of the Sumac Rhus
coriaria, which is popular
in Greek and Middle Eastern
cuisine. It imparts a lemonlike taste and is used as a rub
for meats or as a light garnish
on salads. The genus name
of Rhus is derived from the
Greek word Rhous, which
means stream or flow. I am
not certain why the plant
was described as one that
flows; perhaps a reference to
the many species that travel
by underground stems and
form large colonies. It is this
attribute of spreading that
give people the illusion that
Sumacs are weedy. One of
the reasons I typically prefer
botanical names is due to the
confusion that often arises
with common names. Poison
Sumac,
Toxicodendron
radicans, was once lumped
in the genus Rhus, but was
shifted to this genus, along
with Poison Ivy and Poison
Oak. Plants in this genus
contain oils of urushiol, a
chemical that creates severe
dermatological rashes. In
fact, Poison Sumac often
results in rashes far more
severe than Poison Ivy or
Oak, resulting in the 200+
species of Rhus receiving
the unfounded reputation for
being poisonous!
Of the many native
species
available,
the
Staghorn Sumac (Rhus
typhina) and the Aromatic
Sumac (Rhus aromatica) are
two of my favorite natives
for the garden! The Staghorn
Sumac gets its name from the
velvet-like pubescence that
appears on the current year’s
growth. Like many other
sumacs, the plants colonize
and reach 15-20 feet in a
garden setting. The leaves
are compound, meaning that
they have a central rachis
or ‘stem’ with upwards of
27 leaflets arranged along
this stem. The entire leaf,
which includes the rachis and
leaflets, are typically 1-2’ in
length and give the plant a
lacy, tropical appearance.
The cultivar ‘Laciniata’
has deeply cut leaflets,
further enhancing that lacy
appearance. Fall color is a
beautiful bevy of yellows,
oranges and scarlet while the
winter outline is coarse and
open. In June to early July,
the flowers appear in 4-8”
long panicles. The plants
are dioecious, meaning that
some plants only bare female
flowers, while others only
male. Those with female
flowers give rise to fruits
that are individually just over
1/8” in diameter and very
hairy. The fruits are gathered
into dense, ornamental
cones of a size equal to the
flower and ripen to a bright
red in August, remaining
ornamental throughout most
of the winter. The plants
thrive in hot, dry and sunny
locations and are perfectly
happy to zone 4.
Rhus aromatica or
Fragrant Sumac thrives in
similar hot, dry locations, but
is an entirely different plant.
The leaves consist of three
glossy leaflets and it lacks
that tropical appearance.
It too is suckering, but it
grows in a mounded habit
to 8’ tall. Small yellow
flowers grace the stems in
early May while the fall
color is an attractive red to
From the Deep
By Craig Korb
Executive Chef
Greetings from the Jersey shore!
The Sensational Sumac
Editor’s Note:
Craig
Korb is executive chef
at The Crab’s Claw Inn,
Lavallette, New Jersey.
He has an Associates
degree
in
Culinary
Arts and a Bachelors
degree in Food Service
Management
from
Johnson and Wales
University. For more
information
visit
www.TheCrabsClaw.com
or phone (732) 793-4447.
reddish purple and the winter
habit is more delicate. The
form called ‘Gro-low’ only
reaches 2’tall by 6’ wide and
has spectacular red fall color,
making it an ideal plant for
decorating dry slopes. Thus,
the much maligned Sumac
can be a very attractive plant
for the garden, providing
great texture and color. A
poisonous weed it certainly
is not!
Editor’s Note: Bruce,
foremost a lover of plants
since birth, is director of the
Rutgers Gardens, an adjunct
professor in Landscape
Architecture at the Rutgers
School of Environmental
and Biological Sciences,
an instructor for Rutgers NJAES Office of Continuing
and Professional Education
and chairperson of the
Garden State Gardens
group. He is a member of the
Garden Writer’s Association
and the New York Hortus
Club. He can be reached at
(732) 932-8451. For more
information, please visit
www.rutgersgardens.rutgers.edu
Gardener News
September, 2011 17
Do you have dead
or
dying
evergreens?
(Continued from Page 8)
June 1, 2011 trees can be
replanted after October
1, 2011. As an additional
precaution, do not use
Imprelis treated soil to
backfill around newly
planted trees.
For DuPont Imprelis
herbicide
treatments
applied at labeled rates
between June 1, 2011 and
June 30, 2011 trees can be
replanted after November
1, 2011. As an additional
precaution, do not use
Imprelis treated soil to
backfill around newly
planted trees.
Disposal of Trees:
Trees that are cut down
may be used for lumber or
for use as firewood.
According to the DuPont
Imprelis label directions,
the use of grass clippings
from treated areas in mulch
or compost is prohibited.
As a precaution, if your
customer’s property was
treated with Imprelis, and
a tree has been cut down,
do not chip the tree for use
in mulch or compost.
If allowed by local yard
waste regulation, trees may
be disposed of in the trash.
If allowed by local
regulations burning is
an alternative method of
disposal.
How did Imprelis get
approval in New Jersey and
why on earth would I want a
product like this applied on
my property?
After learning all about
Imprelis, these and other
very important questions
came to mind. So I thought
I would reach out to DuPont.
Why did it take so long to
pull Imprelis off the market?
If you can’t use the same
soil that comes out of the
A living sunflower labyrinth
hole to backfill a new tree,
how much Imprelis-treated
soil needs to be excavated
out of the ground? How do
you dispose of the Imprelistreated soil? Can the firewood
be used indoors? Can the
firewood be used for cooking
or roasting marshmallows?
When the trees are cut down
and chipped, what do you do
with the chips if you can’t
use them as mulch; place
them in a compost pile,
or burn them as DuPont
suggests? Basically, how
can you dispose of them?
Is the wood from the tree
toxic? My garbage man has
never taken brush or a pile
of wood that has been left at
the bottom of the driveway.
Now…why would they?!
A lot of the same
questions come to mind
about grass clippings. If your
lawn application company
Tom Castronovo/Photo
Nestled in the picturesque farmlands of Sussex County, New Jersey’s
greenest county, is a 30-acre black oil sunflower maze presented by
Liberty Farm on County Route 565 in Augusta. This 30-acre maze was
planted with over 660,000 seeds, and is believed to be the largest of its
kind in the northeast. Pictured at the maze’s grand opening are: New
Jersey Assemblyman Gary R. Chiusano, left, Raj Sinha, center, owner
of Liberty Farm, and New Jersey Assistant Secretary of Agriculture Al
Murray as they tour the SAVE (Support Agricultural Viability and the
Environment)-shaped fragrant maze. Closed-toe shoes, hats, sunscreen,
binoculars and, of course, a camera are recommended. Liberty Farm is
open Tuesdays to Sundays from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. from now until Mother
Nature finishes the show for the season.
failed to inform you about
the compost warning and
you’ve been composting
your clippings all season
long, is the compost pile
toxic? If I’ve been putting
my grass clipping around
my vegetable garden all
summer, is the produce
safe to eat? If my landscape
professional has been taking
the grass clippings from my
property and depositing them
in a municipal or county
compost facility, is that
facility now contaminated?
If I wanted to plant a
grouping of Norway spruce
on my property this fall, and
had no idea Imprelis was
applied to my lawn, since
I’ve never had spruce trees
on my property before, will
the new trees be affected?
Here is the response I
received back from Anthony
Farina at DuPont: “While
I appreciate your questions,
we are not taking specific
questions.”
I wonder how the
insurance companies are
going to handle this. To me,
there are a lot of unanswered
questions.
This is going to be a
long, bumpy ride folks.
Organic lawn care is looking
a whole lot better, for lots of
reasons…
Editor’s
Note:
Tom
Castronovo is executive
editor and publisher of
Gardener News, as well as
host of The Gardener News
Show. He is a horticultural
and community educator
dedicated to providing
inspiration to gardeners
everywhere
while
illuminating the most up-tothe minute horticultural
approaches.
18 September, 2011
Gardener News
Pick a Peck of Peppers
By Jeannie Geremia
Garden Club of New Jersey
The “dog days” of
summer have enveloped us
for a lengthier stay than usual,
but all in all, our gardens are
thriving and farmers markets
and farm stands are just laden
with local “Jersey Fresh” and
“Jersey Grown” products.
Now is the time for non-stop
harvesting of the fruits of
our labors and to showcase
them as well. Take a break
from your gardens, whether
home or in your community
garden, and come visit your
local 4H fairs, state fairs, and
flower shows.
The Garden Club of New
Jersey’s District IV Standard
Flower Show, “In the Spirit
of the Garden,” is not to be
missed as 16 garden clubs
from Hunterdon, Morris,
Warren
and
Somerset
counties have gone all out
in presenting a fabulous
show that will linger in
your memory and inspire
you to “get out there and
garden.” The show is being
held on September 16 from
1-4 p.m., and September 17h
from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.. at
two neighboring locations
in Chester Township ( GPS
address is 14 & 11 Longview
Rd., Far Hills 07931),
Willowwood Arboretum and
Bamboo Brook Education
Center, both jewels in the
crown of Morris County
Parks’ extensive public parks
system.
The Design Section of
the flower show will be
displayed in the exquisite
1780s stone barn at
Willowwood, surrounded by
charming gardens, one more
lovely than the next. You
will be transported back to a
more leisurely time, feeling
the spirits of Robert and
Henry Tubbs, brothers who
were avid plant collectors,
purchasing the 130-acre estate
in 1908 to showcase over
3,500 distinctive varieties
of trees, shrubs and plants.
The brothers spent decades
devoted to their passion,
finally leaving it to future
generations to appreciate and
enjoy. The Design classes
will be innovatively staged
and will include a club
competition vignette entitled
“Beside the Garden Gate”,
“A Restful Spot” with four
clubs vying for the Club
Competition Award. There
will be hanging designs, table
designs including “Tea Time
in the Roserie,” a class for
novice designers who have
never won a blue ribbon in
a flower show. A section on
miniatures entitled “How We
Danced the Night Away”,
underwater designs and
pedestal designs with another
section featuring dried plant
material only eligible for
Award of Distinction. Be sure
to put on your “judge’s hats”
and see how your selections
compare with the National
Garden Club judges’ picks.
Susan O’Donnell, District
IV Director, has a challenge
for all our visitors: “Did you
find Pan peeking through the
shrubs out the back veranda?”
She gave you a clue right
there. Have fun finding Pan.
Moving
next
door
to
BambooBrook
EducationCenter, we are in
awe at the loving restoration
by Morris County Parks
of the gardens and water
features throughout the
property of the former
owner Martha Brookes
Hutcheson, one of the first
trained women landscape
architects in America and
a founding member of the
Somerset Hills Garden Club
in 1914. Here you will find
the Horticulture lovingly
displayed in the Music Room,
Arboreta in front on lattice,
and Combination Plantings
on the rear veranda.
The District IV “Secret
Garden Tours” held in midJune raised the monies not
only to stage this show, but
more importantly, raised
monies needed to erect a
Blue Star Memorial Marker
to be dedicated at the Lyon’s
Veteran’s Hospital November
3, 2011 at 11 a.m. District
IV invites you to join them
for this memorable event
to help honor our veterans
of yesterday, today and
tomorrow. This information
will be displayed as you come
into the Bamboo Brook Music
Room. Be sure to check out
Section F – “Pick A Peck Of
Peppers” --as it is the special
District IV Challenge Award
and includes members of
clubs throughout the district
vying for this honor. All the
seeds were purchased from
the flower show committee,
so it’s going to be great fun
to see the results. Section
G – “Treasure And Pride”
-- is another class that’s not
to be missed, as it’s a Club
Competition of Displays with
four District Clubs vying for
the Club Competition Award
and each display containing
seven related specimens,
each in a separate container,
creatively displayed. Morris
County Parks are front and
center in the Invitational
Exhibit with their “Tales
from the Garden” staged in
front of the bow window and
on the piano.
Visiting the Summer
Playhouse with a stream
flowing under the house is
a treat in itself, but add to it
the chance to view the Youth
Section of the Special Exhibits
entitled “The Country
Place Era” and you know
life doesn’t get better than
this. The Youth Horticulture
Class 40 “In the Pumpkin
Patch,” are pumpkins grown
by seed provided by the
committee. Displayed, too,
are the Education Exhibits,
“Terraria—19th
Century
Vogue,” and “Jersey FreshJersey Grown,” the new
GCNJ project to assist
the development of new
community gardens. Youth
Artistic Crafts include an
Assemblage and homage to
birthdays, something that
nobody outgrows.
Can’t get away from
the shore? You are in luck
there, too, because you can
view “A Garden Walk,” a
Small Standard Flower Show
presented by the Navesink
Garden Club. It’s being held
on September 20, 2011 in
the Atrium, 40 Riverside
Avenue, Route 35, Red
Bank, N.J. from 1–3p.m.
Both Flower Shows are free
to the public.
Editor’s Note:
Jeannie
Geremia is an elected
Officer,
Horticultural
Chair and NGC Accredited
Judge for The Garden Club
of New Jersey, Inc. She
can be reached at 908782-6091 or by emailing
[email protected].
The Garden Club of New
Jersey’s website is www.
gardenclubofnewjersey.com.
Gardener News
We all work hard to
make our home and yard a
little slice of heaven, a place
to have fun and relax with
family, pets and friends.
We like a manicured lawn,
vegetable garden, a pool
and a place to have a picnic
to enjoy the great outdoors.
Sometimes this love for our
lawn and garden involves
eliminating pests, and I’m
not talking about the kids!
Frequently I am asked
about the use of lawn and
garden products and their
exposure to children and
pets. Pets and children
can be more vulnerable to
pesticides since they are
close to the ground and
tend to roll around in the
grass more than adults.
Everyone is concerned
with their safety and the
environment and there are
some guidelines that should
be followed when applying
and storing lawn and garden
products. Read and follow
all directions on the bags!
Lawn
and
garden
products are bought, applied
and stored the most during
the spring, summer and
fall seasons. These are the
warmer, growing months
If you live in New Jersey,
you have probably seen, or at
least heard about, Bagworms.
Over the past few years this
accidently introduced pest has
been causing problems to many
trees and shrubs. The bagworm,
Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis
(for those that appreciate scientific
names), is an unusual but serious
pest of many ornamental trees
and shrubs throughout the eastern
half of the United States. The
bagworm gets its name from the
bag-like structure created from
leaf fragments that are bound
together with silk produced by the
larva. Most of this insect’s life is
spent within the bag, which serves
as both a protective structure and
an area for the larvae to grow
into adult moths. The bags blend
in with the host tree’s foliage
leaving infestations to often
go unnoticed until significant
defoliation has occurred. Many
people mistake these protective
bags for cones or other “normal”
parts of a tree.
Bagworms feed on more
than 125 species of trees, shrubs
and other plants. However,
conifers, especially arborvitae,
eastern red cedar, ornamental
cedars, cypress and white pine
are among the preferred hosts
in of New Jersey. In many parts
September, 2011 19
Turf ‘s Up
By Todd Pretz
Professional Turf Consultant
Children, pets and lawn & garden products
when weeds, insects and
fungus are most active in the
lawn. We rely on pesticide
products for our pets like
flea collars and heartworm
medicines for their safety
every day without thinking
twice.
A pesticide is
defined as any substance
used to destroy insects or
other organisms that are
harmful to cultivated plants
or animals; this includes
weeds, insects and fungus.
It is our responsibilityto
read the label completely
to assure the proper dosage,
rate of application and
storage of any leftover
product. By law, all pet
and lawn and garden
pesticide products must be
registered by the federal
Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) before they
can be sold in the United
of the state, deciduous trees are
attacked as well, particularly
maple, sycamore and locust.
Favored species are identified
readily in the dormant season by
the presence of bags on the plant.
The presence of spindleshaped bag structures is the
most visible evidence of a
bagworm infestation. The bags
are approximately 1/8 inch long
when first noticeable and will
reach approximately two inches
long and 1/2 inch in diameter
when fully developed. The larvae
are about one inch long when
fully grown (the larvae form of
the bagworm is a caterpillar;
the adult form is a moth). The
body of the larvae is dark brown
with a yellow head region and is
hairless. The adult female moth is
worm-like and lacks wings, legs,
antennae, and eyes; she spends
most of her life inside the bag.
The body is yellowish white and
States. Pesticide products
go through an extensive
review, sometimes for up
to 10 years and millions of
dollars to conduct studies
and collect data evaluating
short-term and long-term
impacts on humans, pets
and the environment. A
pesticide is approved once
it is deemed not to pose any
unnecessary risks to people,
pets or local eco-systems
when used according to
label directions.
Some children and pets
will be more sensitive to
lawn and garden products,
including fertilizers, than
others. While we all need
to be conscious of the risks,
most of us have some sort
of products for use around
the home to control interior
pests. Everything in life
involves some risks and
Bagworms
nearly hairless. The male moth
resembles a wasp with a black
body and dense hairs. The wings
are clear and about one inch
across.
The bagworm overwinters
as yellowish eggs within the bag.
Some bags contain only male
larvae, and therefore eggs will
not be found in every bag on
the tree. The eggs hatch from
late-May through mid-June; the
larvae emerge and begin feeding
and constructing new bags. As
larvae continue to feed and
grow, they enlarge the bag to
accommodate their increased
body size.
In late-July through early
August, fully-grown larvae
secure their bags to a twig with
silk and pupate – grow into adult
moths - within the bag. Only the
male moths can fly. The male
moths then emerge from the bags
after about one month and fly
rewards that we need to
evaluate and decide which
path to follow.
To minimize the risk
of harm, remove children
and any pet toys, food and
water from the area you
plan to apply any pesticide.
The label on each product
will have some specific
instructions for re-entry
times for children and pets.
The general rule of thumb
is to wait until the dust has
settled. I like the idea of
watering-in any pesticide or
fertilizer after application,
let the grass dry and then
re-enter. If you want to be
extra careful, keep pets
off of the treated area for
24 hours and wipe down
their paws each time they
return back into the home.
Be aware if your pet eats
grass or digs up any outdoor
bait products. Granular
products may take more
than 24 hours to completely
dissolve and disappear from
the lawn. Some products
cannot be watered-in or
poor performance will
result, particularlyweed and
feed granules or sprays. Be
sure to secure all pesticides
properly out of the reach of
children and pets! I have
heard of a few incidents
where homeowners say
their dog ate some organic
fertilizers, which is because
many organic fertilizers
are made from dog food
ingredients. Remember,
children are curious to
explore a garage, shed
or basement and pets are
attracted to smells.
Please use common sense
when using lawn and garden
products for their sakes. For
more information about how
to keep pets safe and healthy,
go to www.pestfacts.org.
Editor’s Note: Todd Pretz is
Vice President of Jonathan
Green, a leading supplier of
lawn and garden products
in the northeast. For more
information, please visit:
www.jonathangreen.com
provide better control than a
contact spray, especially on large
larvae, so an application of a
soil injected, systemic pesticide
is your best option. If you are
reading this in the later summer
or fall, a soil injection should
be applied now or the very early
spring. Consult your Certified
Arborist or NJ Certified Tree
Expert and any state guidelines
to a bag containing a female, for specific insecticides, rates and
and mating occurs. Yellowish timing for controlling this pest.
eggs are deposited within the
As always, I hope you
bag by the female, and then learned something!
she wriggles out and dies. The
…..’Till next month
female never leaves the bag –
hence the lack of wings and other Editor’s Note: Robert graduated
structures needed for flight and from SUNY College of
prolonged movement, as these Environmental Science and
are unnecessary.
Forestry and Syracuse University
Removing and destroying the with degrees in science education
bags can control light bagworm and forest biology. He is an ISA
infestations on shrubs and small Certified Arborist and a New
trees. This should be done in Jersey Certified Tree Expert.
the dormant season before eggs Robert is currently teaching AP
hatch. On large trees or plants Environmental Science, Biology
with heavy infestations, properly and Chemistry at Liberty High
timed contact applications with School in PA., and on staff at
an approved product provide the Temple University teaching
best results. The applications Horticulture. He delivers many
are most effective when applied short courses and seminars
to the bags and foliage when at various outdoor education
bags are small. Large larvae are facilities. He is available for talks
more resistant to insecticides and consultations in both NJ
then the smaller, younger larvae. and PA. Robert can be reached
Systemic pesticides generally by calling (484) 560-5744.
20 September, 2011
Advancing the turfgrass industry
Gardener News
Tom Castronovo/Photo
Hundreds of landscape and turf professionals begin to tour the Rutgers
Adelphia Plant Science Research and Extension Farm in Freehold during
the Rutgers Lawn, Landscape & Sports Field Day and the Sports Field
Managers Trade Show & Equipment Demos event on July 27. Attendees
tried out the latest turf equipment, learned about major advances in
turfgrass breeding and the latest strategies for improved pest and
weed control on turf. The Monmouth County farm supports research
and extension programs advancing fine and athletic field turf directly
applicable to turf and agronomic crops and to plant and soil interaction.
In the world of agriculture,
most of the end uses for farm
products are pretty selfexplanatory.
Peaches are
grown so that they can be
eaten. The same can be said
for most fruits and vegetables.
Sure, many farm products
are not only harvested so that
they can be eaten fresh, but
they are also grown so that
they can be processed into
other products. There are
many, many examples of this.
Take tomatoes being grown
for ketchup or spaghetti sauce;
apples being pressed into
cider; or milk being processed
into any number of different
dairy foods or beverage
items. But these are all fairly
straightforward auxiliary uses
for these farm products and it
is easy to see how agriculture
was able to recognize the
demand for these items, and
then adapt to producing them.
Sometimes,
however,
the path which farm items
take is not so clear and
the reason for certain farm
products being grown can be
somewhat surprising. Take
the entire fall harvest season
for example. The typical
autumn harvest scene from
100 years ago here in New
Supporting agriculture
New Jersey Senator Bob Smith, who is chairman of the state Senate
Environment and Energy Committee, and who appreciates the state’s
great agricultural background, proudly displays some of the New Jersey
Department of Agriculture’s Jersey Fresh marketing posters in the
conference room of his legislative district office in Piscataway. Jersey
Fresh is an advertising and promotional program originally developed in
1983 to help farmers inform consumers about the availability and variety
of fresh, healthy and delicious fruits and vegetables grown in New Jersey.
The Town Farmer
By Peter Melick
Agricultural Producer
Alternative Farm Products
Jersey probably consisted of
bundles of corn stalks that
were cut and bound, bales of
hay and straw which were
used for feed and bedding,
apples which ripen and need
to be harvested during this
season, and pumpkins which
were used for both human and
animal consumption. Flash
forward 100 years, and when
people decorate their homes
and businesses for the fall
season, they use many of these
same products. They may
look the same, but in actuality,
quite a bit has changed over
the years.
Take field corn, for
example. Today most of the
field corn that is grown is
either chopped (stalk and all)
and put in a silo so that it can
be fed to livestock throughout
the winter, or picked with a
combine, which shells the
Tom Castronovo/Photo
kernels off of the cob, and
then is processed into a host
of different products. There
is actually no need any more
to cut and bind cornstalks
together, unless of course
someone wants to purchase
them to create their own
nostalgic fall harvest scene.
On our farm, we grow five
acres of field corn specifically
for this purpose. It is planted
much later than normal so
that it holds up well during
the fall season. Then it is
cut and bound, using antique
equipment (because no one
manufactures it any more),
and is tied to the roofs of
minivans and SUVs so that it
can be taken home and affixed
to mailboxes, fences and front
porches throughout New
Jersey. The pilgrims probably
never envisioned this when
they planted their first corn.
The
pumpkins
of
today and the pumpkins of
yesteryear are also quite
different.
Traditionally,
they were grown because
they were a relatively
heavy yielding reliable
crop that was suitable for
both human and animal
consumption. Because of
their hard shell, they keep
rather well into the winter,
which is another advantage.
Pumpkins were grown
amongst the corn and when
the corn was bound together
in bundles and stacked in
the field, the pumpkins were
placed underneath the corn
bundles so that they would
be protected from freezing
when the weather got colder.
They would then be fed to
livestock as needed. Today,
there are hundreds of varieties
from which to choose. And
while most all of the modern
strains are edible, they are
selected much more for their
appearance than anything
else.
One of the most amusing
stories of an alternative
use occurred on our farm a
couple of years ago. A man
came into our farm market on
Mother’s Day and stated that
he was looking for a plant for
his wife. When I asked him
what type of plant he had
in mind, he quickly replied
“Preferably something that’s
poisonous.” He was kidding
of course (I think), but it just
goes to show that there are
new uses for farm products
being developed every day.
Editor’s Note: Peter is
co-owner of Melick’s Town
Farm in Oldwick. He
currently serves as mayor
of Tewksbury Township, is a
10th-generation New Jersey
farmer, a director of the New
Jersey Farm Bureau, and
is a past president of the
New Jersey State Board of
Agriculture. He also has been
featured on NJN, News 12
New Jersey and on the Fox
Business Network. Peter can
be reached at (908) 310-1703.
Gardener News
September, 2011 21
Considerations in Assessing Your Gardening Ability Part 2
By Laura DePrado
Contributing Writer
Last month I introduced
three considerations in
assessing your gardening
limitations: time, mobility
and ability. I discussed time
and mobility and reserved
discussing ability for part
2. These considerations will
help you maximize both the
safety and enjoyment of
your gardening experience.
Lets talk about the third
consideration which is
ability. Determining your
ability will help you make
judgements about basic
garden components and
types of equipment. Ability
factors will help determine
what type of gardening
is practical.
Traditional
ground-level
gardening
may be working just fine
for you now, but your
ability to do this will not
last forever. Here are some
considerations for you to
keep in mind:
First can you get down to
the floor, or ground and get
back up without assistance?
The
garden
mum
(chrysanthemum) is one of
the most exciting flowers that
can be grown in the home
landscape for late-summer and
fall color. Garden mums require
a minimum amount of care and
do well even under some tough
conditions. There are cultivars
(varieties) with color that range
from white to yellow, pink,
purple, bronze, red, cream, to
dark maroon and burgundy, and
all the shades in between. With
hundreds of cultivars available,
the choice of plants to grow
is unlimited. To have a more
interesting collection of mums,
plant cultivars of various types
such as singles, anemones,
decoratives, pompons, spoons,
spiders, and standards.
Chrysanthemums,
or
“mums,” are popular perennials.
The term “garden mum” applies
to chrysanthemum cultivars that
will flower naturally. Garden
mums are also called hardy
mums, but the term “hardy”
is becoming abandoned by
most suppliers since hardiness
of garden mum cultivars may
vary significantly from one
season or area, depending
on weather and previous
cultural conditions. Garden
chrysanthemums are planted
If
all you need are
knee pads consider yourself
fortunate.
Chances are,
however, that if you tried
gardening from a comfortable
standing position using lightweight long-handled tools
you most likely find it easier.
Second, do you have any
back problems or limited
balance or coordination? Do
you rely on a cane to get around
and up and down but still
able to walk long distances?
Level surfaces become more
important.
If you cannot
walk long distances either
with or without assistive
devices, then you may want to
consider keeping frequently
visited garden areas that need
more attention closer to your
dwelling. Include a place to
sit and be comfortable if you
can.
Third, can you stand on
one foot or is it challenging?
How are you walking up
steps or inclines? If you
use crutches, cane or walker,
the ability to carry things
becomes more important.
Equipment to help you carry
tools, and plants becomes a
consideration.
How are you going to
carry a hose, or a watering
can? If you use an assistive
device for walking consider
that you will need to adapt.
Raised planters or containers
will make gardening more
accessible.
Fourth, ask yourself how
long you can stand on your
own comfortably.
If you
are more comfortable seated
there are many adaptive tools
and methods to bring your
garden to you. Here are some
considerations on how to
make this possible:
Seating
should
be
positioned at intervals
throughout and around
the garden. Use vertical
techniques. Use adaptive
tools that help you to reach
while standing for a short
period of time. I will be
writing about adaptive tools
next month. Consider having
a lightweight seat with you.
Reaching tools and aids will
do the reaching for you when
you can’t do it yourself. Have
you considered a raised bed so
that soil, plants and planting
are at an accessible height?
Making the soil just one foot
higher in a traditional planter
box will make gardening
easier for you the seated
gardener, if you can still bend
safely at the waist.
If you are in a wheelchair
whether it is temporary or
permanent, ground level
gardening is very difficult.
The paraplegic who has lost
use of legs can participate with
little or no special equipment.
Tools that extend reach will
work well. Level surfaces
without steps are essential.
If you have increased
weakness in your arms and/or
hands from arthritis, gloves
and padded tools are good.
Gripping aids, wrist supports
and smaller lightweight
tools are great adaptive
supplements to heavy, long
handle, traditional tools.
Fifth, visual impairment
affects every aspect of
gardening. Safe unobstructed
flat surfaces are essential
to prevent tripping hazards.
Tools with bright colored
handles are considerations.
Use plants and plant
combinations with bright,
dramatic colors, form and
textural contrast.
The Professional Grower
By Tim Hionis
Greenhouse Specialist
in the spring from established
cuttings, usually by growers
like us in the horticultural
field. This is contrary to years
ago when they were offered
primarily in the fall as clumps.
Most of the plants are sold in
pots and must be removed from
the pots before planting. The
plants generally have had at
least one pinch, which results
in a well-branched plant. They
offer a wide variety of growth
habits, from small dwarf headed
plants to giant shrub-like ones.
Mums are easy to grow and
can provide years of enjoyment
if care is taken to select an
appropriate variety. Plant in a
sunny, well drained, location;
and provide winter protection.
Garden chrysanthemums
grow best in a variety of
soils but must have excellent
drainage conditions. Plant the
chrysanthemums the same
Mums the Word
depth that they were growing in
their containers and no deeper.
The plants should be thoroughly
watered after planting. Plants in
semi-shady locations will be
taller, have weaker stems, and
bloom later in the fall.
Incorporate two to four
inches of peat moss, compost,
or manure into the soil. If you
use only peat moss or do not
add organic matter, apply three
to four pounds per100 square
feet of a complete fertilizer such
as 5-10-10 or 5-10-5. Apply on
plants with a complete fertilizer
in early August, especially in
years of abundant rainfall or
irrigation. Space plants 18 to 24
inches apart, depending on the
mature size of the cultivar.
When your mums come
back the following year, to
maintain a bushy compact
plant form, pinch or prune
regularly. Although newer
cultivars do not require
pinching, the traditional
method has been to pinch out
the tip to induce branching
and produce stockier plants.
Repeat pinching on side
branches when they have
grown six inches. Continue
pinching until mid-June for
early flowering varieties, lateJune for September flowering
varieties, and early-July for
October varieties. Complete
pinching by July 4 to assure
flowering prior to frost. Very
high summer temperatures
may also delay flowering.
Water plants regularly if
the summer is dry or if soil is
light and sandy. Wet soil to a
depth of six to eight inches.
Apply two to three inches of
mulch such as grass clippings,
compost, or shredded leaves
to conserve soil moisture and
reduce weeds.
We all have similarities
and differences in our
abilities and limitations in the
garden and in our gardening
positions. There are many
ways to compensate for
limitations but understanding
the three basic considerations
as discussed will make it
possible for
Adapting and modifying
design space, tasks, and tools
and equipment.
Editors
Note:
Laura
DePrado, is the recipient
of the Somerset County
Board
of Agriculture
Tom Everett Memorial
Continuing
Education
Scholarship; horticultural
specialist, president, Final
Touch Plantscaping, LLC,
NJ Certified WBE/SBE;
Certificate in HT, Rutgers
University, SEBS; B.S.
Journalism;
Certified
Rutgers NJAES Master
Gardener of Somerset
County; Member AHTA,
MAHTN and NJNLA; 2011
United Way Volunteer of
the Year Finalist.
Laura
can be reached at laura@
finaltouchplantscaping.com
Lack of flowering is
occasionally a problem with
mums. Possible causes include
insufficient sun, fertilizer, or
water; late pinching; root
competition from nearby trees
and shrubs; unusually hot
weather (especially nights)
in August, unusually cold
weather in late August and
September; and insect or
disease injury.
In
most
instances,
homeowners should consider
the garden chrysanthemum
an annual flower. Therefore,
when frost kills the tops of the
plants, cut off the dead stems
and remove from the garden.
Sometimes mums will come
up the next spring if just the
tops of the plants are cut off. If
you prefer to keep them over
the winter, cut off the dead
tops, and cover the plants with
mulch to a depth of three to
four inches.
Editor’s Note: Tim Hionis
has been growing plants
for over 20 years, and
is co-owner of Hionis
Greenhouses and Garden
Center in Whitehouse
Station, NJ. He can
be reached by calling
(908) 534-7710.
22 September, 2011
Gardener News
New Jersey’s Public Gardens Show Off Their LIQUID ASSETS
Water is on every gardener’s mind, especially during the summer. This summer’s
record temperatures have drawn special attention to this critical natural resource.
Throughout September, 2011, New Jersey’s public gardens present LIQUID ASSETS, a
wide range of exhibits and programs focusing on water.
For example, you can make a rain barrel for your garden, learn about unusual cactus,
tour a geothermal well system, take a streamside walk, visit a bog, understand how a
detention basin works, incorporate water plants into your garden, get irrigation tips, visit
a restored water garden, see a water-themed sculpture exhibit, hear a talk on water and
wildlife or experience a living roof at one of New Jersey’s public gardens.
Gardens participating in LIQUID ASSETS include
Bamboo Brook Outdoor Education Center
Barton Arboretum & Nature Preserve
Leonard J. Buck Garden
Sister Mary Grace Burns Arboretum
Duke Farms
The Frelinghuysen Arboretum
Morven Museums & Garden
NJ Botanic Garden / Skylands
Reeves-Reed Arboretum
Rutgers Gardens
www.morrisparks.net
www.medfordleas.org
www/somersetcountyparks.org
www.georgian.edu/arboretum/index.htm
www.dukefarms.org
www.arboretumfriends.org
www.morven.org
www.njbg.org
www.reeves-reedarboretum.org
www.rutgersgardens.rutgers.edu
For complete LIQUID ASSETS programs details, visit www.gardenstategardens.org
These programs are a joint initiative of Garden State Gardens, a non profit consortium
of New Jersey public gardens, whose mission is to increase the public’s awareness of and
appreciation for the beauty and horticultural, educational, artistic and historic value of
New Jersey’s public gardens.
Gardener News
The Premier Gardening Monthly Newspaper
Volume 9 Number 101 Published Monthly
Read This Paper Online
www.GardenerNews.com
RutgeRs CoopeRative
extension
phone DiReCtoRy
Atlantic County
Phone: 609-625-0056
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Phone: 609-465-5115
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Phone: 856-451-2800
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Phone: 973-353-5959
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Phone: 856-307-6450
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Phone: 201-915-1399
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Phone: 908-788-1339
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Phone: 609-989-6830
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Staff
Executive Editor/ Publisher . . . .
Art Director . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Advertising . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tom Castronovo
Todd Pretz
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Jody Shilan
Craig Korb
Tim Hionis
Bob LaHoff
Paul Kneeland
Robert Andreucci
Contributing Writers
Bruce Crawford
Laura DePrado
Piscataway, NJ - 7 Room Split
Gas Hot Air Heat, Hardwood Floors,
Garage, Basement, 1 ½ Baths, No Pets,
$1,750 Per Month Plus Utilities,
1 ½ Months Security Due Before Moving In.
Tom Castronovo
Justin Kukuc
Tom Castronovo
September Columnists
Jeannie Geremia
Union Co. Master Gardeners
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TIP OF THE MONTH
Apples are one of the easiest fruits to pick and use. Apples ripen from the outside of the tree toward
the center, so the apples on the outside of the tree will ripen first. Picking apples directly from a tree
is easy. Roll the apple upwards off the branch and give a little twist; don’t pull straight away from the
tree. Don’t shake the branches or the tree. If the apple you are trying to pick drops, (or others on the
tree) go ahead and pick it up. They’re perfectly fine! Apples stay fresh longer when kept in a cool place,
like the refrigerator. To help them last even longer, don’t wash the apple until you’re ready to eat it.
Gardener News
September, 2011 23
24 September, 2011
Gardener News