Designers for Fashion Icons - Art Gallery of South Australia

E XC L U S I V E T O A D E L A I D E
25 October 2014 – 15 February 2015
Fashions are ephemeral but
Fashion is enduring.
The Art Gallery of South Australia will host the most
significant fashion exhibition ever seen in Adelaide.
Fashion Icons: Masterpieces from the Musée des Arts
Décoratifs, Paris will showcase more than 90 iconic
garments spanning eight decades by 55 of the world’s
leading fashion designers including Dior, Laurent, Chanel,
Cardin, Dolce & Gabbana, Givency, Laroche, Balmain,
Galliano, Westwood, Rabanne and Yamamoto.
Cecil Beaton
Fashion Icons is one of the most ambitious exhibitions
ever held at the Art Gallery of South Australia. It is a
privilege to be working with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs,
esteemed curator Pamela Golbin and international designer
Christian Biecher to bring the very best of French fashion
to Adelaide. We anticipate that an exhibition of this calibre
and content will have broad cross-generational appeal and
provide inspiration to the Australian fashion industry.
Exclusive to Adelaide, Fashion Icons will be drawn from
the most comprehensive collection of French fashion in
the world, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and is curated by
the museum’s Chief Curator of 20th and 21st Centuries
Fashion and Textile, Pamela Golbin.
Fashion Icons will paint a unique picture of Parisian style
within the context of contemporary fashion design since
1947 when the couturier Christian Dior re-launched Haute
Couture with his New Look. He did so in a Paris struggling
with the aftermath of the Second World War. With style
and panache, he reignited the fashion industry; flaunting
clothing restrictions, his haute couture announced the
return of beauty and glamour.
Nick Mitzevich,
Director, Art Gallery of South Australia
I am delighted to work with Art Exhibitions Australia to
bring this exhibition to the Art Gallery of South Australia.
Fashion Icons is a unique presentation which will bring
together and unveil for the first time some of the most
iconic masterpieces of the history of fashion kept in our
collections. Starting with the world renowned New Look
of Christian Dior, the exhibition will reveal the extraordinary
rebirth of fashion after World War II until the present
time. We are proud and honoured to have the opportunity
to share the best of our collections with the Australian
audience.
From that time fashion design blossomed with the
lavish splendour and glamour of the 1950s, the futurist
dynamism, feminism and sexual liberation of the 1960s
and the inspired emancipation of the 1970s – the time
which Paco Rabanne created his notorious space-age
shift dresses from metal disks worn famously by the
singer Brigitte Bardot and the time when Saint Laurent
introduced the trouser suit for women. Then there was the
unbridled excess of the 1980s which was a time associated
with power dressing and the age of spectacular fashion
shows and the supermodel and then there was the pure
minimalism of the 1990s, all inspiring today’s composite
portrait of the 21st century.
Olivier Gabet,
Director, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris
The works selected for this exhibition perfectly illustrate
the style of each of the mythical couturiers behind this
history of luxury and sumptuousness. Spectacular designs
by Cristobal Balenciaga, Gabrielle Chanel and Yves Saint
Laurent follow one another in this chronological review,
revealing the universality of fashion viewed as a history of
art and beauty.
Ever responsive to a changing world, fashion in the
21st century has seen the rise of men’s couture and
the cult of celebrity fashion. Included in the exhibition is
Dolce & Gabbana’s chrome bustier dress made famous
by Lady Gaga.
This exhibition has been made to measure especially
for Adelaide. The works have not been previously seen
in Australia.
Pamela Golbin,
Chief Curator, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris
Fashion Icons is supported by a fully illustrated catalogue.
The South Australian Government is proud to support
Fashion Icons: Masterpieces from the Collection of the
Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris at the Art Gallery of
South Australia. This magnificent exhibition
represents a rare opportunity for Australian
audiences to experience French fashion from
1947 to the present day.
Jay Weatherill,
Premier of South Australia
Designers
for Fashion
Icons
The 50s
The couture of the late 1940s and
1950s was defined by supreme
elegance, with voluminous ball gowns
by Dior and Balenciaga. The feminine
form returned and emphasised tiny
waistlines, full hips and bust, and
lavish full skirts. Paris reasserted
itself as the fashion capital of the
world.
Featured Designers
Christian Dior
Lucile Manguin
Jacques Fath
Rochas
Grès
Guy Laroche
Balenciaga
Charles James
Jean Dessès
Pierre Balmain
The 60s
The swinging sixties were about
sub-cultures, ethnic fashions and
women’s liberation. Art, music and
fashion connected in the presentation
couture shows, with Paco Rabanne a
leading figure. Mini-skirts, flat shoes
and bold graphics in primary colours
dominated.
FI 60 G23c wall 9230x4565final.pdf
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23/09/2014
12:58 pm
Featured Designers
clockwise from top left: Christian Dior, Bar suit,
Haute couture, Spring/Summer 1947, shantung
jacket; skirt pleated in wool crepe by Gérondeau
et Cie, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC collection,
Fashion and Textiles, gift of Christian Dior, 1958.
Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance
Grès
Paco Rabanne
Chanel
Pierre Cardin
Balenciaga
Christiane Bailly
Courrèges
Emanuel Ungaro
Bernard et François Baschet
Pierre Balmain
Givenchy
Michèle Rosier
Emilio Pucci
Grès, Day dress, Haute couture, Autumn/Winter
1948, silk gros de Tours by Bianchini Ferier,
Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC collection, Fashion
and Textiles, gift of Madame Quernel, 1967.
Photograph by Nepo, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs,
Photo Library
Paco Rabanne, Evening mini-dress, Haute Couture,
Spring/Summer 1968, hammered or smooth
aluminium plates, aluminium links, Les Arts
Décoratifs, UFAC collection, Fashion and Textiles.
Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance
The 70s
Popular culture was obsessed with
denim jeans, glam rock fashion
and hippy clothes. Pierre Balmain
responded with high-end street wear.
Sonia Rykiel found success with
ready-to-wear knitwear that suited the
needs of younger women wanting a
less formal, more semi-sportswear
look.
Featured Designers
Jacques Estérel
Pierre Cardin
Courrèges
Yves Saint Laurent
Claude Montana
Guy Laroche
Jean Muir
Bruce et Chantal Thomass
Emanuel Ungaro
Kenzo JAP
Karl Lagerfeld pour Chloé
Pierre Balmain
Sonia Rykiel
Issey Miyake
FI G23a 80 wall pattern 7800x4565final.pdf
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23/09/2014
The 80s
Strong women and the associated
power dressing of the 1980s are
resplendently conveyed through the
couture of Thierry Mugler, Claude
Montana and Azzedine Alaïa. This was
the age of spectacular fashion shows
and the supermodel, with Jerry Hall a
favourite of Mugler and Grace Jones
of Alaïa. Big hair, big jewellery and
big shoulder pads were all part of the
ostentatious style.
Featured Designers
1:00 pm
top left: Paco Rabanne, Long evening cape, Haute
couture, Spring/Summer 1969, transparent
sheets of resin containing dried flowers, ostrich
feathers, metal mesh, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC
collection, Fashion and Textiles, gift of Paco
Rabanne, 1994, Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs,
UFAC collection.Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/
Jean Tholance
middle left: Pierre Balmain, Ensemble: jumpsuit,
matching helmet, Haute couture, Autumn/Winter
1977, ostrich skin, Les Arts Décoratifs, UFAC
collection, Fashion and Textiles, gift of Pierre
Balmain, 1979. Photograph by François Gonin,
Paris, Les Arts Décoratifs, Photo Library
bottom left: (left) Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
for Ko and Co, La Joconde, long dress, Readyto-wear, Autumn/Winter 1983-1984, Les Arts
Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, on
loan from the Centre National des Arts Plastiques
– Ministère de la Culture et de la Communication,
1986. (right) Patrick Kelly, Evening dress, Readyto-wear, Autumn/Winter 1989-1990, Les Arts
Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, gift
of Elaine and Harold Blatt, 2005. Art direction/
photography: Thierry Dreyfus for Eyesight Group
Yves Saint Laurent
Claude Montana
Thierry Mugler
Jean Paul Gaultier
Christian Lacroix
Patrick Kelly
Popy Moreni
Anne Marie Beretta
Yohji Yamamoto
Jacqueline Jacobson
Claude Montana
Azzedine Alaïa
Jean-Charles
Emanuel Ungaro
Comme des Garçons
Karl Lagerfeld pour Chanel
top right: Yves Saint Laurent, Picasso, short
evening dress and hat, Haute couture, Autumn/
Winter 1979, moire silk faille by Taroni, appliquéd
silk satin by Brossin de Méré; belt of silk satin
by Moreau; wool felt hat, Les Arts Décoratifs,
Fashion and Textiles collection, purchase, 1993.
Photograph: Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance
The 2000s
Ever-responsive to a changing
world, fashion in the twenty-first
century represents a composite
style and shifts even more rapidly
than the traditional haute couture
fashion cycle. Men’s couture grows
in momentum, as does the cult of
celebrity fashion. Dolce & Gabbana’s
chrome bustier and Comme des
Garçons’s Illusion dress were
made all the more famous by Lady
Gaga. Recent trends have ranged
from 1920s-inspired drop-waisted,
embellished dresses to 1950s-style
full-skirted dresses.
pm
The 90s
Featured Designers
In the early 1990s unrestrained
excess was replaced by pure
minimalism. The fitted dress resurged
and all-white collections reflected
an era of new conservatism and
nostalgia. Young British designers
took on the Parisian fashion houses
and reinvigorated the fashion world,
with Alexander McQueen at Givenchy
from 1996 and John Galliano with
Dior from 1997.
Alexander McQueen pour
Givenchy
Olivier Theyskens pour rochas
Christian Lacroix
Helmut Lang
Alber Elbaz pour Lanvin
Hussein Chalayan
Nicolas ghesquiÈre pour
Balenciaga
John Galliano
Raf Simons
Dolce & Gabbana
Valentino
Comme des Garçons
Yohji Yamamoto
Hedi Slimane pour Yves Saint
Laurent
Featured Designers
Patrick Kelly
Montana pour Lanvin
John Galliano pour Christian Dior
Karl Lagerfeld pour Chanel
Martin Margiela
Comme des Garçons
Helmut Lang
Véronique Branquinho
John Galliano
Dries van Noten
Ann Demeulemeester
Walter Van Beirendonck
Karl Lagerfeld pour Chanel
Vivienne Westwood
top left: Jean Paul Gaultier, Costume for Régine
Chopinot’s choreography Le Défilé 1985, silk satin and
piped cotton satin corset adorned with lace ribbon,
quilted silk satin and garters; synthetic bubbled tulle
leggings; Head dress by Stephen Jones, Les Arts
Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, gift of the
Ballet Atlantique – Régine Chopinot, 2006. Photograph:
Thierry Dreyfus for Eyesight Group
top right: Christian Lacroix, Sheath evening gown
with train, Haute couture, Spring/Summer 2000,
silk tulle sleeves, neckline and modesty piece;
boned bodice and sheath in a patchwork of printed
silk crepe strips, trimmed with silk satin, Les Arts
Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection, gift of
Christian Lacroix (Paris) and Simon, Jérôme, Léon
Falic (Bal-Harbour, Florida), 2009. Photograph:
Les Arts Décoratifs/Jean Tholance
bottom right: (left) Comme des Garçons, Dress,
Ready-to-wear, Autumn/Winter 2012–2013, Les
Arts Décoratifs, Fashion and Textiles collection,
purchased with the aid of Louis Vuitton, 2012.
(right) Valentino, Evening suit, Haute couture,
Autumn/Winter 2007–2008, Les Arts Décoratifs,
Fashion and Textiles collection, gift of Valentino,
2008. Art direction/photography: Thierry Dreyfus
for Eyesight Group
About the Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Fashion Icon details
Founded in Paris over 150 years ago by collectors,
industrialists and artistans concerned with the quality and
design of everyday objects, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs
is housed in the Marsan Wing of the Palais du Louvre on
the Rue de Rivoli. It is one of the largest collections of
decorative art in the world and provides a unique panorama
of the history of furniture, glass, ceramics, precious
metalwork, jewellery, textiles, fashion, graphic design
and advertising. Known as one of the most important
fashion and textile departments in the museum world,
the collection of Les Arts Décoratifs reveals the history of
fashion from the 17th century to today.
Exclusive to Adelaide
Events Program
The Art Gallery of South Australia will be holding a series of
special events over the duration of the exhibition including
lectures, talks, films, tours and workshops. Details are
available at www.artgallery.sa.gov.au
Fashion Icons has been organised by Musée des Arts
Décoratifs, Paris in association with Art Exhibitions
Australia and the Art Gallery of South Australia.
For further information visit fashionicons.com.au
MEDIA CONTACT
25 October 2014 –15 February 2015
Art Gallery of South Australia,
North Terrace, Adelaide
Daily 10am–5pm
Tickets now on sale
Adult$25
Concession$20
Gallery Member
$16
Family (2 adults and up to 3 children aged 5–12)
$55
Student (12 years and over)
$10
Child (5–11 years)
$5
Child (0–4 years)
Free
Become an Art Gallery Member and receive a FREE ticket
to the exhibition
Art Gallery Food + Wine Packages
Available to purchase from the restaurant
Breakfast and Ticket Package
Lunch and Ticket Package
$47
$60
Susanne Briggs, Communications Manager,
Art Gallery of South Australia
E [email protected]
T 08 8207 7156 M 0412 268 320
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PRINCIPAL DONOR
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Fashion Icons has been organised by Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris in association with Art Exhibitions Australia and the Art Gallery of South Australia.
image: Alber Elbaz for Lanvin, dress, Spring/Summer 2008, Photograph by Roger Deckker, © Roger Deckker