cookery for the hospitality industry

Transcription

COOKERY FOR THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY
SIXTH EDITION
To be published July 2011
A must-have book for thirty years, and now in its sixth edition, Cookery
for the Hospitality Industry remains Australia’s most trusted and
reliable reference for commercial cookery students, apprentice chefs and
those studying vocational courses in schools. It covers the essential skills,
methods and principles of cookery as well as the core competencies
listed within the Australian National Training Package for
Commercial Cookery. This book provides trade apprentices and
commercial cookery students with everything they need to know to
achieve trade status and more.
Chapter extracts* provided as sample pages:
Ch. 18
Ch. 21
Poultry
Vegetables and fruit
*These extracts do not contain the full chapters.
Please note: These are sample pages only and do not represent the final finished work.
Sample pages are provided “as is” and Cambridge University Press makes no guarantee that they
represent the work as it will be published.
Contents
Chapter 18
Chapter 21
Contact your local sales representative
• David Ludowyk – VIC • SA • TAS • WA • New Zealand
Email: [email protected]
Ph: 0418 517 879
• John Elliot – NSW • ACT • QLD • NT
Email: [email protected]
Ph: 0458 913 645
Customer Service: 03 8671 1400
[email protected]
CONTENTS
xx
Acknowledgements
xx
How to use this book
xx
How to use the companion website
xx
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Preface
Introduction
Timingandteamwork
Seasoningandconsistency
Measuringingredients
Portionsizesandpresentation
Preparationtime
Understandingrecipes
Gastronomy
Foodcombinations
Presentationofdishesandtheirservice
Theselectionandcareofknives
Australiancuttingboardcoloursystem
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PART 1
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02 Kitchen organisation
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Thefoodservice
Kitchenwork
Cleaningfoodstorage,preparationandkitchenareas
Wastedisposal
03 Catering hygiene and HACCP principles
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Foodhandlersandfoodhygiene
Microbialfoodcontamination
Physicalandchemicalfoodcontamination
TheAustralianFoodStandardsCode:Anoverview
Foodsafetysupervisor
Temperaturecontrolofpotentiallyhazardousfood
Sample Pages • Cambridge University Press • ©2011 Dodgshun, Peters and O'Dea • 978-0-521-15632-5
v
contents
Cleaningandsanitisingequipmentandutensils
Calibrationofthermometers
Single-useitems
Personalhygiene
FoodStandardsCode:Labellingandinformationrequirements
HACCPinafood-serviceenvironment
Readinglist
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04 Occupational health and safety
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Principlesofhealthandsafety
Occupationalhealthandsafetylegislation
Responsibilitiestoensurehealthandsafety
Occupationalhealthandsafetypoliciesandprocedures
Safetyinthehospitalityindustry
AustraliaandNewZealandFoodStandardsCode
Introduction
Thehistoryofthemenu
Factorstoconsiderwhenplanningamenu
Menutypesandfeatures
Writingthemenu
06 Nutrition
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05 Menu planning
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Introduction
Theeffectsofcookingandfoodstorageonnutrition
TheDietaryGuidelinesforAustralianAdults
Readinglist
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Cost control in the commercial kitchen
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Elementsofcost
Controllablecosts
Productionplanning
Costcontrolreview–howdoesitworkout?
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08 Food service operations
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Introduction
Preparingforfoodservice
Planningandorganisingforservice
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Gettingorganisedforservice
Cookingandpresentingfoodforservice
Presentingandplatingfood
Endoffoodservice
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10 Methods of cookery
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Introduction
Typesofheattransfer
Boiling
Poaching
Steaming
Braising
Stewing
Etuvée
Poêle–potroasting
Enpapillote
Baking
Roasting
Grilling
Shallowfrying,stirfrying,sautéanddeepfrying
Microwaving
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Vegetablecuts
Potatocuts
Onioncuts
Stock
Coatingmixtures
Lardingandbarding
Marinades
Herbsandvegetables
Panada
Roux
Stuffing
Croute
Butters
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09 Food preparation and mise en place
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PART 2
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12 Salads and sandwiches
Salads
Mayonnaiseanddressings
Canapés
Sandwiches
13 Soups
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Appetisers
Caviar
Smokedsalmon
Smokedtrout
Shellfishandseafoodcocktails
Fruitcocktails
Beef
Vegetables
Samosas
Sushi
Sashimi
Horsd’oeuvrevariés
Hothorsd’oeuvre
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11 Appetisers and finger food
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Classificationofsoups
Consommé
Bouillon
Broth
Purée
Cream
Velouté
Bisque
Chowder
Regional
Brown
Coldsoups
Conveniencesoups
Garnishes
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contents
14 Sauces
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Roux
Preparationofsaucesforglazing
Meatandseafoodsauces
Eggsaucesandbuttersauces
Othersavourysauces
Coulis
Curries
15 Eggs
16 Rice, pasta, gnocchi and noodles
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Rice
Pasta
Gnocchi
Noodles
Otherfarinaceousproducts
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Nutritionalbenefitsofeggs
Thestructureofanegg
Purchasingspecifications
Qualitypointsofeggs
Storageofeggs
Culinaryfunctionsofeggs
Eggcookery
Eggdishes
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17 Seafood
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Introduction
Australianstandards
Nutritionalbenefitsofseafood
SeasonalityofAustralianseafood
Storageanddisplayoflivefishandshellfish
Humanekillingoffishandshellfish
Yieldandwastage
Fish
Squidandcalamari
Shellfish
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19 Meat
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Meatquality
Aus-Meat
MeatStandardsAustralia
Specialcategoriesofbutcher’smeat
Degreeofdoneness
Beef
Lamb,hoggetandmutton
Pork
Veal
Capretto
Fancymeats
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PA
Introduction
Classificationofpoultry
Selectionofpoultry
Purchasingpoultry
Handlingandstorageofpoultry
Preparationofpoultry
Cookingpoultry
Presentationofpoultry
Chicken
Duck
Turkey
Guineafowl
Pheasant
Quail
Squab
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18 Poultry
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20 Game, pâté and terrines
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Introduction
GameavailableinAustralia
21 Vegetables and fruit
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Seasonalsupplyofvegetablesandfruits
Lossinpreparationofvegetablesandfruits
contents
Vegetables
Fruit
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22
Buffet
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Planningabuffet
Buffetlayout
Foodsafetyinbuffetpresentation
Stylesofbuffets
Commoncharacteristicsofbuffets
Buffetcenterpieces
Garnishesanddecorationforplatters
Buffetplatters
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E
Thebasicingredients
Thebakingprocess
Bakingpreparations
Pasteandpastry
Cakes
Biscuits
Yeastgoodsandscones
Sugarcookery
Chocolate
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23 Pastries, cakes and yeast goods
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24 Hot and cold desserts
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Dessertpresentation
Sweetsaucesandcreams
Frittersandpancakes
Bakedcustardsandcreams
Gelatinedesserts
Sweetricedishes
Coldsweetsoufflés
Hotsweetsoufflés
Savourysoufflés
Icecreamandsorbets
Fruitdesserts
Otherdesserts
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contents
25 Cheese
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Cheese-makingregionsinAustralia
Thecheese-makingprocess
Cheeseterminology
Cheesecategories
Cheeseandwineguide
Storingcheese
Cuttingcheese
Servingandpresentingcheese
Cookingwithcheese
26 Food preservation
Fruits
Leavesandstems
Seeds
Oils
Bark
Readinglist
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27 Australian bush foods
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Themethodsoffoodpreservation
Chemicalaidstopreservation
Preserves
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Appendix
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Glossary
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Recipe list
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Index
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CONTENTS
The great pleasure in life is doing what people say you cannot do.
Walter Bagehot
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Contents
Introduction
Classification of poultry
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Poultry
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CHAPTER
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Purchasing poultry
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Handling and storage of poultry
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Preparation of poultry
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Cooking poultry
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Presentation of poultry
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Chicken
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Duck xx
Turkey
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Guinea fowl
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Pheasant
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Quail xx
Squab
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Selection of poultry
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446 cookery for the hospitality industry
The selected breeding of these domesticated
table birds has established a quality of meat
that is not found in their wild relatives.
However, the domesticated guinea fowl,
pheasant and pigeon retain similarities in
breeding to wild birds of the same species, and
for this reason they are sometimes classed as
both poultry and feathered game.
Good-quality, meaty birds suited to cooking
with most of the cookery methods have been
developed through the breeding of poultry. The
tender flesh and the moist fat content of young
poultry permit them to be cooked by boiling,
braising, poêler, roasting, shallow frying, deepfrying, steaming and grilling. Take care to select
a cookery process that suits the particular type
and age of the poultry. Pheasants are very lean,
and thus a cookery method that is moist and
supplies fat with basting should be selected.
Geese and duck, on the other hand, have a high
fat content and this must be considered when
selecting a cookery process. The quality of the
meat will vary according to the poultry type.
Duck, geese, pheasant, turkey legs and pigeon
have dark-coloured meat, which may not
familiar to the general palate of customers.
Poultry offal, or giblets, are used as
ingredients in many recipes. The liver, heart,
kidneys, neck, feet, stomach, lights and
cockscomb provide interesting and usually
cheaper commodities when included on
menus. The liver, in particular, has a texture
that is rich and full flavoured when cooked as
pâté or when sautéed. The choicest of all liver,
fattened goose liver, has long been considered a
delicacy when prepared and cooked as pâté de
foie gras.
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as set down by law.
Due to the strict hygiene regulations that
abound in today’s cookery world, it is quite
important to form a good rapport with your
supplier, to help you obtain and produce
consistent and high-quality products for your
customers.
This chapter aims to assist you in
developing the knowledge and skills to prepare,
cook and serve poultry and game dishes. These
food items are an important part of the menus
and may feature in a number of courses;
therefore, many aspects, including terminology,
purchase points, handling and storage, quality
points, cooking methods and service are
important for any chef.
Why are some birds classed as both
poultry and game?
ES
Through out the culinary world, there is
a large and varied supply of high-quality
poultry. Poultry holds a valued place in the
culinary arts and, in most instances, can be
readily purchased. Due to the regulation in the
farming of these animals, you can be assured
of the highest quality, providing you deal with
licensed suppliers who follow all hygiene,
occupational, health and safety responsibilities
nutritional properties, poultry is a highly
recommended product and plays an important
part in today’s cookery world.
G
Introduction
Classification of poultry
The term ‘poultry’ refers to all domesticated,
feathered birds that have been commercially
reared for human consumption. The
classification includes chickens, ducks, turkeys
and geese. Guinea fowl, pheasant, pigeon and
quail are considered feathered game, but in
Australia are domesticated birds grown for the
restaurant trade.
Due to its comparatively low price and
its availability, poultry ranks quite high as
a primary product being offered on today’s
menus, in comparison with beef, lamb and
seafood. With an almost never-ending list
of cooking and service methods and high
chapter 18: poultry 447
Selection of fresh poultry has been made easier
with the advent of the packaging systems used
in the selling of the items. All poultry game are
sold according to weight, and this is recorded
as a numerical system with incremental steps
of 100 grams. For example, a Size 16 chicken
will weigh at least 1.6 kilograms (16 x 0.100
kg) and a Size 45 turkey will weigh at least
4.5 kilograms (45 x 0.100 kg). Commonly, the
heavier the bird, the older it is. As the bird ages
the flavour of the flesh matures and becomes
more pronounced. This also means that the
bird is prone to toughening, as the muscle
formation increases through age and general
exercise of the birds.
Table 18.1: Types of poultry utilised in a typical catering enterprise
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Selection of poultry
Culinary information
Size
Description and age
Chicken
Spatchcock
2–7
Young bird, 5–8 weeks
Capon
16+
Fattened, castrated male bird, 12–16 weeks
Broiler
14–18
Roasting chicken
7–22
Boiling fowl
16–32
Duckling
10–14
Duck
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Duck
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Poultry type
Fattened hen bird, 12–16 weeks
Mature hen bird, 8–52 weeks
Older, mature hen bird, 52+ weeks
15–24
Mature bird, 10–26 weeks
24+
Older, mature bird 26+ weeks
Wild
12–24
Mature bird, from 6 weeks (hunted in
season)
Young turkey
14–30
Young bird, up to 16 weeks
Turkey
30–50
Mature bird, 16–30 weeks
Large turkey
51+
Older bird, 28+ weeks
Gosling
18–30
Goose
32–50
Mature bird, from 24 weeks
Large goose
52+
Older, market-type of bird
Guinea fowl
Farmed and wild
5–8
Mature birds, from 10 weeks
Pheasant
Farmed and wild
12+
Pigeon
Squab
2–4
Young bird, from 2 weeks
Pigeon
4–10
Mature market bird, from 4 weeks
Farmed
1–3
Turkey
Goose
Quail
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Large duck
NOTE:
While this is a
varied list of
poultry available
in Australia, it is
best to contact
suppliers to
confirm availability,
especially for the
less-common
varieties.
Purchasing poultry
Turkey
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commonly utilised)
Guinea fowl
Whole
Breast – boned/bone in
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your supplier. Needless to say, a good rapport
with your suppliers is essential, as they will be
able to expand your knowledge and help you
when it comes to deciding on what is available
and in what form it can be purchased.
Whole
Buffet – turkey portion with out legs
Breast – boned/bone in, wing on, smoked,
steak
Maryland – boned/bone in, thigh and leg
portions, steak,
Wing – drummette, wingette
Giblets – neck is the most common
Processed – diced, minced (the leg is
G
In keeping with the nature of contemporary
cookery and service, a wide variety of poultry
cuts, portions and processed products are
available to be utilised in your kitchen.
Increasingly, ‘value-added’ products are
making their way to our suppliers’ lists. As
chef you must have a basic understanding of
these common cuts and be aware of newer and
improved products that may be available from
Common poultry cuts/portions
readily available for purchase
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Chicken
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(Products may be purchased either fresh or
frozen)
NOTE:
Giblets is the term
used to describe
poultry offal
Whole – boned, smoked
Breast fillet – skin on/off, Kiev cut, wing on,
smoked
Drumstick – boned/bone in
Thigh – fillet, skin on/off
Maryland – skin on/off, boned/bone in
Wings – drummette, wingette
Giblets – liver, neck, heart, kidney, stomach,
feet, comb
Processed – diced, minced
Carcass
Duck
Whole – boned/bone in
Maryland – thigh and leg portions
Breast fillet – boned/bone in, smoked
Giblets – liver, neck, heart, kidney, stomach,
feet
Processed – diced, minced (the leg is
commonly utilised)
Pheasant
Whole
Breast – boned/bone in, smoked
Maryland
Quail
Whole – boned, smoked, marinated
NOTE:
Some poultry products can be purchased according to
the feeding environment e.g. corn fed
Value-added products
Many suppliers of poultry will supply poultry
cuts that are commonly referred to as ‘valueadded’ products. These poultry items have
been processed in some manner as to give
the buyer a wider selection, making it even
more attractive to include them on the menu.
Processing of the poultry cuts can include, but
is not limited to, marinating, sliced and diced
meat, ready rolled, kebabs and sausages.
Quality points for feathered game
Quality points for fresh poultry
When buying poultry there are several quality
points that you should keep in mind to ensure
that the product you receive is fresh and
healthy.
•
•
The beak should break easily.
The breast feathers should be soft and
downy.
The breast should be plump.
The long feathers should be pointed, not
rounded on the ends.
The legs should be smooth and free of
scales.
•
•
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General: Clean overall appearance, free
from blemishes or bruises
Odour: Pleasant, fresh smell with no ‘off’
odours
Breasts: Plump, firm flesh with out any
indentations
Skin: Unbroken and free of scarring or
feathers, with a slight gloss and without
stickiness
Breastbone: The tip should be soft, pliable
and undamaged
Bones: Intact, not broken and showing no
signs of mistreatment
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are the most common
When selecting feathered game, order meat
from younger birds, to ensure a flesh texture
that is fine and moist. Feathered game are sold
whole and are usually plucked and drawn, with
the head removed but the giblets remaining.
This makes the checking for quality difficult as
the best means of determining the quality of
the game is by assessing the freshly killed bird.
If you are able to purchase or obtain from
private hunters feathered game freshly killed
and unprocessed, the following points will be
useful in assessing good quality.
In feathered game:
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Marinated breast and thigh meat – bone in
and boneless products
Filled chicken products – filled breast, rolled
thigh, ballotine of Maryland
Kebabs – marinated (breast or Maryland
meat)
Sausages – a wide selection available (check
with your supplier)
Crumbed products – breast or thigh fillets
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Common ‘value-added’ products
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•
Quality points for frozen poultry
Packaging: Should be intact with no signs of
damage to the original packaging.
Product: Actual product should be free of
ice crystals and surface freezer burn.
Re-freezing: There should be no signs of
defrosting and re-freezing, as this can lead
to bacterial growth.
In frozen game:
•
•
•
•
The package should be sealed.
The portions should be individually
packaged.
The portions should be free of signs of
freezer burn.
The package should be free of signs of refreezing or accumulation of blood.
Handling and storage of poultry
Poultry tends to be classified in the high-risk
food category, so it must be handled and
stored under the strictest quality control
measures. Many factors come into play when
you are handling and storing fresh, cooked
and frozen poultry. Not just personal hygiene,
but equipment such as cool rooms, work
benches and knives can play an important
part in maintaining the quality of the product.
prosecution. In most circumstances you will be
responsible for any health incident resulting
from your inability to follow the correct policies
and procedures set down in a food-safety plan.
Refer to Chapter 3 for more detailed
information about food safety standards and
food hygiene principles.
ES
Guidelines for handling and storing
poultry
Fresh poultry
Poultry must be received chilled (below 4°
Celsius) and aligned with your purchasing
specifications.
Poultry must be refrigerated as soon as
possible. Your delivery times need to be
monitored.
Poultry should be arranged onto correct
trays. Drip trays are preferred.
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•
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Poor handling and storage of poultry will
lead to an inferior product as well as much
bigger problems, such as food poisoning, legal
complications and (in some instances) closure
of the catering establishment.
Darker-meat poultry, such as duck and
pheasant, tend not to deteriorate as quickly
as white-meat poultry such as chicken and
turkey. It may even be advantageous to ‘age’
the darker-meat birds to aid in flavour and
tenderisation. The natural enzymes present in
the meat help to break down the muscles and
connective tissue of the meat, thus producing
a more flavoursome and tender product. This
process needs special attention as the risk
remains high in storage of the darker types
of poultry. It cannot be assumed that, just
because the meat is dark it will keep longer
and does not need the same attentive care
as white-meat poultry. A strict food-rotation
system must be in place, along with top-level,
hygienic storage practices. Your storage areas
must be functioning at a high standard. No
manner of hygiene and rotation will prevent
poultry from spoiling if the refrigeration system
is not operating at the required temperature, or
the seals and doors are not functioning as they
should be.
You must also ensure that your suppliers
are maintaining their storage systems
adequately. All food-processing establishments
must comply with the food-safety standards
set down by the state/territory government;
this includes food-transport vehicles.
These vehicles must comply with the same
strict guidelines that are enforced in your
kitchen’s cold storage areas. A food-safety
plan is mandatory for any food-processing
establishment, and you should check your
supplier’s compliance to the food-standards
codes that are in force. If you deal with a noncompliant supplier, not only could you lose
money and stock due to incorrect handling and
storage practices, you could also be liable for
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Poultry should be covered, labelled and
dated, to minimise confusion. Utilise quality
food wrap.
A sound rotation schedule needs to be
adhered to (first in, first out).
Fresh poultry must be stored away from
cooked foods and foods with strong odours.
Handling of fresh product should be
minimised, to reduce the risk of crosscontamination.
Trays should be changed on a regular basis.
Every second day is preferred.
Poultry must be cooked within a 3-day
period.
Refrigeration needs to be set between 1 to 3°
Celsius in order to gain the maximum life of
the product.
Cooked poultry
•
•
Cooked poultry must be cooled quickly
before refrigerating.
Poultry should be covered, labelled and
dated, to minimise confusion. Utilise quality
food wrap.
•
Frozen poultry
•
•
•
•
Preparation techniques may include:
Cutting – of chicken strips for a stir-fry
Portioning – of a whole pheasant for a wet
braise dish
Trimming – the excess fat away from a duck
breast
Trussing – of a spatchcock for roasting
Barding – of a quail to retain moisture
Farce production – to fill a ballotine of duck
Boning – of a whole chicken
Frenching – a Maryland cut of poultry
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•
Frozen poultry must be received frozen
(between –18 and –23° Celsius) and aligned
with your purchasing specifications.
The product must show no sign of having
been re-frozen.
If freezing fresh product, wrap the poultry
well to prevent freezer burn.
Product must be clearly labelled and dated
to avoid confusion.
Smaller cuts such as breasts and things
should not be frozen in large quantities.
Freeze in quantities that aid in stock
rotation and minimise food spoilage when
thawing.
Frozen poultry has a shelf life of 3–6
months.
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•
Your menu requirements will determine
the amount of preparation that must be
used to produce poultry dishes. Quite often
your supplier will be able to follow your
specifications for the product that you require,
but it may be advantageous to apply certain
forms of preparation to help reduce costs and
allow the experience of doing these procedures
to be part of your establishment’s working day.
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•
Preparation of poultry
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•
A sound rotation schedule needs to be
adhered to (first in, first out).
Cooked poultry should be consumed within
a 2-day period.
Refrigeration needs to be set between 1 to 3°
Celsius in order to gain the maximum life of
the product.
Cooked poultry must be stored away from
fresh foods and foods with strong odours.
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•
Thawing frozen poultry
•
•
•
•
Frozen poultry must be thawed in the
refrigerator/cool room below 4° Celsius.
Any pooled liquid should be removed when
thawing to prevent bacterial growth and
deterioration of the product.
Poultry should never be thawed at room
temperature or by immersing the poultry in
water.
Thawed poultry products should not be
re-frozen as this practice can lead to food
spoilage.
[insert filler image]
Portioning of a chicken
Due to time constraints and labour costs, it is a widely accepted practice in contemporary
kitchens to purchase pre-portioned cuts of poultry. Nonetheless, having a basic understanding of
how to portion a chicken into its primary cuts is a skill that is worthwhile to master, as there may
be situations in which you need to apply this skill.
Step 1: Cut through the skin between the leg and the breast.
Step 3: Cut the leg away from the body. Repeat on the other side.
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Step 2: Bend the leg back as far as possible, so the end of the leg bone pops out from the socket.
Step 4: Cut through the joints connecting the drumsticks to the thighs and separate.
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Step 5: Pull the wing out fully and cut it away from the breast. Repeat on the other side.
nose (use the bones for stock).
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Step 6: Cut along the underside of the bird to separate the breast section of the bird from the backbone and parson’s
Step 7: TTo serve the breasts off the bone, cut either side of the breastbone with poultry shears or strong kitchen
scissors then carefully remove the breast meat from the bones with a sharp knife. If serving on the bone, turn
the chicken over and cut through the centre of the breastbone to separate the breasts - the wings are usually
left attached when the breasts are cooked on the bone.
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Step 8: The chicken is now divided into eight pieces. To divide into four pieces, cut the wings away with the breasts
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and don’t separate the drumsticks from the thighs.
Cutting for sauté (8 pieces)
Chicken cut for sauté indicates that the skin and bones are retained, while the knuckles are
removed.
Lay the chicken down,
breast side up and legs
facing your body. Pull the
wings out and cut through
the first joint from the
breast.
Repeat on the other side.
Holding the leg, cut
through the skin between
the leg and the breast.
Hold the chicken firmly
and bend the leg back as
far as possible so that the
end of the leg pops out of
the socket at the hip.
Turn the chicken over and
hold the leg up so that
the oyster is visible under
the skin.
Both legs have been
removed.
Cutting through the
joint at the top of the
wishbone, remove part
of the breast and the
wingbone.
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Draw the blade down
between the end of the
leg and the socket towards
the vent, removing the leg
completely.
Breast and wingbone
have been removed.
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Remove the leg and the
oyster from the chicken.
Stand the chicken on its
neck and cut the back away
from the breast.
French the wing tip.
The breast has been
removed.
Cut the breast diagonally
into two equal pieces.
Remove the knuckle from
the Frenched bone.
Separate the thigh and
the drumstick by cutting
through the joint.
The thigh and drumstick
have been separated.
Repeat with the drumsticks.
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French both ends of the thighbones and remove the
knuckles.
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Eight pieces have been
prepared for sauté.
Eight pieces shown with the
chicken frame. Frames should
be kept for stocks or other
culinary purposes.
Deboning the wings
Hold the wing firmly and
cut the connective tissue
between the two bones.
Firmly grasp the smaller
bone and run your thumb
and forefinger down to the
joint. Remove the small
bone by lightly twisting.
Firmly grasp the larger
bone, holding the wing
joint with your other hand.
Twist the large bone out
of the socket and remove.
Completed.
Preparing a suprême
Firmly grasp the base of the wishbone and pull free.
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Locate the wishbone and using
your knife, scrape it clean of
meat.
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Place the chicken breast up,
legs facing your body. Remove
the wings at the first joint.
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A suprême is a skinless breast of chicken with the wingbone attached to the first joint.
Holding the leg, cut through
the skin between the leg and
the breast.
Hold the chicken firmly and bend
the leg back as far as possible so
that the end of the leg pops out
of the socket at the hip.
Remove the leg and the oyster
from the chicken.
Remove the skin from the
breast by pulling from the tip
of the breastbone toward the
neck.
Find the centre of the breast and
draw your knife down one side
of the bone.
Carefully remove the breast
meat, ensuring that the wing
bone remains attached.
The breast has been removed.
Remove the knuckle.
Trim any remaining skin.
Completed suprême.
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French the wingbone.
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Preparing a ballotine
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A ballotine is a tunnel-boned leg that may be filled with a farce and is usually braised or poached.
Carefully remove the flesh
from the knuckle of the
drumstick.
Scrape the flesh from the
bone.
The bone has been removed.
Scrape the flesh from
around the next joint
(knee), being careful not
to separate the bone.
Completed. The leg is now ready
to be filled. Bones should be
kept for stocks or other culinary
purposes.
Scrape the remaining flesh
from the bone.
Cut through the bone
with the heel of the knife,
leaving the knuckle in the
base of the leg.
Prepared suprême and ballotine.
•
•
•
maintain a consistent and appealing shape
to the product
maintain, moisture to prevent a ‘dry’
product
produce even cooking of a large product,
with minimal burning
secure the farce in selected products.
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There are three main methods of trussing a
whole bird: hand trussing, needle trussing and
trussing without string.
Trussing without string
This method of trussing is used on smaller
birds that are cooked whole, such as
spatchcock. An incision is made in the skin,
near the tail end of the bird, where the leg is
pushed through. Alternatively, an incision can
be made at the lower part of the leg and the
knuckle end of the other leg pushed through
to hold the legs together. The wings are tucked
behind to protect them from overcooking or
becoming dry.
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Traditionally, poultry meats were hung with
their feathers intact and quite often not
under refrigeration. Due contemporary health
regulations, this is now a prohibited practice.
Hanging will enhance the taste and improve
(to some degree) the eating qualities of poultry
meats. This is due to the natural enzymes and
surface bacteria, which help to break down
the muscle fibres. Hanging must be done in
a controlled environment with strict storage
conditions, as food spoilage is always a major
factor.
Poultry such as duck, pheasant and guinea
fowl are best suited to hanging. Chicken
is generally not hung as the light eating
characteristics of the flesh is gained as a ‘ready
to eat’ type of bird. It is best to check with your
retailer about its hanging/ageing guidelines.
for your, or you can do it yourself, depending on
the expertise of both parties.
Trussing helps to:
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Hanging of poultry
Trussing
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When roasting a poultry product (either whole
or a joint), it is normal to implement a form of
trussing to help with a number of factors when
cooking. Your supplier may truss the product
Hand trussing
This method is best used on whole birds cooked without stuffing and with their bones left in.
Before you begin, remove the wishbone to make carving easier.
Place the chicken breast up, legs facing
your body.
Twist and tuck the wingtips under the shoulder. This prevents the wings from burning.
Inspect the cavity for giblets and remove any fat from the vent.
Repeat with the left hand and leg. The
string should now look like a figure eight
surrounding the legs.
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Loop the twine in your right hand under the
right leg.
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Turn the chicken so the neck is facing your
body. Using a length of butcher’s twine,
place the middle of the twine under the
parson’s nose and around the outside of
the legs. Cross the twine at the top.
Draw the twine down both
sides of the chicken and under
the wings. Loop three times
and pull tightly, ensuring the
twine is positioned between
the neck and the breast. See
final image.
Loop one final time and tie off.
Cross the legs and draw the twine tightly so
that the vent is now completely closed.
The leg end of the trussed
chicken.
The neck end of the trussed
chicken.
Needle trussing
This method is recommended for partially or completely de-boned birds and when you are using
farce (stuffing).
Enter the needle through the wing and pass it through the breast skin and neck stump.
Step 2:
Bring the needle out through the other wing.
Step 3:
Now pass the needle through the end of the leg and through the tip of the breast cartilage.
Step 4:
Pull the needle out through the end of the other leg.
Step 5:
Tie up the two ends.
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Step 1:
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Step by step de-boning of a chicken
Cut through the skin down to the backbone, turn knife and follow around bone.
Step 2:
Dislocate hip joints.
Step 3:
Separate leg through flesh at the joint staying close to the bone.
Step 4:
Separate first wing bone at shoulder joint.
Step 5:
Continue to remove flesh around ribcage while keeping the knife close to bone.
Step 6:
Continue separating flesh and bone around keel bone. Be careful not to cut skin.
Step 7:
Separate wing flesh from frame.
Step 8:
Expose first wing for removal.
Step 9:
Separate flesh and wing at second joint.
Step 10:
Chop off the tip of drumstick using the heel of your knife.
Step 11:
Scrape and remove first leg bone.
Step 12:
Scrape and remove second leg bone.
Step 13:
Finished and ready for stuffing and rolling.
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Step 1:
Barding
It is necessary to apply a fat content to the
leaner types of poultry. This is done through the
process of barding. Barding adds moisture to
the product when it is subject to a dry method
of cookery (as the product is subjected to heat,
the fat content will render and self-baste the
product). Barding is utilised on smaller cuts or
whole birds such as quail, where the product is
wrapped in shaved pieces of fat.
Traditionally, pork back fat was used for
barding as it was a neutral-tasting product
and rendered down a lot more readily. In
the contemporary kitchen, a number of
products can be substituted as they can aid
in the flavouring of the product being cooked.
Prosciutto, pancetta and bacon are just a few
of the barding materials used.
Cooking poultry
Poultry is a particularly versatile meat that is suited to many different methods of cookery. It is
important, however, to make sure that the poultry you have chosen is suited to the method of
cookery. For each recipe or cooking style you must consider the type, age and size of the poultry.
Table 18.2: Cooking methods and examples of poultry types/cuts
An excellent method for cooking whole poultry. Stuff the bird to increase its flavour and truss
it for a compact shape that is easier to carve.
Boiling
Generally applied to older, poorer-quality birds, especially chickens
Poaching
Good for tender meats such as chicken breasts and turkey fillets
Steaming
Good for tender birds, either whole or cuts. This method is typically used in hospital or
special dietary cooking
Stewing
Recommended for tougher meats but can be used for more tender cuts, such as in a
fricassee
Braising
Try this method for a whole duck or goose
Pot roasting
Another excellent method for cooking whole chicken, duck or goose
Baking
Not normally used for poultry; however, dishes cooked en papillote may be an exception.
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Roasting
Grilling
Highly suitable for chicken and turkey portions, spatchcock and quail, which can be grilled
whole
Shallow frying
Suitable for the most tender and best-quality cuts of poultry, such as suprêmes or sautéed
poultry cuts
Deep frying
Can be used for coated poultry portions, such as a crumbed chicken Kiev or a tempura batter
for Japanese-style chicken
Table 18.3: Poultry classifications and cooking times
Drawn weight
Suitable cookery methods
Menu examples
Spring chicken
400–700 g
Roasting
Pot cooking
Grilling
Roast spring chicken, grilled spatchcock
Small, young
chicken
1.25–1.5 kg
Roasting
Sauté
Grilling
Poaching
Shallow frying
Pot roasting
Roast chicken
Chicken sauté
Chicken chasseur
Grilled chicken
Chicken Américaine
Chicken in cocotte Chicken Grand-Mère
Young, medium
chicken
1.5–1.75 kg
Roasting
Sauté
Grilling
Poaching
Shallow frying
Pot roasting
Supreme of chicken in cream sauce
Fricassee of chicken
Young, fattened hen
2–2.5 kg
Roasting
Pot roasting
Poaching
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Name
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Poached chicken, rice and curry sauce
Castrated male
chicken
2.5–3.5 kg
Roasting
Poêlé
Poaching
Coq-au-vin
Boiling fowl
2–3 kg
Poaching
Chicken vol-au-vent
Chicken croquettes
Young turkey
3–6 kg
Roasting
Poaching
Pot roasting
Chestnut-stuffed roast turkey
Large turkey hen
6–10 kg
Roasting
Roast turkey
Duckling
1.5–2 kg
Roasting
Pot roasting
Sautée
Roast duckling Duckling bigarade
Poêlé duckling Duckling Montmorency
Duck
2–3 kg
Roasting
Roast duck with mango sauce
Goose
5–7kg
Roasting
Braising
Pot roasting
Roast goose, English style
Young Guinea fowl
750g–1kg
Roasting
Pot roasting
Roast guinea fowl with endives
Roast guinea fowl
Pintade en cocotte
Guinea fowl salmis
Pheasant
900g–1.5kg
Roasting
Pot roasting
Pheasant with celery Pheasant en cocotte
Young or squab
pigeon
350–500g
Rôti
Pot roasting
Grilling
Sautée
Grilled pigeon
Sûpreme of pigeon with morels
Pigeon
Around 400g
Braising
Roasting
Stewing
Quail
100–200g
Roasting
Pot roasting
Marinades
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In the act of marinading of a food product we
can apply two ways of doing so. Either a wet
(cooked/uncooked) or a dry method can be
utilised to complete the marinading process.
We marinate food products for a number of
reasons:
•
•
•
•
•
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Roasting
Braising
Pot roasting
Roasted pigeon
Pigeon pie
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Poultry must
be well cooked,
particularly
chicken, with
an internal
temperature above
76° C.
1–1.5kg
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NOTE:
Guinea fowl
to impart flavour into the product
to improve the eating qualities
to help tenderise tougher cuts
to help preserve the product
to improve the visual appeal of certain food
products.
The main components of a wet marinade
are an acid (such as wine or vinegar) and
flavouring commodities (herbs, spices and
flavouring agents). Be wary of adding too many
ingredients into a marinade. The marinade can
be spoilt by adding too many flavours, whereas
a simple collection of fresh ingredients will
suffice.
The length of time for which you marinate
food depends on the size and cut of the meat.
Small cuts only need to be marinated for
Roast stuffed quails
Quails with grapes
30 minutes to 1 hour, while a large roasting
bird can be marinated overnight. If you are
marinating for more than 30 minutes it is
imperative to store the food in the cool room. If
the food product is not totally immersed in the
marinade, you need to make sure you rotate
the food regularly to get a complete coverage of
the marinade on the food product.
A dry marinade consists of herbs and spices
being rubbed over the food product, and then
it is let sit for the flavours to impart into the
product. The flavours of this method will not
penetrate as much as the wet marinade, but
it will give the product a distinct crust flavour,
with the inner part of the food product having
a more natural taste.
Leftovers and off cuts
Poultry off cuts can be minimised by
purchasing prepared cuts. Otherwise, off cuts
can sometimes be used as individual portions.
For example, chicken wings could be marinated
and sold as an entrée. Otherwise, meat can be
used in stews and stuffings, while the bones
and sinews can be used in stocks and sauces.
Carving principles
Although there is no single method suited
to carving all birds, there are some general
principles that will be helpful in all carving.
•
Presentation of poultry
•
•
•
Carve the product (often the breast portion)
across the grain to ensure tenderness. If the
poultry is carved parallel to the grain, the
meat will be of a stringy and chewy nature.
Use a slicing motion and the full length
of the blade without applying too much
downward pressure. Let the blade do all the
work to prevent the meat from tearing.
•
The thickness of the carved portions of
poultry is determined by the service needs
and the enterprise’s requirements.
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Poultry that has been roasted, poêléed, or
braised whole should be carving before being
served. Carving is the process of cutting
and slicing cooked meat into neat, servable
portions. When poultry is taken straight from
the roasting or braising pan, the natural juices
in the centre are very hot and liquefied. If the
cooked portion is carved at this point, the
juices will quickly seep out from the first cut,
causing the meat to rapidly lose flavour and
become dry.
When serving whole poultry you need to
rest it in a warm area after the cooking process
and before carving. Resting allows the natural
juices to cool a little, to settle and evenly
disperse within the flesh. It also encourages
the muscles to relax before carving, thereby
allowing the served product to be more tender.
Carving techniques differ depending on
the size and type of poultry item. Carving may
involve:
• Cutting and portioning small to mediumsized birds into serviceable pieces.
Examples: chicken, pheasant (small birds
like quail and pigeon are usually left whole
for service).
• Cutting the breasts and legs of large birds
into evenly shaped slices. Example: turkey.
• Slicing boned poultry meats into neat, even
slices. Example: turkey breast.
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Carving
Cook the item a little less than required, to
allow for carry-over cooking.
Rest in a warm place while covered for
15–25 minutes before carving.
Always use a clean cutting board and a
sharp, flexible, long-bladed carving knife.
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Leftovers are unsold, cooked items. Dry
items, such as roast pheasant, could be
included in salads or sandwiches. Wet dishes,
such as a cassoulet of duck, can be successfully
reheated following the correct hygiene
procedures.
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To carve a chicken
1 Remove the legs with the oyster and cut into two at the joint.
2 Slice off a piece of breast parallel with the carcass, taking off the wing joint at
the same time.
3 Cut off another slice parallel to the breastbone and serve this with the drumstick.
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4 Serve the first slice of breast with the thigh portion.
Alternative method of carving the breast
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1 Make a cut in the breast parallel to the breastbone. Insert the point of the knife
into the wing joint and sever the joint. Peel the breast off the carcass in one
piece.
2 Repeat the procedure for the other breast.
3 Cut each breast in half, and portion as directed above.
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As you can see, carving the breast meat from these three common poultry birds follows the
basic principles of knife and bird positioning.
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When a poultry item has been carved, the slices tend to cool very quickly. If you are not
carving directly for service to the customer, cover the carved meat and keep it warm.
Carving too early (before the product is required) will lead to the carved portions drying out
and becoming cold.
Sauces, accompaniments and
garnishes
Examples from the sauce groups that can
be used in poultry dishes:
Stock-based (velouté / jus-lié)
Brandy and mushroom
Cracked pepper with marjoram
Reduction of pan juices with roasted garlic
The limitations to the list of sauces,
accompaniments and garnishes that you can
serve with poultry are mainly governed by your
imagination and the clientele to whom you are
providing a food service. In preparing sauces,
accompaniments and garnishes, it is important
to be mindful of:
Sauces
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Marinade base
Soy and chilli
Honey and ginger
White wine with sage
Miscellaneous
Salsa verde
Warm olive oil and thyme dressing
Tomato and basil compote
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Stock-based sauces (velouté) and pan juices
(
(jus-lié
) are probably the most common types of
sauces used with poultry. Be aware of your base
(stock), as it is imperative that you have a solid
foundation to work from when creating sauces.
Cream-based sauces are commonly used and
are highly suited for use with poultry.
Fruit-based sauces are another common
base utilised with poultry. Because of the acid
content of the fruit, it works very well with
poultry that may be high in fat content, such
as duck. Be aware that some fruit seeds can be
quite tart; not straining the sauce may have
an adverse affect on the final presentation and
taste of that sauce.
The base marinade can also help to form
the sauce for poultry. The flow-on effect of
the marinade base to the sauce will help to
reinforce the taste and style of the food being
served. It is imperative that you make sure that
you follow good hygiene principles when using
the marinade, as it has been subjected to a raw
ingredient and you need to be aware of any
possible cross-contamination.
Cream-based
Cream and baby spinach
A reduction of cream and seeded mustard
Juniper berry crème fraiche
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the strength of the sauce
what the sauce is being served with
dietary requirements of your clientele
expertise in the kitchen
equipment requirements
menu requirements
seasonal changes.
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•
•
•
•
•
•
Fruit-based
Lemon and chervil reduction
Lime and parsley glaze
Mango and mint purée
It is important to understand each sauce and
realise that there may be a number of ways
that you can re-invent them. Being able to do
this will come from experience, and you will
learn just how far you can change a sauce
before it does not suit the dish you are serving
it with.
Always taste a sauce that you have
invented/re-invented before you try it out on
your customers. If you are not entirely happy
with any facet of the sauce then imagine if
you were a paying customer and received this
product. Near enough is definitely not good
enough.
Accompaniments
Like sauces, the list of accompaniments
to serve with poultry is quite endless. You
will need to research and try out different
combinations to obtain a proper understanding
of what works well and what does not. The
Follow your own initiative when garnishing
a dish and consider the following:
•
•
•
•
Different vegetable cuts
Different types of fruit – fresh and
processed
Nuts and seeds
Rice varieties
Fresh herbs
Pasta varieties
Fungi group
Salad varieties
Different types of farce
Cured/smoked meats
Garnishes may include, but are not limited to,
the following categories:
Fresh herbs – for example, a sprig of lemon
thyme
Vegetable cuts – for example, a julienne of
leek, deep-fried golden
Fresh and dried fruits – for example,
segmented limes/ brunoise of dried apricots
Dried spices –for example, a fine dust of
sumac
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Garnishes
•
Does the garnish look out of place?
Is the garnish lifeless and bland?
Does the garnish have stimulation about it?
Is the garnishing overtaking the
presentation of the dish?
Does the garnish flow on from the main
ingredient?
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following is a list of product groups that can be
utilised as accompaniments for poultry. Once
again, it is not an exhaustive list.
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The garnishing of the dish is just as important
as its taste. There are many combinations that
can be used to help present poultry to your
customer. The old saying that ‘you eat with
your eyes first’ is very true when it comes
to any type of eating establishment. From
the comfort of the family table to the 5-star
restaurant, this is a vital thing to remember.
Garnishing can and should be a simple act,
as it is the dish that is the most important part
of the meal. The accompaniments, garnish and
the sauce provide back up and complement the
dish in its final form. But each part of the dish
most not be under-rated. A poorly garnished
dish will do nothing to excite the palate of your
customer.
•
•
If you (and your colleagues) are happy with the
presentation then quite often the customer will
be as well. Try not to fuss over the garnish as
sometimes an overworked and garish-looking
garnish can seem place when perhaps a simple
fresh herb leaf would have been sufficient.
Chicken
Roast chicken
QUANTITIES
10PORTIONS
Chicken, No. 10
1
5
Cooking oil or dripping
20 mL
Aromats (page XX)
X
enough to flavour lightly
60 mL
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Procedure
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2PORTIONS
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1 Season the chicken in the cavity and stuff with aromats. Truss
T
(if necessary).
2 Coat with oil or melted dripping and season the outside.
3 Place the chicken on its side in a roasting dish and roast in a hot oven at
200° Celsius. After 20 minutes, turn onto the other side and allow another 15
minutes to achieve a moist, even browning.
5 Baste occasionally.
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4 Now turn the chicken onto its back to finish cooking (about 15 minutes). Allow a
total of 40–45 minutes cooking time.
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6 Serve with roast gravy, roast potato and vegetables or salad.
NOTE
After roasting, chickens must be placed upside down (that is, on their breasts) in a
clean pan so that the juice can run back into the breast and not into the backbone.
Aromats
As chickens often lack a distinct flavour of their own, the following items may be
used to advantage by placing them in the cavity prior to cooking:
• 2 pieces of onion (say 50 grams), fresh marjoram, thyme and parsley stalk
• onion and small sprigs of fresh rosemary.
‘Doneness’
To test for doneness, allow the liquid to run from the cavity onto a clean plate. If
there are signs of blood in the juice, it is not yet cooked; if the juice runs clear it is
done.
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To joint a roast chicken
Large quantity procedure
When 100–200 hot chickens need to be served quickly they may be disjointed by
hand.
1 Keep a bowl of very cold water nearby. Dip clean hands in the water and take
up the hot chicken.
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2 Remove the legs by folding them outward and toward the back of the carcass.
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3 Insert the thumbs into the breast cavity and peel the breasts off the carcass. Do
this by pushing down with the thumb to dislocate the wing joint. Then take the
breast gently between the thumb and fingers and peel back, at the same time
breaking the wishbone. Remove the pieces of wishbone.
Sauté of chicken
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4 Serve immediately or arrange in portions in hot bain-marie containers.
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This style of preparation makes portioning and good presentation easy. There are
many variations in the cookery repertoire, and opportunities exist for the chef to
create new ones.
In principle, the sauce for the chicken sauté is prepared separately, but any
cooking juices from the chicken should always be included in the sauce. A sauté
may be either brown or white (in fact, light fawn or cream coloured). In preparing
the former, the chicken pieces are allowed to colour in the pan when frying. In the
case of the latter the chicken is fried only long enough to stiffen the flesh and seal
cut surfaces.
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Sauté of chicken chasseur
QUANTITIES
4PORTIONS
10PORTIONS
Chicken, No. 12
1
2½
Butter
10 g
20 g
Oil
10 mL
30 mL
Mushrooms, open grade, sliced
80 g
200 g
Onions, chopped
80 g
200 g
Tomato concassé (Recipe XX)
X
100 g
200 g
Dry white wine
100 mL
250 mL
Tarragon, dried
trace
1g
Demi-glaçe (Recipe XX)
X
200 mL
500 mL
Parsley,University
chopped
for garnish
Sample Pages • Cambridge
Press • ©2011 Dodgshun, Petersfor
andgarnish
O'Dea • 978-0-521-15632-5
Brown sauté using demi-glaçe
Procedure
1 Heat the butter and oil in a frying pan. When the butter is sizzling, add the thighs
and drumsticks and fry until golden brown.
2 When nearly done, add the rest of the chicken and brown quickly. (The
(
dark
meat takes longer to cook than the white meat.)
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3 Transfer the chicken to a covered dish. Season and moisten with 50 millilitres
of the wine and allow to finish cooking over a low heat or in the oven (about 40
minutes).
G
4 Add the onion to the pan and fry gently without taking much colour. Add the
mushrooms and finish off quickly.
PA
5 Add the rest of the white wine and tarragon, and any cooking liquor from the
chicken. Reduce by half.
6 Add demi-glaçe and tomato concassé, and reduce to correct consistency.
7 Correct the seasoning.
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Variations
E
8 Set the chicken in a serving dish. Ladle the sauce over and sprinkle with
chopped parsley.
All chicken sautés follow steps 1 and 2 above. Variations
V
are achieved:
1 By adding aromats to the chicken while it finishes cooking
2 By using different sauces
3 With garnishes
378
Sauté of chicken with madeira
QUANTITIES
10PORTIONS
Chicken, No. 12
1
2½
Butter
20 g
50 g
Oil
20 mL
50 mL
Onions, chopped
50 g
Brandy
10 mL
20 mL
Chicken velouté
150 mL
500 mL
Cream
100 mL
150 mL
squeeze
15 mL
G
ES
4PORTIONS
PA
Lemon juice
Madeira
20 mL
130 g
50 mL
White sauté using velouté
Procedure
E
1 Fry the chicken just enough to stiffen the flesh. Do not brown.
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2 Sweat the onion, add to the chicken and allow to finish cooking.
3 Set the chicken in a serving dish, leaving the onion in the pan. Keep the chicken
in a warm place.
4 Drain off excess fat. Add brandy and reduce slightly.
5 Add the velouté and cream and reduce by one-third.
6 Add lemon juice and madeira.
7 Correct the seasoning.
8 Pass the sauce through a fine strainer over the chicken.
Sauté of chicken Stanley
QUANTITIES
10PORTIONS
Chicken, No. 12
1
2½
Butter
20 g
40 g
Oil
20 mL
50 mL
Onions, sliced
150 g
300 g
Chicken stock
50 mL
Cream
150 mL
Curry powder
10 g
Mushrooms, caps grade
100 g
Procedure
130 mL
300 mL
G
25 g
250 g
PA
White sauté using curry
ES
4PORTIONS
1 Fry the chicken lightly to stiffen the flesh.
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2 Transfer the chicken to a covered dish, cover with onions and allow to finish
cooking over a low heat or in the oven.
3 Remove the stalks from the mushrooms and set aside for other use. Fry the
mushrooms lightly. Put aside and keep warm.
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379
4 Pour off any excess fat. Add curry powder and fry for 1 minute. (Use more or
less curry powder according to desired strength.) Deglaze the pan with the
stock.
5 Dress the chicken in a serving dish and add the cooking juices to the pan.
6 Add the cream and simmer for 10 minutes only.
7 Garnish the chicken with the mushroom caps and strain over the sauce. Serve
at once.
380
Sauté of chicken in red wine (Coq au vin)
QUANTITIES
10PORTIONS
Chicken, No. 12
1
2½
Butter
20 g
40 g
Oil
20 mL
50 mL
Speck or streaky bacon
1.50 g
2.50 g
Onion, small pickling
250 g
500 g (or 3 per
serve)
Mushrooms, button grade
120 g
300 g
1 clove
2 cloves
20 mL
50 mL
150 mL
250 mL
200 mL
370 mL
1
1
10 g
15 g
G
ES
4PORTIONS
Brandy
Chicken or veal stock
Red wine
Bouquet garni
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Garlic, finely chopped
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Brown sauté
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Modified starch
Procedure
1 Cut the bacon into small batons and allow to sweat in the butter and oil in a
frying pan.
2 Add the onions and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the mushrooms and continue
to fry until the onions appear clear and lightly coloured.
3 Remove the onions, mushrooms and bacon from the pan and use the fat to fry
the chicken.
4 Coat the chicken pieces in seasoned flour and fry the thighs and drumsticks
until golden brown. Add the other pieces; brown lightly.
5 Transfer the chicken to a covered dish. Add the mushrooms, onions, bacon,
garlic, bouquet garni and red wine.
6 Pour off excess fat from the pan and deglaze with the brandy. Add the stock
and bring to boil. Pour over the chicken.
7 Allow to finish cooking over a low heat or in the oven.
8 Garnish the chicken, dress in a hot serving dish and keep warm.
9 Bring the cooking liquor to the boil on top of the range and thicken with
modified starch.
10Strain the sauce over the chicken. Just before serving, sprinkle with chopped
parsley.
381
Grilled chicken
Procedure
1 Cut off the wing tips. Trim
T
off surplus skin at the neck.
ES
For grilling, allow a half chicken per portion. A No. 10 size bird is preferred. It
is essential to prevent the chicken from becoming dry when using this method
of cooking. Baste or use a fine spray during cookery and control the heat. It is
advisable to use a folding grill holder, as this keeps the portion neat and aids
turning.
2 Insert a knife through the bird from the rear and cut through one side of the
backbone.
4 Season and brush all over with oil.
PA
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3 Open out the bird, cut away the backbone and flatten carefully. Clean away
the veins and dark pieces from the rib cage, as they will become black and
undesirable when cooked.
5 To grill, place the chicken under the salamander, turning and basting
occasionally. Test
T for doneness after 20 minutes.
6 When cooked, remove the rib bones and breast bones.
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7 Dress on a serving dish with mignonette potatoes (see page 458) and sauce or
compound butter as required.
Variations
382
Grilled devilled chicken
1 Just before serving, brush the chicken with English mustard, sprinkle with fine fresh
breadcrumbs and a little melted butter.
2 Brown under the salamander and serve immediately.
383
Grilled chicken with devilled sauce
Grill the chicken and serve a devilled sauce separately (see Recipe XX).
X
384
Breast of chicken
The white meat cooks very quickly and is usually presented in one of the following ways:
•
•
•
•
Crumbed, shallow fried and served with a garnish
Pan-fried, then finished in a sauce
Poached on the bone if it is to be served cold
Flattened, stuffed, rolled up, crumbed and deep-fried.
385
Crumbed breast of chicken with pawpaw salsa
QUANTITIES
Chicken breasts from No. 12 or 14
4
10
Crumbing set, fresh crumbs
(Recipe XX)
X
as required
as required
Macadamia nuts
80 g
200 g
Butter
20 g
Vegetable oil
40 mL
Pawpawsalsa
150 g
PA
Paw paw (or papaya), peeled, seeded
and cut in small dice
ES
10PORTIONS
G
for frying
4PORTIONS
100 g
150 mL
375 g
X
60 g
150 g
Purple salad onion, finely chopped
15 g
40 g
Garlic, minced
2g
5g
¹⁄10 bunch
¼ bunch
10 mL
25 mL
trace
pinch
Sweet chilli sauce
5 mL
15 mL
Salt and pepper
to taste
to taste
Lemon/lime juice
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Nutmeg
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Fresh coriander, chopped
Procedure
1 Crumb the macadamia nuts in a food processor. Mix them with fresh
breadcrumbs in the ratio of 8 grams of nuts to 10 grams of crumbs.
2 Trim the chicken breasts and flatten them slightly. Crumb them and allow to set
in a refrigerator for half an hour.
3 Shallow fry the chicken in butter and oil for 5–6 minutes on each side. Take
T
care
to control the heat so that the crumbs are golden coloured and the chicken
cooked in the same time. Remove from the pan and drain well. Serve with the
cold salsa.
To make salsa
1 Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Adjust seasoning and refrigerate.
NOTE
The salsa may be warmed and served hot.
Contents
PA
G
Vegetables and fruit
Seasonal supply of vegetables and fruits
xx
Loss in preparation of vegetables and fruits
xx
Vegetables
xx
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Fruit
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21
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CHAPTER
xx
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612 cookeryforthehospitalityindustry
own characteristics, quality points and
storage requirements. These must be taken
into account so as to purchase efficiently,
maximise shelf life and manage stock rotation
to maintain quality.
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Seasonal supply of vegetables
and fruits
Table 21.1 shows the seasonal availability of
G
common vegetables and fruits. The heavy line
indicates the height of the season when the
item is plentiful. The light line indicates that
supplies are generally available. The items
may be available at other times of the year in
very limited quantities, and quality is likely
to be inferior. One difficulty in compiling this
chart has been to allow for widely differing
geographic regions and variations in seasonal
conditions. In view of this, the chart should be
used only as a guide. Check availability and
price at your local markets.
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Vegetables and fruit provide an excellent
source of vitamins, minerals and dietary fibre.
The enormous variety of produce available
today offers an opportunity for creativity in
preparing dishes for the menu. Vegetables
may feature on a menu on their own, as an
accompaniment to main dishes or mixed in
with other ingredients. Fruits are increasingly
used throughout the menu and not just
reserved for desserts.
For the restaurant industry, unusual
vegetables or varieties grown specifically to a
certain size or shape can provide exclusivity.
The decision to purchase fresh produce underripe, ripe or very ripe will depend on how and
when the items are to be used. Large-size
vegetables may be easier to cut into shapes but
may not be as flavoursome as smaller sizes.
The increase in variety of vegetables and
fruit available in Australia is largely due to
the fact that established growing areas have
continued to be productive and new areas
have been developed in the country’s northern
regions. Growers can choose to crop a variety
of produce suited to cool, temperate or tropical
conditions. We can usually draw supplies
from these areas at all times of the year. New
varieties of vegetables and fruit are being
grown in commercial quantities, and when
local supply is unavailable produce is imported
from overseas.
The right time to purchase vegetables and
fruit is when they are in season: at their peak
in quality, plentiful in supply and cheapest.
The drawback of purchasing out-of-season
produce is a lack of flavour and higher cost.
Every variety of vegetable and fruit has its
chapter 21: vegetables and fruit 613
Table 21.1:Seasonalsupplychart
Seasonal supply
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Light supply
Sep
VEGETABLES
Artichokes
Globe
Jerusalem
ES
Asian greens
Bok choy
Chinese cabbage
G
Gai choy
Pak choy
Pak choy sum
Asparagus
Basil
PA
Komatsuna
Beetroot
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Bean shoots
E
Beans
Broad beans
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbages
Green, Red
Chinese
Capsicum
Carrots
Cauliflowers
Celeriac
Celery
Chokos
Cucumbers
Green
Apple
Eggplant
Endive
Oct
Nov
Dec
Seasonal supply
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Light supply
Sep
Oct
Fennel
Garlic
Ginger
Kohlrabi
Leeks
ES
Lettuces
Marrows
Mushrooms (cultivated)
G
Okra
Onions
PA
Parsley
Parsnips
Peas
Potatoes
E
Number 1 grade
Pumpkins
Radishes
Salad greens
Silver beet
Snow peas
Spinach
Spring onions
Squash
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New grade
Swedes
Sweet corn
Sweet potatoes (Kumara)
Tomatoes
White turnips
Witlof
Zucchini (Courgettes)
FRUITS
Apples
Delicious
Golden Delicious
Nov
Dec
Seasonal supply
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Light supply
Sep
Granny Smith
Gravenstein
Jonathan
Apples (controlled atmosphere)
Delicious
ES
Golden Delicious
Granny Smith
Jonathan
G
Apricots
Bananas
Berries
Blackberries
Blueberries
PA
Avocado pears
Raspberries
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Strawberries
E
Loganberries
Cantaloupes (rockmelons)
Carambola
Cherries
Chestnuts
Coconut
Custard apples
Dates
Feijoa
Figs
Grapefruit
Grapes
Black muscats
Sultanas
Waltham Cross
Other
Wine grapes
Black
Oct
Nov
Dec
Seasonal supply
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Light supply
Sep
White
Guava
Honeydew melons
Kiwi fruit (Chinese gooseberries)
Lemons
ES
Limes
Lychees
Mandarins
G
Mangoes
Nectarines
PA
Olives
Oranges
Navel
Valencia
E
Passionfruit
Peaches
Pears
Beurré Bosc
Packhams
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Pawpaws
Pears (controlled atmosphere)
Beurré Bosc
Packham
Persimmons
Pineapples
Plums
Pomegranates
Quinces
Rambutans
Rhubarb
Tamarillo
Watermelons
Oct
Nov
Dec
A note about ethylene-gas ripening
Ethylene gas is used to ripen green fruits such as bananas and tomatoes. This gas is given off
naturally by some vegetables and fruits as they ripen. The presence of too much ethylene can
speed up the deterioration of some vegetables and fruits. Care should be taken when storing
different vegetables and fruits in close proximity, so that one does not hasten the deterioration
of another. Tables 21.2 and 21.3 give an indication of those vegetables and fruits that produce
medium to high levels of ethylene and those that are sensitive to the affects of its presence.
Avocado
Breadfruit
Custard Apple
Durian
Fig
Jackfruit
Kiwifruit
Mango
Mangosteen
Melon – Honeydew
Papaya
Passionfruit
Peach
Plum
Rambutan
Tomato
Banana
Feijoa
G
Apricot
Lychee
Nectarine
PA
Apple
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Table 21.2:Vegetablesandfruitsmediumtohighinsensitivitytoripeningwithethylenegas
Pear
Apricot
Asparagus
Avocado
Beans
Broccoli
Brussels sprout
Carrot
Cauliflower
Celery
Chinese greens [all]
Corn
Cucumber
Custard apple
Eggplant
Endive
Guava
Kiwifruit
Lemon
Lettuce [all]
Lychee
Mango
Melons [all]
Nectarine
Olives
Papaya
Parsnip
Peach
Pears
Persimmon
Plum
Potato
Pumpkin
Quince
Rambutan
Rhubarb
Silverbeet
Spinach
Squash
Sweet potato
Tamarillo
Tomato
Banana
Cabbage
Kohlrabi
Mandarin
Okra
Passionfruit
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Apple
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Table 21.3:Vegetablesandfruitssensitivetotheripeningaffectsofethylenegas
Loss in preparation of vegetables and fruit
All vegetables and fruits will incur loss during preparation. Table 21.4 is a guide to the expected
loss for a range vegetables and fruits.
Table 21.4:Aguidetoexpectedlossinvegetablesandfruitsduringpreparation
Percentage loss
Remarks
Artichoke – globe
60
Discard the heart, or choke
Artichoke – Jerusalem
20–30
Peeling
Asparagus
20
Trimming
Beans – green, wax, French
12
Trimming
Beans – broad
66
Beetroot
30
Pomegranate
G
Shelling when mature
PA
Peeling
40
Untrimmed
25
Trimmed
8–25
Trimming
20
Trimming
20
Peeling
18
Trimming and de-seeding
Chilli pepper
10
Trimming
Cauliflower
20–50
Trimming
Celery
10
Trimming
Celeriac
15–20
Peeling and trimming
Corn
35–65
65% when cut from cob
Cucumber – long green
10
Peeling
Cucumber
50
Peeling and de-seeding
Eggplant
19
Long purple /suprême
Witlof
11
Trimming
Curley endive
25–35
Trimming
Fennel
30
Trimming
Garlic
10–20
Peeling
Ginger
10
Peeling
Horseradish
25
Peeling
Kohlrabi
25–30
Trimming and peeling
Leek
48
Trimming and peeling
Lettuce, all varieties
25–35
Trimming
Marrow – long white, green
30
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage, white or red
Carrots
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Capsicum
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Broccoli
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VEGETABLES
Percentage loss
Remarks
Mushrooms, button
5
Trimming stalks.
Okra
15–18
Trimming
Onions, white, brown
10
Peeling
Shallots
15
Peeling
Spring
25
Peeling
Parsley
15–30
Depending on variety
Parsnips
30
Peeling
Peas, green
60
Shelling
Peas, snow
5
Trimming
Potatoes, Kennebec or Sequoia
14
Hand peeled
Potatoes, Sebago or Coliban
30
Machine peeled
Potatoes, Pontiac or Exton
19
Peeling loss varies with variety of potato
Potatoes, new
5–10
Sweet potatoes
15–20
Pumpkin – butternut or Queensland blue
25
Radishes, round or long
37
Daikon
10–12
Spinach
30
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Item
Peeling
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Trimming
English trimmed
50
Silverbeet trimmed
25
Peeling
20–25
Peeling
35–65
Trim and remove sheath
10
Peeled
Tomatoes, concassée
40
Peeled and de-seeded
Turnip
25
Peeled
5
Top, tailed and peeled
50
Pick over and trim
8
Core /stem
14–22
Core /stem / parings
Squash
Swedes
Sweet corn
Tomatoes
Zucchini
Watercress
FRUIT
Apple
Apricot
8
Avocado
30
Stoned and peeled
Banana
30
Peeled
Carambola [Starfruit]
1
Cherries
8
Stemmed
12
Stemmed and stoned
Item
Percentage loss
Currants – red, black or white
1
Coconut
50
Date
14
Feijoa
10
Fig
3
Topped
15
If peeled
Gooseberry
1
Topped
Grapefruit
51
Skin and segmenting
Grape
5
Stemmed
35
Stemmed. seeded and skinned
Kiwi
10-15
Lychee
Macadamia nut
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Mandarin
ES
32
Rind
1
Seeds
43
Juice content
40
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Lemon
G
20
Shelled
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Guava
Remarks
70
Shelled
29
Peeled and segmented
Mango – green to ripe
25
ripe
46
Melons – honeydew
45
watermelon
55
Orange
26
Rind removed
40
Segmented
1
Seeded
48
Juice content (variable)
52
Rind, seeds and segmenting
Pawpaw
33
Passionfruit
55
Flesh 45%
Peach
13
Peeled, stone removed
Pear
23
Peeled and cored
Persimmon
24
Pineapple
45
Pistachio
52
Shelled
Plum
8
Stoned
Percentage loss
Remarks
Pomegranate
45
Quince
20
Peeled and cored
Rhubarb
10 -15
If purchased without leaves
50
If purchased with leaves
Strawberry
3
Hulled
Tamarillo
10
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Item
Vegetables
Root vegetables
Examples
Roots
Carrot, Parsnip, Swede, Beetroot,
Turnip, Radish, Celeriac
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Bulbs
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Sub-group
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There are two broad classifications – root
vegetables and green vegetables.
Tubers
times will vary depending on the variety of
vegetable and climatic conditions. Vegetables
stored wet can attract microbial growth,
leading to food spoilage and bad odours. They
should be washed just prior to preparation.
Potatoes should only be placed in a
coolroom when they have been prepared and
covered with water. Potatoes that are stored
at a cold temperature convert some starches
into sugar. This will cause premature browning
of the potatoes when frying. Potato skins may
turn green when exposed to light and these
areas must be pared back before cooking.
Onions should be stored away from foods
such as eggs, which can absorb strong odours.
All vegetables should be prepared as close
to service as possible, to avoid deterioration
in quality and nutritional value. As with all
kitchen commodities, vegetables should be
used on a first-in, first-out basis, and inferior
stock rejected or discarded.
G
Classifications of vegetables
for culinary purposes
Potato, Sweet Potato, Yam, Taro,
Jerusalem artichoke
Onion, Shallot, Garlic, Leek, Spring
Onion
With the exception of brushed potatoes, root
vegetables should be clean and free from soil.
They should be firm and snap on bending,
and should have smooth, unwrinkled skins.
Root vegetables should be graded to an even
shape and size, and should not display signs
of damage during harvesting or bruising from
handling. They should have good colour,
matching their variety.
Root vegetables should be stored in
their original packaging in a coolroom or a
cool, dark, dry storage area that has good
ventilation, for up to three months. Storage
NOTE:
Root vegetables that require boiling should be covered
with sufficient cold water to cover them throughout
the cooking process and brought to the boil. This will
ensure even cooking. Salt can be added to the water
if desired.
Examples
Leaves
Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Lettuce,
Spinach, Silverbeet, Witlof
Flowers
Broccoli, Broccolini, Broccoflower
Cauliflower, Globe Artichoke
Stems
Asparagus, Bamboo Shoots, Celery,
Fennel, Kohlrabi, Rhubarb
Legumes
French and Stringless beans, Broad
beans, Corn, Okra, Peas, Snow peas
Fruits*
Avocado, Cucumber, Capsicum,
Eggplant, Olive, Pumpkin, Squash,
Tomato, Zucchini
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Sub-group
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Green vegetables
could be accompanied by woody or thick stems.
They should be free of insects.
Stem vegetables should have unblemished,
brightly coloured surfaces. Any leaves or ferns
attached should be firm, not dry and of even
colour, not yellowing. Stems should snap
when bent.
For the legumes – beans should be straight
and have firm, brightly coloured flesh with
no blemishes. The tails should be firm, not
shrivelled, and they should snap when bent.
Large pods may indicate over-maturity. Corn
should have moist husks with a plump kernel
that is milky if punctured, and be free of
insects. Okra has a tender skin with soft ridges
and should not show signs of wilting.
Fruit vegetables should have firm, shiny
and brightly coloured skins. They should be
well shaped and even in size, and display
no evidence of soft areas or bruising. Fruit
vegetables should feel heavy for their size and
variety. Tomatoes are often picked in a green
but mature state, to allow for transportation
and distribution. This practice does affect the
flavour. Unripe tomatoes can be ripened at
room temperature for a few days and should
not be refrigerated.
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Trimmings from some root vegetables may
be kept for other purposes such as mirepoix,
stocks and soups; however, peelings should
only be used for composting. Avoid refreshing
boiled potatoes as they will absorb water. This
can have a negative effect on flavour and also
lead to sticking if they are to be fried later.
* There are many definitions of what constitutes a fruit, but
they are in simple terms the matured ovaries of a flower
that contain one or more seeds. Each of the examples above
develops from a flower attached to the plant.
Green vegetables have a shorter shelf life than
root vegetables and require a more controlled
temperature environment. Green vegetables
should be checked when received and stored
in a coolroom in the original packaging, or
kept covered. The coolroom should have a high
relative humidity to help reduce shrinkage and
keep the vegetables in peak condition.
Leaf vegetables should show no signs or
yellowing or drying and be of a deep even
colour. Leaves should be clean, crisp and not
wilted, and be free of dirt and insects.
Flowering vegetables should have tight,
compact heads and feel heavy for their size.
They should show no evidence of flowering,
which is an indication of over-maturity and
NOTE:
Green vegetables that require boiling should be started
in rapidly boiling water. The amount of water required
is approximately 10 times the weight of the vegetable;
this will ensure the water returns to the boil quickly.
Salt can be added to the water if desired.
If not required immediately, the vegetables
should be refreshed in cold or iced water to
arrest the cooking process, and then drained
and refrigerated. Do not leave vegetables sitting
in water once they have cooled, as this will
affect their taste and nutritional value.
•
•
•
•
Care should be taken to purchase wild
mushrooms only from reputable suppliers,
as many fungi-like mushrooms are
poisonous.
Mushrooms should not be washed but
wiped with a clean damp cloth.
Clean trimmings and peelings may be used
for stock.
Mushrooms should be firm and have a dry
surface. Slimy mushrooms should be avoided
as they are past their best. They should be
stored in the boxes or bags in which they
were delivered; storage in plastic containers
causes them to sweat. Mushrooms supply
dietary fibre and are a good source of several
important B group vitamins, especially niacin
and riboflavin.
Common mushrooms are available in three
grades, based on their level of growth.
Fungi
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•
Ensure cold water is used when soaking
pulses, otherwise they may ferment.
Gently simmer pulses. Excessive boiling can
toughen them.
To avoid causing flatulence, do not cook
pulses in the water in which they were
soaked.
•
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These are the dried seeds of a pod from a
legume, and include lentils, peas and beans.
Pulses are an important food group for
vegetarians because they have a high protein
content and are rich in essential amino acids.
Pulses should be clean and free of dust
or foreign materials. To prepare, rinse in cold
water and then cover with approximately three
times their weight in fresh cold water. Soak
overnight if possible. Drain and cover with
clean water and simmer until cooked. They can
then be finished according to the recipe.
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Pulses
Mushrooms may be cultivated or wild
harvested. Cultivated mushrooms include
the common white mushroom, oyster,
shiitake, enoki, shimeji, Swiss brown (the
button) or Portobello (the flat). Wild harvested
mushrooms generally have stronger flavours
and include varieties such as morel, pine,
chanterelle, cêpe, boletus and matsutake.
PA
Other vegetable categories
These are plants that do not posses chlorophyll
and include all mushrooms and truffles.
•
•
•
Buttons are young, small, tightly closed
mushrooms.
Cups are medium-sized mushrooms in
which the cap has started to open and some
of the gills on the underside can be seen.
Flats are cups which that expanded and
fully opened. All of the gills can be seen on
the underside.
Blacktruffles
Purchasing guidelines
Vegetables can be supplied in different ways, according to their intended use.
Advantages
Drawback
Fresh
Versatility
Seasonal dependency
Freshness
Limited shelf life
Peak quality
Requires particular storage conditions
Optimum taste and flavour
Variable quality and cost
ES
Supply condition
Labour-intensive preparation
Flexible presentation
Frozen
May be lacking in taste
Convenient
Soft texture
G
Non-seasonal
Standardised presentation
Long shelf life
Minimum storage space
Unsuitable for some restaurants and food
services
Consistent quality
Lacks natural colour
Economical cost
Unsuitable for some establishments
Ease of preparation, pulses excepted
Colour variations
Pulses, highly nutritional
Common texture – other than pulses
Long shelf life
Pulses have similar tastes
E
Freeze-dried or
dried
PA
Pre-prepared
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Ambient temperature storage.
Canned or bottled
Convenient
Colour
Pre-prepared
Texture
Consistent quality
Taste
Not affected by seasons
Presentation
Long shelf life
Application to establishment
Minimal storage space
Marinated
Large variety
Increased cost
Very convenient
Limited menu application
Not seasonal
Variations in taste and quality
Long shelf life
Pre-prepared
Minimal storage space
ES
Artichokes, Jerusalem
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Frozen vegetables are harvested, selected and
prepared at their peak. They are blanched and
then refreshed prior to being quick frozen.
Blanching helps to deactivate chemical and
enzymic activity and assists in the retention
of colour and vitamins. The quick-freezing
process avoids the formation of large ice
crystals that can damage food by rupturing cell
walls and resulting in soft or mushy texture
when thawed or cooked. The formation of ice
crystals occurs in the temperature range 0
and minus 5° Celsius. Quick freezing is only
effective when food takes less than 30 minutes
to pass through this temperature zone.
Individually quick-frozen food (or IQF)
is a process whereby each item remains
separate when frozen and packed. Providing
the food is stored and handled correctly, the
items will remain separate. Frozen food that
has clumped into a solid mass has probably
become defrosted and refrozen, and should be
rejected. With the exception of corn on the cob,
frozen vegetables should be stored at minus
18° Celsius. Frozen vegetables should not be
thawed prior to cooking.
The standard portion size of vegetable served
as an accompaniment to a main meal is 100
grams of prepared vegetable. This weight
is in addition to 100 grams of farinaceous
or starch, which in menu planning terms
includes potatoes. It is acceptable to serve a
mixture of different vegetables to make up this
weight. However, only one type of farinaceous
vegetable should be served.
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Frozen vegetables
Portion sizes
PA
Canned vegetables should be discarded if the
can is in any way dented, rusted or swollen.
The seals of bottled vegetables must be intact
at time of purchase and the liquids should not
be overly discoloured. In all cases other than
fresh, vegetables purchased must be used
within the stated use-by date.
Jerusalemartichokes
493
Boiled Jerusalem artichokes
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Jerusalem artichokes
300 g
1.25 kg
Vinegar (2% of cooking liquid)
10 mL
20 mL
Water
500 mL
1L
Béchamel sauce (Recipe XX)
320 mL
750 mL
Lemon juice
10 mL
20 mL
1 Thoroughly wash the artichokes.
G
Procedure
ES
4 PORTIONS
PA
2 Put them in a saucepan and barely cover with water.
3 Add the vinegar (20 millilitres per litre) and salt and cook until tender, about 30
minutes boiling.
4 Drain and rub off the skins. Wash the artichokes clean.
5 Reheat in boiling salted water for 5 minutes.
E
6 Drain well and dress on hot serving dishes.
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7 Add the lemon juice to the hot Béchamel sauce and use it to mask the
artichokes.
NOTES
These artichokes may be used to make a soup similar to cream of celery. They may
also be served fried and gratinated, prepared in a similar way to potatoes.
Artichokes, globe
They are usually purplish with a green,
thistle-like flower bud. Select tight, undamaged
heads. Artichokes are rich in iodine, so cut surfaces
turn black quickly. To prevent this, brush cut
surfaces with lemon juice.
Globeartichoke
Artichokes vinaigrette
Boiled, served cold
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Globe artichokes
2
10
Lemon juice
5 mL
25 mL
Vinaigrette dressing (Recipe XX)
40 mL
150 mL
ES
2 PORTIONS
Procedure
G
1 Using scissors, trim off the tips of the outer petals. Using a sharp knife, cut off
the top third of the petals and trim off the stalk very close to the base.
PA
2 Brush cut surfaces with lemon juice before they discolour.
3 Place into boiling salted water and cook for 15–20 minutes or until bottom part
is just tender.
4 Drain and refresh under cold water. Remove the centre leaves and the fibrous
choke.
NOTES
E
5 Dress onto cold serving dishes and serve vinaigrette dressing separately.
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494
For certain garnishes and for cold buffet work, artichoke bottoms or hearts (with all
petals removed) are available canned.
East Asian greens
Most Asian greens are cultivated species of the cabbage family. Their texture is
crisp and they are an excellent source of vitamins and minerals. Many can be eaten
raw in salads but can also be prepared as part of stir-fried and noodle dishes.
Chinese cabbage is similar in shape to a cos lettuce; it has an elongated, round
shape with a firm heart and crinkled leaves.
Bok choy has tall, very white stalks and dark green leaves.
Chinesecabbage(Wombok)
Bokchoy
Babychoysum
Stir-fried pak choy and shiitake mushrooms
G
495
ES
Gai choy has green stalks and crinkled leaves.
Pak choy is identified as a small bunch of thick, flat stems and upright, flat
green leaves suitable to be used raw in salads. A number of variations are available;
they acquire different names depending on the colour of the stems – joi choy,
Shanghai choy, tendergreen choy.
Pak choy sum has white leaf stems with yellow flowers.
Rosette pak choy resembles a large bunch of spinach with oval, dark-green,
shiny leaves.
Komatsuna is a kind of spinach.
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
450 g
1.1 kg
180 g
450 g
15 mL
40 mL
Sesame oil
15 mL
40 mL
Garlic, finely chopped
1 clove
3 cloves
Ginger, finely chopped
1g
3g
Oyster sauce
120 mL
300 mL
Chillies, finely chopped
1
3
Salt
to taste
to taste
Pak choy
Shiitake mushrooms
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Vegetable oil
PA
4 PORTIONS
Procedure
1 Trim, wash and cut the pak choy in slices, leaves included. Wash the
mushrooms, trim the stems and cut in 1-centimetre thick slices.
2 Heat the oil in a wok or thick saucepan, add the garlic, chilli and ginger. Stir-fry
quickly, then add the pak choy and mushrooms and stir-fry for 1 minute.
3 Add the oyster sauce and stir-fry for a further 2 minutes, until all the ingredients
are nearly tender. Serve immediately.
Asparagus
The most common variety of asparagus is white with green tips. It is not well
graded for size, so bundles with a minimum of fat or very thin stems should be
selected. Indicators of quality are fresh-picked appearance (look for recently
cut stems), absence of wilting and no broken buds. Stalks should snap cleanly
when bent.
ES
Served hot or cold
PA
Asparagus hollandaise
QUANTITIES (FOR ENTRÉE)
10 PORTIONS
600 g
1.5 kg
200 mL
500 mL
E
Asparagus
4 PORTIONS
Hollandaise sauce (Recipe XX)
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496
Greenandyellowstringlessbeans
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Whiteandgreenasparagus
Procedure
1 Scrape off the coarse green buds with the back of a knife. Peel the white part
thinly with a vegetable peeler, taking care not to damage the green tip.
2 Wash well and tie in two places to make bundles of about 12–18 pieces,
keeping the green tips more or less in line.
3 Cut off the white stalks to an even length.
4 Place into boiling salted water and simmer for 5–8 minutes. Do not overcook.
5 Drain well on a clean cloth.
6 Dress onto hot serving dishes and serve hollandaise sauce separately.
7 If the asparagus is to be served cold, refresh it under cold water and drain
well. Chill it and dress on cold serving dishes, with hollandaise sauce served
separately as before.
NOTES
If this is served as a separate course, guests will eat it with their fingers. Finger
bowls or small hot towels will be required.
Asparagus may also be served with melted or nut butter (Recipe xx), and as a garnish
for most meats and fish.
For soup, follow the directions for creams or velouté.
Beans
497
Fresh French beans
ES
A large variety of beans are served as vegetables, and they may be classified as
either fresh or dried.
Fresh beans include French or stringless (green), purple (green when cooked),
butter, white and broad beans. Most varieties are available frozen (see frozen
vegetables, above).
Dried beans include cannellini, haricot and red kidney beans.
QUANTITIES
300 g
800 g
G
10 PORTIONS
PA
French beans
Procedure:
4 PORTIONS
1 Top and tail the beans by pinching off the stems and tips. Wash them. Slice the
beans through a bean slicer or cross cut into pieces 5 centimetres long.
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2 Place the beans in well-salted, boiling water and cook rapidly without a cover for
6–10 minutes. They must still be crisp when drained from the water if they are to
be held in the hot press, where they may finish cooking.
3 Drain the beans well and serve as required, or refresh and keep cool for à la
carte service.
NOTES
If the beans are to be held for later service à la carte, cook them only to the stage
of being still quite crisp. Refresh them until they are cold and keep in a cool place.
To finish cooking, place the number of portions ordered by the service staff into
a conical strainer and place in a quantity of rapidly boiling salted water to finish
cooking (2–3 minutes). Drain well and dress on a hot serving dish. Brush lightly with
melted butter, or garnish according to the menu.
Frenchbeans
Broadbeans
Broad beans
498
Fresh broad beans Béchamel
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Broad beans
600 g
1.5 kg
Butter (if desired)
20 g
50 g
ES
4 PORTIONS
or
150 mL
Parsley, chopped
to garnish
to garnish
PA
Procedure
400 mL
G
1 Pod the beans.
2 Put them in a saucepan, just cover with boiling water and cook for 10 minutes.
3 Add salt and continue to cook until just tender.
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NOTES:
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4 Drain and serve.
Beans may be improved by the addition of melted butter, which should be poured
over the beans and stirred in without breaking them up. Alternatively, combine the
beans with a good Béchamel sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
499
Dried beans for salads
QUANTITIES
4 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
Dried beans, as selected
100 g
240 g
Onion, chopped
40 g
100 g
Procedure
1 Wash the beans. Put them in a basin and cover with plenty of cold water. Leave
to soak overnight.
2 Drain and pour into a saucepan. Cover with cold water, add onion and bring to
boil.
3 Simmer for 2 hours or until tender but not broken up.
4 Add salt after 90 minutes of cooking.
5 Strain the beans and refresh. Drain well.
6 Store in a refrigerator until required.
ES
Dhal
PA
500
G
Fromlefttoright:(firstrow)blackbeans,yellowsplitpeas,??;secondrowbroadbeans,greenlentils,haricotbeans;third
rowbrownlentils,redlentils,??;fourthrowredkidneybeans,??,chickpeas
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
50 g
125 g
50 g
125 g
150 g
375 g
Onions – diced
100 g
250 g
Ginger – paste
5g
12 g
Garlic – paste
5g
12 g
Green chillies
5g
12 g
Coriander leaves – chopped
10 g
25 g
Lemon juice
15 mL
40 mL
Oil
50 mL
125 mL
Salt
to taste
to taste
Turmeric powder
3g
8g
Mustard seeds
3g
8g
Cumin seeds
3g
8g
Red chilli – small, chopped
4
10
Curry leaves
3g
8g
Garlic – cloves, chopped
5
12
Ghee
40 g
100 g
Green lentils
Brown lentils
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Yellow split peas
E
4 PORTIONS
For Baghar – tempering
Procedure
1 Take half the yellow split peas and soak in water for 30 minutes.
2 Boil in just enough water for the lentils to get almost tender. Keep aside.
3 Boil all the other pulses together with salt and turmeric. When cooked, mash
them lightly.
4 Heat the oil and fry the onions until golden brown.
5 Add the ginger and garlic paste and fry for one minute.
ES
6 Now add the boiled and mashed pulses and a little water. When the pulses
begin to boil, add the separately boiled yellow split peas, green chillies,
coriander and lemon juice.
G
7 For the tempering, heat the ghee in a pan. Add the mustard and cumin seeds,
chopped red chillies, garlic cloves and curry leaves.
Bean sprouts
PA
8 When the mustard and cumin seeds start crackling, pour over the lentils and
serve hot.
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These must be fresh, in which case they will be quite crisp and white with bright
yellow tips. The stems will not be dark, dried or withered. When received into
store, the plastic bags must be open to the air, otherwise the shoots will sweat
and go bad quickly.
Prepare bean shoots by washing in cold water and allowing to drain well.
Use in salads or add to Chinese dishes just before serving.
Beetroot
Select those with fresh, unblemished skins and a tuft of fresh leaf stalks. Avoid
very large or soft bulbs and those showing a regrowth of young leaves, as they
are likely to be fibrous.
Beetroot should be washed and cooked with 3 centimetres of leaf stalk and
the rootlet left on them. If these are cut, the beets will bleed and the colour will
be unappetising. They are best cooked in a pressure steamer and require 20–30
minutes at 35 kilopascals. Test with a skewer to see if they are cooked. When
cooked, the skin will rub off.
Slice and pickle the cooked beetroots, or serve hot as a vegetable with melted
butter. Alternatively, they can be re-boiled in boiling, salted, vinegared water
until tender.
Beansprouts
Beetroot
ES
Broccoli
Broccolini
PA
G
Broccoli
E
Select thin, short-stemmed broccoli with firm, dark purplish-green flower buds.
Avoid broccoli showing signs of yellow flowers. This can happen quickly at warm
temperatures.
Broccoli with hollow stems indicate prolonged storage and the stems will be
tough when cooked. Avoid using bicarbonate of soda to retain the colour when
cooking broccoli or other green vegetables, as this destroys nutritional content.
Broccoli with melted butter
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501
QUANTITIES
4 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
Broccoli
500 g
1 kg
Butter, melted
20 g
50 g
Procedure
1 Remove the coarse leaves and woody stalks. Wash well, taking care not to
damage the tips.
2 Cook in a saucepan in well-salted boiling water for about 10 minutes or until just
a little crispness is left. Do not cover with a lid.
3 Arrange on hot serving dishes and pour over a little melted butter. Use just
enough butter to glisten; do not make it oily.
NOTES
Hollandaise sauce (Recipe xx) may be served instead of butter.
Brussels sprouts
The best sprouts are small, tight, even-sized and dark green in colour. Large ones
that are blown out with loose leaves are old and do not look attractive when
cooked. Sprouts with pale-green or yellowed leaves are usually stale.
QUANTITIES
4 PORTIONS
Butter
15 g
Procedure
900 g
25 g
Brusselssprouts
G
350 g
10 PORTIONS
PA
Brussels sprouts
ES
Buttered Brussels sprouts
1 Remove the outer discoloured leaves. Trim the stalk, and cut across the end to
a depth of about 5 millimetres to assist in even cooking.
2 Wash well in salted water and drain.
E
3 Put the sprouts into boiling salted water and cook quickly with the lid off until
they are just tender. Drain well.
4 Heat some butter in a pan. Add the sprouts and toss them quickly.
5 Season and serve as soon as possible.
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Variation
At step 4, sauté brunoise of bacon (10 grams per serve), chopped onions (10
grams per serve) until coloured, then add to the cooked sprouts, season and serve.
Button squash
Button squash is available with pale green or yellow skin. Premium-quality squash
is even-sized, with glossy, unblemished skins.
Procedure
1 Lightly top and tail; leave whole if small.
2 Larger squashes may be sliced on a slant into two or four pieces.
3 Cook as for zucchini (Recipe XX).
Buttonsquash
ES
Cabbage
Whitecabbage
G
Savoycabbage
•
•
•
PA
Three varieties of cabbage are generally available:
white cabbage, which is commonly used for coleslaw
green savoy and spring cabbages
red cabbage.
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Several varieties of Chinese cabbage are becoming more readily available. Select
cabbages that appear freshly cut, with no strong odour or yellowing leaves.
503
Boiled cabbage
QUANTITIES
4 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
White, green or spring cabbage
450 g
1.25 kg
Butter
20 g
50 g
Procedure
1 Remove the outside leaves and coarse stalk. Cut cabbage into quarters and
remove the core.
2 Slice evenly 2–3 millimetres thick. Wash well and drain.
3 Place in a saucepan with a small quantity of boiling salted water and cook for 10
minutes.
4 Drain in a colander. Add melted butter and season with white pepper.
5 Dress on hot serving dishes.
NOTES:
For special presentation, the outside leaves of the cabbage may be kept whole and
cooked separately. Then lay the leaves on serving plates and pile cooked cabbage
onto the leaves; cover with more outside leaves and press another plate on top.
When ready to serve, remove the top plate, brush the leaves with butter and cut into
wedges, one for each portion.
ES
The cabbage may be simmered in milk instead of water, but special care must be
taken to avoid burning.
Variations
PA
G
Chicken breasts may be prepared ‘Kiev style’ using the following fillings:
• Sliced avocado pear
• Camembert, laying 3 segments, overlapping, along the breast
• Spinach, using leaf spinach (recipe 560)
• Banana, using the following procedure
Red cabbage
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504
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Red cabbage
QUANTITIES
4 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
Onions, finely sliced
10 g
25 g
Lard
15 g
40 g
Red cabbage
400 g
1.1 kg
Red wine
40 mL
100 mL
Vinegar
10 mL
25 mL
Bayleaf
piece
1
Cloves
3
1g
Sugar
10 g
25 g
Apples, peeled, cored and thinly
sliced
50 g
150 g
Procedure
1 Clean, core and shred the red cabbage.
2 Melt the lard in a saucepan and sweat the onions.
3 Add the cabbage. Sweat for 3–4 minutes.
4 Add the wine, half the vinegar, bayleaf, cloves, sugar, seasoning and apples.
Redcabbage
5 Cover and cook slowly on top of the range until tender, 1–11 hours.
6 Just before service, add the rest of the vinegar to improve the colour.
7 Serve as soon as possible while still slightly crisp.
NOTES
Do not cook red cabbage in aluminium utensils as the colour of the cabbage will be
affected.
ES
This dish may be thickened very lightly with a little modified starch blended with
cold water, if desired.
Capsicum
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PA
G
Capsicums should be shiny and firm if they are fresh. Soft spots or dullness are
indicators of poor quality.
Capsicums may be peeled by splitting into quarters lengthwise, brushing with
oil and placing on trays under the salamander. The skin will blister and can be
rubbed off. Alternatively, thoroughly brush the skins with oil and place in a hot
oven until the skins blacken. Remove and place into a freezer bag and allow the
capsicum to sweat. The skins can then easily be removed. This procedure is used
only for special dishes.
Yellow,red,orangeandgreencapsicums
Stuffed capsicums
QUANTITIES
Capsicums, green
4 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
2 large or
700 g
4 small (250 g)
5 mL
10 mL
Butter
10 g
10 g
Onions, sliced
40 g
Mushrooms, caps grade, sliced
60 g
Rice pilaf (Recipe XX)
200 g
Ham, chopped (optional)
50 g
Brown stock
200 mL
Parsley, chopped
100 g
150 g
G
500 g
100 g
500 mL
PA
Tomato paste
ES
Oil
20 g
50 g
for garnish
for garnish
E
Procedure
1 Wash the capsicums. If large, cut off the stem and split lengthwise. If small, cut
the top to make a lid. Remove the seeds and pith.
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505
2 Blanch for 2 minutes, refresh and drain well.
3 Melt the butter and oil in a frying pan and sweat the onions.
4 Add the mushrooms and cook for 3 minutes.
5 Pour off any excess fat and add the rice pilaf and ham. Mix well and fill the
capsicums.
6 Place the capsicums in a baking dish. Pour the hot stock, blended with the
tomato paste, around the capsicums.
7 Bake at 170° Celsius for 25–30 minutes.
8 Sprinkle with chopped parsley and dress on hot serving dishes.
ES
Carrots
Largecarrots
G
Baby,or‘Dutch’,carrots
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PL
E
PA
Two classes of carrots are available. Those that are sold in bags by weight are grown
quickly in sandy soil. They are light in colour and flavour, and cook quickly. Other
carrots are sold in bunches, sometimes as baby carrots or mature carrots with the
tops on. These take longer to mature, have better colour and flavour and remain
firm when cooked. Select these for braised dishes with carrots in the garnish.
Old carrots without tops are only suitable for stocks and mirepoix. Avoid carrots
that are pliable or show signs of withering.
506
Buttered carrots
QUANTITIES
4 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
Carrots, tops removed
300 g
800 g
Butter, melted
10 g
20 g
Parsley, chopped
5g
15 g
Procedure
1 Peel the carrots and wash them.
2 Cut into even-sized pieces about 4 centimetres long.
3 Place in cold, salted water and bring to boil with the lid on. Cook for 20 minutes
or until just tender.
4 Drain well and toss in melted butter.
5 Dress on hot serving dishes and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Large-quantity procedure
1 Carrots may be steamed and finished with melted butter or white sauce, or
shaken in a honey glaze. See variations.
Variations
507
Honey-glazed carrots
Procedure
1 Proceed as for boiled carrots, but barely cover with water and use only a trace
of salt.
ES
2 Add the butter to the water and 10 grams of honey for four portions.
3 Cook with the lid on for 10 minutes. Then remove the lid and finish cooking,
allowing the water to boil away.
4 When the carrots are just cooked, toss them in the remaining liquid syrup.
PA
NOTE:
G
5 Dress on hot serving dishes and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
If carrots are cooked before the liquid is reduced to a syrup, remove the carrots and
keep warm. Reduce the liquid and then quickly toss the carrots in the syrup. Onions,
shallots, turnips and parsnips may be treated in the same manner.
E
Carrots in a cream sauce
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508
Procedure
1 Combine plain boiled carrots with a béchamel sauce finished with cream.
2 Take care to avoid breaking up the carrots when adding the sauce.
3 For four portions, use 180 millilitres of cream sauce; for 10 portions 450
millilitres will be required.
Cauliflower
Select tight white heads that are protected by a cover of
outer leaves. The condition of the outer leaves is a good
indication of freshness. Avoid loose heads or those showing
signs of yellowing. Stale cauliflower has a strong smell.
Cauliflower
509
Cauliflower with cream sauce
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Cauliflower, heads
1 small
2 small
160 mL
400 mL
Cream
20 mL
50 mL
ES
4 PORTIONS
Procedure
G
1 Cut off the leaves and outer stems of the cauliflower. Hollow out the centre stalk
to aid even cooking.
PA
2 Place into salted boiling water and cook with the lid on until just tender (10–15
minutes).
3 Refresh under cold water until cool.
4 Divide the cauliflower into portions, and when required for service reheat in
boiling salted water.
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5 Heat the Béchamel sauce and stir in the cream. Correct the consistency with
cauliflower water if required. Strain and correct the seasoning.
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6 Dress the cauliflower onto hot serving dishes and nap with sauce.
NOTE:
To keep the cauliflower white, add lemon juice to the boiling water.
Variations
510
Cauliflower mornay
Procedure
1 Follow the procedure above, but use mornay sauce (Recipe XX) instead of
cream sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and brown before serving.
2 Avoid delay when serving this vegetable as the sauce tends to dry out and spoil.
NOTE:
If carrots are cooked before the liquid is reduced to a syrup, remove the carrots and
keep warm. Reduce the liquid and then quickly toss the carrots in the syrup. Onions,
shallots, turnips and parsnips may be treated in the same manner.
Celeriac
This is a bulbous root with a similar flavour to celery. It has spindly, celery-like
stalks and leaves. Avoid overly large celeriac as the centres can be soft and spongy.
To prepare celeriac, thoroughly wash and peel the roots. It may then be cut into
dice and used in a Waldorf salad or cut into batons and cooked as follows.
Creamed celeriac
Procedure
1 Simmer in white stock with a peeled onion.
ES
511
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2 When the celeriac is tender remove the onion, strain the stock and reduce it.
Add a little cream or demi-glaçe. Check the seasoning.
Celeriac
NOTE:
PA
3 Dress the celeriac on hot serving dishes and pour the sauce over.
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Celery
E
Celeriac discolours rapidly when cut, so prepare it as close as possible to serving.
Place it in cold water when peeled to prevent discolouration.
Celery used to be available in much whiter condition than it is today, because
growers used to shield the stalks from sunlight during the growing period. The best
celery is medium-sized, lightish green with a fresh, leafy head. The inner stalks
should be young and small. A coarse centre stalk indicates that the plant is running
to seed.
As far as good costing will allow, use the outer stalks for stock, bouquet garni
and mirepoix, reserving the inner parts for salads and garnishes.
512
Celery with cream sauce
This is prepared in the same way as carrots in cream sauce (Recipe XX).
Celery
513
Braised celery
Procedure
1 If possible, select a small celery and keep the base intact. Cut into lengths
about 8 centimetres long and cut the base lengthwise into two or four pieces,
according to size. Put the leaves and trimming aside for stock.
2 Wash thoroughly. Blanch well and refresh.
ES
3 Butter a braising pan and lay the celery out in portions, keeping the pieces
close together.
4 Pour over hot basic brown sauce (Recipe XX), and cover with cooking foil.
5 Place in the oven at 175° Celsius and braise for half an hour.
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6 Dress on hot serving dishes and nap with a little jus-lié (Recipe XX).
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Chokos
Chokos should be a good green colour with no signs of shrivelling.
Chokos with peanut sauce
Choko
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QUANTITIES
2 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
Chokos
2 medium
1.5 kg
Velouté (Recipe XX)
100 mL
250 mL
Milk
50 mL
100 mL
Peanut butter
30 g
75 g
Procedure
1 Peel the chokos under running water, as they bleed a sticky white substance
when cut.
2 Cut in half and remove the seed. Cut into pieces of even size for good
presentation and even cooking time.
3 Cook in boiling salted water for 15 minutes or until just tender.
4 Drain and keep hot.
5 Make a sauce by heating the velouté and milk. Skim.
6 Add the peanut butter and nap half of each portion with the sauce.
Chokos with garlic and cheese
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Chokos
300 g
800 g
Butter or margarine
20 g
50 g
Garlic, crushed
1 clove
2 cloves
Cheese, grated parmesan
60 g
150 g
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4 PORTIONS
Procedure
2 Blanch well and refresh. Cut into 2-centimetre dice.
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1 Peel the chokos under running water. Cut in half and remove the seeds.
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3 Heat the butter in a frying pan and sauté the chokos.
4 Add the garlic and two-thirds of the cheese.
5 Turn out into a gratin dish; sprinkle the rest of the cheese over the top and
brown under a salamander.
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Corn on the cob – see Sweet corn
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Cucumbers
Food processors use small pickling cucumbers. Salad cucumbers should be a glossy
dark green and of medium size. Irregular-shaped, seedless cucumbers are also
available, as are the long English variety.
They are served raw – peeled or cannelled, and thinly sliced.
Eggplant (aubergine)
Eggplants are purple to black in colour, round or oval in
shape. When fresh they are firm and glossy with greenish
sepal leaves. Avoid bruised, wrinkled or withered fruit.
Large or older eggplants may be disgorged. This is a
process of scoring the flesh and salting it for a period
of time. The salt helps draw bitter flavours from the fruit.
Peeled or cut eggplant must be kept in water and lemon
juice prior to cooking to prevent discolouration.
Eggplant
516
Stuffed eggplant
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Eggplant (approximate weights)
1 × 220 g
5 × 220 g
Butter
20 g
100 g
Onions, finely chopped
20 g
100 g
Mushrooms, cut small
80 g
400 g
50 g
Parsley, chopped
2g
Demi-glaçe (Recipe XX)
40 mL
200 mL
10 g
50 g
Procedure
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Grated cheese
Breadcrumbs, fresh
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2 PORTIONS
10 g
250 g
10 g
50 g
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1 Wash the eggplant and remove the stalk and sepal (top) leaves. Cut in half
lengthwise.
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2 On the flat surface cut a line around the eggplant about 5 millimetres in from the
edge, then crisscross the centre so as to aid the removal of the pulp when it is
cooked.
3 Place on an ovenproof dish, brush with oil and bake in an oven at 175° Celsius
until soft, about 15 minutes.
4 Melt the butter in a saucepan and sweat the onion. Add the mushrooms and
cook for 4 minutes.
5 Scoop out the centre of the eggplant, taking care not to damage the skin. Chop
the pulp a little and add it to the onions and mushrooms.
6 Add the tomato concassé and half the demi-glaçe.
7 Heat the mixture, adding more demi-glaçe if necessary to make a firm but not
stiff mixture. Correct the seasoning.
8 Place the mixture in the eggplant skin, heaping it up in the centre.
9 Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and cheese and gratinate in an oven at 200° Celsius.
Variation
Eggplant may also be stuffed with:
1 Rice pilaf (Recipe XX) and cooked lamb. Season with garlic and cayenne
pepper, bind the mixture with egg yolk. Proceed as above, but leave out the
mushrooms, tomato concassé and demi-glaçe.
2 Chopped cooked chicken and tongue. Proceed as above, but leave out the
tomatoes and substitute suprême sauce (Recipe XX) for demi-glaçe.
Fried eggplant
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Eggplant
450 g
1.2 kg
Milk
50 mL
100 mL
Flour
80 g
250 g
Procedure
1 Cut off the stalk and sepal leaves and wash the fruit well.
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4 PORTIONS
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2 Slice into rounds 5 millimetres thick and spread out on a tray.
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3 Sprinkle with salt and allow to stand for 10 minutes to draw out excess water.
Wash well and allow to drain.
4 Pass the slices through the milk and flour and deep-fry at 175° Celsius, using a
frying basket.
5 When golden brown, remove from the frier and drain.
NOTE
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6 Sprinkle with salt and serve at once.
The eggplant may be passed through batter and served as fritters.
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Variation
At step 3 grill the slices on a chargrill or under the salamander. Brush with a little oil.
Fennel
Fresh fennel has green tips where the stalks have been cut, and some green, fernlike leaves. The bulb is heavy and firm. Select sizes that will cut into two or four
portions from one bulb.
Procedure
1 Prepare the fennel by trimming the base and cutting off the stalks close to the
bulb. Wash well.
2 Blanch for 10 minutes and refresh. Follow the procedure for braised celery
(Recipe XX).
Fennel
Kohlrabi
This vegetable is similar to a white turnip, but the leaf stalks grow from around the
bulb rather than from a crown.
518
Kohlrabi in butter sauce
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Kohlrabi
400 g
1 kg
Butter
50 g
100 g
Salt
5g
Procedure
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40 g
to garnish
to garnish
1 Wash the kohlrabi and peel thickly to remove the skin.
2 Cut kohlrabi into 1-centimetre dice.
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3 Put it in a saucepan together with butter, salt, sugar and 100 millilitres of water.
4 Bring to boil and simmer for 15 minutes or until tender, allowing the water to
evaporate.
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Kohlrabi
10 g
15 g
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Sugar
Parsley, chopped
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4 PORTIONS
5 Lift out the kohlrabi with a perforated spoon and keep hot, or strain the cooking
liquor into another pan.
6 Reduce the liquid by half to make a sauce.
7 Dress the vegetable on hot serving dishes and pour over the sauce. Sprinkle
with chopped parsley and serve.
Leeks
Leeks are widely used in European
recipes but are not available in
Australia for at least 5 months of the
year. While the flavour is somewhat
different, onions have been substituted
for leeks in this book.
Fresh leeks have fresh-looking
rootlets and green outer leaves that
yellow and wither when old.
Leeks
Braised leeks with ham
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Leeks
350 g
900 g
Ham, boneless round
8 slices
20 slices
Tomato sauce (Recipe XX)
400 mL
1L
Parsley, chopped
for garnish
for garnish
Procedure
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4 PORTIONS
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1 Cut the roots off the leeks and remove the outer leaves. Cut off some of the
green top so as to leave about 18 centimetres. (Wash this green part and use it
for stock, consommé etc.).
2 Split the top half of the leek down the centre and wash under running water to
clean out any particles of soil.
3 Blanch the leeks in salted water for 5 minutes. Refresh and drain well.
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4 Cut large leeks in half, leave small ones whole. Fold over the top to make even
lengths of about 9 cm.
5 Fold in the edges of the sliced ham to the same width and roll a leek in
each slice.
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6 Butter a braising pan just large enough to hold the leeks neatly and place them
in the pan.
7 Pour the hot tomato sauce over and cover with foil.
8 Braise in an oven at 175° Celsius for 30 minutes.
9 Dress on hot serving dishes or serve in the braising dish. Sprinkle with
chopped parsley.
Variation
Procedure
1 Proceed as above but use a Béchamel sauce, or half Béchamel and half leek
velouté instead of the tomato sauce.
2 Finish with breadcrumbs and grated cheese.
520
Braised leeks Provençale
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Leeks, cleaned (white part only)
400 g
1 kg
Olive oil
25 mL
60 mL
300 g
750 g
Garlic, chopped fine
1 clove
3 cloves
Salt and pepper
to taste
to taste
Sultanas
40 g
100 g
Vinegar
30 mL
80 mL
4g
10 g
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4 PORTIONS
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Sugar
Basil, chopped
a few leaves
Procedure
¼ bunch
1 Fry the white leeks in hot oil until slightly coloured.
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2 Transfer the leeks to a deep braising pan, add the remaining ingredients,
cover with a lid and allow to simmer on top of the stove or place in an oven at
180° Celsius for 30 minutes.
3 Remove the lid and continue cooking until the sauce is reduced to coating
consistency and the leeks are cooked through. Serve hot or cold.
NOTES:
Celery, cabbage, fennel, onions or witlof may be used in this recipe.
Black olives (4–5 per serve) could be added for a different finish.
Lettuce – salad greens
Lettuce must be freshly cut. If the outside leaves are heavily trimmed, it is likely
to be old stock. Lettuce that is not properly stored is subject to sweating, causing
a brown rot on the edges of the leaves. Mignonette lettuce has very tender leaves
with reddish-brown edges. It does not have a firm heart, and is sometimes sold by
weight. Very little trimming of this lettuce should be necessary.
Prepare the lettuce by trimming off the outside leaves. Separate the other leaves
and wash in a clean sink of cold water. Remove leaves from the water, shake dry
and allow to drain in a colander in the refrigerator until required. Do not soak in
water for longer than is necessary to wash the lettuce.
Mignonettelettuce
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Butterhead, mignonette and royal
red have small heads and soft,
loose leaves.
Coslettuce
Cos has elongated, crisp leaves in a
tight bunch.
Endive has tough green outer leaves
and a pale green/yellow heart. The
leaves have a bitter taste and for this
reason it is often cooked.
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Arugula or rocket leaves are
strong in flavour, and make a good
addition to a bland salad mixture.
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Rocket
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Iceberglettuce
Iceberg is the most common
lettuce, with a round crisp head
and a tightly packed heart.
Oakleaflettuce–redandgreen
Oakleaf, red coral and lollo verde have frilled, soft leaves.
Radicchio
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Watercress
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Watercress has a mild taste, is pleasant to
eat and is a good addition to any salad.
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Radicchio is red to pink in colour, and
has highly decorative leaves that are
slightly bitter.
Butterlettuce
Witlof is a shoot that has white, very compact leaves. It has a bitter taste and is used
sparingly in salads (see page XX).
Other salad items include butter lettuce, mizuna leaves, dandelion, young spinach,
lambs’ lettuce (also called mâche or corn lettuce), nasturtium and sprouting seeds such
as mustard cress, alfalfa, bean and pea sprouts.
Mushrooms and fungi
There are hundreds of varieties of fungi, some of which are poisonous. Edible fungi
are generally known as mushrooms. The common ones are now cultivated but may be
harvested from the wild. A truly versatile food, they can be used raw in salads or cooked
in combination with other ingredients in pies, sauces, soups and stuffings, with meat,
poultry, fish and game. They may also be served as hors d’oeuvre and as a vegetable in
their own right.
Buttonmushrooms
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Enokimushrooms
Shiitakemushrooms
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Oystermushrooms
Portobellomushrooms
Cepes
Morels
521
To cook mushrooms
Preparation
1 Unless they are old, cultivated mushrooms do not require peeling. Trim the stem
and wash in a basin of cold water. Drain. Keep the trimmings for stock or jus-lié.
2 For some recipes it is necessary to sauté the mushrooms lightly in butter. If they
are to be poached and kept white, proceed as follows.
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Procedure
1 Wash, trim and slice the mushrooms and put them in a saucepan. Add just
enough cold water to barely cover them.
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2 Season lightly with salt and add 5 grams of butter and 5 millilitres of lemon juice
for every 200 grams of mushrooms.
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3 Bring quickly to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes.
4 Remove from the heat, drain and use as required. If not required immediately,
leave in the cooking liquor and cool rapidly.
NOTE
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Keep the cooking liquor for flavouring or stock.
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Okra
The best fresh okra consists of young, even-sized pods with evidence of freshly cut
stems. Okra is also available canned. It is the prime ingredient of gumbo soup.
Okra
Okra with tomatoes
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Okra
250 g
550 g
Onions, sliced
80 g
200 g
Butter
30 g
50 g
Tomato concassé, cut large
(Recipe XX)
250 g
Paprika
trace
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4 PORTIONS
500 g
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trace
Procedure
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1 Cut off the sharp ends of the pods and wash the okra.
2 Set to cook in a saucepan of boiling water with a little salt until just tender. Strain
off the water and allow to drain.
3 Sweat the onion in butter. Add the paprika, then the okra and tomatoes.
4 Season lightly with salt and continue to cook for about 10 minutes.
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5 Dress on hot serving dishes and serve.
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Onions
Common varieties of onions widely used in cooking include brown, white, red
(purple Spanish) and spring onions, along with chives and shallots.
Brown onions are most plentiful and are used in the recipes in this text. Bestquality are those of even size with clear brown skins. Inferior-quality onions show
signs of mildew under the skin and are greenish white.
White onions have green tops and do not keep well. They are preferred for
braising and baking because they are milder than brown onions.
Purple Spanish (or red) onions are larger than brown onions and have a
similar flavour. Supply is limited and they are usually more expensive.
Spring onions have a small bulb with long green stems. They are used in
salads, for garnishing and in Chinese dishes.
Chives are used in salads and as a garnish for soups. They are usually cut
about 5 millimetres long with scissors. Also available freeze-dried.
Shallots are small brown bulbs that grow in a similar way to garlic. When
peeled they have a purplish appearance. As they are not always available, brown
onion is usually substituted in recipes calling for shallots.
Brown,whiteandred
onionsandshallots
Springonions
Fruit
Classification of fruit for culinary purposes
Example
Hard
Apple, Pear, Quince
Soft
Blackberry, Blueberry, Cranberry, Raspberry, Strawberry, Blackcurrant, Redcurrant
Stone
Apricot, Cherry, Nectarine, Peach, Plum
Citrus
Grapefruit, Kumquat, Lemon, Lime, Mandarin, Orange, Tangerine, Tangelo
Tropical
Banana, Carambola (Starfruit), Coconut, Date, Dragonfruit, Durian, Guava, Lychee,
Mango, Papaya, Persimmon, Pineapple
Vine
Grape, Kiwifruit, Melon, Passionfruit
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Classification
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Hard fruits have a relatively long shelf life
compared to other fruits. Select fruit that is
firm, evenly shaped and has a smooth skin.
Avoid fruit that appears soft or shrivelled, that
has blemishes, bruises or a wrinkly skin. Hard
fruit is susceptible to browning when prepared
and should be served immediately or coated
with an acidulated solution – lemon juice and
water or acidic fruit juice. Quinces are not
eaten raw but cooked, usually poached. Pears
do not ripen well on the tree and
are picked while still hard. They can be stored
in a cool area and refrigerated
when ripened.
Soft fruits have a very limited shelf life
and requires careful handling. Berries should
be clean, plump and have a bright, fully ripe
colour. Fruit should be inspected for mould
and bruising. Look for evidence of liquid in the
bottoms of containers. Damaged fruit should
be separated and discarded quickly before all
the fruit is affected. Soft fruits should be stored
in a coolroom in its original container. Purchase
soft fruits in amounts that can be used within
a day or so, and only wash berries if necessary
immediately prior to serving.
Stone fruits should be plump and firm.
They should not display any blemishes or
bruises. Avoid green stone fruits, as these often
do not ripen well.
Citrus fruits keep well when refrigerated.
Look for fruit that is heavy and an even shape
for its size and has a shiny, firm and smooth
skin. Mandarins may have a slightly uneven or
puffy surface, which is a characteristic of this
fruit.
Tropical fruits should be plump and heavy
for their size with firm flesh that displays
good colour. Quality tropical fruit will have a
fragrant smell. Other than bananas, which are
picked before they ripen, avoid green fruits
as they may not ripen well. Tropical fruits
are stored at higher temperatures than other
fruits. All fruit can be stored in coolrooms,
except for bananas which will blacken if stored
at cold temperatures. Store bananas at room
temperature for up to five days. Pineapples can
be ripened at room temperature for a few days
before refrigerating.
Vine fruits vary according to type. Melons
should have smooth skins, feel heavy for their
size and have a fragrant smell. Watermelons
There is a wide variety of native Australian
fruit that become available a certain times
of the year. These include Bush tomatoes,
Davidson plums, Illawarra plum, Kakadu
plum, Munthari, Quandong, Riberry, Wild
lime and Wild orange to name a few. Refer to
Chapter 27 for further information.
Apples
The most common varieties are the Fuerte,
Hass (dark-skinned) and Sharwill. Ripe
avocadoes will yield slightly when they are
cupped in the hand and gently pressed. As
with other fruit, they must be allowed to ripen
at room temperature and then chilled in the
refrigerator. Cut surfaces tend to discolour
when exposed to air. Prevent this by brushing
with lemon juice and, if necessary, covering
carefully with plastic food wrap.
For preparation, see Recipe XX.
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The green Granny Smith is the most widely
used apple for cooking, though some favour
the Golden delicious. Early in the season,
during March and April, the apples are high
in acid and cook and break up very quickly.
Avocado pears
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Other fruit categories
They tend to boil out of pies. To avoid this, use
controlled-atmosphere apples from last season
or substitute another fruit. Alternatively, the
addition of a small quantity of modified starch
will inhibit boiling out.
Use a Jonathan or Delicious for cheeseboard
decoration or Waldorf salad.
When preparing apples, place the peeled
pieces in cold, salted water to prevent
discolouration, but take care to wash off the
salt prior to cooking.
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should have a yellow, not white, underside.
Kiwifruits are hard when picked and soften
over time. They should be allowed to ripen
at room temperature. Unlike other fruits,
passionfruits are at their best when their
skins are wrinkly.
Someapplevarieties
Avocado
571
Avocado, celery and pineapple salad
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Avocado pears
2
5
Apples, Granny Smith
200 g
500 g
Pineapple
250 g
625 g
Strawberries
175 g
425 g
Celery stalks
150 g
375 g
Coriander
sprigs
1/8 of a bunch
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4 PORTIONS
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Dressing
Oil olive fragrant
chives
Honey
10 ml
25 ml
15 ml
40 ml
30 g
75 g
5 ml
15 ml
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Lemon juice
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Procedure
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1 Peel the apples and dice in brunoise, peel, slice and dice the pineapple, hull the
strawberries and cut them in half, wash and cut the celery stalks in thin slices on
the diagonal, peel and slice the avocadoes in long, thin slices.
2 Make the dressing like a vinaigrette sauce, using lemon juice, oil and honey. Add
chopped chives.
3 Dress the ingredients on a cold plate, drizzle the dressing over the fruits and
garnish with the coriander leaves.
[insertfillerimage]
Bananas, green (plantains)
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Plantains
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Otherwise referred to as cooking bananas,
these have flesh that may vary in colour from
cream to orange. The bananas may be steamed
or baked in their skins, and peeled before
service. They can also be pan-fried in butter
to accompany Asian dishes (vindaloo, for
example).
Berries
Ladyfinger,orThai,bananas
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Cavendishbananas
The following berries are included for
identification and are included in recipes for
sauces, desserts, pastries and preserves.
Capegooseberries
Blueberries
Cranberries
Gooseberries
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Red,blackandwhitecurrants
Strawberries
Bread fruit
Cantaloupe (or rock melon)
A large, rough-skinned fruit, with yellow flesh
when ripe. Use and cook as potatoes. May also
be used as a dessert fruit.
Select firm cantaloupes without blemishes.
They may have a somewhat green appearance
and may take up to a week to ripen. Blemished
or bruised cantaloupes go off quickly and do not
ripen evenly. A ripe cantaloupe will yield a little
if pressed around the stem end. When cut, the
flesh is firm, showing only the slightest tinge of
green near the skin. It will not continue to ripen
once it is cut. If over-ripe, the flesh is a darkish
colour and very watery. Choose the size of
cantaloupes according to their use on the menu:
small ones for cutting in half cross-wise, larger
ones for slicing lengthwise.
Carambola
Breadfruit
This yellow, waxy-skinned fruit should be
wrapped and refrigerated. Use fresh, sliced in
fruit salad: poached or stewed for fruit compotes,
jellies and jams or juiced for fruit juices.
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Cantaloupe
Chestnuts
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The slightly tart Morello cherry is used in pies,
Danish pastries and for preserving and jam.
Other varieties are eaten fresh or stewed.
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Chestnuts are starchy with little oil content.
They are available in autumn and winter. Use
as a savoury or sweet item in soups, stuffings,
purées, coupes and ice cream.
To peel fresh chestnuts, cut a horizontal slit
on both sides of the chestnut. Place them on
a tray with a little water under a salamander
or in a hot oven until they split open. Let them
cool then remove the shell and the inner skin.
Chestnuts
Starfruit(alsocalled‘fivecorners’or‘star
fruit/apple’)
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Cherries
Morellocherries
Eatingcherries
Coconuts
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Coconut cream is available in cans. To make coconut cream, proceed as follows.
Coconut cream
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Coconut
Procedure
1 Using a fresh coconut, pierce an ‘eye’ of the nut with a sharp instrument and
drain out the juice. Put aside, to be added to the coconut cream.
2 Break open the coconut and remove the white flesh. Remove most of the brown
skin on the flesh with a peeler. Put the flesh in a food processor, adding 50
millilitres of water for every 100 grams of coconut. Blend well.
3 Strain the mash through a fine strainer or clean cloth.
4 The coconut flesh may be processed again, to make a weaker extract. Use
the first extract, combined with the juice, as ‘coconut cream’. Add the second
extract (and more water if desired) for use as ‘coconut milk’.
To use desiccated coconut
Coconut milk may be made from desiccated coconut by first steeping it in an equal
volume of warm water, then squeezing it in a cloth to obtain the ‘milk’.
NOTE
Do not allow mixtures containing coconut cream or milk to boil, as they are liable
to curdle.
Dragonfruit
The fruit resembles a large apple with a
patterned green skin, which turns yellow
when ripe. It has numerous large black seeds.
The flesh is sweet and creamy white with a
granular texture. Ripen at room temperature,
then wrap and store in a refrigerator. Use raw
in fruit salads, compotes, ice creams and cakes.
Dragonfruit, or pitaya, also known as ‘cactus
fruit’, is a large, round to oval-shaped fruit
with white to pink/red flesh. It is speckled with
small black seeds similar to poppy seeds. Some
consider the taste to be similar to kiwifruit.
Dragonfruit may be added to fruit salads or
used in sorbets. It is best served chilled.
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Custard apple
Custardapple
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Dates are available soft (fresh-eating), semidried or dried. Soft dates should be lustrous,
dark honey coloured and smooth-skinned.
Fresh dates must be stored in a refrigerator and
are an excellent accompaniment to a cheese
platter. Avoid hard, dried-out fruit. Semi-dried
and dried dates should be stored away from
strong odours, flour and cereals.
Dates
Durian
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Dates
Dragonfruit
A large, spiny green fruit containing several
large brown seeds. The flesh is pale yellow and
custard-like. If over-ripe it exudes a renowned
‘off’ odour. Eat fresh or use in cakes and jams,
but also to accompany meat and rice dishes.
Durian
Figs
These have a green, glossy skin when ripe. They
are generally used raw and should be topped,
tailed and peeled. They may be used in salads,
as a garnish for pork, as a coulis or for a fruit
bavarois (Recipe XX).
Figs are classified by the colour of their skins
– greenish-white, purple, black or red. Their
shape can range from the Syrian round to the
pear-shaped Turkish. Purchase soft, ripe figs
with a bright colour according to the variety.
Ripe fruit is sweet smelling, but over-ripe fruit
has an ‘off’ odour.
Figs are highly perishable and should be
kept cold and used as soon as possible. They
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Feijoas
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Feijoas
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may be served fresh, poached, grilled, stewed,
pickled, on cheese platters, as preserves (with
ginger) and in puddings, ice creams and fruit
salads.
Grapefruit
Look for grapefruits that have a good glossy
colour and regular shape. They should feel
heavy if they are thin-skinned.
Rubygrapefruit
Figs
Standardgrapefruit
To prepare a grapefruit ball
1 Cut in half crosswise and remove the big seeds.
2 Using a serrated grapefruit knife, remove the central pithy core.
3 With the point of the knife, make a cut about 2 centimetres deep around the
grapefruit exactly at the point where the flesh meets the pithy skin.
4 Follow the line of the first cut with the curved knife to free the flesh from the skin.
6 Keep covered and chill for use as required.
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NOTES:
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5 Score the segments along the lines of the membranes to separate them, taking
care to retain the juice.
Guava
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Grapefruit can be segmented in the same way as oranges. See also Recipe XX.
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Guavas are green, yellow or dusty pink, depending
on the variety. When ripe the guava flesh ranges
from white to a deep, pinkish-red. The fruit must
be firm to touch and unblemished. Keep at room
temperature until ripe, then refrigerate and use
quickly. Guavas may be poached or stewed, made
into jellies, used in fruit salad or juiced.
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Jack fruit
The fruit is large (up to 20 kilograms), oval to
oblong in shape and contains many white seeds.
The flesh is soft and juicy with a strong odour.
The fruit pulp can be served raw but is most
commonly used boiled, fried to accompany curries
or roasted as a vegetable.
Guava
Jackfruit
Kumquat
The fruit must be firm and without blemishes.
It is used to decorate pavlova or in fruit salad.
Peel the skin with a vegetable peeler and
slice crosswise into neat, even slices.
For a large quantity, provided the fruit is
firm, they may be blanched and refreshed like
tomatoes (Recipe XX) and peeled by hand.
Kumquats resemble miniature oranges with
large seeds and an acidic taste. They may be
used in a sauce for meat or poultry, or made
into marmalade. They are often candied and as
such may be used in cakes and biscuits or, at
their best, brandied.
Kumquat
SA
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Kiwifruit
E
PA
G
ES
Kiwifruit
Lemons and limes
Choose lemons and limes that have an even
shape and glossy appearance. Store in a
coolroom and rotate stock.
Lemonandlime(right)
574
To cut a lemon for garnish
Procedure
1 Remove the ends so that the flesh is just exposed.
2 Stand the lemon on a cutting board and, using a slight curving action, slice off
the skin and pith. After the first slice follow the line of the exposed flesh.
Procedure
PA
1 Remove the ends of the lemon, leaving a little pith.
G
To cut lemon or lime wedges
2 Stand the lemon on a cutting board and slice into four or six segments
depending on size.
3 Lightly slice away the centre pith from each wedge.
E
4 Store in a cool place and keep covered to prevent drying.
SA
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575
ES
3 Turn the lemon on its side and slice 3–4 millimetres thick. Keep slices together
to prevent drying out until required.
Logan, lychee, rambutan
Botanically all of the same family, these soft fruits have a hard, shiny brown seed
surrounded by a pearly white, translucent flesh which is very sweet and slightly
perfumed. The fruit, once peeled, can be used fresh or poached in a sugar syrup for
salads, and made into jams and jellies. Keep refrigerated.
Logan
Lychee
Rambutan
Mangoes
G
ES
When ripe, mangoes are usually reddishyellow, although some varieties are
greenish. Poor-quality fruit has a stringy,
textured flesh. Ripe mangoes will not
keep, and should be peeled, sliced and
frozen. They may be used in place of
peaches, and are popular as a garnish.
576
PA
Mango
Fresh mango salsa
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
1 large
3 large
Red onion
50 g
125 g
Shallots
2
5
Chilli peppers
2
5
Grated ginger
10 g
25 g
Salt and pepper
To taste
To taste
Coriander leaves
A few
1/8 bunch
Honey
10 mL
25 mL
Lime juice
15 mL
40 mL
Lime zest
5g
12 g
E
4 PORTIONS
SA
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Mangoes, ripe but firm
Procedure
1 Peel and remove the mango cheeks, dice the flesh, peel and dice the onion in a
fine brunoise, slice the shallots finely, deseed and slice the peppers finely. Grate
the ginger, zest the lime and then juice them.
2 Combine all ingredients in a bowl, mix lightly, and allow to stand for an hour in a
cool place.
NOTE
Serve as a garnish with cooked prawns, crab or lobster meat
Oranges
Mangosteens have purple skins and white
flesh. Peel and segment them like an orange.
They are eaten fresh and segments can be used
in desserts.
A firm, sound fruit with a count of about 120 to
the case are usually required. For cutting into
segments, the Valencia variety is preferred to
the navel.
PA
G
ES
Mangosteen
To segment an orange
SA
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577
Bloodorange
E
Mangosteen
Procedure
1 Cut the ends off the orange so as to expose the flesh.
2 Stand the orange on a board, and using a slight curving action, slice away the
peel and pith, removing as little flesh as possible.
3 Take the orange in the hand and, working over a basin, cut out the segments
along the membranes. Squeeze the juice from the residue into the basin.
4 Chill thoroughly and use as required.
NOTES
Grapefruit and lemons are segmented in the same way.
See also fruit cocktail, Recipe XX.
Orangewithsegments
Pawpaw (papaya)
PA
G
Pawpaw should not be
included in gelatine-setting
desserts because the pH
of the fruit will affect the
setting properties of the
gelatine.
ES
NOTE:
Ripe pawpaw has flesh ranging from yellow to orange. The black seeds inside
must be removed. Select fruit that is well shaped with good colour and smooth
skin free of bruises. Avoid fruit with a dull, shrivelled appearance. Ripen fruit at
room temperature, then wrap and keep in a refrigerator.
Semi-ripe fruit can be sautéed and served as a vegetable. The ripe fruit can
be used on a breakfast buffet, served with prosciutto or smoked meats, in fruit
salad, ice cream and creams, or made into vinaigrettes, chutneys and coulis.
E
Pawpaw
Papaya and plum salad
SA
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578
QUANTITIES
4 PORTIONS
10 PORTIONS
Papayas or pawpaw
1
3
Mango
2
5
Blood plums
4
10
Grapes, red globes and green
100 g of each
250 g of each
Mixed green salad leaves
100 g
250 g
Mint leaves
4 sprigs
10 sprigs
Egg yolks
3
8
Sugar
60 g
150 g
Water
30 mL
75 mL
White vinegar
15 mL
35 mL
Butter
30 g
75 g
Sour cream
200 mL
500 mL
Mint chopped
10 g
25 g
Lemon juice
10 mL
25 mL
Procedure
1 Combine in a saucepan the egg yolks, sugar, water, vinegar and butter. Place it
on a low heat, stirring the mixture constantly until slightly thick. Do not boil.
2 Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream, lemon juice and the mint.
Cover and refrigerate.
ES
3 Peel and cut the papaya in half, remove the seeds, cut in large cubes, peel and
remove the cheeks of the mangoes. Cut them in smaller cubes. Cut the ripe
plums in half and remove stones. Cut the flesh in wedges. Cut the grapes in half
and remove seeds.
G
4 To serve, make a ‘nest’ with the washed and dried mixed leaves, place the fruits
in the centre and sprinkle with some dressing. Garnish with mint springs. Serve
the remaining dressing separately.
NOTES:
Pears
E
Yoghurt can be substituted for sour cream.
PA
Cos lettuce could be used instead of mixed greens. The fruits are then displayed on
the leaves.
SA
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Pears should be bought when quite firm and allowed to ripen at room temperature,
as they bruise easily when ripe. The common Packham and William pears are allpurpose fruits, while the dumpier-shaped Comice is good for poaching for desserts,
but may also be served fresh. The russet-brown Beurre bosc has firm flesh and is
good for cooking and jam-making (with ginger). Corella and Nashi pears should be
eaten while still crisp and are a good accompaniment to a cheese platter.
Beurreboscpear
Commicepear
Nashipear
Persimmon
A small, melon-shaped fruit with a smooth
green to yellow skin with a purple blush. The
flesh is creamy and tastes like a combination
of lemon, pineapple and melon. Use fresh in
salads and fruit salads.
The fruit resembles a plump, bright-orange
tomato. Persimmons should be allowed to fully
ripen before being eaten. They are best eaten
raw but can be poached in syrup or puréed and
served with meats. Allow the fruit to ripen at
room temperature, then wrap and store in a
refrigerator.
Pepino
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Pomegranate
E
PA
G
ES
Pepino
The ‘apple with many seeds’ is vivid red, thickskinned and needs to be eaten when fully ripe.
The fruit divides into sections, each containing
many seeds and a reddish, bitter-sweet pulp.
Serve fresh as a garnish in salads or fruit
salads. Cook with lamb, pork, chicken or duck.
The juice can also be used for soups, sauces,
ice creams, sorbets and jellies.
Pomegranate
Persimmon
Prickly pear cactus
The fruit of this cactus is yellow–red to purple
in colour and the flesh can range from white to
red. Some varieties contain seeds while others
are seedless. Despite their prickly nature the
flesh is very sweet and once carefully peeled
can be sliced and eaten raw with lemon or lime
juice. It may be made into a purée or compote
to accompany some desserts and may also be
used in mousse, jam and marmalade.
Pricklypear
Rhubarb
Quinces are related to the apple and pear
family. These irregular, apple-shaped fruit
should be plump and evenly coloured, bright
yellow with a brownish ‘down’ on the skin.
As they bruise easily, handle carefully and
purchase only unblemished fruit. The best
fruit has a tear of pectin in the core.
Use poached as a fruit compote, in pies
with apple, for jam and jellies and as a sauce
for meats.
Sold in bunches of stems ranging from green
to red, the red ones being preferred. Purchase
firm, crisp stalks that are unblemished and
bright in appearance. Avoid very thin and fat
stalks – the latter tend to be dry and woody.
Store in the refrigerator.
Stewed, poached or baked rhubarb is used
in desserts, pies, puddings, conserves, sauces
and compotes. Rhubarb is highly sensitive to
ES
Quince
NOTE:
NOTE:
Rhubarb is not a fruit as such but is prepared in a
similar way. It should be cooked in stainless steel
vessels, certainly not in aluminium containers. The
green leaves of rhubarb should never be used as they
are poisonous.
SA
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E
Cook slowly to allow the flesh to change from cream
to a deep pink colour.
PA
G
heat so extra care is needed to cook it. Rhubarb
goes very well with apples.
Quince
Rhubarb
Tamarillos
G
ES
Sometimes known as ‘tree tomatoes’,
tamarillos are ripe when soft to touch.
They should have ruby red, unblemished
skins.
Cut off the stem. To peel them, blanch
and refresh as for tomatoes (Recipe XX).
579
PA
Tamarillo
Stewed tamarillos
Procedure
E
1 Prepare a stock syrup (Recipe XX).
2 Peel the tamarillos and cut them lengthwise.
SA
M
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3 Bring the syrup to boil and add the fruit. Gently bring it to boil again; remove
from the heat.
4 Cover with a lid and allow to cool. Chill before serving.
Tangelo
Tangelos are best from June to August.
They can be used in the same way as
oranges and may be segmented like a
mandarin.
Tangeloandsegments
Fruit medley compote
QUANTITIES
10 PORTIONS
Apricots or peaches
250 g
625 g
Dates
50 g
125 g
Prunes
50 g
125 g
Sultanas
50 g
125 g
Apples (Granny Smith) or pears,
not ripe
50 g
Onions
100 g
White wine vinegar
30 mL
Brown sugar
10 g
125 g
G
250 g
75 mL
PA
25 g
2g
5g
3g
8g
to taste
to taste
2
5
1
3
pinch
pinch
Cardamom
pinch
pinch
Five-star anise
1
3
Ginger grated
Salt and black pepper
Cloves
Lemon peel
Nutmeg
E
Mustard seeds
ES
4 PORTIONS
SA
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580
Procedure
1 Remove the stones of the apricots or peaches. Dice the onions finely. Peel and
cut the apples in small brunoise.
2 Place all the ingredients into a saucepan and combine well.
3 Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer for 30–40 minutes. The ingredients
should be soft but not mashed.
4 Cool completely then pour into screw-top jars.
NOTE
Many variations of the theme can be made from fruits in season; the importance is to
balance acidity with sweetness and sufficient spices to make it interesting.

cookery for the hospitality industry

Transcription

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