edible VANCOUVER - Edible Communities

Transcription

a member of edible communities
edible Vancouver
the story on local food
issue four • winter 2008
my slice of heaven
chocolate with bacon?
winter vegetables, ooh la la!
®
Not just a wine store. A BC wine store.
KENSINGTON SQUARE WINES 6626-B Hastings Street. Burnaby. 604-294-9573. kensingtonsquarewines.com
SIP WINES Ironwood Plaza, Unit 1030-11660 Steveston Hwy. Richmond. 604-271-9463. sipwines.ca
VILLAGE WINES (DUNBAR) 3536 West 41st Ave. & Dunbar. Vancouver. 604-269-9433. villagevqawines.com
VILLAGE WINES (KITSILANO) 1811 W 1st Ave. Vancouver. 604-732-8827. villagevqawines.com
VILLAGE WINES (EDGEMONT VILLAGE) 3050 Edgemont Blvd. North Vancouver. 604-985-9463. villagevqawines.com
THE WINE EMPORIUM #500 - 22259 48th Ave. Langley. 604-532-5388. wine-emporium.com
BELLEVUE WINE COMPANY 1471 Bellevue Ave. West Vancouver. 604-913-0802. bellevuewine.com
Contents
edible NOTES
edible WINTER
3
4
What’s in season? Winter vegetables, ooh la la!
edible Heroes
edible Gifts to make
9
10
edible Gifts to buy
11
My Slice Of Heaven
12
On loving fruitcake beyond all measure
By Becky Southwell
The Forerunners of Pleasure 15
Local hops for local beer
By Rick Green
Want to buy local? Join the club
Ways to buy fresh from the farm
17
edible Experiment
20
Control your temper: chocolate with bacon
By Bambi Edlund
field NOTES
24
Taxing farmers off the land
By Jeff Nield
church-made comfort food
26
Perogies are the flannel pyjamas of the culinary scene
By Debbra Mikaelsen
What the Girls Are Drinking
28
What the boys Are Drinking
29
Source guide: Where to find
30
edible events
30
finish
32
By Kimberly Fehr
Photo this page and Finish: Philip Solman
Cover photo: Bambi Edlund
edible Vancouver
Publisher
Philip Solman
Editor
Debbra Mikaelsen
Art Director
Bambi Edlund
Contributors
Bambi Edlund, Kimberley Fehr,
Rick Green, Nettie Holonko,
Debbra Mikaelsen, Leeanne Munn,
Rose Murray, Jeff Nield,
Anna Olson, Eric Pateman,
Philip Solman, Becky Southwell
and Carole Topalian.
Special thanks to Kim Peterson.
Letter from the Editor
I like Christmas. There; I’ve said it. I even like Christmas shopping, because a few years
ago I discovered how much I could do at food and wine shops. I have no stomach for the
mega-malls and their tinny muzak, but I find certain grocery stores and gourmet shops
both cheerful and calming. There’s a wintry sort of magic conjured up by Granville Island’s
roasting chestnuts, festive buskers and cozy little shops.
There’s a strong case to be made for gifts of food and alcohol. With consumables, your
choice is never going to be the wrong size or colour. It won’t need dusting, and you’re
unlikely to discover it at a garage sale the following spring. It’s also much easier to find
local products than if you’re buying gadgets, slippers, or ties. You can choose to spoil your
loved ones with special indulgences that you know they’ll enjoy but would never buy for
themselves. Or you can say you care about their health by giving organic products and gift
certificates for food that is still recognizable as food. If your place of work participates in an
exchange of gifts that must cost less than $10, a slab of chocolate or a jar of preserves will
almost certainly be more popular than the toilet plunger that I received one year.
With all the shopping and parties, with all that build-up, Christmas often seems like the
culmination of winter, rather than the beginning. By mid-January I occasionally find myself
thinking, “Well, that was interesting. Now I’m ready for spring.”
If only.
Winter is rather long here. And on that note, I have to say farewell, for a while. Edible Vancouver Spring will be out April first. (No fooling.) If that seems too long, please visit our
(new) website for more stories, recipes, events and information. Believe me, we’ll miss you
too, but let’s keep in touch through our Infrequent Emailings. (Sign up on the website.)
Mailing
1038 East 11th Avenue
Vancouver BC V5T 2G2
[email protected]
www.ediblevancouver.com
Advertising
Philip Solman
[email protected]
Phone: 604-215-1758
Letters
[email protected]
Edible Vancouver is published seasonally by
Two Spoons Media Inc. Subscription rate is
$28 for four issues ($29.40 including GST)
for delivery within Canada, or $35.00 in
Canadian funds for delivery to the U.S.
No part of this publication maybe be
used without written permission from the
publisher. ©2008. Every effort is made to
avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If,
however, an error comes to your attention,
please accept our sincere apologies
and notify us. Thank you.
Edible Vancouver is printed locally on 40%
post-consumer recycled paper (cover is 30%
post-consumer). Together, the result is:
28 trees left in the forest
2420 lbs net greenhouse gases prevented
Wishing you all the best of the winter season, and may the child in you stuff yourself on
snowflakes.
10,044 gallons of wastewater flow saved
Debbra Mikaelsen
Editor
19,000,000 BTUs of energy not consumed
2 | edible vancouver winter 2008
1290 lbs of solid waste not generated
edible NOTES
Winter Markets
Sure, the harvest season is behind us,
but the markets are not over. Discover what your local farmers and
food artisans have to offer at these
Winter Markets:
In Vancouver at The WISE Hall, 1882
Adanac St., on alternate Saturdays,
December 6–April 25, 10am–2pm.
In Port Moody at the Recreation
Complex on Ioco Road, second and
fourth Sundays, December through
March, 1pm–5pm.
In White Rock at The Elks Hall, 1469
George St., December 7, 9am–1pm.
More details: ediblevancouver.com
Good Growing:
The Gift for People Who Have Everything
What do you give those people who seem to have it all? How about the
gift of helping someone who has very little?
The Flavor Bible
People in developing countries can’t always afford to buy healthy foods
by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg.
Little, Brown and Company.
like fruits and vegetables. We can help them to a better future with a
Good Growing gift of seeds: a meaningful, enduring way to ensure that
generations of families can grow their own nutritious produce, and sell
the excess at local markets. At Ten Thousand Villages stores, $25 provides vegetable seeds and fruit seedlings for 10 families. More than a gift
of food, it’s a gift of self-reliance. tenthousandvillages.ca
An inspiring resource for curious and adventurous cooks,
this is not a recipe collection, but more of a how-to manual
for creating your own. View it as a guidebook to an exotic
country, one that encourages you to explore the terrain on
your own, instead of prescribing a set itinerary. The Flavor
Bible is an extensive guide to preparing dishes or meals that
successfully marry different ingredients. Foods, alcohols,
herbs and spices appear alphabetically, followed by a list of
ingredients that tend to work well—or even brilliantly—
with them. If that winter squash is demanding to be eaten,
you can consult The Flavor Bible and discover that it will
be excellent with onions, parmesan and chicken stock.
There are fascinating bits of chef-wisdom about choosing herbs, honey, oil, salt and pepper. Frequently quoted
are Vancouver’s own Vikram Vij and Meeru Dhalwala (of
Vij’s), and Dominique and Cindy Duby (Wild Sweets).
Pity that the book’s subtitle is geographically challenged.
edible vancouver winter 2008 | 3
edible WINTER
What ’s in Season?
Apples, beets, broccoli,
Brussels sprouts, cabbage,
carrots, chard, chestnuts,
chocolate, garlic, hazelnuts,
heartnuts*, honey, kale,
kohlrabi, leeks, mushrooms,
onions, parsnips, pears,
potatoes, radishes, spinach,
squash, sunchokes, turnips,
walnuts and more...
*Heartnuts are a variety of Japanese walnut that grow at the Gellatly Nut
Farm in Westbank, are harvested in autumn, and store well in their shells.
Oh, my.
Brussels sprouts, kale and turnips. What
an intimidating list of things that many of
us have been conditioned to loathe. But
winter vegetables can be delicious. Even—
dare we say—sexy. And it’s our hope that
more people will learn to love them.
Ways to sneak winter vegetables into your
child, partner or self:
• Pretend that raw cabbage leafs are
tortillas and stuff with taco fillings.
• This is untried, but we’ve been told you
can use parsnips in carrot cake recipes,
or grate them into potato pancakes.
Photo: Bambi Edlund
• Bake spaghetti squash until the flesh
is, well, spaghetti-like. Toss with your
favourite pasta sauce.
edible WINTER
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 300°F.
Put chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Bring cream, milk, espresso
powder (to taste), and a pinch of salt just to a boil in a small heavy
saucepan, stirring until espresso powder is dissolved, then pour
over chocolate, whisking until chocolate is melted and mixture is
Photo: Eric Pateman
smooth.
Whisk together yolks, sugar, and a pinch of salt in another bowl,
then add warm chocolate mixture in a slow stream, whisking constantly. Pour this custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a glass
Chocolate Espresso Pots du Crème
with Thomas Haas Sparkle Cookie
Chocolate and more chocolate—what better way to brighten
a cold, wet Vancouver day? I have seen grown men fight over
Thomas Haas’ famous Sparkle Cookies. Made with almond
flour, they’re the perfect gift for anyone with wheat allergies.
Serve with a dark coffee or some blackberry port.
From Eric Pateman, President and Founder of Edible BC
6 oz organic dark chocolate disks
1½ cups whipping cream
⁄2 cup whole milk
1
11⁄2 to 2 tsp instant-espresso powder
6 large egg yolks
2 Tbsp sugar
Waste Not
measure and cool completely, stirring occasionally, for about 15
minutes.
Divide custard among 8 ramekins, then place custards in a hot
water bath (a pan with hot water halfway up the sides of the
ramekins) covered tightly with foil (with small holes poked in the
top). Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until custards are set around
edges but still slightly wobbly in centres.
Transfer ramekins to a rack to cool completely, uncovered, about
1 hour. (Custards will set as they cool.) Chill, covered, until cold,
at least 3 hours.
Serve with a dollop of crème fraiche, crushed candy canes, a
sprig of mint, and a freshly baked Sparkle Cookie (baking directions on the package).
Serves 8.
• Nuts should be stored in the freezer to keep them fresh, and
toasted in a low oven to bring out the flavour before using.
• Save peelings and trimmings from
scrubbed carrots, potatoes, celery, parsley
stems, etc. (Don’t include cabbage, broccoli or
other brassicas.) Keep in a freezer bag, frozen. When
the bag is full, make vegetable stock by adding water, garlic,
peppercorns, bay leaf, etc. Bring to a boil, then simmer for
about an hour and strain.
• Steam or stir-fry radish leaves and serve with butter and
lemon juice. They taste like radishes, only a bit greener.
• Leftover wine can be frozen in ice cube trays for later use in
sauces, soups, etc. (Wait a minute; you have leftover wine???)
• To get more juice out of lemons and limes, immerse
them in boiling water for a minute or two (or zap in the
microwave for 10 seconds). Then, using the heel of your hand,
roll them around on the counter a few times before juicing.
edible WINTER
Borscht (Beet Soup)
From Nettie Holonko
⁄3 cup navy beans
1
2 cups grated beets
4 cups water
3 Tbsp instant chicken or vegetable stock
(or just substitute the 4 cups water for 4 cups home-made
stock)
¼ cup chopped onion
¾ cup diced tomatoes
¾ cup diced carrots
1 cup diced potatoes
½ cup shredded cabbage (optional)
2 small cloves garlic
1 ½ Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp fresh parsley
1 Tbsp fresh dill or ½ tsp dried
½ cup whipping cream
Wash beans and soak in a cup of water for at least 2 hours or
overnight. In a large pot, bring to a boil and cook until soft, adding
water if needed. Add water and/or stock, tomatoes and onions.
Bring to a boil and cook for 15 minutes. Add beets and cook
for another 10 minutes; then add cabbage, carrots and potatoes.
Cook until vegetables are tender, add the beans, then remove
from stove and add garlic, lemon juice, herbs and cream.
Serves 4-6.
Shredded Sprouts Sauteed with Pancetta
From A Taste of Canada by Rose Murray (Whitecap, 2008)
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until crisp, about 4 minutes. With a
slotted spoon, remove to drain on paper towels. Discard all but
2 Tbsp (25mL) of the drippings from the pan. Add the shredded
sprouts and hot pepper flakes; sauté for 3 minutes. Cover the pan
1 lb (500 g) Brussels sprouts
and cook until the sprouts are tender-crisp, 2 to 3 minutes longer.
1 Tbsp (15 mL) olive oil
Stir in the lemon juice, sprinkle with the pancetta and serve
2 oz pancetta, diced (about 1⁄2 cup/125 mL) immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
⁄2 tsp (2 mL) hot pepper flakes
1
2 Tbsp (25 mL) fresh lemon juice
Trim the sprouts, cut them in half lengthwise and thinly slice
across each half. (The sprouts can be shredded hours ahead of
time and refrigerated.)
(Editor’s note: a year ago, few things terrified me as much as a
plate of Brussels sprouts. But I discovered that shredding and
sautéing them turns them into a dish I actually look forward to.
Prepare to become converted. DM.)
Photo: © Chiya Li | Dreamstime.com
Brussels sprouts are a favourite in our family. It’s unfortunate
many people avoid them because they have been subjected to
overcooked grey versions of these little cabbage cousins. In this
new fast way of cooking them, there is a lot of lively colour and
flavour—sure to appeal to all.
edible WINTER
Kale
Kale is extremely nutritious and easy to
grow, even in the cold season, and even
by the most tentative gardeners. “What
can I do with kale?” is the single question we get asked most at Edible Vancouver. One answer is to make these. They
are ridiculously simple, and most people
who like garlic give them the thumbs up.
Kale Canapés
4 cups of kale leaves, stripped from the thick stems
8 slices of baguette
1-2 enormous, juicy cloves of garlic
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 cup vegetable stock
salt to taste
Shred the kale leaves in quite fine pieces and rinse them well.
Place in a bowl, pour enough boiling water over to cover, and
let sit for a few minutes until very limp.
Kale photo: © Chiyacat | Dreamstime.com
Toast the baguette slices until just crisp and a light golden
brown. Peel the garlic cloves and cut them into several wide
pieces, exposing as much surface area as possible. Rub the
cut garlic surfaces along each slice of bread, on both sides,
until the toast is fragrant with garlic. Reserve garlic cloves and
crush them. Heat the olive oil over low in a medium-sized pot
and add the crushed garlic. Cook for a few minutes, until the oil
is garlicky. Drain the water off the kale, toss the kale into the
oil, and give it a good stir. Add the stock, cover, bring to a boil,
then reduce and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Taste and add salt
if desired.
Using a slotted spoon, lift a portion of kale onto each piece of
toast. Serve immediately, while still warm.
Makes 8 pieces.
More recipes at ediblevancouver.com. And if you’d like to
share your best (original) recipes for winter vegetables,
please send them to [email protected]. We’ll add
a few of the most promising to our website.
SPCA Certified
This holiday season…
Eat Locally, Choose Ethically
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Cat er ing
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Infused with a French Mediterranean Elegance
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Institute of Massachusetts
Allow us to create a
bountiful feast guaranteed
to arouse passion….
Little Qualicum Cheeseworks, SPCA Certified since 2005
A
t the BC SPCA, we put farm animal welfare at the top
of our “wish list” by certifying farms that meet our high
standards of humane care.
Visit www.spca.bc.ca/farm for a list of fabulous holiday
recipes featuring SPCA Certified products.
BCSPCA
Edible Vancouver-HolidaySeason_41 1
11/6/2008 12:28:48 PM
“All the dishes you prepared for me
were absolutely delicious. The tahini
sauce was insane, the pressed salad
and the miso soup were amazing!”
Alicia Silverstone
Private Cooking - Cooking Classes - Dietary Consultations
778-280-3858 www.mandalacatering.com
edible Heroes
Bicycle riders and
bug eaters
These three people are shaking up Vancouver’s
food scene, and one of them in particular would
like to start a genuine ripple.
Meeru Dhalwala, partner and chef at Vij’s restaurant, became curious about less-accepted
sources of protein when she read an article in
the New York Times that equated bug-eating to
bicycle-riding. The bicycle and its association
with a greener, healthier lifestyle resonated with
Meeru, and she wants Vancouver diners to have
more bike-riding experiences.
Barbara-Jo McIntosh, David George Gordon
Her research took her to Seattleite David George
and Meeru Dhalwala
Gordon (author of The Eat-A-Bug Cookbook),
who aspires to become the Martha Stewart of bug cooking. (He
didn’t like sushi.” Because restaurants tend to fuel food movements and
stands a good chance; there doesn’t seem to be much competition.)
influence home-cooking, what she wants most is for more chefs and
Meeru says, “Even talking to him on the phone made me queasy. I
restaurateurs to come on board, either using crickets or others insects.
wasn’t sure I could go through with it. So I told everyone at work I
And if that sounded like a gauntlet being thrown down, it was.
was going to meet with him. That’s what I do to make sure I won’t
Barbara-Jo McIntosh handed her Books to Cooks kitchen over to
get out of something.”
Meeru and David one night in October so that members of the public
David introduced her to a live waxworm. “After it popped in my
could learn about cooking with bugs. Guests sampled Meeru’s bread,
mouth it tasted kind of like a grape,” says Meeru. She made herself
the whole-roasted crickets, and David’s cricket-nymph orzo dish. He
eat another one immediately, before the ick-factor could get the
explained that bugs have been eaten by most of the world’s peoples;
better of her. “I wouldn’t want anyone to think ‘I’m too disgusted
if anything we’re odd in North America for considering the idea so
to do this.’ Believe me, I was just as disgusted.”
distasteful. He was quick to point out that early European settlers to
North America found the idea of eating lobster disgusting, and that
She did want to put bugs on Vij’s menu, and they had to be local
crickets and grasshoppers are related to shrimp and prawns.
bugs, so she found a cricket ranch in north Washington state.
Photo: Philip Solman
They also had to be palatable. While David George Gordon likes
people to face the reality of what they’re eating, Meeru decided to
go more gently on her clientele. She roasts the crickets with oil and
salt, grinds them to a powder, and works them into an unleavened
bread. Anyone who has ever eaten at Vij’s will know they’re in good
hands with Meeru. If you’re going to eat bugs, this is the place to
do it. The bread has been quite popular, and Vij’s serves about 12 to
13 orders a night. “People are excited to try it, and it’s the healthiest
thing I’ve got on the menu,” she says.
One cupful of crickets has about 250 calories and more iron than a
steak. High in calcium and vitamins, they’re also a source of omegas.
Because they’re small and low on the food chain, cricket-farming is an
environmentally friendly alternative to raising meat. “We’re not doing it
for shock value,” says Meeru. “We’d like to start a new food movement.
It might take a few years, but there was a time when Vancouverites
Not surprisingly, people often ask David about the weirdest thing
he’s ever eaten. To which he says, “Cheez Whiz is pretty weird.”
Vote for your local heroes
In this busy voting season, cast one more vote for food.
This is where you choose the farmers, chefs or restaurants, food
or beverage artisans and non-profit organizations who deserve
recognition for celebrating and supporting local food.
The winners of Edible Communities’ Third Annual Local
Hero Awards will be announced in our Spring 2009 issue.
Vote online by December 12. ediblecommunities.com/heroes
edible Gifts to make
Chocolate Hazelnut Granola
Spiced Apple Butter
Everyone on your list deserves a good reason to get out of bed
on dreary winter mornings. This uses local hazelnuts and honey,
and is astonishingly good served with chopped dried prunes
and a splash of milk.
From In the Kitchen with Anna by Anna Olson (Whitecap 2008)
6 cups rolled oats (not quick oats)
¾ cups chopped hazelnuts
1 cup shredded coconut
Makes about 6 cups (1.5 L)
4 lb (1.8 kg) McIntosh apples 1 cup (250 mL) apple cider 3 cinnamon sticks
1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger
⁄2 tsp (2 mL) ground nutmeg 1½ Tbsp brown sugar
1
pinch of salt
1
4 Tbsp sunflower or canola oil
1
¾ cup honey
Peel, core and dice apples and add to a large, heavy-bottomed
pot along with the cider. Bring to a simmer over medium heat,
then lower the heat and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally until the apples are tender, about 20 minutes. Purée in a
food processor (or with an immersion blender). Return the
apples to the pot, add the spices and simmer uncovered over
medium-low heat for about 40 minutes, stirring often. Add the
honey and simmer, again stirring often, about 15 minutes more
or until thickened—when lifting spoonfuls, it should mound a
little. Pack the apple butter into sterilized jars, seal and boil for
10 minutes in a canning pot (without submerging the seals).
1 cup finely chopped bittersweet chocolate*
Heat oven to 325ºF.
In a 9”x12” baking pan, mix oats, hazelnuts and coconut. Toast
for 10 minutes.
In a small saucepan, warm oil over low heat. Whisk in honey,
sugar and salt, and heat gently for 5 minutes or until liquidy and
well-combined. Pour over the dry ingredients and stir well. Stir
some more to prevent clumping.
Bake for about 20 minutes, stirring a couple of times during the
process, getting your spoon right into the corners of the pan.
Remove and stir frequently as it cools; don’t let it harden into
clumps.
When completely cooled, add the chocolate, mix well, and
package in gift jars or bags. (Urban Source has some starry,
festive, food-safe bags of varying sizes. urbansource.bc.ca)
*Mini chocolate chips work and will save a bit of time, but
there’s something deeply satisfying about hacking into a good
block of chocolate, and finding irregular chunks, shavings etc. in
your cereal bowl.
⁄4 tsp (1 mL) ground allspice ⁄4 cup (60 mL) honey Sweet Pear Chutney
From In the Kitchen with Anna by Anna Olson (Whitecap 2008)
This is a lovely companion to any roast.
Makes about 8 cups (2 L)
12 Bartlett pears, ripe but still firm
3 Tbsp (45 mL) lemon juice
2 cups (500 mL) sugar
1 Tbsp (15 mL) finely grated lemon zest Peel, core and dice the pears, tossing with the lemon juice. Add
the pears (and their juice), sugar, lemon zest and cinnamon to
a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a simmer over
medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pears are tender,
about 20 minutes. Pack into sterilized jars and seal, or pack into
tubs and freeze.
Photo: © Jakub Pavlinec | Dreamstime.com
1 tsp (5 mL) ground cinnamon edible Gifts to buy
Just a small sampling of ideas for foodies, tipplers, gardeners and
locavores. These retailers are well worth a visit, as many have an
extensive selection of local delicacies.
Under $5
• Seeds for vegetables, herbs, and the flowers that attract pollinating insects.
• Handmade Strawberry or Coconut Marshmallows, because they
really are something special. butterbakedgoods.com
• Salt and Pepper Chocolate Bark could become an obsession. It’s dreamy
when paired with merlot. At the exceptionally intelligent Township 7
Winery in Langley, and the Euphoria Store in Fort Langley.
Under $10
• Vista D’oro Spiced Cranberry with Ice Wine Artisanal Marmalade. Fantastic on a turkey sandwich, or spooned onto warm
camembert. At Capers Whole Foods Markets. vistadoro.com
• Langford’s Petal Shortbreads, made with real butter, dried fruit
and flowers. At Cooks ‘N’ Corks in Port Coquitlam, and a few
wineries. langfordfoods.com
• Ethical
Bean’s Fair Trade Loose-leaf Teas. Fair Trade Coffee
abounds, but Fair Trade tea is harder to find. Thumbs up to
Ethical Bean for thinking about tea farmers, too. At Ten Thousand Villages and other enlightened retailers. ethicalbean.com
• Hainle Vineyards organic Merlot Jelly is perfect for the person
you suspect would love a little merlot with his morning croissant.
At Urban Fare.
Under $15
• Artisan Edibles Champagne Rose Petal Jelly. True artisans, they
have managed to put the taste of summer in a jar, to sustain you
through the monsoons. At Fieldstone Artisan Breads in Crescent
Beach, Well Seasoned in Langley, Edible BC on Granville Island,
and other tasteful purveyors of yumminess. artisanedibles.com
• Edible
Gardens Mission Fig Balsamic Spread. With (or even
without) a bit of goat’s cheese, this is a bite of pure heaven. Capers
Whole Foods Markets and other locations. ediblegardens.net
Under $30
• A bottle of Venturi Schulze Millefiori. A hauntingly delicious
white wine named for a thousand flowers. Broadway International Wine Shop, Vancouver. venturischulze.com
Photo: Philip Solman
• A Green Zebra guide means the giftee gets coupons for great
deals at local businesses, and you get to support TB Vets Charitable Foundation. greenzebraguide.ca
• A
subscription to Edible Vancouver. Four issue’s worth of
stories, recipes and information about our local food scene. It’s
what everyone on our list is getting this year. (Shh. Don’t tell.)
ediblevancouver.com
Under $50
• Artisan Breads in Five Minutes a Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë
Francois. The recipient might bake up a storm and share the
bounty. At Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks.
• Okanagan Spirits Old Italian Prune or Poire Williams Eau de Vie.
These European-style fruit brandies make exquisite after-dinner
sipping. At many BC Liquor Stores. okanaganspirits.com
Varying amounts
• Gift
Cards for the sustainable restaurants of the Green Table
Network. Perhaps the recipient will treat you to lunch? Find
members at greentable.net
• Best of BC gourmet basket: the gift of BC’s most tasteful creations. everythingwine.ca
• Food-gardening classes from Farmhouse Farm in East Vancouver.
The course focuses on overcoming challenges like small space,
limited time, etc., and your support will help keep farming alive
in the city. Suggested donation is between $150 and $300 for the
ten-week course. [email protected]
My Slice Of
Heaven
By Becky Southwell
On loving fruitcake beyond all measure
There are a few things I am abashed to
admit. I’m not going to tell you the first
until we’ve gone out for a few drinks.
The second is that, as a mom, I have been guilty of using an egregious amount of paper towels. On particularly frenzied days, after
the baby has arched her eyebrow in disdain before flipping her
pureed carrots onto the floor and my son has chased most of his
spaghetti out of his bowl with his fork, I have been known to wad
up a fistful of paper towels and attack the latest Jackson Pollock
on my kitchen floor with brazen disregard for the environment,
while saying a secret prayer of thanks to whomever invented this
perforated roll of sanity and ease. Maybe my guilt is dialed a little
high, but I fully expect St. Peter to greet me at the pearly gates
wearing a David Suzuki pin and a big frown. At which point: I
might offer him a fruitcake.
After all, given the historical symbolism behind the cake (the three
Magi bearing gifts for the Christ child), it seems like an appropriate
house-warming gift for the world’s most powerful bouncer. And since
this is my version of Heaven, fruitcake abounds. Which is my third
abashed admission: I positively love Christmas cake. But for reasons
I can’t quite fathom, this humble little tradition is only slightly less
polarizing than a certain recent election south of the border.
Photos: Leeanne Munn
My husband is convinced that in the event of a nuclear holocaust,
a family of cockroaches will crawl out of a hole, carrying a perfectly
intact Christmas cake. I told friends I would be making several
kinds of cake and invited them over to try it (and offer up witty
quotes that I could crib for this article). One was willing—but only
if I served lots of eggnog and promised to housesit her cat. Another
made gagging sounds and uttered something like “Food of Satan”.
Only my third friend (who is now my favourite) sounded thrilled
and offered to bring a bottle of port.
If food is love, then fruitcake is like a child’s Valentine, the culinary
equivalent to a paper heart covered in wadded up tissues dabbed in
glue. The exuberant excess carries a message to the recipient: either
I love you! or at least I like you a lot!, or maybe Time to promote me!
My grandmother’s cake went to each family member and was a
labour of love. This is how special I think you are, her cake sang, I
added sultanas, and nuts, and four different kinds of dried fruit, and
laced it with brandy for weeks and weeks. No wonder we loved it: we
were sauced. Regardless of the message, the symbolism is always
extravagance, abundance for the coming year, and even decadence:
so much so that Queen Victoria actually outlawed the cake for a
period of time in the 1800s for being “sinfully rich”.
I have to conclude that doubters have only ever tried mass-produced commercial fruitcake, the kind with candied chunks of fruit
that glow in the dark. If you like the glowing green bits, then don’t
let me burst your bubble, have at it. But fruitcakes come in so many
different styles. Light cakes can include sultanas, pineapple, apricots, almonds, and a light-coloured cake base. Dark cakes (my
favourite) tend to be denser, with molasses, brown sugar, raisins,
dates, cherries and pecans. My grandmother’s was loaded with highquality dried fruits (none of the candied stuff ) and nuts, drunk
on its own good brandy, with a thick layer of marzipan and royal
icing. Liquor can always be replaced with a fruit juice, pineapple,
orange or apple. If you don’t like marzipan, I don’t think we can
be friends, but go ahead and leave it off. It’s good to be very flexible in your Christmas cake creation. You can even make healthy
fruitcake cookies or bars with whole wheat flour and half the sugar.
(But, honestly, if you go for this option you sound like one of those
people who sneak off to the gym on Thanksgiving while the rest of
us are prying ourselves off the couch for more pie, and we all wish
you would relax a little.) Whichever recipe you choose, just don’t
build it up too much and procrastinate because you have to get
moving on this one. Christmas cake with liquor takes a few weeks
to ‘cure’ after it has been baked, so get cracking.
Now if you’re like me, when you hear cooking advice like “be creative” you want to run away screaming. I am not an insouciant
chef. I hate first-time adventures in the kitchen (get your mind out
of the gutter). When faced with a new and even remotely complicated recipe, the cords in my neck start jutting out until I look
like Eunice Kennedy Shriver, conversation makes me glare, and my
husband has to remind me to breathe. Since “winging it” under
any circumstance gives me a rash, I went recipe hunting. I started
in the basement of my parents’ house, and while I don’t think my
grandmother actually took her recipe to the grave with her, she may
have, because it has vanished from the binder that holds her stained
recipe cards written out in her calligraphic hand.
I found three recipes at the library instead, and the best turned
out to be from Martha Stewart. Now, I’ve always banished Martha
from my kitchen for the simple reason that I believe she’s made her
fortune on the backs of our collective feelings of inadequacy. Since
she published her first book in 1982, one could even say she is in
large part responsible for creating domestic low self-esteem, while
offering up the only plausible solution: buying into her empire in
the form of her cookbooks, TV show, magazine, linens, house-wares,
or some other Martha liferaft. Then she went to prison. And glorybe, if she isn’t so much nicer now! Even that fusty New England
accent has dropped several notches and her newfound earthiness is
almost cool. More importantly, her recipe (from Martha Stewart’s
Christmas Book) is delicious.
My children love it too (yes, I cut off the brandy-soaked crust) and
since fruitcake is basically the original protein bar, it’s a reasonably
healthy snack for them. Even my husband admitted (somewhere
between his second and third slice) that it was the best tasting doorstop he’d ever tried.
I made a few changes to the recipe. I soaked the perkiest dried
fruit I could find in a mixture of fruit juice and brandy for about
24 hours. (If you include dates, do not soak them first, as they get
mushy.) The only candied fruit I included were oranges and citron,
and I skipped her decorative topping of pecans and dried apricots
in favour of a layer of marzipan.
According to culinary lore, the ancient Egyptians buried an early
version of fruitcake with their loved ones (supporting my husband’s
theory that they may indeed last for an eternity). A ring-shaped
cake became common in Roman times, due to portability and shelf
life, making them the perfect accompaniment on the battlefield.
The connection to fruitcake and soldiering remains strong: almost
3,000 pounds of Christmas cake were sent to Iraq in 2006. Over
the centuries, each culture added a little something: honey and
spices were added once the Crusaders brought these back from the
Middle East; in the 1700s the cakes were loaded with nuts; then
sugar came out of the colonies, making the cake even denser.
The result was delicious, and I confess I didn’t exactly let it cure for
six weeks. More like six minutes. But if we can stop sneaking little
chunks every few hours around here, a small wedge might be left
in six weeks so I can see how much better the cake tastes with time.
So, you can’t please all the people, all the time. But since I’m constitutionally prone to trying, I’m going to make a Trinidadian black
cake next. The fruit is soaked in rum for several days and then
mashed, the result is a smooth, spicy cake with no alarming chunks
to startle an already suspicious palate. If black cake doesn’t change
his mind, there are innumerable varieties to try, because like Starbucks, or American Idol spin-offs, fruitcake is a (slightly puzzling)
global phenomenon.
A version of the cake became Twelfth Night cake, part of the raucous
parties on January 5th, celebrating the Epiphany of the Magi. These
parties were more “Spring break on Miami Beach” than anything
relating to three wise men, or a baby in a manger, and were ultimately banned by the Church. Not about to lose out on a sale,
enterprising bakers tossed the lewd decorations in favour of snowy
winter scenes and relabelled the product Christmas cake.
The tradition endures, which may be in part why it is the brunt of
so many jokes: like a drunk party guest who won’t leave, Christmas cake will never go away. The Collin St Bakery in Corsicana,
Texas, produces over one million fruitcakes a year, shipping them
to almost two hundred countries. So I am not alone in my love of
fruitcake, (though I admit I may be more fervent than most). Try
this: on a day when rain whips at the windows and you are tucked
inside under a blanket, stack a slice of Christmas cake, a sliver of
strong cheese, and an apple slice. Follow this with a sip of port.
Heaven, right? I think St. Peter will agree.
Grandma’s Fruitcake recipe is at ediblevancouver.com.
Becky Southwell lives in Steveston with her husband, their two young
children, and the world’s most tolerant dog. She is a connoisseur of
sneaking pureed vegetables into everything. So if you come over for tea
and cookies, consider yourself warned.
The Forerunners
of Pleasure
BY RICK GREEN
Local Hops for Local Beer
Mevlana Rumi said, "Burdens are the foundations of ease and
bitter things the forerunners of pleasure." Rumi could have been
talking about relaxing with a beer after a hard day's work, the bitterness coming from the hops that play a key role in the creation
of a pleasurable beverage. For hundreds of years, we've taken this
for granted. Today, however, the future character of our beer is not
so certain.
Photos: Rick Green
Hops are the female flower cones of a perennial herbaceous bine
native to the Northern Hemisphere. Like seasoning in food, they
comprise a very small amount of a beer's total ingredients, but
make a significant contribution to the overall gustatory effect.
Hops valued for bittering are added early to wort as it boils in the
brew kettle. Finishing hops are varieties valued for their flavour and
aromatic qualities; these are added near the end of the boil. Hops
pitched after the beer has cooled and fermented contribute only to
aroma, thus called aroma hops.
Hops were also found to have superior preservative qualities, advocated by the German abbess, Hildegard von Bingen, as early as the
12th century. A prime example is India Pale Ale, a highly-hopped
beer style formulated in the mid-1700s to survive the lengthy sea
voyage from Britain to the subcontinent.
Hop growing came to British Columbia in the 1860s. The high cost
of importing from San Francisco led Victoria's pioneer brewers to
offer generous cash prizes for successfully growing hops on a commercial scale. Saanich farmers took up the challenge and hop-growing flourished. A hop boom ensued, and by the 1890s, hops were also
grown in Kelowna, Squamish, Vernon, and the Fraser Valley.
By the turn of the century, a severe hop louse infestation and a
decline in international markets had eliminated production in all
but the Fraser Valley. There, hop growing actually increased. The
Chilliwack area was once the largest hop-producing region in the
Commonwealth. At its peak in the 1940s, nearly 2,000 acres were
under cultivation and employed 4,000 workers during picking
season.
By the late 1960s, however, consumer preference shifted to lighter
beer. With higher production costs, demand fell, and the provincial industry steadily declined. The final BC harvest of 300 acres
took place in 1997, at the John I. Haas hop yard in Chilliwack.
North American hop cultivation became concentrated in Oregon
and Washington, representing 25% of world supply.
Limitations of the globalized supply chain became evident ten years
later when a warehouse fire in Yakima, Washington destroyed one
quarter of the American hop supply. Poor harvests in Europe and
the US, combined with declining cultivation and increasing Asian
demand, delivered a serious hop shortage. Small BC breweries were
challenged to secure their hops, especially varieties for hop-intensive
beer styles; they hastily sought substitutes. Tim Brown of Mission
Springs Brewing went as far as New Zealand to meet his needs.
In the competition for hops, the homebrewer is “low man on the
totem pole”. Stuart Evans and Norbert Kaysser of the Royal Canadian Malted Patrol decided to grow their own to meet the limited
needs of themselves and their fellow homebrewers. Now, not only
have they secured their supply, they also have a decorative plant
that provides them with shade from the sun, under which to enjoy
the refreshment it helped create.
Dix BBQ & Brewing
brewmaster Derrick
Franche examines hop
cones at the Sartori
Cedar Ranch nursery.
Steve Forsyth, owner of Vancouver's Railway Club, enjoys a hoppy
India Pale Ale, like those from R & B and Tree on draught at his
club. With spare land near Mission, he decided to support the local
brewers he relies upon by planting a variety of hops on one acre.
After seeing which ones thrive, Forsyth will select the best eight
varieties and expand the hop yard by another half acre. Although
he sees this as more of a hobby than a serious business, his hops are
already spoken for.
One BC brewery growing its own hops is Sorrento's Crannóg Ales.
Crannóg is Canada's only certified organic farmhouse microbrewery. They planted their hops upon opening in 2000; a full crop was
realized in 2002. From that experience, they wrote a manual for
small-scale producers, and sell hop rhizomes to those wanting to
take up growing.
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The most ambitious undertaking in BC is in the quiet shelter of
the Columbia Valley, west of Cultus Lake. Christian Sartori and
Rick Knight (former John I. Haas Hop Co. foreman) planted five
hop varieties in a nursery this year. Next year, they will transplant
them on three acres. It takes approximately three years before a full
crop of 1,400 pounds per acre can be harvested. Sartori and Knight
expect to yield half a crop next September and intend to expand the
farm by another nine acres.
It remains to be seen if BC brewpubs and microbreweries can continue relying upon their traditional suppliers. Within the next two
years, though, they will have some domestic options to choose
from. In the meantime, brewers have been reformulating recipes or
shifting to beer styles that use far fewer hops. Climate change may
wreak havoc upon the world's primary hop-producing regions, but
BC growing conditions are anticipated to improve.
Rick Green is a Vancouver-based beer writer who publishes the BC Beer
Blog. He is currently President of the Campaign for Real Ale Vancouver, and is thinking about starting a hop-op.
Want to buy local? Join the club
By Kimberly Fehr
Ways to buy fresh from the farm
East Vancouver resident Denise Wrathall wanted to buy local food,
so when she found BC bok choy and beets at her local supermarket,
she returned loyally for two weeks. One day she made a point of
telling the manager how pleased she was that they were selling local
produce. “He said, ‘Actually, it’s not from BC. I just didn’t change
the sign.’”
Photos: Kimberly Fehr
Wrathall shakes her head, but since then she’s found a better way.
She joined the Neighbours Organic Weekly Buying Club, which
re-invented itself as a co-op in September (after shutting down last
February). The brief hiatus hasn’t slowed it down—with 18 buying
clubs, it’s well up from the 12 on its roster when it closed.
NOWBC had been operating as a small business since 2005, but
proprietor Grant Watson found he still wasn’t making a living, even
though membership doubled each year from 2005 to 2007. When
he told members he was shutting down, they wouldn’t let him.
“There was huge outcry,” recalls Wrathall. Core members were
really upset, and after much discussion they worked out a way to
transform NOWBC into a co-op, and Watson into the General
Manager. Approximately 50 members like Wrathall contributed
$20 each as seed money to get the co-op going. They started selling
shares for $90 in September, and the first deliveries were made in
October. Customers don’t need to be a shareholder to buy from
NOWBC’s online catalogue, but those who do buy a share will be
eligible for dividends, plus the added reward of knowing they are
putting their money where their mouth is.
“We are building a local food system,” says Watson. “We’re helping
people reduce their carbon footprint with food that has travelled 60
kilometres instead of 2,400 kilometres. It’s healthy, it tastes better
and it’s fresh—our produce is picked the day before we get it. And
we’re building community by working with our neighbours to
create a more sustainable future.”
With Neighbours Organic Weekly, there’s no guessing. Their
website says exactly where their food comes from. When it’s not
local, NOWBC aims to offer the best of the rest. For example, they
get items like wheat products from Alberta, Saskatchewan and the
Peace River area of BC. “Our goal is to have 80 to 90% of the
product from BC,” says Watson, who used to be an organic farmer
himself. “Things that grow in BC, we’ll buy here. If it doesn’t grow
in BC, we’ll look for organic and/or fair trade if it’s possible. It’s
member-driven. Our members would get upset if we had bananas
that weren’t fair-trade in the catalogue.”
Members can place orders online each week, and their goods are
conveniently delivered to a drop-off point local to each buying
club. The system is convenient for Wrathall; she has to walk the
dog anyway so it’s easy for her to pick up her food.
She has also been a member of the Nathan Creek Organic Farm Community Supported Agriculture program (CSA), buying a share of the
crop for the season with a friend. Every week during the growing
season they split a tub of local produce. Last year, members of the
CSA created Keep Agriculture Local and Empowered (KALE), with
the goal of supporting the farmer and building community around
the farm. KALE goes one step further than the CSA—creating a
support system around the farm while trying to engage members of
the CSA into taking more active roles. Everyone who joins the CSA
also becomes a member of KALE. Members share in the farmer’s
successes and failures, and are also encouraged to come and volunteer
for the farm and attend social events. It’s their way of recognizing that
organic farmer Stephen Gallagher has none of the resources of large
farms, and all of the challenges of doing it alone. Gallagher envisions
that eventually it won’t be his farm—it will be the community’s farm.
“KALE aims to create a community for the farm to protect its existence, and help ensure farmers can earn a living from it,” he says.
Organic and
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charcuterie; custom
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orders welcome.
OPEN 6 DAYS A WEEK (CLOSED SUNDAYS)
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KALE board member Derril Gudlaugson has been buying farmdirect since he saw a notice at Mountain Equipment Co-op in 1996.
“At that time the big concern was vegetables grown in contaminated
water in California and Mexico,” recalls Gudlaugson, who lives
cleaning windows and gutters
just got tasty
in Richmond. Now, he says, consumers need to be more discerning than ever. “We don’t know where the nuts in the nut-bar come
from,” he says. “Listeria, melamine. Pick up a product in the grocery
store. For example, sesame-covered pita—it comes from Vietnam. It’s
difficult to know where every ingredient came from. Food safety and
security are major issues. When a tub of vegetables comes from the
farm, I know I can just pick out a carrot and rinse it under the tap
and I don’t even have to peel it. I know that food is pure organic and
there’s nothing that’s going to harm my family from that.”
Many people agree. Since moving last year to an abandoned organic
tree farm leased by the Nature Conservancy, hiring an apprentice
and renting additional land, Gallagher has been able to increase his
capacity. In one year, membership in the CSA has nearly doubled to
125 shares, at which point Gallagher cut it off. The Langley-based
window cleaning • gutter cleaning • power washing
farm now has a waiting list.
1.877.777.KILT (5458) www.meninkilts.net
That means his farm is feeding about 260 people in total. Each week
members receive a tub of produce at various drop-off points around
mention Edible Vancouver and receive a $10 discount
the city. For the 2008 season, it cost $550 for 18 to 20 weeks of
produce during the growing season. “Every week it’s like opening a
treasure chest and seeing what’s inside,” says Gudlaugson. The variety
is far beyond what you find at the local supermarket: yellow carrots,
several different kinds of tomatoes and tah tsoi (an Asian green).
Wrathall was also impressed with the variety, although the down-
big heart.
small footprint.
side is that sometimes members get too much of a certain thing.
But the upside is easy. “You learn what’s local by what is available.
You learn what is in season and what you can freeze. You get a
chance to be connected with the farmer and the life of the farm.
And he had the most amazing mustard greens. They were really
tasty, spicy when raw, and deeply green when cooked. Where else
would you get something like mustard greens? I’d never tried them
before and there they were in my box.”
For information about KALE and Nathan Creek Organic Farm
CSA, visit nathancreek.ca. For information about NOWBC visit
nowbc.ca.
fair trade certified
certified organic
carbon neutral
green facility
locally roasted
Kimberley Fehr is a Vancouver-based writer (and communications
coordinator for the Vancouver Foundation) who doesn’t like food that is
more well-travelled than she is.
ethicalbean.com 604.431.3830
edible Experiment
CONTROL YOUR
TEMPER
By Bambi Edlund
Manhattan may be the home of saucy supermodels wrapped in
sumptuous couture, but for me, it’s the home of salty bacon wrapped
in semisweet chocolate. On my last visit I brought home bars of
bacon chocolate, and the best part has been the reaction—just its
mention elicits a series of facial expressions that cycle through a
wincing yuck, to a thoughtful well, wait a minute now… and end
with an excited oooh, that might be delicious…
And they’re right: it IS.
The only problem? It can’t be purchased in Vancouver. That means
only one thing: make it yourself.
I will warn you: working with chocolate is not for the faint of heart.
If you can’t handle failure, don’t even think about embarking on
this journey, because I can guarantee you that sometimes, no matter
how hard you try, the chocolate WILL win. However, if you enjoy a
challenge, as I do, chocolate can be hugely satisfying. Nightmarishly
tedious at times, sure—but when you produce that perfect piece of
shiny chocolate that doesn’t melt in your hand and has a delightful
snap when broken, you’ll feel like nothing short of a god.
Tempering
The path to the
perfect chocolate is
both salty and sweet.
Chocolate appeals not only to my baker’s sensibilities, but also to
my inner nerd. The science of it is truly fascinating: chocolate is a
substance entirely devoid of moisture—molten chocolate is a completely dry liquid. Wacky. Plus, as melted chocolate cools, the cocoa
butter forms crystals, which can arrange themselves into one of six
patterns, each resulting in a completely different flavour, sheen and
melting point. The arrangement that sets to a hard, glossy, delicious finish can only be reached by heating to a precise temperature
range, cooling a little, and heating a tiny bit more, before cooling
completely. This process is called tempering. Complicated, yes, but
entirely necessary. Even more interesting: introducing a piece of
previously tempered chocolate at a specific step in the process will
“teach” the crystals how to form—the added piece of tempered
chocolate (the seed) acts as a leader for the other crystals, showing
them how to arrange themselves. There are other, more complicated methods, but this seems like the obvious choice to me—sort
of like deciding between teaching a group of wayward seven-yearolds how to read a map and compass, or simply sending in a kid
that knows the route home.
Chocolate that you buy in block, disc or chip form is already tempered, which gives the chocolate its solid, shiny and hard consistency, and also makes it resistant to bloom, the whitish coating that
sometimes forms on the outside of chocolate. Bloom is a result of
temperature changes or moisture contact. It is harmless and does
not mean the chocolate has gone bad—but it will cause a more
chalky or grainy consistency (chocolate with bloom is perfectly fine
for baking or melting).
Untempered chocolate melts at temperatures as low as 65°F (which
means it will melt to a runny mess the moment you touch it),
whereas the exact same chocolate, after tempering, will melt at
around 95°F. However, tempering is fraught with potential hazards:
chocolate heated just 5 degrees too high can scorch, changing its
consistency and flavour; and chocolate that comes in contact with
even the tiniest bit of moisture can seize, which means it almost
instantly becomes a lumpy mess than cannot be brought back to
its former glory. But with a few precautions and a “try, try again”
attitude, you will be turning out beautiful treats in no time.
Tempering is temporary—the resulting gloss and snap lasts only until
the chocolate is melted again, at which point the tempering process
must begin at square one. There are a few ways to arrive at perfectly
tempered chocolate, but I will be sharing what I have found the
easiest way to make small batches successfully in my own kitchen.
The supplies
Photos: Philip Solman
• Good-quality chocolate, either in a block (chopped into small
pieces so it melts evenly), or in discs. Many chocolate chips are
made with lower-quality vegetable oil rather than cocoa butter,
which means they will behave differently. Best to read the ingredients and choose a high quality chip.
• Bacon and smoked sea salt, if you’re going to create the salty-andsweet heavenly combo. For best results, fry a few strips of goodquality bacon (I used Hertel’s) until very crisp, wrap in a paper
towel, and place in a sealed plastic bag. Put the bag in the freezer
overnight. Once the bacon has been frozen it will still be tasty, but
will be dry rather than greasy. Crumble into very small pieces.
The tools
• A double boiler, or a small pot and a larger diameter metal or
glass bowl (preferably with a wide lip around the top edge to
keep steam away from the chocolate) that will sit securely on top
of the pot.
• A food thermometer with a clear reading of 75 to 125°F (a thermometer specifically for tempering chocolate is best, as it shows
this temperature range in detail).
• A heat-resistant silicone spatula (beware that many of the
common white-tipped spatulas are not heat resistant).
• Moulds for your finished chocolates (Charlie’s Chocolate Factory
on Canada Way in Burnaby sells a huge assortment of moulds, as
well as good-quality chocolate).
The tempering process
A few caveats to keep in mind:
• The smallest amount of moisture can cause chocolate to seize;
even a damp utensil or a puff of steam can ruin a batch of chocolate. Make sure that anything that will come in contact with the
chocolate, like a spatula or thermometer, is completely dry.
• Reserve some of the purchased chocolate in its original state.
Start out by keeping 1⁄3 aside—this will be your “seed”. You won’t
need to add all of it, but if you have to try the process a few times,
you’ll still have enough seed chocolate left.
• Because milk chocolate contains milk solids and more sugar, it
behaves slightly differently, and cannot be taken to temperatures
quite as high as dark chocolate can withstand.
The basic tempering guidelines are:
• Milk chocolate: Heat to 115 to 118°F; cool to 80°F;
reheat to 85 to 87°F.
Place the bowl over the pot of water and turn heat on low. Add
chocolate pieces and stir gently until they are completely melted.
Clip the thermometer to the side of the bowl so that the tip is
in the chocolate but not in contact with the bottom of the bowl
(which will give an inaccurate reading), and allow to slowly rise to
118°F. As soon as the chocolate is nearing that range, pull the bowl
from the pot carefully, avoiding the steam. Leave the heat on, as
you will need this hot water again soon. Stir constantly with the
spatula (fold rapidly but gently, to avoid air bubbles). Add a few
of your tempered chocolate pieces, or one larger chunk, as your
seed, and keep stirring until the temperature drops to 80°F. If you
still have chunks of unmelted seed chocolate in the bowl at this
point, remove them. Place the bowl back over the pot and return
the chocolate to 88°F. It is now ready to use.
To test the temper, dribble a few thin lines on a piece of wax paper
or parchment and place in the refrigerator for a few minutes. The
chocolate should snap when broken (rather than bend before
breaking), and should not melt at the touch of your fingers. If it
didn’t set properly, try lowering to 80°F and back to 88°F again. If
you still don’t get the hard and glossy result, it’s time to start again.
Luckily, chocolate can be melted and tempered over and over again,
as long as it hasn’t scorched or seized. If it doesn’t work the first
time, simply repeat the process.
If the test strips have a good glossy finish and a healthy snap, then
congratulations! You are ready to make chocolates. Use a spoon to fill
your moulds, or you can put the chocolate into a pastry bag—just be
sure to use it very quickly, before the temperature falls too much.
Fill the moulds halfway with chocolate, and sprinkle with a pinch
of bacon and smoked sea salt. Top with enough chocolate to fill the
mould (make sure all of the bacon has been covered by chocolate).
Tap the mould on the table a few times to dislodge any bubbles,
and let sit until hard, usually about an hour. If the chocolate was
tempered properly, they should pop easily out of the moulds, and
be glossy and delicious. And bacon-y.
• Dark chocolate: Heat to 118 to 120°F; cool to 80°F;
reheat to 88 to 91°F.
Try to save at least one to share with others.
So, how to go about this heating and cooling? In this example I will
use dark chocolate temperatures. Use the slightly lower temperatures listed above if you are working with milk chocolate.
Bambi Edlund has what can only be described as a salt tooth, and
therefore is endlessly thankful for the current fancy-schmancy-salt-ineverything trend. Let’s keep it going, says she.
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34926 Great idea 08.indd 1
8/11/08 5:20:53 PM
field NOTES
Taxing Farmers
Off The Land
By Jeff Nield
Nobody likes paying taxes. But for about 100 farmers
in Saanich, opening their 2007 property tax notice was
especially unpleasant. BC Assessment had determined
that their properties are “split use” between farm and
residential. Most of the farmers had been paying only
farm taxes for years, and the new split assessment could
easily add thousands of dollars to their tax bill. Considering the aging farm population (which averages 54-57
years, depending on where you get your numbers), it’s
a wonder no one suffered a heart attack.
It shakes down like this. In recognition of the importance of farms in our communities, tax rates are set
lower for land that is classified as farmland. This tax
break is one of the things that keep small-scale and
hobby farmers farming. A split tax assessment breaks
the land up, based on how much is actually being used
for farming, with the rest being classified as residential.
In many cases the land that is deemed residential is
completely unsuitable for agriculture because it is forested or ecologically sensitive.
“It would almost be easier to not have a farm,” says Doug Downs
of Eagle Eye Acres. Downs, who raises chickens for meat and eggs,
was one of the farmers hit with a split assessment. He’s had full farm
status since he bought his 4.38-acre piece of land seven years ago.
“I have people who cross town to buy my eggs,” he says. In order
to keep those customers supplied, and to maintain his farming lifestyle, Downs appealed the assessment that would increase his yearly
tax bill by at least $2000. After reading the farm status regulations,
Downs was sure he would win. “I have a primary source of agriculture, there is only one house on the property, and the rest of the
land has no use,” he explains. “But I was worried that they couldn’t
let me win because it would set a precedent.” After a few phone
calls and two written appeals, Downs property was reassessed as
farm only. “If they had won I would have quit farming.”
On the surface it looks like a simple tax grab, but the route to
the split assessment is a bit more circuitous. For years, farmland
defenders have been saying that speculators holding onto land
and waiting for a big payday down the road shouldn’t get farm tax
status, because they’re not farming the land. Instead of going after
the speculator, provincial assessors went after working farms, both
big and small, and split the land by its respective use. Some of the
farmers affected feel that this is just a roundabout way of putting
more land in the hands of developers. “Maybe they’ll come back
and say, ‘there’s too much confusion’, and they’ll just change the
law,” speculates Downs. As his successful appeal proves, the current
regulations will make it difficult for split tax assessments to hold up.
The worry is that BC Assessment will make the regulations more
explicit about what is and isn’t farm use. This could cause many
small farmers to lose their farm tax status—and any economic
incentive to producing food.
“This is just one more hurdle and it may be the one that puts the
farmer out of business,” says Lynn (Fairall) Perrin, long-time advocate of the Agricultural Land Reserve, and recent graduate of the SFU
Master of Public Policy Program. While studying policies to promote
farmers’ markets, Perrin identified a number of onerous bureaucratic
issues that make farming difficult, including split taxes.
Photo: Carole Topalian
Along with the economic burden, Perrin says that pushing farmers
to put every square foot of their land into production is risky. “This
is what caused the avian flu epidemic,” she explains. “Exhaust from
infected barns went into non-infected barns because they were too
close.” Split taxes aren’t responsible for the bird flu, but it demonstrates how government policies and regulations can negatively
influence farming practices.
The provincial government is paying some attention to farmers’
concerns. In December 2007, the Minister of Small Business and
Revenue committed to a review of current farm assessment policies. A review panel was formed, with members from around the
province representing various sectors of the agriculture community.
Along with concerns about split assessments, farmers are burdened
with what they say is an unnecessary bureaucratic process that has
them applying for farm status every year, instead of it rolling over
from the previous year. “The purpose of the meetings is for the
general public and farmers to bring concerns to make assessment
simpler,” says panel member Heloise Dixon-Warren from Moose
Meadows Farm in Quesnel. She hopes that people who weren’t able
to attend will continue to send in written submissions.
The final product of the panel will put the findings in a report for
government. And while it’s impossible to say if any of the recommendations from the panel will be implemented, they have already
had some influence. In June, the panel presented some interim recommendations, including a moratorium on any changes to farm
assessments. This allows farms that had status in 2008 to maintain
that status for the 2009 assessment. Let’s hope that our provincial government follows up on their promises to support local food
systems and helps keep our local farmers on the land.
To send in a written submission to the review panel and to view
notes from the sessions visit the Farm Assessment Review website
at farmassessmentreview.ca.
Jeff Nield, based in Vancouver, works with FarmFolk/CityFolk to
cultivate a local, sustainable food system. farmfolkcityfolk.ca
Why eat local?
Where to eat local?
How to eat local?
Visit
getlocalbc.org
and get local!
Get Local is a partnered project
of FarmFolk/CityFolk and the
Vancouver Farmers Markets.
church-made
Comfort
food
By Debbra Mikaelsen
St. Mary volunteers making perogies by hand
Perogies are the flannel
pyjamas of the culinary scene
slaw, coffee or tea and ice cream. Their cabbage rolls and perogies
have always been vegetarian. “People are amazed at how good our
cabbage rolls taste without meat.”
I’ve noticed that very sophisticated people don’t admit to loving
carbs. After all, these are the flannel pyjamas of the culinary scene,
when the really cool menus are glitzed up with slinky, strappy dishes,
like micro greens tossed with pomegranate vinaigrette and sablefish
wrapped in spinach. But there are days—especially gloomy, soggy
winter days—when a plate of buttery perogies smothered in sour
cream and fried onions is precisely what the heart and belly desire.
The St. Mary perogies are handmade, using real ingredients, under
the watchful eye of Nettie Holonko. She purchases the groceries,
organizes the volunteers, makes the dough, and oversees production. “She gets our potatoes and cabbage from Mary’s Garden or
a farm in Chilliwack,” says Kathy. “We peel the potatoes ourselves
and make our own sauerkraut. The sausages are made and smoked
especially for us by a local family business.”
Those in the know worship at the temple of carbs on the first Friday
of every month in Vancouver, the third Friday in Richmond, or
the last Friday and first Saturday in Surrey. These regular perogy
dinners are hosted by the BC Ukrainian Cultural Festival and run
by volunteers (predominantly female, average age of 80) to raise
funds for the Church.
Kathy is proud of the quality that Nettie and the St. Mary women
serve. “My mom is an extremely good cook, and she says our perogies are the best she’s had in a church.” Be warned; most of the
women agree that once you’ve had homemade, you’ll lose your taste
for commercially produced perogies. They all get a dreamy look
on their faces when they talk about Nettie’s borscht, the best most
of them have had. (Nettie shares her recipe with Edible Vancouver
readers on page 6).
Kathy Miske, Parish President of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church
of St. Mary, says they feed between 250 and 300 people at each
Surrey event. In belt-tightening times, the church dinners offer
a budget-friendly dinner out, although there’s no point in literally tightening your belt before (or after) a feast like this. Prices
range from $7 for a Mini Meal to $12 for the Super, and consist of
perogies, cabbage rolls, sausage (or a vegetarian substitution), cole26 | edible vancouver winter 2008
The perogy (a.k.a. perogi or pierogi) is a mainstay of Ukrainian,
Russian and Polish cuisine, prevalent in many Slavic countries,
and enjoyed at numerous Canadian tables. Its extended family is
thought to include such noble members as the Italian ravioli, the
Japanese gyoza and the Chinese wonton. What a wonderfully cozy
lineage. Canada’s western provinces especially are rich in Ukrainian
heritage, and subsequently abundant in perogies, but I was a fussy
child, and our Ukrainian neighbour called her perogies ‘pedihare’,
something that sounded alarmingly like pet-hair. So I didn’t accept
her invitations to dinner, and somehow made it into my twenties
before ever tasting a perogy. Today this admission makes me feel as
un-Canadian as having never seen a hockey game.
The word perogy comes from the Proto-Slavic pir, for festivity, and
since the most common perogies are half-moons of dough stuffed
with potato (often with cheese, onion or sauerkraut), the celebration in question must surely have been for one of my best friends:
the Patron Saint of Simple Starches. It’s the ultimate comfort food,
and one born out of practicality. Kathy says that her Ukrainian
ancestors relied on wheat and potatoes because they were commonly
available. “Meat was a luxury, for Christmas and Easter only.”
Perogies are never going to eat all fresh and sparkly. They’re never
going to feel like a green salad (and thank the gods for that). But
they don’t have to be starch upon starch. If you’re not quite convinced about the undeniably dense combination of dough with
potato filling, consider the more elegant carrot and brie-stuffed
morsels at Habit Lounge in Vancouver. It might be a stretch to call
them sexy, but there’s no denying that they are lustily seductive.
Photos: Philip Solman
They’re also a reminder that an inspired cook could stuff these little
dumplings with virtually anything. There’s no perogy bible or contract that lists potatoes as an essential ingredient. Beets with goat
cheese? Pear, stilton and hazelnuts? Roast pumpkin with gruyere?
Kathy likes the sound of brie with cranberries, although she’s never
tried it. However, she does agree that the dough is just a container
for whatever filling you want—just avoid anything that’s too wet.
There are even dessert varieties filled with fruit. “Blueberry perogies
are one of my favourites,” she says.
I’ve yet to try the fruit versions, but I can say that when the
rain is thick and the night is cold, carbs and cheese wrapped in
more carbs are about as comforting as Linus’s security blanket.
To find authentic, church-made perogies near you, visit
vcn.bc.ca/bcucf/perogy.html
Debbra Mikaelsen honestly was born in Canada. She has now eaten
more perogies than she’d care to count, but she has still never seen a
hockey game.
Traditional Perogies
Dough:
6 cups all-purpose flour
1 egg
1
⁄4 cup melted butter
2 to 21⁄2 cups warm water
Filling:
6 large baking potatoes peeled, cooked and mashed (Russets
are excellent)
11⁄2 cups grated medium cheddar cheese
Salt to taste
Make the filling by adding grated cheddar cheese to the hot,
mashed lump-free potatoes. Mix well and cool.
Add the melted butter to the flour and mix thoroughly. Add the
egg to 2 cups of warm water and mix well. Add to the flour
mixture and mix until dough is smooth and soft and pulls away
from mixing bowl. Then add up to 1⁄2 cup more warm water as
required if the dough appears dry. Place in a lightly oiled bowl,
turning dough over so the top is also lightly oiled to prevent a
crust on top. Cover with a clean cloth. Let the dough rest for
an hour or more.
On a floured board roll out the dough a little thinner than for a
pie crust, and cut out circles with a round cookie cutter. Place 1
heaping tsp of filling onto each round, folding it over to form a
half circle, and pinching the edges together to seal in the filling.
Place on a clean towel until all the dough is used. At this point
perogies can be cooked. Or freeze them individually, then pack
in freezer bags for future use.
To cook: Add the perogies to a pot of boiling water. Do not
crowd the pot. Stir a few times with a wooden spoon to prevent
sticking. When the perogies are cooked they will float to the
top. Continue cooking gently for a few more minutes. Remove
carefully to a colander, rinse with cool water and drain. Serve
with melted butter, sour cream and onions that have been
finely chopped and sautéed in butter.
What the Girls Are Drinking
Forgive us, Bacchus, for the girls (and honorary girls) have sinned. We have heard the word
wine and thought only grape. We have overlooked fruit
wines—no, worse. We may even have sneered, once,
but now we have seen the light.
Here’s the thing about drinking fruit wine: you almost
have to forget the second word. It’s unfair to taste it
expecting a pinot gris or merlot. Just sniff, sip, savour,
and ask yourself: Was that yummy? And yes, we thought
that these four were.
Forbidden Fruit Pearsuasion: A dry white made with certified organically grown Bartletts. It’s very pear, with a light
citrus note. Chilled, it sips nicely solo, and is quite wow with
a bit of gouda and the heat of some mango chutney.
Forbidden Fruit Adam’s Apple: Inhale and be transported to
an apple orchard in autumn. It’s juicy and refreshing on its
own, and excellent with salami and strong cheeses. “Tasty.
I’d encourage others who might pooh-pooh fruit wines to
try it,” said one drinker. The consensus: anyone who enjoys
a dry, English style cider will probably love this wine.
Wellbrook Blueberry Wine: A surprisingly gorgeous bouquet
of floral notes, toffee and caramel. The drinkers all found this
one the closest to a traditional (red) grape wine, although it
is intensely berry. “I love it!” One taster wondered where he
could get a bottle of his own. The answer: Wellbrook sells
only at their own Old Grainery Store in Delta, but it’s worth
a trip: the farm is full of character and you can taste their
other wines while you’re there.
Wellbrook Fortified Blackberry: The fragrance is a wave
of rich, jammy fruit, like the crushed wild blackberries of
a late-summer foraging adventure. It begs to be paired with
chocolate mousse, crème brulee or cheesecake, but its intense
flavour is almost a dessert by itself. Decadent! (Try with the
Chocolate Pots du Crème, page 5.)
wellbrookwinery.com
forbiddenfruitwines.com
What the boys Are Drinking
This regular department puts local brews in front of
without any of that resulting heaviness. Overall, a
opinionated people who enjoy a good beer. We give
mild, sunny lager that’s likeable in that friendly, beer-
them pens and bowls of those perfectly seasoned, fan-
next-door sort of way.
tastically crispy Hardbite chips (from Maple Ridge!),
Dead Frog Pale Ale:
and oddly enough, most of the time they don’t want to
go home. This time the boys and pretend-boys sampled
a few from Dead Frog, craft-brewers in Aldergrove.
They immediately took a shine to the old-style bottle
and the embossed logo that uses less paper. These beers
A deliciously bronze brew with a big, creamy head and
a slightly bitter flavour. It’s clean and uncomplicated,
with virtually no aftertaste, and enjoyable “from nose
to stomach.”
are easy-drinking and extremely likeable, with subtle
Dead Frog Nut Brown Ale:
flavours that would pair well with food.
A hint of chocolate in the nose is followed by a big,
Dead Frog Lager:
complex, almost woodsy flavour that “holds for a good
This pours out with a pleasant, somewhat toasty
long time”. Hands-down the most popular of the
aroma. The flavour is smooth, almost fruity, with a
three frogs, even with those who wouldn’t normally
nutty finish. The light effervescence made the boys
consider themselves fans of the nut brown style.
confident that they could easily knock back a few,
deadfrogbrewery.com
Source guide: Where to find
Businesses with * distribute Edible Vancouver. For a list of distributors visit ediblevancouver.com
“bringing the best organic & natural foods to the drive”
1045 Commercial Drive
604.678.9665 • [email protected]
ediblevancouver.com
a great place to hang out
more seasonal recipes
more edible events
more local stories
sign up online for
local food news,
special offers &
last minute deals
Baked Goods
HOLIDAY MARKET
Vancouver Farmers Markets celebration of food
*THE SPELT BAKERY
“Vancouver’s Original Spelt Bakery” has moved and art. Dec 13 & 14. Heritage Hall—15th
and grown. Started in 1998, we produce some & Main Street, Vancouver. $2. eatlocal.org
of the finest Spelt baked goods in the world
Farmers’ Markets
using organic Canadian grown and milled
*WINTER
FARMERS MARKET
Spelt flour. 2141 East Hastings, Vancouver.
Eat local, even during the winter months.
604-258-2726. thespeltbakery.ca
Alternate Saturdays Nov 8–April 25 from
*FIELDSTONE ARTISAN BREADS
10am–2pm. WISE Hall, 1882 Adanac
Step into Fieldstone and be transported to a Street at Victoria Drive. 604-879-FARM.
Parisian boulangerie... Fieldstone creates ex- eatlocal.org
ceptional artisan breads, decadent pastries
Financial Services
and elegant cakes using certified organic
VANCITY
flours, filtered water and local, seasonal ingredients. #2-12823 Crescent Road, South Canada’s largest credit union helps people
Surrey. 604-531-7880. fieldstonebread.ca and communities thrive and prosper. We do
this by providing the very best in financial
CASA DEL PANE
products and services from 59 branches serving
Are you craving Italy? Come and experience
over 390,000 members. Commercial Drive
3 generations of traditional Italian baking
Community Branch 1675 Commercial Drive,
in the heart of Newport Village, Port Moody.
Vancouver. 604-877-7123. vancity.com
Fresh-baked bread, cakes, pastries, and a
wide range of deli items. 604-469-7263.
Foodie Destinations
242 Newport Drive, Port Moody
NIMBUS RESTAURANT
Nimbus offers creative upscale dining with
Beer
chef’s
tasting menus, a lively late-night
LIGHTHOUSE BREWING COMPANY
Brewer of premium quality, craft brewed ales and menu and seasonal cocktails in a striking
top-of-the-tower downtown setting. 119 N.
lagers, with styles to suit any palette or cuisine.
Commercial
St., 15th Floor, Bellingham.
Look for us at your favourite pubs, eateries and
liquor stores. Unit 2-836 Devonshire Rd. Victoria. 360-676-1307. nimbusrestaurant.com
1-866-862-7500. lighthousebrewing.com
Cafes, Coffee & Tea
ETHICAL BEAN COFFEE
Ethical Bean Coffee roasts only the finest, fair
trade certified organic coffee. We’re passionate
about making both a positive social and environmental impact, while maintaining the highest
quality standards. Carbon neutral. Vancouver,
BC. 604-431-3830. ethicalbean.com
WILLOWS INN
True farm to table dining at one of the most
sought after B&Bs and agritourism destinations in the San Juan Islands. 2579 West
Shore Dr. Lummi Island, WA.
1-888-294-2620. willows-inn.com
Food Retailers
*EAST END FOOD CO-OP
Vancouver’s longest serving co-operative grocer
is the local food store for the larger community.
*CASA DOLCE
Visit us and say Edible Vancouver sent you for We emphasize buying local, healthy organic
and fair-trade products. A member driven,
10% off our fabulous range of locally made
unionized shop where all shoppers are welDaniel chocolates. Also, serving Italy’s finest
come! 1034 Commercial Drive, Vancouver.
Illy coffee, decadent deserts, perfect panini
604-254-5044. east-end-food.coop
and authentic artisan gelato. 604-461-7888.
252 Newport Drive, Port Moody. Coal
*CAPERS WHOLE FOODS MARKET
Harbour address closed for renovation
We strive to offer the highest quality,
least processed, most flavourful, naturally
Caterers
preserved foods. Why? Because food in its
MANDALA CATERING PRODUCTIONS
purest state—unadulterated by artificial
Gourmet macrobiotic cuisine infused with
sweeteners, colourings and preservatives—
French Mediterranean elegance. Chef Nancy
Cameron, graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Paris will is the best tasting and most nutritious food
available. wholefoodsmarket.com
create a bountiful feast guaranteed to arouse
passion. Private cooking, classes and consulta- *THE PUBLIC MARKET ON GRANVILLE ISLAND
tions. 778-280-3858. mandalacatering.com
Whether it’s produce or flowers, meat or
7960 Winston Street Burnaby, BC
604-421-2711
www.thenewmanhattan.com
fish, tea or coffee, pies or pastries, or even
*THE NEW MANHATTAN CATERING & DELI
Party food should seduce the eye before it ca- breads or bagels, shop the Public Market
for the finest products from the people who
resses the palate. Our stunning presentation
is surpassed only by a delicate balance of the know them best. Open until 7pm, 7 days a
freshest flavours… Winner of Burnaby Now’s week. granvilleisland.com
2008 Reader’s Choice Award for Best Caterer.
*DRIVE ORGANICS
7960 Winston Street, Burnaby.
Bringing the best organic and natural food
604-421-2711. thenewmanhattan.com
to the Drive. We carry an abundance of local,
Edible Events
seasonal produce, plus groceries from other
local companies. Open Seven Days per
YULETIDE ON GRANVILLE ISLAND
Week 9am-9pm. 1045 Commercial Drive,
Chase the Gingerbread Boy. Every Sat and
Sun in December. granvilleisland.com
Vancouver. 604-678-9665
Juice
BREMNER’S
A Fraser Valley farming family that bring you
pure blueberries, cranberries and premium
fruit juices. 2.5lbs of berries in every bottle…
and that’s all. Look out for our New Organic
Blackberry juice. bremnerfoods.com
*O’DELISH—FAST • FRESH • TO GO
Delicious, nutritious, home-cooked meals to go.
High quality ingredients, no preservatives or additives. A healthy alternative to fast food. Lunchon-the-run and baked goods too. 10% discount
for mentioning Edible Vancouver. 14620 64th
Ave. Surrey. 778-565-4678. odelish.ca
Meat
*SEBASTIAN & CO. FINE ORGANIC MEATS
Local family business offering certified organic
and naturally raised meats, 40-day dry-aged
beef, exotic game (bison, venison, wild boar,
fowl) and all natural handmade sausages.
Custom cuts and special orders welcome. 2425
Marine Dr. West Vancouver. 604-925-1636.
Closed Sundays. sebastianandco.ca
Specialty Retailers
TEN THOUSAND VILLAGES
Fairly traded food products, gift items, home
décor and much more. Gifts that give twice.
1204 Commercial Dr. Vancouver 604-323-9233
929 Denman St. Vancouver 604-683-0929
2909 W Broadway, Vancouver 604-730-6831
1387 Marine Dr. West Vancouver
604-913-0844. tenthousandvillages.ca
HILLS FOODS
We are a local, family business that supplies
organic meats, game meats and specialty
poultry to chefs, restaurants, retailers and
wholesalers. Find us at your local store, or at:
1-130 Glacier St. Coquitlam. 604-472-1500.
[email protected] hillsfoods.com
Wines & Wineries
TINHORN CREEK VINEYARDS
Tinhorn Creek has embraced a multifaceted
stewardship approach to protect the critters
in the vineyards and the environment in our
care. The Land Conservancy has recognized
us as a Conservation Partner. Oliver, BC.
1-888-484-6467. tinhorn.com
Organics Home Deliveries
*LADYBUG ORGANICS HOME DELIVERY & STORE
Experience our satisfying selection of organic *WELLBROOK WINERY
Enter The Old Grainery Store at the Wellbrook
& natural foods. Order online for deliveries
from Hope to Vancouver or visit our store. Your Winery in Delta and experience the turn-of-thecentury atmosphere combined with distinctive
connection to local produce. #1B 9525 189th
quality wines. Why not drop by for an
Street, Surrey. 604-513-8971 or toll free
afternoon adventure? 4626 88th Street, Delta.
1-888-284-8728. ladybugorganics.com
604-946-1868. wellbrookwinery.com
Organizations
Wine Stores
SPCA CERTIFIED
*BELLEVUE WINE COMPANY
Want to eat ethically? Look for the ‘red barn’
West Vancouver’s specialty retailer of BC
logo on SPCA Certified foods. In 2002 the BC
wines at LDB/winery prices. 1471 Bellevue
SPCA developed this important program. It
Ave. West Vancouver. 604-913-0802.
remains one of the only farm animal welfare
bellevuewine.com
certification programs in Canada.
1245 East 7 Ave. Vancouver. 604-681-7271. *THE WINE EMPORIUM
spca.bc.ca/farm
Best BC wines at par with Government Liquor
Store prices. #500–22259 48th Ave. Langley.
FARM FOLK/CITY FOLK SOCIETY
A non-profit society focusing on issues affect604-532-5388. wine-emporium.com
ing food producers and consumers. Our three
*VILLAGE WINES
programs are protecting farmland, supporting
Vancouver’s original BC wine stores, Village
farmers and producers, and connecting farm
and city through education, celebration and in- Wines carry over 500 B.C VQA wines
including a large selection of icewines and
spiration. 604-730-0450. farmfolkcityfolk.ca
dessert wines. Complimentary tastings are
GREEN ZEBRA
held Saturdays, please see our website
Green Zebra makes it easy to live sustainfor details. 3050 Edgemont Blvd. North
ably in Vancouver. More than 250 coupons.
Vancouver 604-985-9463.
Thousands of dollars in savings. Discover
3536 W 41st Ave. Vancouver 604-269-9433.
eco-friendly retailers. Green Zebra proceeds 1811 W 1st Ave. Vancouver 604-732-8827.
support TB Vets Charitable Foundation.
villagevqawines.com
greenzebraguide.ca
*SIP WINES
Seafood
All you could ever want to know about BC
*SUPERIOR FISH MARKET
wines. Ironwood Plaza, Unit 1030–11660
A fifth-generation fishing family bringing you Steveston Hwy. Richmond. 604-271-9463.
the freshest fish possible. Also, a wide sesipwines.ca
lection of wild game, organic meats, Rogers
*KENSINGTON
SQUARE WINES
Chocolate and many more locally produced
products. We support BC whenever possible. We offer the best BC wines all in one place.
6626-B Hastings St. Burnaby. 604-294-9573.
Trenant Park Square, 5229 Ladner Trunk
kensingtonsquarewines.com
Road, Ladner. 604-946-2097
Services
MEN IN KILTS
Cleaning windows and gutters just got tasty.
Residential, strata and commercial. Mention
Edible Vancouver and receive a $10 discount.
BBB Accredited, 100% Clean Guarantee
and yes, we do wear kilts. No peeking!
1.877.777.KILT (5458). meninkilts.net
*EVERYTHING WINE
BC’s largest wine store. Enjoy shopping in a relaxed atmosphere where service, selection, and
value are our priority. Qualified staff will help
you select a wine that suits your needs. 998
Marine Dr. North Vancouver. 604-929-7277.
#131-2401 Millstream Road, Langford.
250-474-3959. everythingwine.ca
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finish
a.
j.
i.
b.
How many names can you match to the photos?
h.
leek
carrot
sunchoke
Brussels sprouts
parsnip
radish
curly kale
red cabbage
swiss chard
beet
Think you’re so smart? Now try the Latin:
Helianthus tuberosus
Brassica oleracea var. sabellica
Daucus carota
Beta vulgaris var. flavescens
Pastinacia sativa
Brassica oleracea var. fruticosa
g.
Raphanus sativus
c.
Allium porrum
Beta vulgaris var. conditiva
Brassica oleracea var. capitata rubra
f.
e.
d.
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EdibleLosAngeles.com
EdibleLowcountry.com (SC)
EdibleManhattan.com
EdibleMemphis.com
EdibleMissoula.com
EdibleNutmeg.com (CT)
EdibleOjai.com (CA)
EdiblePhilly.com
EdiblePhoenix.com
EdiblePiedmont.com (NC)
EdiblePioneerValley.com
EdiblePortland.com (OR)
EdibleRhody.com (RI)
EdibleSacramento.com
EdibleSanDiego.com
EdibleSanFrancisco.net
EdibleSantaBarbara.com
EdibleSantaFe.com
EdibleSeattle.net
EdibleShastaButte.com (CA)
EdibleSouthShore.com (MA)
EdibleToronto.com
EdibleTwinCities.com
EdibleVancouver.com
EdibleWOW.com (SE Mich)
�= Coming Soon
Welcome
to your neighbourhood fish market
and discover…
1. Incredible selection – vast array of fresh
and frozen selections including the best
seasonal local and wild choices.
2. Specially trained, passionate fishmongers
ready to serve you with advice on seafood
choices, cooking tips and recipes.
3. Seafood certified sustainable by the
Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), an
independent, global, non-profit organization
established to ensure healthier marine
environments and abundant fish stocks
for future generations.
5
4. Strict Quality Standards for Aquaculture
developed in partnership with scientists
and environmentalists that prohibit
the use of preservatives, antibiotics,
and added growth hormones.
$ OFF
your SeaFood
purChaSe oF
$25 or More
Capers Whole Foods Market - Robson
1675 Robson Street, Vancouver 604-687-5288
Capers Whole Foods Market - Olive
3277 Cambie Street, Vancouver 604-909-2988
Capers Whole Foods Market - Kitsilano
2285 West 4th Avenue, Vancouver 604-739-6676
Whole Foods Market - Park Royal Village
925 Main Street, West Vancouver 604-678-0500
www.wholefoodsmarket.com
pLu 60009
#
One per customer. No cash value. Not valid with any other discount offer. Void if
duplicated. Must purchase $25 worth of seafood. Not valid on purchases of gift
cards. Valid for Vancouver Metro stores only, december 1, 2008 thru april 1, 2009.
5. Traceability of our seafood from the
source all the way to the store through
our partnerships with fisherman and
farmers who are committed to your
health, the environment and the
integrity of our oceans.
6. Fish just off the boat delivered directly to
our own processing facility located in the
Pacific Northwest allowing us to have the
freshest fish to you within 24 hours.
Whether it’s wild-caught or farmed,
fresh or frozen everything in our seafood
department adheres to our strict
Quality Standards which are the
highest in the industry.
Now that’s a catch you can count on.

edible VANCOUVER - Edible Communities

Transcription

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