Vendor Handbook - Vendor Documents

Transcription

Vendor Handbook
INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Welcome Letter from the President
Vendor Handbook Acknowledgment
Employee Contacts
Appleseed’s & The Tog Shop Contact List by department
i-1
i-2
i-3
i-4, i-5, i-6
Section A–Merchandise Procedures
Letter to our Suppliers
Branded/Private Label Style Fact Sheet (Appleseed's)
Branded/Private Label Style Fact Sheet (Tog Shop)
Import Development Fabric/Yarn Selections & Documentation
Fabric Detail From
Color Approval Process Lab Dip Submission Form
Bulk Submission Form
Garment Quality Requirements Sample Requirements Preshipment Program For Domestic Accessories/Gifts Sample Tag Sample Tag Examples Photo Sample Request Form (Appleseed's) Photo Sample Request Form (Tog Shop)
Label Supplier Information Garment Labeling Requirements Labeling Requirements: Sewn-In Labels
Labeling Requirements: Heat-Transfer Labels (Appleseed's)
Labeling Requirements: Heat-Transfer Labels (Tog Shop)
Labeling Requirements: Monterey Bay
Labeling Requirements: Heat-Transfer Labels (Monterey Bay)
Label Placement For Jackets/Tops/Shirts/Dresses/Etc (Appleseed’s)
Label Placement For Pants (Appleseed’s) Label Placement For Skirts (Appleseed’s) Label Placement For Coats (Appleseed’s) Label Placement For Jackets/Tops/Shirts/Dresses/Etc (Tog Shop)
Label Placement For Pants (Tog Shop)
Label Placement For Skirts (Tog Shop) Label Placement For Coats (Tog Shop) Packaging Information for Private Label and Direct Imports
Carton Labeling & ASN Requirements Vendor Handbook
Spring, 2016
A-1
A-2
A-3
A-4
A-5
A-6
A-7
A-8
A-9
A-14
A-16
A-17
A-18
A-19
A-20
A-21
A-23
A-24
A-25
A-26
A-27
A-29
A-30
A-32
A-33
A-34
A-35
A-37
A-38
A-39
A-40
A-40
INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section B–How To Measure
Appleseed's & The Tog Shop Size Specifications.............................................................. B-1
1. Basic Guidelines....................................................................................................... B-2
2. Measuring Foundation............................................................................................. B-2
Laying the garment properly and establishing key measuring points is the foundation for
correctly measuring a garment. Please review this section before measuring a garment.
a. High Point Shoulder (HPS)................................................................................B-3
b. Shoulder Forward................................................................................................B-3
c. Imaginary Line (IL).............................................................................................B-4
d. Bias Garments ....................................................................................................B-4
3. Garment Lengths
a. Body Length (From HPS and CB)......................................................................B-5
b. Bodice Length From HPS...................................................................................B-6
c. Skirt Length........................................................................................................B-6
4. Shoulder and Neckline Region
a. Shoulder Slope....................................................................................................B-7
b. Across Shoulder, Across Front, Across Back................................................ B-7, B-8
c. Neck (Neck Width, Neck Opening, Neck Drops).................................B-8 to B-11
5.Armholes........................................................................................................... B-12, B-13
6.Sleeves
a. Sleeve Length....................................................................................................B-14
b. Sleeve Muscle-Bicep, Forearm, Opening, and Cuffs. .............................. B-15, B-16
7. Garment Width Or Circumference
a.Chest-Bust.........................................................................................................B-17
b. Placements From HPS (Waist and Hip) ..........................................................B-18
c.Waist....................................................................................................... B-18, B-19
d. High Hip and Low Hip.......................................................................... B-20, B-21
e. Sweep-Bottom Opening....................................................................................B-22
8. Pants Measurements
a.Rises..................................................................................................................B-23
b. Measuring Foundation – Pants (Creased or Uncreased)...............................B-24
c. Thigh, Knee, and Leg Opening.........................................................................B-24
d. Lengths (Inseam and Outseam).........................................................................B-25
9. Assorted Details
a.Collars..................................................................................................... B-26, B-27
b.Yokes.................................................................................................................B-28
c.Pockets.......................................................................................... B-29, B-30, B-31
d. Belts and Beltloops............................................................................................B-32
e.Hoods...............................................................................................................B-33
f. Hems, Casing Height, and Shirttail Height......................................................B-34
g. Slits, Vents, and Plackets...................................................................................B-35
h.Darts.................................................................................................................B-36
Vendor Handbook
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section C–Testing Standards
Introduction A Message From Our Designated Lab Vendor Confirmation Form Fabric Testing Procedures Fabric Inspection Protocols Point Calculation Garment Testing Procedures
Pricing Recommended Size of Sample For Testing Test Request Forms
Testing Package Specifications Regulatory Compliance Specifications Intertek Contacts C-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
C-4
C-5
C-7
C-8
C-9
C-10, C-11
C-12 – C-15
C-16 – C-21
C-22 – C-24
Section D–Product Safety/GCC Compliance
Compliance Policy
D-1
General Certification of Conformity (GCC) D-2, D-3
Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act Compliance Acknowledgement D-4
Recap – GCC /Testing D-5
General Certification Of Conformity Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) D-6, D-7
Section E–International Shipments
Basic Information
Products Covered
Invoicing, Documentation and Receiving Addresses
Shipping Documents and Instructions
Shipment of Goods
Booking of Freight and Shipment Information
Direct Import shipping information US Customs 10+2 Requirements–Importer Security Filing
Importer Security Filing (10+2) Form
Importer Security Filing (10+2) Form Instructions
E-1
E-2
E-2
E-3
E-5
E-6
E-6
E-7
E-8
E-9
Section F–Accounting
Guide to Accounts Payable Delivery Time Chargebacks Vendor Handbook
F-1
F-2
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
Vendor Handbook
5
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
Dear Vendor:
As a supplier to the Appleseed's Brands, which include Appleseed’s, The Tog Shop and LinenSource, you
are a true partner with us in delivering high-quality, well-designed products that fit right and represent
great value to our customers. Exceeding our customers’ high expectations is what has enabled our
business to succeed, and is critical to our future growth.
Our Vendor Handbook has been developed to ensure that we continue to raise the bar in surpassing our
customers' expectations. It contains extensive documentation regarding quality and fit specifications that
we have developed over several years of experience. We need you, as our partner, to view these specifications
as goals that we must mutually meet and exceed to further expand our reputation for predictably delivering
high-quality products. It is imperative that the appropriate personnel in your organization have copies of this
Handbook and become familiar with its guidelines.
We have had tremendous success in developing the Appleseed’s, Tog Shop and LinenSource brands with
our partners and we look forward to achieving our growth goals side-by-side with you.
Should you have further questions regarding any aspect of this Handbook, please be sure to ask the
appropriate department head in our organization. We want to make sure there is no uncertainty regarding
these guidelines.
Sincerely,
Kevin McGrain
President
Vendor Handbook
i-1
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
APPLESEED’S/THE TOG SHOP
VENDOR HANDBOOK ACKNOWLEDGMENT
Please read and sign this acknowledgment.
Email the signed acknowledgment to [email protected]
It is the signatory’s responsibility to ensure that the appropriate departments
within your company receive the information in this guide.
Your e-mail address is required to be on file to ensure you receive future updates.
=====================================================================
I have read the Appleseed’s/The Tog Shop Vendor Handbook.
I understand that failure to comply with these instructions may result in
chargebacks as defined within this Handbook.
_____________________________________
Company Name
_____________________________________
_____________________________________
Print Your NameYour Title
_____________________________________
_____________________________________
Your SignatureDate
_____________________________________
Your E-Mail address
Primary contact if different from above: _____________________________________
Thank you for your cooperation.
Vendor Handbook
i-2
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
EMPLOYEE CONTACTS
Appleseed’s Main Number: (978) 304-4200
Please note below key contacts for your reference.
To reach by phone, dial 978-304, followed by the extension number.
For email address, use this format: [email protected].
Fax 978-922-7001.
ADMINISTRATION
President of the Orchard Portfolio
Marc Sieger
Brand President
Kevin McGrain
Ext. 4204
VP & General Merchandising Manager
VP of Inventory Control
Dave Phillion
Divisional Merchandising Manager – Appleseed’s
Colleen Norve
Ext. 4280
Divisional Merchandising Manager – Tog Shop
Michelle Whalen
Ext. 4311
Sr. Director Sourcing & Product Technical
Kelly Leary
Ext. 4332
Vendor Handbook
i-3
Ext. 4298
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
Key Contacts
E-mail addresses are in the name format: [email protected].
To reach by phone, dial 978-304, followed by the extension number. Fax 978-922-7001.
Merchandising
Divisional Merch Manager
Colleen Norve
CATEGORY
BUYER
ext.
ASSISTANT BUYER
4298
ext.
Sweaters
Cut & Sew Tops
Laurie Villalobos
4285
Kelly De Barros
4305
Jessica Shaw
4282
Julia Borchert
4317
Gina Miller
4283
Nancy Huntley
4326
KT Kiley
4289
Amanda Matvichuk
4286
Woven Tops
Bottoms
Skirts
Activewear
Monterey Bay
Jackets
Dresses
Swimwear
Outerwear
Footwear
Sleepwear & Intimates
Loungewear
Accessories/Jewelry
Handbags
Planning & Inventory Control
Kris Rodden
Inventory Planning Manager
CATEGORY
Woven Jackets, Bottoms, & Dresses
4295
PLANNER
ext.
Nick Greenier
4288
Melissa Caramanica
4318
Katie Shaw
4287
Melissa Caramanica
4318
Karen Stevens
4284
Blouses
Outerwear & Lined Boiled Wool
Swimwear
Sweaters & Boiled Wool
Knit Bottoms, Activewear & Dresses
Knit Tops
Accessories, Sleepwear, Shoes
2/26/16
Vendor Handbook
i-4
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
Merchandising
Divisional Merch Manager
CATEGORY
Michelle Whalen
BUYER
ext.
ASSISTANT BUYER
4311
ext.
Wovens
Lori Brown
4313
Mary Ruiz
4375
Knits & Sweaters
Ashley Graham
4316
April Diamond
4314
Activewear & Swim
April Diamond
4314
KT Kiley
4289
Amanda Matvichuk
4286
Donna McNamara
4315
Footwear
Sleepwear & Intimates
Loungewear
Accessories/Jewelry
Handbags
Inventory Planning Manager
CATEGORY
Woven Jackets, Bottoms, & Dresses
PLANNER
ext.
Carol Reynolds
4341
Annie Warry
4281
Shweta Sinha
4297
Karen Stevens
4284
Blouses
Outerwear & Lined Boiled Wool
Swimwear
Sweaters & Boiled Wool
Knit Bottoms, Activewear & Dresses
Knit Tops
Accessories, Sleepwear, Shoes
!"!#"$#
Vendor Handbook
i-5
Spring, 2016
INTRODUCTION
Sourcing
Wovens
Rhyanna Taylor
4335
Lisa Jaquith
4333
Rose Giannasca
4363
Knits & Sweaters
Tracey Barry
4334
Sourcing Assistant
Francesca LeGallo
4331
Technical Design
Technical Design Manager
Tatyana Shapiro
4321
Sr. Technical Designer
Marisol Hilario
4308
Technical Designer
Ellen Weeks
4322
Technical Designer
Iuliana Ladokha
4327
Technical Designer
Maura Durkin
4310
Technical Designer
Rebecca Stone
4323
Testing & Compliance
Lab Testing
[email protected]
Vendor Compliance
[email protected]
Labels & Packages
[email protected]
Vendor Handbook
i-6
4335
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
MERCHANDISE PROCEDURES
Merchandise Procedures
SECTION A
To Our Suppliers:
This Product Development Handbook outlines the expectations, guidelines, and protocols for all
Appleseed's and The Tog Shop merchandise. Whether Imported or purchased from Domestic Suppliers
and Market, the development and production milestones are essentially the same. The initial development
and sharing of Product Details varies slightly for Domestic Vendors, but we expect the same standards be
met for Testing, Compliance, and Quality requirements detailed in this handbook.
IMPORT SUPPLIERS:
You will work primarily with the Sourcing Department for all issues related to development and production
of Import Products. We expect that you will work with your factories to inform them of our requirements
within this manual. You are our key communicator and have the 1st review of our products.
BRANDED/PRIVATE LABEL:
Our Buyers have selected to buy your styles based on samples they have seen, and in some cases, have
selected to develop product with you on an LDP basis. We are implementing a new Branded/Private Label
Style Fact Sheet to be completed for each style that we develop. The Buyers will initiate the Fact Sheet and
request that the highlighted areas are completed by the Vendor. A new category, “Product Attributes”,
requires product specific details in order to populate websites.
Your attention to the details in this handbook is much appreciated, and will ensure that we meet our goal to
provide quality, well-fitting garments to our customers. Please reach out to your key contacts with any questions and communications.
For your reference, this Product Development Handbook can be found online at:
http://orchardhomeservices.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/AS-TTS_Vendor_Handbook.pdf
With appreciation,
Appleseed’s & Tog Shop Inc.
Vendor Handbook
A-1
Spring, 2016
BRANDED/PRIVATE LABEL STYLE FACT SHEET
Requested By
Requested Date
Photo Sample Due
Date
In DC Due Date (est)
Catalog/Season
Please complete all highlighted fields below.
Vendor
Style/Description
Fabric Content
<Insert Photo>
Product Attributes
Garment Features
& Performance
Claims*
*Performance Claims (i.e. water/wrinkle resistant, etc) must be validated by 3rd Party Test Labs
Minimum Order Quantity
Units per Color
Fabric Minimum
Misses
Petites
Womens
CENTER BACK
INSEAM
SKIRT LENGTH
Special Sizing
Appleseed's Style Number (s)
Vendor Style Number (s)
Sizes Available
Cost
Appleseed's Color Number (s)
Vendor Color Number (s)
Key Specs*
*1st Fit Sample should be sent in a size 8 or SMALL. Please send full specs via email and submit a copy along with 1st sample.
PO DUE DATE
Key Dates
FIT APPROVAL DUE
DELIVERY SHIP DATE
Garment Labeling
Appleseed's preferred care instructions for testing are Machine Wash/Tumble Dry unless otherwise indicated or if the fabric or styling would prohibit it. Care instructions
should be validated by 3rd Party Lab Testing.
Please refer to our Vendor Handbook for details.
Washing Instructions
Machine Wash Warm
Machine Wash Cold
Only Non-Chlorine
If Needed
Do No Bleach
Drying Instructions
Tumble Dry Low
Hang to Dry
Ironing Instructions
Warm
Cool
Bleaching Instructions
Country of Origin
Hand Wash Cold
Dry Clean
Lay Flat To Dry
Brand Label
4/5/16
BRANDED/PRIVATE LABEL STYLE FACT SHEET
Requested By
Requested Date
Photo Sample Due
Date
In DC Due Date (est)
Catalog/Season
Please complete all highlighted fields below.
Vendor
Style/Description
Fabric Content
<Insert Photo>
Product Attributes
Garment Features
& Performance
Claims*
*Performance Claims (i.e. water/wrinkle resistant, etc) must be validated by 3rd Party Test Labs
Minimum Order Quantity
Units per Color
Fabric Minimum
Misses
Petites
Womens
CENTER BACK
INSEAM
SKIRT LENGTH
Special Sizing
Tog Shop Style Number (s)
Vendor Style Number (s)
Sizes Available
Cost
Tog Shop Color Number (s)
Vendor Color Number (s)
Key Specs*
*1st Fit Sample should be sent in a size 8 or SMALL. Please send full specs via email and submit a copy along with 1st sample.
PO DUE DATE
Key Dates
FIT APPROVAL DUE
DELIVERY SHIP DATE
Garment Labeling
Tog Shop preferred care instructions for testing are Machine Wash/Tumble Dry unless otherwise indicated or if the fabric or styling would prohibit it. Care instructions should
be validated by 3rd Party Lab Testing.
Please refer to our Vendor Handbook for details.
Washing Instructions
Machine Wash Warm
Machine Wash Cold
Only Non-Chlorine
If Needed
Do No Bleach
Drying Instructions
Tumble Dry Low
Hang to Dry
Ironing Instructions
Warm
Cool
Bleaching Instructions
Country of Origin
Hand Wash Cold
Dry Clean
Lay Flat To Dry
Brand Label
4/5/16
SECTION A
IMPORT DEVELOPMENT
FABRIC/YARN SELECTION & DOCUMENTATION
1. Sourcing Manager requests fabrics and yarns from Agents and/or Designated Mills.
In response, Mills or sewing factories submit fabric swatches, yarns, or knit downs to
Sourcing for review.
2. Fabric and yarn submissions are selected. A Fabric Detail Form (FDF), along with any
previous fabric lab test reports, are requested.
3. The Fabric Detail Form (FDF) serves as a standard for all bulk fabric. For re-list fabrics,
any variances to the previous FDF must be approved by Sourcing. The FDF is to be filled
out by the Mill and distributed to the Agent and Appleseed's. The FDF is kept on file by
Sourcing, and the Agent/Vendor. See copy of the form on following pages. Note form is
different for cut & sew, sweaters & woven fabrics. The FDF must indicate the following:
a.Fabric reference number
b.Fiber content
c. Care instructions for the fabric
d. Construction (Tolerance for yarn size and threads per inch is +/- 3%)
e.Cuttable Width: Bulk production must match the FDF. Any change to fabric
width must be confirmed and approved by Sourcing.
f.Weight: In either ounces per square yard or grams per square meter.
(Tolerance to the standard is +/- 5%. Weight variance between colors should
be within 2%)
g.Fabric price: Designated Mills quote Chinese/Asian fabric CIF HK in USD.
Distant (i.e. American) Mills must quote ex-port. Mill should state how
long price is effective on the FDF.
h.Lead-time: Lead time for fabric should include greige production, dyeing/
printing, embellishments, transit to the factory, and lab testing.
i.Minimums: Mills and/or factories will state the production minimum for bulk
fabric per order and per color as well as any applicable surcharge if the Mill
is willing to accept below minimum quantities.
4. Sourcing confirms the Fabric Detail Form and assigns every fabric (or yarn) a fabric ID
code. Color standards, art work, and construction details are advised by Sourcing for
proceeding with lab dips, strike-offs, embellishments, knit downs and first fit samples.
5. Sourcing Manager requests a Time and Action calendar from the Agent based on fabric,
yarn, decoration, and production lead times needed to meet Appleseed’s/Tog purchase
order, photo sample, and X-factory due dates.
6. Sourcing Manager negotiates and confirms fabric and garment prices based on fabric and
production minimums, surcharges, and any other additional costs.
Vendor Handbook
A-4
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
FABRIC DETAIL FORM
This section is for internal use only.
Fabric Program:
Division:
Appleseed's
AFD #:
Related Styles:
2
Fabric Information
Please fully complete the below form that is highlighted in yellow, thank you.
Season & Year: Season
1
1
Year
Date Submitted:
Agent/Factory:
Address:
Fabric/Yarn Mill:
Fabric/Yarn Description:
Fabric/Yarn Content:
Mill Reference #:
Mill Print/Pattern #:
Classification & Dye Method:
Classification
Dye Method1
1
Print Method:
Dye Stuff
Fabric Construction:
Yarn Size:
Full Fabric Width:
Cuttable Width:
Fabric Weight:
oz/sqy
3 Washed Gmt Weight
oz/sqy
Fabric/Yarn Finish:
Country of Origin:
Transit Time to Fty:
Bulk Lead Time (days):
Greige Available:
Yardage Available:
Y or 1N
Bulk Fabric Price & Minimums
Please advise pricing for the below, including fabric testing. Please fill in all that apply.
Wovens and Knits
3,000 yds. per order & 1,000 yds. per color
USD $
Price1
effective until:
USD $
Price1
effective until:
USD $
Price1
effective until:
USD $
Price1
effective until:
yds. per order
yds. per color
Sweaters
UOM
1
per order
UOM
1
per color
Price
1
effective until:
UOM
1
per order
UOM
1
per color
Price
1
effective until:
Sample Yardage Development
Is there SY available?
Y or 1N
Development Minimum
yards
Lead Time (days)
Lab Testing
Is there a previous customer test report or in-‐house test report available?*
Y or $1.00
N
Is there a previous customer test report or in-‐house test report that tests flammability?*
Y or $1.00
N
*If yes, please e-‐mail a copy to [email protected].
Care Instructions
Shrinkage After 3 Washes
Notes/Comments:
Printed: 1/8/14
SECTION A
COLOR APPROVAL PROCESS
INITIAL SUBMIT
The following process applies to IMPORT Lab Dip, Strike-off, Handloom and Knit-down approvals.
For Domestic products, the Buyer will manage this process similarly using the same technical evaluations.
• Color will be advised, along with Pantone or Scot Dic references, or color standards.
•Artwork files will be sent via e-mail for prints, embroidery, or design layout, with Pitch Sheet and
CAD’s sent via Fed Ex.
•Lab Dips and Strike-offs should be submitted in the correct quality on the Lab Dip Submission
Form. They should be initially reviewed before sending to ensure that they are within reasonable
acceptable tolerance.
•Nap, Sheen, Grain, Texture and Wash Finishing should be considered when submitting for
approval. Please attach them to the Submit Forms in the correct direction for clarity.
•Submits will be evaluated to Color Standard using the Macbeth SpectraLight III Light Box.
For approval, the color submit must match under all 3 illuminants, with Daylight (D65) as the
primary light source. Final determinations will be based on visual observations.
• Daylight 6500 (D65)
• Cool White Fluorescent
• Incandescent A (IncA)
•Color Comments or Approval will be advised and the Final Approved Lab Dip/Strike-off should
become the Standard for the Color Name and Number in the selected quality.
PRODUCTION SUBMIT
•The Vendor/Agent must submit to the Buyer or Sourcing Manager an 8” x 11” swatch off the
bulk production fabric for each color approval before releasing to the factory for production.
•Bulk fabric swatches should be sent attached to a Bulk Submission Form individually for each
color in a program.
• Please submit 2 bulk swatches per color for our record.
• If there are multiple dye lots for consideration, please identify them and submit for approval.
•Color Comments or Approval will be advised and the Final Approved Bulk becomes the
Standard for the Color Name and Number in the selected quality for future bulk orders.
Vendor Handbook
A-6
Spring, 2016
LAB DIP
LAB
SUBMISSION
DIP SUBMISSION
FORM FORM
Shell Fabric
ShellLining
Fabric
To:
:
Date:
ty/Ref
Quality/Ref
#:
#:
ory: Factory:
/Program:
Style/Program:
Trim
Lining
Trim
From:
From:
Season: Season:
Content: Content:
Mill/Dyer:Mill/Dyer:
Color Name/#:
Color Name/#:
PRIMARY LIGHT
PRIMARY
SOURCE:
LIGHTDAYLIGHT
SOURCE: DAYLIGHT
D65--2nd D65--2nd
& 3rd LIGHT
& 3rd
SOURCES:
LIGHT SOURCES:
U30 / IncAU30 / IncA
Submit:__________
Submit:__________
Submit:__________
Submit:__________
Submit:__________
Submit:__________
Submit:__________
Submit:__________
seed's/Tog
Appleseed's/Tog
Shop Comments:
Shop Comments:
Submit _______
Submitis _______ APPROVED.
is
APPROVED. REJECTED. PleaseREJECTED.
submit additional
Please submits
submit additional
for reviewsubmits
ASAP. for review ASAP.
Value Needs Value
to be: Needs to be:
Chroma Needs
Chroma
to be: Needs to be:
Less
Hue Needs toHue
be: Needs to be:
ed By: Reviewed By:
Less
More
Lighter
Darker
Lighter
Darker
Brighter
Brighter
Duller
Duller
More
Comments:
Comments:
BULK SUBMISSION FORM
Shell Fabric
Lining
To:
Date:
Quality/Ref #:
Factory:
Style/Program:
Bulk Fabric X-Mill Date:
Trim
From:
Season:
Content:
Mill/Dyer:
Color Name/#:
Quantity/PO#:
PRIMARY LIGHT SOURCE: DAYLIGHT D65--2nd & 3rd LIGHT SOURCES: U30 / IncA
Submit # :______
Appleseed's/Tog Shop Comments:
Submit is
APPROVED.
REJECTED. Please submit additional submits for review ASAP.
Value Needs to be:
Chroma Needs to be:
Hue Needs to be:
Reviewed By:
Less
More
Comments:
Lighter
Darker
Brighter
Duller
SECTION A
GARMENT QUALITY REQUIREMENTS
GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
• Color, fiber content, and fabric should be as approved by the Sourcing Manager
or Buyer.
•
Garment construction and measurements should be as approved by the Technical Design Department.
• Defects are not permissible. Defects include, but are not limited to, holes, stains, weak spots,
mispicks, knots, slubs, soiling, pulls, heavy barre or machine lines.
• Moisture in polybag due to steam, wash, or weather is not permissible.
Silica gel packs may be required.
• Items with foul odors are not acceptable.
• All fabrics must meet current United States Flammability Codes. See Section D.
FABRIC
• All garments must be cut on the straight of grain, unless otherwise specified.
• The fabric quality and content must be maintained within an individual item,
the coordinate groups, and all future reorders.
DYE LOTS/FABRIC COLOR
•
•
•
All garment components and self trims must be of the same dye lots.
Sets, Suits, and Coordinating Separates must be of the same dye lot or matched dye lots
approved by Buyer or Sourcing Manager.
Shading is not permissible.
SPECS/MEASUREMENTS
•
•
•
All garments must meet the requirements outlined in the Technical Specification.
Any measurements not in accordance with the tolerance standards may be reason
for rejection or chargeback.
All corresponding parts on a garment must be symmetrical and have the same measurements
(armholes, pant legs, sleeve lengths, etc.).
CONSTRUCTION
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Stitch length for all sewing is 10-12 SPI, unless otherwise specified.
Stitch size must be consistent throughout garment.
Topstitching must be even and straight.
Bar tacks or latch tacks are required at stress points.
Stitch tension must be balanced so there are no thread loops or puckers.
Broken threads and skipped stitches are not permissible.
Needle cuts and chews are not permissible.
Broken and restarted overlapping stitching is not permissible.
Parts sewn or linked together incorrectly are not permissible.
Raw edges are not permissible, unless otherwise specified.
Foreign objects cannot be sewn or knit into garment.
Vendor Handbook
A-9
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
THREAD
•
•
•
•
Thread and linking yarn must match fabric ground color for all seams and topstitching,
unless otherwise specified (e.g. contrast topstitching).
Button sewing thread color must be approved by designer.
Use of monofilament thread must be approved by technical designer.
Clip thread ends to 1/8". Loose thread ends are not permissible.
SEAMS
• Seam allowance width must be consistent throughout an item (width will vary according to
fabric and construction).
•
Raw edges must be finished by overlock, binding or another clean finish, unless otherwise specified.
• Seam must match within 1/8" where transverse seams cross (crotch, armholes, etc).
• Unstitched seams are not permissible.
• Seam slippage is not permissible.
• Puckered, curled, or pleated fabric in seams is not permissible.
• No extraneous part of garment may be caught in seams.
• Shoulder seams on knits must be reinforced with tape (mobilon/clear elastic tape preferred).
• Shoulder seams on sweater must be reinforced with tape (self knitted tape preferred).
• Rise seams on knit pants must be reinforced with mobilon/clear elastic tape.
LININGS
•
•
•
•
•
•
Linings must be dyed to match (DTM) or contrast as approved by Buyer or
Sourcing Manager.
Lining must have correct ease, darts, and/or pleats as a as appropriate for styling and movement.
Lining must hang level inside the garment and not be visible below hems.
Pulling, puckering, or twisting is not permissible.
Lining must withstand approved care instructions as per test results.
Seam slippage is not permissible.
INTERFACINGS
•
•
•
•
•
Interfacing must be a color, weight and quality that coordinates with body fabric.
Fusible interfacing must be properly adhered to fabric.
Non-fusible interfacing must be attached to garment securely.
Bubbling, waving, discoloration, or distortion is not permissible.
Interfacing must withstand approved care instructions as per test results.
COLLARS
•
•
•
•
•
•
Collar and/or collar stand must fit smoothly into neckline without puckering or stretching.
Collar points/curves must be symmetrical within 1/8".
Plaids, stripes, or directional prints on collar must mirror on both collar points/curves.
Undercollar must not roll to outside.
Collar must meet at center front.
Collar must be clean finished on inside neck.
Vendor Handbook
A-10
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
FACINGS
•
•
•
•
Facings must be self fabric, unless otherwise specified.
Facings must be finished by overlock, binding or another clean finish, unless otherwise specified.
Facings must be wide enough to lay flat and remain in place within the garment.
Understitching is required to prevent rolling where appropriate.
FRONT PLACKETS
•
•
•
•
Top and bottom plackets must be aligned when buttoned.
Inside edges of front plackets must be finished by overlock, binding or another clean finish,
unless otherwise specified.
Front placket must not be puckered, pulled, distorted, uneven, or sewn off-grain.
Plaids, stripes, or directional prints on front plackets must match across the opening.
CUFFS/SLEEVE PLACKETS
•
•
•
Cuff seams and cuff edges must be aligned when buttoned.
Undercuff must not roll to outside.
Plaids, stripes, or directional prints on cuff/sleeve plackets must match across the opening and
mirror from left to right.
WAISTBANDS/BELT LOOPS
• Waistband must not be puckered, pulled, distorted, uneven, or sewn off-grain.
• Elastic must be evenly applied. Tunnel elastic must be stitched at sideseam to reduce twisting.
• Inside waistband edge must be finished by overlock, binding or another clean finish,
unless otherwise specified.
• Missing, crooked, uneven, or incorrectly placed belt loops are not permissible.
•
Fabric belt loops must be reinforced with bar tacks. Underside of belt loop must be clean finished.
Belt loop ends must be trimmed.
POCKETS
•
•
•
•
•
•
Pockets must lie flat against garment with no pulling, gaping, or puckering.
Corresponding pockets and pocket flaps must be placed symmetrically on garment within 1/8”.
Corresponding pockets and pocket flaps must be the same size and shape within 1/8".
Pockets and pocket flaps must be reinforced at stress points.
Plaids, stripes, or directional prints on pockets and pocket flaps must have four-way match to
garment body, unless otherwise approved.
Welt and besom pockets must be basted for 2” at center of opening using 4-6 SPI.
HEMS
•
Hems should be sewn last, after underarm, side or leg inseams have been finished, unless otherwise
approved by technical designer.
• All hems must be sewn securely without puckering, skipped stitches, rolling or twisting.
• Hem must be even in width within 1/16".
• Hem must hang level when garment is worn.
• Blind hems must not have large stitches, pronounced pick marks or heavy press marks present on
exterior or poor tension and large thread loops on interior of garment.
Vendor Handbook
A-11
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
TRIMS
•
•
•
•
•
•
All trims must withstand approved care instructions as per test results.
Banded trims must be aligned at joining seams.
Trim seams must be clean finished.
Sharp or burred edges are not permissible.
Extra trims may be required to accompany garment (e.g. beads/hand sewn snaps).
All trims must be approved by Buyer or Sourcing Manager.
BUTTONS/SNAPS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
One (1) extra button of each size and type is required with each garment.
Style, quality, and color of buttons/snaps must be approved by Buyer or Sourcing Manager.
Self covered buttons/snaps must use fabric with sufficient thickness or be properly backed and
fully cover button construction.
Buttons/snaps must be spaced evenly unless otherwise specified.
Buttons/snaps must be aligned to each other within 1/8".
Buttons/buttonholes and snap sets must be aligned properly.
Puckering and pulling due to incorrect alignment is not permissible.
Buttons/snaps must be attached securely.
Jackets and Outerwear (or heavy fabrics) require self thread shank on 2 and 4 hole buttons.
Buttons/snaps must be colorfast.
Placement markings must not be visible.
BUTTONHOLES/BUTTON LOOPS
• Buttonhole/loop must be appropriate length/width for corresponding button and fabric.
•
Buttonhole thread and button loops must be dyed to match (DTM) garment unless otherwise specified.
• Buttonhole ends must be reinforced. Button loops must be sewn securely.
• Buttonhole must be opened properly. Cut or damaged binding threads are not permissible.
• Buttonholes must be vertical or horizontal unless otherwise specified.
• Closures must be inspected before shipping for quality and functionality.
ZIPPERS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Zipper must be appropriate in strength to base fabric.
Top and bottom stops must be securely fastened.
Zipper must be dyed to match (DTM) ground color, unless otherwise specified.
Zipper must have secure pull-tab.
Pant zippers must have locking slider.
Zipper tape and teeth must be concealed, unless otherwise specified.
Stretching or easing the garment into a zipper is not permissible.
Malfunctioning zippers are not permissible.
Rough edges are not permissible.
Zipper must be YKK unless approved by buyer or designer.
Vendor Handbook
A-12
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
BELTS/BUCKLES
•
•
•
•
•
Fabric covered belts/buckles must use fabric with sufficient thickness or be properly backed
and fully cover belt construction.
Self fabric covered belts/buckles must be cut from same dye lot as garment.
Self fabric covered belts/buckles must have enclosed seams and no openings or raw edges.
Vinyl or leather backing must not be visible on front side.
Belt holes must be properly punched, appropriate size, and without loose threads/fabric.
FINISHING/PRESSING
• Scorch, burn or press marks are not permissible.
• Excessive wrinkling or improper creasing is not permissible.
• Gloss or color change due to over pressing is not permissible.
VENDOR ATTACHMENTS
• Disclaimers informing customer that imperfections are inherent in the fabric are permissible
as approved by the Buyer.
• Hangtags are not required except for fabric information hangtags (e.g. Lycra, Teflon, Tencel)
or unless otherwise specified.
• Price tags are not permissible.
• Bathing suits must have protective liners.
•
Vendor name/brand logo identification is permissible for Branded items only as approved by the Buyer.
NOTE: These are basic construction/quality guidelines and may not consist of all requirements
necessary to prevent rejection or chargeback.
Vendor Handbook
A-13
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
SAMPLE REQUIREMENTS
•All samples should be submitted with the appropriate hang tags identifying the sample details.
See pages A-17 & A-18.
•Samples should not be charged to Appleseed's and Tog Shop. They are the responsibility of the
Vendor/Agent.
• Samples should be shipped to:
Attn: Buyer (Domestic/LDP Vendors) OR Sourcing (Direct Import Vendors)
35 Village Road
Middleton, MA 01949
978-304-4200
PROTO SAMPLES
Initial samples requested by the Buyer or Sourcing to review styling, fabric, and consider for adoption. May
be a Showroom or Factory sample. Once reviewed on model, modifications will be communicated to the
Vendor and additional samples will be requested. In the case that the details are close to, or meet expectations, this Proto Sample may be used as a 1st Fit Sample.
FIT SAMPLES
These samples must reflect the specs provided or agreed upon by our Technical Design Department.
Additional samples will be requested until the correct fit is achieved.
Note: Fit samples for Branded Merchandise are for reference only.
The Technical Designer will issue an initial Tech Pack (for Direct Imports only) including
Sketch, Target Spec, BOM, and Construction details.
• Fit Samples should be submitted in correct or closest available fabric.
•
Fit samples should be submitted with a copy of a paper pattern, and a measuring audit sheet with specs.
• Misses Fit Sample should be submitted in size 8 or S (6-8).
• Fit will be evaluated on model.
Fit model is available weekly on Mondays. Please help to push samples to meet this timing
whenever possible.
•Fit Comments will be provided by the Technical Designer. Additional sample request or approval
is sent via email with a final update to the tech pack when applicable.
• After review of the Misses Fit Sample, the initial spec for Women's is submitted to vendor.
Sample should be submitted in size 18W or 1x (18-20).
•Other size category specs (Petite, Misses Tall, etc.) will be issued after fit approval of Misses and
Women's sizes.
BUYERS WORKING SAMPLE (BWS)
Samples requested for use by the Buyer when merchandising the catalog and during the pagination process.
•
Samples do not have to be fit-correct but should be a close representation of the fabric and styling detail.
• BWS should be sent after 1st fit sample comments are received from the Tech Department.
Vendor Handbook
A-14
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
PHOTOGRAPHY SAMPLE
• Photo sample requests are sent by the Buyer via email. See forms on pages A-19, A-20.
All new styles and colors are requested.
• All Photography Samples should be sent in size 8 or S (6-8).
•
These samples should be sent after 1st fit sample comments are received from the Tech Department.
•Samples should be submitted in Bulk Fabric or close available color/print. Any substitutions in
fabric, color or details must be approved by the Buyer or Sourcing prior to sending and should be
indicated on the sample tag.
•
Delayed samples must be communicated to the Buyers or Sourcing. If photo samples are not received
in time, there is risk of cancellation. If we do not have photography, we will lose opportunity to present
in the catalog.
BULK PREPRODUCTION SAMPLE (BPP)
BPP samples are sent prior to actual production so that any revisions necessary can be made before the production
lot is cut and produced.
• A BPP will be requested on an exception only basis.
• Sample must be in correct bulk fabric and use all correct trim.
• BPP Main, Size, and Care Labels should be correct.
•Comments on a BPP will be provided within 24 hours of receipt and should not expect major
changes. This should be a “reference only” sample confirming that all comments provided during
the fit process have been followed.
T.O.P. (TOP OF PRODUCTION) SAMPLE
Top of Production Samples (TOP's) are the first sample pulled from the production run and sent to
Technical Design Department for bulk shipment approval. These samples can be marked or mutilated for
shipping/customs compliance.
• Please provide TOP samples for all new styles. DO NOT provide TOP for relist product.
If there is any question about style status, New or Relist, please contact Buyer or Sourcing.
• TOP samples will be for reference only.
Comments will be sent ONLY if there are exceptions that need to be communicated. No notice
of receipt or acceptance will be sent.
Production will not be held awaiting TOP comments. Any comments provided will be used for
future production.
If a severe failure is identified the supplier will immediately be notified. Upon notification the
supplier will make every effort to resolve the issue prior to shipment of the merchandise.
• One Misses sample is requested as the TOP.
TOP should be sent in base sizes (8, S, 8P, PS, 18W, 1X, 8T, 18WP, 8PS, 18WS).
Paper Pattern should be included with the sample.
•TOPs will be sent to the attention of the Buyer or Sourcing. They will be reviewed and passed to
the Technical Designer for final review and retention.
Vendor Handbook
A-15
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
APPLESEED’S AND THE TOG SHOP
Preshipment Program For Domestic Accessories/Gifts
We will continue our successful Preshipment Program in our commitment to quality and excellence.
This program has been a benefit to both Appleseed’s and our Vendors, and has proven invaluable
in solving quality issues.
PRESHIPMENT PROGRAM REQUIREMENTS:
• For each item on order, please submit 1 representation of each
color (and size if applicable) 3 weeks prior to PO cancellation date.
• Preshipments are needed on initial orders only for each season, not on reorders.
•
All Preshipment production items must have proper hangtags (if applicable) and labels,
and must duplicate the same shipment procedures used for the final bulk shipments.
• Preshipment non-compliance Chargebacks:
1.
2.
3.
No Preshipment sent prior to bulk shipment - $250/item#
No Preshipment sent prior to bulk shipment/season - $100/item#
Sizes and/or colors not fully represented in Preshipment - $50/item#
• All Preshipment production items must be saleable
(in-stock) merchandise; do not mutilate or mark as “sample”.
• All Preshipment production items should be sent using
example label format shown on this page.
• Box each PO separately and mark cartons as per example label
to ensure prompt delivery to Accessory Buyer
• Coordinating items should be shipped at the
same time for review.
• Ship-to address for Preshipments:
Appleseed’s/Tog Shop, Inc.
Attn: Accessory Buyer/Preshipment
35 Village Road
Middleton, MA 01949
THIS BOX CONTAINS
PRE-SHIPMENT SAMPLES,
• Your items will be inspected. We will notify you by fax or
e-mail with our comments and inspection approval.
It is the vendors responsibility to allow enough
time in sending out the preshipment items to maintain
on-time delivery for your final bulk shipment.
• Turnaround time to process will depend on volume received
each week but should not exceed 5 business days from receipt
of pre-shipment.
ATTENTION:
• You will need an authorization number from the Planner for
final bulk shipment approval.
• Preshipments to be invoiced at the time of shipment.
PLEASE DELIVER TO
ACCESSORY BUYER
IMMEDIATELY UPON RECEIPT.
P.O. #________________________
STYLE #______________________
It is our goal to develop a partnership with our key Vendors that will enable us to move toward a “ship to stock” mode.
Thank you for your cooperation in maintaining our Preshipment Program.
Vendor Handbook
A-16
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
SAMPLE TAG
For Branded, Private Label and Direct Import Merchandise
We require a sample tag on each sample:
• The sample tag can be used for all Orchard Brands Companies.
• The sample tag will be used to identify the following information: Brand (Appleseed’s or
Tog Shop), Date, PO#, Season, Group Name (if applicable), Style (Item#), Description,
From (contact person), Office (if applicable), Vendor (or Agent)/Factory, Country of Origin,
Sample Size, Content, and Sample Type. Indicate whether fabric, color, and trim are representative
of bulk production or a substitute.
• There are 5 color sample tags. Sample Tags should be 23⁄4" wide x 67⁄8" long (except Photo Sample
Tag*, see below) and printed on heavy card-stock paper.
See examples of sample tags, on next page.
Counter/Working Sample (White)
Fit Sample (Blue)
Pre-Production (Yellow)
Production/TOP (Pink)
• The sample tag must be swift-attached with a 3" standard plastic attachment to the wearer's left
underarm or left sideseam/waist.
Photo Sample* (Orange) should be 31⁄4" wide x 31⁄2" long
*Note: Photo Sample Tags must be swift-attached with a 3" standard plastic attachment
on the outside at the center back top of garment (Neck, Waistband, Collar). Please
be cautious to apply in a seam, where possible, to avoid damage to the garment.
Please also be sure to include all details on the tag, especially noting whether
bulk or available fabric, colors, or trims were used.
• To request artwork for sample tags, contact [email protected].
Example only
(Not actual size)
Counter/Working
Sample
Tog Shop
4/28/09PO#: –
Date:
Spring 2010
Season:
Blended Twill
Group Name:
A12345
Style/Dev. #:
Brand Name:
Description:
Blended Twill PO Pant
Heather Office: HK
From:
HDM/Great Factory
Vendor/Factory:
China
Ctry of Origin:
SAMPLE SIZE:
8
Missy
Reg
Petite
Tall
Women’s
Short
Men’s
Bulk Fabric: Yes
■
No
x■
■
No
x■
x
■
■
■
substitute print
100% cotton
Sample fabric is:
Fiber Content:
Bulk Trim:
Yes
Sample trim is:
Vendor Handbook
not DTM
A-17
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
SAMPLE TAG EXAMPLES
(Note: not actual size)
Counter/Working Sample – White
FRONT
Fit Sample – Blue
BACK
FRONT
Merchandising Use Only
Brand Name:
Rejected
PO#:
Approved
Brand Name:
■
■
Approved with Corrections
Date:
■
PO#:
Rejected
Season:
Date Completed and Initials:
Season:
Date Received:
Fit Sample
■
Approved
Date:
Technical Design Use Only
Date Received:
Counter/Working
Sample
BACK
■
■
Group Name:
Group Name:
Style/Dev. #:
Comments:
Style/Dev. #:
Comments:
Description:
Description:
From:
From:
Office:
Office:
Vendor/Factory:
Vendor/Factory:
Ctry of Origin:
Ctry of Origin:
SAMPLE SIZE:
SAMPLE SIZE:
Missy
Reg
Petite
Tall
Women’s
Short
■
■
■
Overseas Office Use Only
Reg
Petite
Tall
Women’s
Short
Bulk Fabric: Yes
■
No
Comments:
Fit 1st ■ 2nd ■ 3rd ■
■
Bulk Fabric: Yes
Sample fabric is:
■
No
■
■
No
■
Sample fabric is:
Fiber Content:
Yes
■
■
■
Men’s
Comments:
Men’s
Bulk Trim:
Missy
Fiber Content:
■
No
■
Bulk Trim:
Sample trim is:
Yes
Sample trim is:
Photo Sample – Orange
(31⁄ 4" wide x31⁄ 2" long)
FRONT
Pre-Production Sample – Yellow
FRONT
Style #:_____________________________
Description:_________________________
Vendor/Factory:______________________
Brand Name:
Date:
Rejected
PO#:
■
■
Group Name:
BACK
Brand Name:
Bulk Fabric:
Yes
No
Bulk Trim:
Yes
No
Comments:
PO#:
■
■
Comments:
Style/Dev. #:
Description:
From:
Office:
From:
Office:
Vendor/Factory:
Vendor/Factory:
Ctry of Origin:
Ctry of Origin:
Missy
Reg
Petite
Tall
Women’s
Short
Men’s
Bulk Fabric: Yes
■
No
SAMPLE SIZE:
■
■
■
Missy
Reg
Petite
Tall
Women’s
Short
Comments:
Men’s
■
■
No
■
■
No
■
Sample fabric is:
Fiber Content:
Fiber Content:
Yes
■
No
■
Bulk Trim:
Sample trim is:
Yes
Sample trim is:
Vendor Handbook
A-18
■
■
■
Comments:
Bulk Fabric: Yes
Sample fabric is:
Bulk Trim:
Rejected
Season:
SAMPLE SIZE:
Color:______________________________
■
Group Name:
Comments:
Style/Dev. #:
Description:
Country of Origin:____________________
Approved
Date:
Season:
Date Received:
Production/TOP
Sample
■
Approved
BACK
Date Received:
Pre-Production
Sample
Brand Name:________________________
Season:____________________________
Production/TOP Sample – Pink
FRONT
Photo Sample
Date:______________________________
BACK
Spring, 2016
PHOTO SAMPLE REQUEST FORM
Requested By
Requested Date
Brand
Due Date
Vendor/Agent
Style Number
Description
Appleseed's requires 1 Photo Sample per color requested in a size 8 or Small.
Colors Requested
PHOTO SAMPLE REQUIREMENTS
- Samples must be received by the Due Date unless approved in advance by the Buyer or Sourcing. Unexpected delays should be
reported as soon as possible. Samples not received by the deadline may result in order cancellation.
- Photo samples should be produced using approved Bulk Fabric and Trims whenever possible. Substitutions for color, fabric, and trim
must be approved in advance by the Buyer or Sourcing. Please enclose a 6" x 6" swatch of the correct fabric with the Photo Sample, if
substitute fabric is used.
- Photo Samples must be ticketed with an orange Appleseed’s Photo Sample Hangtag. See Vendor Manual for details. Tags should be
attached at the CB top of the garments, hanging to the outside (neck, waistband, collar). Please attach at a seam, so not to damage the
garment. Include ALL details on the tag, noting when available fabrics, colors, or trims are used.
- Photo samples should not be produced until 1st fit comments are received, since styling and fit details should be reflected.
- All specs must be within 1/4" tolerance or will be subject to rejection. If a new sample cannot be produced by the Photo Sample
deadline, the order is subject to cancellation.
Photo Samples should be sent to:
Sourcing (Imports) or Buyer (Domestic)
35 Village Road, Suite 400
Middleton, MA 01949
978-304-4200
PHOTO SAMPLE REQUEST FORM
Requested By
Requested Date
Brand
Due Date
Vendor/Agent
Style Number
Description
Tog Shop Inc. requires 1 Photo Sample per color requested in a size 8 or Small.
Colors Requested
PHOTO SAMPLE REQUIREMENTS
- Samples must be received by the Due Date unless approved in advance by the Buyer or Sourcing. Unexpected delays should be
reported as soon as possible. Samples not received by the deadline may result in order cancellation.
- Photo samples should be produced using approved Bulk Fabric and Trims whenever possible. Substitutions for color, fabric, and trim
must be approved in advance by the Buyer or Sourcing. Please enclose a 6" x 6" swatch of the correct fabric with the Photo Sample, if
substitute fabric is used.
- Photo Samples must be ticketed with an orange Photo Sample Hangtag. See Vendor Manual for details. Tags should be attached at
the CB top of the garments, hanging to the outside (neck, waistband, collar). Please attach at a seam, so not to damage the garment.
Include ALL details on the tag, noting when available fabrics, colors, or trims are used.
- Photo samples should not be produced until 1st fit comments are received, since styling and fit details should be reflected.
- All specs must be within 1/4" tolerance or will be subject to rejection. If a new sample cannot be produced by the Photo Sample
deadline, the order is subject to cancellation.
Photo Samples should be sent to:
Sourcing (Imports) or Buyer (Domestic)
35 Village Road, Suite 400
Middleton, MA 01949
978-304-4200
SECTION A
UPDATED LABEL SUPPLIER INFORMATION
September 2015
The Appleseed’s and Tog Shop brands, including six various trademark labels, have streamlined the label
supplier base. Since Fall 2014, Label Masters has been selected as Our designated apparel label supplier.
Label Masters is a long-established key supplier for Orchard Brands. Label Masters’ notable service, quality
of product, reasonable pricing & minimums will better serve our business, our vendors, and ultimately our
customers. We believe you’ll agree. Many vendors may already have established relationships with Label
Masters through the EDI program or with a sister company. This, combined with the ease of online ordering, will contribute to a smooth and successful transition.
All woven garment main labels, size labels and care labels can now be directly ordered through their website.
For your reference, EDI / barcode stickers can also be ordered through Label Masters.
Please visit www.labelmasters.com to obtain your User ID and temporary password. You can then change
the password and place orders immediately. Use the filter to quickly access the label you need.
If you have an existing account, email [email protected] to add Appleseed's & Tog Shop brands to
your log-in.
Please contact [email protected] for any questions or concerns.
BRAND/LABEL TYPE
APPLESEED’S
LABEL CODES
Side-sew Misses
Side-sew Petites
Side-sew Womens
ASF-01M
ASF-01P
ASF-01W
Cut & Loop Misses
Cut & Loop Petites
Cut & Loop Womens
AL-02M
AL-02P
AL-02W
Coat (Big) Side-sew Misses
Coat (Big) Side-sew Petites
Coat (Big) Side-sew Womens
ACSF-04M
ACSF-04P
ACSF-04W
Accessory/Knit (small)
Side-sew Label
Main Size Loop Label
ASSF-03 (any size range)
Vendor Handbook
AS-SZ (order size specific)
A-21
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
THE TOG SHOP
Main Loop Label Misses
Main Loop Label Petites
Main Loop Label Womens
TTS-01M
TTS-01P
TTS-01W
Accessory/Sweater (small)
Side-sew Label
TTS-02 (any size range)
MONTEREY BAY
Main Loop Label
Main Side-Sew Label
LESTER SQUARE
Main Loop Label
HAYMAKER
Main Loop Label
ALL BRANDS PRINTED CARE LABEL Vendor Handbook
TTS-SZ (order size specific)
MBT-01 (any size range)
MBS-01 (any size range)
MB-SZ (order size specific)
LS-01
LS-SZ (order size specific)
HM-01
HM-SZ (order size specific)
CL-01
A-22
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
GARMENT LABELING REQUIREMENTS
Information:
Required by:
Comments:
1. Care Information
Federal LawMust be permanently affixed to garment,
and legible for the useful life of the garment
2. Country of Origin
Federal LawMust be permanently affixed to a
garment and in a visible location.
3.RN Number*, Manufacturer’s name, Federal law
Must be permanently affixed to a
or name or registered trade name
garment and in a visible location
4. Fiber Content
Federal lawMust be permanently affixed to garment
and on a conspicuous and readily
accessible label.
5. Size
All BrandsMust be permanently affixed to garment
6. Item Number
All BrandsMust be Brand’s Item Number, and be
permanently affixed to garment
7. Vendor Number
Monterey Bay onlyMust be Monterey Bay’s Vendor
Number, and be permanently affixed to
garment.Vendor Number can be found
on the purchase order.
•
•
•
•
•
All labels must be securely attached and free of loose threads.
In general, no stitching used to attach labels should be visible on the outside of the garment.
Attach all labels in a manner that eliminates raw edges on the label that may fray or unravel
Labels must be stitched with matching thread. Monofilament nylon thread is unacceptable.
In multi-piece garments that are sold as a set, please include all labels on each piece.
RN Numbers
* If Appleseed's/Monterey Bay/Tog Shop is the importer of record, use Appleseed's RN# 76915.
* If Vendor is the importer of record, use your vendor RN#.
ARTWORK:
Please contact [email protected] for artwork for use on Main & Heat Transfer
Labels, Sample Cards and Poly Bags.
Vendor Handbook
A-23
Spring, 2016
Updated
Labeling
Requirements
Updated
Labeling
Requirements
SECTION A
Starting
with Spring 09 we have made changes to our label requirements and placements Merchandise Procedures
Starting with Spring 09 we have made changes to our label requirements and placements
for Private Label and Imports.
Each garment
should have 3 labels.
Handwritten labels are
unacceptable. LABELS
LABELING
REQUIREMENTS:
SEWN-IN
Each garment
should have
3 labels. Handwritten labels
are unacceptable.
Label seam allowance should be 3/16”-1/4”. See requirements below for details.
Label seam
allowance
should
3/16”-1/4”and
. See
requirements
below
Our garment
label be
requirements
placement
requirements
arefor
as details.
follows:
Please contact labelsand [email protected] if there are questions, concerns, or
approval of variations
from
theseshould
standards.
• Each
garment
have 3 labels as detailed below. Handwritten labels are unacceptable.
approval
of variations
from
these standards.
•
Label
seam
allowance
should
be only
3/16"-1/4".
All info below should be used for general
layout
and not for artwork or color approval.
All info below •should
be used
for general layout only and not for artwork
or color
approval.
Please contact
[email protected]
if there are
questions,
concerns,
or approval of variations from these standards is needed.
Label 1:
Label 1:• All info below should be used for general layout only and not for artwork or color approval.
Main/Brand Label - As detailed in Technical Design Department Specification.
LABEL 1:
Main/Brand Label - As detailed in Technical Specification.
Label 2:
Label 2:
Size Label - Woven,
Size, County
LABEL DTM.
2: SizeIncludes
Label - Woven,
DTM. of Origin, and RN#.
Size Label
- Woven,
DTM. Includes Size, County of Origin, and RN#.
• Includes Size, County of Origin and RN#.
Appleseed’s
Appleseed’s
The Tog Shop
The Tog Shop
1/4” sew
space 1/4” sew
space
SIZE
approx.
SIZE
COUNTRY OF
7/8” approx.
COUNTRY OF
sewn 7/8” ORIGIN
sewn RN# ORIGIN
SIZE
SIZE
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
RN#
RN#
RN#
approx.
3/4” approx.
3/4”
Label 3:
Label 3:LABEL 3: Care Label - Printed, White, Paper or Satin, Loop or 2-Sided.
Care Label - Printed,• White,
Paper
or Satin,Item
Loop
or 2-Sided. # (if necessary/applicable), and Care Instructions on the
Include
Fiber Paper
Content,
#, Loop
VendororStyle
Care Label - Printed,
White,
or Satin,
2-Sided.
Includes Content, Item
#, Vendor
Style # (if necessary/applicable) and Care Instructions.
reverse
side.
Includes Content, Item #, Vendor Style # (if necessary/applicable) and Care Instructions.
Whenever possible,
wash
care symbols.
•include
Washinclude
care
symbols
acceptable,
but written care instructions must be provided in English.
Whenever
possible,
washarecare
symbols.
Item # can be
found
on
the
purchase
order
and
consists
4 to
6 alpha
• Item # can be found on the purchase orderof
and
consists
of 4numeric
to 6 alphacharacters.
numeric characters.
Item # can be found on the purchase order and consists of 4 to 6 alpha numeric characters.
Item #’s vary per size
range
Petite,
Womens,
etc.) Women's, etc.)
• Item
#’s (Misses,
vary per size
range
(Misses, Petite,
Item #’s vary per size range (Misses, Petite, Womens, etc.)
sew
space
BACK
FRONT
FRONT
BACK
sew
space
CONTENT
CONTENT
ITEM #
ITEM #
1 1/2”
long 1 1/2”VENDOR STYLE #
VENDOR STYLE #
long (IF APPLICABLE)
(IF APPLICABLE)
1” wide
CARE
CARE
INSTRUCTIONS
INSTRUCTIONS
1” wide
LOOP OR 2-SIDED PRINT
Vendor Handbook
A-24
Spring, 2016
Label 1:
Main/Brand
Label
SECTION
A - As detailed in Technical Design Department Specification.
Label 2:
APPLESEED'S: HEAT TRANSFER LABELS
Size Label - Woven, DTM. Includes Size, County of Origin, and RN#.
• Please contact [email protected] if there are questions, concerns, or approval of
variationsAppleseed’s
from these standards.
The Tog Shop
• All info below should be used
for general layout only and not for artwork or color approval.
1/4” sew
space
approx.
LABEL
1:
7/8”
SIZE
SIZE
Heat
Transfer – As detailed in Technical Specification.
COUNTRY OF
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
• Label
Color
–
Use
Light Acorn or White, depending on garment color.
ORIGIN
sewn
RN#
Request color approval from: [email protected] RN#
- Includes: Logo, Size Range, Size, Country of Origin, and RN#.
- Approximate dimensions are 43mm x 24mm.
Petites
PS
approx.
3/4”
Made in China
RN 76915
Label 3:
Care Label - LABEL
Printed,2:
White,
Paper or Satin, Loop or 2-Sided.
Care Label – Printed, White, Paper or Satin, Loop or 2-Sided.
Includes Content,
Item
#,
Vendor
Style #Vendor
(if necessary/applicable)
and Care
Style# (if necessary/applicable),
and Instructions.
Care Instructions on the reverse side.
• Include Fiber Content, Item#,
Whenever possible,
include
wash
care
symbols.
• Wash care symbols are acceptable, but written instructions must be provided in English.
Item # can be
found
onbe
the
purchase
and
consists
of 4 toof64alpha
numeric
characters.
• Item
# can
found
on the order
purchase
order
and consists
to 6 alpha
numeric
characters.
Item #’s vary• per
range
Petite,
Womens,
etc.)
Itemsize
#'s vary
per(Misses,
size range
(Misses,
Petite, Women's,
etc.)
BACK
FRONT
sew
space
CONTENT
ITEM #
1 1/2”
long
VENDOR STYLE #
(IF APPLICABLE)
CARE
INSTRUCTIONS
1” wide
Vendor Handbook
A-25
Spring, 2016
Label 1:
Main/Brand
Label
SECTION
A - As detailed in Technical Design Department Specification.
Label 2:
TOG SHOP: HEAT TRANSFER LABELS
variationsAppleseed’s
from these standards.
The Tog Shop
• All info below should be used
for general layout only and not for artwork or color approval.
1/4” sew
space
approx.
LABEL
1:
7/8”
SIZE
SIZE
Heat
Transfer – As detailed in Technical Specification.
COUNTRY OF
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
• Label
Color
–
Use
Black or White, depending on garment color.
ORIGIN
sewn
RN#
Request color approval from: [email protected] RN#
- Includes: Logo, Size Range, Size, Country of Origin, and RN#.
- Approximate dimensions are 45mm x 28mm.
S
Made in China
RN 76915
approx.
3/4”
Label 3:
Care Label - LABEL
Printed,2:
White,
Includes Content,
Item
#,
Vendor
Style #Vendor
and Care
and Instructions.
Care Instructions on the reverse side.
Whenever possible,
include
wash
care
symbols.
Item # can be
found
onbe
the
purchase
and
consists
of 4 toof64alpha
numeric
characters.
• Item
# can
found
on the order
purchase
order
and consists
to 6 alpha
numeric
characters.
range
Petite,
Womens,
etc.)
Itemsize
#'s vary
per(Misses,
size range
(Misses,
Petite, Women's,
etc.)
BACK
FRONT
sew
space
CONTENT
ITEM #
1 1/2”
long
VENDOR STYLE #
(IF APPLICABLE)
CARE
INSTRUCTIONS
1” wide
Vendor Handbook
A-26
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
Updated
Labeling REQUIREMENTS
Requirements
MONTEREY BAY
LABELING
– OPTION 1 (PREFERRED)
Starting with
Springgarment
09 we have
made
our label requirements
and placements
• Each
should
havechanges
3 labels.toHandwritten
labels are unacceptable.
• Label seam allowance should be 3/16"-1/4". See requirements below for details.
Each garment should have 3 labels. Handwritten labels are unacceptable.
Label seam allowance should be 3/16”-1/4”. See requirements below for details.
variations from these standards or for samples and ordering information.
•
All info below
should
be used for general layout only and not for artwork or color approval.
approval of variations
from these
standards.
All info below should be used for general layout only and not for artwork or color approval.
LABEL 1:
Main/Brand Label – Loop or Side Sew, as detailed in Technical Specification.
LABEL 2:
Size Label – Woven. Includes Size, Country of Origin, and RN#.
Label 1:
• Label Color – BLACK with white lettering.
Label 2:
• Label Color – BLACK with white lettering. Except White or Light or Sheer fabrics.
Monterey Bay – Black
Appleseed’s
1/4” sew
space
approx.
7/8”
sewn
SIZE
approx.
7/8"
sewn
1/4"
sewTog
The
space
SIZE
Shop
SIZE
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
RN#
RN#
RN#
approx.
3/4”
approx.
3/4"
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
Label 3:
3: Care
– Printed,
Care Label - LABEL
Printed, White,
PaperLabel
or Satin,
Loop orWhite,
2-Sided.
Content,
Item#,
Vendor Style# (if necessary/applicable),
and Care Instructions on the reverse side.
• Include
Includes Content,
ItemFiber
#, Vendor
Style
# (if necessary/applicable)
and Care Instructions.
Whenever possible,
include
wash
care
symbols.
Item # can be
found# on
and consists
4 toconsists
6 alpha of
numeric
• Item
canthe
be purchase
found onorder
the purchase
orderofand
5 to 6 characters.
alpha numeric characters.
Item #’s vary•per
size
(Misses,
Womens,Petite,
etc.) Women's, etc.)
Item
#'srange
vary per
size Petite,
range (Misses,
BACK
FRONT
sew
space
CONTENT
ITEM #
1 1/2”
long
VENDOR STYLE #
(IF APPLICABLE)
CARE
INSTRUCTIONS
1” wide
Vendor Handbook
A-27
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
MONTEREY BAY LABELING REQUIREMENTS – OPTION 2
• Each garment should have 2 labels. Handwritten labels are unacceptable.
• Label seam allowance should be 3/16"-1/4". See requirements below for details.
variations from these standards or for samples and ordering information.
• All info below should be used for general layout only and not for artwork or color approval.
LABEL 1: Main/Brand Label – Loop or Side Sew, as detailed in Technical Specification.
• Label Color – BLACK with white lettering.
LABEL 2:
Size/Care Label – Woven.
• Includes Size, Country of Origin, RN#, Fiber Content, Item#, Vendor#, and Care Instructions on the reverse side.
• Label Color – BLACK with White lettering.
• Item # can be found on the purchase order and consists of 5 to 6 alpha numeric characters.
• Item #'s vary per size range (Misses, Petite, Women's, etc.)
Monterey Bay – Black
sew
space
FRONT
BACK
SIZE
1 1/2"
long
CARE
INSTRUCTIONS
CONTENT
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
ITEM #
RN #
VENDOR #
1" wide
Vendor Handbook
A-28
Spring, 2016
approval of variations from these standards.
All info below should be used for general layout only and not for artwork or color approval.
SECTION A
Label 1:
Main/BrandMONTEREY
Label - As detailed in
Technical
Design TRANSFER
Department Specification.
BAY:
HEAT
LABELS
Label 2:
variations from these standards.
Size Label - Woven,
oflayout
Origin,
and
RN#.
• All infoDTM.
below Includes
should be Size,
used County
for general
only
and
not for artwork or color approval.
Appleseed’s
LABEL 1: Heat Transfer1/4”
– As detailed in Technical Specification. The Tog Shop
sew
• Label Color – Use Black orspace
White, depending on garment color.
Request
color approval
from [email protected]. SIZE
SIZE
approx.
Logo
COUNTRY
OF Content, Country of Origin, RN#, Vendor#, and Size.
7/8”- Includes:
COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN
sewn- Approximate
dimensions are 58mm x 10mm for Monterey Bay logo.ORIGIN
RN#
RN#
®
CONTENT
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
RN #
VENDOR #
SIZE
approx.
3/4”
Label 3:
Care Label - LABEL
Printed,2:
White,
Includes Content,
Item
#,
Vendor
Style #Vendor
and Care
Instructions.
and Care
Instructions on the reverese side.
Whenever possible,
include
wash
care
symbols.
Item # can be
found
onbe
the
purchase
and
consists
of 4 toof65alpha
numeric
characters.
• Item
# can
found
on the order
purchase
order
and consists
to 6 alpha
numeric
characters.
range
Petite,
Womens,
etc.)
Itemsize
#'s vary
per(Misses,
size range
(Misses,
Petite, Women's,
etc.)
BACK
FRONT
sew
space
CONTENT
ITEM #
1 1/2”
long
VENDOR STYLE #
(IF APPLICABLE)
CARE
INSTRUCTIONS
1” wide
Vendor Handbook
A-29
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
APPLESEEDS
LABEL
OPTIONS
APPLESEEDS
LABELPLACEMENT
PLACEMENT OPTIONS
JACKETS/TOPS/SHIRTS/DRESSES/ETC.
JACKETS/TOPS/SHIRTS/DRESSES/ETC
Page 11 OF
of 22
PAGE
Side Seam Content Labeling
(If side slit more than 4in, sew 2in above slit.)
Main Label and Size Labels
ALPTP01 - Top – Loop
ALPTP02 - Knit/Sweater - Side Sew
ALPTP03 - Top - Bound
Neckline/Zipper - Loop
ALPTP04 - Top - Center on Facing –
Side Sew
ALPTP05 - Knit/Sweater – Loop
ALPTP06 - Top - Tacked at CB - Loop
(Note: Care Label at SS will also be
tacked for easy removal)
ALPTP07 - Knit/Sweater - Small Label
ALPTP08 - Top - Bound Neckline Loop
Vendor Handbook
A-30
ALPTP09 - Top - Back Zip – Side Sew
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
APPLESEEDS
LABEL
OPTIONS
APPLESEEDS
LABEL PLACEMENT
PLACEMENT OPTIONS
Page
22
PAGE22ofOF
ALPTP12 - Top - Yoke/Facing/Lining –
Side Sew
ALPTP11 - Knit – Printed
ALPTP13 - Knit/Sweater - Turn Back Loop
ALPTP14 - Knit/Sweater – Turtleneck Loop
Refer to Technical Specifications from Technical Design Department for complete and detailed instructions.
Label Codes:
Appleseeds Loop Labels
AL-02M use for Misses and Misses Tall
AL-02P use for Petite
AL-02W use for Womens and Womens Petite
Appleseeds Side Sew Labels
ASF-01M use for Misses and Misses Tall
ASF-01P use for Petite
ASF-01W use for Womens and Womens Petite
Appleseeds Accessory and Knit Label
ASSF-03 use as directed for Accessories, Shoes, Knits and Sweaters (all size categories).
Vendor Handbook
A-31
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
APPLESEEDS
LABELPLACEMENT
PLACEMENT OPTIONS
APPLESEEDS
LABEL
OPTIONS
PANTS
PANTS
ALPPT01 - Pant w/Back Elastic - Loop
ALPPT02 – Pant - Flat back, no zipper
- Loop
ALPPT03 - Pant w/Back Zipper - Loop
ALPPT04 - Pant Lined w/Back Zip –
Side Sew
ALPPT05 - Pant w/Back Facing/Yoke –
Side Sew
ALPPT06 - Pant w/Back Zip and
Facing/Yoke – Side Sew
Label Codes:
Vendor Handbook
A-32
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
APPLESEEDS
OPTIONS
APPLESEEDSLABEL
LABEL PLACEMENT
PLACEMENT OPTIONS
SKIRTS
SKIRTS
ALPSK01 - Skirt w/Back Elastic - Loop
ALPSK02 – Skirt - Flat back, no zipper
- Loop
ALPSK03 - Skirt w/Back Zipper - Loop
ALPSK04 - Skirt Lined w/Back Zip –
Side Sew
ALPSK05 - Skirt w/Back Facing/Yoke –
Side Sew
ALPSK06 - Skirt w/Back Zip and
Facing/Yoke – Side Sew
Label Codes:
Vendor Handbook
A-33
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
APPLESEEDS LABEL PLACEMENT OPTIONS
APPLESEEDS LABEL
PLACEMENT OPTIONS
COATS
COATS
(Sew in wearer’s left side seam, 18in down from HPS.)
ALPCT01 - Coat w/Patch – Outerwear Label
ALPCT02 - Coat – Outerwear Label
Label Codes:
Appleseeds Outerwear Labels
ACSF-04M use for Misses
ACSF-04P use for Petite
ACSF-04W use for Womens
Vendor Handbook
A-34
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
THE TOG
SHOPLABEL
LABEL PLACEMENT
OPTIONS
THE TOG
SHOP
PLACEMENT
OPTIONS
Page
PAGE 1
1 of
OF22
TLPTP01 - Top
TLPTP02 - Knit/Sweater
TLPTP03 - Top - Bound
Neckline/Zipper
TLPTP04 - Top - Center on Facing
TLPTP05 - Knit/Sweater
TLPTP06 - Top - Tacked at CB
(Note: Care Label at SS will also be
tacked for easy removal)
TLPTP07 – Sweaters Only
TLPTP08 – Bound Neckline
Vendor Handbook
A-35
TLPTP09 - Top – Back Zip
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
THE THE
TOG
SHOP
PLACEMENT
OPTIONS
TOG
SHOP LABEL
LABEL PLACEMENT
OPTIONS
Page
22
PAGE22ofOF
TLPTP10 - Top - Yoke/Facing/Lining
TLPTP11 - Knit – Printed
TLPTP13 - Knit/Sweater - Turteneck
TLPTP14 - Knit/Sweater – Turteneck
with Zipper
TLPTP12 - Knit/Sweater - Turn Back
Label Codes:
The Tog Shop Manhattan Fold Labels
TTS-01 use for Misses, Misses Tall, and Misses Short
TTS-02 use for Petite and Petite Short
TTS-03 use for Womens, Womens Petite, and Womens Short
TTS-04 use for Sweaters (Misses, Petite and Womens) and Accessories
Vendor Handbook
A-36
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
THE TOG
SHOPLABEL
LABEL PLACEMENT
OPTIONS
THE TOG
SHOP
PLACEMENT
OPTIONS
PANTS
PANTS
TLPPT01 - Pant w/Back Elastic
TLPPT02 – Pant - Flat back, no zipper
TLPPT03 - Pant w/Back Zipper
TLPPT04 - Pant Lined w/Back Zip
TLPPT05 - Pant w/Back Facing/Yoke
TLPPT06 - Pant w/Back Zip and
Facing/Yoke
Label Codes:
Vendor Handbook
A-37
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
THE TOG SHOP LABEL PLACEMENT OPTIONS
SKIRTS
THE TOG SHOP LABEL
PLACEMENT OPTIONS
SKIRTS
TLPSK01 - Skirt w/Back Elastic
TLPSK02 – Skirt - Flat back, no zipper
TLPSK03 - Skirt w/Back Zipper
TLPSK04 - Skirt Lined w/Back Zip
TLPSK05 - Skirt w/Back Facing/Yoke
TLPSK06 - Skirt w/Back Zip and
Facing/Yoke
Label Codes:
Vendor Handbook
A-38
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
COATS
COATS
(Sew in wearer’s left side seam, 18in down from HPS.)
TLPCT01 - THE TOG SHOP - Coat w/Patch
TLPCT02 - THE TOG SHOP - Coat
Vendor Handbook
A-39
Spring, 2016
SECTION A
PACKAGING INFORMATION
FOR PRIVATE LABEL AND DIRECT IMPORTS
For Private Label and Direct Imports, refer to Technical Department Approved Specifications of each style
for detailed folding and packaging instructions.
Email [email protected] with any questions concerning apparel labels and packaging.
Logo Polybags: Polybags should include the current Appleseed’s and Tog Shop logos. Monterey Bay logo
bags are not required. Appleseed's bags may be used.
Please email [email protected] for current artwork or exception.
Polybag Sizes: All garments must be in appropriate sized polybags, not packed too loosely or too tightly.
Be sure to accommodate the largest sizes. Please use 2 or 3 polybag sizes, if necessary, to accommodate
all size categories. Approve polybag sizes for apparel with the Technical Designer.
Flat packed apparel: Garments with shoulder pads must be folded beyond shoulder pads to prevent
damage or distortion to shoulder pads. Polybag sizes must be appropriate for the shipping carton,
refer to Orchard Brands DC Manual.
Extra button bag: must be a small paper envelope attached to size label with swift tack. For garments with
Heat Transfer Labels (HTL), attach button envelope through care label with swift tack. Appleseed’s and Tog
Shop logos are preferred on button envelopes. Please contact [email protected] for
current artwork.
Refer to Orchard Brands DC Manual for additional requirements including EDI / barcode concerns.
http://orchardhomeservices.com/vendor-relations/
CARTON LABELLING AND ASN REQUIREMENTS
Jennifer Gray at 814-563-5275 [email protected]
or Renee Schott at 814-563-5250 [email protected]
In order to ensure a timely receipt of your product in our Distribution Center, we require compliance to
our Shipping Requirements. We are a fully automated facility, so failure to comply with these requirements
could result in delays, chargebacks, and could impact our ability to buy your product. Full details of these
expectations are accessible in our vendor relations link: http://orchardhomeservices.com/vendor-relations/
Please refer to the documents under the "Orchard Brands" section.
Vendor Handbook
A-40
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
HOW TO MEASURE
SECTION B
How To Measure
APPLESEED’S & THE TOG SHOP SIZE SPECIFICATIONS
HOW TO MEASURE
FOR THE PERFECT FIT
BUST: Measure around the fullest
part of the bust, ensuring the tape
stays level around the shoulder
blades and under your arms.
WAIST: Measure around your
natural waistline, keeping the
tape comfortable.
HIPS: Measure around fullest part
of hips, keeping tape parallel to
floor approx. 7.5" below waist for
Misses, 8" below for Women’s,
7" below for Petite.
TOPS: Measure from centerback
neck down to hem edge.
DRESS LENGTH: Measure from
HPS (high point shoulder) straight
down to hem edge.
SKIRT LENGTH: Measure from
natural waist down to hem edge.
INSEAM: Measure inside leg from
crotch straight down to hem edge.
TO DETERMINE YOUR SIZE, COMPARE YOUR MEASUREMENTS (IN INCHES) TO THESE SIZE CHARTS
Misses, Misses Tall &
Misses Short Sizes
Sizes Bust WaistHips
6 351⁄2291⁄238
S
8 361⁄2301⁄239
10 371⁄2311⁄240
M 12 39 33 411⁄2
14 401⁄2341⁄243
L
16 42 36 441⁄2
18 44 38 461⁄2
XL
20 46 40 481⁄2
22 48 42 501⁄2
XXL
24 50 44 521⁄2
Misses Inseam Lengths: 29"-31"
Misses Short Inseam Lengths: 27"-29"
Misses Tall Sizes: 5'81⁄2"-5'11"
Misses Tall Inseam Lengths: 31"-32"
Garments are adjusted in length only
for Misses Short
Petite Sizes
Women’s
Sizes BustWaistHips
4P 34 28 361⁄2
6P 35 29 371⁄2
PS
8P 36 30 381⁄2
10P 37 31391⁄2
PM
12P 381⁄2321⁄241
14P 40 34 421⁄2
PL
16P 411⁄2351⁄244
18P 431⁄2371⁄246
PXL
20P 451⁄2391⁄248
Sizes BustWaistHips
14W 43 371⁄245
0X
16W 45 391⁄247
18W 47 411⁄249
1X
20W 49 431⁄251
22W 51 451⁄253
2X
24W 53 471⁄255
26W 55 491⁄257
3X
28W 57 511⁄259
Petite Inseam Lengths: 27"-29"
Petite Short Inseam Lengths: 26"
PETITE SIZES 4'11"-5'4"
Garments are adjusted proportionately in
length & width for Petite.
Women’s Inseam Lengths: 29"-31"
Women’s Short Inseam Lengths: 27"-29"
Marketing promotions
in this catalog cannot be
combined with other offers.
The above size chart is placed into each of our catalogs to give the
customer a guideline as to how to choose the correct size.
Vendor Handbook
B-1
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
BASIC GUIDELINES
* All measurements must be taken in inches to the nearest 1/8". For quality auditing,
measurements should be taken on the wearer’s right side of body.
* Measurements must be taken with standard non-stretch fiberglass or metal tape measure.
The tape measure should be checked periodically for accuracy against a steel ruler.
* Measurements must be taken with closures (ex. buttons and zippers) fully closed,
unless otherwise noted.
* Button spacing is measured from center of button to center of button.
* Knit (Cut & Sew) and Sweater body measurements are measured as width measurements.
Woven body measurements are measured as circumference measurements.
- Width measurement is measured at front with garment laid flat from edge
to edge of garment. Width should be half of a circumference measurement.
- Circumference measurement is the total measurement around the garment
including front and back. Usually taking half the measurement (width measurement)
and doubling the measurement.
* For knits and stretch fabrics, extended measurements are taken by releasing gathers in the
fabric without using the stretch inherent in the fabric. The garment should not be overextended
or distorted.
* For curved seams, such as rises and armholes, stand the tape measure on edge along the seam.
* Garments with pleats, the measurement specification should specify if measurements are taken
with pleats open or closed.
* - Garments with binding or tubular trims are measured to edge.
- Garments with insets, bandings, or ribs trims are measured to seam.
* The following industry standard abbreviations are used in this Handbook:
CB = Center Back
CF = Center Front
HPS = High Point Shoulder
IL = Imaginary Line
* Any place a (/) was used means the intersection of 2 places. Ex. armhole/shoulder means
the place where the armhole meets the shoulder.
* Technical specifications may have more specific measurements and requirements than the
Handbook. Contact the appropriate Technical Designer if additional clarification is needed.
MEASURING FOUNDATION
* Laying the garment properly and establishing key measuring points is the foundation for
correctly measuring a garment. Please review this section before measuring a garment.
* All measurements must be taken with garment on a flat surface in a natural position and free of
tension and wrinkles. Garment should not be stretched. Do not run your hand between the tape
and the fabric or pull the fabric as you measure.
* Pants – See also page B-23 for additional pant measuring foundation instructions.
Vendor Handbook
B-2
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
MEASURING FOUNDATION (CON’T)
HIGH POINT SHOULDER (HPS):
* Lay garment flat. Align, straighten and smooth out body beginning at chest. Continue to
straighten to shoulder to find HPS. HPS is the location where natural fold of shoulder meets neck.
* If shoulder seam rolls forward, HPS is taken at high point, not shoulder seam.
* HPS can be taken at front or back of garments (all sketches below are shown from back).
At Seam
With Inset, Banding, and Rib Trim
Refer to spec
With Collar
At Edge
With Binding or Tubular Trim
Refer to spec
Faced, Turn Back, Clean Finish
SHOULDER FORWARD:
Lay garment flat with front facing up. Align, straighten and smooth out body beginning at chest.
Continue to straighten to shoulder to find natural fold of shoulder. If shoulder seam is forward
from fold; measure from natural fold of shoulder to seam.
Vendor Handbook
B-3
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
MEASURING FOUNDATION (CON’T)
IMAGINARY LINE (IL):
* Imaginary Line is a straight line created by connecting HPS to HPS.
Imaginary Line is perpendicular to Center Front or Center Back.
CF/CB
IL
BIAS CUT GARMENTS:
Lay garment flat and loose (do not stretch) on a large flat surface. Straighten the entire garment
along warp and weft grainlines (on the diagonal). While straightening along the diagonal,
note when you achieve the proper warp and weft grainlines when the fabric does not stretch.
Then take all measurements possible as directed in manual without shifting or readjusting the
garment. If necessary, turn over, re-straighten and continue to take remaining measurements.
Vendor Handbook
B-4
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
BODY LENGTHS
BODY LENGTH FROM HPS:
Measure at front or back (as directed), parallel to Center Front or Center Back,
from HPS (seam or edge) to bottom edge of garment.
IL
IL
BODY LENGTH AT CENTER BACK (CB):
Measure at Center Back from neck (seam or edge) to bottom edge of garment.
Vendor Handbook
B-5
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
BODY LENGTHS (CON’T)
BODICE LENGTH FROM HPS:
Measure at front or back (as directed), parallel to Center Front or Center Back,
from HPS (seam or edge) to specified seam or bottom edge of garment.
To Empire Seam
To Waist Seam
IL
IL
SKIRT LENGTH:
(for skirts or dresses with waist seam or band)
Measure at Center Back from waist seam, waist stitch, or waist top edge
(refer to spec) to bottom edge of garment.
From Seam/
Below Band
From Bottom Stitching
Vendor Handbook
B-6
From Top Edge/
Top of Band
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
SHOULDER AND NECKLINE REGION
SHOULDER SLOPE:
* Method 1 - Straight Edge:
Adjust garment so HPS points are level. Use a straight edge to connect the two points to
form the imaginary line that extends beyond the shoulder. Measure perpendicular to line
from imaginary line to the shoulder point.
* Method 2 - Clear Ruler:
Adjust garment so HPS points are level. Place a 2" x 18" clear ruler across, connecting the
two points to form the imaginary line using the top edge of the ruler. Measure using ruler,
perpendicular to line from imaginary line (ruler top edge) to the shoulder point.
Method 1
Method 2
IL
IL
ACROSS SHOULDER:
Measure straight across front or back of garment at natural shoulder
from armhole to armhole (seam or edge, refer to spec).
At Front
Edge To Edge
At Back
Sleeveless - Front or Back
Edge To Edge
With Binding or Tubular
Vendor Handbook
B-7
Seam To Seam
With Inset, Banding or Rib
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
SHOULDER AND NECKLINE REGION (CON’T)
ACROSS FRONT OR BACK:
Lay garment flat with front or back facing up. Measure at X" down (refer to spec) from
Imaginary Line (IL), perpendicular to grainline, from armhole to armhole (seam or edge, refer to spec).
Across Front
Across Back
IL
IL
X”
X”
Sleeveless - Front or Back
Edge To Edge
Edge To Edge
IL
IL
IL
X”
Seam To Seam
With Inset, Banding or Rib
X”
X”
MINIMUM NECK CIRCUMFERENCE:
Align neckline edges. Measure opening along neck seam or edge with garment fully extended.
Double the measurement. Use the natural stretch of the fabric, but do not overextend
(ie. do not break stitching). The specified amount is a minimum; garment must meet
or exceed the specification.
Vendor Handbook
B-8
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
NECK WIDTH AT FRONT OR BACK:
HPS/Edge to HPS/Edge: Measure from HPS/Edge to HPS/Edge.
HPS/Seam to HPS/Seam: Measure from HPS/Seam to HPS/Seam.
At Front - Edge to Edge
Refer to spec
With Collar
At Front - Seam to Seam
With Inset, Banding, or Rib Trim
Refer to spec
At Back - Edge to Edge
Refer to spec
At Back - Seam to Seam
Refer to spec
With Collar
Vendor Handbook
B-9
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
FRONT NECK DROP FROM HPS:
Create imaginary line using ruler or straight edge by connecting HPS to HPS.
HPS/Edge to Edge: Measure parallel to Center Front from Imaginary Line to neck edge.
HPS/Seam to Seam: Measure parallel to Center Front from Imaginary Line to neck seam.
HPS (Edge or Seam) to 1st Button: Measure parallel to Center Front from
Imaginary Line to center of 1st button.
HPS (Edge or Seam) to Cross Point: Measure parallel to Center Front from
Imaginary Line to Cross Point (Location where neckline edge intersects at Center Front).
HPS/Edge to Edge
Refer to spec
HPS/Seam to Seam
With Collar
Refer to spec
OR
HPS (Seam or Edge) to _______
HPS (Seam or Edge) to Cross Point
HPS (Seam or Edge) to 1st Button
Vendor Handbook
B-10
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
BACK NECK DROP FROM HPS:
Create imaginary line using ruler or straight edge by connecting HPS to HPS.
HPS/Edge to Edge: Measure parallel to Center Back from Imaginary Line to neck edge.
HPS/Seam to Seam: Measure parallel to Center Back from Imaginary Line to neck seam.
Note: Depending on styling, back neck drop may be taken with front of garment facing up.
HPS/Edge to Edge
Refer to spec
HPS/Seam to Seam
With Collar
Refer to spec
OR
Vendor Handbook
B-11
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
ARMHOLES
ARMHOLE SEAM OR EDGE – WIDTH:
Align front and back armhole. With tape measure standing, measure along curve of armhole
(seam or edge) from edge to edge.
ARMHOLE SEAM OR EDGE - CIRCUMFERENCE:
Align front and back armhole. With tape measure standing, measure along curve of armhole
(seam or edge) from edge to edge. Double the measurement.
Armhole - Set In
Sleeveless
Along Edge
Along Edge
Along Seam
With Inset, Banding, or Rib
RAGLAN SEAM (FRONT OR BACK):
With tape measure standing, measure along front or back curve of raglan seam from neck
(seam or edge) to armhole/sideseam.
RAGLAN STRAIGHT:
Measure straight from CB neck (seam or edge) to armhole/sideseam.
Front or Back Armhole
Along Raglan Seam
Vendor Handbook
Raglan - Straight
B-12
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
ARMHOLES (CON’T)
ARMHOLE WIDTH - STRAIGHT:
Lay garment flat. Measure straight from armhole/shoulder point to armhole/side edge.
Armhole - Straight
Edge to Edge
Sleeveless
Edge to Edge
Vendor Handbook
B-13
Seam to Seam
With Inset, Banding, or Rib
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
SLEEVES
SLEEVE LENGTH FROM SHOULDER:
Measure along center fold of sleeve from armhole to bottom edge.
SLEEVE LENGTH (3-POINT) FROM CB NECK:
Measure straight from Center Back neck to armhole/shoulder point,
then along center fold of sleeve to bottom edge.
SLEEVE LENGTH (2-POINT) FROM CB NECK:
Measure straight from Center Back neck to bottom edge of sleeve.
From Shoulder
From Center Back (3-point)
From Center Back (2-point)
Vendor Handbook
B-14
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
SLEEVES (CON’T)
SLEEVE MUSCLE-BICEP WIDTH:
Measure sleeve at 1" down from armhole, perpendicular to grainline,
from edge to edge of garment.
SLEEVE MUSCLE-BICEP CIRCUMFERENCE:
Measure sleeve at 1" down from armhole, perpendicular to grainline,
from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
SLEEVE FOREARM WIDTH:
Mark point along inseam, X" up (refer to spec) from bottom edge. Measure sleeve
at marked position, perpendicular to grainline, from edge to edge of garment.
SLEEVE FOREARM CIRCUMFERENCE:
Mark point along inseam, X" up (refer to spec) from bottom edge. Measure sleeve at marked
position, perpendicular to grainline, from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
CUFF OR SLEEVE OPENING WIDTH: (ALSO SEE NEXT PAGE)
Measure along edge of sleeve or cuff opening from edge to edge.
For Cuffs with Button Closure: Measure cuff closed, buttoned.
For Cuff or Sleeve Opening Extended: Stretch elastic to release all gathers.
Do not over extend knits.
CUFF OR SLEEVE OPENING CIRCUMFERENCE: (ALSO SEE NEXT PAGE)
Measure along edge of sleeve or cuff opening from edge to edge. Double the measurement.
For Cuffs with Button Closure: Measure cuff closed, buttoned.
For Cuff or Sleeve Opening Extended: Stretch elastic to release all gathers. Do not over extend knits.
Muscle-Bicep
Forearm
Grain
line
Sleeve Opening
1”
X”
Vendor Handbook
B-15
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
SLEEVES (CON’T)
SLEEVE OR CUFF OPENING VARIATIONS:
Button Closure (Closed)
Ribbed Finish
Relaxed
Extended
CUFF HEIGHT:
Measure height from top of cuff to bottom edge.
Separate
Knit Banded
Vendor Handbook
B-16
Sweater
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
GARMENT WIDTH OR CIRCUMFERENCE
CHEST OR BUST WIDTH:
Measure 1" down from armhole from edge to edge of garment. Eliminate all wrinkles at
front and back of garment to ensure accurate measurement. Do not flatten bust fullness.
CHEST OR BUST CIRCUMFERENCE:
Measure 1" down from armhole from edge to edge of garment. Eliminate all wrinkles at
front and back of garment to ensure accurate measurement. Do not flatten bust fullness.
Double the measurement.
1”
CHEST OR BUST WIDTH (WITH BUST SHAPING,
IE. PRINCESS SEAMS OR DARTS):
Flatten garment with front facing up. Make sure overlap at center front is set properly. Side seams
may roll to the back. Place tape measure 1" down from armhole and walk it across the fullest
part of the bust area. Eliminate all wrinkles at front and back of the garment to ensure an accurate
measurement (See step 1–3).
CHEST OR BUST CIRCUMFERENCE
(WITH BUST SHAPING, IE. PRINCESS SEAMS OR DARTS):
As above, then Double the Measurement.
Vendor Handbook
B-17
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
GARMENT WIDTH OR CIRCUMFERENCE (CON’T)
WAIST POSITION AT FRONT FROM HPS:
To waist position: Measure at front, parallel to Center Front, from HPS (seam or edge)
to waist position (refer to spec). Mark waist position.
To waist seam: Measure at front, parallel to Center Front, from HPS (seam or edge) to waist seam.
HIGH HIP POSITION AT FRONT FROM HPS:
Measure at front, parallel to Center Front, from HPS (seam or edge) to high hip position
(refer to spec). Mark high hip position.
LOW HIP POSITION AT FRONT FROM HPS:
Measure at front, parallel to Center Front, from HPS (seam or edge) to low hip position
(refer to spec). Mark low hip position.
X” Waist
X” High Hip
X” Low Hip
WAIST MEASUREMENT POSITIONS (BOTTOMS):
Along Top Edge/
Along Top of Band
At Middle of Band
Vendor Handbook
B-18
refer to spec for position
At Waist Seam/
At Bottom of Band/
At Bottom Row of Stitching
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
WAIST
WAIST WIDTH (FOR: TOPS, JACKETS, SWEATERS, OR DRESSES):
Measure at waist position (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment.
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE
(FOR: TOPS, JACKETS, SWEATERS, OR DRESSES):
Measure at waist position (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
WAIST WIDTH RELAXED (BOTTOMS):
Align top edge of front and back waistband. Measure at middle of waistband, waist seam,
waist stitch, or waist top edge (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment.
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE RELAXED (BOTTOMS):
Align top edge of front and back waistband. Measure at middle of waistband, waist seam,
waist stitch, or waist top edge (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
WAIST WIDTH EXTENDED (BOTTOMS):
Stretch elastic waist to release all gathers. Do not over extend stretch fabrics. Measure at middle of
waistband or waist top edge (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment.
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE EXTENDED (BOTTOMS):
Stretch elastic waist to release all gathers. Do not over extend stretch fabrics. Measure at middle of
waistband or waist top edge (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
Jacket, Dress, Top, or Sweater
Bottoms - Standard
X”
Bottoms - Relaxed
Bottoms - Extended
Vendor Handbook
B-19
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
HIGH HIP
HIGH HIP WIDTH (FOR: TOPS, JACKETS, SWEATERS, OR DRESSES):
Measure at high hip position (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment.
HIGH HIP CIRCUMFERENCE
Measure at high hip position (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
HIGH HIP WIDTH (BOTTOMS):
For Pants: Mark hip position along sideseams and Center Back from waist seam, waist stitch,
or waist top edge (refer to spec). Measure straight using marked hip positions from edge
to Center Back to edge (3 points).
For Skirts: Mark hip position at center back. Measure along hipline using marked hip positions.
Straight skirts: Measure straight across at back for hipline.
A-line skirts: Measure along curved hipline from edge to Center Back to edge (curved).
For Women's: Measure using 5 points.
HIGH HIP CIRCUMFERENCE (BOTTOMS):
or waist top edge (refer to spec). Measure straight using marked hip positions from edge
to Center Back to edge (3 points). Double the measurement.
Double the measurement.
X”
X”
X”
Skirts - Straight
Pants/Shorts - 3 Point
X”
BACK
BACK
FRONT
X”
Skirts - A-Line Curved
X”
X”
X”
BACK
Vendor Handbook
B-20
Winter, 2011
SECTION B
How To Measure
LOW HIP
LOW HIP WIDTH (FOR: TOPS, JACKETS, SWEATERS, OR DRESSES):
Measure at low hip position (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment.
LOW HIP CIRCUMFERENCE
Measure at low hip position (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
LOW HIP WIDTH (BOTTOMS):
or waist top edge (refer to spec). Measure straight using marked hip positions from edge to
Center Back to edge (3 points).
LOW HIP CIRCUMFERENCE (BOTTOMS):
or waist top edge (refer to spec). Measure straight using marked hip positions from edge to
Center Back to edge (3 points). Double the measurement.
For Skirts: Mark hip position at center back. Measure along hipline using marked hip positions. Double the measurement.
Pants/Shorts - 3 Point
Skirts - Straight
X”
X”
BACK
X”
X”
BACK
FRONT
X”
Skirts - A-Line Curved
X”
X”
X”
BACK
Vendor Handbook
B-21
Winter, 2011
SECTION B
How To Measure
SWEEP OR BOTTOM OPENING
SWEEP OR BOTTOM OPENING WIDTH:
Straight or Top of Slits: Measure straight across at bottom opening
or top of slits or vent (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment.
Along edge: Measure along bottom edge from edge to edge of garment.
SWEEP OR BOTTOM OPENING CIRCUMFERENCE:
Straight or Top of Slits: Measure straight across at bottom opening or top of slits
or vent (refer to spec) from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
Along edge: Measure along bottom edge from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
Straight
Shirttail or Shaped Hem
At Top of Slits
Along Edge
Vendor Handbook
B-22
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
PANT AND SHORTS
FRONT RISE:
Straighten garment so front rise is lying flat. With tape measure standing on edge,
measure along curve of front rise seam from crotch point to waist seam, waist stitching,
or waist top edge (refer to spec).
BACK RISE:
Straighten garment so back rise is lying flat. With tape measure standing on edge,
measure along curve of back rise seam from crotch point to waist seam,
waist stitching, or waist top edge (refer to spec).
Vendor Handbook
B-23
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
PANT AND SHORTS (CON’T)
MEASURING FOUNDATION
Uncreased Leg – Lay one leg flat with front facing up.
Creased Leg – Lay one leg flat folded at natural crease of front and back leg.
THIGH WIDTH:
Measure at 1" down from crotch, perpendicular to grainline, from edge to edge of garment.
THIGH CIRCUMFERENCE:
Measure at 1" down from crotch, perpendicular to grainline, from edge to edge of garment. Double the
measurement.
KNEE WIDTH:
Measure at X" down (refer to spec) from crotch, perpendicular to grainline,
from edge to edge of garment.
KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE:
Measure at X" down (refer to spec) from crotch, perpendicular to grainline,
from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
LEG OPENING WIDTH:
Measure along bottom opening from edge to edge of garment.
LEG OPENING CIRCUMFERENCE:
Measure along bottom opening from edge to edge of garment. Double the measurement.
Uncreased
Grainline
1”
Creased
1”
Thigh
Thigh
X”
X”
Knee
Knee
Leg Opening
Leg Opening
Vendor Handbook
B-24
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
PANT AND SHORTS (CON’T)
INSEAM LENGTH:
Measure along inseam from rise seam to bottom edge of garment.
Creased
Uncreased
OUTSEAM LENGTH:
Measure along sideseam from waist seam, waist stitching,
or waist top edge (refer to spec) to bottom edge of garment.
Vendor Handbook
B-25
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
COLLARS
COLLAR HEIGHT:
Measure at Center Back from collar seam to collar top edge.
COLLAR STAND HEIGHT:
Measure at Center Back from neck seam to collar stand seam.
COLLAR POINT:
Measure at front edge of collar from neck seam to point.
For rounded collar shapes: Extend an imaginary line along collar
front edge and collar outer edge; measure to imaginary point.
Vendor Handbook
B-26
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
COLLARS (CON’T.)
COLLAR POINT SPREAD:
With collar fully buttoned, measure the space at front from collar point to collar point.
For rounded collar shapes: Extend an imaginary line along collar front edge and collar outer edge;
measure from imaginary point to imaginary point.
LAPEL POINT:
Measure from collar seam to lapel point.
For rounded lapel shapes: Extend an imaginary line along
neck seam and lapel outer edge; measure to imaginary point.
COLLAR WIDTH AT TOP EDGE:
Align collar top edge. Measure along opening from edge to edge.
Vendor Handbook
B-27
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
YOKES
FRONT YOKE HEIGHT FROM HPS:
Measure height at front from HPS (seam or edge) to yoke seam.
BACK YOKE HEIGHT FROM CB NECK:
Measure height from Center Back neck (seam or edge) to yoke seam.
Vendor Handbook
B-28
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
POCKETS
POCKET OPENING LENGTH:
Measure along opening from end to end.
POCKET OR POCKET FLAP WIDTH:
Measure straight across from side edge to side edge of pocket (or pocket flap).
Measure as specified: at top, bottom, center, etc.
At Top
At Center
At Bottom
POCKET OR POCKET FLAP HEIGHT:
Measure straight from top edge to bottom edge of pocket (or pocket flap).
Measure as specified: at side, center, longest point, etc.
At Center
At Side
To Longest Point
Vendor Handbook
B-29
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
POCKETS (CON’T)
POCKET BAG WIDTH:
Measure pocket bag width at widest point from seam to seam or fold.
Do not include seam allowance.
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Pocket Opening
SSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SS
SS
SS
SS
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSS
S
S
SS
SSS
S
S
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SS S
SSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SS
Pocket Opening
SS
Waist Seam
Waist Seam
Waist Seam
SSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSS
SS
POCKET BAG HEIGHT:
Bag height establishes usable depth. Measure pocket bag height at longest point from top
or opening (depending on styling) to bottom seam or fold. Do not include seam allowance.
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Pocket Opening
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSS
S
SSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSS
SS
Vendor Handbook
B-30
Spring, 2016
SS
S
SS
S
SS
S
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SS S
SSSS
SSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SS
Pocket Opening
SS
SS
Waist Seam
Waist Seam
Waist Seam
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSS
S
SECTION B
How To Measure
POCKETS (CON’T)
POCKET OR POCKET FLAP PLACEMENT FROM HPS:
Measure straight down from HPS (seam or edge), parallel to CF,
to top edge of pocket or pocket flap.
SIDE SEAM POCKET OR LOOP PLACEMENT FROM HPS:
Connect Imaginary Line from top of pocket or loop towards CF, perpendicular to CF.
Measure straight down from HPS, parallel to CF, to imaginary line.
X”
Pocket
X”
X”
Loop
Pocket
POCKET PLACEMENT FROM CF:
Measure pocket position from Center Front to edge of pocket.
POCKET PLACEMENT FROM BOTTOM HEM:
Measure pocket position from bottom edge of pocket to bottom edge of garment.
From Center Front
Vendor Handbook
From Bottom Hem/Edge
B-31
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
BELTS
BELT, SASH, OR DRAWSTRING LENGTH:
Measure belt, sash, or drawstring length from end to end.
For belt or sash with shaped ends: Measure to longest point.
For belt with buckle: Measure from inside edge of buckle to center hole or eyelet.
BELT, SASH, OR DRAWSTRING WIDTH:
Measure belt, sash, or drawstring width from edge to edge.
BELT LOOP LENGTH:
Measure at center from top edge to bottom edge or fold.
BELT LOOP WIDTH:
Measure across from edge to edge.
Width
Length
Vendor Handbook
B-32
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
HOODS
HOOD HEIGHT:
Along Front Edge: Align front edges and neck seams of hood. Lay flat.
Measure along front edge of hood from neck seam to fold.
At Center: Align front edges and neck seams of hood. Lay flat. Measure at center of
hood from neck seam to fold. (Center of hood should be approximately at HPS position)
Along Front Edge
At Center
HOOD WIDTH:
At X" From Top Edge: Align front edges and neck seams of hood. Lay flat. Mark position
X" down from top edge. Measure across at marked position from front edge to center back.
At Widest Point: Align front edges and neck seams of hood. Lay flat.
Measure across at widest point from front edge to center back.
Center Panel Width at Widest Point: Measure across panel at widest point from seam to seam.
At X” from Top Edge
At Widest Point
Center Panel Width
At Widest Point
X”
Vendor Handbook
B-33
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
OTHER
HEM HEIGHT:
OUTSIDE
SSSSSSSSSSSSS
SSSSSSSSSSSSS
Measure height from top of finished hem to bottom edge of garment.
INSIDE (BLIND HEM)
SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
CASING HEIGHT:
HEM
HEM
BOTTOM EDGE
BOTTOM EDGE
(ie. Drawstring-Drawcord Casing)
Measure height from top to bottom. Casing may be created by a stitch, seam, or folded edge.
Casings may be hems or within the garment, such as the waistline.
SHIRTTAIL HEIGHT:
Extend an imaginary line from SS/hem to SS/hem. Measure at CF or CB from imaginary
line to bottom edge of garment.
Vendor Handbook
B-34
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
OTHER (CON’T)
SLIT HEIGHT OR LENGTH:
Measure along opening from top of opening to bottom edge of garment.
(Slits or Vents can be located in multiple locations such as Sideseams, Center Back, Sleeves, Etc.)
VENT HEIGHT:
Measure height along opening from top of vent to bottom edge.
(Slits or Vents can be located in multiple locations such as Sideseams, Center Back, Sleeves, Etc.)
PLACKET HEIGHT:
Measure height along opening from top of placket to edge or seam.
(Plackets can be located in multiple locations such as Necklines, Sideseams, Center Back, Sleeves, Etc.)
Vendor Handbook
B-35
Spring, 2016
SECTION B
How To Measure
DARTS
BUST DART LENGTH:
Measure along dart from sideseam to point.
FRONT OR BACK WAIST DART LENGTH (TOPS, JACKETS, OR DRESSES):
Measure along front or back dart from seam, edge, or point to point.
FRONT OR BACK WAIST DART LENGTH (BOTTOMS):
Measure along front or back dart from seam or edge to point.
FRONT OR BACK WAIST DARTS OR SEAMS APART AT WAIST POSITION:
Darts apart: Measure straight across at waist position from dart to dart.
Seams apart: Measure straight across at waist position from seam to seam.
FRONT WAIST DARTS OR SEAMS FROM CF AT WAIST POSITION:
Measure straight across at front waist position from CF to dart or seam.
Bust Dart
Length
Darts
Apart
Dart
Length
Dart from CF
Vendor Handbook
B-36
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
TESTING STANDARDS
SECTION C
Fabric and Yarn Selection & Testing Standards
INTRODUCTION
Appleseed’s and the Tog Shop strive to consistently bring high quality products to our customers. Paying attention to details from the yarn and fabric development to garment production helps to ensure that we are meeting brand expectations. We value our partnership with
all of our vendor suppliers, whether they provide Direct Import, Private Label, or Branded
merchandise.
All vendors and manufacturers will be held responsible for delivering quality merchandise,
meeting all product specifications, all applicable laws, and regulatory requirements. This
includes adhering to the labeling laws (fiber content, country of origin, care instructions and
trade marks) set forth by the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, mandated by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). Federal laws also require 100% compliance to the Consumer
Product Safety Improvement Act, which mandate a General Certificate of Conformity be submitted for all products.
Intertek Testing Services has been designated the official testing lab for Appleseed’s and Tog
Shop. It is important that our vendors establish direct relationships with Intertek. We have
refined our lab testing requirements and protocols to simplify this process as much as possible. We have also negotiated very competitive rates and packages. Please note all lab testing
costs and fees are the responsibility of the vendors and invoices will be sent directly.
Details of our performance testing requirements are included in this section of the manual.
Please feel free to contact our Testing Manager at [email protected] with
any questions or concerns regarding the information in this section.
A MESSAGE FROM OUR DESIGNATED LAB
Intertek is the accredited world leader in the testing, inspection and certification of consumer
goods. We work with more than one-third of all global retailers' supply chains. Intertek
stays abreast of the ever increasing consumer demand for high quality, providing regulatory
testing (including the new CPSIA regulations) to minimize risk and protect the interests of
both manufacturers and consumers. Intertek staff has unparalleled knowledge and expertise
on all global regulations, providing innovative services.
As products are increasingly sourced from developing countries, Intertek services are provided near manufacturing sites and customers' buying offices, facilitating customers' quick
response to ever changing regulations, as well as global industry standards.
We have been a testing partner for Orchard Brands for over two years and Appleseed’s since
March 2011 and we have helped to ensure the safety and quality of their products. As a valued partner of Appleseed’s, we would like to assist you in achieving regulatory compliance
and meeting the standards set by the Appleseed’s QA team.
For further information, please contact your local Intertek lab, which can be found on the
Intertek lab contact list. We look forward to serving you.
Vendor Handbook
C-1
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
FOR NEW VENDORS
VENDOR CONFIRMATION FORM
Please read and sign this acknowledgment.
Please sign and email to: [email protected]
I acknowledge receipt of the
"Testing Standards"
===============================================================
I have read and understand the policies and procedures set forth,
and I agree to comply with them.
_____________________________________
Company Name (Type or Print)
_____________________________________
Company Officer Name (Type or Print)
_____________________________________
Title
_____________________________________
_____________________________________
Company Officer SignatureDate
Thank you for your cooperation.
Vendor Handbook
C-2
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
FABRIC TESTING PROCEDURES
ALL new fabrics must be submitted for Fabric Testing. Re-list fabrics are required to be tested annually.
Testing begins with Spring Season, and tests are valid for one full year. Test results are kept on file for all
fabrics.
Bulk fabric may not ship to the factory until the Fabric Testing Manager
has approved the Fabric Test results.
1. Designated Mills or sewing factories send bulk fabric yardage to Intertek (ITS) for fabric testing.
• A minimum of two (2) square yards must be submitted for Full Testing
• A minimum of one (1) square yard must be submitted for additional colorways
• Visually unsatisfactory samples (stained, torn, damaged) will not be accepted for testing.
2. The Agent/Mill requests appropriate testing and indicates care instructions to ITS via the Test Request
Form (following pages detail our Protocols as well as pricing for fabric, garment and accessory tests).
• The darkest color in the fabric program must be submitted for Full Testing, to verify that the fabric
conforms to all Physical Performance Tests. This includes fabric weight, fiber composition, yarn
size, stitch count, dimensional stability to laundry, after wash appearance, flammability, pilling,
colorfastness to crocking, laundry, light, and non-chlorine bleach.
• ALL additional colors are required for Additional Colorway Testing, which includes dimensional
stability to laundry, colorfastness to crocking, laundry, light, and non-chlorine bleach.
• The Testing Manager may request additional tests for fabrics with specific manufacturing or
performance properties such as water resistance for rainwear, or colorfastness to chlorine for swimwear.
• If any variable in the fabric has changed, i.e. new yarn supplier, different weaving or knitting Mill,
different dye house, etc. the fabric would need to be tested to confirm that this change did not
change the characteristics of the fabric.
• Fabric test will “cover” all styles within the fabric program. Please be sure to include all styles on
the Test Request Form.
3. Intertek Testing Labs will forward the results of the lab tests directly to the Testing Manager at
[email protected] and all other contacts as indicated on the Test Request Form.
4. The Testing Manager reviews the lab test report for conformance to standards and care instructions.
If there are any failures to meet standards or other areas of concern, the Testing Manager will work
with Sourcing & Buyer to resolve.
5. Discrepancies between lab test results and the FDF are communicated to the Vendor, Sourcing & Buyer.
Sourcing must approve any discrepancies and advise whether a new FDF is required. Discrepancies in
weight, fiber composition, cuttable width, and care instructions may result in fabric cost adjustments.
6. The Testing Manager will either approve the lab test result or advise what action is required if the test is
not approved. Suggested resolution(s) will be communicated to the Agent/Mill. In the event of a
Failed test, a re-test may be requested. The Testing Manager may also opt to accept the failure,
if within reasonable tolerance.
7. The Testing Manager sends comments/approvals to the Designated Mill, Agent and Sourcing.
Approved fiber content & care will be recommended.
Final care label approval will not be provided until a passing Garment test.
Please note that these instructions may be different than tested.
Vendor Handbook
C-3
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
FABRIC INSPECTION PROTOCOL
All Mills producing fabric for Appleseed’s/TOG product, whether Designated Mills or factory selected Mills,
are required to perform a Fabric Quality Inspection on all fabrics. The purpose of a Fabric inspection is
to confirm the quality and acceptability of the fabric for garment production. This inspection should take
place at the Mill prior to shipping.
All Mills
producing
Appleseed’s/TOG
product,
Designated
Mills
selected
Mills, are of
1.
When
finishedfabric
fabricfor
available in the final
statewhether
that will
be shipped
to or
thefactory
factory,
a confirmation
All Mills
producing
fabric
forisAppleseed’s/TOG
product,
whether
Designated
Mills
or
factory
selected
Mills, are
required
to perform
a Fabric
Quality
Inspection
on all fabrics.
The purpose
of a Fabric
inspection
is to to
determine
physical
properties
should
begin.
The confirmation
process
will compare
production
goods
approved
required
to perform
a Fabric
Quality
Inspection
on all fabrics.
The purpose
of a Fabric
inspection
is to determine
the quality and acceptability of fabric for garment production. This inspection should take place at the Mill prior to
the Bulk
qualityFabric
and acceptability
of fabric
for
garment
production.
This
inspection
should take place at the Mill prior to
swatches
(color
and
fabric
standard)
and
to
the
FDF
sheet.
shipping.
shipping.
• General Appearance
1. When finished
fabricmatch
is available
the final state that will be shipped to the factory, a confirmation of physical
• Color
to thein
1. When finished
fabric is available
instandard
the final state that will be shipped to the factory, a confirmation of physical
properties
confirmation process will compare production goods to approved Bulk Fabric
• should
Handbegin.
Feel The
properties
should
begin.
The confirmation process will compare production goods to approved Bulk Fabric
swatches (color and fabric standard) and to the FDF sheet.
swatches•(color
and width
fabric standard) and to the FDF sheet.
Fabric
•• General
Appearance
Fabric weight
• General
Appearance
• Color match to the standard
•• Color
match
to the standard
Thread
Count
• Hand Feel
2.
• Hand Feel
• Fabric width
• Fabric width
• FabricAweight
Wash Shrinkage.
linear yard of fabric laundered as per the care instructions on the most recent
• Fabric weight
•
Thread
Count
approved• labThread
test. Shrinkage
results over time will confirm the degree of variation in fabric construction
Count
handling.
2. or
Wash
Shrinkage. A linear yard of fabric laundered as per the care instructions on the most recent approved
2. Wash Shrinkage. A linear yard of fabric laundered as per the care instructions on the most recent approved
lab test. Shrinkage results over time will confirm the degree of variation in fabric construction or handling.
lab test. Shrinkage results over time will confirm the degree of variation in fabric construction or handling.
3. Visual inspection. We require that the fabric Mill conduct an inspection on each lot of fabric produced.
3. Fabric
Visual inspection.
Milllevel
conduct
an fabric.
inspection
on each
lot of fabric
produced.
Fabric
inspection isWe
a require
measurethat
of the
the fabric
quality
of the
Orchard
Brands
requires
that fabric
be
3. Visual inspection.
We
require
that
the
fabric
Mill conduct
an inspection
on each
lot of fabric
produced.
Fabric
inspection is a measure of the quality level of the fabric. Orchard Brands requires that fabric be inspected
inspection
is
a
measure
of
the
quality
level
of
the
fabric.
Orchard
Brands
requires
that
fabric
be
inspected
inspected
according
to
an
Industry
Standard
4
point
system,
detailed
below.
according to an Industry Standard 4 point system, detailed below.
according to an Industry Standard 4 point system, detailed below.
FABRIC SAMPLING PLANFABRIC
FABRIC SAMPLING
SAMPLING PLAN
PLAN
The
following sampling plan lists the minimum quantity of fabric for each color, print design, or pattern to
The following sampling plan lists the minimum quantity of fabric for each color, print design, or pattern to be
The
following All
samplingare
plan lists
the minimum
quantity of fabric for each color, print design, or pattern to be
be
inspected.
be selected
at random.
inspected.
All rollsrolls
are to betoselected
at random.
inspected. All rolls are to be selected at random.
Fab ric L ot Siz e ( Yd s.)
Yar ds I ns p ect ed
Fab ric L ot Siz e ( Yd s.)
Yar ds I ns p ect ed
0-2,500
500 (entire lot if <500)
0-2,500
500 (entire lot if <500)
2,501-5,000
251-500
2,501-5,000
251-500
5,001-20,000
400-1,600
5,001-20,000
400-1,600
20,001 and up
1,200 and up
20,001 and up
1,200 and up
THE 4 POINT SYSTEM
Per ce nt of Tot al
Per ce nt of Tot al
20%
20%
10%
10%
8%
8%
6%
6%
The
The 4
4 POINT
POINT SYSTEM
SYSTEM
During inspection,
depending
on the
sizesize
and significance
of theofdefect.
During
inspection,defects
defectsare
areassigned
assignedpenalty
penaltypoints
points
depending
on the
significance
the defect.
During inspection,
defects
are
assigned
penalty
points
depending
on the
size and and
significance
of the defect.
Points are assigned according to the following Criteria:
Points
to the
thefollowing
following
Criteria:
Points are
are assigned
assigned according
according to
Criteria:
Assig n ed Poi nts
Assig n ed Poi nts
1
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
o
Size of D ef ects
Size of D ef ects
< 3”
< 3”
>3” but <6”
>3” but <6”
> 6” but < 9”
> 6” but < 9”
> 9"
> 9"
No more than 4 points will be assigned to any single defect.
o more
No more
than
4 points
willbe
beassigned
assigned toany
any single
single defect.
defect.
o No
than
4 points
will
o No linear
yard
can contain
more than 4topoints.
o
No
linear
yard
can
contain
more
than
4
points.
o No
yard can
contain
more
points.
o linear
A continuous
running
defect
(i.ethan
roll to4 roll
shading, irregular width, barre, bowing or skewing greater than
o A continuous running defect (i.e roll to roll shading, irregular width, barre, bowing or skewing greater than
3%, etc.) will
be assigned
4(i.e
points
for
each
yard.
o A continuous
running
defect
roll
to
roll
irregular width, barre, bowing or skewing greater
3%, etc.) will be assigned 4 points for eachshading,
yard.
o Any
full
width
defect
will be assigned
4for
points.
than
3%,
etc.)
will
be
assigned
4
points
each
yard.
o Any full width defect will be assigned 4 points.
o Obvious or severe defects will be assigned 4 points for each yard in which they occur regardless of size.
o Any
full width
defect will
be assigned
4 points.
o Obvious
or severe
defects
will be assigned
4 points for each yard in which they occur regardless of size.
o Obvious or severe defects will be assigned
4
points
for each yard in which they occur regardless of size.
POINT CALCULATION
POINT CALCULATION
Vendor Handbook
C-4
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
POINT CALCULATION
For an Individual Roll:
Points
100 Square
For an per
Individual
Roll: Yards =
Points per 100 Square Yards =
For
a Shipment:
For a Shipment:
Total Points for the roll x 3600
Inspected
Yardsfor
x Cuttable
Fabric Width (inches)
Total Points
the roll x 3600
Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (inches)
Total Shipment Points per 100 Square Yards =
Total Shipment Points per 100 Square Yards =
Average points per Linear yd. x 3600
Average points per Linear yd. x 3600
ACCEPTABLE
POINTS BY FABRIC TYPE
ACCEPTABLE POINTS
BY FABRIC TYPE
DESCRIPTION
Dress Shirting
Worsted Woolens
Tailored Suiting
Open End Spun Denim
All Synthetics
Filament Rayons
Twill Fabrics
Poplin, Oxford, Gingham Shirting
Ring Spun Denim
Canvas
Corduroy/ Velvet
Flannel
Woven's with Spandex/ Elastane
Seersucker/ Dobby/ Jacquard
Chambray/ Indigo Dyed Yarns
All Silk Fabrics
Basic Knits
Linen
Linen Blends
Rayon Blends
Madras
Muslin
POINTS ALLOWED
PER INDIVIDUAL ROLL
POINTS ALLOWED
PER SHIPMENT
20 points / 100 Sq. Yards
15 Points / 100 Sq. Yards
20 points / Sq. Yards
4. If the fabric fails the inspection, the factory contacts the Mill and the Agent. The Mill will send their QC
representative
inspect
fabric immediately.
In extreme
cases,
thirdand
partythe
inspection
will be
4. If
the fabric to
fails
the the
inspection,
the factory
contacts
the aMill
Agent. service
The Mill
employed and paid for by the Mill. Results of third party fabric inspections are communicated to Sourcing and
will
send their QC representative to inspect the fabric immediately. In extreme cases, a
Product Development by the Agent.
third party inspection service will be employed and paid for by the Mill. Results of third
• Sourcing may require that the Mill replace fabrics that do not meet inspection standards at the
party fabric
inspections
are communicated to Sourcing by the Agent.
factory,
at their expense.
•
Fabric problems or defects that cause delivery delays and/or increased cost in garment
• Sourcing may
require
replace
fabrics
production
maythat
resultthe
in aMill
chargeback
to the
Mill. that do not meet
inspection standards at the factory, at their expense.
• Fabric problems or defects that cause delivery delays and/or increased cost in
garment production may result in a chargeback to the Mill.
Vendor Handbook
C-5
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
5. Designated Mills send passing Fabric Quality Inspection Reports to the Agent. Agent
communicates approval date to Sourcing. Each inspection report will contain the following information:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Mill Name
Date of inspection
Fabric P.O. Number
Total number of rolls and total yardage in the order
Roll number and length (of inspected rolls)
Cuttable width for each roll inspected (measured at start, middle, and end of the roll)
Number of defect points for each roll
Defects per 100 square yards
Defects per shipment
Comments by inspector
6. The Agent has the primary responsibility to ensure that no fabric shipment is delayed.
This includes confirming that both the Mill and the factory agree on payment terms.
If the Agent cannot resolve delays, Sourcing and the Inventory Control Buyer must be
contacted with details of the delay. All parties communicate to reach resolution.
7. Late Fabric Delivery: Sourcing Manager will review any delays in fabric delivery and
determine who is responsible. If garment delivery is delayed, and airing of fabric or
garments is necessary, the responsible party will incur all additional costs. All parties
should work to find the most reasonable solution within the time-constraints.
8. Fabric is shipped to the factory. Agent communicates x-Mill date to Sourcing.
The factory will review the following attributes and record results.
The sewing facility will provide feedback to the fabric Mill for every shipment.
•
•
•
•
•
Review the inspection report
Confirm color match
Confirm Hand Feel
Confirm fabric weight (punch test) and width
Confirm general fabric appearance
Once fabric is confirmed and approved, it will be spread and allowed to relax before cutting.
The sewing facility will immediately contact the fabric Mill if any fabric related problems
occur.
Vendor Handbook
C-6
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
GARMENT TESTING PROCEDURES
Garment testing is required for each fabric program once per year. Testing begins in the
Spring Season, and tests are valid for one full year. Test results are kept on file for all
Appleseed’s/Tog garments.
TOP’s will not be approved until Garment Test is approved by the Testing Manager.
1. Sewing factories/Agents must send garment sample to Intertek (ITS) for fabric testing.
• The most complex style should be submitted for testing. The test will “cover” all
styles within the fabric program. Please be sure to include all Misses style numbers
on the Test Request Form.
• Two (2) garments for each style must be submitted
• Only one color needs to be tested
2. The Agent/factory requests appropriate testing and indicates care instructions to ITS via
the Test Request Form (see following pages for details of our Protocols and Pricing).
• Basic Physical Performance tests are included in our Garment Test Packages.
• The Testing Manager may request additional tests as needed.
• Buttons, snaps, zippers, decorations, linings, etc. require attachment strength testing.
• As per the CPSIA, notions and trims must conform to federal requirements and may
need additional testing, as requested.
3. Intertek Testing Labs will forward the test results directly to the Testing Manager at
[email protected] and all other contacts as indicated on the Test
Request Form.
4. The Testing Manager reviews the lab test report for conformance to standards and care
instructions. If there are any failures to meet standards or other areas of concern, the
Testing Manager will work with Sourcing Manager to resolve.
5. The Testing Manager will either approve the lab test result or advise what action is
required if the test is not approved. Suggested resolution(s) will be communicated to the
Agent. In the event of a Failed test, a re-test may be requested. The Testing Manager may
also opt to accept the failure, if within reasonable tolerance.
6. The Testing Manager sends comments/approvals to the Agent and Sourcing Manager.
Final care label approval will not be provided until a passing Garment test!!
Please note that these instructions may be different than tested.
Vendor Handbook
C-7
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Intertek Standard Test Package Pricing
(Prices in US $)
USA
Hong Kong
Asia
Bangladesh
India
Pakistan
Europe
(Italy)
(Egypt / Mauritius)
Central / South
America
1st Order
$180
$46
$42
$53 + courier charge
for subcontracted
tests
$280
$53
$53
Re-Order
$170
$43
$36
for subcontracted
tests
$250
$49
$49
1st Order
$155
$41
$17
$47
$155
$47
$47
Re-Order
$155
$41
$17
$47
$155
$47
$47
$280
$56
$56
$250
$51
$51
Test Package
Fabric
Woven**
Garment
1st Order
$180
$51
$50
for subcontracted
tests
Re-Order
$170
$43
$44
for subcontracted
tests
Fabric
Knit**
Additional Colorway
1st Order
$100
$30
$17
$34
$94
$34
$34
$100
$30
$17
$34
$94
$34
$34
1st Order
$170
$46
$48
for subcontracted
tests
$250
$53
$53
Re-Order
$150
$40
$42
for subcontracted
tests
$215
$45
$45
1st Order
$113
$33
$26
for subcontracted
tests
$170
$35
$35
Re-Order
$80
$19
$16
for subcontracted
tests
$140
$20
$20
mb
Co
Sweater**
Fabric Sweater
Panel
& Turkey
Re-Order
ine
d
Garment
Africa
Minimum Invoice (US $)
$100
$26
$5
$15
$65
$26
$26
STANDARD Service Cost / Turn-Around Time
5 Business Days
5 Business Days
5 Business Days
5 Business Days
5 Business Days
5 Business Days
5 Business Days
EXPRESS Service Cost / Turn-Around Time
50% Additional
Surcharge /
3 Business Days
40% Additional
Surcharge /
3 Business Days
40% Additional
Surcharge /
3 Business Days
40% Additional
Surcharge /
3 Business Days
40% Additional
Surcharge /
3 Business Days
40% Additional
Surcharge /
3 Business Days
40% Additional
Surcharge /
3 Business Days
SAME DAY Service Cost / Turn-Around Time
100% Additional
Surcharge /
1-2 Business Days
100% Additional
Surcharge /
1-2 Business Days
100% Additional
Surcharge /
1-2 Business Days
100% Additional
Surcharge /
1-2 Business Days
100% Additional
Surcharge /
1-2 Business Days
100% Additional
Surcharge /
1-2 Business Days
100% Additional
Surcharge /
1-2 Business Days
*Minimum Invoice Fee of $26 is for our Hong Kong and 200 RMB for Shanghai, China location. Minimum invoice fees vary by each Asia location & Turkey.
**Components (Buttons, Zippers, Snaps, etc.) present are to be tested for component testing. These tests will be charged additionally when performed.
NOTE: VAT will be applied to invoices in countries/cities where this is applicable.
August 2015
Vendor Handbook
C-8
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
RECOMMENDED SIZE OF SAMPLE FOR TESTING (Number of Garments or Inches)
Colorfastness
Fabric/Sweater Panel
15" x 15" per test, 24" x full width for complete analysis
Garment (actual laundering)
2 finished garments
Buttons
10 pieces minimum
Yarn
1 cone minimum
Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage)
Fabric
Woven: 28" x full width, Knit: 30" x full width
Garment
2 finished garments
Appearance after Dryclean/Wash
2 finished garments
Physical Test
Strength tests (e.g. tensile, tearing, bursting, seam slippage)
20" x full width per test
Fabric Construction tests (e.g. fabric width, fabric weight, yarn count)
1 yard x full width per test
Fabric performance tests (e.g. pilling, abrasion, water repellency, water resistance) 28" x 28"per test
Zipper strength (full test)
12 pieces
Composition & Other Analytical Tests
Fibre composition for fabric
Solid Color: 20" x 20", Pattern: 20" x 20" with 3 complete pattern/repeat
Garment Analysis
1 finished garment
Analytical tests (e.g. Formaldehyde content, pH value, mercerisation in cotton,
dyestuff identification)
20" x 20" per test
Flammability Only
CFR part 1610
1 yard minimum
Feather & Down
58g minimum
Thermal
25" x 25" minimum
Other
Care Label Recommendation
Fabric: 2 yards x full width, minimum.
Garment: 2 finished garments + accessories
Print/strip/pattern/logo garment: 3 pieces (At least 3-4 pieces of logo are required)
Note: Additional Samples or Sample Sizes may be requested.
Vendor Handbook
C-9
Spring, 2016
TEST REQUEST FORM – APPAREL & HOME TEXTILE
Regular
Express* (surcharge)
Shuttle* (surcharge)
(3 working days)
(Next working day)
"Treated as Regular
Service if blank"
*Available for certain tests only.
All submissions are to be billed to the Vendor / Submitter unless otherwise noted.
Same Day* (surcharge)
SERVICE REQUIRED
Brand :
(8 working hours)
Form No.
Type of Test:
Appleseed’s
Bedford Fair
Blair
Draper’s & Damon’s
Gold Violin
Haband
LinenSource
Monterey Bay
Norm Thompson
Old Pueblo Traders
Sahalie
Solutions
The Tog Shop
Willow Ridge
WinterSilks
Other
Initial
Re-Test
First Order
Order
Type of Buy:
OBGS
Re-
Direct Import
Domestic Supplier
Report no.
Buyer:
Vendor:
Address:
Merchandise contact (s) and email (s):
Contact:
Email:
Send Test Results:
Yes
No
Contact:
Email:
Send Test Results:
Yes
No
Contact:
Email:
Send Test Results:
Yes
No
Email:
Send Test Results:
Yes
No
Contact:
< Testing Manager >
Sample Information (Please print or type)
Sample Description:
PO Number (s) :
Style Number (s):
Color Name (s):
Fabric Mill:
Garment Factory:
Fabric Description :
Fabric Type:
Fiber Content:
Country Of Origin:
Fabric Weight:
2
2
(oz/yd or g/ m )
Thread Count : Knit – WPI /
CPI:
Thread Count: Woven - EPI /
PPI:
Before Wash
After Wash
Knit
Woven
Wash / Dye / Print /
Finish Type:
Yarn Size:
Other:
Care Instructions (REQUIRED)
Please provide wash care instructions. (Washing Method; cycle, temperature, bleaching, drying, ironing, etc.)
Special Test Instructions/Comments (if applicable)
Performance Claims (if any)
Flame Retardant
UV Protection
Stain Release
Stain Repellent
Water Resistant
Waterproof/Repellent
Wicking
Rainwear Duty
Quick Dry/Dry Speed
Wrinkle Resistant
REQUESTED TESTS
FABRIC TEST PACKAGES
GARMENT TEST PACKAGES
Knit Full Fabric
Knit Garment
Woven Full Fabric
Woven Garment
Sweater Test, Full Fabric Panel or Combo (Panel + Sweater)
Additional Colorway
Soft Home/ Accessories
Other:
We request for the above tests and agree that all testing will be carried out as indicated on this Test Form. We acknowledge that as the applicant, we are responsible
for payment of the invoice under the terms and conditions of the testing lab.
Authorized Signature ______________________________________________________ Date ____________________________________________________
TEST REQUEST FORM – ACCESSORIES & SOFT HOME
SERVICE REQUIRED
Regular
Express* (surcharge)
Shuttle*(surcharge)
"Treated as Regular
(3 working days)
(Next working day)
Service if blank"
*Available for certain tests only
All submissions are to be billed to the Vendor / Submitter unless otherwise noted.
Brand :
Appleseed’s
Gold Violin
Bedford Fair
Haband
Blair
LinenSource
Draper’s & Damon’s
Monterey Bay
Norm Thompson
Old Pueblo Traders
Sahalie
Solutions
The Tog Shop
Willow Ridge
WinterSilks
Same Day*(surcharge)
(8 working hours)
Form No.
Type of Buy:
Type of Test:
Initial
OBGS
Re-Test
First Order
Report no.
Direct Import
Re-Order
Domestic Supplier
Buyer:
Vendor:
Address:
Merchandise contact (s) and email (s):
Contact:
Email:
Send Test Results:
Yes
No
Contact:
Email:
Send Test Results:
Yes
No
Email:
Send Test Results:
Yes
No
Contact:
< Testing Manager >
Sample Information (Please print or type)
Sample Description:
PO Number (s) :
Style Number (s):
Color Name (s):
Fabric Mill:
Garment Factory:
Fabric Description :
Fabric Type:
Fiber Content:
Country Of Origin:
Fabric Weight:
2
2
(oz/yd or g/ m )
Before Wash
After Wash
Knit
Woven
Yes
No
Wash / Dye / Print /
Finish Type:
Thread Count : Knit – WPI / CPI:
Yarn Size:
Thread Count: Woven - EPI / PPI:
Re-order:
Care Instructions (REQUIRED)
Please provide wash care instructions. (Washing Method; cycle, temperature, bleaching, drying, ironing, etc.)
Special Test Instructions/Comments (if applicable)
Performance Claims (if any)
Flame Retardant
UV Protection
Stain Release
Stain Repellent
Water Resistant
Waterproof/Repellent
Wicking
Rainwear Duty
Quick Dry/Dry Speed
Wrinkle Resistant
REQUESTED TESTS
Jewelry
Shoes & Slippers
Shawls, Headwear, Gloves
Purses, Handbags, Luggage
Socks & Hosiery
Neckties
Towels
Rugs & Bathmats
Curtains, Drapes, Slipcovers
Heated Blankets
Sleeping Bags
Mattress Pads
Cushions, Pillows, Comforters
Blankets, Sheets, Pillowcases
Soft Home
Belts & Suspenders
Tablecloths, Napkins, Placemats
Pet Beds & Pillows
Other ____________________
Other:
We request for the above tests and agree that all testing will be carried out as indicated on this Test Form. We acknowledge that as the applicant, we are responsible for
payment of the invoice under the terms and conditions of the testing lab.
Authorized Signature ______________________________________________________ Date ____________________________________________________
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated March 2016
PREMIUM BRANDS KNIT FABRIC TEST PACKAGE
Description
Method
Guidance
Fiber Composition
AATCC 20/20A
Test one color per fabrication.
Fabric Weight
ASTM D3776 / D3887
Report mm for silk fabric.
+/-5% (Lab reports + or - % after comparing the declared).
Thread / Stitch Count
ASTM D3887
Dimensional Stability to Washing /
Commercial Dry Cleaning
AATCC 135 / AATCC 158
Appearance After Washing / Commercial
Dry Cleaning
Subjective Assessment
Colorfastness to Washing and/or
Use "Tide" detergent to wash. Three (3) washes for
machine and hand wash.
One (1) wash for dry cleaning.
For "Dimensional Stability & Appearance", the lab
must measure and observe the testing After 1 & 3
Washes.
The lab should only report findings after 1 & 3
Washes if the sample fails After 3 Washes.
If a sample passes both After 1 & After 3 Washes,
the lab must only report the After 3 Washes results.
Leather is to be "Professionally Dry Cleaned".
Test all colors except pastels and white.
Requirement
No tolerance for single fiber; +/-3% for blends.
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
Dry Cleaning
+/-5%
+/-5%
+/-2%
Commercial Acceptability. Rating of 4.0.
Report color change grade, skewing, and pilling appearance according to ASTM D
3512 template and all poor performance observations.
For failed color change grade, report color change with UV depressor, but comment
according to without depressor.
Color Change
4.0
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
4.0
4.0
Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
Colorfastness to Crocking
AATCC 8
4.0
Light//Medium Colors
Dark Colors
Dry Crocking
4.0
3.0
Wet Crocking
3.0
2.5
Pilling Resistance
ASTM D3512
4.0
Flammability
US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610
Lab should select appropriate flammability test for
the product according to the latest or updated
regulation or law.
Class 1 Flammability rating or Exemption Disclosure.
PREMIUM BRANDS KNIT FABRIC ADDITIONAL COLORWAY TEST PACKAGE
machine and hand wash. One (1) wash for dry
cleaning.
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
Dry Cleaning
+/-5%
+/-5%
+/-2%
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
4.0
4.0
Color Change
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
Flammability
AATCC 8
4.0
4.0
Dark Colors
Dry Crocking
4.0
3.0
Wet Crocking
3.0
2.5
regulation or law.
PREMIUM BRANDS KNIT GARMENT TEST PACKAGE
Dry Cleaning
Seam Bursting Strength
Washes.
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
Dry Cleaning
+/-5%
+/-5%
+/-2%
Color Change
4.0
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
4.0
Minimum 45 pounds.
ASTM D3786
4/5/16
Vendor Handbook
C-12
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated March 2016
PREMIUM BRANDS SWEATER TEST, FULL FABRIC PANEL or SWEATER COMBO TEST PACKAGE (Panel + Sweater)
Description
Method
Guidance
Fiber Composition
AATCC 20/20A
Yarn Count
ASTM D1059
+/-5% (Lab shows also + or - % after comparing the declared.)
Dry Cleaning
Washes.
Requirement
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
Dry Cleaning
+/-5%
+/-5%
+/-2%
Color Change
4.0
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
4.0
4.0
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
AATCC 8
4.0
Dark Colors
Dry Crocking
4.0
3.0
Wet Crocking
3.0
2.5
Pilling Resistance
ASTM D3512
4.0
Flammability
regulation or law.
PREMIUM BRANDS SWEATER PANEL - ADDITIONAL COLORWAY TEST PACKAGE
cleaning.
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
+/-5%
+/-5%
4.0
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
4.0
4.0
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
Flammability
AATCC 8
regulation or law.
+/-2%
Color Change
Dry Cleaning
4.0
Dark Colors
Dry Crocking
4.0
3.0
Wet Crocking
3.0
2.5
4/5/16
Vendor Handbook
C-13
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated March 2016
PREMIUM BRANDS WOVEN FABRIC TEST PACKAGE
Description
Method
Guidance
Fiber Composition
AATCC 20/20A
Fabric Weight
ASTM D3776
Report mm for silk fabric.
Thread / Stitch Count
ASTM D3775
Dry Cleaning
Washes.
Requirement
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
Dry Cleaning
+/-3%
+/-3%
+/-2%
Color Change
4.0
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
4.0
4.0
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
Flammability
AATCC 8
4.0
Dark Colors
Dry Crocking
4.0
3.0
Wet Crocking
3.0
2.5
regulation or law.
PREMIUM BRANDS WOVEN FABRIC ADDITIONAL COLORWAY TEST PACKAGE
cleaning.
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
Dry Cleaning
+/-3%
+/-3%
+/-2%
Color Change
4.0
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
4.0
4.0
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
AATCC TS-001
All colors.
Color Change
Flammability
AATCC 8
4.0
Dark Colors
Dry Crocking
4.0
3.0
Wet Crocking
3.0
2.5
regulation or law.
PREMIUM BRANDS WOVEN GARMENT TEST PACKAGE
Dry Cleaning
Washes.
Machine Washes
Hand Washes
Dry Cleaning
+/-3%
+/-3%
+/-2%
Color Change
4.0
Color Staining
4.0
Self Staining
Test linings when applicable.
Seam Strength
ASTM D1683
4.0
Fabric > 3 oz/sq yd
Fabric < 3 oz/sq yd
Seam Slippage
25 lbs
20 lbs
15 lbs min. at 1/4"
Functional
Non-Functional
15 lbs.
10 lbs.
Pocket Strength.
Vendor Handbook
4/5/16
C-14
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated January 2014
ADDITIONAL TESTS (Available Upon Request)
Style
Tensile Strength
ASTM D5034
Woven only.
Acceptance Level
Woven tops, dresses, lounge wear, lining on jackets/coats, other light weight wovens
25 lbs. Min.
Woven bottoms, denim less than 8.5 oz.
35 lbs. Min.
Denim over 8.5 oz., shell fabric on jackets/coats
Criteria
Wrinkle Resistance /
Durable Press
AATCC 124 / 143
For woven wrinkle-free garments if
claimed. Test 1 out of 3 colors for
submitted fabrics and test on all Fabric Apprearance Retention
submitted garments. Report 3rd
and 5th washes. Lab can skip 3rd Seam Apprearance Retention
wash result if 5th wash result is
passed.
Crease Resistant
40 lbs. Min.
Non-Permanent Press
Permanent Press
3.5
4.0
3.0
3.5
3.0
3.5
Grade
Fabrication
Snag Resistance
ASTM D5362
Abrasion Resistance
ASTM D4685
Stretch and Recovery
ASTM D2594 / D3107
For corduroy fabric only.
CVC
3.0
CVS
2.0
Face : 3.0 ; Back : 4.0
Knit - 95% Min.; Woven - 85% Min.
Pull Tab Strength (min.)
Size
10
Zipper Strength
ASTM D2061
1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 /
Lab should quote the zipper size in Brass/Nickel
the report for reference.
Alumium
20 / 25 / 30 / 40 / 60
20 / 25 / 35 / 40 /
60
Plastic/Nylon
20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / 40
CEF
/ 50
Button Attachment
ASTM F963
Snap & Fabric Strength
ASTM D4846
Eyelet Pull Strength
ASTM D1683 Modified
15 lbs @ 10 seconds
Snap only.
15 / 15 / 30 / 50
Fed. Std. 148a, Method 2
Feather and down only.
Oxygen number
Fed. Std. 148a, Method 4
Feather and down only.
Determine Twist in both
Woven & Knit Garments
AATCC 179
Water Repellency
AATCC 22
Bottom Stop Strength (min.)
1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10
1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10
10 / 15 / 15 / 30 / 30
50 / 75 / 120 / 150 / 150
7 / 10 / 10 / 20 / 30
10 / 15 / 15 / 20 / 20
50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100
7 / 10 / 10 / 15 / 20
15 / 15 / 20 / 30 / 30
50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100
8 / 10 / 15 / 15 / 20
10 / 10 / 20 / 40 / 60
50 / 50 / 100 / 150 / 200
7 / 8 / 15 / 40 / 60
Min 30 psi.
Snap and unsnap action: 2-8 lbs.; Snap strength: 15 lbs. Min.
Less than 10.0 for an oxygen cleanliness rating
+/-5%
All colors.
Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3 Launderings - 70 (ISO2)
Condition
AATCC 35
Chain Crosswise Strength
(min.)
1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10
Eyelet only. Using Tensile Testing
Minimum 15 lbs.
Machine, CRE
Composition Analysis
Water Resistence - Rain test
Top Stop Strength (min.)
All colors.
Height of Water
Time
Water Absorption
2 feet
2 minutes
Not more than 1.0 gram
Rain
Shower
Storm
Test Area
Colorfastness to
Perspiration
AATCC 15
All colors, except pastels and
white.
General Requirement
Leather (Lining only)
Color Change
Class 4.0 Min.
Class 3.5 Min.
Staining
Class 3.0 Min.
Class 3.0 Min.
Self Staining
Class 4.5 Min.
---
Color Type
Hour
Grade
Light/Med
10 hours
4.0
Dark
20 hours
4.0
Fluorescent
10 hours
4.0
Leather
All Colors
20 hours
4.0
Suede
All Colors
20 hours
3.0
All Other Garments
All Colors
20 hours
4.0
Garment/Fabric Type
Silk/swimwear
Colorfastness to Light
AATCC 16
white.
Colorfastness to Water
AATCC 107
white.
CC 4.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5
Colorfastness to Chlorinated
Pool Water
AATCC 162
white.
CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0
Colorfastness to Sea Water
AATCC 106
white.
CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5
Soil Release
AATCC 130
Oil Repellency
AATCC 118
For stain repellent.
pH Value
AATCC 81
White colors and denim.
pH 5.0 - 7.0
Formaldehyde
AATCC 112
All colors.
Max. 75 ppm
Lead Content
EPA 3050B/3051
All colors.
California Proposition 65
Applicable Section from Intertek
Protocol for CA Prop 65
All colors.
Test 1 out of 3 colors for submitted
4.0
fabrics
Original 5.0; After 3 washes 4.0
For PU, PVC or likewise coated fabrics.
Meet Federal requirements according to the end use of the fabrics.
All samples should be reviewed against the requirements of California Proposition 65 to determine if additional testing or labeling is required.
This Protocol is issued on January 2010
Vendor Handbook
C-15
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated June 2015
BELTS- Leather, Vinyl, Fabric ~ REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
CA Prop 65 (Mandatory in the state of California). Requirement/Limit: Consent Judgment of related court case based on California Proposition 65.
Description
Method
Sample Size
Requirement
Identify material only if claimed on product or packaging
Material Content
Labeling Review
LEATHER:
Verify leather label claims such as genuine leather, split leather, bonded leather, etc. Pass/fail for ‘Labeling review-‐leather’ test line under labeling section
Microscopic/
Burning/
Chemical/
FTIR (as required)
1 Sample
16 CFR Part 24
1 label
SYNTHETIC MATERIAL CLAIM SUCH AS POLYURETHANE / PVC:
Verify specific material claim such as PU, PVC by conducting FTIR analysis; Pass/fail for ‘Claim Verification’ test line under labeling section
Note: Do not conduct FTIR test for generic claims such as “Man made material”, only test if specific man made material such as Polyurethane, PVC, etc claimed on the label. Additional price will be charged to conduct FTIR test
If all or part of a product is made of non-‐leather material that appears
to be leather, the non-‐leather material must be disclosed on the retail packaging. The disclosure must be of such conspicuousness and clarity as to be noted by consumers casually inspecting the product. The disclosure must be in close proximity to the product identification.
NOTE: A material that contains ground, pulverized, shredded, reconstituted or bonded leather cannot be represented as being wholly leather. Adequate disclosure of these leather types must be present.
Fiber Content
AATCC 20 / AATCC 20A
1 Sample
Test only if claimed
Single Fibers :No tolerance
Blends :3% Tolerance
≤ 90ppm
*Lead In Surface Coating
*Lead in substrate**
Paint, coating or electroplating are not barriers to substrate being inaccessible
Nickel Release (metal w/direct skin contact) Only If Sport test positive
CPCS CH-‐E1003-‐09
1 gram
Non-‐metallic materials: CPSC-‐CH-‐E1002-‐09
Metal materials: CPSC-‐CH-‐E1001-‐09
1 gram EN12472
EN1811
Composite*** testing is allowed as follows:
• Lead Requirement = 90 ppm
• Max 2 materials
Must meet 45 ppm due to qualitative concentration
Vinyl :200 ppm
Metal:300 ppm
Leather, Plastic, PU, Faux Leather :300 ppm
• Lead Requirement = 200 ppm for Vinyl all other 300 ppm
• Max 3 materials
Must meet 66.66 ppm for vinyl and all other100 ppm due to qualitative <0.5μ g/cm2/week
Test All Accessible PVC, soft plastic, vinyl components
≤0.1% or 1000 ppm (w/w)
(DEHP, DBP or BBP for plasticized material)
*Phthalates
CPSC-‐CH-‐C1001-‐09.3
5 grams
≤0.1% or 1000 ppm
(w/w DIDP, DINP or DNOP for plasticized material)
• Phthalate Requirement = 1000 ppm
• Max 3 materials
Must meet 333.33 ppm due to qualitative concentration
**: Exclusions: Cubic zirconia, crystal, glass and rhinestones as well as all non-‐suspect materials, except leather, as defined by the CPSC In 16 CFR 1500.91 (d) & (e):
certain precious gemstones, semiprecious gemstones, pearls, wood, paper, textiles, surgical steel and precious metals.
***: If failed composite test, then lab should proceed and conduct individual component test and pass/fail based on individual component test result
Note: If trims/components used on additional colorway samples is of same material type and looks similar by visual appearance then lab should group trims used on additional colorway and test trims/components on full colorway only.
Vendor Handbook
C-16
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated June 2015
Purses, Handbags, Luggage ~ REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Description
Method
Sample Size
Requirement
Material Content
Labeling Review
Microscopic/
Burning/
Chemical/
FTIR (as required)
16 CFR Part 24
LEATHER:
1 Sample
1 label
Fiber Content
1 Sample
≤ 90ppm
Lead in Surface Coating
CPCS CH-‐E1003-‐09
1 gram
1 gram Composite*** testing is allowed as follows:
• Max 2 materials
Vinyl :200 ppm
Metal:300 ppm
• Max 3 materials
Must meet 66.66 ppm for vinyl and all other100 ppm due to qualitative concentration
≤0.1% or 1000 ppm (w/w)
*Phthalates
CPSC-‐CH-‐C1001-‐09.3
5 grams
≤0.1% or 1000 ppm
• Max 3 materials
Vendor Handbook
C-17
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated June 2015
JEWELRY ~ REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Description
Method
Sample Size
Requirement
≤ 90ppm
*Lead In Surface Coating
EPA 3050B / 3051
CPSC-‐CH-‐E1003-‐09
1 gram
• Max 2 materials
≤ 100 ppm
CPSC-‐CH-‐E1002-‐08 and / or
CPSC-‐CH-‐E1001-‐08
• Max 3 materials
*Phthalates
CPSC-‐CH-‐C1001-‐09.3
5 grams
≤ 0.1 % or 1000ppm (w/w) (DEHP, DBP or BBP for plasticized
material)
≤ 0.1 % or 1000ppm (w/w) (DIDP, DINP or DNOP for plasticized material)
• Max 3 materials
Shall not contain Cadmium in excess of 0.0075% (75ppm) of the weight of the total content
* Cadmium in Substrate
EPA 3050B / 3051
CONNECTICUT PUBLIC ACT
1 gram
Composite testing is allowed as follows: Cadmium in Substrate Requirement: < 75ppm Max. = 2 materials Must meet 37 ppm due to qualitative concentration
*Nickel Spot Test
(Qualitative)
PD CR 12471:2002
2 pieces
Skin contact metal components only -‐ Negative test results
*Release of Nickel
(Quantitative)
Applicable to metal articles in direct and prolong skin contact
Non-‐coated item
EN 1811:1998 + A1:2008
Coated item
EN 12472: 2005 and EN 1811:1998 + A1:2008
ANNEX XVII REACH
2 pcs (per style)
Only test for components that are failed for Nickel Spot Test
Annex XVII, REACH
≤ 0.5 μg /cm2/week (Non-‐body piercing article)
< 0.2 μg /cm2/week (Body piercing article)
Vendor Handbook
C-182010
This Protocol is issued on January
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated June 2015
Shoes/Slippers ~ REGULATORY COMPLIANCE
Description
Method
Sample Size
Requirement
Material Content
Labeling Review
Microscopic/
Burning/
Chemical/
FTIR (as required)
16 CFR Part 24
LEATHER:
1 Sample
1 label
Fiber Content
1 Sample
≤ 90ppm
Lead in Surface Coating
CPCS CH-‐E1003-‐09
1 gram
• Max 2 materials
Vinyl :200 ppm
Metal:300 ppm
• Max 3 materials
Must meet 66.66 ppm for vinyl and all other100 ppm due to qualitative concentration
≤0.1% or 1000 ppm (w/w)
*Phthalates
GC-‐MS / HPLC
5 grams
≤0.1% or 1000 ppm
• Max 3 materials
*Formaldehyde Spot Test
Spot Test
10 grams
Test Textile Lining Only
Shall be negative.
*Formaldehyde Content
AATCC 112
10 grams
Test Only if spot test is positive
75ppm max.
Vendor Handbook
C-19
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Updated August
2015
Testing
HOSIERY - Regulatory Compliance
Description
Method
Regulatory, Analytical & Chemical
Requirement
The sample should be reviewed against the To determine if additional testing or labeling is required. In lieu of requirements of California Proposition 65 testing, a passing test
Note: Additional cost, sample size & TAT may be required if testing to 1 or more supplemental protocol is
necessary. Please refer to the above referenced supplemental protocol(s) for additional information.
*†Lead Content in Paint and Similar
16 CFR 1303
Shall not exceed 90ppm (0.009% by weight) total lead.
Surface Coating
(Scope Widened)
Labeling
†One Time Use Products
Fair Packaging and Labelling Act
OR
All Other Products
Uniform Packaging and Labelling
Regulations
Manufacturer, packer, or distributor’s name &
Product Identification
F.P. & L. Act
(16 CFR 500)
OR
NIST Uniform Laws
and Regulations
Handbook 130
Net quantity of contents shall be expressed in
terms of weight or mass, measure, numerical
count, or combination so as to give accurate
information to facilitate consumer comparison
(U.S. and metric units).
19 CFR 134.11
Shall indicate country of origin legibly,
permanently, and in comparable size and close
proximity to any mention of country other than
country in which the article was manufactured
or produced. Must be visible at point of
purchase.
Visual
Use/care instructions that are clear and
understandable shall be provided in language
appropriate to destination countries
16 CFR 423
Must be sewn in permanently and must comply
with regulations (Care Labelling Rule)
Fiber Content
16 CFR 303 / 300
Must be visible at point of sale & must comply
with regulations (Textile Fibers Identification Act
or Wool Products Labelling Act)
Sewn in Label
FTC
Must comply with regulations
Visual
Verify presence (Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act or Wool Products Labelling Act)
AATCC 20/20A
Single Fiber: No tolerance
Blended Fiber: +/-‐ 3% tolerance
Fibers (<5%): I.D. shown as “Other Fiber” with %
Spandex (<5%): I.D. shown as %
AATCC 150
-‐5.00%
Per Dimensional
Stability to Washing
Satisfactory
†Country of Origin Marking
Use Labelling
Care Instruction
RN# (Registered Number) or
Manufacturer Name
Physical Characteristics & Performance Testing
*†Fiber Analysis
Dimensional Stability to Washing
(3 Cycles)
Appearance After Washing
(3 Cycles)
Colorfastness to Washing
AATCC 61
AATCC 107
Colorfastness to Light (20 AFU)
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Colorfastness to Non-‐Chlorine Bleach
Fabric Weight
Thread Count (Stitch Density)
Yarn Count
Bursting Strength
Snagging Resistance
Color Change: Grade 3.5 min.
Color Stain: Grade 3.0 min.
Dry: Grade 3.5 min.
Wet: Grade 2.5 min.
AATCC 8 / 116
AATCC 16
Report actual or +/-‐ 5.0% if claimed
40.0 lbs/in2 min.
Grade 3.5 min. after 600 cycles
AATCC 15
AATCC/ASTM TS-‐001
ASTM D3776
ASTM D3887
ASTM D1059
ASTM D3786
ASTM D3939
Only in direction of stretch.
Fabric Stretch: 15% min.
Fabric Growth: 5% max.
ASTM D2594
Stretch and Recovery
Formaldehyde Spot Test
Formaldehyde Determination
pH Determination
*†Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Negative
<75 ppm
General: 6.0-‐8.0
Whites: 5.0-‐7.0
Class 1
Spot Test
JIS L1041
AATCC 81
16 CFR 1610
Remark: Additional tests may be incurred subject to the final samples reviewed by Intertek.
Key:
* = Additional Charge Items (As Applicable or Requested)
† : Mandatory Requirement
Vendor Handbook
C-20
Spring, 2016
Standards
SECTION C
Testing Standards
Updated August 2015
SOCKS - Regulatory Compliance
Description
Method
Regulatory, Analytical & Chemical
Requirement
The sample should be reviewed against the To determine if additional testing or labeling is required. In lieu of testing, a passing test
requirements of California Proposition 65 Note: Additional cost, sample size & TAT may be required if testing to 1 or more supplemental protocol is
necessary. Please refer to the above referenced supplemental protocol(s) for additional information.
*†Lead Content in Paint and Similar
16 CFR 1303
Shall not exceed 90ppm (0.009% by weight) total lead.
Surface Coating
(Scope Widened)
Labeling
†One Time Use Products
Fair Packaging and Labelling Act
OR
All Other Products
Uniform Packaging and Labelling
Regulations
Manufacturer, packer, or distributor’s name &
Product Identification
F.P. & L. Act
(16 CFR 500)
OR
NIST Uniform Laws
and Regulations
Handbook 130
Net quantity of contents shall be expressed in
terms of weight or mass, measure, numerical
count, or combination so as to give accurate
information to facilitate consumer comparison
(U.S. and metric units).
19 CFR 134.11
Shall indicate country of origin legibly,
permanently, and in comparable size and close
proximity to any mention of country other than
country in which the article was manufactured
or produced. Must be visible at point of
purchase.
Visual
Use/care instructions that are clear and
understandable shall be provided in language
appropriate to destination countries
16 CFR 423
Must be sewn in permanently and must comply
with regulations (Care Labelling Rule)
Fiber Content
16 CFR 303 / 300
Must be visible at point of sale & must comply
with regulations (Textile Fibers Identification Act
or Wool Products Labelling Act)
Sewn in Label
FTC
Must comply with regulations
Visual
Verify presence (Textile Fiber Products
Identification Act or Wool Products Labelling Act)
†Country of Origin Marking
Use Labelling
Care Instruction
RN# (Registered Number) or
Manufacturer Name
Physical Characteristics & Performance Testing
*†Fiber Analysis
Dimensional Stability to Washing
(3 Cycles)
Appearance After Washing
(3 Cycles)
AATCC 150
Per Dimensional
Stability to Washing
Colorfastness to Washing
AATCC 61
AATCC 107
Colorfastness to Light (20 AFU)
Colorfastness to Perspiration
Colorfastness to Non-‐Chlorine Bleach
Fabric Weight
Thread Count (Stitch Density)
Yarn Count
Bursting Strength
Pilling Resistance (30 minutes)
Formaldehyde Spot Test
Formaldehyde Determination
pH Determination
*†Flammability of Clothing Textiles
Claims (Additional Charge)
*Air Permeability Test
(If breathable is claimed or on
request)
*Anti-‐Microbial Test
(If claimed or on request)
Single Fiber: No tolerance
Blended Fiber: +/-‐ 3% tolerance
Fibers (<5%): I.D. shown as “Other Fiber” with %
Spandex (<5%): I.D. shown as %
Shrinkage: -‐5.0%
Growth: +5.0%
AATCC 20/20A
Satisfactory
Dry: Grade 3.5 min.
Wet: Grade 2.5 min.
AATCC 8 / 116
AATCC 16
40.0 lbs/in2 min.
Grade 3.5 min.
Negative
<75 ppm
General: 6.0-‐8.0
Whites: 5.0-‐7.0
AATCC 15
ASTM D3776
ASTM D3887
ASTM D1059
ASTM D3786
ASTM D3512
Spot Test
JIS L1041
AATCC 81
Class 1
16 CFR 1610
>10 cfm
ASTM D737
PASS
AATCC 147
Remark: Additional tests may be incurred subject to the final samples reviewed by Intertek.
Key:
* = Additional Charge Items (As Applicable or Requested)
† : Mandatory Requirement
Vendor Handbook
C-21
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
Testing Standards
INTERTEK CONTACTS
Intertek
Asia:
China:
Intertek Hong Kong
Address: 2/F., Garment Centre,
576 Castle Peak Road, Kowloon
Hong Kong China
Customer Service
Yuki Poon
Tel: (852) 2173 8332
Email: [email protected]
Back up
Evita Yeung
Tel: (852) 2173 8357
Account manager
Stephanie Wong
Tel: (852) 2173 8306
Back up
Carly Hui
Tel: (852) 2173 8205
Intertek Hangzhou
3-4F,NO.6 Bldg, 1180 Bianan Rd.,
Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Bing Jiang Zone
Hangzhou China
Customer Service Contact
Penny Tang
Tel: 86 - 0571-87688260
Lucy zhao
Tel.: 86 - 0571-87688255
Intertek Guangzhou
3Floor, HengYun Building, No. 235
Kai Fa Avenue,
Guangzhou Economic And Technological
Development District, Guangzhou,
Guangdong, China
Customer Services
Kitty Xu
Tel: 86-020-28209238
Customer Services
Elly Liu
Tel: 86-020-28209307
Intertek Shenzhen
7/F, Shekou Technology Main Building,
Industrial 7th Road, Shekou Shenzhen
Customer Services
Sharon Huang
Tell: 86-755-26020200
Back up
Zoe xu
Tell: +86 (755) 2602-0362
Account Manager:
Nina Mi
Tell: 86-755-26020073
Intertek Ningbo
5/F No. 6 Building, Lingyun Industry Park,
No.1177 Lingyun Road, Ningbo National Hi-Tech Zone,
Ningbo, China
Customer Service
Name: Yana Lin
Tel: +86 574 8818 3693
Intertek Qingdao
Account Manager:
Frank Zhang
Tel: 86-532-80993326
Textile Lab, Floor 2, Building 11, No.177,
Zhuzhou Road, Laoshan District, Qingdao, China
Intertek Shanghai
2nd Floor,Building No.4,ShangHai
Comalong Industrial Park,889 YiShan RD
Shanghai, China
Name: Denise Wu
Tel: +86 574 8818 3692
Customer Services:
Ms. Nana Xu
Tel: 86-21-60917085
Customer Services:
Ms. Angel Zhu
Tel: 86-21-60917244
Account Manager
Ms. Stella Shen
Tel: +86-21-6091 7112
Intertek Tianjin
2-4 Floor, YiShangHuTong Building,
No.7 GuiYuan Road, HuaYuan Hi-Tech. Park
Tianjin, China
Account Manager
Michelle Wang
Tel.:0086 22 83715191
Richel Gong
Tel: 0086 22 83713052
Intertek Wuxi
No.8 Fubei Road,
Xishan Economic Development Zone
Wuxi, China
Account Manager
Ida Zhang
Tel: 86 510 88218557
Nicole Wu
Tel: 0086 510 88218556
Leona Zhu
Tel: +86 510 8821 8515
Bangladesh (Dhaka):
Intertek House Bangladesh
Phoenix Tower, 2nd & 3rd Floor,
407, Tejgaon Industrail Area, Dhaka – 1208,
Bangladesh
Bangladesh (Chittagong):
Intertek Labtest Bangladesh Ltd., Chittagong.
11th Floor, C&F Tower
No. 1712 (Old No. 1222)
Sheik Mujib Road
Agrabad C/A, Chittagong
Bangladesh
Contact for Account updates
Contact for Submission inquiries Rakib Zaman
Deputy Manager (Textile)
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2202)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866
Mahmuda Akter
Asst. Supervisor (CCS)
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2101)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866
Main Contact:
Main Contact:
Back up:
Back up:
Goutam Kumar Roy
Sr. Lab Manager (Textile)
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2222)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866.
Kafee Yusuf
Sr. Manager (CCS)
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2123)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866.
Contact for Submission inquiries Main Contact:
Main Contact:
Ashiqur Rahman Bhuiyan
Tel: 880 31 2526918-21 (Ext- 701)
Fax: +88 031 252 6922
Mizbah Uddin
Supervisor (CCS)
Tel:
880 31 2526918-21
Spring,
2016 (Ext- 405)
Fax: +88 031 252 6922
Back up:
Back up:
Vendor Handbook
C-22
Phoenix Tower, 2nd & 3rd Floor,
407, Tejgaon Industrail Area, Dhaka – 1208,
Bangladesh
SECTION C
Rakib Zaman
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2202)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866
Mahmuda Akter
Asst. Supervisor (CCS)
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2101)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866
Back up:
Back up:
Testing Standards
INTERTEK CONTACTS, CONT.
Goutam Kumar Roy
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2222)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866.
Kafee Yusuf
Sr. Manager (CCS)
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2123)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866.
Bangladesh (Chittagong):
Intertek Labtest Bangladesh Ltd., Chittagong.
11th Floor, C&F Tower
No. 1712 (Old No. 1222)
Sheik Mujib Road
Agrabad C/A, Chittagong
Bangladesh
Contact for Submission inquiries Ashiqur Rahman Bhuiyan
Tel: 880 31 2526918-21 (Ext- 701)
Fax: +88 031 252 6922
Mizbah Uddin
Supervisor (CCS)
Tel: 880 31 2526918-21 (Ext- 405)
Fax: +88 031 252 6922
PT. Intertek Utama Services
Jl. Cikini IV no 2
Gondangdia Jakarta Pusat
Indonesia 10330
Singapore:
Intertek Singapore
5 Pereira Rd, #06-01 Asiawide Industrial Building
Singapore 368025
Taiwan:
Intertek Taiwan
8F, No. 423, Ruiguang Rd., Neihu District,
Taipei 114, Taiwan, R.O.C.
Thailand:
Intertek Thailand
5/1 Soi Chaloem Suk, Chankasem, Chatuchak
Bangkok, Thailand
Vietnam:
Intertek Vietnam
1st Floor, E. Town EW Building
364 Cong Hoa Street Ward 13
Tan Binh District
Korea:
Intertek Korea
1/F A-Ju Digital Tower, 284-56 Seongsu 2-Ga
Seongdong-Gu, Seoul Korea
Main Contact:
Main Contact:
Back up:
Back up:
Goutam Kumar Roy
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2222)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866.
Kafee Yusuf
Sr. Manager (CCS)
Tel: +880 9666776669 (Ext: 2123)
Fax: 880-2-912 5866.
Made Widyani
Tel +62 21 3912391
Neneng Siti Nurhasanah
Tel : +62 21 3918450
Account Manager
Wong Lai Yee
Tel : 65-63810631
Danny Chia
Tel: 65-6381-0663
Account Manager
Ms.Doreen Chang
Tel: 886-2-6602-2601
Customer Services Contact
Ms.Reed Hsu
Tel: +886-2-6602-2640
Account Manager
Sukanya Poonsawat
Tel : (662) 9390661
Julaporn Suwannahong
Tel : (662) 9390661
Account manager
Phuong Le
Tel: 84 86 2971099 Ext: 136
Direct: 84 86 2971122
Customer Service contact
Silvia Febriani
Tel: 84 86 2971099 Ext: 164
Direct: 84 86 2971092
Account Manager
Susan Park
Phone number: +82-2-6090-9509
Customer Service contact
Cindy Kim
Phone number: +82-2-6090-9687
Sunny Noh
Phone number : +82-2-6090-9525
Pakistan:
Intertek Pakistan
1st Floor Attara Tower, Plot No.: E-‐6, Block 7 & 8,
Central Commercial Area, KCHSU, Karachi, Pakistan
Account Manager
Ms. Noushaba Farooq
Phone: +92 21 34320802 – 05
Mr. Kashif Khalid
Phone: +92 21 34320802 – 05
Mr. Doulat Ram Lohana
Phone: +92 21 34320802 – 05
Philippines:
Intertek Philippines
2307 Intertek Bldg. Pasong Tamo Extension
Philippines
Account Manager
Jenny S. Paloma
Tel: +632 8195841to 47
Customer Service
Caterine F. Perlas
Tel: + 63 2 8195841 to 47
Edlyn Tuibeo-Tejidor
Tel: +632 8195841 to 47
India:
Intertek - Gurgaon (New Delhi)
290, Udyog Vihar, Phase II||
Gurgaon (New Delhi) India
Account Manager
Umesh Kumar
Tel: +91 124-4503405
Laboratory Manager
Govind Kumar Jha
Tel: +91 124 4503426
Account Manager
Abhijit Bhattacharya
Tel: +91 124 4503423
Intertek - Mumbai
Intertek Testing Services India Pvt. Ltd,
G3, Ground Floor, Akruti Corporate Park,
LBS Marg, Opp: Naval Civilian Housing Colony,
Kanjurmarg (West), Mumbai, India
Asst. Manager - Customer Service
Rekha Satheesh
Tel: +91 22 67976952
Vendor Handbook
C-23
Customer Service Executive
Husain Bootwala
Tel: +91 22-67976939
Laboratory Manager
Indira Devadiga
Tel: +91 22 67976931
Email:
[email protected]
Spring,
2016
Edlyn Tuibeo-Tejidor
Tel: +632 8195841 to 47
India:
Intertek - Gurgaon (New Delhi)
SECTION
C Vihar, Phase II||
290, Udyog
Account Manager
Umesh Kumar
Tel: +91 124-4503405
Gurgaon (New Delhi) India
Laboratory Manager
Govind Kumar Jha
Tel: +91 124 4503426
Testing Standards
INTERTEK CONTACTS, CONT.
Account Manager
Abhijit Bhattacharya
Tel: +91 124 4503423
Intertek - Mumbai
Intertek Testing Services India Pvt. Ltd,
G3, Ground Floor, Akruti Corporate Park,
LBS Marg, Opp: Naval Civilian Housing Colony,
Kanjurmarg (West), Mumbai, India
Asst. Manager - Customer Service
Rekha Satheesh
Tel: +91 22 67976952
Laboratory Manager
Indira Devadiga
Tel: +91 22 67976931
Husain Bootwala
Tel: +91 22-67976939
Intertek – Bangalore
17/F, Industrial Suburb, 2nd Stage, Industrial Area
Yeshwanthpur, Bangalore, India
Account Manager
Munendra Ramachandrappa
Tel: +91 80-40213729
Assistant Manager – Customer Service
Jogesh Kumar
Tel: +91 80 40213761
Intertek – Tirupur
501, Opp. To LRG College,
Palladam Road, Thennampalayam,
Tirupur-641 604. Tamilnadu. India
Muthukumar
Tel: +91 421 4306643
Lab Manager
Arasu Ma
Tel: +91 421-4306627
Laboratory Manager
Vandana Jutton
Tel: +230 56980343
Testing Inquiries:
Global Account Managers:
Vincenza Oreste
Tel: +39 055 790873
Mobile: +39 346 0658855
Technical Contact:
Ilenia Francioni
Tel: +39 055 790873
Mobile: +39 346 0658835
Africa:
Intertek – Mauritius
2 Palmerston Road
Phoenix Mauritius
Europe:
Intertek – Italy
Via Barontini 22/B
Scandicci 50018 Italy
Laura Giaquinta
Tel: +39 055 790873
The Americas:
Intertek – USA Laboratory (US Testing Submissions)
545 E. Algonquin Road, Suite F,
Arlington Heights, IL USA
Account Manager
Kathy DeVito
Tel: 847-871-1052
Laboratory Director
Ravi Duraisamy
Tel: 847-871-1037
Senior Manager
Brandy Chesney
Tel: (847) 971-1058
Intertek US BD Office
1 Gateway Center, Suite 1040
Newark, NJ 07102
Global Account Manager
Emily Davis
Tel: (732) 394-5576
Intertek – Latin America - Guatemala
46 Calle 21-53 zona 12
Expobodegas Petapa 46, Edificio 10
Guatemala City, Guatemala
Client Service Manager
Alex Glaesel
Tel: 50223035800
Vendor Handbook
C-24
Spring, 2016
SECTION D
PRODUCT SAFETY/
GCC COMPLIANCE
SECTION D
Product Safety/GCC Compliance
May 1, 2013
Dear Supplier,
Re: Appleseed’s, Tog Shop, and Linen Source Compliance Policy
The Consumer Product Safety Commission requires that all products must prove to “protect the public
against unreasonable risks of injuries associated with consumer products”. Since September 2010, retailers
have been required to provide a General Certificate of Conformity (GCC) for all products. This includes
both imported and domestically manufactured products. The GCC documents the product, Importer of
Record, and proof of product testing. Below are some highlighted details of this process.
• A
reasonable testing program must be established for ensuring safe products.
For Johnny Appleseed’s, Inc. & Linen Source Acquisitions, LLC brands, this means:
o Fabric Flammability Testing or proof of exemption for apparel products, including scarves.
o Prop 65 Compliance Testing for Jewelry, Shoes, Handbags, and Accessories.
o Additional Prop 65 Compliance Testing on apparel notions and trims as requested.
o All merchandise must conform to all CPSC regulations. www.cpsc.gov
• O
ur designated lab, Intertek, is aware of these guidelines and regulations, and we have test packages
available that will conform to these requirements. All lab testing is vendor paid.
• Vendors may submit tests to any testing lab. Vendors may also submit test reports from manufacturing
suppliers or previous customers, but are subject to approval.
• Test submissions must be passing and meet all standards as described in our Testing Protocols.
• L
ab Tests must be submitted to [email protected], along with a completed
GCC form, before shipping. GCC’s must be filled out in their entirety in order to be valid.
• Completed GCC’s must be included within the Commercial Invoice document packages for each shipment.
The same GCC may be submitted for multiple shipments within a season.
• Failure to comply with these expectations may result in shipment delays, cancellations, and/or
financial penalties.
Please see the attached Inspection, Country of Origin, and CPSC Conformity Certification (GCC) for your
use. We ask that you please review this information and contact [email protected]
if you have any questions. The policy outlined above will be effective for all deliveries due in DC on or after
July 1, 2013.
We look forward to your cooperation and compliance to these requirements. As always, we appreciate your
partnership.
Thank you,
Vendor Compliance
Vendor Handbook
D-1
Spring, 2016
page 1 of 2
Inspection, Country of Origin, and CPSC Conformity Certification (GCC)
Submission Date:
Agent/Vendor Name:
Brand/Division:
Vendor Contact:
Style Number(s):
Style Description(s):
Consumer Product Safety Commission Certification:
THIS IS TO CERTIFY that the above mentioned merchandise is compliant with the following Consumer Product Safety Commission regulation(s). Please X all that apply below: Wearing Apparel Flammability 16 CFR 1610
Exempt from Wearing Apparel Flammability 16 CFR 1610
Carpets & Rugs Flammability 16 CFR 1630
Small Carpets & Rugs Flammability 16 CFR 1631
Mattresses & Mattress Pads 16 CFR 1632
Small Parts 16 CFR Part 1501 and 1500.50 -‐ 53
Sharp Points and Edges 16 CFR 1500.48 and 49
Lead Paint Ban/Lead Content 16 CFR 1303, CPSIA Section 101
Federal Hazardous Substances Act 15 U.S.C. 1261
Phthalates CPSIA Section 108
Other: Third Party Lab Testing Facility
Date Tested:
Test Report # (s):
Laboratory Name:
Address:
City/State/Zip:
Country:
Contact/Phone:
E-‐mail:
THIS IS TO CERTIFY that the above mentioned Test Report(s) were submitted to Appleseed's.
Please submit a copy of this form, along with passing Test Report(s) to [email protected].
Signed by:
Manufacturer Company Officer
This form of certificate does not replace or supersede the CPSC statute or requirements of the legislation, which are subject to change. page 2 of 2
Inspection and Social Compliance Certification:
THIS IS TO CERTIFY that the merchandise, as identified in this document, is according to the Purchase Order and has been
inspected and approved for shipment by the undersigned. This inspection does not absolve the vendor of full responsibility for
conformance to order specification and all applicable safety and labeling regulations. The vendor shall be liable for any defects.
Full rights are reserved to claim to the suppliers for any faults and/or discrepancies to be found in the goods.
You also verify all merchandise inspected and shipped is in compliance with the National Labor Laws of the country it was
manufactured in. Johnny Appleseed's, Inc. and Linen Source Aquisition, LLC will not accept delivery or do business with vendors
who utilize forced, prison, or illegal child labor.
US Importer or Domestic Manufacturer Certifying Compliance
Individual Maintaining Records
Company Name:
Contact Name:
(if different)
Address:
City/State/Zip:
Country:
Phone:
E-‐mail:
Date and Place this Product was Manufactured
Date Manufactured:
Manufacturer Name:
Address:
City/State/Zip:
Country:
Phone:
E-‐mail:
Country of Origin Verification:
The merchandise shipped by stated vendor on this certificate complies with all country of origin requirements and all
manufacturing operations were performed in the country specified. This is verified by a detailed 4-‐step inspection process at the
country of origin manufacturing facility. I, the undersigned, do unequivocally guarantee that any and all textile products shipped
to or purchased by Johnny Appleseed's, Inc, Linen Source Aquisition, LLC, or any of their subsidiaries, present or future, conform to the U.S. Customs Services laws regarding Country of Origin. I further certify, that the merchandise shipped has not been
transshipped to avoid quota or other restrictions. I do understand that in the event that U.S. Customs denies entry or assesses
any claim for liquidated damages on the grounds that the product was illegally transshipped that all orders and commitments will
be cancelled, and the liquidated damages assessed by U.S. Customs will be deducted from any outstanding payments .
Signed by:
Duly Authorized Agent of Johnny Appleseed's (importer & private labeler)
This form of certificate does not replace or supersede the CPSC statute or requirements of the legislation, which are subject to change. SECTION D
I have read and acknowledge compliance to the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act.
Company Name ________________________________________________________________
Principal or Officer’s Signature ___________________________________________________
Date _________________________________________________________________________
Contact Name and E-mail Address for person managing this compliance program.
Contact ______________________________________________________________________
E-mail Address ________________________________________________________________
Please include the Company Name in the subject line of the e-mail. Fill in appropriate contact
information, sign, date and e-mail within 30 days to
[email protected]
This form of certification and instruction does not replace or supersede CPSC statue, interpretative
regulations and/or guidance documents, which may be updated or change from time-to-time.
You are encouraged to consult such materials and legal counsel.
Vendor Handbook
D-4
Spring, 2016
SECTION D
RECAP – GCC /testing
• A
pparel:
Along with the GCC we require a copy of a 3rd party lab test. Please reference our style# when
submitting for testing.
o F
or fabrics that are exempt from Flammability testing due to the weight or content of the
fabric, the vendor must still have 3rd party lab test the content or the weight of the fabric to
certify that the fabric is exempt from testing. It is not enough for the vendor to claim that
the fabric is exempt from Flammability testing; the lab must verify by testing the content
or weight of the fabric.
• A
ccessories such as Handbags, Belts, Jewelry, Shoes (incl. detachable shoe buckles):
Along with the GCC we require a copy of a 3rd party lab test that certifies that all components used in
the style have been tested for lead, Cadmium and Phthalates in compliance of California Proposition 65
and/or California Jewelry law. Please reference our style# when submitting for testing. Appleseed’s is not
permitted to sell any products that do not conform to the CA Prop 65 requirements.
• A GCC is required for all products.
• An individual GCC must be submitted for each item. An item includes all size ranges of a style.
• The GCC must be based on an approved lab test of each product.
The GCC is valid as long as a Lab Test Report. Lab Test Reports are valid for each season, up to 1 year.
Once expired, testing must be repeated and the GCC must be updated.
Example: if a test is approved for S13, it will need to be re-tested for the S14 season.
• The GCC and lab tests must be e-mailed at or before shipment of goods to
[email protected]
• The GCC must also be included within the Commercial Invoice document package for each shipment.
The same approved GCC can be submitted for multiple shipments within a season.
• If you are an Importer of record, your company is responsible to ”keep and maintain the records”.
• Please note that it is acceptable to type a “Signature” on the GCC form. The “Signature” will validate the
agreement.
Failure to comply with these expectations may result in shipment delays, cancellations, and/or
financial penalties.
Vendor Handbook
D-5
Spring, 2016
SECTION C
D
Shipping
GENERAL CERTIFICATION OF CONFORMITY
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q. To what products does the general certificate of conformity requirement apply?
A. The requirement to supply a general certificate of conformity applies to products manufactured that are
subject to a consumer product safety rule under the Consumer Product Safety Act or similar rule, ban, standard, or regulation under any other Act enforced by the Commission.
Q. Does the requirement to have a general certificate of conformity include products manufactured
domestically?
A. Yes. The requirement applies to products that are domestically manufactured as well as imported products.
Q. Is the general conformity certificate requirement limited to children’s products?
A. No. All products subject to a consumer product safety rule or one of the similar standards or rules must
be certified.
Q. On what does my certification have to be based?
A. The general conformity certification must be based on a test of each product or a reasonable testing program.
Q. Who must issue the certificate?
A. Under the Commission’s rule at http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/frnotices/fr09/certification.pdf,
for products manufactured overseas, the certificate must be issued by the importer. For products produced
domestically, the certificate must be issued by the U.S. manufacturer. Neither a foreign manufacturer nor
a private labeler is required to issue a certificate. Neither need be identified on the certificate issued by the
importer or domestic manufacturer.
Q. Must each shipment be “accompanied” by a certificate?
A. Yes, the law requires that each import (and domestic manufacturer) shipment be “accompanied” by the
required certificate. The requirement applies to imports and products manufactured domestically.
Q. Is the importer or U.S. manufacturer required to supply the certificate to its distributors and
retailers?
A. Yes. The importer or U.S. manufacturer is required to “furnish” the certificate to its distributors and
retailers.
Q. Where must these certificates be filed?
A. A certificate does not have to be filed with the government. As noted above, the certificate must “accompany” the product shipment, and be “furnished” to distributors and retailers, and be furnished to CPSC
upon request.
These FAQs are unofficial descriptions and interpretations of various features of CPSIA and do not
replace or supersede the statutory requirements of the new legislation. These FAQs were prepared by
CPSC staff, have not been reviewed or approved by, and may not necessarily reflect the views of, the
Commission. Some FAQs may be subject to change based on Commission action.
Vendor Handbook
C-10
D-6
Spring, 2014
2016
SECTION D
SECTION C
Shipping
Q. What information must be on a certificate?
A. The CPSIA sets out what information needs to be on the certificate. The certificate must state each
requirement to which the product is subject, identify each party to the certificate, the third party conformity
assessment body, if any, upon whose testing the certificate is based, and the date and place of manufacture
and of third party testing. The certificate information must include each party’s full name, full mailing
address, telephone number, and contact information for the individual responsible for maintaining records
of test results. The certificate must be in English and also may be in another language. A sample form certification can be found on our website.
Q. Can electronic certificates be used to meet the requirements of Section 102 rather than paper?
A. Yes, so long as the Commission staff can access the certificate electronically and it contains all of the
information required by section 102 of the CPSIA, electronic certificates can be used to satisfy the CPSIA.
Q. Must each product be “accompanied” by a certificate?
A. The certificate may accompany either the product or a shipment of products covered by the same certificate. The requirement applies to imports and products manufactured domestically. An electronic certificate
is “accompanying” a shipment if the certificate is identified by a unique identifier and can be accessed via
a World Wide Web URL or other electronic means, provided the URL or other electronic means and the
unique identifier are created in advance and available with the shipment.
Q. Must I supply the certificate to my distributors and retailers?
A. You are required to “furnish” the certificate to your distributors and retailers. This requirement is satisfied
if you provide a means to access the electronic certificate that is available to your distributors and retailers.
Q. Can a test lab certify for a manufacturer or importer?
A. No. A test lab may put together all of the information for a certificate, but the manufacturer, importer
and private labeler, as applicable, must certify.
Q. Must the certifier(s) sign the certificate?
A. No. Issuing the certificate satisfies the new law. It does not have to be signed by the issuer(s).
Q. To what do I have to certify?
A. That the product conforms to all CPSA standards and bans and similar rules, standards, bans or regulations applicable to the product under any of the other Acts administered by the Commission
Q. Where must these certificates be filed?
A. A certificate does not have to be filed with the government. As noted above, the certificate must “accompany” the product shipment, and be “furnished” to distributors and retailers, and be furnished to CPSC
upon request.
These FAQs are unofficial descriptions and interpretations of various features of CPSIA and do not
replace or supersede the statutory requirements of the new legislation. These FAQs were prepared by
CPSC staff, have not been reviewed or approved by, and may not necessarily reflect the views of, the
Commission. Some FAQs may be subject to change based on Commission action.
Vendor Handbook
Vendor Handbook
D-7
C-11
Spring, 2016
Spring, 2014
SECTION E
INTERNATIONAL SHIPMENTS
SECTION E
International Shipments
1. BASIC INFORMATION
1.1 WHICH PRODUCTS DOES THIS DOCUMENT APPLY TO?
This document is to be used by suppliers outside of the United States as a set of guidelines
for shipments
of goods and production of documents for products shipped to Appleseed’s in the United
States.
1.2 DEFINITIONS
• Importer of Record is defined as “The party responsible for compliance with all U.S. Import laws and regulations”
• Shipper is defined as the party that ships goods from the country they are shipped from.
• Seller is the party that sold the goods to Appleseed’s and will receive monetary payment for
the transaction.
• Country of Origin is defined as the country where the goods are manufactured or produced.
• Buyer is the party who pays for the goods. On import documents, especially the Commercial
Invoice, the importer of record- should be shown as the buyer in the transaction. For purposes
of all Appleseed’s transactions for which Appleseed’s is the buyer and the consignee of the
goods and the terms of sale are FOB or C&F, the buyer should be:
Johnny Appleseed’s, Inc
35 Village Rd
Middleton, MA 01949, USA
Fax: (978) 922-7001
Please contact Blair Logistics team for designated freight forwarder, customs contacts and
relevant transportation instructions: [email protected]
Vendor Handbook
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Spring, 2016
SECTION E
2. PRODUCTS COVERED
All product shipments which are sold to Appleseed’s to be imported into the United States by
Appleseed’s.
2.1 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE OF APPLESEED’S GOODS
All items shipped into the United States which are to show Appleseed’s as the Importer of Record
(where the “Invoice To:” or “Sold To:” on the commercial invoice shows that Appleseed’s is paying
for goods and/or the import Charges), regardless of the dollar value, must be imported through
Appleseed’s authorized Customs Broker .
3. INVOICING, DOCUMENTATION, and RECEIVING ADDRESSES
3.1 BILLING INVOICES FOR USE IN OBTAINING PAYMENT
For suppliers, all copies of the billing invoice for payment should be
mailed direct, depending upon the current form of payment, to one of the
following addresses:
Appleseed’s
Accounts Payable
35 Village Rd
Middleton, MA 01949, USA
3.2 APPLESEED’S RECEIVING ADDRESS
Appleseed’s maintains distribution facility in Irvine, PA. The “Ship To:” address for our facilities
should read as follows:
Appleseed’s
Bluestem Distribution Center
100 Murray Drive,
Irvine (Warren County), PA 16329
3.3 CUSTOMS AND SHIPPING DOCUMENTS
Appleseed’s authorized freight forwarder must be given an “Original” copy of the Commercial
invoice and other required documents at the time freight is tendered to the forwarder.
The following is a list of documents that are or may be required:
• Commercial Invoice
• Packing List
• Fumigation Certificate or Solid Wood Packing Material Statement
• Certificate of Origin
• Textile Visa or License (if applicable)
• Fish and Wildlife Documentation (if applicable)
• Footwear Form (if applicable)
• Other documents as specified on Letter of Credit (if applicable)
• Airway bill
• Original Bill of Lading, Seaway bill, Forwarder’s Cargo Receipt
• GCC General Certificate of Conformity
Vendor Handbook
E-2
Spring, 2016
SECTION E
Appleseed’s freight forwarder will provide copies of all documents to Appleseed’s customs broker.
If a separate party, at a different location other than the location that the goods are being shipped
from, is selling the goods to Appleseed’s and producing commercial invoices, then that party must
provide the commercial invoices and other documents to the Appleseed’s freight forwarder location,
in the country the goods are being shipped from.
Appleseed’s prefers the use of Non-Negotiable “Seaway bills” at all times unless the supplier requires a Negotiable
“Original Bill of Lading”
If the supplier requires the use of an “Original” Ocean Bill of Lading, then one
Original copy of the Ocean Bill of Lading should be forwarded to Appleseed’s
authorized U.S. import broker (Section 03.103) and one Original copy of the
Ocean Bill of Lading should be forwarded to Appleseed’s at the address noted in item 01.304.
4. SHIPPING DOCUMENTS AND INSTRUCTIONS
All shipment documents should be prepared in English. Send invoice or billing documents
for payment by mail to Accounts Payable.
DOCUMENTATION REQUIRED FOR SHIPMENT
4.1 COMMERCIAL INVOICE
Use any accepted international document format giving all the standard information necessary for
international commercial transactions. NOTE: In accordance with Custom Regulation 141.86,
all invoices MUST have the printed name of a responsible employee of the exporter, who has
knowledge or can obtain knowledge of the transaction.
• Name and Address of the Exporter and Consignee
• Date and place of Exportation
• Port of discharge to which the merchandise is destined.
• Invoice number and invoice date.
• A detailed description of the merchandise, in English. This description should include the following:
•Gender
• Material content
• Construction (knit/woven)
• Full product description.
• Apple/Tog Sizing
• Appleseed’s/Tog Shop PO numbers and corresponding style numbers.
• Unit Price(s) and total price(s).
• Type of currency (all should be in US Dollars).
• Total Unit count for each PO.
• Any discounts or assists.
• Carton Count (Per Invoice)
• Net and Gross weights in kilograms (Per Invoice)
• Payment Terms
• Terms of Sale
• FOB (Free On Board) To Named Destination
• Country of Origin
• Name and address of the actual manufacturing facility
Vendor Handbook
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Spring, 2016
SECTION E
• Name and contact information for responsible employee at manufacturing location.
• If Agent is involved in transaction; state if Buying Agent Commission is included
or not included in the commercial invoice price.
4.2 PACKING LIST
The packing list must contain the country of origin for each line item. One packing list
should be included in the documents sent to the forwarder and one packing list should be
attached to the goods.
One original packing list is also required in an envelope attached to or inside a package or
case for each purchase order. If the packing list is inside the package or case, stamp the outside
of the container with “PACKING LIST ENCLOSED.”
4.3 AIR WAYBILL
One (1) copy required for air shipments.
4.4 OCEAN BILL OF LADING
Two (2) endorsed originals and one (1) copy required for ocean shipments with original bill
of lading.
Only one copy is required for seaway bills.
4.5 COUNTRY OF ORIGIN CERTIFICATE
Country of origin certificates may be required.
For ocean shipments moving via Appleseed’s freight forwarder, all required documents will
be given to Appleseed’s freight forwarder for disposition.
24–HOUR ADVANCE VESSEL MANIFEST RULE
Requirements of Cargo Declaration 24-Hour Advance Vessel Manifest Rule;
A) Last foreign port before vessel departs to the USA
B) Carrier SCAC code
C) Carrier-assigned voyage number
D) Date vessel is scheduled to arrive at first US port
E) Number and quantities from carrier’s ocean bills of lading (Master or House)
F) First foreign port where carrier takes possession of cargo destined to the USA
G) Precise description or HTS number to the 6th digit level under which the cargo
is classified and weight of the cargo
H) Shipper’s complete name and address from all bills of lading
I) Consignee’s complete name and address from all bills of lading
J) Vessel name, country of documentation and official vessel number
K) Foreign port where cargo is laden on board
L) International recognized hazardous materials codes, if applicable.
M) Container numbers
N) Seal numbers affixed to containers
Supplier to consult freight forwarder for dates of vessel loading and/or departure,
as well as, manifest declaration deadlines, per vessel sailings.
Failure to provide the required information within the time period prescribed
may result in delay of permit to unlade cargo in the United States and/or the
assessment of civil monetary penalties or claims of liquidated damages.
Vendor Handbook
E-4
Spring, 2016
SECTION E
SHIPMENT OF GOODS
4.6 FREIGHT FORWARDER
Forwarder Identification
Any shipments, for which Appleseed’s is responsible for the “freight collect” transport
expense, must be forwarded via Appleseed’s specified forwarder. Appleseed’s purchasing
representative, working with Appleseed’s can provide the contact information for
Appleseed’s forwarder serving your location.
4.7 SHIPPING TERMS OF SALE (INCOTERMS)
Unless otherwise stated in the purchasing contract, freight terms will be Free on board
Carrier or FOB (Example FOB– Hong Kong). The seller delivers the goods to the Appleseed’s
designated carrier/forwarder at the “named location.” The seller is responsible for clearing
the goods for export, and is also responsible for all costs and risks associated with delivering
the goods to Appleseed’s carrier/forwarder
4.8 TRANSPORTATION CHARGES
Ship Freight Collect unless otherwise stated in the terms and conditions of the purchase order
or contract. Shipments under terms of sale C&F are Freight Prepaid.
Vendor Handbook
E-5
Spring, 2016
SECTION E
5.0 BOOKING OF FREIGHT AND SHIPMENT INFORMATION
All shipments, traveling via air or ocean, must be authorized and confirmed through our designated
forwarder. Seven to ten days prior to turnover date, contact our nominated forwarder and
provide the following information:
-Origin
- Shipper Name
- Appleseed/Tog Purchase Order Number
- Style number (Item number)
-Cartons
-Pieces
- CBM (cubic measurement)
-Weight
- Anticipated Cargo Turnover date
- Number and Type of container equipment required
- If air shipment, advise freight payment status “Collect” or “Air/Sea Difference”
DIRECT IMPORT SHIPPING INFORMATION
Please contact Blair Logistics team for designated freight forwarder, customs contacts and
relevant transportation instructions: [email protected]
LDP Shipments:
To arrange for domestic transportation to our distribution center in Irvine, PA, please consult
Orchard Brands DC Manual and note that the vendor is repsonsible for freight on any merchandise
shipped from a bonded warehouse.
Vendor Handbook
E-6
Spring, 2016
SECTION E
US CUSTOMS 10+2 REQUIREMENTS–
IMPORTER SECURITY FILING
US Customs’ new requirement for Importer Security Filing (10+2 ISF), for ocean shipments
exported
to the US, begins on Jan 26th ‘09.
Due to international trade security requirements that were includ in Safe Port Act of 2006,
Importers are now responsible to file 10 data elements with US Customes 24 hrs prior to a
container being loading on a vessel at the foreign port.
The 10 data elements are:
1. Seller Name & Address
2. Buyer Name & Address
3. Importer of Record Number
4. Consignee Number
5. Manufacturer Name & Address
6. Ship to Party Name & Address
7. Country of Origin
8. HTS Classification Number
9. Container Stuffing Location Name & Address
10. Container Consolidator Name & Address
The additional 2 elements are provided by the steamship line.
Since we will be using a process based on documents, the 10+2 filing will require vendors
to turnover shipping documents to the forwarder much earlier than the current process.
•
•
A template for filing the 10 elements is provided on the next page.
A detailed instruction page follows the template.
Vendor Handbook
E-7
Spring, 2016
SECTION E
IMPORTER SECURITY FILING (10+2) FORM
INSTRUCTIONS:
•
Please contact Blair Logistics team for designated freight forwarder, customs contacts and relevant
transportation instructions: [email protected]
•E-mail this fully completed form to the e-mail address provided by Blair Logistics team at least 5
days prior to schedule vessel sailing.
•
One form is to be complated per each Seller/Vendor and Factory relationship
REQUIRED SHIPMENT INFORMATION
Number of pages:
New ISF:
Update to existing ISF:
Person to contact if there are problems with the fax or e-mail:
Name:
Company:
Phone:
Importer Security Filing – Shipment Header Information:
Booking Number:
Master/house bill of lading number (optional):
Importer Security Filing – Ten (10) Data Elements:
1. Seller name:
Seller Address:
2. Buyer name:
Johnny Appleseeds Inc.
Buyer Address:
3. Importer of record number:
04-110556000
4. Consignee number:
5. Manufacturer Name:
6. Ship to party name:
35 Village Road,
Middleton, MA 01949 US
04-110556000
Manufacturer address:
Johnny Appleseeds Inc.
Ship to party address:
7. Country of origin:
Bluestem DC
100 Murray Drive,
Irvine (Warren County), PA 16329
8. HTS number(s)
HTS Number (10 Digits):
1
PO/Style Numbers:
9. C
ontainer stuffing
location name1 :
Container stuffing
location address:
10. Consolidator name1 :
Consolidator address:
For data elements #9 & #10: - If shipment is factory packed, complete #9 & #10 with factory information.
- If shipment is loose freight, leave #9 & #10 blank.
Vendor Handbook
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Spring, 2016
SECTION E
IMPORTER SECURITY FILING (10+2) FORM
INSTRUCTIONS
PROCESS TIMELINE FOR ISF 10+2:
1) After booking freight, vendor and/or factory will complete the provided Importer Security Filing
(10+2) Sheet, as per below instructions.
2) Vendor and/or factory e-mail the completed and accurate ISF (10+2) sheet to the forwarder using the
e-mail address provided by Blair Logistics team.
3) In the subject line for the above ISF email, please include the following:
“ISF, Appleseeds, Booking #, House Bill of Lading # (if available)”.
4) The ISF Sheet must be sent by email no later than 5 days before schedule vessel sailing:
FORM INSTRUCTIONS:
• One form is to be completed per each Seller/Vendor and Manufacturer/Factory relationship.
• # 1 Seller: Name and address of entity selling goods or our vendor. In the Seller address
also include postal code.
• #5 Manufacturer: Name and address of the company manufacturing the goods.
This is the same company used for the Manufacturer Identification Code (MID).
• # 7 Country of Origin: Country of Manufacture of goods.
• # 8 HTS Number (10 digits): Include the 10 digit HTS classification number we have provided,
our Purchase Order and our Style Number. Include an addition sheet if needed.
• #9 Container Stuffing Location Name and Address: Name and address of the physical
location where the goods were stuffed into the container.
• #10 Consolidator Name and Address: Name and Address of the company that stuffed the
container or arranged the stuffing of the container.
• For data elements #9 & #10:
- If shipment is factory packed, complete #9 & #10 with factory information.
- If shipment is loose freight, leave #9 & #10 blank.
• The remainder of the 10 data elements has been provided to you and will not change.
Vendor Handbook
E-9
Spring, 2016
SECTION F
ACCOUNTING
SECTION F
Accounting
GUIDE TO ACCOUNTS PAYABLE
Invoices for Appleseeds are to be addressed and mailed as follows:
Appleseed’s/ Tog Shop
Attn: Accounts Payable
35 Village Road
Middleton, MA 01949
Invoices must contain the following information:
• Payment terms and special allowance
• Description of merchandise
• Purchase Order Number (one purchase order number per invoice)
• Quantity ordered and shipped
• Unit cost and extended cost for each item
• Ship To address
Deductions:
• Credits issued by suppliers will be deducted immediately.
• Return goods deductions will be deducted based on the shipment date.
•Deductions for receiving shortages and billing errors will be deducted on the same
check as payment of invoice.
•Payment discrepancies will be researched upon receipt of a written request.
Paybacks will be made when Vendor claims are determined to be correct.
• Copies of deductions will be attached to check when payment is made
• Vendor chargebacks are noted as follows:
1) 0000xxxxxCR indicates a chargeback was issued for a Return To Vendor or a
routing guide violation.
2) ADJ after the invoice number indicates a deduction was taken on the invoice.
An explanation will be attached to the check.
3) FRT after the invoice number indicates a deduction for freight. Please refer to
Section C for instructions on submitting invoices for freight.
Appleseed’s and Tog Shop, Inc will not pay freight charges that appear on the same
invoice with merchandise. These charges are to be billed to us on a separate invoice.
Vendor Handbook
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Spring, 2016
SECTION F
Accounting
DELIVERY-TIME CHARGEBACKS
Appleseed’s and the Tog Shop require all items to be in stock prior to a catalog mail date.
These delivery dates are communicated in advance by the Buyer and Planner. The Ship Complete By
date on the Purchase Order is the date by which all items on the Purchase Order are to be completely
shipped from your warehouse. The In House By date is the date by which all items should arrive at
our Distribution Center. Failure to meet these dates jeopardizes our commitment to our customers and
will result in a chargeback to the Vendor.
These chargebacks are as follows:
1.We reserve the right to cancel late purchase orders. Accepted Late shipments will incur a 1% reduction in the overall cost of the order for every business day that the order
is late. This can result in a maximum chargeback of 30% and cannot be reversed.
Delivery extension requests should be directed to the individual Planner 30 days prior
the scheduled Ship Complete By date.
2.Unauthorized cancellation or failure to deliver a shipment will also result in a
chargeback for each customer backorder that must be canceled due to the “nondelivery”
of merchandise. Chargeback penalties are assessed individually.
3.Early delivery of a shipment (one that is received 40 calendar days or more before the
In House By date on the Purchase Order) will be assessed a penalty charge of $100.00
per shipment. Also, Appleseed’s reserves the right to apply 30 days dating in payment
of the order.
Vendor Handbook
F-2
Spring, 2016

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