YELLOWKNIFE
Transcription
YELLOWKNIFE
Cold: Put it to the test YELLOWKNIFE NORTHWEST TERRITORIES, CANADA A PREMIER LOCATION FOR COLD WEATHER TESTING TABLE OF CONTENTS Welcome. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Ice Road Reality - Erik Madsen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Polar Pilots - Paul Laserich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Designed With Cold In Mind - Jerry Jaud. . . . . . . . 8 Amenities And Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Map Of Yellowknife And Facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 The Other Desert Race - Scott Smith. . . . . . . . . . . 16 Kingdom Of Snow And Ice - Anthony Foliot . . . . 18 Testing Snowmobiles On Dog-sled Tracks Grant Beck. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Under The Lights - Don Morin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Cold Facts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Key Contacts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 LOOKING FOR COLD? WE ARE IT ! As soon as you arrive in Yellowknife, you feel the City’s distinctive northern character as a cold climate City. Our rocky topography is covered for a large part of the year by a blanket of ice and snow as our City bustles with daily activity. We are a small City with the infrastructure, amenities and services found in a much larger City. Whether you need an empty building to cold test an airplane, storage for your equipment and gear, a frozen lake, or comfortable accommodations – you will find what you need in Yellowknife. If work is not what brings you to our winter City, you will be kept busy with an abundance of winter activity you will not find elsewhere. If you are looking to test yourself mentally and physically, check out the hard-core endurance races at the Rock and Ice Ultra. When you have some down time, take in some ice fishing, cross-country skiing, northern lights viewing and dog sledding. The list of possibilities is endless in Yellowknife, Diamond Capital of North America™. 1 2 3 4 WARM WELCOME FROM THE WINTER CITY Our City of 20,000 was built on cold and gold. People who live here have gone far beyond developing ingenious ways to build houses and ice roads, run successful businesses, maintain vehicles, and stay warm over eight months of sub-zero temperatures. Yellowknifers have turned this Arctic landscape into something to be celebrated. We have a variety of outdoor events during the winter season: from festivals and races with both four-legged and two-legged species - kite-skiing, skijoring, pond hockey tournaments, ice fishing, snowmobiling… the list goes on and on. In other words, we are brought together as a community by the cold. Our winters may be long and cold, but our City is vibrant and one of the most welcoming places you will ever visit. You are guaranteed to experience two things if you travel to Yellowknife during winter: what it feels like to live and play in Canada’s coldest City year-round, and the hardy, friendly people who love to work and play outside! It’s cold and we love it. Gordon Van Tighem Mayor, City Of Yellowknife 1 1 Erik Madsen ICE ROAD REALITY Every year since 1982, a seasonal road is built that starts just outside of Yellowknife. It is 600 kilometres long, bearing north of the City and extends to Canada’s northern tundra. The road, which is usually opened from January to March or April, is the supply lifeline to Canada’s first diamond mines – BHP Billiton’s Ekati Mine, Rio Tinto’s Diavik Diamond Mines, and De Beers’ Snap Lake Mine – and other resource and exploration projects along the route. The equipment is huge, the cargo precious, and the road is made entirely out of ice! “SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT. EVERY DRIVER GOES THROUGH A COMPLETE SAFETY AND ORIENTATION COURSE.” Forty-two inches of ice is all that may separate a 200,000-pound 18-wheeler from the unforgiving deep waters beneath the icy surface of the world’s longest ice road - Tibbitt to Contwoyto. 2 Everything from the road planning, construction and maintenance, safety and speed limits to haul schedules is very much the business of Erik Madsen, Director of Winter Road Operations. The road is managed by the Joint Venture Management Committee, which is made up of BHP Billiton Diamonds Inc. and Diavik Diamond Mines Inc. It is the experience and effort of Erik and his team that helps build the world’s longest ice road. Their main focus at all times is making sure that everyone stays safe on the route, which takes the average driver 12-15 hours to drive one way. “Safety is paramount. Every driver goes through a complete safety and orientation course. We have three camps along the route with crews that are constantly monitoring, repairing and up-keeping the ice at all times,” says Erik. Constructing the ice road is much more complicated than letting winter take over and turn the lakes and portages to ice. Specialized, amphibious vehicles called Hagglunds are fired up and are the first on the ice. These short, stout vehicles look like a couple of sea cans on tank tracks, but are expertly designed to drive on only eleven inches of ice and they float if required. The Hagglunds start at the beginning 5 6 of the route and, with helicopter support above, drive the length of the road, dragging an electronic device behind them that measures the ice thickness. They plot the best course with GPS and identify areas where the ice thickness needs to be enhanced. The big toys are brought out next, such as the SnowCats. The SnowCats start the arduous but crucial journey of clearing snow on the route. As the snow is cleared, the road takes shape. But the snow also acts as an 7 insulator, so areas that have more snow will have thinner ice. When the snow is removed and the icy surface is exposed to the -40°C temperature, the ice thickens. When the road is cleared of snow, flood and drill crews come in to “focus flood” the area. This maintains a constant ice thickness. It is up to each driver to maintain the regulated speed limits (which vary depending on location and whether or not the truck is carrying a full load), use common sense, and drink some strong coffee. Erik and his crew know the Arctic cold well. From experimenting with hydraulics that need to survive long journeys in -40°C, to using methyl hydrate in frozen brake lines, they have learned all the tricks of the “cold” trade. It is their job to deal with the extremity of their surroundings and use the cold expertly to build this road, which is unlike any other in the world. 3 9 8 10 11 Cold Facts • First year of operation 1982. • Length 568 km with 495 km (87%) over frozen lakes and 73 km (13%) over land. • There are 64 over land portages. 2007 was a record year for the ice road. Some facts include: • The ice road was in operation for 73 days. • 10,922 loads were hauled 4 north up the ice road, which weighed 331,000 tonnes. • Approximately 700 drivers were registered. • 17 security staff logged 270,000 km on the group’s 10 trucks. Security patrols the road 24 hours a day during the season. (source: www.jvtcwinterroad.ca) 12 5 Paul Laserich POLAR PILOTS Paul Laserich had no choice but to go into aviation. He talks about being “drafted” back in the 1960s by his father Willy Laserich, who is a legend in Canadian Arctic aviation history. Willy was considered to be an adventurous pilot who put the needs of the people in small northern communities first no matter what the aviation rules were at that time. Paul has a storybook full of epic adventures and has even survived a mid-air engine failure due to extreme wind-chill conditions. “FLYING UP HERE IS ALWAYS A CHALLENGE, IT’S ALWAYS EXCITING. YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT WILL HAPPEN FROM DAY TO DAY IN THESE CONDITIONS BUT IT KEEPS YOU ON YOUR TOES AND THAT’S WHAT MAKES IT GREAT.” Spend five minutes with Paul, and it is obvious that the apple has not fallen far from the tree. He exudes a rugged frontier spirit of adventure and excitement. When asked why he continues to run an aviation company North of 60, his reasons are clear. 6 “Because I’m living the dream. I’ve been here for 49 years and there’s nothing like it. It’s more personable and I know people in all the communities. When I walk into a terminal, I know I’m going to see someone I know,” says Paul. His company, Adlair Aviation, has operated in the North since the 1960s. The airline transports goods and passengers to and from remote communities, provides MedEvac services, and has strong connections to aviation industry partners that have put their planes and products to the test in Arctic conditions. Aircraft can be expected to withstand temperatures of -70°C with wind chill when operating in northern skies. As a result, companies from around the world come here to test everything, including the engine, avionics, windshields and tires on their aircraft. The Gulfstream G-450, Bombardier Learjet RJ700, Hawker 800, the U.S. Airforce, NASA, and even the world famous Airbus A380, have all used Yellowknife as their primary destination for cold weather testing. When asked why companies use Yellowknife as the testing destination and not further north or Alaska, Paul says, “Yellowknife is strategically placed. It is close enough to the States but has the cold conditions of the most remote Arctic places in the world. At the same time, it also has all the modern facilities and amenities a cold weather testing crew needs such as hotels, Internet access and daily flights.” He gives an example of having cold tested a jet engine, which led to its sudden failure. They needed a new engine and within 24 hours, one was shipped from Tulsa, Oklahoma to Yellowknife via courier! to be here and part of the ongoing adventure that is the North. Paul and his crew have learned the tricks of the trade through decades of operating in this “Flying up here is always a extreme climate: from installing challenge, it’s always exciting. battery blankets, placing You never know what will heaters around avionics, using happen from day to day in these engine tents to putting conditions, but it keeps you on anti-freeze in the wheels. your toes, and that’s what makes Despite the added concerns it great,” says Paul. and dangers of operating aircraft in the North, Paul and his team are YELLOWKNIFE IS THE BUSIEST proud and excited Cold Fact AIRPORT IN NORTHERN CANADA. 7 Jerry Jaud DESIGNED WITH COLD IN MIND For FSC Architects and Engineers, cold weather testing is at the core of everything they do. Established as a company in 1976, they have since built themselves into one of the top Northern firms for large-scale cold regions design and construction. Their infrastructure projects stand as a testament to their expertise throughout the three northern territories – Northwest Territories, Nunavut, Yukon – and Russia. FSC received a prestigious honour in 2008, when they made the list of Canada’s Top 100 Employers. Rather than focus on the firm’s accolades, Operations Manager Jerry Jaud would rather chat about the ins and outs of building in the extreme North. “IN OUR INDUSTRY, THE LESSONS WE HAVE LEARNED UP HERE HAVE BECOME EXPORTABLE TECHNOLOGIES.” FSC Architects and Engineers know from experience that building in Arctic temperatures takes a lot of knowledge, expertise and years of living in the North to understand the issues that need to be addressed. “It takes 2-3 years to actualize a project and another 4 years for problem solving and bug testing. The north is our testing grounds, every project is essentially cold weather testing for us… but in slow motion,” says Jerry. 8 Some of Yellowknife’s largest buildings come with the FSC name tag attached: the North Slave Correctional Centre, and the NWT Legislative Assembly Building. The nuts and bolts of building in the cold are not the only components considered when FSC works on a project. “It’s all about the cold and the logistics of remote locations like ours just as much as it is about creating good experiences and contributing to a client’s quality of life,” says Jerry. To ensure that quality of life continues for many years, Yellowknife’s climate, ground conditions and remote location are serious considerations during the building design phase, along with structural engineering, mechanical, electrical and environmental aspects. Due to Yellowknife’s extremely cold winters compared to its hot summers, there is often a 60˚ expansion/contraction factor that any structure, be it a building or a road, will have to endure over time. This has resulted in transitioning to the use of Canadian wood framing in buildings and specialized concrete road. Permafrost is another main consideration for building projects in the North, and Yellowknife is situated right in the middle of what is called a ‘discontinuous permafrost belt.’ This means that unlike many other locations in the North, the ground conditions here are variable in any given location, which requires innovative thinking in terms of building design. To counter this problem, FSC has helped develop the implementation of thermosyphon systems, which essentially counteracts the effects that discontinuous permafrost has on a foundation or road structure. Thermosyphons are subgrade cooling systems that counter the thermal disturbances below heated structures thus ensuring the ground is consistently frozen year round. Their expertise in cold climate building has even led FSC to work on projects in countries such as Russia. FSC worked in cooperation with the Russian Federation Airport Authorities to design and build a large addition to the Yakutsk International Air Terminal Building. “In our industry, the lessons we have learned up here have become exportable technologies,” says Jerry. Cold Fact THE LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY BLENDS INTO ITS SURROUNDINGS BY USING ZINC PANELING. 9 AMENITIES AND SERVICES Airport Transportation: Yellowknife’s airport (YZF) is the main airport in the NWT and is classified as a Gateway Hub. It is operated by the Government of the NWT and is part of the National Airports System. Air traffic control services, Instrument Landing System (Category 1) and independent secondary surveillance radar, which are provided by NAV Canada, are also available at the airport. BY AIR: The airport has two asphalt runways. One is 7500’ x 150’ and the other is 5000’ x 150’. The most common types of aircraft flying in and out of Yellowknife are: Boeing 737, Dash 7/8, Hercules, Cessna, Twin Otter, F-28, ATR 42, CRJ 200, Skyvan, Pilateus, Dornier, Airbus 310 and helicopter. In an emergency, a Boeing 747 and other wide bodied aircraft can land at the airport. Yellowknife boasts 5 airlines. Canadian North and First Air are long time Northern carriers, Air Canada Jazz and Westjet are major connectors to all national and international flights. The following links provide information on local airlines and departure and arrival schedules: www.cdn-north.com www.dot.gov.nt.ca www.firstair.ca www.flyjazz.ca www.westjet.com REGIONAL AIRLINES: Small aircraft and helicopter services: Adlair Aviation: www.adlairaviation.com Air Tindi: www.airtindi.com Arctic Sunwest Charters: www.arcticsunwest.com Buffalo Airways: www.buffaloairways.com Great Slave Helicopters: www.greatslaveheli.com Matrix Helicopters: www.matrixhelicopters.com Summit Air: www.summitair.net AIR CARGO: Both Canadian North and First Air support heavy load cargo capabilities with their respective aircraft: Canadian North: Phone: 1 (800) 661-1505 www.canadiannorth.com/cargo/ First Air: Phone: 1 (800) 568-7497 www.firstair.ca/Cargo_Information/ 13 10 14 BY ROAD: Highway 1 - Mackenzie Highway This highway, the longest in the Northwest Territories, starts at the NWT/Alberta border and continues, for approximately 690 kilometres, to the community of Wrigley. Highway 2 - Hay River Highway This highway, the NWT’s shortest, connects the town of Hay River to Highway 1 at the community of Enterprise. The highway runs through Hay River, terminating on the southern shore of Great Slave Lake. Its total length is 48.6 kilometres, all of which is paved. Highway 3 - Yellowknife Highway This 341 kilometre paved highway connects to Highway 1 just south of the Mackenzie River ferry crossing and continues north, around Great Slave Lake, to Yellowknife. Highway 4 - Ingraham Trail This highway extends 70 kilometres east from Yellowknife and travels through numerous parks, campgrounds, hiking trails and day use areas. The first 29 kilometres are paved. The remaining 41 kilometres are gravel and treated for dust control. 15 Driving distances: Yellowknife to:........................................... KM Behchoko, NT.............................................108 Fort Providence, NT................................... 314 Enterprise, NT............................................. 445 High Level, AB............................................778 Edmonton, AB..........................................1508 Calgary, AB.............................................. 1789 Whitehorse, YT.........................................1899 Regina, SK................................................ 2188 Vancouver, BC........................................2595 Winnipeg, MB..........................................2853 Salt Lake City, UT......................................3277 Denver, CO............................................. 3848 Toronto, ON............................................. 4545 Chicago, IL...............................................4953 Dallas, TX................................................. 5069 Quebec City, PQ..................................... 5157 Fredericton, NB........................................5728 Charlottetown, PE...................................5984 Halifax, NS..................................................6119 St. John’s, NL.............................................7335 11 12 Quick Facts 1. Location: 62°27N, 114°22W. 2. Elevation: 206 metres at the airport. 3. Area: 136 square km. 4. Population 20,000. 5. 512 km south of the Arctic Circle. 6. No territorial sales tax. 7. The Deh Cho Bridge is under construction and expected completion is November 2010. The bridge will replace the Merv Hardy Ferry and Mackenzie River Ice Crossing, providing year-round highway access to Yellowknife. 8. Tourism attracts over 60,000 visitors annually, over 10,000 from Japan alone. 9. Broadband communications in every community in the NWT. 10.The City has 14 kilometres of groomed ski trails and endless back-country ski routes. 11.Annual visitation to the NWT in 2007-08, which includes both business and leisure travellers, was in the 80,000 range. 12.Yellowknife is impacted by more than 70% of all travellers (leisure and business) to the NWT. 13.Estimated annual visitor expenditures in the NWT in 2007-08 was $140 million. 14.An estimated 35,000 business travellers visited the NWT in 2007-08. 15.Average family income in Yellowknife in 2006: $124,200. 13 Restaurants: A&W Centre Square Mall. 4905 50th Ave. 669-7071 Jade Garden & YK Pizza 5309 50th Ave. 873-3339 Quiznos Subs 349 Old Airport Rd. 920-7827 KFC 4919 48th St. 873-2777 Red Apple Restaurant 4701 50th Ave. 873-2324 The Black Knight Pub 4910 49th St. 920-4041 L’Atitudes Restaurant Centre Square Mall, 4905 50th Ave. 920-7880 Robin’s Nest Restaurant Centre Square Mall. 5022-49th St. 867-873-3762 Boston Pizza 5102 48th St. 920-2000 Le Frolic Bistro Bar 5019 49th St. 669-9852 Sam’s Monkey Tree Pub 483 Range Lake Rd. 920-4914 Bullocks’ Bistro 3534 Weaver Dr. 873-3474 Leisure Café 5018 50th St. 873-6363 Subway 5103 50th St. 920-2727 Bruno’s Pizza 5124 53 St. 920-2130 L’Héritage Restaurant 5019 49th St. 873-9561 Surly Bob’s Sports Bar 4910 50th Ave. 873-5626 Canadian Pizza 5103 52nd St. 920-4499 Main Street Donair & Falafel Centre Square Mall, 4905 50th Ave. 766-3910 Sushi North 200 - 4910 - 50th Ave. 669-0001 A Taste of Saigon 4913 50th St. 873-9777 Coyote’s Bar & Grill 484 Range Lake Rd. 873-8818 Diamante Restaurant 483 Range Lake Rd. 920-2971 Domino’s Pizza 10 Stanton Plaza. 920-2020 Fuego International Restaurant 4915 50th St. 873-3750 Gold Range Bistro 5010 50th St. 873-4567 Hot Shots Pub & Grub 100 Borden Dr. Stanton Plaza. 669-7529 Coffee Shops: 14 Mark’s Family Restaurant 5102 50th Ave. 920-7878 Thornton’s Tapas Bar 5125-52nd Ave. (next to bowling alley). 669-9463 McDonald’s Restaurant 202 Old Airport Rd. 873-9555 Trader’s Grill Steakhouse 4825-49 Ave. 873-3531 Our Place Family Dining Room 50th Ave & 50th St. on the second floor. 920-2265 Vietnamese Noodle House 4609 50th Ave. 873-3399 Papa Jim’s Roadhouse Chateau Nova 3rd Floor. 669-0070 Yummy 5023 49th St. 920-7992 Pizza Hut 312 Old Airport Rd. 669-6700 Gourmet Cup Lower level YK Mall. #3 4802 50th Ave. 873-8782 Javaroma Gourmet Coffee Northwestel Tower & Centre Square Mall 873-3373 Tim Hortons 309 Old Airport Rd. 873-4999 16 17 Hospitality Anderson Thomson Tower 5300 49th St. (867) 873-5701 Capital Suites 100 5603 50th Ave. (867) 669-6400 www.capitalsuites.ca Chateau Nova 4401 50th Ave. 1 (877) 839-1236 www.novahotels.ca Discovery Inn 4701 50th Ave. (867) 873-4151 www.discoveryinn.ca The Explorer Hotel 4825 49th St. (867) 873-3531 www.explorerhotel.nt.ca Coast Fraser Tower Hotel 5303 52nd St. (867) 873-8700 www.coasthotels.com Northern Lites Motel 5115 50th St. (867) 873-6023 www.yellowknifehotel.com Nova Court 476 Range Lake Rd. (867) 873-6686 www.novahotels.ca. Arnica Inn 4115 50th Ave. (867) 873-8511 www.arnicainn.com Super 8 Motel 308 Old Airport Rd. 1 (800) 800-8000 www.super8yellowknife.com Yellowknife Inn 5010 49th St. 1 (800) 661-0580 www.yellowknifeinn.com Bars: Boston Pizza 5102 48th St. 920-2000 Harley’s Hard Rock Saloon 5018 50th Ave. 873-6789 Hot Shots Pub & Grub 100 Borden Dr., Stanton Plaza. 669-7529 Kingpin Bowling Centre 5125 52nd Ave. 920-2695 Le Frolic Bistro Bar 5019 49th St. 669-9852 Mackenzie Lounge 5010 49th St. 873-2601 Sam’s Monkey Tree Pub 483 Range Lake Rd. 920-4914 Surly Bob’s Sports Bar 4910 50th Ave. 873-5626 The Black Knight Pub 4910 49th St. 920-4041 Gold Range 5010 50th St. 873-4441 The Ravens’ Pub 5030 50th St. 669-9755 The Top Knight 4910 49th St. 920-4041 Trapline Lounge 4825 49th Ave. 873-3531 15 Scott Smith THE OTHER DESERT RACE It is called the other desert race, and it has put Yellowknife on the global map in the ultra-marathon racing world. The Rock and Ice Ultra Race is the dream come true for Scott Smith, who started the adventure race in 2006. Yellowknife has welcomed countless Rock and Ice Ultra athletes from over 12 countries in just a few short years. Scott now has race agents in several countries including: France, Korea, Japan, Italy, United Kingdom, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, United States and Russia. “IT’S DEFINITELY THE ARCTIC CLIMATE AND THE COLD HERE THAT ARE THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS. THESE PEOPLE RACE ACROSS DESERTS LIKE THE GOBI AND THE SAHARA, BUT OUR RACE ADDS A WHOLE NEW LEVEL OF COMPETITION FOR THEM BECAUSE OF THE ARCTIC CLIMATE.” The main event in the Rock and Ice Ultra is the Diamond Ultra. It is a grueling race that extends over six days and covers 225 kilometres of frozen terrain on ungroomed trails. 16 Racers train for months to withstand the brisk challenges in the Arctic climate. They practice running in snowshoes, skis and foot gear, and prepare their lungs for breathing in sub-zero temperatures. Racers must learn Arctic survival skills, like building a lean-to, and require the added strength to pull a ski “pulk” behind them that will hold all their emergency and survival gear. “It’s definitely the Arctic climate and the cold here that are the main attractions. These people race across deserts like the Gobi and the Sahara, but our race adds a whole new level of competition for them because of the Arctic climate,” says Scott. Scott insists that having the correct understanding of the climate is crucial when it comes to acquiring the proper gear. “Definitely No Goretex” is one of Scott’s main pieces of advice to the racers. While Goretex is great for humid climates, Yellowknife boasts a dry cold, and the last thing a racer wants is to lock in the sweat and moisture. All clothes need to be warm but breathable. Northface clothing is a main staple among racers, especially their “Flight Series” layering systems. Fischer Skis and Atlas Snowshoes are often the favourites when it comes to gearing up. Scott also advises racers to use 18 19 traditional aboriginal gear and protection when possible. Inuit parkas are not only light and breathable, but also windproof. Scott prefers Moosehide Steger mukluks for footwear. in diamond prizes welcome winners at the finish line. The diamonds are courtesy of top race sponsor BHP Billiton, owners of the Ekati Diamond Mine, Canada’s first diamond mine. Cold Fact AT -40º, SKIN CAN FREEZE IN FIVE TO TEN MINUTES. “They are very lightweight, good to -40°C, and fit right into my ski bindings,” says Scott. RACE CATEGORIES ON YOUR FEET Cold Foot Classic (55 kilometres, one day event) Foot and Snowshoe, Cross-Country Skis Scott has turned his career as a prospector and expediter walking thousands of miles on frozen tundra into a world-wide race phenomenon, where over $40,000 K-Rock Ultra (135 kilometre race over three days) Foot and Snowshoe, Cross-Country Skis Diamond Ultra (225 kilometre race over six days) Foot and Snowshoe, Cross-Country Skis 17 Anthony Foliot KINGDOM OF SNOW AND ICE Yellowknifers’ sheer joy of living in their rugged winter wonderland is perfectly represented in the bushy and often frozen silver beard and piercing blue eyes of one of their biggest local celebrities, Anthony ‘The SnowKing’ Foliot. Originally from Quebec, Anthony embodies the fun-loving renegade spirit of many people who call the North home. “...WHEN YOU LIVE UP HERE, YOU HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO EMBRACE THE -35ºC WINTERS!” Anthony (SnowKing) has lived here for over half of his life, but he won’t tell you how or why he came here. There’s a cool, collected mystique about the man who has turned Yellowknife’s most abundant renewable resources – snow and ice - into a cultural phenomenon. 18 After living in several smaller NWT communities like Fort Smith, Wrigley and Lutsel K’e, Anthony made his way to Yellowknife and set up shop in “the woodyard”, near Yellowknife Bay. A number of years ago, snow removal in Yellowknife meant mountainous piles in the woodyard area. Kids liked to turn snow mountains into snow fortresses. Joining in the fun, Anthony and some friends would go out to help the kids make their snow lairs bigger and better. Word spread quickly about this fantastic winter playground, until it finally snowballed into what is now a world-famous snow castle and month-long festival. November, when Great Slave Lake’s water has frozen around his houseboat, Anthony gets out his custom-made, four-foot long-hand saw and starts cutting out blocks of ice to make windows for one of the world’s largest snow castles. Constructing the castle each year is done the “old school” way: windows are measured by boot, not tape measure; and deals are made over a coffee and a handshake. Every year around the end of SnowKing and his merry band of 19 20 21 22 ‘snow-prentices’ get bigger and better with each snow castle. He officially opens the castle and month-long celebration of snow, ice and all things Arctic in March. Over the course of the month, the castle is a venue for people of all ages to enjoy – with its slides, beautifully-sculpted arches, ice café, and a new design every year. Dances, music videos, live bands, hockey tournaments, film festivals, weddings and much more have been held over the years on the castle grounds. If you visit the castle, don’t be surprised to meet a local, a tourist from Japan, a political dignitary and a Canadian celebrity – all at the same time. growing legion of Arctic enthusiasts. “People move up here from places where they used to run from their cars to their front doors because it was -10°C, but when you live up here, you have no choice but to embrace the -35°C winters!” says Anthony. The SnowKing has long declared Yellowknife’s winters are to be celebrated, and that extreme cold is something to be enjoyed. His chilling message has been heard by thousands of visitors and residents which THE SNOWCASTLE CELEBRATED has led to a ITS 14TH ANNIVERSARY IN 2009. Cold Fact 19 Grant Beck TESTING SNOWMOBILES ON DOG-SLED TRACKS Grant Beck and his healthy and happy Alaskan Huskies have been in the dog mushing and tourism business for over 25 years in Yellowknife. They have attracted many residents and tourists from all over the world, who are looking to try their hand at one of the oldest and most romantic forms of travel. With a team of 12 dogs all strapped in line and eager to run – the dog-sled can get moving up to 25 miles per hour! “THE COLD IS A TOURIST ATTRACTION HERE IN YELLOWKNIFE JUST AS MUCH AS ANYTHING ELSE. PEOPLE WANT TO BE ABLE TO GO BACK HOME TO SPAIN OR JAPAN OR WHEREVER AND BRAG THAT THEY SLEPT OUTSIDE, UNDER THE AURORA IN -45°C.” Grant Beck, owner of Beck’s Kennels Dog Sled Tours, has a tried and true formula for his tourism business in Yellowknife. “Cold weather equals clear skies, which equals the ability to see the northern lights, which equals lots of customers,” says Grant. 20 “The cold is a tourist attraction here in Yellowknife just as much as anything else. People want to be able to go back home to Spain or Japan or wherever and brag that they slept outside, under the aurora in -45°C.” And true to form, throughout the 2008 Christmas season when temperatures plummeted to a pretty consistent -40° C, Grant saw business pick up suddenly. “The people from Porsche who were here testing their vehicles, contacted us to find out what they could do while staying here in Yellowknife. Two doctors from Spain came to Yellowknife because they had never seen snow before and ended up going on an overnight tour for the experience and bragging rights that go with it!” says Grant. It is not only dogs and their drivers that have tested their abilities to withstand the bone-chilling temperatures of a Yellowknife winter. Grant’s dog-sled trails have also been used by Yamaha to test their 340 Trappers snowmobile, “…because of the diverse terrain, deep snow, extreme cold, hills and ice.” says Grant. Grant and his kennels have also been featured in over 14 television 26 23 shows from around the world, from the History Channel’s Ice Road Truckers to a remake of the game show “Thrill of a Lifetime” for a Japanese network. When Grant and his staff are not teaching tourists and residents how to drive a dog team or taking them on a guided tour under the northern lights, he is taking the reins himself and testing his skills as a world-class dog musher. Grant has won races in Spain, France, the United States and Canada. Grant and his team also compete in the annual Diavik 150 Canadian Championship Dog Derby that is held in March during the Caribou Carnival festivities. The race started in 1955, and teams from all over the world travel to Yellowknife to race in the prestigious event. Yellowknife’s Arctic climate is something that Grant has used to help him create a successful tourism operation. Like many others in our fair and chilly city, he is a leader at taking one of our greatest natural 25 24 resources – the extreme cold – and showing the rest of the world the benefits of living in a cold climate. Cold Fact DOG SLEDS TRAVEL 10-15 KM/H ON AVERAGE. 21 Don Morin UNDER THE LIGHTS Don, a Metis from Fort Resolution, NWT, started his career building log homes and eventually ended up selling them, pre-fabricated, to the Japanese. It was both his growing involvement within the local housing corporation and his connections to Japan that would ultimately carry Don from high-profile politician to tourism operator. “WE OUTFIT THEM (CUSTOMERS) WITH SOREL -100°C WINTER BOOTS AND CANADA GOOSE PARKAS AND THEY ARE GOOD TO GO. AS LONG AS PEOPLE ARE WARM IN THEIR GEAR, THEY ARE HAPPY AND HAPPY IS JUST WHERE WE WANT THEM.” Growing up in a fishing family known for helping fellow fishermen in need of food and shelter, Don acquired a taste for northern hospitality and tourism. 22 After winding down his political career in the late 1990s, Don and his wife, Gladys, researched northern tourism and the aurora borealis (northern lights). As Yellowknife is considered a top destination for aurora viewing, Don and his wife saw an opportunity to bring together aurora viewing and aboriginal culture. The couple opened Aurora Village in 2000. The village is about a 20-minute drive east of Yellowknife. Today, Aurora Village has several large teepees that sit close to the edge of a lake. Some of the teepees accommodate up to 70 people for traditional dancing shows and a place to warm up while waiting for the dancing show in the sky. To stay warm while watching the world’s most brilliant, natural light show, guests use the Aurora Kotapsu, which are 70 ‘cocoonlike’ heated seats. The specially designed heated seats allow guests to lean back, rotate 360 degrees, and comfortably take in the full glory of the northern lights in -40°C. Amazing aurora lights are not the only thing served at Aurora Village. The village has a classy but rustic dining hall, which has served dignitaries and thousands of tourists from around the world, and features a menu of homemade buffalo soup, arctic char, bannock and of course, hot chocolate. 30 27 29 28 All of these features have made Aurora Village one of the top destinations world-wide to view northern lights. Aurora Village employs about 20 full-time Japanese staff each season, which runs from August to September and November to April. The word about the fantastic light show in Yellowknife has spread to other countries like Korea, where Don has recently signed an exclusive deal with a tour company. Cold Fact THE NORTHERN LIGHTS ARE MOST ACTIVE THE HOUR BEFORE AND AFTER MIDNIGHT. In other words, business is only getting better. With no shortage of northern lights for his customers, it would seem that the cold is the only obstacle for convincing people to stand outside, at night, and wait for the show. But according to Don, that is not the case. “People love the cold when they come here! We outfit them with Sorel -100°C winter boots and Canada Goose Parkas and they are good to go. As long as people are warm in their gear they are happy, and happy is just where we want them.” 23 COLD FACTS Who Has Tested Here Why Yellowknife? 1. Bombardier Aerospace • Established service and supply sector. 2. Audi • Telecommunications, transportation, business and health-care centre of the Northwest Territories. 3. Ford 4. BMW 5. Airbus • Top-notch accommodations, amenities and visitor activities. 6. Raytheon 7. Gulfstream Aerospace • Easily accessible by road and air. 8. Bell Helicopter Textron 9. Porsche 10.Yamaha 11.Canadian Police Research Centre Cold Weather Champs As recorded by Environment Canada, Yellowknife is the number one City for: Extreme Cold MONTH 2003 2004 2005 2006 January - 39.9 C - 44.1 C - 42.9 C - 41.3 C February - 41.7 C - 39. 1 C - 43.7 C - 35.9 C March - 41.7 C - 43.3 C - 28.4 C - 28.5 C • Most hot and cold days April - 28.6 C - 26.0 C - 14.9 C -22.8 C May - 11.3 C - 20.0 C - 10.9 C - 2.3 C • Most heating degree-days June - 0.3 C 2.4 C 2.8 C 2.2 C July 8.8 C 7.2 C 6.6 C 9.8 C August 6.0 C 2.6 C 3.7 C 7.8 C • Most deep snow cover days (10 cm or more) • Extreme wind chill September -2.7 C - 4.5 C - 4.2 C 1.9 C October -15.6 C -17.2 C - 10.3 C -11.6 C November -33.9 C -36.0 C -25.4 C - 34.6 C December -31.4 C - 42.0 C - 28.9 C - 33.1 C Source: Environment Canada 24 • Coldest winter • Coldest spring • Most cold days (-20°C or less) • Longest snow cover season (days) • Most high wind chill days (-30ºC or less) • Driest winter air 31 KEY CONTACTS NWT Tourism www.spectacularnwt.com Northern Frontier Visitors Centre www.northernfrontier.com City Of Yellowknife www.yellowknife.ca NWT Chamber of Commerce www.nwtchamber.com Photo Credits Front Cover: Jiri Hermann 17. Jiri Hermann 1. John Schnell 18. Patrick Kane 2. John Schnell 19. Rhonda Kennedy 3. Seiji Iwaihara 20. Dave Brosha 4. Jiri Hermann 21. Jiri Hermann 5. Jiri Hermann 22. Martin Darku NWT/Nunavut Chamber of Mines www.miningnorth.com 6. Jiri Hermann 23. Kate Steadman 7. Erik Madsen 24. Jamie DeRoose NWT Construction Association www.nwtca.ca 8. Jiri Hermann 25. Jiri Hermann 9. Jiri Hermann 26. Patrick Kane Government of the Northwest Territories (GNWT) - Department of Industry, Tourism and Investment www.iti.gov.nt.ca 10. Jiri Hermann 27. Jan Phillips 11. Erik Madsen 28. Dave Brosha 12. Jiri Hermann 29. Dave Brosha 13. Jiri Hermann 30. Murao Nobuyasu 14. Jiri Hermann 31. Jiri Hermann 15. William Nalley Back Cover: Jiri Hermann Yellowknife Chamber of Commerce www.ykchamber.com GNWT Department of Transportation www.dot.gov.nt.ca NWT Bureau of Statistics www.stats.gov.nt.ca 16. Jiri Hermann 31 25 Cold: Put it to the test Diamonds were discovered in the NWT in 1991. Today, three diamond mines are operating 250 kilometres northeast of Yellowknife. The NWT has been propelled into third position in the league of the world’s diamond producers, producing 15% of the world’s diamonds by value, after Botswana and Russia. In 1999, the City Of Yellowknife trademarked itself as the Diamond Capital of North America. Yellowknife is home to a successful diamond cutting and polishing industry. 2010 WWW.YELLOWKNIFE.CA