GHOST TOWNS of the Upper Mojave Desert

Transcription

GHOSTTOWNS
oftheUpperMojaveDesert
VolumeI:SanBernardinoCounty
(Preliminarydraft:textonly)
byAlanHensherandLarryM.Vredenburgh
(c)1986
GhostTownsoftheUpperMojaveDesert
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Contents
FORWARD................................................................................................................................................................................3 INTRODUCTION.....................................................................................................................................................................4 BIBLIOGRAPHICALESSAY..............................................................................................................................................12 Glossary..................................................................................................................................................................................16 Mining,Farming,andLegalTerms.........................................................................................................................16 IVANPAH‐PIONEERMOJAVEDESERTTOWN......................................................................................................19 Notes...................................................................................................................................................................................28 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS..............................................................................................................................................29 SOURCES...........................................................................................................................................................................29 WATERMAN,CALICO,BISMARCK...............................................................................................................................31 OroGrandeandWaterman.......................................................................................................................................31 TheDiscoveryoftheCalicoMines..........................................................................................................................32 TheCamp..........................................................................................................................................................................32 TheTown..........................................................................................................................................................................33 Roads&Rails...................................................................................................................................................................36 RuggedIndividualists..................................................................................................................................................37 TheCalicoPrint..............................................................................................................................................................38 BismarckCamp...............................................................................................................................................................38 Mines&Mills...................................................................................................................................................................38 TownLife..........................................................................................................................................................................41 TheDecline......................................................................................................................................................................48 Daggett...............................................................................................................................................................................53 Calico:Rally&Collapse...............................................................................................................................................53 PROVIDENCE........................................................................................................................................................................56 MESCAL..................................................................................................................................................................................59 BAGDADandtheORANGEBLOSSOMMINE...........................................................................................................62 VANDERBILT.......................................................................................................................................................................65 MANVEL(BARNWELL)....................................................................................................................................................72 BORATEANDMARION....................................................................................................................................................76 MINNEOLA............................................................................................................................................................................78 DALE........................................................................................................................................................................................79 COLUMBIAMINE................................................................................................................................................................85 GhostTownsoftheUpperMojaveDesert
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COPPERCITY........................................................................................................................................................................86 COOLGARDIE........................................................................................................................................................................87 STEDMAN(CAMPROCHESTER)..................................................................................................................................88 ATOLIA...................................................................................................................................................................................90 THEVONTRIGGERCAMPS.............................................................................................................................................95 THECIMADISTRICT.........................................................................................................................................................97 StandardCamp,Toeglcity,CampDawson..........................................................................................................97 THECRACKERJACKDISTRICT......................................................................................................................................99 Crackerjack,Avawatz,andCopperCity(II)........................................................................................................99 SILVERLAKE......................................................................................................................................................................102 GOLDPARKANDPINONCAMPS...............................................................................................................................104 HART.....................................................................................................................................................................................105 THELANFAIRVALLEY...................................................................................................................................................110 Lanfair,Ledge(Maruba),Dunbar.........................................................................................................................110 BAXTER................................................................................................................................................................................114 KINGSTON...........................................................................................................................................................................118 CHUBBUCK..........................................................................................................................................................................120 CAMPSINBRIEF...............................................................................................................................................................122 INDEX....................................................................................................................................................................................126 GhostTownsoftheUpperMojaveDesert
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FORWARD
IfirstbecameacquaintedwithAlanHensherinearly1980shortlyafterheauthored“GhostTowns
oftheCentralMojave–AConciseGuide,”[1979].Atthistime,Iwasputtingthefinishingtouches
onmyportionsof“DesertFever”[1981].Unbeknownsttome,myworkcoveredsomeofthesame
groundashis.AftercontactingAlanforacopyofhispamphlet,webegantocollaborateonMojave
Desertmininghistoryprojects.
Alangenerouslylistedmeascoauthorofthis138pagevolume,butthisisreallyhiswork.He
madeaconcertedefforttogetitpublished,buttonoavail.UltimatelyhesimplysoldXeroxcopies
for$15each–whichjustcoveredthecostofreproductionandpostage.Thisvolumewassimplya
draft.Itlackedmapsandphotos.Idon’tknowhowmanycopieshemade,butIknowthe
UniversityofCaliforniapurchasedafew.
Afewyearslater,in1991,CaliforniaClassicsBooks[LosAngeles],publishedagreatlycondensed
version(63pages).Thisbooktitled“GhostTownsoftheMojaveDesert”wasfullofmapsand
photos.Ihadroundedupmanyofthephotosandagainhegenerouslygavemecredit.
Alan’smostrecentpublicationthatcoversaportionofthisregionistitled“Abandoned
SettlementsoftheEasternMojave.”Itwaspublishedin2007byAlanPatera(WesternPlaces:Lake
Oswego,OR).
SomuchhasbeenwrittenonthesubjectofMojaveDesertmininghistorysince1986bysomany
people(includingbothofus),thatinsomecasesconclusionsdrawninthisvolumeareeither
incompleteorevenwrong.Theinventionoftheinternethasnowmademanynewspapersand
periodicalsavailableonline,openingnewavenuesofresearch.Inlightoftheseadvancesa
completerevisionisprobablyinorder.
Never‐the‐less,IhavealwaysadmiredAlan’s1986,“GhostTownsoftheUpperMojaveDesert.”It
isfullofhumanintereststories.ItdoesnotreadlikeaStateMiningBureaureport,eventhoughit
isfulloffactsandfiguresaswell.Sometimearound2008Iscannedthisvolume,andafterrunning
opticalcharacterrecognition,Ibegantore‐formatit,withthegoal(withAlan’spermission)of
postingitontheinternet.IhopeyouwillenjoythismininghistoryoftheMojaveDesertasmuch
asIdo.
LarryM.Vredenburgh
February2013
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INTRODUCTION
THISWORKISTHEFIRSTVOLUMEofagreatlyenlargededitionofabookletpublishedin
1979:GhostTownsoftheCentralMojave,byAlanHensher.Herearethestoriesofabout35
vanishedtowns,largecamps,andcoloniesinSanBernardinoCounty'sdesertregion.(Asecond
volumewillcoverthedesertsofKernandLosAngelescounties.)Allthesettlementsdependedon
mines,farms,railroads,ortradefortheirsustenance.Withsomereluctance,wehaveleftout
settlementsthatweremeanttobetemporary,suchasmilitarypostsandmostconstruction
camps.
Althoughboomtownsonlyrarelygrewintocities,theywerestillmorethanephemeral,
limited‐purposesettlementsorwaystations.Wedefineatownhereasafairlypermanent
settlementthatprovidedgoodsandservicestoatradearea.Servicescouldincludecultureand
education,entertainmentandrecreation.
Ourresearchhasyieldedafewsurprises.First,thenumberofvanishedtownsandcampsis
astonishing‐‐severalhundredinSouthernCaliforniaalone.Then,too,thelargersettlements
turnedouttobefamilycommunities,notedmoreforromancethandrunkenbrawls.Bestofall,the
storiesofthesecommunitiesandtheirpeopleareavailabletoeveryone,inpublisheddiaries,
governmentdocuments,andoldnewspapersandmagazines.
Alas,thehistoriesofseveralsettlementshaveeludedus.Wehaveuncoveredonlyfragmentsof
information,forexample,onBush,achemical‐processingoperationnorthofDale;GrayMountain,
ahomesteadingsitenearAdelanto;andonastringofrailroadstops:Crucero,Nipton,Desert,
Danby,Siam,Klinefelter,andFenner.Mostofthesestationsbrieflysupportedpostofficesand
stores.
Suchobscurityisunderstandable:thecommunitiesoftheCaliforniadesertsrarelybecameas
welldevelopedasthoseofNevadaortheGoldRushcountry.Fewofthemeversupportedbanks,
churches,newspapers.Itwasnotuntilthelate1890'sandearly1900'sthatNeedles,forexample,
becamethefirsttownintheMojaveDeserttogetabank,highschool,smelter,andcity
government.·
Thoughunderdeveloped,thedesertswerenotnecessarilyalawlessfrontier.Votingprecincts
andcourttownshipswereestablishedinthedesertregionsasearlyastheCivilWar,nearMono
Lake,intheOwensValley,andintheCosoandSlateranges.Eachcourtdistrict,or“township,”was
authorizedtomaintaintwojusticesofthepeaceandtwoconstables.
Fortunately,countiesprovidedavarietyofbasicserviceseventotheremotestareas.Acting
throughpart‐timeofficials(oftenajusticeofthepeaceoraconstable),countieswouldsupervise
elections,assesspropertyandcollecttaxes,buildandmaintainroads,buildbranchjailsandtake
prisonerstotheseatsofgovernment,prosecuteanddefendsuspects,investigatesuspicious
deaths,inspecttreesfordisease,watchforfires,takecensusesofchildrenandcreateand
superviseschooldistricts,takecareofminingrecords(bythelate1890's),andestablishbranch
librariesandlightingdistricts(byWorldWarI.)
Schoolswerethemostcommonevidenceoflocalgovernment.Educationbegantoblossom
duringthelate1860's,becomingalmostasecularreligion.True,attendancevariedwidelyfrom
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districttodistrict,andschoolhousesrangedfromadobehutstostatelyedifices;butmost
importantdesertcommunitieshadschools.
Thespreadoffreelibraryservicewasevenmorerapid.Spurredbythestate,mostcounties
establishedbranchlibrariesineventheloneliestsites:inrailroaddepots,one‐roomschoolhouses,
countrystores.SanBernardinoandKerncountiesopeneddozensofbranchesduringWorldWarI.
II.
THESETTLEMENTofthedesertsandmountainsofSouthernCalifornia‐indeed,ofArizona
andotherterritories‐‐resultedinpartfromthewaningoftheGoldRush.Decliningyieldsfrom
placersandadepressionin1857ledtodiscoveriesallalongthesouthernSierraNevada,at
Millerton,WhiteRiver,Keyesville.(Wellestablishedbythelate1850's,KeyesvilleandWhiteRiver
wereprobablythelasttownstospringupduringtheGoldRush.)Thesestrikesinturnledtoa
seriesofoverlappingrushesintotheinteriorduringtheearly1860's:alongtheKernRiver,near
MonoLake,intheCosoandSlateranges,alongtheColoradoRiverandintheProvidence
Mountains,intheSanBernardinoMountains,alongtheSanGabrielRiver,andupanddownthe
OwensValley.Manyofthepioneers,suchasDennisandJohnSearles,theMcFarlanebrothers,and
SamuelA.Bishop,roamedfromoneexcitementtoanother.
TheimmediateimpetusforthediscoveriesintheMojavewastheseriesofgoldandcopper
rushestotheColoradoRiverintheearly1860's.OntheirwaytoArizona,prospectorsfoundrich
silveroreintheProvidenceMountainsandorganizedtheRockSpringsandMacedoniadistricts.
AsprotectionagainstIndians,thearmymaintainedafewmakeshiftpostsinthecentraland
easternMojaveforseveralyears;thepostatRockSpringevenhadapostoffice(probablythefirst
inthedesert)forafewmonthsin1866.
III.
BOOMTOWNSdidnotriseandfallontheirown.Thesettlementswereaffectedasmuchby
outsideforcesasbythedevelopmentoftheirrichmineraldepositsortheirfertilesoil.Politics,
businesscycles,technology,theweather‐‐allcouldmakeorbreakatownorcamp.
Consideranearlycombinationofpoliticsandbusiness.By1878or1879,asix‐year
depressionwasfinallyending.TherecoveryhasbeenattributedtoadroughtinEuropethat
increasedthedemandforAmericancrops,thepassageofaRepublican‐backedlaw(theSpecie
ResumptionAct)thatincreasedtheamountofgoldincirculation,and,mostofall,byarevivalin
railroadconstruction.Increasedrailroadbuilding,probablythegreatestcauseoftherecovery,in
turnstimulatedseveralstrategicindustriesintheEast:steelandcokeproduction,coalandiron
mining,andbanking.
Therecoveryaccompaniedtheriseofminingcampsthroughoutthedesertsofthestate:
Bodie,Lundy,MammothCity,Benton,Lookout(Modock),alljusteastoftheSierra,andProvidence
andCalico;intheMojave.Manyofthesedistrictswerepenetratedbyrailroads.Lineswerebuilt
fromLosAngelestoYumaandTexas,fromTexastoNeedlesandMojave,fromSanDiegoBayto
theSanBernardinoandDaggettareas,fromtheCarsonCityareatoOwensLake,andtotheforests
aroundBodieandthefarmlandsalongthecentralcoast.Bycrossingsomeofthemostforbidding
territoryintheUnitedStates,theselinesopeneduphugeregionstominingandfarmingandcut
thecostofshippingandproduction.Arailroadcouldeasilyextendthelifeofadyingcamp.
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Itseemsunlikely,however,thatthedepressedpriceofsilvercausedthedownfallofthe
earliestsilver‐miningcamps.First,thepricedeclinedonlygradually.Theslowdeclinegavelarge
miningoperatorstimetoadjust,usuallybycuttingwages,oftenbyintroducingmore‐efficient
methodsofmilling.Thatsomecampsroseupwhileothersfadedsuggeststhatthedepletionofthe
richest,mostaccessiblearecausedtheabandonmentofsomemines.
Happilyformany,politicscametotherescueofsilvermining.Inacompromisebetween
hard‐moneyandfree‐silverinterests,CongresspassedtheBlandAllisonActin1878.Themeasure
gaveanimportantboosttothesilverindustry.Aspriceswererising,oratleastremainedstable,
fromthelate1870'stothemid‐1880's,majordepositswerefoundatwhatwouldbecome
Waterman,Mescal,Calico,andLookout(Modock).
Thoughbarelyunderstoodeventhen,thedepressionofthe1870'sbroughtaboutprofound
changesinpoliticalthought.Theworkingclass,backedbymiddleclassDemocrats,struckbackat
theirsupposedenemies‐‐theChineseandcapitalistsandin1879pushedthroughasecond
constitutionforCalifornia.Eventhoughitcontainedmanyracistprovisions,thenewconstitution
atleastrecognizedtheneedofgovernmenttoregulateanincreasinglycomplexeconomy.To
fosterastablebankingindustry,forexample,thestatecreatedacommissiontoregulatebanks,
nottomentionacommissiontoregulaterailroads,bureaustoreportontheprogressofmining
andtheworkingclass,andasimplifiedjudicialsystem(superiorcourts).
Congress,too,hadsimilarideas.Itcreatedbureaustosurveymineralresources,regulate
railroadoperations,andreportontheconditionoflaborandtheeconomy.
Thefusionofpoliticsandtechnologyproducedsomeimpressiveresults.Despitethepresence
ofgoodsoilandabundantwater,thegrowthofSouthernCaliforniaremainedmodestuntilthe
SantaFéRailwaysystembuiltatranscontinentallinetoLosAngelesinthemid‐1880s.Then,after
yearsofagitation,theCalifornialegislaturepassedalaw(theWrightIrrigationDistrictAct)that
allowedclearlydefinedfarmingareastoorganizeirrigationdistrictsandsellbonds.Thenumber
ofdistricts‐‐andfarmingcolonies‐‐mushroomedinonlytwoorthreeyears.
Inanattempttoheadoffthefree‐silverforces,hard‐moneyRepublicanspushedthroughthe
ShermanSilverPurchaseActin1890.Thoughitwasaweakmeasure,thepriceofsilveragainshot
upbriefly.Calicoandothersilverdistrictsgainedafewmoreyearsoflife,ifnotprosperity.
AllthistinkeringstillhadnotadequatelystrengthenedtheeconomiesoftheUnitedStatesor
Europe.Speculationinagricultureandrailroads(early1893)ledtoasix‐yeardepressionthat
closedbanksfromNewYorktoRiverside,depressedthestockmarket,andcurtailedrailroad
constructionandlarge‐scalemining.Fearingthespreadofhardtimes,Congresshastilyrepealed
theShermanact.ExceptatPicacho,majormininginSouthernCaliforniawouldremaininthe
doldrumsfortwoorthreeyears.
Accompanyingtherecovery,whichbeganabout1896,wasthestartofimportantmining
projectsneartherisingcampsofBallarat,Randsburg,Garlock,Hedges,Picacho,pale,Amalie,and
Stedman.
Therecoverywasalsoaidedbytheintroductionofawidevarietyoftechnology,from
Linotypestooil‐burninglocomotives.Telephoneshadalreadyfoundfavoratsuchwidespread
miningcampsasFrenchCorral(NevadaCounty),Bennettville(Mono),andCalico(San
Bernardino).Bythelate1880's,electricitywasbeingusedtolighttheWaterloomillatDaggett,
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butelectricpowerwasnotwidelyadoptedintheindustryuntilBodie'schiefmillconvertedto
hydroelectricoperationsafewyearslater.Meanwhile,theuseofsmallinternal‐combustion
enginesbecameanecessityinthemillsofsuchremotedistrictsasDaleandGarlock.
Buttwootherdevelopmentstransformedmining.Firstcamethecyanideprocess.Broughtto
theUnitedStatesabout1895,cyanidation,astheprocessiscalled,recoversthetiniestparticlesof
goldandsilverbyleaching,ordissolving,themetaloutofthecrushedore.Themethodprovedto
besothorough,especiallyinworkingtailingsandlow‐gradeore,thatcyanidationbecamethe
mostimportantstepinmilling.(Thecyanideprocessstillcouldnotextractgoldfromsome
sulfide‐richores,whichhadtobeshippedtoasmelterandroasted.)
Whatthecyanideprocessdidformilling,theautomobiledidforprospectingandbuildingup
settlements.Thoughatfirstunreliable,autossoonprovedtobemoreeconomicalandfasterthan
teams.TheirusespreadtotheboomsinDeathValleyandNevadaby1905;withinfiveyears,autos
wouldbecomeanessentialfeatureofdesertlife.
Thedepressionsofthe19thcenturyoughttohavealertedBigBusinesstoitsfollies.ButBig
Businesslearnednothing.Speculationintherailroadandbankingindustriesledtoashortbut
painfuldepressionin1907‐1908.ThechiefminesatGoldfield,Nevada,andAtolia,California,
amongotherdistricts,hadtosuspendoperations;banksfromGoldfieldtoLosAngelesfailed;the
extensionofrailroadsintoArizona,Eureka,California,andtheOwensValleywasdelayed.
Disgusted,privateandgovernmentbankingofficialsjoinedtofurthertightenupregulations,close
poorlymanagedinstitutions,andcreatestrongerregulatoryassociations,notablytheFederal
ReserveSystem.
Infact,itwasgovernmentpoliciesthatledtothehomesteadingmovement.Themeasurethat
mostaffectedtheWestwastheEnlargedHomesteadAct.Passedin1909,thelawallowed
homesteaderstofileondouble‐sizedspreads:320·acres,orhalfasection.Theresponsewas
overwhelming:thenumberoffilingsreachedapeakin1910ashomesteadsweresettlednear
Barnwell(Manvel),Barstow,andMojave.
Meanwhile,thenewlyfoundedsettlementswerebecomingmorespecialized,morelikecamps
thantowns.Thehomesteadingcolonieswereatbestembryonictowns,whichusuallycontained
onlyacombinationstoreandpostoffice,aschool,andsometimesahotelandrailroaddepot.The
miningsettlementswerenotveryelaborate,either.Ratherthanletthesettlementsdevelopina
helter‐skelterfashion,thelargecompanieschosetofoundcampsthattheycouldeasilymanage.
Thecompanycampswereessentiallargeresidentialareasthatserveamineandmill.Thecamps
tendedtocontainaatleastonebunkhouse,aboardinghouse,acommissary,andsometimesa
schoolorpostoffice.Bythe1920's,however,companycampswerecomingtoresemblesmall
towns.Theymightincludeageneralstore;agasstation,arecreationhallorreadingroom,a
countylibrarybranch,andperhaps,asatTrona,ahighschoolorahospital.
IV.
PRODUCINGTHISWORKhastaughtusmanylessons.
First,wecametorealizethatitwouldnotbeenoughmerelytodescribeminingorfarming
operations.Thatapproachwouldonlyobscuretherichlivesofthesurroundingcommunities.
Instead,wehavetriedtoemphasizesocialandculturalhistory,anapproachborrowedfromFred
Holladay,awriterandeditorfortheCityofSanBernardinoHistoricalandPioneerSociety.We
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madeexceptionstothisprincipleifwefeltthatasettlementhadnotbeenadequatelytreated
elsewhereorifinformationonminingorfarmingoperationswasneededtofleshoutanotherwise
sketchyaccount.
Thestoriesofthemenandwomenwhobuiltupthesesettlementsmustawaitanother
volume.Itissodifficultandtimeconsumingtoferretoutcompletebiographicalinformationthat
wewouldnothavebeenabletofinishthiswork:
WEHAVEALSOBECOMEsomewhatunorthodoxinouruseofsources.Forexample,aftera
while,itbecameclearthatmanygovernmentdocumentswereincomplete.Bothstateandfederal
writerstendedtooverlooktheveryproductiveoperationsatIvanpah,Mescal,andearlyCalico.
Manystatistics,too,tendedtobeeitherinaccurateorirrelevant:censusareascoverednotsmall
townsbutvotingprecinctsorcourtdistricts,togiveoneexample.Happily,afewstatisticsdid
proveuseful:censusfiguresforwell‐definedsettlements,suchasGarlock(KernCounty),
populationestimatesfoundinvariousbusinessdirectories,enrollment,attendance,andschool‐
censusfigures,andtheyieldsofminesandfarms.
Onegroupofsourceslooksespeciallypromising:state,federal,andcountyarchives.Included
inthemareclaim‐locationnotices,courtrecords,agreements,deeds,articlesofincorporation,and
taxrolls.Theirrelativeinaccessibilityandlackoftimeallowedusonlytoscratchthesurface.For
now,wecanonlywonderaboutwhatthearchiveswillyield.
Inanycase,statisticsbythemselvestell‐little.Awiderangeofsuperbsecondarysourceshas
placedthematerialwe'veresearchedinperspective.
Inmanyways,thesesecondaryworks,includingmodernregionalhistories,studiesof
businesscycles,andvolumesoncityplanningandminingtechnology,havebecomenearlyas
importantasthefirsthandsourcesthemselves.
Allinall,however,newspapersandselectedtradejournalsturnedouttobeourbestsources.
Thepublicationsseemedtocontaineverything:statisticsonschools,mines,andfarms;eyewitness
accountsofsceneryandtowns;reminiscences;andcommentariesontradeandbusiness
conditions.
OtherhistoriansoftheWesthavemadethatsamediscovery.InhisColoradoMining:A
PhotographicHistory(1977),DuaneSmithcallsnewspapers“amandatorysourcethatmustnever
beslighted,sincethegoldofminingresearchistobefoundamongtheirpages.Miningcampand
townpapersprovidecontemporaryinsightsintoeveryphaseoflife....”AndtoJ.S.Holliday,the
authorofTheWorldRushedIn:TheCaliforniaGoldRushExperience(1981),Californiamining‐
camppapers“offeranhonest,oftenpoignantpictureofmining‐camplife”andare“arichsourceof
information.”Hollidaypredicts:“Futurediscoveriesofeyewitnessaccountswillnotbemadeby
chanceinatticsoroldnewspapersbutbyperseveringsearchthroughreelafterreelof
microfilmednewspapers.Therearenodigginsmorecertaintoproviderewardforhardwork.”
Amen.
CONSIDERINGTHERICHNESSofnewspapersandmagazines,ithasbeenallthemore
frustratingtofindgaps‐‐chasms,really‐‐intherecord.BadlybrokenfilesoftheSanBernardino
CountyandAntelopeValleypressexist:forexample,onlyascoreofissuesoftheCalicoPrint
survive.Then,too,thenationalminingmagazinestendedtooverlooksmalldistricts;national
farmingmagazinestendedtoignorenewsfromagriculturalcolonies.Becauseofsuchgaps,we
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havehadtoqualifymanyofourstatementsbyusingsuchtermsas“apparently”or“probably,”
oftentothepointofmonotony..
GAPSINTHERECORDmightnotmakemuchdifferenceifitwerenotforthetypeofworkthis
is.Eachchapterislikeasmallbook,individuallyresearchedinscattered,oftenrestrictedsources.
Then,too,wehavehadtomakesomesenseoutofthepiecesbywritingabibliographicalessay,
glossary,andintroduction.
ALAS.DON'TCOUNTONHELPfromsomespeciallibraries,museumsorhistoricalsocieties.
Thecollectionsofsomeofthemcanbeinaccessibleanddisorganized.Thoughwellmeaning,many
oftheseinstitutionshavespreadthemselvestoothin,unabletohelpanyonebutthemostcasual
visitor.AtUCLA,forexample,whilemanyearlyWesternnewspapersarekeptunrestrictedinthe
microformroom,similarfilesarekeptnearbyinthedepartmentofspecialcollections,undertight
restrictions.AtUCBerkeley,theBancroftandmainlibrariesmicrofilmandselltheirearlyWestern
newspapersseparately!InBlythe,thepubliclibraryrefusestofurnisheasilyreplaceablefilesof
microfilmednewspapersthroughinterlibraryloan.(Wewoundupbuyingthefileweneededfrom
acommercialagency.)UCBerkeleyandSanDiegoStatelibrarywillfurnishinterlibraryloan
materialstonon‐academicborrowersonlybysellingphotocopiesfor25centsapage;academic
borrowersgettheoriginalmaterials.TheCaliforniaHistoricalSocietywidelypublicizesits
activitiesandcollectionsbutthenwon'tanswerlettersaskingaboutitsholdingsofphotographs;
expectalong‐delayedformletterifyoureceiveanansweratall.TheHuntingtonlibrary,the
CaliforniaHistoricalSociety,andmostrecentlytheKernCountyMuseumcharge$40andmorefor
theprivilegeofpublishingtheirphotos‐‐besidestheusualfeeforprocessingandhandling.Andstill
theseorganizationsbegforpublicsupportandexpecttoremainexemptfrompayingtaxes.We
needn'twonder,then,whyworksonWesternhistoryconsistsooftenofsloppilyresearched,lurid
accountsofgunfightersandlosttreasure.
THEREISAWAYOUTofthisquagmire.Wefirstneedtorecognizethatthepeopleandevents
thatmakeupthisstate'shistoryarepartofalargerstory.Topreventwastedtimeandeffort,
historicalgroupsofadjacentcountiesandcitiesmightdobesttocoordinatetheiractivities.
Together,theycouldcompileregionalbibliographiesorsetup.regionalcollectionsofnewspapers
andbooks.“TheCaliforniaDivisionofMinesandGeology,forexample,istryingtocompilea
statewideinventoryofphotosonminingandconservation.
Wecanthinkofanespeciallyusefulcooperativeproject:ourstate'snewspapers,magazines,
andhistoricalcollectionsneedtobecompetentlyandthoroughlymicrofilmed(orrefilmed),
selectivelyindexed,andplacedineasilyaccessible,well‐equippedregionalcentersopenathours
convenienttothepublic.ThewritingsofsuchnotedgrassrootshistoriansasthelateL.Burr
BeldenoftheSanBernardinoSunshouldalsobeindexed.Ifmoneyandtimearelimited,atleast
California'sstatewidepublicationsshouldbeindexed,startingwithSanFrancisco'sAltaCalifornia,
theearlySacramentoUnion,andtheMining&ScientificPress.
Afeworganizationshavetakentheinitiative.TheArizonaandNevadahistoricalsocieties
haveindexedtheirchiefpioneernewspapers.DuringtheDepression,theCaliforniaDivisionof
Minesindexedthestate'sminingnewspublishedintheMining&ScientificPressandthe
Engineering&MiningJournal,thoughtheindexisunevenandremainsunpublished.TheSanDiego
Publiclibrary,withgenerouscommunitysupport,hasindexedmostoftheissuesofitsleading
newspapersandputtheworkonmicrofiche.
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Wehavealreadybenefitedfromawiderangeofwell‐managedlibrariesandarchives.One
authorlivesnearUCLA,wheremuchofthestackresearchwascarriedout;theotherlivesinthe
Sacramentoarea,neartheStateArchives,Statelibrary,CaliforniaDivisionofMinesandGeology's
photocollection,andtheU.S.BureauofLandManagement'scollectionofsurveyrecords.For
extraordinarycourtesyandaid,weowethankstothestaffsoftheSanBernardinoPubliclibrary;
theSmiley(city)Library,Redlands;theBeale(county)Library,Bakersfield;theLosAngeles
CountyMuseumofNaturalHistorylibrary;theCaliforniaStatelibraryandtheStateArchives,
Sacramento;theUniversityofNevadalibraries,Reno;thelibrariesofthesuperintendentsof
publicinstructionofSanBernardino,LosAngeles,andKerncounties;theSanBernardinoCounty
registrarofvoters;theadministrativeofficeoftheSanBernardinoCountyFreeLibrary;the
UniversityofArizonalibrary,Tucson;thesurveyrecordssectionoftheU.S.BureauofLand
Management,Sacramento;andtheSanBernardinoCountyMuseum,Redlands.
Andwehaveonlypraiseforotherlibrarieswehaveusedforrelatedresearch:thoseof
Riverside,Pomona,Ontario,SanDiego,theClaremontcolleges,UCIrvine,Modesto,Fresno,San
LuisObispo,PasoRobles,andUCBerkeley.
Butultimately,oursuccessdependednotoninstitutionsbutpeople.Wehavereceived
informationandencouragementfromArdaHaenszelandFredHolladayoftheCityofSan
BernardinoHistoricalandPioneerSociety;GermaineMoonandPatKeelingoftheMojaveRiver
MuseumAssociation,EddieLaytartandCarolPanlaquioftheMaturangoMuseum,Ridgecrest;
DennisCasebier,Norco;RichardLingenfelterofUCSanDiego;LarryBurgessoftheSmileyLibrary,
Redlands;WesChambersoftheBureauofLandManagement,Riverside;GaryKurutzofthe
CaliforniaStateLibrary,Sacramento;RonBakerandJimHoferoftheOntarioCityLibrary;Steven
WhitneyandBetteJochimsenoftheSanBernardinoPublicLibrary;Mrs.HelenTishkoffoftheSan
BernardinoCountyFreeLibrary;Mrs.BettyWebboftheofficeoftheSanBernardinoCounty
superintendentofpublicinstruction;E.L.McFarlane,Sedona,Arizona;andthelateRileyBembry,
ValleyWells.WilliamH.Clinton,theSanBernardinoCountyRegistrarofVoters,rescuedmany
heftyvolumesofvoterregistrations.AttheSanBernardinoCountyMuseum,BobReynoldsand
Mr.Smithallowedustocopyselectedphotos.Manyofourmostimportantphotoshavecomefrom
Steele'sPhotos,SanBernardino,andO.A.Russell'sagency,Yermo.MaryBudrewandBob
O'ConnellcopiedvaluablematerialintheStateLibraryandtheStateArchives.Darrin;Hooten,Los
Angeles,greatlyhelpeduswithresearch.NinaKleinbergandChrisAlford,LosAngeles,drewthe
maps.JackPeskinandAlanHensher'sfather,MorrisHensher,literallykeptthewheelsofourwork
moving.AndStephanieVredenburgh,Larry'swife,continuestobeagreatencouragement.
V.
ITISOURHOPEthatthestorieswe'vepresentedherewillenableyoutosetoffonyourown
voyagesofimagination.Foryouwillneedtouseyourimaginationwhenyouvisitthesitesoflong‐
gonetownsandcamps.Mostofthesiteshavebeenstripped‐‐byvandalsandbottlehunters,by
pioneersbuildingupstilllivingtownslikeBakerandYermo,bypropertyownerstryingtoreduce
theirtaxes,bygovernment‐encouragedscrapdealersduringWorldWarIandWorldWarII.The
ElRanchoMotelinBarstow,forexample,ismadeofoldtiessalvagedfromtheroadbedofthe
Tonopah&TidewaterRailroad.
Thechangeintravelconditionsduringthepasttwodecadeshasleftuswithmixedfeelings.
Reststops,interstatehighways,andpavedroadstoKelso,Cima,andotherbackcountryareas
havebeenbuilt.Butthosesameinterstatehighwayshavealsobypassed‐‐andhavenearlykilled‐‐
suchstrategicallyplacedhighwaytownsasAmboyandEssex.Thenewrouteshavewipedout
11
mostservicesinthe100‐milestretchbetweenLudlowandNeedles,andwhatremainsatLudlow
isscarcelyworthrecommending.Inlate1984,Amboystillsupportedaservicestation,cafe,motel,
postoffice,andevenaschool.Fortunately,duringthepasttwoyears,Niptonhasgrownfroma
hamletofthreepersonstoacentercontainingastore,agarageofferinglimitedrepairs,aself‐
servicelaundry,arestaurant‐bar,andaprivatecampground.
WHAT,THEN,ISLEFT?Plenty.Thedestructionofourhistoricalsiteshasalsoraisedthe
public'shistoricalconsciousness.Buildingsandrecordsalikehavebeenpreservedwithgreater
sensitivitythanwasthinkable20yearsago.Tosavorourheritage,visitmuseumsandsuchtourist
attractionsasCalico:lookovertheterrain;lookattheexhibits.Visitthebestbookstoresyoucan
findandbuytheirvolumesonlocalhistory,cityplanning,journalismandliterature,archaeology,
geology,andnaturalhistory.Visitacollegelibraryorlargepubliclibraryandporeoveritsold
mapsandfilesofmicrofilmednewspapers.Remember,yourancestorsreadthesesamemapsand
newspapers.Foryou,itwillprobablybeslow,hardgoingatfirst,butgivetheoldrecordsa
chance:youmayeventuallyfindyourselfabsorbedbythemforhoursatatime.Dinneryour
favoriteTVshows‐‐thesewillbecomeunimportant.Thenvisitthesitesofthetowns,mines,mills,
andrailroads,severaltimesifpossible.Takeinthevastnessofthedesert:thefeelofthewind,the
vividblueofthesky,thesofthuesofthehills.Atthehistoricalsites,youcanstillmakeoutthe
patternsofthestreets,foundations,andrailroadgrades.Fragmentsofbottlesanddishes,rusty
nailsandrustycanslittertownsites.Pleaseleavethem‐‐bottlehuntersandtreasurehuntershave
takentheirtoll.Youwillfindafewsurprises.ThefoundationoftheWatermanmillliesjustoutside
Barstow,clearlymarked.EveninbadlyvandalizedProvidence,stonewallsandafewnearlyintact
buildingslinethestreets.Alongtheroadisamassivemillfoundation,probablybuiltduringa
revivalintheearly1900's.Sizeuptheremains,anditwon'tbelongbeforeyouheartherumbleof
poundingstamps;smelltheblacksmokeofburningcreosote,andseethebuildingsriseoutofthe
earthlikemagic.
VI.
INONESENSE,PERHAPS,thesesettlementswerefailures.Forwhiletheylived,they
containedtheseedsoftheirowndecline:anever‐vanishingoratbestunreliablemeansofsupport,
suchasmineraldepositsorrainfall.Surprisingly,fewboomtownswereabletodevelopinto
ranchingortradingcenters.SanFrancisco'sinfluentialMining&ScientificPressinlate1887
lamented:“...Thetruthis,thebusinessofmining,asheretoforeconductedonthiscoast,has
consistedofaseriesofexcitements,eachattendedwiththeinevitableskurryandscramble,and
resultingusuallyinseriousdisappointmentandloss....
"GoldBluff,GoldLake,KernRiver,WhitePine,SnakeRiverandPanamintprovedallfiascosof
theworstkind;...theoutcomeofeventheComstockdiscoveryanditssubordinates...hasfallen
farshortofearlyexpectation.”
Theseekersafterbrighterfutureswouldhavescoffedatsuchintellectualizing.Fortheyknew
whytheyhadrushedtooneexcitementafteranother.Theboomshelpedsatisfyabasicimpulseto
seekadventure,tosettleandtobuild,asFranklinBuck,anargonautfromMaine,confidedwhile
puttingupahotelinMammothCity(MonoCounty)in1880:“...thereisanexcitementaboutthis,
buildingupnewtowns,thatIlikebetterthanploddingalongatsomesteadybusiness....”
OnlytheopportunitytobuyafarmintheNapaValleyheldBuckback,for“wearegetting
alonginlifeandwehadbettertakeacertaintyonhavingagoodlivingthantheuncertaintyof
makingmoney.IfIwereyearsyoungerIwouldtaketheminingcamps.”
‐‐AlanHensherandLarryVredenburgh,October,1985.
12
BIBLIOGRAPHICALESSAY
ALLSETTLEMENTSarecomposedofafewconstantelements:peopleandland,tonametwo
ofthemostobvious.
Publishedcensusreportstendedtousevotingprecinctsandcourttownshipsasthebasisof
population.Beginningin1880,unpublishedcensusschedulesdistinguishedbetweentownand
township(courtdistrict)limits.The1880,1900,1910schedulesprovedtobeespeciallyuseful.
Countybusinessdirectoriesandgazetteersusuallylistedpopulations,buttheirfiguresvariedso
muchthatwehaveusedthemwithcaution.Surprisingly,populationestimatesorcanvassesmade
byvisitorsorcorrespondentstendedtobelow.Occasionally,asinthecaseofCalico,wehaveused
annualschool‐censusreports,listsofregisteredvoters,andnewspaperordirectoryaccountsto
estimatepopulations.
Ineventheremotestdistricts,citizensremainedintenselyinterestedinpoliticsand
government.In1866,thestatebeganrequiringeachcountytocompilelistsofregisteredvoters;
theywerecalled“greatregisters.”Thepublishedlists,called“indexes,”tendedtolisteligible
votersbycourttownshipandvotingprecinct.Theadoptionofwomen'ssuffragein1911boosted
thesizesofthelistsconsiderably.Afewcounties,suchasInyo,stillpublishgreatregisters.
Thoughlessaccessible,anevenbetterrecordoflifearetheannualsummariesofschool‐
districtactivitiescompiledbyeachcounty.Thesummaries,allunpublished,wereentitled“Annual
ReportontheConditionofCommon[Public]Schools.”Until1911,eachdistrictwasrequiredby
statelawtotakeacensusofchildrenthroughtheageof15(laterthrough17).
Newspapersoftenprintedreportsofschoolactivities,butseveralhistoriesofcountyschool
departmentsofferimportantinsightsintocommunitylife:GeraldA.Smith'sAHistoryofthe
CountySchoolAdministrationofSanBernardinoCounty(SanBernardino,1954)andEdmundR.
Harrington'sAHistoryoftheOrganizationandAdministrationofKernCountySchools(Ph.D.
dissertation,UniversityofSouthernCalifornia,1963).AnexcerptofHarrington'sworkwas
publishedbytheKernCountyHistoricalSocietyasAHistoryoftheKernCountySuperintendentof
Schools(Bakersfield,1969).
Oneofthefirstinstitutionssoughtbyacommunitywasapostoffice.Thefirstdistillationof
officialrecordswasmadebyWalterN.Frickstad,ACenturyofCaliforniaPostOffices,1848to1955
(Oakland,1955).UpdatingFrickstad'svolumeisH.A.Salley'sHistoryofCaliforniaPostOffices,
1849‐1976(LaMesa,1977).Salleyaddedimportantdetailsbut,alas,madeafewerrorsofhis
own.
Mostofthemajorminingandfarmingsettlementswereservedbyarailroad.Intwomasterly
volumes,DavidMyrickdescribednotonlythehistoriesofthelinesbutalsothetownstheyserved:
RailroadsofNevadaandEasternCalifornia(Berkeley,1962and1963).Theseworksblend
informativetext,exquisitephotos,andclearmapstoestablishthemselvesasmodernclassics.A
bibliographywastoappearinasupplementalvolume,which,unhappily,nevercameout.
Gazetteersandregionalbusinessdirectoriesaretantalizingsources,buttheyare
exceptionallyscarceandcanaboundwithminorerrors.Theseworkspurportedtocontainentries
oneverypostofficeorsettlementinagivenarea,sometimesacounty,sometimestheentire
PacificCoast.Weconsultedgazetteersfrom1870to1904.Foragoodlistofthesedirectories,
13
consultMargaretMillerRocq,CaliforniaLocalHistory:ABibliographyandUnionListofLibrary
Holdings(2nded.,Stanford,1970).
Moreaccessible,moreaccurate,andperhapsmoreusefulisaseriesofwater‐supplypapers
issuedbytheUnitedStatesGeologicalSurveyearlyinthis“century:WalterC.Mendenhall,Some
DesertWateringPlacesinSoutheasternCaliforniaandSouthwesternNevada(U.S.G.S.Water‐Supply
Paper224,1909);JohnS.Brown,RoutestoDesertWateringPlacesintheSaltonSeaRegion(WSP
490‐A,1921),whichalsocoverstheTwentyninePalms,Dale,andBlytheareas;DavidG.
Thompson,RoutestoDesertWateringPlacesintheMohaveDesertRegion,California(WSP490‐B,
1921).ThesetwoworkswereupdatedandenlargedasDavidThompson'sMohaveDesertRegion,
California:AGeographic,Geologic,andHydrologicReconnaissance(WSP578,1929),aclassicon
thedeserteconomy.
Twocomprehensive,luciddirectoriescovergold‐miningareaswell:WilliamB.Clark'sGold
DistrictsofCalifornia(CaliforniaDivisionofMinesandGeology,Bulletin193,1969)andErwin
Gudde'sCaliforniaGoldCamps(Berkeley,1975),whichconciselyprofilesthousandsofcamps,
towns,waysidestations,andtradingcenters.Usefulforindividualdistricts,notablyRandsburg
andSoledadMountain(Mojave),isBennieW.TroxelandPaulK.Morton,MinesandMineral
ResourcesofKernCounty,California(CaliforniaDivisionofMinesandGeology,CountyReport1.
San“Francisco).Allthreecontainextensivebibliographies.
TheonlycomprehensivehistoryofminingintheMojaveDesertisLarryVredenburgh,Gary
Shumway,andRussellHartill,DesertFever:AnOverviewofMiningintheCaliforniaDesert(Canoga
Park,1981).
Thevariousmethodsofminingandmillingcanbeconfusingtolaymen.Despiteasomewhat
haughtytone,OtisE.Young,Jr.,WesternMining(Norman,Okla.,1970),whichtracesdevelopments
upto1893,thoroughlydescribesthedevelopmentofthestampmill,chlorination,cyanidation,
andotherprocesses.WorkingconditionsarewelldescribedinbothYoung'sbookandinRichard
Lingenfelter'sTheHardrockMiners:AHistoryoftheMiningLaborMovementintheAmericanwest,
1863‐1893(Berkeley,1974).
TheWesternFederationofMinersinfluencedminingfarmorethanotherpioneertrade
unions.Thefederation'shistoryissympatheticallybutfairlytreatedbyJohnErvinBrinley,Jr.,
“TheWesternFederationofMiners”(Ph.D.dissertation,UniversityofUtah;1972).Itsextensive
listsofunionsarekeyedtomapsofminingdistricts.Theriseandfallofmanyimportantcamps
canbetracedinthefluctuatingmembershipsofthelocals,asrecordedintheannualreportsofthe
federation.Mostofthedesert'sunionsarelistedintheWesternFederationofMiners,Official
ProceedingsoftheSeventeenthAnnualConventionfor1909(Denver).TheCaliforniaBureauof
LaborStatisticscompiledwageratesinitsReport,12(1905‐1906),14(1909‐1910),15(1911‐
1912),and17(1915‐1916).
Informationonfarmingsettlementsisrelativelysparse.Forirrigationdistrictsorganized
undertheWrightAct,aprogressreportappearedintheRuralCalifornian(LosAngeles),1891,
especiallypp,509and525.Severalgovernmentwritersinterpretedtheimportanceofthe
districts:thewater‐supplypapersofHarryJohnson(No.278)andDavidThompson(No.578),
bothalreadycited,andbyFrankAdamsinIrrigationDistrictsinCalifornia,1887‐1915(California
DepartmentofEngineering,Bulletin2,1916).
14
Militaryoutpostsareaformofsettlementoveroverlooked.RobertW.Frazer'sFortsofthe
West(Norman,Okla.,1965)presentsthumbnailsketchesofeachmilitaryoutpostintheWestup
to1898.SoonaftertheCivilWar,ayoungbrigadiergeneralinspectedthefortsoftheWest,
includingthoseoftheMojave:JamesF.Rusling,TheGreatWestandPacificCoast(NewYork,
1877).Hisdescriptionsarebriefandpungent.Amodernsurvey,withothermaterialadded,is
DennisC.Casebier,ReopeningtheMojaveRoad:APersonalNarrative(Norco,1983).
Happily,afewgoodregionalworksilluminatethelargerscene.Thedevelopmentofthesouthern
SierraandwesternMojaveareablyrecountedbyWilliamHarlandBoydinACaliforniaMiddle
Border:TheKernRiverCountry,1772‐1880(Richardson,Texas,1972).Itsmapsareespecially
useful.PatriciaJerniganKeeling'sOnceUponaDesert(Barstow,1976)isavaluableencyclopedic
historyofthecentralMojave.RichardLingenfelter'sSteamboatsontheColoradoRiver,1852‐1916
(Tucson,1978)isasmuchahistoryofminingonthedesertasontransportationontheriver.
FrankLove'sMiningCampsandGhostTowns:AHistoryofMininginArizonaandCaliforniaAlong
theLowerColorado(LosAngeles,1974)isthoroughlyresearched,yetitschapterstendtolose
coherence,thephotosaremuddy,andamuch‐neededmapislacking.Legendaryistheseriesof
articlesbyL.BurrBelden.Belden,ahistorianandreporterfortheSanBernardinoSun,wrote
weeklyaccountsonthehistoryofthevariousCaliforniasfrom1951through1967.Thoughthe
qualityofhisresearchvaried,therangeofhissubjectsisstillimpressive.Belden'shistoriesof
varioussettlements,bothlivinganddead,isessentialforamodernresearcher.
Nocomprehensiveaccountoftheearlynationalandregionalbusinesscyclesseemstohave
beenwritten.IraCross'four‐volumestudy,FinancinganEmpire:HistoryofBankinginCalifornia
(Chicago,1927)isturgidlywrittenyetmanagestocombineannalsofbankingwithanalysesof
depressionsandrecoveries.Amuch‐overlookedworkisJohnP.Young,SanFrancisco:AHistoryof
thePacificCoastMetropolis(SanFrancisco,1912).Young,anewspapereditor,blendednarrative
accountswiththoughtfulinterpretationsofculturallife,thepress,andtheeconomy.Theeffectsof
thedepressionsofthe1870'sonSouthernCaliforniawerebrieflyrecalledbyboom‐town
publisherJamesJ.AyersinGoldandSunshine(Boston,1922).Hisrecollectionsagreewithreports
intheSanBernardinoandColtonnewspapers.
Stateandfederalminingreportsareatemptingsourceofmininghistory.Buttheearly
volumesoftencontainerroneous,outdatedinformation.Inexplicably,thecompilersoften
overlookedCalifornia'sdeserts.
Periodicalsbecamethechiefsourceforthiswork.TheMining&ScientificPress,published
weeklyinSanFranciscofrom1860to1922,stoodabovealltradejournals‐‐mining,farming,
railroading.Thisjournalcarriedthelateststockandmetalprices,extensivenewssummaries,and
awidevarietyoffeaturesandeditorials.Alas,afterabout1900,themagazinetendedtooverlook
minordistricts.AndoccasionalarticlesweregleanedfromtheMining&ScientificPress’sworthy
rivals:theEngineering&MiningJournal(NewYork)andtheMiningWorld(Chicago).
Denver,SaltLakeCity,LosAngelesandotherminingcenterssupportedawiderangeof
miningpublicationsofferingone‐of‐a‐kindcoverage.Thoughnotaswelleditedororganizedasthe
nationalminingjournals,theLosAngeles(American)MiningReviewandSaltLakeMiningReview
hadatalentforseekingoutnewsandfeaturesfromsomeofthemostobscuredistrictsinthe
Southwest.Manyoftheirphotosareunusuallyclearandcrisp.
Newspapersareessentialtounderstandingatown'ssocialandeconomiclife.TheAlta
California,aseven‐dayblanketsheet,reportedonboomsasfarawayasBritishColumbiaand
15
Idaho;itscorrespondentswereonthesceneduringtherushestotheOwensValley,theColorado
River,andthecentralMojave.ClosertotheactivityweretheLosAngelesStarandNews,Visalia
Delta,andSanBernardinoGuardian;allwereneatlyprintedtabloidsfilledwithperceptive
correspondence.
16
Glossary
Mining,Farming,andLegalTerms
Adit:strictlyspeaking,ahorizontalpassageintotheearthwithonlyoneopening;atunnel(strictly
speaking)isapassagewithtwoopenings,thatis,cutthroughahill.Ongeologicalmaps,aditsand
tunnelsaremarkedwithaforkedsymbol.
Amalgamation:processbywhichmercuryisaddedtooretoseparateoutgoldorsilver.
Arrastre(orarrastra):simpleplantinwhichheavystoneisdraggedaroundenclosedrockfloorto
crushore.
Ballmill:aplantinwhichironorsteelballsinarevolvingdrumcrushore;variationoftubemill
andsuccessortostampmill.
Bond:toleaseamine,inwhichthelease‐holderleavesadepositwiththeowner.
Calcining:processofroastingnonmetallicminerals,suchasboratesorlimestone.
Chileanmill:ore‐crushingplantusingheavyverticalwheelsrunninginacircularenclosure;
variationofanarrastreorgristmill.
Chloriding:actofleasingpartofmine,forwhichownerreceivesroyaltybasedonvalueofore
removed;alsocalledtributing.
Chlorination:methodofextractingsilver(sometimesgold)byprocessingorewithheated
chlorine‐basedchemicals(suchassalt);anauxiliaryprocess.
Croppings:earlytermforthesurfaceexposureofavein;nowcalledoutcrop.
Crucible:heat‐resistantclayvesselusedformeltingoresandchemicalsinassaying.
Custommill:ore‐processingplantdesignedtoservesmall‐scaleminers,oftenchloriders.
Cyanidation:processofextractinggoldorsilverfromorestreatedwithsodiumorcalcium
cyanidesolution;oftenusedwithleaching.
Drift:horizontalpassageextendingfromshaft;variouselevationsofdriftsarecalledlevels.
Dryfarming:cultivationinwhichmoistureisscientificallyconserved;alsocalleddry‐land
farming.
Drywasher:machineinwhichgolddustisblownfreeofsandandgravel.
Dump:pileofwasterockleftfrommining;oftenconfusedwithtailings.
Enlarged‐HomesteadAct:federallaw(1909)permittinghomesteaderstoclaim320acres;ledto
lastboominhomesteading.
17
Freegold:appliedtoorecontaininguncombinedgold;thatis,easytoprocess.
Giantpowder:earlytermfordynamite.
Grubstake:loanofsupplies,food,ormoneytoprospectorinexchangeforshareindiscoveries.
Headframe:derrick‐likestructurethatsupportspulleyandcableaboveshaft;alsocalledgallows
frame.
High‐grading:theftofrichore.
Homesteading:officiallyclaimingandsettlingonpublicland;homesteadingdoesnotnecessarily
leadtoownership.
Huntingtonmill:brandofore‐crushingplantusinghugerollers,likelaundrywringer.
Hydraulicmining:methodofextractioninwhichpowerfuljetofwaterwashesgoldbearingearth
(asfromembankment)intosluices.
Jawcrusher:devicetobreakapartrocksorlargepiecesofore.
Lanemill:popularbrandofmodernizedChileanmill.
Leaching:processingmethodbywhichparticlesofmetal,usuallygold,aredissolvedoutoflow‐
gradeore,oftenwithcyanidesolution.
Lead,ledge,lode:fissurescontainingore,incontrasttoplacer;looselyspeaking,avein.
Location:actoffilingclaim(notmerelyfindingdeposit).
Ore:mixtureofrockandvaluablemineralorelement;mineralisacombinationofelements
(borates,salt)orsingleelement(nativecopper).Rockisalsoacolloquialtermforore.
Patent:transferofownershipofpubliclandtoindividual,suchasmineownerorhomesteader.
Placer:depositofsandorgravelcontainingparticlesofmetal,suchasgoldortin,orgemstones..
Quicksilver:oldertermformercury.
Raiseandwinze:upwardanddownwardpassagescutfromdrift.
ReductionWorks:planttoprocessore,usuallyamill,sometimesasmelter.Refinery:plantto
purifymetalsfoundinbullion.
Shaft:adownwardpassageintotheearth,usuallyvertical,sometimesinclined.Ongeological
maps,shaftsaremarkedwithahalf‐enclosedsquare.
Smelter:processingplantusingchemicalsandgreatheattoseparatemetalsoutofore.
18
Stampmill:processingplantinwhichoreisgroundtodustwithhuge,iron‐coveredpestles
(stamps);alsocalledquartzmill.Unitholdingstamps,usuallyfive,isbattery.
Stope:excavatedpartofamine.
Sulpherets:oldertermforsulphides(iron,lead,etc.),whichmakegoldmoredifficulttoremove
fromore.
Tailings:pileofcrushedoreleftfrommilling;oftencontainsconsiderablemetal.
Whim:animal‐orsteam‐poweredcapstan,usedasahoist.
WrightAct:Californialaw(1887)thatpermittedformationofirrigationdistricts;stimulatedland
boom.
19
IVANPAH‐PIONEERMOJAVEDESERTTOWN
(Reprintedfrom:AlanHensher,“Ivanpah–PioneerMojaveDesertTown”,HeritageTales[Cityof
SanBernardinoHistoricalandPioneersociety,Annual7],1984,pp.36‐58.)
IFYOUhaveneverheardoftheghosttownofIvanpah,youarenotalone.Thoughitwasthe
firsttowntobeestablishedintheMojaveDesert,Ivanpahwaslittle‐knowninitsownday,atleast
outsideSouthernCalifornia.Morethanacenturyago,aColtoneditorwonderedwhyinvestors
couldnot“seeagoldmineofanykindunlessitwaslocatedinNevada,orArizona,orsomeplace
veryfaroffandverydifficultofaccess....”AndayoungSanBernardinopublishercomplainedthat
aminingreportissuedbytheUnitedStatesMintwas“veryincompleteandaboundswitherrors...
.NomentionismadeofourmostproductiveminesintheIvanpahDistrict....”1
YetIvanpahservedasanoutpostofcivilizationfor30years.Whereelse,atleastduringthe
1870's,couldatravelerintheMojaveescapethebitingwindstogetadrinkofpurewater,ora
mealforhimselfandhayforhishorse,playcards,smokeapipe,talk,mailapostcardhome,havea
nightcap,.Andclimbintoawarm,comfortablebed?Ivanpahofferedallthis‐andmore.
ThediscovererofrichesaroundIvanpahhasneverbeenfullyestablished.Butitrequireda
groupofSanFranciscoinvestorsandadventurerstogivethearealife.Thisgroup,organizedas
ThePiuteCompanyofCaliforniaandNevadainearly1869,sentoutanexpeditiontoinvestigate
promisingcopperlodesintheClarke(soonshortenedtoClark)MountainRange,afewmileswest
oftheNevadaline.When'thecompanyfounddepositsofsilver,itbroughtinsupplies,shippedout
someoreforassay,andbeganpublicizingtheClarkandadjacentYellowPinedistricts.
ThesettingmadetheClarkdistrictmorethanjust“averyEIDorado”formetals.Several
strikeshadbeenmademorethanamileabovesealevel;ClarkMountain,thehighestpeakinthe
range,rosenearly8,000feet.Fromtheseheights,coolbreezeswouldmoderatetemperaturesthat
sometimesreached110degreesF.intheshade.Snow,summerrains,andspringswouldwater
scatteredstrandsofjuniper,pinion(oftencallednutpine),yucca,andJoshuatrees.2
IncorporatedinJune,1870,thePiuteCompanywaswellequippedtodevelopthedistrict.For
onething,ithadplentyofmoney.Then,too,JohnMoss,atrustee,wasfamedasaroving
prospector;TitusF.Cronise,thesecretaryofthefirm,hadwrittenapopularencyclopediaofthe
state'sresources;andJ.W.Crossman,thesuperintendentatIvanpah,wasanup‐and‐comingmine
managerandwriter.
Thecompanyplannedfourtownsites.CaveCitywastobenearthemaingroupofmineson
Mineral(orAlaska)Hill,onthenorthsideoftherange.Pachocha(variouslyspelled)wasagreen
spotataspringonthewestside.GoodSpring,justovertheNevadaline,wasintheYellowPine
district.Ivanpah,a160acresite,waslaidoutin“quiteaprettylocation”inawashordrawonthe
southeastslope,severalmilesfromthemines,becauseoftheproximityofanabundantspring.
RoughlytranslatedfromanIndiandialect,thenamemeans“clearwater.”OnlyIvanpahandlater
GoodSpring(renamedGoodsprings)becamesettlements.3
Thecountybuzzedwithexcitement.Despitetheisolationandheat,300minershadarrivedin
thedistrictbythesummerof1870,andotherswere“flockingthither”fromWhitePineand
WashoedistrictsinNevada,fromotherpartsofCalifornia,andelsewhere.InSeptember,the
districtbeganshippingitsfirstare,toSanBernardino,nearly200milesaway.Theleading
20
merchantswouldthenforwardtheoretoSanFrancisco,atfirstthroughAnaheimLanding(near
thepresentHuntingtonBeach),laterthroughSanPedro.InSanBernardino,theweeklyGuardian
notedthatquite“abrisktradeisspringingupinourtownwiththesedistricts....”Though
freightingorewasexpensivefromthestart,about$70aton,“itwillpay,ofcourse,tobringup
theserichores,”whichwerevaluedat$170to$2,500aton.Itwasdoubtedwhether“thefamous
WhitePineminesintheirpalmiestdays,haveshownricherprospectsandreturns,formore
minerswerearriving,theirfacesbrightwithexpectation,andhopesashighaswaswonttobein
thegoldenharvesttimesof1849....”4
By1871,Ivanpahhadbecomeanestablishedtradecenterfora35x35miledistrictspilling
overintoNevada.AtravelerinAugustcameacross15buildings,includingahotel,twostores,the
officeandheadquartersofthePiuteCompany,andsmallhouses,allofthembuiltofadobe,
coveredwith
Goodshakeroofs,and“ontheaveragelargerthanwouldbeexpectedinsoyoungaplace....”
Threeofthebuildingsmeasured40x60feet,includingthehotel,thelargeststructureintown.
Eightorninemilesnorthwestoftown,throughasteepcanyonandoveradivide,werethe
mines,whichwerescatteredaboutMineral(Alaska)Hill.Emergingastheoutstandingproperties
weretheHite&Chatfieldclaim(laterrenamedtheLizzieBullock)andtheMonitorandBeatrice,
ownedbytheMcFarlanebrothers‐Tom,Andrew,John,andWilliam.Theminesonthehill
producedoreworth$700to$1,700aton,mainlyinsilver.Sixmilessouthwestoftownwasthe
CopperWorldmine,whichwouldremainidleforthreedecades.Severalgroupswereessentialto
thedistrict'searlydevelopment:about20Indianminers;severalMexicans.whoworkedtheoreof
othersintheirarrastras(circularstonemills);andsuchpioneersoftheKernRiverrushofthe
1860sasmineoperatorDennisSearles,merchantW.A.MarshandtheMcFarlanes.
TheMcFarlanessoonsupplantedthePiuteCompanyastheleadingoperatorsofthedistrict.
ThoughtheirBeatriceNo.2claimwasequippedwithonlyahandwindlassin1871,John
McFarlane's“sanctumsanctorum”‐averylargetent‐containedhisoffice,sleepingberths,and
mineralcabinets,whichheldmorethan200specimens.Onevisitorwasdelightedtoeata“plain
wellcooked,substantial”lunchservedonatablespreadbetweentwopinetreesandthenindulge
in“asocialsmoke.”If“youthinkbeansarenotgood,youjusttakeatriptoIvanpah,walkeightor
tenmilesoverthehillsandyouwillconcludethatyoudidnotknowwhatisgood....“5
Mineoperatorshadtoperseveretosucceed.Ivanpahwasprobablythemostremote
settlementinthestate,lying70milesfromFortMohave,ontheColoradoRiver,about260miles
fromLosAngeles,andmorethan630milesfromSanFrancisco(throughSanPedro).Despitethe
lengthyhaultoSanFrancisco,“handsomeprofitsareallowed.”Norwereminersfazedbyhavingto
paytheMexicans$125atontohavetheiroreworked,fortheycouldstillearnupto$80aton.The
IndianssuppliedtheminesonMineralMillwithwaterbroughtfourtosixmilesbypacktrainfrom
IvanpahSpring.6
Accordingly,onlytherichestgradesofore–“shippingore”‐wouldpaytoshiptoSan
Francisco.Atonesmallproducer,abundant“low‐grade”ore,worth$150to$200aton,hadtobe
setasideonthedump,awaitingtheconstructionofamillorrailroad.AttheHite&Chatfield
property(LizzieBullock),thechargesforpreparingandshippingoreworth$1,458atontotaled
$435.Still,Hite&Chatfieldearneda$20,000profitin1872.7
Allofthisactivityin1872–thesteadystreamofminers,mail,freight,andore‐madeSan
Bernardino“quitelively.”Brunn&Roe,SanBernardinomerchantsandorebuyers,once
21
forwarded28,000poundstoSanFrancisco.Withthecropsharvested,prairieschooners“loaded
withtherewardofourhardyfarmer”andsuppliesfromthetown'swell‐stockedmerchantswere
goingout(October)intotheMojave,Arizona,andUtahandreturning“ladenwithore.”The
Guardianwondered:“...Whowillsaythatweofthiscowcountryarenotprospering‐even
withoutarailroad,harbor,breakwater,telegraphorthoseothernecessities,thatmakeatown
looklively.”8
Attheminesthenextspring,onecorrespondentpredictedthat“soontheshrillwhistleofthe
locomotivewillbeheardasitdashesthroughourdeepcañons,tobeansweredbythemagic
thumpofthestampandtheroaroftheblastfurnace....”Ivanpah,infact,was“becomingan
importantminingsettlement,rapidlyfillingupwithminers,”from150inFebruaryto300by
October.DuringthesixmonthstoDecember,Brunn&Roehadforwarded153,000poundsofore,
whichnetted$57,000.9
Astheleadingproducersinthedistrict,theMcFarlanesmadeIvanpahamodemcamp.They
builtasmallsmeltingfurnaceinNovember,1873,afterwhichsilverbarsbegan“makingtheir
appearance.”Thebrothersweresoonfoundtobelivingin“averycomfortablehouse”heatedby“a
goodstoveandplentyoffireinit.”Thelower‐gradeoreonthedumpawaitedonly“thenecessary
machinerytotransformitintobullion.”Accordingly,aboutearly1875,theMcFarlanesmoveda
five‐stampmillfromtheNewYorkMountainsto,itseems,thevicinityofthetown.TheBeatrice
Mine,bythistime,wasnearly300feetdeep.TheMcFarlanes'propertieswereincorporatedasthe
IvanpahConsolidatedMillandMiningCompany,oftencalledthe“IvanpahCon.”10
Thoughthedistricthadproducedarespectable$300,000bymid·1875,miningwascaughtin
thedoldrums.Silver‐leadstrikesatPanamintCityandDarwin,westofDeathValley,wereluring
menaway.Infact,the500horses,mules,andburrosaroundIvanpahfaroutnumberedthe100
whitesand40or50Indianslivingthere.Afewweekslater,inAugust,severalimportantbanksin
SanFranciscoandLosAngelesfailed,thevictimsofoverspeculationinmining.TheSan
BernardinoWeeklyTimesinearly1876askedforthepaymentofsmallbillsoweditbecause
“timesarehardandmoneyscarce.”11
Thoughtheeconomyremaineddepressedthrough1876,onemineshowedespecialpromise.
TheminewastheGunsight,anoldlead‐silverpropertybeingrevivednearTecopaandResting
Springs,about40milesnorthwestofIvanpah.(Despitethedistrict'sisolationanddesolation,200
menwereworkingattheGunsightbyearly1877,andanother200menlivedatanewly
establishedcampatnearbyRestingSprings.12ApostofficeopenedatTecopainMay.)
AttheIvanpahmines,J.A.Bidwellandapartnerbuilta10·stampmillonemileeastof
Ivanpahin1876.WhenitstartedupinJune,onecorrespondentreported:“'Notanidlemanin
camp.'Suchistheexpressionheardonallsidesnowadays....”TheBidwellmillwasrunningonly
halftime,but“thatprinceofgoodfellows,”WilliamA.McFarlane,wasrunningtheIvanpahCon.
millsteadily,partlyonorefromTecopa.
Thetownitselfwasatleastholdingitsown.TwoformerBearValleymerchantsweredoinga
thrivingbusiness.L.M.Wilson,amineoperator,waskeepingtheAccidentalHotel,socalled
becauseitwas“anaccidentifyougetanythingtoeat,andanaccidentifhegetsanypayforit.Iwill
justsaythatatWilson'stablewillbefoundallthedelicaciesofthemarket,inandoutofseason...
.”13
22
ButthepropertiesoftheIvanpahCon.soonfellonhardtimes.About$40,000inattachments
hadbeenfiledagainstthepropertybylate1876.TheSanBernardinoWeeklyArgusfearedthat
this“newtroublewillworkseverehardshiptomanyofourcitizens.Teamsters,station‐keepers,
andworkmengenerally,willfeeltheblow....”Thisproperty,underseveraloutsideowners,
operatedonlyintermittentlythrough1877,althoughtheMcFarlanesmanagedtheday‐to‐day
operations.Onewriterevencontendedthatthemineshadneverbeenproperlydeveloped,having
been“gougedtoomuchbyincompetentminers.”14
Thevariousregionalandnationaldepressionsbegantowanein1877.InSanBernardino,
businessseemedtobe“revivingalittle”thatsummer.Therecovery,sparkedbyarevivalin
railroadconstruction,begantospreadfromtheEast.Byearly1879,businesswasthemostbrisk
andthepeoplethemostconfidentsincetheflushtimesof1874·1875,whenthePanaminttrade
wasatitspeak.Oneeditorknewof“nosouphouses,nogangsofmenbeggingfortherighttolabor
at$1.00perday....Inviewofthesadscenesoflastwinterthepresentisafelicitousstateof
affairs.”15
TheseyearsofrecoverymarkedanexceptionallybusyperiodforIvanpah.Bidwellinlate
1877ordereda“neat”springwagonandacarloadofsuppliesandthenoverhauledhismill.The
forceathisLizzieBullockMineroseto20byAugust,1878.Thisoldandreliabledistrictstillheld
“itspositionasfirstonthelistofmeritoriouscampsofthecountry,bykeepingupitsshipmentsof
bullionandproducingrichores.”Bothmillshadbeenrunningsteadilyallseason.Twobarsof
Bidwellbullion“attractedagreatdealofattention”afewweekslaterattherailroaddepotin
Colton.Wellinto1879,Bidwellcontinuedtosendoutheavyloadsofbullion,onecargoworth
$8,000.AsheleftforSanFranciscotobuymoresuppliesforhismill,Bidwellagainpredicted“a
largeincreaseofminersandprosperityofthisaptlynamed'poorman'scamp.”16
Desertprospectsbeganarousingintenseinterestinneighboringcities,andinlate1877
countysupervisorsputupguideboards,deepenedwells,andinstalledwateringtroughsalongthe
SanBernardino‐RestingSpringsroad.JamesBoyd,theowneroftheCopperWorldMine,builtan
experimentalsmeltingfurnaceinSanBernardinoinAugust,1878.SanBernardino'smerchants,
meanwhile,wereforwardinggoodsdailytoRestingSprings,Ivanpah,andevenArizona.Theroad
totheClarkdistrictbyearly1879waslinedwithwell‐suppliedreststations,suchasSoda,where
hayandbarleycouldbeboughtforeightcentsapound.17
Thedistrictsthemselves,however,experiencedapeculiarformofeconomiclife.Thearrival
ofpaydayataminecouldbring“livelytimes”‐drinking,gambling,fighting,andgeneralidleness
fordays.Butwhereastheminesingeneralcouldremainprosperous,amillmightshutdownfor
lackoffuel,bringing“dulltimes”forweeks,evenmonths.
Duringone‐relativelydullperiod,inApril,1879,aresidentreportedthat“ourlittlecamp‐the
oldstand‐by‐isnotdead,andnotlikelytobe....Ithasbeenthemostprosperoussincethe
McFarlaneswereturningouttheirlargeamountsofbullioneverydayandthecampwasfullof
men....”Thedistrict'sresidents‐morethan100onAlaska(Mineral)Hillalone‐werecarrying
onabrisktradeatthetown'stwosaloonsandtwostores.Ivanpahalsosupportedtwoblacksmith
shops,twoshoemakers'shops,twohotels,twohayyards,onebutchershop,and“neatand
comfortable”houses,allinall,“muchbetterthanIanticipated,”onevisitorfound.Theareaalso
supportedajusticeofthepeace,constable,notary,postmaster,andperhapsadeputysheriff.18
Consideringthisgrowth,thelackofmailserviceremainedasoreissue.Loudcomplaintsin
thecounty'snewspapersandvigorouslobbyinginWashingtoninducedthepostofficedepartment
23
tohaltplanstorunamailroutefromMojavestation,ineasternKernCounty,totheTecopa‐
RestingSpringsareaandIvanpah.Thedepartmentfinallyauthorizedtheestablishmentofpost
officesatTecopainMay,1877,IvanpahinJune,1878,andKassoninJuly,1879.(Kasson,an
especiallyobscureoffice,servedaminingrevivalatSaratogaSprings,atthesouthendofDeath
Valley.ItclosedinNovember,1879.)19
ButtheactualdeliveryofmailhadtowaituntilaroundaboutroutefromColtontoFort
MojavewentintooperationinearlyNovember.Horsebackriderswerescheduledtomakethree
tripsaweekthroughSanBernardino,overtheCajonPassandalongtheMojaveRiver,andthento
TecopaandIvanpah.ContractorHughJ.White,theoperatorofastageline,wasgiven70hoursto
makeeachone‐waytrip.
Thisserviceturnedouttobefarfromsatisfactory.Whitecomplainedthatitwasimpossible
forhimtomaketherunintheallottedtimeandfromtheoutsethadcutTecopaandIvanpahoff
hisroute.Evenonthatshortenedroute,ScipioCraig,publisheroftheColtonSemi‐Tropic,bitterly
pointedout,themail“takesitasleisurelyasiftherewasnosuchthingasSpecialagentsorreports
oftrips....”CraigsoonbecameincensedthatWhite's“persistentrefusal”toruntoTecopahad
“provokedmuchwrothandcursingfromthehardyminersofthatflourishingcamp.”AsColton's
postmaster,hepromptlyreceivedpermissiontohandoutmailtoproperlyidentifiedresidentsof
Tecopa,
Whitegotthemessage.Hewasreceivingonly$1,000amonthtomaintainhorseback
deliveriesthatcosthim$1,400amonth.YetbeginninginlateDecember,Whitewentovertheline,
repeatedlyrestockedit,andorderedhalfadozenbuckboardstocarryexpressmatter.Finally,he
promisedTecopatriweeklyrunsfromIvanpah,whichhismenwerereachingin48hours.“....
GuessMr.Whiteintendstodothesquarethingafterall,”Craigremarked.Theseimprovements,he
latersaid,wouldbe“asourceofjoy”totheminersofTecopa.WhenWhiteinspectedtheline“asa
matterofform”inSeptember,1880,itwasreportedthat“everythingconnectedwiththeroutehas
beensothoroughlyorganizedthatitismostlikewellregulatedclockwork....”20
Likeclockwork,heavybarsofbullionfromtheClarkdistrict,worth$2,000to$4,000a
shipment,continuedtopourintoColtonandSanBernardino.Craigrejoiced:“Thenewsfromthis
flourishingcampgrowsbetterandbetter.Everyweekorsowenoticehugebarsofsilverbullion
passingthroughenrouteforthemetropolis.Thesebarsweighnearlytwohundredpoundsapiece
andaremorenearlypuresilverthancoin.”Whenonegrouplatersentanexceptionallyrichload
toColton,hemoanedthatit“willgoenoughdollarstomakeaprinter'seyeswateralldownhis
neck....”21
ButIvanpahrepresentedmorethanmining.Itsresidentsalsoappreciatedarichsociallife.
WhenBillyBorehammarriedMayTaftatRestingSprings,the“boys”ofIvanpahgavethecouplea
rousingreception,whichwasfollowedbymusic,smalltalk,andsinginguntiltheweehours.When
Dr.FredBishopmadeplanstomarry“adashingwidowofSanBernardino,”hewaspraisedasa
“finefellow”whodeserved“afairbirdforsofineacage.”(Bishop,alas,waskilledafewmonths
later,whenapparentlyhishorsestumbledandfellonhim.)22
Camplifealsohadanuglyside.WhenphotographerAdamVale,aclean‐livingfamilyman
fromSanBernardino,enteredIvanpahinApril,1880,hecameacrosstwodrunkslyinginthe
streetandanothertryingtogetapistoltoshootanotherman.Hehastilyscrawledinhisdiary:“
'Drunk'Oh!whatamess.Delivermefromsuchaplace[.]”23
24
Valehadreasontowince.Afewdayslater,inoneofIvanpah's“manywhiskyrows,”another
manwashurled“intoeternitywithoutamoment'snotice....”ThetroublehadstartedwhenD.C.
SargentaccusedL.M.Wilson,thehotelandboardinghouseowner,ofcheatingatcards.Theissue
festeredforseveraldays,SargentfinallytakinghissupposedlossfromWilsonatgunpoint.
AnychanceofapeacefulsettlementvanishedwhentwoofWilson'sfriends,JackRileyand
AndyLaswell,wentafterthemoney.ButliquorgotthebestofLaswell,whoconfrontedSargentat
1.F.Burdick'sstore:“Wehavesomebusinesstosettlewithyou,socomeoutandsettleit.”Sargent
retorted:“Ihavenobusinesswithyouandamnotgoingtosettlewithyou.”
Sargentapparentlymadeamotionasiftopullarevolver.Riley,andperhapsLaswell,began
firing.Hitfourtimes,Sargentfelldead.
Thoughthiswasthecamp'sfirstkilling,themachineryofjusticewentintomotionatonce.
JohnA.McFarlane,asforeman,heldacoroner'sinquest,adoctorexaminedthebody,andthe
prisonerswereplacedinironsandtakenunder'heavyguardtoSanBernardino,wherethey
appearedatapreliminarycourthearing.BothLaswellandRileywerehighlyrespected,andCraig
refusedtocommentontheaffair.“....TheCourtofthiscountywillhavechargeofthecaseandwe
suppressalldesiretoenlargeuponthematter.”
(Confinedinthehot,stuffyjail,Laswellbecame“dangerouslyill”inJuneandwasmovedtoa
home,“whereeverythingisbeingdonethatispossiblebutthereareveryfainthopesofhis
recovery.”Butherecovered.AjurylaterfoundRileyguiltyofmanslaughterbutacquittedLaswell
andWilson.)24
Onlydaysafterthekilling,thecorrespondentfortheSemi‐Tropicexplainedthetwo‐sided
natureofIvanpah:“‘Payday'intheIvanpahConsolidatedhascomeandgoneandourtownhas
[begun]tosettledownintothatquietlittlecampofold.Ivanpah,likenearlyallotherCalifornia
miningcamps[,]iseitherallexcitementorelseveryquiet.Theyaremadebyexcitements,spring
upasbyenchantmentandassuddenlydie.Ivanpah,forthreeorfourdaysafterpayday,wasas
livelyasthecampsof'49.'Everybodyhadmoneyandconsequentlynearlyeverybodywasdrunk,
ortryingtogetthatway.Fightsweretheorderoftheday,andeverymanthathadagrudge
againsthisneighborwantedtosettleitupandconsequently....theyallgotsatisfied.”25
Bynow‐early1880‐thetown'sfortuneswerefading.DuringVale'svisitinApril,dailylife
centeredonMcGintey'sstoreandsaloon,Wilson'sboardinghouse,McGrath'ssaloon,I.F.Burdick's
store,thepostoffice,andahayyard.Sinceonlyabout65menandwomenlivedintown,andnot
manymoreatthemines,mailservicewascuttoweeklyinMay,whenashort‐livedweekly
newspaperwaspublished.26
25
(Courtesy:JournaloftheWest)
CookandFrazee'slivelyIvanpahnewspaper,the“Green‐EyedMonster.”
TheweeklywastheGreen‐EyedMonster,namedafteramine.ItwasfoundedinMaybyJames
B.Cook,37,andWilmonte(Will)D.Frazee,22.
Frazee,thesonofarespectedfamilyintheSanBernardinoValley,hadservedhis
apprenticeshipunderCraigwhileValeandstageoperatorWilliamGodfreywereservingascounty
agentsfortheSemi·Tropic.WhenFrazee“pushedoutintothecold,coldworldtoseekhisfortune
elsewhere”inearly1879,Craigcommendedhim“tothegoodgracesofthecraftwhereverhemay
go.Heisasteadyboyandafasttypo.”FrazeejoinedtheArgusbutwoundupcarryingthemailto
Ivanpahinearly1880.Hesoonbecameknownforwritingdroll,humoroussketchesinthemanner
ofMarkTwainandDanDeQuille.
DespiteCookandFrazee'sjournalisticexperience,theyhadtoclosetheirpaperafteronlya
fewissues,quipping:“Aftersomeweeksinthis'boom'camp,ourarguseyehasyettocatcheven
oneliveitemtoserveupinourlocalcolumn,savetheexcitingincidentsofourownarrival,
heraldedasitwasbythecheeringrattleofabrotherreptilebesideourtrailandtheattentive
yawnofMcGintey'syellowpupintheshadeofthestore.”27
NotevenpoliticsexcitedIvanpah'svotersmuchanymore.Onlyafewyearsearlier,its
residentshadsupportedthepopulistWorkingmen'sPartyandtheadoptionofasecondstate
constitution.ButinNovember,1880,theyfellinlinebehindJamesGarfield,theregular
Republicancandidateforpresident.Garfieldreceived29votesto13forWinfieldHancock,the
Democraticcandidate.Theelection“passedoffquietlyforaMiningcamp,withoutanyonebeing
seriouslyinjuredbybeingmixedupinlittlepoliticalsquabbles...Itispoorpolicytobeton
electionreturnsfromminingcamps,foragreatmanyofthemenwilltalkonewayandvote
another.”28
Meanwhile,fornearlyayear,otherdiscoverieshadbeenexcitingthecounty:atOroGrande,
nearthepresentVictorville;theWatermanMine,justnorthoftoday'sBarstow;attheMescal(or
Cambria)Mine,inthesouthernendoftheClarkdistrict;andintheProvidenceMountains,even
farthersouth.OfabonanzastruckbyAndyMcFarlaneandCharleyHassenatProvidence,a
correspondentreportedinJune,1880:“Everybodywhocangetawayareofftothemines.The
recentdiscoverieshavecausedafeveramongalltheoldprospectorsandtheyareawaytotry
theirchancesoncemore....”29
26
ThoughtheIvanpahCon.hadproducedareported$500,000inbullionbytheendof1879,it
remaineddoggedbyunexplainedtroubles.Tocutcostsandsupportacompany‐sponsoredstore,
theowners,aSanFranciscofirm,hadissuedscrip“inimitationofmoney.”Thecompanylater
suspendedwork,owingitsmenseveralmonths'backpay.ThefirmalsoowedtheUnitedStates
governmenta10percenttaxfortheissuanceofthescrip.Theworkerssued,followedbythe
government,whichwonajudgmentof$1,480andsentE.F.BeanasdeputyInternalRevenue
collectortoattachthemineandmill.
Theattachmentbecameanythingbutroutine.“AnotherTragedyAtIvanpah!”theSan
BernardinoWeeklyIndexheadlined.Thetragedy,anotherkilling,hadoccurredafterBeanarrived
onMay16andwenttothecompanyofficetohavethemillshutdown.Duringthatdayandthe
next,clerkJ.B.CookandsuperintendentJohnMcFarlanethreatenedBean.McFarlanesoon
apologizedforhavingbrandishedadouble‐barreledshotgunandfor“usingthemostabusive
language,andapplyingthemostopprobriousepithets.”Thenheshutdowntheboilerandclosed
themill.
Themechanicsoftheattachmentrevealedaseethingcaldronofpersonalities,oldwounds,
scorestobesettled.When,ontheeveningofMay17,CookwastoldthatFredHisomwaswatching
overthemill,hegotupfromhisgameofcardsandrushedouttothemill,revolverdrawn,
threateningBeanandMcFarlane.Duringthedisputethatfollowed,McFarlanesidedwithCook,his
right‐handman,grabbingashotgunandthreateningHisom.Hisomthensprangforward,dodged
ashepushedupthemuzzleoftheshotgun,whichwentoff,andrammedMcFarlaneagainstthe
millwall.Hisomsoonfeltasharppaininhishead,andbloodstreameddownhisneck.Thenthe
twomenclinched.Realizingthedanger,HisompressedhisrevolveragainstMcFarlaneandfired
threeshots.McFarlanefelldead;Cookbeggedforhislife.
Hisomgavehimselfuptoadeputysheriff.Cookwasalsoarrested.AtacourthearinginSan
Bernardino,thekillingwasruled“aclearcaseofjustifiablehomicide,”andHisomwasreleased.
TheIndexpraisedbothHisomandBeanforshowingrestraint,notingHisom's“courageand
coolness.”ThekillingsmadeIvanpahasubduedcamp.
InSanBernardino,itwasfearedthatMrs.McFarlanemightremain“hopelesslyinsane.”But
sherecoveredsomewhatafewweekslater,receiveda$2,000checkfromherhusband'sfraternal
order,andwentEasttospendthesummerwithrelatives.(Shelaterhadherhusband'sbody
reburiedinSanBernardino.)TheMcFarlanebrothersavertedaforcedsaleoftheIvanpahCon.by
payingtheclaimoftheU.S.governmentbutplannedtosuefor$50,000.30
Ingeneral,however,theminesweredoingwellin1881.FromRestingSpringscameshipmentsof
$7,000inbullion,fromIvanpahshipmentsof$3,000.Bytheendoftheyear;Wells,Fargo&
Companyhadshippedmorethan$150,000inbullionand$12,000ingolddustthroughSan
Bernardinoalone.Withfairlycheaprailroadtransportationavailable,oreleftonthedumpswas
beingshippedout“togoodadvantage,asitisveryeasilygotout....”31
Informationissketchy,butIvanpah'smineswereprobablyreachingtheirpeakbythistime.
AnexceedinglyimportantseriesofsilverstrikeswasmadeonCalicoMountaininearly1881;
withinayear,hundreds‐laterthousands‐werearrivingfromcitiesandminingcampsalike.Inthe
Ivanpahprecinct,thenumberofregisteredvotersdeclinedfromapeakof78in1879toeight
in1886.WhiletheMescalMineoperated,theownersboughtthepropertiesoftheIvanpahCanin
early1887andannouncedimprovementsthatwould“keepthemillinconstantoperationand
27
oncemore,makeIvanpahalivelycamp....”AnIvanpahmineoperatoralsoplannedtobuildamill
athismine.Butneitherplancametopass.Aboutallthatremainedinoperationwereastoreand
thepostoffice,perhapsaboardinghouse,too.Aweeklymailcontinuedtoarrivein1890,butitis
unlikelythatthetwomillsranveryoften,foronly11residentsremained.32
WhenyoungFrankWilliamspassedthroughtowninDecember,1892,Ivanpahwasa
convenientplacetostop,nothingmore.“IarrivedinIvanpahsometimeaftermidnightandasI
couldseenolightsanywhereIjustsataroundandshivereduntildaylightcame.WhenIsawa
largestonebuildinglightedup,IwentoverandfoundittobeMr.Bidwell'sstoreandboarding
house.”WilliamsgotbreakfastanddirectionstoGoodsprings,Nevada.
Thepioneerswerealreadypassing,JohnnyMossin1880,JohnMcFarlanein1881.Bidwell
woulddiein1893,followedbyCrossmanandAndrewMcFarlane.
Alsopassingwassilver'sstatusasafavoredmetal.Atemporarypoliticalmaneuver,the
ShermanSilverPurchaseAct,droveupthepricein1890and1891.ButPresidentGrover
Clevelandandotherhard‐moneyRepublicans,fearingadepression,repealedthemeasure.Too
lateanothersix‐year“financialstringency”sweptthenation.Oldsilvercampsdeclinedwhile
majorgoldstrikeswerebeingmadealloverthedessert,atHedges(Tumco),Picacho,Randsburg,
andMojave.AtIvanpah,thestoreclosedaboutwhensilverreachedalowof58centsannouncein
1898.ThepostofficeclosedinApril,1899.33
Nowanotherpioneerdiscoverywasprovingitsworth.TheCopperWorldMinehadbeen
reactivatedin1898,becomingthelargestcopperproducerinSouthernCalifornia.Alargesmelter
wasbuiltatValley(Rosalie)Wells;afewmilesbelowthemine,inearly1899;theIvanpahpost
officewasmovedtoValleyWellsinAprilanditsnamechangedtoRosalie.
Themineandsmelteremployed85menand140mules.Everyfourdays,teamswouldhaul
20tonsofbullionupthe2,000‐footgradeoftheNewYorkMountainstoManvel,30miles
southeast,andreturnwithcoalandsupplies.Themineproduced11,000tonsofrichcopperore
untillitigationforcedthemine,smelter,andpostofficetocloseinJuly,1900.
SpurredbytheimminentrevivaloftheCopperWorld,theCaliforniaEasternRailwaybuilt
a16‐mileextensionfromManveldowntothebrushcoveredIvanpahValleyinearly1902.Atthe
end‐of‐track,afewstoresandotherbuildingsoccupiedby25to30personsmadeupanother
“Ivanpah,”calledIvanpahstation,locatedperhapsadozenmilessoutheastofitsoriginal
namesake.AnIvanpahpostofficereopenedatthestationinAugust,1903.
Thestationfailedtolast.Costly,wastefuloperationsforcedtheCopperWorldtocloseaftera
yearortwo.ArailroadfromSaltLakeCitytoLosAngeles(thepresentUnionPacific)wasbuilt
withinafewmilesofthestationin1904‐1905;otherlineswerebuilttotheboraxandgoldfields
ofDeathValleyandwesternNevada.ThepostofficewasmovedseveralmilestoLeastalk,anewly
establishedstationatthejunctionoftheSaltLakelineandCaliforniaEastern.TheCopperWorld
reopenedin1906,producing487,000poundsofcopperin1907alone,thenclosed.lvanpah
stationhadbeennearlydeserted“forsometime”whenitsfourorfivebuildingswereburnedin
April,1908,supposedlybytramps.TheCaliforniaEasternranatrainfromManveluntil1913,
finallytearingupthetracksin1921.
ThenWorldWarIboostedmetalprices.TheCopperWorldwasreopenedin1916,alarge
blastfurnacewaslaterbuilt,andtheworkforcewasincreasedfromsixto60.Thebullionwas
28
hauledbytractortoCima,astationontheSaltLakerailroad.TheArmisticeinlate1918ledto
decliningprices,andtheCopperWorldagainshutdown.Thiswasthemine'slastmajorrevival.34
Afterafewyears,LeastalkwasrenamedSouthIvanpah,whichwassoonshortenedto
Ivanpah.Asiding,home,andclusterboxformailmakeupthesettlement.
Notes
1. ColtonSemi·Tropic,March13,1880;SanBernardinoWeeklyIndex,Nov.26,1881,citing
mint'sannualreportonproductionofgoldandsilverinU.S.
2. LarryVredenburgh,GaryShumway,andRussellHartill,DesertFever:AnOverviewof
MiningintheCaliforniaDesert(CanogaPark,1981),pp96‐109;ThePiuteCompanyof
CaliforniaandNevada(SanFrancisco,1870);SanBernardino(Weekly)Guardian,May31,
1873.
3. Guardian,June18,1870;RomanMalach,AdventurerJohnMoss(Kingman,1977),p5;Piute
Company.
4. Guardian,Aug.20,Sept.10,andOct.1,1870.
5. Ibid,Sept.30,1871.
6. PiuteCompany;Guardian,Aug.5andSept.30,1871.
7. Guardian,Ap.26,1873.
8. Ibid,Ap.13andOct.19,1872.
9. Ibid,May31,Feb.22,Oct.4,andDec.6,1873.
10. Ibid,Nov.15,1873,andFeb.21,1874;Vredenburgh,DesertFever,p.113;GeorgeM.Wheeler,
AnnualReportUponTheGeographicalSurveysWestOfTheOneHundredthMeridian...
(Washington,D.C.,1876),pp,53‐54.
11. RemiNadeau,City‐Makers:TheStoryofSouthernCalifornia'sFirstBoom,1868‐1876(4th
ed.;CoronadelMar,1965),valuablebackgroundthroughoutontrade,railroads,and
mining;Wheelerreport,pp.53‐54;SanBernardinoWeeklyTimes,Feb.12,1879.
12. SanBernardinoWeeklyArgus,Feb.14,1877;accountsofcamp'sprogresscanbefoundin
WeeklyTimes,Aug.24,1878,andFeb.22,1879,andWeeklyIndex,Nov.15,1880.
13. WeeklyTimes,June17,1876.
14. WeeklyArgus,Dec.3,1876;Semi‐Tropic,Aug.25,1877.
15. Semi‐Tropic,Sept.1,1877;WeeklyTimes,Feb.15andMarch1,1879.
16. Semi‐Tropic,Dec.15,1877,andJan.19,1878;WeeklyTimes,Aug.24,1878;Semi·Tropic,
Sept.28,1878,andAp.5,1879.
17. Road:Semi·Tropic,Oct.13,1877,Aug.10,1878;WeeklyTimes,Aug.10,1878;tradeand
travel:WeeklyTimes,Ap.27,1878,andAp.5,1879.
18. WeeklyTimes,Ap.5andAp.19,1879.
19. Semi‐Tropic,Jan.18andOct.26,1878,andMay10,1879;W.N.Frickstad,ACenturyof
CaliforniaPostOffices,1848‐1954(Oakland,1955),pp.51and146,142,153.
20. Semi‐Tropic,May10,Nov.8,Nov.15,Nov.22,Dec.6,andDec.20,1879,andJan.21and
Sept.4,1880.
21. Ibid,March13andJune5,1880.
22. Ibid,March30,1880.30
23. WilliamVale,“LogofTriptoIvanpah&RestingSprings”(typewrittencopyofdiary),
CaliforniaRoom,SanBernardinoPublicLibrary.
24. Semi‐Tropic,May1andJuly3,1880;WeeklyTimes,July3,1880;Semi‐Tropic,Oct.2,1880;
WeeklyIndex,Oct.8andOct.15,1880.
25. Semi·Tropic,May1,1880.
29
26. Valediary;Semi‐Tropic,May1,1880;Censusschedules,SanBernardinoCounty,1880.
27. KarlShutka,“‘HumbugBill’Frazeeandthe‘Green‐EyedMonster,’”JournaloftheWest,
October,1962;Semi‐Tropic,Feb.15,1879,andJan.21,1880.
28. Semi‐Tropic,Nov.13,1880.
29. Vredenburgh,DesertFever,throughout;Semi‐Tropic,June19,1880
30. RichardLingenfelter,TheHardrockMiners:AHistoryofTheLaborMovementinThe
AmericanWest,1863‐1893(Berkeley,1974),pp.29‐30;LosAngelesDailyHerald,May25,
1881,clippingSanBernardino(Daily?)Times;WeeklyIndex,May27,June3,June10,June
24,andJuly22,188l.
31. WeeklyIndex,Ap.1,Ap.8andNov.26,1881,andJan.21,1882.
32. TheWeeklyIndexandWeeklyTimesfor1881andearly1882chronicletheriseofCalico;
GreatRegister,1879and1886;Mining&ScientificPress(SanFrancisco),Ap.2andSept.17,
1887,andDec.13,1890;U.S.CensusReportforCalifornia,1890.
33. FrankWilliamsautobiography(typewrittencopy),FrankWilliamsCollection,Special
Collections,University"ofNevada,LasVegas;profileofAndrewMcFarlanebyFred
Holladayin“TheSilverKing,”Odyssey,March,1979,andofWilliamMcFarlaneinJ.M.
Guinn,AHistoryofCalifornia...(LosAngeles,1907),II,1531;Vredenburgh,DesertFever,
throughout;Frickstad,p.142.
34. Vredenburgh,DesertFever,pp.107‐109;Frickstad,p.142;LewisAubury,TheCopper
ResourcesofCalifornia,Cal.StateMin.Bur.Bulletin23(SanFrancisco,April,1902),p.254;
DavidMyrick,RailroadsofNevadaandEasternCalifornia(Berkeley,1963),II,844·848;
HoraceStevens,comp.,TheCopperHandbook...(Houghton,Mich.,1903),III,282;D.F.
Hewett,GeologyandMineralResourcesoftheIvanpahQuadrangle...,U.S.Geological
SurveyProf.Paper275(Washington,D.C.,1956),pp.136‐138;Searchlight(Nevada)
Bulletin,Ap.10,1908.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Iamgratefultomyfather,MorrisHensher,FredHolladay,ArdaHaenszel,andLarry
Vredenburghfortheirencouragementandhelp.‐"AlanHensher.
SOURCES
ThehistoryofIvanpahhadtobepiecedtogetherfromavarietyofsources,especiallybadly
brokenfilesofnewspapers:theSanBernardinoGuardian(weekly),theArgus(weeklyanddaily),
ValleyIndex(weeklyanddaily),andColtonSemi‐Tropic(weekly),1870‐1881.Inexplicably,the
Mining&ScientificPresspublishedonlyoccasionalitems..
Thoughmorespeculativethaninformative,astock‐promotionbooklet,ThePiuteCompanyof
CaliforniaandNevada(SanFrancisco,1870),containsbeautifullithographsoftheClarkMountain
district.
Avarietyofvisitorsmadeimportantobservations:“JottingsbytheWayEnRoutetoIvanpah,
ClarkDistrict,”SanBernardinoGuardian,Sept.30,1871;FrederickDellenbaugh'sdiary,“Recordof
aSketchingTourtoN.Arizona&S.Utah,1875‐1876”(originalheldbytheArizonaHistorical
Society);GeorgeM.Wheeler'sAnnualReportUpontheGeographicalSurveysWestoftheOne
HundredthMeridian(Washington,1876),pp,53‐54;WilliamVale'sdiary,“LogofTriptoIvanpah
&RestingSprings”(typescriptcopyinCaliforniaRoom,SanBernardinoPublicLibrary);Frank
30
William’sautobiography(typescriptcopyinDepartmentofSpecialCollections,Universityof
Nevada,LasVegas).
ThreeoftheMcFarlanebrothersareseparatelyprofiled:IllustratedHistoryofSouthern
California(Chicago,1890);J.M.Guinn,AHistoryofCalifornia...(LosAngeles,1907),II;andFred
HolladayinOdyssey(CityofSanBernardinoHistoricalSociety,bulletin),March,1979.Moss’searly
yearsaretoucheduponinRomanMalach,AdventurerJohnnyMoss...(Kingman,1977).
KarlShutkagatheredthescantinformationonIvanpah'snewspaperanditsfoundersintwo
articlespublishedinJournaloftheWest(LosAngeles):“‘HumbugBill’Frazeeandthe‘Green‐Eyed
Monster,’”October,1962(v.1),pp,215‐218,and“‘HumbugBill’Frazee:His‘CanteenFish’and
OtherTallTales,”July,1964(v.3),pp.369‐374.
D.F.Hewett,afederalgeologist,visitedtheminesduringthe1920's,whenonepioneer
remained:GeologyandMineralResourcesoftheIvanpahQuadrangle,CaliforniaandNevada
(UnitedStatesGeologicalSurvey,ProfessionalPaper275,1956).Vredenburghthoroughly
researchedthehistoryoftheClarkandadjacentdistrictsinDesertFever(citedearlier).The
revivaloftheCopperWorldarousedconsiderableinterest,asrecordedintheRedlands
Citrograph,1898‐1899;HoraceStevens,comp.,TheCopperHandbook...(Houghton,Mich.,1902),
III;andintworeportsbyLewisAubury,bothentitledTheCopperResourcesofCalifornia
(CaliforniaStateMiningBureau,Bulletin23,1902,andBulletin50,1908).
ThebrieflifeofIvanpahStation(I)istoldinDavidMyrick'sRailroadsofNevadaandEastern
California,II(citedearlier),andtheNeedlesEyeandtheSearchlightBulletin,April,1908.
31
WATERMAN,CALICO,BISMARCK
OroGrandeandWaterman
CALICOWASASILVERDEPOSITwaitingtobediscovered.FairroadsledfromSanBernardino
acrosstheMojaveDesert‐‐towardNevada,Utah,andArizona.Ranchesandsupplystationsdotted
theseroadslikethemotelsandservicestationsofalaterera.Nearlyeveryone,itseemed,
prospectedontheside,fromsheriffstosurgeons.Bythelate1870's,muchofthedesertwas
stakedoutinminingclaims.
Twoareasinparticularluredprospectorsintothedesert:OroGrande,ontheMojaveRiver,
about45milesnorthofSanBernardino,andtheGrapevinedistrict,nearthelatersiteofBarstow.
OroGrandewastheresultofrediscoveriesofsilverandgoldoreinmid1880.Amining
districtwasorganized,atownsitelaidout,andapostofficenamedHalleckestablished,inJanuary,
1881.OroGrandepresented“averypicturesqueappearance”toavisitorinApril.“...Onedriving
intotownatduskwillseetheminersreturningfromwork,whilethecampfiresareburningand
supperisbeingprepared....”Ageneralstore,twobutchershops,ahotel,alodginghouse,several
smallhomes,acompanyofficeandassayoffice,anda10‐stamp,waterpoweredmillloomingin
thebackground“combinetogivethetowntheappearanceofabusyminingcamp.”
(SeveralMilwaukeecapitalists,whowouldfigureprominentlyatCalico,boughttheminesand
millinlate1881andformedtheOroGrandeMiningCompany.Thoughminingquicklyfaded,Oro
Grandesurvivedasanimportantfarming,railroad,andmillingcenter.Thepostofficewas
renamedOroGrandein1925.)
MOREIMMEDIATEwastherevivaloftheGeorgeG.LeeclaimsintheGrapevinedistrict.Lee
hadfoundwhathethoughtwasmercuryorefourmilesnorthofwhatisnowBarstowbutdiedin
1879.RobertW.Waterman,aleadingfarmerintheSanBernardinoValley(andafuturegovernor)
andgeologistJohnL.PortervisitedtheLeepropertyinmid‐1880.InDecember,theyfoundsilver
insamplestakenfromtheclaims,stakedtheareaoutforthemselves,andplannedamillingcamp
onahilloverlookingtheMojaveRiver.
Operationsbeganalmostatonce.“Doc”GeorgeYager,oneofthediscoverersoftheSilverKing
MineatCalico,sawsacksoforeworthupto$3,000atoninsilverawaitingshipmenttoSan
Francisco.Duringthespringandsummer,WatermanandPorterboughtmachineryforamilland
clearedamillsitewith15Indians.Theore,meanwhile,washauledoutbywagonforeventual
millinginSanFrancisco.ThesettlementthatwasbuiltincludedageneralstorerunbyE.J.Miller
andageneralstore,hotel,and10‐stampmilloperatedbyWatermanandPorter.Watermanpost
officewasestablishedinOctober,1881,thoughthematerialfortheofficeandthepostmaster's
commission(forsonWaldo)failedtoarriveuntilNovember,whenthemillstartedup.Themill
wassoonrunningdayandnight,processing18tonsoforeaday.
WatermanandPortermade“noloudcryabouttheirsuccess,”givingscantdetailsabouttheir
operations.ButtheheavybarsofsilverpassingthroughtheexpressofficeinSanBernardinomade
quiteastir.Alargecrewwasworking'atthemine(January,1882)onorethatassayedupto
$1,100aton.Inlessthanayear,theWatermanhadbecometheleadingsilvermineinSan
BernardinoCounty.ThediscoveriesatCalico,lessthan10milesaway,sooneclipsednewsfrom
theWaterman.Perhapsstimulatedbythearrivalofasecondrailroadin1885,aschoolwasbuiltat
32
themillingcamp,infrontofthemill.ThisbecamethenucleusoftheBarstowschooldistrict.The
mineproduced$1,611,429fromMay,1881,tomid‐March,1887.Atthemill,thepostofficeclosed
afewweekslater,inApril.Thebuildingsatthecampremainedstandingforseveralyears.
TheDiscoveryoftheCalicoMines
CONSIDERINGTHESUCCESSoftheWatermanandPorteroperations,furtherstrikesinthe
regionseemedassured.PartiesofSanBernardinoresidentswentoutontothedesertalmostdaily,
reportingtheirlucktoaneagerpressinColtonandSanBernardino.
Lessthan10milesnortheastofGrapevineStationroseamulticoloredmountainresemblinga
“greatmassofburntvolcanicrock”whosesteep,ruggedsidesandsummit“arecoveredwith
broken,sharpstones.Inthecanyonthewallsrisealmostperpendicularandinmanyplacesthe
formationistwistedanddistortedasthoughithadatsometimebeeningreatagony....”That's
howonepioneervisitordescribedCalicoMountain,alreadyknownbythatname.
Thefirstpersonstofileclaimsinthedistrict,inlateMarch,1881,wereM.Lawrenceand
HieronymousHartman.(HartmanandhiswifebecameprominentbusinessownersinCalico.)
ButofgreaterimportancewasthediscoveryoftheSilverKingclaimtwoweekslater,inearly
April.ThediscovererswereagroupofSanBernardinoresidentsstirredbynewsreportsofthe
WatermanandPorterclaims:youngFrankMecham,asonofLafayetteMecham,formeroperator
ofFishPondsStation,ontheMojaveRiver;GeorgeYager,Mecham'suncle;andTomWardenand
HuesThomas,sheriff'sdeputies.GrubstakingthemwereSheriffJohnC.KingandEllisMiller,the
ownerofGrapevineStationandranch.
TheCamp
ASETTLEMENTGREWUPonamesa‐likeridgeatthefootofWallStreetCanyon.Mostofthe
businessesflankedasingle,twistingstreet.
Calicoexperiencedlittlegrowthatfirst.ThetownsitecontainednotonebuildingonJuly4,andWall
StreetCanyoncontainedonlyacabin.Onlytwomenlivedinthedistrict.
NotuntilSamJames,afewdayslater,startedworkontheSilverKingMinedidthedistrict
experiencemuchactivity.Asthesummerof1881endedSheriffJ.C.Kingleasedthemine;theore
assayed$100to$2,000aton.Withinweeks,prospectorswereswarmingovertheregion,asaLos
Angelesdailyreported:“...Noticesandmonumentsareplentifuleverywhere,andthenumberof
locationsmadeinallpartsofthedistrictareinnumerable,itappearingthatpartieshavelocated
everythingthathasanyappearanceorresemblanceofaledge,waitingtoseewhatthefuturemay
bringforth....Prospectingpartiesarebranchingoutinalldirections,north,south,eastandwest,
prospectingineveryrangethatcanbereached,”limitedonlybytheirabilitytobringtheirownwater.
Meanwhile,Calico'sbusinessdistricthadcometoencompassthreestores,ahayyard,andan
assayoffice.Townlotsweregoingfor“reasonableprices.”TenmenwereworkingattheSilverKingfor
$4aday.Mrs.HieronymousHartman,thecamp'sfirstwoman,arrivedtoopenaboardinghouse.“...
WallStreetbooming.Nobanksyet,”quippedonecorrespondent.
Promisingstrikesweremadeallthroughthefallandwinterof1881,butliferemaineddull.
Residentswatchedfor“capitalists,andwaiting(likeMicawber)forsomethingtoturnup....”Thecamp
33
wassoquietthatthesightingofamountainlion[!]becametheexcuseforahunt.Astheholidays
approached,Hartmanbegan“agitatingthequestionofagrandChristmasdinner;butastheturkeyand
chickenshavenotputinanappearancethereseemstobeapoorshowingforanythingbetterthanthe
regularbeansandbacon....”Sincemailwas“ratherirregular,”stagedriverAaronHarrisonofferedto
bringmailforanyoneonhisweeklytripsfromSanBernardino,“sowewill,hereafter,beabletoget
newsfromthe‘inside’atleastsemi‐occasionally.”(“Inside”referredtosuchareasasSanBernardino
andLosAngeles.)
Thelackofarailroad,gales,andrecordsnowstormsthatblockedmosttravelfromSan
Bernardinofailedtodauntthepioneers.Afterall,sevenoreightmenwereworkingattheBurning
MoscowMine,lumberwasonhandtoputupseveralbuildings,andthecampnowsupporteda
blacksmithshop,threestores,allsaidtobe“doingaverygoodbusiness,”Barber'sassayoffice,agood
lodginghouseanda“goodboardinghouse”keptbyMrs.Hartman,whowas“preparedtogiveagood
mealatalltimes,”andevenashootinggallery.Abovecamp,the“SilverKingboyshavethemavery
comfortablehouse.”
As1881turnedinto1882,thepressknewtherewas“nodangeroftheexcitementatCalico
dyingout.”SheriffKingcalledupontheeditoroftheSanBernardinoIndex,“beamingwithsmiles
andhavingmorerocksinhispocketthanusual.”AndaCaptainCovingtonlefttheeditor“twovery
finespecimens”ofsilverore.“...WeesteemtheCaptain...andwishhimallsort[?]ofgoodluck..
.‐‐hedeserveseverybitofit.”
ThewretchedweathercontinuedthroughJanuary(1882).ButemploymentattheKinghad
risento10.“Judgingfromthenumberofboxesofminers'candlesunloading”atastoreinSan
Bernardino,theIndexconcludedthat“theremustbeagooddealofundergroundworkgoingonin
ourmines.”
Buttheisolationcouldstillmakethedistrict'sresidentsanxious.TheSouthernPacificRailroad
beganbuildinganextensionfromMojaveStationtoNeedles,ontheColoradoRiver,inFebruary.
YetmailforCalicowasstillbeingdeliveredalongaroundaboutrouteofseveralhundredmiles,
throughRogersStationandIvanpah.Onecorrespondentfumedthatletters“aregenerallyamonth
oldwhenwegetthem;yettheypasswithintwomilesofcampbutaresecurelylockedinthemail
sack.Wehavethemostpopulouscamponthedesert,yetcan'tgetaPostoffice,andsomeofthe
boysindulgeincusswordswhentheyfindtheirmailwornoutintravelingbackandforthinsight
ofcamp....”
Otherproblemsplaguedthedistrict.Becauseofthecamp'sremoteness,thecostoffreighting
washigh‐‐$25atonfromSanBernardino‐‐andthemineswerestillnotproducingore.
Partofthecostoffreightingcouldbeattributedtothelackofnaturalresources.TheCalico
regionsupportedlittlegame,littleofthelandcouldbecultivated,andtheweatherunderwent
“unpleasantextremes.”Asforfuel,thegreasewood(creosote)andcottonwoodsalongtheMojave
Riverweresparse.TheriverwassolowinMarchthatityieldedonly“steam.”Theveteranminer
S.D.Bladeconcludedthatnothingcould“liveontheseplainswithouthaulinggrub,exceptland
turtlesorlizardsoranoccasionaljackrabbit....”
TheTown
THESEDRAWBACKSmusthavedismayedthefaithful.ForbyearlyMarch,thecountryhad
become“alivewithprospectors,whogooutonthedesertwastesandsandplainstoprospect,with
34
buggiesandbuckboardsandtwo‐horsewagonstohaulgrubandwater....”Fiftyto100persons
livedintown.E.Sommers,inthemeantime,wasshippinginlumber,fivetonsofmachinery,anda
smokestacktobuildafive‐stampmill.Theminerswould“hailwithjoythespeedycompletionof
themill.”
Thebusinessdistrictwasworthyofanewtown.Fifteenbuildingslinedthemainstreetinlate
April;theyincludedthreesaloons,twostores,twoeatingandlodginghouses,andahayyard.With
eightfamiliespresent,lumberwasreadyfortheconstructionofaschoolandbutchershop.Apost
office,atlonglast,wasestablishedinlateMay,thoughabuildingapparentlywasnotreadyfor
servicerightaway.Then,inJune,aprintingplantwasreportedonitswayfromLosAngelesto
publishapaper“undertheeuphoniousnameofCalicoPrint.”Astagenowbeganmaking62‐hour
directtripsfromLosAngeles;thefarewas$10.Onewriterobserved18“heavilyladen”teams
boundforthetownonasingleday.Assummerbegan,Calicoembraced20buildingsandmany
tents;atFishPondsStation,twopartnersweremakingadobebricks,formudhousesatCalico
“willmakecoolandpleasantresorts....”Ahotelwasnowrising,andasaloonandanotherhotel
wereplanned.
Theboomshowedtwofaces:therawnessofaminingcamp,thevigorofaminingdistrict.
ThegenteelMrs.Harwood,forexample,calledthedistrictoneofthemost“cheerless,
desolate,uninviting”placesshehadseen.Theareawascrowdedwithaboutadozenwomenand
300men,manyofwhomsleptintents,afewunderthestars,andothersunderoverhangingrocks‐
‐anythingtoshelterthemselvesfromthefuriouswindsaridscorchingsun.Yetonly70men
workedinthemines,and30othersworkedtheirownclaims.
CalicoresembledTombstone,Arizona,orBodie,California,tosuither.“....Nightsand
Sundaysthestreetsarethrongedwithmen,whoareofallgradesofintelligence,andallqualities
ofcharacter;someinpointofdecencybeingbelowthebrutes.Theyrunriotintheirlusts,and
alreadysomeofthemostdisgracefulandaudaciousproceedingshaveshockedthesensibilitiesof
respectablemenandwomen....”
Trueenough.ButCalicohadcomealongwaysincethepreviousJuly(1881),asthePrint
pointedout:“....Ifoneyearhasmadesodecidedachange,whatmaywenotexpectduringthe
next12months?Frompresentappearanceswehazardtheopinionthatereanotheryearshall
haverolledaroundourlittlewoodenvillagewillhavegivenplacetoanactive,butbustlingmining
town,secondtononeinthisoranyotherStateorTerritory.Surelytherichnessandnumberof
minesdemandit.”
ThePrintwasabitpremature.Summerbroughtintenseheat,asusual,andanepidemic.The
foundersofthenewspapersrefusedtoleave.AndbyearlySeptember,thediseasehadrunits
course,theweatherwaspleasant,andtravelwasagainincreasing,for“itislikelythatforsome
monthstocometherewillbeatremendoustidesettingthisway....”E.E.VincentoneofthePrint's
founders,fannedtheboomwhenheshowedaLosAngeleseditorspecimens“sorichinsilverand
sofreefromgritorothersubstancesthattheycanbewhittledwithaknifewithoutdamagingthe
edge....(Theeditorwasreferringtosilverchloride,or“hornsilver,”whichhastheconsistencyof
hardcheese.)Againthemineswereinoperation;againthetownwas“alivewithbusiness.”
WhenyoungHermanMellen,then15,arrivedwithhisfatherinlateSeptembertobuildmine
works,Calico,halfbuildings,halftents,made“quiteashowing.”Inarestaurant,thetalk“sounded
asifatleasthalfthedinerswerewealthymentowhomafewthousandsofdollarswereamere
35
bagatelle.Whileweate,millsandroadswereplanned,railroadslaidoutandnewcampsstartedas
thoughsuchthingsweremereincidentsoftheday'swork....”
Thetownstillremainedfairlysmall,withperhaps300residents.Yetitsupporteda
flourishingbusinessdistrict.AmongthebusinessesinOctoberwerethreehotels,anewpostoffice
(partofastore),thenewspaper,atleastfourgroceryandgeneralstores,aliquor‐cigarstore,a
meatmarket,asaloonortwo,threerestaurantsorboardinghouses,awoodandwaterdealership,
besidesalawyer,notary,shoemaker,barber.
AreporterforthePrintwasproudofwhathesaw.LiningMainStreet(October)werethree
hotelsandsevencottagesorothercomfortablehomes;theoccupantsranassayingofficesoutof
theirhouses.NearthelowerendofthestreetstoodtheCalicoHotelandarestaurantcalledThe
ThreeGraces‐‐itwasmorelikeaboardinghouse‐‐whichwasrunbythreewomen,includingthe
wifeofmerchantJosephM.Miller.Thetrioalsosoldbreadandpies.Fartherupwasthenotorious
HyenaHouse.TheHyenaHousewasnoordinaryhostelry.Itwasbuiltinthehollowofalargerock.
Theoutsidewascasedwithbarrelstaves,anditsroomswereholestherock.ItflewanAmerican
flag“andharborsuntamablepatriots,includingtheunterrifiedDickHooper,whowasnever
defeatedinanargument,fromthediscussionoftheDarwiniantheorytothatofthelateOhio
election....”NeartheheadofMainStreetstoodthePioneerHotel,thefirstinCalico.Itwassaidto
havethebestlocationandofferthebestaccommodations.
Awidevarietyofretailersadvertisedgoodsandservices.ThePioneerGroceryStore,inthe
postofficebuilding,offeredgroceries,miners'supplies,andmedicine.E.J.Miller'sPioneerMarket
soldfreshbeef,hams,andbacon.J.M.Miller,whoreceivedweeklyshipmentsfromSanFrancisco,
offeredfinewines,liquors,andcigars,besidesfreshMilwaukeebeer.AlfredJames,another
merchant,soldKernRiverflourandHerculesgiantpowder(dynamite),whichhestoredina
powdermagazinebuild“atconsiderableexpense.”AdjoiningtheJamesstorewasthetentstoreof
theJ.A.Kincaid&Company.Therearofthetent,22x44feet,wasoccupiedbythemanager's
family;thefrontwasfilledwithshelvesandcountersholdingtheusualgroceriesandmining
supplies.NowonderyoungMellenconsideredthepricesforfoodreasonable.G.D.Blasdel,a
capitalistandfriendoftheMellens,rantheGlobeChopHouse,whereJohnDoylekepthisbarber
chair.MichaelRedmanrepairedbootsandshoes.
Butwaterwasexpensive,aboutfiveto10centsagallon.Evans&Phelpssupplied“fresh
wateratreducedprices”fromwellstwomileseastoftown,nearthedrylake.Evenwithcareful
use,Mellenrecalled,onepersoncoulduseonedollar'sworthinadayortwo.
CalicowascivilizingrapidlywhentheMellensarrived.TheReverendCharlesShilling
conductedthefirstChristianserviceinlateOctoberattheJamesstore.Theaudience,numbering
15to20men,fivewomen,andseveralchildren,listenedattentivelytothe“eloquentdivine,”who
sawthemeetingasthestartof“anewerainthehistoryofCalico.”Moredowntoearth,politics
occupiedtheattentionofmany,PostmasterW.L.G.Soulewasrunningforjusticeofthepeace;John
Overshiner,publisherofthePrint,wasrunningforconstable.(Helost.)
EducationalsooccupiedOvershiner'sattention.When20childrenwerefoundtobelivingin
town(October),thepaperdemandedaschool.Afteracensusfound93childrenofschoolage,
probablyinearly1883,thecountysupervisorsestablishedtheCalicoSchoolDistrict.Instruction
beganfor58pupilsinasmallbuildinglackingfurniture,atleastatfirst.Still,itwasastart.
Overshinerlaterservedontheschoolboard.
36
Calicoinfactcouldbeafairlyhomey,family‐orientedcommunity.WhenChristmasof1882
approached,ayoungstoreclerkasked.afriendoftheMellenstocookalargeturkeyhisparents
wouldbesendinghim.Shecouldinviteasmanyfriendsasshewished.Buttheturkeyspenta
weekintransitandtheweatherwaswarm.Notwantingtohurttheyouth’sfeelings,she
commandeeredallthecannedturkeyofftheshelvesofherhusband'sstore.Theturkeywas
delicious.Nobody,certainlynottheyouth,wonderedhowonebirdcouldhave12drumsticks.
ButtheseasononlybroughtmiserytoHermanMellen.Thewinterandspringof1883were
unusuallycoldandcruel.Flusweptthecamp;drugsranout;manyresidentsdied.Hislungsnearly
useless,Mellencoughedandstrangledforendlessdays.TotherescuecameMrs.AnnieKline
Townsend(MellenmistakenlyrememberedherasMrs.BelleMurdock),awomanprospectorand
mineownerwhosecabinstoodnexttotheirtent.Shesentoveracoughsyrupmadeofsalt,
vinegar,butter,onionjuice,andhoney.Itworkedlikeacharm.Itwassopotentthatamisdirected
squirtofitonceetchedthebarrelofashotgunownedbytheelderMellen.
Exceptforthisnewepidemic,Calicowas“fairlystartedontheroadtoprosperity,”declared
theColtonSemi‐Tropicatthestartof1883.Miningwasincreasing,roadswereunderconstruction,
amill‐‐theOriental‐‐wasalmostreadytorun,arailroadhadjustbeencompletedneartheMojave
Riverandadepoterected,buildingshadbeenenlargedandotherswereplanned,storeswere
gettingstock,travelwasincreasing,thehotelsandlodginghouseswere“doingagoodbusiness;
andinshort,allthevariousbusinessenterprisesinthisvicinityaregraduallygrowingin
importance,andwemaysafelypredictthatbeforemanymonthstheminingoperationherewillbe
extensive,andwillsupportalargeandflourishingtown.”
Indeed,thefrontierdaysweregettingtobeathingofthepast:governmentwaswell
representedonseverallevels.TheCalicoareawasaminingdistrict,schooldistrict,voting
precinct,andacourttownship.Asacourttownship,Calicowasentitledtoelectatleastonejustice
ofthepeaceandconstable.Amonggovernmentofficials'weretheconstableandjusticeofthe
peace,whocoulddoubleascoroner'sdeputyorschool‐censusmarshal,perhapsadeputysheriff,
electionworkers,aminingdistrictrecorderanddeputy,apostmaster,adeputyU.S.mineral
surveyor,school‐boardmembers,andateacherortwo.Thechiefofficialsinacamptendedtobe
thepostmaster,justiceofthepeace,constable,andsecretary(administrator)oftheschoolboard.
Roads&Rails
THELOGISTICSforsupplyingevenasmallcamplikeCalicowerefairlyelaborate.Tworoutes
passednearthedistrict:theoldwagonroadfromSanBernardinoandaSouthernPacific.Railroad
linebeingextendedfromMojaveStationtoNeedles;thelineopenedupCalicotothebusinessof
LosAngeles,Bakersfield,andSanFrancisco.
Thewagonroad,whichwasoffairquality,waslinedwithsupplystations.Rogers,nearthe
latersiteofVictorville,evensupportedapostoffice(Desert),oneofthefewintheMojave.Near
thefuturesiteofBarstowwasGrapeVineStation,whereE.J.Millersoldminingsuppliesand
generalmerchandise.FishPonds,ontheMojaveRiver,betweenthelaterfuturetownsofDaggett
andBarstow,wasfranklyadelight.Theriverbottomwascoveredwithcottonwoodandmesquite
trees.Sloughsintheriverwerefilledwithsmallfishandwildducksinseason.
Travelovertheroadcouldbeheavy.AaronHarrisonwasrunningexpressandpassenger
stagesfromSanBernardinotwiceaweekinlate1882;theymadethetripinadayandahalf.And
37
theKingMinewouldhaulinallsupplies,feed,andhayfromSanBernardinoandsendout20tons
oforeadaytoamillatOroGrande.Thisimmensefreightingenterpriseemployed17menand130
mules.
Consideringtheheavyamountoftraffic,theSouthernPacificlinearrivednonetoosoon.The
extensionwascompletedpastWaterman'sStationbyOctober.Andanagentoftherailroadbegan
interviewingCalico'sresidentsaboutthesiteofaproposeddepot.Thecomingofrailroadservice
elatedCalico'scitizens;they“hadthehonorofattendingaball”atWaterman's.Theballoffered
“excellentmusicandafinecollation.Allenjoyedthemselvesinthemazydance;wewishwehad
beenthere,”wroteaneditorofthePrint.Thecitizenswouldnotbedisappointed:inNovember,
trainsbeganrunningtothenewdepot,CalicoStation,ontheMojaveRiver,aboutsixorseven
milesfromtheminingcamp.(CalicoStationwouldberenamedDaggettinearly1883;Waterman's
becamethenucleusofBarstow.)
TheconstructionoftheSouthernPacificlineredirectedCalico'stradeforawhile,awayfrom
SanBernardino.Evenbeforetheline'scompletion,J.M.Millerwasbringingingoodsforhisstore
fromSanFrancisco,aSanFranciscodealerwasofferingtobuyare,theJamesstorewasselling
KernRiverflour,andtwoBakersfieldbusinesses,includingabank,wereadvertisinginthePrint.
RuggedIndividualists
DURINGHISTWO‐AND‐A‐HALFYEARSinCalico,youngMellenlearnedhowmuchhopeful
men,“withnoothercapitalthanstronghandsandthewilltodo,”coulddo.
Thelargestgroupoftheseindividualistswas“chloriders”or“tributers,”independentminers
wholeasedthemanyclaimswithinfivemilesoftown.Theypaidfortheirownsupplies,sacking,
hauling,andmillingandpaidthemineownersaroyaltyofaboutone‐fifththevalueoftheore.
(Perhapsbecausesomanyminerslivedattheoutlyingproperties,thepopulationofCalicomade
uponlyasmallpartofthedistrict'spopulation.)
Twoofthedistrict'smaverickswerewomen.Onewasthe“ladyassayer,”Mrs.C.H.Cooke,the
wifeofanassayer.AsMrs.Harwoodfound,Mrs.Cookehad“spentthegreaterportionofherlifein
themines,andfeelsmostathomeamongthepreciousmetals....”EvenbetterknownwasMrs.
AnnieKlineTownsend.Thoughwell‐educatedandraisedinluxuryinMississippi,Mrs.Townsend
supportedaneight‐year‐olddaughterbyprospecting;shesometimestraveledupto25milesa
day.ShehadtobeginworkatCalicounderanassumedname‐‐perhapsthisiswhyMellencalled
herBelleMurdock?‐‐for“shehasbeencensuredandcriticizedbynumbersofweak,dependent,
effeminatecreatures,whocouldcompeleverywomantoconductthemselvesaccordingtotheir
ideasofpropriety....”Mrs.HarwoodconsideredMrs.Townsend“asuperiorwoman,whose
exampleisworthyofemulation.”
Mrs.Townsendwasalsoconsideredagoodminer,asareporterforthePrintlearnedwhile
strollingamongthemines,includingherGolcondainSeptember,1883:“....Whileenjoyingthe
hospitalityofMrs.TownsendinherneatandcomfortablecabininDeepcanyon,wewereshown
anoresackfullofbeautifulspecimensfromtheGolconda,someofwhichcontainbrightparticles
ofwiresilver.Mrs.Townsendcarefullyassortsallherownoreandhasbecomequiteapractical
expertinminingbusiness.”
38
TheCalicoPrint
Calico'snewspaper,thePrint,wasalmostasresponsibleastheminesforputtingthedistrict
onthemap.ThechieffounderwasJohnG.Overshiner,31,anitinerantprinter.Overshinerwas
wellprepared,arrivingwithtwotypesetters,twopressman,andajobprinternamedE.E.Vincent,
hispartner.TheplantincludedtypeandaWashingtonhandpress.Becausethetypearrived
“pied,”ormixedup,thefirstissuetotaledtwosmallpagesand,thoughdatedJuly8,appearedfour
dayslate.Thepaperthengrewtofourpages,24x36inches.Thenamewasdisplayedinbold
letterswithareproductionofthesealofCaliforniainsertedbetweenthetwowords.Thefirstpage
wasdevotedtoadvertisements,boilerplatefeatures,andpoetrythesecondpagegivenoverto
stateandlocalnews,thethirddevotedtolocalnews,andthefourthtoads.One‐yearsubscriptions
cost$4.
Overshiner'seditorialwasamodelofclarityandhumor:“....Apprehensivethatthecasual
observeroftheheadingofthissheetmightthinkthatitwasapieceofcommonfabricsoldat
fourteenyardsforadollar....‐‐wesimplysay,‘ThisisaNewspaper.’Itisnotanorgan.Itwillnot
beusedtogrindoutsomefavoritetuneorhobby....Weshallendeavortofurnishoursubscribers
apaperthattheywillbeproudof,andtakepleasureinsendingtodistantfriends...Wewillassure
youitscolorswillneverfadesolongaswereceiveageneroussupplyofthe‘color’thatisbeing
dailytakeninabundancefromsomeofthemanyrichminesofthedistrict.”
Duringthenextfiveyears,thePrintwouldserveasthecommunitynewspaperoftheMojave
Desert,faithfullyreportingthenewsofIvanpah,Mescal,Providence,andotherdistricts.For
reasonsthatarenotclear,OvershinermovedthePrintseveraltimesbetweenCalicoandDaggett.
ThepublicationdaywasalsomovedtoSunday.
BismarckCamp
CALICOGAVERISEtoanimportantsatellitesettlement:BismarckCamp.
ThecampwasacreatureoftheBismarckMineandwaslocatedinanareadubbedEastCalico.
DespitetheheatofAugust,1884,about250menweresaidtobeworkingaroundthemine,where
“somewhereinOrientalcanyonweexpectatowntospringupthatwillviewithCalico....”The
mineitselfwasemploying20menandsendingout10tonsoforedailytoHawley'smill.
About100menwereemployedatthecampinDecember,for“quiteavillage”wasinfact
·springingup.Thesettlement's25buildingsincludedtwogoodhotels,astore“doingaprofitable
business,”andasaloon“underconstruction.”
Mines&Mills
AFTERLATE1882,thehistoryofthetownbecomessketchy:onlyafewissuesoftheCalico,
Colton,andSanBernardinonewspapersexist,andothersourcesprovidelittleinformation.
Butotherpublications,wellpreserved,givedetailedaccountsofthegrowthofminingand
millinginthedistrict.
Allduringthefallof1882,asSouthernPacificconstructioncrewsnearedthedistrict,
capitalistswerebuildinguptheirproperties.Awaitingtherailroadandorebuyers,onemine
39
stockpiledoreworthupto$125aton.TheBismarckpackeditsoretotownonburrosfor
shipmenttoOroGrande.InEastCalico,adozenmenwerebuildingaroadupthecanyontothe
OrientalandOccidental.AttheKing(December,1882),theMellensandtheircrewcompletedan
enormoustramwaytrestlejuttingfromthehillsideandfinishedalongchutethatcarriedoreto
hugebins.WhentheMellensfinallydumpedsomeoredownthechute,“wehadeveryman,
womanandchildoutinthestreetlookingupatthemountain.Afteramomentofsilence,they
salutedintrueAmericanfashion,withamightycheer.”
Throughoutearly1883,roads,tramways,chutes,andmillsweregoingupeverywhere.A
boilerandenginewereinplaceatthesiteoftheOrientalmill,neartheriver.Thelaborforces
werestillfairlysmall,aboutfourto16,butthedistrictaboundedinsmallmines.
Yetseveralofthesecompanieswouldbuildsubstantialworks.TheMammoth(May,1883)
hada600‐foottramwayandacartrackrunningtoa200‐lionorebin;theSilverOdessa,
meanwhile,hadagood,comfortablebunkhouseandboardinghouse.Underconstructionwerea
road,orebins,andturntable.AsthePrintreported,all“theboysinthecampareatwork....There
isworkforallherethatwillwork,andwehavenouseforbums.”Workwasadvancingsorapidly
thatbyMay,the“roaroftheorecarsascendinganddescendingthechute,andtheloudreportsof
blastscanbeheardatthemineatallhoursoftheday”asseveralcompaniesblastedawaybluffs.
TheSilverKingMinewasindeedmonarchofthedistrict.Onereporterpredictedthatits
outputwould“eventuallyplaceitforemostamongthegreatminesonthePacificcoast....”The
Kingwassendingout20tonsoforetoOroGrandedaily.Despite115‐degreeheatinJuly,1883,
theworkforcerosefrom40to55inonlyafewweeks.TheOroGrandemillwasturningout
$50,000inbullionamonth;the100thbarwascarefullypackedupandsenttoMilwaukee,the
homeofthelargestgroupofinvestors.Inearly1884,HuesThomasandJohnC.Kingbroughtto
SanBernardino18“immense”barsworth$31,570‐‐theresultofa14‐dayrunofthemill.The
Indexbraggedthatcitizenscouldview“thisimmensedepositofsilverbullion,”thelargest
shipmentofbullionsentfromSouthernCalifornia,attheexpressoffice.Bymid‐February,the
King'sshaftwasdown600feet.
Bynow,early1884,about300minersandchloriderswereatwork.
Thoughtheplantsweresmall,processingorewasasbiganactivityasmining.In1883,
Hawley'smill,eightmilesfromtown,hadshippedout$300,000inbulliontoSanFrancisco,and
theOrientalmillhadsentout$200,000insilver.In10months,theOroGrandemillhadturnedout
$400,000inbullionfromtheKingalone.
Noteventheburningofthebusinesssectionhinderedthedistrict'sadvance.ForasthePrint
observed,“thebusinessmenhadthefullestconfidenceinthestabilityofthecamp.Evenwhen
theirbusinessplaceswereinashestheirconfidencedidnotslack,”andtheyrebuiltcompletely.“..
.Thetownisnowlookingsubstantial,livelyandprosperous....Calico'scolorsarenotthekind
thateasilyfade.”Infact,familieswerepouringintothedistrict.
ThePrintwasevertheoptimist.ItmusthaveexpressedthefeelingsofmanyinMay,1884,
whenitdeclaredthatatnotime“hasthecampappearedaslivelyasatthepresenttime.Allthe
principalminesarelookingwellandworkingtheirfullcomplementofmen,whilethechloriding
elementisdoingawonderfulworkinthedevelopmentofpropertythatayearagowasconsidered
relativelyworthless.Byslowdegreesourprospectorsarebeginningtorealizethateverysquare
yardofgroundwithinthemineralbeltmustbeinspected....”
40
Technologywasnowbeginningtospurtheboom.Theconstructionofseveralsmallmillsand
therailroadhadbeenastart.WhentheDaggettSamplingWorksstartedupinJune,1884,with
goodresults,thePrintpointedoutthattheDaggett‐Calicoareawasbecominganimportant
businesscenter.“....Ourmerchantsandbusinessmenshouldawakentothesituationandbe
preparedtomeetthedemandsofthetradethatwillbecenteredherefor150milesaround.A
bankshouldbestartedhereatonce,forabusinessof$100,000monthlyrequiresit.Theseare
solidfacts,assolidastheponderoussilverbarsthataredailydumpedintoourExpressoffice.”
TheKingwasinthevanguardofmakingimprovements.Itconsideredaplantolayapipeline
fromCalicodrylaketoareservoirinthehalls,fromwhereitcouldbepipedintotown.Assoonas
polesarrived,theKingwouldbuildatelephonelinefrom,Daggettanditsmilltoitsmine.Italso
plannedtolayapipelinetocarryoilfromDaggetttoitsmillandinstallanenginetooperatelathes
andothermachinerytomakerepairs.(Apparently,onlythephonelinewasbuilt.)
Certaintraitsofthedistrictrequiredlabor‐savingdevices.Foronething,miningdidnot
slackenduringthesummers,asitdidinotherdesertareas.Inoneweekaloneduringthesummer
of1884,Wells,Fargoshippedout$12,775inbullionfromtheKing,$5,287fromtheGarfield.The
shipmentsthatseasonnetted$155,470.
Then,too,chloriderswereaforcetobereckonedwith.Whentheleasesof20chloriders
expiredatonemine,“thelifeandactivityexistinginthatvicinityduringthesummer”diminished
greatly.Thechloridershadtakenout$40,000worthofore,ofwhichtheypaidtheowner$9,000.
Insomecases,theseindependents“threw$75rockoverthewastedump,asitwouldnotpaythem
wagesaftertheyhadpaidalltheexpensesofmining,hauling,andmillingtheore....”
Chloriderscouldbenotoriouslywasteful.Onesolutionwasamillwheretheycouldprocess
theirorecheaply.AndthatmillwouldbeBarber'smill,builtjustbelowthetownsite.Afoundation
andpartoftheframeworkwerebuiltinlate1884;aprivatehome,lodginghouse,boardinghouse,
superintendent'soffice,andassayofficewereunderconstruction.Atestrunofthemachinerywas
madeinDecember“togeteverythingingoodrunningorderbeforecommencingonthehundreds
oftonsoforepiledupontheplatform....”Twomonthslater,Barber'smillwasrunningallthe
timeon“custom”(outsiders’)ore.Theplantwascalled“oneofthemostcomplete,bestarranged
andbestmanagedsilvermillsonthecoast,ofitssize.”Themillevenhadagood,abundantsupply
ofwater.FivemorestampswereaddedinMarch.
Becauseofthedistrict'sruggedterrain,theminesweregroupedintoseveralcanyonsabove
town.Here'showthedistrictshapedupinlate1884:
THEWESTCALICOmineslayseveralmilesnorthwestofcamp.TheWaterlooandSuewere
thechiefproperties.TheSueoperatednearthetopofthewallofadeepcanyon,500feetdeepin
place.Anarrowtramway,nearly300feetlong,rannearlystraightup;carsnamed“GoDevils,”
poweredbyahandwindlass,carriedoretothecanyonfloor.There,buildingswereduetoreplace
thetentsusedforlodgingandboarding.
THEEASTCALICOminesoperatedtothenortheastofCalico,inGarfield(sincenamed
Odessa)Canyon.Includedwereseveralmoderateproducers:theGarfield,SnowBird,Odessa
(SilverOdessa),Blackfoot,andBismarck;slightlytothewestofthecanyonlaytheThundererand
Occidental.Theterrainwassoruggedthatoresweresaidtobe“virtuallyquarriedoutofthehills.”
41
The(Silver)Odessamadeespeciallygreatprogressduringearly1885.Thenewlybuiltore
binscouldhold140tons;a300‐footchuteledtoasolidlybuiltorehouse,which“isvery
pleasantlysituatedonaprominentridgefromwhichpointtheoreassorters,onafervent
summer'sday,cangazeuponthehazylandscapebetweenCalicoandDaggett,andrelievetheir
eyeswitharefreshingviewoftheplacidsurfaceof‘DryLake.’....”Fromtheorehouse,where20
menworkedsortingore,a600‐foottrackledtothemaintunnel.
TheEastCalicominessupportedlargeforces.Inearly1885,theBismarckemployed24men,
theGarfield20to30,andtheOccidental34(March).
IMMEDIATELYNORTHOFTOWN,ontheslopesofWallStreetCanyonandonnearbyKing
Mountain,weretheOriental,BurningMoscow,andSilverKing,amongotherproperties.Itwas
saidthatto“knowtheKingistoknowthedistrict....”Overlookingtown,attheheadofMain
Street,theKingwouldremainthedistrict'sleadingproducer.Itwaspayingasmuchas$30,000a
monthindividendsinearly1885andhadproduced$702,650inbullionfromearly1884tomid‐
1885.Thepropertyhadproducedsomuchore,ironically,thatseveralofits100workershadtobe
laidofftogiveitsteamsachancetomove3,000tonsoforethathadaccumulatedonitsdumps.
Onewriterpraisedthis“excellentmine”forhavingbeen“unceasingly,quietlyand
unostentatiously”operatedbytheOroGrandecompanyfortwoyears;theminewasbeing
“cautiouslyandsystematicallydeveloped,”thoughthedistrict'sdepositsingeneralweregouged
outmorethanmined.
TheKingwasquiteahiveofindustry.Themen,whoreceivedacustomary$3.50ashift(of
ninehours),workeddayandnight,evenonSundays.Themenwerefreetoboardwherethey
pleased,“promptnessandsobrietybeingonlyrequiredbythecompany.”Theoperationconsumed
onetonofcandlesamonth,thecompanypaid$20,000amonthinwages,andwaterusedfor
drillinganddrinkingandtimber(broughtfromArizona)costtheconcernheavily.
Workingconditions,however,werefairatbest.Thelowerlevelsweresowarmthatcandles
burnedrapidly.Dustfilledthemainandsidetunnels.Anorecarwouldraiseacloudofdust“that
theinitiatedwouldthinkmustbeunhealthful”tominers.
TownLife
CALICOPROBABLYCAMEOFAGEduring1884.Reminiscencesandscatteredissuesofthe
Printandotherpublicationsrevealarichsocialandbusinesslife.
CONSIDERCALICO'SPOLITICS.Thecampgainedoutsiderecognitionduringthecampaignof
late1884.GroverClevelandwasrunningagainstJamesG.Blaineforthepresidency.Onthe
regionalfront,R.F.DelValle,aDemocrat,wasrunningforCongressagainstRepublicanH.H.
Markham,anofficialoftheOroGrandeCompany.
TheissueinCaliforniawasappropriateforaminingstate.Foryears,hydraulicmininginthe
SierraNevadawaspouringsiltintotheSacramentoValleyandruiningprimefarmland.Inthe
courts,thefarminginterestswerewagingasuccessfulbattletoseverelyrestrictthemining
operations.DelVallesidedwiththefarmers,Markhamwiththeminers.
DelVallearrivedfirst‐‐alone‐‐inlateOctober.Hiswasthefirstappearancemadebyanymajor
candidateincampandwasitsbiggestevent.Abrassbandhadjustbeenorganized,andthe
42
Democratshadspent10daysinpreparation,stringingChineselanternsoverMainStreetand
attachingtorchestobuildings.
DelValle'sappearanceturnedouttobeastrangerally.The“excellentmusic”providedbythe
bandconsistedofonlypartofonelivelytunerepeatedseveraltimes‐‐itsentirerepertoire.And
chairmanLevi(Pa)Pennington,arestaurantownerandencyclopediaofDemocraticPartyhistory,
wasrepeatedlyinterruptedbywags‐‐Republicans?‐‐demandingtoknowaboutsomeremote
politicalevent.Happily,DelVallewastooseasonedacandidatetoallowthisroutinetocontinue.
HefinallyinterruptedPenningtonandaskedhimtoexplainsomeobscurepoint.Penningtonwas
onlytoohappytodeliveranotherlecture.TheresultwasthatPenningtonspokeformorethanan
hourandDelVallespokeabout20minutes,mostofthetimecomplimentingPenningtonand
praisinghisknowledgeofpartylore.DelVallenodoubtgainedmanyfriendsandvotes.
ButMarkham,whoarrivedafewdayslater,enjoyedagreateradvantage.Hefavored
hydraulicminingandspokeinaminingcommunity.Healsoarrivedwithaconsiderable
entourage,includingalltheRepublicancandidatesinSanBernardinoCounty.Italsohelpedthat
mostoftheregion'snewspapers,includingthePrint,werestalwartRepublicans.
Markhamwashailedasahero,accordingtoacorrespondentfortheLosAngelesTimes.
Markhamspokefroma“tastefullydecorated”platformtoanaudienceof500,madeupofminers,
theirwomenfriends,andvisitorsfromSanBernardino.“...Torchesandlanternsmadethenear
vicinityoftheplatformoneblazeoflight.Abrassbandandfinegleeclubmadeenliveningmusic...
.”Theaudience“listenedpatientlyforthreehourstoRepublicanclaimsandlogic.Thecheersand
applausethroughoutthevariousspeechesforcesonetothinkthatDemocracyneverwassosolid
hereasit’ssupportersclaimed.Onethingiscertain‐‐Democracyhasbeenrunningacampaignof
liesandmisrepresentationinCalico....”
Markhamwoneasily,butClevelandwaselectedpresident.CAfewmonthslater,the
DemocraticClubgaveaballtomarkCleveland'sinauguration.TheRepublicanPrintconcededthat
there“wasalargeattendanceandeverybodyhadaroyalgoodtime.”).
Othervisitorsofnoteweremakingthetownitselfknowntotheworld.WhenFrederickW.
Smith,anagentfortheMining&ScientificPress,traveledalongthesingle“narrowandserpentine
street”inlateFebruary,1885,hewasatonceamazedandappalled.Smithwasnotthefirst‐‐nor
wouldhebethelast‐‐toremarkuponthetwo‐sidednatureofthecamp.“...Small,hastily‐built
housesaretheorderofbuildings,onlyafewtwo‐storyhousesgracingthecamp.Saloonsaremore
thannumerous.Businessgenerallyisoverdone,andthenumberofblack‐legsandtin‐horn
gamblersthatinfesttheplaceisremarkedbythenewcomer....TheOccidentalandWhitfield
Housearetheonlyhotels,andtheyarepushedtotheirutmostcapacitytoaccommodatethetravel
thatisarrivingdaily.Thecampisagoodone,butatpresentisoverestimatedandovercrowdedby
menoutofmoneyandwork.Capital,developmentandachanceisallthatthiscampneedstobea
secondeditiontotheComstockatnogreatdistantdate.”
Happily,thecostoflivingremainedmoderate.Coldbeercostfivecentsaglass;watercost
threetofivecentsagallon.Woodsoldfor$10acord.Boardcost$7to$8aweek.
AsSmithnoted,businesswasindeedoverdone.
Therewas,forexample,noshortageofsaloons.InDaggett,QuinnandSutcliffewerebuilding
atwo‐story,12x16‐footadditiontotheirbreweryinFebruary,for“theirbusinesshasbeenbetter
43
duringthewinterthantheyhadanticipatedandtheyarepreparingfortheexpectedboominthe
summer.”InCalico,StockingandMartinwere“doingapavingbusinessretailingliquortothe
miners,andmanyademijohnisfilledwiththeardentdaily.Theirliquor,100proof,issolddirect
fromthebarrelandiswarrantedasrepresented.”Onlyweekslater,thepartnerswere“meeting
withsuccessintheirretailliquorbusinessbeyondtheirmostsanguineanticipations.Theydidnot
expectinsuchashorttimethattheirsampleroomswouldbethesceneofsomuchanimationas
thecrowdsofminersfileinandout,showingbytheircountenancesthesatisfactiontheyfeel[by]
partakingofliquorsthatareunexcelledinthelocalmarket....”DuringFebruary,theirsaloonhad
takenin$1,490,or$53aday,
Andsoitwent.Othersaloonsopenedorexpandedorreportedgoodbusiness.Kirwinand
FlynninMarchenlargedtheirsaloonagain,adding40feettothefront.“...Theysparenopainsto
maketheirhallattractive,andfurnishofeveningfreemusicwithorgan,violinandother
instruments.”
Thehotelswerealso“alldoingalivelybusiness.TheOccidentalhasbeenfulltooverflowing
sincethedayitopened....anditstablefilledwithdayboardersbesides....”TheWhitfieldHouse
wentinforelegance.Thedoorswere“grained,”gemstoneswerepaintedonthebaseboards,and
wallpaperandpaintlaidon.Averandahextendedfromthesecondstory,thefurnishingswere
“excellentineveryway,”andtheroomswereconsidered“brightandcheerful"‐‐eachevenhada
ropeand‐anchorfireescape.(Nottobeoutdone,theOccidentalsoonaddedaverandah,too.
Thecamp'sthreegeneralstoresfaredalmostaswellasthehotelsandsaloons.J.A.Johnson
boughttheJamesbrothers'storeinMarchandmovedinmerchandiseandpostofficefixtures,for
whicharoomhadbeenprepared.TheJ.M.Millerstorewasenlargedby20feet,andmerchandise
wouldbemovedinfromitswarehouse.Thoughitwouldbetakenoverbycreditors,RemiOlivier's
J.A.Kincaid&.Companyhadbeenexpandeduntilitwasnow75feetlong;itwas“packedwith
goodsfromoneendtotheother.”
Calicoalsosupportedaricharrayofsmallerbusinesses.AMrs.Elliottfurnishedicecreamfor
picnics,balls,andotherentertainments.TailorA.S.Mettlermade“suitsthatfit,atpricestosuitthe
times.”AttheGlobeRestaurant,Mrs.M.F.Oswaldcookedmealsatallhoursfor100boardersa
day.MillsuperintendentGodfreyBahtenandstageoperatorWilliamCurryownedbutchershops
inDaggett,Grapevine,andCalico.Duringlatewinterandspringof1885,Curryslaughtered279
headofcattle,140sheep,and80hogs,allvaluedatabout$10,000.SouleandStacy,whooncekept
thepostoffice,soldwatches,clocks,jewelry,andsewingmachines.Twosaloonownersbuilta
largebathhouseformenandwomen.AtleastthreelawyersandfourdoctorspracticedinCalico.
Thoughnearlydeaf,oldDr.A.R.Rheaturnedouttobethemainstayofthecamp'smedical
profession,deliveringmostofitsbabiesandaidingthevictimsofmineaccidents.Onedoctoralso
ownedadrugstore.
ItinerantbusinessmensupplementedtheofferingsofMainStreet.Aphotographersetupa
largetentinMarchtakingpicturesofthetown,school,muleteams,andmines.Repairstotheteeth
wereprovidedbyadentistfromSantaAna.
DAGGETT,MEANWHILE,wasflourishing.Schooldistrictswereorganizedthereandin
Needlesthatspring(1885).Overshinerservedasoneofthethreetrustees.Daggett'sresidentsand
businessownerstookgreatpainstoenlarge,remodel,andpainttheirbuildings.Perhapsbecause
DaggettwasneartheMojaveRiver,treeshadbeen‐‐orwerebeing‐‐plantedinfrontoftherailroad
hotel,asaloon,arestaurant,astore,andseveralhouses.NeartheQuinn&Sutcliffebrewery
44
awningsandtreeswereaddedsothattheplace“willbeapleasantplacetositonasummereve's
andquaffthefoamingbeverage....”FreighterJosephLeCvr,whowasalsodeputysheriff,
refurbishedhishome,builtapicketfencearoundtheyard,andplantedtreesandshrubs.Assoon
asDaggett'strees“growtoconsiderablesizeandthegardensareinamoreflourishingcondition
thetownwilllooklikeaverdantgarden,”thePrintpredicted.
THEENVIRONMENTinvitedsomemodification.ThePrintbelievedthattreescouldgrowin
Calico;theyoungcottonwoodsinfrontofamerchant’shousewere“flourishingandbidfairto
becomesplendidsunshades.”Thetemperaturehit104degreesinlateMay.ThePrintquippedin
July:“AsanexampleofhowhotitisinandaroundCalicowewillrelatethefactthattwolizards
wererecentlyseenonthedesertintheactofstandingontheirhindlegsmakingashadeforthe
othertocooloffunder.Firstonewouldstandupandthentheother,spellingeachother.Next!”
(Still,thearidclimatehaditsadvantages,asthepaperremarkedthatspring.ThoughCalico
“hashotsandcolds,herfeverandpneumonias,hersnakesandtarantulasandcentipedes,andno
endtoillsthatminingcampsareheirto,sheenjoysperfectimmunity”frombedbugs,atleast.)
CALICODEVELOPEDsomeinstitutionstomakelifemorepalatable,ifnotquitecomfortable.
Afteranotherepidemicinthewinterof1884‐1885,asanitarycommissionwasorganized.It
apparentlyprovedtobeineffective.AslateasMay,1885,thecampremained“positivelyfilthyin
somequartersandtheaccumulationofnastinessisontheincrease.Onlyafewdaysagowe
observedadeadturkeyswelteringinthesun,butweknewhewastherebeforewecamewithin
sightof‐him,forthebreezetoldournoseaboutit‐‐fumigate,fumigate.”
Self‐governmentprovedevenlesspopular.InFebruary,1885,thecitizens“satdownrather
incontinently”onaproposaltoincorporateCalico.Thepropertyownersandtaxpayersseemedto
feelthatcityhoodwould“provetooexpensivealuxurytooffsettheadvantagesoflocal
government.”
ItwasnotthatCalico'scitizenswereapatheticaboutpoliticallife.Theyenthusiastically
supportedallvarietyofcandidates,maintainedaschooldistrict,andcertainlyturnedouttovote.
Duringanelectionforminingrecorder,396voteswerepolledforthreecandidates.
Butexceptfortheschool,thecamp'scitizenspreferredtoletafewprivateorganizationsand
thecountyprovidebasicservices.InMarch,theboardofsupervisorsdeclaredthedistrict'schief
roads,includingMainStreet,publicroutes.Acountyroadsupervisoratoncebeganremoving
rocksandbrushandwideningMainStreetandtheroadtoEvansWell.“...Byalittlecareonthe
partofthecitizensthestreetscanalwayshaveatidyappearance,”thePrintpointedout.
Theroadswereindeedheavilyused.TwostagelinesmadedailytripsfromDaggett.H.E.
Evans,thewaterdealer,begansellingcoal.(AphonelineranfromDaggetttoCalico,butitsuse
wasapparentlylimitedtotheOroGrandeCompany.)
Waterservice·wouldremaininprivatehands.SeveralmerchantsorganizedtheCalicoWater
WorksCompanyinMarch,1885,andsoonbegansinkingawell.Goodwaterwasreachedat92
feet;apumpand60,000‐gallontankwerelaterinstalled.
POSTMASTERE.E.STACY,oneoftheorganizersofthewatercompany,wasresponsiblefora
lessorthodoxformofdelivery.Onemorningin1883,Stacyfoundastrayblack‐and‐white
45
shepherdathisdoorstep.StacyadoptedhimandnamedhimJack(oneaccountgivesthedog's
nameasDorsey).ThepostmastersoonfoundthatJackwouldwillinglyandreliablycarrymailina
saddlebag‐likepouchonhisbackandputhimonaregular,two‐orthree‐mileroutetothe
Bismarckmines,whereStacyhadapartner.At9everymorning,JackwouldleaveBismarckwith
mailandtakeittoCalico,wherethepouchwasremoved.Until4:30intheafternoon,“Jackisadog
likeallotherdogs,rompingandplayingwithhisfellowdogs,andtakingpartwiththemintheir
amusements....”Butwhenthemailbagwasputbackon,“thedogdisappears,andinhisstead
standsabeingofsuperiorintelligence'whoknowshisdutyanddelightsinthecorrect
performanceofit....whenlittlecursrunoutandoffertofighthimheonlylaughs.Jack'sdaily
routineteachesagreatermorallessonthanallthesagesbetweenhereandHalifax.”
OVERSHINERneedn'thaveworried.Calicowasacivilizedcamp.
ONEOFTHEINFLUENCESwasreligion.Caliconeverhadachurch,butserviceswereheld
often.ManyCatholicslivedaroundCalico.LecturesgivenbytheReverendFatherCookinearly
1885“werelistenedtowithmarkedattention.Theeruditepriestseemedtosatisfytheaudience...
.”Weekslater,alargecongregationheardtheReverendCharlesShellingofRiverside,who
“preachedaninterestingandpracticalsermon.”Oneclergyman,theReverendD.McCunn,wasso
activeinculturalaffairsthatwhenhepreachedhisfarewellsermoninJuly,his“friendsbadehim
farewellwithmanyexpressionsofGodspeedandwishes....”
ExceptperhapsforthePrintitself,theCalicoschoolprobablyhadthebroadestinfluenceon
thetown'smorallife.Perhapsbecauseofthedistrict'sisolation,teacherswerehardtokeep.
TeacherA.L.Hamilton,whostayedonlyfourmonths,reported65pupilsenrolledinMarch,1885,
and65otherchildrenincamp.Perhapsnotsurprisingly,citizensvoteda$3,000bondissuein
Apriltobuildalargerschoolandorderedalibraryof60volumes;severalbookshadalready
arrived,andtheboardwasexpectedtoletthepublicusethelibraryunderrulesitwouldadopt.
ThePrintfeltthattheschooltrusteesdeserved“greatcreditfortheefficientmannerinwhichthey
conductedtheelectionandfortheirexcellentreportonthesubject...Calicowillsoonhavea
splendidbuildinginwhich'Torearthetenderthoughtandteachtheyounghowtoshoot.'“When
theschooltermendedinearlyJune,about46childrenhadregularlyattended‐‐anexcellentrecord
foraminingcamp..
Calicowasnohavenforweather‐beatenbachelorminers:youthsmadeupalargepartofthe
population.AndthePrintdotedonthemandtheiractivities.Thepaperwashorrifiedtoreport
thattheconstable'ssix‐year‐oldsonhadbeennearlycrushedtodeathwhenamuleknockedhim
underalargeorewagon.Happily,suchpainfulincidentswererare.Whenamansawtwoteen‐
ager'splantingstakesandstretchingoldpiecesofwirearoundasectionoftrail,oneofthemtold
himthattheywerefencinginalot.But,thegentlemanobjected,theboysweretooyoungtohold
realestate.“Youbetwecan.Ifanybodytriestojumpmylot,I’llshoothim,surepop.”ThePrint
grewmistyeyedwhenitlearnedthatyoungBrunettLamountainwasbuildingaminiaturestamp
mill“thatworksperfectlyastheOroGrandeoranyothers....Suchprecociousnessshouldbe
encouragedandassisted.”Afewweekslatercamethereportthatthe“miniaturequartzmill
erectedandrunbytheJuvenileCompanyofLamountainandCo.,runningnicely.Twoadditional
stampshavebeensetupandalargerboilerplacedinposition.”
ATOWNHALLnurturedfamilylife.Spendingabout$760,thewomenhadthehallbuiltin
early1885.Byrentingthebuildingoutforlectures,dances,andentertainments,thetreasurer
reportedinApril,thetownhallassociationwouldsoonbefreeofdebt.
46
Thetownhallwaswellused,sometimesonceortwiceaweek.Severalleadingcitizens,
includingoldDr.Rhea,organizedaliteraryanddebatingsocietyinFebruary.Thegroupusually
meteveryFridayevening.SincethePrintconsideredsuchanorganization“abenefittoany
community,itishopedthatthepeoplewillgiveattendanceandhelptosustainit.Theladiesare
especiallyinvitedtoattendandtotakepartintheexercises.”Thesocietydebatedsuchtopicsas
thevalueofacollegeeducationandtherightofIndianstovote.Thesocietysoonattracted20
membersandcreatedacommitteetoorganizethefestivitiesforJuly4.
Butingeneral,thehallwasdevotedtoentertainment.Thetownhallassociationgavea
musicalandliteraryentertainmentinMarchtoraisemoneyforthehall.For50cents(25centsfor
children),membersoftheaudiencecouldenjoy16performancesonenight,includinganItalian
hymnsungbyachoir,duets,readings,recitations,songs,andpantomime.Adancecappedoffthe
evening.Exceptforuncouthnoisesmadebyboysintherear,theprogramturnedouttobea
resoundingsuccess.
Calico'scitizensknewhowtoenjoythemselves.Thewomengavea“bowieknife”
entertainmentinJune.Afewweekslater,atravelingsoloist,girldancer,andimpersonator
performed.
Butdancingwasthechiefpastime,asthePrintexplainedinMay,1885:“WhenCalicowantsto
danceshedoesn'tgotoanygreatfussaboutsendingbellringersandtowncrierstoannouncethe
fact.Shesimplyhiresthemusic,plantsherselfintheTownHallandawaitscomingdevelopments.
Developmentssoonmaketheirappearanceintheshapeofbroadcloth,diagonal,etc.
DevelopmentsseemtolikeitaswellasCalico.”
Thatsameweek,theemployeesoftheSilverOdessaMinegaveaballinthediningroomofthe
boardinghouse.Fromtown,“merrimentseekers”arrivedinbarouches,chariots,gigs,rockaways,
buggies,andothercarriages,danceduntil3o'clockFridaymorning,“andeverybodyhadagood
time.”
Daggettwasequallyfestive.Itevensupportedagleeclub.Calico'sresidentswouldflockto
Daggettlikefliestofood.Atalavishballheldattherailroadhotel,thedinnerfeaturedhalfadozen
largefrostedfruitcakesandotherpastry.Thedance,asusual,lasteduntiltheearlymorning,“and
everythingpassedoffsmoothlyandhappily....”
NexttoChristmas,July4wasthemostfestivedayoftheyear.Daggett'sresidentshelda
picnicpartyatHawley'sStation,whichofferedsports,adancingpavilion,beautifulshadetrees
alongtheMojaveRiver,andgreenfields,“whereallthedenizensofthesunburnedhillsofCalico,
anditssurroundingscanfindperfectenjoymentinaday'srecreationinthecountry.”AtCalico,the
womenoftheliterarysocietyputonacelebrationthatwould“eclipseanyprevious
demonstrationsonthatday.”Calico'scelebrationincludedthecustomaryoration,thereadingof
theDeclarationofIndependenceandpoetry,andmusic,dancing,games,exercises,and
refreshments“sothattheoccasionwillbeamostinterestinggaladaywheneverybodycanhavea
goodtime.”
TheJuly4celebrationstillfailedtosatisfymenandwomenlivinginableakenvironment.
“Nowthatthe4thofJulyisathingofthepast,whatarewetodonexttoamuseourselves?We
wouldsuggestamoonlightpicnic,insteadofhavingoneindaytime:swelteringunderthehotrays
ofoldSol.”
47
ENTERTAINMENTCOULDBEquitephysical.Ataliterarysocietymeeting,amateurathletes
jumpedduringtheevening.Meanwhile,inMay,the“baseballhascomeforthfromitshidingplace,
andispitchedandtossedpromiscuouslybythebaseballartists.”
CalicowasespeciallyexcitedbyaboxingmatchinMarch.Severalhundredpersonspaid$1or
moretowatcha“glovecontest,toafinish”betweenDanConnorsofBostonandFrankSmithof
Chicago.Afterskirmishingduringround1,theyfinallystartedthrowing“someverylivelygiveand
takeblows.”SmithclosedinandthrewConnors.ButConnorswasbettertrained.Duringthethird
round,itbecameclearthatConnorswouldexhaustSmith,who“cameupratherlow”duringround
7.ConnorsthengaveSmith“astunningblowonthemuscleoftheleftarm,”renderingituseless.
ConnorshitSmithonthejaw,knockinghimdownandoutin10minutes.Connorswonthegate
receiptsofabout$268,buttoshowhisgoodfeelingtowardhisfoe,hegavehim$25incash.
CALICOHADITSROMANTICSIDE,TOO.Asthedaysbecamewarmer,apartyofpicnickersleft
forHawley'sStation,wherea“moonlightdancewillbe,nodoubt,asenjoyableasitisromantic...
.”Meanwhile,thatMay,severalmenandwomenvisitedacaveneartheOrientalMineand“spread
achoicecollectionofediblesbeneaththeroofofwhatonceprobablyisanancientmine.Someof
themalepicnicerssaythatatriparoundthehillsanda'romanticdinner....isthebestkindof
amusementandrecreation.”
ThePrintwasnotabovemakinglightoftheromanticscene.“Time,midnight;scene,Wall
Street;manandwomansoftlystealingupthestreet.Maninstockingscloselyfollowingbehindin
theshadowoftheabruptside,unobservedbypartiesinfront.Partiesinfrontpause;manbehind
stops;andherewedrawtheveil.”
Romancecouldleadtoonlythingone,asthepaperobservedinJune:“Nowthatthemarriage
boomhasbeeninaugurated,itisinorderthattheboyskeepitgoingingoodstyle,(providingthe
girlsarewilling).”
Twopersonswerewilling.AfterMissMollieTurnerandWilliamKirwingotmarriedinthe
townhall,everyonemovedtoahouse,wheretheyateanddrankto“thehealthandprosperityof
thehappypairin'avariedassortmentofcakeandwine.Congratulations,handshakings,andsome
kissing,(bytheladies)wereindulgeduntilnearlymidnight,whentheguestsdeparted....During
theeveningKirwin&Flynn'sSaloonwasopentothepublic,andsowasalltheliquidrefreshments
itcontained,everythingbeingfreegratisfornothing....”
BUTTHEDISTRICTcouldalsobefairlyviolent.TwoDaggettmenwerearrested,tried,
convicted,andfinedforfiringtheirpistols.“Pistolsareapttolanguishpeacefullyinthepocketsof
theirownersinthefutureunlessintendedforeffect....”AtaCalicosalooninApril,JamesJordan
stabbedPatOdayinthebackwithabutcherknife.Jordanhadbeendrinkingandtriedtosettlea
grudge.JordanwastakentojailinSanBernardino.
Butvicewasaproblemtobewinkedat.Calico'sbestcitizenswereshockedtolearnthat
JusticeE.S.WilliamshadorderedtheprostitutesoftheDanceHousearrestedagain.Theyquickly
petitionedthelocaldeputydistrictattorney,C.J.Perkins,togiveupprosecutingtheprostitutes.“..
.ItistheimpressioninCalicothattheabovecharactersarereceivingmorepunishmentthanis
duethemandthatitisnoworseforthemtoplytheir'avocations'onthemainstreetofCalicothan
itisforthedemi‐mondetoflourishonsomeoftheprincipalstreetsofSanBernardinointhemidst
ofrespectablefamilies.”
48
Crimecouldsometimesbeamatterbetweenfriends.MikeSullivanandJohnBrowngotintoa
fightwhileplayingpokerinAndyLaswell'ssaloononeSunday.SullivanaccusedBrownof
cheatingandgrabbedalltheirmoney,about$40,andstartedrunning.BrownovertookSullivan.In
thestruggle,Sullivanranhisarmthroughastorewindowandcutthemainarteryofhiswrist.
Sullivanwastakentoadoctor'soffice,wherehiswoundwasbandagedthoroughly.Sullivangave
upmostofthemoneythenextday.“Illgottengamesaredearlywon,”thePrintmoralized.
ONEOFTHEMOSTBIZARREINCIDENTStookplaceattheMayDayBallandStrawberry
Festival,heldatthetownhall.ThefestivitiesbeganpeacefullyenoughwithaMaypoledanceand
thecrowningoftheQueenoftheMay.Thatnight,teacherA.L.Hamiltonfoundhimselfsittingwith
oneofMrs.Harwood'sdaughters,Rose,enjoyingrefreshments.Abouttwodozencoupleswere
dancingtothrobbingmusicwhileCupidwasmakinghisrounds.
Troubleloomedabout2o'clockinthemorning,whenminesuperintendentJamesPatterson
wascalledoutside.Twofriends,JamesMarlowandW.E.Stoughton,accompaniedhim.Just
outside,thethreewerepeltedwitheggsandperhapsarockorsmallsandbag.
Pattersonsprangintoaction.Hechasedonedisheveledassailant,W.H.Foster,throughthe
hall,firingwildly.Dancersscattered,tableswereoverturned,themusicstopped.Areporterwrote
thatthe“sceneinthehallwasoneofconfusionanddistress,severalladiesfainting,allofthe
womenandchildrenbeinggreatlyalarmed....”Patterson'sbulletslodgedinthewallsandceiling,
eveninanearbyChineserestaurant.
Thecitizenswere“greatlyincensed.”FosterandMarlowwerearrested,thenreleasedonbail.
Injusticecourt,Fosterpleadedguiltytoassaultandwasfined$20;Marlowchangedhispleato
guiltyandwasfined$50;Stoughtonwastriedbyajuryonamisdemeanorchargeandacquitted.
BUTCRIMINALINCIDENTSwereminorcomparedtominingaccidents.Theytendedtobe
gruesome,ifnotfatal.Inmid‐July,minerJohnHalleyfellfromaleveloftheKingMineandwas
severelybruised;hewouldrecoverwithdifficulty.Dayslater,minerJohnMcDonaldwas.fatally
injuredwhilecheckinganunexplodedcharge.Theblastthrewuprocksandblewoutbotheves,
mangledhisarms,brokeoneleg.Doctorswerecalledatonceand“dideverythingintheirpowerto
alleviatehispain.”Aftersuffering“untoldagonies,”McDonaldsoondied.
TheDecline
ITISDIFFICULTtofixadateforthebeginningofCalico'sdecline.Ominoussignswere
appearingasearlyasthefirstmonthsof1885.Severalbusinesses,includingarestaurantandboth
stagelines,changedhands.Otherbusinesses,suchasMr.Elliott'sfruitandicecreamstandand
MissDerby'smillinerystore,closed.TheJ.A.Kincaidstorewasattachedbyitscreditors.
Bythen,themineswereextractingmostlylow‐gradeare.Sufferingfrom“hardtimes,”infact,
thecompaniesbegancuttingtheirminers'wages,to$3aday.ThePrintatfirstagreedwiththe
movebutlaterrealizedthatthecutswouldtendto“discouragegoodminers”andwouldforce
them“tostrikeoutforthemselves,hencemanyarebusyprospectingorchloridingonleases....
inexperiencedmenemployedinthemineswillalsobeinfectedwithadesiretobettertheir
condition....”InMay,Calicowas“becomingdullerandhottereveryday.Therearejustasmany
menatworkaseverbeforebuttheboysevinceadispositiontokeeptheircoinintheirpockets.”
49
Thoughthepriceofsilverhadjustjumpedtoahealthy$1.09anounce,thePrintwasalarmedthat
the“friendsofsilver”mightbe“lulledintoindifference.”
Thedistrictcouldnotaffordtobecomeindifferent.Thisperiodofmaturityandearlydecline
coincidedwiththeentryofasecondraillineintothedesert.ThelinewastheSantaFé‐backed
CaliforniaSouthernRailRoad,whichhadrecentlybeenbuiltfromtheSanDiegoareatoSan
Bernardino.AnextensionfromSanBernardinotoWaterman'sstation,65miles,wassurveyedin
early1885.Then,workingsimultaneouslyfromthetwopoints,armiesofwhiteandChinesedug
cuts,builtgradesandbridges,andlaidrails.NearWaterman’syard,roundhouse,depot,andhotel
wereerected.ThisoperationbecamethenucleusofBarstow.Theextensionwascompletedin
November.
Thecompletionoftherailroadcutthecostoffreightingtoandfromtheminesandprovedto
beaboonforSanBernardinoandLosAngeles.Butthefortunesofthedistricthadbecometiedup
inthefortunesofahandfulofmines.Thefaintsignsofdulltimesweregrowinglessfaintas1885
passed.TheKing'soutputof$302,000in1885wasdownsharplyfromthe$507,000producedin
1884.TheninMarch,1886,20to30menwerelaidoffattheRedJacketMineandseveralothers
werelaidoffattheKing.Thesedismissalsdepressed“thebusinessoutlook,”sentmanymen
“scouringtheadjacenthillsinsearchofprospectsonwhichtochloride,”andforcedotherstoseek
“otherclimes,butthoseremainingherearenotofthekindtositcontentedlyuntilsomething
‘turnsup,’”asacorrespondentexplained.
ThePrintwasbaffledbytheshutdownoftheKing.Thepaper'sfearswereallayedsomewhat
whentheKingquicklyrehired20men.Besides,alargereserveoforeattheKingwouldkeepthe
Waterloomillrunningfulltime;superintendentDedrickBahtenevenpredictedthat15stamps
wouldhavetobeaddedtotheWaterloo.“....Thereseemstobeageneralimpressionamong
businessmenherethattheliveliesttimesareyetinstoreforCalico....”
Then,too,othermineswerestillactive.TheKearsargeemployedthreemeninApril,1886,
theBurningMoscowandJessieTaysixeach,theBlackfoot14,theSue18.Thesesmallermines
gaveteamingaconsiderableboost.TheBlackfootandSueeachemployedtwoteams.TheCalico
FreightingCompanyofDaggetthad10teamsatworkandwasstilltwoweeksbehindinhauling
outtheunusualamountoflow‐gradeorewaitingontheminedumps.
ThelessonsofefficientmillingwerenotlostontheOroGrandeCompany.Itbeganerectinga
60‐stampmillinMarch,1887;itwouldcost$250,000.Thirtymenwereputtoworkgradingthe
foundation.Nexttothesitewasthe15‐stampmill.ItservedtheWaterlooMine,thenemploying
30men.ThetwoplantswouldprocessthemassivereservesoforeonthedumpsoftheWaterloo
andhandleorefromtheKing,BurningMoscow,andothercompany‐ownedproperties.ThePrint
waselated,seeingthereturnof“thelivelytimesofseveralyearsago,”forbusinesswasalready
“improvinginallquartersofthecamp.”Theschoolgrewslightly,to66pupilsinlateMay.
Afterallthemineshutdownshadbeenrationalized,afterallthepredictionsoflivelytimes
hadbeenmade,thesignsofdeclinewerebecomingmoreevident.TheoutputoftheKingfellto
$120,000during1886.Ascorporationscontinuedtotakeoverthechiefmines,regularminers
begantoturntochloridingorprospecting;othersdriftedaway.ThePrintfinallyhadtoconcede
that1886hadbeenthedullestinCalico'shistory.Thelayoffshad“causedagreatdepressionin
thebusinessofthetown,butstilltherewerebutfewfailures,andmostofthosepartiesengagedin
businessayearagoareyetconductingtheirenterprises....”True,thenumberofminershad
50
increasedsince1886,deputyassessorH.B.StevensestimatedinMay,1887,butonlybecausethe
numberofchloridershadoffsetthelossofregularminers.
Calicowasfullofsuchparadoxes,astherepresentativeoftheMining&ScientificPresshad
learnedseveralyearsearlier.AwriterfromtheOntarioRecordhadmixedemotions.Thougha
three‐footcottonwoodstoodoutastheonlytreeintown,Calicooffered“numerousopportunities
toget'wet.'Thetownhasanexcellentpublicschool,butvariousattemptstoholdchurchservices
havefailed;theminesandmillsrunonSunday,andtheCalicoPrint,anexcellentexponentofthe
mininginterests[,]isissuedonthatday....”Itwassaidthatitwouldtakeafour‐horsecartto
carryawayallthecardssweptoutofthesaloons,but“onthewhole,wethink,heprobably
exaggeratedalittle.WeshouldhardlyrecommendCalicoasthebestplaceinSouthernCalifornia
tobringupafamily,buttheconditionofsocietyisnotatallwhatmightbeexpectedevenfromthe
facts.wehavejuststated,”fordespitetheheavydrinking,“thereiscomparativelylittle
drunkennessandanyseriousbreachofthepeaceisrare....”
...
“Theaverageminer,asyouseehimbytheuncertainflickerofhiscandle,looksalittlerough,
butnoclassoflaboringmenisbetterinformed,readsmore,ortakesmoreprideintheir
intelligenceandinterestinpublicaffairs.Thedaysofpoetsandphilosophersintheminingshafts
arenotpastyet.Thesaloonandthegamblingdenaretheminer'scurse,butdrunkorsober,flush
orbusted,youwillusuallyfindshrewdsenseandkeenwitbeneaththeirrough[?]exterior.”
Likethecamp,themineswereaparadox.ThewriterfortheOntariopaperwasawe‐struckby
theimmenseworkingsoftheGarfieldMineinJune,1887.“....Thefirstsensationiscertainlyone
ofcoolness,cominginfromanatmosphereover100intheshade.Thedistantrumbleoforecars,
thefaintflickeroftheminers'candles,theclickofthepicks,andtheuncannyappearanceofthe
minersinthedimlight,madeaweirdeffectthatwillstampitselfindeliblyonthememoryofthe
visitor.Wethreadedpassages,exploredchambers,andwentdownshafts,untilthewritercould
havebeeneasilyconvincedthatenoughrockhadbeendugoutofthisoneminetomakeasecond
'OldBaldy.'....Wesaworethatyieldsthousandsofdollarstotheton,andamancouldmakea
fortuneinafewdayscouldhehaveallhedugout.”
Happily,chloriding,thesalvationofmanysmallminers,sustainedmanyresidentsduring
theseleantimes.AttheVetoMine,chloriderswerenetting$6to$10aday.Aftertheexpirationof
leasesattheSue,itwassaidthatnoneofthe15chloridershadbeen“makinglessthanordinary
wages,themajorityaveragingthreeorfourtimesthatamount....”AttheYoungWaterman,
independentminerswerepayingout$250amonthinroyalties‐‐one‐fifththeirearnings‐‐enough
toenabletheco‐ownertotakeatriptoEurope.Thesuccessofchloridingwasconsidered“an
incentivetootherstotrytheir'luck.’”OnDecember,1886,thePrintwouldpointoutthatoften
“oreisdiscoveredinplaceswhereminershavewalkedoverformonthsandyears,andrichstrikes
madeinmostunexpectedplaces....”
FewinthecampwereidleinearlyMay,1886.Theminerswerechloriding,workingfor
others,orprospecting.Thebusinesscommunityforesaw“unusuallivelytimeswithinthenexttwo
orthreemonths....”
Allthistalkwaswishfulthinking.Althoughitwasscarcelyrecognizedthen,thedistrictwas
dividingintotwocommunities,thechloridersandlargeminingcorporations,onepoor,theother
rich.Severalmills,suchastheBarber,processedonly“custom”ore‐‐thatis,materialproducedby
51
independentminers.TheWaterloo,incontrast,wouldprocessonlyoresfromtheminesownedby
theOroGrandeCompany,suchastheKing.
Chloridingkeptmanyemployed,butitcouldbeachancywaytoearnaliving.Custommills
couldchargeupto$20aton.Toprocessthemassivelow‐gradeorethatwouldnotpaychloriders
tomill,twoleachingworksoperatedatthefootofMainStreetinlate1886.Itwasexpectedthat
leachingwould“considerablyreducethecostofmining,andturnintobullionavastquantityof
orethathasaccumulatedonthenumerousdumpsduringthepastfiveyears,”thePrintreportedin
early1887,foralready“astimulatingeffectisbeginningtobefeltthroughoutthecamp....”In
May,chloriderswere“swellingthebullionoutputtoaconsiderabledegree....”
Asminingbecamemorecorporate,theprocessingoforecametobeconsolidatedatthree
mills.ThePioneerQuartzMill,soldtotheSilverOdessaMiningCompanyin1883,wasusually
calledHawley'smill.WhentheOroGrandeCompanyboughttheOrientalandSilverKingminesin
early1884,theconcernenlargeditsmillatDaggettto15stamps.Thisplantbecameknownasthe
WaterloomillwhentheOroGrandecompanywasreorganizedandrenamedinearly1889.Near
Calico,theGarfieldmill,of20stamps,becameknownastheKingwhenanEnglishcompany
boughttheplantandseveralgroupsofmines.
Theseplantsweremodernandefficient.Byearly1887,therevampedOroGrandeMillwas
usinghotwatertoforcepulverizedoreoutofthebatteriesofstampsandintothepans,wheresalt,
limestone,andmercuryseparatedoutthesilver.Twothousandgallonsofwaterwereusedto
crusheachofthe33tonsproduceddaily.AttheGarfieldmill,wherethevalueoforedroppedfrom
about46ouncesofsilveratoninOctober,1886,to26ouncesinSeptember,1887,theplant's
operatorsstillmanagedtocutthecostofprocessingconsiderably,from$4.52atonto$3.10.It
producedahefty417,215ouncesfromtheGarfield,Occidental,andotherminesbelongingtotheJ.
S.Doe&CompanyofSanFrancisco.
Suchdescriptions,however,onlymaskedsignsofdecline.Calicoremaineddullthroughmuch
ofthesummerof1887,“insomerespectseversincethelargeforceofmenweredischargedand
theKingminecloseddawn.TheKingminewastheprincipalsupportofthetown....”
Perhapsitwasmerelyacoincidence,butonemineexperiencedamajorrobberythatyear.
Afterpickingupthemonthlypayroll.$4,000incoin,thesuperintendentoftheRunOverMineand
MilllefttheexpressofficeatDaggett.Hewasridingalone.AshenearedWallStreetCanyon,aman
cameoutofagully,pulledoutagun,andtookthemoneyandhishorse.Itwastoolateintheday
toorganizeaposse.Therobberapparentlybecamelost,andasmallposseledbyanIndiantracker
foundhimatadistantwell.ThepossehadastrangestorytotellwhentheyreachedCalico.Miner
JohnAckerman,apossemember,contendedthatheshotandkilledtherobberinself‐defense,the
bodywasburiedatthespot,andthemoneywasmissing.Thelistenerswereskeptical,but
Ackermanwouldneverdiscusshisstoryagain.
Buttherewasaworsefiendthanabandit.
First,afiredestroyedthenearlycompletedWaterloomillonAugust14.Thecompanylaidoff
19miners,thenquicklyrehiredthemwhenitfoundthattheboilersandothermachinerycouldbe
salvaged.TheWaterloowouldbuildanothermill.Thedecisiontorebuildwas“veryencouraging
tothetown.”Meanwhile,themineswerenowsaidtobepayingwell,andthechloriderswereoften
“makingmoneyfast.”
52
AnotherfirehitCalicoafewweekslater,inSeptember.Theblazehadstartedonthedry
shingledroofoftheGlobeRestaurant.Thefireatfirstseemedtobeoflittleimportance,butthe
watersoonranoutandagustofwindcameup.Allbuttwobusinessbuildingswereturnedto
ashesinlessthananhour.Thelosseswereputat$100,000.
Thoughstunned,thecitizensrebuiltatonce.Itwasagreedthateverythirdorfourthbuilding
wouldbemadeofadobe.Thefirstadobecamefromthedrylake.Butthecitizenssoonwoundup
excavatingbasements,mixingthehardredclayofthetownsitewithwater,andpouringthe
mixtureintofarmstomakewalls.Cutrockwasalsousedtomakethefacadesofseveralbuildings.
Business“ofallkinds”wasquicklyresumed.Thewatersystemwasalsoimproved,abucket
brigadewasorganized,andbarrelsofwaterwerestrategicallyplacedalongMainStreet.
Butoneimportantbusinessremainedapermanentcasualty:thenewspaper.ThePrint
suspendedpublicationrightafterthefire.ThepaperhadbeensoimportantthattheMining&
ScientificPresshadtoacknowledgetoitsreadersthatitscoverageoftheMojaveDesertwould
suffer,atleastforawhile.OvershinermovedtoSanDiego,whereayearlaterhewaspublishinga
triweeklynewspaper.(Duringthenexttwodecades,Overshinerwouldputoutweekly
newspapersthroughoutthebackcountryofSanDiegoCounty,atRamona,Julian,andImperial.)
Itwaslatercontendedthatthefirehadhadasoberingeffectonthetown.Thedaysoffree‐
and‐easyspendingwereover.Thecorporations,whichcontrolledthebestmines,senttheirprofits
tostockholdersfarfromCalico.Familiesfled;theschoollostmorethanhalfitspupils,to30in
mid‐1888.Thenumberofregisteredvotersalsoslipped,thoughitremainedastill‐respectable
292.
Asthechloriderscontinuedtofeelsqueezed,thecorporationsadvanced.TheOroGrande
companystartedworkonaseven‐milenarrow‐gaugerailroadfromDaggetttotheWaterloo
Mine'sorebinsinMarch,1888.Therebuiltmillandtherailroadwerecompletedlaterintheyear.
TwosmalllocomotiveswouldeasecarsloadedwithoredownthegradetoDaggettandreturn
withsuppliesandtimbers.Thecompletionofthelinecutthecostofhaulingfrom$2.50aton(by
wagon)toaslittleassevencentsaton.
TheWaterloo'soperationswereawesome.Onestategeologistconsideredthemechanisms
forautomaticallyfeedingthepanssalt,limestone,andmercury“seeminglyperfect.”Fromarough
buildingbrightenedby150electriclights,anotherwriterfortheOntarioRecordobserved
(November,1888),came“alowrumble,likethedistantthunderofartillery;andinthepresenceof
suchweirdsightsandsounds,madedoublyintensebytheclearairandoppressivesilenceofthe
desert,onemightimaginehimselfinthepresenceofoneofVulcan'sforges.Allthis,however,is
‘thepeacefulhumofindustry;’...”A300‐horsepower,coal‐burningsteamengine,whichturneda
20‐foot‐diameterdrivewheelandadynamo,madethewriterfeel“abashedinthepresenceofso
muchpowerthatseemsalmostpossessedofhumanreason.”Intheroomcontainingthe60
thunderingstamps,the“noiseisterrificandthebuildinggroansandtrembleswiththejars....”In
fact,“onewouldnosoonerexpecttoseesilvercomeoutofthesepansofwhirlymuddywaterthan
topickorangesfromthestreetcornersignsinabustedboomtown.Itis'paydirt,’howeverand...
themillgathersupquitealittlemountainofsilverinthecourseofayear.”
Thetrainridefromthemilltothemineswasathrillingexperience.Thetrainconsistedof
fourcars,“binsweshouldcallthem,eachholdingninetonsofore.Perchedinoneofthesecars,
withthewaterbarrelssplashinginfrontofus,weweresoonwhirledoverthedeserttothefew
unpretentiousshantiesthatmarkthegreatestsilvermineonthecoast....”
53
Perhapsnotsurprisingly,thecorporateinfluenceonCalico'sminingIndustrycontinuedto
grow.TheOroGrandeCompanywasreorganizedastheWaterlooMiningCompanyinFebruary,
1889.TheconcernownedtheWaterloominesandmillandotherproperties,notablytheSilver
KingMineanditsmill.TheWaterlooCompanybuiltabranchoftherailroadpastthetowntothe
orebinsattheSilverKingMinein1889.Meanwhile,severaloftheDoeproperties,especiallythe
Odessa,Oriental,andOccidental‐Garfieldmines,weresold.Thenewconcernwasconfusingly
namedtheSilverKingMineCompany,Ltd.,ofLondon.TheGarfieldmill,20stamps,wasrenamed
theKingmill.
Theactivitiesoftheseandothercompaniesledtoamodestrevival.Familieswerereturning;
theschoolgainstudents,itsenrollmentrisingto40.Thecensustakercounted431men,women,
andchildrenintheareainmid‐1890,ofwhomanestimated300livedintown.Thebusiness
districtcontainedfivegeneralandvarietystores,foursaloons,threelodginghouses,andthree
stables.Telephoneandtelegraphserviceandtwice‐a‐daystageservicecloselylinkedCalicoto
Daggett.
Daggett
DAGGETT,ITWASREPORTEDwithsomeexaggerationinlate1888,comprisedseveral
houses,astore,and20saloonsliningasandystreet,“aconditionofthingsnotcalculatedtomake
theplaceexactlyaprohibitionstronghold.”YetthroughDaggettpassed$100,000inbullionfrom
Calicoeverymonth.
Daggett'slargebusinessdistrictmadeitanoutfittingpointforprospectorsroamingthe
MojaveDesertandDeathValley.In1890,when277livedinthevotingprecinct,thebusinesses
includeda“splendid”freightandpassengerdepot,largeeatinghouse,postoffice,expressoffice,
school,churches,andseveralgeneralstores.
Calico:Rally&Collapse
POLITICS,ratherthantechnology,providedthenextimpetusforgrowth.Asasoptothe
farmersandsilver‐mineownersoftheWest,RepublicansinCongresscynicallypushedthrough
theShermanSilverPurchaseActinJuly,1890.ByrequiringtheU.S.Treasurytobuyalimited
amountofsilvereverymonth,theactgaveapsychologicalboosttotheindustry.Thepriceof
silverrosefrom97centsanounceto$1.05.TheWaterlooandSilverKingcorporationsreopened
theirlow‐gradedeposits.TheKingMinewasshippingout100tonsoforeadaybySeptember,
1891,theWaterloo50tons.Threemonthslater,theSilverKingcompanyenlargeditsmill(theold
Garfield)from20to30stamps.
Butpolitical‐basedprosperitywouldbeshortlived.Thepriceofsilversoonbegantodip,to
88centsin1892.Consideringit“foolhardytoexhaustthegreatorebodieswhentheprofit...was
merelynominal,”theWaterloocompanycloseditsmineandmillinMarch,1892;120to150men
wereidled.
Butnoteveryonewasabouttogiveup.Afewchloridersremainedatwork(1892),theSilver
Kingmillcontinuedtooperatenightandday,andtheschoolremainedfullofyoungscholars.
Inthelongrun,though,continuingtominesilverorewouldbelikespittingintothewind.
Europewasalreadysufferingfromadepression.Fearingthespreadofmonetaryproblems,the
54
RepublicansforcedtherepealoftheShermanact.Monthslater,inmid‐1893,panicsweptthe
bankingindustryofthecountry.Railroadconstructionhalted.Thepricesofcommodities,from
wheattopigiron,slipped.AroundCalico,eventhechloridersvanished.Meanwhile,aftera
protractedsuit,theWaterlooandKingcorporationsmergedinmid‐1894.
Byalllogic,Calicoshouldhavediedthen.Butcapitalandlaborkeptuptheircourage.Inspite
oftheheatofJulyandthelowpriceofsilverin1895‐‐65cents‐‐theKing(Garfield)millcontinued
toreduce100tonsoforeadayfromitsgroupsofmines;thecompany'smineswere“looking
betterthantheyhaveforseveralyears....”Thestagelinewasstillmakingtworoundtripsaday,
andtheschoolhadjustfinishedthetermwith36childrenenrolled.ThoughCalico“boastsbuttwo
saloons,”itstillencompassedabarber,stationerystore,fruitstore,druggist‐doctor,shoemaker,
lodginghouse,machineshop,blacksmithshop,andaChineserestaurant.PostmasterH.R.Gregory
hadlivedinCalicosincethepioneerdays.Undauntedbythehardtimes,Thanksgivingwas
celebratedwithagrandballinthetownhall,a“fineturkeysupper,”andadanceuntildawn.
WhentheKingcompany'sminesandmillswereshutdownin1896,thetownstillclungto
life.Ahandfulofbusinessesservedanestimated100residents.Thepostofficefinallyclosedin
November,1898.Finally,theschooldwindledtofourpupilsandclosed.AstheRedland's
Citrographnoted,Calico“longagofellintodecay,andhasnowpassedentirelyoutofexistence.It
isnolongerknownevenasaschooldistrict,owingtoalackofschoolcensuschildren.Thelibrary
andotherbooksandrecordshavebeenreturnedtotheofficeoftheCountySuperintendentof
Schools.”
Thoughthetownwasdead,thedistrictexperiencedalast‐minuterevival.Twoveteransofthe
earlyboom,D.O.ConnellandMarcusPluth,leasedtheOrientalMillandWaterlooMineinApril,
1899,andshippedoutoreonthenarrow‐gauge.Theiroperationlastedafewyears.Thenthe
railroadwastornup;ConnellmovedmanyofCalico'sframestructurestoDaggettandthenew
townofYermo.
Caliconowpassedintotherealmoflegend.Old‐timerswhohadmissedtheboomcouldrecall
peakpopulationsof2,000,2,500,even4,000.Thetruenumberneverreallymattered.
Withinafewyears,visitorswouldbeginvisitingtheruins,snappictureswiththeirboxv
Kodaks,andhavepicniclunchesbesideadobewalls.WalkingupMainStreetin1908,geologist
W.H.Stormsrecalledthecamp'sheyday:“...Nightanddaythesoundofmusicandmirthcouldbe
heard.Thecheerfulcallofthehurdy‐qurdymanagerminglingwiththerattleoftheIvorychipsof
thegamblingtables....”
Stormscouldhardlybelievetheruinwroughtinonlyadecadeofdesertion.Adilapidated
pianostoodinacorneroftheolddancehall.“...Thesunstreamedintothedirtyroomthrough
greatholesintheroof.Theliningandgaudywallpaperwerehanginginfoldsliketapestrylong
neglected.Inthestoreroomoftheleadingstore,largeaccountbooksrevealed“manyoldfamiliar
names.”JakeKinghadboughtaplugoftobaccofor50cents;CharlieBeckwithhadboughtasilk
shirtfor$4.Severalsafeslayoutsidetheexpressoffice.Thedozenhousesliningthesilentmain
street“areinpossessionofthebatsandowls.””
SOURCES:RecollectionsofthediscoveriesappearinthePioneerCabinNews(SanBernardino
SocietyofPioneers,bulletin),1968,andinL.BurrBelden's“MechamsTellofCalicoSilverCamp
Discovery,”SanBernardinoSun‐Telegram,Oct.26,1952,p,22.Thoughindifferentlyedited,the
SanBernardinoValleyIndexcarriedinformative,oftenhumorousaccountsofthediscoveryand
55
earlyboom,1881‐1882.InthefewsurvivingissuesoftheCalicoPrint,thewriterspaid
considerableattentiontosocialandculturallife.Miningandmillingwerecoveredexhaustivelyin
theMining&ScientificPress,1882‐1917,especiallythroughlate1887,whenthePrintsuspended.
Thedeclinewascovered,somewhatsporadically,bytheRedlandsCitrographandtheSaturday
Review(SanBernardino)andbytheCaliforniaStateMiningBureau,Reports8(1888),9(1890),11
(1892),12(1894),and13(1896).
ThemoreonegetstoknowCalico,themoreoneappreciatestheboyhoodreminiscencesof
HermanF.Mellen,apparentlywrittenabout1940:HistoricalSocietyofSouthernCalifornia,
Quarterly,June,1952(v.34),pp.107‐124;September,pp,243‐260;andDecember,pp,347‐367.
Severalvisitorsandresidentswrotevividaccounts:Mrs.D.M.Harwood,“InterestingLetter,”
June9,1882,and“CalicoDistrict,”June16,1882,bothintheSantaAnaStandard;F.W.S.
(FrederickW.Smith),“CalicoDistrict,”Mining&ScientificPress,March14,1885,pp,173and180;
“OntheDesert,”June15,1887,“ADayintheMines,”June24,1887,and“ThroughtheWaterloo
MillandMine,”November21,1888,allintheOntarioRecord;andW.H.Storms,“ALonesome
Town,”American(LosAngeles)MiningReview,November14,1908,pp,10‐11.
Thoughitcontainsafewerrors,thebestoverallaccountofminingremainsanextensive,
abundantlyillustratedseriesbyastategeologist:F.H.Weber,Jr.,“SilverMininginOldCalico,”May,
1966(v.19),pp,71‐80;January,1967(v.20),pp.3‐8;andafollow‐uppiece,“SilverDepositsof
theCalicoDistrict,”February,1967(v.20),pp,11‐15,allinMineralInformationService
(CaliforniaDivisionofMinesandGeology).Fortheseries,Weberalsocompiledacomprehensive,
unpublishedbibliographyforthedivision:“BibliographyoftheCalicosilverdistrictandvicinity,
SanBernardinoCounty,California”(April,1966).
AlsoofinterestareseveralfeatureswrittenbyL.BurrBelden:“CalicoBoomsasCounty's
BiggestMiningCenter,”Nov.2,1952,p,24,and“LucyLaneHasVividMemoriesofEarlyCalico,”
Oct.8,1961,p.D‐6,bothintheSanBernardinoSun‐Telegram.
56
PROVIDENCE
IVANPAHFATHEREDOTHERBOOMS.AlongthesteepslopesoftheProvidenceMountains,
southoftheClarkdistrict,partiesofprospectorsfromIvanpahfoundextremelyrichsilverore
duringthespringof1880.Someoftherockassayedupto$5,000aton.
TherichestclaimturnedouttobetheBonanzaKing.ThispropertypassedintothehandsofJ.
B.Osborne,H.L.Drew,J.D.Boyer,andCharleyHassen,allveteranminingmenwhowouldfigure
prominentlyinthecounty'smininghistory.
Thougharichveinwasfoundinearly1882,theownersoftheBonanzaKingsoldtheir
intereststotheBonanzaKingConsolidatedMining&MillingCompanyofNewYork,whichpushed
development.Toservethe100to150mendevelopingthemineroundtheclock,apostoffice
namedProvidencewasestablishedthatJune.AndwhileSouthernPacificcrewswerebuildinga
trackacrossthedesert,teamswerehaulinginahoistingplantandmachineryfora10‐stampmill.
Byearly1883,Providencehademergedasarough‐and‐tumblecampof300residents.Many
housesweremadeoflocallyquarriedwhiterock[volcanictuff].Besidesthepostofficeandseveral
mining‐companyoffices,thebusinessdistrictembracedtwogeneralstores,twohotelswithlivery
stables,asaloon,andacontractor,blacksmith‐wagonmaker,deputysheriff,andU.S.mineral
surveyor.Providencehadalsobeendeclaredavotingprecinct.
Meanwhile,theBonanzaKingwasbecominganinvestor'sdream.Themill,whichstartedup
onJanuary1,1883,turnedout$61,744duringitsfirstmonthalone.Afew·monthslater,theplant
wasturningout2,000ouncesofbullionaday!Oretakenfromshallowshaftsyielded$573,376in
bullionbytheendof1883.BonanzaKingstockwassoonplacedontheNewYorkmining
exchange,andregulardividendswerebeingpaid.Whentheoutputreachednearly$1millionin18
months,superintendentThomasEwingexplainedthat“theBonanzaKingisbetteropenedup,
betterworked,andwehaveobtainedbetterresultsfromtheorethananyothermineinthisgreat
mineraldesert....”Infact,allthedistrict'sminescontinuedtoflourish.
FrederickW.Smith,arepresentativeofSanFrancisco'sMining&ScientificPress,wasamazed
fromthemomenthesteppedoffthetrainatFennerstationinearly1885.HetookYoung'sstage
andexpress‐‐thefarewas$4upand$3down‐‐laterjokingthatacanteenofwaterandalunch
wereneededtoendurethedreary,24‐miletripacrossthedesert.Worse,driver“Font”Williams
enjoyedterrorizingtenderfeetwithhair‐raisingtalesofthefrontier.
AndwhatagoldenharvesttheBonanzaKingwasreaping!Throughan800footmainshaft
cameorecontaining$100atoningoldandsilver.GrindingawayatCrowTown,amileandahalf
fromthemine,wasahighlyefficient10‐stampmill.About100menworkedatthemineandmill.
Butthe$20,000spentonwagesandsupplieswasoffsetbythemill'smonthlybullionoutputof
$35,000to$50,000.Bythen,themillhadproduced$1,500,000inbullion.
ButthecampremindedSmithofadullcompanytown.Besidesthepostoffice,thebusinesses
inearly1885totaledonlytwogeneralstoresandthreesaloons.Therewerenosaloons,asSmith
found:“...Amattressonthefloororonastorecounterisfirst‐classaccommodations.”Woodwas
plentifulbutcost$8acord;watertakenfromthecompany'swellcosttwotofivecentsagallon.
Meanwhile,anattempttoorganizeaschooldistrictfailed‐‐notenoughchildren.
57
Workingconditions,too,werenothingtobragabout.Thoughpaidpromptlyandincoin,the
menreceivedonly$3.50aday;boardcost$8aweek.Itwaslittlewonderthattheworkerswere
consideredhardworkingandsober:theBonanzaKingwouldfireanymanfounddrunk.One
workerlateraccusedtheforemanandashiftbossofbeing“heartlesstaskmasters”whoforced
employeestoworkmore“thantheirhealthandstrengthwillpermit.”
Allthistime,thepriceofsilvercontinuedtoslip.Afterpayingdividendsthroughearly1885,
thecompanysuspendedoperationsinMarch.
Whentheminereopenedaweeklater,the15menjusthiredhadtoacceptonly$3aday,acut
made“withreluctance,”inthewordsofacorrespondent,“owingtotheverylowpriceofbullion....
Itisquiteevidentthatitistheirintentiontopushtheworkingoftheminesmorethaneverbefore.
...Youmayconfidentlyexpecttoseealargeroutputofbullionthaneverbefore....”
Theretrenchmentworked,atleastforawhile.AdvertisingintheCalicoPrint,theBonanza
Kingcompanyhiredmenasfastastheyarrived:40menatfirsttoworkinthemine,35more
whenthemillstartedupafewmonthslater.Whilethemillwasturningoutanaverageof$60,000
inbullionamonth,thePrintenvisioneda“large,substantial,andflourishingcamp.”
Butanothercloudcametodarkenthissilverlining.Justafterturningout26barsofbullion,
the“beautifulandthoroughlyequipped”millburnedonJuly31,“notavestigeofthestructureand
itscontentsescapingdestruction.”Thecompanylaidmostofitsworkers,andthetown'sbusiness
wasexpectedtosufferconsiderably.Thoughcompanyofficialsstartedtorebuildthemill,even
clearingawaythedebris,theBonanzaKingremainedclosed;onlyafewsmallmineskept
Providencefromdying.
Finally,assuredthatthecoinageofsilverwouldcontinue,thecompanyreopenedtheminein
early1886.Assaysshowingexceptionallyrichorekept20to25menatworkdespitetheJulyheat.
AtthenearbyKerrandPattonproperty,GodfreyBahten,awidelytraveledminingman,builta
five‐stampmill.WhentheplantstartedupinJanuary,1887,“fromthefirststrokeoftheengineit
wasclearthateverythingwasinplace....”TherebuiltmillfortheBonanzaKing,however,
remainedadream,foritwascontendedthatthe“ownersareallrichmenandtheyarelikely
waitinguntilsilverbecomesafixedstandard.”
Thattimenevercame.CalicoandothersilvercampshadeclipsedProvidence;prices
continuedtofall.Thenumberofregisteredvotersplummetedfrom91to13inonlytwoyears.
ThoughJuanDomingowasrunningastagetoFennerthreetimesaweek,allthatremainedin
1887wereafewresidentsandbusinesses.TheKerrandPattonpropertyoperatedatleastuntil
1890andreportedlypaidgooddividends.Thepassagein1890oftheShermanSilverPurchase
Act,intendedtogivetokenrelieftomineownersandimpoverishedfarmers,atoncepushedsilver
to$1.05anounce.Butthepriceagainslippedtoitsearlierlevels.Providencepostofficeclosedin
May,1892.
Providence'sminesexperiencedseveralrevivalsduringthenextseveraldecades.TheTrojan
MiningCompanybuiltagasoline‐powered10‐stampmillandworkedtheminefrom1906through
September,1907.
Arousedbythisrevival,aMassachusettsfirmrebuiltthemillandputthemineinto
productionin1915.Thirtymenweresoonrunningtheoperationroundtheclock.Thepresenceof
fivefamiliesgavethecamp“amorecharmingappearance.”Utilitieswereprovidedbyanelectric‐
58
lightplantandawaterline.Twotrucks,meanwhile,madedailytripstoFennerstation.The
operationwasequippedwithgasolineenginesandthemostmodernhoistingandmilling
equipment.Withinafewyears,thecompanyhadreopenedshafts,to800feet,andwastakingout
veryrichore.ButtheArmistice(1918)soonbroughtadeclineinthepriceofsilver,to$1.01an
ouncein1920.ThecompanysuspendedworkinJuly.ThiswasProvidence'slasthurrah.
SOURCES:ThebestoverviewcanbefoundinVredenburghandothers,DesertFever(already
cited).TheColtonSemi‐TropicandtheSanBernardinoTimesandtheIndexreportedonthe
discoveriesandpioneeryears,1880‐1882.TheMining&ScientificPress,usuallyquotingtheCalico
Print,coveredtheoperationsindetail,from1882throughlate1887,whenthePrintfolded.The
handfulofsurvivingissuesofthePrintfor1885describeworkingconditions.
Boom‐timephotosofProvidencearelacking.Fortunately,thecamp'sruinsremainedwell
preservedforyears,asshowninAaronDudleyandAlvinFickewirth,“GhostTownoftheMojave,”
Westways,November,1941(v.33),pp.22‐23.
59
MESCAL
IVANPAHWASNOTTHEONLYSETTLEMENTintheClarkdistrict.SixmilessouthofIvanpah
wastheCambriaMine,variouslyknownastheMeskalorMollusk.TheCambriawasdiscovered
about1879andwasproducingoreearlythenextyear.
Thesiteitselfhardlylookedpromising.Onevisitorlaterdescribedtheapproachtothemine:
“...Thegreatmountainsoneitherhandwerebareintheirdrydesolation;...Occasionallyinsmall
gulches,ordepressions,orchardsofyuccagrewlikestuntedtrees....”Theoperationremained
nearlylifelessuntilWilliamA.McFarlane,apioneerofIvanpah,boughtthepropertyin1882.
TheMescalMinecamealiveinearly1885,whenMcFarlaneandhispartner,SimesA.Barrett,
hadaforceofmenatwork.Waitingtobemilledwasalargelotoforeworth$100atoninsilver
andgold.Meanwhile,duringashutdownatProvidence,severalminersandwoodcutterstrickled
intoMescal.
Gladtoseeprogress,theCalicoPrintreportedinJunethat“Mescalminingcamphas
commencedtoboom....”Withsevenoreightmenworkingatthemine,McFarlaneandBarrett
starteduptheoldIvanpahConsolidatedmill.About20packanimalsownedbyJohn(Juan)
Domingo,aProvidenceteamster,madedailytripscarryingore.Afewweekslater,inJuly,Wells,
Fargo&Companycarriedawaythefirstbullion,twobarsworthmorethan$2,000.“...Luckbe
withthem,theydeserveit....”
MescalentereditsmostproductiveperiodwhenMcFarlaneandBarrettleasedout,thensold,
theCambriatoacompanyof“shrewd”LosAngelesbusinessmeninJanuary,1886.Thecompany
soonhad10menatworkanddroveasecondtunnel;a350‐yardore‐cartrackledtoaroadbelow.
UnderBarrett'ssupervision,thecompanygradedasiteforafive‐stampmillnearMescalSpring,
whichproduceda“splendidsupplyofwater.”Domingo'sbigteamslaboriouslyhauledintimbers
andlumber.Themachinery,madeinLosAngeles,wasmeant“toshowSanFranciscothattheycan
erectasgoodamillasanyotherplaceonthecoast....”SupervisedbyMcFarlane,themillstarted
upinearlyDecemberandturnedoutfourbarsofbullionweighing5,000ounces;theyieldshowed
thatMcFarlane“keepsuphisreputationasafirst‐classmillman.”
Mescalhadbecomeacompact,well‐runcampbylate1886.AcorrespondentforthePrint
observed:“...Themillisathoroughlysubstantialoneinallitsparts.Theyhaveafineassayoffice,
overseenbythepainstakingassayer,Mr.L.A.Blackburn.Theofficesarecomfortable,andthe
boarding‐house,lodging‐house,etc.,showthattheylooktothecomfortoftheirmen....”Ahandful
ofmen,severalwithfamilies,livedinwell‐builtadobescoveredwithgoodshingleroofs.“Good”
minersreceived$3.50aday;“excellent”boardcost$8aweek.Asonevisitorwaslatertold,
“wagesweregood,worksteadyandeverybodywashappy....”
ProsperitycontinuedtosmileuponMescalforseveralyears.Allthrough1886,
superintendentL.A.Carruncoveredrichore.ThePrintremarkedthatthecompanycould
“congratulateitselfonthewaythemineisopeningup....”Themillwasproducingsomuch
bullion‐‐15,000ouncesinJanuary,1887‐‐thatCarraddedfivestampsafewmonthslater.Apost
officenamedNantan,awordapparentlyofIndianorigin,wasestablishedinMarch,1887.
Meanwhile,DomingowasrunningaweeklystagefromFenner,andastorewasinoperation.
60
Mescalapparently‐peakedin1887.Thepriceofsilverwasdeclining,fromanalready‐low97
centsanounceto94centsin1889.Fromthemine'stwo300‐foottunnels,themillwasprocessing
oreyieldingonly$20aton.Only12personslivedtherein1890;thepostofficeclosedthat
December.AccordingtoMcFarlane'sson,theMescalhadbythenproduced$250,000ingoldand
silver.
...
Theeffectoffallingsilverpricesproducedwhatmayhavebeenoneofthemostbizarre
incidentsinthehistoryofmining.Justasalongdepressionbegansweepingthenationin1893,a
silverdollarcontainedonly40centsworthofsilver.AccordingtoastorypublishedintheLos
AngelesTimesin1895,twoDenverbusinessmen,knownonlyasSpencerandDavis,soughtto
recoupthefortunes'theyhadlostinthedepression.Thoughdiscrepanciessuggestthatthestory
maybeahoax,atleastinpart,SpencerandDavissupposedlyboughttheMescal.Theybuilta
smelter,broughtinahand‐pickedcrew,andinstalledspecialmachineryatthebottomofadeep
shaft.
Themachineryhadonlyonepurpose:counterfeiting,thenanunusuallycommoncrime.
SpencerandDavissoonbegantakingouteachday20tonsoforecontainingatotalof800ounces
ofsilver,enoughtomint1,000phonydollars.Tightlypackedintohollowbarsofsilver,thecoins
wouldbeshippedouttocitiesandfenced.
Althoughthesilverdollarsturnedouttobeexcellentimitations,theirdiscoveryinahollow
silverbarledJohnE.Bennett,aSecretServiceagent,onapainstakinghuntforclues.Bennett
finallyfoundhispreyinthesummerof1893andenlistedtheaidofadetachmentofsoldiers.After
leavingtherailroad,Bennettandaguidefinally“turnedaroundasmallcone‐likehillandthere
beforeus,closeuponus,wastheMescalcamp.Itlayonaridgewhichmadeoutfromthemountain
intothevalley....Aboveontheboldsideofthehighroaringmountainwasthemine,itsgreydump
markingwithalightsplotchthedarkslope....”Bucketssuspendedonanaerialtramwaycarried
orefromtheminetothesmelter.Runningdownasteepslope,apipefromtheminefedapoolof
deliciouswater.Thoughvisitorswereunwelcome,Bennettcontrivedtohavehimselfstrandedin
thecamp.
OnemorninginAugust,BennettidentifiedhimselfasaSecretServiceagentandorder
Spencerandhiscrewtosurrender.Spencermerelysneered.“Pooh,youtalklikeafool.I’llhave
youtoknow,sir,thatitwilltakeabettermanthanyoutoarrestawholecampandshutdowna
mineonsuchafoolchargeasthat....”
Spencerhadalreadypreparedforsuchanemergency.JustasBennett'smenwereabouttocharge
overthehill,Spencerblewawhistle,andthemountaininsidebegantorumble.Anexplosionblew
Bennettandseveralothersofftheirfeet;boulderswentflying.Onemanwasfatallyinjured.Under
therubble,toodeeptodigout,werethedies,roller,andcounterfeitingpress.TakentoLos
Angelesfortrial,Spencer,Davis,andtheirsmeltermanwereacquittedforlackofevidence.But
theydidnotreturntotheiroldways.
...
Thecampitselffinallydiedofneglect.Acattlemancontinuedtousetheboardinghouse.But
heavysnowcollapsedtheroof,andtheshakeswerereplacedwithsheetironin1911.Themillwas
scrappedin1914.Themillmachinery‐‐thebuildinghadalreadybeentorndown‐‐wasscrappedin
1914.Theassayofficeremainedinfairconditionuntilastoryinatreasuremagazinereported‐‐
61
erroneously‐‐thatgoldcoinshadbeenhiddenintheadobewalls.Treasurehunters‐vandals,
really‐‐soonfinishedoffthebuilding.EugeneMcFarlane,theowneroftheproperty,
understandablydoesnotwantvisitorstothesite.
SOURCES:QuotingtheCalicoPrint,theMining&ScientificPresscoveredtheMescal'sdevelopment
indetail,1885‐1887.D.F.Hewett,inhisworkontheIvanpahQuadrangle(citedearlier),described
themine.JohnE.Bennettrelatedthefascinatingstoryofthecounterfeitingringin“TheMintAt
theMescalMine,”LosAngelesTimes,Dec.8,1895,p.14.Discrepanciessuggestthatthestory
mightbeahoax.AcheckoftrialsheldattheUnitedStatesDistrictCourtinLosAngelesforthat
periodrevealmanycounterfeitingcasesbutnodefendantsnamedSpencerorDavis.Thenames
mayverywellhavebeenchangedsincethecasesupposedlyresultedinacquittals.TheLos
Angelescitydirectoryfor1895,meanwhile,listsaJohnE.BennettasemployedbytheAssociated
Press.
62
BAGDADandtheORANGEBLOSSOMMINE
THECONSTRUCTIONOFTHESANTAFÉSYSTEMrequiredalengthysupplyline.Trains
routinelyneededtotakeonwaterandcoal,changeandfeedcrews,andputonextralocomotives.
Bagdad,asidingbuiltbetweenNeedlesandDaggettabout1883,provedtobeanidealsitefora
stop.ItlayatthefootofasteepgradeupAshHill.
Amoreforbiddinglocalecouldscarcelybefound.Ancientcinderconesandlavaflowsmarked
avolcaniclandscape.BagdadwasinthedriestpartoftheMojaveDesert,therainfallaveraging
littlemorethantwoinchesayear.Temperaturescouldreach119degreesF.(Ironically,abundant
waterlaybelowthesite.)
InformationaboutBagdadisveryfragmentary.Adepot‐telegraphoffice,coalbins,water
tower,andperhapsarestaurantmayhaveexistedasearlyas1888.Apostofficewasestablished
inMay,1889.About40to50personslivedatthestationduringitsearlyyears,mostofthem
railroademployees,suchasengineersandconductors;afewmenhadfamilies.Thetinybusiness
districtin1892embracedageneralstore,arailroadeatinghouse,andthedepot,whichprobably
housedthepostoffice,thetelegraphoffice,andaWells,Fargo&Companyagency.Thepopulation
doubledduringthenextfewyears,toanestimated80ormore.AtravelerfromSanBernardino
cameacrossaless‐thangenteelsceneinJanuary,1896:“AtBagdadisafreightcarriggedwitha
doubleroof.Inittheengineerlives.Hissweet‐facedlittledaughterstandsinthedoor,andhisdog
liesonthedoor‐step.Notrees,noshade;‐‐coalbunker,watertrain‐‐aMexicanvillageofahundred
inhabitants.”By1898,thetownalsocontainedastableandaHarveyHouse,arestaurant‐hotel
servingmostlyrailroadcrews,thougharoomortwowouldbekeptvacantforminingmenand
othertravelers.
Duringtheseearlyyears,thelackofwaterremainedaseriousproblem.Therailroaddrilleda
deepwellin1902,reachingwateratonly150feet.Butthewaterturnedouttobetoomineralized
forusebythecommunityorrailroad,andthewellwassoonabandoned.Allwaterhadtobe
hauledindailyintankcars‐‐16carsadayin1919,or168,000gallons.Thewaterwasrunintoa
cisternandthenpumpedintoanelevatedwatertank.Locomotiveshadtotakeonplentyofwater
andcoalbecauseofthesteepwestwardgrade.
Still,theresidentsmanagedtoadapttotheirenvironment.Onefamilywouldsleepinwet
sheetsonsummernightsandevenmanagedtoraisealushvegetablegarden.Astatelyrowof
palmsandatheltrees‐‐thelatteragiftfromavisitorappalledbythebleakness‐‐werealsoplanted.
Meanwhile,duringtheearly20thcentury,miningboomsbuiltupthestationsbetween
NeedlesandDaggett.FromAmboyandDaggett,roadsledsouthintotheDaledistrict.Postoffices
wereestablishedatDanbyandLudlow;schooldistrictswerecreatedatBagdad(1904),Ludlow,
andAmboy.
OfespecialimportancetothegrowthofBagdadwasthedevelopmentoftheOrangeBlossom
groupofclaims.TheclaimswerediscoveredbyanIndianintheBristolMountains,10milesnorth
ofBagdad.Todeveloptheproperty,JohnDenair,adivisionsuperintendentoftheSantaFéandthe
founderofatownnearModesto,organizedacompanyandsetoutonavigorousstock‐selling
campaign.WorkattheOrangeBlossomspeededupin1907,whenthemineshippeditsfirstore.
63
Themainactivitycenteredontheadjacentclaim,theOrangeBlossomExtension.Inmid‐
1908,thecompanybuiltaneight‐stampmillandacampmadeofpineandredwoodbuildings,well
painted,furnishedwithrunningwater,lightedwithelectricity.Thesettlementcomprisedanassay
laboratory,well‐furnishedoffice,boardinghouse,roominghouse,twosnugcottages,astable,barn,
andcorral.WaterwaspipedseveralmilesfromaBudweiserSpring.Belowthemineandmill,“just
farenoughsothatthemusicofthestampswillbesubdued.”theOrangeBlossomcompanylaidout
atownnamedHodgmaninearly1909.
Denairalsobuiltupmuchoftheregionalongtherailroad.AtAmboy,Denair'scompany
erectedaframelodginghouseforvisitorsandahugewarehouse.Anautomadedailytripstothe
mine.AtLudlow,Denairbuiltatwo‐storyconcretestore(stillstandinginlate1984).AtBagdad,
hebuiltoffices,corrals,alargestore,powdermagazine,cottage,bunkhouse,powerplant,evena
chickencoop.TheSantaFébuiltaspurtohandlesuppliesforthepowerplantandstore.Astage
lineandpowerlineconnectedtheOrangeBlossom.Twootherminingcompaniesownedcorrals.
Therailroadmaintainedthedepot,blacksmithshop,toolhouses,sectionhouses,pumpingplants,
evenaniceplant.Roundingoutthetownweretheschool,postoffice,HarveyHouse(withitsown
hogpen),andprobablyastore.(Afewyearslater,thecountyestablishedbranchlibrariesinthe
schoolandtown.)
ButatthesiteofHodgman,plansforcottages,alargehotelandgeneralstore,postoffice,and
otherbuildingsnevermaterialized.Themineandthenthemillshutdowninearly1909,andthe
OrangeBlossomcompanywentbankrupt.
ThesuspensionofworkattheOrangeBlossomdidnot“comeasasurprisetominingmen
whohadbeenkeptadvisedofdevelopments,”theLosAngelesMiningReviewcommented.“Itis
merelyanothercasewhereexpensivemillingfacilitieshavebeenprovidedbeforetheextentand
exactvalueoforebodieshadbeenascertained.Theworkofexplorationhadbeenallowedtorun
behindinamarkeddegreeand,asearlyassixmonthsago,itwaspredictedthatthemanagement
wouldsoonerorlaterbecompelledtoacknowledgeitsmistake.....”Still,thepropertymayhave
“realmerit,”andmoreintelligentminingmightuncover“largebodiesofpayore.”
ThecollapseoftheOrangeBlossomboomprobablysignaledtheendofBagdad'sheyday.Only
80personslivedtherein1910.True,travelerscouldstillgetwater,gasoline,meals,andsupplies
atastorein1917,butLudlow,only20mileswest,haddevelopedalargecommercialdistrict.In
themeantime,Route66,atfirstadirttrack,wasbeingbuiltthroughBagdadfromChicago.Afire
burnedmuchofBagdadin1918.ThentheSantaFédoubletrackeditslineandreducedthegrade
upAshHill;thereducedgrademadehelperlocomotivesunnecessary.Thepostofficefinallyclosed
inApril,1923,justastherailroadcompanywascompletingtherealignment.Happily,Route66
waspavedinthe1920's,andafewbusinessesgrewupalongthehighway.Theschoolmaintained
ahealthyenrollmentuntil1937,whenitandthelibrarybrancheswereclosed.Travelerscould
stillfindaccommodationsin1939,butonlyabout20residentsremained,incontrastto150at
Ludlowandnearly100atAmboy.
DuringWorldWarII,theMarineCorpsestablishedanenormousbasesouthoftherailroad
andclosedtheroadtoDaleandTwentyninePalms;inturn,theroadleadingsouthfromAmboy
waspaved.
Bagdadcontinuedtoshrinkuntilitcontainedaservicestation,cafe,andtouristcampalong
Route66andthedepot,pumpingplant,andsectionhousealongtherailroad.ThentheSantaFé
convertedtoDiesellocomotivesandmotorizeditsmaintenancecrews.Thesectionhousewas
64
closed;thehotelandwatertankweretorndown.In1960,thejournalistL.BurrBeldencouldfind
onlyboarded‐uprailroadstructures,thepumpingplant,andthestatelyrowofpalmsstanding
nearthefoundationsofthedepotandhotel.
SOURCES:ThestoryofBagdadhasbeenpiecedtogetherfrombusinessdirectories,David
Thompson'swater‐supplypaperontheMojaveDesert(citedearlier),atravelarticleinthe
RedlandsCitrographin1896,DavidMyrick'sRailroadsofNevadaandEasternCalifornia(already
cited),andarticlesintheLosAngeles(American)MiningReviewandPatriciaKeeling,OnceUpona
Desert(citedearlier).TheonlycomprehensiveaccountofBagdad'shistoryisL.BurrBelden,
“BustlingRails,MineCenterofBagdadFading,”SanBernardinoSun‐Telegram,April3,1960,p.B‐
12.
65
VANDERBILT
THEERAOFSILVERMININGwasfading.AllovertheMojave‐‐atCalico,Mescal,Providence‐‐
theoldsilvercampsweredying.
Goldwasthenewmetalofchoice.InJanuary,1891,aPaiuteIndiannamedRobertBlack
struckapromisingmineraldepositintheNewYorkMountains,about40milesnorthofGaffs
siding,ontheSantaFéRailway.AnassaymadeatProvidenceshowedittoberichingold.To
protecthisinterests,BlackbroughtinrancherM.M.Beatty(namesakeofthetownnearDeath
Valley)tofileaclaim.
Thestrikecouldnotlongremainasecret.TwominingmenfromProvidence,RichardC.Hall
andSamuelKing,rushedintofileonseveralpromisingveins,whichbecametheGoldBronze
Mine.
SeriousprospectinggotunderwayaftertwootherProvidenceminers,JosephP.Taggartand
JamesH.Patton,joinedtheminJune.Thefourmensankseveralshaftsandtookoutseveraltonsof
orerichingoldandsilver.AcampsprangupatVanderbiltSpring,inacove‐likegullyinthesideof
ahill.Withinashortwalkwerecopiousspringsandabundantscrubbytrees,piñonandnutpine,
“sotherewillbenoroomforthecustomaryhowl....”Thoughsnowfallswheneverthewintersare
harsh,thedistrict,lyingatabout4,500feet,tendstoescapethebruntofthesummerheat.
ThoughKingdied,Hall,Taggart,andPattonpushedaheadattheirGoldBronzeclaimduring
thenexttwoyears.Theentiredesertregion,infact,wasattractingattentionby1892.About40
milesnorthofVanderbilt,SamuelS.Godbewasopeninguplead‐zinc‐silverdepositsintheold
YellowPinedistrict.JustsouthwestofVanderbilt,theSagamoreMine,anoldlead‐zinc‐silver‐
copperproperty,wasawaitingdevelopment.Hopingtoreapthewealthoftherisingdistricts,
Isaac
C.Blake,aDenverminingmagnate,builtasmelteratNeedles.Inthemeantime,AllanG.
Campbell,aSaltLakeCityinvestor,joinedBeattyindevelopingtheBoomerangproperty,even
sinkingashaft100feet.AndtwoComstocklords,JohnL.MackayandJ.L.Flood,withpartner
WilliamS.Lyleastheirfrontman,werestudyingnearbyproperties.AstrikemadebyTaggartthat
fallfinallytouchedoffarush.WhenyoungFrankWilliamsarrivedfromKansasinDecember,
Vanderbilt“wasmostinterestingandIspenttheafternoonamidscenesandconditionsoflife
altogethernewtome....”Thecampconsistedofperhaps300menservedbyastore,
boardinghouse,andseveralsaloons,probablyallhousedintents.ThoughWilliamssawsome
drunkenness,“Isawnobodyarmedandallwerewelldisposedandsociable....”
Blake,theDenverinvestor,turnedthissmallrushintoaboom.Planningtodevelopthe
Sagamore,BlakeinDecemberbeganbuildingtheNevadaSouthernRailwayfromGoffs.Joining
himwasWarrenG.Purdy,aChicagorailroadofficial,thoughGodbemayhavepromisedBlake
shipmentsoforefromhisminesintheYellowPinedistrict.
Vanderbiltmushroomed.InJanuary,1893,itcontained50tentsand“fully”150residents.
Twostoressuppliedthe“necessitiesoflife,”andasaloondispensed“theluxuries.”Theother
businessesincludedthreerestaurants,alodginghouse,ablacksmithshop,andahay‐and‐feed
stable.Awaterworkswasplanned(butneverbuilt).Astagebroughtgold‐seekersthreetimesa
weekfromGoffs,36miles.(GoffswasrenamedBlakein1894.)Onecorrespondentpredictedthat
66
Vanderbiltwould“soonbeoneoftheliveliestandmostprosperoustownsinsouthernCalifornia..
..”ApostofficewasestablishedinFebruary.
Blake“fairlygluttedthemostsanguinewithhispromises.”Yethisconstructioncrewsmade
littleprogresseventhoughtheroutecrossedonlyabroad,gentlyslopingplain.Then,too,all
waterhadtobehauledfromNeedles.Meanwhile,asoureconomywasdryingupcapitalfor
railroadconstruction.BytheendofJanuary(1893),60teamsand100menhadgradedonly12
milesnorthofGoffs.Atownwaslaidoutattheend‐of‐trackandnamedafterLeroyBlackburn,a
prominentrancher.
Butamonthlater,thegradeextended26miles,toapointsoonnamedPurdy.Jubilant“over
theprospectsofhavingacheapmethodoftransportation,”manyresidentswerepredictinga
boom.WhentherailsfinallyreachedBlackburn,apostofficewasestablishedatacampfarther
alongtherouteinMarch.ItwasnamedManvel,afterAllenManvel,thelatepresidentoftheSanta
FéRailway.TheoriginalManvelwasprobablyaconstructioncampatthefootoftheNewYork
Mountains.(Summitconstructioncampwasestablishedafewmilesupthegrade;thiswouldbe
thelatersiteofManvel.)
Asspringarrived,theNevadaSouthernwasbringingin10to15personsaday;150menwere
workingatVanderbilt.TheNeedlesEyecalledtheminesthe“mostpromisingandlivelynewgold‐
miningdistrict”seeninsixorsevenyears.
Otherobserverswerenotsosure.ThePioche(Nevada)Recordwarnedthatthecamp“issaid
tobebadlyoverblown.”Thenativenutpineandwaterweresaidtobedepleted(probablyan
exaggeration).Lumbercost$90athousandboard‐feet.Only25menatmosthadjobsat
Vanderbiltinearly1893;theSagamoreMine,justoutsidethedistrict,employed80men.
Althoughthepopulationremainedsteady,atabout300,Vanderbiltthatspringbecamea
“bustlingandlivelycamp,”whereeveryman“seemstobeonthego,andthatthisishislastchance
tomakeastrike....”VirgilEarp,abrotherofWyattEarp,beganbuildingasaloon;itwouldremain
thecamp'sonlytwo‐storybuilding.“Genial”WilliamMcFarlane,apioneerofIvanpahandMescal,
soldgeneralmerchandise,miners'supplies,andprovisionsathisVanderbiltStore,wherehealso
ranthepostoffice.Mrs.CharlieSmithsonkepttheVanderbiltHouse,andherhusbandsupplied
“thechoicestbeef”fromanearbyranch.Abedcost50centsanight;boardcost$7aweek.Bythen,
thebusinessdistrictembracedtwogeneralstores,thepostoffice,threesaloons,alodginghouse,
andalumberyard‐‐allbutonehousedintents.
Thenacarloadoflumberarrived;railroadcrewswerenotfarbehind.Hopeseemed
infectious.TheformerownerofaNeedlesbakeryannouncedplanstoopenachophousein
Vanderbilt,givinghispatrons“thebestinthemarket.”
TheLosAngelesHeraldforesawtheriseof“anexceedinglylivelyminingtown.Infact,itisno
misnomertocallitacity,atleast,itwon'tbeinthenearfutureifthecurrentaccountsaretobe
trusted.”TheEyegushedthatthe“desertcountrywillsomedayopenwidetheeyesofpeoplewho
nowscoffattheideaofmakingitanythingbutthehabitationofthelizardandthehornedtoad.”
Theairfairlytingledwithexcitement.OnJuly4,forexample,thedenizensofthedesert
flockedtoBlackburn'sranch;theycamefromallpoints‐‐theSagamoreMine,Vanderbilt,eventhe
railroadcampofPurdy.AftertheDeclarationofIndependencewasread,Dr.E.A.Tuttle“delivered
67
astirringaddress,”whichwasfollowedbyagrandbarbecue,horseracingandothersports,abig
dance,“andtheusualorgyofdrunkenness,”asFrankWilliamsrecalled.
Theywouldsoonhavemoretocelebrate.RegularrailservicetoManvelapparentlybeganin
August.ManvelpostofficewasmovedtoSummit,asdidthebusinesshousesofPurdy.According
totheNevadaSouthern'sfirstschedule,atrainwouldleaveBlake(Goffs)dailyat7:30a.m.and
arriveatManvelat9:45.ThetrainwouldleaveManvelat4p.m.andarriveatBlakeat6:15.From
Manvel,thePioneerStagelinewouldcarrypassengersthelastfivemilestoVanderbiltfor$2.An
estimated14childrennowlivedincamp;theirparentswere“anxioustohaveaschool
established.”Aboutthen,W.A.Nash,thefirstjusticeofthepeace,establishedanewspaper,the
Nugget,butitlastedonlytwoorthreeissues.Afewweekslater,theautumnairbegantobuzzwith
thetalkofpolitics.Duringtheelections,Democraticcandidateswerepleasantlysurprisedtofind
notthe60or70registeredvotersbut149;30menwereexpectedtoregister.
VanderbiltquieteddownsomewhatinDecember.ButWilliamsstillfoundit“aglow”withthe
expectationthattwomillswouldbebuilt.Indeed,ten‐stampmillsstartedupattheGoldBronze
andBoomerangminesinMarch,1894;theEyerejoicedthat“Vanderbiltisboomingandthosewho
maintainedfaithinthecampandstucktoitwhenitwasdecriedarereapingthebenefitoftheir
exerciseofgoodjudgment.....”
Butonemillwasanoddity.Inthestandardplants,designedinCaliforniatocrushrelatively
softrock,850‐poundstamps(pestles)wouldriseandfall60timesaminute.Themilluseda
designfromGilpinCounty,Colorado,where1,850‐poundstampswouldlaboriouslydrop25to30
timesaminutetocrushthegranite‐likeoreoftheRockyMountains.Oneminingmanlater
contendedthattheColoradodesign“doesnotdotheworkthatcouldbeexpectedfromamillof
moremodernmake.”(Meanwhile,atIbexTank,20mileswestofNeedles,awellwassunkanda
10‐stampmillstartedupinMay,1894.)
ThoughtheNuggetglistenedonlybriefly,thenextattempttopublishanewspaperturnedout
tobemoresuccessful.Afterlookingthedistrictover,BenC.Jordan,ayoungcorrespondentforthe
LosAngelesEveningExpress,beganissuingtheweeklyShaftinearlyDecember,1893.TheEye
complimenteditscontemporaryonitsneatappearance,itsgoodbookpaper,anditsinteresting
contents,forthemerchantswere“givingthepaperagoodshareofadvertising....Wewish
BrotherJordanandtheShaftabundantsuccess.”
BrotherJordandeservedsuccess.Hiscolumnsofminingnewswerewrittenclearlyand
quotedextensivelybyminingjournals.Jordanhadanespeciallycleargraspoftheregion's
concerns.HefirstadvocatedtheconstructionofasmelterinNeedles,evendepositingaspecimen
ofrichoreattheofficeoftheEye,andlaterurgedtheformationofanassociationofnewspapers
publishedalongthelineoftheAtlantic&Pacific(SantaF€!).Bothprojectsucceeded.Asthe
summerof1894approached,theEye'sco‐publisher,F.B.Marion,joinedJordanasapartner,
thoughitwasanapparentlyshort‐livedarrangement,andtheShaftorderedaplantthatwouldbe
“oneofthebestappointedofficesonthecoast.”
TheappearanceoftheShaftauguredwellforthedistrict.W.T.HolcombboughttheVanderbilt
StoreinDecember,1893,andFredH.ThompsonclosedhisstoreinNeedlestoopenanoutletin
thethrivingcamp.TheAlbuquerqueDemocratreportedinAprilthatVanderbilt“hasalreadythe
appearanceofasmalltown,barringofcoursetheunstableappearancewroughtbycanvasroofs
andwalls....”Thepopulationcontinuedtorise,to400.
68
Meanwhile,onavisittothedistrictinApril,thecountysuperintendentofschoolscreatedthe
VanderbiltSchoolDistrict,hiredateacher,andappointedWilliamMcFarlane,JordanandMrs.
DaveCongdonasthedistrict'strustees.Servinganestimated25students,schoolbeganinMayfor
aone‐monthterm.Afewweekslater,residentsvoted88to1tolevyaspecialschooltaxof$150.
Vanderbiltinfactwassheddingsomeofitsrawness.Hayandfruitbegantoarrivefromthe
ManseandPahrumpranchesinNevada.WhenthePowellbrotherscompletedtheirsaloon,a
dancewasheldasahouse‐warming.Jordanconsideredit“averyenjoyableevent.Messrs.Powell
haveahostoffriendswhowishthemabundantsuccess.”ThenNayandYountaddedbilliardand
gameroomsto·theirsaloon.
ButVanderhilt;wasreachingitspeakbylate1894.About100men,laboredinitsmines;they
received$3aday.Thetrappingsofgovernmentincludedateacherandschoolboard,postmaster,
mining‐districtrecorder,justiceofthepeace,whoalsoservedasadeputycoroner,andconstable.
Thebusinessdistrictwasfairlycompleteandcloselyknit.McFarlaneandapartnernamed
Miller,FredH.Thompson,andHallandStillsonranthreewell‐stockedgeneralstores.McFarlane
alsoranthepostofficeandownedtheVanderbiltDrugStore,whichDr.E.A.Tuttlemanaged.Nay
andL.O.Yount,AlPowell,andVirgilEarpfurnished“thelubricator”attheirsaloons.PeteMcNeal
andGusHamerstadtwerethebarbers.BesidesaChineserestaurant,theGoldBronzecompany,J.
Morrel,andMrs.CharlieC.Smithsonraneatinghouses.NayandYountandSmithsonownedthe
meatmarkets.J.Quinnsoldstationeryandfruit.AndyMcShaneandE.P.Tolanwerethe
blacksmiths.Mrs.McShaneranthelodginghouse.Thoughthecampsupportedaschool,ithadno
church;serviceswereheldinthepublichallsofvarioussaloons.AboutallthatVanderbiltlacked
wasashoemakerorcobblerandabank.
Butthedistrictdidnotlacknaturalresources.Besidesthenearbysprings,shallowmine
shaftsprovidedplentyofwater,whichcosttwocentsagallon.Becauseofthehighelevation,wood
(probablypiñon)wasplentiful;itsoldfor$5acord.Hayandgraincost$40aton.
WhetherVanderbiltwasboomingordeclining,itssocialliferemainedanalmostweekly
whirlyofwell‐attendedbanquetsandbarbecues,maskballsandhops,whistgamesanddancing
lessons.SundayactivitiesmightconsistofBibleschool,services,andastereopticonlectureinthe
evening.TheBohemianClub,WhistClub,andespeciallytheSlimMen'sSocietywereunusually
merry,evenholdingapillowcase‐and‐sheetdance.ToenjoyadanceatBlake(Goffs),Vanderbilt's
menandwomenevencharteredatrain.
Infact,thecamp'scitizensseemedtorelishtheunorthodox.Ministerswouldlectureinthe
hallsofsaloons.AtEarp'sbuilding,whichhousedasaloononthegroundfloor,theupstairswould
beusedforapollingplace,churchservices,andSundayschool.OneearlySunday‐school
superintendentdealtfarointhePioneerSaloonontheSabbath.
TheeventthatputVanderbiltonthemapwasa10‐roundboxingmatchstagedinAugust,
1894.AwhiteboxernamedHankLorrainewaspittedagainstablackboxernamedJohnlee,the
championofnorthernArizona.A20‐footringwassetupinEarp'sHall.About100persons
watchedasthematchgotofftoaslowstart,for“onewouldsupposethecontestantswereacouple
ofschoolboys....”
Thenintheseventhround,the“Dutchman”rushedacrossthering,pushedleeintoacorner,
andbeganpoundinghimhard.Thoughbothmenwereaggressive,thebatteringonleebeganto
69
show.Finally,inthetenthround,Lorrainegaveleeseveralblowsthat“causedthewhitesofhis
eyestostandout”and“alas!onemorefromthelongarmoftheDutchmanreachedtheobjective
pointandpoorleewentdowninhiscornerandfailedtorespondatall.”Lorrainetookashower
and“receivedthecongratulationsoftheboys.”
ThoughVanderbiltwasneverawildtown,themixtureofgunsandliquorcouldmake
recreationabitrowdy.O.J.Fisk,thenayounghoisttender,recalledthenightwhentheWhistClub
heldawell‐attendeddanceinEarp'sSaloon.Theorchestracomprisedonlyalittlereedorganand
afiddle.Escapingfromapowdershaft,usedasatemporaryjail,adrunkenminerreturnedtothe
danceandshotuptheorgan.“Hislifewouldn'thavebeenworthmuchbutitwasdiscoveredthe
organcouldstillplaysoonthepromiseofgoodbehaviortheminerwasnotbothered,”Fisk
remembered.
Onanotheroccasion,rightbeforeadance,FiskwasgettingshavedinAllen'sbarbershop.
“BloodAlley”Mose,atough,sharpgamblerwhoworkedforEarp,stormedintotheshopandstuck
hispistolinthebarber'sribs,accusinghimofcheatingatcraps.Fisk,stilllathered,beatitoutthe
door.Afasttalker,thebarberpersuadedAllentohaveadrinknextdoor,andaroundofdrinksled
toafriendlyparting.Fisk,meanwhile,hadtoborrowarazortofinishthejob.
Someformsofamusement,however,weredownrightnasty.Minerswalkingalongthetrailto
theBoomerangMinelikedtothrowrocksatthehouseofQuenGee,alaundryman.Heretaliated,
firstbyfiringapistolattwoofhistormentors,thenbygettingoutadouble‐barreledshotgun.“...
Hemeansbusiness,too.”
AsFiskhadalreadyfound,drinkingcouldleadtonear‐fatalconsequences.Amannamed
Smith,whohadtaken“toomuchbenzine,”wasthrownoutofMorrel'srestaurantforcontinuingto
use“foullanguage.”Smithreturnedwithaborrowedpistol.ThoughMorrelmanagedtonabthe
gun,thetwomenscuffledandthepistolwentoff;theballpassedthroughMorrel'sarm.Inthe
justicecourtafewdayslater,Smithwasfined$20forassaulttokill,themanwholoanedoutthe
pistolwaschargedasanaccessory,andMorrelwasclearedofanassaultcharge.Perhapsnot
coincidentally,anironcagewasbeingerectedforuseasajail.
Meanwhile,asthemineswerepusheddeeper,thedistrictexperiencedseveralfatalities.The
firstdeathoccurredwhenayoungminerwas“blowntopieces”inapowderexplosioninthe
BoomeranginMay,1894.Hewasburiedthatsameafternoon,withalargecrowdattending.The
nextmonth,aminerfelldownashaftattheGoldBronzeafterhiscandlewasblownout.Though
Dr.Tuttlewascalled,theminerhadapparentlydiedinstantly.Allminesandbusinessesclosed
duringtheafternoonofthefuneral.
ItwascharacteristicofVanderbiltthatitsdeclinebeganearly.Williamshadfoundquiettimes
asearlyasDecember,1893.Thoughtheminesremainedactivethroughthesummerof1894,rot
wasspreadingintothebusinessdistrict.Findingthat“businesswastoodullinthecamp,”
HolcombclosedhisstoreinJulyandmovedhisstocktoNeedles.
Moreominously,JordansuspendedtheShaftamonthlater.AcorrespondentfortheEye
explainedthat“EditorJordan,liketheArab,silentlystoleawayonhorsebackinthemiddleofthe
night‐‐boundforUtah.Heleftthefollowingnoticepinnedontheofficedoor:'TheShaftissunk.
Developmentworkhasclosed,fornosuccesshasattendedQUI'effortstofindthepaystreak.To
ourenemieswesay:Ifyoucangetanycomfortoutofthefailureofonewhoseeffortsareandhave
beenentirelyforthegoodofthecampjusttakeitandmayyoubehappy.Toourfriendswesay:
70
Goodlucktoyou,andpleaseacceptourthanksforwhatyouhavedoneforus.Toall,ourfriends
andourenemies,thoseweoweandthosewhooweus,wesay‐‐Adios.’”Aweeklater,anagentofa
SanFranciscotypefoundrypackeduptheplantandshippedittothefarmtownofPerris,in
RiversideCounty.
Thecomingofwinter,1894‐1895,broughtevendullertimestomainstreet.Though
Thompsonhadjustput“aknobbycoatofpaint”onthefrontofhisstore,HallandStillsonin
Decemberhaddecidedtoclosetheirstoreandweresellingofftheirgoods.Andsoonafter
enlarginghisbusiness,Earpsoldhisbuilding.Astheyearclosed,theNevadaSouthernwentinto
receivership;theSundaytrainwascutoutfromtheseven‐dayscheduletoManvel.
TheBronzeandBoomerangwerestillgoingsteadily.TheBronzehadbynowproduced
$47,000intwoyears,andCampbell'smonthlypaydayswouldmakethetownlivelyforafewdays.
Evenso,miningtendedtobeerratic.FourteenmenwouldbeworkingattheSt.Georgegroup
forawhile,50attheBoomerangatanothertime.TheshaftoftheBronzeseemstohavegone
down260feet,theBoomerang'sshaftnearly500feet.Yetstatisticsonthelaborforceand
productionaretoosketchytorevealacompletepicture.
Especiallydetrimentaltotheadvanceofminingwerethetwomills.Theyoperatedata
feverishpace,upto24hoursaday‐‐butonlyintermittently.Toooften,theywouldbeclosed
becauseofashortageofwater,orabrokenpart,orthelackofare.Becauseofthe.GilpinCounty
design,onemillwasunusuallyinefficient.Manysuspectedthemilloperatorsoflosingmuchofthe
goldinthewasteduringprocessing.WhenWilliamshadaloadoforeprocessedatthe
Boomerang'smill,atleast$9ingoldhadbeenlost(inthetailings)foreachtonoforemilled.
Thedeclinecontinuedinto1895.WorkonextendingtheroadbedoftheNevadaSouthernto
Vanderbiltwassuspended.SodullwasthedistrictthatwhenCampbellpaidhismentheirmonthly
wages,onecorrespondentwrylynotedthatif“thereweretwoorthreemorecompaniesthatpaid
offasregularthiscampwouldbequitelively.”AvisitorinMayfoundthat“timeswereratherdull
here.”Inthemeantime,Smithson'spartnerinthemeatbusinesssoldout.
Belatedly,inMay,onemillwasmodified.“...Thesoundofthestampisquiteanimprovement
ontheoldslow‐motionGilpinCountymill.ItisequaltoaCaliforniafast‐dropmillnowandwill
certainlytreattwiceasmuchoreasheretofore.”
Butthechangesseemtohavecometoolate.TheBronze,whichemployed12,wasplacedin
receivershipinJune.Thereceiver,W.N.Crandall,aformercontractorontheNevadaSouthern,was
expectedto“handlethemineinabusiness‐likeway....”AndthoughCampbellwasworkinga
largeforceattheSt.George,fromwhichhewaslayingapipelinetotheBoomerang'smill,the
failureoftheprojecttoprovideanadequatesupplyofwaternearlycrushedCampbelland
Williamsalike.
Althoughnewsofminingbegantopeteroutinthesummerof1895,theschoolmanagedto
closethetermwithahealthyenrollmentof22,andthetownwouldmaintainasemblanceofa
businessdistrictforseveralyears.
ThefortunesofWilliamsillustratetheplightofsmall,independentminersduringthe“boom”
years.ThemilloftheBronzelostsomuchgold‐‐perhapsupto20percent‐‐thatWilliamsand
fellowindependentsconsideredsuing.Thenthe“mererobbers”atthenewlybuiltKlinefelterMill,
71
ontheAtlantic&Pacific,paidWilliamsjustenoughtocoverthecostsofmillingandfreight.
ThoughCampbellfinallygotenoughwatertomillcustom(outsiders')ore,theplantremainedin
suchpoorconditionthatprocessingWilliams'sorenettedhimonlyamodestprofit.Finally,inthe
summerof1895,amillingattheBoomerangbroughtWilliamsandabrother$600,enoughto
payoffallhisdebtsandenablehimtomakeatriptohisparentsinKansas.
Williamsrefusedtogiveup.“Iexperiencedconsiderablevicissitudeoffortuneandcertainly
underwentavarietyofmentalthrills.Allthewayfromfeelingsofassuredrichestotroughsof
deepestdejection.AsIcanseenow,therewasnospecialoccasionforeither,butIwas
inexperiencedandVanderbiltwasseethingwithsanguineexpectationsthatyear.Foratime
everyonewhosawmymineinsistedthatitwasabonanza,justliketheyhadseeninGranite
Mountain,Leadville,orsomeotherfamouscamp....”
Perhapsitwastheperseverance,thestubbornness,ofsuchhardymenasWilliamsthatkept
Vanderbiltalive.Astategeologistin1896foundthattheboomtimeswere“nowlacking,butfew
oftheminesarebeingworked,andthepopulationgreatlydecreased....”Alltheminesexceptthe
Boomerangwerebeingleasedouttoindependentminers.Williamshimselfworkedthemineson
andoffuntilthedistrict'sdeath.
Butsmallminescouldnotkeepadistrictalive.Theschooldroppedfrom19pupilsin1897to
eightin1898;thenitclosed.ThepostofficeclosedinMarch,1900.
SOURCES:FredHolladayhaswrittenadetailedculturalandsocialhistory:“AsRichas
Vanderbilt,”HeritageTales(CityofSanBernardinoHistoricalSociety,AnnualPublication2,1979),
pp,1‐16.DavidMyrickoffersacomprehensivehistoryofthedistrictanditsrailroadsinhis
RailroadsofNevadaandEasternCalifornia,II(alreadycited).
Thepressfaithfullyrecordedthesocialandmininglife:NeedlesEye,1891‐.1894;Saturday
Review(SanBernardino),1895‐1896;andtheMining&ScientificPress,especially1893‐1896.Two
youngmenrecalledthecamp'sbestdays:FrankWilliams,inhisautobiography(typescriptofcopy
inDepartmentofSpecialCollections,UniversityofNevada,LasVegas),andO.J.Fisk,“Treasures
fromVanderbilt,”Westways,June,1952,pp,22‐23.
SeveralwritersinterviewedO.J.Fiskandphotographedseveralstill‐intactbuildings:O.J.Fisk
andPhilipJohnston,“TreasuresfromVanderbilt,”Westways,June,1952,pp,22‐23;Nell
Murbarger,“SleepingGhostsintheNewYorkMountains,”DesertMagazine,October,1957,pp.24‐
28;andL.BurrBelden,“VanderbiltRanksHighonListofRich,WildCamps,”Nov.3D,1952,p,20,
and“It'sGold:We'reRichasVanderbilts!”Jan.19,1964,p.B‐7,bothintheSanBernardinoSun‐
Telegram.
72
MANVEL(BARNWELL)
WHATDAGGETTWASTOCALICO,ManvelwouldbetoVanderbilt.ItwasnotVanderbilt's
goldbutIsaacBlake'srailroadthatopeneduptheeasternMojave.GradingontheNevada
SouthernRailwaygotunderwayinJanuary,1893.
BylateFebruarythegradeextendedtotheBriggs8.Murphyranch,26milesnorthofGaffs,at
thefootoftheNewYorkrange.AconstructioncampherewasnamedafterAllenManvel,the
presidentoftheSantaFéRailway.ApostofficeopenedinlateMarch,onlyamonthafterManvel's
death.
ThisearlyManvelcampwasneartheconstructioncampofPurdy,whereafewbusiness
houses(probablyintents)grewupaboutMay.ThecampwasnamedafterWarrenG.Purdy,a
ChicagorailroadofficialandapartnerofBlake.Thefirstrecordedviolencealongthelineoccurred
atPurdywhena‐trampassaultedandrobbedadrunkenIndian.
ThegradewassoonpushedafewmilesuptheslopetoSummitcamp.Summitstoodona
juniper‐coveredmesaat4,800feet.Apassledfivemilesnorth‐toVanderbilt;agullyledeastward
intoNevada.ThefirstscheduledtrainarrivedaboutAugust,whenManvelpostofficeandthe
businesshousesofPurdyweremovedtoSummit.LeavingGaffsdailyat7:30a.m.,atrainwould
chuffintoManvelat9:45.ThePioneerStageLinewouldthentakepassengerstoVanderbiltfor$2.
ThetrainreturnedtoGoffslateintheafternoon.
Dayslater,thedistrictexperienceditsfirsttragedy.Inaquarreloverwages,ThomasStevens
pumpedfourshotsintomineownerF.A.FillmorewhiletheywereridingnearManvel.Then
StevensdismountedandshotFillmoreinthehead.Adeputysheriffquicklyorganizedapossebut
lostthetrail.Afewdayslater,prospectorsfoundStevens'sbody:hehadshothimselfinthehead.
Assummerwaned,trafficovertheNevadaSouthernincreased.Thoughthepanicand
depressionhadhaltedworkinJune,crewscontinuedtocutagradetoVanderbiltthroughthe
rockythroughtherockyhillstoVanderbilt.AtManvel,
R.J.Halseywaskeepingagrocerystore.E.H.LeibeybuiltanotherstoreinOctoberandmoved
hisstockofmerchandisefromtheNewYorkmines;Leibeywasnamedpostmaster.Manvelalso
containedatelegraphofficeandthedepot.WhentheBriggs8.Murphyranchwasincorporatedas
theRockSpringsLand8.CattleCompanyinearly1894,about50personslivedintown.Inaregion
wheretheNeedlesschooldistrictencompassed7,000squaremiles,Manvelservedasthe
distributingpointforavasthinterland.GoodreportswerecomingfromtheminesatVanderbilt,
Goodsprings,Crescent,Montgomery:thePotosimine,nearGoodsprings,forexample,contracted
toship100tonsoforeadaythroughManvel.Onecorrespondentaskedfordailyortriweeklymail
serviceandastagelinetoservethehundredsofmenlaboringbetweenManvelandPioche,
Nevada,severalhundredmilesnorth.Afterconsiderableclamoring,theresidentsinducedthe
countytoworkontheroadleadingfromManveltoVanderbiltandtheNevadacampsinearly
1895.OneshipmentfortheMontgomerymines,125milesnorthwest,totaled25tonsandtwosix‐
horseteamscarryingprovisions.
OneeditorpointedoutthattheeasternMojave“doesnotaskformuch,anditseemsthata
roadoverwhichlargefreightteamspassdaily,heavilyloadedwithvaluablemachinery,oreand
merchandise,shouldbeputinproperconditionatonce....”
73
Byearly1898,Manvelsupportedaflour,grain,andlumberdealer,ahotel,ablacksmith,the
postoffice,ajusticeofthepeace,andageneralstoreandastagelinerunningtoMontgomery,both
ownedbyT.A.Brown.Mailarrivedthreetimesaweek.Aschooldistrictwasorganizedin19.00.
Manvelwasindeedbooming.
ManvellostsomeofitsimportancewhentheNevadaSouthernbuilta15‐mileextensionpast
desertedVanderbilttoservetherevivedCopperWorldMine.Whenthebranchwascompletedin
early1902,Ivanpahstationwasbuiltattheendoftrack.(Afewmonthslater,theSantaFébought
theNevadaSouthernandrenamedittheCaliforniaEasternRailway.)
ThedailyarrivalofthetrainfromBlake(Goffs),“heraldedbysmokerisingoverthesouthern
mesa,”wastheeventoftheday,recalledEdgarBrown,thesonoftheleadingmerchant.Within
minutes,EngineNo.1wouldsweep“majesticallyaroundthebendandhissedtoastopatthesmall
unpaintedstation.Fromthesingledaycoachcamethewhite‐collared'drummers,'mackinawed
prospectors,pompousminingpromoters,andtheever‐interestingpageantofgold‐seekersand
sucker‐seekers.”
Thentothestationplatformcameaprocessionof20‐muleteamsgeneratingcloudsofdust
andvolumesofcurses.Swamperswouldbreaktheirbacksloadingmassiveminingmachinery,
casesofdynamite,tinwaterpails,evenrailsforthenarrow‐gaugerailroadatSearchlight.With
toweringloads,afullwatertankfortheiranimals,andacaseortwooftomatoestoslaketheir
ownthirsts,theteamsterandhisswamperwouldsetoutforGoldfieldandGoodsprings,
SearchlightandDeathValley.
ThencametheboomatSearchlight,Nevada,20milestotheeast.Thoughlargedepositsof
goldhadbeenfoundin1897,thecompaniesbegantodeveloptheirclaimsandbuildmillsonly
about1900.Aweeklynewspaperandnarrow‐gaugerailroadrunningtotheColoradoRiver
startedupin1902.TheoutputofSearchlight'sminesrosefrom$388,000in1904toapeakof
$530,000in1906.Bythen,thecampsupportedtwoweeklypapers,well‐stockedstores,more
thanadozensaloons,achamberofcommerce,telephoneexchange,andschool.
Manvelenjoyeditsheydayfrom1902toabout1907.TheamountoffreightleavingManvel
forSearchlightwasimmense;servingthefreightingbusinesswereastationandtelegraphoffice,
freight‐forwardinghouse,andaWells,Fargo&Companyagency.Thepostoffice'sheavybusiness
entitledittosellmoneyorders.AttheBrown‐Gosneystore,itwas“nothingunusualtohavethe
dailysalesamountupintothethousandsofdollars....”TheimportanceofManvelasanentrepot
wasshownwhenafiredestroyedtherailroadfreighthouseinDecember,1904.Thelosses
includedanimmenseamountoffreight,severalcarsstandingonasiding,anddrumsofdistillate,
whichexploded.(TopreventconfusionwithManvel,Texas,firsttheSantaFe,thenWells,Fargo,
andfinallythepostoffice,inFebruary,1907,changedthenametoBarnwell.)
TheguidinglightofManvelwasT.A.Brown,theco‐founderoftheBrown‐Gosnseystorein
1895.Inalow,ramblingbuilding,Brownandhispartner“builtupabusinessreputationand
standingwhichwasasstrongasthebuildingitselfwasweakanddisreputable....”Fromwell‐
stockedcellars,Brownalsocarriedonawholesalewhiskeybusinessandrananinformalbank
fromhissafe.Burninglyambitious,Brownovertheyearsorganizedaphonesystem,ranfreight
linesandastageline,andopenedbranchesinthecampsandtownsoftheCalifornia‐Nevada
border:Vanderbilt,Searchlight,Sandy,Ivanpahstation,Leastalk,LasVegas,Calivada,Nelson,and
Hart.
74
Hiswife,meanwhile,wouldorganizechurchmeetings,takecareofdrunks,andcounselthe
wayward.SinceManvel'sonlydoctorwasravagedbydrugs,hersonrecalled,Mrs.Brown
“probablydoctoredmorecasesofcroup,mumps,fever,brokenbonesandlacerationsthansome
medicalmenundertakeinalifetime....”Theschool,too,flourished,neverfallingbelow15pupils..
ToyoungEdgarBrownandthe20to25otherboysintown,Barnwell‐‐thenameheknewthe
townas‐‐"wasaworldoffabuloushunting,exploration,horsebackrides,andacompleteand
uninhibitedsatisfactionofcuriosity....”AttheGreencorral,wheretheladswouldwatchworking
rodeos,thecowboysstoodoutlikecharactersinadimenovel.Theirleatherchaps,blackvests,
black,narrow‐brimmedfelthats,redkerchiefs,andBullDurhamtagshangingoutoftheirvest
pocketsmadethemcolorfulcharacters.
Earningspendingmoneyturnedouttobeabitmoredifficult.Theboyswouldhelpswampers
loadcasesofdynamite‐‐ittookthemawhiletorealizethattheexplosivewasshockresistant‐‐and
selldiscardedwhiskeybottlesforanickeleachatthereardoorsofsaloons.Customprevented
minorsfromentering.
Ironically,Searchlight'srisewouldhastenBarnwell'sdecline.AmajorraillinefromLos
AngelestoSaltLakeCitywascompletedinearly1905.Itpassedonly20milesfromSearchlight
and15milesfromtheCopperWorldMine.Inresponse,theSantaFébuilttheBarnwell8.
SearchlightRailway,23mileslong.ItwascompletedinMarch,1907.Trainsrandailyexcept
Sunday.Theheydayofteamingwasover.Searchlight'soutputbegantoplummetatonce,probably
hastenedbytheonsetofthepanicanddepressioninOctober.AtManvel,bluepiecesofscripwere
usedasmoney;familiesbegantodriftaway.
ThediscoveryofgoldatHart,afewmilessouthoftheBarnwell8.SearchlightRailway,atfirst
promisedtoreviveBarnwell.Butwithinmonths,bymid‐1908,Hartsupportedabusinesssection
thatfarsurpassedBarnwell's.Hart'sdistributingpointwasHitt,asidingandfreighthousenear
theNevadaline.YetHartwouldwaneduringthenextfewyears,too.
Barnwell'sdeclinewasalsohastenedbyafirethatdestroyedmostofthebusinessdistrictin
September,1908.Thoughsmokehadalertedtheresidents,theylackedthemeanstofightfires.
Theflamesturnedthestoreinto“aroaringmass”andspreadalongthelineofbuildingsuntilit
reachedtheSantaFéstation.Theagentmanagedtoremoveallrecordsandbooksand“pluckily
stavedwithhistelegraphinstrument”untilthewireswereburned.Thelossofthestorebuilding
anditscontentsamountedto$15,000.
Insurancecoveredmostofthedamage.TheBrown‐Gosnevstorebeganrebuildingthenext
morning,andaboxcarwasturnedintoan'officefortherailroad.
Barnwellessentiallygaveuptheghostin1910.TheBrown‐Gosneystore,whosemainoffice
hadmovedtoSearchlight,closedinFebruary.BranchesoperatedonlyatHartandSandy,Nevada.
InMay,justaftermidnight,stationagentW.J.Connorobservedafireatthecorralandbarnofthe
RockSpringscompany.Inhisexcitement,hefailedtoreattachhisartificialfootbutstillhobbled
around“atalivelyratespreadingthealarm.”Itwastoolate:thecorral,barn,feed,andhaywere
destroyed;sixhorseswerekilledandtwocriticallyburned.Thelosswasputat$3,000.
ThedulltimeswerebrokenbyaquarrelinGusHamstadt'ssalooninearly1911.Duringa
cardgame,JohnCarterpulledagunonGeorgeRoss.Constable
75
F.Clementsarrived,disarmedandarrestedCarter,andtookhimtoSanBernardinofortrial.
TheemergenceoffarmingcoloniesatLanfair,12milestothesouth,pushedBarnwell'sschool
enrollmentupforseveralyears.Buttheoutlookremainedpoor:theoutputatSearchlight'smines
continuedtodrop,to$23,000in1911.TheBrownfamilymovedawayin1912.
ButwhenareportappearedinSanBernardinoinearly1913thatBarnwellwasa“townofthe
pastwhereinhabitants,businessandfuturehavedeparted,”aNeedlespaperonlyscoffed.Nearly
100personslivedintown,itcontended,eightpupilswerestillenrolled,andthebusinessdistrict
stillcomprisedageneralstore,saloon,twoblacksmithshops,andafeedcorral.
WhennewlywedsBertandMaudSharpmovedtotheLanfairareain1914,afewpersonsstill
remained,includingtheranchownerandhissons,thepostmaster,aprospector,thesection
foremanoftherailroadandhiscrew,andthelegendaryDickDiamondandhiswife,Matilda.The
Diamonds,thecommunity'sonlyblackresidents,livedinaneatlittlecottage.Diamondwasa
prospector,cook,andjack‐of‐all‐trades.
Afewscatteredbuildingsmadeupthetown.Thecattlecompany'sbuildingsincludedthe
mainhouse,twosmallbunkhouses,thebarn,corral,andslaughterhouse.Acrosstherailroadtothe
southstoodthehousesoftherailroadworkers.Thestationandloadingplatformstoodinthe
angleformedwheretherailroadbranchedofftoSearchlight.Northofthecattlecompany'shouse
wasalargetwo‐storybuilding,perhapstheformerhotel.Acrosstherailroadtotheweststoodthe
abandonedsaloonandseveralsmallhouses.
Meanwhile,Searchlight'snewspaperfolded,itschiefmillburned,andtheCaliforniaEastern
begancuttingbackservice.ThepostofficeatBarnwellclosedinApril,1915.Theschoolclosed
about1918,thoughthetrainstillrandailyandtravelerscouldgetwateratthedepot.Butrail
servicetoSearchlightwassooncutbacktotwiceaweek.Thentheentiresystem,allthewayto
Gaffs,wasshutdowninlate1923andtherailstornup.
SOURCES:Asasupplycenter,Manvel(Barnwell)attractedlittleoftheattentionthat,mining
campsdid.Brief,lavishlyillustratedaccountsappearinDavidMyricksRailroadsofNevadaand
EasternCalifornia,II(citedearlier),andinStanleyPaher’sGhostTownsandMiningCampsof
Nevada(Berkeley,1970).EdgarA.Brown,thesonofthechiefstoreowner,recalledhisboyhoodin
generaltermsin"TheManvelIKnew,”Westways,October,1956,pp,22‐23.TheSearchlight
BulletinandNeedlesEyeprintedoccasionalnewsitems,1902‐1911.
76
BORATEANDMARION
GOLDANDSILVERwerenottheonlymineralssoughtbytheminingworld.
Aborateoflimeknownas“colemanite,”with“prismaticcrystalsthatsparkleinthesunlike
diamonds,”wasfoundin1882inMuleCanyon,atwistingdefilewith“morecrooksandpitches
thanthestreakofchainlightning.”Theveinswereonly12milesfromthenewlyestablished
stationofDaggett.Inwhatwasprobablythefirstdevelopmentofanonmetallicmineralinthe
Mojave,WilliamT.Coleman,aSanFranciscobusinessmagnateandthenamesakeofthemineral,
boughttheclaimsandbeganworkingthedeposits.
AfterColeman'scompanyfailed,FrancisMarion(Borax)Smithboughtthepropertyin1890.
Developmentbeganinearnest.Outofthreedeepshaftscame12tonsofcolemaniteaday‐‐
"sufficienttomeettherequirementsofthemarket”‐‐whichwashauledbya14‐mule"teamto
DaggettandthensentnorthtoAlamedaforrefining.“
Mininginthisbarren,isolatedsitewasdifficult.AllwaterhadtocomefromDaggett,aday‐
and‐a‐halfjourneyforwagons.Smithreplacedthecoal‐eatingsteamenginesatthemineswith
gasolineengines,butanattemptin1894toreplacemuleteamswithamonstroussteamtractor
namedOldDinahfailed.Thoughfewminersreceivedanyletters,eachpaidonedollaramonthfor
thepleasureofhavingagirlbringmailfivemilesfromCalicotwoorthreetimesaweek.
TheexperiencewithOldDinahillustratedthegrowingimportanceofborateminerals.The
boratesgeneratedmorerevenuein1895thanallthecounty'ssilvermines.About75menworked
inthemineinearly1896,thoughemploymentwouldfluctuatewiththedemandforborax.Small
gasolineengineshoistedtheboratestobins,fromwhichthree20‐muleteamswouldhaulthe
mineraltoDaggett.TheactivitywassogreatthatapostofficenamedBoratewasestablishedin
July,1896.
Thecampbythencomprisedasimpleclusterofcabinsjammedbetweentheroadandthe
wallsofMuleCanyon.Althoughmanyminerspreferredtoliveindugoutsduringhotweather,the
companyprovidedabunkhouse,astore,whichlaterhousedthepostoffice,anunderstocked
readingroom,andhousesforthesuperintendentandstorekeeper,whohadfamilies.Onasteep
hilloverlookingtheminestood“TheSmithHouse,”whichwasusedbySmithandothercompany
officials.Thehousehadtobeattachedtotherockswithguywirestokeepthearea'shighwinds
fromblowingitover.
ItwasawonderthatSmith'sconcern,PacificCoastBoraxCompany,wasabletomaintain
eventhissimpleoperation.Thedemandforboraxhadfallenduringthedepressionofthe1890's;
viciouscompetitionkeptpriceslow.Managementhadalreadycutthemeagerwagesofitsminers
from$3adayto$2.50,thoughthepriceofboardwascutfrom$1adayto75cents.
Smithhadtofindanotheroutletforhisproduct.Thatsummer,1896,SmithsailedforEurope,
wherehewasintroducedtotwoyoungmenwhoweremakingfoodpreservatives.Theyneededa
steadysupplyofborax.Withoutdelay,Smithengineeredamergeroftheirtwocompaniesand,the
nextyear',theybuiltamodernrefineryatBayonne,NewJersey,tofendoffcompetitioninthe
East.Then,inearly
77
1898,thenewregimebuiltan11‐milenarrow‐gaugerailroad,theBorate8.Daggett.Overit
rolledtwolocomotives,theFrancisandMarion,andflatcarsthatcouldbeconvertedintomineral
carriers.FourmilesnorthofDaggett,atMarionsiding,acalciningplantwasbuilttoroastlow‐
gradeores.High‐gradeoreandtheroastedproductwereshippedtoAlameda(latertoBayonne)
forrefining.Inmid‐1900,exactly100residentslivedatBorateand17atMarion,includingseveral
womenandchildren.
ButtroublecontinuedtohauntSmith.Thoughlarge,themineraldepositsatBoratewere
becominglesspureandhardertorefine.Thehighcostofminingandprocessingmadeborax
miningamarginallyprofitablebusinessatbest.Meanwhile;smallbutwell‐establishedrivals,
notablytheSterlingBoraxCompany,werepressingthePacificCoastCompanyhard.
Smithdevisedastrategytorescuehisholdings.Inlate1902,hesentprospectorsto
Coleman'soriginalclaimsintheFuneralRange,justeastofDeathValley,andevenconsideredthe
constructionofasteam‐tractorroad.SpurredbythegoldandsilverstrikesinwesternNevada,
Smithbeganworkin1904onarailroadtoDeathValley,theTonopah8.Tidewater.Thesummer
wassohotthatheclosedtheMarionplantandreducedtheforceatBorateto25men.
Therelocationofboraxminingwasnosmallmatter.Onlyayearbeforetheshutdown,250
menworkedinthemine'stwo600‐footshafts.TheBayonneplantbythenwasprocessingallthe
ore.
ButBoratewouldsoonbehistory.EvenbeforethearrivaloftheTonopah8.Tidewater
Railroad,acrewwastakingoutorefromthenewlydevelopedLilaC.Mine,oneofColeman's
originalclaimsintheFuneralRange.RailsfinallyreachedtheLilaC.inAugust,1907.Tokilloffhis
rivals‐‐orsohethought‐‐Smithcutthepriceofhisrefinedproductfromsevencentstofiveanda
halfcents.
SmithshutdowntheBorateoperationsthatOctober,thoughthepostofficelingereduntil
December.Thebuildings,machinery,andemployeesweremovedtotheLilaC.Therailsofthe
Borate8.Daggettweretornupandthelocomotivesandtherollingstocksold.
SOURCES:OneoftheearlyrusheswascoveredbytheCalicoPrintin1885.Theearlyoperations
underSmithwereobservedbyJohnSpearsinhisIllustratedSketchesofDeathValleyandOther
BoraxDesertsofthePacificCoast(Chicago,1892)andbytheStateMiningBureauinReport11
(1892).
Becausetheboraxindustrywasintenselycompetitive,onlyafewitemsleakedouttothe
press,suchastheMining&.ScientificPress,NeedlesEye,SaturdayReview(SanBernardino),and
RedlandsCitrograph.Oneofthefewfull‐lengthdescriptionsoftheoperationswaswrittenbyDay
AllenWilley,“BoraxMininginCalifornia,”Engineering&MiningJournal,Oct.6,1906(v.82),pp,
633‐634.
FullphotographicaccountsappearinRuthC.Woodman,comp.,TheStoryofthePacificCoast
BoraxCompany(LosAngeles,1951),anauthorizedhistory'DavidMyrick'sRailroadsofNevada
andEasternCalifornia,II(citedearlier);PatriciaJerniganKeeling,ed.,OnceUponaDesert(already
cited);andGeorgeH.Hildebrand,BoraxPioneer:F.M.Smith(SanDiego,1982),athorough,well‐
balancedbiography.
78
MINNEOLA THEANTELOPEVALLEYwasnottheonlypartoftheMojaveDesertthatseemedripefor
farming.
TheMojaveRiverValley,windingthroughthecentraldesert,wasanespeciallypopularlocale
inwhichtostartranchesandfarms.
ThemostunusualandambitiousattempttocolonizethevalleywasmadebytheSouthern
CaliforniaImprovementCompany,organizedintheearly1890's.Theconcernplannedtodrivea
woodenbarrier,orsubmergeddam,intotheusuallydryriverbednearDaggettanddredgeouta
ditchtoaproposedfarmingcolony,namedMinneola,threeorfourmilestotheeast.Besides
buildingupatown,thecompanyhopedtoprovidehydroelectricpowertotheminesandmillsof
Calico.
Workapparentlygotofftoanenergeticstartin1895.AcorrespondentfortheSanBernardino
DailySunreportedinDecember:“Withourbrightsunshineandbalmyweatherweareableto
combineanticipationofthesettlementofthisdesertwhichisasfertileascanbefoundanywhere,
provideditcanbeirrigated,theaccomplishmentofwhichisapparentlynearathand.”Employing
80menand34teamsofhorses,thecompanywaspushingwork“withgreatvigor.”A“finehotel”
wasscheduledforconstruction,largecropsofgoodfruitandalfalfawereassured,and“Allfeel
thatabrightfutureforthedeserthasdawned....”Infact,backedbyrailroadofficialsand
extravagantlypromoted,Minneolawasenvisionedasamajorcenterofagricultureandindustryin
SouthernCalifornia.
YetMinneolawouldneverdevelopbeyondamodestcolony.IthadtobeconcededinMarch,
1896,that“notmuchsettlement”hadtakenplace.Fortyacresofbarleyplantedbythecompany
was“comingupnicely,”a50‐footwellwasproducing“reasonablycold”softwater,andworkon
thedam,oncesuspended,wasabouttoresume.Meanwhile,petitionssoonledtothe
establishmentofapostoffice(April)and,with22.childreninresidence,aschooldistrict.The
constructionofadepot,blacksmithshop,evenaplant‐fiberfactorywereplanned.Atitspeak,
Minneolacontainedthehotel,areal‐estateoffice,theschool,thepostoffice,andseveralhouses.
Butthemid‐1890'sturnedouttobeapoortimetostartafarmingcolony.Aprolonged
depressionanddroughtdrieduptheprospectsforinvestmentandcultivation.Thepostoffice
closedinMay,1897.Thoughthecompanycompletedthelongditch,thedamandflumewereleft
halffinished,theriverbedyieldedonlyone‐quartertheexpectedwater,andtheconcernwent
bankruptin1898.Stimulatedbyafewsmallrevivals,theschooldistrictsurviveduntil1924.
SOURCES:Informationisscant.Thestoryofthecolonypulledtogetherfromoccasionalpiecesina
varietyofpublications,especiallytheRedlandsCitrograph,DavidThompson'swater‐supplypaper
ontheMojaveDesert(citedearlier),andJ.B.Lippincott,“WaterSupplyofSanBernardinoValley,”
inU.S.GeologicalSurvey,NineteenthAnnualReport(1898),pt.4.
79
DALE
WHENTHEVETERANTRAVELERJ.SmeatonChasestoppedatamineintheDaledistrictin
1915,helookedattheprecariouslifelinethatconnectedthedistricttothenearestrailroad,at
Amboy:“Theviewtothenorthwasmemorableasanexampleoftheultra‐desolate.Beyondthe
raggedbrownforegroundlaythepalegrayexpanseofadrylake,whitenednearitscentrebythe
alkalinedepositfromitsvanishedwater.BeyondthatrosetheashywalloftheSheephole
Mountains,quitelunarintheirlookofgeologicageanddreariness.Athread‐likelinethatskirted
thelakebedandfadedinagapofthehillsmarkedtheroadtoAmboy....”
Whowoulddaretomineinsuchanarea?Anuntoldnumberofhardylonersand
sophisticatedinvestorsfromthecitiesofCalifornia.WithinmilesofChase,whowasstayingatthe
SupplyMine,werehalfadozenproducingminesandadozenortwothatoccasionallymadenews.
Theearliesthistoryofthedistrictismurky.TheVirginiaDaleMinewasdiscoveredin1885,
reportedlybyTomB.LyonsandJohnny(aliasQuartz)Wilson.Theclaimlayabout35milessouth
ofCadiz,astationontheSantaFéline,andnearadrylakenamedafterprospectorJohnBurt
(sincerenamedDaleLake).LyonsandWilsonorganizedtheVirginiaDaleMiningCompanyand
builtafive‐stampmill‐‐thefirstinthedistrict‐‐atawellnearthelakebedin1887.(Alas,“oneof
thesandstormsforwhichthedesertisfamous”laterburiedtheplant.)Yetevenwithsucha
favorablestart,miningremainedstuntedfornearlyadecade.
Startingin1895,strikesofmoderate‐andhigh‐gradeorestirredtheregion'sminingcircles.
TheowneroftheGypsyMinepersonallybroughtin16men,atrainofthreewagonsand12
horses,machinery,campequipment,andenoughsuppliestolasttwomonths.Byearly1896,the
districthadbecome“overrunwithminersandprospectors.”Twocountysupervisorscameacross
20teams“heavilyloadedwithprospectors'outfits.”TheRedlandsCitrographgushedthatthe
“nextrushinminingcircleswillbetoVirginiaDale.Marktheprediction....Soonmillswill
commencetheirceaselessclatterandthenmoneywillbegintogooutinstreams.Keepyoureye
onVirginiaDale.”
Aboutthen,asettlementofadobesgrewuparoundawelldugbyLyons(Burt'sWell),near
theVirginiaDalemill.Apostoffice,servedbydailymaildeliveriesfromCadiz,wasestablishedin
November,1896;suppliesandlumberwerestillteamedbyWaltersStation(thepresentMecca),
ontheSouthernPacificRailroad,tothesouth.Weekslater,thecountysupervisorswereaskedto
establishafull‐fledged“court;township.“...Nowwhentheygetajusticeofthepeaceandacouple
ofconstables,togetherwithadeputysheriff,VirginiaDalewillblossomoutintoaregular,old
fashioned,flourishingminingcampwithallthenecessaryconcomitants.”
Thesewordswerehardlyanexaggeration.About600to700menweredoing“agreatdealof
work”ina12x16‐miledistrictinearly1897.DaleCitywasplattedinMarch.“Thingsoutin
VirginiaDalearelively,very....”DaleCitysupportedtwostores,thepostoffice,ablacksmith
shop,wagonandstagelinesrunningtoarailroad,and“otherconcomitants.ofcivilizationwill
veryshortlymaterialize....everythingislovely.”
Thedistrictwasapoorman'sdream.Eightto10dry‐washingmachineswereatworkinJune,
1897.Thatfall,15menweretakingout$1,000inplacergoldaweek.Despitetheheat,40to50
menworkedinthedistrictduringthesummerof1898.Anestimated$25,000hadbeentakenout
oftheplacersin15months.
80
Thelodeminers,too,weredoingwell.Bythefallof1898,foursmallstampmillswere
running,andthemineswereturningout$1,000aweekbyearly1899.Twoofthemweresoon
downseveralhundredfeet.
Butthisboombegantofizzle.Theplacerswerepeteringout,andthelodemineswereslowto
develop.Norwastheweather“whollyinvitingtothetenderfoot.”Withtemperatureshitting125
degreesF.,mostoftheminessuspendedworkduringthesummer,althoughrichdepositsatthe
Capitol(Capitola)groupkeptoperationsgoingyearround.
Thedistrict'sisolationremainedagreaterproblem.Freightandmailwerecarriedalong
roundaboutroutesthroughthepresentJoshuaTreeNationalMonumenttoWaltersStation
(Mecca),Banning,andPalmSprings,about60to80milessouth.TheDale‐Walterscircuit,ofabout
150miles,requiredfivedays:theDaleBanningroundtriptooksixdays,Itmighttakeuptofour
weeksforareplacementparttoarrive.Once,aftertheO.K.haddrilledholesforblasting,itwas
learnedthattheminelackedtheexplosivestofiretheshots.“...Itisbutanotherillustrationof'so
nearandyetsofar.'...”
Itwaslittlewonderthatfreightusuallycost$20aton.Tocrossthe4,600‐footsummitof
PushawallaCanyon,oneteamsterwouldlocktherearwheelsofhiswagonwithchainsanda
brake‐log,thenhalfdragthewagon,chainsgratingandwheelsscreechingagainsttheboulders,20
yardsupthegrade,restafewminutes,andrepeatthisroutineeightto10times.
Thelackofwater,however,remainedthemostserioushindrancetomining.Fromthe
district'sscatteredspringsandwells,placerminershadtobringwater10miles.TheIvanhoemine
andmillbroughtwaterfourmiles,theO.K.nearly10miles,andtheBrooklynarecord23miles.
Thesedrawbackstooktheirtoll.Only63personslivedinthedistrictinmid‐1900,whenmine
ownerCharlesB.Eatonassertedthatanyonewith“capitalandgritenough”toinvestinapowerful
pumpingplantcould“bringthecampoutwitharushandmakemoneyforallinterested....”
Eatondidnothavelongtowait.First,theminingthatstillwenton‐‐lodemining‐‐hadshifted
south‐‐five,10,even15miles‐‐intothePintoMountains.Andfullydevelopedlodeminingrequired
massivesuppliesofwater.
ThecompanythatownedtheBrooklynandLosAngelesminesinstalledapumpnearDalein
thespringof1901andlaidaneight‐milepipelineoveradividetotheBrooklynandother
properties.Thoughtheplantwasconsideredasuccess“asfarasitgoes,”itsdailyoutputof5,000
gallonsofwarm,heavilymineralizedwatercouldbarelysupplytheneedsoftheBrooklynandthe
O.K.,eachwithitsownthirstymillsandthirstymen.
Otherchangesfollowed.TheVirginiaDaledistrictwasreorganizedinJanuary,1902,asthe
Citrographjoked:“TheminersoverintheVirginiaDaleminingdistrict'gatthemselvestogether'
theotherdayanddeclaredthat'Virginiamustgo.'Andsheincontinentlyvamoosed.Whichall
meansthatthenameofthedistricthasbeenshortenedto'Dale.'...”Meanwhile,thecountybuilta
wagonroadfromAmboy,35milesaway,incontrasttothe75milestoWalters.Afewmonths
later,thetownandpostoffice(May)movedeightmilessoutheast,toaflatbelowtheup‐and‐
cominglodemines.SinceDalehadno.hotel,overnightvisitorswouldsleepinthestore.Mailstill
arrivedfromPalmSpringsonceaweek,butawell‐circulatedpetitionledtomakingAmboythe
jumping‐offpointbyearly1903..
81
AsChaselaterobserved,thisshortcutprovedtobeaformidableroute.Travelerspaid$5to
rideinabuckboardstagefromAmboy;thebarrenlunchstopwashumorouslynamed“Lakeview
Hotel.”Passengersfoundthey'couldmakebettertimeupthegradefromtheAmboysaltflatsby
walking.
OutsidenewDalewasatinygraveyard.Foryears,awoodenheadstonemarkedthegraveof
CharlesThomas,aminerfromtheO.K.InJune,1903,Thomas,whowassaidtobedrunk,went
aftera$400goldbrickabouttobesent“inside"‐‐tothecoast.Brandishinghissix‐shooter‐,he
marchedthepopulationofDaletothepostoffice,whereconstableJoeWagnerhadlefthisgun.
Wagner“wastoldtogethisgunandgetitquick....”Wagnersteppedinside,pickeduphispistol,
andshotthroughthewindow.Thomasdiedinstantly.Wagnerreceived“theheartythanksofthe
Dalepeopleforriddingthecampofadesperadoandwould‐bethief.”
Nearbystoodtheheart‐shapedmarbleheadstoneofCarlP.McCabe.Thesonofsaloonkeeper
PercyMcCabeandhiswife,Adaline,CarldiedinJanuary,1904.Hewas10weeksold.
Evenold‐timerscouldbecomevictims.Actinguponabet,MattRileysetoutonfootforMecca
(formerlyWalters)onesummerday.Hecarriedonlyabottleofbourbon.Rileydiedwithinsightof
anoasis.AndSamJoiner,whoregularlycarriedlong2x8‐inchtimbersoverhisshoulder,was
felledbyheatstroke.Hisloadpinnedhimuntilthesunset,whenitbecamecoolenoughforhimto
recover.
ThoughDaleservedabouttwodozenmines,twowereespeciallyimportantinbuildingupthe
district.
Thoughonlyasmallproducer,theIvanhoebuiltatwo‐mileroadtoDale,broughtincrushing
andcyanideplants,andlaiditsownpipelinefromFerguson'sWell,nearthedrylake,totanksat
themine.Thecompanybroughtthedistrictclosertotheoutsideworldwhenitjoinedthe
BrooklyninbuildingatelephonelinetoAmboyinlate1903.Upto25menworkedatthemine
then.BesidestheBrooklynandIvanhoe,thelineconnectedtheLosAngeles,O.K.,andSupply
minesandthetown.
TheBrooklyn,however,wasconsideredtheidealof“legitimatemining.”Asearlyasmid‐
1902,itsmineandmillwererunningnightandday,anditspumpwasfurnishing“splendidwater.”
TuckedinapocketofahillinthePintos,thecampinApril,1906,consistedofhousesandquarters
forthemen,diningroomandakitchen,andstables.Arecentlymodernizedsix‐stampmill
overlookedthecamp.
ComingintoprominencewastheSupplyMine.TheSupplycontainedthelargestorebodies
andmostextensiveworkingsinthedistrict,asix‐stampmill,crushingandcyanideplants,and25
employeesinlate1903.ButlitigationbetweenH.A.Landwehr,along‐timemineowner,andhis
fellowstockholdersclosedtheSupplyafter1908.
WhenyoungFredVaile,freshoutofPomonaCollege,arrivedduringthespringof1909,the
townwasaboutdead.OnlytheBrooklynMinewasactive.TheTheonlyplacesstilldoingbusiness
weretheShamrockandDalesaloons,astore,andthepostoffice;thebarbershopandblacksmith
shopwereempty.Highonahillstoodtheredlight“district"‐‐oneshack.For$50,Vaileboughta
fullyfurnishedcabin‐‐oneofonlytwointown‐‐thatcontainedabedroom,livingroomkitchenette,
andtheonlyscreendoorincamp.ItwaseasytoseewhyVailecouldgetineasily.Thepopulation
82
ofthetownandminecampsdippedto41ayearlater,early1910.Monthslatercamethisreport:
“NoelectionwasheldatDale‐onceabigminingcamp.LikeCalicotheoldcamphasgonebackto
thedesert.”
Daleexperiencedonemoreimportantrevival.Landwehr,whofinallywonbacktitletothe
Supplyanditssister,theO.K.,leasedthetwominestotheUnitedGreenwaterCopperCompanyin
thefallof1911.UnitedGreenwaterhadfleecedinvestorsatDeathValleyafewyearsearlierand
wasnowawashincash.UnitedGreenwaterwasworkingabout30meninlate1912,then
deepenedthemainshafts,to1,100feet,andfinallyinstalledacyanideplantandalargermill.The
Supplybecamethemostimportantproducerinthedistrict.Thepropertyproducedsomuchgold
thattwoworkmenstoleabucketofprecipitatesandtookoffforIndio.Buttheprecipitatesleaked
throughaholeinthebucket,andapossecaughtupwiththematCottonwoodSprings,awell‐
knownoasis.ButpostmasterIsaac(Ike)Reedwasmoresuccessful.Thoughaformerjusticeofthe
peace,Reedfledwith$1,075inpostalfunds.ABlythepaperjoked:“PerhapsReedgotthirstyand
wentouttoSaltonSeaforadrink,aswaterisscarceatDale,thesupplyforthecamphavingtobe
broughtfourmilesuphill.”Perhapsnotsurprisingly,thepostofficewasmovedtotheSupply
Mine'scampinearly1915,andDalewasabandoned.
Thevariousboomshadcreatedthreesettlements:theoriginalDaleCity,nearthedrylake;
“NewDale,”tothesouth;and“DaletheThird,”attheSupplyMine.Anotherveterandesert
traveler,J.SmeatonChase,foundthisstringofsettlementsofinterestwhilemakingahorseback
journeyinJuly,1915.
First,atLyons'(Burt's)Well,onlya“fewscrapsofadobewall”remainedtomarkthesiteof
DaleCity,wherehe“couldbarelyfindshelterfromthewindinwhatwasleftofVirginiaDale.The
historianofaminingcampmustbeearlyonthesceneifheistofindanythingmorethanthe
groundonwhichitstood.”
NewDalehaddegeneratedinto“arowoflittlebuildings”thatservedas“blindpigs,”or
speakeasies,“asortofparasitewhoseonlyreasonforbeingwastohelptheminersofDaletoget
ridoftheirmoney....”Awatertroughandwarymanremained.
Ridingupthestairway‐likestreetattheSupplyMine'scamp,Chasefoundamorewelcome
reception.That“friendlychap,”thecashier,“atoncetookchargeofmeasanunexpectedguest;
insistedonmytakinghisroomformyown,andquarteredKaweahinthe'Company's'stables.
Otherconvenienceswereofferedbytheresidentdoctor,andineffectIwasmadefreeofthe
camp.”
Chasefound50to60men,halfadozenwomen,about10children,andone“badlyspoiled
baby.”Theminingoperationwas“ahighlyorganizedaffair”withelectriclightsinthebuildings
andwaterpipedsixmilesfromthelake.“...Dayandnightthewhirrandcrashofenginesgoeson
unceasingly.Itwasstrangetowakeatnightandheartheroarofmachineryinthatremoteplace..
..”
Besidestheminestructures,thevillageconsistedof“ascoreorsooftemporarylooking
housesandcabins,spottedaboutwithoutanypretenseoforder.Astore,withkitchenanddining‐
roomattached,andacashier'sofficeofstoneareallthebuildingsofanysize.Thepost‐office
sharesquarterswithaClub‐roomcontaininganantiquepool‐room,thefeltworntoacuriosity
andthepocketsashopelessasabachelor's.RelicsoftheFourthremainedintheshapeofawire
cablestretchedacrossthestreetwithfag‐endsofrocketsandRomancandlesstillattached.”
83
ThiswastheSupplyMineatitspeak.Itwasthenemployingabout80men.(Incontrast,eight
to10menworkedattheBrooklyn.)Butthecompanywasrunningintowaterandhard‐to‐work
oredeepintheshaft;Landwehrreportedlywasbecomingmoredifficulttodealwith.The
companycutbackitsoperations;thepostofficeclosedinOctober,1915;thestagelinetoAmboy
wasdiscontinuedin1916,aboutwhenallworkat,theSupplyandBrooklynwashalted.
Forseveralyears,newDaleremainedintact.Agovernmentgeologistfoundadesertedtown
in1918.Onlyeightresidentslivedintheareain1920,thoughtheveteranminerSamJoinerstill
inhabitedthefewbuildings.WhenDaveandAnnaPostearrivedtoreworktheVirginiaDalein
1923,theDaleSaloonremainedinimmaculatecondition‐‐eventothecuesandchalklyingatthe
pooltable.InwhatmusthavebeentheDaleSaloon,awriterforTouringTopicsin1928sawapool
table,watercooler,andsafe.Bottlesstillstoodonthepooltable.Envelopesandoldpapers
gathereddustinthepostoffice.
Butasroadscontinuedtopenetratetheregion,Dalewasignominiouslytornapart.Campers‐
shotapartthethousandsofbottlesbehindthesaloon,whichwasburned.MickeyThornton,who
movedtothedistrictin1930,tookapartthepostofficeandusedthelumbertobuildashackand
burnedtwosacksofmail,thoughhelaterhopedtoseearevivalofthecamp.ThePostessawacar
fromLosAngelescarryawayadresser,completewithdrawersandasun‐warpedmirror;another
autohadapacksaddleonitshood.
Afinalrevival,(duringthe1920'sand1930's,considerablyaddedtothedistrict'soutput.But
becausegoldminingwasconsiderednon‐essentialtothewareffort,apresidentialordershut
downgoldminesthroughouttheUnitedStatesin1942.TheBrooklynhadproducedmorethan
$150,000ingold,theCarlylemorethan$125,000,theGoldCrown$385,000,theO.K.$200,000,
andtheSupplymorethan$500,000.
...
...Dustuntodust;ashesuntoashes.NotevenvandalscoulderasetheromanceoftheDale
district.Ridingsouthonhishorsein1915,Chasecouldonlymarvelatthedecrepitudeofthat
narrowcanyon“whereeveryhillsidehadametalliclook....Everywherewereprospectholes,or
deeperworkingswherethemountainhadspewedoutpilesofglitteringgrayrock.Hereandthere
werescrapsofmachinery,oldwindlassesandboilers,draggedhereatenormousexpense,now
mererustymonumentstotherulingpassion;thoughtobefair,onemustsaytoman'senergy,
hardihood,anddetermination,aswell.”
SOURCES:TheminingandmillingoperationswerefullyreportedintheMining&ScientificPress,
1894‐1905,andtheLosAngelesMiningReview,1899‐1904,andtheRedlandsCitrograph,1895‐
1907.Twomodernminingoperations(theBrooklynandSupply)impressedGeorgeWharton
James,TheWondersoftheColoradoDesert(Boston,1906),andJ.SmeatonChase,CaliforniaDesert
Trails(Boston,1919).PhilipJohnstonvisitedtheghostlyruins:“DerelictsoftheColoradoDesert,”
TouringTopics(Westways),February,1928,pp,14‐18,37,39,and41‐42.
ThebestmodernaccountisinLuluRasmussenO'Neal'sclassichistoryoftheTwentynine
Palmsarea:APeculiarPieceofDesert(LosAngeles,1957),whichhasrecentlybeenreprinted.
Interviewsformthebasisofthreepopularaccounts:HaroldandLucilleWeight,eds.,“Ghost
TownWithRestlessFeet,”CalicoPrint(TwentyninePalms),June,1951;RonaldDeanMiller,Mines
84
oftheHighDesert(Glendale,1965);andJohnsHarrington,“FlightfromNewDale,”Westways;
March,1943(v.35),pp.14‐15.TheseaccountsallcontaininterestingphotosofDaleII.
WilliamClark'sGoldDistrictsofCalifornia(citedearlier)containssomewhatgeneralfigures
ontheoutputoftheleadingmines.
ThedistrictseemedtobeafavoriteofL.BurrBeldenintheSanBernardinoSun‐Telegram:
“DaleDistrictLongProducerofRichGoldOre,”Feb.21,1954,p,20;“$100OreFromDaleNotedby
Mint'sDirector,”June23,1957,p24;and“ValleyLeadersAreOwnersofBrooklynGroup,”June30,
1957,p.20.
85
COLUMBIAMINE
THEMACEDONIAMINE.Oneofthepioneerdiscoveriesoftheearly1860's,wouldsuffera
checkeredexistence.ThepropertylayintheProvidenceMountains,about20mileswestofthe
futuretownofManvel(Barnwell).
Miningrevivedbrieflyabout1871,whentheMacedoniaareawasrenamedtheNewYork
miningdistrict.Asmallmillwasbuiltatthemineinmid‐1872,andalittlerichsilverorewas
shippedoutafewmonthslater.
Informationonthedistrict'shistoryremainssketchy.TheMacedoniawasreactivatedasthe
ColumbiaMineabout1897,whentheworkingswereextended.Employing12meninDecember,
1900,aLosAngelescompanycompleteda10‐stampmillandawellafewmonthslater.Theoreon
thedumpwasexpectedtoyieldabout$180atoningoldandsilver.Apostoffice(ColumbiaMines)
wasestablishedinSeptember,1901.Animprovedsourceofwateraidedthemill'soperations.
TwentymenwereworkinginMarch,1902whentheSanBernardinoCountysheriffshutdownthe
mineatleastforawhile.ThepostofficeclosedthatNovember.Tosatisfyalargeclaim,thesheriff
attachedthemineafewmonthslater,inJanuary.1903.Themillwasremovedin1905.
Severalshort‐livedrevivalsfollowed,mainlyin1910,whentheminewaspumpedoutand
anothermillbuilt.
SOURCES:LarryVredenburghandothers,inDesertFever,giveaconcisehistory.Whatlittleelseis
knowncomesfromoccasionalitemsintheLosAngelesMiningReviewandRedlandsCitrograph,
1897‐1903. GhostTownsoftheUpperMojaveDesert
86
COPPERCITY
COPPERCITY,30mileseastofRandsburg,wasthemostprominentofseveralspeculative
copper‐miningventuresaroundBarstowandRandsburg.J.IrvingCrowellofLosAngelesbegan
sinkingshaftsandwellsasearlyasSeptember,1898.Theoreyieldedcopperandgold.Crowell
soldouttoaBostoncompany,whichemployedabout20meninlate1899.
WhatkeptCopperCityonmapsfordecades,however,wasnotitsorebutitswater.The
deepestwellsunkbyCrowellwentdown94feet;ashallowwellproduced3,000gallonsadayin
1900.
Theheavypromotionalactivityseemedtowanebyearly1900,butworkattheclaims
continued.TheJuanitashaft,thedeepestatCopperCity,reached212feetby1902.Asmallmining
campstillstoodin1909,butthehouseswerefoundtobedesolateandinruinsin1917.
SOURCES:DesertFever,byLarryVredenburghandothers,summarizesoperations.TheJuanita
andotherpropertiesareprofiledbyLewisE.AuburyinTheCopperResourcesofCalifornia
(CaliforniaStateMiningBureau,Bulletin23,1902).TheboomwascoveredbytheMining&.
ScientificPressandtheLosAngelesMiningReview,1898‐1904. GhostTownsoftheUpperMojaveDesert
87
COOLGARDIE
THECOOLGARDIEDISTRICTwasaboontomanysmall‐scaleminers.Thedistrictcompriseda
stringofdry‐washingcampsabout20milesnorthofBarstow.
ThefirstplacergoldwasfoundinshallowgravelsaboutMay,1900.ThediscovererwasDick
T.Duncan,oneofthediscoverersatKramer,whonamedhisclaimstheBlackNugget.Afewmiles
awaylaytheCoolgardieplacers.Meanwhile,tippedoffaboutthestrikes,J.W.MurphyandJack
HarrisonrushedinfromJohannesburgandclaimedalargeareaafewmileseastofCoolgardie.
(Murphywouldsinkawell,stillshownonmaps.)
ThenewsofthestrikessetRandsburg“agog,”for“miners,prospectors,speculatorsandall
kindsofmenarepullingtherebythedozens....”Thenewshadtraveledsorapidlyandtaken
“suchaholdonthosewhosemainobjectinlifeseemstobetochaseupeverystoryofarich
discovery,thatatleast200peoplearenowenroutetothe.groundfromallpointsofthecompass..
..”
ButCoolgardiewoulddisappointmany,Waterwaslacking:ithadtobehauledinfromsprings
andwells10to15milesaway.Then,too,prospectorsfromRandsburg,Mojave,andelsewhere
snappeduptheplacerpropertiesinjustaweekortwo.AtBlackNugget,forexample,thefirst
prospectors,includingMurphyandHarrison,claimed800acres.Andstilltheprospectorsflocked
in,75arrivingfromRandsburginlateMay.
MiningrevivedbyAugust.Theminerstendedtorecover$5to$25aday.Afewmenstruck
bonanzas:inOctoberalone,threeminerstookout91ouncesofgoldinthreeweeks‐‐"...Better
thanaprintshopinRedlands,”jokedtheeditoroftheRedlandsCitrograph‐‐andDuncansoldalot
weighing90ounces.Meanwhile,onegrouphadtakenout$6,000ingoldinonlyafewmonths.
Perhapsbecausethemineownersrefusedtosellorleasetheirclaims,thepopulationstaved
fairlysmall.About10menwereworkingatBlackNuggetinlateAugust;thedistrictcontainedat
most30meninearlySeptember.
MiningremainedactiveatleastthroughNovember,1900,butrainthatwintershutdown
mostoftheoperations.
Still,limitedworkcontinuedfordecades.Onecompanyin1907claimedtohaveinstalleda
highlyefficientdry‐washingsystemthatcouldprocess100tonsofgold‐bearinggraveladay.As
lateas1909,Coolgardiewasfoundtobeasmallminingsettlement,withcabinsscatteredover
severalsquaremiles.By1911,thedistricthadproducedareported$100,000.
Bythen,however,theplacerswereprobablyalmostexhausted.Onlyoneortwominerswere
seenatworkin1917.
SOURCES:TheLosAngelesMiningReviewcoveredtheboom,1900,1907‐1908.Occasionalitems
appearedintheMining&ScientificPress,Engineering&MiningJournal,RedlandsCitrograph,and
PatriciaKeeling,OnceUponaDesert(citedearlier).Vredenburghandothers,DesertFever,
describetheboom.
88
STEDMAN(CAMPROCHESTER)
Ifonemineralinthedesertsurpassesthemall,itiswater.Whilesearchingforwaterforthe
SantaFéRailwayabout1898,roadmasterJohnSuterfoundapromisingdepositofcopperand
goldintheparchedhillssouthofLudlowstation.HisBagdadandRooseveltclaimsandthe
adjacentpropertyofJohnH.GentrybecamethenucleusoftheBuckeyeMiningDistrict.
Thoughbothmenvigorouslyworkedtheirclaims,thedistrictamountedtolittleuntilSuterin
early1901soldtheBagdadgrouptoasyndicatecomposedofmembersoftheNewYorkCentral
Railroad.ThefirstshipmentofBagdadorewentoutthatDecember.Processedinthesyndicate's
millatBarstow,ityieldedmorethan$17,000.Withinmonths,47menweretakingout125tonsa
day.Bullionreturnsaveraged$600adayinearly1903,andthecompanypushedtheoutputto
200tonsaday.Meanwhile,directorBenjaminE.ChaseboughtGentry'sclaimsandorganizedthe
Bagdad‐ChaseMiningandMillingCompany.
Thelackofcheaptransportationlimitedshipmentstotherichestore.Underthewatchfuleye
ofStagg,thesyndicatestartedworkonastandard‐gaugerailroadtoruneightmilessouthfrom
Ludlow.NamedtheLudlow&SouthernRailway,thelinewascompletedinJune,1903.Waterfor
thecampwashauledintankcarsfromNewberrystation,nearDaggett.
ThoughsmallcampsclusteredaroundtheGentryandRooseveltgroups,themainsettlement
wasattheBagdad.ItwasnamedCampRochester,inhonorofthehometownofseveralsyndicate
directors.While100mentoiledattheBagdadandChaseminesinOctober,1903,Stagglet
contractsfortheconstructionof40spaciouscottages,tobepaintedand“madethoroughly
modern.”A10,000‐gallontankperchedonahillprovidedwaterfordomesticuseandfire‐fighting.
TelegramscouldbesentbytelephoningLudlow.Aschoolhouseand10‐stampmillswerelater
builtattheRooseveltandBagdad‐Chase.ApostofficenamedafterdirectorJ.H.Stedmanwas
establishedinMarch,1904,probablyinthecompanystore.Bythen,theBagdademployed50men,
theChase25,andtheRoosevelt40.
Staggbelievedinefficiency,hardwork,andcleanliving.Onewriterinearly1903accused
Staggofbeingaczarwhocontrolledthecamp'swatersupply,requiredthecompanystoretosell
onlytoemployees,andkeptoutsaloonsandgambling.ButStagglatermaintainedthat“theeraof
arip‐roaringold‐timecampispast,andthatintoxicationshouldnomorebeafeatureinamining
campthaninanyotherwell‐regulatedcommunity....”Minerswhohadbeenspendthrifts,Stagg
said,nowhadcomfortablebankaccounts.
Happily,Ludlowwasnearby.ThestartofworkontheTonopah&TidewaterRailroadtothe
boraxandgoldfieldsofDeathValleyandNevadain1904transformedLudlowfromastationtoa
completetown.Aschooldistrictwasorganizedtoservebothcommunities;Staggevenserved
brieflyasitsadministrator.Mary(Ma)Preston'sstore,restaurant,hotel,saloon,andpoolroom
offeredrelieftothemenchafingunderStagg'srestrictions.Shrewdandfeisty,shewouldnot
hesitatetopunchoutdrunksandrowdies.Buttothosedownontheirluck,shewouldbegenerous
andwarmhearted.
Theminessettledintoaperiodofsteadybutunspectacularproductivityduring1904.Regular
newsreportsceased;thepostofficeclosedinNovember,1907,thoughtheLudlow&Southern
wasstillmakingregulardailytrips(45minuteseachway!)in1909.About40menwereatworkin
early1910,whentheBagdadChaseGoldMiningCompanysolditsoperations;themines,railroad,
89
andmillinBarstowwereallowedtodecay.ThechiefsourceofcopperandgoldinSanBernardino
County,theminesbythenhadproduced$4,500,000.
ThecompanysolditsrailroadandminesinOctober,1910,tothePacificMinesCorporation.
PacificMineswasheadedbyJohnHaysHammond,aworld‐renownedminingengineer.The
purchaseprovedtobeatonictothecamp.Therailroadandbuildingswererepairedandthe
operationsmodernized.Airdrillsreplacedhanddrills;lanternsandcandlesgavewaytoelectric
lights.Thelaborforcerosefrom15mento75inlessthanayear.
PacificMinespulledoutin1916;themineswentintoreceivership.YetStedmanwouldnot
die.Miningcontinuedinto1917,andeverythingremainedingoodcondition‐‐themachineshop
androundhouse,electric‐powerplant,phoneline,eventhebigwatertankonthehill.Thecamp,
accordingtotheBarstowPrinter,wasbeing“keptinasanitarycondition,andcontentmentis
foundamongtheemployees....”
Although1917mayhavemarkedStedman'slastyearasaviablesettlement,occasional
miningcontinuedinaverylimitedwayfordecades.TherailsoftheLudlow&Southernwere
pulledoutabout1935.Becauseofthesilicainitsores,thepropertywasonlyoneoffourgold
minesinthestateallowedtooperateduringWorldWarII.Theminesfinallyclosedin‐1954,
havingbeensunkto450feet.Themineshadproduced$6millioningold,orhalfthecounty's
output.
SOURCES:TheMining&ScientificPress,LosAngelesMiningReview,andRedlandsCitrograph
extensivelycoveredtheearlyyears,1901‐1904,andtheBarstowPrintercoveredthelateryears,
1910‐1917.DavidMyrick'sRailroadsofNevadaandEasternCalifornia,II(citedearlier),containsa
sumptuouslyphotographedchapterontherailroadandcamp.
AlsoofinterestaretwofeaturesbyL.BurrBeldenintheSanBernardinoSun‐Telegram:
“EasternersGet$10MillionFromBagdadChase,”Nov.23,‐1952,p,18,and“MillionairesHad
BonanzaOreinBagdadChase,”March27,1960,p.B‐8.
90
ATOLIA
FivemilessouthofthegallowsframesofRandsburg,weatheredbuildingsspeckleaslopeof
alluviumpockmarkedwiththecavernouspitsofmines.Thewarm‐huedmoundcalledRed
Mountainloomsovereverything.
ThisisthesiteofAtolia.Forseveraldecadesinthiscentury‐andespeciallyduringWorldWar
I‐‐thiswasthechiefcenteroftungstenminingintheUnitedStates.
Theoriginsofthisdistrictarenotclear.Whileplaceringforgold,prospectorshadtrouble
withawhite‐bluemineraltheycalled“heavyspar,”whichwouldclogpansfullofgold.Analysis
showedthespartobescheelite,themainsourceoftungsten.
Tungstenwasarelativelyunknownmetaljustcomingintouseinthemodernworld.The
elementwasscarcelyknownuntilthe1860's.Bythe1890's,tungstenbegantoreplacethefibrous
filamentsinlightbulbs.Atthesametime,GermanywasabouttochallengeBritain'ssupremacyas
anavalandmilitarypower.TungstenwasputintousetotoughenthearmorplateonGermany's
growingnavalfleet.
ImportantdepositsofscheelitewerefoundintheStringerdistrict,agoldareajustsouthof
Randsburg.ButthebiggeststrikesweremadeatthePapooseandUnionlodes,nearthefootofRed
Mountain,in1904and1905.Onlyyardsawaywasthe“spudpatch,”animmenselyrichground
wheresmall‐timeminerscoulddrywashoutlargenuggetsofscheelite.Happily,theRandsburg
Railwaycrossedthedistrict.
Large‐scaleminingbeganwhentwopartners,knownonlyasAtkinsandDeGolia,boughtthe
richestclaimsinJanuary,1906,andalmostatoncebeganshippingoretoGermany,thenBritain.
Employingonly30men,theirAtoliaMiningCompanyquicklyprosperedandbeganpaying
dividendswithintwoyears.(Thefirmwouldeventuallycometoproduce95percentofthe
district'stungstenconcentrate.)
"Quiteaminingcamp”grewupneartheclaims.Thebuildingsflankeda100‐foot‐widestreet
runningeastfromtherailway.MinesuperintendentCharleyTaylorsuggestedthe“smooth‐
soundingname”ofAtolia‐‐acontractionofthenamesoftheowners.Atoliapostofficewas
establishedinMarch,1906,andaschoolwasstartedaboutayearlater.TheRandsburgMiner
calledthesettlement“oneofthemostactivelittleminingcampsinthispartofthedistrict.”
Themineowners,inthemeantime,weretiredofshippingtheiroretoEuropeorhavingit
concentratedatBarstowforreshipment.Theybeganputtingupasolid,80x39‐footmillbuildingin
1907.Risingfromthebuildingwasamakeshift100‐footflagpole,fromwhichanAmericanflag
“wassimplyawaitingthecompletionofthemilltobeunfurledtothedesertbreezes.”(Waterfor
theoperationshadtocome30milesbytankcarfromKramer.)
Despitetheapproachingsummerheat,“thegeneraloutlookforthatsectionisverybright.”
TheAtoliacompanywashiring.CharlieKoehn,apioneeroftheRandsburgboom,tookout$1,350
intungstenoreintwomonths‐‐fromagoldmine!C.GrantIllingsworth,Randsburg'sleading
merchant,mined$2,000intungstenorefroman8O‐footshaft.
91
ThisearlyboomendedwiththepanicanddepressionofOctober,1907.TheAtoliamines
closedonNovember1because,asAtkinsexplained,“oftheimpossibilityofthefirmtoget
sufficientcurrencytopaytheirmenduringthismoneystringency....”Theboardinghouseclosed
onSundaymorning,andmostofthemenleftthenextnightforothercamps.Adozenmenwith
familiesremained,havingbeenpromisedworkforamonth.Onepaperlamentedthatit“seems
toobadthatapropertysogoodasthetungstenminesshouldhavetostopandthemenscattered
simplybecauseofthestringencyofthemoneysituation.Itistobehopeditwillonly.beofshort
duration.”
Afteralonglull,productionfinallyshotupfrom5,000unitsin1908to30,000unitsin1909;
itremainedhighforseveralyears.(Aunitis20poundsoftungstenconcentrate.)TheAtolia
companywasturningoutnearly25percentofthetungstenconcentrateinAmericaby1910,
puttingthedistrictjustbehindtheminesofBoulderCounty,Colorado,indomesticproduction.
Thecompanynowmadeplansforanelectric‐lightplant.
Despitetheindustrialization,Atoliawasahomeycommunity.Thearrivalofthetrainfrom
Kramerwastheeventoftheday.Thewhistleblowingfaroutinthedesertsignaledadultsand
childrenalike.Theconductorwouldtossthechildrenrolled‐updailynewspapers‐‐asmall
chocolatebartuckedinsidewouldassurethedeliveryofthepaperstotheparents.That
Thanksgiving,thewomengaveafreedancewithrefreshmentsforthe100minersandfamiliesof
this“livecamp.”
Yetprosperitywouldremainelusiveforseveralyears.Inearly1911,forexample,arecession,
slackeningdemandfortungsten,andlabortroublesforcedashutdownoftheAtoliaMineandthe
layoffof100workers.Worksoonresumed,however,andbyDecember,40minerswerebackat
workandthemillwasoperatingontwoshifts.TheBarstowPrinternowadvocatedtheformation
ofavotingprecinctforAtolia“sothecitizensofthiscountywon'tbecompelledtogoovertoKern
Countytovote.”(Atoliawaswithinwalkingdistanceofthecountyline.)Actinguponapetition,the
SanBernardinoCountysupervisorsestablishedtheprecinctinearly1912.Meanwhile,the
companyinstalledamoderntelephonesysteminitsworkings.
Afteradecadeofup‐and‐downactivity,Atoliabegantoboomagain.Itwasthesummerof
1915.ThewarinEuropehadbeenescalatingforayear.Afloodofordersformunitionsgenerated
ademandforhigh‐speedsteelsusedincuttingtoolsandriflebarrels.WhentheBritishembargoed
exportsoftungstenoresfrom“itscolonies,buyersscrambled;withinmonths,thepriceof
concentratebrieflytopped$50aunit.InColorado,thetungstenmineswereproducingfarlessore
thanexpected.
Atoliaturnedintooneofthefastest‐growingcampsintheWest.TheAtoliaMiningCompany
putupdozensoflargewood‐and‐canvastentsandframebuildingslaidoutinaneatgrid;the
firm'semploymentrosefrom30inearly1915to300neartheendoftheyear.Afterthefirm
startedupasecondmillonJanuary1,1916,thepayrolljumpedto400.Thepopulationofthetown
hit600.
Noteventheaccidentalburningofthemillafewweekslatercoulddampentheboom.
Insurancecoveredthe$40,000loss.TheAtoliacompanyatoncestartedupitsoriginalmilland
putcarpentersandothertradesmentoworkroundtheclock.Thenewplant,runby25electric
motors,couldturnout700unitsaday.Themainshaftoftheminewasalsoelectrified.
92
Now,inearly1916,Atoliawasdescribedas“ametropolitancity,evenifitstents.”Thecounty
supervisorsmadethedistrictacourttownship,givingitajusticeofthepeaceandconstable.A40‐
acretownsitewaslaidout,andlots“arebeingsoldeveryday....”Apoolroom,stationery‐cigar
storewithaclubroomattached,generalstore,bakery,andcountylibrarybranchopened.As
springapproached,thenineregularboardinghousesandtworestaurantsandchophouseswere
being“rushedtodeath.”TheoverflowwenttoRandsburgbyjitney.TheAtoliaRestaurant
CompanyopenedNo.2,“andyetthecrowdscome....”Thetwoeatinghouseswerefeeding300
personsaday.OneAtoliamineoperatorboughtahotelinRandsburgtofeedandlodgehis
workers.
Randsburgcertainlybenefitedfromthisspillover.Itsstoreswerefilledwithgoods.The
RandsburgandMojaveStageCompanywasmakingfourtripsadaytoMojave.AndtheMiner
installedaLinotype.
Becauseofthiscrushofbusiness,AtoliawasprobablythefirstdistrictinCaliforniatobenefit
fromafullrangeofmodernconveniences.InexpensiveelectricpowerfromBishopCreek,
telephoneandtelegraphservice,anddailymaildeliveriesbecameavailable.Twodomesticwater
systemsreplacedthedeliveriesbyrailwaytankcars.Autotrucksandupto30jitneysspedmail,
express,ore,andpassengerstoJohannesburg,Randsburg,Mojave,Kramer,andRandstation,even
toBakersfieldandTaft.
BytheendofMay,1916,1,200men,women,andchildrenwerelivingin500dwellings,most
ofthemtent‐housesandportablestructures.Sincefamilieswereconsideredasimportantas
transientsinthecamp'slife,thepopulaceshoweda“desiretokeeptheplacedecent.”Theschool,
forexample,enrolled51pupils.
Businesseshadsproutedeverywhere.Theyincludedfourgeneralstores,twostationery
storesandnewsstands,threebutchershops,twolumberyards,threegarages,twotheaters,three
shoemakers,threebarbershops,threepool‐halls,adrugstore,twodoctors,ashootinggallery,an
enlargedbowlingalley,ablacksmith‐machineshop,halfadozencommodioushotelsforthe
transienttrade,nineboardinghousesforregularminers,abathhouse,threeproducedealers,a
secondhand‐furniturestore,threeicecreamparlors,asawmill,asamplingandreductionplant,
andtwoweeklynewspapers,theNewsandTungstenReview,whichapparentlywereeditionsof
theBarstoworRandsburgpapers.
Themines,too,weredoingwellbeyondallexpectations.TheshaftattheUnion,themain
propertyoftheAtoliacompany,approacheditsultimatedepthof1,050feet;itsworkingswould
soontotal20,000feet.Withtungstenconcentrateaveragingnearly$35aunit,thecompany
producednearly109,000unitsin1916.
Theboompricesforconcentrateinfectedeverylevelofthecommunity.Severalbuyerswere
payingupto$2.50apoundjustforlow‐gradeore.Storeswerepayingchildrentobringin
scheelitenuggets.Businesspostedsignsoffering
"CashforHigh‐Grade,”“GroceriesforHigh‐Grade,”“MealTicketsforHigh‐Grade.”Inanearby
placergolddistrict,100menwerepaying$1asquarefeetfortungstenleases.Themaingulch.
alongtheAtolia‐Randsburgroadwascutupby“placerworkerswitheverymannerofcontrivance,
bothwetanddry,forsavingthegold,tungsten,andblack‐sandconcentrates.”
93
Theresultofthisfrenzywashigh‐grading‐‐thetheftofrichore.Orevanishedfromdumps,
warehouses,andcars.Twosacksworth$400weretakeninthepresenceofacareless‐‐or
conniving‐‐watchman.Minerswithspecialpocketssewninsidetheirshirtsandpantswould
staggerundertheweightofstolenoreastheygotoffwork.
Tensionsranhigh.ThefrequentlayoffsbytheAtoliaMiningCompanyhadalreadywipedout
theregularlaborforce,especiallyafterthefirmbegancontractingwithItalianfloatdiggers.The
Italiansreceived$3adaytodigupaproductworth$6apoundintheEast.Whenlocalorebuyers
combinedtopushdownprices,independentminerswouldmerelyreburytheirtreasures‐‐placer
scheelite‐‐toawaitbetteroffers.
Themineoperatorstriedtobringsomeorderoutofthischaos.Topreventhigh‐grading,the
AtoliaMiningCompanyinstalledroomswhereitsminershadtochangetheirclothesunderguard.
WhencivilauthoritiesarrestedseveralItalians‐‐thebulkoftheforce‐‐onsuspicionofhigh‐
grading,thecompanyfired100Italianworkerssuspectedoftheft,muchtothedelightofmany
Americans.Butthelossescontinued,asdidthearrests.Meanwhile,smallloadsoforewere
sometimessentoutbyexpress‐·at$190aton.
Buttheboomsoonsubsided.Atoliasettleddowntoamoreworkadaywayoflife.The
populationdippedtoabout900,andthemajoreventsof1917includedastereopticonlecturebya
ministerandaRedCrossparadethatsnakedthroughalltheminingcamps.Thoughthepriceof
concentratesdroppedto$16aunit,America'sdeclarationofwarandmobilizationpushed
productiontoapeakof116,000unitsin1917.Theschoolenrollment,too,peakedat71.
TheArmisticeofNovember,1918,markedtheendofthesecondboom.Theschoolplungedto
12pupils.TheAtoliacompany'soutputdroppedfromanalready‐low61,000unitsin1918toa
mere5,000unitsin1919.Thenthemineandmillclosedforthreeyears.Blamingcheapimported
tungstenforthedecline,acorrespondentfortheBarstowPrinterinFebruary,1920,calledAtolia
“adesertedminingcamp”withonly79men,women,andchildren.Thetownhadonlyone
telephoneandnotelegraphservice.Mailarrivedonlythreetimesaweek.Thepostofficeclosedin
August,1922.
ThediscoveryofalargedepositofsilverthreemilesnorthofAtoliainearly1919,onground
troddenuponbytungstenprospectorsfor15years,injectedsomelifeintotheregion'seconomy.
AgroupofcampsunderthenameofOsdick(soonrenamedRedMountain)morethandoubledthe
Atoliaschool'ssicklyenrollment(to30);theschoolboardevenopenedacampusatOsdick.
ThentheAtoliaMiningCompanyreopeneditsminesin1923.Productionsoonreached
27,000units,andthepostofficereopenedinNovember,1927.
Butasatown,Atoliawasfinished.Theoutputoftheminesbegantoslipatonce.Red
Mountain,however,wasthriving.TheAtoliaschoolclosedabout1930;thebranchlibrarycloseda
fewyearslater.Though250menleasedAtoliacompanyclaimsduringaflurryin1937,declining
tungstenpricescutthenumberofindependentminersto40.Althoughtheorebodieswerenot
exhausted,afederalreportexplained,“theeasilydiscoveredandrichestorebodieshaveprobably
beenmined....”Infact,therevivaloftheminesandmillduringWorldWarIIfailedtobringlong‐
termprosperity:in1944,theleadingmineshutdowninFebruaryfollowedbythepostofficein
July.
94
SOURCES:Consideringthegrowingimportanceoftungsten,theearliestdiscoveriesatAtolia
werepoorlycovered.OccasionalarticlesappearedintheLosAngelesMiningReviewandother
periodicals.Butonthe1915‐1918boom,unusuallydetailednewsitemsandfeaturesappearedin
theMining&ScientificPress,RandsburgMiner,BarstowPrinter,MojavePress,andLosAngeles
Times.TheMojaveRecordandtheArizonaMiningJournal(Phoenix)sporadicallycoveredtherally
andfinaldecline.
TheoperationswereputinperspectivebytheCaliforniaMiningBureauinReports15(1915‐
1916),pp.830‐839,and17(1920),pp.370‐373;byJ.W.Glasgow,travelingfreightagentforthe
SantaFéRailway,in“TungstenMiningAtAtolia,California,”Mining&OilBulletin(LosAngeles),
January,1916,pp,31‐32;andbytwofederalgeologists,D.M.LemmonandJ.V.N.DorrII,Tungsten
DepositsoftheAtoliaDistrict,SanBernardinoandKernCounties,California(U.S.G.S.Bulletin922‐H,
1940).ThelastpublicationcontainsexcellentmapsandtheproductionrecordoftheAtoliaMining
Company.
TwohistoriesoftheRandsburgdistrictofferafewglimpsesintolifeatAtolia:Roberta
Starry'sGoldGamble(ChinaLake,1974)andMarciaRittenhouseWynn,DesertBonanza(2nded.,
Glendale,1963).Wynn'sfatherownedanimportantminenearRandsburg.
95
THEVONTRIGGERCAMPS
INDECEMBER,1906,awriterfortheRedlandsCitrographtookheartthatatleastonemining
district,Vontrigger,had“escapedtheblightofthefakepromoter.Itsnamehasnotbeenconnected
withworsethanquestionableminingenterprises....”
Thewriterwasonlypartlyright.TheVontriggerdistrictoperatedinthetwilightbetween
honestdevelopmentandshadypromotion.
Aftersomefitfulstartsduringthe1890's,mineswerebeingdevelopedthroughoutthe
Vontriggerdistrictby1904.AboutsixmilesnorthofBlakestation(Goffs),thePentagonMining
Companyfoundeda“permanent”camp,consistingofanassayoffice,abunkhouse,anda
shafthouse.Meanwhile,todeveloptheCaliforniaMine,ninemilesnorthofBlake,intheVontrigger
Hills,AlbertH.CramorganizedtheCaliforniaGoldandCopperCompanyandbegansinkingthree
deepshaftsandinstallingmodernminemachinery.
Themine,however,wasknownlessforitsorethanforitsowner,Cram.Cramwasthemost
prominentmining‐stockpromoterinRiverside.Hewoulddevelopaclaimjustenoughtoholdthe
interestofprospectiveinvestors.Cramhad25menatworkbythesummerof1906.Strikesbeing
madeelsewhereinthedistrict,accordingtoareportinlate1906,provedthatVontriggerwas
“amongthemostpromisingnewcopperfieldsoftheSouthwest.”
Theminesitewasdevelopedintoalargecampin1907.Crambuiltalargebarn,store
carryinganamplestockofgeneralmerchandise,areservoir,andanine‐milepipelinelaidto
HackberrySprings;waterbeganflowingonJuly4.About40menwereemployed.Then,in
October,Crambeganinstallingaleachingplant.Theoperationturnedout5,400poundsofcopper
thatyear.
Ashippingpoint,meanwhile,wasestablishedontheCaliforniaEasternRailway,lessthantwo
milesaway.VontriggerpostofficewasestablishedthereinMay,1907.Bytheendof1908,the
stationcomprisedawatertank,loadingplatform,siding,andacombinationstore‐postoffice‐
restaurant.Amonumentmadeofcopperoregreetednewcomers.
Developmentatthemineprobablyslowedthen,perhapstogiveCrammoretimetosellstock.
Heresumedhispromotionalcampaigninearly1909.InJune,thecampcontained20buildings,
includingthestore,aboardinghouse,aroominghouse‐hotel,andcabins.
Would‐beinvestorscouldgazeuponamagnificentoperationattheendof1909.Themain
shafthadreached317feet,17,000gallonsofwateradaywereflowingthroughthepipeline,and
Cramwastoutinganewlydeveloped“electrochemical”systemthatextractedgoldandcopper
fromthearea.A96x100‐footbuildinghousedawell‐equippedleachingplant.
Neveronetoquit,Cramkickedoffafinalpromotionalcampaignin1911.Theelectrochemical
plantwasleachingoutcopperore“onacommercialscale,”andafullyequippedrollermill,with
cyanidetanks,startedupaboutJune.Everonthemove,CramseveraltimesvisitedGoldfield,
96
Nevadatobuyequipment,evenshowingoffan18‐inchslabofcopperproducedathisproperty.In
fact,hisoperationproduced4,000poundsofcopperthatyear.
Cram'sactivitiesprobablylessenedafter1911.AtVontriggerstation,thepostofficeclosedin
October,1913.Allthatremainedin1917wasasiding.
AnotherVontriggergrewupatthenewlydiscoveredGetchellMine,afewmilestothewest,in
theHackberryMountains.ByMay.1925,thecampcomprisedastore,restaurant,cold‐drink
resort,and30tents,withothersrising“everyotherday.”A30‐roomhotelwasreportedlyunder
construction.WorkattheGetchellprobablyhaltedaboutthen,althoughthemineexperienced
revivalsformanyyears.
SOURCES:LarryVredenburgh,inDesertFever,sortsoutthevariousoperations.D.F.Hewettlisted
theoutputoftheCaliforniaGold&CopperCompany'smineinhisworkontheIvanpah
Quadrangle(alreadycited).Themanyminesinthedistrict,includingCram's,werecoveredinthe
RedlandsCitrograph,1906‐1908,andintheLosAngelesMiningReview,1906‐1911.,
97
THECIMADISTRICT
StandardCamp,Toeglcity,CampDawson
EvenfairlysmallminesintheregionaroundCimacouldsupportsubstantialcamps.
MeadesvilleandCampPekingareonlymemories,butseveralsmallsettlementsachievedsome
prominence.
TheStandardNo.1Mine,about11milesnorthofCima,onStripedMountain,fortunately
producedoreofhonestinvestorsratherthanthehotairofpromoters.Inthesummerof1905,the
StandardMinesCompanyofLosAngelesrevivedtheoldExcelsiorMine,begansinkingadeep
shaft,installedmodernequipment,anderectedastoreandotherbuildings.Thecompanyshipped
itsfirstoreinearly1906.ThoughasuitbystockholdersforcedtheStandardtocurtailoperations
inlate1906,thepropertystillmanagedtoproduceaphenomenal455,000poundsofcopperand
9,360ouncesofsilverbytheendoftheyear.Whenfulloperationsresumedinthesummerof
1907,theshafthadreached340feet.ByMay,1908.,thecampincludedabunkhouseand
boardinghouselargeenoughtotakecareof100men,asmallstore,andanassayoffice.But
productionsoondeclined.Themineshutdownin1910.AlimitedrevivaltookplaceduringWorld
WarI.
Toeglcity,atinycamp,sprangupafterCharlesToeglbeganreworkinganoldgroupofsilver
claimsafewmilesnorthofCimainmid‐1905.HenamedhisclaimstheTeutoniagroup.Toegland
aPennsylvaniainvestororganizedacompany,whichboughtotherproperties,builtwagonroads,
andputupthecampattheTeutonia.InOctober,1907,thesettlementincludedageneralstoreand
ablacksmithshop,whichalsoservednearbycamps.Homes“ofabetterclass”wereplannedfor
companyofficials.Allthisdevelopmentwaswellfounded:theTeutoniaproduced112tonsofore
carrying100to150ouncesofsilveraton.
ThetwinDeathValleyandArcalvadamines,threemileseastofCima,intheMidHills,stood
outasalegitimateminingoperationinaneraofspeculation.
Richsilver‐lead‐goldorewasfoundthereinmid‐1906;asettlementnamedCampDawson
emergedbySeptember,whentheDeathValleyMineshippeditsfirstore.Theworkforceinthe
districtstabilizedby1907:45inMarch,52ormoreinNovember.InJune,framestructuresbegan
replacingthetentsthatmadeupthecamp'shomes;theArcalvadaMinehadashafthouse,engine
house,and41‐roombunkhouse;andtheDeathValleyMineownedan“artisticallyfinished,”seven‐
roomresidence‐‐toutedastheonlycompletelyfurnishedbungalowonthedesert‐‐whichwasused
byvisitorsandthesuperintendentsandmanagersoftheDeathValleyandArcalvadamines.(The
firmsmergedinSeptember.)Thenewlyformedcompanyproducedarecord74,600ouncesof
silverin1907.TheoutputoftheDeathValleyMinedeclinedafterlitigation‐‐andperhapsthe
prevailingdepression‐‐curtailedworkinmid‐1908.
Theoutputneverreturnedtotheearlierlevels,thoughthemineoperatedonandofffor
decades.TheDeathValley,forexample,employed40minersand20teamsin1912.Theplantand
anewmillburnedin1927.Yetaslateas1930,thecampcouldfeedandhouse100menand
containedasix‐roomhouseandaconcentratingplant.Thebunkhousewastorndownafewyears
laterandthelumberusedtobuildaVeteransofForeignWarshallatClarkMountainstation.
98
SOURCES:TheLosAngeles(American)MiningReviewreportedontheminingoperationsand
theircamps,1905‐1912.InhisworkontheIvanpahQuadrangle(citedearlier),D.F.Hewett
profiledtheleadingminesandgavetheirrecordsofproduction.InDesertFever,Larry
Vredenburghdescribeseachoperation.
99
THECRACKERJACKDISTRICT
Crackerjack,Avawatz,andCopperCity(II)
OneofthemoremysteriousregionsoftheMojaveDesertistheAvawatzrange,a6,500‐foot
seriesofmountainsbisectedbyoneoftheearliestroadsfromBarstowtoDeathValley.Johnny
Moss,themountain‐mandiscovererofrichoredepositsintheWest,reportedlyfoundsilverinthe
AvawatzMountainsabout1870.ThoughtheSanBernardinoArgussaidthatMoss'sstrikeswere
“yieldingtherichestoresonthecoast,”intruthonlyatrickleoforecameoutofthedistrictfor
decades.
TheAvawatzdistrictdidn'tamounttomuchuntil1906.Discoveriesofgoldmadeearlierin
theyearbroughtarushofminersfromthecampsofsouthernNevadainthefall.Theyorganized
theCrackerjackMiningDistrict,30X30miles.AfterFrancisMarion(Borax)Smithorderedhis
Tonopah&TidewaterRailroadtobuildadepotatSilverLake,25milestotheeast,autostages
beganrunningtoCrackerjack,FivePoint,andAmosBrotherscamps.AstheLasVegasAgewould
cometopredict,“theTonopah&TidewaterhassoimprovedthesituationthattheCrackerjack
countryisenteringonaneweraofdevelopment.”
TheCrackerjackdistrictsooncametosupportthreetent‐and‐shackcamps:Crackerjack,
Avawatz,andCopperCity.Builtatanelevationofabout4,000feet,thesettlementsclustered
withinamileortwoofoneanotherjustsouthofAvawatzPassandCaveSprings.
Crackerjack,theoriginalcamp,waspromotedalmostasafantasyland.Flamboyantadsinthe
LosAngelesdailiesoffered“choicelotsforsale”inadistrict“destinedtobetherichestcampof
old.”ApostofficewasestablishedinFebruary,1907;aweeklynewspaper,theCrackerjackNews,
beganpublicationafewmonthslater.‐
Butnewcomerswereboundtobedisappointed.Thoughminersreceivedagoodwage,$4a
day,andthoughChinesewerekeptout,thecampremainedlittlemorethanaclusteroftents.Only
twomineswereactive,andthoseemployedfewmen.Eventheboostersadmittedtheneedfora
well,forwaterhadtobehauledinsevenmiles.WhentwotoughsseizedDrinkwaterSpringsand
demanded$1abarrel,membersofawell‐armedgangfromCrackerjackappearedand,with
threatsofviolence,filledtheirbarrelsandleft.Theweatherwasespeciallyharsh.Fivefeetofsnow
reportedlyfellatCrackerjack,presumablyduringthewinterof1906‐1907.Theminersspenta
wretchedseason,eitherinminetunnelsorleaving.
RivalingCrackerjackwasAvawatz.PromoterH.E.Needhamplattedthecampfourmilesfrom
CaveSpringsinMay,1907.Itoffered“suitable”hotelaccommodationsandreceivedasemiweekly
freightservicefromSilverLake.TheTurnergeneralstore,whichhousedtheCrackerjackpost
office,wasmovedtoAvawatzinOctober,1907,for“outfitsarecomingintothisplacedaily,from
whichpointtheywillconvenientlyprospectthroughoutthesurroundingterritory....”Supplies
andmailwerearrivingregularlyfromSilverLake.TheCrackerjackpostofficewasfinally
discontinuedinAugust,1908,anditsnamedchangedtoAvawatz.
AmileandahalffromAvawatzstoodCopperCity,nottobeconfusedwithacampofthesame
namenorthwestofBarstow.ThisCopperCitywasthechildofpromoterC.H.Southworth,who
100
laidouta“promisingyoungtown”aboutFebruary,1907,andadvertised:“Ifyouhavefailedto
makegoodinTonopah,GoldfieldandBullfrog[Nevada],tryabrandnewdistrict.”
Southworthboasted:“TheCrackerjackdistricthasrichercoppershowingsthanGreenwater
[aDeathValleyboom]andwedonothesitatetotellyouthatCopperCitywillbeonthemapfor
yearstocome.Itcannothelpbutgrowwhengreatledgesofcopperareexposed....”Surrounding
thetownsiteweregoodcopper,lead,andgoldveins.Oneshaftwentdown80feet.EvenF.M.
(Shady)Myrick,anotedgemprospector,hadclaimsatCopperCity(whichhesold).A
correspondentreportedthatall“prospectorsarehardatworkandarefullofenthusiasm.”
Despitetheneedforadeepwell,CopperCitydidshowsomegrowth.InMarch,1907,the
townsitecontainedagoodlodginghouseandanup‐to‐datesaloonserving100residents‐‐orsoit
wasclaimed.Ageneralstoreandrestaurantwereduetoopensoon.
Ifthedistricthadaleadingmine,itwastheCrackerjack‐Bonanza,12milessouthwestof
SilverLakeandabout20milessoutheastofCrackerjack.Actually,theminelayjustoutsidethe
districtproper,inRedPass,alongtheoldMormontrail.Theowners,acompanycomposedof
energeticbusinessmenfromLosAngeles,sankadouble‐compartmentshaft175feetanddrove
tunnelsintorich,easyto‐millore.Thesettlementthere,calledBonanzaCamp,includedawell,
boardinghouse,andotherbuildings,andlateramill.AnautostageconnectedBonanzaandother
campswithSilverLake.
EighteenmileswestofCrackerjacklaytheDesertKingMine,asecondaryproducer.Littleis
knownofthismine.Afive‐stampmillhadapparentlybeenbuiltasearlyas1903.(Majorwork
probablydidnottakeplaceuntil1911,whenthedistrictwasindecline.Afewyearslater,the
campincludedacabin,blacksmithshop,andtwo‐stampmillnearDesertKingSpring.)
Themineswerenotedfortheirerraticoutput.TheCrackerjack‐Bonanzawasproducingrich
oreata“steadilyincreasingrate”inJune,1907.Thepropertysoonmadeitsfirstshipment‐‐three
carloadsoforeaveraging$100aton‐‐followedbyseveralshipmentslaterintheyear.Closertothe
camps,theAvawatzCrown,whichhada2oo‐footshaft,madeasmallshipmentinMay,1909;
meanwhile,25menworkedattheBlueBucket.Butthatwasaboutalltheactivity.
Itwassurprisingthatthedistrictsurvivedmorethanayear.Anationwidedepressionthat
beganinlate1907driedupfundsforinvestmentwellinto1909.TheCrackerjackNewswas
movedtoSilverLakeearlyin1908andwasre‐establishedastheMiner.Themajormining
journalsrarelymentionedthedistrict.
Exceptforoccasionalrichpockets,apparentlymostoftheorewastoopoortosustaina
district.TheconstructionoftheT&T‐‐andthelowerfreightrates‐wasconsideredaboontothe
mines.ThoughtheT&Tsurveyeda12‐milebranchtoanirondepositwestofSilverLakein1908,
trackswereneverlaid.Nomineinthedistrictpropereverputupamill.Avawatzpostoffice
closedinDecember,1910.Thedistrictreportedminoractivitythrough1911,thenfadedaway.
SOURCES:OccasionalarticlesandadvertisementsappearedintheMining&ScientificPress,Los
AngelesMiningReview,LasVegasAge,NeedlesEye,andRhyoliteHerald,1906‐1909.An
interesting,thoughsomewhatgeneral,reminiscencebyrancherDixVanDykehasbeenreprinted
inPatriciaKeeling,ed.,OnceUponaDesert(citedearlier).DesertFever,byLarryVredenburghand
others,offersagoodoverview.L.BurrBeldenattributedthedeclinetothe1907depression:
101
“TownBornOnlyAFewMonthsPriortoPanicof1907,”SanBernardinoSun‐Telegram,Jan.24,
1960,p,B‐8.
102
SILVERLAKE
“...ThetownofSilverLakewasmirroredinbluewaterasshiningandasheavenlyasthe
visionwhichwaslost.Thehouseshadweatheredadeeporangeandburnedinthesun.Thewhite
tanksetuponstiltsabovethewellwasdazzlingtolookat.Treesgrewbesidetheglisteningdream‐
water.Itwasbrighterthanan‐ytownorlakecouldpossiblybe;itwasmagical.”
SowrotetheEasternauthorEdnaBrushPerkins.OnatourthroughthedesertsofCalifornia
about1920,sheconsideredSilverLaketheessenceoftheMojaveDesert.SilverLakewas
slumberingthen,butonlyadecadeearlier,ithadthrobbedwithlife.
TheconstructionoftheTonopah&TidewaterRailroad‐‐theT&T‐‐northfromLudlowgave
risetothetown.TherailroadprojectspurredworkattheRiggssilver,totheeast,andreawakened
interestintheAvawatzMountains,tothewest.
ThefirstsignsofasettlementappearedwhenT.T.BrownandOscarHibbardopenedastore
18milessouthoftheend‐of‐track,apparentlyattheedgeoftheshimmeringclaybedofSilver
Lake,inOctober,1906.TheLasVegasAgesawthe“prospectofaverylivelycampbeingstarted
there....”Withminingexcitementsmakingnewswithfeverishfrequency,asmalltownbeganto
emergeafewmonthslater.FrancisMarion(Borax)Smith,thefounderoftheT&T,orderedthe
constructionofadepot,andstagecoachesbeganrunningtotheminingcampsintheAvawatz
range,notablytothenewcampofCrackerjack,25mileswest.Charging$15,theCrackerjackAuto
TransitCompanyalsobeganmakingdailyrunstoSilverLakeinearl‐y1907.
ApostofficewasestablishedinMarch,1907.Saidtobe“inprogressofbuilding,”SilverLake
embraceda“creditabledepot”withoutsidetelephoneandtelegraphconnections,tworestaurants,
bothrunboyboomersfromNevada,astoreortwo,andaliver‐ystable.RowanandCourtwright,
whooperatedthestableandcorral,providedfreewaterto“manandbeast”andranastagethat
couldreachCrackerjackinfivehours.Afewmonthslater,theSanBernardinoCount‐ysupervisors
declaredSilverLakeatown(plattedwithagrandiose63blocks),votingprecinct,andcourt
township.BecomingacourttownshipentitledSilverLaketoajusticeofthepeaceandconstable
andperhapsadeputysheriff.
Duringtheboom‐years,especially1907and1908,theRose‐Heath‐Fiskstorewascentralto
theregion'sgrowth.ThestoresuppliedtheCrackerjackdistrictwithgeneralmerchandise,
hardware,lumber,feed,andha‐y;thestoregrossed$150,000inone‐yearalone.Oneofthestore's
owners,OliverJ.Fisk,wasapioneerofseveralminingboomsintheMojave,servedasSilverLake's
firstjusticeofthepeace,andhelpedplatthetownsite.
ExcitementsatRiggs,Avawatz,Bonanza,Harper,AmosBrothers,FivePoint,and17Mile
campskeptbusinesshummingforseveral‐years.TheowneroftheCrackerjackNewsmovedto
SilverLakeinearl‐y1908andfoundedtheweeklyMiner;itapparentlylastedonlyafewmonths.
About65menwereregisteredtovoteintheSilverLakeandAvawatzareasinlate1908.TheT&T,
meanwhile,surveyeda12‐milebranchtoirondepositsatthefootoftheAvawatzrange.(Thespur
wasneverbuilt.)Theareaheld135personsin1910.
Abouttheonlyoutbreakofviolenceoccurredwhenasectionforemanwasstabbedtodeathin
1910whiletryingtobreakupafight.
103
Silverlakenowwentintoaslumber,awakenedonlybythenoisesofoccasionalmining.
ArrivingfromLosAngeles,GustaveBrauerandhisfamilyboughttheHeathstoreinearly1911,
thensnappeduptheJ.A.Thomasstoreafewmonthslater.
Thoughpioneermotoristsenjoyedracingoverthebedofthedrylake,itcouldoccasionally
flood.WhendownpoursfilledtheshallowbasininJanuary,1916,theT&Thadtorerouteitstrains
throughLasVegas‐‐a170‐miledetour‐andthenrebuilteightorninemilesofroadbedontheeast
sideofthelake.Composedofsimpleframebuildings,thetownwaseasilymovedtothehigher
ground.WhenanartistfromSanFranciscoboastedoftheprogressthathiscityhadmadesince
theearthquakeandfireof1906,Brauercouldonlychuckle:“Well,SilverLakeain'tsobad.We
pulledherupoutofthewateroncealready.”
Thepopulationofthevotingprecinctdwindledto35in1920,buttoPerkinsanda
companion,SilverLakestoodoutas“alittleoasisoflifeinthesolitude.”Thesunwassettingwhen
theyspiedeightor10“portablehouses,brightorangebesidethepurpledarknessofthebaked‐
mudlake....”GreetingthemweretheBrauers,“akindlyGermancouple”whoownedthestore,
soldthemgasoline,andboardedthefewtravelersboundforthemines.Alistofvotersnailedto
thedoorofthestorecontainedonlysevennames,luredbythetown'swateringtrough,burros
wanderedamongthelittlehouses.A6x2‐footpatchofgrasscarefullytendedbytheBrauersstood
outastheonlygreenthingintown.
NoteventhelonghootoftheT&T'strainsinthestillairdisturbedthetorporofthe
inhabitants.“...Inaboutfifteenminutesanungainlylineoffreight‐carswithapassenger‐coachor
twointherearcomesswayingalong.Mrs.Brauergathersupthedishesleisurely.Shehopesthey
havebroughtthemeat.Thelasttimeshehadboarderstheydidn'tbringanymeatfortwoweeks.
IftheybringitshepromisestomakeyouafineGermandinner.Shenevergoesouttolookatthe
train.Nobodydoes,exceptyou,whostandinthedoorwayandwonderatit....”
SilverLakefadedawaylikeamirage.Onlyastationagentandsectioncrewremainedin1927.
TheconstructionofthehighwayfromLosAngelestoSaltLakeCitybypassedthetowninfavorof
Baker,eightmilessouth;apavedbranchwasbuiltalongtheT&TtrackstoDeathValley.When
boraxdepositsweredevelopedinKernCounty,theminasnearDeathValley‐‐thelifebloodofthe
T&T‐‐wereabandonedin1933,andtherailroadcurtaileditsoperations.Silverlake'spostoffice
closedinFebruary,1933,andwasmovedtoBaker.Thefewbuildingslefthousedthestationagent
andsectioncrewuntiltheT&Twasabandonedin1940.
SOURCES:DavidMyrickhasabriefbutbeautifullyphotographeddescriptioninhisRailroadsof
NevadaandEasternCalifornia,II(citedearlier).OccasionalitemsappearedintheMining
&ScientificPress,LasVegasAge,SearchlightBulletin,andBarstowPrinter.EdnaBrushPerkins
eloquentlydescribedthetowninTheWhiteHeartofMojave(NewYork,1922).
104
GOLDPARKANDPINONCAMPS
Severalsmallbutwell‐developedcampsgrewupattheminessouthofTwentyninePalms
oasis.
About11milessouthofTwentyninePalmslaytheGoldParkdistrict,justinsideSan
BernardinoCounty.WhenGeorgeWhartonJames,theinveteratetraveler,rodeintothecampat
theGoldParkMineabout1906,itwastemporarilydeserted‐‐almost.Itscaretaker,knownonly
asSullivan,wasawaitingthearrivalofwagonsbringingmenandsupplies.SullivanmadeJamesa
welcomeguest:“,..Whennightcomesandourpleasantfirelightsupthesurroundinggloomhe
bringsforthfromsomehiddenrecessaviolin,fromwhichheplaysanumberofpopularpieces
withbothskillandprecision....”
TheTwentyninePalmsregionsoonbegantostir.Ofthe10minesin1907,theGoldPark
companyemployedthemost‐‐18men.Mineswerebeingbuiltup,millswerestartingup.The
minersattheoasissorelywantedastoreandapostoffice.
MostoftheminingtookplaceintheGoldParkdistrict,wheretheGoldParkandTipTop
propertiesadjoined.TheGoldParkwasfullyequippedwithmodernminingmachinery;itscamp
includedbuildingsfortheman,ablacksmithshop,andalaboratory‐assayoffice.Apostoffice
operatedfromJanuarytoJuly,1908..
Fartothesouth‐‐andalongday'sjourneyforJames‐‐stoodthecampatthePiñonMine,
whereJamesspentthenight:“...There.areafewcabinsandastampmillsituatedinacozynookin
themountains,and‐‐pleasantfact‐‐thehomesoffamilies,wherethevoicesofwomenandchildren
areheard.”
Byearly1908,millswereoperatingatthePiñon,Hexahedron("Hexie"),andLostHorse
mines.Ashortageofwater,however,hinderedoperations;onlytheLostHorsewouldleavea
recordedoutput:$350,000.
SOURCES:TheobservationsofGeorgeWhartonJamesappearinhisbookTheWondersofthe
ColoradoDesert(citedearlier).Sporadic,butdetailed,newsstoriesonminingappearedintheLos
Angeles(American)MiningReview,1907‐1908.
105
HART
Thefallof1907wasapoortimefortheminingindustry.Adepressionwas"rakingthe
nation'sbanksandsqueezinginvestors.EspeciallyhardhitwasGoldfield,Nevada,whereonebank
hadfailed,the.miningcompanieswerebroke,andtheminerswereonstrike.
ItremainedforthreeprospectorsfromGoldfield‐‐JamesHartandthebrothersBertandClark
Hitt‐‐torecognizethepossibilitiesofarhyoliteformationthatresembledthegold‐bearing
outcropsofwesternNevada.IntheruggedCastleMountains,thetriofoundpocketsofrichoreand
refiledonlapsedclaimsduringthelastweeksof1907.TheirclaimsbecametheOroBelleandBig
Chiefmines;piecesoforefromthelatter“fairlyglistenedwithgold.”
Tippedoffbythediscoverers,GeorgeA.Foster,ayoungGoldfieldbroker,snappedupagroup
ofclaimsandlaidoutatownsiteinabasinbelowtheproperties.HenamedthesiteHart.(Asiding
andfreighthouseontheBarnwell&SearchlightRailroad,aboutfourmilesnorth,wouldsoonbe
namedHitt.)Fosterlaterexplainedthattoo“muchcreditcannotbegiventheoriginaldiscoverers.
Theycertainlyhavegiventheminingworldanotherbigcampandmyselfandfriendsareindebted
tothemfortheadvanceinformationwhichletusinonthegroundfloor.”
ThenewsofthestrikeelectrifiedthedesertregionsasearlyasJanuary,190B.TheNeedles
Eyereportedthatmany“peoplehaveleftNeedlesandSearchlightinautomobiles,buggies,and
wagons,andonbicyclesandburros.”“AndoncemorethemagicnameofGoldfield!”exclaimedthe
SearchlightBulletin.“SoassociatedwithsuddenwealthandricheshasthenameGoldfieldbecome
thatitistheopensesameoftheuptodateprospector.”
Atownbegantoemergeonlyaweeklater.Halfadozententswereontheground,andmore
wererising.TwoSearchlightstoresopenedbranches.
M.L.CookandStone&Brownopenedsurveyors'offices.J.B.Flanagan,thepublisherofthe
SearchlightNews,beganissuingasmall,four‐pageweekly,theHartEnterprise.Telephone
line5"W8rebeingstrungtotheWesternUnionofficeat.Barnwell.Thoughwoodwasscarce,water
wasbeinghauledfromBarnwell;itsoldfor$8abarrel.Apetitionsoughttheestablishmentofa
postofficeandamailroutetotherailroad.
Inthemeantime,theFosterbrotherswerevigorouslypromotingthenewtownsite.They
hiredM.L.Cooktomakeasurvey,and“indicationsarethatalivelycampwillspeedily
materialize,”onepaperwrote.TownlotswereputonsaleonJanuary14.
But“blindingstormsofrain,sleetandsnow”failedtodampensalesorthespiritsofthe100
ormoremenatthesite.At$25alot,saleswerebrisk:60lotsweresoldinoneday;onepartyeven
bought20.Aweeklater,whenlotsweresellingfor$150,theEnterprisecommentedthat“the
camphaseveryindicationofpermanency.”
Visitorsbegantopourin,atfirstfromNeedles,Searchlight,andGoldfield,thenfromSan
FranciscoandDenver.MostgotofftheBarnwell&SearchlightatBurntStumpstation,wherea
stagewouldtakethemthefewmilestoHart.FromtheSaltLakerailroad(thepresentUnion
Pacific),passengerswouldarrivebyautostagefromLeastalk(laterrenamedIvanpah).Travelers
couldusuallybeaccommodatedatlodgingtentsandrestaurants.ButH.A.Perkins,thepublisherof
106
theBulletin,advisedthat“theforesightedwillendeavortopackalongapairofblankets[to]insure
comfortinstormyweather....”
OnewomanconfessedtohavingmixedfeelingsaboutHart.“Well,atfirsttheplacegaveme
thecreeps.MyfirstimpressionwhenIsawallthosewhitetentsinthedistancewasthatIwas
approachingagraveyard.NorcouldIthrowoffthisimpressionforsometime‐‐infactnotuntilthe
nextdaywhenIsaweversomuchgoldpannedandhadboughtalot.Thenthelifeandbustle
wakenedmeupandIwasdelightedwithallIsaw.IhadafinetimeandwanttogotoHarttolive.I
thinkitisgoingtobealovelycamp.”
Newcomerslikehercontinuedtoswellthepopulation.TheEnterprisereportedattheendof
Januarythatonehundred“tentsarescatteredabout,andthenumberisfastincreasing.Wheretwo
weeksagotheeyebeheldnothingbutjoshuasandcactithemountainside[teems]withlifeand
progress.”
Whilethedistrictawaitedthearrivalofitsfirstlumber(January31),tentslinedthemain
streetforhalfamile;othertentsspilledontosidestreets.Housedinthemwereanestimated400
persons,severalminingengineersandbuildingcontractors,andtwodozenbusinesses.
Atownbegantoemergefromthecocoonofacamp.Duringabreakinthebadweatherin
earlyMarch,Perkinsmadeaneasyone‐hourdrivetoHartandfoundanattractivelyplaced
settlement.“Onedrivesupthemainstreetandfindsitquitewellfilledforadistanceofthreecity
blockswithalternatingtentsandsmallframestructures.Acloserobservationwillshowsome
verysubstantialone‐storybuildings.Foratwomonths‐olditmakesaremarkableshowing.”
AmongthemoreconspicuousbusinessesliningthemainstreetweretheNorthernClub,
ownedbyGusHamstadtofNipton;theSmith,McCarthy&Bradleyhardwarestore;thegeneral
storesofC.L.Buckler,N.P.Funk,andtheBrown‐GosnevCompany:severallodginghouses;and
Mesmer'sbakery‐restaurant.Gradingwasunderwasonthe38x60‐footNortonHouse.Meanwhile,
afour‐milewaterlinefromMalapaisSpringswascompleted;watersoldfor$10abarrel.
Themineswerealsodoingwell.Ahard15‐minuteclimbbroughtPerkinstotheHartandHitt
property,theOroBelle.Hitt“extendedeverycourtesy”inshowingPerkinsa60‐foottunnelwith
veinsassayingupto$20atoningold.Upanothersteephillwasthe60‐foottunneloftheBigChief
Mine,ownedbytheFostercompany.Lyingneartheminewerefour100‐poundsacksofareworth
$2apound.
Allthatspringandsummer,Hartmaturedintoafull‐fledgedminingtown.Afterthe
introductionofdailymaildeliveries,apostofficeopenedinlateApril.ASearchlightdeveloper
broughtinaseven‐passengerThomasFlyerandbegancarryingpeople,beer,andicetoHartand
EIDoradoCanyon,Nevada.Acrewheemployedputthe20‐mileroadtoHartin“fineshapeforfast
running.”
InSearchlight,FlanaganclosedtheNewsandmoveditsplanttotheofficeoftheHart
Enterprise.Andabanquetandballmarkedtheopeningofthetown'sonlytwo‐storybuilding,the
NortonHouse:itsfurnishingswere“firstclass.”:Asecondtwo‐storyhotel,theMartinHouse,
openedinJuly.
Hart'sestimated400residentshardlyneededtoleavetheirhomes.Thebusinessdistrictthat
summerincludedthetwohotelsandaone‐storyroominghouse,twogeneralstores,abookstore,a
107
real‐estateoffice,acandystore,twolumberyards,abakery,andeightsaloons.Theutilities
embracedthewaterline,thepostoffice,telephoneandtelegraphservice,andstageandautolines
toSearchlightandHitt.
Harthaditshumanside,too.Whenthefirstchild‐wasbornin·camp,itsparentswere
promisedalovingcupmadeoflocallyminedgold.Thenearestschool,however,wasatBarnwell.
ThechildrenoftheSnorffamilywouldwalktoBarnwellonSundaynights,setuphousekeepingin
anabandonedcabin,andwalkbackhomeonFridayafternoons.Onagrimmernote,Harthada
cemeterythatwouldeventuallyhavefivegraves.
HelpingtheboomalongwastheEnterprise.Flanagan,itsfounder,wasapparentlyhard
pressedbythenationwidedepressionandbytherivalSearchlightBulletin,anewsysheetofsix
pages.WhenFlanaganclosedhisweeklyNewsinApril,anagentforthebuilding'sownersattached
theloadedplantforbackrent.ItcostFlanagan$110tofreehisequipment,andmoveittoHart.
HartcouldhavenobetterboosterthanFlanagan.AsearlyasJanuary,hewascrowingthat
“HartisdestinedtobecomeoneofthelargestproducersofgoldintheUnited'States....”When
theEnterpriseadvisedexcursioniststo“enjoythefresh,balmybreezesofthemountains.Ifthe
Bulletinscoffed:“...Unfortunately,theoldestinhabitantcannotrecallamoredisagreeableday
thanthatwhichgreetedthevisitors,andthe'fresh,balmybreezes'wereyoungtornadoesladen
withblindingdust....”
Despiteitsboosterishtone,theEnterprisetendedtoplayitsminingnewsstraight.Mining
journalsinSanFrancisco,LosAngeles,NewYork,andChicagoquotedthepaperoften.
Butallthisgrowthstrainedthefabricofaneasygoingfrontiersociety.TheBulletin
complainedinJanuary:“Six‐shootersaremuchinevidence,anditwillnotbesurprisingifleaden
messagesareexchanged.Manysharppracticesarereportedinthematterofmakinglocations
whichmayresultintrouble.”Thenextmonth,threeSearchlightmencontestedwiththeFoster
brotherstheownershipofanareanearthetownsite.Butuntilcertainmattersweresettled,the
SanBernardinoCountysupervisorsrefusedtoestablisha'courttownship,whichwouldentitle
Harttoajusticeofthepeaceandconstable.
Suchchaoscouldnotbetolerated.Hartorganizedaformofprovisionalgovernment.To
“encouragelegitimatemining,”theleadingcitizensformedaBusinessMen'sLeague,whichlimited
thesaleofliquorandenforcedpoliceandfireregulations.Hartinfactwasoneofthefewmining
campsinCaliforniatomaintainavolunteerfiredepartment.Theleagueinturnformedalaw‐and‐
ordercommittee“toassistinthemaintenanceofaquietcamp.”Wheneveragambler,tough,or
wildcatpromoterarrived,thecommitteewouldadvisehim,“inlanguagethathedoesnothesitate
toheed,”toleaveonthenextstage.
Afewwell‐developedclaimssupportedthedistrict.TheOroBelle,ownedbyHartandHitt,
hada1,000‐foottunnel,a200‐footshaft,andextensiveworkings.TheBigChief,ownedbyFoster,
hadashaftofseveralhundredfeetandthedistrict'sonlymill.InthirdplacewastheHart
Consolidated,ownedinpartbyHarryS.McCallum,thetown'sleadingspirit,whoheadedthe
BusinessMen'sLeague.Themanyleasesthesemengrantedaddedconsiderablytothedistrict's
output.Infact,onelease‐holderinlateJuneshippedthearea'sfirstore,atestrunofundisclosed
valueprocessedbyamillinSearchlight.
108
RepresentingmostmineworkerswastheHartMiners'Union,abranchoftheWestern
FederationofMiners.Theunionwasorganizedduringearly1908andbyJuly1counted44
members,apeak.Duringthemostproductiveyears,1908and1909,laborersandsurfaceworkers
generallyreceivedacomfortable$4aday,andshaftworkersreceived$4.50.Carpenterswerepaid
aprincely$6.
Millingturnedouttobethemainproblematthemines.InMay,a10‐stampmillboughtby
Hart,Hitt,andFosterarrivedfromGoldfieldandwasinstalledneartheBigChiefMine.Butthe
heavymachineryshookapart,thepoorlylaidfoundation.Despitemodifications,themilldidnot
startupagainuntilNovember.ASearchlightmillendedupprocessingmostofHart'sbestore.
ShippingfromHarttoSearchlightcost$3aton.
ThoughHart'sminesweremostactivethrough1909,theEnterprisereportedmore
developmentworkthanproduction.Thoughmanysmallerdiscoveriesweremade,theveinsatthe
BigChiefandtheOroBelleremainednarrowandbroken;theamountoftheirhigh‐gradeorewas
limited.InNovember,1909,theEnterprisesuspendedpublication.(Flanaganwasseenagainas
thepublisherofweekliesinParker,Arizona,andBlythe,California.)Andafewmonthslater,in
early1910,thecensustakencountedonly40residentsinthearea.
Then,inJanuary,1911,afirethathadstartedbehindtheMessmerbuildingdestroyedhalfthe
“littletown,”includingtheofficeoftheHartTownsiteCompany,Messmer's·storeroom,Martin's
poolroom,andtheAmesstore‐‐allabandoned.Theonlyoccupiedbuildinghitbythefirewas
MiltonMaundy'sstore,whichcontainedgeneralmerchandiseandthepostoffice.
Still,Hartwouldnotdieeasily.Amonthafterthefire,Maundyopenedarestockedstore
acrossthestreet.GeorgeFosterstillattendedtotownsitebusiness.AndtheOroBelle'smanager,
W.B.Andrews,broughtinseveralcarloadsofsupplies,lumber,anddrillingequipment.Andrews
plannedtodrillforwatertouseinaproposedmill.TheBulletinrejoicedthatprospectslooked
favorableforwhatitstillcalled“thetownofHart.”
AndrewswasmakingsteadyprogressbyNovember.Thewaterlinewasready,andAndrews
wasgettingestimatesfortheconstructionofamill.Expectedtocost$45,000,theplantwouldbe
animprovedtubemilldesignedtorecover96percentofthegoldandsilverintheOroBelle'sore.
Afterintermittentproduction,theOroBelleandBigChiefsuspendedworkin1913.The
miners'uniondisbandedayearlater.ATonopah,Nevada,firmworkedtheOroBelleforawhilein
1915;thepostofficeclosedthatDecember.TherailtoBarnwellandSearchlight,inthemeantime,
steadilycutbackservice.
AsurveyorfortheGovernmentLandOfficefoundaghostlytowninearly1919(spellingkept
intheoriginal):“ThenowdesertedtownofHartgivesevidenceofaoncethrivingandprosperous
miningtown,evidencedbynumerousbuildings,consistingofthreesaloons,withfurnitureandbar
intact,a10stampmill,hotels,restaurants,laundry,printingofficeandnumerousdwelling
structures.Theconditionofthetownbearswitnesstothefactthatitwasdesertedinahurry,
probablyattheterminationofthegoldexcitementinthisvicinity....”
SOURCES:TheboomanditsdeclinewasfullyreportedintheMining&ScientificPress,Los
AngelesMiningReview,SearchlightBulletin,andtoalesserextenttheNeedlesEye,1908‐1913.
HewettdescribedtheminesinhisreportontheIvanpahQuadrangle(alreadycited).Interviewing
109
aformerschoolboy(JohnSnorf,whodiedin1985),L.BurrBeldenwroteaconcisehistoryinthe
SanBernardinoSun‐Telegram:“Hart,GoldCampOnNevadaLine,Foldedin1918,”Sept.30,1956.
AlsoofinterestisRonaldDeanMiller,MinesoftheMojave(Glendale,1976).
110
THELANFAIRVALLEY
Lanfair,Ledge(Maruba),Dunbar
BY1910,MININGMENcouldonlywonderabouttheprospectsintheeasternMojaveDesert.
FirstIvanpahandVanderbilt,thenCopperWorldandBarnwell,finallyHart‐‐allhadfailedtolast.
TherailsoftheCaliforniaEasternRailwaywererunningthroughanemptyland.
Theironywasthatconditionsoutsidetheregionwerefavorable.Thedepressionofthe
1890'shadrunitscourse,cropandmetalpriceswererising,andtheU.S.governmentwasopening
morelandtohomesteading.
OnelikelysiteforhomesteadingwasthebrushyplateaubetweenGoffsandBarnwell,abasin
20mileslongand10to15mileswide.CattleownedbytheRockSpringsLand&CattleCompany,
thesecond‐largestspreadinCalifornia,fattenedthemselvesonthelushgrasses.Tothenorth,
smallstandsofpiñonandjunipergrewintheNewYorkMountains.Tothesouth,intheHackberry
Hills,PiuteandVontriggerSpringsabundantlysuppliedranchers,farmers,andminers.Foryears,
theSearchlightBulletinnoted,“peoplehavehadtheireyesonthisinvitinglookingsection....”And
toonelaterarrival,thevastfieldsofJoshuatrees,Spanishbayonet,bloomingcactus,mesquite,
andgreasewood(creosote)made“anever‐to‐be‐forgottenpanorama.Theairwassocleanand
crispitmadeusgladjusttobeabletobreatheit.”
OneofthosewhotookaninterestinthebasinwasErnestL.Lanfair,aSearchlightmerchant.
LanfairhadminedintheHackberryHillsin1907,whenhomesteaderswerebeginningtosettle
alongthestateline.Itwasbelievedthatwheatcouldberaisedwithaslittleasfourinchesofraina
year,and“withupto‐datemethodsthereisnoreasonwhydryranchingcannotbecarriedon
successfullyinthissection.”
ThenCongresspassedtheEnlargedHomesteadAct,whichledtoanunprecedentedrushto
fileclaimsforgovernmentland.
Sinkingadeeptestwell,Lanfaircreatedthenucleusofacolonyabout17milesnorthofGoffs
inlate1910.Lanfair'sprojectwasatfirstsaidtobe“fastassuminglargeproportions.”Butthe
Bulletinhadtocautionthatoverblownreportsofalandrushandbumpercrops“givestrangersa
wrongimpressionandsometimesworkaninjury....”Infact,only20settlerswerelivinginthe
valleybythesummerof1911.
Thecolonybegantoboomby1912.Lanfair'sranch,fullyimprovedfromthebeginning,was
yieldingabundantly.Carloadsofmachinery,lumber,andsupplieswerearrivingbyrailalmost
daily;theCaliforniaEasternreporteda“considerableincreaseofbusiness”thatsummer.Apost
office(Lanfair)wasestablishedinSeptember.Meanwhile,aschooldistrictwasorganized;its
enrollmentsoonshotuptoapeakof29.
Meanwhile,onlyonemilenorthofLanfair,twoblacks,G.W.HartsandHowardFolke,laidout
atownsite,tobenamedDunbar.Theircolonywouldexperimentwiththecultivationofcotton
and“bringfreedomtothecoloredrace,”astheBulletinexplained.Hartsbroughtinacolonyof
blacksinearly1911,thoughmanyreturnedafterafewmonths,apparentlytoLosAngeles.Ayear
later,inthesummerof1912,Dr.C.H.Duvall,“talkingfreelyandenthusiastically,”establisheda
homeandschoolforblackorphanson40acresofdonatedland.Acarloadofsupplieswasready
111
fortheconstructionofbuildings,forwhich$40,000hadbeenpledged.(Dunbarpostofficewas
establishedinOctober,1912,operatinguntilMay,1914.)
Ofmoreenduringimportancewasthefar‐flungcolonyestablishedaroundLedgesiding,five
milesnorthofLanfair.AstorewasopenedandapostofficeappliedforinJune,1912.“Almost
everytrainbringsinsomenewmembersofthecolony,”theBulletinreported.“Quitealittletent
townhassprungupattherailroad,”whereanestimated100personswereliving.Suppliesfor
farmingwerebeingunloadeddaily.
CecilBarbourwasthechiefpromoterofLedge.Hewouldgetintouchwithprospective
settlersand,forasmallfee,informthemaboutunclaimedlands.TheBarbour'sranchhouse,just
eastofthesiding,wascomposedofthreelargetentsplacedendtoend,framedwithlumber,and
fittedwithdoorsandwindows.Anoverhangingdoubleroofprovidedinsulationandspacefora
porch',TheBarboursownedLedge'sonlygoodwell;theysoldwaterfor25centsabarrel.
Duringtheseearlyyears,theCaliforniaEasternRailwayservedasthearteryofthevalley,
thoughfairautoroadsfannedouttoGoffs,Ivanpahstation(Leastalk),andCima.Toattendschool
inBarnwell,childrenwouldcatchthetraininthemorningandreturnontheafternoontrain
headingbacktoGaffs.WhennewlywedsBertandMaudSharparrivedatLedgeinFebruary,1914,
thetrainconsistedofanengine,combinationpassenger‐mail‐baggagecoach,twoorthreefreight
cars,andacaboose.Arefrigeratorcarcarryingfreshfruit,vegetables,andotherperishableswas
addedeveryMondayandFriday.ThoughLedgehadnodepot,thetrainwouldstopfor15minutes
whilesettlersflockedintopickupmail,freight,andexpresspackages.Unclaimedmailwouldbe
leftinalargelockerandthekeyhiddenfromtransients.
"Trainday”wasonlyoneofmanydown‐to‐earthsocialevents.ErnestLanfairhelda
memorableJuly4celebrationfor300or400guestsin1914.Theguestscouldhavetheirfillof
threesteersbarbecuedovernightinarock‐and‐earthlinedpit,besidesbeans,salads,trimmings,
pies,cakes,andicecream.Apianoplayedatopanewlyerectedpavilion.Harmonicas,fiddles,and
otherinstrumentsprovidedlivelymusicforeverythingfromsquaredancestowaltzes.AndnoJuly
4wascompletewithouthorseracing,sackandpotatoraces,roping,andgames.
WhentheJuliusAlexanderfamilyinvited20gueststoa“HomeProductsDinner”inPinto
Valleylaterthatyear,mostofthefood,fromthechickentothepeanutbutter,camefromtheir
ranch.
Thevalleywasahomeyplace.Nearly130menandwomenwereregisteredtovoteinlate
1916.Threeschoolswereinoperation:PleasantValleyatLedge,Lanfair,andPintoValley.The
PleasantValleySchoolenrolledupto25pupils.WhenMrs.ElanorJ,JacobyboughttheBarbour
ranch,heroldhousewasturnedintoapart‐timeclubhouse.Whilechildrensleptoncotsinthe
bedroom,theirparentswoulddanceandenjoyrefreshments.Forawhile,aminesuperintendent
evenpreachedthereonSundays.Acrossthetracks,abuildingwasputupforapostoffice;named
Maruba,itopenedinAugust,1915.Nearhisranch,ErnestLanfairranastore;ithousedthepost
officeandsoldgroceries,supplies,andgasoline.Nearbystoodtheschoolandaboxcarthatserved
asthedepot.
Severalfarmsbecamefairlyproductive.Thecolonistswoulddryfarmmilomaize,corn,and
beansduringthespringanddryfarmsmall‐graincropsduringthefall.Oneranchirrigatedgrapes
andobtainedgoodfruitfrom140trees.
112
OldMillardF.Elliott,withexperienceinAlaska,California,andMexico,turnedouttobethe
bestfarmer.Goodbarbed‐wirefencesandpoultrynettingkeptoutcattleandjackrabbits.Using
onlyone‐horseimplements,Elliottplantedalargeorchardandraisedawidevarietyoffruitsand
vegetables;hisespeciallydeliciouswatermelonsdrewbuyersfromasfarawayasNeedles.
Thoughthevalleycontainedonlythreegoodwells,thewaterprojectswereambitious.Ernest
Lanfairownedtwo550‐footwells,oneofwhichproduced50,000gallonsaday";aspringfeda
15,000‐gallonconcretereservoirthroughaneight‐milepipeline.Thedeepestwellinthevalley
operatedattheformerBarbourranch,nowownedbyMrs.ElanorJ.Jacoby.Itwentdown879feet
andproducedabout25,000gallonsaday.Mrs.Jacobychargedonly15centsabarrel.
Butominouscloudsbegantodarkenthevalley.AftertheArmisticeofNovember,1918,the
pricesofcropsandmetalsplummeted.TheSantaFe,meanwhile,cutitsservicetotwotrainsa
week,latertojustone.Cloudburstscouldgenerate50‐foot‐widetorrentsthatwouldcarryaway
Joshuatrees,railroad‐ties,andboulders;astormin1916washedawaypartoftheraillineforsix
weeks.Occasionaldeepsnowwouldhampertravelbyroad.Hail,coyotes,andrabbitswould
wreckcrops.Tramps,too,mightmenaceresidents,perhapsevenburglarizinghomes,thoughMrs.
Sharpalwaysgavethemameal.
Still,afewfamiliescontinuedtomoveintothevalley.BertSharpandElliottfinallyopeneda
smallgrocerystoreandgasolinestationintheMarubapostofficeinearly1919.Sharpbuilta
counter,shelves,andstoragerooms.WholesalersinNeedlesandColtonsuppliedthemwith
everythingfromgasolinetocornmeal.(Gasolinewaspricedatacostly42centsagallon,though
theexpenseofshippingitfromLosAngelesleftthepartnerswithonlyameagerprofit;sugar,too,
sometimesrosetoasteep26centsapound.)
ThoughtheMarubastorewouldbeopenedonlyeightorninedaysamonth,ontraindays,it
buzzedwithactivity.Homesteaderswouldcometopickuptheirmail,perhapsbuysupplies,and
tradegossip.TheSharpsandElliottwouldtakebutterandeggsfromthecolonistsandsendthem
toSearchlight.Theirhensalsolaidafewdozeneggsaweekforoutsidesale.Thestorewouldsell
someofElliott'smelons,apricots,peaches,andgrapes.Mrs.Sharpwouldcanothersurplus
peachesandsellthemfor75centsaquartandturnhisConcordgrapesintojellyandselldozensof
pintsfor75centseach.
TheSharpsthrivedonthishardylife.Forawhile,theywereabletoinduceaSantaFé
conductortoleavethemusedblocksoficefromtherefrigeratorcar.Mrs.Sharpwasabletogrow
deliciousvegetablesfordinnerinasmallgarden.Thoughacropofwheatwashitbyhail,several
turnipsshetriedoutgrewtofivepoundsapiece.EveryotherSaturday,thefamilywoulddriveto
thePintoValleySchoolanddancethenightaway,sometimesarrivinghomeatdawn,fornobody
“seemedtohaveacareintheworld.”
Butnoamountofresourcefulnesscouldstaveofffate.Ambitiousattemptsraisecattleand
converttheleavesofSpanishbayonetplantsintoropeandsoapfailed.Full‐timejobsinthevalley
werealmostunknown.TheSantaFécutitsservicetoonetrainaweek.Ontraindays,theSharps
woulddriveupfromGoffs,theirtemporaryhome,helpbringinfreightandmail,openfor
business,andreturnthatsameday.
Theplainfactwasthattherainfallwas“apparentlynowherenearsufficient,”asonegeologist
laterdeclared.Speculatorsseemedtohavetheonlymoneywithwhichtosinkwells.Assettlers
gainedtitletotheirhomesteads,theybegantotrickleaway,mostofthemtoLosAngelesandLong
113
Beach.Thougheveryoneenjoyedthefellowshipandmountainsoffoodatonefarewellparty,Mrs.
Sharprecalled,“therewasanoteofsadness,too,atthethoughtofthefamilyleavingthevalley....”
Thecoloniesdidnotdieeasily.TheLanfairschoolclosedabout1922.BusinessatMaruba
slackened;theSharpsgaveElliottthestore,itsamplestock,anditsaccountsandleftinearly1922,
asdid15otherfamilies.Onlythreefamiliesremainedin1926.Elliottfinallyclosedthestoreand
thepostofficethatMarch;theLanfairpostofficeclosedinJanuary,1927.
Theschoolreopenedbrieflyafewyearslater,andtheSharpsevenreturnedforafewmonths.But
theeraofcolonizationwasover.Sadly,oldMillardElliott,theonlysettlerabletomakealiving
fromtheland,diedafterafreakaccidentin1932.
SOURCES:TheearliestyearsweredescribedintheSearchlightBulletin,1910‐1913,andbyDavid
G.Thompson,GroundWaterinLanfairValley,California(U.S.G.S.Water‐SupplyPaper450‐8.1921)
andTheMohaveDesertRegion.California...(WSP578,1929.citedearlier).MaudMorrowSharp
vividlyrecalledherhomesteadingdaysatLedgesidinginMaruba(Norco,1984);thisisa
remarkablereminiscence.
114
BAXTER
Happily,somemineraldepositsarelarge,rich,andaccessible.SuchweretheBaxterand
BallardieQuarries,inawhitishhilloflimestonenearBaxterstation,sevenmileswestofCrucero.
(BaxterhassincebeenrenamedBasin.)Thelimestonewasusedtoornamentbuildingsandto
processsugarbeets.
A3,600‐footspurtrackwasbuiltfromBaxterabout1910.Butlittledevelopmentprobably‐
tookplaceuntil1914,whenatrackwaslaidalongthehillandapostofficeestablishedatthe
station(June).About1916,theSugarLimeRockCompany,whichleasedpartofthedeposit,
installedamodernplant,includinga110‐footsteel‐boomderrickandapumpingplant,andbuilt
bunkhousesandaboardinghouseforits60laborersandmechanics.Moretrackswerelaidin
1917.Butthequarriesprobably‐shutdownattheendofWorldWarI;Baxterpostofficeclosedin
March,1919.
Thequarriesenjoyedamajorrevivalafewyearslater.Thepostofficewasre‐establishedin
June,1923.Ironically,justwhenBaxterschooldistrictwascreatedin1926,thequarrieswereshut
down,thepostofficewasagainclosed(June),andthedistrictwasdissolved.Thequarrying
machinery‐wasdismantledthatsummerandmovedtoanewlimestone‐miningoperationsouthof
Cadizstation.Thislimestoneminebecamethesiteofthecompany‐townofChubbuck.
SOURCES:DavidMyrick'sRailroadsofNevadaandEasternCalifornia,II(citedearlier),containsa
briefsection,withphotographs,onthequarries.Theonlyimportanteyewitnessdescriptionofthe
operations,withphotosandamap,canbefoundinCaliforniaStateMiningBureau,Report15
(1915).
115
GOLDSTONE IFATFIRSTYOUDON'TSUCCEED,try,tryagain.Thiswasgoodadviceinthe'Goldstone
district,thesiteofoneofthelastgoldrushesintheMojaveDesert.Thediscoveryofgoldinearly
1910onthegentleslopeoftheGraniteMountains,30milesnorthofBarstow,sparkedaflurryof
excitementandgaverisetothecampofWideawake.Alittleworkcontinuedthrough1913.
Thedistrictrevivedinthefallof1915,whenW.B.(Bob)Redfieldandhisbrother,Benjamin,
foundaledgeofgoldassayingupto$3,000aton.Theiremployerpromptlysentwordtofriendsin
theBostoninvestmentcommunity.Fivedayslater,aBostoncapitaliststeppedoffthetrainat
Barstow,boughttheclaim,andorganizedtheGoldstoneMiningCompany.TheRedfieldbrothers
andPhilipBridgmanstruckoffontheirownandorganizedtheRed‐BridgGoldMinesCompany.
Arushbegan.NewcomerswhofloodedintoBarstowfounditimpossibletorenthousesor
furnishedrooms.“...Thehotelsarehavingtheirfullquotaofguests,andbusinessingeneralison
theincrease,”oneminingmantold'theweeklyBarstowPrinter.Oneformerskepticfoundthat
“thecampisallandmuchmorethanisclaimedforit....”
Asthewinterof1915‐1916turnedtospring,Goldstonegrewfromacampwithsixminersto
avillageof150residents.Thevillagecomprisedninetentand‐framehousesbyearlyMayand
wouldsoonoffer“suchcomfortsasadesertcampaffords,”includingMrs.DellaMiles'sGoldstone
Hotel,boardinghouses,sleepingtents,andalargegeneralstore.Mrs.Mileshadfurnishedherhotel
with25newspringbedsandcouldfeed100atherboardinghouse;boardcost$1aday.Mailand
suppliesarriveddailyfromBarstow;waterwassuppliedfromIndianSprings,ninemilesaway,for
11/2centsagallon.
Gonewerethedustydaysofthestagecoach.For$10roundtrip,atwiceweeklyautostage
madetheLosAngeles‐Goldstoneruninonlyeighthours,thoughtrainsreachedBarstowinfour
hours.FromBarstow,mostautoscouldmakethetripoverafair,33‐mileroadinlessthantwo
hours.BobRedfieldandapartnercharged$5fortheroundtrip.
Theheatofearlysummerfailedtodauntthedistrict'sguidinglights.Promotingthevillage
wastheGoldstoneTownsiteCompany,headedbyJohnA.Pirtle,aformerLosAngelesbanker.The
companylaidoutan80‐acretownsite,advertisedforsuchbusinessesasabakery,drugstore,and
barbershop,andpushedrealestate;lotssoldforasmuchas$350.InJuly,theRed‐Bridgcompany
wassinkingashaftroundtheclockandhadhigh‐gradeoresackedforshipment;theGoldstone
MiningCompanyopenedahandsome,five‐roombuildinginBarstow.
Althoughthedistrictapparentlyslumberedthroughtherestofthesummer,byOctober,
sharesoftwominingcompanieswerebeingtradedontheNewYorkCurb(American)Exchange.
Meanwhile,MalcolmN.SmithofSanBernardinoopenedthewell‐stockedGoldstoneStore,which
offeredeverythingfromgroceriestomedicines,andPirtleopenedanofficeforthetownsite
company.
Asteadystreamofpublicitywentouttoboostthedistrict.DickMansfieldputoutaweekly
miningbulletinfromhisBarstowMiningBureau.Alreadychurningoutnewsitemsandpuff
pieces,thePrinterstartedaweeklyeditioncalledtheGoldstoneMiningNewsaboutDecember;a
fewweekslater,itbeganpromotingthedistrictintheorganoftheNewYorkexchange.
116
Employingsmallforces,thetwoleadingminingcompanieswerenottheonlyfirmssparking
theboom.ThePrinterremindedbig‐cityinvestorsthatthe“littlefellowmaynotbedesirablefor
thecamp,butwenoteonething;theyhaveshoveddownshafts,havemadeGoldstonelooklikea
campwiththeirmanytentsandbuildings,havefurnishedthefirstoreforthenewmillandare
employingeverylegitimatemeansintheirpower,chieflymuscle,tomakethecamponeofthebest
inthecountry.”
Itwasn'tuntilthisperiod,late1916,thatsubstantialminingbegan.TheGoldstoneMining
Companystartedupasimplebutefficientmillthatcouldcrushupto25tonsaday.Callingit“a
grandthingforthecamp,”thePrinterurgedthe“boysinthehills”togivethemillampleore.Then
thediscoveryofabodyofglisteningoreintheGoldstone'sshaftinearly1917“prettynearly
assuresthedistrictofatleastonemine,”generalmanagerDanGreenwaltreported.
Thisprosperitywasalmosttoogoldenforitsowngood.When31guestsfilledthehotelafew
weekslater,Greenwaltpredictedthattherush“willmeangroundfloortentlifeclosetonature.”
ThoughimprovementshadshortenedtheroadtoBarstowbyfiveorsixmiles,allteamsandtrucks
weretakenup.(Orecost$6to$8forthehaultoBarstow.)Onesix‐horseteamcarrieduptoseven
tonsofgoodsfortheGoldstoneMine.Butinhistwo‐tontruck,D.Risleyhandledmuchofthe
camp'sgeneralfreightbusiness,includingatonofsuppliesforthehotel.
TheGoldstone'sstrategywastosinkitsshaftdeep,perhapsto800feet.Allduringearly1917,
trucksandteamshauledinfuel,lumber,andmachinery.An11.manforce,workingtwoshiftsa
day,jackhammeredtheshaftdownto201feetbysummer,forwhichthemenreceivedaraise,to
$4.50aday.FromSuperiorValley,12milesaway,rancherscouldeasilyseetheglowofthehuge
air‐fedgasolinelightatopthemine'sgallowsframe.
Thisandotherminingactivitysparkedabuildingboomthatspring.Houseswereplanned,
painted,andenlarged.TheMansfieldfamily,forinstance,broughtin50cratesoffurnitureand
householdgoodsfortheirrefurbishedcottageandtookoverthestoreandofficebuildingsofthe
townsitecompany.
ThoughasubscriptiondrivefailedtobringinaphonelinefromBarstow,apostofficenamed
GoldbridgeopenedinearlyJuneintheGoldstoneStore.Thenamewasanalteredcontractionof
thetitlesoftheGoldstoneandRed‐Bridgcompanies.ThePrinterfearedthatthenewnamemight
confuseinvestorsbutconceded:“....Well‐‐aGoldbridgebuiltofGoldstoneoughttoattractsome
attention,andfromthepresentoutlookthecampshouldfurnishmaterialtobuildseveralof
them.”
AsGoldstonegrew,itcametoenjoymanyofthecomfortsoftownlife.Thehotelwasnotedfor
itsfood,plentifulandwellcooked,asduringThanksgiving,1916,whenMrs.Mileshadservedan
“unsurpasseddinner”with“turkeygalore.”Afewmonthslater,theAuslinbrotherswerebringing
infreshmilkdailyfromaherdofcowsgrazinginalushfieldofryeinSuperiorValley.Andatrioof
miningmenweredevelopingacopiousspringaboutfourmilesfromcamp.
Nordidthevillagelackatasteofcityculture.ThenightengineeroftheGoldstoneandhiswife
broughtbackaVictrolaandrecordsfromLosAngelesinmid‐1917;afewweekslater,thecamp
“greatlyenjoyed”theviolinmusicofthecouple'svisitingson,William.“...Wehopehewillstayall
summer.”
117
Therecordofthelastyearissketchy.ThoughthegeneralmanageroftheGoldstonewas
pleasedwiththemine'sprogressin1918,thevalueoftheore‐$30‐‐ranwellbelowtherichesof
1916and1917.Miningapparentlyceasedthatyear.ThepostofficeclosedinAugust.
SOURCES:TheMining&ScientificPress,LosAngelesMiningReview,andBarstowPrinterreported
thediscoveryof1910andtheboomof1915‐1918.ThePrinteralsoissuedaspecialweekly
edition,theGoldstoneNews.L.BurrBeldeninterviewedapioneeroftheearliestyears:“Goldstone
HasThreePeriodsOfGoldActivity,”SanBernardinoSun‐Telegram.Oct.6,1957,p,26.
TheLosAngelesTimespublisheddetailedfeatures,withphotographs,onthesecondboom,as
didseveralminingengineers:LeroyPalmer,“NewStrikeatGoldstone,California.”Engineering&
MiningJournal.June10,1916(v.101),pp,1040‐1041;A.E.Rau,“GoldstoneDistrict.San
BernardinoCounty,California,”Mining&OilBulletin.June,1916(v.2),pp,149‐155;andthe
CaliforniaStateMiningBureau,Report15(1915‐1916),pp.804‐807,whichexpandsRau's
account.
118
KINGSTON
ITMUSTHAVETAKENANOPTIMISTtolookupontheMesquiteValleyasprimefarmland.In
this400‐square‐milebasinstraddlingtheCalifornia‐Nevadaline,theoften‐abundanttendstobe
toomineralizedforpeople,livestock,orcrops,thesoilsalsotendstobepoor,‐andthedustand
heatcomedownwithfullforce.Twoattemptstocolonizethevalley,onemadejustbeforeWorld
WarI,havefailed.
Ironically,justascroppriceswerefalling,anothermajorattempttohomesteadwasmade
duringtheearly1920's.MostofthecolonistswereCalifornians,andsomewereveterans.Because
ofthevalley'sisolation,severalvineyardswereplantedtoservethebootleggingtrade.
AnembryonicsettlementgrewupinthefarnortheastcornerofSanBernardinoCounty,
aboutamileinsideCalifornia.ApostofficenamedafterthenearbyKingstonRangewas
establishedinMay,1924.Duringthenextfewyears,Kingstoncametosupportagrocerystore,
whichhousedthepostofficeandagovernmentweatherstation,acommunityhall,anemergency
school,andtwotinycountylibrarybranches.Onebranchservedtheschool,theotherservedthe
community.
Thevalleyshranktotwofamilies'by1929.ButduringtheearlyDepressionyearscamea
trickleoftheunemployed,whotriedtodryfarm.Adozenchildrenattendedschoolabout1932,
'whenthevalley'spopulationpeakedat50to75.Avotingprecincthadalsobeencreated.Yet
Kingstonwouldremainstunted.Therainfallwasneithersteadynorabundant,rangingfroma1.4
inchesto9.5inchesayear.Kingston'slibrariesrankedwiththecountyjailandhospitalin
receivingthebestdiscardsfromthesystem;theschoolremainedattached'toanotherdistrict.
Boththeschoolandlibrariesclosedandreopenedseveraltimes.WhentheDepressionfinally
begantoebb,thepopulacebegantoleave.ThepostofficeclosedinMay,1938.Theweather
stationshutdownin1941,apparentlywiththestore.
SOURCES:TheonlyaccountsofKingstonaretobefoundinStanleyPaher'sNevadaGhostTowns
andMiningCamps(Berkeley,1970)andinL.BurrBelden's“PlatinumStrikeTouchesOffBigBut
BriefBoom,”SanBernardinoSun‐Telegram,June2,1957,p.26.Theenvironmenthasbeen
describedbyD.F.HewettinhisworkontheIvanpahQuadrangle(alreadycited)andbyGeraldA.
WaringinGroundWaterinPahrump,Mesquite,andIvanpahValleys,NevadaandCalifornia(U.S.G.S.
Water‐SupplyPaper450‐C,1920).
119
KRAMERHILLS EVENTHOUGHMININGturnedmorecorporateduringtheearly20thcentury,theexcitement
andhopethatprospectingofferedindividualspersisted.
TheKramerHills,southeastofthepresenttownofBoron,wasthesiteofoneofthelastold‐
fashionedrushesinCalifornia.Inthesehills,aboutfourmilessouthofJimGreysiding,between
MojaveandBarstow,theHerkelrathbrothers,EdandJohn,foundpocketsofrichgoldoreinearly
1926.Thestrikesweremadenearthescenesofshort‐livedrushesabout1885and1900.
WhenwordofthestrikeleakedoutaboutMarch,thousandsrushedintothedistrict,staking
outclaimsalloverthehillsandfillingupBarstow'shotels.“Theminingmensaythatnotinthelast
quarterofacenturyhastherebeensuchagoldrush...,”theBarstowPrinterreportedinlate
April.Samplesoforeassayedupto$10,000atoningold.Whilediggingaholeforanouthouse,for
instance,oneearlyarrivalfoundorethatpanned75centsto$10.Tooneveteranprospector,the
discoverylooked“likeasteamshovelproposition.”AWhittierservice‐stationownercalledthe
rush“thekickofalifetime.Kramerisbackinthedaysof'49,andtheexcitementin[the]air
quicklygetsintoyourblood.Thetripisworthanyone’swhilejusttoseewhat'sgoingonthere.”
Othershadsimilarideas.Happily,gooddirtroadsledintothedistrict.Uponarrival,however,
newcomershadtobepreparedtoroughit,thoughitwasdeniedthatbusinesseswere“holdingup
thepublicforthenecessitiesoflife.”
Asimplecampwasthrowntogether.Housedinshacksandtent‐houseswereseveral
restaurants,anassayoffice,aninformationbureau,manyofficesofminingengineers,ahotel,and
makeshiftstores,refreshmentstands,andproducestalls.Anemergencyschoolandbranchofthe
SanBernardinoCountylibrarywereestablishedthatveal'.
Thefirstburstofexcitementsoondieddown.Evenfromthestart,thePrinterwondered,
“howlongtheserichvaluesholdoutremainstobeseen....”Infact,mostofthedepositsturned
outtobelow‐gradeare.SomanymineoperatorshadfledthatinMay,1927,theMinersand
ProspectorsOrganizationhadtopassaresolutionremindingabsenteeownerstoperformtheir
annualassessmentwork.TheHerkelrathpropertyhadonitsdumpthen4,000tonsoforewortha
modest$5to$15aton;ontheAmesproperty,a200‐footshaftledtooreaveraging$8aton.
ThoughtheschoolwasstillactiveenoughthatMaytoenjoy“playday”atnearbyAdelanto,it
andthebranchlibrarywereprobablyclosedlaterthatveal'.Amillwasbuiltandacostlywellwas
boredinearly1931,butthelackofwaterforcedtheoperationtoshutdownafterseveralmonths.
SOURCES:TheBarstowPrintersporadicallycoveredtheboomanddecline,1926‐1931.Desert
Fever,byVredenburghandothers,offersanoverview.
120
CHUBBUCK
CHARLESINGLESCHUBBUCKhadn'tintendedtogetintomining.AftermovingfromCanada
intheearly1900's,Chubbuckbuiltupabuilding‐materialsbusinessintheSanFranciscoarea;the
earthquakein1906gavehisbusinessabigboost.Togetacheapsourceoflime,Chubbckalso
beganprocessingtheslurrycreatedasaby‐productinacetylenegeneratinginUnionCarbide
CorporationplantsonthePacificCoast.(Acetyleneisagasusedinweldingandlighting.)But
flecksofcalciumcarbide,thebasisofthegas,gavethelimeabluishtint.
Chubbuckneededawhiteningagent‐‐almostpurelime‐‐toaddtotheoffcolorby‐product.In
theearly1920's,twoBarstowminingoperatorsbeganopeninguparidgeoflimestonesoutheast
ofCadizstation,intheKilbeckHills.
Therecordisnotclear,butChubbuckapparentlyboughttheproperty,builtashortspurfrom
theSantaFéline,andthenputupacampandmill;themachineryhadcomefromtheBaxter
quarriesin1926.Chubbuck'smillproducedrawlimestoneasfoundryrock,processedlimestone
asawhiteningagent,andpebblelimeaschickengrits.
Majoroperationsapparentlydidnotgetunderwayuntilabout1930.Bythen,Chubbuck,as
thecampwascalled,wasasimplesettlementof30to40buildings,includinghousesforthe
workersandtheirfamilies,acompanystore,severalmills,andapowderstorehouse.Afewtrees
brokethebleakness.With17childrenattending,anemergencyschoolwasestablishedabout1932
inacanyonwestofcamp.Theteachers,books,andfurnishingshadcomefromtherecentlyclosed
schoolintheghostcolonyofLanfair.
Thecampdidenjoyafewamenities.Dieselenginesandgeneratorsprovidedpower,but
waterhadtocomeintankcarsfromtherailroadswellsatCadiz,17milesnorth.Perhapsnot
surprisingly,salesofthepopularEastsideBeerequaledthecombinedsalesoftheothergoodssold
inthestore.ArailroadlineandagravelroadlinkedChubbucktoCadiz,thoughvisitorswould
sometimeslandplanesontheroad.
SocietyatChubbuckwashighlystratified,typicalofcampsthen.Mostoftheworkerswere
Mexicans,whoreceived25to30centsanhour.AbouttheonlyAmericanwasthesuperintendent,
whosehouseoverlookedthecamp.Despitehisposition,thesuperintendenthadserveasajack‐of‐
all‐trades:therewasnotimetobringinarepairman.
TheheydayofChubbuckcamewiththeconstructionoftheMetropolitanWaterDistrict's
aqueducttotheColoradoRiver.Borrowing$100,000fromtheReconstructionFinance
Corporation,theChubbuckLimeCompanybeganturningoutawhite,heat‐reflectingcoatingin
1937tolinethechannelsofthewaterway.Apostoffice,housedinthestore,wasestablishedin
May,1938.CharlesChubbucklatermarketedthecoatingforuseondesertroofs.Meanwhile,
attendanceattheschoolrosesteadily,toapeakof40in1940.Threeyearslater,24menworked
inthemineandmill,wherea50‐foot‐Iongrotarykilnroastedlimeat2,000degreesF.Theplant
couldcrushandscreen60tonsoflimeandlimestonedaily.
Butevenin1943,thecamp'sbestdayswereover.Theschoolwaslosingpupils.Afterthewar,
aVirginiacompanydevelopedaslickplasterlimethatprovedeasiertoworkwiththanthe
productsmadebyChubbuckandotherconcerns.AndwhentheUnionCarbidecompanystopped
producingacetyleneintheWest,Chubbucklostavitalsourceoflime.Thecompanystopped
121
payingbackitsloantotheReconstructionFinanceCorporation.Productionbecameintermittent.
In1948;twoyearslater,thecompanystore,schoolandpostoffice(August)wereclosed.During
itsquarter‐centuryofoperation,Chubbuckhadproduced500,000tonsoflimestone.
Repossessingthesite,theReconstructionFinanceCorporationin1951soldthepropertyand
equipmenttoasubsidiaryoftheHarmsBrothersConstructionCompanyofSacramento.Butthe
presenceofsilicainthelimemadefurtherminingimpractical.HarmsBrothersauctionedoffthe
property,includingthekilnsforscrap,about1954,thoughmostbuildingsremainedatthesitefor
atleastanotheryear.Whilerelayingitstracks,theSantaFéremovedthesidinginthemid‐1970's.
Afewyearslater,allthatremainedwerealargeconcretefoundationandasmallhexagonal
explosivesstorehouse.
SOURCES:Thewrittenrecordisscanty.Mostoftheinformationforthischaptercomesfrom
notesofaninterviewbetweenLarryVredenburgh,anauthorofDesertFever,andDixonChubbuck,
thesonofthetown'sfounder.TheoperationsweredescribedinCaliforniaDivisionofMines,
Report39(1943)..
122
CAMPSINBRIEF
CaveSprings,inthecentralAvawatzMountains,wasanimportantstopforboraxwagons
travelingfromDeathValleybetween1882and1887.FrancisMarion(Borax)Smithbuiltastone
corralattilesprings.Oneearlyentrepreneurputupastonehutandbrieflysoldwaterfor25cents
amanorbeast.ItwasabandonedwhenthejournalistJohnSpearspassedthroughtheareain
1891.WaterfromthespringswashauledtocampsintheCrackerjackdistrictfrom1906toabout
1909.AdrianEgbert,aveteranprospectorsettledtherein1925,putupseveralbuildings,
includingaprimitiveservicestation,andlaidoutastringofemergencywaterstations.Egbert's
workattractedtheattentionofjournalismErniePyleduringthe1930's.TheUnitedStates
governmentevictedEgbertin1941tosetupCamp(Fort)Irwin.
HarpersSouthCamp,atSheepSpring,wasthemillsiteforthenearbyA‐.C.MorrisMine,of
whichJohnHarperwasthesuperintendent.Thecamp,northofironminessoutheastofSilver
Lake,in1909consistedofaboardinghouse,assayoffice,andstable.Theboardinghousestillstood
in1983.
FrankDenningfirstfoundgoldin1884nearwhatwouldbecomeDenningSpring,northwest
ofAvawatzPass.Buthisclaimsneverpaidwell.Thengoldandsilverdepositswereuncoveredin
theearly1900's.Upto60minersandprospectorsinApril,1905,wereworkingnearthespring,
whereacampwastakingshape;meanwhile,anautolinefromChinaRanch,nearTecopa,was
underdiscussion.In1907,fivemenstakedoutamillsiteandtownsiteattheWhiteSwanproperty.
DuringWorldWarI,GeorgeRoseandhiswifeandchildrensettledinthearea.Scrounging
materialthroughoutthedesert,Roseerectedamillandmaintainedamineandsmallcamp.
Arrastra(Arrastre)Spring,inthenortheastendoftheAvawatzMountains,wasahideout
forsmall‐timecriminalsduringpartofitshistory.Thearrastrawasbuiltbyhigh‐gradersabout
1894toprocessstolenorefromtheKeystoneMine,intheYellowPine(Goodsprings)districtof
westernNevada.AsmallcampwasestablishedatthespringduringtheCrackerjackrush.This
waveofminersdiscovered.theabandonedarrastraandacrumblingadobe.Andduring
Prohibition,bootleggersproducedliquorinatunnel.Aquarrelbetweentwoofthemoonshiners
leftoneofthem(NickGegg)dead.
InthenorthwesternSodaMountains,thecampandminingdistrictofFivePoints,namedfor
aridge,wasestablishednearrichcopper‐silverdepositsin1885.TheAmosbrothersrediscovered
thedepositintheearly1900'sandbuilttheAmosBrothersCamp.Itandothernearbycamps
wereservedbyastagelinefromSilverLake.ThecampwasalsonamedDayBreak,afterthe
BreakofDayMine.TheAmosbrotherssoldtheirminein1910toacompanythatopenedupthe
propertyandeventookoutsomeare.Inthelate1970's,amajorminingcompanydrilledseveral
holesinsearchofasuspectedporphyrycopper‐molybdenumdeposit.
SoloCamp,onJoeDandyHill,inthesouth‐centralSodaMountains,wasestablishednear
silver‐leadmineswestofthepresenttownofBaker.Aminingdistrictwasorganizedinthe
mountainsin1889;thecampcontainedtherecorder'soffice.Miningcontinuedhere
intermittentlyuntilthe1950's.TheBlueBellMinehasbecomefamoustocollectorsforitsrich
diversityofminerals.
123
CopperfieldcampwasfoundedaboutfivemilesnorthofHorseSpring,intheKingston
Range,inearly1907.Althoughshallowprospectsweresunkintocopperdeposits,theprospecting
failedtouncoveranycommercialare.
MiningwasespeciallyactiveontheeastsideoftheIvanpahMountainsduringthesummerof
1907:AttheCasaGrandeMine,Dr.J.S.MeadandhissonestablishedthecampofMeadsville.
TheirmineandcampwerenamedtheKewaneebymid‐1908.Between1907andlate1909,Dr.
Meadandhiscompanyerectedamillandemployedabout50miners.Thesmallquartzveins
provedextremelyrichingold.Theminewasactiveonandoffuntilabout1912.Meanwhile,
RobertWilliamsfoundgoldsilver‐leadoreaboutonemillnorthwestoftheKewanee.Williams's
strike‐‐andtheresultingcamp‐‐werecalledtheSunnyside.Theminewasactiveonandoffuntil
1912,whenthePalmHillMiningCompanyofLosAngelestookovertheproperty,sankashaft,put
upahoistandbuildings,andplannedtoinstallamill.
ArrowCamp,locatedperhapsnearArrowSpring,servedasthecenteroftheArrowMining
District.Thedistrictwasestablishedin1878,atthesoutheasternendoftheProvidence
Mountains.In1895,onerichpocketofgoldareyielded$25,000.Limitedactivitycontinuedfor
decades.In1914,acompanywasincorporatedtoworktheHiddenHillMineandbuiltroadsanda
camp.Anotherpocketoforeyielded$13,000ingold.
Gannon'sCamp,namedafterthemineowner,wasestablishedintheArrowDistrict,atthe
ContentionMine.Amodestcampandathree‐stampmillstoodatthepropertyin1902.The
Contentionreportedlyproduced$100,000ingold.
NearGoldstoneSpring,inthesouthernProvidenceMountains,twoNeedlesmenlaidoutthe
townsiteofGoldstone(I)afterPatrickDwyerfoundrichgold‐silverare.TheGoldstoneMining
DistrictwasthencreatedoutoftheArrowdistrict.Theboom,however,soonfizzled.Inearly1902,
theProvidenceGoldandCopperCompanybuiltaroadfromGoldstoneSpringstoFenner,gradeda
sitefora20‐stampmill(neverbuilt),deepenedoldshafts,andbuiltacamp(GoldstoneII).The
campconsistedofanoffice,cookhouse,storehouse,andthreebunkhouses.Thoughneitherthe
millnoraproposedrailroadspurwasbuilt,themineremainedactivethrough1907.Now,even
theshaftshavebeenfilledin,andcattlegrazeonthesiteoftheGoldstonecamps.
CopperKingCamp(1),southofBalchsiding,onthepresentUnionPacificlinetoLasVegas,
existedasearlyas1911;governmentssurveyorsthenfoundatent‐houseandshaftattheCopper
KingMine.Inmid‐1916,whenP.H.Lietznowincorporatedacompanytoworkagroupofmines,
thecampcomprisedfourbuildings,includingalaboratory,ablacksmithshop,andseveraltent‐
houses.Limitedworkingssupposedlypenetratedanenormousmassofhigh‐gradegold‐copper
ore‐‐aclaimthatwasconsideredabsurdeventhen.
SeveralcampsclusteredaroundtheStandardMine.AsmallsettlementservedtheCopper
KingMine(II),twomilessouthoftheStandard,asearlyasmid‐1906,when25menwere
employedtosinkshafts.Byearly1908,thedeepestoffourshaftsreached700feet.Asmall
amountoforewasshippedduring1906‐1909.
Meanwhile,acampwasestablishedattheSextetteMine,nexttotheStandardMineNo.2.A
shaftwassunk,ahoistwasinstalled,andasmallamountofhighgradecopperorewasshippedin
1906,butthemineapparentlydidnotpay.Butthecampwasespeciallywellphotographedby
RichardBayleyGill,oneofitsco‐discoverers.Gill'sphotos,ofthispartoftheeasternMojave,make
uponeofthebestrecordsofaminingcamptobefound.(Gilldiedin1954,attheageof94.)
124
ArichdiscoveryofgoldfourmilessouthwestofIbex(Ibis)Sidinginlate1889resultedinthe
usualrush.ButlittleminingtookplaceuntilPeterK.KlinefelterofRiversideboughttheproperty
in1892.AftershippingoretoamillinNeedles,KlinefelterdrilledawellatIbexandbuiltasmall
millduringtheVanderbiltboom;themilllostsomuchgoldinprocessingthatminerFrank
Williamsconsideredtheoperators“mererobbers.”Klinefelter'smineapparentlyfellintoidleness
after1897.Theareaexperiencedarevivalinlate1902,whenaminingcompanybeganworkona
daminSacramentoWash.Theplanwastotapanenormousundergroundflowandpipethe
watertoNeedles.Duringtheconstructionofthedam,arichdepositofplacergoldwasdiscovered,
leadingtoarushinearly1903,andpumpswereinstalledtodrainthegravels.Butthepumps
provedinadequatetoallowmining.Thecompanydismantledtheequipmentandleft.
Arichdepositoffree‐millinggoldorewasfoundonemileeastofKlinefelterstation(near
Ibex)inMarch,1896,settingoffarush.ThetownsiteofSmyzervillewaslaidoutintheDead
Mountains,northoftheSantaFéline.Butnothingmorecameofthestrike.
TurtlevillecampservedtheTurtleDoveMine,fourmilessouthofGoffs,asearlyas1903.The
TurtleDovewasownedbytheWesternNationalMiningCompany.TheTurtleDoveandnearby
GoldFlatMinewereshippinghigh‐gradeoretotheNeedlessmelterin1907.Butneithermine
developedbeyondaprospect.
TheExchequerMiningDistrictwasorganizedeightmilesnorthofGoffsin1883,shortlyafter
thediscoveryofrichplacergolddeposits.CashierCampwasthecenterofthedistrictintheearly
1890's.Ofthethreeleadingmines,theCashierstoodout:froma150‐footshaftcameoreassaying
$25atoningoldand$75atoninsilver.Lackofwaterhinderedseriousdevelopmentuntil1902,
whenthePentagonMiningCompanyfiledon35claimsattheCashierMine,sankthreeshafts,and
builtamill.ThesettlementwascalledCampSignal;itconsistedofanassayoffice,shafthouses,
bunkhouses,andeventuallyamill.ThisactivityledtotheformationoftheSignalMiningCompany
inlate1905(arenamingoftheExchequerdistrict).In1908,theLeiserRayCompanyboughtthe
property.Meanwhile,theExchequerMineanditsmill,halfamilesoutheastoftheLeiserRay,were
especiallyactive.ThediscoveryofvanadiumattheLeiserRayandExchequerminesin1911
stimulatedanotherboom.TheLeiserRaybuiltanothermillandcarriedoutfurtherexploration
work.Buttheminedidnotpayandsoonclosed.Theminewasreactivatedin1936and1937;30
menwereemployed.Butthemilldidnotrecoverenoughmetalandwasprobablysalvagedduring
WorldWarII.
Leadvillecampwasfoundedatapromisingsilver‐lead‐copperprospectfourmilesnortheast
ofPiuteSpring,inearly1908.Thoughthepropertywasworkedonandoffuntiltheearly1950's,it
amountedtolittlemorethanaprospect.
ArichgolddiscoverybyC.H.McClureinthebarrenhills16milessouthwestofNeedlesin
early1906touchedoffastampede.BVtheendofFebruary,astheareabecameblanketedwith
claimsforaradiusof17miles,McClureCampsprangup.McClure,whohadjustboughttheGold
Dollarclaim,wassoonrewarded:his25‐footshaftyielded$1,000ingoldore.Astheyearended,
theCaliforniaHillsMiningCompanyboughttheGoldDollar,laidoutthetownsiteofGoldbend,
andlaterputupaboardinghouse,office,andotherbuildings.“...Thestreetsarefilledeveryday
withstrangers,”mostofthemprospectorsandminers,onenewspaperreported.Fifteenmen
workedattheGoldDollarinlate1908,sinkingtheshafttoaneventualdepthof250feet,through
oreworthupto$150aton.Eventhoughthepropertywasheavilypromotedin1909,asuccessor
125
companyfailedtogetadequatefinancingandleftitsplansunfinished.Itsoldouttoathird
concerninlate1912,butnodevelopmentseemstohavetakenplace.
Theprominentgold‐bearingcalcite‐quartzveinsonthenorthslopeoftheClipperMountains
werefirstfoundbyAndyWoodsin1896.Severalyearslater,'hebegansinkingashaftthat
eventuallyreached100feet.TragicallyWoodswasfounddeadatthebottomoftheshaftin1915.
TheGoldReefMiningCompanysoonboughttheholdingsofWoods,andtheClipperMountain
GoldMiningCompanyandtheTomReedMiningCompanystakedclaimsandbeganoperations.
TheLosAngelesTimesinMarch,1916,reportedthebirthofthe“town”ofGoldReef,withseveral
buildingsunderconstructionandalumberyardestablished,followedbytheconstructionofa
storenearlyayearlater.
Encouragedbypromisingoutcropsthatyieldedaboutone‐thirdofanounceofgoldaton,the
threecompaniesannouncedambitiousplansfordevelopment.TheGoldReefcompanyintended
tosinktwo1,000‐deepshafts;theotherconcernseachplannedtosink500‐footshafts.TheTom
Reedinearly1917wasemployingthreeshiftsofmen,theClipperMountaintwoshifts.
Butat140feet,waterwasstruckintheClipperMountainshaft.At300feet,thewaterbecame
unmanageable;thefloweventuallyforcedworktohaltatallthreeproperties.TheGoldReef
companysoonboughtoutitstworivals.RenamedtheGoldReefConsolidated,thecompany
installedlargepumps.Newsreports,however,suddenlyendednearthecloseofWorldWarI.
126
INDEX
AmosBrothersCamp,122
Arrastra(Arrastre)Spring,122
ArrowCamp,123
Atolia,90–94
Avawatz,99
Bagdad,62–64
Baxter,114
Borate(Marion),76–77
Calico,30–55
CampDawson,97
CampSignal,124
CashierCamp,124
CaveSprings,122
Chubbuck,99–101
CimaDistrict,97–98
ColumbiaMine,85
Coolgardie,87
CopperCity,86,99
CopperKingCamp,123
CopperKingMine(II),123
CopperWorldMine,27
Copperfieldcamp,123
Crackerjack,99–101
Dale,79–84
DayBreak,122
DenningSpring,,122
Dunbar,110
FishPondsStation,32
FivePoints,122
Gannon'sCamp,123
GoldPark,104
GoldReef,125
Goldbend,124
Goldstone,115–17
Goldstone(I),123
HarpersSouthCamp,122
Hart,105–9
Ibex(Ibis)Siding,124
Ivanpah,19–30
Kewanee,123
Kingston,118
KramerHills,119
LanfairValley,110–13
Leadvillecamp,124
Ledgesiding,111
Manvel(Barnwell),71–75
Maruba,111
127
McClureCamp,124
Meadsville,123
Mescal,59–61
Minneola,78
OrangeBlossomMine,62–64
OroGrande,31
PiñonMine,104
Providence,56–58
RestingSprings,21,22,23,26,28,30
Rosalie,27
SextetteMine,123
SilverLake,102–3
Smyzerville,124
SoloCamp,122
StandardCamp,97
Stedman(CampRochester),88–89
Sunnyside,123
Toeglcity,97
Turtleville,124
ValleyWells,27
Vanderbilt,65–71
Vontrigger,95–96
WatermanMine,31
Wideawake,115

GHOST TOWNS of the Upper Mojave Desert

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