St Lucia Jazz
Transcription
St Lucia Jazz
01 St Lucia F/C 31/3/06 11:22 am Page 1 St Lucia Simply beautiful in association with 23_Stlucia 24/7/06 12:28 pm Page 1 GIVE US YOUR BODY FOR A WEEK AND WE’LL GIVE YOU BACK YOUR MIND. THE WORLD’S FIRST WELLNESS HOLIDAY. Visit us at www.thebodyholiday.com or call 0870 389 1929. ZT REAT C OUPLES H AVE F INALLY F OUND HEIR R IGHTFUL P LACE I N T HE S UN . The World’s First Boutique Hotel For Couples Call 0870 389 1930 or visit our website www.theromanticholiday.com. THE VERY BEST OF SAINT LUCIA God did it. w h e r e h e a v e n m e e t s e a r t h. For information and reservations please call 0870 389 1931 or visit www.thejalousieplantation.com Live in abject luxury Presenting the Caribbean’s finest golf-villa resor t in simply beautiful Saint Lucia. For more information and reser vations please call us at 0870 389 1932 or visit www.theplantationoncottonbay.com 03 Pierre Message 31/3/06 11:22 am Page 3 Welcome What’s inside... Dear reader ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD We invite you to explore Simply Beautiful St Lucia throughout the pages of this supplement that we have put together with The Wisden Cricketer. We seek to provide the answers to your questions on St Lucia, and then a bit more. We want to share with you all the things that you can look forward to when you visit us – beauty, history, culture, cuisine, attractions, special activities and our warm friendly people. Of course not to be missed is cricket. St Lucia is proud of its superb modern facilities, which we are continuously improving. Stadium capacity at the Beausejour Cricket Ground will be increased to meet the demands of 2007, and recently we installed floodlights and had the historic experience of hosting our first day/night match. There is so much to see and do in St Lucia. The Pitons, in Soufriere, have been designated a World Heritage site and are not to be missed. There are rainforests, heritage tours, and all of the usual outdoor sporting activities, including water sports and golf. This year, through our Sustainable Tourism Development Programme, we will highlight the unique natural and cultural assets of various communities throughout the island. We are working on product improvements in these selected communities and many stimulating special events and activities will be on offer. So I encourage you to also partake in these unique community-based activities. We hope we can entice you to visit St Lucia – a warm St Lucia welcome awaits you. We promise to make your stay enjoyable with superb cricket, exquisite cuisine, breathtaking natural attractions, and unique community activities. 4 The Barmy Army has landed 6 All mapped out 8 Memories are made of this 14 St Lucia Jazz 17 In the jungle 18 Where to eat, where to stay It’s far from just the cricket that England fans will get to enjoy in St Lucia Find out where everything is + calendar of events With so many attractions to choose from, we give you a helping hand picking the best Time to get your dancing shoes on! The world-renowned Jazz festival previewed Whether walking or biking, exploring the island’s rainforest is a magical experience The most tempting restaurants, the best hotels and villas 20 Amateur status Cricket tours to St Lucia are rising in popularity. Nigel Abbott of Claygate CC recounts his experience + Chris Read on what England should expect at the World Cup 22 Past perspective 24 Number crunching 27 WIN a week in St Lucia The island’s history and historical attractions All of the phone numbers you’ll need for your stay + World Cup schedule The magazine The Wisden Cricketer is published monthly by Wisden Cricketer Publishing Ltd, part of The Wisden Group and is available at major newsagents. www.stlucia.org Tel: 0870 900 7697 Fax: 020 7341 7001 Email: [email protected] Editor John Stern Supplement Editor Daniel Brigham Design ’OME DESIGN Illustrations Jilly Sitford Publisher Maddy Ballantyne Business Development and Advertising Sales Manager Colin Ackehurst The Wisden Cricketer, 1.4 Charecroft Way, London, W14 0EH tel 020 7471 6900 fax 020 7471 6901 email [email protected] Subscriptions The Wisden Cricketer, Customer Interface Ltd Cary Court, Bancombe Trading Estate, Somerton, Somerset TA11 6TB Tel 0870 220 6538 email [email protected] Subscribe online at www.thewisdencricketer.com, part of www.cricinfo.com, the world’s leading cricket website. Copyright I look forward to seeing you in Simply Beautiful St Lucia. Hon. Philip J. Pierre Where to find us Cover photograph courtesy of St Lucia Tourist Board ©Wisden Cricketer Publishing Ltd. “Wisden”is a registered trademark of John Wisden & Co Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopied, recorded or otherwise, without prior permission. Minister for Commerce, Tourism, Investment and Consumer Affairs 3 04-05 Cricket Barmy 30/3/06 6:20 pm Page 4 Going cricket barmy -- No matter how England perform on the pitch, the fans are guaranteed a never-to-beforgotten experience. Whether it’s partying in the stands or joining in the carnival atmosphere on the streets of S S / O O St Lucia is gearing up for a non-stop carnival at the World Cup, but the cricket’s far from the only thing to celebrate C O Going cricket barmy O D Runs in the sun: England fans will want to see Andrew Strauss on top form in St Lucia left while West Indians won’t want to rely on just Brian Lara above S o they know what they’ve let themselves in for? This peaceful, serene island, accustomed to tourists looking for a bit of adventure or dancing in the streets, now welcomes the Barmy Army for the World Cup in March 2007. And they’re doing it with open arms. Mention cricket to anyone on the island and as soon as they realise you’re English they talk about little else. St Lucians are knowledgeable about the sport, so make sure you swat up on your history and facts and figures before arriving; having an opinion on Brian Lara is also a must. 4 04-05 Cricket Barmy 30/3/06 6:20 pm Page 5 “Fans will take away a lot more than just good cricket ” St Lucia in a nutshell Size 27 miles long, 14 miles wide Language English is official. Many St Lucians also speak French Creole Gros Islet, there will be a real sense that the Caribbean is the natural home of the World Cup. Not only that, but fans will take away a lot more than just good cricket; there is just so much more to do. You’ll take back cherished memories of some of the Caribbean’s finest restaurants, serving everything from Creole to Indian to Italian; nights out in the vibrant bars of Castries and Rodney Bay – the island’s hubbub of drinking, dancing and eating; romantic walks through St Lucia’s 19,000 acres of rainforest; stunning views from the epic twin peaks of the Pitons; relaxing stays in five-star hotels and villas nestled into valleys and hills; snorkelling at one of St Lucia’s many award-winning dive sites; sunning yourself on secluded golden beaches. You’d almost be forgiven for forgetting the cricket was on. ❁ GETTY, MATTHEW SHAW/ALMOND MORGAN BAY, ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD Sixes in the sun Sub-tropical, with temps averaging around 27-30°. Sporadic tropical showers June-November. Currency EC Dollars (£1 = EC$4.62) and US Dollars (£1 = US$1.73) accepted on island Time difference 4 hours behind GMT Getting around Cars and 4-wheelers can be hired on the island; taxis are easily available – bargaining is recommended Immunization Not necessary, although Hepatitis A, Polio and Typhoid are recommended The Beausejour Cricket Ground, venue for England’s group matches, is simply one of the most picturesque places to watch cricket in the world. By Daniel Brigham A bottle of ice-cool Piton beer in both hands, St Lucia flag draped over my head to keep out the 30° heat, my feet all danced-out and Chris Gayle hammering sixes into the crowd. This certainly isn’t Lord’s. The party stand at the Beausejour stadium exemplifies the atmosphere at the ground: carefree and all about the fun. Located close to the tourist haven of Rodney Bay, Beausejour is set against a stunning backdrop of green hillside. After staging its first international match in 2002, Beausejour has Climate rightly acquired the reputation as setting the standard for the rest of the grounds in the West Indies. Currently holding 12,000 fans, temporary seating will be brought in for the World Cup, increasing the capacity to 21,000. The outfield is as lush as the surrounding countryside, and a sea breeze and plenty of shade stop the spectators from melting. If you can think of a better place to watch Freddie Flintoff and Kevin Pietersen launching a six-assault, let me know, for I have yet to find it. Credit cards Major credit cards accepted at most restaurants, hotels and major shops Departure tax EC$54 or US$22 for all passengers over 12 years for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 5 6 30 Feast of St Rose De Lima 1 Emancipation Day August 17-18 Carnival Celebrations July 15 Corpus Christie holiday 10-14 West Indies v India 5 Whit Monday June 10 West Indies v Zimbabwe ODI D/N 5-14 St Lucia Jazz Canaries Anse La Voutte Anse Cochon Roseau Bay Marigot Harbour Snorkelling at Anse Cochon Ti Kaye Village Anse Galet Anse La Raye ST LUCIA TOURSIT BOARD Discovery at Marigot Bay Anse Massacré Grande Cul de Sac Bay Barre de l’Isle Trail Barre de l’Isle Ridge Piton Flore Trail Piton Flore Fond Latisab Creole Park La Sorcière Esperance Harbour Anse Lavoutte Dennery Bay Dennery Fond d’Or Bay Anse Povert Anse Louvet Turtle watching in Grande Anse Bay Petite Anse Marquis Bay Port Dauphin Map & Calendar of Events 1 Labour Day La Toc Bay Castries George FL Charles Airport Almond Morgan Bay Labrellotte Bay Beausejour Stadium Cas-en-bas St Lucia Golf and Country Club 2:19 pm Windjammer Landing Cuti Cove Village Inn & Spa Rodney Bay Gros Islet Sandals Grande Pigeon Island 31/3/06 May Calendar of events 06-07 Map + Calendar Page 6 JAMAICA Kingston TBA Market Feast 26 Christmas Holiday 13 National Day (Festival of Lights) Choiseul Bay Ladera Resort Kingstown Castries ST LUCIA Port of Spain GRENADA St George’s GUYANA Georgetown Bridgetown BARBADOS TRINIDAD & TOBAGO St ANTIGUA Johns & BARBUDA ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES ST KITTS & NEVIS Anse de la Rivière Dorée Choiseul Basseterre Anse I’Ivrogne Grand Piton Anse des Pitons Sulphur Springs Diamond Waterfall and Botanical Gardens Mount Casteau Toraille Waterfall Mount Tabac Mount Grand Magazin Piton St Esprit Mount Cochon Laborie Mount Gimie Black Bay Hewannorra International Airport Vieux Fort Bay Vieux Fort Descartiers Trail Anse de Sables Maria Islands Wildlife Reserve (boat trips) Latille falls Mamiku Gardens Anse Ger Troumassée Bay Micoud KEY Diving Golf Course Hotel Place of Interest Airport Anse Canelle Anse L’Islet Anse Violon Anse Chapeau Anse Patience Anse Gras Fond Bay Praslin Bay 2:19 pm December TBA Atlantic Rally for Cruisers from Las Palmas Petit Piton Stonefield Estate Soufrière Anse Mamin Anse Jambon 31/3/06 12 Remembrance Day November 29 Jounen Kweyol (Creole Day) 28 International Bill Fish Tournament 17 Feast of La Marguerite 2 Thanksgiving Day October St Rose De Lima 06-07 Map + Calendar Page 7 for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 7 08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:12 pm Page 8 10 things to see and do Seven days in the sun S C O S O St Lucia: 238 square miles of rainforest, vibrant nightspots, mouthwatering cuisine and endless beaches. Where do you start when confronted by paradise? Daniel Brigham picks 10 things you must see and do before you leave. 8 08-13 10 Things To Do 1. 30/3/06 6:13 pm Page 9 Beaches Let’s face it, if the Caribbean is your chosen holiday destination, it’s quite likely you’ll be looking to spend a decent amount of time on the beach. And why not? St Lucia’s beaches are all open to the public, many are secluded and others are hives of activity, and it’s the perfect way to kick off your stay. From Marigot Bay to Pigeon Island and Cas-en-Bas to Rodney Bay, you’re never far from the chance to indulge in a spot of sunbathing, paddling or, for the more adventurous, snorkelling, diving or horse riding. ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD 2. Cuisine You won’t stay hungry in St Lucia. There’s just no excuse. Countless quality restaurants serve everything from local Creole to pizzas, burgers, steaks, French and Italian, with much of the food made from local produce. Embrace the island: try staying away from the burgers and pizzas that you can find on every corner of any British town and gorge yourself on Creole. Based on recipes using corn, cayenne pepper, tomatoes, beans, okra, sweet potatoes and squashes, most restaurants offer this traditional cuisine. Although chicken and fish are the predominant meats on the island, the pork trade is rising, with pork barbecues popping up on the sides of roads. For our top restaurant picks, see pages 18-19. 3. Island fusion: St Lucia’s two foremost attractions are its glorious beaches above and an impressive variety of quality food below served at world-class restaurants Pigeon Island It’s two in the afternoon, there are a couple of clouds dotted around but not enough to block the soothing sun, the surrounding beaches are begging to be walked along and yet I can see only two other people. Pigeon Island, just north of the town of Gros Islet, is St Lucia’s best-kept secret. Featuring an enticing blend of history, relaxation, peace, empty beaches and snorkelling, it is difficult to understand why Pigeon Island isn’t flooded with tourists. Thankfully, it remains relatively secluded – perfect for a snooze or getting through The Da Vinci Code. Barracks and forts used by the British in the 1700s to defend the island against the French are well preserved, and the beaches are free of deckchairs and throngs of sunbathers. If you and your partner are feeling for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 9 08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:13 pm Page 10 10 things to see and do spontaneous, sunset weddings at the fort are fantastically romantic. But, if the husband would rather act like a typical bloke, there’s a golf course just 10 minutes drive away ... 4. St Lucia Golf Resort and Country Club The Caribbean is almost as famous for its beautiful golf courses as its beaches, and St Lucia Golf Resort and Country Club fits perfectly into the stereotype: lush fairways, perfect weather, stunning views and the occasional sighting of rare wildlife. Situated on the coast just north of Rodney Bay, the 18-hole championship course is perfect for both serious golfers and those who spend a lot of time admiring the bunkers; a driving range and golf lessons will help remove any rustiness. The restaurant and bar (open to nonmembers) will help you forget about the triple bogeys. It often attracts big names, from Bill Clinton to Tony Greig and Kenny G. After hosting a successful Viv Richards Golf Day in 2005, they are already planning an open-day for the England cricketers just before the World Cup. It may be the only chance to see Michael Vaughan hit a straight one. If golf isn’t your game, then cricket tours are growing on the island – see pages 20-21. So, after a day of relaxation, how about a spot of climbing tomorrow ... “The view from the Pitons tops all others; the Brian Lara of panoramas” 10 5. The Pitons Halfway up a bloody big mountain, legs redder than Angus Fraser after seven overs on the trot, face submerged in sweat, it’s a case of “Thank God the view is so damn incredible.” Maybe I’ll just stay here. After all, is there any real need to get right to the top? The compulsory guides get this kind of attitude a lot, and they’re well aware that it really is worth it. In an island stocked-up with heart-stopping views, this one tops them all; the Brian Lara of panoramas. Gros Piton and Petit Piton (I’m climbing the big one) are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, which also includes the Sulphur Springs (see below), and the never-ending expanse of rainforest that surrounds the town of Soufriere in the south of the island. ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD Swing time: after 18 rounds at the St Lucia Golf Resort above, why not cool off under one of the island’s waterfalls left, or if you’re after adventure, how about climbing the Pitons above right or a spot of jungle biking? right 08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:13 pm Page 11 The twin peaks are St Lucia’s defining image – an epic gateway to the island. The trek to the top takes around two hours, the mosquitos are out in force, it does get steep and a certain degree of fitness is needed, but it is massively rewarding. It has to be done. Long-sleeved shirts or T-shirts are advisable, as well as a decent-sized bottle of water. Most importantly, though, pack a camera. 6. Sulphur Springs The descent from the Pitons takes another two hours, and there is no better way to recuperate than heading for the nearby Sulphur Springs, situated in the heart of the Caribbean’s only drive-in volcano. The hot springs belch out steam – too hot for having a dip – but you can for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 11 08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:13 pm Page 12 10 things to see and do 7. Gros Islet Street Party and Fish Friday at Anse La Raye Everywhere I turn, there is fish. The most delicious looking fish you’ll ever see. My nose is in heaven, my stomach crying out to be fed. The streets of fishing village Anse La Raye, normally quiet and spacious during the day, have transformed into a montage of barbecues, grills, benches, bands, bars and DJs. Hundreds of people – locals and tourists – are dancing, eating and looking pretty damned satisfied. S C O S O bathe in the mineral-enriched, warm river. Bones no longer ache, bites no longer itch. Then, if that wasn’t enough, Toraille waterfall and the Diamond Botanical Gardens and Waterfall are within touching distance (see page 17). Of course, for those action men and women who think that spending an afternoon bathing is for wimps, you can indulge in a spot of jungle biking just up the coast at Anse Chastanet. It’s a superb way to take in the local plantations, French colonial ruins, orchids and forests. Trying to bike up the Pitons, however, is not advised. 12 08-13 10 Things To Do 30/3/06 6:13 pm Page 13 “St Lucia is a perfect haven for divers” Good times guaranteed: eating al fresco at Anse La Raye top left, magical Marigot Bay left, exploring the deep blue sea right and party time at St Lucia Jazz below Fish Friday is one of the highlights of any stay on the island; of all of the things I bored my friends in England about on my return, this one comes top of the list. Lobsters, shrimp, lambi, whelks and much more all simmer in the warm sea breeze, creating such an enticing, tangy smell that I’m surprised you don’t see people drooling. Leaving these delights behind, I head to the Gros Islet Street Party – the epicentre of party-time on a Friday night. Only a small village 20 years ago, Gros Islet has grown enormously on the back of its carnival reputation, which goes on to the early hours of Saturday morning. Open-air music, barbecued fish and chicken and a whole lotta dancing is what Gros Islet does best. Like Anse La Raye, the aroma is thoroughly enticing and can stay with you for days, a perfect reminder of a perfect Friday night in St Lucia. Be prepared to test your stamina (and your appetite for alcohol), as it will be needed to last the distance, and a day on the beach is probably the best way to recuperate. ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD 8. a permanent reminder of the film, until it went missing, never to be found again. No one knows just how a giant pink snail goes missing overnight, but the locals love telling the story. 9. Diving at Anse Cochon Just south of Marigot bay is the island’s foremost dive site, Anse Cochon. St Lucia is a haven for divers, with recommended sites into double figures. What sets Anse Cochon apart is the chance to explore St Lucia’s only sunken wreck – a 165-foot freighter, conveniently sunk by the Department of Fisheries in 1986 to create an artificial reef. The local, secluded Ti Kaye Village overlooks the site, and is a great place to stay if you’re after a week of diving (see page 18-19). There is also a dive shop and quiet beach with a restaurant and bar, which provides, as in my case, a great place to watch the dives from a nice, safe, dry distance. There is also the chance to see the island’s version of the Loch Ness Monster. Called The Thing. Apparently it is often sighted at night. You may spot it, but all you’ll remember in the morning is the taste of rum and coke and Piton beer. 10. St Lucia Jazz World-renowned artists, events throughout the island, top-quality rum, a tempting variety of food and dancing until your feet hurt, St Lucia Jazz is one of the world’s top festivals. It happens every May and draws in crowds from all over the world. If you love a good time, don’t miss it. For more on this unique event, see pages 14-15. ❁ Marigot Bay If you like to sail, then Marigot Bay is the place to head for on the island. Or, if you just like beaches shaded by coconut palms, fabulous restaurants (see pages 18-19) and views that make you forget to carry on walking, then Marigot Bay is also the place for you. The harbour is teeming with yachts and, with a new hotel opening in the summer that promises to offer unparalled accommodation (see page 18-19), there are few better places to set up anchor. The location inspired the filmmakers of the original Dr Doolittle (1947) to set much of the film there. The giant pink snail that Doolittle sails away on at the end of the film was left by the crew and was for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 13 14-15 Jazz Festival 30/3/06 6:35 pm Page 14 St Lucia Jazz St Lucia What is it? Does what it says on the tin. If you’re thinking Glastonbury, you’re way off. There are no growling rock acts and no hippies swigging cider in the mud. Instead, it’s a world-renowned 10-day celebration of all things jazzy, with big headline acts from the world of jazz and rhythm and blues playing in venues throughout the island. Get ready to dance, dance, dance. When is it? George Wein, festival promoter extraordinaire, ranks St Lucia Jazz in the top three festivals in the world. The winning combination of sun, music, food, rum and partying into the small hours attracts thousands of visitors from the Caribbean, America and Europe every year. Many of them return, and it’s easy to understand why. The island, already famous for its carnival atmosphere, is a real hubbub of good feeling and high spirits for the 10 days. Who’s played? Herbie Hancock, James Carter, Spyro Gyra, Boo Hinkson, Wynton Marsalis, Al Jarreau, Chick Correa, Cassandra Wilson, Lauryn Hill, Ashanti, Courtney Pine, Shaggy, Kenny G, En Vogue, Luther Vandross. S C O S O May 5 to 14. Seal headlines and legend Al Green performs. Why should I go? 14 14-15 Jazz Festival 30/3/06 6:35 pm Page 15 Jazz Are there any other festivals on St Lucia? What if I don’t like Jazz? Don’t worry – the image of jazz in the Caribbean is far removed from stuffy English jazz clubs where everyone says ‘Nice’. Like most festivals, the ambience and the atmosphere counts for more than the music; when everyone around you is having a great time, it’s impossible to not get swept up by it. What should I wear? ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD, GETTY Orange. With a bit of yellow and green. Make it as bright as you can. Keep it cool. Alternatively, flowing white cottons and linens. No greys. Sunscreen is a must, and straw hats are very popular. “It’s impossible to not get swept away by St Lucia Jazz” There isn’t a month that goes by without a celebration of something, and the only way St Lucians know to celebrate is with dancing and music. Carnival, which runs for two days in July, is a celebration of the island’s culture, blending theatre, music, dance and drama. Creole Heritage Month in October is a celebration of all things St Lucian, with storytelling, eating and a spot of folk music.❁ Nobel Laureate Week How about this for a fact: per capita, St Lucia has more Nobel laureates than any other country. Derek Walcott above won the Literature prize in 1992, while Arthur Lewis won for Economics in 1979. The islanders are enormously proud of this achievement and a week is set aside every January to celebrate all things cultural. Kicking off on January 23 – the birth date of both Walcott and Lewis – the celebration consists of two major lectures, panel discussions, plays, poetry, drama and music. School children are also heavily involved. The week attracts visitors from all over the Caribbean, and often entices luminaries from the world of literature, including poet Seamus Heaney and the late, great playwright Arthur Miller. If you’re after a bit of culture in the Caribbean, make sure you head for St Lucia in January. for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 15 23_Stlucia 24/7/06 12:27 pm Page 1 Papillon, St Lucia Affordable St Lucia Whether your customers are looking for a fun filled family break, a relaxing romantic retreat or even a dream wedding or honeymoon, a rex resorts holiday on the unique island of St Lucia is the perfect solution. Choose from the Royal, Papillon or the St Lucian With three stunning rex resorts on the island your customers will be spoilt for choice; they can enjoy the luxury and sophistication of the Royal; or the well established and relaxing St Lucian; or for thrill seekers, the Papillon is the place to stay where numerous water sports and activities are on offer. For Trade support and bookings call 020 8741 5333 or visit www.rexresorts.com Plus resorts in: Antigua • Grenada • St Lucia • Tobago • Barbados Terms and Conditions Apply. Packages vary by hotel – see website for details. All-inclusive price includes: • Beautiful beach locations • All meals and selected drinks • Daily activities programme • Regular entertainment • Kid’s Club • Windsurfing and Sailing • Snorkeling • Tennis Room only holidays also available 17 Heritage + Rain Forest 30/3/06 6:09 pm Page 17 Heritage tours With an abundance of natural beauty, it is no surprise that St Lucia is home to so many stunning heritage sites. James Burgess picks out the top attractions Cultural Heritage Tours Botanical Gardens Kicking off with a spot of urban culture, the Castries Heritage Walk brings the island’s sense of colonial history to life. Guides really know their stuff, and it’s no surprise they appear to be brimming with enthusiasm – the blend of English, French, African and Caribbean architecture is enough to get the oldest cynic relishing the sights ... If you fancy learning about the old customs of St Lucian cuisine in a picturesque setting, then Fond Latisab Creole Park in Babonneau is a real must. A local community delight in showing you cooking on macambou leaves, how not to get stung when collecting honey, fishing for Crayfish and the process of making cassava bread. It’s undeniably bohemian and wonderful fun ... Pigeon Island National Landmark, at different times home to pirates and the British military, is one of the highlights of St Lucia. See page 9. Tranquillity, shaded trails, lush vegetation and acres of rare flora of all colours of the rainbow: visiting one of St Lucia’s three botanical gardens is like stepping into a Monet landscape, with the added bonus of the sounds of birds and a breeze. The Diamond Botanical Gardens is nestled under the imperious Pitons and you’ll have the chance to watch the world go by in the therapeutic, mineral-rich baths, once used by France’s King Louis XVI ... A feeling of finding yourself in a private world is what is so special about Mamiku Gardens. From the dense trees to the enchanting views of the ocean, this beautiful habitat found off Veux Fort highway is a real getaway-from-it-all attraction ... Perfect if you’re heading north is a visit to Tropica Gardens, combining banana fields, great views of Castries and a wooden craft studio. Plantation Tours With buildings dating back to the sugar age and remains of Amerindian settlements, Fond d’Or Nature Historic Park is great for history buffs and those who love a decent hike. Waiting for you is a gorgeous white sandy beach where you often find the magnificent sight of leatherback turtles ... Treat your taste buds with a fruit-tasting session at Fond Doux Estate, a working plantation. If that leaves you hungry, there’s no need to worry: a sumptuous Creole lunch is provided in the plantation house ... Morne Coubaril Estate has a museum, botanical garden and restaurant among the authentic workers’ village and sugar mill. ❁ ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD Jungle boogie Twenty-nine miles of cool, enchanting trails run through St Lucia’s sprawling rainforest. Each mile offers something new, something fresh; a melee of brilliant colours painted by rare plants and birds, trees teasingly circled by climbing plants that provide perches for the hummingbirds. Although most trails are quite strenuous, the Barre De L’isle Trail takes only two hours. Bridging east and west St Lucia, the trail has lookout points that reveal everything that is naturally beautiful about St Lucia ... For a paralysing view of Mt Gimie, St Lucia’s highest peak, head for the Edmund Forest Reserve. The trek through lush forest packed with mushrooms, orchids and a variety of plants takes a little under four hours ... At the foot of Mt Gimie is Enbas Saut, the highlight being the two glorious waterfalls found at the head of the Troumassee river ... If you’re after real seclusion, Des Cartiers Rainforest is the hardest to get to but just as rewarding, with St Lucia’s wildlife apparently on a mission to show off to tourists. for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 17 18-19 Hotels & Restaurants 30/3/06 6:34 pm Page 18 Hotels and Restaurants Staying in, eating out After a long day spent exploring rainforests or sprawled out on the beach, you’ll want to top it off with a five-star meal and then retire to your comfortable, stylish room. Richard Ledger experienced both of these in abundance during his two-week stay South Ladera Resort (www.ladera-stlucia.com) family, are always on hand and it really lends the complex a personal and family feel. The restaurant and bar are of excellent quality and there is a free shuttle service to the nearby beach. What’s so special? Who’s it for? Couples, family. Other quality hotels to check out: Anse Chastanet (www.ansechastanet.com) Jalousie Hilton Resort and Spa (www.jalousie-hilton.com) West Coast Ti Kaye Village Resort (www.tikaye.com) What’s so special? Opening in summer 2006, Discovery is shaping up to be St Lucia’s most stylish hotel in one of the island’s most stunning locations. The 124 rooms and villas offer great views of the bay, as well as flatscreen TVs, DVD player, internet access and enough space to hide the giant pink snail from Dr Doolittle that went missing from the Bay several years ago. Treehouse weddings, lapli spa, luxury pool with a children’s area, bars and restaurants – it ticks all of the boxes. Apparently, the French breakfast will be flown fresh from Paris every morning. Who’s it for? Anyone and everyone. S You’re submerged in your private pool, sipping a chilled beverage, staring out across the rainforest and watching the sun set behind the Pitons. It doesn’t get much better than this. The Ladera recently became the first Caribbean hotel to win the “Best of the Best” award at the prestigious US Condé Nast Traveler awards. It’s difficult to disagree. Each of the six villas and 18 suites are minus a west-facing wall to really expose the full magnitude of the towering Pitons. Ladera’s restaurant, Dasheene, has a deserved reputation as one of the best on the island. Good board as well: it covers breakfast, a shuttle service to nearby beaches and snorkelling equipment. Discovery at Marigot Bay (www.discoverystlucia.com) A more modest, great-value version of Ladera. Each of the 16 individual villas has a plunge pool, hammock and outdoor shower (don’t worry – only the birds and insects will be able to get a view you). The surroundings are stunning, with views of Petit Piton and the calm, emerald sea. The owners, the Brown 18 Who’s it for? Couples, divers. O / S What’s so special? O Stonefield Estate (www.stonefieldvillas.com) Situated in Anse Cochon, one of St Lucia’s finest beaches and top diving locations, Ti Kaye feels like something of a secret. It’s found down the bottom of a beaten-track, immediately lending it an authentic rustic atmosphere. The 16-acre site is clearly wellloved, and the guests feel that way too, with staff maximising their special power to remember everyone’s first names. The beach bar is a popular destination for residents, and there are water taxis to Castries, Rodney Bay and Soufriere. Perfectly accommodating: St Lucia’s hotels offer a tantalising mix of beaches, fine dining and excellent accommodation SCO Couples. Children are a fairly rare sight. O What’s so special? Who’s it for? 18-19 Hotels & Restaurants 30/3/06 6:34 pm Page 19 Dining in style Windjammer Landing (www.windjammer-landing.com) What’s so special? This 60-acre site offers something a little bit different to anything else on St Lucia. Built as a village, quaint brick paths wander through waterfalls, pools and gardens, eventually opening out at a secluded, 1,000-foot long beach. Five restaurants, floodlit tennis courts, two swimming pools and two kids’ pools and a children and teen centre means you’ll never be bored – and that’s just when staying within the village. Who’s it for? The Coal Pot, Vigie Marina Ask anyone for their top restaurant in St Lucia, and the majority will mention this elegant, vibrant eatery in Castries. New World cuisine married with a stone and wood open air design and the water from the marina just a few feet away create an ambient dining experience at both lunch and dinner. The Lime, Rodney Bay Like many restaurants in Rodney Bay, the Lime’s food is reasonably priced and varied. From fresh seafood to pork and steaks, service is quick and often accompanied by live music. Families, couples. Rainforest Hideaway, Marigot Bay For those on a tighter budget, the Village Inn & Spa below is situated in the heart of Rodney Bay and provides for all of your holiday needs. (www.villageinnandspa.com) DISCOVERY AT MARIGOT BAY, MATTHEW SHAW/ALMOND MORGAN BAY, VILLAGE INN AND SPA North Almond Morgan Bay (www.almondresorts.com) Ti Bananne, Rodney Bay If you’re after fine French Caribbean dining at good rates, Rodney Bay’s spacious Ti Bananne (small banana) is ideal. With alfresco dining by the Coco Palm swimming pool, it is best appreciated at lunch. What’s so special? How does watching the sun set over the ocean from your balcony sound to you? Or going to sleep to the sound of the sea lapping up to the beach? The 238-room hotel three miles outside Castries opened in November 2005 and already offers some of the best allinclusive accommodation on the island. Four pools (three for the kids’), four restaurants and bars, a spa, a kids club, access to beaches and a large range of watersports … yep, everything accounted for. Who’s it for? Anyone and everyone. Surrounded by lush greenery and with a stunning view of the bay, the Rainforest Hideaway is one of St Lucia’s most intimate restaurants. The menu is a fusion of Caribbean, Asian and Oriental and the food can be washed down with a little help from the Champagne bar. Reservations recommended. Other quality hotels to check out: Royal St Lucian, Reduit Beach (www.rexresorts.com) Bay Gardens Hotel, Rodney Bay (www.baygardenshotel.com) Coco Kreole, Rodney Bay (www.coco-resorts.com) Sandals Grande, Pigeon Island (www.sandals.com) The Great House Restaurant, Cap Estate Perfect for large parties, the Great House Restaurant combines international and Caribbean cuisine to startlingly good effect. If you’ve had a hard day swinging a golf club at the near-by course, there’s no better place to recuperate. for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 19 20-21 Cricket Tours 30/3/06 6:33 pm Page 20 Caribbean Tour Diary Caribbean tour diary Touring teams from England are heading to St Lucia in increasing numbers. Nigel Abbott of Surrey side Claygate tells their story laygate CC is a small village club who play in the Surrey Downs league. They’ve been undertaking international tours for the last 10 years and have toured Sri Lanka, Barbados, Goa, South Africa and Trinidad and Tobago. In 2006 they decided to return to the Caribbean and chose St Lucia because of the knowledge of the Barmy Army’s Suranjan Cooray, a long-time member of Claygate, who was already aware of the cricketing and general attractions of the island. Cooray also has plans to take several thousand Barmies there for the World Cup. Cooray liaised with the St Lucian Cricket Association and set up a two-week, seven-game tour in February 2006. C Sunday Feb 12th Our first game, against Soufriere. Unseasonal heavy rain waterlogs the pitch and it’s called off at 9am. Frustrating for some, but good for a couple of the youngsters who have just discovered the effects of large amounts of rum. It may not be for the last time. Tuesday Feb 14th Friday Feb 10th 2006 A party of 45 players including wives, children and mothers-in-law arrive at Gatwick. The player’s cricketing skills are already honed to perfection after several anticipatory months in the nets. This may or may not be true. On arrival in St Lucia they head for the Bay Gardens Hotel, Rodney Bay. Our first game at Mindoo Phillip Park (below left) – the main venue pre-Beausejour, located in Castries. It’s soon obvious that for Claygate, the locals read ‘England’. The opposition turns out with a couple of St Lucian and Windward Island players! They score 200-plus … we’re a hundred short. Wednesday Feb 15th Net practice at the Beausejour stadium. What a privilege to be able to practise on this terrific new ground. We feel good about the side, which is a broad mixture of ages and abilities. A touch jetlagged though … Second game against the Police All-stars, including the deputy commissioner. Best behaviour, then, and hide the duty free. We start to rue the shortage of one or two key players. Why did they decide not to come? They score 200-plus … we’re a hundred short. Friday Feb 17th C C O C Game at Soufriere. A stunning ground under the shadow of the world famous Pitons. There probably isn’t a more picturesque ground in the Caribbean, but the temperatures reach well into the 90s and there were no facilities or shade. Even for all the rum and cokes in the world we wouldn’t reveal the Claygate score! C Saturday Feb 11th 20 20-21 Cricket Tours 30/3/06 6:33 pm Page 21 Saturday Feb 18th Second game at Soufriere. We bat first to see if we can change the run of form. Gap-year student Jamie Henderson knocks a useful 76 and we post a respectable 159. They get them for five. How do they hit the ball so hard? Monday Feb 20th Boat trip to see some of the major sites of the island. The volcano, the Pitons and some of St Lucia’s fantastic bays and beaches. A really memorable day … at least until the rum takes hold! There appears to be a theme here … Tuesday Feb 21st Mon Repos. Rain and a mini marathon in the morning means the game starts a few hours late and we agree 30 overs. It doesn’t make any difference. They score just fewer than 200 ... we’re a hundred short. Great interaction with the locals. Post-match atmosphere is very special. Our coach always travels with copious supplies of Piton beer! That’s why the locals remember us and turn out in force to play us! Wednesday Feb 22nd Reading the conditions Last game at Mindoo Phillip Park immediately after Independence Day celebrations. The highlight is 17-year-old Joel Watkins taking 5 for 38, his first ever ‘fifer’. What a place to do it and Joel is man of the match! They score 200 plus … we’re a hundred short. England wicketkeeper Chris Read, who played in both of England’s only appearances at Beausejour in 2004, gives his verdict on the stadium Thursday Feb 23rd CRICKET WORLD CUP, PATRICK EAGAR The cricketing highlight. We play a representative junior side and have the pleasure of playing on St Lucia’s pride and joy, Beausejour. Twenty-five Claygate supporters fill the stadium with enthusiastic support! Closest game of the tour. They score 190. We’re 20 short with nine down. A great game and a real occasion. Friday Feb 24th Claygate secretary Rufus Legg reflects: “Each game presented a variety of challenges – none of which we were quite up to, but in overall terms we had a terrific time on a fantastic island.”❁ he views are pretty incredible, it’s not far from the beach so there’s a great view of the hills and forests. It’s a very beautiful ground with a wonderful setting. Certainly getting out to the sea for some sailing and deep-sea fishing has to be an option when visiting St Lucia – it is for me and any length of stay on the island provides great opportunities to indulge. It’s certainly a nice change to play in St Lucia as a lot of the grounds in the Caribbean are in major cities. The Beausejour Cricket Ground is brand new and you have to commend the authorities for building it outside the city; it creates a wonderful atmosphere, like the fans have gone out of their way to have a party. Hopefully they have the infrastructure and transport links there to make it all work for the World Cup as the local area is literally a 10-15 minute drive from the main track. When everything is complete it will be an amazing few weeks – the fans will fall in love with the island and the ground. It’s a little hard to tell England’s chances at the World Cup as a lot can happen in a year. I think it will be a pretty open contest with not much of a home advantage. I imagine a lot of the pitches will be flat and a lot of runs will be scored. Being just off the sea there’s a bit of breeze too but on such good batting wickets bowlers might struggle a bit. ❁ T for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 21 22 St Lucia History 31/3/06 2:34 pm Page 22 Past Times Past Times You’d never believe it to look at the island, but the history of St Lucia is a catalogue of bloody battles and crumbling empires fourth voyage in 1502, new evidence suggests that he may have sailed by the island. Another theory points the finger at Juan de la Cosa, one of Columbus’ lieutenants, in 1499 or 1504. Peaceful beginnings St Lucia’s natural peace was first disturbed between 1000 and 500 BC by farmers and fishermen from north-eastern South America. Although little is known about this ancient civilisation, archaeologists have uncovered cave drawings and domestic artefacts in sites throughout the island. While these settlers are believed to have lived relatively peacefully, this all changed when the Carib Indians, a fierce warrior tribe also from South America, marched through Southern Caribbean islands, leaving a trail of bloodshed that led to a rapid supremacy on St Lucia. European intervention The Carib Indians’ rule was eventually disturbed by the Europeans sometime around 1500. Just who first set foot on the island is still debatable. Traditionally credited to Christopher Columbus during his 22 The first European settlers were French, led by pirate Jambe de Bois (‘wooden leg’) in the 1550s, who used his base on Pigeon Island to launch attacks on Spanish ships. In 1605, St Lucia got its first taste of the British when the ship Olive Branch was blown off course from its intended destination of Guyana. Although the relationship between the Caribs and the 67 Brits started amicably, within five weeks there were only 19 remaining, and they were forced into a desperate escape using a canoe. Sir Thomas Warner led 400 men to St Lucia in 1639; within 18 months, all of them had been killed by the Caribs. Anglo-French relations The rivalry between the French and the British started in the mid-1600s, when the French made peace with the Caribs. Jealous, Britain laid claim in 1659; the rivalry and fighting continued for another 150 years. The island changed hands 14 times amid endless battles. In 1814, Britain finally claimed the island for itself. Island independence When African slaves were emancipated in 1838, they accounted for 90% of the island’s population. Their descendents eventually saw independence in 1979, when the British crown severed the colonial links and it became a member of the Commonwealth. ❁ Historical attractions Fond Doux Estate A working estate just outside Soufriere with trails that lead to military ruins Forte Charlotte Found in Morne Fortune, the fort dates back to 1764. The fortifications are well preserved and you can visit the barracks and cells Morne Coubaril Estate Group tours of this plantation restored for tourists. Guides are dressed in period dress for no extra charge Folk Research Centre Dedicated to all things cultural on St Lucia, with a small art gallery and library. Find it in Castries Pigeon Island (above) Rodney Fort is an imposing site against the backdrop of a clear sea Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Conception One of Castries’ finest buildings, the church is a sanctuary of calm in a busy city ST LUCIA TOURSIT BOARD British failures 23_Stlucia 24/7/06 12:24 pm Page 1 24-25 Listings Pages 30/3/06 6:30 pm Page 24 Listings Number Crunching Airlines British Airways Virgin Atlantic BWIA 0870 850 9850 0870 190 4406 0870 499 2942 Travel Plans After a very careful selection process the following agents have been appointed in several countries. However, several others are pending. Continue to visit www.cricketworldcup.com for updates on the full list of approved Official Travel Agents. Car Rentals +1 758 451 6976 +1 758 452 8673 +1 758 458 2031 +1 758 452 8140 +1 758 451 7885 +1 758 452 0680 Best at Travel PLC T/A Sporting Journeys Telephone: 0870 708 2001 Email: [email protected] 0871 871 2828 1 800 223 1108 +1 758 452 8060 +1 758 452 0712 +1 758 458 5300 0870 389 1931 0887 445 34 020 8741 5333 +1 758 459 7037 +1 758 456 8105 +1 758 458 3300 0800 316 9797 ITC Sports Telephone: 01244 355390 Email: [email protected] Almond Morgan Bay Anse Chastanet Bay Gardens Coco Resorts Discovery at Marigot Bay Jalousie Hilton Resort Ladera Resort Royal by Rex Resorts Stonefield Estate Ti Kaye Village Resort Village Inn and Spa Windjammer Landing Restaurants Ti Bananne The Coal Pot The Great House Restaurant The Lime Rainforest Hideaway +1 758 452 0712 +1 758 452 5566 +1 758 450 0450 +1 758 452 0761 +1 758 451 4485 Travel Agencies Carib Travel Agency Solar Tours and Travel Travel Concepts, Inc +1 758 452 2151 +1 758 452 5898 +1 758 458 2243 The Cricket Tour Co Telephone: 0149 471 3007 Email: [email protected] The Sporting Traveller Telephone: 0173 724 4398 Email: [email protected] Caribbean Collection Telephone: + 353 21 463 5556 Email: [email protected] St Lucia Tourist Board Lower Ground Floor 1 Collingham Gardens London SW5 OHW Telephone: 0870 900 7697 Fax: 020 7341 7001 Email [email protected] www.stlucia.org S C O For more details on the hotels and restaurants listed, see page 18-19 for Nic Pierce’s account of his sleeping and eating habits during his two-week stay in St Lucia. Taj Tours and Travel Telephone: 020 8900 1986 Email: [email protected] O Hotels Gullivers Sports Travel Telephone: 01684 293175 Email: [email protected] S Avis Rent-A-Car Budget Rent-A-Car Cool Breeze Jeep Rentals Courtesy Car Rentals Guys Car Rental Hertz/Sun-Fun Tours Ltd. 24 24-25 Listings Pages 30/3/06 6:30 pm Page 25 Groups GROUP A GROUP B St Kitts & Nevis Trinidad & Tobago Australia (1) South Africa (5) Scotland (12) The Netherlands (16) Sri Lanka (2) India (8) Bangladesh (11) Bermuda (15) GROUP C GROUP D New Zealand (3) England (7) Kenya (10) Canada (14) Pakistan (4) West Indies (6) Zimbabwe (9) Ireland (13) Jamaica St Lucia Match Schedule Group Stage DATE Tue 13 Mar Wed 14 Mar Thu 15 Mar Fri 16 Mar Sat 17 Mar Sun 18 Mar Mon 19 Mar Tue 20 Mar Wed 21 Mar Thu 22 Mar Fri 23 Mar Sat 24 Mar Sun 25 Mar Semi-finals Semi Finals GROUP A ST KITTS & NEVIS GROUP B TRINIDAD & TOBAGO GROUP C GROUP D ST LUCIA JAMAICA WI v PAK AUS v SCO KEN v CAN SL v BER SA v NET ENG v NZ PAK v IRE Final WI v ZIM DATE ENG v CAN IND v BER SA v SCO NZ v KEN SL v BAN SCO v NET Tue 24 Apr Wed 25 Apr SEMIFINAL 1 JAMAICA SEMIFINAL 2 ST LUCIA 2v3 1v4 ZIM v IRE IND v BAN AUS v NET DATE Sat 28 Apr BARBADOS ZIM v PAK NZ v CAN IND v SL AUS v SA WI v IRE ENG v KEN BER v BAN Second Stage – Super Eight Series ST LUCIA TOURIST BOARD, GETTY ANTIGUA & BARBUDA Tue 27 Mar Wed 28 Mar Thu 29 Mar Fri 30 Mar Sat 31 Mar Sun 01 Apr Mon 02 Apr Tues 03 Apr Wed 04 Apr Sat 07 Apr Sun 08 Apr Mon 09 Apr Tue 10 Apr Wed 11 Apr Thu 12 Apr Fri 13 Apr Sat 14 Apr Sun 15 Apr Mon 16 Apr Tue 17 Apr Wed 18 Apr Thu 19 Apr Fri 20 Apr Sat 21 Apr GRENADA GUYANA BARBADOS D2 v A1 A2 v B1 D2 v C1 D1 v C2 A1 v B2 D2 v B1 B2 v C1 D1 v A2 C2 v B1 B2 v A2 A1 v C2 D1 v C1 D2 v A2 C2 v B2 B1 v C1 A1 v D1 A2 v C1 B2 v D1 A1 v B1 A2 v C2 D1 v B1 D2 v B2 A1 v C1 D2 v C2 for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 25 27 Competition.1 31/3/06 2:08 pm Page 27 Competition Win a week in St Lucia You could experience seven thrilling nights on this stunning island courtesy of Rex Resorts and the St Lucia Tourist Board. They have kindly offered flights and accommodation for two on a bed-and-breakfast basis at the high-class St Lucian by Rex Resorts on Reduit Beach in the bustling tourist hive of Rodney Bay. The holiday must be taken by December 1 2006, is subject to availability and the winner will pay all taxes. All you have to do to enter is answer the following questions: 1 What was the first international match to be played at the Beausejour Cricket Ground? 2 How many runs did Garry Sobers score in his Test career? 3 Who won the last World Cup? www.rexresorts.com Send your entries on a postcard to St Lucia Competition, TWC, 1.4 Shepherds Building, Charecroft Way, London W14 OEH or email [email protected] (with the subject line ‘St Lucia’) by May 31. Usual TWC rules apply; editor’s decision is final. If you do not wish your name to be included on any mailing lists that may be passed to other companies, please write “no mailings” on your entry. for further information visit www.cricinfo.com/stlucia 27 WisdenAd_285x220_Fish_BLEED 24/7/06 12:30 pm Page 1 Y OU A RE S O B EAUTIFUL St. Lucia is for travellers seeking enrichment and pleasure through the wonder of the undiscovered, the adventure of the unfamiliar, the freshness of the unspoiled and the stimulation of the exotic. This beloved island offers a diverse range of enchanting places to stay and things to do, something to satiate all tastes. Begin your fantasy with a visit to www.stlucia.org Simply contact the St. Lucia Tourist Board 0870 900 7697 or [email protected]