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Beginner’s Guide
to Quiltmaking
PLUS
7Speedy
Strip-pieced Patterns
Beginner’s Guide Includes:
Patterns Includes:
Rotary Cutting
Chintz Fantasy
Strip Piecing
Illusion
How to Make Continuous Bias
Be My Sweetheart
Quiltmaking Fundamentals
Firecracker
Pesto Presto
Harvest Table
Tuck Me In
visit our website: QuickQuilts.com
Beginner’s Guide
Part 1: Rotary Cutting
Rotary cutting has revolutionized quiltmaking!
Were it not for these wonderfully handy gadgets,
millions of quiltmakers would not have joined
the quilting craze. Using cutting tools safely and
accurately is very important, so we want to share a
few tips for beginning rotary-cutters in hopes that
you will get optimum advantage from the projects
in Quick Quilts!
One
One
After being cut or torn at the store and then washed and ironed
at home, fabric is almost never straight and ready for rotary cutting. It is imperative that you start with a straight edge across the
width of the fabric.
Bringing selvages together, allow fabric to drop in front of you.
Keeping selvages even, scoot fabric along with your fingers until
it falls perfectly straight. The raw edges where fabric is torn will
probably not match up.
Place 6” x 24” rotary-cutting ruler on fabric, aligning one of the
crosswise measuring lines precisely along the fold. Pressing down
firmly on the ruler with your left (right) hand, cut away from
yourself along the ruler edge. Some people prefer cutting part
way, stopping the cutting motion but not lifting the cutter, moving
the left (right) hand up, then finishing the cut.
Three
Turn cutting board around so that newly straightened edge is to
the left (right). To cut strips, find line on ruler to match width of
strip desired. Place this line exactly on cut edge of fabric and cut
strip.
Four
Two
Lay fabric on cutting mat with folded edge toward you and raw
edge to be straightened to the right (left-handers to the left).
Two
To cut perfect squares: Align 1 or more strips of the same width
and trim ends to get an even starting point. Make cuts the same
width as strips were cut.
Three
Four
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
1
Part 3:
Part 4:
How to Make
Continuous Bias
1. Remove selvages from fabric and cut a 40˝
square. (A 40˝ square should make about 16
yards of 2d˝-wide bias strip.)
Five
Frequently used shapes
are half-square and
quarter-square triangles.
A square cut once diagonally makes 2 half-square
triangles; a square cut
twice diagonally makes 4
quarter-square triangles.
Part 2:
Strip
Piecing
Strip-piecing refers to
rotary cut strips of specified widths being sewn
together on long edges
to make strip-pieced
units (photo A).
When creating simple
strip-pieced patchwork
(nine-patch squares, for
example), press seam
allowances in opposite
directions (photo B) so
that long units can be
layered for cutting quickly
and will later be easy to
sew. In the photo, seam
allowances were pressed
toward the light floral
fabric on both strips.
Strip-pieced units are cut
apart, segments positioned to make patchwork, and sewn together
(photo C).
Five
2. Lightly label square, as shown in Diagram I.
Cut square in half diagonally to make triangles.
With right sides facing and raw edges aligned,
join triangles (seam 1) to form a parallelogram, as shown in Diagram II. Press seam
open. Measure and mark across parallelogram
with lines equal to the width of your bias strip,
as shown.
Seam 2
A
Seam 1
3. Form a tube by aligning edges marked seam
2, matching your marked lines and offsetting
the edge of one strip width beyond line. (See
Diagram III.) Stitch and press seam open.
B
4. Start at offset end and cut around the tube on
marked lines for your continuous bias strip.
C
2
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
Seam 2
Diagram II
Q
Quiltmaking Fundamentals
These instructions are intended to give you
a brief and basic introduction to quiltmaking.
Instructions for quilts on this disc are written
for the individual with some sewing experience. Take time to review these pages
before beginning if you are making your first
quilt.
Basic Quiltmaking Supplies
Iron and ironing board
Pencils and sharpener
Quilting hoop or frame
Quilting thread
(cotton for hand quilting, monofilament or
cotton for machine quilting)
Pins and pincushion
Rotary cutter and mat
(at least 18˝ x 24˝)
Rulers: 2˝ x 18˝, clear plastic
12˝ square, and 6˝ x 24˝ for use with a
rotary cutter
Sewing machine
Sewing thread in colors to match your
fabrics
Shears, 8˝ (for fabric)
Fabric Preparation
We recommend washing, drying, and
pressing all fabrics before using. Pre-washing
will help wash out excess dye and preshrink
the fabric. Occasionally, a fabric will continue
to “bleed” after several washings. If this
occurs, add one cup of white vinegar to one
gallon water and soak fabric to help set the
color. If the fabric still continues to “bleed,”
do not use the fabric. To add body to prewashed fabric, use spray fabric finish (not
starch) when pressing.
Pressing
One of the most important steps in
quiltmaking (and most sewing) is proper
pressing. It is important to press after sewing
each seam. When working with strips, be
careful to press them straight and not make
arcs. When working with bias edges, press
them as little as possible before they are
sewn to another piece. Use a light touch
when pressing. Lift the iron, then place back
down on the seam or piece to be pressed
instead of “ironing” without lifting the iron.
Be as careful pressing as you are cutting and
sewing for the best possible results.
Machine Piecing
To join pieces by machine, place two
pieces with right sides together. Align raw
edges and insert pins, perpendicular to seam
line, to secure. (Pins are removed just before
reaching the sewing machine needle.)
When machine piecing, an accurate ¼˝
seam allowance is important. Place a piece
of masking tape on your machine ¼˝ to
right of your needle to mark a ¼˝ seam
allowance. When stitching, align raw eges
of fabric with tape. A ¼˝ presser foot is also
available for most machines.
A machine-stitched seam line is
sewn from raw edge to raw edge, and
backstitching is not necessary because
seams will be crossed by another line of
stitching. Seam allowances are normally
pressed to one side, usually toward the
darker fabric.
Chain-Piecing
To chain-piece, feed pairs of fabric pieces
to be stitched under the presser foot one
after the other, without cutting the sewing
threads between them. After stitching the
first pair, take a few stitches without any
fabric under the needle; then insert the
second pair. The sewing threads form short
“chains” between the paired pieces. Continue in this manner until all pairs have been
stitched. Cut the chains after stitching.
Making Quick Triangles
For two half-square triangles, place two
squares right sides together. Draw a diagonal
line across top square and stitch a ¼˝ seam
on both sides of the line. Cut apart on the
drawn line. This is particularly useful when
working on scrap quilts.
Machine Appliqué
For the machine-appliqué method
discussed below, all pattern pieces are cut
without seam allowances. Then raw edges
are covered with a close machine satin stitch
or blanket stitch.
Use a lightweight paper-backed fusible
web to fuse the appliqué piece to the
background fabric. Draw templates on the
paper side of the fusible web. Fuse to wrong
side of appliqué fabric. Peel paper off, and
following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse
appliqué to background fabric. Use commercially made stabilizer or other material
that will tear out of the stitching beneath
the appliqué piece and background to add
strength and firmness before machineappliquéing (stitching).
Marking Quilting Patterns
Always press the quilt top thoroughly
before marking. Check for misalignment
of seams or any puckering and correct, if
possible.
There are many marking tools available to
quilters, including #2 pencil, water-erasable
markers, chalk pencils, artist’s white or silver
pencils, and many more. Before choosing
the tool to mark the quilt top, ALWAYS TEST
FOR REMOVABILITY. What works on one quilt
may not work on the next!
Quilts can be marked using stencils,
templates, or rulers, to name just a few
choices. As you progress, you will find the
method that gives you the most satisfactory
results. Commercially made stencils are
available through quilt and fabric stores,
or you can make your own from template
plastic. Place the stencil on the quilt top, and
lightly mark on the top, using the tool of your
choice (for dark fabrics, dressmaker’s chalk
pencil or a white or silver artist’s pencil work
well).
Backing
The backing of a quilt is just as important
as the quilt top. The fabric used should be
of the same quality as the fabric used in
the top. If making a wall hanging 32˝ wide
or less, a seamless backing is easy to cut.
For quilts larger than 32˝ wide, a seamed
backing is necessary unless you are using
fabric widths greater than the commonly
used 40/42˝. Backing should be cut 4˝ larger
than the quilt on all sides and sewn with a
vertical or horizontal seam (choose seaming
method that uses least fabric to make the
backing size needed).
Press backing seams open.
Choosing Batting
There are several factors to consider when
choosing batting for a quilting project. How
do you want the quilt to look? How close
together will the rows of quilting be? Are you
quilting by hand or machine? What is the
end use of the quilt? All of these questions
will affect which batting you choose for the
project.
Most batting comes in standard pre-cut
sizes. The standard batting sizes are:
Crib 45˝ x 60˝
Twin 72˝ x 90˝
Full 81˝ x 96˝
Queen 90˝ x 108˝
King 120˝ x 120˝
Batting also comes in a number of different fibers (not all fibers come in all standard
sizes). If you prefer an old-fashioned looking
quilt, looking a little rumpled and well loved,
consider using batting that is mostly cotton
(cotton batting requires more quilting than
some other fibers).
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
3
If you like “puffy” quilts, use a high-loft
polyester batting. If you don’t want to do
a lot of quilting, use a regular or low loft
polyester. Batting also comes in wool, silk,
and other fibers (these are not as widely
available as cotton and polyester batting).
If you are not sure which batting is right for
your project, consult the professionals at your
local quilt or fabric store.
Layering
For any size quilt, other than a small wall
hanging, layering and basting is easier when
done with a partner. Whether you choose
to quilt by hand or machine, the layering
process is the same. There are, however,
different basting methods for hand or
machine quilting.
Finger-crease the backing in half
lengthwise to find center, and lightly mark
on wrong side at bottom and top edges. On
a smooth, flat working surface a little larger
than the quilt, place backing with right side
down. Smooth out any wrinkles until the
backing is flat (use masking tape to tape
backing taut to work surface, if possible). Unfold batting and layer it on backing. Smooth
out wrinkles carefully, to keep backing
wrinkle free.
Fold the quilt top in half lengthwise to
find center, and lightly mark on wrong side
at bottom and top edges. With right side
up, place quilt top on top of the backing
and batting, keeping all layers wrinkle free.
Match center marks of quilt top and backing.
Remove any loose threads. Use straight pins
to keep layers from shifting while you baste.
Basting
The purpose of basting is to hold the
three layers together to prevent shifting
while quilting. Therefore, the quilt should be
adequately basted. Telltale signs of poorly
basted quilts are puckering and wrinkling of
the backing.
If hand quilting, baste, using a darning
needle threaded with approximately 18˝
of sewing thread. Insert needle through all
layers in center of quilt and baste layers
together using a long running stitch. The first
line of basting should be edge to edge, up
the vertical center of the quilt. The second
line of basting should be edge to edge
across the horizontal center of the quilt.
Continue to baste in a grid or starburst
pattern until the layers are completely
stabilized.
If machine quilting, instead of using
needle and thread to baste, use nickel-plated
safety pins. Start in the center of the quilt. In
a circular pattern, radiating out to all edges,
4
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
place a safety pin about every 4˝ (about the
width of a hand). If possible, avoid pinning in
areas where you know you will be quilting (if
quilting in the ditch, avoid pinning on seam
lines). This is not always possible, and there
are times that safety pins will have to be
removed when machine quilting.
Straight-grain binding is usually cut in 2½˝wide strips and folded in half lengthwise before being attached. (A ¼˝ seam allowance
is included in the width measurements.) The
width may vary according to the thickness of
your quilt and your personal preference.
Machine Quilting
Because of the improvement in homesewing machines, machine quilting has
become easier to do, and with practice,
just like hand quilting, great results can be
achieved. Machine quilting can be done
using straight-line stitching, free-motion
stitching, or a combination of both.
After the quilt is pin-basted, roll both long
edges toward the center of the quilt with the
quilt top facing up. Keep rolling until there is
about a 12˝-wide area between rolls at the
center of the quilt. Use bicycle clips (sold in
quilt and fabric stores) to secure rolls. Fold
one unrolled end over several times so that
the quilt is compact and will fit on your lap
while you stitch.
Before quilting, it is best to map out a
strategy. The object of this strategy is to find
the longest uninterrupted stitching routes.
Once these routes are determined, make a
directional map of your design to guide you
as you stitch. This will enable you to stitch
the longest line without stopping. The less
you have to stop and start, the better.
The even-feed foot or walking foot is
helpful for straight-line stitching. It assists the
top fabric through the machine at the same
rate as the feed dog moves the bottom
fabric. Place unrolled section of quilt under
presser foot and stitch. Work to the right.
When the right side is completed, remove
quilt, reroll quilted side, turn it, and stitch left
side. Rest the quilt in your lap while stitching
and support the stitched quilt on a table behind your sewing machine after it is stitched.
A darning foot is used for free-motion
quilting, with the machine’s feed dogs
lowered. The quilt is slowly moved with your
fingertips from side to side under the darning
foot (your hands act as the quilting “hoop”).
The machine should be operated at a steady,
medium speed to prevent uneven stitches.
Meander quilting and stippling are two types
of free-motion quilting.
Attaching the Binding
A carefully stitched binding is vital to a
successful quilt. To begin, stitch layers of quilt
together ¼˝ from the quilt edge. Trim excess
batting and fabric. With right sides together
and raw edges even, pin the binding to
the quilt top. If using a continuous binding,
fold beginning end over with wrong sides
together and start stitching at the midpoint of
your quilt. If using straight-grain binding, start
stitching 6˝ from the end of the binding at
the quilt corners. Backstitch at the beginning
and end of stitching. Stitch through all
layers and miter the corners of the binding
strips. Fold the binding to the quilt back,
and blindstitch in place. To make straightgrain binding with overlapped corners, stitch
binding to opposite sides of quilt and trim
even with top and bottom. Blindstitch to
quilt back. Stitch binding to top and bottom,
leaving 2˝ of extra binding at each end. Fold
the raw end of binding in, then fold binding
toward back of quilt. Blindstitch in place,
stitching corners securely.
To miter corners of your binding strip, stop
stitching ¼˝ from first corner and backstitch.
Remove the quilt from the machine and turn
it 90º. Fold binding strip over itself to form
a 45º fold. When done correctly, the edge
of the unattached binding will align with the
quilt’s raw edge. Begin stitching again at the
corner and backstitch. Continue around the
quilt in the same manner until binding
ends meet.
Finishing
Quilts can be bound with binding cut
on the bias or on the straight grain. A
continuous strip of bias is recommended for
quilts that will be used frequently, and those
with scalloped edges or rounded corners.
(See How To Make Continuous Bias.)
Signing Your Quilt
Signing your quilt is the most important
step in quiltmaking, next to making it. It is
a documentation of who made the quilt
and when. Your documentation should
include the name of the quilt, the quiltmaker,
city, state, date, and quilt pattern. Special
thoughts or feelings about the quilt can
also be included. The documentation can
be typed on muslin or written with a fabricmarking pen.
Instead of making a separate label, many
quilters embroider their name and the date
into the top of the quilt or on the back.
Designed by
Darlene
Zimmerman
Finished Sizes
2 Place Mats
14¼˝ x 19¼˝
2 Napkins
13˝ x 13˝
be my sweetheart
cut!
plan!
Prepare a romantic Valentine meal
complete with red and white table
settings just for the two of you. It’s
fast and easy and sure to be a hit!
✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱
shop!
for place mats and napkins
Red/white dot (piecing,
binding)
White/red dot (piecing,
napkins)
Backing
Low-loft batting
1⅛ yds.
⅞ yd.
⅞ yd.
24˝ x 37˝
piece
Red/white dot
*2 strips 2½” x 78”, pieced from 4
widths of fabric strips (binding)
4 strips 1¾˝ x 24˝
3 strips 1¾˝ x 20˝
4 strips 3˝ x 16˝
4 strips 3˝ x 12˝
White/red dot
3 strips 1¾˝ x 24˝
4 strips 1¾˝ x 20˝
8 squares 3˝ x 3˝
Backing and low-loft batting—cut from
each:
2 rectangles 18˝ x 23˝
*Cut first.
place mats
1 Sew red/white dot and white/red
dot 24˝ strips together, alternating
(Diagram I). Press seams in direction of arrows. Make 1. Cut 12 segments 1¾˝ wide. In similar manner,
make and press 20˝ strip set. Cut
10 segments 1¾˝ wide.
Cut 1¾”
12
1¾” x 24˝
Black medium rickrack
(place mats)
7 yds.
Black mini rickrack (napkins) 3 yds.
Sewing thread, black
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1
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
Make 1
Cut 1¾”
10
1¾” x 20˝
Make 1
Diagram I
napkins
2 Sew 11 segments together, 6
red/white and 5 white/red, alternating (Diagram II-A). Make 2 for place
mat centers. Cut black medium rickrack into the following lengths: 4
strips 15˝ each, 4 strips 10˝ each, 4
strips 20˝ each, and 4 strips 17˝
each. Sew 15˝ strips to top and bottom, aligning with raw edges of place
mat center (Diagram II-B). Trim
ends even with sides. In same manner, stitch 10˝ lengths of rickrack to
sides, overlapping trimmed top/
bottom rickrack strips; trim even with
top/bottom. Repeat for second place
mat center.
from short raw edge to short raw
edge. Trim red 16˝ strips to this
measurement and sew white 3˝
squares to ends. Stitch red 12˝ strips
to short sides of place mat center;
trim even with top/bottom. Sew
pieced strips to top/bottom. Stitch
20˝ rickrack strips to top/bottom,
aligning with raw edges; trim even
(Diagram III-B). Sew 17˝ rickrack
strips to sides; trim even. Make 2
place mat tops.
20˝
cut!
White/red dot
2 squares 14˝ x 14˝
5 Turn under ¼˝ twice on all sides of
white/red 14˝ square (Diagram IV).
Press. Sew close to folded edges.
Make 2.
6 Cut black mini rickrack into 2 strips
54˝ each. Using black thread, stitch
54˝ length of rickrack on right side of
napkin, centering on stitching line of
hem and pivoting at corners. Trim
excess as you approach starting
point of stitched rickrack, turning
under the last ¼˝ to hide raw ends.
Repeat on second napkin.
17˝
Make 2
Diagram II-A
Diagram III-B
4 Layer place mat top, batting and
15˝
10˝
14”
wrong side
backing rectangles. Baste and quilt.
Darlene machine ditch quilted all
seams. She hand quilted a heart
and leaves motif in the red borders
and outline quilted each white corner square. Bind with red/white dot.
Make 2.
Make 2
Diagram II-B
3 Referring to Diagram III-A, measure
exact width of place mat center
Diagram IV
3” x 16˝
3” x 12˝
3”
Diagram III-A
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts 2
Chintz
Fantasy
Designed by Kathie Holland
Machine Quilted by Lorre Fleming
Finished Quilt Size
92½˝ x 92½˝
Number of Blocks and Finished Size
25 Double Four-Patch Blocks 9˝ x 9˝
24 Square-in-a-Square Blocks 9˝ x 9˝
Plan!
Since the large bird print used in
the outer border is directional,
Kathie cut her side borders on the
lengthwise grain, and the top and
bottom border strips on the crosswise grain. She pieced the top and
bottom borders with diagonal
seams, a trick that makes the seams
nearly invisible in the large design
motif. We’ve included enough
yardage so you can do likewise, if
you wish.
You Need:
Cream texture (fourpatches)
#1, #2 and #3 rose/
cream prints (fourpatches)
Dark rose print
(blocks)
Tan/cream/wine
print (blocks)
Brown print (blocks)
Large bird print (blocks,
outer border, binding)
Rose/cream stripe
(inner border)
Backing
Batting
*See Plan!
1
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
½ yd.
¼ yd.
each
¾ yd.
1⅜ yds.
1¼ yds.
5⅝ yds.*
¾ yd.
8½ yds.
King size
Cut!
Cream texture
6 strips 2⅛˝ x width of fabric
(WOF)
#1, #2 and #3 rose/cream prints—
cut from each:
2 strips 2⅛˝ x WOF
Dark rose print
50 squares 3¾˝ x 3¾˝
Tan/cream/wine print
50 squares 5½˝ x 5½˝, cut in
half diagonally to make 100
half-square triangles
Brown print
48 squares 5½˝ x 5½˝, cut in
half diagonally to make 96 halfsquare triangles
Large bird print
*2 strips 13˝ x 72˝, cut on lengthwise grain
*2 strips 13˝ x 96˝, pieced from 6
WOF strips
11 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)
24 squares 6⅞˝ x 6⅞˝
Rose/cream stripe
4 strips 2½˝ x 72˝, pieced from 8
WOF strips
*Cut first.
cream/#2 print segments 2⅛˝
wide; cut 32 cream/#3 print segments 2⅛˝ wide.
� Arrange and stitch matching
strip segments together (Diagram
II) to make four-patch square. Make
18 using #1 print segments, and 16
each using #2 and #3 print segments.
Cut
36
2⅛”
Make 2
Cut
32
2⅛”
Make 2
Cut
32
2⅛”
Make 2
Diagram I
Sew!
쐃 Referring to Diagram I, sew
cream texture and #1 rose/cream
print 2⅛˝ x WOF strips together.
Make 2. Press in direction of arrow.
Cut 36 segments 2⅛˝ wide. In
same manner, make 2 strip sets
each sewing cream texture strips to
#2 and #3 rose/cream print strips.
Press in direction of arrow. Cut 32
Make 18 Make 16 Make 16
Diagram II
� Using matching pair of four-patch
squares and 2 dark rose print 3¾˝
squares, arrange and sew double
four-patch square (Diagram III).
Make 16 total of first arrangement
and 9 total of the second arrangement.
3¾˝
� Sew tan/cream/wine print 5½˝
half-square triangles to sides of double four-patch square to complete
Double Four-Patch Block (Diagram
IV). Make 16 of first arrangement and
9 of second arrangement. In same
manner, sew brown print 5½˝ halfsquare triangles to sides of large bird
print 6⅞˝ square to make Square-ina-Square Block (Diagram V). Make
24. Trim all blocks to 9½˝ square.
Make 16 total
Make 9 total
Diagram III
5½˝
� Referring to Assembly Diagram,
arrange and sew 7 rows of 7 blocks
each, alternating blocks, and following
placement and orientation of Double
Four-Patch Blocks. Sew rows together.
5½˝
� Sew 2½˝ x 72˝ rose/cream stripe
strips to sides; trim even with top and
bottom. Sew remaining rose/cream
stripe strips to top/bottom; trim even
with sides. Stitch large bird print
13˝ x 72˝ strips to sides; trim even.
Stitch bird print 13˝ x 96˝ strips to
top/bottom; trim even.
6⅞˝
Make 24
Diagram V
� Layer, baste, and quilt. Mountain
2½” x 72”
13” x 72”
Mist Cream Rose batting was used in
this quilt. Lorre machine quilted a
continuous swirling leaf pattern over
the entire quilt. Bind quilt with large
bird print fabric (see Quiltmaking
Fundamentals).
13” x 96”
3
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
Assembly Diagram
firecracker
Designed by
Dolores Smith
and Sarah
Maxwell
Machine
Quilted by
Connie
Gresham
Finished
Quilt Size
75˝ x 87˝
Number of
Blocks and
Finished Size
30 Flag Blocks
12˝ x 12˝
plan
Dolores and Sarah designed this
firecracker of a quilt to take advantage
of all of the wonderful patriotic prints
available now. We’ve listed the fabrics
by their predominant color, but all of
the fabrics in the quilt are a combination of red, white, and blue. Also, Sarah
and Dolores chose to include one
mottled fabric of each color; do likewise if you wish.
cut
Assorted white prints—cut 30 sets of:
2 matching strips 2˝ x 20˝
Assorted red prints/stripes—cut 30
sets of:
2 matching strips 2˝ x 20˝
Assorted blue prints/stripes—cut a
total of:
30 squares 6½˝ x 6½˝
Medium blue dot
4 strips 2˝ x 76˝, pieced from 8
width of fabric (WOF) strips
Blue star print
4 strips 6¼˝ x 80˝, pieced from 8
WOF strips
Red dot
9 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)
sew
1 Referring to Diagram I, stitch
together 2 matching white strips
and 2 matching red strips to make
strip set. Make 30 total. Press in
direction of arrows. Cut 3 segments
6½˝ wide from each.
Cut 30 sets of
3 matching 6½˝
2˝ x 20˝
Make 30 total
Diagram I
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shop
Assorted white prints
(blocks)
Assorted red prints/stripes
(blocks)
Assorted blue prints/stripes
(blocks)
1⅞-2¼
yds. total
1⅞-2¼
yds. total
1¼-1¾
yds. total
Medium blue dot (inner
border)
Blue star print (outer
border)
Red dot (binding)
Backing (piece widthwise)
Batting
⅝ yd.
1⅝ yds.
⅞ yd.
7⅛ yds.
Queen
size
2 Sew 2 rows using 1 assorted blue
square and 3 matching white/red
segments (Diagram II). Sew rows
together to make Flag Block. Make
30 total.
6½˝
✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱
Make 30 total
Diagram II
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts 2
3 Note: Refer to Assembly Diagram
and photos for following steps. Sew
6 rows of 5 blocks each. Stitch rows
together.
4 Sew medium blue strips to sides of
quilt; trim even with top/bottom.
Stitch remaining medium blue strips
to top/bottom; trim even with sides.
Stitch blue star print strips to sides;
trim even. Stitch remaining blue star
strips to top/bottom; trim even.
5 Layer, baste, and quilt. The feature
quilt is machine quilted with red
thread in an allover stars and stripes
pattern. Bind with red dot.
6¼˝ x 80˝
6¼˝ x 80˝
2˝ x 76˝
Assembly Diagram
3
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
harvest table
✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱
shop
Designed by
Jo Beth
Simons
Finished Table
Runner Size
12⅞˝ x 37⅝˝
Number of
Blocks &
Finished Size
1 Appliquéd
Block
8¾˝ x 8¾˝
Note: See end
of pattern for
templates.
Templates are
printed
reversed and
without seam
allowance for
use with paperbacked fusible
web.
Light gold texture (appliqué
background, backing)
Dark green dot (stem/
leaves, piecing)
Orange plaid (pumpkin
details, piecing)
Orange texture (pumpkin,
piecing)
Brown mottle (pumpkin
stem)
Red leaf print, green/red
berry print, and gold large
leaf print (piecing)
Dark green texture (binding)
Batting
1⅜ yds.
1 fat
quarter*
1 fat
quarter*
1 fat
quarter*
3˝ x 4˝
piece
1 fat
quarter*
each
⅜ yd.
19˝ x 44˝
piece
¼ yd.
Paper-backed fusible web
Embroidery floss, tan
*A fat quarter is an 18˝ x 20-22˝ cut of
fabric.
✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱
cut
Note: Cutting instructions for appliqué
shapes are given on templates at end
of pattern. Cut all 10½˝ strips first, then
continue with Step 1 to prepare and cut
appliqué shapes.
Light gold texture
*1 strip 19˝ x 44˝ (backing), cut on
lengthwise grain
1 square 9¼˝ x 9¼˝
Dark green dot, orange plaid, orange
texture, red leaf print, green/red berry
print, and gold large leaf print—cut from
each:
2 strips 2˝ x 10½˝
2 strips 1¾˝ x 10½˝
2 strips 1½˝ x 10½˝
2 strips 1¼˝ x 10½˝
2 strips 1˝ x 10½˝
Dark green texture
3 strips 2½˝ x width of fabric
(binding)
*Cut first.
1
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
sew
1 Trace Templates A-E on paper side of
5 Referring to Assembly Diagram, stitch
paper-backed fusible web. Cut apart, leaving small margin beyond drawn lines.
Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse
to wrong side of appropriate fabrics; cut
apart on drawn lines.
2 Finger-press light gold square in half twice
diagonally; use folds as placement guide.
Referring to Diagram I-A and photo, position template fabrics in alphabetical order.
9¼˝
remaining quarter-square triangles to sides
of block to make table runner center. Sew
2 pieced squares together, watching orientation. Make 2 total and stitch to sides of
table runner center. Sew large triangles to
ends.
E
Asssembly Diagram
C
B
6 Layer, baste, and quilt. Jo Beth hand out-
D
Diagram I-C
A
3 Referring to Diagram II-A, sew 10½˝
strips together in random fabric and stripwidth order to make a pieced rectangle at
least 10¼˝ x 10½˝. Make 4 total. Press
seams all in one direction. Trim to 10˝
square. Cut trimmed squares in half twice
diagonally (Diagram II-B) to make 16
quarter-square triangles.
Make 1
Diagram I-A
Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse
in place. Machine or hand buttonhole
stitch (Diagram I-B) around appliqué.
Note: Jo Beth chose to use a hand
appliqué technique. If you wish to do likewise, skip paper-backed fusible web
line quilted the center square and
appliqué. She added a line of quilting ¼˝
inside 1 seam line on each fabric strip.
Bind with dark green texture.
at least 10¼˝
10½˝
10˝
Make 4 total;
trim to 10˝ square
Diagram II-A
Cut in half
twice diagonally
Diagram II-B
4 Sew 2 triangles together to make pieced
Diagram I-B
Make 1
instructions, and remember to reverse all
templates and to add ¼˝ turn-under
allowance when preparing fabric shapes.
Using tan embroidery floss and stem stitch
(Diagram I-C), embroider leaf veins and
pumpkin curlicue (see templates for
placement). Make 1 Appliquéd Block.
square, watching orientation of fabric strips
(Diagram III-A). Make 4 total. Sew 2 triangles together to make large triangle
(Diagram III-B). Make 2 total.
Make 4 total
Diagram III-A
Make 2 total
Diagram III-B
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts 2
ge t
extu
re
3
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
lat
Tem
p
lat
e
Ora Cut 1 D
nge
pla
id
Tem
p
late
Bro Cut 1 E
wn
mo
ttle
Tem
p
Dar Cut 1 e A
k gr
een
dot
T
(wh empla
t
ole
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)
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stem
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pla
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Tem
pla
te
harvest table templates
illusion
Designed by
Leah Nelson
Finished
Quilt Size
57½˝ x 67½˝
Number of
Blocks and
Finished Size
25 Illusion
Blocks
8˝ x 10˝
plan
This lovely quilt is made with just one
block and two fabrics. Elegant but easy,
this pattern lends itself to an infinite
number of fabric pairings. Take a
Saturday and whip one up for that
perfect Mother’s Day present or
wedding gift!
1
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
cut
shop
Black floral (blocks, outer
border, binding)
Black/multicolor dot (blocks,
inner border)
Backing (piece widthwise)
Batting
3⅛ yds.
2⅜ yds.
3¾ yds.
Twin size
Black floral
*4 strips 7˝ x 60˝, cut on lengthwise
grain
6 strips 2½˝ x width of fabric (WOF)
7 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)
2 strips 4½˝ x WOF
26 strips 2½˝ x 8½˝
Black/multicolor dot
*4 strips 2½˝ x 54˝, cut on lengthwise grain
3 strips 4½˝ x WOF
4 strips 2½˝ x WOF
24 strips 2½˝ x 8½˝
*Cut first.
sew
1 Referring to Diagram I, stitch black
floral 2½˝ x WOF strips to sides of
black/multicolor dot 4½˝ strip.
Make 3. Press in direction of arrows.
Cut into 13 segments 6½˝ wide.
In same manner, sew black dot
2½˝ x WOF strips and black floral
4½˝ strip together to make strip set.
Make 2. Press, and cut into 12 segments 6½˝ wide.
Cut 13
6½˝
2½” x WOF
4½” x WOF
2½” x WOF
Make 3
Cut 12
6½˝
for following steps. Watching placement of blocks, stitch 5 rows of 5
blocks each. Sew rows together.
4 Sew black dot 54˝ strips to sides;
trim even with top and bottom. Sew
remaining black dot strips to top and
bottom; trim even with sides. Stitch
black floral 60˝ strips to sides; trim
even with top/bottom. Stitch
remaining black floral strips to
top/bottom; trim even with sides.
5 Layer, baste, and quilt. Leah
machine quilted an overall continuous leaf and flower design on her
quilt. Bind with black floral.
2½” x WOF
Diagram I
Make 2
2 Stitch 2½˝ x 8½˝ strips to
top/bottom of each segment
(Diagram II) to make Illusion Block.
Make in fabric arrangements and
quantities shown.
2½” x 8½˝
7” x 60˝
2½” x 54˝
2½” x 54˝
3 Note: Refer to Assembly Diagram
4½” x WOF
7” x 60˝
2½” x WOF
Assembly Diagram
Make 13
Diagram II
Make 12
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts 2
Designed by
Ann Weber
Finished Quilt
Size
60½˝ x 60½˝
Number of
Blocks &
Finished Size
4 Double
Nine-patch
Blocks
9˝ x 9˝
16 Nine-patch
Chain
Variation
Blocks
9˝ x 9˝
16 Nine-patch
Chain Blocks
9˝ x 9˝
pesto
presto
1
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
shop
8 assorted black/white prints/textures
(blocks, border)
8 assorted white/black prints/
textures (blocks, border)
Assorted green prints and
textures (blocks)
*Assorted white/black medium prints
and textures (blocks, border)
Black/white print (binding)
Backing
Batting
*See Plan.
⅜ yd. each
⅜ yd. each
1½-1¾ yds. total
⅞-1⅛ yds. total
¾ yd.
4 yds.
Twin size
plan
Vibrant and bold, this quilt adds a fresh feeling to
any room. If you’ve been collecting black and white
fabrics, then you’ll love this stash-smashing pattern.
Notice that Ann chose to substitute several white-onwhite squares for white/black medium print/texture
squares. Do likewise if you wish.
cut
8 assorted black/white prints and textures—cut from
each:
5 strips 1½˝ x width of fabric (WOF)
8 assorted white/black prints and textures—cut from
each:
4 strips 1½˝ x WOF
Assorted green prints and textures—cut a total of:
144 squares 3½˝ x 3½˝
Assorted white/black medium prints and textures*—
cut a total of:
72 squares 3½˝ x 3½˝
Black/white print
7 strips 2½˝ x WOF (binding)
*See Plan.
2 Referring to Diagram I-B, sew 3
sew
1 Sew 2 matching black/white
1½˝ x WOF strips to sides of
white/black 1½˝ x WOF strip
(Diagram I-A). Make 2. Press
seams in direction of arrows. Using
same fabrics, stitch 2 white/black
1½˝ strips to sides of black/white
1½˝ strip. Make 1. Press seams in
direction of arrows. Cut 1½˝ segments in quantities shown. In same
manner, make remaining strip sets
and cut segments.
Cut 46
from each
1½”
set
1½” x WOF
matching segments together to
make nine-patch. Make 184 total.
Make 184
total
Diagram I-B
3 Stitch 3 rows using 5 assorted ninepatches and 4 assorted green 3½˝
squares (Diagram II). Sew rows
together to make Double Ninepatch Block. Make 4 total.
4 Using 4 assorted nine-patches, 4
green squares, and 1 assorted
white/black medium print/texture
square, sew 3 rows (Diagram III).
Stitch rows together to make Ninepatch Chain Variation Block. Make
16 total. In same manner, use 3
nine-patches, 4 green squares, and
2 white/black print squares to make
Nine-patch Chain Block (Diagram
IV). Make 16 total.
3½˝
3½˝
3½˝
Make 8 sets
of 2 matching
Cut 23
from each 1½”
1½” x WOF
Make 8 total
Diagram I-A
Make 4 total
Diagram II
Make 16 total
Diagram III
Make 16 total
Diagram IV
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts 2
5 Stitch 2 assorted nine-patch units to
sides of white/black square to make
pieced strip (Diagram V). Make 24
total.
3½˝
Make 24 total
Diagram V
6 Note: Refer to Assembly Diagram
and photos for following steps.
Watching orientation, stitch 6 rows
of 6 blocks each. Stitch rows together.
7 Sew 6 pieced strips together end to
end. Make 2 and stitch to sides of
quilt. Stitch 6 pieced strips together
to make top/bottom border, adding
1 nine-patch to each end. Make 2
and stitch to top/bottom of quilt.
8 Layer, baste, and quilt. Ann machine
ditch quilted around the nine-patches and squares. Wavy lines are centered on all vertical and horizontal
rows. Bind with black/white print.
Assembly Diagram
3
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
tuck
me in
Designed by
Sue Keck and Sue
Shipman for Friendship
Designs Unique Quilt
Patterns
Machine Quilted by
Sue Shipman
Finished Quilt Size
47½˝ x 56½˝
Number of Blocks &
Finished Size
12 Six-Bar Blocks
9˝ x 9˝
8 Three-Bar Blocks
9˝ x 9˝
✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱
cut
shop
Yellow print
9 strips 2˝ x width of fabric (WOF)
2 strips 3½˝ x WOF
2 strips 2˝ x 45½˝, pieced from
3 WOF strips
2 strips 2˝ x 39½˝
4 squares 3½˝ x 3½˝
Green mottle and pink print–cut from each:
9 strips 2˝ x WOF
1 strip 3½˝ x WOF
Yellow/pink print
9 strips 2˝ x WOF
2 strips 3½˝ x WOF
Yellow print (blocks, borders)
1¼ yds.
Green mottle and pink
print (blocks, pieced
¾ yd.
border)
each
Yellow/pink print (blocks,
pieced border)
⅞ yd.
Backing (piece widthwise)
3⅛ yds.
Batting
Twin size
*Yellow ruffled quilt binding,
2˝ wide
6¼ yds.
*Available at your local fabric store or online
at www.joann.com.
✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱✱
plan
Bright and bold, this quickly-pieced quilt is
finished with a purchased ruffle. Ruffled quilt
binding comes in a limited number of colors,
so choose your binding first and then select
fabrics that complement your ruffle color.
1
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
make the quilt
1 Referring to Diagram I, sew 2˝ x WOF
strips together in quantities and colors
shown to make strip sets. Make 2 of each
combination. Press in direction of arrows.
Cut six 9½˝ Six-Bar Blocks of each color
combination.
2 Repeating stitch, press, and cut
process from Step 1, use 3½˝ x
WOF strips to make Three-Bar
Blocks (Diagram II). Cut 4 of each
color combination.
Cut 4
9½”
3½” x WOF
Cut 4
Make 1
9½”
3½” x WOF
Diagram II
Make 1
3 In same manner, use remaining
2˝ x WOF strips to make strip sets
(Diagram III-A). Cut 58 segments
from each color combination.
Referring to Diagram III-B, sew 2
segments together to make fourpatch. Make 58.
6 Layer, baste, and quilt. The featured
4 Refer to Assembly Diagram for following steps. Stitch 5 rows of 4
blocks each, watching position and
orientation. Sew rows together.
5 Watching orientation, make pieced
side border by stitching together 16
four-patches. Make 2 and sew to
sides of quilt. In same manner,
stitch 13 four-patches together to
make top/bottom pieced border.
Make 2. Sew yellow print 3½˝
squares to ends and stitch to
top/bottom of quilt.
quilt was machine quilted with a
heart meander on the yellow print,
loops on the pink print, flowers on
the yellow/pink patches, and a
meander on the green. Note: Stop
quilting approximately 1-1½˝ from
raw edge to allow space to add the
ruffle.
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts 2
add a ruffled binding
7 Trim ungathered edge of ruffled quilt
binding to ¼˝ from gathering line
(Photo A).
C
F
D
G
E
H
A
8 Open one end of ruffle and fold ¼˝ of
ruffle fabric to inside, leaving straight tape
part of binding unfolded (Photo B). Topstitch near fold to form hem. You may find
it useful to use an awl or similar tool to
control the fold while stitching (Photo C).
B
9 Fold backing and batting under and pin
away from edges of the quilt top. Starting
on any side (not at a corner), and aligning
raw edges, pin or baste ruffled binding to
top (Photo D). Note: Do not stretch
binding around corners. When you reach
the starting point, overlap ruffle by 1¼˝
and trim end (Photo E). Hem as in Step
8. Stitch ends together, using ½˝ seam;
press open (Photo F).
3
McCall’s Quilting Quick Quilts
10 Using ¼˝ seam, sew ruffle to quilt top
(Photo G). Unpin backing and batting
and trim backing even with quilt top.
Trim batting ¼˝ smaller than top on all
sides. Fold ¼˝ under on all sides of quilt
top (ruffle will now be to the outside)
and backing, enclosing batting edge in
backing fold (Photo H); press.
11 Pin layers together and hand stitch folded backing edges to back of ruffle. Add
additional quilting to edges if desired.