Tree Care Resources ()

Step 4 – Remove
twine, clip and
fold back wire
basket and trim
burlap. If left on,
this material can
girdle the tree.
Caring For Your Tree
Note: If planting a
containerized tree remove the entire pot.
Step 5 – Carefully remove soil from the
top of the root ball to
expose the root collar.
Watering - Water as
needed throughout
the season, about 1"
per week. To avoid
over-watering,
remember to check
the wetness of the soil
under the mulch and
adapt your watering
to rainfall and soil
conditions.
Do not encircle
the tree with
wire
threaded
through
a garden
hose – this
can girdle
the tree.
Remove
stakes and
ties within
one year. The
use of trunk
wrap is not recommended.
Proper Pruning –
Mulching - Mulch
planting space with
excavated soil. Water
thoroughly to
eliminate air pockets.
Do not tamp!
Staking –
Step 7 – Celebrate
a job well done …
a properly
planted tree!
The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources provides
equal opportunity in its employment, programs, services,
and functions under an Affirmative Action Plan. If you have
any questions, please write to Equal Opportunity Office,
Department of Interior, Washington, D.C. 20240.
This publication is available in alternative format (large
print, Braille, audio tape etc.) upon request. Please call
608/267-7494 for more information.
AND T
PLE
HE
EO
W I S C ONS I N
F O R EST R Y
SIN
SOURCE
RE
Step 1-7 photos taken by Bob Queen.
Text by Tracy Salisbury, Urban Forester, WDNR and
Genny Fannucchi, Forest Resource Education and
Awareness Specialist, WDNR. Design by Linda Pohlod,
Graphic Artist, WDNR.
IR
For more information, contact the WDNR Forestry Program at
608/267-7494 or your local county UW- Extension office.
Most newly
planted trees
do not need
to be staked.
If staking is
necessary, use
wide webbing
straps. Secure
webbing to
stakes with
heavy gauge wire. Attach materials so that
the tree is allowed to move in the wind.
Bob Queen
Step 6 – Back fill
Less is better,
newly planted
trees need all the
leaves they can
get. Remove only
dead, broken,
diseased or
rubbing branches.
RVICE TO
SE
P
Check to see that the root collar is either
level with or 1”to 2” above finished grade.
Planting a tree too deep can kill it!
improves soil
structure and
aeration, keeps roots
cool and moist,
controls weeds, and
keeps lawnmowers
and weed whips
away from the
trunk. To properly
mulch, apply 2” to
4” of woody mulch
(aged wood chips,
shredded bark or something similar) over the
root zone. Make sure to pull the mulch 3” to
6” away from the trunk to prevent bark rot
and limit rodent feeding.
New Tree
Planting
C E 1911
Division of Forestry
PUB-FR-184 2001
“One who plants
a tree,
plants hope.”
Selecting Your Tree
Things to consider before
planting a tree.
Containerized –
The Hardiness Zone
Trees are classified by hardiness zone. The
hardiness zone is based on the lowest average
winter temperature that a tree can tolerate.
Wisconsin has six different zones ranging
from 3a (coldest) to 5b (warmest). Know your
hardiness zone and choose trees adapted to
that zone.
Plant Hardiness Zones
BAYFIELD
DOUGLAS
ASHLAND
IRON
VILAS
WASHBURN
SAWYER
PRICE
FOREST
ONEIDA
FLORENCE
BURNETT
POLK
MARINETTE
BARRON
RUSK
LINCOLN
There are two types
of containerized
trees: 1) potted, a
bare root tree placed
in a pot with soil and
2) container grown, a
tree that has grown
in a pot for at least a
year. Advantages:
easy to handle and
plant, and stock can
be planted anytime
during the growing season. Disadvantages:
circling roots (if stock left in container too
long) and condition of the root system is not
readily visible.
LANGLADE
OCONTO
TAYLOR
Balled and Burlapped (B & B) – These
CHIPPEWA
ST. CROIX
DUNN
MENOMINEE
MARATHON
Right tree right place
The second step is to look down. Are there
underground utilities, waterlines, or septic
systems in the area? If so, select a different
planting site.
The last step is to look
around. Make sure
you leave plenty of
room for your tree to
grow. That perfect spot
right next to the house
may not be so perfect
when the tree reaches
its mature size.
PIERCE
EAU CLAIRE
SHAWANO
BUFFALO
WOOD
KEWAUNEE
DOOR
PEPIN
TREMPEALEAU
WAUPACA
PORTAGE
OUTAGAMIE
JACKSON
BROWN
JUNEAU
ADAMS
WAUSHARA
WINNEBAGO
MANITOWOC
CALUMET
MONROE
LA CROSSE
MARQUETTE
Temperature (°F)
3a
3b
4a
4b
5a
5b
-35 to -40
-30 to -35
-15 to -20
SHEBOYGAN
FOND DU LAC
VERNON
SAUK
COLUMBIA
DODGE
WASHINGTON
RICHLAND
CRAWFORD
DANE
-25 to -30
-20 to -25
GREEN
LAKE
JEFFERSON
IOWA
WAUKESHA
MILWAUKEE
Where you plant a tree
is very important. The
first step is to look up. If
there are overhead
utilities plant a low
growing tree or select a
different planting site.
Planting a tall growing
tree where it doesn’t have
room to grow can lead to
the unsightly and
unhealthy practice of
topping as shown above.
CLARK
OZAUKEE
Where to Plant
GRANT
GREEN
LAFAYETTE
ROCK
WALWORTH
RACINE
KENOSHA
-10 to -15
Types of Nursery Stock
Bare Root –
Just as the name
implies, these
trees do not
have soil around
the roots.
Advantages: less
expensive,
lightweight,
condition of the
root system is
easily seen and stock recovers quickly after
planting. Disadvantages: limited availability,
roots must be kept moist and stock must be
planted while dormant.
trees are dug with a
ball of soil around
the roots. The ball is
wrapped in burlap
and tied with twine.
The root ball may be
within a wire basket.
Advantages: stock is
available
throughout the
growing season, is
often larger and
provides greater
visual impact.
Disadvantages: expensive, heavy, difficult to
move and plant and often difficult to locate
the root collar
(see photo at
right) and plant
the tree at the
proper depth.
The root collar
is the place
where the trunk
tissue meets the
root tissue.
7 Steps in
Planting Your Tree
IMPORTANT – Call Before You Dig!
Contact Diggers Hotline at
1-800-242-8511
Step 1 – Determine
where the root collar
is located within the
root ball.
Step 2 – Dig a
planting space two to
three times wider
than the root ball,
but no deeper.
To determine proper
planting depth,
measure the distance
from the bottom of
the root ball to the
root collar. To help
the roots grow, widen
the planting site by
tilling or spading around the excavated area.
Step 3 – Before
placing a tree in its
planting space, remove
all tags, ribbons, and
trunk guard. Carefully
roll the tree into its
planting space. To
avoid root damage,
don’t drag or lift the
tree by the trunk.
Gently guide the tree
into the planting hole.
USDA Forest Service
Northeastern Area State and Private Forestry
HOW to Prune Trees
Peter J. Bedker, Joseph G. O’Brien, and Manfred M. Mielke
Illustrations by Julie Martinez, Afton, MN
Introduction
The objective of pruning is to produce strong,
healthy, attractive plants. By understanding
how, when and why to prune, and by following
a few simple principles, this objective can be
achieved.
Why Prune
The main reasons for pruning ornamental and
shade trees include safety, health, and
aesthetics. In addition, pruning can be used to
stimulate fruit production and increase the value
of timber. Pruning for safety (Fig. 1A) involves
removing branches that could fall and cause
injury or property damage, trimming branches
that interfere with lines of sight on streets or
driveways, and removing branches that grow
into utility lines. Safety pruning can be largely
avoided by carefully choosing species that will
not grow beyond the space available to them,
and have strength and form characteristics that
are suited to the site.
Pruning for health (Fig. 1B) involves removing
diseased or insect-infested wood, thinning the
crown to increase airflow and reduce some
pest problems, and removing
Figure 1. Reasons for pruning.
NA-FR-01-95
crossing and rubbing branches. Pruning can
best be used to encourage trees to develop a
strong structure and reduce the likelihood of
damage during severe weather. Removing
broken or damaged limbs encourage wound
closure.
to impose an unnatural form on a tree without a
commitment to constant maintenance.
Pollarding and topiary are extreme examples
of pruning to create a desired, unnatural effect.
Pollarding is the practice of pruning trees
annually to remove all new growth. The
following year, a profusion of new branches is
produced at the ends of the branches. Topiary
involves pruning trees and shrubs into
geometric or animal shapes. Both pollarding
and topiary are specialized applications that
involve pruning to change the natural form of
trees. As topiary demonstrates, given enough
care and attention plants can be pruned into
nearly any form. Yet just as proper pruning
can enhance the form or character of plants,
improper pruning can destroy it.
Pruning for aesthetics (Fig. 1C) involves
enhancing the natural form and character of
trees or stimulating flower production. Pruning
for form can be especially important on opengrown trees that do very little self-pruning.
All woody plants shed branches in response to
shading and competition. Branches that do not
produce enough carbohydrates from
photosynthesis to sustain themselves die and
are eventually shed; the resulting wounds are
sealed by woundwood (callus). Branches that
are poorly attached may be broken off by wind
and accumulation of snow and ice. Branches
removed by such natural forces often result in
large, ragged wounds that rarely seal. Pruning
as a cultural practice can be used to
supplement or replace these natural processes
and increase the strength and longevity of
plants.
Pruning Approaches
Producing strong structure should be the
emphasis when pruning young trees. As trees
mature, the aim of pruning will shift to
maintaining tree structure, form, health and
appearance.
Proper pruning cuts are made at a node, the
point at which one branch or twig attaches to
another. In the spring of the year growth
begins at buds, and twigs grow until a new
node is formed. The length of a branch
between nodes is called an internode.
Trees have many forms, but the most common
types are pyramidal (excurrent) or spherical
(decurrent). Trees with pyramidal crowns,
e.g., most conifers, have a strong central stem
and lateral branches that are more or less
horizontal and do not compete with the central
stem for dominance. Trees with spherical
crowns, e.g., most hardwoods, have many
lateral branches that may compete for
dominance.
To reduce the need for pruning it is best to
consider a tree's natural form. It is very difficult
2
Figure 3. Types of branch unions.
Branches with strong U-shaped angles of
attachment should be retained (Fig 3A).
Branches with narrow, V-shaped angles of
attachment often form included bark and
should be removed (Fig. 3B). Included bark
forms when two branches grow at sharply
acute angles to one another, producing a
wedge of inward-rolled bark between them.
Included bark prevents strong attachment of
branches, often causing a crack at the point
below where the branches meet. Codominant
stems that are approximately the same size and
arise from the same position often form
included bark. Removing some of the lateral
branches from a codominant stem can reduce
its growth enough to allow the other stem to
become dominant.
Figure 2. Crown thinning - branches to be removed are
shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made at the red
lines. No more than one-fourth of the living branches
should be removed at one time.
The most common types of pruning are:
1. Crown Thinning (Fig. 2)
Crown thinning, primarily for hardwoods, is
the selective removal of branches to increase
light penetration and air movement throughout
the crown of a tree. The intent is
to maintain or develop a tree's structure and
form. To avoid unnecessary stress and prevent
excessive production of epicormic sprouts, no
more than one-quarter of the living crown
should be removed at a time. If it is necessary
to remove more, it should be done over
successive years.
Lateral branches should be no more than onehalf to three-quarters of the diameter of the
stem at the point of attachment. Avoid
producing "lion’s tails," tufts of branches and
foliage at the ends of branches, caused by
removing all inner lateral branches and foliage.
Lion’s tails can result in sunscalding, abundant
epicormic sprouts, and weak branch structure
and breakage. Branches that rub or cross
3
2. Crown Raising (Fig. 4)
Crown raising is the practice of removing
branches from the bottom of the crown of a
tree to provide clearance for pedestrians,
vehicles, buildings, lines of site, or to develop a
clear stem for timber production. Also,
removing lower branches on white pines can
prevent blister rust. For street trees the
minimum clearance is often specified by
municipal ordinance. After pruning, the ratio of
the living crown to total tree height should be at
least two-thirds (e.g., a 12 m tree should have
living branches on at least the upper 8 m).
On young trees "temporary" branches may be
retained along the stem to encourage taper and
protect trees from vandalism and sun scald.
Less vigorous shoots should be selected as
temporary branches and should be about 10 to
15 cm apart along the stem. They should be
pruned annually to slow their growth and
should be removed eventually.
Figure 4. Crown raising - branches to be removed are
shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be made where
indicated with red lines. The ratio of live crown to
total tree height should be at least two-thirds.
another branch should be removed.
Conifers that have branches in whorls and
pyramidal crowns rarely need crown thinning
except to restore a dominant leader.
Occasionally, the leader of a tree may be
damaged and multiple branches may become
codominant. Select the strongest leader and
remove competing branches to prevent the
development of codominant stems.
3. Crown Reduction (Fig. 5)
Crown reduction pruning is most often used
when a tree has grown too large for its
permitted space. This method, sometimes
called drop crotch pruning, is preferred to
topping because it results in a more natural
appearance, increases the time before pruning
is needed again, and minimizes stress (see drop
crotch cuts in the next section).
Crown reduction pruning, a method of last
resort, often results in large pruning wounds
to stems that may lead to decay. This method
should never be used on a tree with a
pyramidal growth form. A better long term
solution is to remove the tree and replace it
4
1. Pruning living branches (Fig. 6)
To find the proper place to cut a branch, look
for the branch collar that grows from the stem
tissue at the underside of the base of the branch
(Fig. 6A). On the upper surface, there is
usually a branch bark ridge that runs (more or
less) parallel to the branch angle, along the stem
of the tree. A proper pruning cut does not
damage either the branch bark ridge or the
branch collar.
A proper cut begins just outside the branch
bark ridge and angles down away from the
stem of the tree, avoiding injury to the branch
collar (Fig. 6B). Make the cut as close as
possible to the stem in the branch axil, but
outside the branch bark ridge, so that stem
tissue is not injured and the wound can seal in
the shortest time possible. If the cut is too far
from the stem, leaving a branch stub, the
branch tissue usually dies and woundwood
forms from the stem tissue. Wound closure is
delayed because the woundwood must seal
over the stub that was left.
Figure 5. Crown reduction - branches to be
removed are shaded in blue; pruning cuts should be
made where indicated with red lines. To prevent
branch dieback, cuts should be made at lateral
branches that are at least one-third the diameter of
the stem at their union.
The quality of pruning cuts can be evaluated by
examining pruning wounds after one growing
season. A concentric ring of woundwood will
form from proper pruning cuts (Fig. 6B).
Flush cuts made inside the branch bark ridge
or branch collar, result in pronounced
development of woundwood on the sides of the
pruning wounds with very little woundwood
forming on the top or bottom (Fig. 7D). As
described above, stub cuts result in the death of
the remaining branch and woundwood forms
around the base from stem tissues.
When pruning small branches with hand
pruners, make sure the tools are sharp enough
with a tree that will not grow beyond the
available space.
Pruning Cuts
Pruning cuts should be made so that only
branch tissue is removed and stem tissue is not
damaged. At the point where the branch
attaches to the stem, branch and stem tissues
remain separate, but are contiguous. If only
branch tissues are cut when pruning, the stem
tissues of the tree will probably not become
decayed, and the wound will seal more
effectively.
5
branch collar. This cut will prevent a
falling branch from tearing the stem
tissue as it pulls away from the tree.
2. The second cut should be outside the
first cut, all the way through the branch,
leaving a short stub.
3. The stub is then cut just outside the
branch bark ridge/branch collar,
completing the operation.
2. Pruning dead branches (Fig. 6)
Prune dead branches in much the same way as
live branches. Making the correct cut is usually
easy because the branch collar and the branch
bark ridge, can be distinguished from the dead
branch, because they continue to grow (Fig.
6A). Make the pruning cut just outside of the
ring of woundwood tissue that has formed,
being careful not to cause unnecessary injury
(Fig. 6C). Large dead branches should be
supported with one hand or cut with the threestep method, just as live branches. Cutting large
living branches with the three step method is
more critical because of the greater likelihood
of bark ripping.
3. Drop Crotch Cuts (Fig. 6D)
Figure 6. Pruning cuts
A proper cut begins just above the branch bark
ridge and extends through the stem parallel to
the branch bark ridge. Usually, the stem being
removed is too large to be supported with one
hand, so the three cut method should be used.
to cut the branches cleanly without tearing.
Branches large enough to require saws should
be supported with one hand while the cuts are
made. If the branch is too large to support,
make a three-step pruning cut to prevent bark
ripping (Fig. 6C).
1. With the first cut, make a notch on the
side of the stem away from the branch
to be retained, well above the branch
crotch.
1. The first cut is a shallow notch made on
the underside of the branch, outside the
6
2. Begin the second cut inside the branch
crotch, staying well above the branch
bark ridge, and cut through the stem
above the notch.
3. Cut the remaining stub just inside the
branch bark ridge through the stem
parallel to the branch bark ridge.
To prevent the abundant growth of epicormic
sprouts on the stem below the cut, or dieback
of the stem to a lower lateral branch, make the
cut at a lateral branch that is at least one-third
of the diameter of the stem at their union.
Pruning Practices That Harm
Trees
Topping and tipping (Fig. 7A, 7B) are pruning
practices that harm trees and should not be
used. Crown reduction pruning is the preferred
method to reduce the size or height of the
crown of a tree, but is rarely needed and should
be used infrequently.
Topping, the pruning of large upright branches
between nodes, is sometimes done to reduce
the height of a tree (Fig. 7A). Tipping is a
practice of cutting lateral branches between
nodes (Fig. 7B) to reduce crown width.
These practices invariably result in the
development of epicormic sprouts, or in the
death of the cut branch back to the next lateral
branch below. These epicormic sprouts are
weakly attached to the stem and eventually will
be supported by a decaying branch.
stem tissues and can result in decay (Fig. 7D).
Stub cuts delay wound closure and can
provide entry to canker fungi that kill the
cambium, delaying or preventing woundwood
formation (Fig. 7E).
Improper pruning cuts cause unnecessary injury
and bark ripping (Fig. 7C). Flush cuts injure
7
including many varieties of crabapple,
hawthorn, pear, mountain ash,
flowering quince and pyracantha,
should be pruned during the dormant
season. Check with your county
extension agent or a horticulturist for
additional information.
When to Prune
Conifers may be pruned any time of year, but
pruning during the dormant season may
minimize sap and resin flow from cut branches.
Hardwood trees and shrubs without showy
flowers: prune in the dormant season to easily
visualize the structure of the tree, to maximize
wound closure in the growing season after
pruning, to reduce the chance of transmitting
disease, and to discourage excessive sap flow
from wounds. Recent wounds and the chemical
scents they emit can actually attract insects that
spread tree disease. In particular, wounded
elm wood is known to attract bark beetles that
harbor spores of the Dutch elm disease fungus,
and open wounds on oaks are known to attract
beetles that spread the oak wilt fungus. Take
care to prune these trees during the correct
time of year to prevent spread of these fatal
diseases. Contact your local tree disease
specialist to find out when to prune these tree
species in your area. Usually, the best time is
during the late fall and winter.
? Trees and shrubs that flower in the
summer or fall always should be pruned
during the dormant season (flower buds
will form on new twigs during the next
growing season, and the flowers will
flush normally).
Dead branches: can be removed any time of
the year.
Pruning Tools
Proper tools are essential for satisfactory
pruning (Fig.6). The choice of which tool to
use depends largely on the size of branches to
be pruned and the amount of pruning to be
done. If possible, test a tool before you buy it
to ensure it suits your specific needs. As with
most things, higher quality often equates to
higher cost.
Flowering trees and shrubs: these should also
be pruned during the dormant season for the
same reasons stated above; however, to
preserve the current year's flower crop, prune
according to the following schedule:
Generally speaking, the smaller a branch is
when pruned, the sooner the wound created
will seal. Hand pruners are used to prune small
branches (under 2.5 cm diameter) and many
different kinds are available. Hand pruners can
be grouped into by-pass or anvil styles based
on the blade configuration. Anvil style pruners
have a straight blade that cuts the branch
against a small anvil or block as the handles are
squeezed. By-pass pruners use a curved cutting
blade that slides past a broader lower blade,
much like a scissors. To prevent unnecessary
tearing or crushing of tissues, it is best to use a
? Trees and shrubs that flower in early
spring (redbud, dogwood, etc.) should
be pruned immediately after flowering
(flower buds arise the year before they
flush, and will form on the new growth).
? Many flowering trees are susceptible to
fireblight, a bacterial disease that can be
spread by pruning. These trees,
8
by-pass style pruner. Left- or right-handed
types can be purchased.
lopping shears, and pole pruners should be
periodically sharpened with a sharpening stone.
Replacement blades are available for many
styles. Pruning saws should be professionally
sharpened or periodically replaced. To reduce
cost, many styles have replaceable blades.
Slightly larger branches that cannot be cut with
a hand pruner may be cut with small pruning
saws (up to 10 cm) or lopping shears (up to 7
cm diameter) with larger cutting surfaces and
greater leverage. Lopping shears are also
available in by-pass and anvil styles.
Tools should be clean and sanitized as well as
sharp. Although sanitizing tools may be
inconvenient and seldom practiced, doing so
may prevent the spread of disease from
infected to healthy trees on contaminated tools.
Tools become contaminated when they come
into contact with fungi, bacteria, viruses and
other microorganisms that cause disease in
trees. Most pathogens need some way of
entering the tree to cause disease, and fresh
wounds are perfect places for infections to
begin. Microorganisms on tool surfaces are
easily introduced into susceptible trees when
subsequent cuts are made. The need for
sanitizing tools can be greatly reduced by
pruning during the dormant season.
For branches too large to be cut with a hand
pruner or lopping shears, pruning saws must be
used. Pruning saws differ greatly in handle
styles, the length and shape of the blade, and
the layout and type of teeth. Most have
tempered metal blades that retain their
sharpness for many pruning cuts. Unlike most
other saws, pruning saws are often designed to
cut on the "pull-stroke."
Chain saws are preferred when pruning
branches larger than about 10 cm. Chainsaws
should be used only by qualified individuals. To
avoid the need to cut branches greater than 10
cm diameter, prune when branches are small.
If sanitizing is necessary it should be practiced
as follows: Before each branch is cut, sanitize
pruning tools with either 70% denatured
alcohol, or with liquid household bleach diluted
1 to 9 with water (1 part bleach, 9 parts
water). Tools should be immersed in the
solution, preferably for 1-2 minutes, and wood
particles should be wiped from all cutting
surfaces. Bleach is corrosive to metal surfaces,
so tools should be thoroughly cleaned with
soap and water after each use.
Pole pruners must be used to cut branches
beyond reach. Generally, pruning heads can cut
branches up to 4.4 cm diameter and are
available in the by-pass and anvil styles. Once
again, the by-pass type is preferred. For
cutting larger branches, saw blades can be
fastened directly to the pruning head, or a
separate saw head can be purchased. Because
of the danger of electrocution, pole pruners
should not be used near utility lines except by
qualified utility line clearance personnel.
To ensure that satisfactory cuts are made and
to reduce fatigue, keep your pruning tools sharp
and in good working condition. Hand pruners,
9
General
Treating wounds
? Prune first for safety, next for health,
Tree sap, gums, and resins are the natural
means by which trees combat invasion by
pathogens. Although unsightly, sap flow from
pruning wounds is not generally harmful;
however, excessive "bleeding" can weaken
trees.
and finally for aesthetics.
? Never prune trees that are touching or
near utility lines; instead consult your
local utility company.
? Avoid pruning trees when you might
increase susceptibility to important
pests (e.g. in areas where oak wilt
exists, avoid pruning oaks in the spring
and early summer; prune trees
susceptible to fireblight only during the
dormant season).
When oaks or elms are wounded during a
critical time of year (usually spring for oaks, or
throughout the growing season for elms) -either from storms, other unforeseen
mechanical wounds, or from necessary branch
removals -- some type of wound dressing
should be applied to the wound. Do this
immediately after the wound is created. In most
other instances, wound dressings are
unnecessary, and may even be detrimental.
Wound dressings will not stop decay or cure
infectious diseases. They may actually interfere
with the protective benefits of tree gums and
resins, and prevent wound surfaces from
closing as quickly as they might under natural
conditions. The only benefit of wound
dressings is to prevent introduction of
pathogens in the specific cases of Dutch elm
disease and oak wilt.
? Use the following decision guide for
size of branches to be removed: 1)
under 5 cm diameter - go ahead, 2)
between 5 and 10 cm diameter - think
twice, and 3) greater than 10 cm
diameter - have a good reason.
Crown Thinning
? Assess how a tree will be pruned from
the top down.
? Favor branches with strong, U-shaped
angles of attachment. Remove branches
with weak, V-shaped angles of
attachment and/or included bark.
Pruning Guidelines
? Ideally, lateral branches should be
To encourage the development of a strong,
healthy tree, consider the following guidelines
when pruning.
evenly spaced on the main stem of
young trees.
? Remove any branches that rub or cross
another branch.
? Make sure that lateral branches are no
more than one-half to three-quarters of
the diameter of the stem to discourage
the development of co-dominant stems.
10
? Do not remove more than one-quarter
provide clearance for pedestrians, vehicles,
buildings, lines of sight, and vistas by removing
lower branches.
of the living crown of a tree at one time.
If it is necessary to remove more, do it
over successive years.
Crown Reduction Pruning: a method of
pruning used to reduce the height of a tree.
Branches are cut back to laterals that are at
least one-third the diameter of the limb being
removed.
Crown Raising
? Always maintain live branches on at
least two-thirds of a tree's total height.
Removing too many lower branches
will hinder the development of a strong
stem.
Crown Thinning: a method of pruning to
increase light penetration and air movement
through the crown of a tree by selective
removal of branches.
? Remove basal sprouts and vigorous
epicormic sprouts.
Callus: see woundwood.
Crown Reduction
Decurrent: a major tree form resulting from
weak apical control. Trees with this form have
several to many lateral branches that compete
with the central stem for dominance resulting in
a spherical or globose crown. Most hardwood
trees have decurrent forms.
? Use crown reduction pruning only when
absolutely necessary. Make the
pruning cut at a lateral branch that is at
least one-third the diameter of the stem
to be removed.
Epicormic Sprout: a shoot that arises from
latent or adventitious buds; also know as water
sprouts that occur for on stems and branches
and suckers that are produced from the base of
trees. In older wood, epicormic shoots often
result from severe defoliation or radical pruning.
? If it is necessary to remove more than
half of the foliage from a branch,
remove the entire branch.
Glossary
Branch Axil: the angle formed where a branch
joins another branch or stem of a woody plant.
Excurrent: a major tree form resulting from
strong apical control. Trees with this form have
a strong central stem and pyramidal shape.
Lateral branches rarely compete for
dominance. Most conifers and a few
hardwoods, such as sweetgum and tuliptree,
have excurrent forms.
Branch Bark Ridge: a ridge of bark that
forms in a branch crotch and partially around
the stem resulting from the growth of the stem
and branch tissues against one another.
Branch Collar: a "shoulder" or bulge formed
at the base of a branch by the annual
production of overlapping layers of branch and
stem tissues.
Flush Cuts: pruning cuts that originate inside
the branch bark ridge or the branch collar,
causing unnecessary injury to stem tissues.
Crown Raising: a method of pruning to
Included Bark: bark enclosed between
11
branches with narrow angles of attachment,
forming a wedge between the branches.
Fazio, J. R. ed. 1992. Don't top trees. Tree
City USA Bulletin No. 8. Nebraska City, NE:
The National Arbor Day Foundation.
Pollarding: the annual removal of all of the
previous year's growth, resulting in a flush of
slender shoots and branches each spring.
Stub Cuts: pruning cuts made too far outside
the branch bark ridge or branch collar, that
leave branch tissue attached to the stem.
Harris, R.W. 1994. Clarifying certain pruning
terminology: thinning, heading, pollarding.
Journal of Arboriculture 20:50-54.
ISA Performance Guidelines Committee. 1994.
Tree-pruning guidelines. Savoy, IL:
International Society of Arboriculture.
Tipping: a poor maintenance practice used to
control the size of tree crowns; involves the
cutting of branches at right angles leaving long
stubs.
Ryan, H.D.P. III. 1994. Arboricultural pruning
methodologies. Arborist News Volume
3(4):33-38.
Topping: a poor maintenance practice often
used to control the size of trees; involves the
indiscriminate cutting of branches and stems at
right angles leaving long stubs. Synonyms
include rounding-over, heading-back,
dehorning, capping and hat-racking. Topping is
often improperly referred to as pollarding.
Shigo, A. 1991. Modern arboriculture.
Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees, Associates.
Shigo, A. 1989. Tree pruning: a worldwide
photo guide. Durham, NH: Shigo & Trees,
Associates.
Topiary: the pruning and training of a plant
into a desired geometric or animal shape.
Woundwood: lignified, differentiated tissues
produced on woody plants as a response to
wounding (also known as callus tissue).
References
ANSI Z133.1. 1994. Safety standards.
American national standard for tree care
operators. Washington, DC: American
National Standards Institute.
“How to Prune Trees” was written to help
people properly prune the trees they care
about. If you doubt your ability to safely
prune large trees, please hire a professional
arborist. Information in this publication can
be used to interview and hire a competent
arborist.
ANSI A300. 1995. Standard practices for
tree, shrub, and other woody plant
maintenance. Washington, DC: American
National Standards Institute.
12
T
rees
Shrubs
Sh
ubs &
seasonal care
for
in northern u.s. climates
SPRING
MAINTAIN
INSTALL
buds
swell
SUMMER
leaves
emerge
leaves
full size
AUTUMN
leaves
turn
WINTER
leaves
drop
soil
frozen
plant
transplant
Some plants transplant better
in late spring & summer.
This chart highlights the
Check with your local nursery.
most favorable timing for the
water
It is essential to
water during summer
and drought periods.
mulch
Maintain a ring of mulch (2”- 4” deep)
around the tree but not against the trunk.
listed tree care activities.
Late Autumn watering
reduces winter
damage.
planting, fertilizing
PRUNING
and pruning should be
evergreen
branches
Sap runs but does not affect the health of the tree.
avoided during periods
of weather extremes
evergreen
shrub
shearing
deciduous
branches
(e.g., drought or high winds)
Oak, mountainash, hawthorn, and fruit trees are
susceptible to disease when pruned during this period.
*
MONITOR
PROTECT
GROWTH
Check with State University Diagnostic Clinic.
staking/
guying
stem
protection
branches
& foliage
health
Certified Arborists, visit
Apply low rates of nitrogen
if necessary and other
nutrients based on soil test
recommendations.†
Mulch or plastic guards may be placed around
remove
protection. stems during growing season to prevent damage
from lawn mowers or trimming equipment.
www.treesaregood.com.
Apply if trunks need protection,
encircle with hardware cloth,
3”from the trunk.
Multi-stemmed plants can be bound
with burlap or twine to prevent
breakage from snow and ice loads.
remove
protection.
Check for animal and
winter damage.
Check for insects & disease.
Consult an ISA Certified
Arborist for treatment.*
safety
including a list of ISA
Apply only when tree won’t stand on its own.
Check to make sure trunk is not being injured from attachments.
Loosen if necessary.
fertilizing
Consult an ISA Certified Arborist for treatment.*
lab for a basic soil test.
Local labs may be found online,
through a local nursery or
consult a Certified Arborist.
not advised
Produced by
Rebecca Koetter, Research Assistant
Funded in part by the
Gary R. Johnson, Professor
USDA Forest Service --
Dave Hanson, Research Specialist
Northeastern Area
Designed & Digitally Illustrated by Andrew Rose, www.handeye.us
Contact a soil testing
Consult an ISA Certified
Arborist for treatment.*
Consult an ISA Certified Arborist for treatment.*
depends on
situation
†
Check for animal and
winter damage.
Monitor year round, but especially after storms.
preferred
For more information
Your Tree's Trouble May Be You!
FOREST SERVICE, U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE
Agriculture Information Bulletin No. 372
Issued September 1974
Please be advised that this is an older publication
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Your Tree's Trouble May Be You!
TREES
are some of our best friends
TREES
provide shade, beauty,
homes for wildlife, wood products, paper
and many other
BENEFITS.
TREES
provide these benefits
ONLY
as long as they are
HEALTHY.
"Your Tree's Trouble May Be You!" is a companion to "A Tree Hurts, Too". They are part of a
Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture program designed to provide information on the
wise use and care of trees...some of our most versatile and renewable natural resources.
This booklet was prepared by tree specialists in the Northeastern Area, State and Private Forestry
from information developed by research scientists at the Northeastern Forest Experiment Station.
Both units are headquartered in Upper Darby, Pennsylvania.
Contents:
YOUR TREE'S TROUBLE MAY BE YOU!
BUILDING AND ROAD CONSTRUCTION INJURES TREES
FLOODING INJURES TREES
SOIL COMPACTION INJURES TREES
AIR POLLUTION INJURES TREES
LAWN AND GARDEN EQUIPMENT INJURES TREES
LAWN AND GARDEN CHEMICALS INJURE TREES
DEICING SALT INJURES TREES
WOUNDS INJURE TREES
IMPROPER PRUNING INJURES TREES
IMPROPER PLANTING INJURES TREES
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Your Tree's Trouble May Be You!
WOODSY
SAYS:
Trees are for our use--not abuse.
Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture
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Your Tree's Trouble May Be You
YOUR TREE'S TROUBLE MAY BE YOU!
People spend much time, effort and money to plant and maintain trees around their homes,
businesses, public buildings and parks. People are attracted by the scenic and recreational
qualities of forest environments. Yet people who love trees the most may unknowingly cause
them injury, directly or indirectly, as a result of:
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Building and road construction
Flooding
Soil compaction
Air pollution
Lawn and garden equipment
Lawn and garden chemicals
Deicing salt
Wounds
Improper pruning
Improper planting
These are major people-caused tree injuries. Be aware of them and of some prevention and
treatment methods that can be used to help your trees be healthy.
Arborists, nurserymen, state service foresters, extension foresters and municipal foresters can
provide more information and/or technical assistance.
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Your Tree's Trouble May Be You
Healthy trees add beauty to our homes and
parks. They make our world a more pleasant
place in which to live.
Healthy trees help cool and clean the air,
deaden sound, provide shade and add beauty to
our urban environments.
Unhealthy trees endanger and detract from our
homes and parks. They make our world a less
pleasant place in which to live.
Unhealthy trees do not enhance and protect our urban environments.
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Building and Road Construction Injures Trees
BUILDING AND ROAD CONSTRUCTION INJURES TREES
Wooded area before house construction.
Trees, like people, are easily disturbed by changes in their surroundings. Construction of buildings and roads is a major cause of tree injury.
Symptoms of tree disease may not be immediately visible. Sometimes several years of decline
occur between injury and death. Trees are often injured by earthmoving equipment and by
changes in ground level. Roots can be injured when heavy equipment passes over them. Ditching
along highways and in building projects can also injure trees. Root injury- not trunk injuryduring construction is most likely to kill trees.
The addition of asphalt, concrete, bricks, or more than a few inches of soil around trees will
change the amount of water and oxygen available to their roots. Trees with roots so covered have
trouble "breathing" and may die within 3 to 5 years. The construction of a small well around the
trunk of an established tree may not always protect it.
A young tree planted in a large well can adapt to living in a well and will usually grow to
maturity. When young trees are to be planted within large paved areas- such as parking lots or
pedestrian plazas- they should be planted in large wells that have been carefully planned and
constructed. Trees should not be planted until all construction has been completed.
Prevent damage to trees near construction sites by fencing or otherwise protecting them from
earthmoving equipment. Caution construction workers to be very careful when working close to
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Building and Road Construction Injures Trees
trees. If possible, avoid adding excessive soil or impervious materials within the drip line (entire
area under branches) of a tree. A retaining wall outside the drip line will often eliminate
indiscriminate fill over roots.
1. Excessive landfill
2. Tree planted too close
to driveway
3. Branch wound
4. Trunk wound
5. Root wound
The same wooded area during house construction.
Careless construction can severely damage or destroy
trees and other ground cover.
1. Buried injured roots
2. Original ground line
Landfills around trees cause root injury and restrict the
flow of air and water within the soil.
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Building and Road Construction Injures Trees
1. Original ground line
2. Buried injured roots
3. Root injured during
construction
Landfills injure established trees even when wells are
constructed.
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Flooding Injures Trees
FLOODING INJURES TREES
Changes in normal drainage patterns as a result of construction may cause localized flooding.
Prolonged flooding or inundation may kill trees, especially during the growing season. Flooding
has an effect similar to that caused by covering roots with excess soil, asphalt, or concrete: the
roots are deprived of oxygen. Low areas where flooding may occur are poor sites for some
species of trees, while other trees thrive in wet locations.
Avoid any change in normal drainage patterns that will cause water to back up or pool over tree
roots.
These trees are relatively tolerant of flooding and can be planted in low, wet places:
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ASH
BLACK GUM
COTTONWOOD
ELM
LOBLOLLY PINE
OVERCUP OAK
RED MAPLE
RIVER BIRCH
SILVER MAPLE
SWEETGUM
SYCAMORE
WHITE CEDAR
WILLOWS
These trees are relatively intolerant of flooding and should not be planted in low,
wet places:
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HEMLOCK
PAPER BIRCH
PONDEROSA PINE
RED CEDAR
RED PINE
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Flooding Injures Trees
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WHITE PINE
WHITE SPRUCE
1 Healthy trees
2. Dying trees
3. Dead trees
4. Flooded area
Prolonged flooding may kill trees.
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Soil compaction Injures Trees
SOIL COMPACTION INJURES TREES
Soil compaction around trees is often caused by people, pets, bicycles and cars in parks and other
recreation areas as well as in heavily used areas surrounding public buildings, business centers
and multi-unit residential dwellings. Injured, exposed tree roots are hazardous to trees and people.
Compacted soil cuts off water and oxygen to tree roots. Dying leaves on mature trees and dying
branches on young trees may indicate compaction injury. Pedestrian and other traffic patterns
should be designed to help prevent soil compaction. Public cooperation and respect for trees are
also needed.
1. Injured, exposed roots
2. Poorly healed branch stub
3. Compacted soil
4. Dead branch tips
5. Dead tree top: a hazard
Soil compaction near a major public building.
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Soil compaction Injures Trees
1. Dying leaves
2. Compacted soil and root
wounds
3. Path too close to established
tree
4. Dying branches
5. Young tree planted too close
to path
Soil compaction near an apartment complex.
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Air Pollution Injures Trees
AIR POLLUTION INJURES TREES
The main gaseous air pollutants that injure trees are sulfur dioxide, fluorides, and oxidants.
Sulfur dioxide comes mostly from burning coal and oil to generate electricity. It also is produced
in smelting ores that contain sulfur and in manufacturing sulfur products.
Fluorides are produced by processing aluminum ore, manufacturing phosphate fertilizer and
processing stone.
The oxidants are formed in the atmosphere from chemical reactions powered by sunlight. The
oxidants that cause the most tree damage are ozone and PAN (Peroxyl Acetyl Nitrate). They are
produced mostly from industrial and auto emissions, and they are common components of smog.
Low concentrations of ozone also occur naturally in the atmosphere.
The most serious forms of air pollution are difficult to prevent without a community effort.
Contact local environmental agencies and citizen groups to offer your help. Minimize the air
pollution you produce by keeping your automobiles tuned, limiting your use of internal
combustion engines, and obeying local open-burning ordinances.
Air pollution damage to trees is most common
around large cities, but it can also be seen in rural
areas.
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Air Pollution Injures Trees
These trees are relatively tolerant to common air pollutants:
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ARBORVITAE
BOXELDER
DOUGLAS-FIR
ENGLISH OAK
MAGNOLIA
NORWAY MAPLE
RED OAK
WHITE DOGWOOD
WHITE SPRUCE
These trees are relatively intolerant to common air pollutants:
●
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●
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AMERICAN ELM
CATALPA
JACK PINE
LARCH
LOMBARDY POPLAR
PONDEROSA PINE
QUAKING ASPEN
VIRGINIA PINE
WHITE PINE
WILLOW
Healthy pine needles.
Pollution-injured pine needles.
Green and brown bands on pine
needles indicate air pollution
damage.
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Air Pollution Injures Trees
Healthy maple leaves.
Pollution-injured maple leaves.
Discoloration along the midrib of
hardwood leaves may indicate air
pollution damage.
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Lawn and Garden...
LAWN AND GARDEN EQUIPMENT INJURES TREES
Lawnmowers, snowplows, and other lawn and garden equipment can severely injure trunks,
branches and roots of trees. These injuries van be as serious as those caused by heavy
construction equipment.
Be careful not to run into your trees with lawn and garden equipment.
To prevent accidentally injuring young trees with lawn mowers, grass should be kept away from
the tree trunks. You may wish to keep the grass pulled or to remove the sod. Don't use chemicals
to kill the grass!
LAWN AND GARDEN CHEMICALS INJURE TREES
Fertilizers and pesticides can either help or harm your trees. It all depends upon how and where
you use them. Beware of the philosophy that "if a little is good, a lot will be better".
Herbicides (weed killers) can kill your trees. Even when herbicides are properly applied the
chemicals may drift through the air and injure non-target plants. Avoid excessive use of
commercial fertilizer-herbicide mixtures near trees, because toxic amounts of herbicides may be
absorbed by tree roots. Recently transplanted trees are especially susceptible to herbicide injury.
Be careful in your choice of lawn and garden chemicals, and use them ONLY in the precise
manner recommended on the label.
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Deicing Salt Injures Trees
DEICING SALT INJURES TREES
Deicing compounds used on highways, driveways and sidewalks in winter contain sodium
chloride (table salt) and/or calcium chloride. These chemicals are toxic to trees. Roadside trees
are injured when salt is absorbed by their foliage and roots. Avoid or minimize the use of salt
around your trees.
1. Mature sugar maple too
close to road
2. Advanced decay in roadside
trees is a safety hazard
3. Young white pine too close
to road
4. Salt-injured red pine
5. Dying branches as a result
of salt injury
Salt spray from roads can seriously injure trees. Dying
branches on roadside trees are early signs of salt injury.
Salt injury on pine needles...and maple leaves.
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Deicing Salt Injures Trees
Uniform browning of needles
indicates salt injury.
Dry, brittle leaf edges
often indicate salt injury.
These trees are relatively tolerant of salt spray from traffic or saltwater runoff:
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AUSTRIAN PINE
BIG TOOTH ASPEN
BIRCHES
BLACK CHERRY
BLACK LOCUST
QUAKING ASPEN
RED CEDAR
RED OAK
RUSSIAN OLIVE
WHITE ASH
WHITE OAK
WHITE SPRUCE
YEWS
These trees are relatively intolerant of salt spray from traffic or saltwater runoff:
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BASSWOOD
DOUGLAS-FIR
HEMLOCK
IRONWOOD
PONDEROSA PINE
RED MAPLE
RED PINE
SHAGBARK HICKORY
SPECKLED ALDER
SUGAR MAPLE
WHITE PINE
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Wounds Injure Trees
WOUNDS INJURE TREES
Vandalism injures trees and mars their beauty.
Wounds commonly occur on the exposed parts of trunks and roots. Although tree wounds are
often caused by the forces of nature, people are also responsible for many root injuries, bark
injuries and broken limbs. Unfortunately, some people enjoy carving designs and words into the
bark of living trees. These carvings mar the tree's beauty and open its trunk to invasion by a
variety of microorganisms. Trash fires or campfires built against the trunk of a tree cause injury
and may kill the tree.
Improperly treated wounds are often followed by decay. Wounds should be treated by removing
dead and torn bark tissues and by shaping the wound into a vertical oval. This will help the tree to
quickly heal its wounds. Commercial tree dressings such as orange shellac or those with an
asphalt base can be painted over the treated wound. However, no dressing will always prevent
decay.
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Wounds Injure Trees
1. Deep trunk wound on cherry tree
2. Trim away loose bark around
wound. Shape wound. Make a
clean edge between vigorous
bark and exposed wood. Use
a sharp knife.
3. Wound is healing through callus
formation. Help tree maintain its
vigor and protect it from further
injury.
Properly cleaned and shaped wounds help prevent tree
decay.
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Improper Pruning Injures Trees
IMPROPER PRUNING INJURES TREES
Improper pruning is often followed by disease or decay. Pruning cuts should be made flush to the
trunk or connecting branch. Branch stubs permit invasion by decay-producing organisms.
Remove injured or diseased branches before they die.
1. Dead branch
2. Dying branch
3. Stubs too long
4. Serious wound from improper
pruning
5. Long stubs delay healing
6. All wounds invite decay
Improper pruning does more harm than good.
1. Dead branch
2. Dying branch
3. Properly pruned dead branch
PROPER PRUNING STEPS
4. Undercut to prevent limb
breakage
5. Cut down to first cut and
remove branch
6. Trim branch stub flush with trunk
7. Branch stubs are healing
through callus formation
Proper pruning helps assure long-lived, healthy trees.
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Improper Planting Injures Trees
IMPROPER PLANTING INJURES TREES
Correct planting techniques will help insure the survival of newly planted trees. Consult an
arborist, nurseryman, state service forester, extension forester, or municipal forester about
specific planting guides. Here are some basic guides for successful tree planting:
1. Plant during early spring or fall depending on the best time for the particular tree species.
2. Dig planting holes wide and deep enough to accommodate bare-rooted trees without
cramping the roots. Holes for balled root stock should be at least 12 inches wider than the
diameter of the ball.
3. Remove any plastic wrapping from balled root stock. Burlap wrapping should be loosened.
Prevent tree roots from drying out before planting; protect them from sun and wind.
4. After placing the tree in the hole, spread the roots evenly and avoid damaging them. Tamp
and water the soil carefully around the roots. While filling the hole with topsoil, cover the
roots to the depth they were covered at the nursery.
5. Water immediately after planting, and continue to water periodically for 2 years. Water
heavily near the roots about once a week fro several hours during the growing season and
well into the fall. The soil should be saturated but not waterlogged (flooded).
6. Do not fertilize the tree at planting time because the fertilizer may "burn" the roots.
Recommended fertilization practices vary greatly depending upon the kind of tree, local
soil conditions and time of year.
When planting trees more than 3 feet tall, additional precautions are advisable. To help support
the trees until their roots become firmly established, rubber-wrapped guy wires can be connected
from the tree to supporting poles. These supports should be left in place for 1 to 2 years. Damage
from sunscald (killing of tender bark by direct sunlight) and minor wounds can be prevented by
wrapping bare trunks with burlap or creped kraft paper. Chicken wire supported by stakes around
the tree will help prevent animal damage.
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Improper Planting Injures Trees
1. Tender bark exposed to
sun
2. No supports provided
3. Roots exposed; tree
planted too shallow
4. Sod replaced too close
to trunk
5. Tree planted too deep
6. Roots crowded; poorly
prepared hole
7. No loose fill or humus in
bottom of hole
8. String on burlap ball not
loosened
Improperly planted trees frequently die.
1. Rubber protective
covers on wires
2. Wrapping for protection from the sun
3. Supports
4. Mulch rather than sod
5. String on burlap ball loosened
6. Properly prepared hole
7. Humus or loose fill
Properly planted trees provide many benefits for you and others.
Remember, PREVENTION is the best SOLUTION to tree disease PROBLEMS. YOU
can PREVENT tree injury and disease by AWARENESS, CONCERN, and POSITIVE
ACTION. HELP YOUR TREES BE HEALTHY TREES. DON'T LET YOUR
TREE'S TROUBLE BE YOU!
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Why Leaves Change Color - Fact Sheet, autumn colors
United States
Department of
Agriculture
Forest Service
Northeastern Area
Fact Sheet
SP-01-01
Autumn in the Northeast and Midwest can be a spectacular
season of bright blue skies, cool temperatures, and brilliant
leaf color. Over 170 million acres of land in the twenty
Northeastern states are covered with trees and forests,
giving us plenty of opportunity to enjoy fall color. These
forests are a mix of conifers (cone-bearing trees such as
pine, spruce, and hemlock) and deciduous trees (trees that
lose their leaves each year such as maple, oak, birch, and
aspen.)
You may have noticed that leaf color varies every year. Leaf
color is most spectacular when the right combination of
factors are present. Scientists don't fully understand all of
the complicated interactions that cause the best display of
leaf color, but they do know that leaf pigments, length of
night, the type of tree, genetic variation, and the weather
all play a role.
Where Do Leaves Get Their Autumn Colors?
Tree and plant leaves contain pigments that give them their color. Three pigments are
involved in fall color:
· Chlorophyll — gives leaves their green color.
· Carotenoids — provide the yellow, orange, and brown colors
Anthocyanins — give the red and purple colors. In contrast to the other two pigments,
· anthocyanins are produced in the autumn, in response to bright light and excess plant
sugars in the leaf cells.
During the growing season, most tree leaves are green because they are full of chlorophyll.
Plants use chlorophyll to capture sunlight for photosynthesis, the process that enables them
to manufacture their own food. The amount of chlorophyll is so high during the summer that
the green color masks all other pigments present in the leaf. As the days grow shorter in the
fall, chlorophyll production slows down and eventually stops. The carotenoids and
anthocyanins that are present in the leaf then become visible.
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Why Leaves Change Color - Fact Sheet, autumn colors
Do Different Kinds of Trees Turn Different Colors?
Certain colors of leaves are characteristic of particular species of trees.
· Oaks turn red, brown, or russet;
· Hickories turn golden bronze;
· Dogwood turns purplish red;
· Beech turns light tan;
· Red maple turns brilliant scarlet;
· Sugar maple turns orange-red;
· Black maple turns glowing yellow;
· Sourwood and black tupelo turn crimson; ·
Aspen, birch, and yellow-poplar turn golden
yellow.
Leaves of some species such as the elms simply shrivel up and fall off, exhibiting little color
other than brown.
The timing of the color change also varies by
species. Sourwood in southern forests can
become vividly colorful in late summer while all
other species are still green. Oaks put on their
colors long after other species have already shed
their leaves. These differences in timing among
species seem to be genetically inherited. The
timing of color change for certain species
appears to be consistent regardless of local
weather patterns or changes in latitude
Why Are Some Autumns More Colorful?
Temperature and moisture greatly influence autumn color. Since each of these vary greatly,
no two autumns are ever alike. A succession of warm, sunny days and cool, but not freezing
nights seems to bring about the most spectacular color displays. Since carotenoids are
always present in leaves, yellow and gold colors are fairly constant from year to year. In
order for the brilliant scarlet, purple and crimson colors to develop, bright sunlight in the
early fall is needed. Bright sunny days increases food production in trees and plants. These
sugars are trapped in the leaves spurring the production of anthocyanin pigments, providing
the red tints to fall foliage.
The amount of moisture in the soil also affects autumn color. A late spring, or a severe
summer drought, can delay the onset of fall color by a few weeks. A warm period during fall
lowers the intensity of autumn color. Trees defoliated by insects during the growing season
may also show less fall color.
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Why Leaves Change Color - Fact Sheet, autumn colors
Why Do Leaves Fall?
Deciduous trees drop their leaves in order to survive the harsh conditions of winter. Stems,
twigs, and buds are equipped to survive extreme cold. Tender leaf tissues however, would
freeze in winter, so plants must either protect their leaves or shed them.
The evergreens — pines, spruces, and hemlocks – are able to survive winter because they
have developed a way to protect their foliage. Their needle-like or scale-like foliage is
covered with a heavy wax coating and the fluid inside their cells contains substances that
resist freezing.
Fallen leaves are not wasted, they decompose and restock the soil with nutrients. The rich
layer of decomposing leaves protects the roots of other plants on the forest floor and absorbs
and holds rainfall. Imitating nature by mulching with shredded leaves provides similar
benefits for trees and shrubs in the home landscape.
Where and When is the Best Time to See Fall Color?
Generally, peak colors develop in late September for the
Northern States and can extend from October through early
November in the Mid-Atlantic and Southern Midwestern states.
The National Forest System lands, State Forest and county
lands provide ample opportunities for driving, hiking, and
recreating in areas surrounded by fall color. For updates on fall
color as well as scenic drives, call the USDA Forest Service’s
Fall Color Hotline: 1-800-354-4595.
For more information:
— Autumn Colors - How Leaves Change Colors
— Why Leaves Change Color
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