Ramla Walk - Visit Malta

Transcription

Ramla Walk - Visit Malta
Introduction
This circular walk starts and ends in Nadur. This walk will
lead you from ‘Triq Duru’, to ‘Wied Bin©emma’ – a typical
Gozitian valley where traditional agricultural methods
may be observed.
The route then proceeds to the outskirts of Nadur, known
as ‘Ta’ Venuta’. During this part of the walk, you will enjoy
the breathtaking views of one of the most fertile valleys
that can be found on this small island. Along this part of
the walk you will also be able to closely observe the typical
garigue habitat.
On arriving at Ramla Bay, you will discover a treasure in its
own right, featuring remarkable ecological, geological,
historical and archaeological highlights. The walk proceeds
by means of an old and quiet road which will guide you
around the base of ‘Nuffara ridge’. On the way back to
Nadur, from ‘Ta’ X˙ajma’ road, you will come across the
old watch tower, perched on an elevated part on the
village plateau.
A route map found in the centre pages of this booklet,
together with several stone plinths located along this
route, will help you follow along. Sticking to the set route
affords a fascinating cross-section of the Gozitan
countryside, folklore and traditions.
Distance:
Time:
10 kms
4 hours
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
Panoramic views from Duru Street
The Walk
walk starts from ‘Duru Street’
T his
which is the first road on your
left-hand side, if you arrive at Nadur
via ‘Ta’ X˙ajma Street’. Along this
road, you can feast your eyes on the
splendid, panoramic views of the
villages of Xewkija, Xag˙ra, Ûebbu©,
Victoria and The Citadel.
In winter, ‘Nuffara hill’ is covered
with a variety of wild colourful
flowers, with the Cape Sorrel being
the most abundant.
From this high vantage point you
cannot help but notice the unique,
hilly, Gozitan landscape that sets it
apart from the sister island of Malta.
This unique topography is the result
of a succession of several land drifts
caused by tectonic movements
throughout the ages. These have led
to the formation of the Maltese
archipelago and of the numerous
rock faults present within them.
Continue along this road until you
reach a street named ‘Trejqet Santa
Luçija’. This narrow side street leads
to ‘Ta’ Óida’ Street. ‘Ta’ Óida’ refers
to the place where the Hobby Falcon
nests and which has acquired its
name due to the fact that this regal
Part of Ramla Bay
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Nadur’s village centre
bird used to raise its young in cracks
in the cliff side nearby.
This area is the oldest part of the
village of Nadur. People have lived
here long before the village of
Nadur was declared a parish in 1688.
This is evident through the presence
of many old houses featuring old
balconies and open-air staircases.
Further along the road you can
enjoy some enchanting views of
Ramla Bay, as well as of the valley
leading to it. Note the terraced
fields enclosed by rubble walls,
typical of the Maltese and Gozitan
countryside. These rubble walls
serve many functions and are
mainly used to prevent soil erosion
as a result of wind and rain, as well
as to mark the limits of the
individual plots. Additionally, in
recent years, it has been recognised
that these walls have actually
developed mini-ecosystems and
have become the natural habitat to
many species, including the lizard.
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Once you have reached the main
road that leads to Ramla Bay, cross
the road and walk to ‘Wied
Bin©emma’ Street. This road offers
unique spectacular views of a
typically cultivated valley. From
among the recently built houses to
your left, you can catch a glimpse of
the village centre of Nadur,
dominated by the majestic baroque
church.
Work on the church,
designed by the Maltese architect
Giuseppe Bonniçi, began on the 7th
December 1760. In 1904 the aisle,
dome and façade, designed by
Prof. F.S. Sciortino, were added to
the original building. The church is
A group of frogs
enjoying the first morning sun
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
A typical reed wind breaker
open everyday from 05.00 until
10.00 hrs and from 16.15 until 19.15
hrs.
From here you can see another
smaller, privately owned church.
Rev. Joseph Vella originally had this
church built and now his relatives
pay for its maintenance. The
foundation stone was laid on the
4th May 1902. The paintings on the
dome, ceiling and altar piece are by
Prof. Guiseppe Briffa.
Along the road, the built landscape
gives way to views of the open
countryside. This area is called
‘Wied Bin©emma’ and in winter a
watercourse flows along the leftThe fragile flower of the Tassel Hyacinth
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An orchard of citrus trees
hand side of this road. It is almost
impossible to miss is the Great Reed
that typically grows near valley
banks and along watercourses.
Local inhabitants use the dried cane
of this plant for various purposes.
Rows of this cane are tied together
to produce the familiar wind
breakers that are used to shield the
crops from the northern wind in
winter. The reed curtains that can
be seen covering the front doors
and windows of Gozitan houses are
also made of this reed which is cut
and tied together with pieces of
rope.
Virtually all year round, tadpoles of
the Painted Frog, the only
amphibian of the Maltese islands,
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A very old olive tree at Wied Bin©emma
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
A typical rubble wall
can be seen swimming in this clear
watercourse. Due to the area’s
plentiful fresh water supply, many
different fruit trees have been
planted in the surrounding fields.
These orchards consist mainly of
citrus, pomegranate and apple trees
as well as vines.
The flower of the Field Bindweed
A wide variety of vegetables is
grown in other fields.
Proceeding along this fertile area of
undisturbed countryside, you will
come accross a small olive grove.
The lichens (a successful alliance
between a fungus and an alga) that
The common Blue Butterfly
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Ramla Bay
grow on the branches indicate that
these trees are very old. The lichens
found on these olive trees are very
rare on the Maltese islands, and this
valley is one of the few habitats
where this species can be found.
From this point, San Blas, a secluded
area in the village of Nadur, can be
seen towering on the left hand side
of the valley. You can also note
quite a number of backyard
gardens. If you continue walking
along this road you will reach a
small room, which houses a
borehole. This borehole is operated
by the Water Services Corporation,
which manages the islands’ ground
water sources. Similar boreholes are
common along the valleys in Gozo,
Comino and Malta.
Here the road ends in a T-junction,
where you should take the road to
your left. Walk uphill along this
The Roman Villa
Remains of this villa were discovered in 1910 by some local farmers who were
digging in the sand near the remains of the old battery. While they were digging
they unearthed some pieces of fine marble. That evening these farmers went to
the local wine shop and talked about what they had found. A school headmaster,
Mr Farrugia, happened to be in the same shop and overheard the story and
immediately phoned Sir Temi Zammit, who at the time was the Museums Director.
Sir Temi Zammit showed up at Ramla Bay the following morning. The excavations
revealed the remains of a Roman villa complete with baths. The villa had about 19
rooms some of which were decorated with mosaic and marble; the villa was also
found to be fitted with a heating
and drainage system. The artefacts
that were found are now preserved
at the National Museum in
Valletta. Following excavations
and proper recording, the remains
of this villa have once again been
The area where the Roman Villa is buried
buried under sand for the sake of
protection.
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GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
Batteries and Redoubts
These batteries and redoubts were
armed with the necessary weapons,
usually between four to ten 12-pounder
cannons, to prevent enemy forces from
landing on the island. The military
architects D’Arginy, Fontete and
Bachelius devised the plan of these
redoubts and presented it in the Report
of January 10, 1715. These plans were
further developed by the French
military architect Vendsome.
road until you arrive at a point
where the road forks into two. This
time take the road to your right.
Remains of the Ramla Left Belancourt Battery
On arriving at Ramla Bay, the first
thing that will probably capture
This part of the walk continues in
open countryside. Once again the
road leads to crossroads - take the
road to your left (1), which proceeds
to ‘Ramla Road’. While following the
road downhill (2), you can spot an
old field-house that has a traditional
pigeonry in one of its rooms.
Passing by this field-house, you will
arrive at the T-junction near the big
vineyard which flanks the road.
Take the right turning and proceed
to Ramla Bay. Here, a large parking
area, telephone box and public
toilets are available. Ramla boasts
unique historical, geographical, and
natural features waiting to be
discovered.
The statue of the Madonna dates back to 1881
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Underwater Defences
A complex series of fortifications
were devised for Ramla Bay,
including the building of an
underwater entrenchment wall. The
latter spans the whole bay and
although invisible from the sea, is
very effective in preventing vessels
from reaching the beach. The wall is
best seen from Calypso’s Cave,
where you will be able to see a dark
jagged line across the bay.
Fougasses
Fougasses were excavated as close
as possible to the shore with their
axles pointing towards the most
probable route that the enemy
would take. The defenders would
charge the fougasses with a barrel of
gunpowder and then load them with
rocks, keeping the largest rocks at
the bottom.
Fougasses were meant to discharge
a shower of stones that would cause
a great deal of damage to the enemy
galleys. If they missed however, the
fougasses needed about one hour to
be reloaded, but the Knight’s
optimism was inexhaustible. This is
shown by a quote from Boisgelin’s
Ancient and Modern Malta,
Appendix IV: ‘‘even if they miss their
aim they inspire great terror, from
the apprehension that a second
attempt may be more successful. ”
The Underwater Wall
your attention, other than the
beach itself, is a small slope located
along the side of the parking area.
Here you can see the heavily eroded
remains of an old building. These
are the remains of the ‘Ramla Left
Balincourt Battery’. In all there were
three batteries located at Ramla
Bay. The second battery is the
‘Ramla
Vendsome
Redoubt’,
formerly located in the centre of
Ramla Bay. However, in 1881 it was
replaced by a votive statue of the
Madonna. Behind this statue you
can still see some stone slabs, which
once formed part of this redoubt.
The third battery, the ‘Ramla Right
Balincourt Battery’, was built in a
cave on the cliffs of Nadur. The cave
can still be seen from the bay. Some
elderly people from Nadur maintain
that a staircase used to connect this
battery to the bay.
These batteries were built around
Gozo between 1715 and 1716. The
three batteries at Ramla Bay were
also protected by an entrenchment
wall, which was set up in the sea.
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The Fougasse
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
form part of the defensive system
and is known as a fougasse.
The sand dunes of Ramla Bay
The latter can still be seen from a
high vantage point such as
‘Calypso’s Cave’ at Xag˙ra. These
entrenchments were a form of
irregularly shaped lines of defence
built close to the shore facing the
open sea. On the eastern side of
Ramla Bay, lying on the edge of the
seashore, is a large rock with a big
circular hole in it. This hole used to
The most evident feature of Ramla
bay is its red sand, which is the
result of the natural erosion of the
green sand rock - a thin layer of soft
rock found on both sides of the bay.
Once the sand is formed, waves and
currents help to keep the sand
ashore.
During the winter months, a large
amount of rainwater flows from the
valley into the sea. This forms a
pond of brackish water and Great
Reeds grow by its banks. In summer,
this pond does not dry out
completely and the Killifish, an
endemic brackish water fish, can be
seen in it.
Ramla Bay as seen from the cave that formed part of the Ramla Right Balincourt Battery
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GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
The sea holly
The sand dunes and their fragile
ecosystems have become quite rare
in the Maltese islands, as most
other sandy beaches have suffered
significant impacts owing to
intensive development.
The sand dunes also provide the
appropriate habitat for the
numerous African Tamarisk trees.
These trees harbour a variety of
birds and reptiles. Since their roots
are firmly anchored in the sand,
they reduce sand dune erosion
considerably.
The main plants that grow in these
sand dunes consist of the Sea Holly,
Sea Daffodil, the Woolly Safflower,
the Smooth-leaved Saltwort and
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A fire bug resting on the flower of the bushy restharrow
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
the Bushy Restharrow. All these
plants have developed many
adaptations that help them survive
in these harsh, dry and highly saline
conditions. Since the sand dunes
are not static and their shape
changes at a relatively fast rate,
these plants have also managed to
cope with surviving in a disturbed
environment. They can even survive
when they are buried under the
sand.
The bushy restharrow’s flower in detail
The water catchment Dams
This habitat also harbours a variety
of insect species. They live on plants
or else are found burrowing in the
sand. Many different spiders are
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found here but they are usually very
well camouflaged and hard to spot.
On the shoreline, a whole new
ecosystem exists. You may spot
small
worms
called
‘swat’
burrowing in the wet sand near the
sea. Additionally, several other
organisms live in the Posidonia
seaweed that is washed ashore.
As Ramla Bay is the most popular
The old road to Ramla as seen from high point
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The sea at Ramla Bay when windy
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
The detail and the beauty of the tree mallow’s flower
bay in Gozo, a large number of
people visit the site, particularly in
summer.
On leaving the beach, retrace your
steps back to the T-junction. This
time keep walking straight ahead,
along the road to Xag˙ra. On the
right-hand side of the road you can
see the small water-catchment
dams. These are used by
neighbouring farmers to gather the
The Sea Medic
The Sea Daffodil
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The old road to Ramla Bay
rainwater. This is then used to
irrigate their crops and fruit trees
during the dry summer months.
Continue walking along this road
until it starts going uphill. At this
point turn into a narrow side-road
to your left (3). This side road is
called ‘Old Ramla road’, since it was
the only road that led to Ramla from
Walking along the old road to Ramla
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the village of Xag˙ra. This road will
take you around the base of
‘Nuffara Ridge’ which is situated
right between the slopes of Nadur
and Xag˙ra.
‘In-Nuffara’, which is now in a
secluded and undisturbed part of
this open countryside, must have
been a very busy place during the
prehistoric era.
Archaeological
findings revealed six roundly cut
holes with large bell-shaped
recesses below. These probably
served as tombs in the Tarxien
period for the Ìgantija people (2400
- 2200 B.C.) and as silos or cisterns
during the Bronze Age period (1450 300B.C.). Shards belonging to the
Arab period were also found
scattered around on this hill and
these finds indicate that it was used
as a settlement by Arabs.
Walking along this quiet and
secluded road instils a deep sense of
the beauty and serenity of the
Gozitan countryside. A right turn
leads into a side road that develops
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
Ta’ Óamet Chapel
Ta’ Óamet Chapel
This chapel, known locally as Ta’ Óamet, is
dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel. It was built
by Liberato Grech who was responsible for the
uprising of the Gozitans against the French. On 12th
June 1789, Napoleon took over the islands and the
era of the Knights of Malta came to an end after 268
years of rule. The French troops who crossed over to
Gozo were posted at Fort Chambrai and the Citadel.
The French imposed new laws that the locals did
not accept as they went against Gozitan traditions
and customs. The French repealed the authority of
the church, severed all connections with Rome and
only allowed each religious order to have one
convent. To add insult to injury, most of the
churches were ransacked.
By the 2nd September 1798, the Maltese started their revolt against the French.
News spread to the sister island of Gozo and the locals started to prepare
themselves for battle. It was Archpriest Saverio Cassar together with some Gozitan
leaders who organised the plot to overthrow the French. Liberato Grech, who was
from Xag˙ra, was given command of a group of men from Xag˙ra and Xewkija,
while a lawyer, Dr Giuseppe Grima was in command of a group from Ûebbu©. The
French retreated into the fortifications. Fort Chambrai was conquered on the night
between 16 and 17th September 1798 and the Citadel was taken a few days later.
As a gesture of thanksgiving for victory over the French, Liberato Grech built this
chapel, which was then blessed by his son, Canon Salvatore Grech. A farmhouse
with a stone plinth bearing a carving of the souls in purgatory is located across the
road, in front of the chapel.
The altarpiece inside the chapel depicts Our Lady of Mount
Carmel holding Baby Jesus in her lap. It was painted in 1883
by Tommaso Madiona. The importance of this painting lies
in the fact that the artist included a view of the chapel with
a typical Gozitan landscape as the background for the lower
part of the painting.
To the left, is a painting of St Michael by Antonio Falzon,
which was installed in 1844, while an old baroque painting
of the Immaculate Conception hangs in the vestry.
Although the artist is still unknown, the picture is believed
to be a replica of the alterpiece of the Cospicua Church in
Malta.
Carving of Souls in Purgatory
Distant views of the Citadel
into a T-junction.
Taking the
turning to the right and walking
straight ahead (4), you will arrive at
a main road. At this point you
should turn left and pass by ‘Ta’
Óamet chapel’. The chapel has a
classical façade with the twin bell
towers being a later addition. The
new chapel was built side-by-side
the old chapel, which had become
too small for its congregation.
Although the chapel is open daily,
the front door of the old chapel is
normally kept closed as service is
usually held in the new chapel. The
chapel may be accessed through the
vestry to the right of the front door,
or by crossing the car park on the
right hand side of the chapel.
Leaving the chapel and walking
straight on, you will arrive at a
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The Wall Brown Butterfly
GOZO C O U N T R Y S I D E W A L K S
roundabout. Take a left turn and
walk along the ‘Ta’ X˙ajma’ road to
the starting point of the walk.
As you walk uphill along ‘Ta’
X˙ajma’ road, note the signal tower
that stands on a high ridge. This
Signal tower is known as ‘Ta’
Kenuna’. It was built during the
English rule in the middle of the
nineteenth century. The tower was
later used as a telegraph post.
Today the tower has been restored
and is still being used for
communication purposes, as the
antennae set up on its roof indicate.
A closer look at the Red Flower of Sulla
After a long walk along ‘Ta’ X˙ajma’
road, you will reach the starting
point of this fascinating walking
tour.
Ta’ Kenuna Signal Tower
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The Green Valley of Ramla
Facts About The Route
The route is suitable for pedestrians, horse rides and pedal bikes.
Most of the route is accessible to small vehicles servicing persons with
disabilities.
Before setting out, check the local bus schedule to avoid being stranded.
Since most of the walk is in open countryside, check the local weather
forecast and carry a raincoat when the weather is not stable.
After heavy downpours, allow a few hours to pass as crossing valleys
might be unsafe.
The use of adequate hiking shoes is recommended. Tread carefully when
route takes you over clay footpaths.
As most of the route is in the open countryside it is advisable to carry a
packed lunch.
It is possible to buy food at Nadur.
Public convenience places are available at Ramla Bay and Nadur.
The following table depicts typical average weather conditions including temperature,
hours of sunshine/ day, rainfall and sea temperatures. Walking conditions are most
favourable during the months of January, February, May, November and December.
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Tips For The Road
Walk only along the set route.
Fields are privately owned so please do not
take any short cuts.
Do not climb over rubble walls, they are
easily damaged.
Do not leave any litter. Dispose of all litter
appropriately.
Respect the privacy of people living along
the route.
Do not pick any flowers and plants, take
only photographs.
Do not widen any trails by trampling.
Do not throw any stones or other objects
into the valleys or freshwater bodies.
It is advisable to tackle the route in broad
daylight allowing stops, for resting,
viewing, photographing, etc.
Avoid walking or cycling close to the cliff
edges. Beware of sudden guests of wind.
Bird trapping and hunting are practised
in the countryside. There are, however,
strict regulations determining areas
where such activities are permitted and
times of the year where no such
activities are allowed.
Useful Telephone Numbers
Emergency and rescue:
Ambulance:
Police Station:
Telephone Enquiries:
Ministry for Gozo:
website: www.gozo.gov.mt
Malta Tourism Authority:
website: www.visitmalta.com
Gozo Tourism Association:
Nadur Local Council:
112
196
191
1182
21 56 14 82
22 91 50 00
21 56 51 71
21 55 80 80
A typical field house
Other
Useful Information
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying,
recording
or
otherwise, without the prior
written consent of the copyright
holder. Direct enquires are to be
forwarded to the Malta Tourism
Authority.
Feedback or comments are welcome.
Email: [email protected]
Date of Publication: March 2005
Text:
Etienne Micallef
Photos: Etienne Micallef
Map:
Andre Micallef Grimaund
Produced by the:
Malta Tourism Authority’s
Product Planning
and Development Directorate
Ramla Walk
While hiking along this route, you will explore several of Gozo’s natural, geological,
historical and traditional features. However, particularly distinctive of this walk are the
relaxing sounds of one of the most fertile valleys on the island. Here you will discover
the unique colour of the red sand at Ramla and enjoy the panoramic views offered by
the Gozitan countryside.
Walks in the series (issued to date)
Ta’ Ìurdan Walk
Ba˙rija Walk
Passing through:
Passing through:
Da˙let Qorrot Walk
Girgenti Walk
Passing through:
Passing through:
Saltpan Walk
Marfa Ridge Walk
Passing through:
Passing through:
Ramla Bay Walk
Dwejra Lines Walk
Passing through:
Passing through:
G˙arb - Wied il-Miela˙
G˙asri Valley - Ta’ Ìurdan
Ta’ Pinu
Nadur - Da˙let Qorrot Bay
Ta’ Griegel Valley - Qala
Victoria - Sara Valley
G˙asri - G˙asri Valley
Reqqa Point - Xwejni
Nadur - Wied Bin©emma
Ramla Bay - Ta’ Óamet
Ba˙rija - Ba˙rija Valley - Mtahleb
Tal-Vigarju Cliffs - Fiddien Valley Rabat
Buskett - G˙ar il-kbir Girgenti Valley
Si©©iewi - Il-Maqluba - Qrendi
G˙adira - L-A˙rax tal-Mellie˙a Armier - Marfa - Çirkewwa Ras il-Qammieh
M©arr - Bin©emma - Dwejra Lines
Speranza Valley - Mosta
Gozo Countryside Walks is a partnership project
of the:
Ministry for Gozo, Ministry for Tourism and
Culture, the Malta Tourism Authority and
the Gozo Tourism Association
The project was launched in 2002, the World
Tourism Organisation’s International Year of
Ecotourism.
Price Lm1.00