Bulgarian Khane Valley Expedition 2011–Paksitan

● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012
NIKOLAY PETKOV, DOYCHIN
TATSUO (TIM)
BOYANOV,
INOUE
MICHAIL MICHAILOV
The First Khane
AscentValley
of Lopchin
Feng (KG-2)
6,805m
Bulgarian
Expedition
2011–Pakistan
Autumn
2009 Expedition
Kangri
Garpo2011/12,
East Mountains,
Tibet
First Phase
Karakoram to
Bigthe
Walls
Project
Tagas Group
(Supplemented by Tsuneo Miyamori)
Tangra Tower 5,620m south face, No.33 on Wala map, unclimbed
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JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012 ●
Between September 10 and 22, 2011, a Bulgarian exploratory expedition visited the Khane Valley in
Karakoram to investigate and assess to the possibilities for new big-wall routes and ascents on
unclimbed summits. Our team included Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Mihail Mihaylov.
We availed ourselves of information and maps by Jerzy Wala; other sources were Google Earth, the
2005 Annual Book of the Korean Students᾽ Alpine Federation as well as knowledge of local
inhabitants of the Khane village.
On September 11, 2011, after a two-day walk from Khane village, the team built a base camp at 4650
m on the right-hand (north) moraine of the Khane Glacier.
We observed, photographed and measured the summits in the upper part of the valley: Hidden Tower
(~,5830m), Agil (~5,680m), Tangra (~5,620m), Rila (~5,600m), Sofia (~5,550m), Meligo (~5,680m),
Gray Tower (~5,300m), etc. The heights determined by us were measured with a GPS Garmin with
an average horizontal accuracy of 6 to 8 m, corresponding to a vertical accuracy of about 20 meters.
All other height figures, marked with the tilde sign (~), are tentative, taken from the Google Earth
model for this region.
Mountaineering History
For many years, the Khane Valley has remained in a shadow of the neighboring Nangmah and
Charakusa Valleys closely to the north and parallel to it as Charakusa and Nangmah᾽s greater had
potentials for first ascents on the fine granite walls of unclimbed peaks in 1990s and 2000s. Currently,
the main summits and walls in these two valleys have all been climbed.
To date, the Khane Valley has only been places for the same name village providing pastures for their
livestock and most summits were unnamed except for those peaks seen from the villages along the
Hushe River, the Nangmah Valley and the pastures along the Khane River up to around 4,300m.
According to the Khane villagers, the first foreigner to have visited the valley in 2001 was a Korean;
he came two more times and made two failed attempts to climb, most probably, the west wall of Agil
Summit. During the second visit the Koreans set up a camp at 4,450m and opened a climbing route
on a 250-meter high rocky outcrop near by – probably reaching the very top of this satellite arête.
Actually, this is the first route to be made here, but the climb was insignificant since there are many
other bigger walls surrounding the valley to all directions. So far we have no other information on
explorations and attempts on climbing the other summits.
It is said that an American came for a trekking after Ogre Peak expedition. She reached a foot of
Great Tower tracing a big grassy terrace (First Terrace) along the side valley between Rila and Tangra
Peaks to the east and Sofia Peak to the west.
The other ascents before 2011 started from the Nangmah Valley on Black Tower (Sarigo) and Singu
Chatpa (also called Singu Charpa and Great Tower). There is a small but very beautiful pointed peak
towering over Khane village, called Nauari Brakk (~3,250m); this was first climbed by villagers Ali
Mehmed and his son, Ruhal Ali in 2009. All the other summits surrounding the valley remain
untrodden.
Geography
The Khane Valley is perpendicular to the Hushe River in Masherbrum Range. The valley is separated
from the Nangmah Valley to the north by a serrated rocky ridge. Another rocky barrier delimits its
southern edge, separating it from a small valley above Haldi Village (also Halde). To the east, where
the main ridge makes an almost right-angle curve, is the upper part of the Tagas Valley. The ridge in
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● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012
the northeastern part of the valley borders on the upper side of the Lachit Valley and Glacier. The
highest part of the Khane Valley is orientated in the north-south direction and the main part in the
east-west-northwest direction. The right-hand (north) and left-hand (south) sides of the Khane Glacier
and River are delimited by two main ridges. To the north, the right-hand one slopes down to the
Nangmah Valley. Its main peaks are Black Tower (Sarigo) and Great Tower (Singu Chatpa).
The Khane Glacier flows south through the Khane Col (~5,250m). At first, it moves in the northsouth direction, then, after an icefall at 4,900m, it abruptly turns west. At 4,400m, the glacier᾽s snout
gives rise of the Khane River, flowing northwest. This is the place we named Second Terrace, where
the Korean camp was situated. After a sheer drop, the river forms a waterfall and flows through a
wide grassy plain (First Terrace) used for pastures.
The main peaks situated on the left-hand side of the glacier above Khane Col are Hasho II (~6,000m),
Peak 58 (~5,930), Hidden Tower (or Peak 59, ~5,830), Khanlim (Peak 60) and the Twins. On the
right-hand side of the glacier are Peak 23 and Agil (~5,680). At the base of the Twins᾽ north wall, the
Khane Glacier abruptly turns west along the north slopes of the southern ridge.
Immediately before sloping down to the Hushe Valley, the left-hand (southern) ridge has two main
peaks: Meligo (~5,680m) and Grey Tower (~5,300m). Meligo Peak is separated from the Twins to the
east by a saddle that can be reached by an iced gully between the Twins and the Saws Ridge. Seen
from the north (from Khane), Meligo is characteristic with two big rocky arêtes, named the Ghulam
and Fida Towers (~5,200m), which rise from the main ridge coming from the east. To the west, it is
connected to Gray Tower. Down to 4,400 m, Meligo᾽s northern slope is covered with the South
Khane Glacier. This can be crossed and, after a small saddle and crossing a steep gully, the saddle
between Meligo and Gray Tower is reached at 5,000m. After Gray Tower, the ridge (~4,800m high)
gradually slopes down to the valley at Khane Village (2,800m).
The right-hand main ridge begins from Khane Pass. It is directed from the east to the northwest.
Starting from Khane Pass, it includes Peak 23 (~5,600m), the Trident (Peak 26, ~5,550m), the Thumb
(Peak 31, ~5,480), Peak 32, Tangra Tower (Peak 33, ~5,620m), Rila Peak (Peak 36, ~5,600m), Levski
Peak (Peak 38, ~5,620m), Singu Chatpa/Great Tower (Peak 44, ~5,910m), Gamgar Brakk (an arête
between the two main summits), Black Tower/Sarigo (Peak 50, ~5,600m) and, immediately above
Khane Village, Nauari Brakk (Peak 52, ~3,250m).
Agil (Peak 24, ~5,680m) is a prominent summit situated south of the main ridge, on a secondary
ridge starting from Peak 23 and sloping down to the middle of the valley where the glacier forms a
right angle.
The other prominent summit visible to the north from the First Terrace is Sofia (Peak 39, ~5,550m). It
is situated on a side ridge, starting from the main one at Singu Chatpa and going south.
The North Cirque (5,100m) is at the bottom of the valley flanked by Agil Peak to the east, Tangra
Peak to the west and the Trident and Khane Col II to the north. Starting from the cirque, the North
Khane Glacier flows to the south, perpendicularly to the main Khane Glacier. Its terminus gives rise
of a big stream and valley descending all the way down to the glacial plain named Second Terrace.
Another big cirque and a relatively easily accessible valley are formed between Singu Chatpa and
Sofia Peak to the west and Levski and Rila Peaks to the east. This valley goes down to the glacial
plain named First Terrace.
Narrow and closed but well shaped, the third valley lies between Black Tower, Singu Chatpa and
Sofia Peaks. It goes down to the lower part of the main valley, close to the beginning of an abandoned
artificial channel.
Apart from the peaks forming the high ridges, other places of interest from the climber᾽s point of
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view are the rocky faces of the towers in the lower zone, immediately above the valley᾽s bottom.
These are prominent rocky needles and towers with 300 to 400-meter high-quality granite walls.
These satellite peaks are more characteristic for the northern slopes, which mean that they have
predominantly south, west and east faces, with no snow or ice on them. They are suitable for multipitch rock-climbing routes.
* The right-hand and left-hand directions are determined as observed whilst facing downstream.
Access
A three-hour SUV drive along the valleys of the Indus and Shyok Rivers leads from Skardu, the
administrative capital of the Pakistan᾽s Baltistan Province, to the town of Khaplu. Up to this point,
there is an asphalt road in a pretty good state. From Khaplu, take the wire-rope bridge across the
Shyok River to the north, towards the villages of Machulu and Khane. This is the road of Hushe.
About 1:30 hours from Khaplu (dirt road) the village of Khane is reached, situated on the left bank of
the Hushe River, at 2,800m. This village is relatively unknown to foreign visitors. The locals grow
crops and breed animals, mainly goats, sheep and yaks.
For the time being, there is no special permit needed to visit Khane and the neighboring Nangmah
Valley. By contrast, to visit other valleys in the region, as the Charakusa Valley, you need a trekking
permit. As the summits don᾽t surpass 6,500m, no permit is needed for them either.
On the map, there are many other valleys visible to the south and east of Khane – the Haldi, Tagas,
Tsino and Lachit Valleys – but all of them are closed to foreigners (except the first one may be), and
this applies to all ramifications of the Saltoro and Kondus Valleys all the way back to the Siachen
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Glacier, the demarcation line with India. The military checkpoint and barrier are in the village of
Haldi.
Khane Village is the starting point of the trek, going east on the steep sandy slope of the river᾽s left
bank. After reaching an irrigation channel* cut into the slope, the path follows this horizontally
towards the Khane River. After a 5-hour᾽s walk, you reach the big grassy plain (First Terrace) at
4,000m. Here, the first camp is set up in the vicinity of the livestock pens (a camping tax is
collected). From here on, there are excellent places to set camp for climbing in the valley. Starting
from the green terrace, the path initially crosses flat fields on both sides of the Khane River until it
reaches the far end of the terrace (it is advisable to use the northern river bank, i.e. the left-hand one
when going upstream). A 450-meter ascent leads to the Korean Base Camp at the bottom of the valley
coming down from the North Cirque. The Bulgarian Camp is reached in one hour going east,
upstream the main Khane Glacier. It is situated on the large sandy flats to the right (or to the left
when going up) of the glacial moraine at 4,650m. This is the last good place with hard soil and water.
From the Bulgarian Camp, the Khane Icefall is reached in 1:30 hours. This is also the way to reach
the Hidden Tower wall. The icefall can be climbed in its left-hand side. An early start is advisable
because of the two huge seracs hanging from the western slopes of Khanlim Peak (Peak 60).
Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – southern part from the southwest
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Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – southern part
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Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – northern part
JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012 ●
Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – upper part
Summits and Glaciers
When naming the peaks, we have taken into consideration, at the first place, existing local names, and
then the ones given by the Korean expedition. For all others, we have used the numbering and
elevations quoted on maps by Jerzy Wala. Geographic names given by the Bulgarian expedition are
the following:
Summits
Hidden Tower (~ 5,830m) – Peak 59
Rila Peak (~ 5,600m) – Peak 36
Levski Peak (~ 5,520m) – Peak 38
The Thumb (~ 5,480m) – Peak 31
Grey Tower (~ 5,300m) – Peak 222
Tangra Tower (~ 5,620m) – Peak 33
Sofia Peak (~ 5,550m) – Peak 39
The Trident (~ 5,550m) – Peak 26
Ghulam & Fida Towers (~ 5,100m) – Peak 68
The Saws Ridge, Peak 66
Glaciers and cirques
North Cirque & North Khane Glacier (~ 5,000m)
South Khane Glacier (~ 4,900m)
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● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012
Hidden Tower 5,830m north and south face, No. 59 on Wala map, unclimbed
Agil Peak 5,680m (Korean name) southwest face,
No. 24 on Wala map, unclimbed
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Rila Peak 5,600 south face,
No. 36 on Wala map, unclimbed
JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012 ●
Overview of Peaks Surrounding Nangmah Valley, Tagas Group
Fukusima Expedition 2005
(Text: Tsuneo Miyamori, Photos: Shigehiro Kakizaki)
The Tagas massif is surrounded by those valleys of Hushe, Saltoro, Kondus, Lachit and Nangmah,
namely ranges northwards to the K6 massif from the Austrian Col that shares the Nangmah and
Lachit valleys. Jerzy Wala᾽s map is attached hereto for identification.
Those rivers of Nangmah, Khane, Tagas and Lachit flow out from near Hasho Pk ca.6200m W22
(number marked on the Wala map). These rivers were used as an access to climb peaks around K6.
Lofty rock peaks soaring in both sides of the rivers attacked climbers᾽ attention in 1980s.
Wojciech Kurtyka᾽s photographs and Wala᾽s detailed and comprehensive maps inspired many
climbers in 2000s. Peaks are not high but dark granite rock walls with sharp-pointed towers are awful
and most challenging. They would provide abundant fields for extreme and exciting climbs.
The Nangmuh River locates adjacent to and north of the Khane River which the Korean and
Bulgarian entered. The K6 massif is on the right bank and the Tagas massif in on the left bank of the
Nangmuh Rivers. A ridge, local name Lele, and a top of Cuculi Brack ca. 5,600m W49 are viewed
towards upstream from Minjul/Mingyul of the Hushe valley, if weather is fine. An access route is in
the both sides of the river. Steep zigzag ascent continues from New Kande to Minjul as if were in the
abysm sided by overwhelming rock walls. A group of pointed peaks first seen are W147 and W143 of
Nurishan Pks. Height of these peaks is not measured.
1. Photo ① shows the W143 taken from the west and east.
2. ② After passing Karuka, a whole view of Cuculi Brack ca. 5,600m W49 appears and summit ridge
ranging east to west above the northwest face.
3. The central part of ③ is a dark wall of Shingu Chapta (Great Tower) 5,910m, which was first climbed
via the east face by Shin Dong-Chul and other two member of a Korean party in 1999 after a trial
attempt on Amin Brakk.
4. All peaks including ④ Lunkha Peaks have been yet measured. A peak in the center, Kusho Pk II
ca. 6,200m W22 is behind Lunkha Pk W29.
5. Photo ⑤ is a picture seen from Karuka to east. Takab Tower W17 is prominent and only from this
point Husho Pk I W21 can be seen on the right-upper part of this picture. On the further right-upper
part snowy summit ridge of Luhka Pk W29 is noticed.
6. ⑥ Vertical dark wall in the right of Takub Tower W17 is of an unmeasured peak called Roungkhanchang
II W30 ca. 4,700m. Roungkhanchan ranges from 1 to IV peak having magnificent rock walls. In
2004, before assaulting Shingu Chatpa, three members of an Italian party successfully climbed 540m
vertical wall of Roungkhanchan I ca. 4,500m in 14 pitches.
7. ⑦ The Austrian Col is the lowest saddle at ca. 5,400m to connect the Nangmah River and Lachit
River being behind a front ridge. The Col was en route for ascending K6 and shares the K6 massif
and the Tagas massif.
8. ⑧ From W131 ranging to Nawaz Brakk and then to Amin Brakk, but only W130 is dominant in
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sight.
9. ⑨ Only a top of Amin Brakk is seen. Changui Pk W132 and W130 are only subsidiary peaks of
Amin group.
10. ⑩ The last fortress in the K6 massif, Changui Tower. North face would presumably remain unclimbed.
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