model train report - Modeltrainbeginners.com

12 Costly Mistakes to Avoid
& 12 Clever Techniques to Help
You Build a Better Model Train Layout
By Robert Anderson
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There’s no doubt in my mind that model railroading is the greatest hobby in the world. Not only can
you create your own unique miniature world to escape to; you can enjoy some very relaxing and
rewarding times in the process. You’ll get to make new friends and develop skills you never
dreamed of mastering. There are few limits, apart from maybe space and budget, and you can get
started at any age and at any skill level.
A word of warning: The model railroading bug is contagious!!
Fact is; few people ever finish their “wonderful” layout. Most of us build several before settling on
one we really like, and even then we say, “Next time I will do this… and not do that…”
Each layout will be the result of what you learned from your previous ones, and what you would
like to do this time. For most bitten by the bug, model railroading is a lifetime pursuit full of joys and
challenges.
While you don’t need to be an expert woodworker, track layer, electrical worker, structure builder,
backdrop painter, coupler expert, engine repairer, wheel/truck fixer… you do need to know a little
bit about a lot of things to successfully build a reliable working layout.
This special report will help you along your journey by explaining 12 costly and common mistakes
that so many newcomers to the hobby make. It also includes 12 clever techniques, several useful
resources, and numerous tips to help you build a better layout.
Here's a fun notice you could display in your train room.
Let’s begin…
Mistake #1 - Trying to adapt a starter set
into a full-sized layout
We all have to start somewhere in the hobby
and for most it begins with one of those
mass-produced starter sets that range from
around $80 - $300. Now don’t get me wrong,
they are a good introduction especially for
children, but if you are serious about
developing this hobby into an ongoing leisure
activity, then you’ll soon appreciate the
limitations of these train sets. Apart from
quickly losing interest with the basic oval
layout, there will be other frustrations to cope
with.
The transformer that came with the set will usually have just enough power for an engine and a
couple of wagons to travel around the oval track and not much more. Trying to add more wagons
may affect the performance, or even cause the train to grind to a halt. Adding more track may
seem like a good idea, but that too is likely to result in stoppages. The transformer in these sets is
generally only designed to power the basic oval which came with the set.
Buying a bigger transformer is one solution, but then you need to consider the quality of the other
components in the set, namely the track and the locomotive.
Starter sets are made for a price and this is typically reflected in the locomotive quality (or lack of).
A poor quality loco will cause nothing but trouble for even the most experienced railroader. A
locomotive runs by drawing electricity from the track through its wheels. The wheels transfer the
electricity to the motor, which then turns the gears to drive the engine. Good quality locomotives
will have plenty of pick-up wheels, whilst beginner sets may have only one set. Better quality
engines are more expensive, but are usually more powerful and will potentially last forever. They
are also heavier so give much better contact with the track. That results in less stopping and
starting… and fewer derailments.
So, starter sets have a place, but if you are in this hobby for the longer term, then you’ll want the
reliability and flexibility of better quality equipment.
Mistake #2 - Too keen to get started and
not enough patience
Model railroading is a fun and exciting hobby,
because it involves so many different skills.
You will get to work with your hands, work
solving problems with your mind, and apply
your imagination creating something uniquely
your own.
The hobby is creative, practical and mentally
stimulating. You need to think of it as a long
and exciting adventure, rather than a race to
the finish. Having an open mind to learning
new skills… and having plenty of patience is
the key.
Rushed jobs will only end in
disappointment.
The hobby involves everything from: carpentry to electronics, model building, painting, engineering
and even historical research when planning your layout. Every little part of your layout will provide
wonderful memories for years to come. You will not only remember the little frustrations and
mistakes, but also the great sense of satisfaction each time you create some wonderfully realistic
scenery, or get something working to perfection. Yes, you will remember the 5 coats of paint it took
to achieve that natural weathered look on a particular building… you will remember exactly how
you built that tunnel where trains mysteriously disappear and magically reappear on the other side
of the mountain. Those are the things you’ll be able to laugh and chat about as you share your
experiences with others.
From experience it’s best to start with a simple project. It will save you the hassle of dealing with a
lot of the details and complexities involved in a difficult layout. You can keep on enhancing your
skills by adding more details to your railroad as time elapses. Believe me, it is worthwhile taking
your time completing the layout properly. Your aim should be to get it right, and not just finishing it
off in record time without any attention to the details.
Mistake #3 - Mixing scales and selecting
the wrong scale
Model train layouts are scaled down replicas of their real world counterparts.
As a handy reference
below is a list of the
main scales from largest
to the smallest:
O scale is 1:48
OO scale is 1:76
HO scale is 1:87
N scale is 1:160
Z scale is 1:220
When getting started in the hobby, do not get put off by all the different train scales on offer. It is
really very simple. When deciding what to purchase, just keep in mind that O scale, HO scale and
N scale are the most common scales in use. Of those, HO is the most widely used scale and is
roughly the same scale as the popular OO gauge in the UK.
Before getting started building a model layout, think carefully about which scale would best suit
your needs and then stick with that scale for your first project.
One of the worst mistakes is to get started building your railroad layout and then decide to change
train scales. Apart from the obvious operational problems, everything will look out of proportion and
you will end up wasting a lot of money.
Choose your scale BEFORE you spend any money on anything. Much will depend on the space
you have available – now and in the future.
Each model train scale has its own unique advantages. If you want the scenery to dominate the
trains, or if you have only very limited space, look closely at N scale. HO scale (OO gauge in the
UK is similar) is the most common choice explaining why hobby shops usually have a wider range
of locomotives, cars, and accessories. The minimum radius for an HO scale curve is 18″, meaning
a complete loop of track can fit on a standard 4 x 8-foot sheet of plywood.
And, if you have plenty of space and want your trains to really be the stars of the show, you could
consider an O scale layout.
Space availability is perhaps the most important consideration when selecting your scale. You’ll
need enough room for the curves not to be too tight, and for the track not to be too steep. The
tunnels need to be big enough for trains to get through without hitting the tunnel roof or sides. And,
you need to be able to recover a train that derails inside the tunnel.
Remember too, that although the smaller scales save on space, they are fiddlier to handle and
require good eye-hand coordination.
Whatever scale you decide remember to get the proportions right between the various elements on
the layout. The trees need to be in proportion to the people, vehicles, trains, and buildings. Scaling
mistakes are common with beginners, so take care to calculate the correct sizing before buying or
building something.
Here is a link to a handy Scale Calculator Tool.
http://www.modelbuildings.org
You’ll find the tool listed under “Useful Tools” at the top of the webpage.
It allows you to scale from real size to scale size, or from scale size back to real size.
Another common mistake for new-comers to the hobby is to confuse scale with gauge.
Basically, the scale is the proportion of the scaled model to the real thing (prototype). As an
example; An HO scale building (or locomotive) is 1/87 the size of the real thing. Expressed another
way, the model is 87 times smaller than the real building (or locomotive).
The gauge is the width between the inside of the rails.
Mistake #4 - Lack of planning, purpose
and direction
Lack of proper planning is arguably the biggest mistake many beginners (and even experienced
hobbyists) make.
It is critical you make the concept decisions
before you get started. Decide and era and
location you want to model and focus on
replicating it in everything you buy or build.
Yes, you can design your layout with no
particular theme or era in mind, but a layout
like that can start to look confusing, as
though it was thrown together without much
thought. However, it is YOUR layout and
you do what you want. The important thing
is to have fun!
Personally I would recommend you stop and think BEFORE you rush in doing something you
might later regret. Avoid the urge to have your model trains running as soon as possible… don’t
rush in to construct the first type of layout that occurs to you. This can be a big mistake.
Don’t find out too late that you have committed yourself to a design which is not going to be of long
term interest. Worse still, discover halfway through construction that you would have been better
off to have adopted a different plan, even to have constructed a different railroad altogether. So
make a list and try to consider everything (or at least as many things as you possibly can). Things
like:
➔ Will you be operating modern high stack trains, or just 40-foot freight cars with roof
walks from an earlier era?
➔ Will the rolling stock you want to buy operate reliably on your curves? Will you need
tight radius curves like 18" in HO scale, or 9" in N scale? Or will you have wide 36" HO
scale curves with easements?
Having a model railroad is not just about trains running around in a circle (or oval). Every railroad
needs a reason to exist. For real railroads it is about making money and moving people or freight
efficiently to achieve that goal.
Although a model railroad is not about making money, it does need to have a purpose apart from
just the fun of constructing it. The railroad needs to be running through the landscape for a reason.
The buildings and structures need to be appropriate for the scene. Roads need to be positioned
logically, trees and vegetation need to appear to be growing as if they were real life, and rivers or
streams need to flow naturally (even though they might be made from hardened resin). And, every
railroad needs people and activity just like in a real life scene. Bring all these elements together
and the scene will start to come to life.
Operation of the railroad should be just as much fun as building the layout and scenery.
Unfortunately when trains just go round and around with no real purpose it can be very easy to
lose interest. If the trains have no real place to go to, and no real reason for going there, then it is
easy to get bored.
The interest level usually increases when a
task has a purpose, so basing your railroad
around how a prototype railroad might
operate is a way to give your model a
purpose.
Trains won’t just be moving from one end of
the layout to the other for the fun of it; they
will be doing a job by moving people or
freight… and making money for the railroad
you are basing your model on.
Cars will need to be sorted ready for unloading
and loading, before hooking up to another train
destined for another location. The simple way
to do this would be to just lift the car off the
track and hook it on to another…but that’s not
how a real railroad would operate.
They have sidings, lead tracks, classification
yards, interchanges… the list goes on. They all
have a purpose and that’s why operating a
railroad (real or model), is so interesting.
Everything happens for a reason and needs to
operate efficiently and on time.
Toy trains go round and round in circles, whereas model railroads are more likely to be theme
based, or be working model replicas of real (prototype) railroads.
However, there are exceptions; freelancing is when you model what you want without necessarily
staying faithful to a real (prototype) railroad or location. You can create your own railroad names,
track design, and even develop histories to support your own unique layout. You can buy
undecorated cars or kits and then add decals for your own railroad.
That’s just a sample of things to consider. Each decision will have a bearing on how your railroad
looks, operates, and develops. The best and most satisfying layouts are almost always the result of
a considerable amount of planning. This can appear frustrating at first, however most model
railroaders soon discover that planning and research can be a lot of fun. It is usually well worth the
time and effort involved in getting things right from day one.
Recommended Resources:
http://www.model-train-help.com
Mistake #5 - Benchwork gone wrong
Mistakes when constructing benchwork can be difficult to rectify, so it’s best to avoid them in the
first place.
Here are some things to consider and mistakes to avoid:
 Will anything you do be a safety risk that could potentially result in an accident or
fire? Will the use of materials such as foam void your house insurance?
 How much weight will the structure need to support? Will it cope with the weight
now and in the future? Will you ever need to climb over or stand on the benchwork?
 Will the benchwork be stable? Shaking and movement can derail trains.
 Are the aisles wide enough for you and other operators? Not having aisle room to
pass another operator can be very frustrating. Narrow aisles can restrict walkaround
control.
 Can all areas of the layout be easily accessed from either from the layout edge or
from underneath? Not being able to access a derailed car causes problems.
 How will humidity affect the layout? Will the sub-roadbed bend or buckle?
 How will the changes in elevation (vertical displacement) affect train operations?
Sudden changes in track angles can uncouple and derail cars.
 Is it practical now (and in the future) to crawl underneath or "duck-under" benchwork
access areas, or to operate from a pit? Is there an easier way to do things?
 Is the layout the right height for you? An uncomfortable height can spoil the fun
especially if you develop back problems.
 Are you making best use of the under layout space. Can areas be used for storage
or will this make accessibility difficult?
 Are you ever going to move house and relocate? What happens to your layout
then? Does it need to be built in modules to make it portable?
Mistake #6 - Making gradients too steep
and curves too tight
It’s no fun when a train comes off the track especially if it gets damaged, and there are
several ways to avoid this happening. Obviously keeping the track and train wheels in
good condition, free from dust and dirt, is a good starting point. Track joins and alignment
are other obvious areas to keep a close eye on. Other factors affecting operational
efficiency include: curve radius, clearances, and gradients.
Curves
When building a model railroad, curves are a necessary part of the design. There’s no
point in spending hours laboriously creating curves and gradients, pinning down the track,
laying the ballast… only to have your trains derail on the first run. Maybe it’s just the longer
passenger cars that derail, but that’s still very frustrating and will limit what trains you can
run. Unfortunately this is a very common mistake beginners make, and the problem can
take hours and hours to fix.
The key is to spend time planning and to be
aware of the scale limitations. Always run your
fully loaded trains (including long passenger
trains) before you pin down the track or lay the
ballast. It is easier to fix the problem before you
progress too far.
Using HO scale as the example, a radius of 48” (or more) would be ideal. However, few
layouts have that sort of space available, so working in a tighter space is the reality. The
following is a guide only.
HO scale:
 Preferred minimum radius 32”
 Conventional radius 24”
 Sharp curve radius 18”
N scale:
 Preferred minimum radius 16”
 Conventional radius 13”
 Sharp curve radius 10”
O scale:
 Preferred minimum radius 56”
 Conventional radius 50”
 Sharp curve radius 34”
Make your minimum radius a little larger than it absolutely needs to be, and you’ll have no
regrets later.
Gradients
Model railroads often look more interesting when a second level is added, even if it is just
a tunnel cutting through a mountain in one corner of the layout. The problem arises when
trains need to climb a gradient to reach the second level and then descend the other side.
That’s where they can come to a grinding halt or derail. The gradient might be too steep
for the train.
It is usually best to keep the track under a 3% gradient (3 inch rise in 100 inches) to avoid traction
problems or constant derailments. A 2.5% gradient is often used. The steepness you can get away
with will depend what type of trains you expect to operate. A four unit diesel train should handle a
much steeper gradient than a single steam engine. Also, longer trains will be harder to pull up
grades than shorter trains.
Curves on a steep grade can also be problematic. However, most mountain railroads need curves
for trains to climb to heights. A tighter curve will create more friction on the wheels which will affect
the locomotive’s pulling power. The same is true of curves on level track, but to a lesser extent.
Clearances
Not allowing for proper clearances is
another frustrating mistake to be
avoided. Trains need to be able to run
smoothly through tunnels without hitting
the roof or sides. There needs to be
enough space between the tracks so
that trains don’t collide or scrape each
other when they pass.
Things to consider:
➔ Length of rolling stock you want to operate
➔ Height of rolling stock you want to operate
➔ Width of rolling stock you want to operate
➔ Space between tracks or scenery objects to allow you to pick up a derailed car, etc,
without causing damage
➔ Available space vs. your desired track arrangement
Watch the helpful Scenery & Construction Techniques video at
http://www.model-train-layouts.net
Mistake #7 - Expanding your layout too
quickly
This is a big mistake newcomers make. The enthusiasm is high and it becomes a race to
complete the layout.
The problem with this is that beginners are still learning and are yet to master many of the
skills required to build a reliably operating, realistic looking railroad. Without the right
knowledge it is easy to waste a lot of money buying the wrong equipment. That leads to
frustration and the potential to lose interest in the project.
From my experience it is best to start out with a small inexpensive layout… maybe a small
shelf-mounted layout, or the easy to construct 4ft x 8ft bench design. Maybe add an
extension at a later stage when your interest and experience grows.
Mistake #8 - Buying the wrong equipment
The biggest cost when constructing a layout is the equipment and accessories, so the first
step is to decide if you will be operating DCC or another system.
The initial outlay may be higher with DCC, but it generally works out better value in the
longer term. With DCC you’re able to communicate with each locomotive individually,
allowing each to be given its own commands independent of the operation of other
locomotives. You can operate with realistic sounds and lights.
The wiring with DCC is a lot simpler
than with DC. You don’t have toggle
switches, so you can watch the trains
run instead of messing with a control
panel full of toggle switches. However, it
is important to select the system that
you personally enjoy operating, not
what other prefer.
Recommended DCC resource http://www.dccmodeltrains.org
Buying locomotives for a layout can be costly, with many priced into hundreds of dollars.
Starting with one or two reasonably good quality locos is often the best way to go.
Expanding your collection later is an option, but the first thing is to focus on up skilling so
that you know exactly what track and electrical components you’ll need.
It is easy to get carried away when looking at those impressive photos in the glossy model
RR magazines, surfing the net, or when visiting a local hobby shop or train show. It is easy
to make a mistake and not realize until you unwrap it from the box.
Ask yourself:
 Do you really need it? Is it within your budget?
 Does the loco or rolling stock fit the theme or era you are modeling?
 Is the loco or rolling stock from a railroad that you want to represent on your
layout?
 How realistic is the model? What about the detailing? Will it need much
weathering?
 Will it be just for display purposes, or will you operate and handle it?
Mistake #9 - Inattention to detail and lack
of organization
For a railroad to operate efficiently there needs to be systems in place. The layout and
working space needs to be well organized. You don’t want to be knocking things over
because they are in the wrong place, or have trains lying around where they could get
damaged.
You will need to know the ins and outs of how
the various components work and how the
wiring is set up. The more knowledgeable and
organized you are the less likely things will go
wrong.
Attention to detail is also very important as mistakes can prove costly in terms of time
wasted and money spent trying to rectify problems. It is usually best to do a job once and
do it right, rather than have to spend time constantly trying to fix problems or trying to find
things. Little details can make a big difference to the smooth running of a model railroad be
it the amount and type of oil applied to train gears, or the amount of solder that is used to
join track. Little mistakes can lead to big problems!
Attention to detail is also needed when it comes
to creating and positioning scenery – trees,
buildings, bridges, tunnels, rivers, backdrops
etc.
When something looks wrong it can affect the
overall look of the entire layout. Little details and
effective weathering techniques can add greatly
to the appearance and realism in a scene.
We all make mistakes (that is how we learn), but unfortunately lack of attention to detail is
a cause of many problems, especially for beginners in a hurry to get their layout up and
running.
Mistake #10 - Poor track work
Regardless of which trains are to be operated, good
track work is so critical for the smooth running of any
railroad. After all, the track is what keeps the trains
upright and from crashing on the floor. Without proper
track work the trains not only run the risk of derailing but
also could run erratically if the power flow is affected
causing “dead spots.”
Take the time to make sure everything is level and joins
together as it should. If there are problems; check to see
if the joiners are aligned, check for kinks on the right and
on the left of the track, check for vertical bumps or dips.
If the track has moved, carefully work it back into the
correct position. Fastening the track down with small nails
helps avoid this problem from happening again. The rail
joiners can also be soldered to stop them from shifting.
In some cases the track becomes out of gauge. This can happen when too much force is used
when fastening the track. It is sometimes easier to replace a section of damaged track rather than
try and repair it.
Get 24/7 access to 100's of clever model railroading ideas, and step-by-step tutorials to
help you build the model train layout of your dreams
http://www.modeltrainclub.org/club.html
Mistake #11 - Lack of proper maintenance
Model railroads need care and attention if they are to remain in good condition and function
reliably. Dust, dirt, grime (and even pet hairs) can be the hobbyist’s worst enemy. The track and
trains all need to be kept clean and in good working condition, otherwise problems will start
occurring.
Anything with moving parts will need attention from time to time, and locomotives fall into that
category.
Here are 4 common problems:
1. Poor Performance: Inspect for dust, dirt, hair particles, or a build-up of crud. Also
inspect the wheel treads, between the wipers and on the rear of wheels.
2. Tight or Worn: Check for any damaged or missing parts. Inspect the springs and
carbon brushes.
3. Smoking or Sparking: This could be an indication of too much grease and/or oil.
4. Wheel Alignment: Even if the wheels are in gauge they could be misaligned front
to back. The universals could be misaligned.
Mistake #12 - Not seeking the right help
Many beginners (and experienced hobbyists) try to do too much by trial and error. Whilst this works
in some cases, it can be problematic and wasteful in terms of time and money. Although it is
tempting to spend hundreds of dollars on a new locomotive or fancy piece of equipment, it is
equally important to invest time and some money up skilling as this will pay dividends in long run.
Unfortunately many in the hobby make the mistake of always trying to work things out or resolve
problems for themselves, when often the solutions are readily available.
The Online Model Train Club is a good example. It is like a giant resource library with hundreds of
useful tips and ideas on how to do things correctly and how to solve problems. Members can
access the resources 24 hours a day, seven days a week from anywhere in the world. Each month
members get access to more and more resources. Have a sneak peek inside the club and see
what you can tap into.
The three short videos can be accessed using this link
http://www.modeltrainclub.org/club.html
Now let’s look at 12 helpful and clever techniques to help you build and operate a better layout…
Technique #1 - Plan for comfort and
flexibility
Plan for comfort because, you will probably spend thousands of hours at your layout. Any
operating session can easily run for 2-4 hours or even longer, so comfort is important.
Arrange some seating because standing for long periods on concrete floors is not good for
the body. Consider carpeting where possible, and cover it with pliable rubber matting. The
off-duty crews will also need a comfortable crew lounge so they can rest in comfort and
prepare for the next shift.
Stay in ‘walk-around’ control. Gone are the days
of sitting in a central control pit and watching the
trains go around. Now it is all about operation.
The engineer needs to be able to follow
alongside the train, so ‘walk-around’ control is
an important consideration when building a
model train layout.
Pictured are some DCC controllers.
However, even ‘walk-around’ designs can be compromised when a track cuts through the
base of a peninsula, keeping the engineer from following the train. Command control has
made ‘walk-around’ operation much easier to achieve on a railroad layout. Radio and infrared wireless throttles, which avoid ‘plug-and-chug’ crew movement, are becoming
increasingly popular.
Technique #2 – Simple tools for creating
curves
Most model railroads have curves, so it is
important to know what radius is needed for
smooth running and to avoid derailments. The
next thing is to work out whether the curve will
fit where you want it to go, and then to draw it
to see how it looks.
There are various ways to do this including using a flexible curve ruler (pictured) to form
the required curve. Securing one end of some twine to a nail and the other end to a pencil
is another way to draw a neat curve. I made a radius tool from a wooden yard ruler. I
inserted a nail at the 1" mark and drilled several holes at various intervals along the ruler. I
then poke a pencil into a hole to scribe a curve. For example, if I want a 22" radius, I drill
the hole at 23" (22" from the nail). As any carpenter will tell you “measure twice, cut once.”
It is simple advice, but well worth remembering.
Technique #3 - Mixing model paints to the
right color
Mixing paint colors can be a bewildering task for most model railroaders. That’s why hobby
stores carry usually carry such a big range of colors (to save the problem of mixing).
However, with experience you can get really proficient at mixing your own colors (without
wasting lots of paint in the process).
The key to color mixing is to begin with the lightest colors and gradually add a drop or two
of the darker color(s) until you have the shade you want. Don’t do this the other way
around otherwise you will waste a lot of paint trying to get the color you want. Mix the
colors frequently, and then let the paint dry on a piece of white card so you can judge the
color accurately.
You might want to buy a color wheel from your local art
store. As a general rule, you should try to combine the
fewest number of colors to achieve the color you want
for the model. This will help keep the colors from
becoming muddy.
Technique #4 - Soldering track made easy
Poor solder joints can be a big time waster and cause endless electrical problems on a
layout.
The commonest cause for poor solder
joints is surface contamination and
insufficient heat in the right place. The
soldering iron needs to be hot enough
for the flux to sizzle and boil just prior to
applying the solder. Surfaces which are
not clean, but covered with a layer of
oxide, or dirt, or paint will not solder.
Clean surfaces with isopropyl alcohol.
Use a pink pencil eraser to remove
oxidation.
This unit has a temperature control.
The next most common cause of bad solder joints is a failure to “tin” the iron with solder
before applying it to the part to be soldered. The liquid layer of solder on the tip allows
much better transfer of heat to the parts to be soldered.
The heat must be passed to the rail to achieve a good joint. Timing is critical, because if
you take too long, the plastic ties (sleepers) could melt. Practicing on a spare piece of rail
is a great idea!
Keeping the solder iron tip in first class condition is critical if you want to achieve sound
solder joints. Tip problems are easily prevented by always keeping the tip tinned with a thin
coating of solder.
To clean the tip, use a small wet sponge and wipe the tip with it after every solder joint.
Melt a little solder on the tip and wipe it again. This will make the tip shiny and much more
efficient.
After you have finished soldering, always clean the tip and then apply a coating of solder
prior to switching the iron off.
More Resources:
Model Railroading
Scenery Construction
Techniques
Getting Started in N scale Space Saving N Scale
Model Railroading
Track Plans
Scenery & Layout Construction
Ideas
Watch the videos and get these excellent ebooks at
http://www.model-train-layouts.net
Technique #5 – Ideas for painting
structures
I always use flat (not glossy) acrylic paints for painting structures. The trick is to paint the parts
(either with an airbrush or using a paint brush) BEFORE installing them. This is really important,
because most adhesives will prevent the paint from sticking, or the washes from soaking in. It is
easier to paint a structure before assembling or installing it in place. You shouldn’t have to lean
over your layout to paint a structure as this is uncomfortable and will result in a messy job.
Usually start by painting the lightest colors
first, before painting the darker colors. It is
generally easier to touch up lighter colors
with darker tones, rather than the other way
around.
However, in saying that, there are exceptions to the rule. Thin washes of light paint colors can
sometimes add an excellent weathered look when applied over dark colors. I have seen this done
on the sides of rolling stock wagons and on brick walls where thinned washes of light browns and
light reds are applied over black paint.
A little trick I use is to apply some paint on an old rag and then drag the strip-wood through your
fingers while holding the rag. This can give the effect of well aged paint.
Technique #6 - Ways to add reality to a
scene
Sometimes it only takes one thing to look artificial, or out of place, for the whole layout to lose its
character and authentic look. It’s often the little details that draw the viewer into the scene to
convince them it is real (or at least an extremely good scale replica). Fact is; vegetation and
structures can help or hinder the overall perception of reality.
The grass, trees, weeds, and bushes all need to look natural as if they were growing out in the
wild. Bright colors can have a place such as in a Fall (Autumn) scene, but generally vivid colors
need to be used sparingly, as they can over-power a scene or make the vegetation look unnatural.
Structures also need to look as if they have been exposed to climatic conditions. Although not
everything needs to look old or worn, indications of natural weathering or usage can give buildings
and bridges and authentic appearance, as opposed to a plastic look. Various weathering
techniques such as chalk and India Ink washes can add amazing realism when skilfully applied.
Another option is to buy structures
that are pre-weathered or ones that
already include realistic detailing. It
may surprise you to know the
frontage of the building pictured
here, is in fact a model. I’m sure
you’ll agree it looks just like the kind
of warehouse you would expect to
see in an industrial area servicing a
railroad.
Samples of the 60+ realistic model buildings available at
http://www.modelbuildings.org
➔ The website uses a special tool so you can have a really close-up look at the fine detailing
on each building before you buy. They are amazingly sturdy when constructed.
➔ The buildings are downloaded to your computer in PDF format and you can make several
buildings from each plan if you want to.
➔ Look for the special multi-pack buys and BIG bundle deals with savings of between 35%
and 67%!
Technique #7 – Clever ideas for a
backdrop
When you think about it, a backdrop can have just about as much surface area as the model
railroad itself. That’s why a backdrop is an integral part for any layout. Having a perpendicular
orientation to your line of sight requires special thought.
In real life we view things in 3D, yet when you add anything extra to a backdrop (apart from blue
sky), there is always the risk the backdrop will lose the 3D illusion. Painting clouds, mountains, and
structures onto the background can look effective when viewed straight on. When viewed from a
different angle however, the illusion of 3D can suddenly be lost.
Here are some tips for creating effective backdrops:
Keep the horizon low and make sure anything that is supposed to be vertical is vertical e.g.
telegraph poles, people, trees, buildings etc. Avoid abrupt horizon lines. Use trees, buildings, hills,
or bridges to hide the meeting line where the vertical backdrop meets the horizontal layout.
Although you won’t want everything to look artificially perfect, you also won’t want the eye to be
drawn to something that looks out of place e.g. a dark blue sky.
Buildings painted on a background can sometimes look okay when there are other buildings or
features in front of them. Otherwise it is best to design the buildings to stand out from the backdrop
in low relief with the front and part of a couple of the sides showing. This can help achieve a
credible 3D effect.
The buildings shown here
are low relief buildings
made from core flute.
Foam core can be used
instead.
Both materials are very
inexpensive to buy and
are readily obtainable from
Hardware DIY stores.
To view the range of inexpensive model buildings and take a close-up look at the fine detailing on
these and other low relief buildings click this link
http://www.modelbuildings.org
The site also has a big selection of 3D model buildings and has big savings of between 35% and
67% when you buy multiple buildings.
Technique #8 – Providing a sense of
perspective
To give the illusion of distance - objects need to be graded by size with the bigger items in front
and the smaller scale ones behind. Strong colors stand out and the softer ones fade away into the
distance. So avoid deep or bright colors for the sky. Light muted shades work best. Soften and
lighten the distant colors. Avoid sharp edges or too much detailing on distant objects.
There are basically 4 rules:
1. Lower objects appear to be further away.
2. Higher objects seem closer
So, grade the sizes of the items, bigger in front, smaller scale ones behind.
3. Distant objects have softer edges
4. Distant objects appear to be grayer
So, soften the colors of distant objects. Strong colors stand out, softer ones
fade away. Also, as the trees, bushes, etc recede into the ‘distance’, make them
more fuzzy, less sharp and less detailed.
If you are interested in OO gauge or HO scale watch
the video at
http://www.hoscalelayouts.com
Technique #9 - Cabling and coding wires
I have used several inexpensive techniques for
keeping wiring together. The wires still need to
be easily accessed if you need to add or
remove a wire. This photo shows some of the
methods I have used. I only add a plastic cable
tie when I’m finished wiring the cable. If you
are using metal screw eyes it is worth opening
the neck slightly so you can remove, add, or
simply move a wire.
You could keep a book or a computer document with all your wiring details listed. The other option
is to code the wires at the terminal strips. You can purchase little stick-on lettering and numbers
that you can wrap around the wires. A black marker pen will also work on masking tape. Another
solution is to cut small rectangles of white card (or paper) about an inch bigger than your terminal
strips. You then position them behind each strip, although it is usually easiest to write the
information on the card before you hook up the wires.
Technique #10 – Connecting Wires
There are various methods for connecting wires ranging from suitcase connectors that pinch into
the wire, to the popular screw-type terminal strips. Some hobbyists prefer using spade lugs. If you
don’t have any spade lugs you can put a little solder onto the end of the stranded wire and bend it
to form a "J" shape to install on the terminal.
If your intention is to use multiple connector wire,
then stagger the splices. This will to help prevent
short circuits by keeping the wires visually apart.
You can use electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, or
some liquid electrical tape (get it from an
automotive store - there are several brands
available). Liquid electrical tape can be messy to
use but works well. It will drip and take time to
harden, so care is needed. Some brands come
with a brush, but you might prefer to use a
toothpick for applying it in delicate places. Seal the
can securely between uses as it will dry out if air
gets in.
Technique #11 – A good way to apply
ballast
There are some different ways to apply ballast. Here is one I’ve used.
Apply the ballast dry and use a small 1/2 inch brush to spread the ballast. Start by spreading it
between the rails. Make sure that the ballast is exactly where you want it and not too thick. This
especially applies to areas around the moving parts of the turnouts and switches. Take care not to
put too much between the rail, the guide rails, and the frogs. Before doing anything else – double
check all areas to see that you are happy with the coverage.
When you’re happy with the result; spray on 70% isopropyl alcohol as the wetting agent for the
ballast (instead of water). Apply it as a very light mist so it can slowly rain down on the ballast area.
The alcohol will prevent the capillary action of the water, allowing the glue to flow more freely
through the ballast
Use an eyedropper to soak the ballast stones using a
mixture of white glue and alcohol in 50-50 proportion. It
will need to soak down through all of the stones to
secure them in place.
For areas outside the rails you can use masking tape to
get a tidy even edge.
After the ballast is thoroughly dry, lightly stick some masking tape over the ballast before applying
the scenic materials. Gently pull the masking tape over itself so that it does not shift or pull any of
the material off. Experiment on a less visible area to perfect your skills before ballasting a big
stretch of track.
Highly Recommended Resources:
http://www.dccmodeltrains.org
Technique #12 - People bring a layout to
life
Make sure any vehicles and rail crossings
are from the right era. One idea is black
washing the grilles and hubcaps to add
depth and realism. Using a small brush you
can also paint tail-lights, parking lights and
door handles if needed.
The people in this photo are watching a
sporting event… that’s why they are sitting
on the vehicles.
Then consider taking the cars apart and install drivers and passengers. Nothing looks more fake
on a layout than vehicles seemingly driven by invisible ghosts! You can purchase miniature figures
in male, female and child variations all molded in ‘flesh’ color. The arms must be attached by
gluing. Then the figures can be painted. Sometimes, the figures won’t fit between the steering
wheel and the seat. It sounds a bit cruel but you simply cut the legs off with pliers and they fit just
fine.
Use flat (rather than glossy) model paint to make painted clothing and hair look real. Keep things to
the right scale relative to the trains.
There’s always something new to learn. The important thing is to keep an open mind and never
stop learning… and above all, have fun.
Happy Railroading!
Robert Anderson
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DISCLAIMER: The Author, Market Leaders Ltd, the Publishers, and anyone associated with this special report, do not accept any
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accuracy of the information for yourself and seek proper professional advice before embarking on construction or electrical work. First
published 1999. Updated 2015.