2nd half - Hill View Farms

Transcription

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HILL VIEW FARMS ® LLC
41564 CO RD 4
Morgan, MN 56266
Phone 507-723-5937 fax 305-723-5931
e-mail: [email protected]
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www.hillviewfarms.com
Pizarro’s Début
Riding or swimming ? BOTH
Kid Cathy
Pizarro’s Début
Taking 5
Going home after 2 weeks of
weaning.
Winter
camping
Machinery training
70
CAMPING RECIPES
Main Dishes continued
¼ Tsp. Pepper
1) 15 oz. Can tomato sauce
1 ½ cans of water - tomato sauce cans. Put
tomato sauce, water and seasonings in large
kettle and simmer as you make meatballs.
Mix remaining ingredients, form into balls
and put balls into sauce. Cover & simmer
slowly for 1 hour.
✄
Porcupines
2 Lbs. Ground beef
1 C. Uncooked rice
1 Tbs. Minced onion
¼ Tsp. Cinnamon
½ Tsp. Oregano
½ Tsp. Basil
1 Tsp. Salt
continued
Cowboy Goulash
1 Pkg. Prepared Mac-n-cheese
1 Lb. Ground beef
½ C. Chopped onion
1 Tbs. Chili powder
1) 16 oz. Can tomatoes
1) 16 oz. Can whole kernel corn.
Brown meat with onion, stir in chili powder,
add tomatoes with juice. Simmer 5 minutes.
Then add corn, & pour into prepared mac –
n- cheese and mix well. Serve.
Sonia’s Easy Meat Loaf
2 Lbs. Ground beef
2 eggs
1 ½ C. Bread crumbs
¾ C. Catsup
1 Tsp. Accent - optional
½ C. Milk
1 Pkg. Onion soup mix
1) 8 oz. Can tomato sauce or salsa
Mix all except tomato sauce. Pat into
greased casserole. Cover with sauce. Bake
uncovered at 350 degrees for 1 hour.
BBQ
1 Lb. Ground beef
½ C. Chopped onion
½ C. Chopped celery
½ C. Chopped green pepper
1-2 cloves chopped garlic
¼ - ½ C. Salsa
1 Tsp. Mustard
½ Tsp. Paprika
½ C. Catsup
1 C. Water
1 Tsp. Pepper & 1 Tea. Salt
1 Tbs. Worchester sauce
2 Tbs. Vinegar
2 Tbs. Brown sugar
½ Tsp. Chili powder
1 Tbs. Parsley
Horse radish – optional
1 Tsp. Liquid smoke
Brown meat with vegetables.
Add
remaining ingredients and simmer to desired
thickness about ~ 1 hour and serve on buns.
Flank Steak
Cut against grain into long one-inch strips
Marinate for 24 hours in:
¾ C. Oil
2/3 C. Water
¼ C. Soy sauce
¼ C. Soy sauce
1 Tbs. Lemon pepper
2 Tsp. Worchester sauce
4 Drops hot sauce
Roll up and secure with shish-kebab stick
Grill until done.
Cathy’s Shrimp & Fettuccine Alfredo
1 Lb. Uncooked shrimp
Boil shrimp in a can of beer with 2 bay leaves
cook until pink. Drain and serve with:
Fettuccine Alfredo: 1 lb. Fettuccine noodles
cooked. Drain and cover with sauce.
¼ C. Butter
1 Egg yolk
¼ C. Cream
½ C. Fresh grated parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste.
As noodles are cooking, beat until smooth
and pour over hot noodles.
Chicken Crunch
4 Chicken breasts, de-boned and sliced in 1inch strips
1 Can of cream of chicken soup
½ C. Milk
2 Tbs. Flour
1½ C. Seasoned breadcrumbs
2 Tbs. Melted butter
1 Tbs. Parsley
¼ C. Lemon juice
Dip chicken in flour, then dip in 1/3 C. Soup
that is mixed with ¼ C. Milk, then coat in
breadcrumbs. Place on greased sheet.
Drizzle melted butter over strips and bake at
400 for 30 minutes. Serve with sauce, made
by mixing the remaining milk, soup, and
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lemon juice, and parsley.
✄
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✄
Kisses
Denny
Biscuit sleeping - is on his chain
Watermelon anyone?
The sand pit. A favorite rolling spot in the
pasture for our horses.
How Cathy started
Cathy Training Competitive
Don & our RV
kitty taking a
“cat nap”
Four horses all sacked out on the picket line with their pajamas on. This is about the
maximum number you should have on one
string/picket line.
72
CAMPING RECIPES
continued
Main Dishes continued
Cathy’s Bratwurst Pasta
¾ Lb. Cooked pasta
¼ C. Olive oil
3 C. Frozen broccoli or fresh - steamed
2 Cans 16 oz. Whole tomatoes
1/3 C. Grated parmesan cheese
4 large cloves garlic chopped
Sauté onions and garlic, add tomatoes and
1 Med. Onion chopped
basil. Bring to low boil, add cooked and
2 Tsp. Basil
chopped brats, and broccoli, and serve over
4 to 5 brats, cooked and chopped
cooked pasta – top with cheese.
Chopped onion or green onion
Salt & pepper
Mix to desired consistency and flavor.
Serve with lettuce and bread.
✄
½ to 1 Onion chopped
½ C. Brown sugar
½ C. Catsup
Cook slowly several hours-Stir ccasionally.
✄
Beans & Weenies
2 Cans baked beans
1C. Tomatoes - canned or fresh.
2 to 8 Weenies cut up
Bake at 400 degrees for 30 min, turn and
season other side with remaining mix.
(*) Season salt is:
1 Tsp. Accent.
½ Tsp. Paprika
½ Tsp. Sugar
dash onion and garlic powder
✄
Sharon’s Egg Sandwiches
Hard boiled eggs pealed and chopped
Real mayonnaise
Sweet relish
1 Cup raw rice (To be cooked with one clove
chopped garlic and 1/4 cup peas - optional.)
Brown chicken, both sides in olive oil while
seasoning with salt and cumin. Remove.
Sauté onions and garlic, add salsa and
tomatoes. Then chicken. Simmer 15 minutes
and add lemon juice. Check seasoning.
Serve with rice
✄
Arla’s chicken wings
3 Lbs. Wings
4 Tsp. Seasoned salt (*)
1 Tsp. Lemon pepper
1 Tsp. Paprika
1 Tsp. Garlic powder
Mix and sprinkle half of mixture over wings.
✄
Cumino Chicken
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts.
1 Large chopped onion
1 Clove chopped garlic
2-4 Tsp. Cumin
½ to ¾ C. Salsa
1) 15 oz. Can stewed tomatoes
Salt to taste
Juice of one lemon (¼ cup)
Lemon Caper Chicken
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut
into one-inch slices.
½ Cup flour
1/4 cup butter
2 tsp. Chopped garlic. ( I use double that)
½ to one cup white wine or apple juice
(wine tastes better)
2 Tbs. Lemon juice (I double that)
1- 2 Tbs. Drained capers
½ tsp. Black pepper, Parsley springs or one
Tbs. dried parsley. Strawberry half’s garnish
– optional. Coat chicken with flour and
brown over medium heat in butter and garlic.
Turning once. Add wine or juice, lemon,
pepper and heat until hot (I cover for several
minutes). Then add capers, parsley and
garnish. Server with white rice that has been
cooked with chopped garlic and peas.
Fried Steak (pork or beef)
Pound 2nd grade cut of meat to ½ inch or
less in thickness. Dip into batter of: 1-cup
milk and 2 large eggs.Dip then into flour
mix of: 3 Cups flour with 1 teaspoon of
each of : salt, oregano, basil, paprika,
black pepper, ¼ tea cayenne pepper, ½ tea
(accent or laweries seasoned salt). Then
add to mix: 1 tablespoon of garlic powder
and 2 tablespoons of hidden valley dried
ranch-dressing powder. Dip back into egg
mixture and then Dip back into flour.
(Double dip all meat pieces and set on
wire rack over cookie sheet as oil is
heating. In skillet heat 2 cups corn oil or a
depth of ½ to one inch oil. Fry all meat and
turning once. When cooked put on wire
rack/ cookie sheet and place in 200-degree
oven with door ajar. Serve on burger buns
with mayo, lettuce etc. YUMMY. Option
is to make a roux and gravy served with
mashed potatoes if you do not go the
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burger route.
✄
Bella & Tony Llama “Forbidden
Love”
Sonia with Sita -“Sita’s do not like tulips”
THANK YOU
Don riding MooMoo in
Monument Valley, UT
Rhea showing off Moo Moo with her 4th of
July -Tail Tamer horse paints.
The Tauer Camp
Rhea with Sita
A blue eyed jet
black horse
Don and Stuart
Driving bucking stock with the Holloway Rodeo Clan, SD
74
CAMPING RECIPES
Breads and Biscuits
Using fork, mix dry ingredients until
crumbly. Add milk or buttermilk and * Mix
then knead on floured surface quickly with
no more than 8- to 10 folds. Press out and
cut with cup dipped in flour. Place on
greased pan or in Dutch oven. Bake at 450
degrees for 12-15 minutes.
✄
Cathy’s Biscuits (Buttermilk *)
1 ¾ C. Flour
½ Tsp. Salt
3 Tsp. Baking powder
4 to 6 Tbs. Butter
½ Tsp. Baking soda*
1 Tsp. Sugar *
¾ C. Milk or Buttermilk *
continued
Skillet corn bread
1 ¼ C. Corn meal
½ C. Four
1-2 Tbs. Sugar
1½ Tsp. Baking powder
½ Tsp. Salt
½ Tsp. Baking soda
1 egg beaten
1 C. Buttermilk
¼ C. Veg. Oil (reserve 1 Tbs.)
Combine dry ingredients, then wet. Pour 1
Tbs. Oil into iron skillet. Heat. Remove and
pour in batter. Cover and bake in fire for 1520 minutes. (425 degrees)
✄
Cathy’s Garlic Bread
French bread -sliced but not cut through
½ C. Butter
½ Tsp. Oregano
½ Tsp. Basil
½ Tea. Marjoram
¼ Tsp. Salt
4 large cloves garlic chopped fine.
Melt butter until soft with seasonings and
spread in-between slices. Wrap in foil. Bake
or grill 20 minutes at 350 degrees
Larry’s Authentic Navaho Fry Bread/Taco’s
7-8 Cups flour
4 Tbs. Baking Powder
1 Tsp. Salt
4 Cups warm water or milk (can substitute
powder milk, but adjust flour)
Mix and rest for 30 minutes
Make into patties with hands and thin out –
like a pizza crust.Lay into hot ½ inch of hot
vegetable oil and fry – flipping once. Drain
on paper towels or wire rack. Or cook by
laying on open grill - flip when needed.
Wonderful for buns or shells when folded or
serve as dessert with sugar / cinnamon.
✄
Fly Spray for horses 1
2-3 C. White Vinegar
1 C. Avon skin so soft oil
1C. Water
1 Tbs. Ecliptics oil
Mix and put in spray bottle or just mix-up
in spray bottle.
✄
Fly Spray for horses 2
½ C. Dawn blue dish washing soap
½ C. Vinegar
1C. Listerine mouth wash
1-2 tea Vanilla
½ Oz permethrin 10%
Mix in 16 oz or 24 oz bottle and will with
water.
✄
Extra’s
TIP: When using an RV type oven. Bake on an insulted air bake cookie sheet. If you can not
find an insulated air bake cookie sheet, then put your cookie sheet on top of another – doubling
them to avoid burning.
Deadwood, S.D.
Kelly’s giant puff ball. Kelly carried this
ball for miles and miles back to camp. We
sliced it up and sautéed it in butter. Or you
can dip it into beaten egg, then coat with
seasoned bread crumbs and fry.
75
The Picket Pole
and feed bag in
use
Charlie umbrella training
Ponying Cita
Summer fun
We desensitize our horses to trucks, bikes and garbage. Here Colina (age 3) is tied short to the back
of the pickup, so she can’t get her front feet under the rear tire. Driving slowly, as we walk road ditches,
Don dumps the garbage we pick up. He occasionally gives Colina a treat of grass. She learns quickly
that sometimes there is good stuff to be found while nosing through the floppy plastic, paper and noisy
aluminum cans.
The Tauer Girls
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Don packing
SADDLING
BASICS continued
YOUR HORSE'S REACTION-WHAT IS NORMAL AND WHAT IS NOT
Extreme contraction of muscle is not normal and should never be attributed to a high-strung temperament of
so-called sensitivity. When probed, the muscles should be flaccid and should produce no more reaction in
the horse than a wary expression on the face or fidgeting. Fidgeting should discontinue as soon as the horse
realizes you are not going to hurt him. "If any muscle is sore, in spasm or strained, the pain can be detected
at its origin or insertion"
Checkpoint 1: Semimembranosis (either side of the base of the tail). This muscle originates on either side
of the root of the tail. This is a long and rather narrow muscle which runs down the back of the hindquarters
beside the tail and attaches five to eight inches above the horse hock. Standing to the side of the horse's rear,
not directly behind, probe sharply as described with the tips of your first three fingers in to the muscle's
origin beside the base of the tail. The muscle should feel loose and relaxed-technically, "quiescent". The
horse should react by slightly tucking his hindquarters and slightly raising his back - both natural reflexes.
But if he is tense from soreness, he will "hump" his back and tuck his hind quarters violently and he may
even hop with both hind legs. If so, he may have a great deal of trouble directly under his saddle.
Checkpoint 2: Brachiocephalicus (from the poll to the shoulder covering the lower half of the side of the
neck). Probe the base of the neck in front of the shoulder blade about five inches above the point of the
shoulder. If your horse is sore, this muscle will jerk visibly and the horse will probably try to step away
from you or turn his head toward you, curving his neck away. He may even bend away while many related
and attached muscles jerk throughout his neck and shoulder. This muscle helps pull the humerous forward,
extending the foreleg.
Checkpoint 3: Triceps (muscle forming a wedge shape from the shoulder blade rearward to the elbow).
You'll feel this muscle as the fleshy area just to the rear of the bony ridge, which runs the length of the
shoulder blade. Probe just above the bony elbow. This is a wedge shaped muscle that is from the shoulder
blade to the elbow. If your horse is sore, he will jerk, move away and may bend his knee, all in varying
degrees, indicating a sore back. How violent the reaction depends on how sore and how much spasm his
back is in. You can also determine if your horse has been made sore by girth interference.
Check Point 1
Check Point 2
Check Point 3
Confirm your findings with palpation of the saddle area: There are three types of soreness to look for
when palpating your horse’s back. 1) Deep muscle soreness caused by excess pressure in a concentrated
area; 2) Friction soreness caused by movement of the horse under the saddle and/or by stirrup straps; 3)
Spondylosis or impingement of the spinal processes caused by jumping, rider concussion and the horse’s
traveling with his back muscles in contraction.
What to watch for: When palpating look for your horse to react in one or more of the following ways. He
may raise his head, dip his back, flatten his croup, step away from you , toss his head, pin his ears, or flick
his hide where you are palpating him as if he is ridding himself of a fly. (Termed here fly-jerk). He may
tense the muscles around your fingers, and his muscles may shudder in the area you are probing.
Remember to study his face as you are working. He may only tighten his lips, clench his teeth or have a
steely expression about his eyes. Form the time they are young horses are taught how to operate with
saddle pain. Many “old pros” will not readily admit they are hurting. That is why you must palpate
properly, know the natural reflex points and always keep an eye on the horse’s face.
Regardless, you should be able to get some kind of reaction from your horse as you palpate him. If after
studying this method carefully and applying it, you cannot illicit any response from your horse, even
when probing his natural reflex points, you can be sure your horse has severe long-term saddling
77
problems.
SADDLING
BASICS continued
Natural reflex vs. Soreness
Natural reflex points along the back, especially at the base of the withers and at the loins, cause a mild
momentary dipping or a fly-jerk reaction. If you continue holding pressure at a natural reflex, the
reaction will dissipate after a few seconds and the horse will relax. If his reaction gets worse or he
steps away after a few seconds of holding, you can be sure you have found a sore spot.
Probe gently but firmly: When probing for deep muscle bruising, replace the poking action with a firm
but steady downward pressure of 15 to 25 lbs for 10 seconds with the tips of your first three fingers or
your thumb. (Always use finger tips, never fingernails nor any narrow blunt object.) Why hold the
pressure for a full 10 seconds? Because the slight natural reflex will dissipate with in a couple of seconds,
and the horse which is not bruised will no longer show a reaction to the firm pressure. But if the horse is
sore, he will show an obvious reaction to the sustained pressure even after 10 seconds is up.
Where to Begin: Start where the arch of your saddle rests on either side of the withers. This is the
trapezius muscle. If your saddle rests farther back, it will be at the area where the trapezius meets the
longissimus dorsi. If you position the points of the tree of your saddle directly on top of the shoulder
blade, begin probing there. If a fly-jerk which continues longer than three seconds, the horse is bruised. If
your horse is very sore, he will initially give the fly-jerk reaction and then step away, dip his back
noticeably, bend his knees or toss his head. He may literally go down under sustained pressure. The horse
is severely bruised if he does any of these things. If he is not bruised, the fly-jerk will dissipate and he will
probably relax and go on munching hay for instance, while you continue to hold pressure. (Fig. #4
Rhomboid muscles, under the trapezius muscles and fig. #5 Trapezius muscles covering the rhomboids).
Continue
down
the
length of the horse's
back: Probe your horse's
back this way anywhere
the saddle rests to locate
sore areas. Very few horses
ridden extensively with
Figure 4
Figure 5
any saddle will not be sore
where the fork rests. Some
will also be sore under the
middle of the bars or panels
and some also under the rear of the saddle tree near the loins. Probing either side of the spine, moving
down the length of the back, the sore horse's reaction will be slight; if very sore his back will drop sharply.
Probing the loins: When probing the loin area be on the lookout for friction soreness which will cause
the horse to flatten his croup or drop his back. With deep bruising the horse will continue to show pain
when pressure is applied longer than 15 seconds. So, If he continues to show pain or steps away from
you, he has deeper damage. If, on the other hand, it is only friction soreness ( the palpation technique for
which is explained below) then the reaction doesn't normally last any longer than the count of 5.
Palpating for friction soreness: Friction soreness is easily
spotted and frequently called "ticklishness," because horses react
to it when being brushed or touched lightly. (This maybe the case,
but you must test to see if indeed, your horse has true friction
soreness.) Since riders may not see shaved hair, sores, or swelling,
they deduce that their horses are ticklish. It is also the most
overrated type of soreness because most veterinarians at
endurance races and competitive trail rides can easily spot it while
missing deep muscle bruising, which is far more serious. To
palpate for friction soreness, spread apart your fingers and curve
them as if you are about to play the piano. With about three
pounds of pressure run your fingers down the horse’s back from the front to the rear, beginning on either
side of the spine and alternating your way downward until all saddle contact areas have been covered. The
sore horse will dip his back or flatten his croup or step away when you pass over a sore area. (Fig. #6.)
Figure 6
Detecting spondylosis: Spondylosis deformans goes largely undetected in many horses suffering from
it. It is characterized by irritation, pain, swelling or degeneration of the periosteum (surface) of the dorsal
spinal processes. This occurs when the articulation surfaces of the vertebrae or tops of the spinal
processes rub together (impinge) when the horse’s back hollows excessively. The impingement usually
happens between the 10th and 17th thorasic vertebrae when caused by improper saddling and
78 riding. It is very common in distance racing horses, who are allowed to travel great distances with
SADDLING
BASICS continued
hollow backs and heads up. It is also common in jumping horses
who suffer vertebral impingement by the propulsion created by the
hind quarters when starting the jump with all the back muscles
contracted at the same time. The test for spondylosis is simple.
Spondylosis
How to check for
Spondylosis: Beginning
at the base of the wither,
with three or four fingertips in line with the middle of the spine,
press downward and hold. While maintaining a minimum of 1020 lbs of pressure, slide your fingers toward the croup. No
matter how hard you press, there should be no reaction! If the
Normal spine
horse raises his head noticeably, dips his back or tries to drop to
the ground, he is suffering. A very sore horse will be able to tolerate only light pressure here before
dropping his back or bending his knees. Spondylosis is extremely painful and use of the horse must be
stopped immediately as it can create a very unpredictable and sometimes explosive animal. With
continued use, the body will form false joints of calcification between the spinal processes. Next, the
vertebrae fuse in a condition called ankylosis, nature’s way of alleviating pain, which also results in a
stiffer, nonathletic horse. If you do experience any reaction from palpating your horse’s spine, contact a
veterinarian for medical treatment and consultation, for you may not have spondylosis but other issues
that will need to be resolved before you ride your animal again.
Always extend the foreleg to probe the rear edge of the scapula
Another important point to probe for bruising is often missed by
veterinarians and therapists and unknown by horsemen: the rear process of
the scapula called the "cartilage of prolongation".
When the horse extends his leg forward, his scapula rotates up to four
inches to the rear. It is in this rotation that it strikes-or must squeeze underthe arch of the saddle, however padded. The scapula takes incredible
punishment, especially during jumping and the sitting trot. Yet when the
horse is standing still, one cannot probe the "fin" of cartilage, because it is
hidden under muscle bulk. It can be extremely damaged and can cause
lameness which is never diagnosed, because it can not be palpated when the
horse is standing square.
Figure 7
How to: Have a helper stand in front of the horse and elevate the front hoof (leg straight) to normal
extension, such as during extended trot or gait. Firmly probe the rear of the shoulder blade now. Often,
horses which showed no soreness when standing square, nearly go to the ground when probed on this
otherwise hidden cartilage of prolongation.
Figure 10
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 8: Find rear edge of the scapula with your fingertips
Figure 9: Trace around the scapula with a piece of chalk or spit on your finger and wipe the wetness onto
the shoulder for a visual outline
Figure 10: Have a helper elevate and extend the foreleg and again find the rear of the scapula, tracing
around it. Notice how far the scapula has rotated to the rear. Be sure your saddle doesn’t interfere with
this rotation.
Conclusion: If, after studying these methods carefully and applying them and you cannot illicit any
response from your horse, even when probing his natural reflex points, you can be sure your horse has
severe long-term issues. He is locked up and is blocking all stimuli. Therefore, contact a professional for
further assistance.
HILL VIEW FARMS
• 866-723-5937
79
S ADDLING
BASICS continued
Discover What a Saddle Should Be
The purpose of a saddle is to offer the rider support and to distribute the rider’s weight - efficiently
over a large surface area.
The Delrin spring panels are positioned between the hard tree and the horse. These thin flexible panels are
attached to the tree with mountings that provide a ball and socket effect allowing the skirts to flex at
different angles from front to rear. (When the horse turns the panel flexes in an arc on the side of the turn
and straightens on the opposite side). The panels move with the horse, allowing freedom of movement,
preventing painful pressure points which can be the cause of bad behavior, resistance to training and poor
performance. A rider will never know how it feels to be saddled but still wants the horse to be as
comfortable as possible.
To check saddle fit you need TWO people. Begin
saddling by using a thin pillowcase or no pad at all.
Check for clearance between the tree and spine of the
horse. One person can now mount up. The other will
re-check for spine clearance as well as clearance
between the tree and the panels. The person on the
ground will slide their hand under the front middle and
rear of the saddle (both sides), checking for even
pressure as the horse is moved in a figure 8 pattern.
Notice how the saddlelooks uneven
Notice that the
without weight in the saddle. With the
saddle without a
rider in the saddle, no pad or shims the
rider
sits
saddle fit was perfect. We then added the
uneven, as the
pad and rode.
panels in a
natural state will
be straight. It is ONLY when weight is in the saddle that the panels
will conform to the horses back. For details saddle fitting and
After a 3-hour ride, a perfect palpation purchase the all about saddling video on
sweat pattern (horse had no page 7 .
prior issues). We palpated
before and after riding and Different and changing back shapes!
the horse passed saddle fit
evaluation.
Colina at start
of riding season
Wide withers
and back
Photo is flipped
as a mirror
image.
80
Asymmetrical, narrow
withers that will require shimming.
Colina at end of riding season
Above is, Colina age 3 at the start of the riding season, then after
five months of riding and maturing. Look how her top-line and
withers have changed. I never had to change or adjust my saddle.
It did it all on it’s own. Young horses will continue to change and
grow until the age of approximately 5 years, after that they will
change but more slowly as they mature, age, gain and loose weight.
Therefore, as a responsible horse owner you must make sure your
saddle fits your horse as he changes throughout the year and
through his years of life.
SADDLE - EVOLUTIONARY SADDLES ™
Ask yourself... Why do I want a flexible panel system?
This question is easy to answer. Experts tell us that approximately 80 to 90% – perhaps even more – of
all horses have back problems. Unqualified riders may cause some of the problem, but the overwhelming
majority are due to ill-fitting saddles. Some riders may think this figure too high, but this is probably
because many riders are completely unaware of the problems their horses are suffering from. Saddle
pressure is still often equated with the appearance of white hair, swelling, edema and dry spots.
By the time these symptoms appear, saddle pressure limits may already have been exceeded and irrevocable damage already been done to the horse’s tissue. Saddle pressure begins much earlier. To recognize it
(and to be willing to recognize it), the rider must observe the horse and judge its actions and reactions. A
little prodding and probing of the horse’s body will give the best chance of finding and localizing problems. This procedure of physical palpation is far more advantageous than anything on the market. It is
more accurate and economical than any computer measurement. It is easy too. It is hands on, right now,
right there with your horse.
Some riders choose not to acknowledge these problems, for if they did, they might have a troubled
conscience – not to mention problems with animal welfare legislation. But there are also many that
recognize that their horse has some sort of problem with its existing saddle. However, instead of addressing the cause, they soothe their conscience with a variety of products such as; wonder pads, gel pads, airride pads, layers of sheepskin, shock absorbers, and many other forms of "fixes." Clearly the rider is
trying, even if the effort is halfhearted.
To find a real solution, one must deal with the root of the problem. We begin with purely theoretical
considerations about the effects of an inflexible object, like a saddle on a horse’s very agile back. Logically,
how can we expect that a stiff object such as a saddle be able to fit a free moving horses back?
Let us take a close look at the dynamics of this rigid tree saddle.
As your horse stands, with its head up he has a slightly bent back, which a rigid saddle may bridge,
leaving a gap in the center of the back, putting pressure on the four corners of the saddle.
When your horse turns, one side becomes shorter and the other longer. A conventional saddle cannot
adapt to this movement, and this results in increased pressure at certain points.
A horse with its head lowered has a relatively straight spine. As with a horse that move down hill,
more pressure is place on the front edges of a conventional saddle.
Therefore conventional saddles will always produce certain pressure points-at some time-at
some point, depending on the basic shape of the saddletree. Fact.
Have you ever considered fastening two wooden boards on your back? Imagine this if you can, after
tying them nice and tight, just try to bend and move in all directions. No matter how wonderfully the
boards are cut and shaped you will, no doubt, be very uncomfortable. This is no different from what
horse feels with a rigid saddle. Worse still,) weight of a rider is piled onto the horse. Sit on your horse
sometime without a saddle and ride a short distance. Look down and notice how the scapula rotates,
how your horse’s whole back flexes and changes shape with each step. Now, think back about those
imaginary boards.
You can check your present saddle by putting it on your horse (without any extra pads to hide a true
fit) and slipping your hands right under the supporting surface (for example, on the front, rear and
center). Then check it with someone sitting in the saddle. You will probably pinch your fingers and it
will be uncomfortable. The situation for your horse is exactly the same as for your fingers! What your
feel is what your horse feels. Fact.
This realization should make it clear to everyone that something as inflexible as a saddle can
never really work together with something very flexible like a horse’s back.
But this is only the movement problem. Problems actually begin much earlier. They begin with the fact
that horse backs come in an infinite number of shapes, with different shoulders, different withers,
different muscle structure, etc. This is why the saddle industry has produced so many different saddle
tree patterns (about 8-15), nearly all ready-made sizes. But will these ready-made tree sizes really fit
your horse? Take a look at how many different horse types you can see in the pastures, regardless of
whether they are all the same breed or not. Can you really believe a saddle or saddle tree
81
manufacturer could provide for all that variation?
SADDLE - EVOLUTIONARY S ADDLES ™
Continued
Allow me to share with
you just two of our 15+
riding horses. You can see
how different their withers
are, how wide their
shoulders are, how dippy
their backs are, how long/
short their backs are, how
fast the croup rises up. As
you look at the photos,
you can see that not just any saddle will work, for both horses, allowing the horse complete freedom of
movement. You can ONLY achieve this with a the system X Delrin Panel.
So how can the traditional saddling industry, tree and saddle makers possibly cover all these
variations? Truth is, they can't. At best, they offer only a handful of saddle tree patterns to choose
from, and your horse must conform to those few choices. That is like saying that you must only
select a pair of pants to wear from only 4 sizes. Really now.... So are you so sure that your horse will
fit into that one tree size?
Now that we have established the fundamental variation in horse backs, we still have the problem of
how the shape of a horse changes with movement. And, finally, the same horse is continuously
changing over the course of its life! As the result of growth, aging, training, conditioning, feeding, etc.
its contours are constantly evolving.
This last point alone means you need to alter a production saddle or acquire a new one six to twelve
times over the course of a horse’s life. A very costly matter indeed.
If all of this was not bad enough, another structural problem now arises, the pressure load on the
horse’s body resulting from the rider’s weight. From medicine, we know that pressure of more than
105 grams per square centimeter [24 oz. per square inch] damages and can destroy organic tissue. Let's
take a look for example at an English saddle: an average English saddle has a supporting surface on the
horse’s body of approximately 440 square centimeters [27 square inches]. Now, we put another 75 kg
[165 lb.] onto the saddle – the rider. This gives us a load of 170 grams per square centimeter [39 oz.
per square inch]. Acceleration, gravitation, etc may at least double this value during movement,
producing a load of 340 g/cm2 [78 oz. per square inch].
Let's repeat this sample calculation with a western saddle. An average western saddle has a supporting
surface of 620 cm2 [96 sq. in.]. Let's take our 75-kg rider again, giving us a load of 121 g/cm2 [28 oz.
per square inch], or 242 g/cm2 [55 oz. per square inch] during movement. These values are valid for
contact over 100% of the supporting area. As we know however, the horse alters its shape during
movement, making this 100% completely impossible to attain. Even if you add at least 1/4 to the load,
your calculations will still be very much skewed in favor of
the saddle. Now, think back to that 105-gram [24 oz.] limit
once again.
So for review, any activity that involves concussion
(jumping, posting, etc,) will effectively double or even
triple the rider's weight. What is that doing to our pound
per square inch? Are we causing damage? The only way to
know is by palpation.
So What Is the Solution to All These Problems?
A flexible saddle tree? This was out of the question, since it
would not solve the basic problem of fitting the horse AND
providing a stable seat for the rider. It should not be like
Custer
sitting on a sponge. But that would be the logical
South
consequence if the saddle tree were to actually follow the
Dakota
horse’s movement. Another effect would be a sagging of the
tree, which would in turn concentrate the weight on certain
82
Continued
points especially the spine The final point against the flexible tree was that it would not have a large
enough supporting surface to meet our – or rather the horse’s – needs.
An adjustable saddle (bars & gullet)? Well yes, not such a bad idea but here again it would still be
subject to the basic constraints of fitting it to the horse. Also, any adjustment reaches a limit at some
point, not to mention that in this case the "normal rider" is always dependent on assistance from
others (saddle dealers). In addition, we did not want something that is calibrated but something that
changes continuously. First, because there are almost infinite variations among horses, but also because
these variations are gradual and not divided into standardized sizes. These comments also apply of
course to these interesting variations of "saddle systems" that work with individually added padding.
Custom made saddles? On the basis of all these considerations, we rejected the idea of custom-made
saddles from the beginning. Even a custom-made saddle can only in the best-case scenario, fit the horse
100% in a standing position, and then only with respect to the horse’s present state.
A treeless saddle? Also not such a great idea. With this, there is no need to take the traditional fit
parameters into account. But there remains the problem of uneven, selective weight distribution. And
the added problem of the pressure load on the spiny processes, because a treeless "saddle" cannot
keep this area clear.
The solution is brilliant if not quite simple
A saddle in which the supporting surface is independent of the saddle tree, automatically conforms to the
greatest variety of horses, is able to adapt to the horse during movement, and is large enough to distribute
the weight over an area that is more than sufficient. Thus the purpose of a saddle... To offer the rider
support while distributing the riders weight over a large surface area.
This was the beginning of the various systems that revolutionized the panel saddle. With the System X
there is a strong, inflexible tree as a "chassis" to give the rider the desired stability. Mounts are attached
to this tree to connect it to the panels. These mounts are shaped to allow the panel to move in all three
dimensions (up, down, side-to-side)– independently of the tree! In order to guarantee that the weight is
distributed over the whole panel, we have chosen a material that is very smooth and flexible - Delrin. At
the same time, it is strong enough to distribute the force over the entire surface. This was very important,
because only in this way will it work as a whole. Of course, there are many saddles "out there" that
resemble these panels, where the panels give way in the front and behind, but they are not really able to
actually distribute the weight. All other saddles – whether flexible or traditional – have one thing in
common: you ride these saddles on the bars of the saddle tree, which is the source of the problems.
Finally, let us repeat the calculations we have just done of the load per square centimeter [inch] on the
horse’s back. Our saddles have an average supporting area of 2088 cm2 [324 sq. in.]. This means that the
calculations result in values of 35 or 70 g/cm2 [20 or 40 oz. per sq. in.]. And since our panels join in the
movement, we don’t need to make any reductions in the supporting surface. We are obviously far below
the 105-gram limit. As you can see it is it is actually quite easy to build a saddle that is truly horse friendly.
The Construction and Operation of the System X panel
In this section, we present the "inner lives" of our panels in simple sketched form. The illustrations are
partially schematic, intended to merely show you the basic principles of our construction. We have
omitted representations of the padding, etc. The operational principle is based on simple exploitation
of the laws of mechanics and physics and is essentially quite simple and logical. Nevertheless, the
application of these simple physical laws to saddle construction has required many years of intensive
development work.
This is a cross section showing the panel construction. You can see that it has a multi-layered
structure. This is very important, because only in this way is it possible to distribute the load over the
entire surface. A single-layer panel, as found under other flexible panel saddles, is flexible only in the
ends. It looks nice, but it doesn’t distribute the rider’s weight. You ride such saddles – like any other
saddle – on the bars of the saddle tree. If connected with joints, a single-layered panel could even have
disastrous effects. The joints could push through and cause uneven loads in certain places. With our
saddles, the tree and supporting surface are independent. Although panel and tree form one unit, they
are isolated from each other. This means that the supporting surface on the horse can assume a shape
quite different from the shape of the tree.
HILL VIEW FARMS
• 866-723-5937
83
Continued
When placed on the horse’s back and carrying the rider’s weight, the panels follow the laws of mechanics
and are forced to conform to the horse’s contour. This will result in flush contact over the entire surface
with even pressure distribution, and even during movement the panels adapt to the constantly changing
shape of the horse’s back. When placed on the horse’s back and carrying the rider’s weight, the panels
follow the laws of mechanics and are forced to conform to the horse’s contour. This will result in flush
contact over the entire surface with even pressure distribution, and even during movement the panels
adapt to the constantly changing shape of the horse’s back.
Shown Left:
Are the panels in initial
condition, with no load.
Notice the huge weight
bearing area.
Shown Right:
Here you see a
simulated
representation of how
the panel conforms to a
horse’s bent back.
The panel ends are
extremely pliable so as not to hinder the horse’s lateral movements and turns. This also prevents
interference with the scapula.
With a slender horse, for example, the panel would assume this angle. Here, on one side, we simulate
the angle for a wide horse. In this shape, the panel can conform to a horse with extremely wide
shoulders. This is my hand on the front edge of the panel without a rider in the saddle.
YES... This is a
system that can fit
a wide variety of
back shapes and
allow you to go
freely from horse
to horse with little
to no additional
adjusting by you,
the customer. With
this system on the incredible inserts, there is more than enough room for even the most distinctive,
widest withers under these saddles.
Using Cathy’s dining room table to further illustrate this incredible system.
84
Mutton or high
withers? ‘A’ frame,
wide, short or long
backed? Flat or
sway back, slab
sided or round?
Continued
Broad, deformed or knobby
shoulder? Flat top line,
mule or roach backed, high
croop, angled or broad ?
All can be fitted, going horse to
horse with the Evolutionary Saddle
™ with little to no adjusting by you.
The tree makes system, Narrow thin,
strong bars with flaired ends allow free
movement of the System X panels that give
the rider close contact. Just 1.25 inches from
the back of the horse to the bar of the saddle. Add a pad that is 1/4 to 1/2 inch
thick and then compare that to ANY other saddle. Due to that flair, on a flat
backed horse the saddle when viewed from the rear, can sure look high off of the horses back.
The panels-Made of Delrin (a Dupont product) are very flexible. This
synthetic material is both heat and cold resistant and extremely sturdy.
Right is a panel shown with out an encasement and with the
encasement. The encasement is used on all saddles that do not have a
traditional western skirt. This encasement is tough it is the same
material used on the Ranch Handler water & muck carts and the
fabulous kangaroo feed bags. (The panels that we produce are beefy
and built to last. Each panel with the mounting hardware weights 2
pounds each! So a pair of panels is 4 lbs., which actually weigh as
much as the saddle tree it self.) Right is a close up of the stainless steel
slide plate and the nickel/aluminum rivets that are used. Also the back
side of a panel that is not encased. Under this foam layer is another
layer called the backer layer that keeps the washers in place and
working. It also keeps the hardware counter sunk so that absolutely
no pressure spots will ever appear nor will the bolt that holds the panel into the
insert ever fall free from the panel. This panel with the Stainless Steel Slide
plate- is produced on an ultramodern water jet CNC (computer number controlled) cutter. An expensive
procedure, but hard to out do for accuracy. The panel has cuts and feathering in the top area along the spinal
processes of the withers –allowing for a softer fit. The front of the panels are rounded and feathered,
designed for a scapula overlap of up to 3 inches- if needed for short backed horses, making it comfortable
for all different types of back shapes. In the front area,1 the panel is built in the form of slats. This
permits an extra soft shoulder rotation. The slats extend as far as the withers area,2 so horses with
extremely wide withers never feel too much pressure on this area. The second layer of the panel3 overlaps
with the slats from the first layer. This permits a transfer of the forces to the subsequent layer and also
a simultaneous distribution to the center of the panel. The remaining course4 of the panel construction
guarantees an optimal distribution over the entire surface. The distribution thus takes place in several
"stages." In this way, we for example prevent leverage on the panel from causing excess pressure on the
opposite side for horses with very wide shoulder
areas. This gives us an even fluid distribution of
forces. Through the choice of different material
strengths for each layer, we also avoid the
possibility of partially appearing pressure points.
Also developed is a particular design for each
layer in the rear area5 as well. This special shape
guarantees an optimal weight distribution over the
85
entire panel – even in the middle.
SADDLE - EVOLUTIONARY S ADDLES™
Continued
State of the art technology. The saddle trees are designed
for the panel and the panels are designed for horse. No shims
used in fitting these backs! Perfect sweat patterns on them
both. Horses and mules, gaited or non-gaited benefit from
an Eolutionary Saddle.TM (A name that will continue to
reflect technological growth and change.) With the panel now
perfected, the mounting insert or how it is connected to the
saddle tree is critical in the articulation of the panel. The
insert design of the System X operates as a true ball and
socket or ball bearing. This combined with the specially
designed radius of the washers including the oil
impregnated bronze washers used in the rear slot assembly,
delivers pure fluidly of motion to the panel so that it can
conform to the different widths of the horse. The panel
thus independently produces the classic fit parameters like
gullet width, flair, twist,
rocker, etc. The flexibility of
the material also helps it to further nestle
against every curve.
Production Details: Distance, leisure and
western saddles all have tab "girth keepers"
for attaching the girth when the saddle is not
in use. English and Endurance saddle models
that have English rigging come
standard with the girth and
stirrup strap to hook up the stirrups. This way your shins
will not get banged when carrying your saddle. You can
choose (If available for your particular model) between the
Soft-Seat
Standard
comfortable standard seat containing 1/2 inch of neoprene or
seat
select the soft-seat. The soft-seat is comprised of two
materials, first is the 1/4 inch of neoprene padding followed
by 3/4 inch of thick foam that is ergonomically sculpted for
the riders butt. This special high density (HR #26) foam,
not only has the best spring-back, but also the longest life
expectancy (20 plus years) in the industry. There are some
points to consider when deciding to select the Soft Seat option. First, you will lose some of the seat room.
If you are between sizes use this to help gauge your seat size.
Secondly when you select the Soft Seat, you will lose a bit of
the "pocket" to sit down in. Lastly, with the Soft Seat, the
saddle will have a bit of a narrower twist. The twist is the part
that is between your upper thighs. Therefore, if you like a
narrower twist, have bony buttocks or need a smaller seat size,
adding the extra padding of the Soft Seat is key
Variable Girth System: These saddles will come with he
dropped cross-center fire ring rigging, allowing you to have Full, 7/8th, 3/4,
centered and anywhere in-between. This lightweight strong nylon lock n’ slide
rigging eliminates bulk under your thigh and allows you to adjust your girth
placement up to six inches in all directions and you can moderately adjust your
rigging up and down to match your girth and pad length. Saving the expense of
purchasing multiple cinches. You have it all plus some, with this 6,000 lbs, test strength per inch rigging.
Added to the nylon rigging we have a cosmetic leather rigging flap on those saddles that use a fender. This
allows for the fender to move smoothly forward and back. Also available upon request will be the
performance rigging that will have just two adjustments for girth placement, but will allow lateral support
for cutting cow horses and barrel racers. With any of the riggings shown, combined with our no-strain
knee fenders on western saddles and the comfort flaps on English. One can ride all
day in the saddle, get off and feel just as good as they did when they mounted up.
Stirrup Hanger Bar: All English and endurance saddles will come standard with a
stainless steel hanger bracket that will accommodate both one inch and 2-inch
leathers.With 1- inch leathers the rider will be able to select between three different
leg positions and two positions when using a 2-inch leather for exact leg
86 placement.
Continued
Stitching and Edging: We strive
to make every detail as perfect as
the next. We use twist thread #207
with #24 needle and never less
than 6 stitches per inch. We make
sure every piece of leather is edged, burnished, died
and waxed.
Shoreline
Tooling: Border tooing is available. Price $175.00
Raindrop
Aztec
Forest Floor
Mayan Rope
Aztec Dot
Comet
The leather: In making our saddles we may use up
to 7 various combinations of types and grades of
leather. We use mostly drum dyed, vegetable (tree
bark, leaves, nuts and fruit) tanned, chromium
(mineral) tanned and a combination of both
vegetable and chromium tanned leather called “boot” or Latigo leather. We use grade A – top grain or full
grain leather - which has been hot stuffed or milled (the highest quality on the market) as much as possible
– this includes the English bridle and garment leather. The weights used in this leather range from 3 to 12
oz dependent upon where it is being used on the saddle. This leather is purchased from USA tanneries,
using USA grown cattle hides. Only the Garment leather is imported, as that process has now gone
overseas. We order our leather in half-hides and use the various parts of the hide for specific areas on the
saddle. This includes hides from the back or crop, shoulder, neck, head, butt or bend, side or dosset and
belly leather. Each part of the hide reacts and performs differently and so we match varying performance
qualities from one single half side of hide to the different parts of our saddles. As for the color of leather,
we have two color selections, a Havana or dark brown and Black. These selections can be altered to offer
the rider a two-tone saddle, such as a brown saddle with a black seat. In many western saddles/tack, no
dye is used and the leather is left natural with oils such as peanut, olive, animal fats etc., used to darken
it to a honey or amber color. However, these un-dyed saddles will continually change to a darker color
when exposed to sunlight, cleaning, elements of the weather and the daily wear of riding. The saddle, in
time, will not be recognizable as the same saddle color you purchased as every mud and sweat spot will
show. The seat and leg area of your saddle will also become several shades darker than the rest of your
saddle. This inconsistency in color is unacceptable to us and therefore not offered for our saddles.
Standard for Encased panels -are Saddle Sox: Saddle Sox replace traditional
saddle pads. Slip them on your panels like a pair of socks; ride them as long as
you like, slip them off for laundering as you would a pair of jeans. Unlike
saddle pads, they cannot become tight over the spine, allow airflow down the
middle of the saddle & they can’t wrinkle or slip off. Designed
very thin, as no additional padding needed under the
comfortable panels. (page 37)
Stirrups and Stirrup Leathers: A selection of stirrups are
offered dependent upon the riders needs. (page 44) For saddles that do
not have a fender, you can select either the 1-inch leathers, which are
backed with nylon webbing to prevent stretching, or the 2-inch biothane
leathers. Both come with buckles at the bottom and a leather cover to
prevent unpleasant bruises on your shins.
87
Continued
Hardware and Silver: Saddles come with all of the necessary fittings
in stainless steel. (breast, crupper and accessory D-rings,) Western
saddles include conchos, footman loops and keepers. Type and number
of fittings varies according to saddle model and rider request. Montana
Silver with the Montana Armor. Montana Armor will protect your
silvers brilliance and all that is needed is an occasional wipe with a dam
cloth to maintain the brilliance guaranteed. Do not use any chemical or
abrasive cleaner on Montana Armor. We selected to carry the full line
of Flash Cut – diamond edge Concho. These are not the lower end
concho’s but the upper middle. These concho’s have extraordinary
beauty, with brilliant shine and lovely detail. We welcome custom
orders, to see availably go to www.montantasilversmiths.com. Also available are the solid stainless steel
conchos in either plain or blacked pattern, as well as an assortment of other SS hardware.
Solid or Slotted Concho 1.5 inch Price $8.40
Button Concho 3/4 inch Price $5.00
Breast Collar Center Ring Concho 2 inch-Price $20.00
Breast Collar Arm Concho 1 inch. Price $5.50
Bridle Loop Concho- Price $6.90
Bit End Concho -sold as a pair. - Price $4.90 a pair.
Horn Cap Concho 2 inches. - Price $12.30
Horn Cap Concho 2.25 inch for Engraving. -Price $18.50
Cantle Plate for Engraving 11/16 x 4.25 inches. -Price $42.00
Black Enamel Engraving. - Price is $1.15 per letter.
Brass: Select Brass fittings for your custom saddle. - Price $50.00
Girths, Breastcollars & Headstalls: Pages 16, 9 & 29. Are available to match your saddle.
The Saddle Trees: Are cut using CNC machines for reliable
consistency and covered with fiberglass cloth and layered
with resins. This is sprayed with a complete all in one sealer
that deters corrosion, abrasion, weather and ware. The trees
made by Precision Manufacturing will offer a 5-year
warrantee, limited to the normal and proper use of the
product. The saddle tree will come with System X panels.
A Western saddle has a horn on the fork and a well. We have
two selections of the western saddle tree of which four models are built off of.
The Endurance saddle is a cross between a western and English saddle. It has no saddle horn but does have
a well. We offer two-tree style on which we build six saddle models.
The English saddle has neither a fork, a well or a saddle horn. Instead it has a pommel. We have two tree
selections on which we build four saddle models. The pack saddle tree (a rawlide tree), which we make one
style of packsaddle from. This tree has a fork but no horn or well.
Western Trees: Above are the western trees. Left is a tree with a slick fork. This tree will make the
Caliente and Liberty Saddle. Right is the tree that has undercut swells and will make the Working Trail and
Break Out saddle.
Endurance Trees: (a tree with a well): Left photo. The tree to
the left will make the Officer, Express, Freedom and Western
Endurance Saddles. The tree to the right (the McClellan tree),
will make the Battery and the Captain saddle.
Left: Is a photo comparing one of the Endurance trees with the
Western Caliente/Liberty Tree. Shown right: is the pack saddle
tree.
English Trees: Below left is the tree that will make the Cutback
and Jumping/Cross Training saddle. The other tree will make the
Pleasure Plantation and Dressage Saddle.
Lower right: The Ralide Pack Tree
88
Continued
Price, Performance, Quality: Tauer Manufacturing and Hill View Farms ®
cannot be more proud, for it is here that you will find the best quality
functional saddle at an affordable price which is made and assembled in the
United States. Evolutionary Saddles™, are engineered to fit horses and
mules, regardless of shape or size, this system flexes to fit most animals.
Gullet size, twist, flare, and rocker are all addressed, while distributing the
rider’s weight, allowing complete freedom of movement for the animal’s
back and shoulders. 30-day money back satisfaction guarantee.
Rhea Tauer
Made in
the USA
Don Tauer above
Sonia Tauer to
right
Cathy Tauer (president) Packed for a 4-day
Bob Marshall, MT adventure
59 feet long with our
new rig and 4-horse
Bella starting her under saddle
training at 3 with Don and Cathy
89
Continued
The Ultimate Pack Saddle: Tested over 90 miles of non-stop riding in the Montana wilderness, this reengineered packsaddle by Evolutionary saddles will fit today’s horses and mules. Attached to the Ralide®
pack tree are the amazing System X panels which spread the dead-weight load across the pack animal’s
back, preventing pressure points, soreness, and galls. This saddle will clear even the tallest of withers. Also
added is the freely adjustable slide n’ lock rigging, allowing easy repositioning of the rigging –up and down;
forward and back - balance the load and to position the girth to avoid galling. The neoprene girth features
stainless steel roller buckles, allowing for easy and fast tightening and has a pocket to tuck away the billet
straps to protect the animal’s sides. Dee rings are strategically placed on the tree to allow for a perfectfitting pack load. Included are Saddle Sox™, which is a pad that stays attached to the packsaddle (but can
easily removed and laundered). This pad does not bunch or slip, thus avoiding bruising of the animal’s spine
or withers or causing galls. Made to order. Order form on line.
Price $800.00
Packs, Tubs, Curpper, Breeching pg. 21
Breastcollar pg. 9 Girth pg. 16
Bags pg. 5
90
Rentals available
The Caliente
Saddle
Made to order
With Silver
Continued
The Caliente: Built on the same tree as the Liberty
this style is by far the most popular trail riding western saddle! The Classic Caliente spells comfort. A
contemporary design featuring tear drop fenders,
straight cantle binding, a slick fork and a deep seat
pocket gives the rider comforting lower back support
for the all day ride. Another attribute of this saddle is
the formed foam thigh rolls. These rolls are more
forgiving the hard wooden swells of a traditional tree
if your mule or horse makes some sudden unexpected
moves. The nicely padded soft-seat uses both upholstery and neoprene foams, hand skived and shaped
to an anatomically correct shape with no stitching
lines that can rub you raw. This saddle is popular
with all breeds and types of horses and mules too!
The round skirt design gives it ability to fit the various back shapes – long and short, dippy and straight.
This saddle has a narrow to moderate twist that allows the rider to ride all day long without getting
fatigued in the knees and hips. Another plus for this
saddle is the easy free flowing movement of the fenders that virtually eliminate the problems that some
folks have with their legs and feet falling asleep. As
for security, it is all there. The ultra thin tree and
advance panel design allows the rider a next-to and
down-on the (horse secure seat. Oh… and don’t forget that horn… you can really use it. Great for ponying young stock along, yet low enough where you will
not easily get impaled. In closing, the only difference
between the Caliente and the Liberty is that the
Caliente has the blocking Base Price $2,850.00
Seat size: 15, 16 and 17 inch
Loaded
Weight: Aprox. 23, 24 & 26 lbs.
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 & 24.77 inches. All
designed for up to a 3-inch scapula overlap.
Skirt length: 25, 26 & 27 inches as panels is
inside and there is the seam allowance.
Bar length: 20, 21 & 22 for 15, 16 & 17 seat
Saddle color: Black, Brown or Two-tone.
Seat type: Black or Brown Upholstery Cowhide, smooth or Suede.
Seat style: ½ inch smooth padding or the oneinch Soft-Seat
Blocking: Yes
Fork: Slick – 3 1/2" high and 8" wide at base
(total height to top of horn measured from base
seat is 6 inches)
Horn: 2" High and Cap 2 3/8 inches
Cantle: measured from inside the seat 4 1/2"
high (varies with seat padding) and 13" wide with straight cantle binding. Height measured at back of cantle
is 4 inches.
Skirts: Round contoured with fleece lining or encased panels
Made to order
Fenders: Round tear drop 8" wide backed with boot leather.
Leather rosettes: 1 ¼ and 1 3/4 inch.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Rings, Dee's and Footman loops: Specify quantity and where to place.
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel sliders and rings with latigo and nylon reinforced off billet
All About Saddling DVD and Leather Care Kit: Yes
91
Additional options: Available - order form on line.
The Liberty: Built on the same tree as the
Caliente, this style is by far the most popular
trail riding western saddle bar none! The Liberty spells comfort. With a contemporary
design featuring) tear drop fenders, straight
cantle binding, a slick fork and a deep seat
pocket that gives comforting lower back support for the all day ride. This saddle is popular
with all breeds and types of horses and mules
too! The round skirt design gives it ability to
fit the various back shapes – long and short,
dippy and straight. This saddle has a narrow
to moderate twist allowing the rider to ride all
day long without getting fatigued in the knees
and hips. The nicely padded soft-seat uses
both upholstery and neoprene foam, is hand
skived and shaped to be anatomically correct,
has no stitching lines that can rub you raw.
Another plus for this saddle is the easy free
flowing movement of the fenders that virtually eliminates problems with legs and feet falling asleep. As for security, it is all there. The
ultra thin tree and advance panel design allow
the rider a next-to and down on the horse secure seat. Oh… and don’t forget that horn…
you can really use it: great for ponying young stock
yet low enough to be generally out of the way, reducing the chance of having the horn get caught up in
clothing. The only difference between the Liberty and
the Caliente is the Liberty does not have the blocking.
Base Price $2,850.00 Made to order.
Continued
The Liberty
Saddle
www.Hillviewfarms.com
The Liberty
Weight: Aprox. 23, 24 and 26 lbs.
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches. All designed for up to a 3-inch scapula overlap.
Skirt length: 25, 26 and 27 inches as panels is inside
and there is the seam allowance.
Bar length: 20, 21 and 22 for 15, 16 and 17 inch seats
Seat style: ½ inch smooth padding or the one-inch Soft-Seat
Blocking: None
Fork: Slick – 3 1/2" high and 8" wide at base (total height to top of
The soft-seat with no
horn measured from base seat is 6 inches)
stitcing lines that take
Horn: 2" High and Cap 2 3/8 inches
away softness and make
Cantle: measured from inside the seat 4 1/2" high (varies with seat
cleaning difficult.
padding) and 13" wide with straight cantle binding. Height measured
at back of cantle is 4 inches.
Skirts: Round contoured with fleece lining or encased panels
Fenders: Round tear drop 8" wide backed with boot leather.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Rings, Dee's and Footman loops: Specify quantity and where to place.
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel sliders and rings with latigo and nylon reinforced off billet.
Saddle Pad: Saddle sox standard when saddle is
ordered with encased panels: In black or brown
codura with synthetic fleece or tacky tack.
All About Saddling DVD and Leather Care Kit:
Yes
Compairing the Caliente and Liberty
Saddle
92
The ONLY difference is the blocking.
Continued
The Working Trail: A classic western saddle featuring a low reining style fork with moderate under
cut swells that is topped off with a practical horn
makes this western trail saddle great for roping and
extremely versatile. With a compact design this
saddle will perform on any breed of horse, from
Arabians to mules; from the narrowest thoroughbreds to the widest flat backed Quarter horses. This
saddle also makes a super youth saddle. It is perfect
to keep from over-powering a small rider or from
covering a horse from tail to ears This saddle is narrower through the twist than traditional saddle models, and the seat is slightly dished to the cantle to
make (this saddle comfortable for the all day ride.
As for show, just jazz it up with a little extra silver
and you have yourself a beautiful western show
saddle. So whether in the show ring, on the trial or
even working cows this is the perfect all around
classic western saddle. Base Price $2,850.00
Weight: 24, 25 and 26 lbs.
Panel length: 22.7 inches on 15 inch seat: 23.77
inches on 16 inch seat and 24.77 inches on a 17 inch
seat. All designed for up to a 3-inch scapula overlap
Bar length: 20, 21 and 22 for 15, 16 & 17 inch seats
Made to order
Saddle color: Black, Brown or two tone
Seat type: Black or Brown Upholstery Cowhide
either smooth or suede.
Seat style: ½ inch padding or the one-inch Soft-Seat
Fork: 12" wide and 3" high with leg notch in swells
(total height to top of horn measured from base seat
is 6 inches)
Horn: 2 1/2" high and cap is 1 7/8 "
Cantle: 4 " high as measured from inside the seat
Silver added
and 13" wide with Cheyenne roll. Height measured at
back of cantle is 3 inches.
Skirts: Semi-square with fleece lining
Fenders: Round bottom 9 inches wide backed with
boot leather.
Leather rosettes: Yes at 1 ¼ and 1 3/4 inch.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Rings, Dee's and Footman loops: Specify quantity and where to place
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel sliders and rings. Latigo and nylon reinforced
off billet and rear billets.
Saddle Pad: Saddle sox standard when saddle is ordered with encased panels: In black or brown
codura with synthetic fleece or tacky tack.
Additional options: Available - order form on line. www.Hillviewfarms.com
In the beginning: Don hand cuts out a pattern before the time when we got clicker
dies made. Cathy designs a fender pattern for a western saddle.
93
The Break Out - shown with
suede seat & jockeys &
leather skirts
Continued
The Break Out: This saddle is built on the same tree
as the Working Trail. The slightly forward horn
makes this an ideal saddle for the gaming and eventing
crowd or for the trainer when breaking-out new
stock. The lower fork and slightly forward horn is
perfect for mounted shooting The saddle comes with
suede seat jockeys and a specially padded suede seat
that has a pocket perfect for those fast break outs,
turns and twists. The saddle sports a small Cheyenne
roll allowing for a quick hand hold when needed and
comes with contoured skirts, and racing fenders with
a two inch easy twist neck. This saddle is made and
designed for speed and agility. You can enjoy some
rambunctious riding with this saddle - or you can
comfortably enjoy a more quiet all day ride.
Base Price $2,850.00 Made to order.
Weight: 24, 25 and 26 lbs. Saddles may vary +/- 2
pounds through different thickness of leather,
hardware and other points during the buildingprocess.
Panel length: 22.7 inches on 15 inch seat: 23.77
inches on 16 inch seat and 24.77 inches on a
17 inch seat. All designed for up to a 3-inch
scapula overlap
Bar length: 20, 21 and 22 for 15, 16 and 17
inch seats
Saddle color: Black, Brown or two tone
Seat type: Black or Brown Upholstery
suede with seat jockeys as well.
Seat style: ½ inch padding with an
additional ½ inch just under sit bones
Fork: 12" wide and 3" high with leg notch
in swells (total height to top of horn
measured from base seat is 6 inches)
Horn: 2 1/2" high and cap is 1 7/8 “
Cantle: 4 “ high as measured from inside
the seat and 13” wide with a shortened
Cheyenne roll. Height measured at back of
cantle is 3 inches.
Skirts: Contoured with fleece lining or encased panels.
Fenders: Curved bottom 7 inches wide backed with boot leather, with an easy twist 2 inch neck.
Leather rosettes: Yes at 1 ¼ and 1 3/4 inch.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Rings, Dee’s and Footman loops: Specify quantity and where to place
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel sliders and rings. Latigo and nylon reinforced off billet and rear billets.
Saddle Pad: Saddle sox standard when saddle is ordered with encased panels: In black or brown codura
with synthetic fleece or tacky tack.
Additional options: Available
Cathy sews rigging and helps Don lay a seat.
The Western Endurance: Built on the same tree
used in the Express, Freedom and the Officer, The
Western Endurance is the western version built on
the endurance tree. This Express name comes from
the lightweight western saddle the pony express used
to deliver mail in the 19th century. It is a western
saddle built for action, speed and function with nothing in the way to bind your legs or hold you back.
This is a saddle for the western or distance rider seeking an exceptionally light weight supportive western
saddle but who doesn’t need the western saddle horn.
This saddle delivers the rider a secure low slick fork
that is anatomically designed allowing for a fast and
easy handgrip. This saddle has a nice secure seat and
a sweet pocket that allows you to sit back and enjoy
your ride while you eat up the miles! Made to order
Base Price $2,850.00
Continued
Made to order
Saddle shown with
saddle sox and
endurance fenders
with 2 inch neck
Weight: 22, 23 and 24lbs. Without stirrups also
saddles may vary +/- 2 pounds through different thickness of leather, hardware and other points during the
building-process.
Skirt length: 25, 26 and 27 inches as panels is inside and there is the seam allowance.
Bar length: 20, 21 & 22 for 15, 16 & 17 inch seats
Seat type: Black or Brown Upholstery Cowhide,
smooth or Suede.
Seat style: ½ inch smooth padding or the one-inch
Soft-Seat
Blocking and Horn: N/A
Fork: Slick – 3 inches high measured from base seat.
Cantle: 3.5" tall and 12 inches wide – straight cantle
binding. Height measured at back of cantle is 4 inches.
Skirts: Round contoured with fleece lining
Fenders: Endurance type or Round tear drop 8" wide
backed with boot leather.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Rings, Dee's and FootSaddle shown with
m a n
encased panels
loops:
that come with
Specify
saddle sox
quantity and
where to place
Rigging:
Dropped cross
fire with adjustable Stainless
Saddle
Steel sliders and
standard
shown
rings with latigo
seat
with
and nylon reintearforced off billet.
drop
Saddle Pad:
2.5”
Saddle sox
standard when saddle is ordered with encased panels: In
neck
black or brown codura with synthetic fleece or tacky tack.
fenders
&
western
skirts
95
Continued
The Express: Built on the same tree as the Officer,
Freedom and the Western Endurance - The Express
provides a wonderful and secure ride. With 2-inch soft,
plush upper thigh and knee blocking it offers terrific
security during the unexpected shy and is super for
working young stock. This saddle has an adjustable stirrup
hanger bar which allows one-inch leathers to be set in one of
three positions for rider comfort and for different leg
positions from dressage to moderate jumping. The saddle
has a moderate to low rise allowing the rider more room to
move in the saddle while still offering a great pocket to sit
back in. This endurance saddle has a wonderful smooth
rounded fork that provides a perfect handhold - the
ultimate in additional security. The seat is anatomically
shaped for support; it has a hand skived upholstery and
neoprene foam padded soft-seat plus no stitching lines for
comfort. This saddle is great for endurance riders, trainers,
trail riders and anyone who enjoys a western saddle but is
tired of lugging around the extra weight. A great saddle for
all breeds of horses and mules too. Base Price $2,850.00
Made to order
Seat Size: 15, 16 and 17 inch
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches. All designed
for up to a 3-inch scapula overlap.
Saddle color: Black, Brown or two-tone
Seat type: Black or Brown Upholstery Cowhide, smooth
or Suede.
Seat style: ½ inch smooth padding or the one-inch SoftSeat
Blocking: Full thigh and knee
Horn: N/A
Cantle: 3.5" tall and 12 inches wide. Height measured at
back of cantle is 3 3/4 inches.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Pair of breast Dee’s, 1 pr. of
footman loops at base of fork, 2 pair of accessory Dee’s – rear bar, 2 pair footman loops on cantle with
crupper Dee. Additional hardware? Specify quantity and where to place.
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel sliders and with 14-inch long nylon
reinforced one-inch English billets.
Stirrup leathers: 2 inch biothane with stainless steel cam lock buckles with leather sleeves (will come
with leather bell stirrups) or top grain 1" nylon reinforced
leathers with sleeves.
Stirrup hanger bar: 3-position for a 1-inch leather or 2 inch
biothane strap.
Saddle pad: Saddle sox - synthetic in brown or black Codura
with black or white fleece.
Don gluing saddle parts
Don covering
saddle bars.
96
The Officer: Built on the same tree as the Express, Freedom and Western Endurance. The Officer is a secure saddle
with the fork designed low and out of the way but still
shaped just right for the perfect handhold. Really sweet is
this saddle’s flap design with both front and rear thigh blocking for the best in security. The seat in this saddle has a
lower rise allowing the rider room to move, while still offering a great pocket to sit back in. The seat itself is nicely
padded and the soft-seat uses both upholstery and neoprene foams. It is hand skived and shaped to be anatomically correct with no stitching lines to rub you raw. This
saddle has the adjustable stirrup hanger bar allowing oneinch leathers to be set in one of three positions for rider
comfort and for different leg positions from dressage to
moderate jumping. A super trail or endurance saddle that
looks and performs great on all breeds and sizes of horses
and mules allowing you to sit back and eat up the miles.
Made to order. Base Price $2,850.00
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches. All designed
for up to a 3-inch scapula overlap.
Seat type: Black or Brown Upholstery Cowhide, smooth
or Suede.
Seat style: ½ inch smooth padding or the one-inch SoftSeat
Blocking: Upper and rear thigh
Horn: N/A
Cantle: 3.5" tall and 12 inches wide. Height measured at
back of cantle is 3 3/4 inches.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Pair of breast Dee’s, 1 pr. of
footman loops at base of fork, 2 pair of accessory Dee’s –
rear bar, 2 pair footman loops on cantle with crupper Dee.
Additional hardware? Specify quantity and where to place.
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel
Saddle
shown with
merino wool
saddle sox,
barbwire
tooling,
strings,
biothane
leathers and
easy ride
stirrups
Continued
Made to order
sliders and with 14-inch long nylon reinforced
one-inch English billets.
Stirrup leathers: 2 inch biothane with stainless steel cam lock buckles with leather sleeves
(will come with leather bell stirrups) or top
grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers with sleeves.
Stirrup hanger bar: 3-position for a 1-inch
leather or 2 inch biothane strap.
Saddle pad: Saddle sox - synthetic in brown
or black Codura with black or white fleece.
All About Saddling DVD and Leather Care
Kit: Yes
97
Additional options: Available
Continued
The Freedom: Built on the same tree as the
Express, Pony Express and the Officer. The
Freedom is made for distance riders with professional needs and for those who are seeking
an exceptionally light but supportive saddle.
This secure saddle has a low slick fork “A”frame design for a fast and easy handgrip. The
seat is nicely padded and uses both upholstery
and neoprene foams, it is hand skived and
shaped to be anatomically correct with no
stitching lines to rub you raw. The seat itself is
flatter and this low rise allows the rider more
room to move in the saddle while still offering a
great pocket to sit back in. The flap has an
upper thigh blocking that frees up the riders leg
while still offering security for that unexpected
shy. This saddle has an adjustable stirrup hanger
bar allowing one-inch leathers to be set in one
of three positions for rider comfort and for different leg positions from dressage to moderate
jumping. A super and versatile saddle for gaited
and non-gaited horses and mules alike, that
come in all different sizes and shapes. Madel
to order. Base Price $2,850.00
Made to order
Saddle shown with
all black saddle
sox, english
leathers, and easy
ride stirrups
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches.
All designed for up to a 3-inch scapula overlap.
Bar length: 20, 21 and 22 for 15, 16 and 17
inch seats
Seat style: ½ inch smooth padding or the oneinch Soft-Seat
Blocking: Upper thigh
Fork: Slick – 3 inches high measured from base
seat.
Horn: N/A
Cantle: 3.5" tall and 12 inches wide. Height
measured at back of cantle is 3 3/4 inches.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Pair of breast
Dee’s, 1 pr. of footman loops at base of fork, 2
pair of accessory Dee’s – rear bar, 2 pair footman loops on cantle with crupper
Dee.Additional hardware? Specify quantity and
where to place.
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel sliders and with 14-inch long nylon reinforced
Stirrup leathers: 2 inch biothane with stainless steel cam lock buckles with leather sleeves (will come with
leather bell stirrups) or top grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers with
sleeves.
Stirrup hanger bar: 3-position for a 1-inch leather or
Don
2 inch biothane strap.
covering
Saddle pad: Saddle sox a fork
synthetic in brown or black
Soft Seat
Codura with black or white
fleece.
All About Saddling DVD
and Leather Care Kit: Yes
Additional options: Avail98
able - order form on line
Continued
The Battery: This saddle is a modern replica of the original McClellan saddle used by
the US Civil War horse-drawn artillery units.
There is a still active unit located in New
Ulm, Mn. This militia was established in
1863 for the city of New Ulm. Don Tauer,
Cathy's husband, has been a member of this
militia since 1997. Don works, trains, and
rides the draft bred horses for many of the
Battery's major functions. The original
McClellan saddle was developed for men
during the 1800's who averaged in height of
5.5 to 5.7 and weighed 116 to 123 lbs., and
who rode horses that were extremely narrow
with razor type withers, (very much like the
thoroughbred track horses of today.) We
know exactly how this original equipment
can hurt a horse and cause him to perform
badly. This now modern McClellan Battery
saddle has two important distinctions from
the original: It’s comfortable for you and
won’t cause pressure points on your horse.
The substantial width dish in the seat makes
it extremely comfortable for long hours of
riding at any gait. The slightly narrowed rise
helps keep you in the pocket of the seat for
all day riding. The stirrup straps are adjustable for
more security during fast stops. The whole package
makes riding glorious. The ability to tie gear front and
rear is legendary. Base Price $2,850.00
Seat Size: 15, 16 and 17
Bar length: 20, 21 and 22 for 15, 16 and 17 inch
seats
Saddle color: Black, brown or two tone
Seat Type: Smooth Black or Brown Upholstery Cowhide
Seat Style: 1 inch Soft-Seat or the standard ½ inch
smooth neoprene padding.
Blocking: N/A
Fenders: Slide fenders.
Fork: Slick and 4 inches high, measured from base
seat.
Horn: N/A
Cantle: 5 inches tall and 11.5 inches wide. Height
measured at back of cantle is 3 inches.
Embossments: Yes, on seat flap - US
Hardware: Brass in the traditional time period or
Stainless Steel. Additional hardware? Specify quantity and where to place.
Stirrup hanger bar: 3-position for a 1-inch leather or 2
inch biothane strap.
Stirrup leather: Top grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers
with sleeves on a three position stirrup hanger bar.
Saddle pad: Saddle sox - synthetic in brown or black
Codura with black or white fleece.
Shown with US
emblem with
border tooling, all
black saddle sox,
brass stirrups and
with a soft seat
Made to order
Clicker dies are used to
stamp out saddle parts
99
Continued
The Captain. The best of two saddles put together, Officer and the Battery. The Captain has
the security of the Officer with the seat of the
Battery. Made off of the same tree as the Battery,
the Captain saddle has a narrow to moderate twist
with a low rise. The dished cantle and slight seat
pocket make this saddle extremely comfortable for
all day riding. Base Price $2,850.00
Shown with
border tooling,
merino wool
saddle sox, easy
ride stirrups,
fleece covers,
strings and
toestoppers
Made to order
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches. All
designed for up to a 3-inch scapula overlap.
Bar length: 20, 21 & 22 for 15, 16 & 17 inch seats
Seat type: Black or Brown Upholstery Cowhide,
smooth or Suede.
Seat style: ½ inch smooth padding or the one-inch
Soft-Seat
Fork: Slick and 4 inches high, measured from base
seat.
Horn: N/A
Cantle: 5 inches tall and 11.5 inches wide. Height
measured at back of cantle is 3 inches.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Pair of breast Dee’s,
4 pr. of footman loops at base of fork, fork and
cantle, 2 pair of rings and a crupper and gullet Dee.
Additional hardware? Specify quantity and where
to place.
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless Steel sliders and with 14-inch long nylon reinforced one-inch English billets.
Stirrup leathers: 2 inch biothane with stainless
steel cam lock buckles with leather sleeves or top
grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers with sleeves.
Stirrup hanger bar: 3-position for a 1-inch leather
or 2 inch biothane strap.
Saddle pad: Saddle sox - synthetic in brown or
black Codura with black or white fleece.
All About Saddling DVD and Leather Care Kit:
Yes
Additional options: Available - order form on
line. www. HillViewFarms. com
Don is forming the base seat & cutting
the foam for blocking.
100
standard seat
Continued
The Pleasure Plantation: Built on the same tree as
the Dressage, The Pleasure Plantation is just as comfortable as it looks. This saddle may look like the
Stitchdown in style but gone are the seat seams that can
rub in all the wrong places. The Pleasure Plantation
comes standard with the nicely padded soft-seat built
of both upholstery and neoprene foam, that is hand
skived and shaped to be anatomically correct. There are
no stitching lines that can rub you raw in this saddle.
Built for real comfort no matter how long you ride.
The Pleasure Plantation sports a deep seat pocket; a
narrow to moderate twist and a moderate rise to the
seat. It has a 3-position stirrup hanger that allows for
different leg positions from dressage to moderate jumping on the Pleasure Plantation. Compete in competitive
trail events over the weekend, and take dressage lessons
during the week – all with the same saddle! A favorite
pleasure trail saddle, for it’s comfort, #1 choice for gaited
horse owners, super security with both front and rear
thigh blocking all make this a super saddle for both
gaited and non-gaited horses and mules alike. Base Price
$2,850.00
Seat Size: 16.5, 17.5 and 18.5
Weight: 18 lbs., 19 lbs. and 20 lbs. with pad, leathers
and hardware all on.
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches. All designed for up to a 3-inch scapula
Bar Length: 19, 20 and 21 inch
Seat Style: 1 inch Soft-Seat
Cantle: 12" wide and 3 1/2 " high. Height measured at
back of cantle is 2 3/4 inches
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Pair of breast Dee’s, 1
pair footman loops – on cantle, 2 sets of accessory Dee’s
on rear bar and crupper Dee. Additional hardware?
Specify quantity and where to place.
Rigging: Dropped cross fire with adjustable Stainless
Steel
sliders and with 14-inch long nylon reinforced one-inch
english billets.
Stirrup leather: Top grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers
with sleeves on a three position stirrup hanger bar or 2
inch biothane with stainless steel cam lock buckles with
leather sleeves.
Saddle pad:
Saddle sox - synthetic in brown
or black Codura
with black or
white fleece.
All About Saddling DVD and
Leather Care
Kit: Yes
Additional opMade to order
tions: Available
- order form on
One slip with the drill and line.
Don must remake the whole
seat
101
Continued
The Dressage: Built on the same tree as the
Pleasure Plantation, The Dressage is contemporary yet conservative. This beautiful saddle
features a secure padded soft-seat that uses
both upholstery and neoprene foam in the seat
that is hand skived and shaped to be anatomically correct. This saddle has a deep seat pocket
with a nice flat spot enabling the experienced
rider to give proper aids to the horse. This
saddle has a high cantle for lower back support
with a narrow to moderate twist and a moderate rise to the seat making this an excellent
dressage saddle. Unlike other saddles, which
fix the rider in one position, the Dressage has a
3-position stirrup hanger that allows for different leg positions. Easy to change your position according to the needs of the horse you are
riding. The flap features the in-flap pocket so
that you can adjust, remove and select the kind
of blocking for the type of work being done in this saddle. Not only can
you use this saddle in show, but this good, well-balanced Dressage saddle
makes an excellent trail saddle as well. Just remember that any hardware
you add to your saddle is NOT allowable in the show ring. So check
with your association’s regulations as to what and is not permissible for
the level of dressage you will be competing in. Base Price $2,850.00
Seat Size: 16.5, 17.5 and 18.5
Weight at: 18 lbs., 19 lbs. and 20 lbs. with pad, leathers and
hardware all on.
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches. All designed for up to a
3-inch scapula
Bar Length: 19, 20 and 21 inch
Seat Style: 1 inch Soft-Seat or the standard ½ inch smooth neoprene
padding.
Blocking: In flap pocket containing one pair of removable show
blocking
Cantle: 12" wide and 3 1/2 " high. Height measured at back of cantle is
2 3/4 inches
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Pair of breast Dee’s.
Rigging: Adjustable dropped cross fire nylon rigging with nylon
reinforced one-inch English billets.
Stirrup leather: Top grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers with sleeves
on a three position stirrup hanger bar
Saddle pad: Saddle Sox in brown or black Codura or quilted contoured
or square white or black cloth with black or white synthetic fleece.
The following is a tale of One
Saddle two horses. Elroy – a
Morgan has a 6.5-inch dip
in his back.
Pocket for
blocking
The saddle he is being
ridden in, is the 18.5 inch
Jumping Cross Trainer. In
order for complete
suspension the saddle
required two center
shims on either side.
102
Continued
The Jumping Cross Trainer: Built on the same tree as
the Classic Cutback, this Jumping Cross Trainer saddle
has a very comfortable seat compared to the typical jumping saddle. Most jumping saddles have been pared down
to their current size in a misguided attempt to reduce
weight and give the rider close contact. The Jumping CT
has a gentle curve to the seat and the cut-back pommel
frees the rider, for jumping, dressage, endurance, equitation and cross country field trials. The panels spread out
the relentless concussion of jumping protect the horse’s
back, allowing him to perform and move freely. This
saddle sports the three- position stirrup hangers so the
leathers can be moved into a legs-under position for dressage without switching saddles. The flap has a forward
design with exterior soft knee blocking that opens to allow exact
blocking placement or removal. The rear blocking has the same
features. (This adjustable blocking offers the rider real security).
This saddle makes for a wonderful all-purpose combined training
saddle. It is fantastic and sits and rides like a dream.
Made to order. Base Price $2,850.00
Seat Size: 16.5, 17.5, 18.5 and 19.5
Weight: 18, 19, 20 & 21 lbs. with pad, leathers & hardware.
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches. All designed for up to
a 3-inch scapula
Bar Length: 19, 20, 21 and 22 inch bar
The blocking
pockets
Seat Style:1 inch Soft-Seat
Blocking: Two sets of removable blocking. One set for front and
the other for the rear of the in-flap pocket
Cantle: 10" wide and 2 3/4" high. Height measured at back of
cantle is 2 inches.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. A pair of breast Dee’s & crupper
Dee.
Stirrup leather: Top grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers with sleeves on a three position stirrup hanger bar
or 2 inch biothane with stainless steel cam lock buckles with leather sleeves.
Saddle pad: Saddle Sox in brown or black Codura or quilted contoured or square white or black cloth with
black or white synthetic fleece.
Additional options: Available- Order form on line www.hillviewfarms.com.
Using 2-way tape,
shims are placed
so the largest is
towards the
horse’s back
With the shims in place, the
saddle fits Elroy perfectly.
The next horse is Tad, who is a
Saddle Bred. He has a flatter
back with a bit of a hunters
bump/roach back. No shims
are needed for the saddle to fit
him perfectly. So with one
saddle and two totally different
back shapes, one rider with
one saddle can
ride them all in
perfect
comfort.
(Actually the rider
has three horses, she
also rides Bobby
who is a typical
POA. The only
difference
when
fitting all three is the
is the girth size.
103
Made to order
Continued
The Classic Cutback Built on the same tree
as the Jumper, this is a low profile saddle
that has security second to none. The nicely
padded soft-seat uses both upholstery and
neoprene foam, hand skived and shaped to be
anatomically correct with no stitching lines
that can rub you raw. The cutback pommel
allows the rider to get low and far forward on
the horse when scrambling up hill and to brace
comfortably against the generous thigh rolls
on the down hill. You also have a more "legunder" in the roughest going, thanks to close
contact and centered seat of this wonderful
saddle. The 3-position stirrup hanger allows
for different leg positions from dressage to
moderate jumping. Endurance riders, trainers
and Dressage riders love this saddle in fact,
many instructors use this saddle for their
student’s comfort and to teach proper positioning in the saddle. This is a saddle that can
easily go from Arabians to Warm bloods and
ponies too. And if you are a dressage rider
that is going into endurance, this is the saddle
for you. made to order. Base Price $2,850.00
Seat Size: 16.5, 17.5, 18.5 and 19.5
Weight: 18, 19, 20 and 21 lbs. with pad,
leathers & hardware on.
Panel length: 22.7, 23.77 and 24.77 inches.
All designed for up to a 3-inch scapula
Bar Length: 19, 20, 21 and 22 inch bar
Seat Style:1 inch Soft-Seat
Blocking: Full upper thigh and knee
Cantle: 10" wide and 2 3/4" high. Height measured at back of cantle is 2 inches.
Hardware: All Stainless Steel. Pair of breast Dee’s, one pair footman loops – on cantle, two sets of
accessory Dee’s on rear bar and crupper Dee.
Stirrup leather: Top grain 1" nylon reinforced leathers with sleeves on a three position stirrup hanger bar
or 2 inch biothane with stainless steel cam lock buckles with leather sleeves.
Saddle pad: Saddle Sox in brown or black Codura or quilted contoured or square white or black cloth with
black or white synthetic fleece.
Additional options: Available - order form on line. www.hillviewfarms.com
Just how are those panels put on? To mount the panel,
whether it is encased in a leather skirt with fleece or in the
vinyl zippered encasement, you will see a small hole or slit in
the under side of the panel. This is where an Allen tool is used
to enter the panel to reach the bolt for the panel’s attachment
to the specialized mount that has been drilled into saddletree.
This bolt is counter sunk and enclosed in the panel among the
various layers of backer foam. Now you may think that you
will feel this pressure spot, but you are wrong. Because of the
layering of the delrin material, called progressive loading, you
do not. This is the best analogy that we can give you to
understand this: If you were lay on the ground and someone
sat a chair on your back, you would feel each leg. But now put
a sheet of plywood over you, then circles of wood followed
by yet another smaller circle under each leg and soon you
104 do not feel that chair leg at all. This is progressive
loading.
IN
SEARCH OF A SADDLE - A trainers perspective
In Search of a Saddle – 1997 Nancy Wong - Gaitway Paso Finos
(Trainer and recipient of national awards in gaited Pasos)
Revised 2003 - Cathy Tauer
Since about 1955, I’ve been searching for a better way to gain my horse’s cooperation, a better way to
help him reach his potential, a better way to help him perform with enthusiasm and willingness. I know
that if something hurts me, I don’t want to do it and neither does my horse.
I want to encourage his performance, not discourage it.
After the first dozen or so horses that I got in for training, I began to notice that their behavior changed
when the saddle changed or when I rode bareback.
Bucky was one of the first. A neighbor lady called because the 14 year-old buckskin grade gelding that
she bought for her ten-year-old son kept bucking the kid off. I went over and they saddled up Bucky and
I rode him. He had a jackhammer trot—it was awful! No wonder the kid fell off! I took the saddle off
and rode him bareback, and he had a smooth, comfortable trot (as trots go!)
A Paso mare came in for training because she wouldn’t hold still under saddle. Quiet, willing, calm
and cooperative on the ground but almost dangerous under saddle. The owner said, “After you ride her in
gait for a while she gets real hyper.” I thought I knew the problem. We took her to the arena and I hopped
on her bareback. She didn’t move. The owner was surprised but didn’t want to admit it so I rode her in
gait for a while and then asked her to stop. She stopped and stood still. The owners couldn’t believe that
a saddle could make that much difference.
A real interesting example was a lady I’ll call Cindy and a horse I’ll call Ruby. Every fall, Cindy
and 6 of her girl friends went trail riding for a week. They rode every day, all day long. Cindy had to pull
on her reins with all her might to keep Ruby from running. It didn’t matter if Ruby was at the back of the
pack or 2 miles ahead, she still wanted to run and she never got tired—she never quit. Ruby was huffing
and puffing, dripping with sweat, and all lathered up at the end of the ride. But at the next ride, Ruby
wanted to run again. Cindy was scared and out of control. Cindy and I worked with Ruby once a week
for a couple of months. I showed Cindy how to get Ruby to relax her neck and back, lower her head and
respond rather than react. Cindy was gradually gaining control and not feeling terrified. Then Cindy went
on a long ride down a gravel road with a couple of friends. The longer she rode, the worse Ruby got. Ruby
was dancing sideways, backing down into the ditch, rearing—back to square one. Cindy called, very
discouraged and told me about the ride. I couldn’t imagine what had gone wrong so I went over to Cindy’s
house with my saddle and decided that I should ride Ruby and try to figure out what was wrong. Cindy,
on another horse, and Ruby and I walked down the road on a loose rein—for an hour. Then we turned
around and walked home on a loose rein. Cindy couldn’t believe her eyes. Poor saddle fit was a big part
of the problem.
Now I KNEW saddle fit affected behavior.
I ride a lot of different breeds and hundreds of different backs. How can I get a saddle to fit all these
different shapes? I met a lot of different saddle makers and picked their brains trying to learn all I could
about the hows and whys of fitting a tree to horses back, how to tell if a tree fits, and how to help a tree
fit—short of remaking a tree.
One saddle maker and I discussed the need for different trees for different backs and decided that neither
one of us could afford enough saddles to fit all the different backs that we rode. I learned that there is as
much variation among horse’s backs of a particular breed as there is variation in backs between breeds. I
learned an incredible amount from Dave Genedek and Deb Bennet, Ph.D., about the way a horse’s back
works and how it influences everything, including soundness, and why we must allow the back to function
naturally if we want to reach the horse’s performance potential. I learned that tack stores are in the
business of selling tack, but most aren’t aware of saddle fit. Their business is to sell tack.
I learned that a custom tree (saddle) fits beautifully if:
1.) The horse does not gain or lose condition.
2.) The horse does not gain or lose weight and
3.) The horse does not move.
A custom tree is fit to a horse’s back when he is standing still.
When people call with a behavior problem, such as jigging, shying, high-headedness, barn sour, etc. I
ask if their saddle fits. Often their response is, “Of course, it’s a such and such brand. Or it’s a $3,500.00
saddle!” “Expensive” does not mean, “fit”. “Expensive” means you spent a lot of money.
The purpose of the saddle’s tree is to distribute the weight over the greatest possible area. One of the
most common problems is bridging. Bridging means that the tree makes contact at the front (withers,
shoulder) and back (loin) but the middle of the tree does not make the same amount of contact with the
back and does not support the weight. Therefore, there are four points—2 front and 2 rear—that bear the
brunt of the weight. It’s easy to understand that it won’t take long until these four points become sore.
If you had four sore points on your back, what would you be thinking about?
See for yourself. Find your saddle’s tree (the hard part) and when your horse is saddled and girthed
up, put your fingers, knuckles up, between the tree and the house’s shoulder. Have a friend bend your
horse’s head toward you. What do you feel?
Have a friend lead your horse while you walk backward with your hand under the tree. What do you
feel? Keep your hand under the tree and have your friend mount your horse and turn his head
toward you and then walk your horse. What do you feel?
105
If it hurts your hand, it hurts your horse.
IN
SEARCH OF A SADDLE - A trainers perspective continued
Maybe it’s only some pressure now, but how will that feel after 5 hours of uphill, downhill, bending,
stepping over logs, jumping ditches? Now slip your hand under the cantle and see if there is pressure.
Does your horse move around when you groom him? Does he sink his back when you curry his back?
If so, he is sore. Do you have 2 inches of clearance in the gullet? Two inches clearance is a necessity. If
you don’t have it, don’t ride. Pressure on top of the withers could cause damage that is very slow to heal.
I’ve done hundreds of these saddle-fitting tests over the years and have found very few saddles that fit
in a way that allows the horse to move freely. I’ve seen a lot of behavior problems cured by taking the
saddle off or changing saddles, especially with a gaited horse that won’t gait.
After all the research, talking to the saddle makers, and seeing all the behavior problems,
feeling all the pinched knuckles from checking tree fit, it became clear that you couldn’t put a
stationary object on a moving back and achieve harmony.
The flexible panels of an “Delrin”-Flex system are, as far as I can see, the only way to go. I went with
this because I needed to fit lots of different shapes and sizes. I chose it because it will allow my horse
optimum performance and will encourage my horse to try. If I’m riding in a Delrin-panel saddle and I still
am having behavior problems, I know that it’s not the saddle.
Since this saddle is a “system”, not just a saddle, it is essential to understand how to fit the system
correctly to the horse’s back. When I first bought my Ortho-Flex (the only Delrin-panel saddle on the
market-then), before they had dealers, I had to call the company 8-10 times for advice on placing the saddle
correctly on different shaped backs. Some horses would not gait until I placed the saddle correctly. These
saddles have a regular tree, but attached to the underside of the tree between the tree and the horse’s back
is a flexible panel that not only distributes weight over a much greater area than a tree, but moves every
direction your horse’s back moves. To say that all saddles will fit any back is not exactly correct.
Obviously, if you put a 31 pound saddle with a 27" panels on a 13.2 hand 600 pound horse with a 20
inch back, it’s not going to fit. That is why it is important to discuss with your dealer your horse’s
conformation, your riding style and preferences, before you decide which saddle to buy. Test ride the saddle
before you decide which saddle to buy—what looks great in the picture may not feel good to you. By
the way, that 31 pound, 27 inch Delrin-panel saddle is going to fit any horse big enough to carry it.
A saddle can sore a horse if it in not placed correctly on the horse’s back, or if it is cinched too tightly
or locked down with a breast collar or a crupper that is too tight. When you mount, you should be able
to pull an inch of slack in the girth. If you don’t have that much slack, your saddle is probably too tight
and will not allow the panels to move and may sore the horse’s back and/or cause white spots. The
movement is the advantage of these flexible panels. If your girth is so tight that the panels can’t move
you have lost the advantage.
I had a lady call me last night who had a horse that shied, was prancy and barn sour and she was scared
of the horse. On Wednesday afternoon, I delivered a saddle to her and the next Friday she called to tell
me her horse’s behavior problem was cured. Flexible panel saddles won’t cure all behavior problems, only
those caused by poor saddle fit.
Another person called tonight. The horse was extremely barn sour. The man (180 pounds of muscle and
part of the problem) said his arms got tired pulling on the bit all the way home. He has been doing this
for 3 years. We took away the bit, put the mare in the proper saddle and she walked all the way home on
a loose rein.
If you hear of one of these saddles that doesn’t work or makes the back sore, there is a reason and there
is a solution. Not every saddle is going to fit
every back or each rider. Each horse and rider
Valley de Bravo, Mexico
combination is going to be different so it may
take some effort to get the perfect fit. It is worth
it! Take advantage of all of my research, trial
and mistakes. Make your horse’s back
comfortable and watch the transformation in
his attitude and performance. - Nancy Wong
Don & Cathy-Utah
Safe Rider - Soina
106
EVOLUTION OF THE FLEXIBLE DELRIN® PANEL
By: Cathy Sheets Tauer - B.S. Animal Science, E.S.M.T
The patent numbers, dates, along with specific details on the various systems were obtained during one-onone interviews with Cathy from Hill View Farms and other developers/owners on their own products. A
note on Patents: After a period of 16 years] (depending upon when the patent claim was filed, when it was
accepted, the country in which it was filed), a patent will expire allowing anyone within the market to copy
it exactly. Also, if the owner of a current patent does not file a claim of infringement within the statute of
limitations (6 years in USA) to protect an existing patent, the patent then becomes an Abandoned Patent
(prima-facie latter). Meaning that the owner of the patent relinquishes all claims henceforth, therefore
making it available to the public. As for new patents based upon earlier designs, they can obtained if the new
design change is greater than 20%. So the point to remember is, all patents have a limited life span and do
not last forever. A registration mark ® and a copywrite © however, can last over 50 years, but only if the
renewal on the paper work is maintained. On the other hand, a trademark TM simply means that the word
or image is not able to be registered for the time being as it is not unique enough to separate it from common
terminology or it has not yet become a household name associating it with a company or individual. Law
101 in a nutshell.
EVOLUTION: Delrin ® Panels are now available for saddle makers worldwide to use on their saddles.
This material was developed by the space program and is currently used throughout all aviation aircraft
and also within the medical field. These Delrin sheets were the panels that were the heart and soul for the
patented saddle that the Original Ortho-Flex ® Saddle Company developed. There are many companies
that use the word FLEX in their marketing to sell their saddles. Please do not take them at their word.
Make sure you are getting the “Delrin” panel and not some facsimile of “flex”, “panel”, “rubber” or even
rawhide, wood or plastic bars that are hinged on the fork and cantle. Remember a horse’s shoulders and
back move with every step and the “flex” needs to move as quickly and as freely in all directions as the
animal’s shoulders and back do, while distributing the rider’s weight evenly. Delrin material is such a
product. It will not fatigue, misshape or wear out easily, and will last over years of riding. The way these
sheets of Delrin are shaped, tiered and layered will make up your “Panel”. One critical point to remember
when buying a saddle is that the basic saddletree itself must be straight, and not hand made, where even
the slightest variation will occur. The machines that make these saddletrees are key in the function of your
saddle. To better illustrate the progress in technology represented by various saddle makers, I’ve put
together a retrospective look at the different types of flexible panels as they evolved starting in 1982 and
those offered to date. We begin with the foundation technology, from the Original Ortho-Flex 1 System,
which subsequently led to Systems II, III, IV, V, VI VII, VIII, IX, X and the variations and extras.
First: What is Delrin®? Early in 1950 research director and chemists Frank C McGrew developed a
tough and heat resistant material he called “synthetic stone.” During the years of development, which
involved a patent dispute, DuPont patented Delrin® in 1956. Delrin® (Polyoxymethylene) is an acetal
homopolymer resin that is a durable lightweight crystalline plastic, which uses a breakthrough in
stabilization technology. It has an excellent balance of desirable properties that bridge the gap between
metals and ordinary plastics. This Delrin® which not only has memory (which allows it to return to it’s
natural shape), but also has a unique combination of strength, stiffness, tensile strength, hardness,
dimensional stability, toughness, fatigue resistance, solvent and fuel resistance, abrasion resistance, low
wear, low friction, creep resistance under a wide range of temperature and humidity conditions, with high
fatigue endurance, corrosion resistance and mechanical resilience. Due to these outstanding characteristics
Delrin® is popular for its versatility within a broad use of industry applications, such as automotive,
aerospace, electrical and medical applications.
IN THE BEGINNING: The System I or Mock I patent (6/26/1986-USA) was the original system used
when the Brown Performance Saddle Company started in 1982. Len Brown then incorporated his
business and the Ortho-Flex Saddle Co. came into existence in 1986. This is the first and oldest system
developed by the Original Ortho-Flex, and marked the beginning of the Ortho-Flex story. It is a relatively
simple system, with one layer of Delrin in the panel. System I is capable of allowing enough room for
shoulder rotation and fits a wide range of back types. However, it is not fully capable of following the full
range of motion along the back, (and can not sink or rise in the middle, for example) as the panels are not
fully independent of the saddletree. It is therefore necessary with System I to pay attention to the type
of tree relative to the type of back, and is not as “user-friendly” as the systems to follow. The System I
saddle can be regarded as a flexible panel saddle, as opposed to a flexible panel system fully independent
of the saddletree. The panels are a single layer, with .093 of Delrin in the panel which attached to the tree
about 6" inwards from the ends of the bars and were 1 ½” longer than the following System II. This
created longer skirts (not good for short backed or deep backed horses). The panels are mounted by means
of a wood screw with washer into the tree. The system had a few advantages, being less expensive to
build, and a little easier to mount the panels. This system was eventually replaced by System II because
it did not allow the panels to flex downward in the middle with the horse’s back, and the panel stiffness
had to be adjusted to compensate for the increased rider’s weight. Tree shape was also critical for the
system to function so custom fitting through tree changes was often necessary. The System I was a vast
improvement over the traditional saddle in weight-bearing area but required a tree shape not
adaptable to all types of riding.
107
EVOLUTION OF
THE FLEXIBLE DELRIN® PANEL continued
THE SUCCESSOR: The System II or Mock II Patent (8/15/1991-USA) began in 1990. The Original
Ortho-Flex developed a breakthrough in the existing technology. System II offers a mounting system for
the panels, which allows the panels to conform to all three dimensions of motion dynamics, thus making
possible an automatic fit, not only in the shoulder rotation, but also along the back. The backs of the
panels are mounted in a track that enables the entire panel to conform to a radical range of back contours.
With the addition of this sliding mount at the rear, the panels actually push down and away from the
center of the tree with force that enables the entire panel to conform to a radical range of backs and most
importantly, allows the panels to conform to the horse’s back profile while the horse is motion,
completely independent of the tree. In System II the panels are moved away from the tree about 1/8" to
3/8" on steel rocker spacer mountings. The construction of these panels is 3 layers of Delrin at the
mounting, where each one is successively smaller, creating what is termed as “progressive loading” or a
load-distribution on the entire surface. This makes pressure points virtually impossible directly under
these rocker spacers, and mounting the front mounts 4.5 inches back from the front edge of the panel
allows for scapula rotation. In addition to its other advantages, System II can rise or sink with the back
and so became the flagship system for the Original Ortho-Flex Saddle Co. Since the buyout of the
Original Ortho-Flex Saddle Company by the Saddle Works Saddle Company, the System II mounting has
been altered. The panels are now mounted 2.25 inches in from the front of edge of the panel. This
modification has seriously stiffened up the panels in the shoulder area.
THE EXTRA: System III In the quest for further progress, the Original Ortho-Flex developed this panel.
It was designed to address fitting the most difficult horses to saddle; those with very pronounced
shoulders, or mutton-withered and broad. That difficult conformation is often exaggerated by a short back
or croup-high conformation. It’s also seen some in warm-bloods. (For history, the “original” System III
is patented as part of system or mock II (2/18/1994 -USA), and was based on three mountings, on either
side of the saddle bars, allowing the panel to slide. But Ortho-Flex Saddle Company never built this
system because it did not work. So there are no laws or patents to protect the current System III. This
system was then modified based on the System II with a refinement in the front part of the panel; it looks
like a giant hand with five fingers. These fingers allow the panel to conform itself even more closely to the
shape and motion of the shoulder, thus offering more freedom of movement. Two results of this new
construction is that it was only offered as an expensive option on some saddle models, and the use of
rivets to stabilize the five fingers resulted in excessive stress which causes the fingers to either crack or
break.
THE ADJUSTABLE: System IV Pro-adjustable (tied into the extra system III patent) could be regarded
as a high-tech breakthrough in flexible panel systems. The height of the panel mounting points can be
adjusted quickly and easily with the use of an Allen wrench within a one-inch range, thus allowing the user
to optimally balance the saddle and the rider, even on a horse with truly unusual conformational
challenges.
THE LICENSE: This license from the Original Ortho-Flex Saddle Co. was sold to “Rocking R” who then
changed their name to Timberline, which was sold to K-B Saddle Shop - who kept the name, SK Saddle,
Watson Brothers Saddles (former Rocking R) for a time sold out to Ozark Mountain Saddles who since
terminated relations with Richard Watson and the Saddle Ranch. This system is a hybrid of Ortho-Flex
Systems I and II. These saddle companies do not feature the System II mounting method but do offer the
track system at the back of the panel. Like System I, they are also built on a single layer of Delrin, but
thicker (1.25 vs the .093) allowing for rider support. The saddletree selection is crucial to the panel/tree
configuration and the choice of thicker Delrin enables this system to perform nicely. The panels are also
capable of some flexing in the middle, although not to the degree that the higher systems offer. This saddle
construction, like the System I, is more like a saddle with a flexible panel, than a real system. Due to the
adjustable rigging, the saddle can be positioned to compensate for this difference most of the time and can
be fitted relatively well to a wide range of back types.
THE VARIATIONS: The Ultra Flex, Oakfield, Ultra-Flex Vario, Ultra-Flex Adjuster, Reactor Panel
Saddle and lastly the Free & Easy Saddles all have a multi-layered delrin panel, and some have removable
and or adjustable mounting spots to adjust for the limitations in the panel and tree design in regards to
fitting the horses shoulder and back. Great skill and knowledge is required to achieve a good fit, due to the
fact that these panels are truly not self-adjusting.
MODIFIED EXTRA & VARIATION: System VI or Mock 6, and the later System VIII or Mock 8 by the
Ortho-flex Saddle Works Company. This system has taken the rivets out of the fingers of the Original
Ortho-Flex System III and replaced this design with a flower petal pattern in both the front and
sometimes rear of the panel- resembling a 7-leaf clover. This pattern was first conceived in the Free and
Easy saddle and then copied by the Ortho-Flex Saddle Works Company, which bought the original OrthoFlex Saddle Co. and the rights to use the “Ortho-Flex” ® trademark name, (as Len brown did not stop
making saddles because he did not believe in the system, he simply lost his company due to poor
management). This design is also added to the rear of the panel, and offered on select saddle models as an
upgraded feature. This design can be used alone in a single layer delrin or is used conjunction with a multilayer panel. So regardless how many names of “systems” come from this single design is it all the
108 same concept, just sliced up to make it appear as if there is more.
EVOLUTION OF
THE ULTIMATE: System V American Saddles-Grb (Patent in Germany only 3/9/2001-Europe #
EP1292316A2): Represents another step forward in flexible panel construction. This new construction
that improves upon principles seen in its predecessors and offers solutions to problems occasionally
associated with other systems. Due to the uniqueness of this system and its high performance, it is
currently patented, and copies no other. The front of the panel is made of three layers, with 15 separate
fingers (and no rivets holding them together) in the first layer, which is mounted 5" from the front edge of
the panel, providing an even softer fit in the shoulder, allowing complete freedom in its rotation. This
construction extends to the area of the withers so even extremely high and wide withers are afforded
complete freedom. This is then covered by the second layer with six fingers, overlapping the first and
enabling an automatic and equal distribution of weight along the entire length of the panel, including the
middle section, thus preventing the so-called “bridge-fit”. After that comes a third layer with no fingers.
Every layer is smaller than the layer before. Construction was also changed in the rear. This design has
also three multi-layer construction; the second layer resembles that of two fingers flowing towards the
center of the panel, to insure optimal weight distribution–including the middle section. This special
design, using various sizes and thickness of Delrin, has been computer-calculated and curved, insuring
that this system gives optimal distribution of weight along the entire length of the panel, both inside and
out. Now even when your horse is in motion, bending and flexing, regardless of your horse’s shoulder
width, height, holes and dips behind the shoulder and back, you and he will be able to move in supreme
comfort and freedom. The mounts and hardware used is of steel and the rivets used in the layering of the
Delrin sheets are of aluminum. They call their saddle line American-Flex.
THE TECHNOLOGY CONTINUES: System VII (based on System V), American Saddles continued
their quest for perfection. Research tests made possible an addition: the panel has more cuts (feathering
in the top area along the spinal processes of the withers) and has a more rounded front. This made it more
comfortable for those horses who have extremely high razor withers, and also for horses who have broad
and wide withers. It will even fit those horses with “heart-shaped” backs where you can roll a marble
down their spine. Overwhelming success during the 2002 confirmed what computer scans recommended.
Both horses and riders are thrilled with the panel’s success.
COMBINATIONS: System VIII or Mock 8 Saddle Works Ortho-Flex has combined the single layer
System I with the finger cuts of the System III. This really does not qualify as new system but modifies
preexisting ones. However, they are calling this combination System VIII, which still requires great care
in fitting, due to the horses shape and selection of the correct saddle tree in order to achieve an acceptable
fit.
A NEW DEVELOPMENT: System IX. In 2005 after 35 years of combined experience in repairing all of
the earlier systems of saddles Eldorado Saddle and Tack along with Hill View Farms came up with a better
panel design. Added to the rear mounts are stainless steel slides, making the panels virtually maintenance
free. This feature is added to the already proven System VII panel. However, the rivets are of copper for
better strength and performance than the aluminum used in the System V and VII, and the mounts are of
steel. So radical was the improvement in 2005 on performance of the preexisting System VII, that the 7E
easy slide (as it was referred to during the experimental year of testing) needs to be in a category by itself,
thus the System IX (9) was created. Eldorado Saddle and Tack calls this line by a variety of names,
Amera-Flex, Ameri-flex, 7E, Easy Slide and Eldorado saddles
EVOLUTION: System X. During the year 2007, when the Delrin panels alone were maximizing
performance in earlier systems, several small but significant innovations made big changes in the overall
panel performance, durability and fit. Based on the System VII design and the slide plate of the System
IX, the System X has taken the features of these and made the best design yet. Several small changes
together have made a major difference. However this system must have a saddletree that is equal in design
function for the panels to perform exquisitely. The first of several changes to the panels are the rivets.
Gone are the copper and aluminum that were once used in the layering assembly of the panels. New are
the stainless steel and nickel alloy rivets that eliminate the work-hardening fatigue (the amount of flexing
a metal can take before it breaks) seen with earlier systems. Another improvement is the new pivot
mechanism. With the advancements in machining we can get a true ball-in-socket action. By using
different radii on the insert and the washer, this ball-in-socket joint performs with pure fluidity, providing
maximum panel movement with closer contact. With this new assembly the clicking and popping noise
once heard during the break in period of earlier systems has been virtually eliminated. Another hindrance
in panel flexibility has been the backer and foam layer of padding used on the underside of all earlier
systems. This padding is what cushions the semi-rigid Delrin material from direct contact with the horses
back. The improved backing is fingered to match the finger cuts in the Delrin panel it self. Having this
padding match the fingers allows for the little subtleties on a horse’s or mule’s shoulder, back and wither
conformation– especially if he has an unusual or highly pronounced shoulder / scapula. On earlier
systems the panels tended to fall into the dip or hollow behind the shoulder, creating excessive pressure
from the over all rigidness of the front of the panel - especially in the western saddles. These small
differences have made so dramatic an improvement in the overall function of the panels that this new
system has been christened System X. The performance difference is the same as if you had been playing
the piano with mittens and then graduated to gloves. System X is offered by Hill View Farms â for 109
retail and wholesale sales.
EVOLUTION OF
As of 2012: Out of business or in transit: Rocking R, Watson Brothers Saddles, Ozark Mountain
Saddles, Saddle Ranch, Eldorado Saddle & Tack (Amera-Flex, Ameri-flex, 7E, Easy Slide and Eldorado
saddles) are out of business. In transit, is The Ortho-Flex Saddle Works Company who sold the company
to Chase Dodd who moved it from Arkansas to Tennessee and brought back the old name of the company
“Ortho-Flex” and changing some of the terminology used to describe the panels from Mock to Systems.
American-Flex Saddles of Germany are now made by D-K Saddlery - who are using photo’s of the
Evolutionary saddle’s fit on horses backs to sell their brand. Unfortunately, there are many other saddle
companies doing the same thing of misleading their customers. Do your homework and ask questions of
the company to confirm the legitimacy of the products they produce. The act of copying another’s photo’s
and writing is the act of a desperate person/company. As for the person/company who’s work was copied,
sadly it is a form of flattery.~ Cathy, Hill View Farms.
What is next to come? You can bet that I’ll keep you posted. Speaking of which, I have had inquiries
regarding special saddles pads - as many companies are now producing them. These pads have a white
semi-rigid product in them that looks and performs similar to Delrin. The plastic material is NOT Delrin
but a flexible type of plastic - “like the kind you can nail through” (you cannot do this with Delrin) as told
to me by Len Brown, developer of one of these types of pads called the corrector. There is another pad,
which I prefer, made by the CSI pad company that contains the Flex-Plate. This plate is the exact design
as the system 5 panel. All of these saddle pads perform similar to an independent panel, free of the
saddletree and work in conjunction with your current rigid tree saddle to aid in its performance and fit.
However you MUST already have a saddle that fits your horse fairly well. These pads – which may
require shims to achieve an acceptable fit –without question will help an ill-fitting saddle. I have
personally worked with these pads and they do have a place within the saddling industry, especially for
those who have spent thousands on a custom tree saddle - made for their horse, only to find that the
saddle really does not fit. As with any expensive pad, you must have the option to return it for a refund
(if within the time frame offered and in a clean condition) if the product does not meet with the
manufactures claims. Remember to always get a trial period to test ride a saddle before getting trapped
into product that will not serve the purpose you intended. If you cannot get this service, then you do not
need the product. Remember it is YOUR money and the manufacturers’ claims to performance.
1996
My “Tito”
My watermelon
110
Pequena and lots
of bags.
Q UESTIONS - H ORSE
As of 12/22/10, I have personally sold over 1,712 flexible, delrin panel saddles from over six different
manufacturers. I have addressed countless questions from people who were referred to me by manufacturers
and their representatives within the saddling industry. I do my best to remain objective, helping the consumer
while keeping the horses’ best interest at heart. My sincere and deepest thanks to all of the DR’s, DVM’s and
professors that I have questioned through the years regarding my quest for answers confirming my hypotheses.
The older I get the less I feel I know, and the minute I think I know it all is the day I stop learning! So with that
I will continue to pass on and find answers to your many great and wonderful questions. Horses, Tack and
People.
What does it mean when I see white hair? What happened? White hair means that the hair follicle has been
compromised. (The pigment is gone; this may or may not be temporary). Hair follicle damage has several
potential causes:
· The skin is under too much pressure, which restricts blood flow and possibly forms a hematoma and scar
tissue.
· The skin is too cold, which kills tissue, e.g., freeze branding.
· The skin is too hot, which kills tissue.
· Something is causing friction. Constant rubbing, brushing, or movement, evidenced by patches of white hair
on the head of a horse who wears a halter constantly, or in areas rubbed by an improperly adjusted breast collar,
saddle, pad or crupper.
What causes dry spots? Any of the following could play a role:
· Something is applying too much pressure, which doesn’t allow the skin to function normally. This is the case
with a saddle that is too narrow, has bars that are too straight, rocks too much or is cinched too tightly.
· The horse is not thoroughly sweated up. The first place a horse sweats generally is the ear area and the last is
the top of the rump muscles (gluteals). When the horse’s rump show sweat, you can safely say he is sweated
up.
· The saddle is not making contact with the horse (saddle bridging), so the airflow is drying the hair. The saddle
bars are too straight, so they dig into the shoulders and bridge the horse’s back.
· The area has damaged tissue, possibly from an old injury. Old injuries from saddle pressure or a bite will not
allow proper skin function. An area with an injury such as this may take up to 6 months to regain its function,
providing that the tissue has not been damaged permanently.
Why are some horses "cinchy"? Cinchiness simply means that your horse is reacting to being girthed up.
Several things may cause cinchiness.
Pinched Trapezius muscle. The trapezius muscle is the resting place for the rigid arch of English saddles and the
front edges of the tree bars of western saddles. This muscle is called the "saddling muscle" by old timers. When
this muscle is pinched (during girthing) the horse’s natural response is to dip his back, raise his head, turn, nip,
switch his tail and possibly rear. When the trapezius muscle is in spasm the tension indirectly flows to the
surrounding muscles (think about the old song, "the head bone is connected to the …"), eventually affecting the
serratus muscles on the side of the horse’s trunk. The girth passes over these muscles, creating additional
pressure and spasm. Palpation will uncover the source of the trouble.
Irritated Large Tricep. Extended leg movement / rotation or a narrow girthing area will cause the girth to rub or
dig into the tricep muscle. This is the muscle just above the elbow (elbow muscle). Again you will need to
palpate the area to determine if this muscle is sore. If it is, you may need to invest in the contoured soft leather
girth. You also might be able to correct the problem by setting your rigging back, if possible. However, the girth
eventually will follow the path of least resistance and move to the narrowest part of the horse’s barrel.
Spasms Between the Intercostal Muscles. Some horses have a predisposition to spasms. You will have to
palpate the muscle by running your thumb across the ribs in the girthing area to determine this. If you get that
fly-has-landed jerk reaction or worse, you will need to massage out those spasms before girthing. This
procedure is outlined in the massage books. By working out these muscles before girthing, you will not create
a spasm when girthing up. Also the soft leather contoured girth is excellent for these horses because the pull is
coming from the sternum and not the horses sides.
Muscle Memory. If your horse has had an issue with an ill-fitting girth or saddle, the horse will retain that
memory and react even if he currently is not uncomfortable. Time and patience should allow the horse to forget.
Massaging the area before and during saddling, backing several steps between stages of girthing, and then
removing and re-saddling several times before you actually ride may help. If your horse is relatively young, he
should get over this behavior, but if he is over 10, this behavior may have become habit. Just make sure that this
behavior is a memory issue and not caused by any of the previously mentioned three conditions. Palpation is
the only way to determine if your horse is sore.
What is loin rubbing and what causes it? Loin rubbing is a condition where the hair is rubbed off or
individual hairs are broken off over the horse’s back. Friction rubbing is a similar condition occurring from the
shoulders along the back to the loins. As with "scrub marks", these conditions can make the horse
sensitive. You also may see white or roaning hair associated with this. Rubbing is caused by constant 111
Q UESTIONS - H ORSE continued
rubbing, brushing, or movement, which can occur from any of the following conditions.
1) The Sloshing Saddle. A long strung-out walk ridden for more than a few hours is harder on a horse’s back than
any other type of riding. The saddle may move forward and back 2 inches or more with every stride! It’s easy
to see how this can cause sensitivity all over the back, but it’s usually most noticeable over the loins at the rear
of the panels or skirts of the saddle. The sloshing saddle syndrome is accentuated by a loose girth. All that’s
necessary to correct the problem is a little natural collection, contact with the bit, and enough leg contact that
your horse knows he should ‘look alive’ and step under himself enough to bring his back up. Using a breast
collar and crupper also will help this problem. Your horse’s conformation and way of going may be hard to
change, and if you have done all that you can do to stop the sloshing saddle with no significant change, you will
need to purchase a Tacky Tack pad. The properties and design of this pad help alleviate this condition or even
eliminate it altogether. To use this pad alone or as an under pad, make sure that you pull it up between your
saddle’s panels so you don’t bind your horse’s spine.
2) Lack of Saddle Contact in the Rear. When you stand in the stirrups over long distances, particularly if you
brace yourself on the pommel or fork, the saddle’s arch or fork locks into the horse’s shoulders. This usually
pinches the trapezius muscle and the horse will drop his back. At the same time the rear of the saddle pops up.
When the horse hollows his back he stops using it correctly and he will begin to do a swinging ‘cha-cha-cha’
with his hindquarters. The added weight of the rider concentrated over the forehand of the horse causes him to
overbalance forward producing the "power trot" many distance riders are so proud of. As with the long
swinging walk, the horse is strung out and uncollected. The hindquarters shift dramatically under the saddle,
quickly causing friction and soreness. The answer, of course, is to sit down. Learn to half-post and ask for
moderate amount of natural collection at all times, and if your saddle has the adjustable rigging, try tightening
down the rear strap.
3) Upward Swoop to the Croup or a Swayback. Some horses have loins that swoop upward toward the croup
more than average. This type of confirmation is often seen in lines of Quarter horses that have been bred to be
rump-high and have a downhill slope to their backs. The skirts of western saddles often run into the loins of
horses with this downhill conformation. Traditionally, western saddle skirts are laced together in the rear. The
rear of the saddle saws back and forth with each stride, instead of moving with the horse. These laces also can
create enough pressure to bruise the spinal processes beneath them, causing a very painful bump on the top of
the spine. This bruising is serious because once the spine has been bruised, any pressure at a later time will cause
the injury to flare up quickly, as attested by anyone who has injured a horse with a harness. Therefore, on
traditional saddles used for training, trail and pleasure, the lacing between the skirts should be removed to allow
the saddle to move up and down alternately as the horse’s loins shift, to remove the pressure. One solution may
be to try a shorter saddle or a round-skirted saddle. On flexible panel saddles, rear shims set in about 1 to 1 ½
inches from the rear edge of the saddle might help; a fleece wool pad could help as well. If you have a saddle with
the adjustable System IV, raise the front of your saddle so that you are level with the croup/loins. You also might
have panels that are too long and curve up so far that they actually touch or "bottom out on" the rear of the
saddle tree. It this is the case, you might be able to solve the problem by using rear shims. If that doesn’t work,
you will need to change saddles. Also if your mount is sway- backed, you will need to add center shims, bringing
up the center and allowing the panel ends to move freely.
4) Biannual Coat change. When a horse sheds, the hair comes off more rapidly in areas that are being rubbed.
This is why people complain of loin rubbing in the spring, and notice that it mysteriously goes away by early
summer. This type of rubbing usually has no sores connected with it. Any rubbing that occurs during seasonal
coat change is magnified. According to one respected English saddler, every Spring he and his colleagues are
besieged by complaints about ill-fitting saddles. The annual coat change causes extra skin sensitivity in many
horses. One well-known German dressage competitor rests his horses during their coat change in spring and fall,
believing that shedding requires energy. Unfortunately, the early spring is just when endurance and competitive
trail riders are asking the most of their horses. If an incorrect riding stance or other rubbing factors are added to
the mix, real soreness results. I have also found that by using cowboy magic applied ONLY on the rub area
makes and allows for the pad to slide as if on oil across this area thus actually alleviating or even eliminating this
condition. Only apply this product to this area, for if it goes off the target area you and your saddle will slide
off of your horse.
5) An Ill-Fitting Breast Collar or Crupper. To properly fit the breast collar, adjust the breast collar so it can be
pulled away from the horse’s shoulder on one side 3-4 inches. This allows the animals shoulder to move freely
forward. Use the neck tug (the strap that goes over the horses withers) to adjust the height of the "arms" that
lie along the shoulder slope, offering a comfortable fit and maximum support. These arms come together in the
center of the chest and are connected to the center strap that connects the breast collar to the to the girth,
between the horses front legs. This center strap will keep the breast collar from moving up and choking the
horse and will allow your horse to eat and drink comfortably. Correctly fit, the strap should hang no more than
1 to 2 inches when the horse is standing. To properly adjust the crupper, fit it on a standing animal, adjusting
it so you can rise it off the animals rump 3-4 inches.
6) A Pad that Binds the Horse’s Spine or Shoulders. To properly fit a saddle pad you must bring the pad up off
of the horse’s spine, especially in the withers area, so that when you are sitting in the saddle you can easily slip
2 fingers between the saddles pad and the animal’s spine.
112 7) Scrub or Rub Marks on the Shoulders. More often than not, these marks are caused by the saddle being
too far forward. Move the saddle back a bit.
I have white and or roaning hair under my flexible panel saddle, what do I check for? White hair means
that the hair follicle has been compromised. Review the question on loin rubbing. For other potential causes,
check the following:
• Is one side of your horse larger than the other? If so you will need to balance your saddle.
• Is the saddle pad consistently dirty, or damp, or wet?
• Is the saddle the right size for the rider? The panels are designed for the body weight of the rider that will fit
accordingly into that saddle’s seat size. Therefore a larger seat size means that larger panels are used to properly
distribute the rider’s weight. If the rider weights over 200 pounds and is not riding in a large enough saddle, the
panels may not be large enough to properly distribute the rider’s weight, causing excessive pressure. Make sure
that the rider is not too heavy for the horse and that the saddle is the correct size for the rider.
• Has debris worked its way into the saddle pad? If you are using saddle sox, booties or an easy pad, remove it
and look inside. There may be rocks, gravel, sticks or other form of foreign matter that is creating an uneven
surface against the horse’s back.
• Does the horse have a very flat back? This is more often seen in mules and donkeys than in horses. This flat
back conformation may cause the panel to remain completely flat and not move away from the saddle tree in
a concave-convex manner that follows the horse’s motion. Adjust the System IV panels out so that the panel
moves away from the saddle tree giving the necessary clearance for the panels to function properly.
• Have you performed a saddle safety check? To learn how to do this look for "how to perform a safety check"
under the "person related" questions.
The white hair my horse had before I bought an delrin panel saddle went away during the summer
with my new saddle, then came back in the fall, in the same pattern as before, why? Although rare, this
can happen. When you see white hair, it simply means that the melanin producing cells in the hair follicle have
been shut down. As you know, this may or may not be permanent. With animals that have a hair coat, hair
follicles are not all the same. With horses, different hair follicles are active during different times of the year and
are stimulated by hormones that are triggered by temperature and the length of daylight. Some hair follicles
produce longer guard hairs, some produce a softer downy undercoat and some are in-between. What you are
seeing is the "winter" hair follicles (for lack of a better word) being triggered into production by temperature and
daylight, and those follicles were the ones that were damaged by your old saddle. Hopefully with each season
this will get less and less.
What are the bumps I see on my horse, and what causes them? Two types of bumps seem to be related
to tack. The first is edema; the second is hematoma.
Edema is fluid under the skin. Pressing your finger on the bump identifies it. The bump will depress and when
you remove your finger the fluid returns. This fluid is the body’s natural reaction to a rub or pressure that is
damaging the tissue underneath. This fluid will be reabsorbed after about 24 hours, only to return if the problem
is not corrected. If the problem continues, a hematoma may develop.
A hematoma is most often associated with white hair. When you feel this area you will feel tissue lumps. If
caught early enough and the source of the problem is eliminated, the tissue will be reabsorbed, but the process
may take up to a year. If the hematoma was not caught early enough the tissue underneath may be so severely
damaged that the hematoma will evolve into scar tissue. If this happens you may be faced with surgery to
remove the lump, because when your horse’s tack has been correctly fitted and the atrophied muscles return to
normal, the scar tissue will be a bump on the skin’s surface and subject to rubbing. The white hair associated
with any of these conditions should return to normal if permanent damage has not occurred.
How do you measure a horse’s back? Stand the horse square. Feel for the back edge of his shoulder blade.
This is located near his withers and down off the side of the spine about 2 inches. Then measure from the back
edge of his shoulder to his point of hip. From this measurement deduct 7 to 8 inches, 4 inches for the shoulder
rotation and 3 to 4 inches surrounding the hip. This is your horse’s back length. Many saddle makers request
this information and may take their measurements differently so let them know how you measured your
horse’s back. Remember, when looking at the Delrin System V, VII, IX and X panel saddle, the panel can
overlap the horses scapula up to 3 inches. They are designed this way; this is what makes this panel design
unique. When looking for a saddle for a short-backed horse, deduct 4 inches from all the System V, VII, IX and
X panel saddles; that will give you the length that will work on your horse’s back for a square skirted saddle.
For example, if a Delrin panel saddle is 23 inches long, deduct 4 inches, giving you a 19-inch length for a saddle
to fit on a horse’s back. If the saddle is still too long, you will need to select a contoured-skirted saddle in order
to give the necessary clearance. Some manufacturers automatically deduct 4-6 inches in their literature when the
panels actually are 4 to 6 inches longer.
After riding what rinse do you use? After we are done riding and have pulled the saddles, we wash the
horses with a hose – scrubbing off the mud and dirt chunks. Then we use a pail with water combined with
a couple of cups - or more –of white vinegar added and sponge them down. This softens the hair coat,
offers mild bug protection while neutralizes the salty sweat.
HILL VIEW FARMS
•
866-723-5937
113
My Horse is Colicking and /or Tying up. What is the difference and what do I do? After years of sitting
back and keeping my mouth shut on this controversial topic I am coming forward and adding my two cents
worth! Something that I witnesses in 2002 was the straw that broke the camel’s back for me. So, let us begin our
lesson. Please note: I am not a veterinarian. I have a Bachelor of Science degree with honors in animal science,
I have taken advanced courses in medical studies, and I am a certified Equine Sports Massage Therapist. I have
over 30 years of field experience and have consulted countless veterinarians on this topic. The following are my
field observations and personal opinions. Please consult your veterinarian for information about your individual animal’s care. Have him or her show you how to take your animal’s pulse and temperature, how to listen
for bowel sounds, and how to test for capillary refill and dehydration. Knowing these vital signs will help you
identify your horse’s condition. Remember your veterinarian could save your animal’s life. So get to know your
vet well!
What is Colic: Colic is basically indigestion, abdominal pain, a bellyache. This intestinal distress, if not
properly addressed, may lead to death.
What causes Colic? Ninety percent are caused by parasite infections, so worm your horses regularly. The
other 10 percent are tied mostly to feed consumption and occasionally to exercise, including lack of exercise. If
you change your feed do so gradually over a 7 to 10 day period. Other factors that contribute to colic are as
follows:
1. Bad teeth may make it difficult for your horse to chew properly, so have his teeth floated once a year.
2. Bolting food (eating too fast) or fine textured feed. Try putting softball-size rocks in the feeder to slow his
pace down.
3. Overfeeding, so do not overfeed.
4. Moldy feed
5. Lack of water, a 1000 pound animal drinks 9-15 gallons of water a day, and if working hard or if the
temperature is over 80 ° F will drink 20 percent more, so make sure your horse has plenty of fresh water. In
winter, supply cool - not cold - water. If the water temperature is near freezing, a horse will not drink enough.
6. Constipation, sometimes caused by lack of water or lack of roughage.
7. Excessive eating of bedding. If your animal has this condition and you have tried everything else, try using
dried reed canary grass. It makes great bedding and they can eat it.
8. Feeding too much too infrequently. Horses are grazing animals designed to eat small frequent meals. Feed
horses at least twice a day.
9. Feeding while horse is too hot (puffing) or before working hard. Wait 15 to 30 minutes for the horse to cool
down to water or feed and 30 to 60 minutes after feeding before working hard.
10. Old age.
11. Stalled horses not getting enough water or exercise.
12. Feeding horses on ground where the can ingest sand or small stones. (Sand colic).
13. Wood chewing.
14. Kidney colic (kidney stones) and foaling colic in mares.
What are the symptoms of colic? No fever, rapid pulse, sweating, marked pain, heavy breathing, refusing feed
and water, kicking at belly, getting up and down frequently, standing in a stretched out "saw horse" position,
rolling. With severe pain the horse will sweat and can go into shock; movements will be quite violent.
What are the forms of colic: The three forms of colic are flatulence or gas, torsion or twist and an obstruction.
The symptoms and treatment are different for in each type.
1. Flatulence or gas: This can be caused by a fresh pasture or change in feed. Symptoms will include, a pulse
(measures heart rate) of 50 beats per minute, periodic pain, abdominal sounds of gassy pings. Treatment: Walk
the horse, administer a mild relaxant or sedative, and administer a liter of 7-Up. This is what "old timers" used
to give to help get the gas out, although I’m sure any carbonated beverage would work. This is what I was told
to use. Massage the back and belly; call your veterinarian if symptoms continue for more than 30 minutes.
2. Obstruction: This is caused by a blockage of food or foreign materials, engorgement or impaction. Symptoms include, pulse of 60 per minute, and no gut sounds. The onset is more gradual than with gas colic, with
continued pain. If after 30 minutes the horse’s condition has not improved, call a veterinarian immediately. The
animal will require a rectal exam and may go into shock from pain or dehydration and could require IV infusion
of large quantities of liquid. To treat, administer 1 gallon of mineral oil via a stomach tube to aid in moving the
blockage and decrease the absorption of toxins that will be released from the gut if huge quantities of grain were
ingested. These toxins are what lead to a secondary condition of founder. Administer massage techniques but
only if the horse is not going into shock. Give medication for relaxation and pain, and to calm a cramping
stomach. Walk the horse if it is not going into shock. Shock is identified by a reduction in circulation (check
capillary refill time), rapid breathing and pulse, and weakness. Shock can be brought about by hemorrhage, heat
exhaustion and severe pain. Call the vet immediately. Do not move or excite the horse. Do not massage. If shock
is not addressed and treated quickly, the horse will die. Drugs are used to combat shock, but they are no good
if the horse is dead.
3. Torsion or twist: Torsion colic is usually fatal. Symptoms include rapid pulse (100 to 120 per minute),
continuous severe pain, rolling, sweating and shivers from the pain, no gut sounds, onset of shock-like symptoms or shock with violent movements. The onset is sudden. Treatment: Call your veterinarian, who will
114 perform a rectal exam. Keep the horse walking, because thrashing can lead to a ruptured bowel and/or
injury to the his head. The veterinarian will administer a sedative and meperidine or morphine IV to relieve
serious pain. The veterinarian can help you determine if surgery is an option.
• Shock: The state of collapse caused by acute or progressive failure of blood flow to body tissues. It can be
triggered by many forms of serious distress, including cardiac failure, hemorrhage, burns, overwhelming
infections, intestinal obstructions, heat exhaustion, severe pain and dehydration. It is identified by reduced
circulation (check for capillary refill time in the horse’s gums), rapid breathing, rapid pulse of 100, clammy skin,
violent movements, and weakness. Treatment: Call the vet immediately. Do not move or excite the horse. Do
not massage. The vet will administer an electrolyte solution. The goal is to return blood volume and pressure to
normal. If shock is not addressed and treated quickly it becomes irreversible and death soon follows. Drugs are
available to combat shock but they are no good if the horse is dead.
• Dehydration: A fluid and electrolyte imbalance caused by a deficit of water intake, caused by neglect, heat
stress, respiratory disease, fever, and /or diarrhea. Dehydration can lead to shock. If not treated promptly
dehydration will reach a critical point where cellular death occurs. When you ride in hot weather or on very long
rides, your horse can lose up to 50 pounds of body weight in sweat. This liquid needs to be replaced! Horses
can colic, go into shock, and die from dehydration.
• Hyperthermia: Heat exhaustion, heat cramps, heat stroke and sunstroke, all of which can show colic-like
symptoms. Your horse may have the following symptoms: Panting, rapid pulse, body temperature of 109
degrees. Treatment: Move your horse to a shady area. Lower his body temperature by running water on his legs
from the knee down. For severe high temperature, give a rectal enema. The animal will need electrolytes in an IV
solution. Offer water and or fresh moist grass to help re-hydrate the horse.
• Azoturia (Tying up): Also called Monday morning sickness and black water disease. Symptoms include,
lameness, rigidity of the muscles over the loin, sitting or lying down on side, and coffee-colored urine, which is
caused by the myoglobin that is released from the damaged cells. There may be blood in the urine, which
indicates kidney damage. In severe cases, the animal refuses to move. Treatment: Massage over back and loins,
reduce grain intake, and walk animal out. Contact your vet for additional suggestions about treatment or the use
of supplements such as vitamin E and selenium, etc.
Preventive tips to use on the trail: Have on hand a stethoscope, a watch with a second hand, and a
thermometer with a string attached. Know how to take your horse’s pulse, heart rate, respiration rate, and
temperature. Know how to check for dehydration with a skin pinch, how to check for capillary refill time by
pressing on your horse’s gums, and how to listen for gut sounds. Know your horse’s normal pulse, heart and
respiration rates, temperature and capillary refill time. If you don’t know what’s normal you might not
recognize a problem as it begins. Have buckets and big sponges so that you can cool your horse down quickly.
If your horse is hot and puffing wait 15 minutes before watering him. If he still is puffing, give him a gallon or
so, then wait another 15 minutes, then allow him to drink freely. Allow your horse to eat grass on the trail - it
is 80 percent moisture and has essential microelements. Have and give electrolytes but only if the horse is
properly hydrated and drinking well. Give and have your horse drink enough water. Remember, a resting animal
will consume an average of 10 gallons of water a day, 15 gallons if trail riding and then increase that amount for
hot weather. Also remember that a horse cannot reach the bottom of one of those white 5 gallon buckets, so if
you water your horse with this bucket and he does not drink it all, he may just be unable to get his head into the
bucket to finish the water. This is why we use that big water tub to water our horses. They can have free
movement of their head and the bucket holds 15 gallons so they can drink and drink. In cool weather, have a light
or cooling-out blanket to put on to keep the muscles warm, so the horse cools out gradually and does not chill.
Most of all, use common sense. Put yourself in your horse’s shoes. Would you want to carry your big butt up
and down hills for miles on end? Especially if your equipment is not the best fitting or even hurting? Would you
enjoy not being allowed to catch your breath, eat or drink along the way? Think smart; an ounce of prevention
is worth a pound of cure.
I have been visiting your website and have found it very interesting. I am convinced that my saddle
doesn't fit correctly. The part I really don't like about it is when it’s placed on his back it's twisted. I feel
twisted when I ride in it also. The guy fitting the saddle thinks it fits but doesn't see the twisting like
I do. One side fits great the other side doesn't even look like it’s his saddle. It must be because he is
asymmetrical and if so, how do they get this way? Just like us, about 10% of the horses are right or left sided
and canter using one lead so predominately, that it affects their conformation. Even the size and shape of the
foot may be different when comparing the two front feet. The horse may also not flex his neck as well to the
larger side. At a canter they may not like taking the lead on the weaker/smaller side. They may not like to canter
in a round pen/on a longe-line the direction that requires them to use the weaker/smaller side, and may countercanter as a result. You may also have difficulty posting off of the weaker side. Having a saddle that is NOT
fitted for each side of the horse will cause discomfort and may continue to make the situation worse. Therefore
you must have a saddle that properly fits and one which will allow your horse’s shape to change. To start
changing his shape, you must begin by exercising the weaker side. At the trot, post off of the weaker diagonal,
do not allow the horse to counter-canter and encourage him to pick-up the correct lead. (If he can not hold that
lead very long, even if it is for only a few strides, then that is fine, at least you gotten that far and can build later
off of that.) Also under saddle, try to get him to pick up the lead on the weaker side and ride the canter heavilywith your seat. Lastly get the correct trimming on the foot that is off and lower the heel. Years ago, I had
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a 3-year-old horse with this same issue and by the end of the summer her front feet were the same size,
as was her conformation from side to side. Before I started training and riding, her one foot was an entire shoe
size larger. Ruby was also horribly different in the shoulder when viewed from the rear. So misshapen she was,
I figure that NO WAY could this deformed horse ever get balanced. She bucked when I asked her for her correct
lead at the canter (the weaker side) and she would not lounge-at all, when asked to canter in the direction of her
weaker side. So, all summer I posted and posted off of that weak side and built her up. Slowly she began to take
the canter on the correct lead and hold it without objection. She HAD changed her shape completely. By end
of the summer she was fantastic and to this day she is an incredible horse. I was very happy that I did not have
any saddle issues for my saddle accommodated her comfortably as she was developing in all directions. Even
though Ruby was a young horse with a pre-existing condition, older horses can also have an asymmetrical shape
if the rider continues to only post off of one diagonal or only canters the horse using one lead. So the rider must
be kept aware of their riding skills and that of their horse’s build.
My saddle is too tight over horse’s shoulders. If you find that your saddle is too tight over the
shoulder/wither area, or slips forward when riding on level ground, you either have the saddle positioned
too far forward or the rigging is not properly adjusted. To properly adjust the rigging you will need move
the saddle back - causing the front edge of the panel to over-lap very slightly or not at all, over the back
edge of the scapula. The System V, VII, IX and X panels are designed for this. Adjust the saddle’s rigging
by letting it out (lengthening it), so that the girth moves forward into the heart girth area keeping the
saddle in the correct position.
How can you tell if your horse has a sore back or is just being difficult? Does your horse not tolerate
saddling, cinching or mounting, buck, run away, nip, sidestep, toss his head, rear when girthed, refuse
jumps, stumble frequently, quit working mid-season, behave well for first portion of ride then act up, tackup better on one side than the other? Is your horse hollow-backed or cold-backed, showing dry spots under
a wet blanket, hard to catch? Does your horse travel downhill badly or have difficulty walking calmly? Does
his gait appear uneven? These are just a few symptoms to indicate that your horse may be suffering from
a sore back. To determine if your horse is sore you need to palpate. Use 5-10 pounds of pressure (use your
bathroom scale to judge the amount of pressure).
I have high readings from saddle fitting scans, what does that mean? Is my horse really sore? The only
way to determine if your horse truly is sore is by physical palpation. Any number of equipment readings
or scans can register heat or pressure, but who’s to say those readings indicate that your equipment is soring
or will sore your horse? Some people bruise easily; some do not, so remember those readings are just
readings, supplying you with information. It is up to you to determine if those readings correlate to
muscular or skeletal pain, injury, or lack of performance. The only way to determine if your horse is sore is
to physically palpate the muscle tissue.
I am getting gall rubs from my neoprene tack. Why? There could be several reasons, but the reason in
90 percent of the cases is this: contrary to what you’ve been told, neoprene does wear out. The cheap stuff
wears out very quickly in fact sometimes almost before it gets sold off the shelves at the tack store! Check
your neoprene tack for cracks; if it’s cracked, replace it. Check the "skin" of the neoprene. Neoprene has a
surface that when wet is slippery; if this skin wears away you are left with a raw rubber surface that literally
will wear a hole through your horse’s hide. If you purchase top-quality neoprene (and I do not mean the
highest priced stuff), your tack will last many, many years. Now for the other 10 percent: the neoprene girth
may be too bulky for your horse. As your horse’s leg passes by or over the girth, the thickness of the girth
may be what is catching his skin. If this is the case, you need a thinner girth. Your girth may also be too wide
for his armpit. If so, you can get a cutout or a contoured girth, or you can try adjusting your saddle’s rigging
back. Your horse’s movement may also be to blame. Does he kick up sand and grit? Is the underside of your
girth covered with sand when you take it off or is there is sand between it and the horse? This sand is
abrasive and will contribute to wearing off of the neoprene’s "skin" as well as damaging your horse’s skin.
Lastly, is your horse just getting chafed? There may be too much loose skin, heat and sweat, just like with
our human rear ends- (I know - too much information here). You need to "lube-up". So try Preparation H,
Destin Ointment (or any baby diaper rash ointment-but this gets gooey and is good for healing already
damaged skin), or KY Jelly or Vaseline applied in the armpit area; it will do the trick.
Why do you put blankets on your horses when camping? We love blankets when camping for several
reasons. The heavier blankets we use when the temperature drops into the low 40 and 30’s. The blankets
keep the horses warm and when they lie down and they do not get dirty from the manure or wet ground. The
lighter blankets we use as coolers and during the summer months to keep the bugs/mosquitoes off and to
keep them clean. (Somehow now matter how clean you keep the area under the picket/high line, some horses
just love to poop / pee beneath themselves and wallow in it!). Both types of blankets keep the horses
cleaner and will make the grooming job easier the next morning.
116 So these saddles really fit different shape backs?
line at www.hillviewfarms.com.
Yes! Testimonials, video’s and photo’s visit us on
What is casting? Casting is when a horse lies down and cannot get up for he is stuck in a cast position and
is unable to get his legs under his body. He may be cast against a wall, under a fence or like our gelding in a
snow bank. Stuart, our quarter horse gelding, went for a roll in a snow bank and got cast! We watched from
the window as all the horse went for a snow bath- it was fun watching from the window. But when Stuart
tired to get up, he could not, he laid his head back down, and he tried again and again. Was he just resting?
Then what seemed an eternity, we realized that he was truly cast, because as the rest of the herd moved on,
leaving him behind, he just laid there. We dashed out of the house and across the pasture, got to him and dug
him out! I shutter to think if we had not been watching the horses…. How long would he have lasted? He
would have frozen to death – cast in the snow bank. That day we closed off that pasture for the winter and
kept them in a dry-lot until spring. Horses can get cast under fences, against walls, in stalls, in brush and
even in snow banks. If they stay cast for several hours you run a high risk of internal injury, colic and if cast
longer, death. That is why in some stalls you see a board or pipe 3-foot off of the floor nailed to the wall
all the way around. This is so the thrashing horse can catch a leg against the wall and push himself over and
get up. You may also see barns that have bedding banked up against the walls so much so, that the stall looks
like a bird’s nest – with the horse in the center. For safety, make sure you have the right size stall for your
horse. The average size for a stall is 12 x 12. If you have a small horse/pony a 10 x 10 will work.
Cathy what is your opinion on having a veterinarian do a pre-purchase exam on a prospective
horse? I strongly recommend it. I have seen horses who were purchased and taken home with strangles
(that is death to older and young horses alike) and other contagious diseases, which can lead to very
expensive treatment programs. I have seen horses who were drugged, lame, or ill sold as healthy, whose
problems would have been uncovered by a pre-purchase exam. On the other hand, a pre-purchase exam will
not tell you how a horse will hold up under use. I have seen horses pass a pre-purchase exam turn up threelegged lame the day after a one- to three-hour ride. Remember, these tests are just a snapshot, a view of the
horse’s condition at the moment of the x-ray or ultrasound or whatever. I have found the best way to test
for soundness is to ride the horse for a good time, 5 to 20 miles or more per day for three days straight
(naturally with proper fitting tack and hoof care). This test of endurance and soundness, I can assure you,
will uncover any issues that relate directly to future performance, at least in the near term and assuming that
the horse has proper care throughout his life. Again—this is just a three-day test and does not account for
proper hoof trimming and or shoeing. That, in itself, can open a another can of worms. Also, when you bring
home newly purchased stock, always quarantine the animal for at least 10 days to make sure he isn’t
incubating a disease that he could pass to your other animals. This means that the quarantined animal does
not share a water bucket, stall, paddock or any grooming products with any other animal and that he is not
close enough to the other animals to rub noses or pass airborne pathogens.
Why do horses roll? Should I let my horse roll? Is it good for them? Rolling is good for your horse. Let
them roll. Horses roll to dry off, when itchy –especially when shedding out –to remove biting bugs and after
being ridden. They roll in water to get cool or in mud for a protective layer against biting insects. Horses roll
to relieve internal distress - rolling does not cause colic. They roll to give themselves a dust bath in summer
and a snow bath in wither. It is wonderful for them! The only exception is if they are kicking at their belles
and are in severe abdominal distress. If they are kicking at their bellies (not flies!) and keep going down to
roll, you need to monitor their condition and consult your veterinarian.
What do I look for when purchasing a horse? When looking for a horse review the following questions.
The price of the horse can vary based on the answers to these questions and on the horse’s age. When
planning to purchase a horse, tell the seller of the horse that you want to see them load and unload the horse
from a trailer. Have them catch the horse, bring it in, groom and saddle it. Have them ride the horse first. Ask
them to remove the saddle and ride the horse bareback– if they can –as well as ride the horse with just a
halter. Then have them saddle the horse and let you ride -with a helmet and with covered stirrups or with
toestoppers on. A good test to perform to see if the horse is a safe and secure horse is to kick him in the hind
shin – or ask the seller to do it! A calm, secure and steady horse – regardless of age, will not move or move
very little. A horse that is not, will jump, stomp, kick back or become highly skittish. If the horse has passed
the kick and riding test, now you can review the level of training the horse has had and what he has
accomplished for his age. Let the price of the horse with the questions below be your guide when purchasing
a companion or performance horse.
The plastic bag lesson
What price do you put on your safety – your life?
How old are you?
What level of rider are you, beginner, intermediate, advanced?
At what age did you start riding?
Have you ridden bareback?
How often do you ride?
Do you train horses, yours and/or outside horses coming in?
Are you a timid person?
117
Are you afraid of getting hurt?
What type of riding will you be doing?
What are the Gaits of horses? I have referenced over 20 different books/ articles that I accumulated over the
past 30 years, compiling the data. Gaited horses are (I’m sure I missed a few) Fox Trotter, Gaited Morgan,
Icelandic, Pacers, Peruvian Paso, Paso Fino, Racking Horse, Rocky Mountain, American Gaited Largo,
Marchdoor, Mountain Horse, Mountain Pleasure, KY Mountain Saddle Horse, Single-Footing Horse, Spotted
Walking Horse, Spotted Saddle Horse, Single Foot Breeds, Saddle Bred, Spanish mustang, Tennessee Walker,
Trotting Bred, Walk-a-loosa, etc.
Sacked out
WALK
·
Diagonal (square)
·
4 even beats
·
rider feels movement forward and back
and each leg lift and drop
FLAT WALK or FLAT FOOT WALK
·
diagonal (square)
·
4 even beats
·
faster than a walk
·
more active
·
rider feels less forward and back movement
·
more comfy for the rider
Spray training
RUNNING WALK or PASO LLANO or SHOW WALK
·
Lateral (square if even 4 beat)
·
4 beats
·
horse will have over stride, up to two feet
·
PASO LLANO will not have as much over stride as the others
·
evenly timed sounds
·
2-3 feet always on ground
·
same as flat walk but with more speed
·
this can be done slow or fast and is half way between a trot and a pace in timing
·
looks like pulling or trotting in front with driving behind
Remember when
·
deep nod but not like the pecking nod of fox trot
looking
at the gait, all
·
tail may move side to side
gaits
start
with the
·
fastest of all walking gaits
rear
leg
first.
·
rider may move a bit forward and back.
TROT or “hard” TROT or EXTENDED TROT or PASITROTE or TROTE
·
diagonal (square)
·
2 beats with suspension of air
·
the “hard” or Extended Trot will have faster movement and more air
·
PASITROTE this is very close to the TROT but maybe just maybe break with rear foot first.
FOX TROT or TROCHA or PASITROTE or Broken TROT
·
diagonal (square)
·
4 beats
·
rider moves forward and back–no side-to-side movement
·
a broken trot with no suspension
·
not even sounds, sounds like 1,2 – 3,4
Don & Stuart
·
looks like trotting in back and walking in front
Black Hills, SD
·
hind foot caps and slides over track from front foot
·
also has over stride
·
horse may or may not have head and neck bob
·
horse has higher step in back
·
rider feels like trotting but with no bounce
FOX WALK
·
slower version of the FOX TROT or TROCHA
·
hind foot will cap the front foot print
·
rider feels less forward and back with less bounce
RACK or SLOW RACK or SADDLE RACK or STEPPED RACK or PLEASURE RACK or RACING
RACK or PASO FINO or PASO CORTO or PASO LARGO or TOLT – (FAST TO SLOW) or
HREINA TOLT
· lateral gaits
118 · all the above are evenly timed but the speed is varied
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
·
no head nod of horse
no over reach
will have 2-3 feet on ground at all times with exception of RACK
on the RACK there is more over step than on the SADDLE RACK but less than that of a
RUNNING WALK and when evenly timed is then considered a square gait.
SADDLE RACK and RACK are very smooth and rider is very centered
SADDLE RACK has high action in front
PASO CORTO or PLEASURE RACK there is very slight side to side movement of rider. Rider is
sitting still as horse is moving underneath
PASO FINO and SLOW RACK has very short strides and is slower
RACK will at times have one foot on the ground
FAST TOLT and RACING RACK is very fast with speeds up to 20 mph
PASO LARGO is on the faster side
SOBREANDANDO or AMBLE or SINGLE FOOT or STEPPING PACE or BROKEN PACE or
SLICK PACE or SKEITH TOLT
·
Lateral
·
Closer to the PACE
·
Great extension
·
Great over reach
·
May or may not have even sounds
·
1,2 – 3,4 with rear leg landing a splitsecond before front
·
no air suspension
Rest stop
·
SINGLE FOOT has higher action
·
SOBREANDANDO has huge over reach
·
horse swings head side to side
·
can be smooth or rough for the rider depending on timing
·
side to side rider movement
PACE or DEAD PACE or SLOW PACE or FLYING PACE or HARD PACE or HACHANO or
AMBLADURA or FLUG SKEITH
·
lateral (where the legs on one side move in unison.)
·
With suspension and side to side rider motion
·
2 beat
Delivering catalogs
CANTER or LOPE
·
diagonal (square), 3 beats
with my Tito
GALLOP or RUN
·
diagonal (square), 4 beats
What are the Normal Equine Vital Signs? Page 42
When our kids were young we used saddlebags to keep them balanced and
their legs secure. They also could store all kinds of “goodies” in the
119
bags as well.
What can I use to keep gnats out of my horses ears? Wipe them out with Avon Skin so Soft oil. It
conditions the ear and repels gnats.
Should my horse be barefoot or have shoes? I get this question a lot. all of those who say barefoot is the
only way to go, they are wrong, for it may work on some horses and not for others. Horses in the wild travel
an average of 20-50 miles a day; they live in harsh and drier conditions than our domesticated (pet) horses.
The time a stallion is able to acquire a harem of mares is about the age of 5. Stallions that survive to this age
pass on their good feet genes, and if not are taken out of the genetic pool fairly young by natural selection.
Horses in the wild are the products of this natural selection and only those with good feet survive to
breeding age. Those with thin walls and soles or those who cannot grow a foot fast enough to keep up with
the herd are contributors to the food chain. Horses that survive, have feet like iron and grow FAST. Ask any
farrier who has worked on a mustang’s foot and they will tell you that taking a horse from that environment
to a soft, lush, cushy pasture with no natural rocks, stones, gravel and sand to down the hoof, requires a
weekly trim. We do not put down our horse "pets" that we love, breed, raise, and buy just because they have
thin hoof walls or soft soles. Nor can we control the weather where they live. Dry climates tend to cause
harder feet and cracks, wet climates softer feet and thrush. Horse’s hooves are much like our own fingernails
–some of us have thick, thin, hard or soft nails – we are all different. We have to work with what we have.
I have horses that have thick walls and soles that grow fast! If I put shoes on my little mare, she will be lame
in 3 weeks with puffy tendons due to the strain of a long toe. She can grow a ¾ of inch of hoof that fast. So
I leave her barefoot and can ride her in the roughest terrain. My other mare has good sole, but thin hoof walls.
I cannot put a shoe on because the wall is just too thin and the nailing drives her nuts. When barefoot on
pasture she is great, but on the gravel road she looks like I would look walking barefoot over sharp rocks,
yeow! So I use the Boa horse boots on her and they are wonderful. I have other horses that have shoes on
and they wear them well. (I have my horses hot shod, which means that the iron shoe is heated, to give the
metal extra strength and to make shoe last longer; however they are also more slippery. I hot shoe my horses
because I wear out the keg shoes (those that are not heated), faster than my horses can grow enough hoof to
put the new nails into.) Yes, I ride that much. My horses’ feet vary widely, yet all of my horses are in the
same environment receiving the same care and feed. The difference is in their genes. My horses have a soft
pasture in the low areas that is moist – sometimes muddy – and then in the same pasture there are sandy/
rocky hills where the horses stand catching a summer breeze. They have free walking over 20 acres of
pasture. They have to walk though a low, muddy and always damp ditch (allowing moisture to be absorbed
into the hoof), in order to get to the automatic water fountain, which is located on a rough cement pad, under
the lean-to and the huge squirrel cage fan. It is in this area during the heat of the day the horses hang out,
stomping around, hardening and filing their feet. So when trying to decide to shoe, go barefoot or use horse
boots consider your environmental conditions, your horse’s genetic make-up, your activity level with your
animal, where you are riding, availability of a good farrier, and manage your horses’ feet accordingly. On a
closing note, the horse’s hoof is a pump for the horse’s leg, and must be allowed to expand and contract with
each step. We always pull our shoes in the fall and leave the horses barefoot over the winter. The most
growth on a hoof is in the spring and summer and it takes a complete year for a hoof to grow completely out.
When trimming and looking at diet or environment changes you can look at the growth rings/lines on the
horses hoof, tell a story.
Please share your first aid and tips for health on the trail and issues regarding health care when
horse camping. I have been asked repeatedly to write about what to do for certain health conditions that
arise during horse camping. These are the remedies that work for me. Please consult your veterinarian
before administering any of the following treatments, as I will not be held liable.
Cathy’s 101-field treatment begins before administering any medications of any kind. First, I take the
horse’s temperature, listen for gut sounds, and check for dehydration by checking for capillary refill. This
gives an idea of the horse’s current condition and helps to decide how to treat the horse. These checks
require the use of a thermometer, a stethoscope, and a watch with a second hand. The thermometer and
stethoscope should be part of your first aid kit. Practice with them at home before going out into the
wilderness. That way you know how to use the equipment. You will also know what is normal for your
particular animal and your animal will be accustomed to the procedure.
How to use a thermometer. Make sure your thermometer has a string and clothespin attached, so you can
clip the thermometer to the animal’s tail. (This keeps the thermometer from getting sucked into and lost in
the animal’s rectum). Before inserting the thermometer, shake down the indicator fluid and put a glob of
petroleum jelly on the end. Insert the thermometer into the rectum, following the rectum wall so you don’t
insert it into a fecal ball. The fecal ball will give an inaccurate reading. Leave the thermometer for 3 minutes.
The normal temperature of an adult horse is about 101.5. (It might be helpful to store a pair of reading
glasses with your thermometer.)
How to use a stethoscope. Learn how and where to listen for gut sounds and heartbeat. (You can hear gut
sounds with just your ear, but not heartbeats). For gut sounds, listen from the last rib backward into the
belly and flanks. You should hear loud gurgles. No sound or very small sounds can mean dehydration
120 leading to colic. To listen for a heartbeat, place the stethoscope on the animal’s near side in the armpit
area.
You can also check his heart rate by placing your fingertips against the artery that runs along the underside
of his inner jaw and feeling for the pulse. A normal resting heart rate is 30 to 40 beats per minute.
How to check his respiration rate. Watch his flanks. They move in and out with each breath. A normal
resting respiration rate on an adult horse is 8 to 15 breaths per minute. Also check your animal’s eyes. They
should be bright and clear, not half closed, blinking, or sunken in. You can also tap the eyelid for blinking
reaction.
How to test for dehydration and shock (capillary refill). On the neck above the shoulder, pinch a fold of skin
between your forefinger and thumb. If the skin stays tented for 1 second, the horse is getting dehydrated,
if it stays for 2 or more second, he is very dehydrated. Confirm his condition by looking at his gums. Are
they pink, moist, and slippery? If not he is dehydrated. To check capillary refill on the gums, press hard
with your thumb or finger. The gum color should turn from pink to white. When you let go, they should
return to a healthy pink color. If they are white, yellow, red, blue or purple, you have a big problem. Call
a vet. Check anal tone as well. Make sure the rectum is fully closed and normally pinched and tucked in,
not droopy. To prevent dehydration, make sure your horse at rest drinks at least 10 gallons a day per
1,000 pounds. Do not give electrolytes if the horse has not been drinking. I like to give electrolytes before
long trailer hauls, when the horse is at home and comfortable, or the day before a big event so that he is
already properly hydrated. Also allow your animal to eat as much grass as possible as grass is 90%
moisture. You can also wet down hay, hay cubes, and beet pulp, if you feed it. Have caution feeding too
much beet pulp, as it may not provide enough roughage/bulk, increasing the propensity for obstruction
colic. Have on hand electrolytes with calcium and a way to administer them—a 60 cc syringe with
graduated tip is ideal. You can also monitor the fecal out put of your animal. A nice moist, juicy deposit is
perfect, dry and hard without a glistening sheen of moisture is warning to take notice. The occasional cow
pies – or liquid projectile is not normal but may happen due to nerves or an event anticipation Continued
loose stools over a 12 hour period will lead to dehydration.
Galls, friction and heat abrasions. Carry petroleum and K-Y® jelly, as well as Preparation H™. If your
horse gets a bad gall, wrap your girth in cellophane and cover this with K-Y or petroleum jelly. This will
allow the girth to slide over the skin. This means that you must also have a roll of plastic wrap along. If you
use a rear cinch, you can use that on top of your latigo by hooking it in the girth buckle and tightening it up,
pulling the girth back from the gall.
Crusty spots. Carry athlete’s foot cream and some Blu-Kote® (gentian violet). Both these products are
super for fungal infections. They work super on any superficial crusty spots on the horse’s hide, which
many times are fungal in origin such as ring worm. Gentian violet is great for thrush and hoof issues, the
athlete’s foot cream is wonderful on scratches, greasy heal, pastern dermatitis, mud fever, etc., where you
want to keep the skin moist to avoid cracking. (To treat these conditions clip feathering and wash down area
with a Betadine solution and pat dry, then apply ointment.) If swelling occurs, you may have to use a
DMSO/ nitrofurazone solution as well (see below). Also have Destine diaper rash ointment on hand. This
is super for healing any wound and encourages healing along with hair growth. Use this on all areas that are
raw and rubbed. If your horse has warts on his face or muzzle, pinch them off. You can use pair of
hemostats or pliers. Pinch them until they bleed. This will release the virus and kick in the horse’s immune
system and his own body will rid him of the warts.
Bad abrasions, kicks, twists, sprains, open scuffs, leg or body trauma, swellings. Carry a tub of nitrofurazone and a bottle (I prefer a spay bottle) of DMSO. (Wear surgical rubber gloves when handling this
product at it has been linked to cancer in women.) Using rubber gloves, place three finger-full scoops of
furazone in the mixing tub (I use an empty cottage cheese container). Add enough DMSO to make a three
parts furazone – one part DMSO mixture (one or two squirts). Mix until it reaches the consistency of
melted butter or ice cream. Apply this mixture to the injured area. This will aid in healing and pull out
swelling. Do not use any other liniment with this or apply this over any other liniment because the DMSO
will blister your horse and all of his hide will come off! If the skin is not broken, you can spray and rub
down the area lightly with DMSO. You can also wrap the leg in plastic wrap, followed by cotton batting
and a cloth leg wrap. You can use Vet Wrap®, but make sure you do not stretch it when wrapping the leg.
You must change this wrap every 24 hours. Carry plenty of leg wraps and Vet Wrap® along with Telfa®
or other nonstick pads and medical tape, along with a sharp pair of bandage scissors.
Over work and stress. Horses that are out of condition can develop a calcium imbalance if they are short
of legumes in their diet (e.g., alfalfa, clover, and vetch). Lack of calcium will cause a horse to develop
thumps. This is a condition where the diaphragm contractions are out of synchronization with the heart. I
always make sure that my horses have alfalfa hay cubes when out camping and working hard. Make sure
your horse is introduced to any new feed at home. Many of the heavier muscled breeds of horses may
develop a condition called azutoria (tying up). Their urine may exhibit reddish color and they may become
colicky. Make sure you limit grain and sugar when riding hard. If you do grain, do so a least 1 hour,
preferably 2, before riding. Consult your veterinarian for other remedies, including selenium and Vitamin E
injections. Have a pail for soaking feet or for use in cooling down your horse. The handiest size is the 14liter (3-gallon) flexible Tubtrug® bucket. Keep in mind that the quickest way to cool down your animal is
from the knees and hocks down because the blood vessels are close to the surface. Also, wait until the
horse is cooled down before hitting the heavy muscled areas with cold water because these muscles 121
can go into spasm if cooled too quickly. Always give your horse every opportunity to drink when out on
the trail. Dehydration is the number one concern and cause of distress when out riding. Make sure you have
farrier tools along, as well as horse boots. You do not want to sit back in camp as your friends are out riding
because your horse got sore or lost a shoe. Also have blankets, both light and heavy, to help cool down your
horse and to keep the cold ground-chill off when he lies down after a hard day of riding. Muscle spasms can
do a lot of harm if not attended.
Bugs and insects. Another area of irritation for the horse is bugs, along with allergies to them. You can keep
ticks off by spraying any product containing DEET from the knees and hocks down and the bottom of the
tail. The treatment lasts 8 hours and works great. For gnats, wipe around eyes and in ears with Avon Skin
So Soft® or baby oil. For face and deer flies, use a mask. For mosquitoes, use a DEET or some organophosphate product as well as, various all-natural products. For udder, belly, and back horseflies, flysheets work
well. Also provide a good rolling area. Always carry a gallon of white vinegar as wash. A wash of one part
vinegar to four parts water is great for stopping itching. Use after riding or when bugs are out of control and
your horse is crawling out of his skin. Use it on yourself if you get into poison ivy. Use both antihistamines
and cortisone if necessary to treat bites.
Veterinarian-dispensed medications. Consult your veterinarian for use of the following products. Also,
make sure to check with your veterinarian to help outfit your first aid kit. I use antibiotics that are stable
(do not require refrigeration), such as Naxcel and tetracycline in capsule or tablet form to treat for tick or
blood sucking vectors that carry ehrilichiosis (Potomac horse fever [Equine ehrlichial colitis]) and equine
granulocytic ehrlichiosis (similar to Lyme disease in dogs or humans), both of which can debilitate your
horse. Being able to use a field application of tetracycline is very important until you can seek the proper
medical treatment. Phenylbutazone (bute) reduces swelling and pain, Banamine (flu-nix, flunixin megllumine)
reduces fever and pain and relaxes muscles, Lidocaine is a local anesthetic. Have tranquilizers on hand, such
as Acepromazine (Ace), Xylazine (Rompin), Torbugesic, Dormosedan, for use in many applications and
are great when used in combination. Also make sure you have injection needles and syringes in a variety
of sizes (10 and 20 cc are most used with 18-gauge, 1 ½-in. needles), suture needles and sutures, again in
a variety of sizes. If you decide to carry injectable drugs you may need to consult your veterinarian
regarding the use of epinephrine, but this requires refrigeration as it ages quickly. Also carry topical
scrubs/antiseptic washes/solutions, such as Xenodine, Povidone iodine, or chlorhexidine and a bag of
saline solution for rinsing/flushing open wounds along with 200 cc of sterile water. Carry antihistamines
such as Tripellenamine and cortisone (Dexamethasone) for situations that will allow you to get home.
Lastly, make sure you have emergency numbers with you at all times, along with your veterinarian's afterhours number. Play smart and use common sense.
Question: “I get fluid-filled bumps on my horse’s back when no tack at all touches that area.
Why?” For over 14 years I have received 1 to 2 inquiries a year regarding this question. I have consulted
veterinarians from around the country, other professionals in the field as well as questioning owners to no
avail. This seems to occur with both rigid and flexible tree saddles (but more so with flexible saddles which allow greater back movement). This occurs with no plausible explanation and therefore has
remained a mystery until summer of 2010. At last, I solved this case. A client called, stating that after 9
months of riding her new saddle she was just now getting fluid filled spinal bumps. (The same story that
I have heard throughout the years, of soft fluid filled bumps that are not hot, warm or tender to the touch,
with the horse passing all palpation tests perfectly and that go away within 24 hours.) Naturally, the
client’s saddle passed the inspection test. So what is different? Medications? Vaccinations? What?
The different joint supplement! That is what was changed. It took 30 days for the new joint supplement
to take full effect. I asked the customer to stop using it and see what happens. Within one month no
bumps were present. No one had ever thought of asking for
changes 30 days past. With something acute, such as spinal
bumps, one looks for sudden changes, so the answer to this
question laid dormant all these years. I cannot disclose the
manufacturer of the supplement. But keep in mind that many
products used for livestock are not subject to FDA regulations
and thus tests that would normally uncover undesirable side
effects are not done. In conclusion: When changing your
horse’s diet/medications,
give the change 30 days to
evaluate if it is the right for
your horse.
Pizarro’s first bath
with mom
122
Is your horse’s shoulder free to move completely without any
interference from the saddletree? With a person in the saddle
slide your hand under the front, center and rear, checking that the
weight is distributed evenly. Do this test at a walk as well.
Q UESTIONS - T ACK
What is a saddle designed to do? A saddle is designed to distribute the rider’s weight over the largest
surface area possible and to offer the rider support.
Saddle Fitting? Important message to all saddle fitters, massage therapists and veterinarians. Do not just
set the saddle on the horse’s back to determine fit, but cinch or girth it down tightly (remember to set the
saddle] on the horse’s bare –no blanket or pad - back). Then check the saddle fit. Many saddles now use
Delrin panels, gel or air, etc., that require a downward force to achieve fit which can only be done by cinching
the saddle down tightly and/or having someone sit in the saddle. You can then re-check fit by sliding your
hand under the saddle, feeling just what the horse feels. You can then finalize your initial fitting with the
rider in the saddle and the horse in motion. If the saddle requires a corrective pad in order to achieve a good
fit, remember to shim away from pressure and to check the horse’s conformation prior to any saddle fitting.
You do this by squaring the horse up and looking over his rump, viewing his shoulder and wither area.
How do you measure a saddle’s seat? For English saddles (including cutbacks): measure from the head
pin to the center of the cantle, but this may not accurately portray the saddle’s seat size. Many saddles are
now being sloped back at the front of the tree and will give you a false measurement of the actual seat area
for the rider, so a smaller measurement will actually indicate a larger seat size. (Yes, the available seat area
is actually bigger than the measurement.) For Western saddles (including endurance models with a fork):
measure from the back of the fork to the center of the cantle. Many of these saddles are being constructed
with soft swells for your thigh that cut back into the seat, so your measurement will be larger than your
actual seat size.
On our saddles (System V, VII, IX and X ), the panels sit a bit further forward than the saddletree
itself. You know, where the horse’s withers are. So where do I set my saddle on my horse’s back?
The saddle is designed so that the soft Delrin panels can overlap the horse’s scapula by 1 to 3 inches. *
Please Note* On some horses, with very long backs or a very steep shoulder slope, the saddle does not
overlap the scapula at all, but when you place your saddle in the saddling "sweet spot" the panel is actually
an inch or so behind the scapula. Not to worry, the soft flexible front edges of the panel will allow for your
horse’s shoulder to move effortlessly under the panel without injury. You will however need to adjust the
saddle’s rigging so your girth falls into your horse’s heart girth area (the correct location for the girth). To
find the scapula, square your horse up so that his front legs are in line with each other. Then, by the withers
and down from the spine 4 to 5 inches, palpate your horse’s shoulder, feeling for the point where the back
edge of the scapula drops off into the back. Mark that area in your mind’s eye, then place the saddle so the
panel overlaps the scapula by 1 to 3 inches (the higher figure if a western saddle) or not at all, depending on
the horse’s length of back. The horse’s shoulders can now move freely under the panels. Remember a horse
can have up to a 4-inch backward rotation of the scapula and with the advanced panel design, he is now free
in his shoulder and back. A rigid-tree saddle does not move with the horse. Those saddles need to be set 3
to 4 inches (or a hand width) behind the horse’s scapula due to the fact that horses have a 3-4 inch shoulder
extension with rotation backward. This fitting might work with an English saddle, because it has a shorter
tree to begin with. But these saddles are not really practical if the rider needs a larger seat or if the horse has
a short back and setting it that far back may also position the rider behind the horse’s center of gravity and
the weight bearing area. These panels allow a softer fit in the shoulder area; however you can achieve even
a softer fit by tightening up the saddles rear rigging, which will pull the saddle down in the rear, freeing up
the wither area slightly more. These incredible panels not only provide the "flair," the opening needed for
free shoulder movement, but they can "twist" from the horse’s wither area to the flat of its back, yet still
have the ability to curve down to "rocker" into the horse’s back, or go straight depending on the horse’s
shape. The panels can do all that, while providing the maximum amount of surface area for distributing the
rider’s weight on a moving object: your horse!
My saddle is bouncy. Can you help me? Several things can cause bounciness on a Delrin panel saddle.
First, never, ever, use a girth that has elastic in it. The panels on these saddles have the right amount of
spring and flex so the horse can move freely under them. If you use a girth that gives you more spring you
will feel like one of those balls attached to an elastic string hitting the paddle. Second, the girth could be too
loose. You need to "over tighten" the girth just a bit on the ground. Tighten just enough so that you cannot
get your fingers under the girth. When you mount up, the saddle’s panels will mold into the horse’s back,
loosening the girth. To see if the fit is right , have someone on the ground check it. If they can get their hand
under the girth it is just right; if they can pull it away from the horse’s body more than an inch, it is too loose.
If your saddle has a rear rigging, use it and tighten it down, so that when you are riding it will hang no more
than one inch below the horse’s belly. Third, you could be using the wrong pad. Do not use a pad more than
1/2 inch thick. Do not use a neoprene or foam pad. These will just add more bulk, heat and more bounce. The
Delrin panels have all the cushion and bounce you and your horse need. Any more and you will be
"bouncing" all over the place. Fourth, if your saddle has adjustable rigging, check it, because you may need
to tighten up the rear-rigging strap. Fifth: Your saddle maybe too far forward, try moving it back. Sixth:
Check your horse's conformation - he may be built down hill and you may need forward shims to 123
balance your saddle.
Q UESTIONS - T ACK
continued
The adjustable system on the front mounts of my American-flex saddle does not stay where I adjust
it. If you find that adjustment you desire does not stay in position, try applying a few drops of Loctite
Blue® - found in any automotive store. To apply this, adjust the mount to its farthest outward position,
wipe away any oily residue, then apply a few drops of "loctite blue" and reset the mount to the position
desired. Remember that the rear of the saddle DOES NOT have the adjustable system. DO NOT even think
of adjusting the rear. If you do, YOU WILL damage your saddle.
Do you sell used saddles? No, we do not sell used saddles, but post all brands of Delrin panel saddles that
are for sale by their owners on our web site at no charge.
On my western saddle the fenders don’t swing very freely or I have a very long "neck" on the
fender that interferes with my boot. What can I do? Western fenders are hung on the saddle tree, either
over the saddle bar, through a slot in the bar, or on a hanger attached to the bar. The ideal attachment is to
have the fender hung over the bar. This is the only way to have maximum strength and greater versatility in
adjusting your fender for the length desired, providing the manufacturer has not riveted or laced the fender
closed. To adjust the fender to the correct length, grab either side of the fender (front and back) and pull
either down or up using opposite directions to rotate the fender on the saddle. This way you can achieve
greater swing or less neck at the area above your stirrup.
In what order do I put my tack on, and in what order do I take it off? What I tell my students is this:
1) The saddle and cinch it on. 2) Rear or flank strap, if you have one. 3) Breast collar if you have one. 4)
Crupper if you have one. 5) Bridle. I bridle last because if I have a problem in the saddling process, I have
the horse by the halter and am not pulling with the bridle. Take the equipment off in almost the reverse order.
1) Bridle 2) Breast collar 3) Crupper 4) Rear strap 5) Girth (saddle).
I was told that I need to get a special saddle for my gaited horse. A "gaited horse saddle" do you have
any? Oh my, I do get this question a lot. For starters, a gaited horse is NO DIFFERENT in conformation
than a trotting horse. The ONLY difference is the timing of the footfalls. This timing is what we spend big
money for, what gives us a smooth ride, and the reason why we ride gaited horses. To achieve this timing we
do not want anything to impair the horse’s movement, affecting foot-falls. We need to have a saddle that will
allow freedom of movement, especially in the shoulder area. This is why the System VII panels are so
wonderful. These saddles are not only great for gaited horses, but for all horses! What the people who say
that you need a gaited horse saddle are really trying to tell you, is that you need to have a saddle that does
not interfere with the horse’s shoulder movement. Many "rigid tree-gaited horse saddles" are very short in
length allowing the shoulder more room, but with a short tree comes excessive pressure. The saddle may
also offer too much flair in the shoulder area, which can cause the saddle to ride on the horse’s spine! Yikes!
So remember, regardless what horse you ride, make sure that they have complete freedom movement in
order to perform to their potential.
How do I adjust the English leathers and use the coverlet on the am-f saddles? Here
is the proper way to attach the stirrups and the closing of the leather with the coverlet.
Notice that the tongue of the buckle is on the inside as is the tail of the leather. If you find
that the "tail" is too long, you can cut off what you do not need. After the leather is adjusted
to the proper length, slide the coverlet down over the buckle until it is completely hidden.
(Photo to right shows process with the coverlet that still needs to be pulled down over the
buckle).
What are those odd pieces of leather on western saddles up by the fork, the ones that
have the horizontal and vertical splits in them? And for English saddles, what is that
leather tab in the rear with holes in it? Good question. On the western saddles, those are the
keepers for either your cinch or latigo strap. The keeper with the vertical slit, on the off side
(the side you do not mount the horse from) is to hook your cinch when you are done riding.
You buckle your girth into that piece of leather and it will hold the cinch up so does not drag
when you are carrying the saddle. The other piece of leather with the horizontal slot, located
on the near side (the side you mount up from), holds the tail of your latigo strap when you
are done cinching up. Many English saddles have a leather tab with holes in it, on the "off
side" toward the rear of the saddle. This is a girth keeper, used to attach the girth when
putting your saddle away.
Why do the buckles on my stirrup leathers move? If you are riding in a saddle that has biothane leathers
with a cam buckle, and find that the buckle is riding up your leg (which will sore your leg terribly), you will
need to reposition that buckle to the other side of the stirrup. To do this, rotate the biothane leather (through
the tree) so that you can place the stirrup on the other side of the buckle then rotate the biothane so that
124 buckle is sitting on top of the stirrup. Then slide the coverlet over the buckle. This will solve your
migrating buckle problem.
Q UESTIONS - T ACK
continued
How do I perform a safety check on flexible panel system saddles? How often should I do this? You
should perform a safety check twice a year. In the following procedures, you will be comparing one side of
the saddle with the other. Turn your saddle over on its back. Take off any pads that the saddle may have on
it.
1) First look at your panel spacing: If you have a System I, II, III, V, VI or the license- there should be at least
1 to 2 inches of space between the front panels (under the gullet area). If you have system VII, IX or X this
spacing can be as little as a-half inch.
2) Next wiggle the panel on the front mounting, comparing the two sides. Do they wiggle the same? They
should. Try pulling the panels away from the saddle. Do both move out the same? They should. During
either of these tests, are the panels excessively loose? They should not be. Do the panels move freely during
this procedure? They should.
3) Next check the back mounting pedestals. Do the same tests as for the front panels, but the rear panels
should move more freely than the front, if your saddle has the System II, III, V, VI, or VII. The panel has a
little slot that allows for this extra freedom. Is your panel moving freely in the slot? Can you pull on the
center of your panel and see the panel sliding on the rear mount? The panels should slide freely.
4) If the panels are not adjusted correctly, that is, if one side is freer than the other, you will need to have
your panels reset. I strongly (!!!!!!!) recommend that you send your saddle in to the nearest service
representative to do this. However, if you must do it yourself, here is how you go about it. If you decide to
"fix" your saddle yourself and mess it up, you may void your warranty. With that in mind, for all saddles
except the System IV, V, VII, IX and X panels, get a large Phillips screwdriver. For the System IV, V, VII, IX
and X use the adjuster tool or an Allen wrench. Find the hole in the panel where the pedestal is located.
Starting with the front mounts, carefully remove the screw from the mount. If the saddle has the adjustable
System IV, you need to turn the adjuster out 1/2 inch, then hold the mount with hex nut wrench or pliers
while turning with the adjuster tool to break the Loctite. Be careful not to damage the threads on the adjuster
mount and do not lose any of the washers! (Please note that the washers on some of the saddles are beveled
and so the beveled side must be against the cone part of the saddle’s insert-mount). For the rear of the saddle,
you must take great care to find the hole in the backer layer to unscrew the panel. You must slide your panel
forward and back until you find the hole that your adjuster tool will fit into. If you do not do this carefully
and very gently, you will break or crack your backer layer and will have a bigger problem than misadjusted
panels. After your panels are loose, add a few drops of "Loctite Red ® " (located at any auto department;
it bonds metal to metal). Then screw the panel back on with all washers in place, starting with the rear
panels. Tighten firmly, as if you were to putting a lid on a jar to put back in your refrigerator, but not as tight
as you would if you were shipping the jar. Once done, back the screw out one revolution for System I, II,
III, and VI. For the System V and VII, back the screw out ¾ of a revolution. Then put the panel on the front
mounts, adding a few drops of "Loctite Red ®." Allow the glue to set for the time specified on the Loctite
directions. For any other concerns please call and I will be happy to assist or direct you to those saddle
makers that can repair the flexible panel system saddles.
5) Place your hand on the underside of the panel over the area where the panel is mounted to the tree, push
with your fingers and palm of your hand. You SHOULD NOT feel any lump or bulge. If you do, do not ride
your saddle and contact the nearest repair center.
6) The mountings on the saddles are steel; on the advanced systems - hardened steel. In both cases you need
to keep them rust free so use WD-40 as a solvent very sparingly and only for this purpose. You also will
need to need to oil your mounts and washers (the washers that slide and work against the Delrin panels need
to be lubricated). Use 3-In-One Household Oil. As a second option, you can also use white lithium grease
sold in spray cans with a straw, but you will need to use this heavily. Drip this well into and around the
mounts located directly under the saddle tree and above the topside of the panel. Do this monthly
7) If your saddle has been in a wreck, and you hear clicking and cracking, your Delrin panels may be cracked
or the rivets used in the building process.
8) As time passes and your saddle becomes very used you may hear a clicking from under the mounts. This
sound may be the mount and washer assembly. The clicking is that "joint" catching on the washers. The
washers may be dirty or rusty. If this is the case you can use WD-40 to remove the rust. Then OIL with 3In-One Household Oil. If you can still hear the clicking and you have put on between 7,000 and 13,000 miles
or for the advanced systems double that amount, you may find that your mounts are worn and need
replacing.
Where do I oil the panels on my panel saddle? Put some drops of oil (3 in one Household oil) directly on
the Delrin-panel (the white plastic). Then move the panel to distribute the oil under the washer/rear mount.
Depending on the length of time you ride, and especially if you ride often, the inserts should be oil several times
a year. This (3 in One Household oil) can be purchased at any warehouse, supermarket or automotive store etc. It comes in a small plastic or
metal bottle with a thin straw like tube for easy access to the mounts and
inserts. Oil all 4 mounts and try to aim downward toward the panels.
This will keep the inserts and panels lubricated to let the panels move
freely. Oil the front and rear mounts.
125
Q UESTIONS - TACK
continued
How do I properly cinch up my western saddle? Do I tie a latigo knot? You do not tie a latigo knot. That
will create bulk under your leg and make a bulge against the horse's side. Instead, take the latigo strap from
the saddle, run it down through the back of the D-ring on the cinch then back up through the front of the Dring on the saddle, then back down through the D-ring on the cinch. Then give your saddle a bit of a push to
the off side (side you do not mount up from). Place your left hand on the horse's side or shoulder area, then
with your right hand pull the latigo strap hard, straight out towards your waist, pulling the cinch across the
horse's underside, not just up on one side (The same as, for example, a drawstring on your pants: if you just
pull on one side, that side will pull on your waist harder, but if you pull out to the side and then around you
will have a more even and comfortable fit.) Some saddles will actually have latigo rigging on both sides, so
that the pull will be exactly equal, but giving that saddle a bit of a shove to the off side will give you the same
results as an even pull. Don't tighten down the saddle yet. Look everything over and let the horse breathe.
Now go back and tighten the saddle down. Pull up firmly on the near side, then put the tongue of the cinch
buckle in the hole of the latigo strap and pull back up on the latgio strap until the buckle is firmly in place.
Next, thread the tail of the latigo through the slit in the latigo keeper located below the fork or swells of the
saddle. The cinch should be tight, because when you get on, it will loosen some. It's a good idea to have
someone on the ground check your cinch while you're in the saddle. If your helper can pull the cinch more
than an inch away from the horse's body, it's too loose. He should be able to comfortably slide his hand
under the cinch, but not pull it away from the horse’s body. Remember too, when you ride in hot weather
or on very long rides, your horse can lose up to 50 pounds of body weight in sweat, so check your girth. You
will be amazed at how loose it can become.
How do I use Shims? Shims come in sets of three for each side; they can be purchased for the front of the
saddle, the center or the rear, each designed to help certain conditions. The front shims are designed to allow
you to raise the front of your saddle (if your horse is rump high), to fill in a hole behind the shoulder blade,
or to balance your saddle from right to left. How do you do this? First get yourself a helper. Next, square
your horse up. Have your helper hold him, squaring him up with his front feet even. Have your helper move
his mane out of the way so you can clearly see his shape. Then stand behind your horse and look over his
rump to his shoulder and withers area. Look at his shoulders. Is one side significantly larger than the other?
If so, you need to put front shims in on the smaller side. While your helper holds them (the largest shim
always towards the horse), you will have to sculpt the low side to match the high side. Now that you know
he has a weak side you will need to post off of that diagonal, encourage him to take that lead and longe him
in the direction to use his weak side, building up that shoulder muscle. You also will need to check him
monthly, because his shape will change, especially if you are riding him in a flex-system saddle. If you don’t
check his conformation, you won’t know when he no longer needs the shims. You could be adding bulk
where it isn’t needed and cause dry spots and white hair. If your horse has a hollow behind the shoulder, you
will need to fill that in to make a level saddling area. The flex-panel system saddles will flex and will "fall"
into that hole and the panel will be flexed up so that it is "bottoming" out on the hard saddle tree itself. If this
happens, all of your saddle’s suspension has been used up (similar to filling the back of your trunk with
concrete blocks and bottoming out the shock absorbers). You will need to fill in that hollow behind the
shoulder so that does not happen. The hollow usually is caused by muscle atrophy; as I mentioned earlier,
his shape will change so you need to check his body monthly. If you do not, you will could more harm than
good. The center shims are used to fill in the dip on a sway-backed horse. Lastly, the rear shims are used in
raising the rear of the saddle or in eliminating loin rubbing. For more on loin rubbing go to the horse-related
questions that were answered earlier. * Note: I recently discovered that many of the new saddles that are
being marketed with the Delrin panels are not constructed to fit a wide range of back shapes, (excluding the
System 7, 9 and 10 flex-panel saddles.) I have seen and fitted these saddles. The simple act of girthing up the
saddle on the horse will bottom out the panels due to the saddle tree construction. You must check this while
someone is in the saddle. Walk your horse around slowly and observe the panels. They should NOT be
banging or hitting the bottom part of the saddle. If so, you will need a special pad that has a "full length"
pocket, using shims to help restore your saddle’s suspension or you may need to get an entirely different
saddle. Do not ride in a saddle that has no suspension. You may sore your horse.
Is it true that the System VII, IX and X saddle will fit almost any size horse without too much
adjustment? Yes, these System VII, IX and X will fit nearly all horses with little – adjusting. The biggest
adjustment will be the girth length. The same saddle will fit a horse that takes a 20-inch girth up to the largest
girth (so far) of 54 inches (and that is on a saddle with dropped rigging-long billets). These saddles
consistently amaze even me. The biggest limitation is the tree that these incredible panels are mounted on
and how they are assembled.
Is the System X saddle just a “knock - off” of an Ortho-Flex saddle? No, this is an entirely new system
and is not an Ortho-Flex® saddle; it is a new system. True, they use Delrin in the building process, but the way
the Delrin is cut, shaped, and layered, using advanced computer technology in conjunction with pressure
testing equipment has put this saddle in a league of its own.
126
How can I tell if my horse is asymmetrical? See shimming above.
Q UESTIONS - TACK
continued
Why is my saddle slipping? Saddles can slip in two directions, side to side and forward and back. To figure
out why your saddle is slipping answer the following questions:
• Is your girth too long and you can’t get it tight enough? If so you need a shorter girth. Is your girth too
short? Is it more than 6 inches away from the D rings of your western saddle or on a English saddle is it on
the lower third of the billets? If so, you need a longer girth.
• Is your girth or rear cinch off center? Both sides need to reach the same place on the horse’s body. Is your
girth too long and you can’t get it tight enough? If so you need a shorter girth.
• If your saddle has this option, is your adjustable rigging set the same on both sides? If your rigging is fixed,
is it the same on both sides?
• Is your girth or rear cinch off center? Both sides need to reach the same place on the horse’s body. Is your
girth too big; you can’t get it tight enough? If so you need a smaller girth.
• Are you using a girth with elastic? This is a big no-no. The flex in the panels added to that of the girth will
make your saddle bouncy and less secure, and will cause slipping.
• Are you giving your saddle a bit of a push to the off side before you begin to girth up? You need to do this,
so you bring your saddle back to center when you tighten the girth or mount up.
• Is your saddle pad binding your horse’s spine? If so, your saddle can’t "lock" down. Make sure you draw
your pad up between the panels, but not so much that you jam it between the panels, keeping them from
flexing properly.
• Check your horse’s conformation. One shoulder could be larger than the other causing your saddle to slip
off to one side. Or your horse could be rump high causing the saddle to slip forward. Follow the instructions
for shimming, to help with this situation or select a saddle with the adjustable System IV.
• If you saddle has the adjustable rigging, check to make sure that on both sides, top and bottom are the same.
• Are your saddle panels on Systems, I, II, III or any of the modified systems, touching in the center and not
able to flex down? If so you need to send your saddle in for repair. Also perform a safety check on your
saddle.
• Are you using two pads under your saddle? Unless you have a real good reason (and keeping your pad
clean is not one), you should use only one thin pad.
• Is your horse shaped like a football or beach ball? Round, rotund horses are hard to fit. You might consider
switching to a contoured leather girth and using a breast collar and crupper. You might also consider trying
a Tacky Tack Pad, by Hill View Farms â, to be used under an already thin pad or alone under your saddle.
If you do this you must make sure that you draw the pad up between the panels so as NOT to bind the
horse’s spine. All of these will help stabilize your saddle. For saddles that do not have the advance System
you will need to select saddle models with wider trees, since the panels are limited by the saddle tree they
are on. Or select saddles that have Systems beyond VII.
• The panel saddles are designed to move with the horse and to not "dig in" behind the shoulder blades.
Because of this, your saddle may slip forward when going down steep hills. I have some horses with
"perfect" saddle fitting backs and our saddles do not move but an inch, going down a hill where the horses
are sitting on their butts! I have others with very broad shoulders, where the shoulder and back are level with
each other, but they have nice withers. With those horses I have to use a crupper. The panel saddles on these
horses do not curve down into their backs and, if I do not have a crupper, my saddle slips forward and I’m
literally on my horse’s neck whispering in his ears! Use a crupper in this situation and if you are bounding
up those steep hills you also will need to use a breast collar. Adjust both these pieces of equipment as
described on saddling basics.
• Are you mounting up in such a way that you are pulling the saddle over? If so, you may need to use a
mounting block when mounting your horse. Also make sure you grab a bit of mane and not the saddle when
mounting.
• I know this is obvious, but it has happened - are your stirrups (fenders and/or leathers) the same length?
Double check and measure.
How do I use the adjustable System IV? This system allows for the adjustment in distance of the panel
away from the saddle tree of up to one inch. This allows the user to optimally balance the saddle, for the
rider and for the horse with truly unusual conformation challenges, such as one shoulder significantly larger
than the other, or a rump-high horse. This adjustment can be made easily and quickly with the use of an
Allen wrench “adjuster tool”. To adjust, insert the adjuster tool in the small slot on the underside of the
panel, located under the front mount. Wiggle it around gently - until you find the “sweet spot,” then turn the
handle of your adjuster tool and customize your saddle’s height. If you find that the adjustment of your
saddle does not “stick” in place, maintaining position, apply a few drops of loctite blue (found in any
automotive department store). To apply this, adjust the mount to it’s farthest outward position, wipe
away any oily residue, then apply a few drops of “locite blue” and re-set the mount to the position desired.
How do I meausre for a stirrup? When foot with shoe is in the stirrup, the ball of the foot is on the tread
and the foot is over to one side: “There must be 15-20 mm or 1/2 to 3/4 inch to spare when the foot is in the
stirrup over to one side” Pony Club Gear Check Guidelines -Jan 2006. (Or I would like to say: A
finger width on either side of the foot.)
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Why have I not heard about lubricating these panel saddles before? That is a darn good question! If
you think about this, any moving part needs lubrication. Take your car’s engine for example; it will not last
long if you do not change or add oil. The philosophy of not telling customers the whole truth is exactly what
many manufacturers are counting on, to make even more money off of you! The repair and the saddle pad
business is BIG.) It was not until 2002 that we learned of this ourselves, and, like many of you, we learned
the hard way. No matter what saddle you have, if is has a moving part, keep it lubricated and your saddle
investment will last a very long time.
My leg is getting pinched under the leathers, biothane or leather. Why? This is caused primarily by
the rider not carrying enough weight in the stirrup and/or too much leg movement (your leg could be getting
tired). Wearing half or full chaps, full britches with leather or suede leggings, wearing full-length boots, or,
alternatively, covering that biothane or leather strap with the Merino lambs wool leg comforters as shown
in treasusres.
What is a Mantie vs. Panniers? You use a mantie tarp and rope to make a mantie load. Hard to balance
each side until you get it tied and then you can sometimes adjust by raising or lowering the mantie on the
horse. Panniers are boxes that are formed to and loaded on to the pack tree. You attach with the short leather
straps that go under the dowel onto the tree. If you have a decker tree, just buckle through the decker rings.
If you have a sawbuck or decker rings with knobs you buckle the strap and place the loop on the far side of
the tree. Easy to balance load and unload. If your stock likes to jump things you must use a bottom strap
to hold the pack down because the pannier could come off.
Why does my saddle "pad" (ie. blanket / booties / easy pad / saddle sox / riding cloth / numnah have
more hair and dirt on both the front and rear ends? Good question and I get this one a lot. Under the
flexible panel saddle your horse can move more. More movement means that the panels are working and the
pad is doing its job. Put your hand in the center of your back (about the area of your middle waist) and twist
your upper and lower body in opposite direction. Notice that the area does not move but acts as a pivot for
the upper and lower portion of your back. Your horse’s back works the same way. With the flexible system,
he will be able to bend and flex in both directions and the farther out you move to either end the greater the
swing. This extra movement releases more dirt and hair that collects on your pad. You do need to launder
your pad regularly so it doesn’t dry hard and stiff and perhaps cause abrasions on your horse’s back.
Maintain your saddle pads, and carrying an extra pad is a great idea, especially in the spring and fall when
your horse is shedding.
Have you ever found these saddles not to work? Over the years - and I am talking about all the various
Delrin panels used on the horses, I have found only one confirmed case of the saddle not “working”. In this
case the customer asked me to come out, she was tired of dealing directly with the manufacturer and had
worked with System I, II and then III saddles with no positive results). I evaluated the horse, the rider, the
equipment. The horse was great, the rider superb, the equipment in perfect working order and most of all
the fit was a perfect match of the saddle and horse, but without question the horse could not deal with any
type of movement on his shoulders or back, no matter how many times we tried to disengage his brain. We
tested my theory with the rider riding bare back. The horse behaved as he did with the panel saddle. But
when we put on his “old” saddle, the one he was trained under and had been ridden in for 10 years, he was
wonderful. So, YES, one in a thousand or even 2 in a thousand! I just recently (November 2003) found
another horse who seems to be the same way, but I was not able to personally confirm this. Through e-mail
correspondence I suspect that this may be the second animal, who does not care at all for a panel saddle. So
looking at the percentages and based on testing several systems, with several saddle styles, with various
manufactures, selling well over 1000 of these saddles, and with my background in animal science and as a
sport massage therapist for horses, I can safely say that I have found that some horses, though very few,
will not accept a panel saddle.
What do I look for when purchasing a used panel saddle? www.hillviewfarms.com -Trading post.
I am having trouble with my flexible panel saddle, can you help? www.hill viewfarms.com- questions.
What do others say about these Saddles? Go to www.hillviewfarms.com-testimonials
What saddle pad material is best? Page 39
How do I clean and care for my saddle and tack? Page 41
How do I make a pattern for a saddle sox or saddle pad? Page 39
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How do I fit a bit correctly? Page 7.
Q UESTIONS - P ERSON
Cathy, what issues have you experienced horse camping? Golly, that is a loaded question with a huge
answer. And it depends on what you mean by “issues.” First. let me make clear that when I mention trail
riding, I mean that we are out or gone for 3 to 10 + days and have to make do. Secondly, remember that what
is addressed here are things that can happen and not all of the fun and adventure we have had over lots of
years and many, many miles with no mishaps or “issues”. So with that said, as of spring 2009, here are the
areas I address:
People: We all have been bucked off or fallen off of horses, everyone has had bee stings, Kelly had a bicycle
accident that required stitches, Sonia broke some teeth, Don fractured his finger, and I fractured five ribs, my
arm and a bone in my foot. We always continued with our plans and took the injuries all in stride. Whether
you keep going or abort the trip depends, of course, on how badly the person in your party is injured and
how he or she feels about continuing.
Horses: The horses haven’t come out of our adventures unscathed either. All the horses have had some
type of scrape, kick, bite, and some form of rope burn and nearly all have needed stitches at one time or
other—and all were stitched up in camp, For example, Colina was nearly disemboweled when a stick
flipped up and ripped open her udder. Rhya fell on the trail and dislocated her shoulder; I cranked the leg
around and back in place and we managed to get back to camp, loaded up, and to the vet. Stuart, our musclebound quarter horse has had repeated bouts of azutoria (also known as tying up or Monday morning
sickness). He also got shin splints that later had to have surgery for removal and then a face laceration that
needed sewing up. Denny suffered an impacted caecum, a kick that needed stitches, and numerous bouts
with asthma/allergies and once required an immediate injection of epinephrine; Dakota got moon blindness;
Joya caught West Nile Virus, even though she’d been vaccinated. Henry got the thumps after 2 weeks on the
road – barely made the 5 hour drive to the vet, where an IV that included 500 cc of Calcium saved his life.
Princess had an internal muscle cramping – cause unknown - that I treated with muscle relaxants, then drove
6 hours for a veterinarian consultation. I have had three cases of Ehrlichiosis (Ehrlichia equi), the tick-borne
fever or Lymes as the human population call it. Anaplasma is similar to Potomac horse fever (Ehrlichia
risticii) but does not include diarrhea and laminitis. Both diseases need to be treated with Tetracycline (that
I carry with me at all times) within 24-48 hours for easy outcomes. (We also vaccinate against Potomac but
as of yet there is no approved vaccination for Lymes). Unfortunately, not all the adventures had such
successful outcomes. Mister fractured a sesamoid bone 10 hours from home and had to be put down, Tito
got plural pneumonia on our Montana trip and continued on until we got home, where he was hospitalized
for a month with a drain tube before having to be put down. Basically, anything that can happen to a horse
at home (which that list is double from the above listed) can happen on the trail or in camp. The only
difference is that you’re usually miles from home and the vet. This means you need a comprehensive horse
first-aid kit and you need to know how to use it. It also means that you need to know your horse well
enough to recognize when he’s in distress before an issue becomes life threatening. And, of course, you need
to make sure that you’ve taken all the preventive measures that you can—like making sure your horse is fit
enough for the ride you’re planning and has all his vaccinations.
Equipment: Once I ripped the fuel tank off the truck as I was turning around in the pitch dark in a horse
pasture with a stump that the owner forgot to tell me about. That mishap also blew a tire that was mounted
on a split rim—a nasty mess. Twice the bearings on the engine fan went out, sending the fan blades through
the radiator 2 hours from home. Once the transmission on the truck went out 11 hours from home. And,
of course we’ve had numerous flat tires on trailers and vehicles. Once we had five flats in 4 weeks, two of
which happened within 6 miles of each other! (Now, I change all the tires every 2 years—regardless of
wear.) On one trip we lost a complete trailer wheel, including the rim, 3 hours from home. On another the
RV windshield blew in 4 hours from home, but we continued on slowly. We backed into a tree and smashed
the ladder of the RV, drove up onto a cement barrier, and smashed the side of the RV, hooked a picnic table
and bent the bumper of the RV. Obviously visibility is an issue when driving these rigs. Over time the RV
frame cracked because it was not strong enough to handle the load it was pulling. On one trip, the RV awning
blew open and part of it ripped off going 65 miles per hour down the freeway. Wheel bearings have gone out
on the horse trailer – that only will happen once – now we grease and repack yearly. Brakes failed on the
RV because it had almost no brake fluid. Many times belts have broken and engines overheated, so now we
always check the oil, transmission fluid, and brake fluid, belts, and water levels before each trip. Again,
preventive measures make all the difference. All to often, as we all know, Murphy’s Law comes into play—
anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. So, anyway, that is roughly what has happened so far and you
can be sure that more is still to come! I believe that stuff happens whether you stay at home or venture out
on the trail. I also believe in living life and not letting it go by. So I say to you … buck up and go for it, ’cause
if you don’t you’ll never know what you’re missing. Embrace every moment. Live life as if today were
your last.
What is under mounted mean? Under mounted is when you have a horse that is not strong or big enough
to carry you. You and your saddle should not exceed 20% of the horse’s weight. If your weight greater than
200 lbs., it is doubly important to make sure you have a saddle that adequately distributes your weight.
Remember a saddle must do two things: 1) distribute the riders weight evenly and 2) offer the rider
support. A Horse will dance and jig in an attempt to avoid pressure. When stopped he will streatch 129
Q UESTIONS - PERSON
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out. He will also carry his high thus hollowing out his back in an attempt to avoid this pressure. (When
horse carries his head / nose high it makes it difficult for the rider to control his mount, thus the rider puts
a tie-down on this horse in-order to hold his head down.) Please note that when a horse is under this type
of stress he will be subject to colic and heat exhaustion. To avoid all of this make sure you are not under
mounted and have proper fitting tack. Also, do not be too quick to judge this rider for we are all on this life’s
path of learning together. (photo’s of this on web site)
Hill View Farms do you have any of your horses for sale and do you take outside horses in for
training? No, we do not take outside horses in for training and yes, occasionally we do have horses for sale.
What saddles do you personally ride? Ok here goes: A 15" Ortho-Flex Express Lite from the original
Ortho-Flex Company with System X panels. A 14" Traditional from the original Ortho-Flex saddle company with an Eddie Steel saddle tree and System VII panels. One – 13" Trail Partner saddles from the
original Ortho-Flex saddle company with System II panels. A 16.5-inch original Ortho-flex Stitchdown
saddle with System II panels. 16" original Ortho-Flex Patriot Officer Saddle with System V panels. A 17.5
inch American-Flex Stitchdown with adjustable System IV and V panels. A 17.5 Pleasure Plantation from
Evolutionary saddles with System X. A 16" original Ortho-Flex Caliente with adjustable System IV and VII
System panels. A 16" Soft-Seat Traditional Ortho-Flex saddle – from the original company with the System
1X panels. A soft-seat traditional with the Eddie Steel tree with System X panels and lastly a regular
traditional with the Eddie Steel tree from the original Ortho-Flex Saddle company that cannot be used until
it has been converted to the System X panels so for now it is office decoration as seating. My personal
comment on all of this is, IF your saddle fits correctly and your horse can move freely and is not in pain
(verified by PHYSICAL PALPATION), then you have no reason to change your current saddle. "If it ain’t
broke then don’t fix it," and do your yearly equipment check on all your tack.
What is a saddle conversion and what is an upgrade? A conversion puts Delrin panels onto your current
rigid tree saddle. An up grade puts higher system panels on your current flexible panel saddle. Go to
hillviewfarms.com for a current listing.Contact Hill View Farms.
What do you recommend for keeping mice out of your horse trailer and /or RV during winter
storage? In-side, moth balls kept in old nylon stockings or socks work great, but we found that the RV has
to air out for a week or longer before we can stay in it without dying from the residual fumes. Then we
discovered Bounce dryer sheets. They are wonderful, smell great, and the mice hate them! They also work
as wipes on your horses legs to repel biting insects. We put those dryer sheets inside the RV and trailer and
leave the moth balls out-side sprinkled around the tires, to deter the mice from crawling up and getting in.
When I first tried these saddles I felt like I was off the horse. Yes, that is correct. You are not on the
horse’s back. You are slightly off the horse’s back, allowing him to bend and move. Believe it or not, you are
actually physically closer to your horse and what you’re feeling is your horse moving under you. We know
that English saddles allow you the "closest feeling" so let’s use that saddle as an example. Put a rigid tree
English saddle on your horse’s bare (with no pad) back and measure from the horse’s back to the seat of the
saddle. Then put the saddle (System V, VII, IX or X) on your horse’s bare back. You will notice that this
saddle will measure closer to the horse than the regular English saddle. How can that be? First look at the
panel. The panel itself is just 3/4 inch thick and the mount adds only another 1/2 inch before contact with
the hard saddle tree, so you are a mere 1 1/4 inch from the horse. No other saddle with all the flocking and
padding is this close. Now add your regular saddle pad and compare it to the pads used with the advanced
system panel saddles. Is your pad 1/4-inch thick? Because the panels are so soft and pliable they do not
require a thick pad to protect the horse’s sensitive back from an ill-fitting saddle. Now re-measure using
your rigid tree saddle with the pad. How far is your saddle off the horse’s back? So, back to the original
question: with the flexible panel system, you are not directly pressing on the horse’s back with a hard rigid
tree. You are on your horse’s back with a saddle that will allow him to lift, bend and use his back. For some
riders this requires more skill in riding. Because you are now allowing your horse greater freedom of
movement you too will experience this movement. But with a little riding you will find your seat and
balance and will never go back to a rigid tree saddle. What a thrill for both you and your horse.
Will you ever carry a real Peruvian saddle with this system on it? No, but Rain Tree Tack does. Now
you can get an Original Peruvian Saddle with this amazing system on it! Call Cheryl at Rain Tree Tack directly
at 817-594-1597 or Email [email protected].
Why should I purchase a flexible panel saddle? Looking back through the years of buying, selling, and
trading countless new and used saddles, searching for the perfect saddle at a bargain price, being never quite
happy, was a yearly event that passed like the seasons. When the first Delrin Panel System II saddle came
into my life that trend was broken forever! The reality of the situation is that a top quality Delrin panel
130 saddle will cost a couple of thousand dollars. I suggest setting your sights high and purchasing the
continued
most technologically advanced equipment on the market today. Take out an installment loan if you need to,
but think big and bite your lip. A year or two down the line you will be glad you made the investment,
because if you don’t, you undoubtedly will want to upgrade your saddle. You will probably spend more
money in the long run than if you bought an advanced flexible panel saddle in the first place. The results you
and your horse will enjoy with the advanced panel system will forever be worth the initial expense.
I have heard that these saddles are no good, is that true? No, no, no! These saddles ARE the only saddle
to use on your horse. If someone is having trouble it is caused by one or a combination of the following.
The Horse. The horse may have an unresolved issue (i.e., unbalanced shoulder development, short back,
high croup, narrow girthing area, mutton withers, "razor" withers, etc.). The horse’s physical and mental
condition also need to be assessed. Does he have any old injuries, behavioral issues, or bad memories?
The Tack. Does the fit correctly? . Something also may be technically wrong with the saddle. Remember,
people make saddles and tack, and people make mistakes. The equipment should be reviewed annually for
function and any worn out, missing or damaged parts should be repaired or replaced. Cars will not function
properly if in disrepair and neither will tack. The Person. Believe it or not, the person might be doing
something wrong.
What suggestions do you have on what to carry with you in your saddle bags? Lip balm; cell phone;
a global positioning system (GPS) unit; tissues; a knife or Leather man ®; a hoof pick; a flashlight (preferably a head unit); fly masks for both horse and rider; an Easy boot or similar device, insect repellent that can
be used on both horse and rider, extra reins, leather strips, snaps and Chicago screws: a lead rope or other
rope, a camera and or binoculars; flora and fauna reference guides; a compass; blood stop powder, gentian
violet, Vet wrap ®, nonstick bandages; waterproof tape; medications for horse or rider (e.g. aspirin, epinephrine, antihistamine); a water bottle (preferable a filtered water bottle); a bandana, a pen and paper,
sunglasses, sun screen, lolli pop’s-or hard candy; granola bars; map of area; wire cutters and /or small hoof
nippers; a flask of 151 - (for starting fires, disinfecting and easing rider pain,) matches; a whistle; money;
rain coat and a weapon or other deterrent - if riding in the wilderness.
Would you run in wooden shoes? That is exactly what we are asking our horses to do if they are not
saddled in a flexible system saddle. Unless you are riding a flexible system saddle your horse bears more
than the responsibility of the ride, he bears the concussion and shearing forces of a solid tree against its
moving shoulders. The system has thin flexible panels attached to a solid wooden tree by mountings, which
provide a ball and socket effect, allowing the skirts to flex at different angles from front to rear. When the
horse turns, the panel flexes in an arc on the side that the horse flexes and straightens on the opposite side,
moving with the horse and allowing freedom of movement. The best advice I can give you is to put you hand
under the saddle-any saddle either on a solid saddle stand or on a horse’s back. Put your hand under the
front, the center and the back of the saddle. Have someone sit in that saddle, lean forward and back and
bounce up and down. What you feel on your hand IS what your horse feels. FACT, FACT, FACT!
With the Evolutionary Saddle, why do you use nylon webbing instead of leather (harness leather)
or polypropylene webbing? And why don’t you use rivets to attach the saddles' rigging?First, we use
nylon because it is stronger than leather. It also will not rot away and weaken over time as leather or
polypropylene products do. At times we use polypropylene sewn in conjunction with leather to strengthen
areas where the overkill of nylon is not needed. Second, we sew both leather and nylon instead of using
rivets because using rivets actually takes material away. A hole is pre-punched to put the rivet in), weakening
the structure; in time rivets may pull through. Copper rivets also corrode over time and weaken leather, so
care must be taken if you have these on your tack. We do use rivets where they are the only way to attach
metal or hard plastic to leather. We cannot sew through metal or hard plastic. We also may use Chicago
screws instead of rivets because they can be unscrewed and taken apart to replace worn pieces. The down
side of Chicago screws is that you must take care to add a drop of Lock-Tight-red so the screw will not
accidentally come apart and you lose a rein. . Sewing is the strongest and most secure way of securing
nylon webbing. Therefore, whenever possible, we sew all nylon products. We also use nylon thread
because cotton and polyester thread, rots over time. Nylon, whether it be webbing, rope, thread, or fabric
is the product of choice for the marine industry because it resists salts and damp conditions. We strive to
use only the best materials for the job at hand, so don’t think that nylon is not strong—just look at your cars
seat belts. These are the same belts that take astronauts into space and keep our troops safe within their
parachute jumping harnesses. Yes - that webbing is all 100 percent nylon, and it is sewn, not riveted.
Why does American-Flex show up on your web site? Over the years I have come up with and purchased
many names or have had the persons that I worked with purchase these names. Naturally I purchased Hill
View Farms â and Evolutionary TM saddles among many others such as Camping with Cathy, as my
camping with horses DVD launches. Now for the rub, when you register a domain name, (and you can have
hundreds) you must select one as your target or master that all the other names point to. Well that is
what I have. As American-Flex was in print throughout many publications, I thought it best to just 131
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leave it there for now and have the other names directed to it. Yes, it can be changed, but when dealing in
printed materials the wait time is 10 years. Other companies have modified our names or purchased them
in another market, such as .org, .net, .co, etc., to imitate those currently owned by Hill View Farms.
Iwent to a clinic and listened to a saddle maker talk about trees and saddle fitting. He said that
flexible panels would be ideal for the horse’s back, but he’s seen horses develop hot spots and
pressure sores beneath the rockers, so he doesn’t recommend them. Can you address that issue?
Yes, your saddle maker is correct on both counts. There is nothing better than a flexible panel saddle for
achieving a good fit for a horse that changes shape over time or for a rider who rides multiple horses with
differently shaped backs. Just like your car’s engine needs oil to function correctly, so does your saddle. You
will need keep your saddle lubricated, and perform a yearly safely check to keep it in top performing
condition. Unfortunately for the past 20 years – and even currently, (YES, you heard correctly) to my
knowledge, no other manufacturer informs customers on this detail. If the rider does not maintain his saddle
or purchases a used saddle that has not been maintained, that rider unknowingly may be using a saddle with
worn out Delrin panels and/or rockers, which will cause hot spots under the mounting pedestals. If the rider
properly maintains his saddle, this should never occur. Some dealers may go out of their way, as I do, to
inform the consumer of the maintenance required. We want this saddle to last you as long as you ride. (But
if you’re like me, who rides in several disciplines, you’ll need several different saddles.)
What can I expect as a horse owner? As a trainer/instructor, I tell all my students that five things will
happen to you if you stick around horses long enough. If you survive these five things and still enjoy the
horse, you are a true equestrian. You will be stepped on, be kicked, fall off, be bitten, be bucked off. All of
these things will happen to you in time, so embrace each experience and remember that everyone else who
is into horses has had the same thing happen to them. As my 6 year old daughter said loudly (crying and half
smiling) after she got up from being bucked off , "Mom, I’m a true horse person now!" I did not get it at first,
but then when I asked her she said that was the last of the five things that hadn’t happened to her until now.
Good Grief! * A note * for new horse owners: Horse ownership is 10 percent love, hugs and kisses and 90
percent hard work, with pockets full of money. Caution: If you participate in equine activities you will be
injured at some point. Injuries can range from minor cuts, abrasions and/or contusions, to death. The
question is not if you will be injured but when. You accept all inherent risks, because all horses are living
creatures with minds of their own and can exhibit unpredictable behavior and unexpected reactions.
I hear a "clicking" when I ride my panel saddle, what is that? That clicking sound can be several things.
First, if your saddle is new, the advanced panel system uses various adhesives during the assembly process.
There may be some excess adhesive that leaked beyond the target area and with movement is breaking free.
This is standard, like opening up a new book. The second possibility is that you may have your saddle too
far forward on your horse’s shoulders so re-adjust the rigging to set it back a little. Third, the sound may be
coming from the rocker mounts and washer assembly. You will need to oil this mount and the rear mounts
with "3-in-one Household Oil." This is available in any warehouse, supermarket or automotive store, etc.
Lastly, if your saddle has been in a wreck and you hear clicking and cracking that does not go away with
oiling, it may be that your Delrin panels are cracked, or the rivets used in the building process of the
progressive loading System II, III, V, VI, and VII may be broken. (You may also notice dry spots or whit hair
on your horse’s back, which is an indication that something is not right). Again, contact your dealer for the
nearest service representative.
What is Delrin? Early in 1950 research director and chemists Frank C McGrew developed a tough and heat
resistant material he called "synthetic stone." During the years of development, which involved a patent
dispute, DuPont patented Delrin® in 1956. Delrin® (Polyoxymethylene) is an acetal homopolymer resin that
is a durable lightweight crystalline plastic, which uses a breakthrough in stabilization technology. It has an
excellent balance of desirable properties that bridge the gap between metals and ordinary plastics. Delrin has a
unique combination of strength, stiffness, tensile strength, hardness, dimensional stability, toughness, fatigue
resistance, solvent and fuel resistance, abrasion resistance, low wear, low friction, creep resistance under a wide
range of temperature and humidity conditions, with high fatigue endurance, corrosion resistance and mechanical
resilience. Due to these outstanding characteristics Delrin is popular for its versatility within a broad use of
industry applications, such as automotive, aerospace, electrical and medical applications.
Why did you name your saddle line Evolutionary TM saddles? This name was selected first of all, because
I did not want any affiliation with the word “flex”, as there are too many companies using the word “flex” when
selling their products (many of which do not flex). Secondly, we wanted a name that would reflect the
technological growth and changes that have occurred within the industry and we wanted to embrace that change.
So thanks to my dear friend Sharon, the name EVOLUTIONARY TM Saddles was born.
“What we have learned about business is: Companies that produce quality products, support home
132 grown industries, market fairly, provide superior customer service and have strong product knowledge from start to finish, will succeed!”
QUESTIONS - P ERSON
continued
Why did start your own saddle company? From 1996 to 2007, 12 years of trying to get saddle
companies to do what needed to be done has been a roller-coaster ride at best for Hill View Farms®. The
knowledge that we, (Don and Cathy) have gained dealing with the mix of good, not so good, and horrible
saddle builders have given us a lifetime of knowledge. Years of repairing what the others could not has
blazed the trail for our biggest adventure yet. Located just 8.5 miles from the farm, Hill View Farms ® LLC
together with Tauer Manufacturing LLC are now manufacturing saddles and tack. Based on what we have
accomplished on both a personal and professional level, we are thrilled to now have the entire facility
under one roof. At last, we control quality, design and materials used, with everything being built to our
exact specifications. The new saddle line is called Evolutionary Saddles™ because Hill View Farms®
will adopt changing technology to continually improve our products for both horse and rider. Join us on
this marvelous journey by visiting our web site. Hill View Farms.com to view first hand how dreams can
come true. Yes, we could have settled or decided not to sell saddles at all, but it IS for the love of the equine
and my (our) dear, dear horses that we love so very much. We, I - Cathy - Owe it to them.
I feel that I am sitting crooked on my horse. What is wrong? Several things could cause this sensation.
1) Check your animal’s conformation. 2) If your saddle has the adjustable System IV on the saddle tree, you
may not have both sides adjusted evenly or your adjustment may not be maintaining the desired position.
If that is the case, turn your adjuster all the way out, wipe away any grease that may be on it, then add a few
drops of Loctite Blue® (found in any automotive supply store) and turn the adjuster back into position. 3)
Your stirrup length may not be the same on both sides. Do not depend on the markings on the stirrup
leathers or fenders themselves- measure the length. 4) If your saddle has adjustable rigging, check to make
sure that both sides are set the same and that neither one has come loose. 5) Check that the girth is equally
up on both sides and that it is the proper length. 6) Your conformation –is one leg longer than the other - hip
or back issues? 7) Perform a saddle safety check. 8) If all possibilities are exhausted, send the saddle to a
repair shop for inspection. Although rare, it could have one mount that is set in further than the other or a
faulty rivet.
Why are there not more dealers selling these advanced panel saddles? The bottom line is that it takes
about 2 hours to properly educate the customer on saddle fit, horse palpation, and the function of the
saddle. There are not many stores, web sites or catalogs willing to devote enough time or space to do this.
Also these businesses know that in a person’s lifetime they will buy 5-7 saddles because the horse changes
shape or the customer gets a different horse and the rigid tree saddle will need to be changed. If the business
sold the advanced panel system saddle in the first place, their repeat business would be lost. It all boils down
to money.
Will Delrin panels wear out? Yes, All Delrin used in the panels of all brands of saddles will wear out in
time, just like tires on your car. The time depends on several factors-the rider’s weight, the maintenance and
upkeep of the Delrin panels and how much you ride. With proper maintenance and using, for example, rider
weight of 160 lbs., you can expect 25,000 plus miles from the improved System IX and X panels. This is
because the technology of this panel system has progressed with the layering of materials. This progressive
loading offers a longer and more useful life for your panels. As with any saddle, at least once a year, perform
a safety check on all your equipment.
How do I protect myself against unscrupulous merchants? If a vendor or merchant is not taking credit
cards, that should trigger a red flag unless the merchant has a real good reason. You’ll have to be the judge.
If the bank or lending institution will not give the merchant or vendor credit to enable them to take credit
cards, then the buyer should beware. Credit card companies do offer consumers recourse against unscrupulous merchants and misrepresented merchandise. Using credit cards also aids the merchant by ensuring
payment for goods/services provided. Always, always get a trial period, with a money back guarantee and
be wary of signing any contracts before finalizing your purchase! ". "What can I do? Please, can you help
me? "I have a saddle that does not fit and they (the company/tack dealer) will not return my call or take the
saddle back". I get calls like this on average of once a week. Your only recourse is your Credit Card Company
or bank. For those of you who are looking for a saddle, heed this advice. Never, never, purchase a saddle
unless you are able to return it after a test ride for your money back. If a retailer will not give you a money
back test ride on a saddle, TURN AND WALK AWAY! It makes no difference who makes the saddle or
what brand, if you can not get a test-ride with a money back agreement then you WILL BE TAKEN
ADVANTAGE OF and both you and your horse will have paid dearly for your mistake.
How good is a warranty and what is the warranty on the Evolutionary TM saddle? My personal
opinion is, "A warranty is only as good as the paper it is written on." Look at what happened to the saddle
companies here in the USA: The Brown Saddle Company, The ‘Original’ Ortho-Flex Saddle Company, The
Rocking R ( old Timberline) Saddle Company. They all went belly-up. I can only tell you that with my
years of trials and tribulations with saddle companies, I will conduct business only with those
companies who comply with our mission statement. Products from those companies are the ones I 133
can whole heartedly put our name HILL VIEW FARMS ® on, for their quality, service,
continued
dependability and above all else, INTEGRITY! As a consumer you can trust Hill View Farms. We offer the
customer a full money back guarantee on all products with the HILL VIEW FARMS label as specified in the
"trial period" of product use, see the facts. The warranty on Evolutionary TM saddles is 2 years for quality
and workmanship with 20 years on the tree.
What is a Trophy Saddle? Funny you should ask, because we too were unfamiliar with this term, when
on our travels to the over half a dozen saddle manufacturing plants across the county, we uncovered the
true meaning, function and purpose of a trophy saddle. A trophy saddle replaces a trophy that one would
win at an event. A trophy saddle is made from the cheapest saddle trees and leather (the heavy dry kind)
and is highlighted with a black indelible marker. It is flashy; hand-tooled by laborers, and not meant to fit
a horse, but to be used as a trophy for your home, show room or barn. The owner of one company told
us that they sold approximately 12,000 trophy saddles a year to clubs and various organizations, which
represents over 90% of their business. Also selling this type of saddle is easy and very profitable as there
are no returns or saddling fitting issues (because the saddles are NOT intended to be used for riding). He
then told us a story of how one recipient who won a trophy saddle, called to complain that the saddle was
crooked and did not fit her horse and “would they replace or fix the saddle.” He told her, “Ma’am it is a
trophy saddle.” “We don’t make trophy saddles to fit horses.” Boy did we feel silly as we too had no idea
that those prizes were intended for decoration purposes and if you got lucky, maybe, just maybe you
could find a horse that it would fit. Now this may not be true for all trophy saddles, but this is what we
uncovered.
An interesting perspective on price: Written by John Ruskin, who lived between 1819 and 1900. “It’s unwise
to pay too much. But it’s worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money, that is all.
When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing
the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot. It
can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run. And if you
do that, you will have enough to pay for something better. There is hardly anything in the world that someone
can’t make a little worse and sell a little cheaper - and people who consider price alone are this man’s lawful
prey.”
Kelly and Moo-moo.
Cathy riding Colina in Montana
The New Ulm Battery performing to
1812 overture by Tchaikovsky. BANG
A new use for the
picket pole, when
the windshield
134
WHERE WE’VE BEEN RIDING AND MAY SEE YOU AT
By request, I have rated the parks we frequent. My favorites will have a four-star rating. This rating is based off of my
DNR report as well as, condition and maintenance, miles of trails and extra activities available. The rating may not be
current due to a lack of follow up visits and does not include bug conditions. No rating indicates that the park is good,
but warrants no special attention or because one area of critique is in need of improvement. For current horse camping
and trail conditions, horse campgrounds and the staff ratings across America go to www.hillviewfarms.com and index:
Horse Campers Corner. The ONLY place to fine up-to-date information on Park, Trail and Bug conditions.
In Minnesota:
✰✰ Beaver Falls, Renville Co
Park, MN
Camden State Park, MN
✰ Cedar Rock Ranch, Delhi, MN
✰ Crow Hassen Park Reserve,
MN
✰ Foothills State forest, Backus,
MN Foothills horse camp
✰✰✰Forestville State Park, MN
✰✰✰Fort Ridgely State Park,
MN
Garvin Co. Park-Lyon Co. MN
Glacial Lakes State Park, Starbuck,
MN
✰✰Hay Creek State Park, MN
High Island Creek Park, Sibley Co.
park -Arlington, MN.
Hole in the Mt. Co Park, Lake
Benton, MN
Huntersville State Forest, MN
✰Huston, MN “ The Bunk
House”
Huston MN. Whispering Hills
Resident Girl Scout Camp
Isabella-Boundry Waters of
northern, MN
Jorden River Bottoms, MN
K-Bar Ranch, Franklin, MN
✰Lake Carlos, Alexandria, MN
✰Lake Elmo Park Reserve,
Lake Elmo MN
Lake Louise State Park, MN
Lake Maria State Park, MN
Lanesboro, MN Eagle BluffEnvironmental Learning
Center www.eagle-bluff.org
✰✰Maplewood State Park, MN
✰✰Maple Springs Camp Ground,
Preston, MN
Morton -Franklin Redwood River
Bottoms, MN
Murphy-Hannrehan Park Hennepin County Park, MN
North Redwood, MN
✰Outback Ranch, Houston MN
Outback Ranch, Pillager, MN
Pillager State Forest, MN
Pillsbury State Forest, MN
Reno Unit Dover Forest, MN
Rush River Park, Henderson, MN
Sand Dunes State Forest, MN
Sibley State Park, MN
Skalbekken –Renville Co. Park,
MN
Spirit Mt. Duluth, MN
✰Stony Brook - Mc Carthy
Beach State Park, MN
St. Croix, Hinkly MN
✰ St. Croix State Forest,
Tamarack -MN
Sunburg, MN
✰✰✰Upper Sioux Agency State
Park, Granite Falls MN
✰ Thistledew, Togo, MN
Wetbark Oak Ridge Unit Dorer
Forest, Houston, MN
✰✰✰Wild River State Park, MN
✰✰Zumbro Bottoms Unit Dorer
Forest, MN
Out of State/Country:
Meyer, AZ- Quarter Circle V Bar
Ranch
✰Buffalo National Park, AR
"The Rocks" Agua Dulse, CA
Pikes Peak, CO
✰✰Yellow River St. Park, IA,
Paint Creek Unit
✰✰✰Brushy Creek, IA
✰ Shimek St. Forest- Lick creek
Unit - Farmington, IA
✰Volga River State Park, IA
✰The Natural Gait, Harpers
Ferrey, IA
✰✰✰ Siloam Springs State Park,
Clayton, IL
✰✰✰ Shawnee national forest,
IL
Lexington, KY-Long View Stables
✰✰Kanopolis State Park, KS
“Rokin’ K Campground”
Phippsburg, ME
Greenfelder County Park, St.
Louis MO
✰✰✰ Lewis & Clark National
Forest - Bob Marshall &
Scapegoat Wilderness. MT
✰✰✰✰Little Missouri State Park,
North of Killdeer ND
✰✰✰✰Turkey Creek Ranch,
New Castle, NE
South Hampton, Long Island,
NY
✰✰ The Maah Daah Hey Trail
starting at: Sully Creek and Bar X,
Wannagan, Elkhorn, Magpie,
Bennett & CCC Campground., ND
✰✰✰ Sheyenne Oaks Horse Camp
and RV Park, ND
Malibar Farm, OH
✰✰✰✰ Ouachita National Forest Cedar lake, OK
✰✰Hitchcock Woods, Akin, SC
✰✰✰Hay Creek Ranch, Nemo, SD
✰✰1/2 (+)Newton Hills, Canton,
SD
✰✰Black Hills, T.C.Ranch , Custer,
SD
✰✰✰✰ Broken Arrow Horse
Camp, Custer, SD
✰ Sisseton-Prairie Sky, SD
Sisseton- Sica Hollow State park, SD
The Leiferman Cattle Ranch,
White, SD
✰✰✰Willow Creek, Custer, SD Black Elk National forest and
Harney Peak.
✰✰✰ ✰Lower French Creek,
Custer, SD
✰✰Wind Cave National Park,
SD
Eagle Butte to Timber Lake, SD
driving stock with the Holloway’s
✰✰✰Jamestown TN - East Fork
Stables
✰✰Gouldings, Monument Valley,
UT
Kedron Valley -VT
Lake Wissota State Park,
Chippewa Falls, WI
✰✰✰✰ Kickapoo Valley
Reserve WI Ontario WI, - End
of the Trail Equine Camp
✰✰ Prairie DuChien, Co.
Park, WI
Ukarydee Campground, Castle Rock
Park Necedah, WI
Shawano, WI
✰Solon Springs, WI -Bird
Sanctuary
✰Corloine the lions club annual
Colorama ride, WI
✰✰✰✰Wild Cat Mtn. Ontario
WI,
✰✰✰Wild Rock Horse Trails Clark County Park - WI
✰✰✰Governor Knolls/Trade River
Camp Ground, Grantsburg, WI
✰✰✰ Coasta Rica- cross
country to: Parque Prussia,
Tucanet, Tango Mar, Valley of
the Monkeys, Monteverde
Cloud Forrest and Tabacon.
“Rico Tours”
✰✰Valle de Bravo, MexicoFinca Enyhe-La Sierra
Cabalgatas -Equetours
www.mexicohorsevacation.com
Ontario, Canada -Muskoka
Region
Le Touquet, France
Granes, Puivert, Labau,
Ayguebonnes, Bouchard Southern France
Bermuda
Buenos Aries, Argentina The Jockey Club
✰✰✰ Peru - Northern part:
Cajmarca, Trujillo, Paijan,
Chiclayo, Pimento Beach.
135
Little Missouri, ND
Looken real good and acting smart, until you drop the reins!
Solana’s first all
alone ride
RV Kitty
wants out
The new crop of trail horses
Started with a tent
High Bridge
Covered bridge
Over the years I have received many questions about how to raise a foal. To respond to these questions
and others and to pass along my knowledge I have decided to write a book that will help you raise a great
companion. The book will be full of wonderful hints and constructive suggestions, delivered with humor
that will be illustrated with loads of pictures of my family and our horses. It will show you the techniques
and everyday equipment we use to prepare our horses and that you can use to prepare yours to be a great
riding companion and trusted friend. This book is scheduled for release ???
136
H ORSE
FOOD
Bread & crumbs
Chips, crackers, graham,
saltines, etc.
Hamburger& hot dog buns
Milk
Buttermilk
Sour cream and cream
Butter
Cheeses
Cream cheese
Eggs
Sugars: brown, powder,
white
Flour
Corn meal
Coffee/tea
Spices:(salt, pepper,
cocoa, bayleafs, cumin,
cinnamon,
marjoram,
basil, cinnamon, parsley,
lemonpepper, yeast, greek
seasoning, etc.)
Onion soup mix
Baking powder and soda
Corn starch
Catsup and BBQ sauce
Vanilla
Vinegar
Ranch dressing
Hot sauce
Soy sauce
Worstershire sauce
Mustard
Bacon, sausage, jerky
Lunch meat
Meat dinners
Hot-dogs
Potatoes, onions, garlic,
green pepper, corn, other
vegetables
Lemons, limes and other
fruit
Cereals hot and cold
Beverages: pop, beer,
booze
Juice: Orange, lemon, lime
Cookies
Candy
Marshmallows
Oil: corn, olive, butter
crisco
Jam
Peanut butter
Granola bars
Syrup
Soups; cream of
mushroom
and chicken
Tuna fish
Canned beef and meals
Tomato: paste, sauce,
canned.
Beans: kidney, pork &
beans
Olives, pickles
Mushrooms canned
Macaroni n cheese
Noodles
Nuts
Salsa
Rice
CAMPING PACK LIST
Mayonnaise
Popcorn
Water
Ice
Ice making machine
GALLEY
Dishes
Cups
Silver ware
Tumblers
Coffee pot
Pots and pans with lids
Utensils, flipper, tongs
etc
Water filter
Paper plates and cups
Napkins
Paper towels
Can opener
Bottle opener
Sponges and dish rag
Dish towels & table
cloth
Dish drainer
Liquid dish soap
Laundry soap
Window cleaner
Waxed paper and foil
Baggies large and small
Clock, watch
Table
Cooler
Broom and dust pan
Scissors
Rubber bands
Tape
Trash bags large &
small
Grill
Charcoal and starter
fluid
Cloths line and pins
Matches, long lighter
Pail
Candles
TOILETRIES
Soap: hand, shampoo,
laundry
Wash cloth
Towels: bath, beach,
hand
Shower mat
Tissue, toilet paper
Personal products
Hair brush
Tooth brush and paste
Combs
Lip balm
Lotion: for sun and
hand
Razor/blades
Nail clippers, file
Insect repellent
Deodorant
First aid kit
Sun glasses
Potty chemicals
Sewing kit
Clothes hangers
CLOTHING
Underwear
Sports bra
Jackets, coat, sweater
Long and short-sleeved
shirts
Shoes: riding boots,
sandals, tennis shoes
Sox
Gloves
Hat, cap
Bathing-suit
Rain gear
Handkerchiefs
Pajamas
Pants: riding, shorts
SLEEPING GEAR
Pillows
Sheets and pillow cases
Blankets
Sleeping bags
Te n t
Ground tarp
RELAXING
Playing cards
Games, puzzles
Books and magazines
Writing paper
Pens and pencils
Shade awning
Batteries, all sizes
Radio, C.D’s
Chairs
TV tables
Fishing rods
Tackle and bait
Baseball bat & glove
Frisbee
Water squirters
Football
Back pack
Hunting knife
Pocket knife
Compass
Swim fins and mask
Air pump
Kite and string
Binoculars
Bird book
Game licenses
Raft, floats
Camera and film
Maps; road and trail
Fire wood
Bike
TV., VCR and movies
Cell phone, G.P.S.
TOOLS
Screw driver
Adjustable wrench
Pliers
Saw
Hammer
Hatchet
Extension cords
Adapters
Porta potty
WD-40®, oil
Fire ring
Cooking tripod
Lantern and stand
Lantern fuel and
mantels
Folding shovel
Flashlights
Bulbs, all sizes
Fuses
Volt meter
Circuit tester
Jumper cables
Tire air gauge
Water can
Gas can
Holding tank hose
Flares, reflectors
Fresh water hose
Fire extinguishers
Rope
Jack
Out side carpet
Check: tires, tanks,
lugs, batteries,
runing lights, safetychains, breaks,
sway control bars,
coupler & hitch.
HORSES
Water
Hay & / or cubes
Grain, pelleted feed
Electrolytes
Straw, lime
Hay bags
Saddle bags
Saddles
Pads
Blankets
Fly spray
Ropes, leads,
hobbles
Halters
Bridles
Tandem pad
Buckets: water &
feed
Tack holder
Stands
Helmets
Riding gloves
Rubber boots
Tack box w/
supplies
Vet box w/ supplies
Washbucket &
wash supplies
Picket line &
equipment
Pitch fork
Manure / water cart
Fly nets horse &
rider
Farrier equipment
Horse boots
Whip & longe line
Trailer ties
Dog and cat food
EXTRAS HERE
Hill View Farms® LLC
41564 Co. Hwy 4
Morgan, MN 56266
866-723-5937
TIME PASSES
1) Married-no kids. Outdoor living. When it rained cooked inside a borrowed hog trailer.
2) Babies come: Bought a stock trailer and a used pick-up camper.
3) Toddlers: Bought a net-tent to contain them.
4) Kids grow–need room: Purchased a 28-foot, slightly used 1983 Pace Arrow.
5) Kids ride their own horses–hauling 6 head in two rigs: Bought a new steel WW trailer.
Fxed up the red stock trailer with storage on top and in nose with a blue paint job.
6) Too much weight for the stock trailer, traded-up to a 4-horse/4-Star made for horses.
7) The WW trailer rusted so traded-up for an Aluminum 2- horse Sooner, with hay and
saddle storage which was pulled by the saddle truck called the “Flex Flier”.
8) Kids grow – Kids made friends – a good life for kids.
9) Teenagers: Move into their own tent.
10) Girls gone. Retiring to luxury and longer riding stays.
A toast in memory of William Alfred Cook (Cathy’s
grandfather)
To all of you...
Amor, salud y pesetas y tiempo para gozarlos.
3
1
2
4
7
5
8
6
Love, health and prosperity
and time to enjoy their
benefits.
9
10
Current Specials:
$5.00

2nd half - Hill View Farms

Transcription

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