PASHMINA - Creative Machine Embroidery

Angelina
PASHMINA
by Cindy Losekamp
Embroider on a
pashmina using
Angelina film or
fibers for an elegant
and functional
accessory with a
touch of sparkle.
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CREAT IV E M A CH INE E M B R OI D E R Y cmemag.com
POSH PASHMINAS
A true pashmina is created from
wool derived from the undercoat
of the Chyangra goat, a domestic
breed raised primarily at high elevations in Central Asia, particularly
Mongolia. However, pashminas
are available in a wide range of
fibers from true cashmere to rayon
blends, with prices varying accordingly. Embellished pashminas make
a stunning statement and are wonderful gifts for family and friends.
Find pashminas in department
stores or even discount stores,
though the quality will vary
accordingly. Most pashminas
measure around 30˝x70˝, which
is a convenient size for many uses,
such as a shawl, wrap or scarf.
These beautiful accessories are the
perfect canvas for embroidery, but
require some special consideration
and care.
ABOUT ANGELINA
• Angelina is an iridescent
polyester-based fiber that
bonds only to itself under heat.
Angelina is available in film,
crimped fiber and straight-cut
fiber form (A). The fibers are
thin strips of film that are used
in a variety of ways, including
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A
combining fiber colors and textures by bonding them together.
Crimped fibers yield sparkle and
texture, while straight-cut fibers
produce a sheen. Since they’re
made from polyester, they wash
and dry beautifully and keep their
bright, shiny appearance for years.
• Angelina film isn’t the same as
Mylar, though its texture and
look are similar, making it a suitable substitute in Mylar-specific
designs. Angelina film was initially
developed for the space industry,
though it’s been embraced by the
sewing industry. Mylar is generally
used for gift wrap, helium balloons
and food wraps. Angelina film is
light, flexible and available in a
variety of shades, while Mylar is
stiffer and available only in white.
Straight-Cut
Crimped
Film
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• Use Angelina in lieu of fabric in any
appliqué design, though it’s best
used in designs that have stitching
over the appliqué. In large sections
without any stitching, the fibers
may come loose from the fabric.
Add a layer of very lightweight
fusible web to the Angelina before
embroidering to prevent this.
• Bond Angelina fibers together
by placing them between the
layers of a pressing sheet. Specific
pressing sheets are available for
this purpose, but you can also
use other thin pressing sheets.
Don’t use a sheet that’s too thick
or heavy, as the fibers will burn
before they bond.
• Lay enough Angelina fibers on
the pressing sheet to cover each
appliqué area without any gaps.
Ensure the fibers aren’t too thick
or the bonded fibers will be hard
and the needle won’t be able to
pierce them. If the fibers are too
light when bonded, simply add
more and bond another thin layer
together. Fold the pressing sheet
over the fibers.
• Set the iron heat setting between
silk and wool with no steam.
• Slide the iron across the sandwiched fibers using light pressure,
and then check by lifting the
sheet. Peel the fibers from the
pressing sheet if they stick. Turn
over the pressing sheet and press
from the other side.
• Once the fibers are bonded, add
a very thin layer of fusible web if
the bonded fibers are thin or if
using a design without stitching
over the appliqué. Standard fusible web may bleed through the
Angelina, so use featherweight
or extra light fusible web. Lay
a piece over one side of the
bonded Angelina and sandwich
between the pressing sheet.
Fuse, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
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CREATIV E M A CH INE E M B R OI D E R Y cmemag.com
Sparkling
Scarf
Embellish a soft
pashmina with shiny
Angelina for a stylish
accessory that sparkles
without losing its drape.
materials
Premade pashmina
(See “Sources.”)
2 yards of water-soluble
stabilizer (See “Sources.”)
Appliqué scissors
Crimped Angelina fibers
(See “Sources.”)
Pressing sheet
Lightweight fusible web
Temporary spray adhesive
Removable fabric marker
Size 80/12 topstitching needle
Embroidery thread
Appliqué embroidery design
(approximately 6½”x11½”)
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PREPARE
• Avoid designs with dense
fill areas, as the stabilizer is
completely removed after embroidery. Choose designs that are
light and airy or ones that have
been digitized especially with
additional support for the satin
stitches. Appliqué designs work
well, since they usually have fewer
stitches than the more common
filled designs.
• Use white, fabric-like water-soluble
stabilizer when embroidering
pashminas. Don’t use paperrelease adhesive water-soluble
stabilizers, as the pashmina weave
may pull and distort when removing from the adhesive.
• Don’t hoop the pashmina.
Instead, hoop two layers of
stabilizer and use temporary
spray adhesive to adhere the
pashmina to the stabilizer.
• Install a size 80/12 topstitching
needle into the machine. The long,
enlarged eye prevents the thread
from breaking.
• Thread the machine needle
and bobbin with matching embroidery thread.
• Bond the desired Angelina
fibers following the previous
instructions. Bond enough
fibers to fill all appliqué areas
of the design.
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B
EMBROIDER
• Print a design template and audition the design position on the
pashmina. Place smaller designs
along the pashmina or position
larger designs toward the pashmina ends.
• Hoop two layers of water-soluble
stabilizer, making sure they’re taut
in the hoop.
• Lightly spray the hooped stabilizer
with temporary spray adhesive.
• With right sides together, fold the
pashmina in half lengthwise with
the fold on the right. Measure
10˝ to 12˝ from the lower end;
pin-mark. Fold the pashmina
widthwise at the mark, aligning the
folds; remove the pin.
• Using a removable fabric marker,
draw the hoop lengthwise and
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CREAT IV E M A CH INE E M B R OI D E R Y C
widthwise centerlines onto
the stabilizer.
• Place the folded pashmina in the
upper-left quadrant of the hoop,
aligning the folded corner with
the hoop center; finger-press
gently (B).
• Unfold the pashmina, fingerpressing and smoothing the fabric
onto the stabilizer.
• Place the hoop onto the machine,
moving the excess pashmina to
the back. Roll up the excess pashmina along the sides and back; pin
the rolls.
• Place an additional piece of stabilizer over the embroidery area.
• Use the baste-in-the-hoop feature
to secure the layers (C). If this
feature is unavailable, pin the
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stabilizer to the lower layers
outside the embroidery field
before attaching the hoop onto
the machine.
• Embroider the appliqué
outline (D).
• Place one piece of bonded
Angelina fibers over each outlined area.
• Embroider the tacking stitches to
secure the Angelina (E).
• Remove the hoop from the
machine, but don’t remove the
fabric from the hoop. Trim the
Angelina close to the stitching
lines, and then replace the hoop
onto the machine, ensuring that
the excess pashmina isn’t caught
under the hoop.
• Embroider the satin stitches (F).
Embroider the remaining design.
• Remove the hoop from the
machine. Turn the hoop to
the wrong side, and then snip
the basting stitches every five
to six stitches. Flip over the
hoop and gently remove the
basting threads. Trim the excess
upper stabilizer B⁄c˝ from the
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stitching. Lift the pashmina and
pierce the lower stabilizer layers.
Trim away the stabilizer B⁄c˝ from
the stitching.
• Fill a bucket or sink with very
warm water and a small amount
of dishwashing liquid. Place
the pashmina in the water and
let soak for an hour or longer.
Swish the pashmina around to
work out the stabilizer, and
then drain the water. Refill the
sink with clear, warm water, and
then soak the pashmina another
three to four hours or overnight.
Work the pashmina around in
the water, and then remove.
Gently squeeze the pashmina
to remove as much water as
possible, and then roll in a towel.
Air-dry the pashmina. If needed,
press using the wool heat setting
with steam. §
Designs
Ginko biloba, grapes & leaves: Sew Artfully Yours, Tumbling Leaves and Flowers,
Sweet and Simple Angelina Film Designs;
sewingart.com
Sources
All About Blanks provided the pashminas:
allaboutblanks.com.
D
E
F
Floriani provided the water-soluble
stabilizer: rnkdistributing.com.
Shop Sew it All carries Angelina fibers
and film: shopsewitall.com.
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