The Timber Framer`s Panel ComPany

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The Timber Framer’s Panel Company
A Guide To Enclosing Your Timber Frame Home.
Your Best Choice for Enclosing
Timberframes • Steel Frames • SIP Buildings
• Panels are interior finish, insulation, and outside sheathing all in one.
Roofing
Asphalt, steel, cedar you name it.
• They are the fastest, easiest, and most
economical method of timber frame
enclosure.
Interior Finish
Drywall, wood, plaster,
• They provide the tightest, most
energy efficient enclosure
system available.
• They allow you to show
wallpaper, whatever you like.
Siding
off the entire depth of Wood, stone,
your timber
brick, stucco,
frame.
anything - it’s
up to you.
• They use fast growing young
timber, reduce construction
waste and reduce energy demands
by 40 to 60%.
Foundation
Concrete, ICF, even slab.
T able
of
C ontents
We encourage Contractors and Homeowners to use this book as a guide to designing for insulated panels.
Introduction To Foard Panel
Industry Leader . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Specialized Services. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Foard Panel Products
Panel Configurations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Application Materials. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Structural & Load Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Foard Panel Product Data Sheets. . . . . . . . . . . 5-16
R–value Explained. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Using Panels for Energy Star®. . . . . . . . . . 18
Installation Options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Tools of the Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Preparing Your Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Specialized Panel Details
Details Isometric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Foundation/Wire Chase Options . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Door/Window R.O. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Panel Connections. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Eave Overhang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Rake Overhang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Vented Roof. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Outdoor Deck. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Kitchen Cabinet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Wiring Details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31,32
Building Science Recommendations
Introduction and Additional Resources. . . . . . . 33
Vented Roofs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
About Siding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35,36
Foam Sealant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37,38
About Moisture Migration. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Window Flashing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39,40
Air Quality & Ventilation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Sizing Your Heating and Cooling System. . . . . 41
Pest Management . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Industry Leader
for
20 Years
Foard Panel has been manufacturing and installing panels since 1983. Over the years we have gained
the expertise to produce superior panels and to develop efficient construction. Our development team works hard
to make product improvements that increase the quality of panels for the entire industry.
Better components make better panels, better panels make better homes.
Product Innovations
Foard Panel has introduced a variety of innovative products to the industry including:
Split Skin Panels • Baseboard Nailers • XPS Insulated Panels • Headlok Panel Screws
Manufacturing Excellence
Our manufacturing process utilizes state of the art
technology to assure we produce only the strongest,
most energy efficient, materials for your home. Our
jigged vacuum bag presses, computer controlled
adhesive application, and custom engineered milling
machines ensure we produce flawless panels that are
easy to install. Our technicians are some of the most
experienced panel manufacturers in the industry and
they take great care in producing the highest quality
panel for every customer.
Industry Affiliations
Our staff stays actively involved with professional organizations. These affiliations allow us to stay informed about
cutting edge building practices and products.
We are members of the Timber Framers Guild of North America, and the Timber Framers Business
Council. We were founding members of the Structural Insulated Panel Association.
Quality Control
Our manufacturing plant receives quarterly unannounced inspections from a certified 3rd party quality control
company called RADCO. For more information about this process, visit
www.radcoinc.com. Our Panels also undergo structural testing at the University of Maine’s
Advanced Engineering Wood Composite Center.
1
S pecialized S ervices
Foard Panel offers a wide variety of specialized services for all levels of customers. Some of our customers
specify and design for their own materials. Other customers may ask us for help designing and specifying for
their project. We can pre–cut your panels to make installation easier for you, or we can come to your site
and install the panels for you. Mix and match our services to meet your needs.
Manufacturing to Your Order
If you already know what materials you need, just give a call with your lengths and quantities and we will price
it for you. Our quotes are always free and quick. When your quote turns into an order, expect top notch technical
support and on-time delivery.
Designing Your Enclosure
When you don’t know exactly what you need, our design staff can assist you in determining which of our products
will work best for your project. We can provide you with CAD plans of your building. These plans are used to
minimize panel waste and therefore reduce overall project costs. Fees for this service are priced on a project-toproject basis.
Precise Pre-Cuts
With adequate planning and accurate drawings, we can pre–cut your panels prior to delivery. Pre–cutting your panels
for your project increases the speed of installation and reduces job site waste. We offer two choices.
Our standard pre–cut option allows for some of the cutting to be done in our shop and some in the field. Panels
are cut to length, miters on eave wall panels are cut, ridge cuts and many routing details are included. Fees for this
service are bid per job. Our standard pre–cut is less expensive than a full pre–cut and sometimes can be the better
choice for the job.
Our full pre–cut option allows for all panels to be cut and routed in the shop. This even includes window and door
rough openings. Fees for this service are also bid per job. We find this service to be a greater advantage for projects
constructed in more challenging job sites such as ocean front or space restricted areas.
Installation Options
Foard Panel can provide you with a full installation or we can provide the technical assistance you might need to
install our panels yourself. (see page 19 for more installation options). Deliveries on Self-Unloading Trucks
With Foard Panel’s self unloading trucks you won’t need to worry about scheduling other equipment to coincide
with your delivery.
“Foard Panel’s standard pre-cut service saves us time in the field and cuts down on a lot
of excess waste & mess.”
—Mike Gilley, Timberframer
2
F oard P anel P roducts
panel configurations and application materials
Foard Panels are available with either an expanded or extruded polystyrene core. Choosing the core material as
well as the panel type, thickness and R–value depends on your specific design. Our expanded polystyrene (EPS)
foam core offers a lower cost per inch of thickness and in many projects is the best choice. Our extruded polystyrene
(XPS) foam core offers a higher R–value per inch of thickness which may allow for the use of a thinner panel and
creates a better vapor barrier.
When determining the thickness of panels, there are two factors to consider, R–value and load capacities. Thicker
panels have higher R–values. Higher R–values are better; however at some point the cost of more “R” does not
provide increased return on investment. Our project managers will work with your general contractor and timber
framer in order to select the most cost effective materials for your project. (for more information on load capacities
see page 4, for more information on R–value see page 17)
Application Materials
Foard Panel project managers calculate the quantities of application materials that are needed to complete your
project. Application materials distributed by Foard Panel are:
Foam Sealant: Foard Panel sells two types of foam 1) “handi” foam with disposable nozzles and 2) “gun foam”
with reusable dispensers.
Panel Fasteners: Foard Panel offers Headlock screws or galvanized rink shank nails for panel installation.
Plywood Splines: We use 5/8", 5–ply CDX plywood to make our splines. Splines are used at panel to panel
connections.
Blueboard: Foard Panel uses “blueboard” for all drywall applications. Unlike most construction, drywall is often
exposed to the elements during panel construction. Blueboard has a special paper surface that is designed to
handle a lot of water and holds up to weather better than other types of drywall. Blueboard can be skim–coated,
have a plaster veneer applied over it, or simply be painted.
Many of our jobs call for pre–applied blueboard on the walls. This means that the blueboard will be hung on
the frame independently of structural panels. The blueboard is applied horizontally while the panels are applied
vertically. This system is preferred by many builders because it keeps the drywall seams horizontal for easier
mudding and also keeps these seams from aligning with panel joints. The offset seams are stronger and less likely
to crack as frames dry to normal moisture content levels. Note: Blueboard should never be applied independent
of the panels on roofs.
Wood Decking: Foard Panel can supply the wood decking for your job. Please let us know if we can help you
with pricing and availability.
3
F oard P anel P roducts
panel configurations and application materials
Out-gassing
Foard Panel products do not “out-gas” or lose R-value over time. Our customers can choose between EPS (expanded
polystyrene) and XPS (extruded polystyrene). Our polystyrene foam cores, that give our panels their exceptional
insulation qualities, are stable, inert materials. EPS is blown with an agent that contains no CFC or HCFC ozone depleting gasses and is formaldehyde free. XPS,
which is blown with HCFC, contains no CFC or formaldehyde. Minute amounts of HCFC may linger in XPS foam
for a short period but are typically no longer present when processed at our facility.
OSB (oriented strand board) is an APA, or TECO, stamped, Exposure 1 rated material. OSB does emit minute
amounts of phenol formaldehyde. Tests performed for the APA – The Engineered Wood Association showed that
freshly manufactured board emitted less than 0.1 ppm (parts per million) and rapidly approached zero emissions as
the material aged. In fact, the levels were so low that it was difficult to measure them against the “background” levels
in the test chambers. 0.1 levels of formaldehyde is typical of outdoor air in urban areas. The EPA does not regulate
any OSB emissions because emissions from OSB are so low there is no human health risks associated.
Formaldehyde is naturally occurring at rather high levels in many foods such as apples and onions. Human blood
contains about 3 ppm.
Off-gassing problems associated with formaldehyde in wood products are limited to interior grade products like
particleboard in cabinetry and furniture. Interior grade wood products use urea formaldehyde in their processing,
not phenol formaldehyde, which is used for exposure 1 rated oriented strand board.
Plywood vs. OSB (Oriented Strand Board)
Panel manufacturers choose OSB over plywood for a variety of reasons. Better bonding and a wide variety of
available lengths are at the top of the list.
OSB is made of several cross-oriented layers of wood strands, which are glued together under heat and pressure. The outcome, a sheet of this material, performs like a single piece of wood. When we bond our insulation cores to
OSB we have only our own bond, which is actually stronger than the OSB, to be concerned with. Plywood, on the
other hand, is made of several sheets of veneer glued together. Plywood might have as many as six independent
“glue lines” within its composition. If you bond something to plywood you are only really bonding to one of these
layers of veneer. All of the bonds within the plywood are out of your control.
Another big reason we choose OSB is the variety of available lengths. While plywood is limited to 8’ lengths, OSB
is made in sheets up to 24’ long. Having the ability to produce panels in many different lengths provides flexibility
in design and speed in construction. Speed and flexibility combined produce great economic benefits.
The APA – The Engineered Wood Association rates Exposure 1 OSB the same as Exposure 1 plywood in terms of
both its weather resistance and its nail pull strength.
4
Nailbase Panel
5
Nailbase Panel
on page 4
6
Curtainwall Panel
7
Curtainwall Panel
on page 4
8
9
on page 4
10
Description
Drywall clad structural panels (DWC) are an energy
efficient alternative to conventional framing. They are
insulated panels used as walls, roof, bump outs, and
dormers in both residential and commercial buildings.
Drywall clad structural panels provide the exterior
sheathing, insulation, and interior base finish in one unit.
11
on page 4
12
Description
Wood clad structural panels (TGC) are an energy efficient
alternative to conventional framing and provide great flexibility
of interior finishes. They are used as non-load bearing insulated
panels for walls, roof, bumpouts, and dormers in both residential
and commercial buildings. Tongue & groove clad structural panels
provide the exterior sheathing, insulation, and interior finish in
one unit.
13
on page 4
14
15
on page 4
16
R– value E xplained
One of the more noteworthy characteristics of panels is how well they perform thermally. The tables below compare
Foard Panels with their most common competitor; stick construction with fiberglass (or any batt) insulation.
In order to appreciate these tables, however, the concepts of “center of cavity” and “whole wall” R-values need to
be understood. Center of cavity refers to the R-value of the insulation only. Whole wall, as the term implies, takes
into consideration the thermal properties of all the components of a finished wall system. Naturally, whole wall
R-values are lower than center of cavity R-values. Conventionally framed, fiberglass systems typically perform at only 65% of the stated center of cavity R-value. Once thermal bridging, convection within the bay and air infiltration are taken into account, an R-19 (center of
cavity) wall, for example, will perform at only R-13 (whole wall).
Here is the good news! Foard Panels
Building codes for R-value requirements are based on
center of cavity insulation values. Our experience has
perform at 96% of the stated center
been that building inspectors will allow the use of panels
of cavity R-value. This is because air
that have R-values lower than code. For example, if the
infiltration, thermal bridging and bay
code for roof insulation in your area is R-30, you will likely
convection do not occur with panel
find that your local inspector will allow the use of an R-23
construction. Because whole wall
panel; an R-23 panel will outperform an R-30 conventional
performance for these two methods of
system when a whole wall comparison is made.
insulating are so different, it has been
difficult for many people to make accurate comparisons and to choose appropriate panels for their projects. These
tables were designed to help with that process. R-Value Comparison Table
Foard Panels vs. Conventional w/ Fiberglass
Wall Thickness
4½"
6½"
8¼"
Center of cavity
Whole Wall
Center of cavity
Whole Wall
Center of cavity
Whole Wall
Whole wall Comparison Wall Thickness (nominal)
Foard Panel EPS vs. Conventional w/ Fiberglass
R-Value
14
22
28
Foard Panel
4½"
6½"
8¼"
Stick Wall
7"
11"
14"*
Fiberglass
EPS Panel
XPS Panel
R-11
R-15
R-20
R-8
R-19
R-14
R-23
R-19
R-30
R-13
R-24
R-22
R-30
R-29
R-38
R-16
R-29
R-37
Whole wall Comparison Wall Thickness (nominal)
Foard Panel XPS vs. Conventional w/ Fiberglass
R-Value
19
29
37
Foard Panel
4½"
6½"
8¼"
Stick Wall
9"
14"*
17"*
*Note: Rather than attempting to build a wall that is 14" or 17" thick, these walls would be “double framed” with
staggered 2x4 or 2x6 studs. While this wall would not actually need to be quite so thick, the additional materials
and labor involved would quickly make it less economical than panel construction.
17
F oard P anels S ave E nergy
use our panels to build a qualified ENERGY STAR ® home
Foard Panels are an easy way to have a comfortable,
energy efficient home. Take these steps to build
an ENERGY STAR qualified new home.
1). Start during the planning process by telling your builder you want your new home to be ENERGY STAR qualified. 2). Have the builder’s plans reviewed and, if necessary, revised by an independent Home Energy Rater to be sure the house, as designed, will meet the requirements. (There is sometimes a small fee for this review.)
3). Contact an energy rater in your area:
Vermont: Efficiency Vermont, 888–921–5990
New Hampshire & Maine: Horizon Residential Energy Services 603–415–3990
Eastern Mass & New York: Conservation Services Group 800–628–8413
Conneticut: Blake Cole 203-294-9677
Western Mass: Center for Ecological Technology, 800–238–1221
All other Areas: www.natresnet.org/directory/rater_directory.asp#Search
Use Foard Panels To Exceed State Energy Codes
Calculate the energy rating of your Foard Panel home by using REScheck. This FREE, easy to use program can be downloaded from the U.S. Dept of Energy Web page: www.energycodes.gov/rescheck/
A. Click on “envelope” button B. Select “Structural Insulated Panel” C. Insert Foard Panel rated R–value
Commitment to Green Building
Compared to other insulations types, Foard Panels are the most energy efficient way to enclose any residential or
commercial project. Our polystrene insulations produce “0” out gassing, and our oriented strand board (OSB) is
made from fast growing farmed trees that reduce the demand for old growth timber.
Foard Panels are used in projects that qualify for both Energy Star and L.E.E.D. Certification. We are
an Energy Star Partner and we are listed in the Greenspec directory for green building materials
(www.buildinggreen.com). We are a major sponsor of the Northeast HoMe Energy Rating System
Alliance and a participant in the annual Building better by Design conference hosted by Effiency
Vermont.
www.GreenSpec.com
18
I nstallation O ptions
Foard Panel Installation Services
Our experienced installation crews can be hired to enclose your structure.
Your Foard Panel project manager will coordinate your installation schedule.
What to expect from a Foard Panel installation:
• All wall and roof panels installed to Foard Panel specifications
• All window and door rough openings cut, routed, foamed and fitted with 2x blocking
• All blocking locations secured with nails or screws per Foard Panel specifications
• All spline connections secured with nails or screws per Foard Panel specifications
• All panel connections foamed with expanding spray foam sealant
• Exceptionally good housekeeping practices
• Crane supplied & operated by Foard Panel
Check out our
pre-cut options
on page2
Certified Subcontractors Program
When you are contracted for Foard Panel installation services, and our crews are not available,
we will choose one of our certified subcontractors to enclose your structure.
What to expect from a certified subcontractor installation:
• A Professional install crew trained by Foard Panel experts
• A project performed to meet all of Foard Panel’s high quality specifications and standards
• Exceptionally good housekeeping practices
Site Tech Program
Many times, the most cost effective way to install panels is to have a Foard Panel site tech train your own local, skilled labor so they can install panels themselves. Site techs are available for one or two day training
sessions; completion of job is the responsibility of your crew.
The responsibilities of a Foard Panel site tech Include:
• Reviewing panel plans and details for the job with your crew
• Training your crew on best practices and recommended panel installation techniques
• Being on your job for one or two days to accelerate your crew through the “learning curve”
• Answering questions and observing your crew in action
“I’ve done three projects with Foard Panel. In all situations I was impressed with the care
they took to do the job right. Foard Panel is doing something right to be able to retain the
same crew members year after year.”
—John Hann
19
T ools
of the
T rade
The right tools are essential when installing panels correctly and efficiently.
Foard Panel has the tools you need to get your job done right.
Linear Link Saw
The Linear Link is a modified, worm drive, Skil saw with a 14" chain saw bar. This
powerful electric saw cuts to a full depth of 13" which makes cutting through most panels,
even at 45 degree angles, possible in one pass. Makita 16" Circular Saw
This saw cuts to a full depth of 6¼" with a carbide blade. Many contractors use Linear
Links and Makita circular saws in tandem; setting the Makita up for 90 degree cuts and
leaving the Linear Link adjusted to a particular angle.
Having only one or both saws is dependant on how much work you plan to do with them. Electric Foam Scoops – For EPS Core Panels
Foam scoops are used to rout panel edges wherever 2x material needs to be
installed. The foam scoop heats an element that melts the core material as it
passes. Foam scoops are available in many sizes ranging from 3½" to 9¼" wide. They can be adjusted to cut any depth up to 4½". These tools are a lot less
messy, and less expensive, than mechanical routers but they also operate at a
much slower pace.
Mechanical Routers – For EPS & XPS Core Panels
Mechanical routers are custom-built body grinders with special cutting heads designed for full routs or spline and
spray foam channel routs. Most contractors who do multiple panel installations will opt for a mechanical router
over a foam scoop. Our routers are shipped with a full set of standard routing bits which includes set ups for 3½"
and 5½" cores. If you have unique routing configurations, please discuss your needs with your Project Manager.
Pageris Foam Gun
If you’re serious about getting the best possible seal when applying spray foam, consider stepping up to a Pageris
Foam Gun. The gun is compatible with Foard Panel Brand Spray Foam and can be used over and over again. Unlike
the disposable nozzles that come with “Straw” Foam, Guns regulate the ratio of propellant to product as the foam is
dispensed. A consistent ratio means greater yield per can as well as a more uniform seal.
Rental And Purchase Agreements
Tool
Weekly
Deposit/
Foard Panel accepts Visa and MasterCard for tool rental agreements. Rental
Purchase
The full purchase price of the tools being rented will be charged to Linear Link Saw
$75.00
$540.00
the card. When tools are returned, the remaining balance will be 16" Makita
N/A
$875.00
returned. Additional charges for tools returned damaged may apply. Foam Scoop
$15.00
$130.00
$75.00
$675.00
Ordinarily, tools can be shipped with the truck delivering the panels. Mechanical Router
N/A
$75.00
The costs for other shipping arrangements and return shipping are Pageris Foan Gun
the renter’s responsibility.
Rates and prices subject to change without notice
20
P reparing Y our S ite
Job Site Access is Essential
1. Prior to our arrival, plow and sand your
driveway when necessary.
2. Extremely muddy conditions may require
your excavator to be available.
3. Any trees or other obstacles impeding our
access to the timber frame must be removed
at your expense.
One of four Foard Panel delivery crane trucks.
“Foard Panel was awesome. Five guys who were good, fast and very friendly. Everything is
incredibly to spec. I can’t say enough great things.”
—Brad Lingham
Additional Customer Responsibilities
1. Have your project manager on site the day we arrive to go
over details.
2. Provide a trash site or dumpster.
3. Provide electrical power. Minimum of two, 20 amp breakers,
or minimum 5,000 watt generator with fuel. Please let us
know if you have or need a generator.
4. Job site must be back filled prior to our arrival.
5. Make all your decisions about rough openings and overhangs
before our crew arrives. 6. All 2x material for roof, window and door edges must be on
site when our crew arrives.
Photo by Carolyn Bates
Tough site? Foard Panels being helicoptered
to the top of Smugglers Notch Ski Area
21
7. Foam balls that protrude from drill & fill holes after sealing
are left on the building. Foard Panel does not remove foam
balls after installation.
S pecialized P anel D etails
Use this Isometric drawing to help visualize where details occur.
Nine pages of specialized details fllo this Isometric drawing.
4
5
3
3
2
3
1
ISOMETRIC
Details
Typical Building Section
by: Neal Herriot
03-05-05
22
Detail #
1
23
Foundation Detail
Wire Chase Options
by: Neal Herriot
03-05-05
To create a rough opening, the foam core is removed from the perimeter of the opening –
typically the rout is 1½" in depth and the full width of the core thickness. The routed space
is then filled with 2x material; sill, header and jacks. Expanding foam sealant is applied
behind the 2x’s.
The 2x’s are secured with either screws or nails, 6" o.c., finishing the rough opening.
The window or door unit is then installed conventionally.
Detail #
2
Door & Window
Rough Openings
by: Neal Herriot
03-05-05
24
Foard Panels are typically pre-routed to accept 5/8" x 3" plywood splines, as shown
above. The splines are slid into the channels and the skins from both panels are fastened
to it at 6" o.c., with screws or nails. A channel is also milled at the joint for expanding
foam sealant. (See “Building Science Information, Expanding Foam Sealant” near the
back of this guide). Other spline options are available for other design situations.
Where panels run by each other, as shown
in this outside corner detail, two things
happen. First, a ½" gap is intentionally left
between the panels for expanding foam
sealant. And second, the overlapping panel
is routed for 2x blocking to complete the
nailing surface for trim.
Detail #
3
25
Panel Connection
Panel Corner
by: Neal Herriot
03-05-05
Detail #
4
Roof Overhang
eave
by: Neal Herriot
03-05-05
26
Detail #
5
27
Roof Overhang
Rake
by: Neal Herriot
03-05-05
Detail #
6
Vented Roof Details
Built-Up Roof
by: Neal Herriot
03-05-05
28
Our recommendation for attaching an outdoor deck is to not attach it at all. The connection between a deck
and house when attached directly is a likely site for water damage in both panelized and conventionally
built homes.
The detail below incorporates an extra set of piers set nearer to the house. The support of these piers
allows the deck to be free standing and independent of the house itself. A 1½" space is left between the
house and rim joist of the deck. This detail not only helps to create a structurally superior deck, it also
ensures that the deck and the house behind it will last a long time.
Detail #
7
29
Outdoor Deck
by: Neal Herriot
04-15-06
In this example, a 2x4 stick framed wall is
installed between the subfloor and the underside
of the top plate. The wall her is constructed
“flat” against the panel; taking up only 2" of
additional floor plan space.
The stud framing creates additional room for
above-counter wiring as well as an excellent
backing for attaching cabinets.
When a kitchen sink and window are located
on an outside wall, an extra deep sill makes
more room for plants and other kitchen
paraphernalia.
Detail #
8
KItchen Cabinet
by: Neal Herriot
04-15-06
30
E
C
A
D
B
A
Detail #
9
31
Wiring Details
by: Neal Herriot
04-15-06
Wiring Solutions
Wiring panel homes is different than wiring conventional homes, though not any more difficult. Wiring in panels
is generally limited to two main elements, 1) perimeter outlets, and 2) switches and fixtures at exterior doors.
Electric Chase: The wire chase is where your wires originate from to feed perimeter outlets and switches.
The details on the opposite page are drawn with a deck chase. This example is just one of many ways to
accomplish chasing wires. There are three other methods detailed on page 23 in this guide.
Perimeter Outlets: To install and feed an outlet: 1) An opening the size of the box is cut through the inside skin
of the panel and the foam is scooped out to make room for the box. 2) A hole is drilled into the panel at floor
level, directly below the box opening. 3) A tunnel is drilled from the box opening to the lower hole. This tunnel
is drilled with a spade bit on a long, flexible extension. When foam falls out of the lower hole, you’re there. 4) Install the box and route the wires to the box from the chase.
Outdoor Fixture & Switch at Door: Wires for switches and lights near exterior doors originate from the same
chase used for perimeter outlets and are run behind the doors rough opening framing. Again, the box opening is
cut through the panel skin and the foam is scooped out. A tunnel is then drilled from the rough opening to the
box.
Ceiling Fixture: When an interior wall is not available to run wires to fixtures on ceilings, or suspended from
framing members, you may need to run wires on the outside of the frame prior to panel installation. Consult with
Foard Panel before running any of these types of wires. Depending on your specific panel layout there will be
good places and bad places to run these wires.
Additional Notes: Foard Panel always welcomes calls from your electrician to answer any questions they might
have.
When all wiring is complete, non-expanding spray foam (not the foam supplied by Foard Panel) should be applied
to fill any gaps around electrical boxes and tunnels in panels. This is to prevent air infiltration and moisture
migration from occurring at these locations.
“I’ve wired homes for over 20 Foard Panel customers. It’s never as hard as people think
it’s going to be.”
—Art Campbell,
Electrician
32
B uilding S cience R ecommendations
introduction and additional resources
Foard Panels create a super–tight building envelope which increases your home’s
energy efficiency. However, due to the high performance nature of our product, special
considerations need to be made to ensure comfort and safety and to prevent potential
moisture damage. All of these recommendations are based on
studies performed by building science professionals.
Building Science Techniques are used to :
• Improve Air Quality
• Improve Energy Efficiency
• Prevent Moisture Damage
Note: Overall building science recommendations will vary depending on different environmental and climate
conditions. Listed in this guide are building practices most often used in New England (not including ocean front
property or other extreme micro climates). Additional Resources:
US Green Building Council: www.usgbc.org
Building Science Corporation: www.buildingscience.com
American Plywood Association: www.apawood.org
Home Slicker: www.benjaminobdyke.com
Building Green: www.buildinggreen.com
Energy Savings Tax Programs: www.energytaxincentives.org
EPA Energy Star Program: www.energystar.gov
A Public–Private Partnership for Advancing Housing Technology: www.pathnet.org
National Institute for Business Sciences: www.nibs.org/nibsbod.html
Environmental Protection Agency: www.epa.gov
Indoor Air Quality: American Lug Association: www.lungusa.org
33
V ented R oofs
Any roofing material can be used over panels. Some of the more popular materials include asphalt shingles, standing
seam metal, corrugated metal, slate and even cedar shakes or shingles. Design, climate, aesthetics, and budget are the
primary factors in determining which material is ultimately selected. Once the material is chosen, proper installation
details must be researched and executed.
Venting a roof means that a space is created between the top of the panel and
the roofing material. This space is for air to flow through. Convection pulls
air from vents at the eaves to a vent at the ridge. A vented roof is referred
to as a “cold roof”; a non–vented roof is referred to as a “hot roof”.
Foard Panel Strongly
Recommends
that Roofs be Vented
The single greatest reason to want airflow between the panels and roofing is to help keep that area dry. Water can
be introduced from outside a house as well as from inside. Differences in air pressure on each side of the roofing
may cause water to be drawn to the backside. Wind driven rain, capillary action, ice damming and snowmelt can
also allow water to find its way beneath the roofing from the outside. Moisture migration through panel joints can
allow moisture - occurring naturally inside the house in gas form - to condense into water on the colder, outside face
of the panel beneath the roofing. Moisture migration happens when a positive pressure exists in the house because
of differences between indoor and outdoor temperature and humidity. A well–sealed panel installation coupled with
a properly designed mechanical air exchange system will lessen the likelihood of moisture migration occurring,
but cannot eliminate the risk entirely. No matter how water gains access, the best way to get it back out is to allow
airflow into this space. Otherwise, water trapped directly between the top of the panel and back of the roofing may
promote molding or even rot, not to mention limit the lifespan of the roofing material.
Venting a roof can be accomplished in many ways. Some methods work better for specific roofing
materials. Below is a list of roofing materials and suggested venting methods.
1. Asphalt Shingles: Built–up roof, see detail 6 on page 28 in this guide.
2. Standing Seam: Vertical strapping with horizontal strapping over it, or horizontal strapping with intermittent
staggered, breaks to allow airflow
3. Corrugated Metal: Creates its own venting, can be strapped also.
4. Slate: May be done the same as 1 or 2.
5. Cedar Shakes/Shingles: May be done the same as 2 or with cedar breather applied.
Foard Panel has also seen air flow introduced beneath Standing Seam as well as Cedar Shake and Cedar Shingles
by using Cedar Breather; a product created by Benjamin Obdyke. Cedar Breather is a plastic, three–dimensional
mesh, about a quarter of an inch thick. Cedar Breather keeps the roofing spaced away from the felt paper, helps to
equalize air pressure, and provides an air space that promotes drying better than when materials are applied directly
to the felt. Cedar Breather is not terribly expensive and is very easily installed.
Proper use and installation of roofing felt, strategic – but limited – placement of an impermeable membrane such as
Ice and Water Shield or Bituthene, and proper flashing are also very important details.
Note: An impermeable membrane should never be used over the entire roof surface.
34
A bout S iding
There are a great number of options available for siding today; however, no type of siding is
completely waterproof. Foard Panel recommends that a secondary drainage plane be specified
in your home’s construction plans. A secondary drainage plane is meant to protect
your home from damage caused by water that gets past your siding.
Secondary Drainage Plane
Water can get between your siding and exterior sheathing in many ways. Wind driven rain and capillary action can
cause water to run uphill, easily penetrating your siding. Furthermore, when siding is installed directly to the wall, with
no air space, a difference in air pressure on either side of the siding will cause water to be drawn to the backside.
Never apply siding directly to your panel wall. Always apply an appropriate
drainage plane between your exterior sheathing and siding.
There are many ways to create a secondary drainage plane. In this section we will outline three: a redundant barrier
system, a vented rain screen, and Home Slicker® (by Benjamin Obdyke). The type of siding selected, climate, the
building’s specific site conditions, and budget are the primary factors determining which method is ultimately selected. Once the method is chosen, proper installation details must be researched and executed.
Redundant Barrier System
Create a redundant barrier system by applying an appropriate house wrap (Foard Panel recommends felt paper) and
proper flashing between the siding and sheathing. This method works best for clapboard and other lapping, horizontal
siding, where water will be allowed to run down between the siding and felt.
Please note that this method is not effective for sidings that lie flat against the wall. Panel sidings such as T1-11,
board-and-batten or shingle siding, as examples, should be applied over a vented rain screen or Home Slicker® as
described below. Furthermore, high wind or excessively wet areas such as along the coast or homes exposed on a
hilltop should incorporate either a vented rain screen or Home Slicker® and not just a redundant barrier system.
Vented Rain Screen
Create a vented rain screen by adding vertical strapping after completing a redundant barrier system. A vented rain
screen’s airspace effectively equalizes air pressure on each side of the siding, preventing water from being drawn
to the backside. A vent at the top and bottom of the wall allows air to flow behind the siding keeping things dry. Of course, there are many details that are not fully described here; padding out window and door openings, corner
trim, and overhangs, as well as extending flashing back to the sheathing and behind the felt paper. While building
a vented rain screen is somewhat costly and labor intensive, it is clearly the ultimate in performance when it comes
to protecting your home from moisture damage. You can feel good about applying any type of siding over a vented
rain screen.
35
A bout S iding
Home Slicker®
Another method is to apply Home Slicker®; a product made by Benjamin Obdyke, after completing a redundant barrier system home slicker is a plastic, three-dimensional mesh, about a quarter of an inch thick. A special vent strip is
used at the top and bottom of this system to promote airflow. Home Slicker® keeps the siding spaced away from the
felt paper, which will equalize air pressure and provide an air space that will allow water to dry up better than with
a straight redundant barrier system. Any type of siding can be applied over Home Slicker®. Compared to a vented
rain screen, many contractors find Home Slicker® especially advantageous when applying vertical or shingle siding. That is because a vented rain screen requires strapping vertically (for air flow) and these sidings require horizontal
strapping, additionally, for nailing.
Sealed Face Method – Not Recommended
It should also be noted that another method for protecting homes from moisture damage, known as the sealed face
method, is ineffective and is definitely not recommended. The sealed face method involves using caulk at joints
and corners of siding connections as protection from water getting through. Caulks only last a short time and once
cracks or separations occur, caulk can actually help trap moisture better than prevent its entrance. Many experts on
this subject agree that caulk should not be used with any of the three methods described above.
Foard Panel Recommends Felt Paper as House Wrap
In certain situations water can penetrate your house wrap. Water on the wrong side of certain “modern” house
wraps will be trapped there. Only water in the form of a gas can pass through these house wraps from the backside. Trapped water can quickly lead to mold, mildew and even rot. Moisture migration (see page 38), undiscovered tears
in house wrap, mistakes made while flashing, damming, nail holes, and failed seam tapes can create opportunities
for water to get past house wrap. Surfactants, such as sugar and acid found in wood siding or soap from a pressure
washer, reduce the surface tension of water, which may allow it to penetrate house wraps. In our research, the
material that is least affected by these phenomena is plain felt paper. If water penetrates felt paper, the felt has the ability to absorb the moisture,
speeding up the drying out process. Therefore, 15# or 30# felt is Foard Panel’s
recommendation for the product to be used as a house wrap.
Back Prime Your Siding
Foard Panel recommends that wood and cement-based siding products are back-primed. These products left untreated
may absorb and store moisture, causing cupping of the siding or problems with holding paint on the exterior face. Back priming wood siding will keep the natural surfactants in the wood from assisting water in penetrating the
house wrap.
36
F oam S ealant
Proper sealing of your enclosure system is very important. Expanding foam is meant to eliminate air
infiltration and prevent moisture migration. Air infiltration refers to outside cold air seeping into your house.
Moisture migration refers to water in gas form escaping to the outside.
Foard Panel uses three methods for applying foam sealant: “Drill and Fill”, “Gapping” and “Foam-As-You-Go”. Each method is meant to achieve the best seal for a particular situation. What we, and most other panel installers
like about these methods is that the panels are put up “dry” with foaming done as a separate step. This makes the
process cleaner, quicker, and allows for undivided attention to be given to this important job. Below is a list of
eight key situations that require foam sealing and the appropriate method to use.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Where wall panels meet the deck Spline and butt joints on wall and roof panels
Panel to panel connections @ corners
At intersection of wall and roof, along eaves and rakes
At roof ridge, hips and valleys
Behind rough opening framing After window/door installation, between jamb and r.o. blocking*
At any penetrations, such as vent stacks**
drill and fill
drill and fill
gap
gap
gap or drill & fill
foam-as-you-go
gap
gap
*When foaming around installed windows/doors, use low expanding urethane foam – not the foam supplied by Foard
Panel. It is possible to “blow-out” the jambs with the triple expanding foam Foard uses.
** Standard chimney openings that require clearance should not be foamed.
Foam–as–You–Go
Foam-As-You-Go is used behind blocking at window and door openings and corner blocking. Apply foam to the
panel or the blocking before installing the blocking at the rough openings.
Gapping
Gapping allows you to seal the most critical joints in the house. In order to completely seal these joints, we
intentionally leave a gap between panels that is large enough to get a spray foam nozzle into. When filling a foam
gap, be sure to get the spray foam deep into the space so that you’re sealing on the warm side of the insulation. Fill
the gap entirely as you work your way toward the outside. See examples of gapping on pages 25 - 38.
37
F oam S ealant
Drill & Fill
Drill and fill is performed from the exterior of the house. All
interior splines must be fastened before foaming begins. At the
panel joint, drill holes approximately 10”o.c. for walls, 6”o.c.
for roof, to the depth of the spray foam channel and inject foam
using two to four second blasts. Push the nozzle as far into the
joint as you can, ideally until contacting the back of the interior
spline. Begin foaming there and slowly pull out, pausing at the
spray foam channel to allow foam to travel in the channel. Blast
duration varies depending on temperature and humidity and how
much pressure is left in the can. Enough foam must be injected
so that ping-pong sized balls of foam protrude from the drilled
holes after the foam has cured. The balls can be easily scraped
off after the foam has cured. Do not disturb the foam until it has
completely cured, generally 24 hours.
Start foaming from the bottom and work your way up. This will keep the uncured foam from falling on you while
you work. Fasten exterior splines as you go instead of going over the same area later. First timers should experiment
with scrap material to get a feel for the proper amount of foam needed. Cut a cross-section out of practice pieces
to evaluate the technique.
Any envelope penetrations should be sealed with an appropriate sealant
or gasket to prevent moisture migration at those locations.
A bout M oisture M igration
In super tight homes, indoor humidity, left unchecked, can build up to ultra high levels. A house develops a positive vapor pressure, particularly during the heating season, when indoor humidity is higher than outdoor humidity. The pressure seeks the path of least resistance in order to equalize. Vapor finds its way out through panel joints or
minor spaces around door and window openings or other penetrations. In doing so, it will condense into water upon
reaching the dew point; either near the cold side of the wall, but still within the wall, or just behind your building
paper. For obvious reasons, water in either of those places is not a good thing.
Moisture migration is referred to often throughout our building science section. There are four very important
things that you can do to help prevent this issue from ever becoming a problem in your home. 1) Be sure to properly
seal all panel connections, window and door openings and other penetrations. 2) Keep indoor humidity to less than
40% during the heating season. 3) Incorporate an appropriate air exchange system into your design. 4) Vent your
roof, and vent walls when appropriate.
38
W indow F lashing
Proper Flashing For Flanged Windows
Good builders recognize that proper flashing details are critical to keeping water from leaking in around window and
door openings and potentially causing expensive and frustrating damage. At Foard Panel, we are concerned with the
quality of your home even after your panels are purchased and installed. We understand that all siding, no matter how
well installed, will allow some water to get behind it. Therefore, we offer the following flashing instructions to stop
water at that point. When applying felt paper and flashing,
try to think like water; overlap paper and flashings so that
water will always have a way to run down without getting
behind any of your materials. See our notes in “Building
Science Information” About Siding, in this guide.
Figure One shows a rough opening behind properly
installed 15# felt paper. The dashed lines indicate where
the paper should be cut so that it can be wrapped into the
opening. The first cut is made across the top (head) and is
flush with the edge of the opening. The next cuts are done
diagonally from the lower corners to an intersecting point. A vertical cut from that point to the head is then made. And
finally two diagonal cuts are made above the head, six or
eight inches long. After these cuts are made, wrap the paper
on the sides into the rough opening, trim off excess, and
tape these flaps back to keep them out of your way.
Figure Two shows a piece of clapboard going in on the
sill. The clapboard should be installed with the thick
edge toward the inside. This “slope” will help any water
that might still get in around the opening to drain out. After the clapboard is installed, pull the lower paper
over it and tape it back like you did on the sides. Tape
the head flap out of the way, for later steps.
Figure Three shows 30lb felt, being used as flashing,
installed on the sill. The flashing should be cut about
a foot longer than the width of the rough opening so
that it can be wrapped up each side at least six inches. Staple the flashing as shown in figure three. Leave the
bottom loose. If you are using horizontal siding, the first
course, below the window, will be installed behind this
flap. This technique is known as “The Dyer Flap”.
Figure Four shows the window unit installed.
39
W indow F lashing
Figures Five and Six show the head flap let down
and then covered with a separate piece of 15# felt. It
is important to make sure that this extra application
of felt gets tucked up under the course above it and
extends all the way down to the top of the window unit,
to the lower edge of the head flashing. Temporarily
taping the seams of this paper would be a good idea
to keep it in place until the siding is applied. Be sure
to remove any tape from the bottom edge, however,
before the siding or trim is fastened over it.
Note: Some contractors prefer to use “butyl” based
flashings on the sill. Often these types of flashing
are also installed over the flange of the window along
the sides and across the top. Foard Panel does not
recommend these types of flashing because in the
event of moisture migration from inside the building,
water could become trapped behind it; leading to
mold, mildew and rot. If, for some reason, your job
does use these types of flashing be sure you do not
flash over the lower flange. Any water that might
occur behind your unit will at least have a chance to
“weep” out at the bottom.
40
A ir Q uality A nd V entilation
Foard Panel buildings are super tight and therefore require ventilation.
Adequate ventilation will bring in fresh air to replace fumes from cooking or cleaning. Ventilation also helps
control indoor humidity in order to prevent excessive condensation which can lead to serious problems such as
staining, mold and even rot. The Foard Panel warranty requires adequate air exchange
.35 to .5 ACH (air changes per hour) is recommended by experts including the American Lung
Association and ASHRAE (American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air–Conditioning Engineers)
Listed below are three methods of venting. Discuss these options with your HVAC contractor:
1. Exhaust– Only Ventilation: A continuous low speed exhaust fan generally located in a utility area, with passive
inlet vents in bedroom and living areas. Exhaust–only systems may create a slight negative pressure.
2. Blending Ventilation Systems: A continuous low speed fan draws fresh outdoor air and air from living areas into
a central plenum. The air is mixed, filtered and re–distributed throughout the home. Blending systems may create a
slight positive pressure. Blending systems alone do not contribute to controlling indoor humidity.
3. Heat Recovery Ventilation Systems (HRVs): Continuous fans exhaust stale air from bathroom and kitchen areas
and bring in fresh air, that is distributed to bedrooms and living areas, in equal amounts. Incoming air is warmed in
an exchanger using the heat from the outgoing air.
For any of the above systems: Only sealed combustion appliances with dedicated fresh air intakes can be used in
super tight homes. Additional ventilation, independent of your system, may be necessary in areas such as bathrooms
and kitchens.
Sizing Your Heating And Cooling Systems
Heating and cooling demands are drastically reduced in super tight super insulated buildings. Therefore, your heating and cooling system can be sized smaller than in conventionally built homes. Have your
system sized by a professional experienced in this area. Properly sized boilers, ducting, blowers, air conditioning
units, etc., will save you money.
There are many types of HVAC systems available. All have their
benefits and drawbacks. Often, it is a combination of systems
that work best. Taking the time to design a total system that best
meets your heating and cooling needs, as well as incorporating
air exchange, is a sound investment.
41
For your safety and for maximum
energy efficiency, always provide
an outdoor air supply to heating
sources such as furnaces, wood
stoves and fireplaces.
P est M anagement
Just as in conventional construction, panels are not immune to ants or termites.
Our Suggestions
1 ) Foam, caulk or screen possible entry points such as door frames, windows, and pipes.
2 ) Remove any house plants that attract ants.
3 ) Trim tree limbs so they do not touch or hang over your structure.
4 ) Check exhaust system filters, stove hoods and grill hoods for cleanliness.
5 ) Ensure good ventilation throughout your home, including storage areas.
6 ) Keep floors free of food particles.
7 ) Correct any moisture problems such as leaky roofs and blocked gutters.
8 ) Foundation insulation should not be any higher than the ground level.
9 ) F
oundation treatments or interior dustings can be administered by a professional.
Seek their advice before choosing chemical applications.
10 ) Store firewood away from your house.
11 ) D
o not leave garden hoses laying across the lawn when not in use; ants may follow the hose
back to your house; check outdoor faucets for leaks or drips.
When breaking ground for any new project carpenter ants will be displaced. These ants will be especially eager
for a new place to live. If you are building in an area prone to carpenter ants, we advise having the area treated by
pest control professionals prior to beginning construction. Thereafter, regular preventative maintenance is the best
approach.
If ants or other pests do get into your home they can still be dealt with successfully. Panels are not a food source for
pests. Therefore, baiting with poisoned food works to exterminate all insects in these nests. Once these creatures are
gone we suggest you continue with regular pest control maintenance.
42
Structural and Load Data Eps & Xps Cores
P
a
n
e
Allowable Axial Load Per Panel Height (lb/ft, No Structural Splines)
Overall Thickness
Core Thickness
8'
4½"
35/8"
2482.6
6½"
55/8"
2615.6
8¼"
73/8"
2713.2
16'
1507.3
2394.0
2518.1
4½"
35/8"
241.3
6½"
53/8"
241.3
8¼"
73/8"
241.3
Racking Shear (lb/ft)
Overall Thickness
Core Thickness
Load
Allowable Transverse Load (lb/ft2, Structural Panels, No Structural Splines)
Overall Thickness
Core Thickness
4½"
35/8"
4½"
35/8"
6½"
55/8"
6½"
55/8"
8¼"
73/8"
8¼"
73/8"
Deflection
L/240
L/360
L/240
L/360
L/240
L/360
4' span
69
51
71
61
74
65
6' span
61
47
64
59
68
61
8' span
10' span
12' span
14' span
55
45
39
28
40
31
26
19
59
48
42
33
54
40
31
25
61
49
45
35
58
44
37
28
16' span
19
10
26
18
30
23
Allowable Transverse Load (lb/ft2, Curtainwall Panels, No Structural Splines)
Overall Thickness
Core Thickness
4½"
35/8"
4½"
35/8"
6½"
55/8"
6½"
55/8"
8¼"
73/8"
8¼"
73/8"
Deflection
L/240
L/360
L/240
L/360
L/240
L/360
4' span
58
54
59
54
61
55
Allowable Header Load (lb/ft, Using Standard 2x Blocking for Rough Openings)
Header Depth
8"
12"
18"
24"
4' span
495
892
1228
1400
6’ span
8' span
315
198
588
436
805
601
908
639
All given loads are derived by dividing allowable tested loads by a safety factor of 3. All data are from actual test results using ASTM-72 guidelines.
43
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N otes
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44
This Guide To Enclosing Your Timber Frame
Please check the extensive Foard Panel web site at
www.foardpanel.com
Foard Panel Incorporated
P.O. Box 185 / 53 Stow Drive
West Chesterfield, NH 03466
Email: [email protected]
800-644-8885
© 2006 by Foard Panel, Incorporated.