Jet

A wide range for all needs
Top table
(UV) JET A
Cold & Ambient water
(UV) JET H
Cold, Hot & Ambient water
(UV) JET WG
Cold, Sparkling & Ambient water
(UV) JET EC WG
Electronic Control
Under-counter
JET IN A
JET IN H
JET IN WG
Cold & Ambient water
Cold, Hot & Ambient water
Cold, Sparkling & Ambient water
Major features
Cold water (3-10°C): 25 lt/h
Maximum quantity of cold water in 1 draw: 6 liters
Direct chill system with ice-bank technology
Compressor: 1/12 HP
Ventilated condenser
Power consumption: 350 watt (WG)
Gas CFC free: R134a
Net weight: from 24 Kg to 28 Kg for different models
Professional carbonating unit (WG)
Technical Data 1/3
Jet
Cabinet
More pieces with frame
Chassis material
Skin plate
Base material
Zinc plated metalsheet
Front cover
ABS (Acrylonitrile
Butadiene Styrene)
Optional on the external
cabinet
Cup dispenser
Taps
Protected dispensing area.
Solenoid valves +
pushbuttons + single tap
Hot water tap safety
button
Yes
Drip tray
Yes
Technical Data 2/3
Jet
Chilled water
capacity (8-12°C)
25 lt/h
(6 lt in a single draw)
Hot water capacity
(95°C)
8 lt/h
(0,70 lt in a single draw)
Chilling tecnology
Direct chill coil
with 2lt ice-bank
Chilling coil
capacity
Chilling coil
material
0,30 lt
Pipes
PE (PolyEthylene) and
PFTE teflon (H model)
Hot tank
Under pressure(max:16bar)
Not inspectable.
1.2lt capacity.
Stainless steel AISI 304
Hot tank material
Hot tank
resistor coil
Stainless steel AISI 316L
700W internal
Technical Data 3/3
Jet
Adjustable cold
thermostat
Yes
Adjustable hot
thermostat
Yes
Hot and cold
power-on button
Yes
Indicating LEDs
Yes
Compressor power
1/12 HP
Power supply
frequency
Standard 50 Hz. Dual
50/60 Hz upon request
Ice-bank
tank capacity
2 lt
Average ice
inside ice-bank
0,8 kg
Reference
parameters for
recalibrating
the thermostat
when needed
Appliance marking
Carbonating system
Cold water is pumped into the
carbonating unit, with a pressure
around 10 bar. An electronic device
controls the pump start and stop
based on the water level inside the
unit, by means of a sensor directly
immersed in the water inside the
carbonating unit.
The pumped water pressure makes
the water nebulize (spray effect)
while passing through a conenozzle fitted at the unit inlet.
CO2 enters the unit at a pressure
adjustable between 3 - 4 bar.
This is the best solution to mix CO2
with water.
Taps (Jet IN)
099004 Kit G612-J for Jet
(provided with 6 mt Ø6mm hose)
Weighth : 0,6 kg
Installation hole : Ø 35mm
Maximum base thickness : 20mm
This tap is suitable only for Jet In A
(ambient and cold water)
Taps (Jet IN)
099040 Kit G68-J stainless-steel for Jet
(provided with 6mt Ø6mm hoose)
Weighth : 2,3 kg
Installation hole : Ø 28mm
Maximum base thickness : 35mm
This tap is suitable for Jet In WG
(ambient, cold, carbonated water).
It can be supplied also for Jet In H
(ambient, cold, hot water).
Taps (Jet IN)
099006 Kit G662-J for Jet
(provided with 6mt Ø6mm hoose)
Weighth : 4,7 kg
Installation hole : Ø 34mm
Maximum base thickness : 100mm
This tap is suitable for Jet In A
(ambient and cold water) or
Jet In WG (cold and carbonated water).
Taps (Jet IN)
099007 Kit G663-J for Jet
(provided with 6mt Ø6mm hoose)
Weighth : 5,3 kg
Installation hole : Ø 34mm
Maximum base thickness : 100mm
This tap is suitable for Jet In WG
(ambient, cold, carbonated water).
Plastic drip trays (Jet IN)
Stainless steel drip trays (Jet IN)
090024 VR-I without drainage
099020 VR-I2 with drainage
JET WG Hydraulic Schematics
Jet IN WG Hydraulic Schematics
Jet H Hydraulic Schematics
Jet IN H Hydraulic Schematics
INSTALLATION & MAINTENANCE
Unit Positioning
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Lay the cooler off from heater or sunshine exposure
The cooler is designed for indoor use. Do not lay the unit either outdoor
or in high humidity environment
Lay the unit off from the wall, at least 6-7 cm clearance, to ensure
enough ventilation aroun the cooler
In undercounter installation it is required to fit a ventilating grill to the
wall, in order to allow a good heat disposal from the cooler
Connection to the mains supply (1)
•
•
•
•
Firstly check the water pressure from the mains: it must be between 1
and 3 bar
In case the water pressure exceeds 3 bar fit a water pressure regulator
In case water pressure is lower than 1 bar or supplied flow rate is lower
than 2 lt/min, it might be required to install a water storage with a pump
to supply enough water to the cooler. This is very important for coolers
with carbonating unit (WG)
With a 3 bar water pressure from the mains and a 3.5bar Co2 pressure
(WG model), the cooler will dispense:
• 1 lt of ambient water in 40 sec.
• 1 lt of cold water in 40 sec.
• 1 lt of carbonated water in 35 sec.
Connection to the mains supply (2)
Installation kit includes:
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•
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n.1 Tee 3/8 MMF brass fitting
n.1 Ball valve 3/8 FF
n.1 JG 3/8M straight terminal for Ø8mm tube
n.1 JG 1/4M straight terminal for Ø8mm tube
n.1 JG elbow for Ø8mm tube
2mt PA Ø8mm tube (+ 2mt PA Ø6mm tube only for WG)
•
•
Al
Ingresso
refrigeratore
Acqua
• To connect any threaded fittings, we recommend to use liquid teflon, in
order to avoid any solid particles to stop inside any valve and cause failures.
G68 tap: installation
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•
•
•
The G68 kit includes speed fittings JG and 6 m of hose PA 6/8
To fix the tap on the table make a hole of Ø28 mm. The maximum table
thickness allowed is 35 mm
Use the nut to fix the tap to the table
Connect the tap to the cooler by means of
the hoses delivered with it, following the
G68 tap
labels attached to each hose
JG fittings
G662 / 663 tap: installation
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•
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The G662 / 663 kit includes speed fittings JG and 4 m of hose PA 6/8
T fix the tap on the table make a hole of Ø34 mm. The maximum table
thickness allowed is 100 mm
Use the nut to fix the tap to the table
Connect the tap to the cooler by means
of the delivered hoses, following
the labels attached to each hose
G612 tap: installation
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•
•
•
The G612 kit includes speed fittings JG and 4 m of hose PA 6/8
To fix the tap on the table make two holes of Ø14 mm and 20 mm
distance between centres. The maximum table thickness allowed is 50
mm
Use the nuts to fix the tap to the table
Connect the tap to the cooler by means of
the delivered hoses, following
labels attached to each hose
Fill the ice-tank
To fill the ice-tank use the 8 mm hose connected
to the mains supply; connect it to the “to fill the tank”
inlet (see yellow arrow in the picture).
The vertical hose in the rear panel allows to control the
water level inside the ice-tank.
The right level is pointed out on the rear panel
(see green arrow in the picture).
When the ice-tank is full with water disconnect
the hose and use it to connect the cooler to the
mains supply (water inlet in the rear of the cooler).
N.B. In case, to empty the ice-tank use the vertical
hose in the rear of the cooler: pull it off the brackets
and lay it downwards
Power connection
An electric cord with a Schuko connector is provided to connect the cooler
to the power supply.
Make sure the socket is provided with earth connection and designed to
supply the needed power and the right voltage (see technical cards).
Make sure a “omnipolar” switch with minimum 3 mm clearance between
leads and appropriate fuse are fitted to the line.
NEW FEATURE: since April 2006, the electric cord
connector to the cooler inlet has a right-angle-insertion
shape. With the previous "straight-insertion" connector,
if the watercooler is positioned very close to the wall,
the connector could become pushed tightly into the
inlet, so that the socket could be stressed and exposed
to the risk of short-circuits or “electrical arching”.
Start up
Warning: if the cooler has been laid on one side (not vertically) keep it in the
appropriate position (vertically) for 8 hours at least before run it
•
•
•
•
•
•
The thermostat must be set up to maximum (7) to make the cooler run
properly. It can also be used as switch and therefore check it is not OFF
Open the water from the mains and check for leaks
Ensure the heater is switched off!
Turn the cooler on
Push all dispensing buttons to draw water and evacuate any air from the
circuit
Ensure the hot water tank is full with water before turning the heater on
Start with carbonated water (WG)
The CO2 cylinder is to be placed out of the cooler and in vertical position
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Connect the CO2 pressure regulator to the “IN CO2” inlet in the rear of
the cooler, by means of the delivered hose (Ø6 mm)
To fit the CO2 cylinder to the pressure regulator just screw it. In case
you need to cut the CO2 off unscrew the CO2 cylinder from the
pressure regulator
Check the water pressure regulator is set between 3 and 4 bar. Higher
CO2 pressure more CO2 in the water. However do not exceed 4 bar.
To set the CO2 pressure turns the screw on the pressure regulator
Start drawing carbonated water till a good flow of carbonated water
comes out
To evaluate the result of any pressure change you must draw a few
liters of carbonated water
The disposable CO2 cylinder can last about 120 liters of water
Tips for drawing carbonated water (1)
WARNING! Follow local regulations concerning storage and transport of
CO2 cylinder
In order to save the water pump it is necessary to guarantee a continuous
water supply to the cooler.
In case of water lack from the mains, a safety device would stop the pump
when this runs continuously for 4 minutes and the red light “no water” turns
on. To reset the control board just switch the cooler off and ensure water is
supplied by the mains before switching the cooler on again.
A good result in carbonating the water also depends on the water
temperature. Therefore it is recommended to allow the cooler to chill the
water before evaluating the carbonated water taste
Tips for drawing carbonated water (2)
In about 40 minutes it is possible to draw very cold water, still and sparkling.
At installation or while replacing the CO2 cylinder or in case of water lack
from the mains some air can enter the carbonating unit. This may cause
problems to carbonate the water and therefore air must be drained.
To this aim proceed as follow:
•Unscrew the CO2 cylinder from the pressure regulator (disposable cylinder)
•Take the cooler’s cover off
•Pull the ring on the CO2 fittings (see picture)
•Connect the CO2 cylinder
•Draw 2 liters of carbonated water, at least
•Assemble the cooler’s cover
Sanitation (1)
•
WARNING! The product used may be harmful as they may contain alkaline and
corrosive components! It is recommended the use of glooves and protective
glasses while doing this operation
•
This operation must be done by qualified operator
•
To the aim of a good result, observe the reaction time and percentage of the
product used; also ensure the cooler is well rinsed at the end of the process
•
EPDWA recommends sanitation at first installation and:
- every 6 months in standard environments;
- every 3 months in critical environments (as such hospitals);
- any part in touch with water has been replaced (maintenance, filter change);
- anytime there is a reasonable suspect of contamination;
- anytime installation is repeated after an inoperative period of one/more weeks
Sanitation (2)
WARNING!
In case a filter system is fitted to the cooler, this must be excluded.
Preparation of the sanitising solution:
• Add 5% of “hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) 130 volumes” to 5 lt of water,
stored in a bucket
•
Connect an external pump to the cooler water inlet, to run the solution
through the cooler internal circuit.
We suggest to use a transfer pump self-priming (capable to
idle), with a capacity of at least 50 liters / hour.
For example, in our lab, we use the following product
(available in the Italian market): single-phase 370W 0.5HP
electro-pump code BE-M20, manufacturer ROVER POMPE
(Padova, Italy, tel. +39 049 5855372).
As an alternative, you could use the Aquatech 220V
booster-pump we use on our Avant, Rio, Connect WG
coolers, available as a spare part in our catalog (Cosmetal
p/n 1761517008).
Sanitation (3)
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Run the pump and simultaneously push the dispensing buttons till all
the solution pass throughout the cooler (in one go).
•
Stop either the pump and dispensing water.
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Keep the sanitising solution reacting for 20 minutes at least.
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Connect the cooler to the mains supply.
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Rinse the cooler using at least 15 liters of water, before the next use.
Sanitation (4)
Suggested products:
SANITATION
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (H2O2) 130 VOL.
(Es.OXISAN – Cosmetal p/n 1501120 – 5 lt tank
or OXONIA by HENKEL-ECOLAB)
DESCALING
(FOR MODELS H)
PE 4 SPEZIAL A by HENKEL-ECOLAB
or CRYSTALS OF CITRYC ACID
These products do not leave any taste and can be easily flushed.
Anyway, as a general suggestion to remove any bad taste from the cooler,
flush it with a solution of water with sodium bicarbonate (“baking soda”).
Jet TROUBLESHOOTING
Refrigerating unit (1)
THE COMPRESSOR DOESN’T START
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Check the right voltage is supplied and there is no failure with the
power cable
Check the thermostat is switched ON and properly set (5-6 at least)
Check the thermostat is not faulty (you may use a ohm-meter to verify
the ohm resistance between the two thermostat’s leads: if it’s zero it is
faulty)
Check the compressor’s capacitor is not faulty
Check the OVER-LOAD (klixon) protection on the compressor is not
faulty
Check the starting-relay on the compressor is not faulty
Check the compressor is not faulty
Refrigerating unit (2)
THE COMPRESSOR RUNS FOR A LONG TIME - WATER COMES COLD
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•
Not enough ventilation on the cooler; increase clearance around the
unit or enlarge ventilating grill in case of undercounter installation
The condenser may be dirty. Clean it by means of a Hoover
The room temperature exceeds 32° C and therefore the compressor
runs continuously to keep the water freezing inside the ice-tank
THE COMPRESSOR RUNS CONTINUOUSLY - BUT IT DOESN’T CHILL
• Check for refrigerating gas leakage. In case of a gas leak, the brass
pipe from the condenser to the coil stays at room temperature;
otherwise, in properly working condition it becomes warm (50 °C)
• The compressor is faulty and needs to be replaced
Refrigerating unit (3)
THE COMPRESSOR RUNS FOR SHORT INTERVALS
AND DOESN’T CHILL THE WATER
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•
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There might be an obstruction in the refrigerating gas pipeline and the
gas doesn’t flow properly.
The room temperature exceeds 45°C and the compressor’s thermal
protection (Klixon) cut the compressor off; check for good ventilation on
the cooler.
The motor-fan is broken, so the condenser doesn’t sink the heat, the
compressor is over-heating and enters its thermal protection mode;
replace the faulty motor-fan.
Cold Water (1)
WATER IS CHILLED BUT NOT IN ENOUGH QUANTITY
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•
Make sure the cold water thermostat is set up at maximum (7)
Probably there is not enough ice forming inside the ice-bank because the
thermostat is under-calibrated. When the compressor is stopped (best chilling),
quantify the ice by difference (drain out the water from the ice-bank by means of
the vertical hoose, and quantify the volume of water), considering the tank
capacity of 2 lt. Average quantity of ice inside should be at least 700 g in
summertime, up to 1,1 kg in winter. Then re-calibrate the thermostat by adjusting
the calibrating screw, with micro-rotations (45-90°) counter-clockwise
Cold Water (2)
WATER IS EXCESSIVELY CHILLED (EVEN FROZEN)
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•
Make sure the cold water thermostat is not set up at maximum (7)
Probably there is too much ice forming inside the ice-bank because the
thermostat is over-calibrated. When the compressor is stopped (best chilling),
quantify the ice by difference (drain out the water from the ice-bank by means of
the vertical hoose, and quantify the volume of water), considering the tank
capacity of 2 lt. Average quantity of ice inside should be at least 700 g in
summertime, up to 1,1 kg in winter. Then re-calibrate the thermostat by adjusting
the calibrating screw, with micro-rotations (45-90°) clockwise.
Hot Water
WATER IS NOT HOT
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Check the hot water thermostat is set up to
maximum and its electrical power switch it’s on.
•
If at the installation the hot tank has not been
properly filled with water before switching-on the
hot thermostat (as indicated in the installation
manual), probably because of internal overheating the safety cut-out switch (“Therm-Odisc") has activated. To verify this, check if the
small gray push-button on top of the hot tank is
open (all way up): if so, press it down and follow
again the installation procedure.
Vibration
NOISE & VIBRATION
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Check the unit lays levelled.
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If any refrigerating pipe comes in touch with other parts inside the
cooler, it may cause noise because the piping vibrates while the
refrigerating gas flows through. Check the cooler inside.
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The triple solenoid valve bracket is vibrating; fix it better.
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The motor fan is touching the heatsink/condenser; separate it.
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If the agitator pump placed inside the ice-tank is not fully immersed in
water it becomes noisy; check the right level of water inside the icetank by means of the vertical hose in the rear of the cooler
Chilling unit
COLD WATER DOESN’T FLOW OR SMALL FLOW COMES OUT
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Check for any dirt in the small filter fitted into the bulkhead connector
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Check for water filter system, it may be exhausted. In case replace it
Check for water pressure from the mains; if too low it might require to
install a water surge tank
The thermostat is set too high or is over-calibrated, so water is partially
freezing up along the coil (ice-lumps forming inside); leave the cooler
switched on for a while, with the thermostat switched off, to make the
ice melt. Then reset the thermostat at a lower position or re-calibrate it
(see COLD WATER troubleshooting).
•
Carbonating system (1)
SPARKLING WATER IS NOT WELL CARBONATED
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Check for CO2 pressure, must be set between 3 – 4 bars
The CO2 cylinder is empty and therefore there is not enough pressure
Water is not cold enough; check for thermostat set up (up to 6 at least)
Air inside the carbonating unit; it may require to drain air from the
carbonating unit. Follow step by step the above mentioned procedure
• If a one-time-use CO2 bottle (B-UG) is being
used, check the sealing o-ring inside the
pressure reducer inlet, to make sure it doesn’t
show any abnormal expansion such that the
gas breakthrough hole is being clogged. In this
case, replace the o-ring with a new one.
OK
KO
Carbonating system (2)
ONLY CO2 COMES OUT FROM THE TAP
•
The pump runs continuously and the red light “no water” turns on after 4
minutes (switch the cooler off to reset the safety alarm) :
1) Check for low water pressure from the mains or a clogged filter.
2) Check for pump jamming (internal scaling) and in case replace (descale) the
pump.
3) There may be something obstructing the nozzle inside the water inlet on the
carbonator. Remove the water inlet elbow fitting and clean the carbonator inlet.
4) The water could be frozen up inside the direct-chill coil. Check thermostat
position and calibration (see COLD WATER troubleshooting).
•
The motor pump doesn’ start at all. The pump’s control board (Gicar) failed and
needs replacement. To check this, just by-pass the level control (by
disconnecting the red wire quick connector from the carbonator): if the pump
starts, the electronic board is ok; if not, the motor pump or most likely the
electronic board is defective. To determine it, apply 220V directly to the motor.
Carbonating system (3)
THE STILL WATER COMES A LITTLE CARBONATED
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•
Check for no-return valve inside the water inlet fitting in the carbonating
unit. Any dirt caught inside that valve can cause CO2 flow back towards
the mains supply and therefore CO2 may come out with still water
To dismount the no-return valve, cut the water off, disconnect the CO2
cylinder and pull the drain valve on top of the carbonating unit to take all
gas off
Carbonating system (3)
THE STILL WATER COMES A LITTLE CARBONATED
• Check the double no-return valve inside the water inlet “L” fitting in the
carbonating unit. Any dirt caught inside that valve can cause Co2 flow back
towards the mains supply and therefore Co2 may come out with still water.
• To dismount the no-return valve, cut the water off, disconnect the CO2 cylinder
and pull the drain valve on top of the carbonating unit to take all gas off.
WATER IS ENTERING THE Co2 CYLINDER
• The double no-return valve inside the Co2 inlet “Tee”
fitting in the carbonating unit (connected to the
cylinder) is dirty causing the water flowing back
towards the cylinder. You can notice it when you
disconnect the cylinder and you get water from the Co2
tube. You need to clean the double no-return valve.
Carbonating system (4)
THE CARBONATED WATER OUT-FLOW IS NOT REGULAR
• If despite a good water pressure from the mains (around 3
bars) and a correct CO2 pressure setting (from 3 to 4 bars)
the carbonated water out-flow is not regular, but it tends to
reduce while drawing, then the CO2 pressure reducer
could be defective (instable). To check this, just look at the
pressure gauge (manometer) while drawing carbonated
water: if the indicator falls rapidly to 0 bars, then returns to
its original setting, then the pressure reducer is faulty and
must be replaced.
NOTHING COMES OUT FROM THE TAP (NEITHER WATER, NOR CO2)
• Water could be partially frozen up inside the carbonator (ice-blocks forming on
the bottom). Check thermostat position and calibration (see COLD WATER
troubleshooting).
Leakage
DRIPPING FROM THE SPOUT
•
Dripping may be caused by any dirt caught inside the solenoid valve,
causing the membrane not to shut completely. You need to
disassemble the valve and clean it inside.
These
two holes
must be
open !
UV lamp replacement (1)
The UV lamp has to be replaced after 6000 hours.
This operation must be carried out by qualified personnel.
Use of gloves is required to perform this operation; do not
leave fingerprints on the lamp because it may reduce its
efficiency
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•
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Unplug the power cable
Take the cooler’s cover off
Remove the UV box by unscrewing the
two screws showed in the picture
UV lamp replacement (2)
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•
Take the box cover off
Replace the lamp
•
Follow the above steps backwards.
WARNING! The UV-rays may be harmful to eyes and hands