aveda aromaology I essence of aveda workbook new 2013

Transcription

Aveda Aromaology I:
Essence of Aveda
Workbook
Aveda Mission
OUR MISSION AT AVEDA IS TO CARE FOR THE WORLD WE
LIVE IN, FROM THE PRODUCTS WE MAKE TO THE WAYS IN
WHICH WE GIVE BACK TO SOCIETY. AT AVEDA, WE STRIVE
TO SET AN EXAMPLE FOR ENVIRONMENTAL LEADERSHIP
AND RESPONSIBILITY, NOT JUST IN THE WORLD OF BEAUTY,
BUT AROUND THE WORLD.
Aveda Vision
Connecting beauty, environment and well-being.
Aveda Beliefs
1. We believe in treating ourselves, each other and the planet with care and respect.
2. We believe social responsibility is our responsibility.
3. We believe ecological and profit goals are mutually achievable.
4. We believe our authenticity and experience are our points of difference.
5. We believe in inspiring and educating people to integrate wellness and beauty
in their lives.
6. We believe in the power of oneness, from our global image to a focused network.
7. We believe learning never ends.
8. We believe in encouraging innovation and empowered decision-making.
9. We believe our actions, products and services should always embody excellence.
10. We believe personal and organizational balance is the key to sustainable success.
11. We believe true leadership is delivered with passion and by example.
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table of contents
Introduction:
Class objectives
Aromatherapy vs Aromaology
Chapter 1: What is an essential oil?
Definition
What it is
From where it comes
How we obtain it
Chapter 2: How do essential oils work?
Sense of smell
Psychological reactions
Physiological reactions
Topical application
Chapter 3: Aveda functional aroma blends
What is a functional aroma?
Creating Functional aroma blends
The Aveda Team
Aveda functional aroma blends
Anti - acne
Elemental nature
Anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant
Chakra
Chapter 4: Aveda Singular Notes
General Information
Professional Blending
Individual Essences
©aveda corp | all rights reserved | aveda education | aveda aromaology I : essence of aveda workbook | date revised: 6-2013
i Welcome
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Workbook:
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Welcome
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Class Objectives:
By the end of this course, participants will be able to:
• Define Aveda functional aroma
• Explain the functional aroma benefits of Aveda products
• Integrate aromaology information into conversations with guests to drive sales
• Increase retail by using the aroma therapeutic knowledge of Aveda Pure-fume,™
hair care, skin care, and body care products
Introduction
When you see the images on the screen, what comes to mind?
Aveda Aromaology I is about integrating the art of purefumery with the functionality
of essential oils
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introduction
Aveda Aromaology I:
Based on your current understanding, write down answers to the following questions:
What is aromatherapy?
What is aromaology?
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introduction
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• Aromaology and Aromatherapy are essentially the same thing
• The term Aromatherapy was coined by a French chemist named Rene Maurice Gattefosse in the 1930’s to refer to the therapeutic use of essentials oils from
plants and flowers
• He published a book called Aromathérapie: Les Huiles essentielles hormones végétales which discussed the use of essential oils
• Often times, the term “Aromatherapy” is used not to refer to essential oils but to any type of aroma, whether plant derived or synthetic
• Aromaology is a trademarked word that was created to emphasize that Aveda uses
only plant based aromas and essential oils
Aromaology is
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1 What is an
essential oil?
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What is an essential oil?
Using the 19 following words and letters, create a sentence that defines an essential oil.
Focus on 3 aspects: What it is, from where it comes, and how we obtain it.
distillation, compound, part, or, derived, volatile, a, a, a, through, of, of, aromatic,
expression, any, organic, process, plant, from
What it is :
(5 words)
____ ________ _________ __________ _________
From where it comes: _________ _________ _____ ________ ____ _____ _______
(7 words)
How we obtain it:
(7 words)
_______ ____ _________ ___ ___________ ___ _________
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what it is: a volatile aromatic organic compound.
• Volatile – The molecules of an essential oil float in the air.
• Aromatic – All essential oils have an aroma.
• Organic – Essential oil components are carbon based. The chemical components of essential oils are mostly monoterpenes with a backbone of 10 carbon atoms or sesquiterpenes with a backbone of 15 carbon atoms.
• Compound – Essential oils are a combination of more than one chemicals and
often have hundreds of constituents. The chemicals are plant based as opposed to petroleum based, and the complexity of essential oils is what gives them their power.
A gas chromatograph measures the components
of an essential oil. Is this image, the high peaks
represent the dominant components of an
essential and can easily be recreated in a lab.
Synthetic copies of essential oils often use 3 or
4 of these dominant chemicals, but the actual oil
contains all of these small peaks. This complexity
is why essential oils are effective. Even though
a chemist can recreate a version of an essential,
they cannot match the superiority of the aroma
or therapeutic properties of the actual oil.
from where it comes: derived from any part of a plant
Individual essentials oils can come from any part of a plant.
However, each oil always comes from that part of the plant. Rose oil comes
from the flower but you cannot get oil from the leaves.
Flower
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The bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium) yields 3 essential oils:
Fruit:

Flower:

Leaves:

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how we obtain it: through a process of expression or distillation.
Expression:
The pressing of the plant material to extract the essential oil. This process uses no heat but
only works with citrus oils when the essential oil is located in easily ruptured sacs.
Notes:
Distillation:
Steam is passed through the plant material, lifting the essential oil. The steam carrying the
essential oil is cooled and re-condenses back into its liquid form - called a hydrosol. Since
oil and water do not mix, the essential oil is easily separated from the hydrosol.
Notes:
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How many of Aveda’s Singular Notes are by definition essential oils?
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Vanilla and Rose absolutes are not by definition essential oils. Though they are volatile
aromatic organic compounds derived from any part of a plant, they are derived from a
process called solvent extraction.
Rank in order which of these extraction processes yield essential oil that smell
most like their respective plants:



The cost of essential oils:
The cost of essential oil varies. Some oils are quite expensive and some are
relatively cheap. The major factor in price is the yield of the essential oil.
How many roses does it take to obtain one drop of rose oil?
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Utilizing the essential oil information, create a script that you can use while
discussing Aveda products with your guests.
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How
do
2 essential
oils work?
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How do essential oils work?
Essential oils work in two ways:
1. Electrically
2. Physically
Essential oils work electrically through the sense of smell
We will first discuss how the oils work electrically through the sense of smell.
Close your eyes and think of your favorite aroma in the world. As you “smell” the aroma,
describe it. Write down your descriptions.
We describe aromas by:
How they make us
Of what they
us
“It is almost impossible to explain how something smells to someone who hasn’t smelled
it. There are names for all the pastels in a hue, but none for the tones and tints of a smell”
– Diane Ackerman A Natural History of the Senses.
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The olfactory sense:
Area of limbic system
Olfactory tract
Olfactory bulb
Olfactory epithelium
Nasal vestibule
Thalamus
Hypothalamus
Aroma
Pituitary
1. An aroma molecule is floating in the air.
2. The nose directs the molecules to the olfactory epithelium.
3. While most of us think we smell with our nose, we actually smell with our olfactory
epithelium, which has 10-40 million olfactory receptors. These receptors are
neurons with dozens of ciliate tips, which are stimulated when the aroma
molecules pass through the nasal passage. It is thought that the neurons
convert the chemical signals into electrical signals.
4. This electrical signal is sent to the olfactory bulb, which is a part of the brain. The
olfactory bulb sends the signal directly to the olfactory cortex.
5. This signal bypasses the thalamus which makes smell unique among 5 senses
as the other 4 pass through the thalamus which controls motor functions.
6. The olfactory cortex can send the signal into 2 directions: the limbic system
or the hypothalamus
7. The limbic system is the emotional and memory center of the brain. This explains
why we describe aromas by how they make us feel or of what they remind us.
The limbic system response is often psychological.
8. The hypothalamus controls homeostasis and affects autonomic functions such
as blood pressure, digestion, and stress response. The hypothalamus response
is thus physiological.
9. The collective areas that govern olfaction are termed the rhinencephalon.
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What does this technical jargon mean to you?
The sense of smell works in 2 ways:
1. Psychologically
2. Physiologically
Psychologically:
The psychological connection occurs through the limbic system which is the emotional
and memory center of the brain. We describe aromas the way we do because of this
connection. This aroma connection to memory and emotion can be very powerful and
happens in an instant. When you smell a familiar aroma, you can instantly be mentally
transported back to that moment in time when you encountered the aroma.
How you feel about that experience influences how you respond to that aroma. If you
have a pleasant or positive association with that memory, it can bring up positive
emotions when you smell the aroma again. If you had a negative response, a negative
reaction can arise.
The value of the sensory journey and aroma preference:
• The way individuals react can influence the effect of the essential oil
• Aromas can create new memories
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Physiologically:
•
•
•
The physiological response occur because the rhinencephalon has connections
to the hypothalamus
The tiny hypothalamus serves as the upper management of your health
maintenance regulating its homeostasis, or stable state of equilibrium.
Hypothalamus functions:
- Autonomic control
- Temperature regulation
- Thirst and control of body water
- Appetite control
- Endocrine control
- Emotional reactions
- Sleep and wakefulness
- Stress response
By smelling carefully selected blended oils, Aromatherapists believe that the
hypothalamus and all it controls will produce positive effects, restoring homeostasis
in the body.
A study in Japan showed that simply smelling lavender and rosemary increases free radical
scavenging activity and decreases cortisol level in saliva
(Toshiko Atsumi and Keiichi Tonosakia, Department of Oral Physiology, Meikai University, School
of Dentistry, 1-1, Keyaki-dai, Sakado-shi, Saitama 350-0283, Japan)
Cortisol is the stress hormone so simply smelling an aroma can influence recovery from stress.
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Essential oils also work physically through topical application and
through the lungs
•
•
•
•
•
•
Essential oils are compounds containing hundreds of individual chemicals called constituents.
These constituents are lipophilic meaning they bind with oils (fats) allowing them to bind or penetrate tissues reaching the cellular level.
These constituents can elicit biochemical effects on the cells that make up epithelial tissue, connective tissue, nerve tissue and muscle tissue.
Aromatherapists believe that by applying essential oils to the skin through topical application allow their combined chemical constituents to positively affect
the body’s cells.
Further, aromatherapists believe that the fat solubility of essential oils allows
them to soak through oil rich skin (epithelial tissue) to the blood stream and thus
have systematic responses.
As mentioned before, the aroma of essential oils can have an effect on the hypothalamus via the olfactory cortex. In addition, the inhaled essential oils enter
the body’s tissues via the alveoli, the lung gas transfer units and subsequently into the blood stream.
Based on the information you have learned, write another script incorporating
how essential oils work into a conversation with a guest.
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Aveda
3 Functional
Aroma Blends
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Aveda Functional Aroma Blends
Aveda Functional Aroma Blends:
The heritage of Aveda is aroma. Since our founding in 1978, the use of plant based aroma
has been at the forefront of the company. Smell is often the first thing consumers think of
when they think of Aveda.
Aveda products use the power of essential oils through functional aroma blends.
What is a functional aroma?
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Purefumery: Purefume™ is a trademarked word of Aveda which emphasizes the use of essential
oils and not synthetic aroma ingredients
•
Perfuming is a word that is derived from the Latin word “parfumare” meaning “through smoke.”
•
Perfume relates to smell - what the nose detects as it encounters the aroma.
•
Perfuming is an art that deliberately arranges aroma in a way that influences and moves people, affecting the senses, emotions and intellect.
•
•
A beautiful perfume is simply one that has instant gratification and appeal.
Creating a truly great purefume encompasses art to delve deeper into the psyche
of people stimulating neurons so one thinks deeper and feels deeper.
•
The real target for a purefumer is not the nose but the heart and mind.
Functionality:
•
•
Functionality targets a specific action on the skin, nails, hair, or body
The traditional uses of essential oils plus modern research determine which oils
are the most effective for a given function
Creating Aveda functional aroma blends and products:
1. Aveda uses “function first” to create products.
• Function first means to target an action that produces a response in the body (whether the body, skin, hair, nails, etc).
2. We search for the best plants to do the job whether odiferous or non-odiferous
• For the aroma, we look in-depth at the chemical constituents of essential oils and search for what is known about the effects those chemicals have on the body.
• Searches include published peer reviewed data, our own studies and traditional information that has been handed down from generation to generation. 3. The team, which includes aromatherapists, pharmacologists, and purefumers, creates a functional short list of essential oils.
4. The perfumers then start to work on the art, deliberating arranging the list materials in pursuit of the end users’ heart and mind.
5. Once the aroma is constructed, it is scientifically tested. Tests include:
• Physical tests such as anti oxidant tests
• Emotional tests such as panel testing when people are questioned on how a smell makes them feel.
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The Aveda R and D aroma team includes:
Master Natural Perfumer and Director of Aveda’s Botanical Aroma Lab
Ko-ichi Shiozawa joined Aveda in 1990 as Aveda’s Chief Perfumer and Director of the
Botanical Aroma Lab. As such, he is faced with the rewarding challenge of creating
transforming flower-and plant-derived aromas, derived from sustainably sourced
essential oils, absolutes and organic ingredients wherever possible, for Aveda’s hair
care, skin care, body care, Pure-Fume™ and makeup products. In his search for the
finest essential oils and plants that are sustainably sourced, Mr. Shiozawa continues
Ko-ichi Shiozawa
to build partnerships with producers, suppliers and farmers worldwide. Mr. Shiozawa
travels around the world to keep an active and close relationship with each of these partners. Especially
since the beginning of 2001, he has been concentrating his efforts and creative skill on development of a
new genre of natural aromas: all organic aromas.
For 15 years prior to Aveda, Mr. Shiozawa nurtured his craft working for three major international fragrance
houses in the U.S. including Takasago, Givaudan and Dragoco.
In April 2009, Mr. Shiozawa was named as Master Natural Perfumer.
Mr. Shiozawa is versed in Italian and fluent in Japanese, English and French—which landed him a
scholarship to the Sorbonne University in Paris. Mr. Shiozawa was trained extensively for five years from
the late 1960’s to become a perfumer by renowned French perfumers at a major perfume company in
Grasse, —the birthplace of the modern perfumery in France.
Ph.D. - Executive Director of Botanical Research for Aveda
As Director of Botanical Research for Aveda, Cindy and her team explore the
chemistry and biology of botanical ingredients in an effort to create high
performance plant-based products. With more than 25 years of experience,
Cindy has used her expertise in pharmacognosy and plant-based science to help
develop innovative botanical cosmetics and dietary supplements. Cindy has helped
establish leading research programs that explore the science of medicinal herbs
Cindy Angerhofer
and the quality of botanical extracts.
Before joining Aveda, Cindy received a B.A. in Chemistry from Gustavus Adolphus College and a Ph.D.
in Pharmacognosy from the University of Minnesota. She taught courses in the medicinal and biological
chemistry of natural substances for graduate and professional students at the University of Illinois at
Chicago College of Pharmacy. While at UIC, she established a bioassay screening program for antimalarial natural products and received funding from NIH (NIAID) and WHO in support of this work
which led to the identification of many anti-malarial compounds. She directed Research and Product
Development for Tom’s of Maine, Inc. for five years and has consulted for non-profit and for-profit
organizations in the natural products industry. Cindy has designed and delivered introductory, sciencebased curricula on medicinal herbs for pharmacists and other health care professionals as well as
seminars for consumer and trade audiences. She currently serves on the Advisory Board for the American
Botanical Council and the Board of the American Herbal Products Association. She frequently reviews
manuscripts for several scientific journals in natural products and has authored more than 40 peerreviewed publications.
Cindy loves to sing, is an avid birdwatcher, and enjoys biking to work (except in winter!).
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The Aveda R and D aroma team includes:
Perfumer, Aveda
Guy Vincent
A self-taught perfumer with a fervent passion for crafting unusually beautiful
and complex aromas, Guy Vincent is one of the few remaining in-house
perfumers in the beauty industry. Born in Australia, Guy has traveled the
world extensively, working and visiting raw material manufacturing and
sourcing locations on six continents—all experiences which have helped to
broaden his natural perfumery and essential oil knowledge. Guy’s complex
skill set includes: perfuming, cosmetic chemistry, complementary medicine
practice and technical knowledge of the personal care industry.
Guy joined Aveda in 2010 as a natural perfumer under the mentorship of Aveda Master Perfumer
Ko-Ichi Shiozawa. Since coming to Aveda Guy has worked tirelessly, amalgamating the world’s
finest essential oils derived from organic, sustainably sourced plants and flowers to compliment
high-performing, naturally-derived personal care products. Working with and traveling to
visit essential oil producers, suppliers and farmers around the world nicely compliment Guy’s
enthusiasm for creativity and artistic inspiration when creating new product aromas. Currently,
Guy is crafting organic air care and therapeutically beneficial aromas for inclusion in upcoming
products.
Prior to Aveda, Guy spent 16 years crafting aromas for leading brands, including: Aromatherapy
Associates, This Works, In Essence, Four Seasons Hotels and
Mandarin Oriental Hotels.
Guy honed his skill for aroma blending while apprenticing with a master craft brewer in Australia.
In his free time Guy enjoys cross country skiing, modern literature
and amateur gastronomy.
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Aveda consultants
Vinod Upadhyay
Kusum Upadhyay
Drs. Vinod and Kusum Upadhyay operate a medical clinic in Haridwar in Northern India outside Rishikesh
where they help patients heal through traditional, modern and Ayurvedic methods. Both well respected
Ayurvedic Physicians with years of experience in Ayurvedic medicine, pharmacology, botanical research
and aroma therapy, the Upadhyays are highly sought after as doctors, teachers and advisors for many
prestigious medical and educational facilities globally. The Upadhyays carry a vast heritage of Veda
and Ayurveda of thousands years inherited through Guru and family traditions. Their son is a trained
Dermatologist, blessed to sustain the lineage.
He is a specialist in Ayurvedic herbology and he also creates many of the medicines he uses in his clinic.
He recognizes and uses thousands of species of plants. Kusum is an ayurvedic specialist in women’s
health.
They have been sharing this Ayurvedic expertise with Aveda since the company was founded in 1978.
As part of the Aveda Research and Development Botanical Research Lab they help to identify and test
functional Ayurvedic botanical actives for our products. Along with our in house aroma team, they have
classified all the essential oils Aveda uses based on the elemental nature philosophy.
As well as participating in numerous boards and advisory groups, they are honorary advisors to the
Himalayan Institute Hospital Trust Ayurvedic Therapy Program and have received many honors and
awards, including the Aveda Healing Touch Award.
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Aveda consultant
Born to Herbalist parents Pierre Franchomme has a long history with natural
medicinal studies. Mr. Franchomme, a protégé of Jean Valnet, chose to
dedicate his professional life to studying aromatherapy and is one of the
worlds leading Clinical Aromatherapists. Some of his accomplishments are
the scientific discovery of the energy of aromatic molecules, creation of a
laboratory for aromatherapy based on the chemotyped essential oils and the
introduction of new essential oils in aromatherapy (Helichrysum italicum,
Inula graveolens, Ravensara aromatica, etc.)
Pierre Franchomme
He is the Author of reference books: L’Aromathérapie Exactement and La
Science de l’Aromathérapie as well as a Professor at the Faculty of Natural
Medicine and Ethno Medicine in Paris.
In 1990, Estee Lauder Companies brought Pierre on board to be the expert consultant in clinical
aromatherapy and pharmacology, where he continues to support Aveda in their efforts to produce high
quality, functional aroma blends.
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This chapter will focus on 4 functions:
1. Anti-acne
2. Balancing through Elemental Nature
3. Anti-inflammatory / Anti-oxidant
4. Chakra balancing
Function 1: Anti-acne
The Outer Peace skin care line targets acne. Salicylic Acid is the active ingredient within
the products but the functional aroma also contributes to the anti-acne effects.
•Certified organic lemon tea tree and geranium were chosen for the activity
against Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes), the microbe responsible for acne
• Test data showed that a 50/50 blend of these two oils showed a very good
inhibition of P.acnes growth with a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC)
of 0.0391%
• This compares to the standard active ingredient against acne, 5% salicylic acid,
with a MIC of 0.1563%
• To compliment these two important oils, lavender and vetiver were added for
their anti-irritant activity
• Citrus, floral, wood, and root oils that were historically used to reduce stress and
tension were added to create a beautiful, light, and soothing blend
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Lemon Tea Tree
Botanical Latin name: Leptospermum petersonii
Extraction method: Distilled
Plant Part: Leaves
Aromatic Qualities: Citrus, medicinal, sharp
Noteworthy anecdotes: Lemon tea tree is so named due to its similarity in activity to
authentic tea tree. It is not a combination of tea tree and lemon but rather a very distinct
oil in and of itself. Written reports of Lemon Tea Tree are available as early as 1918. In its
native Australia, it is considered anti infectious, anti viral, antiseptic, expectorant,
anti-inflammatory and a digestive stimulant (Mark Webb). The oil is considered stimulating
in minute quantities and sedating at normal strength. The herb is burned as an incense
and smudge stick.
Emotional Attributes: atmospheric cleanser of negative emotions, aids concentration.
Aveda Sensory Profile Testing: refreshed, awakened, calm, confident, uplifted.
Traditional Aromatherapy uses: oily skin, acne, insect repellent, dandruff, respiratory
complaints, cold and flu.
Chemistry: The essential oil contains geranial and citral as major components. These
compounds are known to have significant antiseptic activity (5 times more potent than
phenol) as well as contributing to the pleasant, lemony scent of the oil.
Safety Data: may be slightly irritating to eyes and skin
References:
Harborne, J.B. and Baxter, H. eds., Phytochemical Dictionary, Taylor and Francis,
Washington, DC, 1993.
Webb, Mark, Bush Sense, self published, Griffin Press, Adelaide, Australia, 2000, pg 69;
no references.
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Geranium essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Pelargonium graveolens
Extraction: Steam distillation
Plant Part: Leaves
Aromatic Qualities: Floral, green, sweet, citrus-like with a
hint of rose
Noteworthy anecdotes: The Latin name for geranium stems from
the Greek, pelargos, meaning stork, because the shape of the
seed capsules are long and pointy like a stork’s bill. Due to the confusion of the common
name geranium, Pelargonium is often mistaken for the Geranium flowers commonly grown
in flower boxes which are true members of the genus Geranium. Geranium oil is referred to
as Rose Geranium, and is called “the poor man’s rose” as the two oils share some similar
chemistry and therefore, aroma.
Emotional Attributes: stress, discontent; improves mental outlook; for the workaholic who
needs to reconnect with the self and emotions.
Aveda Sensory Profile Testing: soothed, calm, relaxed, refreshed, stimulated, uplifted.
Traditional Aromatherapy uses: antidepressant, antifungal, antispasmodic, antiinflammatory, astringent; acne, bruises, burns, scars, eczema, rash, varicosities, cellulite,
stress, oily skin, dermatitis, neuralgia.
Scientific evidence: Significant antibacterial activity has been shown for the essential oil of
Pelargonium graveolens (Dorman, Hammer). The oil exhibits broad antifungal activity (Shin,
Pattnaik), as well as antioxidant activity in the essential oil and the hydrosol (Sun, et al).
Aveda 5-Lipoxygenase testing (anti-inflammatory): use level 0.03%
Safety Data - May be slightly irritating to eyes and skin
References
Dorman, H.J. and Deans, S.G. (2000) Antimicrobial agents from plants: antibacterial activity of
plant volatile oils. J. Appl. Microbiol. 88(2): 308-16.
Shin, S (2003) Anti-aspergillus activities of plant essential oils and their combination effects
with ketoconazole or amphotericin B. Arch. Pharm. Res. 26(5): 389-93
Sun W, Xu Z, Wang C, Qu W, Lin C. (2005), Study on antioxidant activity of essential oils and its
monomer from Pelargonium graveolens, Zhong Yao Cai Feb;28(2):87-9.
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Function 2: Balancing Through Elemental Nature
Ayurveda tells us that the essence of the 5 natural elements is found in all living things,
including you. The 5 natural elements are Infinity, Air, Fire, Water and Earth.
When these elements are balanced, you feel and look healthy, vital and radiant. When
skin, scalp, body, or mind conditions arise, it is a signal that an element has increased
and needs to be balanced.
The Five Elements:
Infinity:
Air:
Fire:
Water:
Earth:
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The five elements combine to form 3 functional groups:



Prakruti: Mind body constitution that never changes throughout life. Prakruti focuses on
the individual as a whole.
Vikruti: imbalanced state of an element caused by too much of an element. Vikruti focuses
on condition or states of the body.
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Infinity /Air
Fire
Water / Earth
Light
Heavy
Cold
Hot
Dry
Moist
How do you get imbalances?
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What element(s) does peppermint balance?
What element(s) does Patchouli balance?
To create balance, you need to use the opposite qualities to settle the element:
infinity
air
Balancing Infinity Air = _____________________ requires________________
fire
Balancing Fire = ___________________________ requires_________________
water
earth
Balancing Water / Earth = _______________________ requires _________________
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Activity:
Smell the 3 aroma blotters that will be passed around. Notice the qualities of the aroma
and guess which element(s) that aroma would balance.
What it balances
What it is
Aroma 1
Aroma 2
Aroma 3
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The Scalp Remedy Balancing Concentrates utilize the Elemental Nature philosophy to
balance dry, oil, red or irritated scalp conditions. These concentrates are used during
the Scalp Balance Treatment within Botanical Therapy.
Smell each balancing concentrate and try to guess which blend it is. See if you can
detect the aromas smelled previously in the elemental nature exercise
Blend

Blend

Blend

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Scalp Conditions
when out of
Balance
Product that Balances the Condition
Elemental Nature
to be Balanced
Product
Scalp has:
• spots of dry patches
• overall dryness
• small dry flakes
Infinity/Air Nature
Scalp has:
• Redness
• Irritation
Fire Nature
Scalp has:
• visible oil/sebum
• large oily flakes
Water/Earth Nature
Scalp
Remedy
Conditioning
Concentrate
Key
Aroma-therapeutic
Essential
Oils
Benefit
• Cedarwood
• Patchouli
• Vetiver
Conditions
Dry Scalp
Conditions
Scalp
Remedy
Soothing
Concentrate
• Lavender
• Blue Camomile
• Rose
Soothes Red
and Irritated
Scalp
Conditions
Scalp
Remedy
Purifying
Concentrate
• Rosemary
• Tea Tree
• Orange
Purifies Oily
Scalp
Conditions
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Function 3: Anti-inflammatory / Anti-oxidant
To test for anti-inflammatory benefits Aveda uses the 5LOX assay. This test tube
experiment evaluates the anti-inflammatory activity of a potential ingredient through the
use of 5-lipoxygenese (5LOX), an integral enzyme in the human inflammatory pathway.
To test for anti oxidant blends Aveda uses the DPPH assay. This test tube experiment
evaluates a potential ingredients ability to scavenge free radicals by combining it with
diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine (DPPH) which carries an odd electron. If the electron is
paired off after combining, anti-oxidant activity is suggested.
Activity:
In groups visit the 3 stations about the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant blends –
Enbrightenment, Green Science and Aveda Men.
Using the information at the station and in your workbooks answer the questions
about each product.
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Enbrightenment: A skin care line that targets
hyperpigmentation, discoloration, and dark spots.
1. What are the two main functional aromas in the Enbrightenment aroma?


2. Inflammation and oxidation have been indicated in contributing to
3. True or False: Lavender is the most versatile of all of the essential oils.
true
false
4. List at least 3 properties of Lavender.



5. What are the complimentary aromas in the Enbrightenment blend?
6. List 2 properties of Rosemary oil.


7. From what part of Rosemary is the oil distilled?
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Green Science: An anti-aging skin care
range that targets fine lines and wrinkles
1. What are the 2 main functional essential oils in the Green Science aroma?


2. The Green Science aroma blend has showed great anti-inflammatory activity at _______% through 5-Lox tests.
3. Inflammation has been indicated in the formation of ____________ and_________________.
4. What are the complimentary aromas in the Green Science aroma?
5. Rose is known as the _______________________ of essential oils.
6. From where does Aveda get Sandalwood oil?
7. Rose has a calming effect on __________ ___________ _________________
as measured by decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline.
8. What is one of the chemical constituents that is in Sandalwood?
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Aveda Men: A range of hair care and skin specifically
created for the needs of men.
1. Which Aveda consultant created the Aveda Men’s aroma?
2. What are 2 of the main aromas in Aveda Men?


3. What are the complimentary aromas in Aveda Men?
4. What does Patchouli mean in the Tamil language?
5. List 3 properties and / or uses of Patchouli oil.



6. List 3 properties and / or uses of orange oil.



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Enbrightenment: An aroma with organic lavender, organic sandalwood, organic
rose geranium and organic rosemary oils is soothing and calming to the skin.
Anti inflammatory (5-lox study) and Anti oxidant (DPPH) studies suggest good
activity for the aroma blend. These two effects are useful in any skin care
formulation. Furthermore Inflammation and oxidation have been indicated in
contributing to hyperpigmentation.
Enbrightenment Essential Oils:
Lavender
Botanical Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia
Extraction: Distilled
Plant Part: Flowering tops
Aromatic Qualities: Floral, sweet, slightly herbaceous
Lavender comes from the word, ‘lavare’, meaning ‘to wash’. Lavender
has had a long association with bathing and cleanliness, perhaps
because it was a relatively effective antiseptic in an era of generally
unsanitary conditions. It is evident in our modern words, lavatory
and lavage. Lavender is the most versatile of all of the essential oils
and a common saying in aromatherapy is “When in doubt, use lavender”. It is also the
most widely studied essential oil and studies suggest a number of properties including
anti-anxiety, anti-microbial, anti- stress, anti-insomnia, and reduction of cortisol (stress
hormone) levels in the body among many others.
Rosemary
Botanical Latin name: Rosmarinus officinalis
Plant Part: Flowering branches
Aromatic Qualities: Herbaceous, camphor, with woody-balsamic
undertones.
The name means “dew of the sea” - from the Latin ros, dew, and
marinus, sea. This well known culinary herb was made famous by
Shakespeare’s Hamlet: “there’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance”.
In ancient times it was often included in special ceremonies such as
weddings and funerals to remember the beloved or the departed, respectively. In antiquity
rosemary was associated with Aphrodite, the goddess of love.. Studies have shown that
rosemary essential oil has antibacterial and antifungal activity due to the actions of several
of its constituents, including 1,8-cineole.
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Green Science:
A functional, certified organic aroma of rose, sandalwood, geranium oil,
grapefruit oil, bergamot oil, cistus, roman camomile, and lavender is soothing
and calming to the skin.
Inflammation is the root cause to many skin conditions but it has been shown to
be directly indicated in fine line and wrinkle formation. The Green science aroma
blend has shown great anti inflammatory activity through 5- Lox tests.
Rose and Australian Sandalwood are two of the main ingredients within the
Green Science aroma:
Lavender comes from the word, ‘lavare’, meaning ‘to wash’. Lavender has had a long association with
bathing and cleanliness, perhaps because it was a relatively effective antiseptic in an era of generally
unsanitary conditions. It is evident in our modern words, lavatory and lavage. Lavender is the most
versatile of all of the essential oils and a common saying in aromatherapy is “When in doubt, use
lavender”. It is also the most widely studied essential oil and studies suggest a number of properties
including anti-anxiety, anti-microbial, anti- stress, anti-insomnia, and reduction of cortisol (stress
hormone) levels in the body among many others. The Green Science aroma blend has showed great
anti-inflammatory activity at 0.006% through 5-Lox tests.
Rose
Botanical Latin name: Rosa damascena
Plant Part: Flowers
Aromatic Qualities: Floral, sweet, heady, spicy
Noteworthy anecdotes: The rose is the most celebrated of flowers, symbol of love
and beauty and long recognized as representing the feminine principle. It is also
revered for inspiring spiritual devotion, representing love on all levels. Rose has a
long history of use throughout civilization and a multitude of cultures as a food, medicine and cosmetic.
The precious rose oil is obtained by careful steam distillation of the freshly picked flowers of the Damask
rose, mainly in Bulgaria, Turkey, Morocco and China. There are several reasons for the high cost of rose
oil. It takes several hundred man-hours to pick the 3-4 tons of flowers needed to produce 1 kg of rose
oil; it takes 30-60 roses to make 1 drop of oil. It also contains very few secretory cells, making it one of
the most expensive of all the essential oils. (1 kilo of rose = 1 ml of oil compared to 1 kilo of lavender =
12 ml of oil.) More than 350 compounds have been identified, hinting at its broad range of activity.
It is known as the “queen of essential oils.” In studies, Rose has shown a calming effect on sympathetic
nervous system activity as measured by decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline.
Australian Sandalwood
Botanical Latin name: Santalum spicatum
Plant Part: Heartwood
Aromatic Qualities: Earthy, woody, sweet, balsamic, powdery finish
Noteworthy anecdotes: Sandalwood has always been considered a sacred tree, whether native to
India, Hawaii or Australia. Though the species may vary, each culture recognized the inherent wisdom of
these genera that has carried an association with metaphysics, spirituality and wide ranging religious
practices. The wood was valued for its insecticidal properties against tropical pests and was often used
in building sacred temples; not only were they resistant to termite damage, the fragrance was thought
to put the occupants into a calm, receptive and meditative state. Australian sandalwood has been
reported to have bisabolol constituents which studies have shown to be anti-inflammatory activity.
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Aveda Men: The Aveda Men’s aroma was found
to have both anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory
effects. The aroma was created by Pierre
Franchomme, a noted aroma pharmacologist.
The aroma is rich spicy blend containing patchouli,
orange, vetiver, lavender, lemon and spearmint.
Two the main oils are patchouli and orange.
Patchouli essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Pogostemon cablin
Plant Part: Leaves
Aromatic Qualities: Earthy, musty, herbaceous, balsamic with
wood undertones
Noteworthy anecdotes: The etymology is from the Greek pogon, meaning
beard, and stemon, stamen; the stamens of the small flowers are hairy.
In the Tamil language of South Asia and India where patchouli grows, pach
means green, and ilai, leaf. This unlikely member of the mint family shares
little of the aroma of most of its relatives; it is reminiscent of root oil, though
is distilled from the leaves. Indian shawls imported to England were originally packed with patchouli
leaves to repel insects; sales lagged when they were later sold without the distinctive lingering scent.
It enjoyed a surge in popularity during the 1960’s and was the signature scent of a generation of ‘flower
children’. Patchouli oil is an important perfume component and fixative, but is also used to flavor soft
drinks. Patchouli was historically used in skin care to promote the formation of scar tissue. Studies
have shown anti-fungal activity as well as a calming effect on sympathetic nervous system activity as
measured by decreases in blood pressure and adrenaline. Orange oil
Botanical Latin name: Citrus sinensis
Extraction: Expression
Plant Part: Fruit peel
Aromatic Qualities: Fresh, light, sweet, fruity, citrusy
Noteworthy anecdotes: This native of the Far East is one of the most recognized and universally
appealing fragrances known, probably in part due to its pleasant and wide spread enjoyment of the
tasty fruit. It is widely used in non-toxic household cleansers and solvents. Numerous studies have
reported antifungal, antibacterial, and anti-anxiety activity.
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Function 4: Chakra Balancing
Aveda Chakra
The Aveda Chakra aromas are an expression of the heritage of
Aveda, combining the two founding principles of the company:
aromaology and ayurveda.
What is a Chakra?
•
•
•
•
•
They are 7 energy centers that are located along the midline of the body from the base of the spine to the crown of the head.
They are links between mind and body and connect us to the physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual aspects of life.
The philosophy is grounded in Ayurveda, the 5,000 healing art and science of India.
The energy of the chakras spirals upward from the base of the spine to the crown of the head. This is the ascending current that helps connect us to a sense of purpose.
The energy of the chakras also spirals downward from the crown of the head to the base of the spine. This is the descending or manifesting current that helps us take our sense of purpose and manifest it in our physical lives.
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What is energy?
Chakras are practical tools for personal growth
•
•
•
•
We process different issues in life through the chakras
When you go through the loss of a relationship you process that experience through the heart center. That is why we say we are “heartbroken”
Let go of the idea of balanced and unbalanced or open and closed chakras
The energy of the chakras is on a spectrum. On one end is “balanced” and on the other end is “unbalanced”. Everyone is somewhere in between the two ends.
“unbalanced” “closed”
“balanced” “opened”
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Aveda Chakra aromas:
The Aveda chakras aromas were designed to help
you focus on the Chakras. They do not “open” the
chakras; rather they help you focus on the centers
so you can process your experiences.
•
•
•
•
The aromas can be used in a multitude of ways: on the body, in the air, in the car or anywhere else you wish.
The Aveda chakra aromas were created in collaboration with the Drs. Upadhyays.
The Upadhyays selected the essentials oils that relate to the individual chakras
The Aveda aroma team then created the aroma blends from those oils
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Individual Chakra information:
Chakra 1 – Chakra 1 is the root chakra and it is the foundation
of the entire system. Without a stable ground, one cannot grow. It is the
center where we ground ourselves and take care of our basic survival needs.
i.
Traditional name: muladhara “the root”
ii.
Location: base of the spine at the sacrum
iii.
Color: red
iv.
Lotus petals: 4
v.
Seed Sound: lam
vi.
Meditative word: grounding
vii.
Chakra aroma blend: vetiver, patchouli, and olibanum (frankincense)
viii.
Towards balance: one has good energy, a feeling of security, and a healthy body awareness
ix.
Towards imbalance: ones feels lethargy or exhaustion, resistance to change, and the need to slow down and ground oneself
x.
Physical and mental challenges: poor circulation, colon problems, legs problems, depression, overheating, and exhaustion
As an example of ayurvedic thinking, the first or root chakra contains vetiver. Vetiver oil comes from the
root of a grass. As the roots of the grass ground the plant and connect it to its survival, so the aroma
connects us the 1st chakra our grounding center
Vetiver
Botanical Latin name: Vetiveria zizanoides
Plant Part: Roots
Aromatic Qualities: Very deep earthy, woodsy aroma with sweet undertones
Noteworthy antidotes: Vetiver has been used traditionally in bath and
massage oils to aid relaxation and centering. Inhabitants of Java made
innovative screens from the vetiver roots and when used in a window or a fan it released the aroma throughout the house. Vetiver is an extremely relaxing stress reducer that helps relieve stiffness. Vetiver
has been described as sedating, restoring, and centering.
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Chakra 2 – Chakra 2 is the pleasure / lumbar center. With chakra II, we move
beyond our basic needs into relationship with others. It is the center of vitality,
nourishment, sexuality, and sensation.
i.
ii.
iii.
iv.
v.
vi.
vii.
viii.
ix.
x.
Traditional name: svadhisthana “sweetness”
Location: just below the navel in the lumbar vertebrae region
Color: orange
Lotus petals: 6
Seed sound: vam
Meditative word: nourishment
Chakra aroma blend: orange, geranium, and sandalwood
Towards balance: one has stable energy, alertness, and unblocked emotions. One is connected to all 5 senses.
Towards imbalance: one feels repression, holding back, and can develop addictions. One feels disconnected to their senses.
Physical and mental challenges: lower back and hip problems, cough, exhaustion, menstrual cramps, mood swings, and kidney problems
Chakra 3 – Chakra 3 is the power / solar plexus center. Chakra III is about
motivation and tapping into your own power. In this center we set our
intentions and desires, moving out into the world to establish our self.
i.
Traditional name: manipura “lustrous gem”
ii.
Location: solar plexus
iii.
Color: yellow
iv.
Lotus petals: 10
v.
Seed sound: ram
vi.
Meditative word: intention
vii.
Chakra aroma blend: lavender, balsam fir and lemon
viii.
Towards balance: one achieves goals and has strong motivation
and direction, mental and emotional peace and self-confidence
ix.
Towards imbalance: mental blocks, nervousness, and impatience, lack of direction in life
x.
Physical and mental challenges: liver problems, lack of vitalization, dispelling fears, elevating mood, digestive problems,
and constipation
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Chakra 4 – Chakra 4 is the heart center. Chakra 4 is about connection to
others. This center brings us the ability to see other points of view and to feel
sympathy, empathy, and love
i.
Traditional name: anahata “the sound which issues without the striking of any two things together”
ii.
Location: in the center of the chest posterior to the sternum
iii.
Color: green
iv.
Lotus petals: 12
v.
Seed sound: yam
vi.
Meditative word: harmony
vii.
Chakra aroma blend: mandarin, palmarosa,
and sandalwood
viii.
Towards balance: love and connection to self and others, one feels comfortable in all relationships
ix.
Towards imbalance: depression, loss of connection, lack of caring, lack of self
x.
Physical and mental challenges: lung or heart problems, ulcers, eye problems, loss of love, loneliness, headaches, and infections
Chakra 5 – Chakra 5 is the creative / throat center. Chakra 5 is about creativity
and self expression. As one moves into the 5th chakra, one begins to express
ideas and communicates effectively
i.
Traditional name: visuddha “free from impurities”
ii.
Location: throat
iii.
Color: light blue
iv.
Lotus petals: 16
v.
Seed sound: ham
vi.
Meditative word: expression
vii.
Chakra aroma blend: grapefruit, rosemary, and ylang ylang
viii.
Towards balance: one has intensity, trust, inner reliance, and easily etxpresses their ideas and thoughts
ix.
Towards imbalance: one is selfish, has difficulty expressing thoughts and emotions, feels rejection
x.
Physical and mental challenges: throat or thyroid problems, insomnia, headaches, inflammation, swellings, and fever
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Chakra 6 – Chakra 6 is the intuition / brow / third eye center Chakra 6 is
about developing one’s intuition, imagination and perception
i.
Traditional name: ajna “communication from above”
ii.
Location: in between the eyebrows
iii.
Color: dark blue
iv.
Lotus petals: 2
v.
Seed sound: sham
vi.
Meditative word: insight
vii.
Chakra aroma blend: petitgrain, orange, and geranium
viii.
Towards balance: one feels strong intuition, a connection with the higher self, and mentally fit
ix.
Towards imbalance: one has mental blocks, over thinks things, and lacks depth
Physical and mental challenges: nervous system challenges, headaches, ear, nose, and eye problems
x.
Chakra 7 – Chakra 7 is the bliss / crown center. Chakra 7 is about the
connecting to something greater than oneself and expressing wisdom
and enlightenment
i.
Traditional name: sahasrara “thousand petaled”
ii.
Location: top of the head (crown)
iii.
Color: violet
iv.
Lotus petals: 1000 or many petaled
v.
Seed sound: om
vi.
Meditative word: wisdom
vii.
Chakra aroma blend: angelica, elemi, and olibanum (frankincense)
viii.
Towards balance: one is strong, unclouded, and feels joy at the wonder of life
ix.
Towards imbalance: one feels loss of self, spiritual abandonment, lack of connection to the universe
x.
Physical and mental challenges: stress and nervousness, fear, and depression
Chakra 7 contains angelica which is named after the Greek “angelos” meaning angels. This plant has been
used throughout history to connect one to a higher self. Thus its aroma is used in the 7th chakra which
connects us to a sense of purpose or higher self.
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Chakra Balancing Meditation:
The Chakra Balancing Meditation is a simple practice that can be done from 5 minutes up to an hour or longer.
The practice engages both the left and right hemispheres of the brain. During the practice one visualizes a
spinning wheel of colored energy at the location of each chakra (right brain visual) while silently repeating the
word of the chakra (left brain language). You may either choose to focus on individual chakras or you can do the
practice moving through all 7 chakras from 1 to 7 or 7 to 1. Whatever the chakra words mean to you, imagine
that feeling growing stronger during the practice. For example, the word for chakra 1 is grounding. As you repeat
the word grounding, feel yourself becoming more grounded with each moment. The word for chakra 2 is
nourishment. As you repeat the word, feel your body being nourished. The word for chakra 3 is intention.
As you repeat the word, set your intentions for the day or the week, in your mind and body.
The meditation can be downloaded from aveda.com and put on an I-pod or other MP3 player.
• Find a reasonably quiet place.
• Spray the chosen Chakra™ Balancing Body Mist around your body.
• Sit comfortably with the spine erect.
• Close your eyes and focus on deep diaphragmatic breaths so that as you inhale your abdomen expands and as you exhale your abdomen contracts. (1 minute)
• Focus your attention on the area of the chakra.
• Imagine a colored spinning wheel of energy in the area of the chakra. (1 minute)
• Notice any sensations, emotions, thoughts, feelings or memories that arise when you concentrate on the chakra. (1 minute)
• Repeat the word associated with the chakra quietly to yourself. (6-10 minutes)
• At times, your mind will drift away from the word and visualization, to thoughts in your mind or sounds in the environment. Once you realize you are not focusing on the chakra, gently bring your focus back to the word and visualization.
• Stop focusing on the chakras and sit easily. (1 minute)
• Slowly open your eyes.
The following is a list of the location, colors, and words associated with each chakra:
7th Chakra: Crown Center
• Location – top (crown)
of the head
• Color – violet
• Word – wisdom
6th Chakra: Third Eye Center
• Location – in between
the eyebrows
• Color – dark blue
• Word – insight
5th Chakra: Throat Center
• Location – throat area at
the base of the neck
• Color – light blue
• Word – expression
4th Chakra – Heart Center
• Location – center of the chest behind the
sternum (breastbone)
• Color – green
• Word – harmony
3rd Chakra: Solar Plexus Center
• Location – solar plexus
• Color – yellow
• Word – intention
2nd Chakra: Pleasure Center
• Location – lower abdomen a few fingers’
width below the navel
• Color – orange
• Word – nourishment
1st Chakra: Root Center
• Located – the base of the spine
(around your tailbone)
• Color – red
• Word – grounding
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Create a script to introduce the concept of Aveda functional aromas to your guests.
52
introduction:
Aveda 4
Singular
Notes
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Aveda Singular Notes
Aveda Singular Notes:
•
•
•
Aveda Singular notes are single essential oils diluted in a carrier base derived
from coconut oil
Because they are diluted, they are safe for direct application to the skin
Singular notes are retail products that are a great introduction to those guests who want to explore using essential oils
Brainstorm ways that you can use the Singular Notes at home.
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Professional Blending:
• Singular Notes can also be used professionally by spa and salon professionals to help achieve skin and body care needs.
• 1-3 drops of a single oil can be blended with a masque or moisturizer and used
during a facial.
• For blends, up to 40 drops of 3 oils can blended in a 2 oz applicator bottle with
- Professional massage oil
- Hydrating Formula
- All Sensitive Composition
• To create a blend that smells like an equal blend of oils, simply add an equal number of drops to the blend (i.e. rose absolute 20 drops, sandalwood 20 drops).
•
To create a blend with one aroma more dominating than the other simply add more of one aroma than another based on percentages) (i.e. if you want and rose and sandalwood blend where sandalwood dominates use sandalwood 25 drops and rose absolute 15 drops or some other proportion).
• Always blend the Singular Notes together before adding to the base product.
• If you mix the oils individually into the base, then your final product will smell like different oils at different times, but not smell like a blend.
• Blend the Singular Notes into a 2 oz. applicator bottle, shake well, and then
add the base.
Blend 
Blend 
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Singular Note Information
Learning about essential oils take time. It is best to purchase many
reference books and research small amounts of information on the oils
on a frequent basis. Combining the study with the use of essential
oils in the spa, you gain knowledge over time.
Suggested references:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
The Practice of Aromatherapy by Jean Valnet
Advanced Aromatherapy by Kurt Schnaubelt
Medical Aromatherapy by Kurt Schnaubelt
Gattefosse’s Aromatherapy by Rene Maurice Gattefosse
Aromatherapy from A-Z by Paticia Davis
Mauguerite Maury’s Guide to Aromatherapy by Marguerite Maury
Complete Book of Essential Oils by Valerie Ann Worwood
Aromatherapy, A Complete Guide to the Healing Art by Mindy Green and Kathi Keville
Practical Aromatherapy by Shirley Price
The Aromatherapy Bible: The Definitive Guide to Using Essential Oils by Gill Farrer Halls
Elemental Nature Aroma Classifications:
Singular Notes:
Infinity / Air balancing
Fire balancing
Water / Earth balancing
Lavender
Lavender
Bergamot
Vanilla
Peppermint
Tea Tree
Patchouli
Rose
Eucalyptus
Rose
Tangerine
Bergamot
Peppermint
Tangerine
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The following is reference information to get you started:
Bergamot Oil
Botanical Latin Name: Citrus bergamia
Plant Plant: Fruit peel
Aromatic Qualities: Sweet fruity aroma with citrus undertones
Elemental Nature: Balances Water/Earth, Infinity/Air
Skin Condition: Good for oily and blemished conditions as well as
acne prone skin.
Traditional and well-being uses: Bergamot is uplifting and relaxing and works as a great deodorant
and is useful for anxious clients. Bergamot has been used as an insect repellent and is thought to
have anti-depressant properties and has been used for loss of appetite. Bergamot has also been
used to balance mental and psychological states and to relieve tension.
Eucalyptus oil
Botanical Latin Name: Eucalyptus globules
Extraction: Distillation
Plant Part: Leaves and stems
Aromatic Qualities: Powerful camphoraceous note
Elemental Nature: Balances Water/Earth
Skin condition: Good for oily skin prone to acne and blemishes.
Traditional and well being uses: Eucalyptus is refreshing and stimulating and has
been used as a deodorant and insect repellent. Eucalyptus has been widely used as a
decongestant inhalant for colds. It has also been used to relieve local pain and discomfort
caused by muscular stress and rheumatism. Eucalyptus has been used as a germicide and
antiseptic and is a common flavoring for cough/cold products.
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Lavender essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia
Plant Part: Flowering tops
Aromatic Qualities: Floral, sweet, slightly herbaceous
Elemental Nature: Balances Infinity/Air
Skin condition: Good for all skin conditions. It helps balance the
production of sebum and is considered a rejuvenating agent on the
skin. It also has deep cleansing and balancing qualities that are
beneficial for blemished skin.
Traditional and well being uses: Lavender is the most versatile of all essential oils. It
has been used as a treatment for colds and flu through steam inhalation and to relieve
headaches by massaging into the temples. Lavender was used in ancient times during
massage to help soothe muscular conditions such as muscle stress, tension, rheumatism,
sciatica, and arthritis. It is considered an insect repellent and is soothing to insect bites
and stings, as well as sunburn and minor scratches. On emotional and psychological levels,
Lavender was used to calm and balance fluctuating moods and help anxiety. It is usually
described as balancing, calming, and soothing.
Patchouli essential oil
Botanical Latin name: Pogostemon cablin
Plant Part: Leaves
Aromatic Qualities: Earthy, musty, herbaceous, balsamic with
wood undertones
Elemental Nature: Balances Infinity/Air
Skin condition: Good for dry skin conditions. Especially useful with
chapped skin and dandruff conditions.
Traditional and well-being uses: Patchouli is calming and relaxing was historically
used in skin care to promote the formation of scar tissue. Emotionally, it was used in
small doses to stimulate and in larger doses, to sedate. It was considered a strong, neural
stimulant. In folk medicine, it was considered an effective treatment for edema, obesity,
and water retention.
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Peppermint oil:
Botanical Latin Name: Mentha piperita
Plant Part: Fresh partially dried flowering herb
Aromatic Qualities: Strong, minty-herbaceous aroma with balsamic undertones
Elemental Nature: Balances Fire, Water/Earth
Skin condition: Good for normal to oily skin conditions. It can be used in facial steams to
cleanse and decongest the skin and is especially beneficial for acne-prone conditions.
Traditional and well being uses: Peppermint is stimulating and a decongestant. It was
known in ancient times as a soothing remedy for digestive problems, with beneficial action
on the liver, stomach, and intestines. It primary action was antispasmodic and has been
used for hundreds on years to alleviate the symptoms of colds and flu. It has also been
used (diluted) to massage the abdomen to help relieve digestive upsets.
Rose absolute
Botanical Latin name: Rosa damascena
Extraction: Solvent extraction
Plant Part: Flowers
Aromatic Qualities: Deeply floral with woody, sweet,
and honey undertones
Elemental Nature: Balances Infinity/Air, Fire
Skin Condition: Especially beneficial for dry, sensitive, and maturing skin. Rose has been used
in the past to diminish redness caused by distended capillaries, although application was over
an extended period of time.
Traditional and well being uses: Rose absolute is relaxing and sedating and has been shown
scientifically to increase surface skin temperature and superficial blood volume (vasodilation).
Rose absolute has been used in the past as a gentle antidepressant and aphrodisiac.
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Tangerine oil
Botanical Latin Name: Citrus tangerina
Plant Part: Fruit peel
Aromatic Qualities: Sweet, citrus aroma with fruity undertones
Elemental Nature: Balances Water/Earth, Infinity/Air
Skin Condition: Good for normal to oily skin conditions.
Traditional and well being uses: Tangerine is uplifting, energizing, and awakening.
Tea Tree Oil
Botanical Latin Name: Melaleuca alternifolia
Plant Part: Leaves and stems
Aromatic Qualities: Warm, spicy strongly terpenic aroma reminiscent of cardamom
and nutmeg
Elemental Nature: Balances Water/Earth
Skin Condition: Excellent for oily, blemished and acne conditions.
Traditional and well being uses – Tea Tree is a stimulating oil and is active against all 3
categories of infectious organisms: bacteria, fungi, and viruses. In the Far East, it was used
for colds, cold sores, acne, fungal infections, sinus problems, and as an anaesthetic and
deodorant. The aboriginal people of Australia have used Tea Tee to treat wounds and burns.
Tea Tree has also been used over the years to treat boils, skin infections, and sore throats.
60
Chapter four
i
Aroma
Vanilla Absolute
Botanical Latin Name: Vanilla planifolia
Extraction: solvent extraction
Plant Part: cured, dried beans
Aromatic Qualities: rich, sweet, balsamic aroma
Elemental Nature: balances Infinity / Air
Skin condition: Good for all skin types but in particular normal
to dry skin.
Traditional and well being uses: Vanilla is calming, grounding, and balancing and
has mostly been used as ingredient in perfumes. It is considered an aphrodisiac and
was used by the Aztecs and Toltecs to strengthen the heart, eliminate tiredness, and
protect against fever.
61
chapter four
Write down 2 things that you learned today that you will incorporate into your
work with Aveda.
62
Chapter four
i
Appendix
To test for anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, Aveda uses the following tests:
DPPH assay: This is a test tube experiment to evaluate a potential ingredient’s ability
to scavenge free radicals or its antioxidant activity. The ingredient (e.g. essential oil)
is combined with diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine (DPPH), which carries an odd electron. If this particular ingredient is a free radical scavenger, the odd electron becomes
paired off. This action results in a direct color change within the well. The plate is
then inserted into a spectrophotometric plate reader which generates specific values.
The result, therefore, is determined by these values in combination with the color
change. From the result, we can then determine use level in formulation.
5LOX assay: This test tube experiment evaluates the anti-inflammatory activity of a
potential ingredient through the use of 5-lipoxygenase (5LOX). 5LOX is an integral
enzyme in the human inflammatory pathway and inhibiting this enzyme reduces the
production of inflammatory mediators (leukotrienes) thusly reducing inflammation.
So within this assay, the ingredient is analyzed for its inhibition of the 5LOX enzyme. Results are obtained only through values produced by the plate reader and from
these results, we determine use level in formulation.
63
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aveda aromaology I essence of aveda workbook new 2013

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