walter schug , owner and winemaster
Transcription
walter schug , owner and winemaster
W ALTER S CHUG , O WNER AND WINEMASTER Standing on a rise behind his namesake winery south of the town of Sonoma, Walter Schug sees more than the Carneros appellation that he helped to found. From this special vantage point, Walter surveys a California wine industry that has been transformed from its forgotten status in 1959 to the level of international quality leader it enjoys today. Modestly, Walter simply acknowledges an involvement in this transformation. Of course, there is much more to the story. Walter and impact on California wine make him an icon in the industry. Schug’s “It was the great potential I saw here, and the opportunity B ORN IN THE W INERY Walter Schug was born in Germany in 1935. He was raised on the grounds of the Staatsweingut Assmannshausen, one of Germany’s top Pinot Noir estate, which his father managed. His youth was spent playing in the winery and vineyards, and working alongside his father. There was little question that Walter Schug would one day make wine. His education would take him to the prestigious German wine institute of Geisenheim, but only after satisfying the entrance requirement at that time of four years of the renowned wine estate of Dr. Buerklin Wolf and a year as Bottling Supervisor for Eagle Bonded Brothers to be part of its development, that convinced me to come to California.” W alter Schug, Owner/Winemaster academic program at Geisenheim, leading to his degree in viticulture and enology in 1959. His studies completed, he was invited by the California Grape Products Corporation in Delano to come emigrate. “I expected to follow in my father’s footsteps,” Walter recalls, “but it was the great potential I san in California and the opportunity to be part of its development that convinced me to come to California.” Relations and Quality Control for Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino Counties. Gallo’s relationship with nearly a third of the vineyards in this area gave Walter the opporunity to become acquainted with some and vice president at the Phelps new Napa Valley winery. S ETTING B ENCHMARKS FOR THE I NDUSTRY Over the next ten years, Walter Schug launched into one of the most important streaks of innovation in California winemaking history. At Phelps, Walter produced America’s proprietary Bordeaux-style blend, the critically acclaimed “Insignia.” He further developed Napa Valley’s reputation as a source of great Cabernet, producing the single-vineyard bottlings from the Eisele and Bacchus vineyards. His groundbreaking work with botrytis-a ected Riesling and Gewurztraminer would help r the very idea of California dessert wine. Walter would go on to be the to bottle a varietal-labeled Syrah. Under Walter’s hand, Joseph Phelps Vineyards would become one of California’s top wineries. But it wasn’t enough. “There was never a moment when Pinot Noir was anything but the real object of my desire,” recalls Walter. “Mr. Phelps knew this and let me dabble with the best Pinot grapes I could Eventually though, tough market conditions for Pinot and rising Cabernet sales led to the end of the Phelps Pinot Noir after the 1979 vintage. So in 1980, determined not to give up on Pinot Noir, Walter bought the same grapes he had wine under his own name. Walter continued at worked with at Phelps and produced the Phelps until 1983, when he left to focus full time on his new label. “Working with Mr. Phelps was a wonderful opportunity. His vision allowed me to test myself and my ideas,” says Walter, “and follow my passion for Pinot Noir.” The wine under the Schug label was the 1980 Heinemann Vineyard Pinot Noir from grapes grown on a Napa Valley hillside vineyard. Though this vineyard launched the brand, Walter’s search for great Pinot Noir eventually took him to the Carneros region. over C ARNEROS A S W ALTER ’ S S OURCE OF G REAT PINOT N OIR Walter’s work with Carneros growers while at Gallo and Joseph Phelps convinced him that this region was capable of producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. His early Carneros bottlings came from Andy Beckstoffer’s “Los Amigos Vineyard,” representing the first single-vineyard designated wines from this important grower. In 1985 Walter would participate in founding the Carneros Quality Alliance. Ironically, the early Schug vintages saw Chardonnay produced in greater quantities than Pinot Noir. Walter explains, “Chardonnay subsidized my passion for Pinot.” Today, Carneros Pinot Noir leads the way at Schug Carneros Estate. And the pursuit of great Pinot has always been a family affair. Until her passing in 2007, Walter’s wife Gertrud, herself the daughter of a German winery manager, was the Chief Financial Officer. Son Axel was in charge of marketing and, after Walter’s retirement in 2007, became the Managing Partner. Daughter Claudia Schug Schuetz, who lives in Germany, oversees the promotion and sales of Schug wines in Europe. Walter continures as consultant and winemaker emeritus. In 2010 Schug Carneros Estate celebrated its 30th year and Walter his 57th harvest.