A Review of the NcStar AAKSB Ak/sks Sling

Slingn’ – A Review of the
NcStar AAKSB Ak/sks Sling –
Black
The NcStar AAKSB
Sling – Black
Ak/sks
Long gun slings have two primary purposes; (1) Carry, and (2)
Control. The secondary purpose is to snag on anything worth
snagging.
Having used my share of slings in the over 44-years of
shooting, the simple two-point sling continues to be my
favorite. I have tried single-point slings, fast-adjusting
slings, and three-point slings; none of which has brought any
degree of high satisfaction for me.
Before I get into the crux of this article, I would like to
state that I have two golden rules (among others); (1) Never
fire a handgun that is shorter than my longest finger, and (2)
Never carry a long gun that has a muzzle lower than the back
of my head when slung over my shoulder. With today’s
propensity to owning long guns with short barrels, rule #2
excludes many fine firearms.
Front Mounted SKS sling
for the AR
Rear Mount SKS Sling on the
AR
Standard SKS Sling Mounted
on the Front of My Beloved
Boo Boo with Standard SKSMossberg 500 12-gauge (Boo
Boo)
Sling Rear Mount
Lest I digress further, a two-point sling that has garnered my
attention in the last year or so has been the sling that came
with my first SKS rifle. It was in ragged condition and I
ordered a new one to replace it. I liked it so well that I
ordered a second to use on a Mossberg 500 12-gauge (Boo Boo)
that I had fitted with a Hogue Over-molded stock; the color of
the sling and the leather mounting tab looks great on the
shotgun. I found appropriate Blackhawk tactical quickdetachable (QD) sling mounts and a magazine tube cap. I soon
found out that I could also purchase the sling in black
webbing with a black mounting tab. At the time I thought, “Why
not try it on a few of my other rifles?” The first experiment
was with a Mossberg 500 20-gauge pump (Baa Baa). Again,
Blackhawk tactical quick-detachable (QD) sling mounts and a
magazine tube cap were ordered for “Baa Baa.” The SKS scaling
was perfect for it. That rolled the ball forward and since
then the sling has been mounted on numerous rifles and
shotguns; the sling just works for me. The NcStar AAKSB Ak/sks
Sling – Black (NcStar AAKSB) sling has also found its way onto
a Windham Weaponry “SRC” (“Slick”) and the Ruger Gunsite Scout
(“Gray Boy”).
SKS Front Mount on a
Mossberg 500 20-gauge (Baa
Baa)
SKS Sling Rear Mount on the
Mossy 500 20-gauge (Baa Baa)
My sole purpose in sling’n these firearms is to aid in fire
control and not carrying. That is not to say; however, that
the slings cannot be used in that respect. I will touch on
that in a bit. I am far more effective when shooting (offhand)
a long gun while using a sling to support the shot(s) than
not. Given suitable physical support, I am not bad with a long
gun. Without a good physical means of support, I’m getting a
little bit shaky in my old age. Having adequate physical
support means I can concentrate on sight and trigger control
and less on supporting the firearm.
The NcStar AAKSB Ak/sks Sling – Black (NcStar AAKSB) is
constructed of heavy webbing and comes with heavy-grade
leather tabs on each end of the sling that are looped through
the sling swivel. A screw-button provides the means to secure
the tabs. The flat-headed screw can be tightened or loosened
with an appropriate flat-tip screwdriver or even that piece of
change that I might have in my pocket. However, the use of the
Blackhawk tactical QD sling mounts mitigates having to use any
tools to attach or detach the sling. The exception, of course,
is any long gun with non-detachable sling loops – like the
SKS, AK, and others.
The sling is easily adjustable and has one conventional
adjustment buckle. I normally place the adjustment buckle on
the rear of the stock. I simply do not prefer the adjustment
buckle near the forearm as it interferes with how I run a
sling. You; however, can place the adjustment buckle wherever
you want it.
SKS Sling Rear Mount on the
Ruger Gunsite Scout
SKS Sling Front Mount on the
Ruger Gunsite Scout (Gray
Boy)
Using
the
Sling
in
Conventional Method
the
Using the Sling My Way to
Add
More
(Adjustable)
Tension
I work a sling a little different from the conventional
manner. In most cases, the sling is in the “traveling”
position. The shooter then transitions the rifle from the
carrying to the shooting position. A right handed shooter will
work the sling with the left arm while a left-handed shooter,
like me, operates the sling with the right hand.
Most shooter simply apply tension to the sling with their
upper arm while hold the forearm with the support hand. There
is another method where the support arm is inserted inside the
sling, the hand and lower arm come around outside of the
sling, and the support hand takes up a position in the
forearm. My technique adds a little difference.
Rather than just inserting the support arm through the inside
of the sling, and then outward around the sling to take up a
position on the forearm, I use the same motion but actually
press the sling against the forearm using the palm of my hand.
By moving my hand forward or backward along the forearm, I can
make minor adjustment to the tension of the sling and how much
tension is placed on the rifle; move the hand forward to
lessen the tension or move the hand rearward to increase the
tension. The elbow moves in and out with the hand. This helps
me gauge how much I want to pull the rifle into my shoulder
for firing or steady the front end for the shot. With this
method, I feel that the rifle is more part of my body rather
than just being an extension of it. This method also puts
stress more to the rear of the rifle rather than sideways
using the other method.
On a bolt-action rifle, the support hand simply lets go of the
sling to operate the bolt and then returns to the sling with
hand over top of the sling to set up for the next shot. I can
usually do this while keeping the rifle mounted in the
shoulder.
The technique also works on pump shotguns; the support hand is
relaxed to work the pump handle and the sling simply slides
through the palm of the hand. If I really need to pull the
shotgun into my shoulder, I can simply grip the sling near the
front sling mount and pull it (and the shogun) toward me.
For semi-automatic firearms (rifle or shogun), using this
technique allows me to keep a constant pressure on the sling
(and the gun) to stabilize multiple shots. This technique also
works with lever-action rifles, as I don’t have to remove the
support hand to operate the action.
Note that I have the sling adjusted for using this technique
and not for carrying. If I need, for some reason, to “sling”
the firearm I can still do so. I don’t casually walk in the
forest nor am I stalking prey any more. My long guns are
primarily used for sporting or defensive purposes. Again, I
use the sling for offhand shooting in any of the four shooting
positions where I feel that I need a more stable platform. The
exception is usually when I can use a bipod. Pulling back on a
sling; however, can enhance shooting with a bipod. A bipod is
simply a rest for the front end of the rifle. Why just let the
sling hang when you can use it to your advantage?
Transitioning the firearm from a carry to a firing position,
and vice-versa, is a topic for later discussion.
The AK/SkS sling is perfect for my needs on a firearm that may
be used tactically. I have regular hunting slings and quickadjusting slings on other rifles and the simple two-point
sling gets the job done.
Here is some product details:
NcStar AAKSB Ak/sks Sling – Black
Metal Length Adjustment Buckle.
Two Leather Attachment Loops.
Replica of Original SKS/AK Sling but in Black.
LENGTH: 44 INCHES
WIDTH: 1 INCH
WEIGHT: 4.76 OZ
Read
more
@
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MASAYZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailp
age_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cold Steel Peace Maker III –
Product Review
Cold Steel Peace Maker III
Looking for an inexpensive knife to throw into an “operator’s
bag”, I decided to give the Cold Steel Peace Maker III a try.
I like fixed bladed knives and Cold Steel has satisfied my
proclivity toward them for a number of years. I normally carry
the Cold Steel Kobun as my EDC to accompany the Springfield
XDs 4.0 .45. To satisfy the “want” for a good knife in a 4”
blade length, the Cold Steel Peace Maker III was chosen from a
number of knives.
Here are the basic features of the knife:
Blade Length: 4″
Overall Length: 8 1/2″
Blade Thickness: 2.5 mm
Steel: German 4116 Stainless
Weight: 3.4 oz.
Handle: 4 3/4″ Long High Impact Polypropylene
Sheath: Secure-Ex Sheath
Cold Steel Peace Maker
III w/Springfield XDs .45
The blade is sharp from the factory, but a little light honing
made the edge just a little but sharper. “The Peace Maker’s
“Scandi” ground blade bevel makes them very easy to resharpen,
while the unique compound ground clip point -provides a very
stiff, distal tapered point capable of piercing thick targets
without compromising precious cutting power.”
The knife is of the full-length tang design that adds strength
to the overall knife. A lanyard hole in the grip provides for
a nice place to add a Para cord lanyard. The grip is welldesigned and provides adequate protection in preventing the
hand from sliding forward onto the blade during wet
operations. The grip is ridged top and bottom to ensure a good
hand hold and has a curved butt to help fit into the little
finger. This feature is handy when operating the knife from
blade-forward or blade-back positions.
Although Cold Steel flaunts the Cold Steel Peace Maker III as
a “boot knife”, the Secure-ex sheath’s design, I believe,
prevents it from being a good boot knife. When worn as a boot
knife, the grip should be readily accessible for easy
retrieval of the knife; the design of the Secure-ex sheath
prevents this from happening.
Cold Steel Peace
Maker II At Home
in the Secure-Ex
Sheath. Note How
Much Handle is
Available for a
hand-grab from the
sheath
The Cold Steel Peace Maker III slides into the sheath well and
is secured by tension of two flaps and a grooves that are
built into the sheath. The knife may, in fact, be held too
well. The sheath flaps (for lack of a better description)
cover about two-thirds of the knife handle. The operator must
grab the upper one-third of the handle and pull until the
knife is freed from the sheath, and a healthy pull is must be.
When one is in the time of need to pull a boot knife, it is no
time to be concerned about anything that might hinder the
draw. My immediate thought was to cut off a substantial amount
of the sheath’s flaps, but that can’t be done.
Cold Steel Peace
Maker III. Note
the Position of
the
mounting
clip and the
Tension “Flaps”
A well-constructed metal belt/boot clip is mounted to one of
the sheath’s flaps. The clip is adequate to hold the sheath on
a belt (up to 1 ¼”) or inside a boot. Inside a boot, the
majority of the knife is hidden, as the clip is high on the
sheath. There is only 3” of grip surface to grab above the
clip and three-quarters of an inch of that is sheath. I have a
number of knives intended for boot carry and all allow easy
access to the handle. The Secure-ex sheath negates any fast
draw of the knife. The Secure-Ex Sheath falls short, in my
opinion, for adequate access to the knife handle. Although the
Cold Steel Peace Maker III itself gets a 4-star rating from
me, the Secure-Ex Sheath is a -1.
The Cold Steel Peace Maker
III In the Hand
For my purposes; however, the Cold Steel Peace Maker III is a
good knife; it is light and compact enough to fit into a
pocket in my “operator’s bag” or be attached to one of the
straps with a suitable retainer. The Cold Steel Peace Maker
III fills a role more as a general purpose utility knife than
as a boot knife.
The Cold Steel Peace Maker III is available through Amazon.com
(http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-20PBS-Peace-Maker/dp/B00BD56
SWA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417104011&sr=8-1&keywords=Cold+Ste
el+Peace+Maker+III) at a price of $19.15 and other fine
stores.
Am I Right to Shoot Left,
Part 2
The Left-Handed
Operator
Long
Gun
In part one of this series, I wrote about some things that a
right-handed long gun shooter had to consider when
transitioning to left side operations. Specifically, these
were safety operation and expended case ejection. While these
are not negatives, they do indicate a learning process that
takes place and certain things the operator has to master.
In part two, I want to address a few advantages to the righthanded operator of right-handed longs guns when fired from the
weak (left) side; loading, manual operations (lever, bolt,
pump, and semi-automatic), and unloading while also pointing
out a few disadvantage.
LOADING:
If you plan to shoot, you must plan to load the firearm at
some time before attempting to do so. (Dry firing is not
shooting and loading the firearm during a dry-firing session
is a no-no!).
The following is some observations that I have made during my
transition to left-handed shooting of long guns.
Lever Guns:
Loading the Lever-Action
Rifle Through the Loading
Gate
Most, but not all, rifle-caliber lever-action rifles are
loaded from the right side (the Henry lever-action rifle is
one exception). Loading is accomplished by inserting the
cartridge through a spring-loaded side-gate, which leads to a
tube that houses multiple cartridges. Lever guns most always
allow a single cartridge to be loaded from the top or side
ejection port before loading the feed tube or after the last
round in the feed tube has been fired. The lever is simply
pulled down to move the bolt to the rear and expose the
chamber, a cartridge is inserted into the receiver, and then
can be chambered by pulling or pushing up on the lever until
the cartridge is fully chambered and the breech is locked by
the bolt. Subsequent loading of the magazine can follow – or
not.
For the left-handed shooter, loading is all done by the right
hand – the weak hand. For the right-handed shooter operating
the long gun on the weak side, all loading is done with the
right hand with the left hand (the weak hand) usually
supporting the rifle by the forearm or stock. For the righthanded person, loading is more positive as we would normally
have more dexterity with our strong hand than with the weak
hand.
Note that I can top off the magazine, if needed, while keeping
the rifle shouldered. Try that while shooting a lever-action
rifle right-handed while keeping the rifle shouldered.
Bolt-Action Long guns:
WW1 Bolt-Action Loading
Bolt-action long guns can be loaded through the top or through
a boxed magazine. Many hunting bolt-action rifles have
internal magazines that have to be loaded from the top. The M1
Garand is but one example of a military firearm that require
top loading. Some bolt-action rifles incorporate hinged, drop
magazines that require loading from the top but which can be
released to facilitate unloading. There are also hunting and
other bolt-action rifles and shotgun that are “boxed magazine
fed”; whereas a removable box magazine is inserted into the
firearm to facilitate automatic feeding.
Bolt-Action Loading
In most, but not all cases, the bolt-action rifle or shotgun
may allow top feeding as well; allowing the magazine to be
loaded from the top of the rifle through the receiver.
As with the lever gun, for the left-handed shooter, this is
all done by the right hand – the weak hand. For the righthanded shooter operating the long gun on the weak side, all
loading is done with the right hand with the left hand (the
weak hand) usually supporting the rifle by the forearm or
stock. For the right-handed person, loading is more positive
as we would normally have more dexterity with our strong hand
than with the weak hand. That’s not to say that only the right
hand can be used to load the firearm, it is to say that righthanded loading is the more commonly used method.
Manually-Operated Shotguns:
Loading the Remington 870
Shotgun
Shotguns can be loaded through the breech-end (for example,
double-barreled shotguns), the receiver as with single-shot
shotguns, from a feed tube, or from a magazine. Again, the
most commonly used hand is the right hand for loading. Again,
this is an advantage for the right-handed person shooting from
the left side.
Semi-Automatic Long Guns:
Loading the SKS – Note the
right-handed operation. This
is reversed when shooting
left-handed.
Semi-automatic long guns commonly chamber ammunition via a
magazine; top, side, or bottom with the bottom magazine being
more predominate among modern firearms. The M1 Garand’s
magazine is loaded by using en bloc clips (see the M1 Garand
write up that follows). The SKS rifle’s magazine is loaded
through the use of “Stripper” clips while the M14 and M1A,
although loaded via removable “box” magazines, allow loading
of the magazines through the top of the action, as does the
Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 rifles.
Side-eject rifles, as with AR-based and AK-based long guns,
are magazine fed but do allow for the loading of a single
round through the receiver (assuming that there is something
in place to prevent the round from falling out of the bottom
of the rifle) or directly into the breech (bolt open, of
course).
While some rifles allow the insertion of a magazine with
either left or right hand, right handed insertion remains the
predominate method. Again, this benefits the right-handed
person shooting from the left side. In the case of the ARbased rifle, the strong thumb pushes the magazine release
while the fingers of the strong hand grips the magazine,
removes it, and replaces the empty magazine with a loaded
magazine.
Loading the M1 Garand with
En Bloc Clips
The M1 Garand is an interesting beast to load. Some folks are
agile enough to load the M1 Garand without becoming victim to
the “M1 Thumb.” That is where you carry about 11.3 pounds of
military rifle with your thumb after the bolt pins it between
the bolt and the chamber. I don’t know of anyone who has done
this for fun. I have been fortunate in my experience while
loading the M1 Garand.
With the bolt locked to the rear, a fully-loaded en block clip
is inserted into the receiver but not forced all of the way in
until the meaty part of my right hand firmly holds the bolt
handle in place. Once I am in position on the bolt handle with
my right hand, the thumb of the right thumb finishes inserting
the en bloc and its contents fully into the rifle. At which
point the thumb is withdrawn from the receiver first as the
right hand release the bolt. The left hand supports the front
of the firearm throughout the loading process. If, for some
reason, the bolt does not slam forward, a simply slap of the
bolt handle with the palm of my right hand closes the deal.
(It also works for throat strikes.)
The M1A is not difficult to load, but I have to un-shoulder
the firearm to do so, as the left wrist is just not strong
enough to support the eight or nine pounds of the rifle while
wrestling an old magazine out of the well and a inserting a
freshly loaded magazine back into it. From a right-handed
shooting position, I had no problem supporting the rifle while
changing out the magazine left handed. When shooting lefthanded; however, I have to bring the rifle down and rest it on
my hip or upper body while I change out the magazine right
handed.
MANUAL OPERATIONS:
It should be obvious that operating a long gun from the left
side differs from operating that same long gun from the right
side – or does it? For the right-handed person shooting from
the weak side, teh experience is different, but is easy to get
used to.
Lever Guns:
Levers on lever guns can be operated with either hand;
however, they do tend to favor operation with whatever hand is
on the stock of the rifle or shotgun while the support hand
remains on the forearm. There is a reason for this; actually
several reasons. When the hand is operating the lever, the
trigger finger is away from the trigger. Secondly, the shooter
loses all support of the firearm while the lever is being
operated if the opposite hand is used to operate the lever –
what used to be supporting the rifle is now operating the
action; it just does not work well that way.
There is no advantage of the lever gun to the right hand
shooter unless you operate the rifle right-handed. For lefthanded shooting, use the left hand to operate the lever,
Bolt-Action Long Guns:
The bolt on right-handed bolt–action long guns can be operated
with either the left or right hand regardless of the side they
are being operated from. As a right-handed left side shooter,
I have learned to work the bolt left-handed and right-handed.
Using the right hand, for me, is the faster of the two means.
I like using the right hand to operate the bolt for two
reasons; it is faster and I can better protect myself from
ejected brass (see part 1). I developed a method of bolt
operation using my right hand and here it is:
With
the
left
hand
supporting the rifle, theT h e
entire
strong
hand
strong hand (right) movesp u s h e s t h e
rearward and positions theupward.
bolt handle between the
thumb and the rest of the
hand.
bolt
handle
When the bolt handle is
clear
of
its
locking
position, the hand pulls theThe hand rotates forward
b o l t t o t h e r e a r , w h i c hwhile using the base of the
cocks the rifle and ejectst h u m b t o p u s h t h e b o l t
the expending case. The handforward; the next round is
flares outward slightly tostripped from the magazine
protect the face from errantand is fed into the chamber.
When lock-up is felt, the
flying brass.
base of the thumb pushes the
bolt handle downward to
complete the lock up of the
bolt…
…and then moves forward to
its support position on the
forearm of the rifle.
1. With the left hand supporting the rifle, the strong hand
(right) moves rearward and positions the bolt handle
between the thumb and the rest of the hand.
2. The entire strong hand pushes the bolt handle upward.
3. When the bolt handle is clear of its locking position,
the hand pulls the bolt to the rear, which cocks the
rifle and ejects the expending case. The hand flares
outward slightly to protect the face from errant flying
brass.
4. The hand rotates forward while using the base of the
thumb to push the bolt forward; the next round is
stripped from the magazine and is fed into the chamber.
5. When lock-up is felt, the base of the thumb pushes the
bolt handle downward to complete the lock up of the bolt
and then moves forward to its support position on the
forearm of the rifle.
Using this method, the right hand is always in contact with
the bolt and helps to support the firearm while the left hand
pulls the rifle into the shoulder.
I will note that using the left-handed cross-over method works
better for me when shooting bolt-action rifles of substantial
weight and when I don’t have support (for example, a rifle
rest) in the front of the rifle (for example; military rifles
like the Enfield, Springfield, and Mosins and some scoped
hunting rifles).
Pump-Action Long Guns:
Pump-action long guns (rifles and shotguns) lend themselves
well to the right-handed operator shooting right-handed long
gun left-handed. Support and trigger operation of the pumpaction rifle/shotgun with the weaker left hand is evident
throughout the cycling of the pump handle. I don’t know if I
am any faster than operating the firearm right-handed, but
operating the pump handle right handed feels more natural to
me.
Semi-Automatic Long Guns:
With few exceptions, Semi-automatic firearms have been the
easiest for me to transition from right-handed to left-handed
shooting. The exceptions include the M1 Garand and M1A. While
the weight of these firearms are not a problem, supporting
that weight while trying to release the bolt handle is. With
the front of the rifle supported (rifle rest or otherwise), I
can release the bolt easily enough with my right hand or by
using the left-hand crossover method as long as the bolt is to
the rear. While just supporting the rifle with just the right
hand, pulling and releasing the bolt with the left hand is
just not an easy thing to watch let alone experience.
UNLOADING:
As with loading and operating any firearm, unloading a firearm
must exercise the same caution and safety.
As with any unloading procedure, the basic rules of gun safety
are followed – always.
Lever Guns:
For most lever-action rifles, I normally set the safety to the
on position, point the muzzle in a safe direction, and work
the lever until all rounds are removed from the action and the
magazine tube. Then the tube is inspected to ensure that all
cartridges have been removed.
For lever-action rifles with a feed tube arrangement like the
Marlin 39A or Henry rifles, I follow the manufacture’s
recommendations:
1. To unload the magazine and chamber, place the hammer in
the safe (down) position.
With the rifle pointing upward, completely withdraw the
inner magazine tube from the gun.
2. Tip the gun downward, allowing the cartridges to slide
out into a suitable container.
Replace the inner magazine tube.
3. Open the action again, making sure there are no
cartridges in the chamber or receiver.
Note that I unload (work the lever or remove the inner
feed tube) with my strong hand and leave the left hand
supporting the rifle away from the trigger.
Bolt-Action Long guns:
Bolt action long guns are unloaded using the left hand to
support the rifle.
1. The safety is placed in the safe position. With threeposition safeties, the safety is placed in the position
that allows removal of the bolt but keeps the trigger
from operating.
2. With the left hand supporting the firearm, the right
hand opens the bolt and allows it to move rearward; any
expended case is ejected from the firearm.
If the rifle has a magazine, the magazine is removed. If
the rifle has a hinged magazine floor plate, the floor
plate is released to remove cartridges from the
magazine.
3. In cases where the rifle has a fixed magazine, the bolt
is cycled until no more cartridges are present in the
magazine.
With bolt-action long gun, the unloading process is no
different from unloading from my right side
Pump and Semi-automatic Shotguns:
For shotguns (pump or semi-automatic) is no different from
unloading from my right side.
1. The safety is placed in safe mode.
2. The shell retainer in the feed tube is pushed to release
each shell one at a time until all shells are removed
from the feed tube.
3. The action is cycled to the rear; any round in the
chamber is expended.
4. The feed tube and chamber are inspected one more time.
Semi-Automatic Long Guns (except semi-automatic shotguns):
As with other types of action, unloading is done from the
right side with the left hand supporting the firearm.
1. The safety is locked into the safe position.
2. The bolt is pulled rearward and locked into place;
expended or live rounds are ejected from the rifle.
3. The magazine is removed.
For rifles with hinged floor plates, the floor plate is
released to allow any rounds to drop out of the rifle.
Unloading the M1 Garand With
En Bloc Clips
Unloading the M1 Garand provides a bit of a challenge, as
removal of the en bloc clip requires a little different
process.
On the left side of the receiver, there is a button. The left
thumb is going to push the button as the right hand pulls the
bolt all the ways to the rear. Any round in the chamber will
be ejected at this point.
While holding in the bolt to the rear, the left button is
pushed. This releases the en bloc clip that contains the
cartridges; the en bloc clip will pop up and out of the rifle
(in most cases). The bolt is locked back at this point and if
the en bloc clip did not totally pop out of the rifle, the
right (or left) hand can remove the en bloc and its contents
without worrying about the dreaded “M1 Thumb.”
SUMMARY:
Shoot Lefty to Develop New
Shooting Skills for RIghtHanded Shooters
The transition from shooting long guns right-handed to left
side has been a great learning experience. With the exception
of what finger pulls the trigger, most operations are
accomplished with the right hand. The transition has not been
that difficult.
While I tried not to go into great detail with this part (and
part 1), I did realize that some detail had to be presented to
provide a true picture of what shooting left-handed for a
right-handed person entails.
Some left-handed shooters may take exception to some of my
observations and I welcome your inputs. This write-up was not
intended to misinform, but to simply share my observations
during my transition to left-handed shooting.
I have taken too much of your time already and I appreciate
that you did take the time to read this article. Hopefully,
you will begin a partial transition to shooting left-handed if
you are a right-handed person since you now know that it is
really not that difficult to do.
Product Review – UTG DS3068
6.4-Inch ITA Red/Green Dot
Sight
UTG DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA
Red/Green Dot Sight with
Integral QD Mount and Flipopen Lens Caps
I have been wanting to change out the current CQB sight on my
WW “SCR” with a better sight. The current sight is not bad,
but it lacked the dot illumination adjustment that I desire. I
found it in the UTG DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA Red/Green Dot Sight.
The key feature of the sight was the variable intensity
adjustment. Rather than being a “step” adjustment, the UTG
DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA Red/Green Dot Sight features more of a
rheostat adjustment; whereas, you can turn the intensity
adjustment knob until the correct degree of intensity is
reached according to your shooting light situation. I found
that with most illuminated dot sights that the lowest setting
was still too bright for indoor shooting conditions – even
that at a well-lighted indoor range.
From
the
product
description,
there
is
the
following
information:
Features:
4.0 MOA dot sight
Lo-reflection high tech emerald coatings
Low-profile, integral, one-piece quick detach
Picatinny/weaver mount
Red or green dot
Patterned illumination rheostat with variable brightness
levels
Aim and instant lock on target
Suits a wide range of shotguns and rifles
Two year warranty
Specifications:
Magnification: 1X
Tube Diameter: 30 millimeters
Objective Diameter: 34 millimeters
Field of View @ 100 yards: 60 feet
Eye Relief: Flexible
Exit Pupil: 28 millimeters
Click Value @100 yards: 1/2 inch
Length: 163 millimeters
Weight: 6.7 ounces
Parallax Setting: Infinity
Batteries: CR1620 3V
The unit is well-constructed and the finish is excellent.
The sight mount is a one-piece quick detach Picatinny/weaver
mount with four hex-head screws used for the sight itself. Two
quick-detachable levers hold the sight firmly in place once
the proper tension is achieved by adjusting the hex-head set
screws. According to the manufactures, “The optimal tension is
achieved when the side plate first makes contact with the
Picatinny rail while the Cam Lever still has enough travel
left for you to securely snap into its locking position.”
The unit comes with the following:
Three hex head wrenches
One hex head set screw
Two CR1620 3V batteries
One lens cloth
Suitable
Mounting
for
Shotgun
The flip-up lens covers seem to work fine for me, but there
have been complaints about the front flip unit pushing off of
the sight when attempting to release the cover. The covers
snap well into place and release with a flick of the thumb.
While they are fine when the sight is close to the eyes, I
don’t prefer them mounted when the sight is forward mounted,
such as on a scout rifle or when mounted on a pistol. All I
want to see is the target and the dot. For my purposes, I’ll
probably replace these covers with an alternative (see my
review
of
Scope
Shields
@
http://guntoters.com/blog/2014/11/22/product-review-scopeshiel
d/)
Double-Lock Turrets and
Finger-Turn Adjustment
Knob
Elevation and windage adjustment are of the “double-lock
turret” type; the dot adjustments lock in with two set screws
(the smallest hex-head wrench in the set). The adjustment
turrets are; however, finger adjustable. Adjustment is in ½” @
100 yards per click increments. To make adjustments, the two
set screws are backed out approximately ¼ turn (it is
recommended by the manufacturer that the locking screws are
backed out no more than ¼ turn). Once the sight is correctly
aligned at the desired POA, the set screws are then tightened
to hold the turret in place (do not over-tighten; they are
easy to over tighten). The adjustment knob detents for are
crisp and the adjustment knobs are easily turned.
The unit comes with excellent instruction for adjusting the
various types of sights
The intensity adjustment housing also serves to house a CR1620
3V battery. The battery cap incorporates a seal to prevent
moisture from entering the adjustment housing. The intensity
knob is used to select the color of the dot (red or green).
The unit mounts with the intensity knob facing the left side
of the firearm. One has to careful when rotating the intensity
knob in the counter-clockwise direction (toward the muzzle) as
the battery cover could loosen. In turning the intensity knob
in the counter-clockwise direction, you also select the
brightest illumination setting for the re/green dot.
The sight was quickly mounted on two UTG Low Profile Riser 3slot
Mounts
(http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Profile-Riser-Mount-slots/dp/B003TW
ZFOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416675237&sr=8-1&keywords=UTG+low
+profile+sight+mount) that, in turn, attach to the Picatinney
rail of the WW “SRC.” While I can use the rear BUS with the
sight in place, a flip of the mounting levers allow the sight
to be remove quickly to go strictly to BUS. This type of rail
arrangement also allows me to mount a more powerful tactical
scope, if needed.
The UTG DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA
Red/Green Dot Sight mountedUTG Low Profile Riser Mount
on the WW “SRC” via two UTGwith 3 slots
Low Profile Riser Mount with
3 slots
The sight was bore sighted on the WW “SRC” at home using a
laser bore sighter and was close enough to warrant only minor
adjustments to place the 55-grain .223 bullet’s POI where I
wanted it at 25-yards for a 100-yard zero (the range’s
limitations and not mine).
Since I prefer the green dot over the red dot, I have set the
intensity adjustment to turn on the green dot while rotating
the intensity adjustment clockwise (toward the shooter). In
doing so, I select the lowest setting for the green dot and
the intensity increases as the knob is rotated rearward. This
also prevents the battery cover from loosening. The same can
be said for the red dot when selected.
The dot is 4 MOA and is crisp. With that said, the dot is
somewhat flared due to the astigmatism in my left eye but was
still crisp enough to do the job at 25-yards.
UTG DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA
Red/Green Dot Sight Mounted
on the Ruger Gunsite Scout
The sight has held up well for the WW “SRC”, though I have not
tried it under the recoil of the .308 caliber round.
From my evaluation so far, the UTG DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA
Red/Green Dot Sight with Integral QD Mount and Flip-open Lens
Caps is an excellent value for the money.
UPDATE 09/22/2015:
Sight Mounted On the Beretta
CX4 Storm
Aside from being used on the Windham Weaponry “SRC” the UTG
DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA Red/Green Dot Sight, additional sights
were mounted on a Ruger AR556 and a Beretta CX4 Storm. The
existing QD sight mounts were exchanged with a set of Warne
High Profile 30mm scope rings, which provided just the right
height for the sight to co-witness the mechanical sights. With
the Beretta CX4 Storm, the sight was perfect as is and allows
a near perfect co-witness with the CX4 Storm’s flip sights.
The sight has also found a place on a Mossberg 20-gauge
tactical shotgun after installing the requisite rail. So far,
the sight has performed flawlessly even under full recoil from
5/8-ounce slugs. As with the Beretta CX4 Storm, no riser or
ring change was necessary.
RESOURCES:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HIFS8A/ref=oh_aui_detailp
age_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Product Review – Scopeshield
Flip This!
When I evaluate a product it is the result of owning that
product and then using it. There are no sponsors so my
opinions are not presented to satisfy anyone. I hope that they
do help in the decision making process most of us use before
buying something.
The Scopeshield product was one of those “I didn’t know that I
needed it until I found it” moments.
Can Be Used for Makeshift
Sling Shot
Doesn’t Work For Me!
Scopeshield Black
Scopeshield
Camo
Scopeshield in Brown Camo
Scopeshield in Green Camo
One of the Scopeshield
Patriotic Series
Scopeshield
Gray
Digital
Digital
Camo
Cover on the Ruger Gunsite
Scout
I like to protect my firearm investments. I don’t think that
you are any different in that respect. While none of my
firearms could be considered “High End” I do consider all of
them worthy of my attention to ensure they are going to run
when I need them – even a “beater” firearm.
In most cases, my long guns reside in Bore Stores. I used to
keep the long guns in silicon-treated gun socks, and while
adequate, I always felt that I could do better and Bore Stores
has become my “go-to” product for rifles, shotguns, and a few
handguns. I realized lately that the use of one product was
leading to another.
I have several rifles and pistols that are scoped. As with my
long guns, the optics mounted on them are not high-end
products. However, and like my firearms, they are worthy of my
protection since I do rely on them to get whatever mail is
being sent downrange on target. Normally, optics are stored on
the firearms while they are in the Bore Stores. My issue is
not with the optics, but with the protective lens covers that
normally come with the optics.
Lens covers obviously protect the lens of the optic. Lens
covers come in a variety of types from flip-up to rubber or
plastic cups. The flip-up style of lens protection is very
popular. Although I do agree that they protect the lens of the
optic, I am not a fan of them. I am also not a fan of the
“cup” type of lens protector, which is usually a plastic or
rubber cup of some sort for each end of the optic with a cord
or rubber band providing tension for them while mounted on the
optic. Open-view optics usually has a cover that slips over
the optic to provide protection from damage. I have no problem
with these as much as I do with “barrel” optics lens covers
such as those provided with or purchased for scopes and dot
sights.
I had researched and selected several scope covers for
evaluation. While they all worked, they added bulk to the
optic and I found myself putting them in my pocket or on the
bench while I shot the firearm. Scope cover sizes varied from
short to extra-long and I took a SWAG when ordering them.
Then, I came across the Scopeshield product line of scope
covers. While I understand the need to protect the lenses of
optical products, I also feel the need to protect the optic
itself.
The Scopeshield line of scope covers have several features
that I like:
Rear loop easy to grab and pull
Front loop keeps cover attached
Neopreme cushions and protects
Cover stretches for snug fit
Remove silently and quickly
Scopeshield
Sizes
When using the flip-up style of lens protectors on a regular
hunting scope or a barrel dot-style of sight, I do tend to use
my finger to push a release button or flip the lens cover up
to release the covers. The lens covers are not in the way when
mounted on a hunting scope or a barrel dot-style of sight when
close to the sighting eye. However, I find the flip-up style
of lens covers irritating to me when mounted on a LER scope or
a forward-mounted barrel dot-style of sight. I usually just
remove them altogether and replace them after the shooting
session is done.
The Scopeshield line of scope covers have a front loop that
keeps cover attached to the rifle. I can simply pull back on
the rear loop, lift the unit from the scope or sight, and
either let it hang from the rifle or press it against the
forearm. There is no misplacing the cover. To replace it on
the scope or sight, I simply place the end over the optic,
pull the rear tab, and cover the entire optic. There is no
muss and no fuss. The Scopeshield scope cover fits snugly and
is held firmly in place.
I ordered scope covers that were slightly less than the total
length of the scope. The Neoprene material of the scope cover
stretches nicely and will even fit over existing lens covers
should I decide to keep them in place for extra protection.
The SS6, 7-85″ Scopeshield
fits the UTG CQB Red/Green
Dot Sight Nicely on thisPull the Rear Tab of the
Scopeshield to Take It Off
Windham “SRC”
or to Put It On.
The large front loop is adequate to fit around even the A4
hand guard of an AR-style long gun and does not interfere with
the operation of the firearm. Removal of the sling is
necessary with most rifles and using quick-detachable sling
swivels make the process of installing or removing the scope
cover easy. Since the front loop is somewhat large, it could
be possible to snag the loop on something (for example, lowlying tree branches). To prevent snagging, simply hold the
loop against the forearm with your support hand.
I like the Scopeshield line of scope covers. They provide an
extra measure of protection for the optic when the rifle is
cased or stored in a safe and when taking the firearm through
heavy brush. The Scopeshield is also excellent on pistol
optics of the barreled kind; I have one on my scoped Ruger
Charger with a bipod mounted.
You can check out the complete line of Scopeshield products at
https://scopeshieldcover.com/
and
also
Amazon.com
(http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps
&field-keywords=scopeshield)
Here
is
a
good
video
on
the
Scopeshield:
https://scopeshieldcover.com/content/how-use-your-scopeshield
Am I Right to Shoot Left (or
am I just left of correct)?
The magic happens right before our eyes – or so it seems when
shooting a right-handed long gun left-handed.
The Left-handed Shooter
I am right-handed and right eye dominant. For the majority of
life I have handled and shot firearms intended for the righthanded shooter. That changed about ten years ago when an
accident forced me rethink my shooting side choices for long
guns, especially those in rifle caliber and most especially
shotguns. The accident left me with an injury that mitigated
my shooting heavy-recoiling long guns right handed. At first,
the switch to left-handed shooting was awkward but, being an
optimist, I looked on the positive side. I had operated
handguns left handed before (and still do to keep the
familiarity with doing so alive), but long guns were a
different story.
A Lot of Lessons To Be
Learned from Shooting Lefthanded
To those who already shoot right-handed long guns left-handed,
the content of this article will not be new to you. To those
right-handers who have considered augmenting your already fine
skills with a long gun by shooting left-handed, some
information contained in this article might help with the
transition and help you become aware of some of the
differences that lie in shooting long guns designed for the
right-handed shooter from the weak side. I’ll bring to light
two topics; safeties and ejection of spent cartridge cases.
Safeties:
AR-15 Safety Selector – Left
Marlin
Safety
Post-86
Cross-Bolt
Side of Lower Assembly
Mossberg’s Top Safety
Rossi R92 Top Safety
Lever
Remington 870 Safety
Remington 700 Tactical
Safety Lever
Ruger Gunsite Scout Safety
SKS Safety Lever
Mosin Nagant Safety – Pull
and Turn
M1A Safety Lever
Side Ejection From the AR
The Only Two Safeties to be
Really Concerned About = The
Brain That Controls Them
Pump Action Ejection
Serious “In Your Face”
Double-Barrel Shotgun
Ejection
The Ejector Can Be Part ofBolt-Action Ejection
the Bolt or Fixed Within the
Receiver.
Another Example of Double-
Top Ejection! Didn’t
See That One Coming,
Did ya?
Barreled Ejection Action. I
hope that the Shooter is not
Watching!
It is important to know how safeties work, at least from the
aspect of engaging and disengaging one. Transitioning from
shooting long guns right-handed to left-handed brings a new
challenge to the operator; training the weak hand to do things
the strong hand used to.
Top mounted safeties, like those found on the Mossberg
shotguns are no problem, as they are usually within reach of
the thumb of the shooting hand – regardless of the hand.
Remington safeties are located just behind the trigger. For
the left-handed operator, the safety will operate just the
opposite of what the right-handed operator experiences; left
to engage and right to disengage (Fire). A right-handed
operator would simply use the thumb of the shooting hand to
place the safety in the firing position (push to right). When
shooting a right-handed shotgun from the weak side; however,
the shooter uses the index finger (the shooting finger) to
disengage the safety. At first, this can be confusing, but is
quickly learned through practice. Doing it under stress;
however, takes a lot of practice since the left-hand has never
been taught to operate a safety and the muscle memory is just
not there.
The safety on a rifle or carbine can be just about anywhere;
top, side, or front. The Rossi series of lever-action rifles
have a safety mounted on top of the rifle. For bolt-action
hunting rifles, the safety may be on top or on the right rear
of the bolt. The M1A incorporates a safety just forward of the
trigger and centered in the trigger housing. AR-based rifles
normally mount the safety on the left side of the receiver.
Marlin lever-action rifles have incorporated a cross-bolt
safety behind the trigger since 1984.
Learning to push a cross-bolt safety (like on the Marlin) has
been an easy transition for me; simply use the trigger finger
to push the safety off. It is actually faster than righthanded operation where the thumb pushes the safety off.
The flip-lever safety on AR-based rifles ; however, I still
have not comfortable with. When in the military, I fired the
M16 right-handed using the thumb to engage and disengage the
safety. My mind is telling my left thumb to do the same thing,
but the safety is not there. I am having an ambidextrous
safety installed on my AR for safety’s sake (pun not intended)
because my thumb keeps wanting to operate it. I find it
awkward to use my trigger finger to operate the lever safety.
Handling Extraction and Ejection:
Perhaps the most disconcerting thing for left-handed shooters
operating long guns designed for right handed shooters is
shell ejection. With bottom-eject long guns, shell ejection is
not a problem since the shells are ejected downward. For the
majority of long guns, ejection of a spent cartridge is to the
right of the firearm (even for top-eject firearms like leveraction rifles modeled after the Winchester). To the righthanded shooter, this means that flying brass and debris is
away from the face. When operating a right-handed gun from the
left side, ejection of a spent shell is in front of the face.
This is especially true with semi-automatic shotguns and
rifles that eject hot shells and debris at high rates of
speed. Manually operated firearms like lever-action, pump-
action, and bolt-action firearms offer an advantage over semiautomatic rifles and shotguns in that the ejection port of the
firearm can be manually moved away from the shooter’s face
prior to cycling the action. However, and in most cases, the
firearm remains shouldered while the operator manually cycles
the action and the magic happens right before our eyes –
literally.
Which leads us to, in OSHA-speak, “Hazardous Energy Control.”
To prevent the release of hazardous energy the operator must
take steps to verify that the energy has been isolated
effectively. As firearms operators we isolate the source of
energy by manually closing the bolt or allowing the firearm to
close the bolt for us automatically. We control the majority
of the hazardous energy by the trigger. Once the energy is
unleashed, resulting in two stages of recoil, the hazardous
energy is either, (1) isolated in a locked breech, or (2) used
to unlock the breech automatically.
Let’s talk about the first case; isolation in a locked breech.
When all of the hazardous energy is expelled out of the
barrel, we can safely remove the expended case from the
chamber. Extraction of the expended case is accomplished in
two ways; top extraction or side extraction. As the bolt is
pushed or pulled rearward, the extractor pulls the expended
case from the chamber. At some point in the removal process,
an ejector ejected the case from the firearm. The ejector may
be part of the bolt or fixed in the receiver. The ejectors job
is self-explanatory; eject the expended case from the firearm
so that a new cartridge can be loaded (either manually, or
automatically). The angle of ejection is important as is the
speed in which the expended case is ejected. Weak ejection can
cause the expended case to fly more to the rear of the
firearm. For the left-handed operator, that means more toward
the face rather than away from. For manually operated long
guns this means that the operator must operator must move the
lever, bolt handle, or pump forearm to the rear with authority
and as quickly as possible to ensure proper ejection of the
expended case. In performing this operation, it is important
to know where one’s face is located in relationship to the
path of the bolt and the path of ejection.
1. Note #1: Do not use any part of your face to impede the
bolt’s rearward movement. There are accommodations for
stopping a bolt’s rearward movement in the design of the
firearm and it works quite well without your facial
assistance.
2. Note#2: Keep you head as close to the stock as possible.
Do not use any part of your head to impede the expended
case’s progress. Case ejection is three-dimensional and
in varying degrees; up, back, and right.
3. Note #3: Wear protective eye wear – always.
4. Note #4: Wear head protection. With a baseball cap (brim
forward), the brim is useful in deflecting low, inside
ejected cases. Sombreros are not useful in this respect
nor are most cowboy hats.
5. Note #5: During the expended case’s ejection cycle,
slightly tilt the top of the rifle (or shotgun) to the
right. This changes the direction of ejection more away
the operator.
6. Note #6: Keep the face as low on the stock as possible.
In most cases, this is adequate to keep your head from
interfering with the ejected case’s path.
7. Note #7: For double-barreled shotgun operators using an
automatic ejection system, dismount the shotgun and tilt
the shotgun to the left when unlocking the breech. The
expended shells will normally clear the shotgun and you.
8. Note #8: When shooting a bolt-action rifle left handed,
you will normally use the right hand to operate the bolt
(although some use the left-hand, crossover technique).
Use you right hand to your advantage to help against
being hit with flying brass.
In point #2, where hazardous energy releases the bolt (semi-
automatic or fully automatic operation), we really do not have
a choice as to when an expended case ejects from the firearm.
The force of the bolt moving rearward during semi-automatic or
fully automatic operation is many times greater than we, as
operators, can muster when moving a bolt rearward manually.
The speed and angle of ejection in semi-automatic or fully
automatic firearms usually comes down to the speed of which
the bolt is moved rearward and how much buffer (gas regulation
and/or spring(s)) is used to slow the movement. Moreover, the
speed and angle of ejection can vary according to the
ammunition used in the firearm.
Note #2 through #6 applies when running semi-automatic and
fully automatic firearms when shouldered properly. For those
of you who like shooting from the hip – you are on your own.
I would be remiss by not sharing with you the times that I
have been hit with hot, ejected cases out of a firearm; some
out of my own firearms, some out of others, some from bouncing
off a wall in a firing lane at an indoor range. While not
many, they have been aggravating. Only one could have resulted
in injury had it not been for shooting glasses. With that
said, I have to state that I have been hit with more flying
brass while shooting semi-automatic pistols than I have with
long guns – regardless of which hand is holding them and which
is the primary reason for my modified “Weaver” stance when
shooting handguns. The second reason is the easy transition
from a rifle or shotgun stance to a handgun stance. However, I
digress.
Summary:
Shoot Lefty to Develop New
Shooting Skills for RIghtHanded Shooters
Well, there you have it. The primary peril that left-handed
shooters of right-handed long guns have to endure is hazardous
energy by ejected cases. Some may say, “Learn to shoot righthanded or purchase a left-handed rifle or shotgun!” For most,
that may be the answer. For the very few, like myself, who
when shooting right-handed experiences great pain when
shooting long guns of substantial caliber and gauge, I don’t
mind adding to my shooting skills by learning an offhand
method of shooting; it is so much more pleasurable in my mind
– and shoulder.
Scouting Around – Part I
.308 Winchester
Take a proven cartridge, for example the .308 Winchester (or
7.62×51 NATO) and then stick that cartridge into the chamber
of a rifle weighing about 7-pounds dry with a 18” barrel and
you have most of the equation for Jeff Cooper’s definition of
a “Scout Rifle.” Now, adding that the rifle is to be a boltaction with a boxed magazine, the definition takes on more
character. Lastly, add a forward-mounted optic and the
equation is near completion.
When I first started this review, it was hard to come up with
things about the Ruger Gunsite Scout (herein referred to as
the RGS) rifle that hasn’t been written about, videoed or
otherwise discussed in various forums and articles. To tell
you the truth, it is still hard to come with something new
even with trying to compare the RGS against its competition;
and there are many to include factory built and home-built
versions. Simply put, I can’t provide a comparison with other
“Scout rifles” since I don’t have access to those “other”
rifles. What I can do is tell you my honest opinion of the RGS
in my usual non-succinct manner.
If you wish to do some reading about those “other” Scout
rifles,
here
is
a
great
link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scout_rifle. Feel free to read
about them and come back to read what I have to say.
Ruger Gunsite Scout Model
6822
I happened across the opportunity to purchase the Ruger Model
6822 RGS through a trade-in at a local gun shop. I had always
been interested in one since they came out in 2011 but, at
that time, only a blued; 16” version was all to be had. I
liked the “Scout” rifle concept and even built a pseudo scout
rifle out of one of my Mosin 91/30 rifles. The overall length
of the Mosin “Scout”; however, exceeds the Jeff Cooper limit
of 36” because I decided not to shorten the barrel; a decision
that I do not regret. When the stainless 18” version of the
RGS came out, my interest was again peaked but not enough for
me to run right out and get one. Instead, I purchased a Savage
11/111 Trophy Hunter XP hunting package in .308 simply because
I did not own a bolt-action rifle and I thought .308
Winchester cartridges was a good place to start. My do-it-all
rifle before the Savage was an early (pre-cross bolt safety)
Marlin 336 chambered in .30-30. But, let me get back to the
here and now.
Ruger M77 Hawkeye (Laminate)
When you look at the RGS and compare it with other Ruger BA
rifles, the RGS just seems like a tactically-modified M77
Hawkeye. You observation would be pretty close because the RGS
was based on the Ruger M77 “Hawkeye” platform that features a
“Mauser-like” action and is fed from a boxed magazine of 4rounds; a rifle meant for hunting, obviously. Simply put, the
M77 platform was transitioned and re-featured into the RGS
with some guidance of the Gunsite Ranch people. Sturm, Ruger
and company have always been innovative in their own way and
continue to put their twist on things firearm in nature – even
if they don’t always agree with the purists of intentions. In
the case of the RGS, I am glad that they did stray a bit
because I now have their latest rendition of the RGS in .308.
Built Ruger “Tough”
The first thing that I noticed about the RGS was that it is
built heavier than what it looks. In the usual Ruger fashion,
the RGS is robust in appearance and over-built by the nature
of Ruger. Although the rifle only weighs in at 7.10 pounds
dry, you would swear that it is heavier. Overall, the RGS is
nicely balanced neither feeling barrel nor butt-heavy. By
comparison, the SKS weighs 3.85 kg (8 lb 8 oz) dry. With a
full compliment of 10-rounds, the RGS still comes up the
lighter of the two. As another comparison, the SKS is 40
inches in length; whereas the RGS is 39.50″ – 41.00″ in length
depending on what spacers (if any) are used to adjust lengthof-pull. Additionally, the SKS is chambered in 7.62×39, which
is similar in performance with the .30-30 cartridge. The RGS,
on the other hand sends a far more superior round downrange at
greater velocities, a much flatter trajectory, and a much
greater distance with more energy than the .30-30 or 7.62×39.
Getting past the weight, I am going to move to the muzzle end
and work back to the butt of the RGS.
Flash Suppressor:
Removable Flash Suppressor.
Replace with Provided End
Cap or…
One of the most noticeable things on the RGS is the flash
suppressor. Flash suppressors are designed to reduce the
muzzle flash from the weapon to preserve the shooter’s night
vision, usually by diverting the incandescent gases to the
sides, away from the line of sight of the shooter, and to
secondarily reduce the flash visible to the enemy. If the
operator of the RGS does not want the flash suppressor, it can
be removed and replaced with a threaded muzzle protector that
is provided with the RGS (stainless steel model only) or, if
the operator has the proper authorization, a silencer could be
added. For me, the flash suppressor is just fine.
Sights:
Moving rearward slightly, a non-glare and ramped front sight
is protected by two “wings”. The ramped front sight is
serrated to prevent glare and is black. I may paint the front
site my usual “day-glo” orange at a later time, but I have no
problems with it as it is (so far).
Riding the Rail:
Excellent Picatinny Rail for
Mounting Optics
Moving rearward, a Picatinny rail perches atop the graduated
1:10” right-hand twist 18” barrel and provides a mount for a
Long Eye Relief optic that Jeff Cooper included in his “Scout
Rifle” definition. Ruger went a step further; however, and
provides Ruger-patented scope mounts that serves as a resting
place for a receiver-mounted scope; a feature, to me at least,
takes away from the concept of a “scout” rifle but does allow
the operator a choice of scope mountings. Additionally, the
rear scope mount allows the use of the provided ghost ring
adjustable rear aperture sight. My old eyes welcome this type
of sighting system and I’m sure that some young-eyed operators
would welcome them as well. The means to allow three types of
sighting systems is a big plus to me. I’ll discuss my sighting
options later.
Rear Adjustable “Ghost”
Sight. Great for Old
and Young Eyes Alike!
The rear ghost-ring site provides immediate target acquisition
in a clearly defined field. The rear sight; however, cannot be
easily adjusted in the field without the provided 5/64” hex
wrench.
For windage adjustments, here is the procedure:
1. Loosen the Combination Windage Adjustment and Locking
Set Screw (turn it counter-clockwise using a 5/64 hex
wrench) on the side that matches the direction of
intended aperture travel (right side first to move
aperture right, left side first to move aperture left).
Full turns are not required and any portion of a turn is
acceptable. One complete rotation of the hex screw will
move the point of impact approximately 5 inches at 100
yards.
2. Tighten the opposite Windage Adjustment and Locking Set
Screw. The aperture will be pushed and locked up against
the screw that was adjusted in Step
Adjusting for elevation is even more fun:
1. Loosen one of the Combination Windage Adjustment and
Locking Screws one full turn (either one is fine;
however, loosen only one so that the original windage
adjustment is maintained).
2. Adjust the aperture by rotating it in half turn
increments. Rotating the aperture clockwise will move
the aperture down (and therefore the point of impact
down as well). Rotating the aperture counter-clockwise
will move the aperture up (and therefore the point of
impact up). Rotating the aperture a single half turn
(180 degrees) will move the point of impact
approximately 1.25 inches at 100 yards.
3. Tighten the Combination Windage Adjustment and Locking
Screw that was loosened in Step One. The Aperture will
move against the other screw and will be aligned to the
half turn position.
If you desire to remove the rear sight (for example, mounting
a receiver-mounted scope), the rear sight can be quickly
removed through the use of the hex wrench.
Bolt:
A
Bolt
That
Appealing
as
is
Both
it
is
Functional
Moving downward we find the excellent bolt-action operating
system. With a Mauser-type claw extraction system, the bolt
grabs the expended case like your life depends on it – and it
may. A fixed ejector helps getting the expended case out of
the way – and a fine job it does.
Mauser-like
Claw
Shell
Extractor – Befitting of
Ruger’s Ruggedness
The bolt is robustly built and the operating handle is angled
nicely. Although I am a right dominant left-handed long-gun
handler, I have no problem working the bolt with my open-hand
technique – even with gloves. Here is the way I work. My
trigger finger comes off the trigger. My support hand moves
from the forearm and the bolt is placed in the web of my thumb
and shooting finger with the whole hand moving the bolt
upward. All fingers of the bolt hand are pointing upward.
Using the web of my bolt hand, the bolt is pushed to the rear
until the expended round ejects. The bolt hand changes
direction and my thumb pushed the bolt forward chambering the
next round. When the round is chambered, the bolt hand rotates
forward and the thumb, still in an extended position, pushes
the bolt down until it locks into place. The entire hand then
slides from the bolt handle and takes up its support position
on the forearm. The trigger finger has never moved out of its
position alongside the trigger. A simple insertion of the
trigger finger of the shooting hand and I’m ready to fire the
next chambered round.
To remove the bolt, make the firearm safe (remove magazine and
any round that might be in the chamber), push the safety lever
to the middle position, slightly lift the bolt release lever
that is located on the left side of the receiver, and remove
the bolt from the firearm. To install the bolt, lift the bolt
lock lever and simply push the bolt into the receiver with the
safety lever in the center (middle) position.
Stocking Up:
Forearm
Nice!
Checking
–
Grip Checkering – Oh,
so Nice!
The upper assembly is firmly mounted to an excellent black
laminated stock that features some serious checkering in the
gripping areas. I have read that checkering is 28:1 but I’ll
take that as fact as I am not going to sit down and measure
the checkering for want of nothing else to do. The barrel, by
the way, is free-floating. The entire upper is very nicely
matched to the stock. Although Ruger claims the laminated
stock to be black, it seems grayer to my eyes. Hence, the RGS
is now named “Gray Boy.”
Safety:
The three-position safety, although positioned on the right
side of the bolt, presents no problem to this left-handed
shooter. The thumb of the shooting hand can easily run the
safety through all three positions without the hand being
removed from the stock. I like that feature.
The Belly of the Beast:
The Gunsite Logo
on the Grip Cap
Flipping “Gray Boy” on his back, my eyes immediately notice
the Gunsite Scout Rifle and Gunsite logo engraved on the grip
cap (and name roll marked on the receiver). Additionally,
studs for mounting sling swivels; a glass reinforced nylon
trigger guard, and magazine well is part of the undercarriage.
Reading a Magazine:
Just forward of the trigger guard is the magazine release and
is very similar in operation to that found on the Ruger 10/22
and other box magazine rifles. Simply push the magazine
release forward to release the magazine.
One 10-round Steel Magazine
Provided with Rifle
10-Round Polymer Magazine.
Note the Lower Profile as
Compared to the Provided
Steel Magazine
5-round Polymer Magazine –
Very Sleek!
The role of a magazine is simple; make a cartridge readily
available to the operator for insertion into the chamber of
the firearm. The magazine the ships with the rifle has been
the subject of much criticism from gun writers and users
alike. The RGS ships with one 10-round, single-stack
parkerized steel magazine with the rifle. The magazine would
look right at home in a M14 or M1A1 rifle. In the RGS;
however, not so much. Utility role aside, the magazine is just
plain ugly when mounted in the rifle. It does; however, serve
its intended purpose, and reliably so. The provided 10-round
parkerized steel magazine, locks up tight, works well, and
fits loose in the magazine well, which leads to a lot of
rattling. The magazine uses, what looks like, a plastic
magazine follower. I will have to say that it is a well-made
magazine
Polymer vs. Steel: Polymer
Mags Have Protective Cover
Polymer Magazine with
Protective Cover Installed
– Good for Short-term
Storage
Ruger; however, has made available 3-round, 5-round, and 10round glass-reinforced nylon polymer magazines that are
available through Ruger or other outlets. I highly recommend
the polymer magazines for several reasons; cost first and
foremost (the 10-round parkerized steel magazine is nearly $80
through the Ruger website, but can be found for less
elsewhere), a muffled rattle if any, they work, they are
aesthetically pleasing, and they are resistant to the
elements, corrosion and most solvents.
The 10-round parkerized steel magazine is 4.880” at its
highest point; whereas, the polymer magazine is 4.045 at its
highest point. That’s a reduction of 0.835” – greater than
three-quarters of an inch in height!
The 10-round polymer magazine fits nicely in the magazine well
and locks up without question. They are somewhat loose but
they do not rattle like the steel magazine. The steel and
polymer magazines have a removable floor plate for cleaning
the innards. In the polymer magazines, a polymer magazine
follower insure proper alignment of the rounds and a magazine
spring provides enough tension to hold the round against the
feed lips of the magazine. The feed lips are not reinforced;
however, which perhaps removes the possibility of keeping full
magazines if the feed lips are prone to deforming. Steelreinforced feed lips would be desirable. However, of the eight
10-round and two 5-round magazines that I have, none have
exhibited failures of any kind. How well the polymer magazines
will hold up over time and use? Well, only time and use will
tell.
Additionally, the polymer magazine comes with a top cover that
helps to keep dirt and debris out of the magazine – whether
the magazine is filled to capacity or not. Even with a fullyloaded magazine, the top covers are easily installed and
removed.
Personally, I like the 5-round magazines for range use.
Besides, it is a psychological thing; I feel better knowing
that I have loaded four 5-round magazines with a single box of
(20) rounds rather than just two magazines from the same box
of 20.
The magazines are easily loaded from the front once you figure
out the correct method. To load the magazine, align each
cartridge with the bullet forward, press the magazine
follower, or the last cartridge loaded, as you insert a
cartridge from the front and slide it back to the rear of the
magazine. No special loading tools are required.
To install the magazine into the rifle:
1. Hold the magazine at an angle and insert all the way up
into the magazine well.
2. Pull the bottom of the magazine toward the trigger guard
until the magazine latch at the rear of the magazine
well engages. Check to be sure that the magazine is
securely latched into place by pulling down on the
magazine.
To remove the magazine, push and hold the magazine latch
forward as you pull the magazine out of the magazine
well. To minimize the possibility of damage and
malfunctions, do not let the magazine drop to the
ground.
Supposedly, you can load the polymer magazines from the top. I
tried and was unsuccessful simply because I did not want to
put strain on the feed lips. I suppose that it could be done
with some force, but I choose not to and prefer to load the
magazine from the front, as intended by the magazine’s design.
Loading from the top could possibly damage the feed lips since
they are not steel reinforced.
External ribbing reinforces the polymer magazines and provide
a better purchase on the magazine for removal from the
magazine well. They also look more pleasing than the provided
10-round parkerized steel magazine; the magazines look like
they are part of the rifle and blend in well with the rifle’s
lines.
To me, the magazine is a weak link in the rifle – any rifle
that uses one. Whether it is a tube magazine, box magazine,
fixed magazine, or fixed magazine with droppable floor plate,
the magazine must always function flawlessly. Ruger has
provided a reliable magazine for the RGS in keeping with Jeff
Cooper’s vision of the scout rifle and Cooper never stated
that the magazine should look pretty.
Trigger:
The
Ruger
Trigger
LC6
The trigger itself, well, standard factory trigger/sear
engagement is about .035-.045. The RGS incorporates the LC6
trigger mechanism. Ruger states the trigger pull at about 5
pounds. The trigger pull on this RGS is about 3.5 pounds
according to my Lyman trigger-pull gage. The trigger pull is
smooth and exhibits a crisp let-off with a mild after-travel.
All in all, I am satisfied with it. The trigger will, no
doubt, smooth out after it is worked for a while. The RGS is,
after all, not a target rifle but it is better than any of my
Glock triggers and any found in my Springfield pistols. I can
live with that. There are; however, plenty of kits, springs,
and replacement triggers if one feels to need to modify an
already acceptable trigger.
Getting Spacey:
Three
1/2-inch
Spacers
Provided for Adjusting LOP
Butt wait! Ruger has seemed fit to accommodate shooters of
various arm lengths. Included with the rifle are three 1/2 –
inch spacers that can be used to adjust the length of pull
from 12.75″ – 14.25″ by simply removing two Allen-head screws
with the provided Allen wrench, removing or adding spacers
until the desired LOP is attained, and then re-installing the
screws. The butt pad itself is soft and does well handling the
recoil of the .308 Winchester. I will add here that although I
could have installed all of the spacers to fit my desired
14.25” LOP, I opted not to. See, My Add-ons.
My add-ons:
Optics:
Although I wanted to run right out and shoot the RGS, I fought
the urge and decided to start equipping the RGS the way that I
wanted at least for evaluation purposes.
AIM Sport 2-7×32 SCout Scope
with Warne Quick Detachable
Mounts
First thing was optics. I ordered a Nikon Force XR 2.5-8×28
EER Matte with BDC, but decided to try a less inexpensive AIM
Sports 2-7×32 Dual-Illuminated Pistol/Scout Scope first. I
have this scope on a Mosin Nagant that is set up with a
forward-mounted configuration. It has held up to about 200
rounds of 7.62x54R so I ordered a second one for the RGS. I
like the scout scope configuration simply because I don’t like
a scope close to my face as with rear-mounted scopes. Eye
relief with the AIM Sports 2-7×32 Dual-Illuminated
Pistol/Scout Scope is 8” to 10”. Only time and use will tell.
Warne Quick Detach 1″ Tube
Low Height .250 Matte Finish
Scope Rings
I wanted to be able to quickly detach the scope from the
Picatinny rail and a set of Warne Maxima Series Steel Rings
(URL) was quickly set up. I wanted to keep the scope as low to
the bore axis as possible yet still be able to keep the rear
sight. The low height of the Warne rings is perfect. A couple
of turns of the tightening levers, the scope is in my hands,
and the fixed sights are always ready. The scope adds 13.6
ounces to the weight of the gun
I’m also experimenting with the UTG DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA
Red/Green Dot Sight with Integral QD Mount and Flip-open Lens
Caps. I have this unit on the Windham Weaponry SRC and it has
worked well. I would like to be able to use a unit like this
for up to 100-yards and closer and switch to a more powerful
scope (like the Nikon) to reach out further. It is all an
experiment.
Slim Jims with Minute Of
Mouth Accuracy! 1″ Scope
Rings Holds 4 Slim Jims in a
Convenient
Off-Scouting
Snack Arrangement
As a note, if you have a spare set of quick-detachable 1″
scope rings lying around, why not put them to use? During
those “Off-Scouting” moments, use a spare set of rings to hold
4 of your favorite Slim Jim Snacks in an easy-reached
arrangement. Accuracy is Minute-Of-Mouth. If you have to use
those pesky fixed sights, or need to quickly mount an EER
scope, simply detach the Slim Jim mounts and you are on your
way! Patent is not pending nor considered.
Adjusting for LOP:
Limbsaver
Slip-on
Recoil Pad. Quick
Adjustment for LOP
According
Clothing
Additional
Management
to
+
recoil
Rather than use the Ruger provided spacers for LOP, I used the
Limbsaver large slip-on recoil pad to slide over the existing
butt pad and spacer. The Limbsaver provides an extra layer of
recoil cushioning and, if I am wearing heavy clothing like a
thick outdoor coat and inner vest, I can slip the Limbsaver
off quickly without having to dissemble the butt of the
firearm and the extra bulk of the coat and vest provides
enough LOP. If I remove the heavy winter coat, I can simply
slide the Limbsaver back on the rifle. With the Limbsaver
installed, the LOP is at a perfect 14.25” for me. I won’t
complain about the additional recoil protection.
Sling:
SKS-Style Sling w/Quick
Release Swivels. Suitable
for Most Needs
Jeff Cooper’s vision of the Scout Rifle was one that was
carried in the “Port-Arms” position. Cooper advocated the use
of a sling as a shooting aid and preferred the “Ching Sling”
or “CW” sling. I opted for a simple two-point sling that I
have on several shotguns and it works perfect for the RGS – a
sling intended for the SKS.
Blackhawk 1″ Swivels and
Hardware – Detachable and
Lockable.
Hardware
not
needed on the RGS.
NcStar makes a nice unit in black with black leather “leaders”
that strap to quick-detach swivels from Blackhawk Tactical. It
not only fits the RGS nicely and accents the RGS’s lines, but
it is very functional for my needs.
I would like to stray from the review for just a moment.
Of the different types of slings, the simple two-point,
single-strap sling with quick-attachment fittings does the
trick in most cases. For me, the adjustment buckle is
positioned to the butt of the firearm, which leaves an
unobstructed sling surface for what work is needed at the
forearm area – providing a stable shooting platform.
If I am simply shooting offhand, and don’t feel that I need
the sing for extra stabilization, I simply let the sling hang.
Again, I am a right-dominant left-handed long-gun operator but
the technique that I use when using a two-point, single-strap
sling is applicable to right-handed long gun operators; the
support arm is mirrored.
Note: If you have a sling that has a pad for carrying, the
technique will still work. If I have a sling with a moveable
carrying pad, I like to move the pad to the rear by the buckle
where it is mostly out of the way while using the sling for
support.
Use
the
Sling
To
Adjust
Tension.
Rather than just allow the sling to rest on the outside of my
hand, I use the sling to regulate the amount of tension that I
desire.
With the rifle shouldered and with the sling initially
adjusted, I insert the right arm inside the sling until the
sling rest against the upper arm. The right arm then is moved
outward in a slight swooping action. Coming inward from the
outside of the sling, the sling is placed in the palm of the
support hand. The support hand then moves to the forearm with
the sling placed in the palm of the hand. I judge the tension
on the sling and re-adjust the sling length until I feel that
the tension is as close as I want it. If I need more tension
on the sling, I move my hand rearward and my elbow outward
while allowing the sling to slide in the palm of my hand. To
release some tension, I simply move my hand forward on the
forearm of the stock. As I shift my support hand position, the
elbow of the support arm moves in and out accordingly.
I have tried the technique using a quick-adjust two-point
sling and found that I was either allowing too much slack or
not enough slack when I was moving into the firing position to
make the sling work as I wanted it; thus the reason for a
simple two-point sling. I set it and forget it.
To work the bolt, I release the support hand from the rifle’s
forearm and release the sling from the palm of my hand. The
sling remains across my forearm and upper arm. I can then
operate the bolt using my open-handed technique. After the
bolt locks into place, the support hand goes forward just in
front of the rifle’s forearm. I once again place the sling in
the palm of my hand and move the hand rearward until the
proper tension is felt.
Now, back to the regularly scheduled program.
Storage, Transport, and Support:
The
Bore
Stores
SRC-1
Silicone Treated Gun Storage
Case
is
Perfect
for
Protecting the Rifle During
Storage
A Bore Stores SRC-1 Silicone Treated Gun Storage Case protects
the rifle when in the safe. I used to use silicone treated gun
sock, but they have been cut up and are now used as silicontreated wipes. The Bore Store provides padding and protection
of valuable firearms – and some not so valuable.
The Allen Company Badlands
Hybrid Case for Scoped Guns
Oversized Fits Rifles with
Bi-Pods
The Allen Company Badlands Hybrid Case for Scoped Guns
Oversized Fits Rifles with Bi-Pods is used to transport the
rifle to and from – wherever.
The .308 Operators Bag
w/almost all of the support
essentials for a days
scouting
The .308 Support Operators Bag provides all the items
necessary to support the RGS. “A roomy main drawstring-closed
compartment provides generous and secure storage space for
your gear in this multi-functional Tactical Messenger. With a
front pocket for quick access, an interior pocket for
convenient, separated storage, and a concealed back pocket
with zipper closure to protect your most essential small
firearms or accessories, this is the only bag you need. It
also has a fully adjustable, padded and ergonomic shoulder
strap for comfortable carrying.” There is room for a fully
functional Ruger SR1911 w/spare magazines and canned sardines.
I wanted to add a Velcro patch to the outside flap, but it
would have added to much weight :>).
Some items, like selected spare parts are not shown (ordered
but have not arrived).
Part I Wrap Up:
“Gray Boy” Bundled and Ready
The RGS Looks Similar to the
Lee- Enfield MK 5 “Jungle
Carbine – Note Front Sight
and Flash Suppressor
Ruger Gunsite Scout Model
6822
Well, there you have the basics. I think that Sturm, Ruger &
Co. did a good job in keeping with Jeff Cooper’s vision of a
“Scout Rifle” while keeping the cost affordable to most folks
like myself. It won’t wear an old man like me down while
handling the darn thing and unlike some of those “delicate”
hunting rifles in like caliber, the RGS screams “utility” like
a MAC truck.
When I first saw the RGS I, like some others, thought that it
slightly resembled the old Lee-Enfield No. 5 Mk 1 “Jungle
Carbine” albeit a more modern version and slightly heavier
(unloaded , the Lee-Enfield No. 5 Mk 1 “Jungle Carbine” was
about 6.8 pounds vs. 7.10 pounds for the RGS).
However, the RGS fires the .308/7.62x51mm NATO cartridge; a
more powerful round that the .303 British, or 7.7×56mmR
.308 @175 gr (11 g) BTHP, 2,645 ft/s (806 m/s), 2,720 ft•lbf
(3,690 J)
vs.
.303 British @ 174 gr (11 g) HPBT, 761 m/s (2,500 ft/s), 3,265
J (2,408 ft•lbf)
In Part II, I will be taking it to a new indoor range where I
can see what “Gray Boy” is going to do at 100 yards.
Go to Scouting Around – Part II (Ruger Gunsite Scout Continued
–
Finally!):
http://guntoters.com/blog/2016/08/15/scouting-around-part-ii/
Some Resources:
Allen Company Badlands Hybrid Case for Scoped Guns
Oversized
Fits
Rifles
with
Bi-Pods
–
http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Badlands-Oversized-B
iPods/dp/B004NFRMXG/ref=pd_sim_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0H8Q8B
3DJFFJGWK1PTF6
UTG Multi-functional
Tactical
Messenger
Bag
–
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BJBIT0/ref=twister_B002TUSS
Y4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Aim Sports 2-7X32 Dual III. Long Eye Relief Scope with
Rings
–
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BRB1PM/ref=oh_aui_d
etailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Warne Scope Mounts Low Matte Quick Detach Rings (1-Inch)
–
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MJZ2A/ref=oh_aui_d
etailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Blackhawk 1″ Swivel Hardware (for use with Bolt-Action
Rifles)- Wal-Mart
NcStar AAKSB Ak/sks Sling – Black (NcStar AAKSB) –
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MASAYZ6/ref=oh_aui_d
etailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ruger Magazine Ruger Gunsite Scout 308 Winchester
Polymer
Black
–
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1366829505/ruger-magazi
ne-ruger-gunsite-scout-308-winchester-polymer-black
UTG DS3068 6.4-Inch ITA Red/Green Dot Sight with
Integral QD Mount and Flip-open Lens Caps (not shown) –
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HIFS8A/ref=oh_aui_d
etailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1