Fox Holes Climbing Guide

Fox Holes
Climbing Guide
Simon Litchfield
Copyright © 2014 Simon Litchfield
All rights reserved
Fox Holes Crag
-
Introduction
Fox Holes Crag
By Simon Litchfield
The Climbing
General
A wave with a collection of good boulder problems on
generally excellent rock. With a number of stellar prows,
predominently good landings and only a fifteen minute walk
in from the A696 the crag is worth a visit as an alternative to
Wolf, Shafto or Rothley.
Approach
Fo
xh
ole
s
Situation and Character
Facing north northwest the crag catches the glow of the
warm evening summer sun and feels disproportionally
remote.
Rock: Ottercops Sandstones Carboniferous, Dinantian
( L o w e r
L i m e s t o n e
G r o u p )
Access Issues:
There is a right of access under CRoW.
Ra
yC
rag
History:
The crag has been discovered on a number of occasions,
however, despite the right of access the crag barely got
single sentence in either the 2004 definitive or the 2008
bouldering guides. This author, however, defies anyone who
aruges that Fantastic Mr Fox is anything but pure class. This
guide lists the major lines on the major features, other lines
have been climbed... But then its bouldering so with a little
imagination eliminates are endless. The crag is also close to
Ray Crag, which has also been extensively climbed. The
The crag is best approached from the A696, just south of the author‘s view is that Foxholes is a better bouldering venue,
Wolf Crag layby / footpath. Park on the verge where a ridge so it may be a while before a guide appears for Ray. Names
joins the south west side of road (prior to slight cutting when have been given to aid locating climbs.
driving west before Wolf). Here paths and stiles are visible
on both sides of the road. Cross the south west stile. After a The Climbs
dry spell follow the valley upwards to a plateau. Keeping to The first section of the crag offers a few problems with
the left, pass under some pylons and the crag is found in a poorish landings and some drainage, however, the crag soon
hollow beyond beneath a fence. This approach can be boggy improves with the undercut, excellent Shark Prow (picture
after rain, in such cases it is best to stick to the left ridge line, above).
passing a number of cairns.
Below: Heal over head in love with Boulderers‘ Delight.
Above:
Cover:
2
Aid Crag from the Fourlaws approach.
Rounding off a great evening on Hypotenuse
Fox Holes Crag
-
Shark to Mr Fox
4. WT LEFT
font 5
SS. Using the undercling gain the shelf before topping out
at the notch.
5. WT WALL
font 5
SS. Start at the WT carving. Climb the wall using the left
fluting jug.
2
6. WT ARÊTE
font 6a
SS. Climb the easy looking arête, with a tricky right
trending top out.
7. EASY WALL
font 3
The easy wall right of the prow
The next major feature is a clean arête providing the
stellar route of the crag.
1
1. SHARK PROW
font 6c ***
SS . Hold the swing and monkey to the lip. A beach finish
awaits. An easier version (2) can be climbed by starting at
the mid-way slot. Font 6b+
A little further right are the undercut WT Walls defined by
diagonal undercling flake and carved inscription on the
right.
3. WT Traverse
font 5+
A low level traverse on underclings starting at the Shark
and finishing up WT Arête or Easy Wall. A traverse of the
whole crag has also been done.
9
8
3
4
5
6
7
8. FANTASTIC MR FOX
font 7a+/b ***(*)
Tackle the left side of the fabulous arête. The upper half is
hard: a tough mono may assist progress. Photo overleaf
3
Fox Holes Crag
- Howitzer and Camel
12. MELCHIOR
font 6a
(SS) Climb the left side of the bloc (without bridging) to
a dynamic finish
13
11
Right of the gully is: Howitzer Buttress
12
9.THE HOWITZER font 6b+ **
SS. Hug up the barrel using the occasional useful
chicken head on the left side.
16
14
15
13. CAMEL ARÊTE font 6b **
Gain the nose and crimp before making like a camel.
14. CASPAR
font 5+
(SS) From a small pocket in the back of the cave gain
the break via holds on the lip. Loosely continue to the
top
15. BALTHAZAR
font 5
(SS) From the lower nose, gain the break and the top.
16. JOURNEY FROM THE EAST font 6b+/c ***
Traverse the lower set of holds, finishing up Camel
Arête.
9
Photo: Simon Litchfield sylishly searching for a steed.
A little further down the crag is a beautiful hanging
feature:
10. BOULDERERS‘ DELIGHT VS
***
Crimp up the obvious feature using microholds on
either side of crack... Or just sink that jam with glee.
At the far end of the crag is an undercut buttress with
generally good landings: Camel Prow
11. DESERT SHIPS font 5
Traverse the break from left to right finishing just left
of a block. Can also be done right to left.
Produced in association with Geoquest-Verlag.de with photos from Joe Spoor
4
Copyright © 2014 Simon Litchfield
All rights reserved