Numbering Artifacts A How-to Slideshow

Numbering Artifacts
A How-to Slideshow
Courtesy
Wyoming State Museum
What You Will Learn
This short tutorial will guide you in numbering:
non-porous artifacts with light backgrounds;
non-porous artifacts with dark backgrounds;
two-dimensional works of art;
books and paper artifacts;
textiles.
Make It Standard, Secure, Reversible
Artifacts should be numbered in a regular location
whenever possible, and the appearance of the
number should be the same from piece to piece.
A number must be secure and durable, yet
reversible so no damage results if it ever needs to
be removed from the artifact.
Supplies you may need.
(See next slide for description.)
Supplies you may need.
The previous slide shows (left to right, top to bottom):
can of acetone (for removal of numbers, if necessary)
bottle of Soluvar Gloss Varnish,
bottle of Acryloid B-72,
bottle of White Acrylic Fluid,
white thread/needle,
cotton twill tape,
cotton swab or q-tip,
eraser,
scissors,
tweezers,
Rapidograph pen,
Micron pen,
pencil,
acid-free artifact tags,
A supplier list can be found at the end of this slide show.
Important Note
Note: Do not use Soluvar Gloss Varnish, Acryloid B-72,
or acetone on painted objects or plastics without
doing a small test first.
These chemicals can permanently damage some
paints and plastics. Apply a tiny dot of either liquid to
the object being numbered (or having a number
removed) and look for changes before proceeding.
What are they used for?
Soluvar Gloss Varnish or Acryloid B-72, and White Acrylic Fluid are
used to paint a small base coat on non-porous surfaces such as metal,
stone, glass, ceramic, and some plastics.
What are they used for?
Pencils are used for numbering paper. A Rapidograph pen
and/or Micron pen are used for numbering
non-porous artifacts.
What are they used for?
Cotton twill tape, along with needle and thread, are used to
attach numbers to textiles.
To number light colored, non-porous artifacts, you will need a bottle of clear,
Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish to create barrier coats, a q-tip to apply
them, and a Rapidograph pen or Micron pen to write the number.
First, apply a thin base coat layer of clear Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar
Gloss Varnish to the artifact with the q-tip. The layer should be about
one inch in length.
Once applied, allow the layer to dry completely.
Next, use your Rapidograph or Micron pen to write the object’s
indentification number on the dried base layer. Allow the ink to dry
completely before the next step.
Apply a top coat of clear Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish over
the number to protect it. This layer should extend over the edge of
the base layer. Allow the piece to dry completely.
To number dark colored, non-porous objects, you will need a bottle of clear
Acryloid B72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish, a bottle of White Acrylic Fluid, a
Rapidograph pen or Micron pen, and a q-tip. For this artifact we are also
adding an acid-free paper tag for quick and easy identification.
First, apply a thin, one inch long base coat of Acryloid B-72 or Soluvar Gloss
Varnish to the object. Once dry, apply a layer of White Acrylic Fluid to the top
of the base coat. Allow the White Acrylic Fluid to dry completely.
Use your Rapidograph or Micron pen to write the artifact’s
identification number on the dried White Acrylic Fluid. Allow the ink
to dry completely.
Apply a top coat of clear Acryloid B72 or Soluvar Gloss Varnish over the
number. This layer should extend over the edge of the base coat.
Write the artifact’s identification number on an acid-free paper
tag with a pencil.
Attach the tag loosely to the artifact. This will allow for an easier
check of the artifact’s identification number in the future.
Removing a Number Applied with Acryloid B-72
or Soluvar Gloss Varnish
To remove a number applied with Acryloid B-72 or
Soluvar Gloss Varnish, wet a q-tip in acetone and lightly
swab at the number until it dissolves. Wipe the area
with a clean cloth. You can apply a new number when
the object is dry.
To number a two-dimensional work of art,
you need a 2H pencil.
Turn the artwork over and write the object’s identification number in the lower right
corner. If the artwork is unframed, write the number on the stretcher bar in the same
way. Posters and similar two-dimensional pieces can have their numbers lightly
applied directly to the back lower right corner of the object.
To number a book, you will need a 2H pencil.
Open the back cover and apply the object number to the lower
right corner of the cover with the pencil.
Removing a Number Applied with Pencil
To remove a number applied with pencil, use a
clean eraser and lightly erase the markings.
Minimize your strokes and try to erase only the
area covered by pencil marks. Ensure that eraser
debris is cleaned from all surfaces of the object.
To number a textile, you will need cotton twill tape, a needle and
thread, a Rapidograph pen or Micron pen, and scissors.
First, cut a short piece of cotton twill tape approximately
1.5 to 2 inches in length.
Write the object’s identification number in the center of the twill tape
with a Rapidograph pen or Micron pen and allow it to dry completely.
Fold the short edges of the cotton twill tape back to prevent fraying
then sew the short edges onto an interior surface or the back of
the textile. Use just enough loose stitches to secure the tag.
Removing a Cloth Tag Number from a Textile
To remove a cloth tag number from a textile, use a pair
of scissors to snip the stitches attaching the tag to
the cloth. Use tweezers to gently remove the stitches.
Where to buy supplies.
Supplies for these processes may be found at:
Hobby Lobby or similar craft supply stores
Gaylord Brothers (www.gaylord.com)
University Products (www.universityproducts.com)
Dick Blick (www.dickblick.com)