Heritage Survey of the Lower Bann Navigation
Transcription
Heritage Survey of the Lower Bann Navigation
BUILT HERITAGE SURVEY OF THE LOWER BANN WATERWAY 1. General overview Fred Hamond for Waterways Ireland December 2013 Cover, clockwise from top left: Carnroe Lock (WIIAH 4175), Glandore Boat House (4201), Toome Eel Fishery (4313), and Cutts Floodgates (4096). CONTENTS Preface Summary METHODOLOGY 1. Methodology 1 1.1 Scope of survey 1 1.2 Paper survey 2 1.3 Field survey 3 1.4 Site numbering and classification 4 1.5 Computer databases 6 BUILT HERITAGE 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Prehistoric and historic settlement 9 2.1 Prehistoric period 9 2.2 Medieval period 13 2.3 Post-Medieval period 16 2.4 Development of Coleraine 19 Non-tidal river drainage and navigation 23 3.1 Drainage and navigational issues 23 3.2 Developments up to the 1840s 24 3.3 MacMahon’s scheme 26 3.4 Kitty of Coleraine 39 3.5 Developments and proposals, 1859 – 1925 40 3.6 Shepherd’s scheme, 1925 44 3.7 Post World War 2 developments 48 Tidal river navigation 53 4.1 The Barmouth 53 4.2 River improvements 65 4.3 Coleraine Port 66 Fishing 75 5.1 Salmon fisheries 75 5.2 Eel fisheries 79 5.3 Angling today 87 Extractive industries 89 6.1 Stone 89 6.2 Clay 90 6.3 Diatomite 92 6.4 Peat 95 6.5 Sand 96 7. 8. 9. 10. Manufacturing and power generation 99 7.1 Grain milling 99 7.2 Flax and linen 101 7.3 Distilling and brewing 102 7.4 Saw milling 102 7.5 Modern industry 103 7.6 Hydro-power 103 Railways 107 8.1 Developments to 1860 107 8.2 Later developments 110 8.3 Post-war closures and legacy 112 Second World War 113 9.1 Pillboxes 114 9.2 Prepared demolition chambers 114 9.3 Airfields 115 9.4 Military camps 116 Recreational uses 117 10.1 Cruising 117 10.2 Yachting 122 10.3 Rowing 122 10.4 Canoeing 123 10.5 Water skiing 123 CONSERVING THE BUILT HERITAGE 11. 12. 13. Sites of heritage significance 125 11.1 Heritage evaluation 125 11.2 Heritage rating 125 11.3 Sites of heritage merit 126 11.4 Heritage sites belonging to Waterways Ireland 135 Conservation issues 137 12.1 Statutory protection 137 12.2 Conservation actions 142 Conclusions 145 Appendices: 1. Bibliography 2. Site database fields 3. Commissioners of Public Works reports 4. Sites of heritage significance PREFACE This survey of the Lower Bann River was commissioned by Waterways Ireland in 2010 as part of its programme of identifying and recording the built heritage of those navigable waterways in Northern Ireland and the Republic within its operational remit. This particular survey focuses on the built heritage of the Lower Bann from where it flows north out of Lough Neagh at Toome to where it enters the sea at Barmouth, just over 60km away. It encompasses all buildings and structures and which are (and were) associated with the waterway, selected sites which lie along its banks but which are not directly associated, and also archaeological and historical sites of pre-1700 AD date. The first section of this report outlines the methodology by which relevant sites were identified, researched, recorded and evaluated. The next section sets the scene with an outline of the area’s prehistoric and historic development. This is followed by a detailed analysis of the history of the Lower Bann Navigation between Lough Neagh and the Cutts at Coleraine, and an overview of the various features directly associated with it. A similar appraisal is also presented for the river’s tidal section from the Cutts to Barmouth. Salmon and eel fishing, extractive and manufacturing industries, power generation, railways, and the Second World War are then considered thematically in turn. The final chapter of this section examines the recreational uses now being made of the Lower Bann. The final section focuses on the conservation of the Lower Bann’s built heritage. Sites of heritage interest are highlighted and conservation measures outlined which will assist in the retention of those of special significance. The main part of the report is followed by appendices listing the documentary sources consulted, details of the site record database, reports by the Commissioners of Public Works on the Navigation’s construction, and a tabulation of sites of heritage interest. This volume is accompanied by a gazetteer giving details of all recorded sites within the study area. The copyright of the maps presented in this gazetteer belongs to the Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland and are reproduced with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. Note that unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. I should like to thank a number of individuals for their assistance in the preparation of this report: Gareth Nelson for piloting me up and down the river; Stephen Douglas, Joe Gillespie, Derek Cathcart, Robert Hanson, Davy McKendrick, David McLaughlin, Ivan Smyth of Waterways Ireland; Thomas McErlean, Rory McNeary and Kieran Westley of the Centre for Maritime Archaeology at the University of Ulster, Coleraine; Captain Pat McKeegan, Harbour Master at Coleraine; and also Robert Anderson, Colin Becker (Inland Waterways Association of Ireland), Philip Carson (University of Ulster), Tina Clarke (Northern Ireland Environment Agency), Pat Close (Lough Neagh Fishermen’s Co-Op), Sam McAleese (Newferry Waterski Club), Dr William McCurdy (Agrifood & Biosciences Institute), Teddy Rowan (formerly at Movanagher Fish Farm), Michael Savage, Mark Scott (Rivers Agency); and Robbie Warke (former lock keeper at Cutts). Technical support was provided by Sabine Browne and Mary Mulholland of Waterways Ireland. Finally, but by no means least, my thanks to Eamonn Horgan, Waterways Ireland’s Environment Officer, for his patient supervision of this project. Fred Hamond Industrial Archaeologist 75 Locksley Pk, Belfast BT10 0AS December 2013 SUMMARY 1. Introduction 1.1 This report was commissioned by Waterways Ireland in 2010 to identify and record built heritage features along the Lower Bann between Lough Neagh and the Barmouth, where the river enters the sea. 1.2 It encompasses all structures and buildings which are associated with the waterway and selected sites adjacent to it but which are not directly associated with it, including sites of pre-1700 AD date. 1.3 A range of documentary sources was used to identify these built heritage features: Ordnance Survey maps, databases held by the Northern Ireland Environment Agency, Centre for Maritime Research, and Waterways Ireland. Historical publications were also gleaned for information. The sites thus identified were supplemented with extra ones discovered during the course of fieldwork. 1.4 The fieldwork was conducted during the summer and autumn of 2010 and encompassed approximately 400 sites of potential interest. Some were eliminated as they were found not to be heritage features, whilst others were amalgamated. 1.5 The outcome was the recording of a total of 343 built heritage sites, of which 224 are directly related to the waterway. Waterways Ireland has a stake in 37 of them. 1.6 These sites were categorised into 35 different types. As the primary focus of this study is on the actual waterway, features thus associated were classified in greater detail than for other categories. 1.7 The data generated by the paper and field surveys were inputted to Access 2000 and MapInfo databases for ease of storage, analysis and retrieval. A gazetteer detailing the history, state and significance of each site accompanies this report. 2. Prehistoric and historic settlement 2.1 People have exploited the Lower Bann for some 10,000 years. Its rich ecological diversity, and abundance of salmon and eels in particular, attracted seasonal Mesolithic hunters and gatherers, the presence of whom is clearly evident in the numerous flint artifacts recovered from the river, banks, and coastal sand dunes. 2.2 Although settlement continued into the Neolithic, Bronze and Iron ages, its physical manifestations are less marked save for artifact findspots, the most notable of which is Camus Ford where the Bann Disc was recovered. 2.3 The Medieval period witnessed the advent of monastic sites such as Camus and the Christianisation of the area. The late 12th century saw the coming of the AngloNormans and the subdivision of the region between the Earls of Ulster and Gaelic landowners. During this time Coleraine came to prominence. 2.4 The post-Medieval period is marked by the Plantation of Ulster in the early 1600 by James 1. Coleraine and its hinterland were granted to the Honourable the Irish Society who administered the region’s colonisation on the king’s behalf. The county of Londonderry was also created and settled by various London guilds who established permanent settlements such as Movanagher. 2.5 Since Anglo-Norman times, Coleraine has been the region’s principal administrative centre and foremost port. In the late 1700s and 1800s, the town also became a minor industrial centre, particularly in relation to linen production and grain milling. 3. Non-tidal river drainage and navigation 3.1 Although it is usually much cheaper to make a river navigable rather than to construct an artificial canal, the operation of a navigation is considerably more problematic. This is particularly so in the case of the Lower Bann, the catchment of which comprises almost 40% of the land surface of Northern Ireland. This river is prone to flooding and fast moving currents, both of which make navigation extremely difficult. 3.2 The alleviation of flooding and the discharge of water along the river as rapidly as possible, satisfying the requirements of the fishing interests along the river, whilst at the same time maintaining a sufficient depth of water for navigation are issues which have bedevilled the operation of the Lower Bann Navigation to the present. 3.3 From the early 1700s, various schemes were proposed to alleviate flooding and improve the river’s navigability. It was not until the mid-1800s, however, that matters were taken in hand by John MacMahon of the Commissioners of Public Works (Ireland). Between 1847 and 1857, lateral canals, regulating weirs and locks were built, shoals removed, the bed of the river dredged, and bridges modified to facilitate river traffic between Lough Neagh and the Cutts at Coleraine. 3.4 In 1859, the Commissioners transferred their responsibility for the Lower Bann to the Lough Neagh Drainage Trust and Lower Bann Navigation Trust. By this time, however, the railways had come to the area, so the anticipated traffic along the river, and revenues which might otherwise have accrued, was never realised. Flooding also continued to cause problems from time to time. 3.5 Numerous reports were commissioned on how best to deal with the recurring issue of flooding whilst taking into account a navigation which, although fit for purpose, now had no real purpose. These issues were revisited in the 1920s by the newly-established Government of Northern Ireland and proposals put forward by Major Percy Shepherd were implemented between 1930 and 1932. These entailed the installation of flood control sluices (notably where the river exits Lough Neagh) and further extensive dredging of the river. 3.6 Since then, the level of Lough Neagh has been lowered several times and is now over two metres lower than it was prior to MacMahon’s scheme. Control of the level and flow of the river is in the hands of Rivers Agency, whilst the Navigation, still essentially as built in the mid-1800s, is administered by Waterways Ireland. 4. Tidal river navigation 4.1 The tidal stretch of the Lower Bann runs from the Cutts, via Coleraine, to the Atlantic Ocean at the Barmouth. The obstructions to shipping posed by the sandbar and rocky shoal across the mouth of the river were formidable obstacles to the development of Coleraine as a maritime port, so much so that Portrush was developed as an out-port for the town in the 1830s. 4.2 In the 1860s, the Coleraine Town Commissioners appointed John Coode to dredge the Barmouth. He was retained by the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners to carry out a more ambitious scheme from 1879 to 1888 which entailed the construction of two long moles where the river enters the sea at the Barmouth. 4.3 Extensive repairs and partial rebuilding of the Barmouth moles were carried out between 1929 and 1943. Further dredging of the river upstream to Coleraine was also undertaken during this period. 4.4 The success of the two Barmouth schemes and dredging of the river is evident in the physical expansion of the quays along the Coleraine waterfront downstream of the Town Bridge. The harbour was also served by spur off the main BelfastColeraine-Derry railway line between 1892 and 1966. 4.5 The gradual downturn in maritime traffic in the post-War period has seen the contraction of the port and its partial selling off for commercial purposes. In order to generate fresh traffic, a marina has also been lately established by the Harbour Commissioners for recreational boating. 5. Fishing 5.1 The Lower Bann was, until recently, abundant in salmon and eels, both of which have been exploited since Mesolithic times. Both drainage and navigation interests have always had to take account of fish movements, even in the 19th century. 5.2 Salmon are netted during the spring and summer on their way upstream to spawn. Until recently, most were caught in nets on the tidal section of the river at the Cranagh and in traps built into the navigation weir at the Cutts. 5.3 To conserve stocks, salmon fishing has now ceased on the tidal stretch. The Irish Society still retains the fishing rights above the Cutts, but only permit rod fishing under license. 5.4 In contrast to salmon, eels are trapped on their way downriver in the autumn and winter. Eel weirs were established at the rocky shoals at Toome, Portna, Movanagher, and the Cutts, where they could be caught most easily. Some weirs were removed during MacMahon’s mid-1800s works or were replaced by new ones after the 1930s’ dredging operations. 5.5 Eels, like the salmon, have declined in numbers and in an endeavour to conserve stocks, only the traps at Toome and Portna are now used by the Lough Neagh Fishermen’s Co-Operative Society. 6. Extractive industries 6.1 The geomorphology of the Lower Bann lends itself to the exploitation of stone, clay, diatomite, peat and sand, some of which was also transported along the waterway by barge. 6.2 Basalt was quarried in the vicinity of the river at Carnanee and Tamlaght for the construction of the Barmouth moles and navigation weirs respectively. 6.3 During the 19th century, clay was dug extensively along the banks of the river, particularly between Toome and Agivey, for locally-made brick. 6.4 The clay is rich in diatomite and lenses of this particular mineral were specifically exploited during the first half of the 20th century for industrial purposes (e.g. fillers), particularly at Toome and Newferry. 6.5 The industrial exploitation of peat also started in the early 1900s and continues to this day for horticultural purposes at Ballynease, north-west of Newferry. 6.6 The dredging of sand from the bed of Lough Neagh plays a key role in supplying Northern Ireland’s construction industry, but is largely outside the study area. 7. Manufacturing and power generation 7.1 Until the widespread adoption of steam engines in the mid-1800s, water was the principal source of power for manufacturing purposes. However, the Bann itself was difficult to harness, on account of its relatively shallow gradient and massive volume of water. 7.2 The only major industrial site which made use of the actual river was a large flour mill erected in the early 1800s at the Cutts. Unfortunately, it was gutted by fire in 1820 and demolished in 1840 to make way for a new quay above the navigation lock. 7.3 Smaller water-powered corn milling and flax scutching mills are also to be found on the river’s tributaries. Much larger steam-driven grain and textile mills also made their appearance in the Coleraine and Ballymoney districts in the mid-1800s. Other minor 19th century industries recorded in the study area include distilling, brewing and saw milling. 7.4 Several relatively modern industries are also noted in Coleraine: the 1940s Benger’s Factory, 1950s Chemstrand Factory where Acrilan was produced, and 1960s Spanboard Factory where chipboard was manufactured. 7.5 Although MacMahon had envisaged the falls at each of the navigation weirs being harnessed for hydro-power, this never came to pass. Nor did the various schemes proposed in the 1900s for the large-scale production of electricity, having fallen foul of the constraints demanded by navigation and fishing interests. 8. Railways 8.1 By the time the Lower Bann Navigation was completed in 1857, Coleraine was already connected by railway to both Belfast and Derry and a line also ran through Toome from Randalstown to Cookstown. To this network was subsequently added the Derry Central Line on the west side of the Bann, from Macfin to Magherafelt. As a consequence, much of the trade envisaged for the newlyopened waterway was transported by rail instead. 8.2 The river was crossed by railway bridges at Coleraine, Macfin and Toome. All had opening sections to permit the passage of vessels underneath. 8.3 Only the Belfast-Coleraine-Derry line remains in use. Its most notable feature is the bascule bridge at Coleraine which dates from 1924 and replaced a timber bridge of 1860 further upstream. 9. The Second World War 9.1 In the early 1940s, airfields were constructed at Mullaghmore (Aghadowey) and Toome for the training of RAF and USAAF airmen en route to Europe. Extensive remains of both survive, as do a substantial number of living quarters and ancillary facilities associated with the former. 9.2 Military camps were also established at Ballyscullion and at Brecart Lodge, near Toome. 9.3 The threat of invasion was counteracted with the construction of pillboxes at strategic locations on both sides of the river, including the Barmouth. Demolition chambers were also inserted in all the bridges to enable them to be blown up at a moment’s notice should an invasion have actually occurred. 10. Recreational use 10.1 Commercial traffic was largely confined to the transportation of bricks, diatomite and sand, but now the traffic along the Navigation is solely of a recreational nature. 10.2 River cruising is, by far, the most popular pastime. Seven marinas and over 100 moorings, landing and launching facilities have been recorded. Some are public facilities owned by Waterways Ireland or by local authorities, but the majority are privately operated. 10.3 The Coleraine Yacht Club is active on the tidal stretch of the river, whilst rowing is represented by the Bann Rowing Club and Coleraine Inst. A long-distance canoe trail along the Lower Bann has been devised by the Canoe Association of Northern Ireland. Water- and jet-skiing are, however, restricted to five relatively short stretches of river. 11. Sites of heritage significance 11.1 The criteria devised by the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage – notably their archaeological, architectural, artistic, cultural, historical, social and technical attributes - were used to assess the heritage merit of all the recorded sites. They were then rated as being of negligible, low, medium or high significance. 11.2 Ninety-four sites were rated as being significant, of which 23 were of low, 35 of medium, and 36 of high merit. Waterways Ireland owns 19 of these sites, most of which are features of the original mid-19th century Navigation (e.g. lateral canals, weirs, locks and moles). 12. Conservation Issues 12.1 Thirteen of the surveyed sites have been designated by the Northern Ireland Environment Agency as Listed Buildings and 20 are Scheduled Monuments (three of which are also in State Care). 12.2 Of the eight sites where physical conservation actions are recommended, minimal aesthetic work or minor repairs are suggested for seven of them. Only in the case of the breakwater belonging to Rivers Agency at the Lough Neagh entrance to the river are significant repairs potentially required. 1. METHODOLOGY The first task in this project was to define the geographical extent and time period of the built heritage sites to be included. This was then followed by a review of a wide range of written sources and other relevant databases in order to highlight potential sites which met the above spatial and temporal criteria. These sites were then systematically surveyed: relevant sites were recorded, irrelevant ones eliminated, and new sites found during fieldwork added. The data thus amassed as a result of these paper and field surveys were then put into computer databases to facilitate their analysis, interpretation, and production of a comprehensive built heritage inventory of the Lower Bann. 1.1 Scope of survey The initial brief required a survey of all the architectural, engineering, industrial and other built heritage features along the Lower River Bann Navigation from where it exits Lough Neagh to where it enters the sea at Barmouth, a total length of 60.4km. This comprises the 48.9km long river down to the Cutts Weir and also the 11.5km tidal section from there to the sea; the latter includes a 9.0km stretch from Coleraine to Barmouth which is under the control of the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners rather than Waterways Ireland (fig 1.1). Barmouth Portrush Coleraine Ballymoney Limavady Kilrea Ballymena Portglenone Tidal Toome Non-tidal Antrim Lough Neagh Fig 1.1 Map of Lower Bann showing principal towns along its course. 1 Although the survey zone was, in theory, confined to a 50m wide corridor along each bank, more distant sites whose curtilage impinged on the waterway were also to be included. As well as buildings and structures directly related to the Navigation (e.g. lateral canals and locks), unrelated ones (e.g. country houses and military sites) and buried archaeological sites, where known, were part of the brief. Structures such as clay pits and quarries were also included if within the 50m survey corridor or if formerly associated with the Navigation where they lie further away. The survey was also extended to include those sections of the river which were not part of the actual Navigation. Also included were selected sites up to 500m or even further away which complemented the understanding of the sites within the focus zone. 1.2 Paper survey In compiling a list of sites of potential relevance to this survey, the first port of call was the Ordnance Survey (OS) which, since the 1830s, has provided systematic, comprehensive and accurate maps for the entire area (fig 1.2). These proved to be a firm basis for the construction of a built heritage database for the Lower Bann. Moreover, comparing sequential editions of the same map shows better than any other single source how the area’s built heritage has changed over time, and its rate of development. For much of its course, the Bann marks the boundary between counties Londonderry and Antrim. The Antrim side of the study area was surveyed in 1829-33, and the Derry side in 1831-32. Both were at a scale of six inches to a mile (1:10.560) which is LDY 02 1:10,560 County Series maps Antrim LDY 03 Surveyed: 1829-33, 1855-57, 190204, 1920-22, 1950 LDY 07 LDY 08 1:10,560 County Series maps L’derry ANT 16 LDY 12 Surveyed: 1831-32, 1848-52, 190406, 1922-27, 1939-50 ANT 21,22 LDY 19 1:10.000 Irish Grid Series maps LDY 27 ANT 26 Sheets: 12, 13, 21, 31, 41, 42, 54, 66, 79, 94 Surveyed: 1965-75 LDY 33 LDY 37,38 LDY 42,43 ANT 31 ANT 36 ANT 42 Fig 1.2 OS 1:10,560 and 1:10,000 coverage for the survey area. The map at left shows the areas covered by the 1:10,560 map sheets. 2 sufficiently detailed to show most physical features. Some sites are also captioned by function and name as well, e.g. locks, bridges and mills. Map revisions were carried out in 1848-57, and the entire area was resurveyed in 1902-06, with full or partial revisions in the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘50s. Larger scale maps, at 25 inches to a mile (1:2500) also became available from the early 1900s and these were also used for urban areas such as Coleraine where the detail provided by the six-inch maps was sometimes unclear. The period since the mid-1900s is covered by 1:10,000 maps which first appeared in the 1960’s and ‘70s. The Ordnance Survey Northern Ireland website also has current maps, as well as crisp aerial photographs. The OS maps are, however, not the only source for identifying sites of potential interest. Some may not have been mapped if they came in and out of use between surveys, or left little or no physical remains. Other databases were also examined, notably those compiled by the Northern Ireland and Environment Agency (NIEA) for archaeological, military and industrial sites, historic parks and gardens, and listed buildings. Waterways Ireland’s bridge database was also trawled for relevant sites. Not only did these highlight some new sites, but sometimes also provided additional details on sites already known from the OS maps. A bibliography of all relevant documents is given in Appendix 1. The principal sources, notably the report of the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland, yielded detailed contemporary accounts of the construction of the Lower Bann Navigation in the mid1800s. The Ordnance Survey Memoirs, meticulously compiled in the 1830s at the same times as the first maps, also provided a useful commentary on the region prior to the inception of the Navigation. The Public Record Office of N. Ireland’s searchable on-line index also proved invaluable for locating historical information such as the minutes of the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners from 1879 to 1956. Captain Pat McKeegan, the Harbour Master at Coleraine, kindly gave me access to more recent volumes. Published articles were equally invaluable in bringing together the researches of others. Coleraine Library proved to be a fruitful source of general information, whilst Ruth Delany’s Ireland’s Inland Waterways (1986) and W.A. McCutcheon’s Industrial Archaeology of Northern Ireland (1980) gave excellent overviews of the Navigation. The various articles by prolific local historian Robert Anderson on Coleraine town, its harbour and shipping were also extremely enlightening. Information on the Navigation as it is today was also gleaned from the publications of the Lower Bann & Lough Neagh Association, the Lower Bann Advisory Committee, and Waterways Ireland. 1.3 Field survey All the sites highlighted as being potentially relevant to the project were then visited over the course of 14 days between May to November 2010. Initially, all the sites were accessed from the land, which sometimes necessitated driving down unsurfaced tracks and lengthy trudges across fields to access those at or near the water’s edge. Three boat trips were also undertaken over the entire length of the river and lateral canals, from Lough Neagh to the sea. The purpose of this was to record sites which were inaccessible from the land, and also to find new sites not previous identified during the paper survey or spotted during the land-based fieldwork (e.g. remote private landing stages). A few sites found to be natural features or otherwise irrelevant were eliminated as a result of this fieldwork. Those of interest – 343 in total as it subsequently turned out 3 were described, their completeness and condition noted, and at least one digital photograph taken where there were above-ground remains. 1.4 Site numbering and classification All built heritage sites on the Lower Bann were designated by Waterways Ireland as having numbers from 4000 to 4999. These numbers are prefixed by ‘WIIAH’ to signify that they are part of the Waterways Ireland Inventory of Architectural Heritage. The numbers start at 4000 at the Barmouth end of the river and end at 4342 at Lough Neagh. Future sites can be added, beginning with 4343, but these will obviously not be in north-to-south order. As the focus of this survey is primarily on waterway-related sites, these have been classified in greater detail than others. Structures to facilitate embarkation and landing have the largest range of types and have been differentiated according to table 1.1. Jetty A fixed platform, usually of timber, projecting at right angles from the bank. Landing place A place along the bank to embark or disembark. No built structures are generally present, except perhaps for a small cutting into the bank. Landing stage A fixed timber platform aligned parallel with the bank to facilitate access to and from boats. This sub-category also includes masonry or concrete steps to facilitate the launching of canoes and rowing boats. Pier Pier-Slipway Similar to a jetty but of solid construction, usually stone and/or concrete. A projecting pier, the deck of which slopes down to the water thus enabling the launching of boats; similar to a slipway. 4 No image No image Pontoon A floating platform aligned with, or projecting from, the bank. The floatation units are generally of concrete, fiberglass or plastic, and the decks of timber, metal and/or concrete. Smaller pontoons (mooring fingers) often project. Quay A sizeable stone or timber structure aligned parallel with the edge of the bank. Also known as a Wharf. Slipway A sloping ramp into the water for launching or taking out boats. Can be cut into bank or project outwards from it. Unlike a landing place, the ramp (and often the sides) is surfaced (e.g. with concrete). Also called a Boat slip or Landing slip. Table 1.1 Classification of embarkation and landing structures. Thirty-five site categories emerged from this survey, many of which encompassed a number of sub-categorised site types (table 1.2). Category Sub-category Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Barrage; Eel weir; Fish pass; Fish trap; Navigation weir; Salmon weir Boat Barge; Boat Boat house Boat house; Boat maintenance shed Bridge (aerial) Aerial ropeway Bridge (foot) Bridge (foot/water) Bridge (rail) Bridge (rail/water); Contractor's railway bridge (rail/water) Bridge (road) Bridge (road/water) Canal Canal Club house Rowing club house; Yacht club house Coastguard station Coastguard station Dry dock Dry dock Ecclesiastical Church; Graveyard Estate building/structure Farmyard buildings; Pigeon house Ferry Ferry Ferryman's house Ferryman's house Fishing building/structure Fish farm; Fishery building; Fishing hut; Ice house; Salmon fishery. See also ‘Barrage/dam/sluice/weir’ for fish passes and weirs. Ford Ford Hotel Hotel House House. See also ‘Pre-1700’ for earlier houses, castles etc. 5 Industrial building/structure Brickfield; Brick kiln; Brick yard; Chimney; Clay pit; Concrete block works; Corn & flour mill; Corn kiln; Corn mill; Diatomite works; Distillery; Factory; Flax mill; Flax spinning mill; Gasworks; Industrial railway; Mill race; Peat works; Pipe; Potato factory; Pottery; Quarry; Sand processing site; Saw mill; Shirt factory; Store; Weaving factory; Woollen mill. See also ‘Railway building/structure’ for industrial railways. Jetty/Pontoon Jetty; Landing stage; Pontoon Landing place Landing place Lock Lock Lock/Sluice keeper’s house Lock keeper's house Military building/structure Airfield; Military building; Pillbox; Prepared demolition chamber Mole Mole; Training bank Navigation marker Leading light; Navigation marker Pier/Quay Pier; Pier-Slipway (i.e. sloping pier); Quay Pre-1700 Battle site; Bawn, Bullaun; Castle; Church; Crannog; Cross; Earthwork; Enclosure; Find spot; Graveyard; House; Mass rock; Monastery; Motte; Mound, Settlement; Souterrain; Standing stone Pump house Pump house; Wind pump Railway building/structure Contractor's railway; Industrial railway; Level crossing house; Railway; Railway siding; Railway station. See also ‘Bridge (rail)’ for railway bridges. River drainage deposit Cairn (river drainage) Slipway Pier-Slipway (i.e. sloping pier); Slipway Utility block Utility block Water gauge station Water gauge station Table 1.2 Site classification categories. Some sites have more than one type of built feature; e.g. Newferry Diatomite Works (WIIAH 4276) encompasses not only the diatomite works where the clay was processed, but also an industrial railway, quay and water pump. Such sites have multiple classifications, in this case ‘Industrial building/structure’, ‘Pier/Quay’, and ‘Pump house’. 1.5 Computer Databases All the data collected during the course of the paper and field surveys were transferred to Access 2000 and MapInfo computer databases for the purposes of analysis and outputting in both hard-copy and digital formats. Access database The data were arranged into Site Records, one for each site. Each Record contains a wide range of data fields: 6 • • • • • • • • • • • Site number Name Site type Waterway link (check box) Address (townland, postal town, county) Ownership IG and ITM Grid east/north co-ordinates History Surveyor Survey date Completeness • • • • • • • Condition Description Heritage interest (check boxes) Evaluation Significance Action Statutory protection Other databases Action References Photographs Both Irish Grid (IG) and Irish Transverse Mercator (ITM) grid co-ordinates are given. The former were generated using MapInfo and then converted to the latter using the Ordnance Survey Ireland batch co-ordinate converter (downloadable from www.osi.ie). The ITM system will eventually supersede IG and has already been adopted by Waterways Ireland for the entirety of the island of Ireland. Fuller details of each field will be found in Appendix 2. Using Access’s sort and filter tools, the database can be analysed using various selection criteria either singly or in combination. The database’s ‘Report’ mode also enables a hard-copy of the site inventory to be produced, with all the above data fields as well as actual photographs. MapInfo database Each site was also digitally overlaid on Ordnance Survey maps using MapInfo. As noted above, this program was used to determine each site’s Grid co-ordinates to the nearest meter (i.e. to a precision of 12 figures). This is more consistent and repeatable way of ascertaining a site’s location than doing it in the field, where there may be no visible remains or access to the actual site is sometimes not possible. The co-ordinates thus generated are likely to be within 20m of those of the actual site. All the data contained in the Access database were included in the MapInfo tables except for the ‘history’, ‘description’ and ‘evaluation’ fields as these are memo-type fields and not transferable; nor were the reference and photograph data transferred. Once inputted into the MapInfo database, the site can then be overlaid on OS maps at various scales and order to see where exactly they are located and to gain an overview of their distribution (fig 1.3). By clicking on a particular site, all its recorded data can also be viewed (fig 1.4). Moreover, using filters, sites meeting specific criteria (e.g. sites of a particular type and/or in a particular ownership) can also be selected in order to analyse their distribution; this facility has been used extensively to generate the various thematic maps used in the remainder of this report. 7 Fig 1.3 Surveyed sites overlaid on Discovery Series OS map. Fig 1.4 Example of site distribution map for Portglenone area. It also shows the data retrieved for site 4260 (Portglenone Bridge) using the ‘Info Tool’ facility in MapInfo. 8 2. PREHISTORIC AND HISTORIC SETTLEMENT Numerous archaeological finds attest to the occupation of the Lower Bann valley over the past 10,000 years. These take the form of artifacts dredged from the river and upstanding monuments along the valley corridor; a total of 46 sites of pre-1700 date were recorded within the study area (fig 2.1). Fig 2.1 Map of pre1700 sites along Lower Bann. 2.1 Prehistoric period Mesolithic and Neolithic ages The earliest material found on the Bann dates from the Mesolithic period (c.8000 - 4000 BC). Indeed, the Bann is one of the richest areas for such artifacts in the whole of Ireland on account of diversity of its micro-environments and the opportunities created by the civil engineering works along the river for the discovery and recovery of this material by archaeologists over many decades. Extensive analysis of this material has been carried out, notably by Professor Peter Woodman, and the reader is referred to the bibliography in Appendix 1 for references to more in-depth discussions, for example on 9 the differences between the Early and Late Mesolithic and between the Mesolithic and Neolithic in terms of their material remains and site distributions. During the Mesolithic period, people relied exclusively on hunting, fishing, and gathering for their survival. Because of the seasonal nature of these resources, people were forced to move according to where and when a particular foodstuff was most readily available. The technology used to exploit them was based on wooden implements and tools fashioned from flint (this occurred as lenses in the chalk of the Antrim Plateau, and as washed-out nodules in the river). Because of their lifestyle, the material remains from this period are in the form of temporary encampments which are now indicated by scatters of burnt charcoal, bones, and flint implements (fig 2.2). Fig 2.2 A selection of Early Mesolithic flint artifacts: axes, scrapers, burins and scalene triangles. The right-hand object is a reconstructed harpoon made up of flint microliths inserted into a wooden shaft (after Mallory and McNeill, 1991, figs 115 to 1-22). Whilst the Early Mesolithic period is characterised by microlithic flints used to make composite implements, the Late Mesolithic sees the widespread adoption of larger flint artifacts, notably the butt-trimmed flake, or ‘Bann flake’ as it is commonly known because of the thousands which have been found along the river, such as at Newferry. Mudstone axes were also used (fig 2.3). Fig 2.3 Left: Bann flake. Right: Mudstone axe (after Mallory and McNeill, 1991, figs 1-29 and 1-30). The Neolithic period (‘new’ Stone Age) spans the period from c.4000 to 2500 BC and marks the inception of agriculture in the form of cultivated crops and domesticated livestock. Whilst wild plants and animals continued to be exploited, increasing reliance on agriculture enabled permanent settlement. Flint tools continue to be used, but this period is also characterised by the appearance of pottery. The increasing attachment of people to particular areas is reflected in the use of megalithic burial tombs. Since the later 1800s, a number of amateur archaeologists have collected thousands of artifacts from these two periods along the Lower Bann. Ballymena-based W.J. Knowles was particularly active throughout north-east Ulster in the later 1800s, and much of his attention was focused on the Culbane district, on the west bank between Portglenone and Newferry. At that time, there was much diatomite cutting for the manufacture of 10 locally-made bricks and a wide range of artifacts characteristic of the Mesolithic and Neolithic periods was uncovered as a result of these workings, e.g. flint cores, flakes, arrowheads, blades, scrapers and polished stone axes. The diatomite cuttings on the east side of the river at Newferry were another rich hunting ground for archaeologists in search of artifacts (fig 2.4). . Fig 2.4. Amateur archaeologists examining prehistoric hearths in diatomite workings at Newferry (Woodman et al, 2006, fig 7.8). The dredging of the Lower Bann in the 1930s also resulted in the discovery of numerous prehistoric artifacts in the dredged spoil thanks to the tireless efforts of the next generation of amateur archaeologists such as Coleraine-based Andrew May. Countless artifacts doubtless escaped notice due to the vast scale and mechanised nature of the dredging operations. Their invisibility was further compounded by the subsequent planting of trees on many of the dumps by the Department of Agriculture. In 1994, the harvesting of the timber on a dump at Kilrea by Forest Service afforded archaeologists from the Ulster Museum the opportunity to survey it before replanting and resulted in the discovery of several Late Bronze Age artifacts. The following year, a combination of archaeological excavation and metal detection on a dump at Gortgole, north of Portglenone, uncovered flint flakes, a Bronze Age axe and sword, and a piece of Hiberno-Viking ring money of Early Christian date. The artifacts thus collected found their way into private and public collections, notably the Ulster Museum and National Museum of Ireland. The Ulster Museum alone holds some 1773 archaeological objects form the Lower Bann. An analysis of this database by Rory McNeary showed virtually all to be of pre-Medieval date and 76% (1339) could be attributable to the Mesolithic period. The vast majority (1713) were made of flint and only 46 of metal. Toome was, by far the most prolific findspot with 2855 hits, followed by the Portna-Kilrea-Culmore area (841 hits), and Portglenone-Glenone (375 hits). The predominance of Mesolithic objects reflects the importance of the river and its environs at that time. However, because most of the objects were recorded to townland level only, rather than more specifically, and the fact that they are split up over many collections, it is now difficult to interpret the variations in their distribution pattern. This difficulty is compounded by the fact that the proximity of archaeologists to opportunities to collect material (such as in diatomite workings and during river dredging operations) has also had a strong bearing on the type and location of the material collected. Several specific areas are particularly rich in Mesolithic and Neolithic material. The sand dunes at the Bann estuary (4019, 4020) contain much evidence of temporary camps from these periods in the form of charcoal-rich soil horizons and scatters of worked flints and pottery (fig 2.5). The discovery of over 2000 flint artefacts and associated debris on the Portstewart dunes indicates that tools were sometimes fabricated as well. Such sites are generally buried and only become apparent after storms when sand blows uncover burnt soil lenses. They are sometimes also unearthed during landscaping works to the golf courses which now extend over parts of the two dune complexes. 11 Fig 2.5 Numerous flint artifacts have been found in the sand dunes west of Portstewart (left) and east of Castlerock (right). The best known Mesolithic site is that at Mount Sandel (4086). This unassuming flat open area just north-east of the much more prominent earthwork of the same name (4087) was excavated by Peter Woodman of the Ulster Museum in the 1970s in advance of a nearby housing development. He uncovered traces of up to seven circular huts. They were dated to 7600-7900 BC, making them the earliest man-made habitable structures yet recorded anywhere in Britain and Ireland up to then. Hundreds of microliths, countless hazel nut shells, and bones of fish, birds, pigs, hares and deer were also discovered. This abundance of such specific material, coupled with the fact that at least four of the huts had been rebuilt, indicated that this was an encampment which was visited repeatedly as part of the seasonal round. The discovery of Neolithic artifacts as well supported the view that the Mesolithic way of life - hunting and gathering - continued to some extent after the inception of agriculture. Just downstream from Mount Sandel is Sandel Ford (4083) where numerous prehistoric artifacts have also been found over several centuries. William Gray, writing in 1888, noted "At this ford a large number of worked flints were found and their general character very much resembled the worked flints from the field at the back of Mount Sandel and the peculiar form of rough celts of flint were well represented here". Flint artifacts continue to be found and the fact that they are not water damaged implies that they originated from the locality. Flint artifacts of Mesolithic and Neolithic date have also been found at Camus Ford (4116), in fields above Portnakim Ford near Portglenone (4252), at Newferry (4278), on Coney Island in Lough Beg (4293), and in the vicinity of the Toome Canal (4336) where there was once a fording point where the Bann emerges from Lough Neagh. Whether because of the congregation of people at these crossing points, or because of the shallowness of the river at such points, fording places have also yielded copious material dating from later archaeological periods as well. A number of dug-out canoes have been found along the Bann estuary, including one at the confluence with the Bann Brook at Grange More (4021). Another was also found south of Toome, but their precise dates are uncertain. Bronze and Iron Ages The Bronze Age runs from c.2500 to 500 BC and sees the inception of the use of metal (bronze and gold) and new pottery types (e.g. beakers and food vessels). Whilst certain types of megalithic tombs remain in use, we now also see single burials (both inhumations and cremations), in pits and stone-lined cists. Stone circles and standing stones are also characteristic of this period, as are mounds of burnt charcoal and stone which are interpreted as cooking places (fulachta fiadh). A Bronze Age sword was found by anglers on the east shore of Lough Beg at Ballyscullion East (4292). Prior to the lowering of the lough in the mid-1800s, this find spot would have been well out from the shore. This suggests that the sword was either accidentally dropped from a boat or was a ritual deposit. 12 Also in the same townland is a standing stone which could also be from the same era (fig 2.6). It now serves the rather more prosaic use of a cattle rubbing post. Fig 2.6 Standing stone at Ballyscullion East (4283). The Iron Age runs from c.500 BC to 450 AD and, as its name suggests, marks the inception of the use of iron. Few remains are presently known from this era, possibly because of a lack of recognition by archaeologists. The best known artifact from this period is the so-called Bann disc which was discovered in March 1939 during dredging of the river in the vicinity of Camus Ford, between Camus Graveyard and Loughan Island (4116). This 10cm diameter bronze disc was decorated in the La Tƒne style and has been dated to between the first and third centuries AD (fig 2.7). Whilst it may have been lost accidentally, it has been suggested that it was deliberately deposited in the river as a votive offering to a water god. This ford’s continuing importance into historical times is reflected in the strategic positioning of an earthwork (4110), motte (4111), and castle (4115) overlooking the ford on the right bank. Fig 2.7 The Bann Disc with its La Tƒne embellishment is now the emblem of the Ulster Museum. 2.2 Medieval period Early Medieval Period This period runs from c.450 AD to the coming of the Anglo-Normans to Ireland in the late 12th century and is also known as the Early Christian Period as it coincides with the coming of Christianity to Ireland. Small farmsteads enclosed by one or more circular banks and ditches (know as raths), are common in this period, as are cashels (farmsteads enclosed with circular stone walls), crannogs (farmsteads on man-made platforms in lakes), souterrains (underground passages), and ecclesiastical sites. Apart from the modern era, there are more visible monuments from this period in Ireland than from any other. Craig-an-Ariff Fort, an enclosure possibly dating from this period, formerly stood in Carnanee townland but was destroyed during 19th century quarrying operations (4025). 13 Given its strategic location overlooking the river and Sandel Ford, it is not impossible that Mount Sandel Fort also originated during this period (4087). Several enclosures survive elsewhere along the Bann, at Landagivey (4151), Carranroe (4173), and Ballymaconnelly (4209); of these, only the last survives above ground (fig 2.8). Without excavating them, they are impossible to interpret and it is quite possible that some or all of them are of much later date, if not natural features. A souterrain survives in the grounds of Moore Lodge (4204). Its entrance has been blocked and there are now no visible remains. Fig 2.8 This tree covered rise above the east bank of the Bann at Ballymaconnelly may be an Early Medieval settlement feature. McGreary’s Island (4185) may have been a crannog but nothing of it survives. Its exact whereabouts is unknown other than that it was on the river near the Vow Ferry. Shemy’s Island on Lough Beg is also said to be a crannog (fig 2.9). Although now accessible by land, it would originally have been entirely surrounded by water. Fig 2.9 Shemy’s Island (4286) is marked by shrubs and trees rising above the reclaimed bed of Lough Beg. Turning to ecclesiastical sites, St Patrick reputedly founded a monastery at Coleraine around 450 AD, with St Carbreus as its first bishop. The precise location of this foundation is uncertain, but it is believed to have been in the vicinity of the present St Patrick’s Church of Ireland on the east bank. Camus Graveyard (4106) is on the site of a monastery though to have been established in the later 6th century AD and which was associated with St Comgall's monastery at Bangor, Co Down. After abandonment, the surviving buildings were dismantled and their stones used to build the wall around the graveyard, which is still in use. Fortunately the shaft of the high cross associated with the original monastic settlement survives (fig 2.10). It is the only such cross in Co Londonderry and the only tangible evidence of an Early Christian ecclesiastical site within the survey area. A carved stone fragment salvaged by the Ulster Museum from a farmhouse at Drumeil (4164) may have come from this monastery originally. Church Island, on Lough Beg, is also said to mark the site of a monastery founded by St Thaddeus (4291). 14 Fig 2.10 The elaborately carved sandstone shaft of Camus High Cross, with the river in the background. Later Medieval Period This period begins with the arrival of the Anglo-Normans in Ireland in 1169 and ends with the start of the reign of James I (James VI of Scotland) in 1603. Diagnostic of this era are the mottes with their flat-topped, steeply-sided defendable earthen mounds. Some mottes had larger, but lower flat bailies beside them surrounded by a bank and ditch where the actual permanent settlement would have been. The Anglo-Normans led by John de Courcy arrived in Coleraine area in the 1170s and established bases in the vicinity of Coleraine - at Ballycairn, Gallows Hill, and possibly also Mount Sandel (fig 2.11). Because this last site has been subjected to so much later disturbance, it is now difficult to tell to what extent, if any, it made use of an existing earlier earthwork. Fig 2.11 Far left: Ballycairn Motte (4030). Left: Mount Sandel (4087). The lands occupied by de Courcy around the coast of counties Down and Antrim became the Earldom of Ulster and were subdivided amongst the Earl’s chief retainers who, in turn, erected their own mottes and attendant settlements. The earthwork at Mill Loughan, overlooking Camus Ford, appears to have an attached bailey and was possibly one such a motte (4111). 15 During the Earldom, Coleraine became the region’s principal town due, in no small measure, to its access to the sea and therefore to trading ports in Britain and elsewhere. The Dominicans followed in the Anglo-Normans’ wake and established St Mary’s Priory near St Patrick’s former monastery in 1244. Along with one at Newtownards, this was the earliest Dominican friary in Ulster. No visible traces survive as the Diamond Shopping Centre now stands on its site. The Earldom of Ulster was largely confined to the coastal areas of counties Down and Antrim. However, some mottes lie outside its boundaries and are therefore presumed to have been built by native Gaelic lords such as the O’Cahans who controlled much of the land west of the Lower Bann. There are also a number of enigmatic earthen mounds along the Lower Bann corridor, but which, if any, were mottes is by no means clear. It has been suggested that some were actually post-Medieval signal stations, and that others, such as Knockantern (4103) and Ballymaconnelly (4209), are natural rather than man-made. The dates and functions of the two mounds on Loughan Island (4118, 4121), and the ones at Colebreene Upper (4132) and Glenstall (4139) are also uncertain. By the end of the 14th century, the influence of the English crown had largely waned outside the towns such as Carrickfergus and most of Ulster was controlled by Gaelic lords. Drumtarsy Castle, at Coleraine, was an important O’Cahan stronghold. During the 15th and 16th centuries, various tower houses were erected elesewhere, such as the ones at Castle Roe (4099), Fish Loughan (4115) and possibly also at Toome (4332); there also appears to have been a timber stronghold on Loughan Island (4120). 2.3 Post-Medieval period This period witnesses the Plantation of Ulster in the early 1600s which signified the takeover by English and Scottish colonists of lands previously held by the Ulster Earls and Gaelic lords. In 1603, James VI of Scotland succeeded Queen Elizabeth I as ruler of England (becoming James I). The following year he put Thomas Philips in charge of the small settlement which had evolved around the erstwhile abbey at Coleraine. Following the flight of the Earls in 1607, all of Ulster west of the Bann was confiscated by the Crown. To control his newly acquired lands and prevent a repetition of the attempt by Spain in 1588 to invade Britain through the ‘back door’ of Ireland, James resolved to settle this territory with loyal English and Scottish ‘planters’. Accordingly, in 1610, he divided up much of Co Tyrone and all the lands between the Bann and Foyle (formerly O’Cahan lands known as the County of Coleraine) amongst 12 London livery companies. These organisations comprised craftsmen, merchants and artisans incorporated by Royal Charter as self-regulating guilds. James’ grant was conditional upon the guilds establishing villages, colonising them with British settlers, and developing a market economy. Creation of Co Londonderry The London companies wished to include the town of Coleraine and its hinterland in their plantation scheme. St Mary’s had been confiscated by Henry VIII in the 1540s and now belonged to Sir Thomas Philips. He surrendered his holding to the Crown in exchange for lands at Limavady and Toome. Sir Randall MacDonnell, who had been 16 granted much of Co Antrim by James in 1603 also agreed to surrender a hinterland of about three Irish miles (6km) around the town. The Liberties of Coleraine, as this area was known, were then allocated along with the town of Coleraine and the fishing rights of the Bann to the “Society of the Governor and Assistants, London, of the New Plantation of Ulster, within the Realm of Ireland”. Subsequently known as the Honourable the Irish Society, this body was not a guild, but rather a management company charged with administering the Plantation on behalf of James I. He also granted the Society the town of Derry and Foyle fishery. Coleraine’s daily affairs were overseen by a Corporation which received its Royal Charter in 1613. In the same year, the King created County Londonderry by amalgamating the new Liberties on the east side of the Bann with the former County of Coleraine on its west side. This explains why Coleraine and its hinterland are not in Co Antrim as geography would seem to dictate (fig 2.12). The North-West Liberties of Londonderry which formerly lay in Co Donegal and the Barony of Loughinsholin in Co Tyrone were also put into the new county. Fig. 2.12 The boundary of Co Londonderry east of the Bann (in purple) coincides roughly with a radius of three Irish miles (6km) around the centre of Coleraine (blue circle). Plantation villages Apart from the Irish Society, six of the London companies were granted lands along the Lower Bann. From north to south they were: (1) the Clothworkers with a headquarters at Articlave, (2) the Merchant Taylors focused on Macosquin, (3) the Ironmongers at Agivey and subsequently Garvagh, (4) the Mercers at Movanagher and then Kilrea, (5) the Vintners at Bellaghy, and (6) the Salters at Salterstown and then Magherafelt (fig 2.13). Smaller tracts of land were also given to the Church and to native freeholders. Fig 2.13 Villages of the London companies with Co Londonderry. Key: B – detached bawn; C – Coleraine; F – garrison fort; L – Londonderry; P – Sir Thomas Phillips’ manor and tenant village of Limavady (Blades, 1986, fig.1). 17 Whilst these settlements were reliant primarily on agriculture and trade, the Lower Bann’s natural riches – woodland, salmon and eels - would doubtless have been a considerable economic draw for these companies. The administrative headquarters of the Clothworkers’ Guild was at Articlave (near Castlerock), but it also owned the former O’Cahan stronghold of Drumtarsy Castle on the west bank at Coleraine. The castle was superseded by Jackson Hall (4057) which was built, along with a bawn, by William Jackson, one of the Guild’s tenants, around 1680. It became known as the Manor House and was last used as offices by Londonderry County Council before being demolished in 1984. Further upriver, a manor house, bawn and village were built between 1611 and 1618 by the Mercers’ Company at Movanagher (3196). Thomas Raven’s map of 1622 shows a fortified house and bawn, eight houses, and a watermill (fig 2.14). Fig 2.14 Raven’s map of Movanagher showing houses, castle and bawn (top right) and water-mill bottom right). A contemporary description noted the manor house as being "of lyme, loame and stone, 42ft long, 26ft broad, two storeys high, slated and cellared". The bawn was of identical construction was 120ft square, 3ft thick and 12† ft high. Raven’s map shows four of the houses to be of half-timbered construction (as one might find in England). At that time, Movanagher had a population of three freeholders, 52 British and 145 Irish men (and families). Despite this degree of integration with the natives, the settlement was sacked during the rebellion of 1641-42. The Mercers abandoned it and moved to Kilrea. Despite its relatively short life, substantial vestiges of the castle and bawn still survive to this day, incorporated into a farmyard (fig 2.15). Fig 2.15 Although now reduced in height, the bawn at Movanagher is substantially intact and incorporates two of its original four corner turrets. The ground floor of the fortified house survives inside. 18 Portna House (4236) was the scene, in January 1642, of the slaughter of soldiers under the command of Archibald Steward, agent to the Earl of Antrim by the rebels. Bellaghy was also wiped out during the rebellion, but Coleraine, where many of the planters had fled to seek refuge, managed to hold out during its four month siege. 2.4 Development of Coleraine Under the terms of its grant, the Irish Society had to enclose Coleraine and establish a market within seven years of its charter commencing. A map prepared by Lord George Carew in 1611 shows the rapid progress of this work, with a rampart enclosing the streets laid out on a grid centred on the Market Place (now the Diamond; fig 2.16). Going clockwise from its north-west end, the rampart, which was of earth with an external moat, followed the present-day Mall and Church Lane as far as the north-east end of St Patrick’s Church, then cut south along Society Street to its junction with New Row. From here it ran west along Blind Gate Street, then north-west along Abbey Street and down what was once Ferry Quay Street to the river. There were two gates into the town – the King’s Gate along the east side (21) and Blind Gate at south (22). Houses had already been completed along some streets such as 17 16 15 14 18 25 1 2 20 4 3 5 6 7 8 19 21 10 9 12 13 11 23 22 24 Fig 2.16 Map of Coleraine, 1611. Key: 1- Market Place; 2- Bridge or quay into the Bann, 60ft x 12ft; 3House adjoining old Abbey, 72ft x 27ft; 4- House for two smiths; 5- Foundations and frames for 14 tenements; 6- A row of 10 tenements nearly finished; 7- Foundations for 12 houses and frames almost ready for erection; 8- A row of 5 tenements, 3 finished and 2 nearly finished; 9- A new row of 30 tenements; 10- A row on the west side of the former street containing 23 tenements; 11- A row of 12 tenements of stone walls; 12- A brew house, 70ft x 20ft; 13- Palisades intended to be built into river; 14The old Castle of Coleraine. 15- A wharf and stairs to go down to the river; 16- Three tenements for a butcher smith and glazier; 17- Postern gate; 18- The old bridge over the brook; 19- A five mill dam, with a mill house for millers; 20- the new Pound; 21- Port [gate]; 22- Port; 23- The lime kiln; 24- The Shipwreck House; 25- The Market Place (of Saturdays). After Girvan, 1999. 19 New Row and others were in progress. By way of encouragement, tenants were given monetary grants to construct the houses and long leases at nominal rents. The principal house adjoined the old abbey (3) and belonged to Sir Thomas Phillips. Below it on the riverbank was the quay, a timber structure some 60ft long by 12ft wide. There was also a wharf a short distance downstream on the same side (15). An animal pound (19) and watermill (20) lay just outside the East (King’s) Gate. On the opposite bank were Drumtarsy Castle (14) and the site of a weekly market (25). Thomas Raven’s map of 1622 shows a similar plan, but now with the addition of a bridge over the river which probably followed the line of the early 14th century one. After the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII c.1540, St Mary’s Priory (4065) reverted to non-ecclesiastical uses and was eventually cleared in the later 1600s to make way for redevelopment. It was always the intention that the town’s defences would be strengthened and to this end work started on what became known as the ‘Citadel’ around 1630. It was situated in the vicinity of where the Bann Rowing Club now stands on Hanover Place (4066). However, it was never completed and the vestiges of its 3m high earthen platform were eventually cleared away in the 1830s. The Irish Society’s objective of establishing a market town at Coleraine appears to have succeeded. A document of 1637 records that upwards of ten ships were based here and their construction is also noted. A customs house had also been established by this time in the Market Square. Unlike some smaller plantation settlements such as Movanagher, Coleraine successfully held out against the Irish during the 1641 rebellion and was eventually relieved by General Robert Monro in 1642. Although taken by Cromwellian forces in 1648 it did not, unlike Derry, suffer much physical damage. A timber bridge was erected across the river to Killowen in the early 1670s. In 1679, a new quay was constructed, probably in place of the one shown on the 1611 map. This was, in turn, superseded by yet another quay in the 1710s, still on the same bank but on the downstream side of the bridge. Adjacent to it, at the river end of Bridge Street, a new customs house was also erected. In addition to grain milling, other small-scale industries such as tanning and brewing had been established at Coleraine by the early 1700s. The town also became an important flax and linen market, serving the weavers and bleach greens in the surrounding area. Its reputation for the weaving of fine quality linens is reflected in them being termed ‘Coleraines’. Coleraine in the modern era Coleraine’s growing civic identity was manifest in the erection of a Town Hall in the Market Place in 1743 (and which was replaced by the present one in 1859). Around this time, the timber bridge was completely rebuilt, but now with more durable masonry abutments and piers. The 1831 Ordnance Survey map shows how the town had evolved since the early 1600s (fig 2.17). By now it had expanded beyond the confines of its ramparts on the east bank and also westwards beyond the far bank. Samuel Lewis, writing in 1837, noted that the town contained some 7650 inhabitants on both sides of the river. The town had its own Court, Member of Parliament and Poor House. Since 1830 it also had a purpose-built market place known as the Shambles (on the site of St Mary’s Priory). 20 Fig 2.17 OS six-inch map of Coleraine, 1831 (rescaled). The main imports at that time were textiles (woollen and cotton), iron, sugar, fish, coal, general hardware, ashes (for linen bleaching), and salt. The principal exports were oats, meal and flour, bacon, butter, flax and linen. Livestock, poultry, eggs and fruit were also traded through the out-port of Portrush, from which there were also regular steamer services to Glasgow and Liverpool. This harbour was constructed by Coleraine merchants in the 1820s to circumvent the restrictions placed on the size of their vessels by the sand bar at the mouth of the Bann. In 1835, the value of exports from Coleraine and Portrush jointly amounted to ‡105,685 and imports to almost ‡66,000 The town’s prosperity during the mid-1800s is reflected in the appearance of terraced housing, substantial detached houses, Union Workhouse, gasworks, churches of various denominations, a new court house and several sizeable schools (such as Coleraine Academical Institution). By 1844, the old timber Town Bridge had become unfit for purpose and was replaced with an elegant triple-span masonry bridge of finest Scottish granite (fig 2.18). At its west end, the Clothworkers’ Arms Hotel opened two years later. The railway arrived from Derry in 1853, and a rail link with Belfast and Portrush was established in 1855 (railways will be discussed in detail in chapter 8). 21 Fig 2.18 The new Town Bridge in late 1800s (4064). Note the ships berthed at the Quay on its downstream bank at its far end (NLI: Lawrence Collection). The town’s civic development went hand in hand with its industrial growth. A brewery had been set up on New Row in the 1780s and a distillery in Killowen in the early 1800s. A second distillery opened in Newmarket Street in 1820. A steam-powered flour mill began operations at Bannfield in the 1830s (where Tesco’s supermarket now stands). In the 1850s and ‘60s, steam power was also utilized to power a weaving factory opened on the Strand, a spinning mill at Bannfield, and saw mill at Beresford Place. Kennedy’s Foundry was established on the Mountsandel Road in the 1840s and expanded in the 1870s to become the largest such enterprise in the region. Shirt making was also an important industry in the later part of the 1800s. These various manufactories will be discussed in more detail in chapter 7. The upgrading of the entrance to the Bann at Barmouth in the 1880s and subsequent development of harbour facilities at Coleraine will be considered in the next chapter. 22 3. NON-TIDAL RIVER DRAINAGE AND NAVIGATION The Lower Bann Valley has been a corridor into and out of the heartland of Ulster since prehistoric times. Legend has it that Turgesius, a Viking chief, sailed up the river to Lough Neagh in the 830s AD en route to invading Armagh. The river drains out of the north-west corner of Lough Neagh, the largest freshwater lake in Britain and Ireland by surface area. Whilst its catchment is 910sq.km, its feeder lough draws its water from an area of 4840sq.km extending over five counties in Northern Ireland and one in the Republic. In combination, the river and lough drain water from almost 40% of the land surface of Northern Ireland (fig 3.1). Fig 3.1 Catchment of Lower Bann and Lough Neagh. 3.1 Drainage and navigational issues The geomorphologic peculiarities of Lough Neagh, its juxtaposition to the Lower Bann, and the extent of their combined catchments has created on-going issues relating to flooding and the utilization of the river for inland navigation. Lough Neagh sits in a very shallow basin such that even a small rise in water level due to prolonged rainfall will rapidly inundate extensive areas around its shoreline unless the excess water can be quickly discharged. However, it has only one outlet – along the Lower Bann at Toome – and it is along this channel that the run-off from a catchment over five times that of the river must flow. Until their relatively recent removal, numerous shoals along the riverbed, particularly at Toome and Portna, greatly impeded the river’s flow and therefore the rate of discharge of excess water from the lough. For these reasons, the Lough Neagh lowlands have always been prone to flooding, particularly around the lake’s south end. In prehistoric times, hunters and gatherers doubtless welcomed regular inundations of the land and the deposition of enriching sediments to sustain the varied ecology upon which they depended. However, with the development of permanent settlement and agriculture, flooding came to be viewed as a threat rather than a blessing, more especially with the inception of urbanisation and more intensive farming in the 1800s. The Parliamentary Gazetteer of 1844-45 noted: “The waters of Lough Neagh usually attain a surface elevation in winter about 7ft [2.1m] higher than that of summer; and 23 they, in consequence, effect wide-spread inundations every season, covering upwards of 50,000 acres [20,000ha] of good land, and a vast aggregate of bog-lands and morasses; while, about probably every 15 years, they achieve so great and expansive a flood as threatens to render a large portion of the peopled shores totally uninhabitable”. The need to discharge the water rapidly from the lough to alleviate flooding was countermanded by the aspiration to develop the Lower Bann as a navigable waterway. Various entries in the mid-1830s Ordnance Survey Memoirs for parishes along the Lower Bann allude to sail-assisted lighters, typically of 40-60 tons burthen and 5-6ft draft, bringing coal, iron, slates etc to Portglenone and Kilrea from Belfast via the Lagan Canal and Lough Neagh. Despite their relatively small size, these vessels were restricted to operating in the winter months and at periods of high water in the summer owing to the shallows encountered along the way. The rapids at Movanagher and the Cutts, downstream from Kilrea, were out of the question. Finding a satisfactory balance between flood alleviation and navigational improvements has been the focus of much debate and expenditure of millions of pounds (in today’s terms) over the past two centuries. 3.2 Developments up to the 1840s The 1700s and first half of the next century saw a number of proposals being made to alleviate flooding and improve navigation, but very few of which were realised. Eighteenth century schemes In the 1720s, the Bishop of Down and Connor, Francis Hutchinson of Portglenone Castle, petitioned the Irish Parliament to alleviate flooding by removing a rocky shoal in the vicinity of Portna. Work was apparently about to start but was abandoned when the bishop died in 1729. In 1763, the Irish Parliament granted ‡1000 towards improving the navigability of the Bann, but to whom it was made and precisely for what are also uncertain.1 The 1836 Ordnance Survey Memoir notes the New Cut as having been made “about a century ago” at the south end of Lough Beg (fig 3.2). It provided the river with a short cut into the lough and bypassed a meander around its south-west side. Whether it was excavated to improve the run-off along the river or its navigability (or both) is uncertain. If the OSM date is NEW CUT correct (i.e. 1730s), Hutchinson may well have been behind it; if not, it might be an outcome of Old river the work grant–aided in the meander 1760s. Fig 3.2 The New Cut at south end of Lough Beg (Ordnance Survey, 1831). 1 Public Record Office Northern Ireland: T3019/4768. 24 Earlier 19th century schemes In 1803, Sir Charles Coote, in his statistical survey of Co Armagh for the Royal Dublin Society, also advocated the benefits of making the Lower Bann navigable. Around the same time, Richard Owens, the engineer behind the Lagan Canal (opened in 1786), suggested lowering the level of Lough Neagh some 15 inches (38cm) in order to alleviate flooding. He proposed an artificial cut from Brockish Bay, on the Co Antrim side, to Lough Beg which he estimated to cost ‡10,000. In 1812, Thomas Townshend, Engineer to the Bog Commissioners in Ireland, took soundings at regular intervals along the Lower Bann between Lough Neagh and the Cutts at Coleraine. He concluded that the river could be made navigable along its entire length by constructing canals to by-pass the rapids, and also by removing the shoals along the river, all for an estimated cost of ‡100,000. Around 1820, the channel through the bar where the river exits Lough Neagh was apparently deepened to improve its navigability, but who carried it out is unknown. Perhaps the most ambitious scheme to date was that proposed in 1828 by Alexander Nimmo, the Scottish-born civil engineer. Charged with examining the feasibility of upgrading the link between the Newry Canal and the sea, he suggested that the existing summit-level canal between Lough Neagh and Newry might be replaced by a flat, lockfree channel cut through the drumlins between its two end points. The lough would then act as a gigantic feeder, its winter level would be lowered, and the water flowing along the canal could be harnessed for mechanical power at Newry. He also surmised that, for little extra effort, the navigation could be extended along the Lower Bann to Portglenone, thus creating a 60-mile (96km) link to Newry and the sea. The first bathymetric survey of Lough Neagh was carried out by Lieutenant Thomas Graves for the Admiralty in 1832, and published at 1:63,360 scale in 1835 (chart 5074). In 1836, Sir John Macneill, who was later to become one of Ireland’s most eminent civil engineeers, recommended to the Lough Neagh Improvement Company that the shoals at Portna be removed and that a combined drainage and navigation scheme would cost just under ‡105,000, not dissimilar to Townshend’s estimate some 25 years previously. Thomas Rhodes, a prominent canal engineer, concluded in a report to the Board of Works that the lowering of the lough and creation of a navigable waterway would not only bring up to 30,000 acres (12,000ha) of flooded land into cultivation, but also stimulate commerce and industry through the use of the waterway and the harnessing of its waterpower. As with all the other reports to official bodies, nothing more came of it. Drainage Act In 1842, a Drainage Act was passed “to promote the drainage of lands, and improvement of navigation and water power in connection with such drainage in Ireland”.2 Under its provisions, landowners could now petition the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland (established in 1831) to carry out such schemes, the costs of which would be met by the owners in proportion to the benefits they derived. The following year, Francis Giles, a London-based civil engineer, and James McCleery, formerly an engineer with the Lagan Navigation Company, surveyed the river with a view to making it more navigable. They proposed to bypass the rapids with canals, the locks of which would be 12ft wide by 70ft long (3.7m x 21.3m); these dimensions are the same as the Ulster Canal, opened the year before. 2 Drainage (Ireland) Act 1842 (5 & 6 Vict. c.89). 25 Although a prospectus was issued with a view to implementing the scheme, nothing came of it. This was fortuitous given the narrowness of the proposed locks, a major factor in the demise of the Ulster Canal. Despite this false start, the Drainage Act of 1842 paved the way for the first concerted attempt at government level to alleviate flooding and improve the Bann’s navigation. 3.3 MacMahon’s scheme In 1844, various landowners petitioned the Commissioners of Drainage for a survey of Lough Neagh and the Lower Bann with a view to improving its drainage and navigability as prescribed under the 1842 Act. The task of looking into their demands fell to John MacMahon, an experienced canal engineer who had joined the Drainage Department of the Board of Works the previous year. MacMahon’s challenge was to resolve the seemingly irreconcilable demands of drainage, navigation and fishing. If the level of the lough could be lowered its storage capacity would be increased, so reducing the frequency of flooding some 25,000 acres (10,000ha) of land in the drainage basin, particularly during the winter. Navigation, on the other hand, required a sufficient depth of water during the summer for boats not to be impeded at shoals. Even if the shallows were cut through, the faster currents resulting from the increased run-offs due to these flood alleviation measures could potentially hinder the upstream progress of boats. The trapping of salmon and eels necessitated the presence of weirs across the river, all of which also impeded the current and hindered traffic. However, given the substantial revenues generated by fishing, such structures also had to be accommodated, as far as possible, in any improvement scheme. MacMahon’s objective was therefore to lower Lough Neagh so that it could better accommodate the winter run-off, whilst also ensuring that there was an adequate depth of water in the river during the summer for navigational purposes. If the lough’s level was reduced to too low a level, expensive dredging and rock excavation would be required along the river to create a sufficient depth for boats. Conversely, if set too high, the lough’s winter storage capacity would be compromised. MacMahon’s proposals Following a detailed survey and assessment of the river between Lough Neagh and the Cutts, MacMahon published his initial proposals in 1845. His scheme entailed removing the bar at the Toome end of the lough and erecting a weir such that its summer level would be fixed at 46ft above low water ordinary Spring tide at Coleraine. This was 2ft (0.6m) lower than its previous summer average, and apparently the summer level which had been determined by John Killaly in 1826, presumably in connection with his work on the Ulster Canal. Relative to Coleraine datum, MacMahon calculated that this level would result in a consequential lowering of normal winter floods to 47†ft, rising to 48ft during heavy floods, and 48†ft in extreme ones (all relative to this datum). As the winter levels could be from 54ft to 56ft, his scheme would thus reduce the lough’s winter level by at least 6†ft (2m) and reclaim a significant acreage of land for agricultural purposes. Setting the weir’s crest at 45ft above Coleraine datum would give at least 8ft (2.4m) of depth along the waterway as far as the Cutts, assuming that 12in (30cm) of water was flowing over the weir and that the downstream weirs and channels were designed appropriately; this would give a sufficient depth for navigation during the summer months. Just as importantly, the reconfigured exit at Toome would also create sufficient 26 reserve storage in the lough for it to absorb winter run-offs. Navigation would thus be improved and flooding alleviated. Locks The length of the river between Lough Neagh and the Cutts is 30† mls (48.5km). Given an average height of the tidal river immediately below the Cutts of 4ft-3in (Coleraine datum), the average gradient is therefore 16† inches per mile (26cm/km). In theory, this hydraulic gradient is negotiable by boats. In practice, however, the river passes over a series of rapids, notably at the Cutts, Carnroe, Movanagher, Portna and Toome. Here the current is generally too strong in winter and too shallow in summer for vessels to pass. It was at these five points, therefore, that MacMahon proposed to construct locks, weirs and, where necessary, short lateral canals to bypass the rapids (fig 3.3). Fig 3.3 Locations of proposed locks. In theory, the overall height difference of 41ft-9in between the lough and tidal river should have been accommodated by a difference of just over 8ft (2.4m) at each of the five locks. In practice, the difference varied according to the size of the adjoining rapid. The smallest change in height was at Toome Lock, which was a mere 4ft (1.2m). Movanagher had the single biggest fall at 10ft 6in (3.2m). The fall at Portna was bigger – at 14ft 5in (4.4m) – but split over two successive chambers (table 3.1; fig 3.4). 27 2. Minimum weir crest level relative to datum 3. Summer water level at bottom of lock relative to datum 4. Minimum weir crest height above top cill of lock 5. Lock top cill level relative to datum [2-4] 6 Lock bottom cill level relative to datum 7. Fall in lock [5-6] Depth of water above bottom of lock [1-5; 3-6] Weir 1. Summer water level at top of lock relative to datum Lock Lock 1 2 1 Cutts 10ft 7in 10ft 1in 4ft 3in 7ft 6in 2ft 7in – 3ft 9in 6ft 4in 8ft 0in 2 Carnroe 17ft 1in 16ft 1in 10ft 7in 7ft 0in 9ft 1in 2ft 7in 6ft 6in 8ft 0in 3 Movanagher 27ft 7in 26ft 7in 17ft 1in 7ft 0in 19ft 7in 9ft 1in 10ft 6in 8ft 0in 4 Portna 42ft 0in 41ft 0in 27ft 7in 7ft 0in 34ft 0in 19ft 7in 14ft 5in 8ft 0in 5 Toome 46ft 0in 45ft 0in 42ft 0in 7ft 0in 38ft 0in 34ft 0in 4ft 0in 8ft 0in 3 4 5 8 7 6 Table 3.1 Height levels of weirs and locks. Datum is low water ordinary Spring tide level at Coleraine. Based on 1858 OPW drawings (PRONI FIN/9/2/4). 46ft 0in 42ft 0in Summer water level above low water Spring tide at Coleraine. Overall height difference = 41ft 9in 27ft 7in Lough Neagh 17ft 1in Lock 5: Toome Single lock, 4ft 0in 10ft 7in 4ft 3in Lock4: Portna Double lock, 14ft 5in Tidal Lock 1: Cutts Single lock, 6ft 4in Lock 3: Movanagher Single lock, 10ft 6in 8ft minimum water depth in all reaches (assuming 1ft depth of flow over weirs) Lock 2: Carnroe Single lock, 6ft 6in Weir Lock 28 Fig 3.4 Heights of weirs and locks along Lower Bann. Reaches between locks to scale, but vertical heights exaggerated. 8 MacMahon standardised the lock chambers to 130ft long by 20ft 6in wide (39.6m x 6.2m; fig 3.5); these could accommodate vessels up to 120ft by 20ft (36.6m x 6.1m). The locks were much wider that those on the other canals linking into Lough Neagh: 11ft on the Ulster Canal, 14ft 6in on the Coalisland and Lagan canals, and 15ft on the Newry Canal. Their size reflects the fact that it was now possible to use steam-powered vessels instead of the traditional horse-drawn barge. Similarly large locks were also being constructed around the same time on the Shannon and Newry Ship Canal to facilitate steamers. The same dimensions were also used by MacMahon when building the Eglinton Canal around Galway c.1850. Fig 3.5 Board of Works drawing of 1858 showing detail of Carnroe Lock. MacMahon also envisaged that water power could be harnessed for industrial purposes at each of the locks. In the event, however, only one mill race was actually constructed. This was at the Cutts but, although there had been a large flour mill hereabouts in the early 1800s, no actual mill was ever built to take advantage of this provision. Lateral canals Canals were created on the approaches to the locks and, where necessary, also extended to bypass the rapids as well (table 3.2). The canals’ combined length of 3.1km is, however, a mere 6% of the river’s 48.5km between the lough and the Cutts. At the Cutts and Carnroe, only short sections of canal – typically 100m long - were necessary to bypass the rapids. Here the canals were created by building a stone causeway (mole) between the intended canal and river, and then excavating the riverbed as required to and from the lock. Lock Length (m) 1. Cutts 102 2. Carnroe 117 3. Movanagher 1276 4. Portna 609 5. Toome 966 Total 3070 Table 3.2 Length of canal at each lock. At Movanagher, Portna, and Toome, by contrast, it was necessary to excavate the banks to form an artificial channel. The one at Movanagher was the longest, at 1.3km (fig 3.6); here MacMahon was mindful of the need for the canal “to be kept as near the 29 Canal Lock Weir Eel traps Eel traps Fig 3.6 Board of Works plan of Movanagher showing lateral canal (4198) bypassing eel traps and rapids. Note the mole at the canal’s upstream end, just above weir, and the lock at its downstream end. river-course as practicable, to save waste of land and severances”. The canal at Portna was only half as long, but considerably more expensive to construct owing to the excavation of a considerable amount of very hard rock. In all cases, the excavated material was used to consolidate the embanked island between the canal and river, the canal sides of which were also pitched with stone. The canals had a uniform cross-section of 36ft at bottom (but 50ft at Portna), with their sides sloped to give a 60ft wide by 8ft deep channel at summer water levels (18.3m x 2.4m). The bank between the canal and river was also to be 2ft above the highest winter floods. Because of the close proximity of the regulating weir to the upstream entrance to the canal at Movanagher, a mole extension was made to the bank to prevent boats coming too close to the weir and being swept over (fig 3.6 above). The Toome Canal was also extended well into deep water in the lough by means of a long mole. No such extension was made to the mole at the Cutts, and it is still dangerous to approach from the upstream direction when the river is in spate. As MacMahon envisaged only steam-powered vessels plying the Navigation, he did not allow for any towpath along it, as would have been the case had horse-drawn barges been the only option several decades before. Regulating weirs In the vicinity of each of the five sets of locks, substantial masonry weirs were erected across the river to impound the water and thus create a sufficient depth of water for navigating between the canalised sections. The weirs at Carnroe, Movanagher and Portna were of broadly identical design, zigzag in plan and 600ft along their crests (fig 3.7). The one at the Cutts was slightly shorter, at 523ft (159m), and incorporated four fish traps towards its centre. The weir at Toome was slightly curved in plan and measured 1200ft (366m) along its crest. Their lengths were set at these dimensions so as to handle the winter floods (estimated at 400,000cu.ft/ 11,300cu.m per minute) without backing up the water unduly. Fig 3.7 Carnroe Weir (4179). Left: Plan of 1858 showing lock and weir. Right: Weir from canal end. 30 In calculating the height of each weir, the summer level of the lough was the crucial determinant as it was necessary to maintain a sufficient minimum depth of water during that season so that boats did not run aground. The crest of Toome Weir was set at 45ft above Coleraine datum to give a one foot minimum depth of flow over it. The cill at the nearby lock was set 7ft (2.1m) below the top of the weir, thus giving an 8ft (2.4m) minimum depth of water along the canal between the lough and lock (assuming a 1ft depth of flow over the weir) - more than adequate for navigation. The crests of all the other weirs were also set 7ft above their respective lock cills (but 7ft 6in at the Cutts). With a one foot depth of flow over each weir, this also resulted in an 8ft depth of water between locks (q.v. table 3.1 and fig 3.4 above). A fish weir and elver slips were also incorporated into the face of each weir to allow the free passage of fish as stipulated by the Fisheries (Ireland) Act of 1842. Riverbed Whilst the major rapids were bypassed by means of lateral canals, there were numerous smaller shoals for which it was more cost-effective to remove than to bypass. This entailed both blasting away of rock and the dredging of clay, sand and gravel bars. It was also imperative to remove the bars at the exit from Lough Neagh and at both ends of Lough Beg to minimise any impedance to the flow, especially in winter (fig 3.8). Fig 3.8 Cross-section of Lower Bann in vicinity of Toome, as surveyed by John MacMahon in 1844 (appended to his 1845 report). He proposed to remove those sections of riverbed shown in red in order to enhance the river’s run-off and improve its navigability. The existing river levers are shown in blue. His proposed winter and summer levels are shown as red and purple dotted lines respectively. Their removal and levelling of the river bed between locks not only ensured an adequate navigational depth, but also increased the river’s run-off capacity thereby improving the drainage of the entire Lough Neagh basin. MacMahon stipulated that the Navigation channel was to be a minimum of 60ft (18.3m) wide. Provided this was achievable, it was unnecessary to excavate the entire width of the river. However, additional excavation would be required where the river was not wide enough to handle winter floods. 31 At Loughan Island, only the west branch of the river was to be excavated, whilst in Lough Beg, a 200ft (61m) wide channel marked by beacons and buoys would be needed. The entrance to the former river meander at the south end of the lough, which had been bypassed by the New Cut in the 1730s, was to be blocked to ensure that the flow was wholly directed along the dredged channel, thus ensuing its natural scouring and mimimising a build-up of sediment. Bridges At the time MacMahon was formulating his plans, the river was crossed by five road bridges – at Coleraine, Agivey, Kilrea, Portglenone and Toome. As his focus was on the non-tidal section of the river, the one at Coleraine did not concern him; he mentions in passing, however, that a 200yd canal with lifting bridge would be necessary to bypass it. At Agivey, a timber bridge had been newly erected in 1834. Here it was necessary only to insert an opening section at its eastern end (fig 3.9). This was also the case with the masonry bridge at Kilrea, although underpinning was also required because of the dredging. At Portglenone, the late 18th century masonry bridge was in a very poor state: "The entire structure is in a very ruinous condition; the piers have been founded on or near the compressible bed of the channel, and from unskilfulness in construction have yielded to an alarming extent, as the numerous settlements and fissures in this dislocated structure attest. The materials and workmanship are of the most inferior description, and no warranty, short of reconstruction, can be offered for its security. ... Destruction has got it Fig 3.9 Board of Works plan showing so firmly grasped that no mechanical expedient will Agivey Bridge with opening section at one end. long procrastinate its doom." Such was this bridge’s condition that the Grand Juries of counties Antrim and Londonderry agreed to meet the cost of its replacement. Again, there was to be an opening section at one end. It is of note that the existing bridge had seven arches, whereas the replacement had only three plus the Navigation span. Because there were now fewer piers, there was obviously less obstruction to the flow of the river. Toome Bridge was also impeding the river’s flow due to the thickness of its piers in relation to its nine spans. Here MacMahon proposed to underpin and remove all surplus material from the piers and abutments and also insert a lifting section at its Antrim end. Fish traps MacMahon proposed the replacement of the existing fish traps at the Cutts with four new ones, complete with free gap. He also proposed to move the eel traps at Portna downstream of the regulating weir; they would otherwise have impeded the Navigation as well as being drowned by the greater depth of water created by the weir. At Toome, the eel weir just above the road bridge was also moved further upriver so as not to obstruct the Navigation. 32 Collateral works Because the water level in Lough Neagh was to fall, it was also necessary to lower the floors of first locks chambers on the Lagan, Newry, Coalisland and Ulster canals. Various quays around the lough also had to be underpinned. Improvements were also to be made to the tributaries flowing into the lough and several new bridges constructed thereon. Feasibility In his 1845 report, MacMahon presents a cost-benefit analysis of his proposals. Excluding contingencies and interest repayments on loans, he estimated the cost of the scheme to be ‡163,486 (table 3.3). Item Cost (‡) % total Excavations 80,648 49 Locks (4 single + 1 double) 21,500 13 Bridges (4 no) 15,000 9 Weirs (5 no) 12,200 7 2600 2 31,538 19 163,486 100 Fishing interests Works in Lough Neagh and Upper Bann Total Table 3.3 MacMahon’s estimated costs of proposed scheme (to nearest ‡). As can be seen from this table, excavations along the bed of the river and formation of the lateral canals accounted for slightly under half the total cost. Within the confines of the Lower Bann, locks were the next most expensive item, at ‡3500 each (but ‡4000 for the one at the Cutts). Works to the bridges accounted for almost 10% of the total; the new one at Portglenone was the most expensive, at ‡8000, and was to be paid for by the Grand Juries of Antrim and Londonderry. The five regulating weirs accounted for just over ‡12,000 and cost between ‡2000 (at the Cutts) and ‡4800 (at Toome). The provision of new eel traps was a comparatively small expense, but the collateral works around the lough and its tributaries accounted for almost one-fifth of the total. Adding contingencies (10%) and interest, MacMahon estimated the total cost of the scheme to be just under ‡196,000. He also noted that carrying out the drainage and navigational works simultaneously was cheaper than doing so one after the other. MacMahon envisaged three significant benefits arising from his proposed scheme: (1) The reclamation of some 25,000 acres (10,000ha) of agricultural land currently subject to regular inundation, 90% of which was around Lough Neagh and its tributaries. He estimated that the rental value of each acre would be increased by six shillings, thus generating an extra annual income of ‡7500. (2) An increase in trade and commerce along the Navigation: “If … the waters of Lough Neagh be united to the port of Coleraine by a commodious navigation, the enterprising Coleraine merchants will have opened to them the markets of a large share of the produce of those districts impinging on the Lough, which are now … quite beyond their reach”. Were 30,000 tons of cargo to be carried the full length of the Navigation per year, with a toll charge of one (old) penny per ton per mile, the gross income from tolls would be ‡4000. 33 (3) The potential to harness waterpower for industry. Based on a summer discharge of 100,000 cubic feet of water per minute from Lough Neagh, he estimated that 2457 horse-power (1.8 MW) could be harnessed at Portna, 1606hp (1.2MW) at Movanagher, and 945hp (0.7MW) at both Carnroe and the Cutts. He reckoned that the water rights to this motive power were worth at least ‡21,000 per annum. Taking running costs into consideration, MacMahon postulated that an annual income of ‡14,180 would result from the increased land rentals, navigation tolls and water power rights – a return of almost 8% on the capital outlay. He optimistically stated: “Thus, in liitle more than 12 years from the completion of the undertaking, the project will work out its own redemption”. Implementation of scheme, 1847-59 A further parliamentary act was passed in 1846 which enabled the Board of Works to carry out drainage schemes on its own initiative rather than having to rely on the private sector.3 The schemes’ costs could be partly met by the government in the form of an outright grant and also by a treasury loan repayable through a levy on the beneficiaries by means of the rates (county cess). The landowners could, in turn, recoup their costs by increasing the rental on the reclaimed lands as they would now be less prone to flooding and therefore agriculturally more productive. Empowered by the 1846 legislation, the Board could now commence implementing MacMahon’s proposals. This they duly did over a 13-year period from 1847 to 1859. To spread the work, the river was divided into four sections - (1) Coleraine Division from the Cutts up to and including Agivey Bridge, (2) Movanagher Division from Agivey Bridge up to and including Kilrea Bridge, (3) Portna Division from Kilrea Bridge to just before Portglenone, and (4) Toome Division from Portglenone to Lough Neagh. Progress The scheme’s progress is detailed by Charles Ottley, its Resident Engineer, from 1848 onwards in the annual reports submitted to parliament by the Board of Works (table 3.4; Appendix 3). Work was carried out simultaneously on each section, with priority initially being given to the works at the Cutts and the canals at Movanagher and Portna which, when completed, could be used to ferry equipment and materials up and down to the various other site works. Portna was the last of the weirs to be started - in August 1854 - having been deliberately delayed to maintain a strong flow for as long as possible through Lough Beg to help scour the bed of the channel being dredged along it. Along the river, the priority was to excavate the intended Navigation channel to improve the river’s run-off capacity. This was followed by the removal of whatever else was necessary to give the river a sufficiently large cross section to cope with winter discharges without flooding. Where possible, two steam-powered dredgers were used, but where hard material was encountered, coffer dams were thrown up, pumped dry and excavated manually, doubtless assisted by gunpowder. In all over 1† million cubic yards of material were excavated. This was usually dumped on the adjacent banks, levelled, and then covered with soil to make it fit for cultivation. 3 Drainage (Ireland) Act 1846 (9 Vict. c.4). 34 Year 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 st 1 Division Cutts Weir Quay Lock Lock ho Agivey Navigation br Quay nd 2 Division Carnroe Weir Lock Lock ho Movanagher Lock Weir Lock ho Kilrea Quay Navigation br rd 3 Division Portna Lock Weir Lock ho th 4 Division Portglenone Bridge + Nav br Quay Toome Bridge + Nav br Lock Weir Quay Rail br + Nav br Lock ho Table 3.4 Progress of Lower Bann Scheme, ordered by Division and completion date. The stone used for the various weirs, locks and bank pitching came from the excavated material. It was supplemented by quarries at Tamlaght, near Movanagher (4190), and another near Toome. Exceptionally, brick from Coalisland was used for the lock (4333) and lock-keeper’s house (4328) at Toome. Problems encountered Despite the fact that the scheme was being carried out in the immediate aftermath of the great famine, finding labourers was sometimes problematic. Typically, over 1500 men were engaged at any one time on the scheme, but locals were sometimes otherwise engaged in seasonal activities such as harvesting and fishing. Wages were also an issue. In the Board’s report of 1854, it was noted that the Belfast – Ballymena railway was in the process of being extended to Coleraine. The going rate for a labourer was normally one shilling per day, but William Dargan, the railway’s contractor, was now paying his men 1s.6d. Consequently, Ottley remarked “we have been 35 obliged to give increased prices and wages to induce those we have had to remain upon the drainage works”. Flooding sometimes also delayed work. For example, the completion of the Cutts Weir had to be held over from 1850 until the following season owing to floods. Likewise, the Board noted that excavations at Carnroe could have been finished in 1852 “but for floods which came three months earlier than in 1851”. Works’ completion Sadly, MacMahon did not live to see his scheme in action, having died in 1851 with the bulk of it still to be completed. It was not until 1855 that the new Navigation’s weirs, locks, lateral canals, and road bridges were finished. Piled beacons were also erected between Coleraine and Kilrea the following year. By the end of the 1857 season, various quays and lock houses (all to a standard design) had also been built (fig 3.10). Fig 3.10 The brick lock house at Toome, now For all practical intents, work on the superseded and demolished (4328). scheme was now complete and the focus switched to Lough Neagh. A new quay and canal were built on the Six Mile Water at Antrim, and the outlets from its various other canals and tributaries altered to take account of the lough’s lower water level. On the Lower Bann Navigation, all that remained was to dredge a channel through Lough Beg and this was eventually finished in 1861. Plans of the various features along the Lower Bann Navigation, as the new waterway was called, were published by the Commissioners in 1858. They show that, by and large, the scheme was implemented as MacMahon had intended save for some minor variations. From the financial perspective, however, there was a significant divergence, the total cost having come to ‡264,000 – over ‡100,000 more than the original estimate. Regarding the structural variations, at the Cutts, for example, the lock was originally to have been on the right (east) bank, but it was actually built on the left side to be adjacent to an existing public road. All the locks were also originally designed with invert floors (a shallow upside-down arch) to prevent their sides from caving in. However, such an arch was found to be unnecessary at Portna once excavation revealed that the walls could be founded on solid rock. At the south end of Lough Beg, a pair of moles, each c.500m long, were constructed along each bank (4294). Their purpose was to confine the river to one channel, thereby enhancing its scouring effect and reducing the deposition of sediment as the water’s velocity diminished on entering the lough from the Lough Neagh direction. Whereas lifting bridges (bascules) were envisaged over the Navigation channels at each of the existing road bridges, cast-iron swivel bridges were actually constructed. These were manufactured by Thomas Grendon & Co of the Drogheda Iron Works (fig 3.11). Also not anticipated by MacMahon was the Carlisle Railway Bridge at Toome (4323), where the Cookstown Line crossed the river. Opened in 1856, this also required a swivel section over the Navigation channel. 36 Fig 3.11 Agivey Bridge (4142). A six-span timber road bridge (above) was built by William Bald in 1834. The Board of Works replaced an end span with a swivel bridge (left) over the Navigation in 1855. The rest of the bridge was replaced by a metal one in 1860. The swivel section was removed when the present bridge was built in the 1980s. Another change of plan was Toome Bridge which it had been initially proposed to underpin. In the event, it was replaced with a two-span metal girder bridge and a swivel section at its east end (fig 3.12). With only one pier on the main section of the watercourse, the new bridge impeded the water’s flow to a significantly lesser extent than before. Fig 3.12 Toome Bridge (4315). The late 1700s nine-arch masonry road bridge (left) was rebuilt as a threespan metal bridge (with opening section) in 1853 (right). In was replaced with a concrete bridge in 1968. Interestingly, no navigation opening was inserted at Coleraine Bridge, a triple-arch masonry road bridge which replaced a previous timber bridge in 1844 (fig 2.18). The size of vessels plying between Coleraine Harbour and the river above the Cutts was therefore limited to the air draft of the central bridge arch – 13ft 7in (4.14m) at low water spring tide. If forced to wait until low water to clear the bridge, a vessel might then have to await the incoming tide to ensure a sufficient depth to reach the first lock at the Cutts. Moreover, because the bridge has three arches, the current can be dangerously fast when the river is in flood, making it impossible to ply upstream. As regards the eel fisheries, the Board decided that it would be more prudent to buy out the various eel fisheries affected by the scheme rather than lay themselves open to compensation claims for loss of fish. Once the affected traps were rebuilt in new locations, they were leased out, although this proved problematic at Portna (4227) where cast-iron skeaghs were now being used instead of traditional hazel ones. In his 1845 report, MacMahon mentioned only one quay – at Toome (4321). This was a cut-in, at right-angles to the river, built by Lord O’Neill which the Board proposed to enlarge on the same alignment. In the event, it was replaced by a new one set parallel with the bank (4320), along with others at the Cutts (4094), Agivey (4141), Kilrea (fig 3.13), and Portglenone (4258). Fig 3.13 Kilrea Quay on downstream side of road bridge; the shed is a later addition (4210). 37 Two slips were also constructed near Portna to give livestock access to the river for drinking– at Gortereghy (4234) and Moneygran (4233); they appear, however, to have been obliterated by subsequent dredging in the 1930s. Water level changes The effect of the works was to lower the level of Lough Neagh by approximately 6ft (1.8m) and enabled upwards of 30,000 acres (12,000ha) of land around its shoreline to be reclaimed for agriculture. Land was also released around Lough Beg as a result of its drop in level, particularly so along its west and south-west sides. (fig 3.14). Such land is marked “Intake” on the 1854 OS maps. Three quays which were at the edge of Lough Beg in the 1830 OS map (4288-4290) were high and dry by 1854, although it was probably possible to use them if the reclaimed land in front of them was ever flooded. Fig 3.14 Comparing the shorelines of Lough Beg in 1830 and 1854 shows the land (in green) reclaimed as a result of the Bann Scheme. The river is marked in dark blue. 38 The early 1900s OS maps show the exposure of yet more land as a result of the water continuing to drop in the later 1850s and 1860s. As a consequence, it was also sometimes necessary to extend the various minor tributaries and drains out into the new shoreline. The so-called Bishop’s Canal at Ballyscullion (4285), on the western shore of Lough Beg, may have been one such alteration to an existing stream. 1830 shore 1905 shore Quay 1854 shore In the case of the quay at Ballyscullion, it was necessary to dig a channel out to the new shoreline sometime between 1854 and 1905 (fig 3.15). This may, in fact, have been the real Bishop’s Canal, the so-called one noted in the previous paragraph being no more than a drainage ditch. Lough Beg Fig 3.15 The changing shoreline at Ballyscullion Quay (4288). The level of the river also fell as a result of its excavation and dredging. The change in water level at the Cutts required the deepening of the head and tail races at Castleroe Mill (4097), replacement of its waterwheel with a larger one, and the underpinning of the building. 3.4 Kitty of Coleraine With the completion of the Lower Bann Navigation, the way was now open for the development of river traffic between Lough Neagh and Coleraine. The Lough was also the meeting point for four inland waterways – Newry Canal, Coalisland Canal, Lagan Navigation from Belfast, and Ulster Canal from Upper Lough Erne - so there was also scope to attract traffic to Coleraine from considerably further afield as well. In the event, the growth of traffic along the river was stymied by the navigable limitations of the river itself, the advent of the railways (chapter 8), and position of Coleraine; both Belfast and Newry were much better placed for the transhipment of goods conveyed along the existing canals to and from cross-channel ships. The only serious attempt to establish a regular service along the Lower Bann stemmed from the establishment of the Lower Bann Steamship Company by Thomas Barklie in 1862. The following year, his Harland & Wolff built steamer Kitty of Coleraine (fig 3.16) commenced a twice-weekly passenger and goods service between Coleraine and Toome.4 It called en route at the Commissioners’ recently built quays at Agivey, Kilrea and Portglenone. 4 The vessel is named after a well-known Irish folk song believed to have been penned as a poem by Edward Lysaght in the early 1800s. 39 Fig 3.16. Painting of Kitty of Coleraine (Coleraine Library), Unfortunately, with an engine of only 10hp (7kW), Kitty proved not powerful enough to go against the current at times of high water. To remedy the situation, Barklie introduced the Banshee in late 1868, but its draft was too deep at times of low water, just when the current would have been at its weakest. Both vessels were replaced by the Shamrock but it, too, proved unviable and all services were withdrawn in June 1869. Thereafter, the only traffic was of a small-scale industrial nature relating to the transportation of bricks and diatomite (chapter 6). 3.5 Developments and proposals, 1859 – 1925 The Board of Works divested its drainage and navigational responsibilities in the Lough Neagh drainage basin to three Trusts in 1859. Although it no longer had direct oversight of the Lower Bann, it nevertheless commissioned various schemes over the next 65 years to further improve the drainage of the lough. Drainage and Navigation Trusts In 1859, the Commissioners of Public Works transferred responsibility for the completed works to three separate bodies – the Lough Neagh Drainage Trust, Upper Bann Navigation Trust, and Lower Bann Navigation Trust. Each trust comprised representatives appointed by the Grand Juries within its respective geographical remit. These authorities not only had to repay the original government loan for the scheme out of their rates, but also underwrite the running costs for which they were now liable. The remit of the Drainage Trust extended along both the Upper and Lower Bann as far as the Cutts, as well as in and around the lough itself. On the Lower Bann, it was charged with maintaining the weirs and those sections of the river which were bypassed by the lateral canals. 40 The Lower Bann Navigation Trust had complementary responsibilities, namely the maintenance of the navigable sections of the river, the canals and locks, and the collection of tolls from lock users. Although MacMahon’s scheme ended at the Cutts, the jurisdiction of the Trust extended for a further 2.4km along the tidal section of the river as well, up to Coleraine Bridge. One of the first actions of the Lower Bann Navigation Trust appears to have been the commissioning of James Barton to carry out a detailed inspection of the works they had just acquired. In his report of the same year, Barton found that apart from the minor dredging works still being carried out by the Board of Works, the delivered scheme was fit for purpose. He concluded: “the works were a credit to the country as a public work … they bear strong testimony to the skill and discretion of those who carried them out”. Whilst the tripartite division of responsibilities between the trusts may have appeared logical on paper, in practice the arrangement proved to be very unsatisfactory. Lock tolls fell far short of expectation due to under-usage of the Navigation by commercial traffic. Not only did the sometimes strong currents prove to be too much for vessels heading upstream, but the railway also captured much of the Navigation’s potential goods traffic (chapter 8). Moreover, no takers could be found for any of the potential mill sites which MacMahon had envisaged at the locks. In 1861, a mere ‡11 was received for the grass harvested from the fenced-off sections reserved for the mills. With income falling far short of maintenance costs year after year, it was little wonder that the Lower Bann Navigation Trust was unenthusiastic in maintaining the waterway. In a letter of February 1880, the Drainage Trust informed the Navigation Trust that it had just spent ‡5000 on removing a shoal at Toome and asked for them to play their part by dredging the river between Toome and Lough Beg, the continual silting up of which would otherwise eventually undo its good work at Toome. In short, whilst the Navigation Trust was responsible for c.95% of the non-tidal portion of the river, in practice it was spending a miniscule amount compared with the Drainage Trust’s outlay on the mere 5% under its control. Manning’s report, 1877 The ‘Great Flood’ of February 1877 due to an exceptionally wet winter was the biggest inundation yet experienced since the completion of MacMahon’s scheme. Although actually lower than extreme floods prior to the scheme, it persisted for five months and caused extensive disruption in the Upper Bann district, particularly at Lurgan. Its impact seems to have been the catalyst for a reappraisal of the effectiveness of the drainage aspects of the Lower Bann Scheme. The Board of Works commissioned Robert Manning, its chief Engineer, to ascertain why the flood occurred, what could be done to prevent a recurrence, and the costs involved. Manning’s examination of the records revealed that there had, in fact, been flooding over the winter months in virtually every year since the mid-1860s. Soundings suggested that their cause was a gradual accumulation of sediment on the ToomePortna stretch of the river, thereby reducing the river’s discharge capacity as modelled by MacMahon. For example, the cross sectional area of the river at the south end of Lough Beg was 1660sq.ft at the completion of MacMahon’s scheme, whereas in May 1877 it was only 800sq.ft, less than half of this. He concluded that, whilst it was impossible to prevent floods arising from exceptional rainfall, dredging of the channel from Toome to Portna would probably alleviate any flooding arising from normal winter rainfalls. 41 Monck Commission, 1882 In 1882, a Commission chaired by Lord Monck reported on the impact of various inland navigations upon the drainage of their respective river basins. In regard to the Lower Bann Navigation, the commission noted that for the five years ending 30 June, 1880, the average annual expenditure on drainage was ‡1155, whereas the average annual income from tolls, wharfage, rents etc for the same period was a mere ‡94. The massive deficit was made up by the Grand Juries of Antrim and Londonderry. Monck doubted whether the financial situation would ever improve, particularly as there were now railways down both sides of the river. Although the first Barmouth Scheme, commenced in 1879, was designed to encourage shipping to and from Coleraine. (section 4.1), none of the incoming cargoes were ever transhipped up the Navigation as it was more efficient to dispatch them onwards by train. Monck also noted that the effectiveness of the weir at Toome in alleviating flooding was compromised by the need to maintain the depth in what he regarded as a “useless” navigation, and that the discharge along the river left much room for improvement. He concluded by recommending the installation of sluices at Toome Weir to better control the lough’s level. More radically, he also advocated the abolition of the Navigation and that Lower Bann be regarded solely as a drain, the control of which should be vested with the Drainage Board. Manning’s report, 1884 In 1884, Manning submitted an updated report on the drainage of the Lough Neagh District to the Board of Works. Unlike Monck, he was of the opinion that it would not be politically or financially feasible to abandon the Navigation and that the river’s use for this purposes was not necessarily incompatible with drainage. He concluded his report with four recommendations: (1) Dredging of the Toome-Portna section to bring it back to its state when MacMahon’s scheme was handed over; (2) Additional excavations at Portna and Loughan Island; (3) The erection of embankments along the lower parts of tributaries flowing into the Lower Bann; (4) The installation of sluice gates in the weirs at the Cutts, Portna and Toome to improve their effectiveness in discharging the water. Allport Commission, 1887 The Royal Commission on Irish Public Works, chaired by Sir James Allport, remarked in its report of 1887 that the Navigation Trustees had “neglected the work of dredging the channel very much” and that the Navigation did not pay. They noted that in the period 1878-80, the Drainage Trust had expended ‡6000 in maintaining those sections of the river under their jurisdiction, “without any beneficial result, because it was of no use unless the other portions of the river, which are in the charge of the Navigation Trustees, were also cleared out.” The Commission concurred with Lord Monck that, subject to the agreement of the Grand Juries of Antrim and Londonderry, the Navigation should be abandoned. 42 Gamble’s proposals and Bann Drainage Bill, 1887-89 On the basis of the Monck and Allport Commissions, and the County Antrim and Londonderry Grand Juries having agreed to abandon the Navigation, a bill was presented to parliament in 1889 to enact fresh proposals for the drainage of the Bann. These had been drawn up by John Gamble, newly appointed as Chief Hydraulic Engineer to the Board of Works, and who had surveyed the river in detail. He proposed to install sluice gates at Toome and lower all the weirs to enable the more rapid discharge of winter floods. Although the Navigation was to be abandoned, a minimum summer depth of 5ft was to be maintained and all the locks retained should it ever be revitalised. Selective dredging and embankation were also envisaged. To implement this scheme, the bill sought to replace the existing Drainage and Navigation Trusts with a single Bann Conservancy Board. It would be up to it to decide whether Gamble’s scheme should be progressed. If the board decided to do so, the government would give a grant of ‡20,000 and a repayable loan of ‡45,000 towards its ‡65,000 estimated cost. The bill passed the committee stage but was abandoned when it ran out of time during that parliamentary session. It was never reintroduced, possibly because Mr Gamble, its chief proponent, died of typhoid in 1889. Dick report, 1904 Frederick Dick, Second Engineer to the Board of Works, was tasked with formulating fresh proposals for alleviating flooding, and these he presented in 1904. He concluded that Gamble had underestimated the discharge from the lough and recommended that the Toome Weir’s crest be lowered. He also recommended further deepening of the channel from Toome and Portna over and above what Gamble had recommended. He also remarked in passing that “in order to render the Lower Bann Navigation a useful one, an opening span would have to be introduced into the bridge at Coleraine”. The estimated cost of his scheme was ‡150,000 - more than double that of Gamble. Binnie’s report, 1906 In 1905, the Board of Works commissioned Sir Alexander Binnie, Chief Engineer to London County Council and President-elect of the Institution of Civil Engineers, to make a detailed report on the drainage of the Lough Neagh Basin. This he presented in 1906. As with previous observers, he was equally unimpressed by the level of commercial traffic along the waterway. Whilst he acknowledged some brick traffic at Portglenone and Aghivey, he doubted whether it used the locks. Moreover, “During my residence of over seven weeks at Brecart Lodge, near Toome … I never saw any traffic of any kind with the exception of a pleasure steamer on two occasions, passing up or down the Navigation”. Given that the volume of traffic was very unlikely to increase owing to the competition from the railways, he, too, recommended that the Navigation be abandoned and that the Lower Bann be regarded henceforth solely as a drainage outlet for Lough Neagh. Despite advocating the Navigation’s abandonment, he advocated that MacMahon’s ordinary summer water level should be retained. He also proposed that Toome Weir, by now badly leaking, be repaired and that the adjacent canal lock gates be replaced with a sluice. To cater for the commercial fishing interests on the lough, he proposed a railway from the lough to the main line at Toome for the dispatch of fish. The weir at Movanagher was also to be retained in the interests of fishing, but those at Portna and 43 Carnroe were to be removed. The Cutts weir was to be lowered and its lock gates replaced with a sluice. He estimated the cost of his scheme at ‡76,000, including dredging and excavation. Despite, Binnie’s eminent professional standing, the government shelved his scheme and took no further action on it. 3.6 Shepherd’s scheme, 1925 In 1925, Major Percy Shepherd, Director of Works for the newly-established Government of Northern Ireland was tasked by the Ministry of Finance to address the issue of flooding along the Bann. He presented his report Proposals for Measures to Alleviate the Flooding Caused by Lough Neagh and the River Bann the following year. Shepherd’s initial proposals Shepherd found all the schemes proposed since MacMahon to be contradictory in their explanations of the causes of the flooding, and in their estimated costs of alleviation. He also commented that “the history of the River Bann, from the time of the completion of Mr MacMahon’s scheme ... is one continuous record of engineering reports and Royal Commissions, resulting in no actual remedial works”. He noted that flooding occurred once the water level rose above 53†ft OD (Poolbeg). This had happened no fewer than 65 times in the 68 years from 1859 to 1926 inclusive; the flood of 1877 remained the highest ever recorded over this period (57ft-9in OD). Moreover, some floods were of such duration that they disrupted the autumn harvest and the planting of crops the following spring. Having thoroughly analysed the rainfall and flow data, Shepherd concluded that the runoff was higher than MacMahon had calculated due to improvements in field drainage but that the discharge capacity of Toome Weir was less than calculated. The discharge from the lough was also impeded by the restricted channel between Toome and Portna. He found that despite the lack of dredging, there had been no appreciable build up of silt since 1860. However, soundings also revealed that some rock sections of the riverbed had not been as fully excavated as MacMahon had specified, possibly as a costcutting exercise after his death in 1851. He also recognised that whilst it was technically possible to relieve all flooding, it would have been too expensive and not cost effective to do so. Whilst floods were inevitable, Shepherd’s objective was to devise a scheme which reduced their magnitude, frequency and duration. Shepherd recommended no change to the ordinary summer level on which MacMahon had based his scheme; this would thus maintain the Navigation in a serviceable state and require no alterations at the lough ends of the Lagan and Newry canals. However, so as to increase the storage capacity of the lough and river, he recommended the installation of sluice gates in the weirs at Toome, Portna and the Cutts; the existing weir at Portna was to be demolished in its entirety to make way for the new sluices. These gates would make it possible to discharge excess water in the winter without having to wait until it overtopped the crests of the weirs. The sluices were of a type devised by Francis Stoney and had been used on Lower Lough Erne at Belleek as far back as 1883. They comprised a row of vertical metal gates set in roller bearings within their emplacements. The gates were counterbalanced in such a way that they could be easily raised and lowered manually despite the force of the water behind them (fig 3.17). 44 Fig 3.17 Elevation and plan of sluice gates and fish pass at Toome Weir (Civil Engineering, 1932). Shepherd estimated the cost of the sluices, dredging along the Bann and its tributaries, and rock excavation to be ‡825,400. Contingencies, fees and compensation payments, brought the total cost up to ‡1 million. Drainage Advisory Committee review, 1928 The Northern Ireland Drainage Advisory Committee was constituted under the Drainage Act (NI) 1925 and comprised representatives from various government ministries, county councils, agricultural and fishing interests. Having consulted with parties affected by Shepherd’s proposals, the committee found that the relevant County Councils were not prepared to contribute half the cost of the scheme, as was expected of them. As the government would therefore have to pay more than it intended, Shepherd was asked to prepare a new, cheaper scheme. A major saving could be made if the amount of rock excavation was reduced and dredging increased. Whereas it cost ‡1 to excavate a cubic yard of rock, it only cost 1s.4d to dredge a cubic yard of mud, sand, gravel etc – 15 times cheaper. The same cross-sectional area could be achieved by dredging a wide channel as by excavating a narrower but deeper one through rock. The revised cost was ‡534,100 (excluding contingencies etc) – a saving of over ‡290,000 on the previous scheme. Its breakdown was as follows: dredging - 70% (previously 37%), rock excavation - 22% (previously 57%), sluice gates - 7% new sluice gates, work at existing weirs - 1%. Including contingencies, fees etc, the total cost was reckoned to be ‡643,100, of which the county councils would pay a maximum of ‡200,000 and the government the rest. There had been some discussion whether or not a hydro-electric power scheme should be implemented at the same time. In an interim report of 1927 on Shepherd’s scheme, the committee had decided it would be financially prudent to carry out drainage and hydro-power schemes simultaneously. However, having examined Shepherd’s revised scheme, approval was given for the drainage works only. 45 The committee also recommended the abolition of the Lough Neagh Drainage and Lower Bann Navigation Trusts and the transfer of their powers to the Ministry of Finance: “We regard it as essential that the supreme authority should have power in the last resort to act without being trammelled by any other interests.” Implementation of Shepherd’s scheme, 1930-42 With the enactment of the Drainage Act (NI) 1929, control of both the drainage and navigational aspects of the Lower Bann was vested in the Ministry of Finance, as the Advisory Committee had recommended.5 Although Shepherd’s scheme overlapped chronologically with the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners’ improvements to the Barmouth from 1929 to ‘43 (section 4.1) and with the dredging work on the tidal portion of the river in 1938-39 (section 4.2), there was no connection between them. In March 1930, the contract for Shepherd’s revised scheme was awarded to the James Dredging Towage & Transport Co Ltd of Southampton. They, in turn, sub-contracted the rock excavation, weir and sluice works to Walter Scott & Middleton of Westminster. The sluice gates were supplied by Ransomes & Rapier of Ipswich. The work seems to have been well advanced by the mid-1930s, although it appears not to have been fully completed until 1942. The bulk of the rock excavation (120,000 cubic yards/ 92,000cu.m) took place in the vicinity of the Cutts, Movanagher and Portna weirs; two-thirds of the excavated rock was from this last area alone. The river was divided into sections and then split longitudinally with a coffer dam. One half was then dewatered and excavated, and the process then repeated on the adjacent half of the river. Almost 5.2 million cubic yards (4 million cu.m) of non-rock material was also dredged, over half of it from Toome – Portna section. The size of the dredgers was limited by the restricted headroom at Coleraine Bridge, and by the size of the locks. Whilst some of the spoil was dumped in Lough Neagh and Lough Beg, it was generally more convenient just to dump it along the banks of the river adjacent to where it was being removed. In some instances, compensation was given to landowners where dumping devalued the land’s agricultural value or curtailed the extraction of diatomite (section 6.3). Many of these ‘Bann dumps’, as the dredged piles are known, were subsequently planted with trees for commercial forestry (fig 3.18). Fig 3.18 Bann dump at Glenone (4266). As noted in chapter 2, many prehistoric artifacts were also recovered during dredging, including the Bann Disc near Camus Ford. The most obvious indications of Shepherd’s scheme are the sluice emplacements in the weirs at the Cutts, Portna and Toome; the weirs at Movanagher and Carnroe were left as they were. The sluices and elver pass at the Cutts were the first to be constructed, in place of the west half of the existing weir (fig 3.19). 5 The Upper Bann Navigation Trust was unaffected and continued to operate until taken over by the Ministry of Commerce in 1954 under the provisions of Inland Navigation Act (NI) of that year. 46 Fig 3.19 Sluice gates under construction at the Cutts, early 1930s. Note the eel pass in the wall at middle foreground (Civil Engineering, 1932). Next came Portna, where the original weir was demolished and replaced by four gates and a fish pass (fig 3.20). The removal of this weir was crucial to the success of the scheme as the hydraulic gradient of the river, and thus its rate of discharge, could now be increased at will. Fig 3.20 Sluice gates at Portna (4229). The last set of sluices was at Toome, where five gates and a fish pass were inserted in the centre of the repaired weir; a footbridge was also constructed to access them from the Co Antrim side. In all cases, the gates are c.60ft (18.3m) wide and their bottom cills are c.8ft (2.4m) below the crests of their adjoining weirs, thus allowing plenty of scope for discharging excess water according to its volume. The level of the river was also monitored at water gauge stations at Camus (fig 3.21) and at Toome (4335). The former was linked by a telegraph wire to the lock keeper’s house at the Cutts. When the river rose above a certain level, an alarm at the station was triggered and a warning transmitted to the Cutts. The lock keeper then opened the sluice gates to alleviate the impending flood. Fig 3.21 Water gauge station on left bank at Camus, upstream from the Cutts (4124). 47 Disturbance of the fish was a major concern during the execution of the works. To avoid disrupting the elvers on their upstream run, a ‘trap and transport’ method was devised whereby they were caught in tanks at the Cutts and then transported by road up to Lough Beg and Lough Neagh where they were released (section 5.2). Two eel weirs which were obstructing the flow at Toome were replaced with a new one of radically different design, and a new one was also constructed at Portna. The final piece of work appears to have been in 1942 when the Ministry of Finance constructed a dry dock in the upstream approach to the lock (4223; fig 3.22). It is unique in an Irish context in being on the actual canal rather than in a side basin, and would have resulted in an interruption in river traffic whilst in use. It was presumably deemed necessary to service the increasing amount of river traffic generated by the establishment of military camps and airfields in the region during the Second World War. Indeed, the 1940s saw the most traffic on the Navigation since its inception. Fig 3.22 Portna Dry Dock (Michael Savage). The effect of the Shepherd scheme was to reduce the normal level of Lough Neagh by c.0.7m (2ft-3in) and also reduce the height of extreme floods by upwards of 1m (3ft-3in). One casualty of the lowered level was the quay and late 19th century canal at Ballyscullion, noted above as having been built in response to the MacMahon scheme, but now impassable. 3.7 Post World War 2 developments There have been no major drainage or navigation projects on the lough or Lower Bann since the Shepherd scheme. There have, however, been some minor alterations to the levels of Lough Neagh, and changes in the organisations controlling the river’s drainage and navigation. Lough Neagh levels The Lough Neagh & Lower Bann Drainage and Navigation Act (NI) 1955 empowered the Ministry of Finance to regulate the level of the lough as it saw fit in the interests of drainage. This it did through the enactment of the Lough Neagh (Levels) Scheme 1955 which came into force on 1 January 1959. This scheme stipulated that, insofar as rain and wind conditions permitted, the lough’s level would be maintained within the range 50ft-0in to 50ft-6in OD (Poolbeg) as measured at a gauging station at Toome.6 The main impact of the lowering of the water from its previous level was to enable the reclamation of 28,000 acres (11,200ha) of land for agriculture. However, as the upper limit has sometimes been exceeded during periods of heavy rain or snow, this land has been subjected to short-term inundations from time to time. Under the provisions of the Lough Neagh Drainage (Amendment) Act (NI) 1970, the Ministry of Agriculture was further empowered to permit the level of the lough to fall below the above levels in order to counteract any diminution in the flow of the Lower Bann resulting from permitted water abstractions. 6 Belfast Gazette, no.1954, pp 389-390 (5 Dec 1958). 48 The level of the lough was further adjusted under the Lough Neagh (Levels) Scheme (Confirmation) Order (NI) 1999 which came into effect in March 1999.7 This specified that the lough’s level would henceforth be restricted to the range 12.45m – 12.60m OD (Belfast). This is equivalent to a drop of three inches compared with the previous level.8 The Lough Neagh (Levels) Scheme 1999 was amended in 2004 and again in 2010.9 In both cases however, the changes therein relate to additional gauging stations where the lough’s level is measured, and not to its actual level above sea level. Drainage and navigation control As noted above, responsibility for Lough Neagh and the Lower Bann was transferred from their respective Trusts to the Ministry of Finance in 1929. It was this ministry which was behind the rebuilding of the lock-keepers’ houses at the Cutts (4092), Carnroe (4177), and Portna (fig 3.23) in the 1950s.10 Fig 3.23 The rebuilt lock-keeper’s house at Portna (4221). Ministry of Agriculture and DANI On 1 January 1965, drainage and navigation responsibilities were transferred yet again, this time from Finance to the Ministry of Agriculture.11 Following the abolition of the Stormont Parliament and the introduction of direct rule from Westminster in 1972, these powers were transferred to the Department of Agriculture Northern Ireland (DANI). Within this department, operational matters were carried out successively by its Drainage Division, Watercourse Management Division and, from October 1996, by Rivers Agency (fig 3.24). 7 Belfast Gazette, no.6012, p.183 (26 Feb 1999). Comparing the 1999 heights to the 1959 levels is complicated by the fact that the latter are expressed in metric and relate to a new Ordnance datum. Northern Ireland adopted its own datum at Belfast Harbour in 1957; this is 2.71m above Poolbeg datum. The 1999 Order is therefore equivalent to the range 49ft-9in – 50ft 3in OD Poolbeg, 9 Lough Neagh (Levels) Scheme (Confirmation) Order (NI) 2004. Ditto, 2010. 10 The replacement lock house at Carnroe has since been demolished, and the original ones at Movanagher and Toome were replaced in the 1970s (by 4192 and 4239 respectively). 11 This transfer was enabled by thee pieces of legislation: the Drainage Act (NI) 1929, Part 1 section 2, Lough Neagh and Lower Bann Drainage and Navigation Act (NI) 1955, section 6.3, and Ministries of Northern Ireland (Transfer of Functions) (No 2) Order 1964. 8 49 DARD and DCAL In 1999, following devolution and the creation of the Northern Ireland Assembly, the Department of Agriculture & Rural Development (DARD) took over from DANI. The Rivers Agency also moved into DARD as well and continues to be responsible to this day for all issues relating to drainage and flooding on the Lower Bann. In 2006, Rivers Agency electrified the sluice gates at the Cutts, Portna and Toome, thus doing away with the original manual system of raising and lowering. The new system was designed such that it could be operated both on-site and remotely from the agency’s offices at Coleraine. Fig 3.24 This sign on the downstream face of Coleraine Bridge (4064) is now the only tangible evidence of Rivers Agency’s involvement with the Lower Bann Navigation. Its logo is at the bottom right-hand corner. Waterways Ireland At the same time as DANI’s responsibility for the drainage of the Lower Bann moved to DARD in 1999, navigational matters were transferred to the Department of Culture, Arts & Leisure (DCAL). Within DCAL, the management and maintenance of the Lower Bann Navigation were transferred to Waterways Ireland (WI) on 1 April 2000.12 This NorthSouth body was created under the Good Friday Agreement and is jointly funded by DCAL and the Department of Community, Rural & Gaeltacht Affairs in the Republic of Ireland. It is responsible not only for the Lower Bann, but also for all usable navigable waterways throughout Ireland. WI has a dedicated regional office for the Lower Bann at the Cutts (fig 3.25). The various boating facilities it has constructed along the waterway since its formation are discussed in section 10.1. Fig 3.25 The original lock house at the Cutts was replaced in 1951. It was then refurbished in 2004-05 as WI’s regional office for the Lower Bann Waterway (4092). The shifts in responsibility for the drainage and navigational aspects of the tidal and non-tidal sections of the Lower Bann are summarised in table 3.5. 12 The transfer to Waterways Ireland was enabled by the Department (Transfer and Assignment of Functions) Order (NI) 1999, and the North/South Co-operation (Implementation Bodies) (NI) Order 1999. 50 Barmouth to Millennium Br Millennium Br to Town Br Town Bridge to the Cutts Portrush Harbour Company The Cutts to Lough Neagh Date Board of Works 1846 Board of Works 1852 Lower Bann Navigation Trust 1859 Portrush Harbour Company Lough Neagh Drainage Trust Lower Bann Navigation Trust Coleraine Town Commissioners 1863 Lough Neagh Drainage Trust Lower Bann Navigation Trust Coleraine Harbour Commissioners 1879 Lough Neagh Drainage Trust Ministry Finance Coleraine Harbour Commissioners 1929 Ministry Finance Ministry Agriculture Coleraine Harbour Commissioners 1965 Ministry Agriculture Department Agriculture NI Coleraine Harbour Commissioners 1972 Department Agriculture NI Dept Culture, Arts & Leisure Coleraine Harbour Commissioners Coleraine Harbour Commissioners Coleraine 1999 Dept Agriculture & Rural Dev (Rivers Agency) Dept Culture, Arts & Leisure (Waterways Ireland) 2000 Dept Agriculture & Rural Dev (Rivers Agency) ? Dept Culture, Arts & Leisure (Waterways Ireland) 2002 Harbour Commissioners Navigation Dept Agriculture & Rural Dev (Rivers Agency) Drainage Emboldened sections denote changes in organisation. Table 3.5 Changes in responsibility for the tidal and non-tidal sections of the Lower Bann. 51 52 4. TIDAL RIVER NAVIGATION The five mile (8km) tidal stretch of the Lower Bann from the quays at Coleraine to the Barmouth, where it flows into the Atlantic Ocean is officially known as Coleraine Harbour. The navigational difficulties presented by the Barmouth, the relative shallowness of the river along this stretch, and the limitations of the town’s quays have all been the focus of various improvement schemes since the late 1700s and are the subject of this chapter. 4.1 The Barmouth Navigational difficulties at the Barmouth The biggest single impediment to the development of Coleraine as a maritime port was the entrance to the Bann where it met the Atlantic Ocean at the Barmouth. Here the mariner was faced with a number of navigational challenges when attempting to negotiate the mouth of the river. The first difficulty was a shallow bar across the mouth of the river, created through the deposition of silt and sand as the river slowed on meeting the sea. Such was the buildup of sediment that it was a recognised fording point as late as the mid-1800s (fig 4.1). Fig 4.1 Barmouth ford and ferry as captioned on 1853 OS six-inch map. The second obstacle was a shallow rocky shoal which extended upriver and on which vessels could also potentially run aground once over the sandbar (fig 4.2). Had there been a sufficient depth of water, neither obstacle would have been a problem. However, as the 1837 Ordnance Survey Memoir (OSM) noted, whilst the depth of water at the Bar averaged 10ft at high water spring tides, it was only 3ft at low water spring tides.13 13 When the earth, sun and moon are in line, the tide's range is then at its maximum and is termed a spring tide. High waters at spring tides are higher than average, and low waters are lower than average. There is approximately a week between spring and neap tides. 53 Fig 4.2 Rock cill extending diagonally across the mouth of the river at Barmouth. Part of it has now been cut away to form a navigable channel (Anderson, 2000, p.45). A third problem was that the increased speed of the water as it passed over these shallows made it particularly difficult for sailing ships to steer a safe course along the deepest channel. As the 1837 OSM noted, “the tide rushes over the bar with more rapidity at the turn of the tides. Vessels leaving the port [of Coleraine] drop down from the bridge at the commencement of ebb [out-flowing tide] and wait inside the Bar until the return of ebb enables them to pass the obstacle. Vessels entering the river meet with more difficulty. To cross the Bar they must be favoured by a moderate breeze at the time of high tide; the last of flood [in-flowing tide] is the most favourable time.” A fourth problem was that, because of the very exposed coast hereabouts, the wind could have a strong influence on the depth of the water and also make it very choppy, particularly when the river was fast flowing and met an incoming tide. According to the 1837 OSM, “In stormy weather the passage is always dangerous and sometimes impracticable, and this is partly the reason for which very few vessels ever cross the river from the month of October till May. Another cause is that the time of high spring tides at the bar happens about 6am and 6pm when there is no daylight, and that then is the time always chosen if possible for crossing. Otherwise the passage is as easily effected in winter as in summer, in calm weather, ceteris paribus [all else being equal], but masters of vessels, even with the opportunity, are generally unwilling to enter the river during the winter months, as then the chances of leaving it when necessary are much more precarious.” All these problems were exacerbated by the lack of any depth chart or navigation lights (the Barmouth was not properly surveyed until 1850). Successful negotiation of the Bar was therefore wholly dependant not only on the type and size of a vessel and the skill of its skipper, but also external factors such as the state of the tide, wind’s strength and direction, and whether it was day or night. As a consequence of these impediments, vessels of more than 100 tons seldom ventured up the river (and then only at high water spring tides) and it took a very experienced pilot to bring one exceeding 200 tons over the Bar.14 During the first half of the 19th century, various experts put forward proposals for improving the navigability of the river and thus increasing traffic to and from Coleraine. 14 Registered Tonnage does not refer to the weight of the vessel (whether loaded or empty), but to its cargo carrying capacity; one registered ton equates to 100 cubic feet of cargo space. Today ‘gross tonnage’ is used instead as a measure of a ship’s size and is based on a fraction of all its internal spaces. 54 Roach’s proposal In November 1781, John Roach submitted a proposal to the “Committee appointed for the improvement of the navigation of the River Bann” for the construction of an embankment on the left bank of the river immediately downstream from the Articlave River. By thus narrowing the river channel rather than letting it dissipate over the strand, he reasoned that the ensuing stronger current would continuously scour the bed of the river and prevent the accumulation of sand and silt at the Barmouth. To effect this, he proposed a 0.8 mile (1.3km) long earthen bank standing stand 8ft high and measuring 27ft across its base (20ft across its top), all secured with a core of timber piles at c.4ft centres (fig 4.3). In addition to an estimated cost of ‡758 on this substantial structure, he also recommended dredging the river hereabouts to a depth of 4ft to enable boats of up to 200 tons burthen to pass. As was to be the case with this and most subsequent proposals, no action was taken to implement Roach’s proposals. Fig 4.3. Roach’s 1781 proposal for an embankment along the left bank of the Bann, downstream from the Articlave River. It was to run for 124 perches (794m) along the river, with 307m and 211 long returns at its up- and downstream ends. Its approximate position in relation to the present course of the river is shown at left. Rennie’s proposal In 1803, a number of Coleraine merchants commissioned John Rennie, the eminent Scottish civil engineer, to come up with proposals to improve the river’s navigability. In January of that year he took soundings along the tidal section of the river. These 55 showed that that although its depth was generally in excess of 14ft up to Coleraine, it was only 9-10ft at the Bar at high water neap tides.15 He concluded “No doubt considerable improvements might be made by a judicious and well arranged plan but these would not only be enormously expensive but would not be attended with advantages adequate to the expense. It seems therefore to me that all idea of making the Ban[n[ a good harbour must be given up”. Rennie dismissed Portstewart as a possible site for an out-port for Coleraine on the grounds that it would be too expensive to construct a harbour at such an exposed coastal location. Instead, he proposed that one be built at Portrush, then a small fishing harbour further east along the coast where there was a sheltered anchorage on the west side of Ramore Head. He estimated that such a harbour could be built for ‡11,120 and that it could be linked to Coleraine by a horse-drawn tramway. As with Roach some 20 years previously, no further action was taken on Rennie’s proposed scheme. Townsend’s proposal In 1812, Thomas Townshend, whilst surveying bogs in NE Ulster for the Bog Commissioners, took soundings along the Lower Bann to assess its feasibility for navigation. Although his survey was confined to the non-tidal section from Lough Neagh to the Cutts, he recognised the advantages of Portrush as an out-port and proposed to link it with Coleraine by a canal. However, because the intervening ground was higher, locking up and down to a summit level would be required, and a connection with the River Bush to supply it. The impracticality of such a proposition had already been recognised by Rennie, and Townsend’s scheme was not progressed either up- or downstream from the Cutts. Macneill’s proposal Sir John Macneill, the eminent Dundalk-born civil engineer, also turned his attention to the navigational difficulties presented by the Bar. As with the previous schemes, he also proposed that it should be avoided and that Portrush be developed as a port instead of Coleraine. In addition, he proposed that it be linked to Coleraine by a conventional railway. Again, nothing came of this scheme. Portrush Harbour In 1827, a group of Coleraine merchants, businessmen and landowners successfully steered an Act through Parliament to establish the Portrush Harbour Company and empower it to construct an out-port at Portrush as envisaged by Rennie a quartercentury previously.16 Work began in 1828 under the direction of Rennie’s son (also John) and was finished by 1836 at a cost of ‡16,226, all of which was raised privately through the issue of shares. Samuel Lewis, writing in 1837, noted that the entrance to the new harbour was 27ft deep at low water spring tides (i.e. lower-than-average tides), and that vessels drawing up to 17ft could negotiate it in perfect safety. This was a significant improvement on the 15 When the the sun and moon are separated by 90 degrees when viewed from the earth, the tidal range is at its minimum; these are termed neap tides. 16 An Act for improving the Harbour of Portrush in the County of Antrim, 1827 (7 & 8 George IV, c.103). 56 depths at the Barmouth and enabled ships of up to 500 tons to enter the new harbour at all states of the tide (figs 4.4 & 4.5). Portrush also served as a refuge for vessels en route to Coleraine, enabling them to await suitable wind and tide conditions before negotiating the Bar. Sometimes vessels off-loaded some cargo at Portrush before continuing on to Coleraine, their reduced drafts having reducing the risk of running aground. For the same reason, additional cargo could also be picked up at Portrush by out-bound ships. The Portrush Harbour Company also had the monopoly on piloting ships along the Bann to Coleraine. The sea pilots were based at Portrush, whilst a river pilot was stationed on the left bank of the river near the Bar.17 Fig 4.4 Aerial view of harbour on west side of Ramore Head (OSNI). Fig 4.5 View of Portrush Harbour, late 1800s (National Library Ireland: W. Lawrence 1057). 17 Until 1925, pilots were rowed out to the waiting ships. In that year, the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners introduced the motorised pilot tender Violet Clarke. She was superseded by S.G. Martin in 1967 and then by Borderer in 2000. 57 The importance of steam ships is well illustrated by the shipping figures for Coleraine and Portrush for 1841-42. During this period there were 861 passages of loaded ships in and out of Coleraine/Portrush, carrying a combined total of 108,724 tons (table 4.1).18 Although steamers comprised just under half of all passages (47%), they accounted for 83% of the total tonnage through these ports. On average, each sailing vessel carried 42 tons of cargo, whereas steamers averaged 221 tons - over five times as much. Vessels in Tonnage in Tons in per vessel Vessels out Tonnage out Tons out per vessel Sail 312 12739 41 142 6230 44 Steam 209 45860 219 198 43895 222 Table 4.1 Ships and cargo traffic in and out of Coleraine/Portrush, 1841-42. Whilst steamers would have been better equipped to negotiate the Bar, the risk of them going aground would also had been greater because of their increased tonnage and deeper draft. Given the increasing numbers of steamers as the 19th century progressed, it is not surprising that Portrush quickly eclipsed Coleraine as the region’s principal port, being future-proof to the extent that it could handle vessels up to 500 tons burthen (compared with only 200 tons through the Bar). Commercial trade apart, the general public also benefited from the new harbour with the inception of steamship services to Glasgow, Liverpool and Fleetwood over the next ten years; cross-channel steamers to and from Derry also called at Portrush en route. Forsyth’s proposal Following the passing of the Drainage (Ireland) Act in 1842, an ambitious scheme was proposed for the improvement of the drainage and navigability of the Lower Bann from Lough Neagh to the Cutts at Coleraine (as noted in chapter 3). Because the tidal section of the river did not feature in this proposal, some concerned Coleraine townsfolk successfully petitioned the government for a survey with a view to improvements. A hydrometric survey was carried out by the Admiralty on behalf of the Board of Works. It was on the basis of the results of this survey that William Forsyth proposed a scheme in January 1850 to solve the Bar problem once and for all (fig 4.6). Forsyth’s scheme entailed dredging the bar to a depth of 8ft below low water spring tides for a distance of 1‰ miles (2km) upriver from Barmouth. He also noted that although the river’s scouring action would keep the dredged channel free of sediment, fresh deposits would accumulate as the river’s current was dissipated beyond the shoreline. To prevent this, he proposed extending the river out into deeper water where the sediment would be dissipated by the sea. This extension was to be achieved using a pair of moles (low causeways) set 600ft apart at their ends. The west one was to be 1850ft long, with a lighthouse at its end. The east mole one was 3000ft long and would also act as a breakwater. A series of groynes (narrow walls) were also to be constructed out from the left bank to funnel the river along the dredged channel (training walls were also considered but discounted as being too expensive). He estimated the cost of the entire works to be just over ‡50,000. 18 Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland, 1844-45, p.9. 58 Fig 4.6 Forsyth’s proposed improvements at the Barmouth, 1850 (not to stated scale). The moles are shown in blue and the groynes in green. The red line denotes the proposed level of the dredged channel. Encouraged by these findings, the Portrush Harbour Company obtained statutory powers to (1) improve the navigability of the Bann from the Salmon Leap at Castleroe (above Coleraine) to the sea, (2) remove the bar and ford at Barmouth, and (3) erect a swivel bridge at Coleraine.19 However, the company failed to follow through on any of these proposed actions and Forsyth’s scheme lapsed. Dredging at the Bar Under an Act of 1863, the Coleraine Town Commissioners were empowered to purchase the Portrush Harbour Company’s rights to the tidal section of the Bann.20 19 Portrush Harbour Amendment Act, 1852 (Local and Personal Act, 15 & 16 Victoria I, c.80, s.6). An Act for the improvement by the Coleraine Town Commissioners of the navigation of the River Bann, 1863 (25 & 26 Victoria I, c.100). 20 59 Some three years later, the Commissioners asked John Coode, an eminent English maritime engineer, to advise them on the removal of the sand bank at the Bar. Based on his recommendations and with a grant from the Irlsh Society, a 12ft deep channel (at low water spring tides) was dredged through the Bar. It was completed in 1872. Although scouring kept the channel free of sediment although there appear to have been localised silting due to sand blowing off the adjacent dunes (for which Coode suggested wattle palisades along the banks). Whilst the deepened channel from c.5ft to 12ft undoubtedly reduced the likelihood of steamers grounding at the Bar, it was too great a risk for some. In 1865, a year before the inception of Coode’s proposal, Messrs Laird’s steamer, the Myrtle, began plying between Coleraine and Glasgow. However, she was relocated to Portrush within three months due to the sandbar at the Bar and did not return to Coleraine until 1884, only after further improvements had been made at the Bar. First Barmouth scheme In 1878, the Town Commissioners returned to Sir John Coode (knighted in 1872 in recognition of his work at Portland Harbour, Dorset) for advice on further improving the navigability of the river to Coleraine. His report, delivered the same year, recommended two moles out to sea at the end of the river. He had, in fact, made such a proposal back in 1866 (following Forsyth in this respect), but it had not been implemented on grounds of cost. He now suggested a 820ft long embankment from Ballyaghran Point on the Portstewart side of the river, beyond which a mole was to extend half a mile into the sea. There was to be a similar mole on the Castlerock bank, but only one-third of a mile long and set 500ft apart. Ideally, he wanted each mole to be 200ft longer but accepted that this would be too expensive.21 Coode suggested that the moles might utilize some of the material dumped hereabouts during dredging some ten years before. However, the bulk of it was to be stone quarried in the townland of Carnanee, 2Š miles (4.4km) upstream on the right bank, loaded on to barges and brought downriver. It was then to be off-loaded on to bogeys running along temporary timber gantries erected over the course of the new moles. The stone was then to be tipped from the bogeys directly on to the seabed and the process repeated until the moles were emerged above the waterline. Although his preference was for concrete moles, he settled for rubble stone as the cheaper option. Such an ambitious scheme would require considerable expenditure and a level of commitment well beyond the Commissioner’s usual responsibilities. With Coode’s scheme in mind, and despite the opposition of some locals who viewed the Barmouth Scheme as a waste of money, the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners were established under an Act of 1879 to take over the responsibilities of the Town Commissioners in respect of the town quay and tidal portion of the river downstream from Coleraine Bridge.22 Twelve of this 19-man body were, in fact, nominated by the Town Commissioners and the remainder by the Coleraine Board of Guardians. Significantly, this Act 21 Although the Commissioners agreed to the lengthening of the moles in 1883, the extensions were put on hold in early 1884 and were never carried out. 22 An Act for the incorporation of the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners, for vesting in them the powers of the Coleraine Town Commissioners with respect to the Navigation of the River Bann under the River Bann Navigation Act, 1863; for the repeal of the said Act; for the improvement of the said Navigation, 1879 (42 & 43 Victoria I, c.175). 60 also empowered the new body to raise finance for the pursuance of improvement works along the tidal stretch of the Bann. The Barmouth scheme commenced in the same year, 1879, under Coode’s direction. It was carried out by a contractor named Lawson and financed by a loan from the Public Works Loan Commissioners and grant from the Irish Society. In addition to transporting the quarried stone by barge, it was also conveyed along a railway from Carnanee Quarry to Ballyaghran Point. From here it continued along an elevated timber gantry over the intended line of the East Mole. Stone-laden bogeys were manually pushed along it and their load dumped to gradually build up the mole. Originally Coode had suggested that stone for the West Mole be brought by railway from a quarry at Articlave. This proposal was subsequently found to be too expensive so it was decided to continue the existing line on a timber trestle bridge across the river south of the East Mole. Unlike the mainline railway bridge at Coleraine (opened in 1860), it could not be opened so the channel was closed to shipping for the duration of the work. At the west end of the bridge, the line headed north alongside the edge of the river and then continued on an elevated gantry over the line of the West Mole. As built, the ends of the moles were some 360ft apart rather than the 500ft originally envisaged by Coode. After completion in 1888, most of the railway bridge was removed to allow ships free passage once again. The gantries were also taken down except for their seaward ends (fig 4.7). Whether they were retained as a cost-cutting exercise or as navigational aids to make the Barmouth more visible from afar is uncertain. Fig 4.7 Barmouth moles c.1900, with remains of elevated bogey gantries (Anderson, 2009, p.91). The new moles undoubtedly created a safer passage than before and sailing vessels could also avail of the Commissioner’s steam-driven tug Alderman Ridley to tow them up the river. Not surprisingly, there was a marked increase in the number of vessels visiting Coleraine; whereas there were only 75 vessels in 1878, there were 211 in 1888 (when the moles were finished), and 239 the following year. Training wall Finances dictated that only the moles could be built initially. However, following the Irish Society’s offer of a further grant, a training wall was also built in the early 1890s along the west bank, from north of the contractor’s rail bridge to just beyond the landward end of the West Mole, a distance of 430m. This is only 60% of the length of today’s training wall (see below) and there was a considerable gap between its north end and the mole, making the bank susceptible to wave erosion. Indeed, Sir John Coode had warned the Harbour Commissioners in 1888 that this would be the case. Why it was not continued as far as the actual mole is uncertain: perhaps funds ran out before it could be completed. 61 Second Barmouth scheme Because the moles were founded on sand rather than rock, it was inevitable that there would be some undermining and settling. Subsidence was, in fact, already evident by the turn of the century but the First World War precluded any remedial action being taken. It was not until 1925 that the Harbour Commissioners asked T.S. Gilbert, Civil Engineer to the Belfast Harbour Commissioners, to report on their condition. Gilbert found that both moles had subsided to such an extent that 400ft of the seaward end of the East Mole and 300ft of the west one were almost permanently submerged. Fortunately the ends of the bogey gantries left over from the 1880s’ scheme were still in position, so vessels would have been aware of the moles’ presence even if they could not be seen. Another problem was that sand was once again being deposited at the Bar as the moles were no longer able to scour the channel between them to the same degree as before. As more sand accumulated, so the situation got increasingly worse. Gilbert also noted that the training bank along the left side (then a mere foot above high water mark) was not as effective as it could be as it stopped short of the West Mole and created eddies which impeded the downstream flow of the current. To rectify this situation, Gilbert recommended that both moles be raised and topped with concrete to a height of 7ft above the high water mark (at ordinary spring tides) and also that the training wall on the left bank be extended. A scheme of works was drawn up by the Commissioners’ consultant engineers Henderson & Nicol of Aberdeen. It commenced in early 1929 with a Government loan and funding under an unemployment relief scheme, and a grant from the Irish Society. Whereas the previous scheme had taken 10 years from scratch, this one was to take 14 years. An insight as to why it took so long comes from the minutes of the Harbour Commissioners’ meetings and diaries written by the Commissioners’ Resident Engineer R.A. Chapman who was based at Carnanee Quarry. The project was initially awarded to Messrs F Moore & Co of Morecambe, who started work in May 1929. Initially work focused on repairing the jetty at Carnanee which dated from the 1880s’ scheme, and laying a railway track within the quarry. Dumping of quarried stones from barges on to the existing moles eventually got underway in December of that year. One month on, however, Moore was in receivership owing to a problem with his bank; his employees were given only two hours notice to quit the site! In February 1930, the Harbour Commissioners re-awarded the contract to the next lowest tenderer, Romney Faris of Armagh. Coincidently, they had just awarded him the contract to upgrade the quay at Coleraine (section 4.3). Faris started in March and for the remainder of 1930 Carnanee Quarry continued to be brought back into full operation. The course of the 3ft-gauge contractor’s line down to the East Mole was repaired and a new track laid. Two 3ft-gauge steam locos were purchased from the Giant’s Causeway Tramway to convey material along it and also a 2ft-gauge petrol loco for use on the bogey lines along the actual moles. In November of that year, the first load of quarried stone to be brought by railway was deposited on the mole (barges had been used until then). Once the loose stonework had been raised sufficiently, it was then topped with a wall of shuttered concrete, cast in 25-30ft long sections. Pouring of the concrete commenced in June 1931, prefabricated concrete blocks being utilized in the fill matrix to save time on site. Once it had set, a temporary 2ft-gauge track was then laid on top so that bogeys could bring material for the section beyond and to dump stone on either side of the wall (fig 4.8). As work progressed, the remnants of the old gantry were also gradually removed. 62 Fig 4.8 Above: View of the newly-laid bogey track along East Mole. Note remains of elevated railway used in original scheme in background (Anderson, 2000, p.5). Right: Bogeys laden with quarried rocks being moved into position along the mole 1931 (McDonald & Anderson, 1983, plate 110a). At the same time as the upgrading of the East Mole, a seven ton aerial cableway was erected from its south end across to the opposite bank so that wagons of quarried stone etc could be brought across. Known as the ‘Blondin’ (after the French tightrope walker who crossed Niagara Falls), its clearance of 69ft above high water level was sufficient to allow ships to pass freely to and from Coleraine for the duration of the works (fig 4.9). At the same time, the training wall on the other side was extended up to the mole with stone dumped from barges. The cableway was finished in December 1931 and a 2ftgauge track laid along the extended training bank to the landward end of the West Mole. The aerial ropeway enabled work to progress on the West Mole in a similar fashion to the first mole. The first pour of concrete over the stonework took place in March 1932. Fig 4.9 Aerial ropeway across the Bann at Barmouth, 1932 (Anderson, 2008, p.93). Work on both moles was still in progress in 1936 when Chapman bemoaned the fact that the project was already five years behind schedule. This he blamed on the contractor’s poor organisation, equipment failures and lack of forward planning. Indeed, since 1931, Henderson & Nicol had also been expressing concern at the poor rate of progress. In fairness to the contractor, however, working was confined to the summer months and was interrupted periodically by bad weather, rough seas, undermining of the railway and sand drifts thereon. In some instances, entire sections of shuttered concrete had to be redone, which necessitated the laborious process of cutting out what had already set. Concreting of both moles was eventually completed in 1937, some 1269ft and 1003ft linear feet of concrete having been laid along the East and West moles respectively. However, piece-meal underpinning of both moles continued over the next four years. To terminate the ends of the moles, two hollow reinforced-concrete caissons were fabricated on the west bank just south of the West Mole in 1936-37. A dispute appears to have then arisen between Faris and the Harbour Commissioners and his contract was terminated in April 1939. Harbour & General Works Ltd of Westminster were then 63 brought in to complete the scheme; they were already engaged in dredging work for the Commissioners (section 4.2). Even though the moles were largely completed by 1939, they still presented a danger to unwary skippers (fig 4.10). The onset of the Second World War in the same year was also a hindrance to their completion. In a Board minute of 2 May 1941, for example, the Commissioners noted the difficulty of obtaining a tug to tow the caissons out to the ends of the moles. Fig 4.10 S.W. Coe’s Briarthorn and a dredger were both written-off at the end of the West Mole in 1939 (Anderson, 1976). This problem appears to have been resolved soon afterwards as, in June of that year, the caisson for the East Mole was ‘launched’ down a rudimentary slipway. It was then floated over a prepared base at the end of the mole and sunk into position. Its hollow compartments were filled with concrete and decked out level with the top of the wall along the mole. This work was completed in September of that year. The end of the West Mole was launched in April 1942 and similarly finished off in July 1943. The approximate total lengths of the East and West moles (i.e. the stone causeways, concrete copings, and end caissons) was 595m and 540m respectively. The two leading lights on the left bank, originally installed during the first Barmouth scheme to enable ships to align themselves between the moles on entering the river, were also upgraded. Because the upper leading light was becoming buried under sand drifts, a new one was erected higher up the sand dune. This necessitated raising the lower leading light so that one could be quickly lined up with the upper one when viewed from sea. This work was completed in 1944, initially using oil lamps, each with a continuous burning time of three months. The final piece of the jigsaw was the erection of an oil-lit beacon on the end of the East Mole in 1947. This lamp was replaced with a battery-powered one in 1952 (and latterly with a solar-powered one). Two years later, in 1949, ‘Blondin’ was dismantled. In terms of increasing the depth of the channel, the second Barmouth scheme was a success. When the depths were measured at the Barmouth in 1945, they were found to be 3ft-4ft greater than at the start of the scheme. The low-water sounding was 9ft 9in (compared with 5ft 6in before), and the high-water depth 11ft 9in (previously 8ft 9in). However, the Barmouth’s upgrading did not prevent all accidents, not so much from ships running aground but from collisions with the moles themselves. In 1894, for example, the steamer Christopher Thomas collided with the West Mole, as did the Shilbottle in 1912. In 1915, Scottish & Laird Line’s Daisy struck the East Mole and sank, putting paid thereafter to all cross-channel passenger ferries from Coleraine (those from Portrush had already ceased the previous year). A vessel also hit one of the moles in 1922 and was lost. Even as late as 1970, the Esso Tynemouth struck rocks at the East Mole as a result of a strong river current, heavy swell and poor steering. Maintenance of the moles has continued to occupy the Harbour Commissioners ever since their completion in the 1940s. In 1957, for example, the Cementation Company (Ireland) Ltd carried out extensive underpinning with concrete grout. In 2000, remedial works were also carried out at a cost of ‡‰ million. 64 4.2 River improvements As already noted above, the first concerted dredging programme was in the 1860s, but was limited to the Barmouth area. The 1880s scheme at the Barmouth also resulted in piecemeal dredging of the tidal section in order to maintain a 12ft deep channel at low water ordinary spring tides. Railway bridges Apart from a limited amount of dredging, the only other major development on the tidal section of the river during the 1800s came about as a result of the arrival of the railway in Coleraine, initially from Derry in 1853 and then from Belfast in 1855. Each line was served by its own terminus - Waterside Station at the west end of the Town Bridge for the Derry line, and at Northbrook at Railway Place on the east bank for the Belfast line. The two lines were eventually connected by a multi-span metal and timber bridge in 1860. As it was downstream of the quays, it had a swivelling opening section to allow ships to pass through to and from the Barmouth. This bridge was replaced by an all-metal one with vertically-lifting bascule section a short distance downstream in 1924. Fuller details of both bridges are to be found in chapter 8. 1930s dredging scheme It was not until the 1930s, coincidental with the second Barmouth scheme, that the entire length of the Bann from Lough Neagh to the sea was comprehensively dredged. Responsibility for dredging the tidal section rested with the Harbour Commissioners (the freshwater section was discussed in chapter 3). Harbour & General Works Ltd were awarded the contract in 1938-39 (they also took over the Barmouth contract from Faris in 1939). Most of the dredging was carried out at the Coleraine end of the river and dumped on what are now Coleraine Inst’s playing fields on the left bank, and also on the right bank at Millburn, between the quays and new railway bridge. This activity resulted in a marked increase in dredger, barge and tug traffic along the river (fig 4.11). New navigation lights and markers were also erected as part of this scheme. Fig 4.11 Dredging operations on the tidal Bann Left: Map showing location of material to be dredged (hatched) and area of deposition (in red) (PRONI: HAR/6/13/1). Above: Tug, barge and bucket dredger at work in the 1930s (McDonald & Anderson, 1981, plate 35). 65 Dredgers Despite the recognition by the Harbour Commissioners and their precursors of the need to maintain a navigable channel, it was not until 1977 that they purchased the Bar Maid, a suction-and-grab-dredger built by Messrs Cooke of Wivenhoe, Essex (fig 4.12). She was used to maintain the entrance to the river at c.14ft low-water depth and the harbour at 12ft. She was also used to dredge Portrush, in the maintenance of navigation lights and buoys along the river, and also for work elsewhere during slack periods. She remained in service until sold off in 2000. Fig 4.12 The Bar Maid dredging Portrush Harbour, 1993. Thereafter, the Commissioners relied on chartering the Londonderry port tug Otterbank which used a plough system for seabed leveling. In 2004, the tug Plym Echo was bought from Plymouth. Renamed Confidence, it uses a 3m wide plough fitted to an A-frame pulled by two 450hp diesel engines (fig 4.13). Fig 4.13 The Confidence at Coleraine, 2010. 4.3 Coleraine Port The difficulties of negotiating the Bar in the early 1800s have already been noted. Even if ships did manage to reach Coleraine, there seems to have been little in the way of facilities when they arrived. The Quay had been relocated to the downstream side of the Town Bridge in the 1710s and is described in the 1837 OSM thus: “The wharf is small, permitting only one vessel to come alongside at a time, the rest lying contiguous to and parallel to each other and the first. Close to the wharf the depth of water is only about 9 feet at high tide and the vessels in consequence do not come nearer to it than 10 or 12 feet, at which distance the depth is from 13 to 14 feet.” The difficulty in berthing ships, particularly ones with deep drafts, made the loading and unloading of their cargoes more time consuming than had they been able to tie up alongside the quay. The OSM notes: “The method of loading and goods at the wharf is by hand barrows for all articles that admit of this method of carriage. All goods, however, must be carried over planks which connect the wharf with the ship’s side.” Although there was a timber and coal yard adjoining the quay at that time, the nearest warehouse was a private concern in Hanover Place, on the upstream side of the bridge. Moreover, the Custom House is described in the 1837 Memoir as “very bad” and comprising but several rooms in the Customs Officer’s residence. Early improvements The 1830 and 1853 OS maps shows a small quay immediately downstream of the Town Bridge (the precursor of the present bridge) on the right bank of the Bann at the mouth of the Brook. It measured c.90ft along the Bann, and then turned along the left bank of the Brook for a further 90ft (fig 4.14). 66 Fig 4.14 Coleraine Quay, c.1860 (Anderson 1976). The 1882 large-scale town map shows it to have been extended by c.45ft along the Bann during the intervening period. 1883 quay Concurrently with drawing up the first Barmouth Scheme, Coode also turned his attention to improving the town quay, at that time a low revetted bank some 135ft long. He proposed raising it to 6ft above high water spring tides and add a 350ft long section to its downstream end. The river was also to be dredged to a depth of 12ft at low water spring tides so that ships could tie up alongside. The new quays were to be fronted with timber piles and backfilled with dredged spoil. The Brook (Lodge Burn) was also to be redirected downstream from its present confluence with the Bann at the Town Bridge so that the new quay could be accommodated. He also suggested that a quay might also be constructed on the opposite bank at a later date. Work began on the new quay in 1883, concurrently with the Barmouth Scheme. The contractor was Messrs Fry & Hegarty who completed the job early the next year (the new Town Bridge was also finished in that year as well). The quay was significantly higher than the existing one and was faced with stone except for a section at its downstream end which was open piles (fig 4.15). There was also a goods transit shed alongside. As Coode had proposed, the Brook was also diverted around the bottom end of the new quay. This brought the total length of the wharfage at Coleraine to c.485ft. 1887 upgrading The rudimentary nature of the old quay next the bridge was always an issue and the Commissioners intended to raise it to the same height as the new one whilst the latter was being built. Lack of finance seems to have limited them to piecemeal repairs. In 1887, however, they were in a position to replace a 45ft section next to the new quay (this was probably the extension added in the mid 1800s). 67 Fig 4.15 North end of 1880s’ quay as viewed from opposite bank c.1900. Note also the goods transit shed and railway wagons behind. The steam tug Confidence is in the foreground (Anderson 1976). Harbour railway Cargo handling facilities at the quay were further improved in 1892 with the opening of a spur from the main Coleraine-Derry railway line. It was built by the Harbour Commissioners at the behest of the Irish Society as a condition of them funding dredging works. Although this new line had a relatively steep gradient from the harbour up to the main line and was therefore difficult to work with a heavy load, it did away with having to transship goods to the railway station, some distance to the east (fig 4.16). Coleraine Station Harbour spur Fig 4.16 Route of railway spur from main line to harbour. 68 1912-13 quays In 1912, the quay was extended downstream yet again, this time by 150ft, bringing the wharfage to c.635ft. The next year, the 120ft-long open-piled downstream end of the 1883 quay was also replaced. Additional goods transit sheds were also built alongside. The work was carried out by McLaughlin & Harvey Ltd of Belfast. Instead of timber piles reinforced-concrete ones were used on both sections, to specifications drawn up by Messrs L.G. Mouchel & Partners Ltd of Westminster. At that time, the use of reinforced concrete was still in its infancy and Mouchel was one of the pioneers of its use. 1930s improvements and additions Although steamers had been in the ascendancy since the late 1800s, it was not until 1928 that the last sailing vessel entered Coleraine, the Danishregistered Merkur with a cargo of timber from Sweden (fig 4.17). Fig 4.17 The Merkur was the last unmotorised sailing ship to visit Coleraine (Anderson, 2000, p.6). During the 1920s, the Liverpool-based shipping line of S.W. Coe Ltd began operations to Coleraine. Timber was imported from Scandanavia, barrels of petroleum from America, and flour by Messrs Spillers. Seed potatoes were a major export. In 1930-31, the surviving 230ft of the 1884 timber wharf was replaced with sheet steel piling along its frontage. The older and much lower section nearest the bridge was also brought out into line with it, heightened and rebuilt with sheet steel piling. The river in front of the new quay was also dredged to improve access thereto. This work was undertaken by Romney Faris who was also working on the second Barmouth scheme at the same time. In 1939-40, the quay was extended downstream yet again, this time by 250ft in reinforced-concrete piling. This work was carried out by Harbour & General Works Ltd (who had also taken over the Barmouth works from Faris) and brought the total length of the quay to 885ft. At the same time, the harbour railway was also extended to run alongside the new quay. The opportunity was also taken to upgrade the actual railway track with heavier lines and strengthen the bridge where it crossed the Brook to cope with the heavier locos then in use. However, because of a dispute between the Commissioners and LMS railway (whose rolling stock used the line) as to who should pay, this work did not get underway until 1941. It was carried out by the Royal Engineers and the Commissioners only had to pay for the materials, not the labour. These improvements to the quay and river were certainly timely given the increase in traffic through the port to service the various military camps established along the Bann Valley during the Second World War. Coleraine was also, along with Warrenpoint, the 69 chief port in Northern Ireland for the importation of munitions and ordnance. In fact, such was the strategic importance of Coleraine Port at that time that the Admiralty requisitioned the recently completed quay extension for its own use (hence the input of the military into the railway’s upgrading). Mid-1900s improvements The post-war era brought a marked increase in traffic through the harbour. In the 1950s, there were at least 300 ships per year, with a peak of 449 vessels in 1955 (fig 4.18). Imports at that time included timber, coal and fertilizer; potatoes were the main exports. Fig 4.18 Ships through Coleraine, 1885-1975 (Anderson 1976). In 1953-54, a separate 130ft reinforcedconcrete piled quay and associated transit sheds were constructed just downstream from the existing quay (fig 4.19). It was built on ground reclaimed through dredging in the late 1930s and was primarily for the exportation of potatoes; it is still known as the ‘Potato Quay’. Fig 4.19 Potato Quay. It was probably coincidental that the number of vessels peaked in 1955, as there was a steady decline thereafter, irrespective of the new quay. However, this decline was offset by an increase in ship size as the small traditional steamers gave way to larger diesel-powered vessels. The first of this new generation of ships to visit Coleraine was, in fact, the Dutch-registered Flying Norseman as far back as 1932 and their number had increased ever since. 70 Whereas the average net tonnage of the ships was c.150 tons in the mid 1950s, it increased to 400 tons over the next 20 years. Steamers finally disappeared from the port in the early 1960s, the last being the Monksville in 1963 (fig 4.20). Fig 4.20 Left: S.W. Coe’s steam coal boats at Coleraine, c.1956. Right: The same scene in 1965, but now Messrs Coe’s boats are all of Dutch design and powered by diesel engines (Anderson, 1976). In 1961-62, the entire 270ft length of the concrete quay of 1912-13 was totally rebuilt with reinforced-concrete piles. The metalwork of original ones had rusted in places and caused the concrete to spall and weaken the structure. This work was carried out by John Rainey (Construction) Ltd. Later 1900s century developments Much of the harbour’s post-war decline can be attributed to the modernisation of the ports along the east coast, notably Belfast, Larne and Warrenpoint. Moreover, the upgrading of the province’s roads, improvements in bulk transportation, containerisation, and the inception of roll-on/roll-off ferries have all made Coleraine and its hinterland just as serviceable from the east coast as via the River Bann. The decline in traditional cargoes through the port is reflected in the abandonment of the harbour railway in 1966, three years after the departure of the last train. Despite the decline in traditional goods, the harbour did attract specialist cargoes in the wake of new industries being established in the town. In the late 1950s, for example, Chemstrand (later Monsanto) opened a factory at Somerset for the production of Acrilan. The basic raw ingredient of this synthetic yarn was acrylonitrile, a liquid chemical which was imported in bulk tankers from Rotterdam. It was discharged at a jetty built specifically for this purpose on the west bank in 1958, whence it was piped to the factory on the outskirts of the town (fig 4.21). Fig 4.21 The Leendert-B with her cargo of acrylonitrile at the Chemstrand Jetty, 29 Aug 1958 (Anderson, 1976). 71 The replacement of the town’s Victorian coal gasworks in the mid-1960s with an oilbased plant in the mid 1960s also necessitated the regular importation of liquefied naphtha from Esso’s oil refinery at Milford Haven. At the harbour it was piped into purpose-built holding tanks on reclaimed ground just north of the Brook. In the mid-1970s, considerable quantities of quarried stone were also exported through Coleraine for use in the construction of oil rigs around the coast of Scotland. The years 1985-86 saw the last major addition in the form of a 180ft long piled reinforced-concrete wharf and associated storage sheds at Riversdale, just downstream from the Potato Quay (fig 4.22). The coal boats of Liverpool-based S.W. Coe Ltd were a particularly familiar sight in the harbour since the 1920s (fig 4.20 above). However, with the closure of the quayside coal depots of Kelly, Watt and Dalzell and of Monsanto and the town’s gasworks in the 1980s, fewer ships now had reason to visit Coleraine. In 1990, for instance, only 32 used the harbour and 26 in 1993. Fig 4.22 Riversdale Quay. In the late 1980s, the 250ft long piled metal sheet quay of 1931 (just downstream from the Town Bridge) was abandoned. With the exception of short section nearest the bridge, it was completely re-piled with sheet steel. This work was carried out by McLaughlin & Harvey. However, it was not until 1997 that the Bannside Shopping Centre was completed on the ground formerly occupied by the coal yards (fig 4.23). Fig 4.23 Abandoned section of quay with Dunnes supermarket behind, in 2010. In summary, although at least 11 phases of development actually took place since the early 1800s, only six are now apparent along the Coleraine waterfront (fig 4.24). Coleraine Port today In 2003, as a result of the River Bann Navigation Order (NI) 2002, the jurisdiction of the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners was slightly altered and now comprises the tidal stretch of the river from the downstream side of the Millennium Footbridge (opened in 2001), rather than the Town Bridge as before. It also includes “so much of the sea below high water mark as lies within a distance of 500m from any part of the East Pier or the West Pier at the mouth of the said river and shall include all inlets and havens whereof the entrances are within those limits and all landing-places, docks, piers, quays and works for the time being vested in the Commissioners or lying within their jurisdiction (other than railways and works connected with railways and road bridges).” The mid-1980s’ Riversdale Quay is now the focus of Coleraine Harbour’s activities. The piled concrete quays erected in the 1930s and ‘60s are also still in use but leased by the Commissioners to a metal recycling firm for the export of scrap metal. 72 1. Pre-1853: Low quay c.90ft long. Downstream 2. Pre-1882: Extended by 45ft to c.135ft long. 3. 1883-84: Extended by 350ft with timber piles to c.485ft. 4. 1887: 45ft section of pre-1882 quay replaced with timber piles. 5. 1912-13: Extended by 150ft with rfc piles to c.635ft; 120ft open section of 1880s’ timber-piled quay replaced with rfc piles. th 6. 1930-31: 19 C quays replaced with steel sheet piling. 7. 1939-40: Extended by 250ft with rfc piles to c.885ft. 8. 1953-54: Separate 130ft rfc-piled quay added. Wharfage now c.1015ft. 9. 1961-62: Entire 1912-13 quay replaced with new rfc piles. 10. 1985-86: Separate 180ft rfc-piled quay added. Total wharfage c.1195ft. 11. Late 1980s: Most of 1930s quay re-piled with sheet steel; this end of quay no longer used by port. Fig 4.24 Sequence of quay development at Coleraine. Today, Coleraine Harbour can accommodate ships up to 2000DWT, 85m long and 13.5m beam, with a maximum draft of 4.4m; larger vessels can also be berthed in exceptional conditions. The heaviest cargo yet recorded is a 2135-tonne load of scrap metal which was shipped to Spain in the Antina in June 2003 (over ten times the tonnage two centuries previously). On 28 January 2012, the 87.95m long Nautica took on a cargo of scrap metal destined for Spain. As the turning circle in the river hereabouts is 95m, its manoeuvring left little margin for error. In late 2010, the Potato Quay of 1954 was abandoned to make way for a pontoon and slipway for leisure cruisers. A second pontoon for recreational use has also been built on the opposite bank near the Town Bridge. Also in late 2010, the Department of Regional Development issued a consultation paper for the transfer of the harbour from the Harbour Commissioners to Coleraine Borough Council. It was argued that reuse of the harbour lands for purposes in addition to shipping would offer more potential for the town’s economic regeneration than currently exists. At the time of writing (Spring 2011), however, this issue was still unresolved. 73 74 5. FISHING Since Mesolithic times, the Lower Bann has long been renowned for its fishing, and for its abundance of salmon and eels in particular. For many centuries, commercial fisheries have made a significant contribution to the region’s economy, and continue to do so today. 5.1 Salmon fisheries Salmon have been exploited on the Lower Bann since people first inhabited the area some 10,000 years ago. At Mount Sandel, for instance, countless salmon bones were unearthed during the archaeological excavation of a seasonal Mesolithic encampment (4086) overlooking the appropriately named Salmon Leap at the Cutts. The life cycle of salmon Unlike eels, Atlantic salmon (Salmo salar) are anadromous, spending most of their time at sea but migrating to fresh water to spawn. In the context of the Bann, their lifecycle begins in the headwaters of its various tributaries, where their eggs are deposited and fertilized in gravel depressions along the bed of the river. The eggs develop into fry which, after several years, undergo a physiological change which enables them to survive in salt water. During the spring and early summer, the smolts, as the juveniles are now known, form groups and migrate out to sea. Here they spend between one and eight years maturing into adults. When ready to spawn they regroup and return in shoals between May and October to the river in which they were born. As with eel migration, how they find their way back to their particular rivers is something of a mystery. Whilst salmon have no problem negotiating the various natural rapids along the river, the weirs present more of an obstacle. At both Carnroe (4179) and Movanagher (4200), diagonal fish passes are therefore an integral part of the navigation weirs erected across the river in the 1850s in connection with the Bann Navigation scheme. The 1930s’ flood barrages at the Cutts (4096), Portna (4229) and Toome (4339) also all have fish pass in the middle of their gate emplacements (fig 5.1). Once back in their headwaters, the fish lay and fertilize their eggs, so starting the life cycle anew. Unlike eels, the salmon do not die but return to sea. However, most are in such a poor state after their exertions that few make it back again. Fig 5.1 Left – Fish passes at Carnroe Weir. The one at the right is original and the one to its left was added in the 1930s. Right – Fish pass let into the upstream face of flood barrage at Portna. 75 Salmon netting and trapping Salmon stop feeding before the spawning part of their cycle and will therefore have built up body reserves prior to ascending the river. They will thus be at their heaviest on arriving at the mouth of the river. Not surprisingly, therefore, the principal salmon fisheries along the Lower Bann were on its tidal stretch as far as the Cutts, where the freshwater begins. Over 100 tons of salmon per year are reported as having been taken along this stretch in the 1790s. Cranagh Fishery Although salmon were netted at the mouth of the Articlave River (4018) near the Barmouth, the first major fishery to be encountered was at the Cranagh (4032), just downstream from what is now the University of Ulster. Here the salmon congregated as they awaited the tide to take them upstream. Richard Pococke, in his 1752 Tour in Ireland noted: “I rid a mile below Colerain to see the salmon fishery which is very great; they catch 'em with what I think is called a seinenet that goes across the river, and so they draw in the net. They have caught sometimes, tho' very rarely 2500 in a day; sell 'em here for a penny a pound fresh, but most of 'em are salted.” The aforementioned seine net (also called draft nets) was loaded into flat-bottomed rowing boat known as a coble and ‘shot’ across the river in advance of the fish moving upstream with the tide (fig 5.2). Upwards of 200m long by 4-5m high, such a net had a rope along its bottom which was weighed to keep it on the bed of the river. Its top was buoyed so that it floated, so forming a continuous net barrier across the river. Once the fish had arrived at the net, one end of it was taken in a downstream direction across to the opposite bank. The net thus formed an envelope around the fish, from which there was no escape. As the net was hauled in, this envelope became smaller and smaller, so concentrating the fish and making them easy to land. This procedure was repeated a number of times according to the availability of the salmon. Fig 5.2 Loading a net on to a coble (McDonald & Anderson, 1981, plate 37). Cutts Fishery The Cutts were the next main fishery (4096). This is the first natural rapid on the river and takes its name from an artificial cut made through it in 1613 to facilitate the passage of timber being floated downriver to Coleraine. Unlike the Cranagh, the water was very shallow at this point, enabling the fish to be caught with relative ease. Baynes’ depiction of the Cutts c.1830 shows assorted ‘loopers’ awaiting the fish; they were, so-called because of their use of a net on the end of a long stick, similar to those used by anglers to land their catch (fig 5.3). 76 Fig 5.3 'The Salmon Leap near Coleraine, Co Londonderry' by T.M. Baynes, c.1830. The Cutts, which also doubled as an eel fishery (section 5.2) is one of a number of salmon fisheries along the North Coast which are cited in an inquisition of 1630. A fish trap was constructed at it in the 1680s and others were added in the mid-1700s. Whilst randomly passing fish could be netted individually by a looper, the fish trap enabled them to be captured en masse and removed at will. The waterfall at the Cutts was substantially remodelled in the 1850s when a weir was built across the river by the Commissioners of Public Works as part of their Bann Navigation scheme. Set into it were four traps (also known as cribs), arranged as a pair on either side of a free gap through which the fish could swim unhindered (fig 5.4). A row of vertical timber stakes was placed across the top of the trap, the gaps being wide enough to let water through, but not the fish. Stakes were also arranged in a V configuration across the downstream end of the trap, with the apex pointing upstream. A gap in the apex allowed the fish, whose instinct was to move against the current, to enter the trap. As they could neither return whence they came, nor exit upstream, they were thus trapped. The cribs were then emptied of salmon at regular intervals. Screen Free gap Crib Direction of flow Direction of salmon movement Fig 5.4 Top left – Plan of Cutts salmon traps, 1858 (Commissioners of Public Works). Above – The traps today, looking upstream. Left – Schematic plan of traps (Mitchel 1949, fig.19). 77 Fishing was carefully regulated so as not to deplete stocks. At the Cutts, the traps could only be set on weekdays between March and mid August although, in practice, the main runs were over the three summer months from June to August. At all other times, no screens were allowed in the traps in order to give the fish a free passage. Of the Cranagh and Cutts fisheries, the former was by far the more important. In 1835, for example, the OSM reported that over 23,000 salmon were landed at the two stations, of which 80% were netted at the Cranagh. In all 73 tons were caught and sold at between four pence to one shilling per pound. Even at the minimum price, they would therefore have generated ‡2714, equivalent to well over ‡130,000 in today’s terms. A figure of ‡‰m is probably a more accurate estimate of how lucrative these fisheries were at that time. Upstream from the Cutts, there were small salmon fisheries at Portglenone, Newferry and Toome, all of which were discontinued around 1940.23 Salmon fishing rights Because of their economic value, the rights to catch salmon have always been zealously guarded. Their worth was well appreciated by the Anglo-Normans who settled the area in the late 12th century. The Bann fisheries are cited in a document of c.1260 and by 1300 had been granted by the Normans to Coleraine Friary. In 1608, James I granted the salmon and eel fisheries of the Lower Bann from Lough Neagh to the sea to the Irish Society to induce various London guilds to settle the lands confiscated by the King following the ‘flight of the Earls’ the previous year. The Irish Society did not manage the salmon fishery directly but, rather, leased it out. The consistently high runs of salmon which returned to the Bann year after year meant that very high rentals could be charged, the lessee then recouping his costs and generating a profit through the sale of the salmon which he now had the exclusive right to catch. In the 1620s, for example, the Bann salmon fishery was leased at ‡800 per annum (over ‡100,000 in today’s money). A lucrative salmon export trade developed, the fish being dispatched as far afield as Venice. In the mid-1840s, the fisheries were described thus: “The salmon fisheries of the Bann at Coleraine are important, and afford a very considerable export. Three and four hundred salmon have been more than once taken at a haul; and it is said that, on one occasion, the enormous number of 1500 were taken at a haul. It is certain that 750 fish were taken on one day, in July, 1824, the weight of which reached two tons”.24 Since the 1980s, the salmon fishery has been managed on the Irish Society’s behalf by Bann System Ltd, a wholly-owned subsidiary. In 2011, this organisation was wound up and the fishery is now administered directly by the Society. Ice houses Because of their highly perishable nature, salmon were traditionally preserved in salt before being dispatched to market. During the early 1800s, the use of ice to preserve the fish in a fresh state came into general use around the North Coast. Ice houses were built to store ice gathered from shallow ponds over the winter months. With the advent of the railway and steam ships, the exporting of salmon packed in ice to Britain became a viable proposition and greatly boosted the fisheries’ value. 23 24 Bassett, G.H. (1888), Book of Antrim, p.43. Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland, 1844-45, p.477. 78 One ice house is recorded within the study area, at the Crannagh salmon fishery (4035; fig 5.5). Samuel Lewis, writing in 1837, noted: “An extensive and lucrative salmon fishery is carried on at Crannagh, on the Bann, under lease from the Irish Society; there is but one season during the year, beginning in May and ending on the 12th of August. The quantity taken is generally about 190 tons the whole of which is packed in ice and conveyed by smacks and steam-boats to Liverpool and other distant markets, where they are in high estimation for their size and flavour”.25 The ice house was demolished in 2006 to make way for a new building and no traces survive. Fig 5.5 Ice house at the Cranagh, 1960s (NIEA: McCutcheon Collection). Salmon conservation As a result of disease and over-fishing at sea, the annual runs of salmon along the Irish coast has been in decline since the later 1900s. This has forced many fisheries to close, including the world-famous one at Carrick-a-Rede, near Bushmills in the early 2000s. Since 1996, salmon trapping has been abandoned at the Cutts. In addition, the Government bought out the Irish Society’s right to net fish on the tidal section of the Bann in 2001 under the European Union’s Salmonid Enhancement Programme. Salmon fishing by rod does, however, continue upstream from the Cutts as will be discussed in section 5.3. 5.2 Eel fisheries Of the various species of eel, it is the European eel (Anguilla anguilla) which is of relevance to the Lower Bann. On par with salmon in their nutritional value, they are highly prized as a delicacy, being exported to Britain and the continent where they are jellied and smoked. Their trapping along the river has been documented since the 16th century and has been a major source of revenue ever since. To better understand the prevalence of eels on the Lower Bann and how they are caught in the way they are, an understanding of their life cycle is advantageous. The life cycle of eels Eels are hatched in the Saragossa Sea, off the Gulf of Mexico. Their eggs float to the surface and are carried by the Gulf Stream north-eastwards towards Europe. By the time they reach the Irish coast over the next three years or so, they have developed into glass eels upwards of 8cm long and so called because of their transparency. As eels are catadromous, they spawn in the sea but actually live in fresh water. Nearing land, they therefore sense the freshwater discharging from major rivers such as the Shannon, Erne, Foyle and Lower Bann. It is the last river which attracts them especially as it discharges from Lough Neagh. At just under 400sq.km in extent, this is the largest freshwater lake in Britain and Ireland. With its oxygenated waters and abundant supply of food such as the larvae of the 25 Lewis, S. (1837), Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, vol.1, p.386. 79 Chironomid midge (Lough Neagh fly), it is the perfect environment for the maturation of the eels. On entering fresh water, glass eels pigment and lose their transparency. The elvers, as they are now known, migrate upriver during the spring and early summer on spring tides. These higher-than-average tides occur roughly once a fortnight and facilitate the upstream movement of millions of elvers at a time; during the 1937 season, for example, 42 million elvers are estimated to have migrated upriver. Whilst eels have no problem negotiating natural rapids as they make their way up-river, navigation weirs and flood control sluices are more difficult owing to their steepness. Their first obstacle is the waterfall at the Cutts (4096). Here, William Thompson, writing in 1856 noted: “At an early period of the summer it is an interesting sight to mark the thousands of young eels there ascending the stream. Hay-ropes are suspended over the rocky parts to aid them in overcoming such obstructions. At these places, the river is black with the multitudes of young eels, about three or four inches long, all acting under that mysterious impulse that prompts them to push their course onwards to the lake”.26 The various weirs built by the Commissioners of Public Works in the 1850s as part of the Lower Bann Navigation scheme also created potential obstructions. To avoid impeding the elvers’ progress, narrow sloping channels were constructed at one or both ends of the weirs, up which the elvers slithered, again assisted by straw ropes to improve their grip (fig 5.6). Fig 5.6 Elver slip on right bank at Cutts Weir (4096). Once the elvers finally reach Lough Neagh, they develop into juveniles known as brown or yellow eels, and finally into silver eels - fully mature adults aged 15-20 years old and upwards of a metre long. Their instinct is now to return to the Saragossa Sea to breed, spawn and die, thus bringing their life cycle full circle. The exodus from the lough of silver eels occurs en masse during the autumn and early winter, the vast majority departing between August and November. Their exact time of departure depends on the phase of the moon, flow of the river and weather. Moonless nights with a southerly wind and the river in spate are ideal conditions. Eels cannot feed on their return journey to the Saragossa Sea as their gut disappears once they enter saltwater. They therefore need to have built up sufficient reserves to sustain them on their way. They are thus at their plumpest when leaving the lough. This, coupled with the fact that they move in such vast numbers at fairly predictable times down the only channel out of Lough Neagh makes them ideal for catching on an industrial scale. Eel weirs On Lough Neagh, eels are caught with baited long lines and seine nets. Along the river, however, they are taken using traps at purpose-built weirs. Thirteen such structures are recorded, all concentrated at the four main rapids along the river (fig.5.7). 26 Thompson, W. (1856), Natural History of Ireland, vol.4, p.222. 80 Cutts Movanagher Portna Toome Fig 5.7 Location of recorded eel weirs on Lower Bann. A traditional eel weir comprises a series of contiguous timber V structures across the river, the points of which face downstream. The sides of these structures are of wattle fencing (usually hazel) secured to stakes driven into the bed of the river. Known as skeaghs, they direct the migrating eels into a hole, or eye, at the apex of each vee; the fences are easily replaced if damaged by flotsam. A net is set behind the eye to catch the eels as they pass through the eye of the trap. Known as a coghill net, this long cylindrical net tapers to a closed end from which the eels cannot escape. During the course of a night’s fishing, the net is regularly emptied into an adjacent tank through which the water flows and where the eels can be held for upwards of several weeks (depending on demand) prior to processing. During the day, the nets were lifted out to dry and any necessary repairs effected. Since the 1830s, eel fisheries are recorded as having operated at 13 points along the Lower Bann at one time or another with concentrations at Toome, Portna and Movanagher, (fig 5.8). With the exception of the trap at the Cutts, all were purpose-built eel weirs. The one where the river enters Lough Beg (4297) seems to have been a temporary structure, thrown up for the season and then taken apart; there may well have been more of these transitory structures, yet to be recorded. 81 Fig 5.8 Aerial view of Movanagher eel weir (4197) in 1965, looking downstream. Most eel weirs were erected on shallow rocky shoals where the current was fastest and the fish could more easily be funnelled into the traps. In most cases there was just a single weir across the river, their number of eyes generally ranging from two to eight. In the vicinity of Portna, there were three instances where the fishery had an upper and lower weir within a stone’s throw of each other (4226, 4227 and 4231). Since the passing of the Fisheries (Ireland) Act of 1842, the law has required the maintenance of a free gap at an eel weir. Also known as the Crown Gap, King’s or Queen’s Gap (depending on the monarch), this amounted to at least one-tenth of the river’s width. It gave eels (and other fish as well) the chance to pass unimpeded, thereby increasing their likelihood of reaching their spawning grounds. Navigation and drainage issues Prior to the stipulation of a free gap, eel weirs were an obvious obstacle to navigation. Moreover, because their skeaghs were densely woven to prevent the eels passing through, the weirs also impeded the current and caused backwatering. This was particularly problematic at Toome where even a small rise in the river’s level could cause extensive flooding around the margin of the lough because of its flat topography. Given that the aim of the 1850s Bann Scheme was to improve navigation and drainage, the eel weirs presented a special challenge. Of the 10 fisheries known to have existed prior to the mid-1850s, five were bypassed by canals during the scheme; of these, only one was demolished (table 5.1). Of the five on the navigable stretches of river, four were removed. The surviving one at Toome (4311) had a sufficient depth of water in its free gap to allow navigation. The fact that most of the bypassed weirs were not demolished and vice versa therefore suggests that the weirs’ hindrance of the navigation was of greater concern of the Commissioners of Public Works than their adverse effect on drainage. Demolished Not demolished By-passed by canal 1 (4227) 4 (4906, 4195, 4197, 4226) 5 Not bypassed 4 (4231, 4297, 4306, 4316) 1 (4311) 5 Total 5 5 10 Table 5.1 Weirs marked on the 1830s and ‘50s OS maps which survived or were demolished as a result of the Bann navigation/drainage scheme. 82 In the 1930s, two of the weirs at Toome (4311 and 4326) were replaced with a new one (4313). A new eel weir was also built at Portna (4228). Both these weirs were financed by the Government. The new weir at Toome was a radical departure from the traditional design in several respects (fig 5.9). There was a mesh butterfly gate at the eye of each trap which could be closed to redirect eels into an adjoining trap. Their free movement along the face of the weir was facilitated by the fact that there were no skeaghs between the eyes. Moreover, because skeaghs were absence, the eyes could be placed much closer together than before, resulting in more traps for a given width of weir. The increased number of eyes also gave a more even distribution of eels in the nets than previously, making them easier to empty during heavy runs. Collecting tank Net Net Collecting tank Foot bridge Footbridge Eye Butterfly gates (closed) Skeaghs Direction of flow and eel movement Butterfly gates (open) Wing skeagh Direction of flow and eel movement Fig 5.9 Schematic diagram of a traditional 3-eye weir (left), and 10-eye modern weir (right). Not to scale. The Portna eel weir (4228) was even more innovatory, comprising a single vee weir with its apex pointing up rather than downstream(fig 5.10). There was a gap in the apex for salmon and when this was blocked off, the eels were forced down the sides of the weir where they passed into narrow channels and were trapped in tanks. No nets or skeaghs were involved as the eels were collected automatically. Footbridge over Collecting tanks Whilst this ‘self-fishing’ concept was fine in theory, in practice it failed as the weir was positioned too close to the flood gates just upstream. The currents thus generated by the weir were apparently not conducive to the eels being caught in this way. Direction of flow and eel movement Butterfly gate (closed) Butterfly gate (open) A similar weir was proposed just below the Cutts Weir but was never constructed. Fig 5.10 Schematic plan of Portna self-fishing weir (after Evans, 1949). Not to scale. Fish pass screen By the mid-1970s, only four eel fisheries remained in operation: the netting station at the Cutts (4096), and the weirs at Movanagher (4197), Portna (4226), and Toome (4313). 83 Eel processing and distribution The principal market for Bann eels has always been Billingsgate Market in London, where they are bought by dealers for processing into jellied eels. There is also an insatiable demand from the continent, particularly Holland and Germany, where smoked eels are regarded as a delicacy. Eels, like all fish, have a very limited shelf live and it is paramount to get them to market without delay, ideally within 24 hours of being caught. Their processing is a straightforward enough task, entailing grading, returning undersized ones, packing in ice and dispatching them live to market so that they arrive in the freshest possible state. When the Antrim - Cookstown railway was in operation from 1856 to 1950, the boxed eels were dispatched from Toome Station to the cross-channel ports for shipment to England. In more recent years, they were also freighted by air to Amsterdam for distribution to specialist smokeries. Today, they are sent by air to London, whence a proportion is transported by lorry to the continent. Eel fishing rights The right to catch eels on Lough Neagh and the Bann down to the Cutts were granted by Charles II to Arthur Chichester, 1st Earl of Donegal in 1661, and eventually passed to the Shaftesbury Estate. However, the right to catch eels on the lough was claimed repeatedly by local fishermen. It was a recurring bone of contention, particularly from the mid-1800s when the value of eels increased due to an increase in exports as a result of the inception of the railways and steamboats. The local fishermen claimed the right to exploit the lough and questioned whether Charles II actually owned it before granting its fishing to the Earl. Understandably, the Shaftesburys were anxious to discourage the catching of brown eels in the lough as it diminished the stock of migrating silver eels. The matter ended up in the High Court several times, but the estate’s rights to the river and lough were repeatedly upheld. In 1925, the Shaftesbury Estate leased their eel rights to Toome Eel Fishery Ltd. In 1959, this company sold its lease to Toome Eel Fishery NI Ltd, a consortium of British and Dutch eel merchants. In 1965, a group of local fishermen formed themselves into the Lough Neagh Fishermen’s Co-Operative Society Ltd and bought a one-fifth share in this company. The Co-Op eventually raised enough capital to buy it out completely in 1971. It now has the rights to all eel fishing in Lough Neagh and the non-tidal section of the Lower Bann, making it the largest commercial eel fishery in Western Europe. The Co-Op also acquired the fishing rights to Lough Neagh, the principal catches in which are pollan and dollaghan (Lough Neagh trout). Eel recruitment The ‘recruitment’ of elvers, as their annual influx up the Bann is known, varies markedly from year to year; e.g. it was 19.3 million in 1977, but only 0.7 million six years later. During the 1930s, when the second Bann drainage scheme caused disruption at the weirs and along the bed of the river, the migrating elvers were trapped in tanks at the top of the elver passes on the Cutts Weir. They were then transported upriver by road tanker and released at Portna, Portglenone, New Ferry and Toome. So successful was this ‘trap and transport’ method that, except for a hiatus from 1946 to 1959, it has been practised ever since. The traditional straw ropes are still laid down at the Cutts to assist the elvers, all of which are now released directly into Lough Neagh. 84 Eel decline Since the late 1970s, there has been an inexorable fall in natural recruitment (fig 5.11). From 1984 onwards, this drop-off has been mitigated to some extent through the importation of elvers from the River Severn to augment the lough’s native stock. 20 15 10 5 0 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 Fig 5.11 Natural eel recruitment, 1965-2008 (millions of elvers). Fiveyear moving average in red (DCAL 2010). This decline in the number of returning eels has now spread to all eel fisheries throughout Europe, but the reasons behind it are still not fully understood. Nevertheless, the effect has been to force up the price of elvers, making their importation to Lough Neagh much less attractive than before, despite the rising price of silver eels due to increasing world-wide demand, particularly from Asia. Despite the supplementation of the elvers’ natural recruitment, the number of silver eels caught along the river has also undergone a long-term decline since the early 1980s (fig 5.12). Whereas in the 1960s, their catch was typically in excess of 200 tons, by the early 2000s it was usually well below 100 tons. This fall-off is also reflected in the declining numbers of brown eel caught on the lough. Interestingly, the proportion of silver eels caught each year relative to the total number of eels has also fallen. 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 85 1995 2000 2005 Fig 5.12 Silver eels caught in Bann, 19652008 (in tonnes). Five-year moving average in red (DCAL 2010). Eel conservation In an effort to conserve stocks, the Fishermen’s Co-Op has introduced a number of measures over and above those required by legislation such as the Eel Fishing Regulations (N.I.) 1979. It limits the intensity and duration of fishing for brown eels on the lough, restricts the daily catch per boat, and obliges under-sized eels to be returned. These measures are policed by the Co-Op and Fisheries Conservancy Board. On the river, the law allows the catching of silver eels only for nine months from the start of June to the end of the following February. In practice, however, the fishery is only operational for a four-month period between September and Christmas. Additional conservation measures also include the closure of the Movanagher eel weir (4197) in 1995 to allow a higher level of eel escapement. At the Cutts, the Co-Op has, since 2006, taken a lease of the Irish Society’s eel fishing right here. However, it has deliberately not exercised this right, again to maximise the escapement of eels to the sea. Now, only the Portna (4226) and Toome (4313) fisheries are operational (fig 5.13). Fig 5.13 Top: Downstream eel weir at Portna. This structure is of traditional design, but its timber skeaghs have been replaced with perforated metal ones. Bottom: Toome Eel Weir is of modern design, with butterfly gates on the eyes of the traps but no skeaghs apart from those at either end. 86 5.3 Angling today With the abandonment of commercial salmon netting on the tidal section of the Lower Bann and trapping at the Cutts, the focus of fishing on the river has shifted to rod angling for game and coarse fish. Fishing beats The Irish Society holds the rights to all fishing on both the freshwater and tidal sections of the Lower Bann; the Lough Neagh Fishermen’s Co-Op has the rights to scale fish on the lough itself. Until recently, the Society’s rights were administered by Bann Systems Ltd, but they are now managed directly. Sea trout are caught in the tidal section and the Society also maintains fishing beats at the Cutts, Carnroe, Movanagher and Portna (fig 5.14). These spots are especially good for salmon as they tend to congregate on their way upstream due to the oxygenating effects of the nearby weirs. The Society also lets a beat at Portna to the Kilrea & District Angling Association. In an effort to conserve stocks, onerous restrictions are placed on fishing at these beats. At Carnroe, for example, only eight rods are allowed per day and each rod has a daily bag limit of two fish. Numerous fishing stands (also known as pegs) have also been constructed at a various places along the bank for coarse fishing, notably bream, perch, pike and roach. Fig 5.14 Game fishing at Carnroe (4174). Left – The fall of water at the weir oxygenates the water. Top – Landing facilities developed by Bann System Ltd on the right bank at Carnroe, just below the lock. Fish hatcheries An experimental fish hatchery was established at Movanagher in 1893 (4194). Here the eggs were stripped from the mature females and placed in trays through which water from the river was constantly passed, in the hope that they would eventually hatch. It is uncertain how successful this hatchery was and no traces of it survive. 87 A salmon hatchery was started by the Irish Society at Portna in 1898 (4218). Given that it is reported to have cost ‡1000 to set up, it was obviously a much bigger enterprise than the one at Movanagher. It was still in operation some 50 years later as, in 1948, some 300,000 eggs are reported as being hatched in 13 crockery trays. Kilrea & District Angling Club now operate a trout and salmon hatchery at this location (fig 5.15). Fig 5.15 Kilrea Angling Club’s hatchery at Portna. A fisheries research laboratory was also operated by the Department of Agriculture just downstream from the Cutts Lock (4089) from 1969 to 1992. Fish farms There are two fish farms on the Lower Bann, at Movanagher and Loughinsholin. The one at Movanagher (4194) is on the island between the canal and river and was started in 1967 by the Fisheries Division of the Department of Agriculture. It specialises in the hatching and rearing of brown and rainbow trout up to a catchable size for stocking the Department's angling waters through-out Northern Ireland (fig 5.16). Fig 5.16 Outdoor fish tanks at Movanagher Fish Farm. Loughinsholin Fish Farm (4215), immediately downstream from Portna Lock, is a commercial enterprise started in the mid-1980s. Trout fry are imported from a hatchery in Crumlin and raised here for a further six to seven months before being dispatched to supermarkets. 88 6. EXTRACTIVE INDUSTRIES The bedrock of the Lower Bann Valley was exploited for building stone, and its drift deposits for clay, diatomite and peat and sand (fig 6.1). Stone Clay Diatomite Peat Sand Fig 6.1 Industrial extraction sites along Lower Bann. 6.1 Stone The underlying geology of the Lower Bann Valley is basalt, laid down in the Paleocene Epoch some 60 million years ago. There are numerous small basalt quarries, of which two are of particular note as they were used during the construction works relating to the Lower Bann Navigation in the 19th and 20th centuries. Carnanee Quarry (4025), on the right bank near the Barmouth, supplied the stone used to construct the moles during the Barmouth Schemes in the 1880s and 1930s (section 4.1). The quarried rock was transported along a narrow-gauge contractor's railway (4010) and also shipped from an adjoining jetty (4026). 89 Tamlaght Quarry (4190), east of Moneydig, supplied the stone for the locks and weirs at Carnroe, Movanagher and Portna which were built by the Commissioners of Public Works during the 1850s Lower Bann Navigation scheme (chapter 3). The quarried stone was shipped along the river from a nearby quay on the left bank. 6.2 Clay Clay was used to make bricks, pottery, tiles and pipes, and 23 sites where clay was dug and/or fired are recorded along the Lower Bann. It was for bricks that the clay was primarily exploited. One pottery is, however, recorded – on the 1832 OS map at Glasgort, near the former airfield at Aghadowey (4150). Tile production is noted in the vicinity of Agivey in the 1845-46 Parliamentary Gazetteer, but no actual tile works have been identified within the study area, nor any pipe manufactory. The production of bricks was widespread between Agivey and Toome in the 19th and earlier 20th centuries. An early reference is given by W.S. Mason in his 1814 account of Finvoy Parish: “bricks … are here made in great plenty, of clay only found along the banks of the Bann”.27 The clay in question was diatomite, formed when the skeletons of millions of microscopic algae (diatoms) were deposited in shallow lakes in the post-glacial period c.10,000 years ago. These deposits stretch intermittently from Toome north through Portglenone to Ballynacree (north of Agivey Road Bridge), where they peter out. Also known as Kieselguhr or diatomaceous earth, and locally as Bann Clay, this type of clay comprises mostly silica with a small admixture of alumina. It is instantly recognisable as a crumbly white clayey layer some 15-60cm thick between the topsoil and underlying alluvial sands and gravels in the fields along the river (fig 6.2). Fig 6.2 Exposed diatomite layer (arrowed) on left bank just at Newferry West. Twentieth-century accounts of brick making indicate that the diatomite was mixed with ordinary clay before being hand-moulded into individual bricks. These were then spread out across the field to air dry. Upwards of several thousand bricks could be produced per day by a team working a particular area (fig 6.3). Once dried, the bricks would have been made up into a massive clamp which was then sealed and fired to convert them to proper bricks. The work was probably confined to the summer months when farm work was slack and the fields less prone to inundation. 27 Mason, W.S (1814), A Statistical Account of Ireland, vol.1, p.394. 90 Fig 6.3 Cutting and moulding diatomite into bricks near Portglenone (NMNI: Welch Collection). Brickfields Nineteen brickfields are shown on the OS maps, 15 of them on the 1832-33 edition. However, their number and distribution should be regarded only as a snapshot at a particular point in time. As pits became exhausted and new ones were opened, so the distribution and size of the brick fields would have fluctuated constantly. The 1857 and 1905 OS maps each show only two brickfields, this is probably a vast underrepresentation and a quirk of mapping (a brickfield not being a permanent structure) rather than the situation on the ground. That brick making by hand was still being carried on in the late 1800s and early 1900s, despite the inception of mechanised brick factories elsewhere, is confirmed by the fact that brickfields were regularly visited by amateur archaeologists to search for prehistoric flint artifacts in the sediments underlying the diatomite. Many of the brickfields mapped by the Ordnance surveyors are mentioned in passing in the Ordnance Survey Memoirs. The 1834 memoir for Ahoghill Parish, for example, notes “The banks of the river are low and afford abundance of clay for the manufacture of bricks of which a number are made. They are sold at from 6s 6d to 10s per 1000, according to quality”. The cash income from the selling of bricks would have been a very welcome boost to a family’s income, particularly as the raw ingredient was free. Clay extraction would obviously have left the land useless for agriculture and prone to flooding. It was doubtless for this reason that the Clothworkers Company attempted to prohibit brick making on their lands to the east of Aghadowey airfield. Whether they succeeded is less certain, as a number of brickfields are nevertheless depicted on the 1832 map. The majority of bricks were doubtless fired on the spot in a clamp built for the occasion. Because of the nature of the material and relatively low firing temperature (peat rather than coal being used), the resultant brick did not weather very well on outside walls exposed to the elements and were more suited to internal party walls etc. 91 Three brick kilns are explicitly captioned on the OS maps – one in 1832 at Tamlaght (4186), and two on the 1905 edition – at Drumeil (4160) and Ballynease-Macpeake (4273). Without further research, however, it is unclear whether these represent a more industrial scale of brick production using a permanent kiln or simply reflect the presence of three temporary clamps at the time of survey. Whatever the case, there is no evidence of any industrial production on the scale found along the River Lagan and Belfast Hills in the later 1800s and early 1900s. Today, apart from water-filled clay pits at Glasgort (4146; fig 6.4) and Drumneil (4162), there is no trace of the brick industry, the fields having been reclaimed for grazing. Fig 6.4 Water-filled clay pits at Glasgort, near Aghadowey. 6.3 Diatomite By the early 1900s, it was realised that diatomite, hitherto used for bricks, was of far greater economic value if it was purified as it could then be used in a wide variety of industrial products such as abrasives, filters, fillers, dynamite and insulation. Once industrial abstraction started, production rose continuously through the first half of the 20th century, rising to a peak during the Second World War (fig 6.5). 160,000 140,000 120,000 100,000 80,000 60,000 40,000 20,000 0 19101910 ’20 1920 ’30 1930 ’40 1940 ’50 1950 ’60 1960 ’70 1970 ‘80 1980 Fig 6.5 Tons of diatomite produced along Lower Bann, 1910-82 (Smith 1985). 92 Vegetable or mineral? The economic status of diatomite was brought into question in the 1930s as a result of compensation claims by landowners on whose properties dredged spoil was being dumped in during the Lower Bann drainage scheme. Under the 1903 Land Act, the Land Commission retained the mineral rights to any lands sold off to their former tenants. However, diatomite was classed with gravel, sand and clay and deemed not to be a mineral. Where it occurred, it was thus the property of anyone who purchased the tenancy of their land from the Commission. In 1928, the Commission reclassified diatomite as a mineral. Under the terms of the 1903 Act, it was therefore the property of whoever owned the land at the time of the 1928 determination. Consequently, any tenant who had purchased his holding from the government prior to 1928 could claim that he was the owner of what was now regarded as a mineral. He was therefore entitled not only to compensation for any loss in value of agricultural land due to spoil dumping, but an extra payment for the loss of diatomite as it would now be impractical to abstract. However, anyone who bought his land after the 1928 determination could not claim this extra bit of compensation as the rights to the diatomite were retained by the Land Commission (i.e. the government) at, and after, the date of transfer. Diatomite factories Three diatomite factories in which the clay was refined by milling, grading and drying are recorded within the study area – one at Newferry West and two at Toome. The earliest of these factories was the one established around 1898 by Messrs Grant on the right bank of the Bann just below the road bridge at Toome (4314). It was associated with diatomite fields in neighbouring Brecart townland. Some of the processes undertaken at this site are documented in a series of photographs taken by W.A. Green in the 1930s (fig 6.6). The factory was taken over by the United Kingdom Peat Moss & Litter Co, and then by Messrs William Kenyon. It stopped work sometime in the 1950s, when production was transferred to a new factory on the opposite side of the Bann. The old site was eventually demolished and no traces now survive. Fig 6.6 Grants’ Factory, Toome. Top left: Digging diatomite; Top middle: Diatomite stacked to dry; Top right: Processing factory at Toome; Far left: Awaiting grinding; Left: Grinding dried diatomite (NMNI: Green Collection). 93 The second factory to be established was the one at Newferry West, set up by the Diatomite Company in 1908 (4276). It, too, had extensive diatomite workings in its neighbourhood, a narrow-gauge railway, and a quay from which the purified clay was dispatched to Toome Station. Although the factory closed in the 1970s, the main mill building, settling tanks (in which the clay was mixed with water to separate out impurities) and quay all survive in a remarkably intact state of preservation (fig 6.7). Of particular note are the mills in which the clay was pulverized - possibly the only such examples to survive in the province, if not the whole of Ireland. Fig 6.7 Newferry Diatomite Works. Top left – Processing mill. Above – Settling tanks. Far left – Remains of quay. Left – Grinding mill. Kenyon’s new factory at Toome lay in Creagh townland (4308; fig 6.8), adjacent to the main Belfast-Derry road, where there were also extensive diatomite deposits. Here production continued until increasing foreign competition from foreign imports forced its closure in the 1990s. Some of the original buildings have since been incorporated into a small industrial estate. Fig 6.8 Former diatomite factory building at Creagh, now converted to commercial use. 94 6.4 Peat The extensive floodplain of the Lower Bann is an ideal environment for the growth of blanket bog, much of which has long been dug as a fuel by the locals. Its exploitation on an industrial scale appears to have commenced in the first quarter of the 20th century, and three such sites are recorded. It would have been especially valuable during the First World War, not only as a fuel as coal was then scarce, but also for sterile wound dressings. Two peat works are explicitly captioned on the 1926 OS maps on the left bank of the Bann in the vicinity of Portglenone, at Tyanee and Ballynease. In both cases, diatomite was probably extracted before the peat working started. The Tyanee works (4242), 2.5km north of Portglenone, was supplied with peat from the adjacent bog by means of a narrow-gauge railway some 300m long. There was also a landing stage on the river, from which it was dispatched. The works at Ballynease (4267), 1km south of the village, produced granulated peat; it also had a landing stage, but an even longer railway at c.600m (fig 6.9). Fig 6.9 Granulated peat factory, Ballynease, 1930s (NMNI: Green Collection). The only industrial-scale peat works still in operation is at Ballynease-Macpeake and Ballynease-More townlands, to the north-west of Newferry (4274). Diatomite was extracted from the ‘Ferry Rough’, as this area was known, in the 1920s by the Diatomite Company Ltd. By the Second World War, the emphasis had switched to peat extraction. Here it was hand dug by the United Kingdom Peat Moss Litter Co, dried, then transported along a narrow-gauge railway to a roadside milling plant where it was powdered and bagged for horticultural use. Production continues to this day under Bulrush Horticultural Ltd (fig 6.10). Fig 6.10 Panorama of Bulrush peat bog at Ballynease, from north. 95 6.5 Sand Aside from recreational cruising, the biggest commercial operation on any of Ireland’s inland lakes and rivers is the extraction of sand from Lough Neagh. Its bed contains vast deposits laid down during and after the last ice age. Unlike salt-laden beach sand, these deposits do not have to be washed prior to use in building mortar and concrete. George Bassett, writing in 1888, noted the increasing amount of sand being taken from the lough in the vicinity of Toome, much of which was dispatched to Belfast for the construction industry. In the 1950s and ‘60s, the sand industry expanded rapidly due to the post-war building boom and increasing use of concrete. At the Creagh, for example, a concrete block production plant (4300) was set up and utilized sand quarried from the nearby southeastern end of Lough Beg. The main focus of activity was, however, on Lough Neagh. At Toome, the principal firm of sand merchants was Messrs H & W Scott. In the 1950s and ‘60s, they bought a number of redundant barges from Messrs Guinness in Dublin for transporting sand dredged from the bed of the lough to Toome Quay via the canal and lock (4320; fig 6.11). Barges formerly used by Kellys the coal merchants on the River Lagan, Belfast, were also used for moving sand about. Fig 6.11 A grab-bucket crane is used to discharge sand on to waiting lorries at Toome Quay (Savage, 2004). Scott’s subsequently opened several quays around the lough shore and, in 1971, acquired Hutchinson’s Quay (4340), at the west end of Toome Weir on the lough side. The firm was taken over by the construction firm Farrans, and they in turn by Northstone (NI) Ltd who continue to operate from this and other sites around the lough (fig 6.12). Today’s fleet of sand barges comprises mostly second-hand Dutch barges, the size of which prevents them being used on the canal. Fig 6.12 Northstone’s sand discharging facilities at Hutchinson’s Quay. 96 Whereas the sand was previously dredged, it is now sucked up as a slurry, the excess water and silt spilling overboard as the sand settles in the hold of the barge. The load is then taken to the quayside, re-mixed with water and sucked out. It is then graded (‘classified’) into sharp and fine sand for general building and plastering work respectively, before onward shipment by road. Two barges formerly used on the lough have recently been refurbished for use as interpretation centres. An ex-Kelly’s coal barge JK16 Sandmartin is used as a floating visitors’ centre at Rams Island. At Oxford Island, at the southern end of Lough Neagh, Craigavon District Council have recently put on display the Enterprize, a canal barge built by the Portadown Foundry in the early 1900s for use on the Lagan Canal. It was subsequently converted to sand work, and has now been refurbished by the Council as a museum. 97 98 7. MANUFACTURING AND POWER GENERATION Prior to the widespread adoption of steam engines in the 19th century, water was the principal source of motive power for manufacturing industries, being used for grain milling, textile production, distilling, brewing, and saw milling. Paradoxically, although the Bann has a plentiful supply of water, it was difficult to harness directly because of the river’s generally flat gradient and proneness to flooding, and most watermills were located on its tributaries rather than on it. Steam power was used in later years and has since been superseded by electricity, resulting in a range of manufacturing sites, most of which are, unsurprisingly, in and around Coleraine (fig 7.1). Grain Textiles Drink Saw Modern Fig 7.1 Manufacturing sites along Lower Bann. 7.1 Grain milling Two water-powered grain mills are recorded from the early 1600s. Raven’s 1622 map of Movanagher shows one on a small stream flowing into the Bann just south of the settlement established by the Mercers Company in 1615 (4196). The other mill was in what is now Railway Street, Coleraine; it was powered off the Brook which discharges into the Bann at the Quays (4052). 99 Flour milling Undoubtedly the largest grain mill in the entire study area was the one at Castleroe, on the west bank at the Cutts (fig 7.2). Standing five storeys high, it was erected c.1808 at a cost of ‡9000 by a consortium, which included the Fishmongers Company, for the production of flour from wheat. It contained eight sets of millstones driven by two waterwheels. Its size was due to the need for storage space for the wheat imported in bulk at harvest time, and for the flour prior to its dispatch, again in bulk. Operations were abruptly halted around 1820 when the mill was gutted by fire. Its shell was demolished in 1847 by the Commissioners of Public Works to make way for a quay to serve the adjoining lock. Fig 7.2 View of the Cutts by J.H. Campbell, 1815. The river is overlooked by the large flour mill and smaller kiln to its left (4095). 6.1.1 Stone quarries 7.2 Distilleries That this particular mill was located at the Cutts was not fortuitous, for it was one of the few points on the Lower Bann where there was an appreciable fall of water over a very short stretch of river. The mill could thus harness the requisite head and flow of water necessary to drive the stones and ancillary equipment without the expense of having to excavate a particularly long and wide headrace to take the water off the river to the waterwheels. Oatmeal milling Near to Castleroe flour mill was a more traditional corn mill, so called because it ground oats into oatmeal (fig 7.3).28 A mill is recorded hereabouts in the 1670s, but whether the present two-storey building is it or a later rebuild is uncertain. The construction of the weir and lock at the Cutts c.1850 necessitated the realignment of the head- and tail races from and back to the river. This mill has since been converted into a house and raised a floor. Although altered, it is now the only grain mill within the study area which has significant above-ground remains. Fig 7.3 Castleroe corn mill (4097). Its raising to three floors is clearly evident in the wall finish. There were also 19th century corn mills at Drumslade (4027) and at the Vow (4182), little or nothing of which now survives. 28 ‘Corn’ is the name given to the predominant cereal grown in a region, in this case oats. 100 Such water-powered mills were gradually superseded in the second half of the 1800s by steam-powered ones. Steam engines had the advantage over waterwheels in that they could be located anywhere and could be run on demand rather than having to rely on the availability of water. These advantages are evident at the Bann Steam Mills, Coleraine, where a flour mill was established near the centre of the town in the 1840s (4073). Like the one at Castleroe, it was gutted by fire in the mid-1870s. However, it was rebuilt and seemingly continued to function until later on in that century. 7.2 Flax and linen Turning to textiles, the processing of flax and its manufacture into white linen has been a pre-eminent industry in Ulster from the 1700s to mid-1900s, and particularly so since the inception of mechanised spinning and weaving in the mid-1800s. The transformation of the raw flax into linen entails five main processes: (1) scutching to remove the flax fibre from the rest of the plant, (2) spinning, to transform the fibre into yarn, (3) weaving the yarn into brown linen, and (4) finishing – turning brown into white linen by bleaching and beetling. All but the last of these processes are noted in the study area. Flax scutching Flax scutching mills were the most prevalent type of textile mill in Ulster, particularly from the 1860s onwards when there was a quantum leap in flax growing as a result a demand for linen brought about by the American Civil War.29 The First and Second World Wars also stimulated a demand for linen. Three flax scutching mills are recorded along the same watercourse at Loughan. The two in Mill Loughan still retain their waterwheels and some machinery (fig 7.4), but the third, further downstream in adjacent Fish Loughan, has disappeared. All three mills appear to have been operational during the Second World War. Fig 7.4. Mill Loughan flax mills. Far left: Waterwheel at the upper mill, made by D.M. Moore, Coleraine (4112). Left: Scutching berths at the lower mill (4113). There were also flax mills at the Vow (4180, 4181) and Moneygran (4232), but no traces of any of them survive. 29 The war caused a shortage of cotton imports from the southern states of America, and a consequential increase in demand for linen and home-grown flax. 101 Spinning Until the mid-1800s, the scutched flax was spun into yarn by hand. The inception of wet spinning using steam power in the 1830s revolutionised the industry and forced hand spinners out of business; whilst they could match the machine-made yarn in terms of quality, they were unable to do so in terms of price and quantity. One such spinning mill was at the Bann Steam Mills complex (4073), established in the 1840s along with the steam-powered flour mill noted in section 7.1. Another such mill which still survives, but which is outside the scope of this survey, is Balnamore, near Ballymoney, which was erected around 1850 (fig 7.5). Fig 7.5 Balnamore flax spinning mill. Weaving The adoption of power-loom weaving from the 1850s onwards also put paid to weaving on hand looms. One such weaving factory was built on the Strand Road, Coleraine by Edward Gribbon in 1857-58 to replace his hand-loom factory (fig 7.6). Production ceased in 1925 and the factory has since been demolished for redevelopment. Fig 7.6 Gribbon's Mill c.1908 (Coleraine Museum/ J. Gribbon). Just above the quay at Portglenone, a shirt making-up factory also operated for a time in the mid-1900s (4258). 7.3 Distilling and brewing A water-powered distillery and brewery were established at Drumaheglis around 1830 by the local landowner, James Moore (4137). However, operations had ceased by the 1850s and the site was subsequently converted into a woollen factory. Drumaheagles Orange Lodge took over the premises in 1894 and the present complex, still in the hands of the Orange Order, incorporates remnants of the original industrial site. 7.4 Saw milling The earliest saw mill in the study area is that established by Messrs Bellas, builders’ merchants, at Beresford Place, Coleraine in the 1870s (4074). Most of their timber was apparently imported through the harbour. This mill is cited on all the OS maps up to and including 1949, but the premises have since been redeveloped as a Tesco car park. 102 The 1904 OS map records a much smaller saw mill at Fish Loughan in what had been a flax mill (4114). An adjoining brick chimney, which still survives, implies that it was steam-powered. However, the mill seems to have reverted to scutching by the 1920s. A saw mill is also recorded at Glenone, near Portglenone, on the 1926 OS map (4265). It seems to have been driven by an engine (possibly a hot-bulb TVO engine), but little else of its history is known. In recent decades, the extensive tree plantings on the Bann dumps created by dredging operations in the 1930s have matured and are now being harvested by Forest Service. 7.5 Modern industry Several mid-20th century industrial sites have also been noted at Coleraine which reflect the town’s industrial growth in the aftermath of the Second World War. The first is the Chemstrand Factory (4082), established in 1958 for the production of Acrilan, a synthetic fibre used in clothes and carpets. Acrylonitrile, its principal raw ingredient, was imported in liquefied form to the Oil Jetty opposite the harbour (4050) and piped to the factory (fig 7.7). The factory became part of the Monsanto Group in 1963, and then part of the Montefibre Group in 1983. Production ceased 1986 and the site was demolished in the 1990s. It has since been developed as Riverside Retail Park. The second site of note is the Spanboard Factory which was built by the Ministry of Commerce on the site of Castleroe House (4099). When completed in 1960, it was leased to the Ulster Chipboard Company Ltd to provide an outlet for the Province’s timber growers. It acquired the name Spanboard in 1973 when taken over by Aaronson Brothers. In 1989, it became part of the Sonae Group and continues to manufacture various types of wood-based panels. Tangentially associated with a third factory, also of the post-war era, is the now-disused waste pipe (4043) which projects into the river downstream of the railway bridge at Coleraine from the former Benger's factory, established c.1948 for the production of butter, casein and milk powder. Fig 7.8 Chemstrand Factory (far left), and Oil Jetty, 1958 (left). 7.6 Hydro-power Since the mid-1800s, a number of schemes have been proposed to harness the river’s energy for mechanical power and for the generation of electrical power. McMahon’s mill proposals All the watermills cited above, except for the two at the Cutts, were powered off tributaries of the Bann rather than the river itself. Notwithstanding the paucity of mills along 103 it, John McMahon recognised the Bann’s potential to power watermills when drawing up his proposals for the Commissioners of Public Works in Ireland in the 1850s. He recognised that the impounding of the water above the weir at each lock along the Commissioners’ new navigation would not only give a sufficient depth of water for boats, but would also create a vast reservoir of water which could then be fed into a mill erected in its vicinity. The resultant head and flow of water would thus give virtually unlimited power for any mill erected downstream of each lock. McMahon’s plans, published in 1858, show potential mill sites on one or both sides of the locks at Portna, Movanagher, Carnroe and the Cutts (fig 7.8). However, only at the Cutts was a headrace channel actually built (4090), but the plan seems to have been abandoned as no actual mill was ever constructed thereafter. Fig 7.8 Proposed mill race at the Cutts Lock (left) and on both banks at Portna Lock (right). Local Authority proposal In 1920-21, representatives from Ballymena, Ballymoney, Coleraine, Portrush and Portstewart councils discussed the possibility of harnessing the waterfalls along the Lower Bann for electricity generation. However, the proposal was deemed to be impractical and abandoned. North Ulster Electricity Supply Bill In May 1923, a consortium of London businessmen attempted to introduce a bill to the fledgling Stormont parliament in which they proposed to supply most of Co Antrim and adjacent parts of Co Londonderry with electricity generated by the Lower Bann. The proposal entailed the heightening of the weir at Toome by 2ft in order to increase Lough Neagh’s storage capacity. The weirs at Portna and Movanagher were to be removed and the one at Carnroe raised by 30ft to create one enormous reservoir all the way upstream to Portna and beyond. The impounded water was then to be fed into a one megawatt hydro-power station at Carnroe. The proposal was estimated to cost upwards of ‡580,000 and also entailed abolishing the Lower Bann Navigation and buying out the eel fisheries at Toome, Portna and Movanagher. Far fetched as this bill might now seem, it failed not for any technical reasons, but simply because its did not follow proper parliamentary procedures. It was subsequently abandoned. 104 Resources Commission In June 1923, the Stormont Government set up a Commission on the Natural and Industrial Resources of Northern Ireland. Part of its remit was to examine how the province’s natural resources could best be exploited to create new industries and thus reduce reliance on traditional ones such as agriculture, linen, ship building and engineering. Electricity was seen to be a key element of any such developments and the 1923 Bann hydro-scheme was therefore re-appraised. After due deliberation, however, the committee concluded that it would not be cost effective, particularly in light of the fact that the Government was then in the process of improving the drainage of the Lower Bann, and the impounding of which would run wholly contrary to this strategy. Recent proposals In the mid-1990s, the Lower Bann Advisory Committee and Bann System Ltd examined the feasibility of constructing a hydro-electric station at the Cutts with an annual projected output of 6640 megawatt-hours. However, at the time of writing, this scheme has not been progressed. 105 106 8. RAILWAYS Ulster’s first railway opened between Belfast and Holywood, Co Down in 1839, and over the next two decades the rail network had been extended to all the major towns in the North. As a result of this frantic period of ‘railway mania’, both Coleraine and Toome were already part of this network before the Bann Navigation was finished in the late 1850s. The west side of the Bann Valley was also linked into the system in the 1880s, and for much of the 1900s, all the major towns and villages on both sides of the river were within reasonable reach of the railway. 8.1 Developments to 1860 Coleraine connections By the time the Lower Bann Navigation had been completed in 1857, Coleraine already had railway links with both Derry and Belfast. The first line to reach the town was that of the Londonderry & Coleraine Railway Company (LCR) in 1853. It ran around the coast from Derry and terminated at Waterside, on the left bank of the Bann immediately downstream from the town bridge. Two years later, in 1855, the line from Belfast also reached Coleraine en route to Portrush, having been extended from Ballymena by the Ballymena, Ballymoney, Coleraine & Portrush Junction Railway (BBCPJR) over the previous two years. The station was at Northbrook, where the present one now stands. Although built by the BBCPJR, the line was operated by the Belfast & Ballymena Railway (BBR), the company behind the line from Belfast to Ballymena, opened in 1848. Cookstown line In 1856, the Cookstown Branch Line was opened by the BBR between Randalstown and Cookstown, via Toome and Castledawson. The Bann was spanned at Toome by the five-span Carlisle Bridge, named after George Howard, 7th Earl of Carlisle, who was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland at that time (fig 8.1). It encompassed a swivelling opening section over the Lower Bann Navigation at its Co Antrim end. Fig 8.1 Carlisle Bridge, 1960s (NIEA: McCutcheon Collection). As Randalstown had already been connected to the main Belfast-Ballymena line in 1848 by the BBR, there was now a continuous rail link between both ends of the Lower Bann (fig 8.2). 107 Fig 8.2 Belfast-ColerainePortrush/Derry and Cookstown Branch lines. Selected stations only shown. The BBR changed its name to the Belfast & Northern Counties Railway (BNCR) in 1860. The following year, it bought over the Ballymena-Portrush line and also leased the Derry-Coleraine line from the LCR; it acquired the latter outright in 1871. Now, not only was Coleraine connected with Derry, Belfast, Toome and Cookstown, but the lines were all under the exclusive control of one company – the BNCR.30 The timing of the completion of the Lower Bann Navigation was unfortunate to say the least. The opening of all these lines between 1853 and 1856 now made it much more convenient to transport people, materials, goods and livestock by rail rather than water. Because of the competitive advantage of the railway, the navigation’s operation was therefore restricted largely to the movement of bulky, low-value materials obtained from the immediate environs of the river such as diatomite and sand. To facilitate the onward dispatch of these materials, a short narrow-gauge spur was laid from the main line to Toome Quay. 30 In 1879, the Great Northern Railway opened a line from Cookstown to Dungannon. As the latter was on the Portadown – Londonderry line, the connectivity of the Cookstown Branch line was greatly increased as a consequence. 108 Bann railway bridge 1 As noted above, the lines from Belfast and from Derry each had their own stations on opposite sides of the Bann at Coleraine. Passengers were transferred between them by horse-drawn coach. In 1857, the BBCPJR proposed the construction of a bridge across the river to link the two stations. It was to be situated c.100m below the town bridge, just downstream from the town quay which existed at that time. Understandably, this proposal met with strong opposition from shipping interests, despite the fact that the bridge was to have an opening section to allow ships to pass through. Moreover, the LCR had ambitions to extend its own line down the west side of the Bann to Castledawson and was not keen to see any future loss of traffic to the Coleraine-Belfast line. The proposal went to arbitration, was approved, but came to nothing as it failed to get parliamentary assent. Nothing daunted, the BBCPJR tried again in 1858 and this time succeeded in obtaining approval for a bridge further downstream, well beyond the confines of the town quay. William Dargan, the ‘father of Irish railways’ was tasked with its construction; he had already built both the Ballymena-Portrush and Cookstown Branch lines. Opening in November 1860, it is described by the railway historian J.R.L. Currie as “a structure of quite remarkable ugliness”.31 Some 133m long, it comprised 16 lattice truss girders on timber piles, with a swivelling opening section in the middle (fig 8.3). Fig 8.3 Late 1800s view of the first railway bridge (4051) over the Bann at Coleraine (NLI: Lawrence Collection). The new bridge required the realignment of the line from Derry, a new section from the river to Northbrook, and also abandonment of the final stretch to Waterside Station. That station was also closed, all operations being transferred to Northbrook (fig 8.4). Repairs were required after two steamers collided with it within a matter of months of each other in 1910. To Derry Linking line and bridge Northbrook Station Waterside Station To Belfast Fig 8.4 Reconfiguration of lines in Coleraine, 1860. 31 To Portrush Currie, J.R.L. 1973. The Northern Counties Railway, vol.1, p.98. 109 8.2 Later developments Derry Central line The single-track Derry Central line was opened in 1880 by the Derry Central Railway (DCR). It ran from Macfin, on the Belfast-Coleraine line, to Magherafelt, on the Cookstown Branch Line (fig 8.5) COLERAINE To Derry Macfin The Bann was crossed by a multi-span lattice girder bridge a short distance south of Macfin. As with the Carlisle Bridge at Toome, it had an opening section over the navigation at its Co Antrim end. (fig 8.6). Aghadowey Kilrea Toome Magherafelt To Belfast Although built by the DCR, this line was worked by the BNCR and eventually bought over by them in 1901. There was now a connection along the west side of the Lower Bann Valley as well as the east, all operated by the one company. Kilrea, until then served by a quay on the Bann, now had its own station, drawing even more traffic off the river. Fig 8.6 A train crosses the swivel section of the bridge en route from Magherafelt to Macfin. 110 Fig 8.5 Course of Derry Central Railway (in purple) between Macfin and Magherafelt. Selected stations only shown. Coleraine Harbour spur It had been envisaged that Portrush would be developed as a port for the benefit of Coleraine and to this end the BNCR extended the Coleraine-Portrush line on to the town’s harbour in 1866. However, with the completion of the moles at the Barmouth and extension of the town quay in the 1880s, the focus again reverted to Coleraine as a shipping port. In 1892, a spur from the railway station (rebuilt in 1882) to the quays was opened by the Coleraine Harbour commissioners (fig.4.16). Bann railway bridge 2 By 1910, the bridge of 1860 over the Bann at Coleraine was showing its age and was subject to load and speed restrictions. The line was now in the ownership of the Midland Railway (MR), who had acquired the BNCR in 1903. It obtained parliamentary consent to build a replacement bridge in 1914, but the intervention of the First World War delayed any remedial action being taken. Work eventually began in 1921, being undertaken by Sir A.G. Armstrong, Whitworth & Co. The new bridge was designed by Bowman Malcolm, the MR’s Engineer, and comprises 11 plate-girder spans with a total length of 240m. Unlike the earlier bridge, which had a horizontally-turning opening section, this one had a vertically-lifting section, similar to a drawbridge. Indeed, it has the distinction of being the first Strauss under-hung counter-balanced bascule bridge in Britain and Ireland and the only such example surviving in Ulster (fig 8.7). Fig 8.7 A boat passes through the bascule span of the new railway bridge (Currie, 1974, plate 90). The opportunity was also taken to iron out the two sharp curves on the existing line by locating it 350m downstream from the previous bridge and realigning the track on a gentler sweep (fig 8.8). To Derry New linking line and bridge To Portrush Old line and bridge Coleraine Station Harbour spur Fig 8.8 Reconfiguration of lines in Coleraine, 1924. To Belfast 111 The bridge opened in 1924, under the auspices of the London, Midland & Scottish Railway (LMS) which had taken over the Midland the previous year. The old bridge and associated line were demolished except for a 510m stretch on the east bank which was retained to keep the link between the quays and Coleraine Station. 8.3 Post-war closures and legacy Line closures In 1949, the LMS became part of the Ulster Transport Authority (UTA) and a programme of line rationalisation was implemented without delay. In the same year, the extension from Portrush station to the harbour was closed. The following year, the Derry Central Line, which had served the military encampments at Mullaghmore and Aghadowey during the Second World War, was closed except for goods traffic between Kilrea and Magherafelt. Passenger services on the ToomeMagherafelt section of the Cookstown line also ceased in 1950. Both lines closed entirely in 1959. The Coleraine Harbour spur saw its last train in 1963 and closed three years later. Railway legacy No traces of original end section of the Derry-Coleraine line, Waterside terminus or first railway bridge over the Bann at Coleraine survive. Parts of the course of the Coleraine Harbour spur are still traceable, although the line is long lifted (4056). Of the Cookstown branch line, the most significant feature within the study area is the Carlisle Bridge (4323). After the line was finally axed in 1959, the bridge was kept in place and was used for a time to carry vehicles whilst the adjacent road bridge was being replaced. It has since been demolished save for the abutments and pier at its navigation end (fig 8.9). Fig 8.9 Surviving section of Carlisle Bridge over Lower Bann Navigation at Toome. On the Derry Central line, the spans of the bridge at Macfin have likewise been dismantled save for the piers (fig 8.10). The original Belfast-Portrush line is still in use, albeit with a rebuilt town station. The line’s connection with the Derry line is along the 1920s’ realignment over the replacement bascule bridge (4044). Translink operates both lines. Fig 8.10 Remains of Macfin railway bridge (4136). 112 9. SECOND WORLD WAR With the evacuation of Dunkirk and surrender of France in June 1940, less than a year after the outbreak of the Second World War, Hitler announced his intention of invading Britain in a matter of months. The previous month, the War Office had established the Directorate of Fortifications and Works, otherwise known as FW3, as part of its counterinvasion strategy. Most of the Directorate’s efforts focused on southern Britain as it was closest to the Channel and German-occupied Europe. Although Northern Ireland was far removed from the theatre of war, it was not immune to enemy action and the threat of an airborne invasion precipitated the formation of the Ulster Home Guard in 1940. The Lower Bann is a formidable barrier to land movement across the northern half of the province, as well as being a convenient conduit for any water-based attack. Given its strategic importance, precautions were therefore taken at a local level to repel, or at least hinder, any German invasion, in the form of pillboxes and prepared demolition chambers; other military installations included airfields and camps (fig 9.1). Mullaghmore Airfield Pillbox Demolition chamber Airfield Military building Fig 9.1 World War 2 sites along Lower Bann. Toome Airfield 113 9.1 Pillboxes One of the roles of FW3 was to design ‘hardened field defences’ to counteract an invading force. The pillbox was the commonest such structure and comprised a squat, multi-sided, flat-roofed bunker, generally of reinforced-concrete, with machine-gun embrasures on its visible sides. They were designed so to be put up quickly at strategic locations by the military authorities using local labour and basic materials. By July 1940, the Directorate had come up with seven basic designs of pillboxes – known as types 22 to 28 – although they were often modified slightly to suit local conditions. Whilst they could undoubtedly be overrun in a concerted attack, they were nevertheless perceived to be of value in delaying the enemy’s progress and enabling a counter-attack to be mustered. Seven pillboxes are recorded in the immediate vicinity of the Lower Bann. All but one is paired with another directly across the river, and most could give mutual covering fire. Although type-24 pillboxes, which have hexagonal floor plans, were the commonest design, type-26, which has a square footprint, is more frequently found along the Lower Bann (fig 9.2). Two of the pillboxes are situated at Barmouth, in the vicinity of the moles (4002, 4008); only the one on the East Mole survives, a type-26 now half buried under windblown sand. There were also pillboxes to repel beach landings at Downhill, Castlerock and Portstewart Strands, all outside the study area. At Grange Beg, on the west bank south of Barmouth, is a five-sided pillbox, with long entrance corridor into the chamber. There is also a pair of type-26 boxes in the vicinity of the locks at Portna (4219, 4225), and two type-24s at Portglenone (4250, 4254). Fig 9.2. Second World War pillboxes: Left: East Mole, Barmouth (4002); Middle: Portna Lock (4219); Right: Gortfad, Portglenone (4250). In the event, Hitler did not invade as he failed to win air supremacy at the Battle of Britain over the summer of 1940. He also switched his attention to the Soviet Union, which he invaded in June 1941. Once it was apparent that an invasion of Britain was no longer imminent, FW3 scaled down the building of pillboxes. 9.2 Prepared demolition chambers It was obviously easier for an invading force to cross the Bann by bridge rather than to negotiate the actual river. Prepared demolition chambers were therefore inserted in all five road and three railway bridges which existed at that time in order to hinder any invading force’s progress. Should there have been an invasion, explosives could then be put into the chambers at short notice and the bridge blown up to prevent it being crossed. In the case of the railway bridge at Coleraine, if all else failed, the sluices at the Cutts would have been opened in the hope that the bridge would be washed away. No traces of any of these chambers are now apparent. 114 9.3 Airfields In January 1942, a month after America had declared war on Japan and Germany, thousands of American troops began arriving in Belfast and Derry for dispersal to training camps throughout Northern Ireland in preparation for onward transfer to the theatres of war in Europe and Africa. Airfields were also specially built for use by the Royal Air Force and United States Army Air Force to train aircrews. Two such airfields lie within the study area – at Aghadowey and Toome. Aghadowey Airfield (4149) was officially known as Mullaghmore (after the townland in which it is located) and opened in August 1942 for use by the Royal Air Force as an operational training unit (fig 9.3). In December 1943, it was transferred to the 8th United State Army Air Force (USAAF) and was used by 6th Combat Crew Replacement Centre Group (Station 240) to train American pilots in the art of fighting in a European situation. However, this unit relocated to England in February 1944 and the site was handed back to the RAF in May for use by the Royal Navy Fleet Air Arm for anti-U-boat sorties on the western approaches to the Atlantic. The base closed in May 1945. In the mid-1970s, the defunct runways became the home circuit of the Motor Cycle Road Racing Club of Ireland and a section is still used for stock-car racing. Various buildings and structures associated with this airfield are to be found in its vicinity including hardstands, bomb shelters, a pump house (for extracting water from the Bann), and living quarters (4154, 4155, 4158, 4159, 4163, 4165 and 4166). Fig 9.3 Top left- Water pumping house and tower at Drumneil (4166); Top middle- Mullaghmore Airfield (4149); Top right- Military building at Landagivey (4155); Bottom- Bomb shelters at Drumneil (4163). Toome Airfield (4342) opened in early 1943 and was, like Mullaghmore, also used as an operational training unit by the RAF (fig 9.4). In July 1943 it was handed over to the 8th USAAF for use by 3rd Combat Crew Replacement Centre Group (Station 236). In November 1944, it was handed back to the RAF. In the 1950s, it was used as a satellite airfield by the RAF’s flying training school at Cluntoe, Co Tyrone, and then by the Royal Navy as a gun turret repair depot. It finally closed in 1959 and has since been redeveloped for various industrial enterprises. Traces of the runway can, however, still be found. 115 Fig 9.4 Plan of Toome Airfield, c.1945 (Hughes, 1995). Because of the ‘A’ plan of the runways, aeroplanes could take off and land whatever the wind’s direction. 9.4 Military camps Besides the encampments at the airfields, others were established in the Ballyscullion Estate (4287) and also in the grounds of Brecart Lodge near Toomebridge (4304). Several utilitarian brick buildings still survive at the latter, overlooking the river (fig 9.5). Fig 9.5 Second World War building at Brecart Lodge. 116 10. RECREATIONAL USES The Lower Bann has been the focus of recreational activities since the 1800s, if not before. This is reflected in the purpose-built boat houses in the grounds of many of the larger houses along its banks, none of which now survive with the notable exception of the late 1800s one at Glandore, just above Movanagher Weir (fig 10.1). Today, the main river-based activities are cruising, yachting, rowing, canoeing and water skiing, all of which are enjoyed by an ever-growing number of enthusiasts. Fig 10.1 Glandore boat house (4201). Above: Early 1900s activity in sail-assisted rowing boats at Glandore (Kilrea Local History Group, 1984). Left: The boat house today. 10.1 Cruising Boating as a recreational activity enjoyed by all classes of society dates back to the 1960s with the increase in people’s leisure time and disposable income. The recognition of the waterway as a recreational resource is reflected in the formation of the River Bann & Lough Neagh Association in 1964 to fight the proposed closure of the Lower Bann Navigation. The association was successful in its campaign and is still active; since 2000 it has also been affiliated to the Inland Waterways Association of Ireland. In 1965, Jack Rainey, trading as Rainey Enterprises Ltd, brought over three tourist cruisers from Scotland - the Maid of Coleraine, Maid of Bann, and Maid of Antrim which he stationed at Coleraine, Kilrea and Antrim respectively (fig 10.2). However, because of the lack of tourist infrastructure along the river, his venture quickly proved to be untenable and all operations ceased in 1966. Fig 10.2 Maid of Bann at Portglenone Quay (NMNI: BELUM.Yt599) 117 Pleasure cruising was revived in 1986 by Robert Anderson, a former Coleraine Harbour pilot, who established Bann Cruises and operated the Cygnet, an ex-passenger liner tender, out of Coleraine until 1992. Mr Anderson recommenced operations in 2006, this time trading as River Bann Cruises and using the waterbus Lady Sandel, formerly the Maid of Bann (fig 10.3). In 2011, an inspection of the vessel’s steel hull showed it to be too thin to carry its full complement of 60 passengers. Its downgrading to a maximum of 12 passengers was not financially viable and it has since been withdrawn from service and sold. Fig 10.3 The Lady Sandel at Camus, 2006 (Aubrey Dale). The boom years of the 1990s and early 2000s saw a quantum leap in the popularity of boating and water sports in general. During this period, a number of users’ guides to the Lower Bann Navigation were produced by various organisations (fig 10.4). The first was Michael Savage’s River Bann & Lough Neagh Pilot, published by the River Bann & Lough Neagh Association in 2003; it was updated and reprinted in 2009. The Lower Bann Advisory Committee, an umbrella organisation founded in 1994 by statutory and non-statutory groups with an interest in the river, published its Lower Bann River Users’ Guide in 2008. In the same year, Waterways Ireland, noted in section 3.7 as being in charge of the Lower Bann Navigation since 1999, produced its Guide to the Lower Bann: Navigation and Recreation Information. Fig 10.4 Publications on the Lower Bann. The increasing use of the waterway is also reflected in the many public and private marinas, moorings and slipways along the entire length of the river. Of the 124 sites where jetties/pontoons, piers/quays and slipways have been identified (fig 10.5), no fewer than 105 (85%) were built for recreational purposes, of which 71 were still in use at the time of this survey. Marinas There are seven marinas along the Lower Bann, of which three are operated by local authorities, one belongs to Coleraine Harbour Commissioners, and three are privately owned. All provide on-river berthing, hardstands for over-wintering, slipways; some also have lift-out cranes, utility blocks and boat repair facilities (fig 10.6). 118 Fig 10.5 Boating facilities on the Lower Bann. Seaton’s Marina (4029), near the Barmouth, originated as a private mooring in the early 1960s and gradually transformed itself into a marina to cater for the demand from the cruising and yachting fraternity for berthing facilities at this end of the river. Just upstream, at Cranagh, a private marina opened in 2007 on the site of an early 19th century quay. (4031). Community Rescue Service rigid inflatables are stationed here, as is the Fisheries Conservation Board's Dun na Salar. Coleraine Borough Council was the first local authority on the river to provide public berthing facilities with the opening of a marina near its headquarters in 1967 (4040). It was upgraded to its present form in 2005 with financial assistance from the European Union under its Small Harbours Improvement Scheme. In 2011, Coleraine Harbour Commissioners began redeveloping part of their harbour with the construction of pontoons in front of the defunct Potato Quay (4053). This particular marina has a unique selling point in that vessels can be lifted out and overwintered under cover in one of the adjacent former harbour warehouses. Carrickcraft, a commercial boat-hire company with bases throughout the Irish waterway network, 119 Fig 10.6 Marinas on the Lower Bann. Top, left to right: Seaton’s Marina, Cranagh Marina, Coleraine Marina, Coleraine Town Marina (under construction). Bottom, left to right: Loughan Marina, Drumaheglis Marina, Portglenone Marina. intends to establish operations here in 2012, making it the only location on the Lower Bann where the general public will be able to hire cruisers.32 Loughan Marina, just upstream from Loughan Island, is also home to the Ski Supreme Water Ski School and also offers self-catering chalet accommodation for holiday makers (4125). Drumaheglis Marina, near Balnamore, was opened in 1990 by Ballymoney Borough Council and originally comprised a camping and caravan park, jetty and pontoon (4138). A new slipway and additional pontoons were added in 2002 thanks to funding from the Department of Agriculture & Rural Development. Portglenone Marina is another local authority development, this time by Ballymena Borough Council in 1998 (4257). It was funded by the European Union under its Special Support Programme for Peace and Reconciliation Water-Based Tourism Measure. Upstream from Portglenone, there are no marinas although one has been proposed for Toome by the local development ground (TIDAL). There are, however, berthing facilities convenient to the south end of the Lower Bann at Antrim Borough Council’s Six Mile Water Caravan Park near Antrim, and at Cookstown District Council’s Ballyronan Marina on the western shore of Lough Neagh. Moorings Including marinas, no fewer than 109 sites have been recorded where there are jetties, pontoons, quays or piers. Of these, 94 were erected specifically for recreational use, of which 56 are still in use. Of the latter, 26 are public facilities open to everyone and the rest are private. Waterways Ireland owns 17 of the public moorings, seven belong to local authorities, and two are operated by the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners. All five of the Waterways Ireland locks now have temporary mooring pontoons at their up- and downstream ends for the convenience of lock users awaiting passage. Such structures have the advantage over the earlier fixed type of mooring in that they can move up and down with the level of the river and are therefore less prone to being submerged and covered with flotsam (fig 10.7). 32 This facility was indeed established, but has since been relocated to Drumaheglis Marina. 120 Fig 10.7 Pontoon and access ramp at upstream end of Toome Lock (4333). Waterways Ireland also maintains pontoons at Mount Sandel (4084), Camus (4126), Vow (4188), Movanagher Forest (4208), Portneal (4212), Hutchinson’s Quay (4237), Portglenone Forest (4268), and Toome (4330). All date from the 2000s and, except for Movanagher Forest and Portneal (which are new developments), are replacements of previous structures. Three local authorities also operate moorings in addition to ones at their public marinas. Coleraine Borough Council opened a pontoon at Christie Park, Coleraine in 2003 (4072). Magherafelt District Council has, since 2005, a similar facility at Newferry West (4280), directly opposite Ballymena Borough Council’s one at Newferry East (4282). The latter also maintains the mid-19th century quay at Portglenone (4258), just upstream from the town marina. The most recent pontoon at the time of writing was that erected in 2011 by Coleraine Harbour Commissioners just downstream from the town bridge opposite its new marina (4061). Slipways Of the 42 sites where slipways are recorded, 37 were built specifically for recreational purposes, of which 28 are still in use. Ten of those currently in service are accessible to the public (fig 10.8). There is a slipway at each of the four public marinas, and also at Somerset (4088), Portna (4216), Hutchinson’s Quay (4247), Newferry West (4280), Newferry East (4282) and Toome (4330). Four are owned by Waterways Ireland, one by the Coleraine Harbour Commissioners, and the rest by local authorities. Fig 10.8 Slipway at Newferry West. 121 10.2 Yachting Organised sailing is confined to the tidal stretch of the river which, being more exposed and wider, is more suited to this type of activity than the relatively sheltered, narrow and fast-flowing non-tidal section above the Cutts. The Coleraine Yacht Club is the only organised club on the entire river. It originated in 1962 as the River Bann Boat Club and was initially based in an ex-Navy motor launch at Eric Seaton’s private mooring near the Barmouth (4029). Around 1970, the club relocated upriver to a rented house behind what is now the headquarters of Coleraine Borough Council, and reconstituted itself under its present name (4038). Finally, in the late 1990s, the club moved next door to its present clubhouse just downstream from the marina (fig 10.9). Fig 10.9 Coleraine Yacht Club (4039). 10.3 Rowing Rowing is the oldest organised recreational activity on the Bann, and the Bann Rowing Club is also Coleraine’s oldest amateur sports club. It was established as the Coleraine Rowing Club in 1842 and was based at a hostelry in Abbey Street. It changed to its present name in 1863 and relocated to its present site on the east bank just upstream from Coleraine Bridge the following year. The present club house opened in 1900 and is the third boat house on the site (fig 10.10). Coleraine Borough Council took over the premises in the 1980s, refurbished the clubhouse and leased it back to the rowing club. An exceptional number of world-class national, international, and Olympic rowers have come through the club’s ranks in recent years. Fig 10.10 Bann Rowing Club (4067). Coleraine Academical Institution has been involved in schools’ rowing since the 1920s and was initially based at the Bann Rowing Club. In 1968, they relocated to a purpose-built boat house in the grounds of their playing fields, just upstream from the railway bridge (fig 10.11). Fig 10.11 Coleraine Inst’s premises (4047). 122 The most recent club is based at the University of Ulster’s Watersports Centre which opened in the early 1980s on the east bank close to the newly-established university (fig 10.12). Until its recent demise, the university’s sailing club was also based here. Fig 10.12 University Watersports Centre (4036). All the above sites are characterised by wide flight of steps up the bank from which the rowing eights can be launched. 10.4 Canoeing The Canoe Association of Northern Ireland has recently devised a canoe trail along the Lower Bann between Lough Neagh and Ballywoolen, just short of the Barmouth (fig 10.13). To facilitate the launching and landing of canoes, low platforms have been specially added to the ends of all the publicly-owned pontoons. A purpose-built flight of canoe steps was also built in the late 1900s by Rivers Agency at Bracknamuckley Wood, north of Portgleneone (4248). Fig 10.13 Canoe trail brochure (www.activitybrochuresni.com). 10.5 Water skiing Organised water skiing on the Lower Bann was instigated in the early 1960s by the Newferry Water Ski Club at purpose-built premises at Newferry East. The present club house is the third on this site and dates from c.1999 (fig 10.14). New pontoons were added in 2008 to augment the existing timber jetties. Fig 10.14 Newferry Water Ski Club (4281). 123 There are four designated zones for water skiing on the river – one in the tidal reach, and three upriver from the Cutts (fig 10.15). The total length available is 12.6km, representing just over one-fifth of the river, with the zone between Glenone Forest and Newferry, at the south end of the river, being the longest at just under 5km. Whilst skiers are free to use any public jetty within these zones, a purpose-built pontoon, only accessible from the river, was also constructed by Waterways Ireland in the early 2000s at Aughnahoy, at the north end of the Glenone – Newferry run (4269). Jet skiing is confined to a 0.5km section between Newferry and Lough Beg. Organised water skiing is carried on by the Lower Bann Watersports Club from its base at Drumaheglis Marina (4138). Private tuition is also available from the Ski Supreme Water Ski School at Loughan Marina (4125), and from the Edge Watersports Activity Centre at Drumaheglis. Seaton’s Marina – Coleraine Marina (1.2km) Loughan Island Drumaheglis (4.3km) Gortgole (2.3km) Glenone Forest Newferry (4.8km) Newferry jet skiing (0.5km) 124 Fig 10.15 Water and jet ski zones on Lower Bann (WI Guide to Lower Bann, 2008). 11. SITES OF HERITAGE SIGNIFICANCE 11.1 Heritage evaluation The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage (NIAH) uses a wide range of criteria to assess a site’s heritage significance; seven are of particular relevance to sites along the Lower Bann:33 Archaeological interest derives from the contribution a site might make to our understanding of the past, particularly prior to the modern era. Architectural interest can arise from such factors as quality of design, style, massing, scale, composition, materials and also because it makes a positive contribution to its landscape setting. Artistic interest may derive from the fact that it is a particularly good example of craftsmanship, design or decoration. Cultural interest relates to the perceived, but often intangible, value placed upon that site by past and present societies. Historical interest derives from what a structure or building tells us about the past. It may reflect the style and construction materials of its period or illustrate a phase in the development of that particular site type. Its interest may be enhanced by the presence of alterations, an association with a particular builder, or by the presence of a plaque bearing the name and/or date of its builder. Social interest may derive from the role a site played in the life of the local community with which it was associated. Technical interest may stem from innovatory structural design or the presence of plant and machinery. It should be noted that it is actually the Northern Ireland Environment Agency (NIEA) which is responsible for the statutory protection of sites of special heritage merit along the Lower Bann. However, as the criteria used by the NIEA’s Historic Buildings Unit to evaluate sites are similar to those used by the NIAH, and because Waterways Ireland has used the NIAH criteria for all its other built heritage surveys, they have also been applied to sites on the Lower Bann. 11.2 Heritage rating Using the above criteria, each site was rated according to one of four levels of heritage significance: Negligible: such sites make little or no contribution to the architectural, engineering or industrial heritage of the Lower Bann. Low: such sites make some contribution to the architectural, engineering or industrial heritage of the Lower Bann, but only in a local context. Medium: such sites make a moderate contribution to the architectural, engineering or industrial heritage of the Lower Bann and are generally of high local interest. High: sites at this level make a substantial contribution to the architectural, engineering or industrial heritage of the Lower Bann and are of regional or even national significance. Other factors may also have a bearing on a site’s rating, such as how much original fabric survives, the degree to which it has been degraded through unsympathetic past 33 National Inventory of Architectural Heritage (2011), Architectural Heritage Protection: Guidelines for Planning Authorities, pp 24-30 (Dublin). 125 alterations, and the condition of its surviving remains. The merit of a site will obviously be diminished the more incomplete, the more altered, and the more ruinous it is. Note that for the purposes of this survey, the 36 sites which only contain material of pre1700 date have not been rated (they are discussed in greater length in chapter 2). As they are already included in the NIEA’s Sites & Monuments Record, due cognisance will be taken of them by the Planning Service should there be any development proposals which impact upon them or their immediate environs. 11.3 Sites of heritage merit Of the 343 sites surveyed here, 307 have been rated in terms of their heritage merit. Of these, 94 have been evaluated here as being of low, medium or high heritage significance. Low heritage significance Twenty-three sites have been evaluated as being of low significance (fig 11.1 and Appendix 4.1). Fig 11.1 Sites of low heritage significance. 126 Three of these site are directly related to the infrastructure of the Lower Bann Navigation: the cut-in at Moore Lodge (4203), water gauge station at Camus (4124), and a defunct pier on Church Island (fig 11.2). Fig 11.2 Pier remains on Church Island (4290). A further four sites are associated with the Navigation’s original construction or later refurbishment: a small pier at Carnanee used during the construction and refurbishment of the Barmouth moles, quarry at Tamlaght Quarry (4190) from which stone was extracted for the construction of various, weirs and locks, and a mound of material dredged from the river at Loughan Island in the 1930s. A partly submerged dumb barge on the tidal stretch of the river was also associated with this dredging activity (fig 11.3). Fig 11.3 From left to right: Carnanee Jetty (4026); Dredged material on Loughan Island (4119); Dumb barge at Farranlester, on left bank of tidal section near Barmouth (4023). Seven transport-related sites are also of minor heritage interest: the Coastguard and railway stations at Ballywoolen near the Barmouth, line of the Derry Central Railway (4135) and its associated Macfin Bridge (4136), and line of the Cookstown Branch Railway (4324 ), and the rail (4323) and road bridges at Toome (fig 11.4). Fig 11.4 From left to right: Coastguard station, Ballywoolen (4012); Railway station, Ballywoolen (4013); Toome road bridge (4315). Turning to the extractive industries, vestiges of clay extraction survive at Glasgort (4146) and Drumeil (4162) and represent 19th century brick making in these localities. Diatomite processing is also reflected in one of the buildings at Toome Business Park (4308), and fishing by various buildings, now since converted, at the Cranagh (4032) 127 Several mills are also of some heritage interest: the early 19th century corn mill at Castleroe (4097), the chimney of the former flax scutching mill at Fish Loughan (4114), and the vestiges of Moore’s distillery at Drumaheglis (4137). These sites were on tributaries of the Bann, rather than on the river itself. Not even the Commissioners of Public Works were able to exploit the river itself, as manifest in the defunct mill race at the Cutts (4090). The graveyard at the Vow is also of some historical interest (fig 11.5). Fig 11.5 Vow Graveyard (4183). Medium heritage significance There are 35 sites of medium heritage significance in the database (fig 11.6 and Appendix 4.2). Fig 11.6 Sites of medium heritage significance. 128 This total includes eight piers and quays: Riversdale Quay (4049), Potato Quay (4054) and Bannside Wharf (4055) at Coleraine Harbour, the mid-19th century quays built by the Commissioners of Public Works at Kilrea (4210), and the 20th century quay at Toome (fig 11.7). Fig 11.7 Toome Quay (4320). On Lough Beg, the defunct canal and pier at Intake (4288) and defunct pier at Drumraymond (4295) both reflect a time when the water levels were significantly higher than they are today. Carnanee Quarry (4025) from which stone was extracted for the Barmouth moles, and the contractor’s railway which brought the stone from the quarry to Barmouth (4010), and bridge by which the railway crossed the Bann are also of interest in terms of the history of the navigation. Also associated with the Barmouth are the leading lights which facilitated the ships’ passage into the Bann (fig 11.8). Fig 11.8 Left: Leading lights (4004, 4007). Above: Remains of contractor’s bridge (4009). 129 The fishing weir, footbridge and slipway at Portmore, built by the Government in the 1930s, are also of interest. (fig 11.9). Other waterway related buildings include Glandore boat house (4201), and the Bann Rowing Club at Coleraine (4067). Fig 11.9 Top left: General view of self-fishing weir at Portna (4228). Bottom left: Defunct footbridge below weir. Right: Slip giving access to fishing weir. Railways are represented by the Belfast-Derry railway (4022), and the road network by Agivey Bann Bridge (fig 11.10). Fig 11.10. Agivey Bann Bridge (4142). This bridge dates from the 1980s and is the third at this particular location. The Navigation span is at left, but the swing section over it is long gone. 130 One industrial site is of medium heritage interest – a water-powered flax scutching mill at Mill Loughan, now heavily overgrown but which still retains its waterwheel and some gearing (4113). Six pillboxes built during the Second World War are of note, at Barmouth (4002 and 4016), Moneygran, Culmore (4225), Gortfad (4250), and Glenone (fig 11.11). Fig 11.11 Left to right: Pillboxes at Grange Beg near Barmouth (4016), at Moneygran (4219), and at Glenone (4254). There are also a significant number of features associated with Mullaghmore Airfield and military encampment (4154, 4155, 4158, 4159, 4163, 4165, 4166), and the buildings associated with the military camp at Brecart Lodge (4304). Finally, the early 19th century octagonal brick pigeon house in the grounds of Moore Lodge, the Clothworkers Arms Hotel in Coleraine, and St Paul’s Church at Fish Loughan (4122) are also of interest as well (fig 11.12). Fig 11.12 Left: Pigeon house at Moore Lodge (4205). Top right: St Paul’s Church, Fish Loughan (4122); Bottom right: Clothworkers Arms Hotel west end of the Town Bridge, Coleraine (4062). 131 High heritage significance Thirty-six sites are of high heritage merit (fig 11.13 and Appendix 4.3). They include all the locks and various related weirs, flood gates and lateral canals at the Cutts (4091, 4096), Carnroe (4175, 4178, 4179), Movanagher (4191, 4198, 4200), Portna (4220, 4223, 4224, 4229), and Toome (4333, 4334, 4339), and the quay at the Cutts (fig 11.14). Fig 11.13 Sites of high heritage significance. 132 Fig 11.14 Top, left to right: Cutts Quay (4094), Lock 2 at Carnroe (4175), and Lock 3 at Movanagher (4191). Bottom, left to right:, Lock 4 at Portna (4222), and Lock 5 at Toome (4333). The moles and training bank at Barmouth (4000, 4001), the mole and artificial channel at the south end of Lough Beg (4294, 4298), and the mole on Lough Neagh are all of high heritage significance as well (fig 11.15). Fig 11.15. Mole on Lough Neagh (4341). There are also prominent eel fisheries at Portna and Toome (fig 11.16). Fig 11.16 Left: Lower eel weir just below Portna flood gates (4226). Right: Toome eel weir (4313). 133 Turning to industrial sites, the water-powered flax scutching mill at Mill Loughan (4112) and the diatomite works at Newferry (4276), both now ruinous but virtually complete in respect of their machinery, are of high significance. A number of bridges, all of which are still in use, are also of merit: the bascule railway bridge of 1924 over the Bann at Coleraine, and road bridges at Coleraine, Kilrea, and Portglenone (fig 11.17). Fig 11.17. Clockwise from top left: Railway bridge, Coleraine (4044), Coleraine Bridge (4044), Kilrea Bridge (4211), and Portglenone Bridge (4260). The fords at Mountsandel (4083) and Camus (4116) were once important crossing points and are still of high significance owing to the recovery, from time to time, of prehistoric artifacts hereabouts. The ecclesiastical sites at Camus and Church Island on Lough Beg are also of outstanding heritage value (fig 11.18). Not far from Church Island is Ballyscullion Demesne, within which are the ruinous remains of the Bishop’s Folly (4287). Fig 11.18 Church and folly steeple on Church Island (4291). 134 Closer to the present, the extensive remains of the runways at Aghadowey (officially called Mullaghmore) and Toome airfields (4149 and 4342 respectively) are prominent reminders of military activity during the Second World War. 11.4 Heritage sites belonging to Waterways Ireland Of the 37 sites in which Waterways Ireland has a stake, 19 are of heritage significance: one is of low merit, two are of medium interest, and 16 are of high value (fig 11.19 and table 11.1). High Medium Low Fig 11.19 Waterways Ireland owned sites of heritage significance. 135 Site Name Site type Address Significance 4091 Lock 1, Cutts Lock Ballyness, Coleraine High 4094 Cutts Quay Jetty/Pontoon; Pier/Quay Ballyness, Coleraine High 4096 Cutts Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Ballyness, Coleraine High 4175 Lock 2, Carnroe Jetty/Pontoon; Lock Vow, Ballymoney High 4178 Carnroe Canal Canal Vow, Ballymoney High 4179 Carnroe Weir Barrage/Dam/ Sluice/Weir Carranrow, Coleraine/ Vow, Ballymoney High 4191 Lock 3, Movanagher Bridge (road); Jetty/ Pontoon; Lock Artiloman, Ballymoney High 4198 Movanagher Canal Canal Artiloman/Ardnagross, Ballymoney High 4200 Movanagher Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/ Weir Ardnagross, Ballymoney/ Movanagher, Coleraine High 4210 Kilrea Quay Pier/Quay Culmore, Rasharkin Medium 4219 Pillbox Military building/structure Moneygran, Kilrea Medium 4220 Lock 4; Portna Locks Bridge (road); Jetty/ Pontoon; Lock Moneygran, Kilrea High 4223 Portna Dry Dock; Portna Quay Dry dock; Pier/Quay; Water gauge station Moneygran, Kilrea High 4224 Portna Canal Canal Moneygran, Kilrea High 4294 Lough Beg Mole Brecart, Toomebridge High 4298 New Cut Canal Brecart, Toomebridge High 4323 Carlisle Bridge (E end) Bridge (rail) Toome, Toomebridge Low 4333 Lock 5, Toome Jetty/Pontoon; Lock Toome, Toomebridge High 4334 Toome Canal Canal Toome, Toomebridge High Table 11.1 Sites of heritage significance in which Waterways Ireland has a stake. 136 12. CONSERVATION ISSUES The significance of sites of heritage merit can best be maintained through statutory protection as part of the planning process, and also by conservation actions such as ongoing maintenance and repairs, preservation, restoration and adaptive reuse. 12.1 Statutory Protection Sites of heritage merit may be accorded statutory protection against unauthorised works which could negatively impact upon the features which give them special character. In the context of the Lower Bann, the Northern Ireland Environment Agency is responsible for the listing and scheduling of sites of special heritage merit under the Planning (NI) Order 1991 and Historic Monuments & Archaeological Objects (NI) Order 1995 respectively. By and large, the former legislation is applied to buildings and structures which are currently in use or potentially reusable, whereas the latter is generally applied to defunct, ruinous and buried sites which have minimal reuse potential and which are deemed best preserved as they are. Some Scheduled Monuments are of such importance that they are in State Care. Listed Buildings and Scheduled Monuments require special planning consent before any building works work can take place. In all there are 31 sites thus protected within the area under review; 11 contain listed buildings, 18 have scheduled monuments and two have both types (fig 12.1). Scheduled Monument Listed Building Fig 12.1 Protected sites. 137 Most sites which are of archaeological, industrial or military interest but which are not currently protected by listing or scheduling are nevertheless recorded in the NIEA’s Sites & Monuments, Industrial Heritage, and Defence Heritage records respectively. Should a planning application be made which might impinge on such a site or its immediate environs, NIEA would doubtless flag it up with the Planning Service. Listed buildings A total of 13 sites contain listed buildings or structures (table 12.1). These include all but one of the five locks on the Navigation, the multi-arched masonry bridges at Coleraine, Kilrea and Portglenone, the Clothworkers Arms Hotel and Rowing Club in Coleraine, Camus House, St Paul’s Church, and the estate-related structures at Moore Lodge and on Church Island (fig 12.2). Only the four locks are in Waterways Ireland’s ownership. Site no Name/ Type NIEA Listed Building no Grade 4062 Clothworkers Arms Hotel HB03/16/001A B1 4064 Bann Bridge, Coleraine HB 03/18/020 B 4067 Bann/Coleraine Rowing Club HB 03/18/017 B1 4091 Lock 1, Cutts HB 03/14/006 B 4106 Camus House HB 03/03/004 B 4122 St Paul's Church HB 03/06/003 B 4191 Lock 3, Movanagher HB 04/11/009 B 4205 Moore Lodge Pigeon House HB 04/11/004 B 4211 Kilrea Bridge HB 04/11/001 B 4220 Lock 4, Portna HB 08/03/015 B1 4260 Bann Bridge, Portglenone HB 07/06/017 B1 4291 Church Island Steeple HB 08/09/014 B 4333 Lock 5, Toome HB 20/01/007 B Table 12.1 Listed buildings and structures (sites owned by WI in bold). Fig 12.2 Left: Camus House (4106). Right: St Paul’s Church (4122). 138 Scheduled Monuments Twenty sites contain Scheduled Monuments (table 12.2). The Barmouth moles and associated training bank and pillboxes in their vicinity are the only relatively modern sites. The rest are pre-18th century and some go as far back as the Mesolithic period. Those such as Ballycairn Motte and Mount Sandel Fort are clearly visible above ground, but others are now buried, under water (as fords), or comprise flint scatters of prehistoric encampments as, for example, on the sand dunes on both sides of the river at Barmouth (fig 12.3). None of these sites belongs to Waterways Ireland. Three of the sites are not only scheduled but also in the ownership of the State – Mount Sandel Fort, Mill Loughan Motte, and the ecclesiastical monuments on Church Island. Site no Name/ Type Reference number Protection 4000 Barmouth Moles NIEA SMR LDY 002:500; SMR LDY 003:500 Scheduled Monument 4001 Barmouth Training Bank NIEA SMR LDY 002:500 Scheduled Monument 4002 Pillbox NIEA SMR LDY 003:078 Scheduled Monument 4009 Contractor’s railway bridge NIEA SMR LDY 002:501 Scheduled Monument 4016 Pillbox NIEA SMR LDY 002:019 Scheduled Monument 4020 Prehistoric settlement CMR MRL 012:003; MRL 012:017 Scheduled Monument 4030 Ballycairn Motte NIEA SMR LDY 003:008 Scheduled Monument 4083 Sandel Ford CMR MRL 021:003 Scheduled Monument 4086 Mount Sandel Mesolithic settlement NIEA SMR LDY 007:037 Scheduled Monument 4087 Mount Sandel Fort NIEA SMR LDY 007:020 Scheduled Monument in State Care 4106 Camus Cross & Graveyard SMR LDY 007:022 Scheduled Monument 4111 Mill Loughan Motte NIEA SMR LDY 007:024 Scheduled Monument in State Care 4116 Camus/Loughan Ford NIEA SMR LDY 007:100 Scheduled Monument 4118 Mound, Loughan Island NIEA SMR LDY 007:029 Scheduled Monument 4120 Site of castle, Loughan Island NIEA SMR LDY 007:094 Scheduled Monument 4121 Mound, Loughan Island NIEA SMR LDY 007:042 Scheduled Monument 4132 Mound NIEA SMR ANT 016:005 Scheduled Monument 4196 Movanagher Castle NIEA SMR LDY 019:003 Scheduled Monument 4291 Church Island SMR LDY 042:014 Scheduled Monument in State Care 4332 Toome Castle NIEA SMR ANT 042:012 Scheduled Monument Table 12.2 Scheduled Monuments. 139 Fig 12.3 Left: Ballycairn Motte (4030). Right: Movanagher Castle bawn (4196). Scheduled Areas There is usually a buffer zone around a Scheduled Monument which is also included within the protection afforded the monument. For most sites, this zone is usually no more than 10m or so out from its visible remains. However, in the case of the sand dune sites at the Barmouth, and at Movanagher, and Church Island on Lough Beg, their Scheduled Areas cover a much larger area than any visible remains in order to protect any associated buried features and artifacts which could potentially survive as well. In two instances, these Scheduled Areas extend right across, and for a considerable distance along, the Lower Bann (fig 12.4). One zone is at Sandel Ford (4083) and extends for 300m along the river on account of the numerous artifacts of archaeological interest which have been found hereabouts. The other extends for 800m along the river in the vicinity of Camus Ford (4116), another important crossing point in prehistoric and early historic times. The area also takes in the Dales (4110), site of Dromore Castle (4115), and the three monuments on Loughan Island (4118, 4120, 4121) Fig 12.4 Scheduled areas at Sandel Ford (left) and Camus Ford (right). 140 Sites meriting statutory protection As noted in the previous chapter, 36 sites were rated in this project as being of high heritage significance, of which 12 have statutory protection (Appendix 4.3). The remaining 24 unprotected ones are itemised in table 12.3, together with suggestions as to what their most appropriate form of protection might be. It is, of course, recognised that Waterways Ireland can only bring to the NIEA’s attention sites within its a remit and that the decision on what is protected rests with that agency. Moreover, given that some of the sites, particular the waterway-related ones, are still in everyday use for their original purposes, it is debatable whether statutory protection would actually be necessary in these instances. Site no Name Site type Proposed protection Waterways Ireland sites 4094 Cutts Quay Pier/Quay Listing 4096 Cutts Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Scheduling 4175 Lock 2, Carnroe Jetty/Pontoon; Lock Listing 4178 Carnroe Canal Canal Scheduling 4179 Carnroe Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Scheduling 4198 Movanagher Canal Canal Scheduling 4200 Movanagher Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Scheduling 4223 Portna Dry Dock Dry dock Scheduling 4224 Portna Canal Canal Scheduling 4294 Lough Beg Mole Mole Scheduling 4298 New Cut, Lough Beg Canal Scheduling 4334 Toome Canal Canal Scheduling Rivers Agency 4096 Cutts Flood Gates Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Scheduling 4229 Portna Flood Gates Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Scheduling 4339 Toome Flood Gates & Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Scheduling 4341 Lough Neagh Mole Mole Scheduling Other owners 4044 Bann Railway Bridge (2) Bridge (rail) Listing 4112 Flax mill Industrial building/structure Listing 4149 Aghadowey Airfield Military building/structure Listing and/or Scheduling 4226 Kilrea/ Portna Eel Fishery Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Listing and Scheduling 4276 Newferry Diatomite Works Industrial building/structure Listing 4287 Ballyscullion Palace Estate building/structure Scheduling 4313 Toome Eel Fishery Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Listing and/or Scheduling 4342 Toome Airfield Military building/structure Listing and Scheduling Table 12.3 Unprotected sites of high heritage significance. 141 Twelve of these sites fall within the remit of Waterways Ireland. It is somewhat surprising that Carnroe Lock is not listed given that the ones at the Cutts, Movanagher, Portna and Toome are. The quay at the Cutts might also merit listing given its close association with the adjacent lock and weir. The lateral canals at Carnroe, Movanagher, Portna, and Toome, together with the surviving original weirs at the Cutts, Carnroe, Movanagher, are also intrinsic elements of the Navigation and would merit scheduling. The mole and line of the New Cut at the south end of Lough Beg are both impressive examples of civil engineering and would also be merit scheduling. The dry dock at Portna is also an unusual feature (being on the canal rather than in a cut-in), and may also merit scheduling. Four features which are the responsibility of Rivers Agency would merit scheduling as well – the 1930s flood gates at the Cutts and Portna, gates and weir at Toome, and the mole at the north-west end of Lough Neagh. Also on the river, but in separate ownership is the bascule railway bridge at Coleraine, and the eel fisheries at Portna and Toome. The bridge merits listing, whilst the fisheries may merit listing or scheduling. Listing should also be considered for the extensive diatomite works at Newferry and flax mill at Mill Loughan on account of their plant and machinery contents. Listing and scheduling may also be appropriate for the airfields and their related features at Aghadowey and Toome, and scheduling for the remnants of the Bishop’s Palace at Ballyscullion. 12.2 Conservation Actions Statutory protection is not an end in itself, but merely a planning tool for the future management of sites of special heritage significance. Sustaining them into the future requires affirmative action, whether in preserving them in their existing state, continuing to use them, or finding a new use for them. The bottom line is that repairs and maintenance are required. Five levels of potential action have been identified by Waterways Ireland for sites of post-1700 date: No action: the site is stable in its present state and unlikely to undergo appreciable deterioration in the foreseeable future. This action is also applicable to sites where there are no upstanding remains. Minimal aesthetic work, e.g. ivy clearance. Minor repairs, e.g. to the roofs/doors/windows of buildings, and the consolidation of sections of side walls/decks of piers and slipways. Significant repairs: as above, but on a larger scale. Underpinning may also be necessary. Needs immediate intervention. This only applies where a building or structure is in imminent danger of collapse or poses a threat to the public. There are eight sites which might benefit from conservation action (table 12.4). The only extensive repairs potentially required are those to the mole on Lough Neagh to stop it disappearing. However, the magnitude of what would be required may not be justifiable in terms of River Agency’s operational requirements. Four sites belonging to Waterways Ireland require minor repairs. Priority should be given to the dry dock at Portna which is of high heritage significance and where the 142 concrete wall heads require some attention. Unfortunately the removal of the tree from the pillbox at Culmore is outside WI’s remit. The removal of weeds at Toome Quay and at Carlisle Bridge is also recommended to prevent shrubs and trees eventually taking hold; however, only the bridge is within WI’s remit. Site no Name Action Owner 4341 Lough Neagh Breakwater Significant repairs Rivers Agency 4175 Lock 2, Carnroe Minor repairs to a pontoon float WI 4221 Portna Lock House (2) Minor repairs to doors and winds WI 4223 Portna Dry Dock Minor repairs to concrete wall heads WI 4225 Pillbox, Culmore Minor repairs – tree removal Private 4248 Bracknamuckley Canoe Steps Minor repairs to steps WI 4320 Toome Quay (2) Minimal aesthetic work – weed removal Roads Service 4323 Carlisle Bridge (E end) Minimal aesthetic work – weed removal WI Table 12.4 Proposed conservation actions. 143 144 13. CONCLUSIONS This survey of the built heritage of the Lower Bann has recorded a total of 343 sites, of which 224 (65%) are directly related to the waterway. Of the overall total, 232 survive in some form or other, and 37 are owned by Waterways Ireland. Jetties and pontoons are the commonest type of site, with 90 examples. Virtually the entire infrastructure of the Lower Bann Navigation, as constructed by the Commissioners of Public Works in the mid-1800s, survives. Although the railways took most of the envisaged traffic away from the waterway soon after it was completed, it is still in use for recreational purposes under the direction of Waterways Ireland. Most waterborne trade actually took place along the tidal stretch of the river, between Coleraine and the Atlantic Ocean. Considerable effort has been expended since the early 19th century in making this section of river navigable to increasingly large ships serving the port of Coleraine. This is particularly apparent in the two concrete moles at the Barmouth which were constructed in the 1870s and substantially rebuilt in the 1930s, and in the continual extension of the quays at Coleraine. The Lower Bann is remarkable for the thousands of archaeological artifacts which have been found along it, particularly worked flint implements of Mesolithic date. The prevalence of finds from this period underlies the river’s importance to people since they first set foot in Ireland after the last Ice Age. Of particular significance are the salmon and eels which were heavily exploited down through the ages, attracting both the 13th century Anglo-Normans and 16th century Planters. These resources continue to be exploited to this day, albeit on a reduced scale, under the auspices of the Irish Society. Industrial-scale activity along the Lower Bann over the past 250 years is also evident in the extractive industries such as stone quarries, brick, diatomite and peat works. Manufacturing industries such as grain milling and textile production are also represented, even within the relatively narrow spatial corridor along which this survey was confined. More recent activity has also been noted, such as the various Second World War military encampments, airfields and pillbox defences, and post-War industrial developments in Coleraine. Trade and commerce, such as it was, have long disappeared from the Lower Bann, and have been replaced with recreational activities such as cruising, canoeing, rowing and water skiing. There now exists a substantial infrastructure to cater for these new users, in the form of marinas, jetties, pontoons, and slipways. Waterways Ireland is the body responsible for many of these facilities, but all the local authorities as well as private individuals are also involved in their operation. Many of the thematic historical developments described in this report are manifest in the stock of existing buildings and structures along the river. Fortunately most of these sites of heritage interest are robust enough to have survived as originally built. The threat to their significance comes not from natural agencies, but from their possible future alteration or redevelopment. It is for this reason that some sites have been the subject of statutory protection in an endeavour to retain their special character. However, as has been shown here, other sites of arguably equal heritage merit still await recognition in this respect. Such protection, and proactive conservation where necessary, is worthwhile not only because of these sites’ intrinsic value in telling us about our past, but also as a resource for tourism and education. Hopefully, this overview has shown the potential of the Lower Bann is this regard, but the full realisation of this potential depends not only on Water145 ways Ireland, but also on the various other stakeholders in the river as well: Rivers Agency, Coleraine Harbour Commissioners, and the four local authorities which impinge upon it – Coleraine, Ballymoney, Ballymena, and Magherafelt councils. There are also the fishing interests, as represented by the Honourable the Irish Society and the Lough Neagh Fishermen's Co-operative Society Ltd. As with many other navigable waterways in Ireland, there is potential for conflict between the needs of drainage, navigation and fishing. In 1994, the Lower Bann Advisory Committee was formed to bring together all the statutory and non-statutory bodies with an interest in the river. Until its cessation in 2010, due to a withdrawal of its funding, it provided advice on navigation, drainage, the management of the built and natural heritage, and recreation. The Lough Neagh Partnership Ltd, which also represents stakeholders’ interests, was formed in 2003 to initiate various projects funded under the Department of Agriculture and Rural Development’s Programme for Building Sustainable Prosperity. Although its focus is primarily on the lough itself, its remit also extends downriver to Lough Beg and Newferry. The partnership is now promoting the various built, natural, and cultural heritage projects which were funded under this scheme. In conclusion, although the Lower Bann Navigation came at the tail end of the 100-year development of Ireland’s inland waterways for trade and commerce, it has found a new lease of life as a provider of recreational facilities, the enjoyable pursuit of which can only be enhanced through a knowledge of the built heritage along it. 146 APPENDIX 1: BIBLIOGRAPHY General Anderson R. (2005a), Fading Memories of Coleraine, Portrush and Portstewart (Coleraine: Impact Printing). Anderson R. (2008a), More Fading Memories of Coleraine, Portrush and Portstewart (Coleraine: Impact Printing). Anon. Parliamentary Gazetteer of Ireland, 1844-45 (Dublin, 1846). Bassett G.H. (1888), The Book of Antrim (reprinted 1989 as Bassett’s County Antrim – One Hundred Years Ago. Belfast: Friar’s Bush Press). Bleakly J. 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Marshall J.D.C. (1987), Forgotten Places of the North Coast (Ballymoney: Clegnagh Publishing). McNeary R. (2010), An Overview of the Archaeology of the Lower Bann’s Ancient Fording Places (Coleraine: Centre for Maritime Archaeology. Unpublished MS). McNeary R. (2010), Archaeological Objects from the Lower Bann in the Ulster Museum (Coleraine: Centre for Maritime Archaeology. Unpublished MS). McNeill T.E. (1975), 'Ulster mottes: a checklist', in Ulster Journal of Archaeology, vol.38, pp 49-56. McNeill T.E. (1983), ‘The stone castles of northern County Antrim’, in Ulster Journal of Archaeology, vol.46, pp 101-128. Mullin Rev T.H. (1976), Coleraine in Bygone Centuries (Belfast: Century Services). Mullin Rev T.H. (1977), Coleraine in Georgian Times (Belfast: Century Services). Mullin Rev T.H. (1979), Coleraine in Modern Times (Belfast: Century Services). Mullin T.H. (1994), ‘Bannfield over four centuries’ in Bann Disc, vol.1, pp 10-14. O’Hagan J. (1845), Map of Coleraine. Raven T. (1622), Map of Coleraine. Robinson P. (1983), ‘Some late survivals of box-framed ‘Plantation’ houses in Coleraine, County Londonderry’, in Ulster Journal of Archaeology, vol.46, pp 129-136. Silex (1930), Prehistory of the Bann (Belfast). Steward, A. (1758), Map of Coleraine. Woodman P., Finlay, N. & Anderson E. (2006), The Archaeology of a Collection: The Keiller-Knowles Collection of the National Museum of Ireland (Dublin: Wordwell). Woodman P.C. (1978), The Mesolithic in Ireland. British Archaeological Reports: British Series, no.58 (Oxford: British Archaeological Reports). Appendix 1 4 Chapters 3 and 4: Drainage and navigation Allport Commission (1887), First Report of the Royal Commission on Irish Public Works. House of Commons Command Paper C 5038. Anderson R. (1976), The Port of Coleraine (Coleraine: Impact Amergin). Anderson R. (1994), ‘The Port of Coleraine’ in Bann Disc, vol.1, pp 35-38. Anderson R. (1996), ‘Co Londonderry shipwrecks’ in Bann Disc, vol.3, pp 44-47. Anderson R. (2000), A Century of Ships – 100 Years of Shipping on the River Bann (Coleraine: Impact Printing). Anderson R. (2004a), ‘The Bann and Thorn ships of S.W. Coe’, in Bann Disc, vol.10, pp 26-31. Anderson R. (2004b), ‘Kitty of Coleraine- a forgotten steamship?, in Bann Disc, vol.10, pp 54-55. Anderson R. (2005b), ‘The Scotch boats: passenger ship services from Portrush and Coleraine’, in Bann Disc, vol.11, pp 44-47. Anderson R. (2008b), ‘Building the Barmouth’, in Bann Disc, vol.14, pp 89-96. Anderson R. (2010), ‘River Bann pilots: a short history’, in Bann Disc, vol.16, pp 1-6. Anon. ‘Petition to House of Lords by concerned locals against the Bill relating to formation of Coleraine Harbour Commissioners’, in Proceedings of House of Lords, 1878-79 session. Copy in Public Record Office Northern Ireland (FIN/9/5/4). Anon. (1932), ‘Drainage of the River Bann and Lough Neagh, Ireland’, in Civil Engineering, vol. 27 (March 1932), pp 39-42. Barton J. (1859). Report on Lower Bann for Trustees Lower Bann Navigation (Ballymoney: Lithgow). Copy in Public Record Office Northern Ireland (FIN/9/1/54). Binnie Sir A.R. (1906), Bann and Lough Neagh Drainage. House of Commons Command Paper 2855 (Dublin: HMSO). Coleraine Harbour Commissioners. Minute Books 1879-1956 (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: HAR/6/1/1-10). Coleraine Harbour Commissioners. Minute Books June 1956 – May 1963, June 1963 – July 1969, and Aug 1969 – Sept 1974 (Coleraine: Harbour Office). Coleraine Harbour Commissioners. Miscellaneous reports on works at Barmouth and Coleraine (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: HAR/6/7/1A-B, HAR/6/7/3A-C, HAR/6/7/4A-B. HAR/6/9/2/2, HAR/6/11/1, HAR/6/13/1, HAR/6/13//3, and HAR/6/15/2/1). Commissioners of Public Works, Ireland. Annual Reports for Lough Neagh Drainage District, 1848-61. See Appendix 3.2 for full details. Commissioners of Public Works, Ireland (1858), Lough Neagh District - Plans of Lower Bann Navigation (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: FIN/9/2/4). Coode Sir J. (1878), River Bann Navigation (Coleraine). Copy in Public Record Office Northern Ireland (FIN/9/1/7). Crofts F.W. (1930), Bann and Lough Neagh Drainage: Report on Inquiry into the Objections lodged against the Draft Scheme, 2 May 1930 (Belfast: HMSO). Development Commission (1925), Report on the request of Coleraine Harbour Commissioners for state assistance towards improvements at the mouth of the River Bann (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: CAB/9/C/4/9). Dick F.J. (1904), ‘Report on the drainage of Lough Neagh and the Lower Bann’, in Proceedings House of Commons, vol.79 (1904), pp 21-34. Drainage Advisory Committee (1927), Interim Report on the Drainage of Lough Neagh and the River Bann. Command Papers (Northern Ireland) 72 (Belfast: HMSO). Appendix 1 5 Drainage Advisory Committee (1928), Final Report on the Drainage of Lough Neagh and the Bann River. Command Papers (Northern Ireland) 90 (Belfast: HMSO). Forsyth W. (1850), ‘Improvement of the Port of Coleraine in the County of Londonderry’, in Transactions of the Institution of Civil Engineers of Ireland, vol.4 (1849-50), pp 33-48. Gilbert T.S. (1925), Minutes of Evidence taken before the Commission on the Natural and Industrial Resources of Northern Ireland, 8 April 1925 (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: COM/24/1/7). Given M. (1925), Minutes of Evidence taken before the Commission on the Natural and Industrial Resources of Northern Ireland, 13 April 1925 (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: COM/24/1/7). House of Commons Select Committee on Bann Drainage Bill (1889). Report, proceedings, minutes of evidence and memorandum, in Proceedings House Commons, vol.1 (1889). McCutcheon W.A. (1965), The Canals of the North of Ireland, pp 120-140 (Dawlish: David & Charles). MacMahon J. (1845), Report to the Commissioners on the Drainage of the Flooded Lands and the Improvement of the Navigations in the Lough Neagh District (Dublin: Thom). Also contains a longitudinal survey of the Lower Bann dated 1844. Manning R. (1884), ‘Lower Bann River drainage and navigation: Report by Robert Manning, Chief Engineer to the Board of Works in Ireland on the flooding of lands in the Lough Neagh District’, in House of Commons Sessional Papers (1884), vol.62, pp 331341. Ministry of Finance (1930). Drainage Act (NI) 1929 - Final Scheme Annexe 1 (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: FIN/9/2/119A). Monck Commission (1882). Royal Commission respecting the System of Navigation which connects Coleraine, Belfast and Limerick (HMSO: 1882). Nimmo A. (1828), ‘Report respecting the improvement of the Newry Navigation’. Appendix B of Second Report of the Tidal Commissioners (HMSO, 1846). Rennie J. (1803), To the Merchants and Traders of Coleraine and others interested in the improvement of the Harbour of Portrush (London). Copy in Public Record Office Northern Ireland (T/1954/1). Returns re Lower Bann Navigation 1863, in Proceedings House of Commons, vol.63 (1863), p.871. Returns re Lower Bann Navigation 1878, in Proceedings House of Commons, vol.61 (1878), pp 269-71. Roach J. (1781), Proposal for embankment at mouth of River Bann, dated 20 Nov 1781. Copy in Public Record Office Northern Ireland (T/2798/2/75). Shepherd P.E. (1926), Proposals for Measures to Alleviate the Flooding caused by Lough Neagh and the Bann River. Command Papers (Northern Ireland) 63 (Belfast: HMSO). Shepherd P.E. (1934), Chairman’s address to Belfast & District Association of the Institution of Civil Engineers, 29 Jan 1934 (Belfast: Institution Civil Engineers). Smith C. (1918), Handwritten notes on the history of the Bann Drainage Scheme for Board of Works (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: FIN/9/1/32). Townshend T, (1813), ‘Observations respecting the Navigation of the River Bann’ in Appendix 10 of Third Report of the Commissioners Appointed to Enquire into the Nature and Extent of the Several Bogs in Ireland, pp 162-166 (Proceedings House of Commons, 1813-14). Appendix 1 6 Various authors. Letters and printed matter on the Bann Navigation Scheme, 1844-93 (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: D266/260/295). Various authors. Progress reports on drainage scheme, 1929-43 (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: HAR/6/15/1/1-3). Chapter 5: Fishing Addison M (1945), The Lough Neagh Shore Area: its Physical Evolution and Human Utilization. Unpublished M.Sc. thesis, Queen’s University, Belfast. Department of Culture, Arts & Leisure (2010), Eel Management Plan - Neagh/ Bann River Basin District: the Scientific Basis for the Viability of Current Management of Eel in the Lough Neagh and Lower Bann River Basin (Belfast). Downloadable at http://archive.defra.gov.uk/foodfarm/fisheries/documents/fisheries/emp/neagh-v2.pdf. Evans H. (1970), A Historical Account of the Bann Fisheries. Unpublished undergraduate thesis, Trinity College, Dubin. McKay B. (1994), ‘The role of the commercial fisherman in fisheries management’, in Bann Disc, vol.1, pp 15-21. Mitchel N.C. (1949), The Fisheries of the Lough Neagh Basin. Unpublished M.A. thesis, Queen’s University, Belfast. Chapter 6: Extractive industries Addison M. (1945), The Lough Neagh Shore Area: its Physical Evolution and Human Utilization. Unpublished M.Sc. thesis, Queen’s University, Belfast. Hughes J. & Barton D. (2004), Quiet Places of the Lower Bann Valley (Dunmurry). Jackson J.W. (1909), ‘On the diatomaceous deposit of the Lower Bann Valley, counties Antrim and Derry, and prehistoric Implements found therein’, in Memoirs and Proceedings of the Manchester Literary & Philosophical Society, vol.53 (10). Knowles W.J. (1880), ‘Flint implements from the valley of the Bann’, in Journal of the Anthropological Institute. Ministry of Finance (1930s). Files relating to lands along the Lower Bann scheduled for dumping dredged spoil. Public Record Office Northern Ireland: AG/5/1/35. Savage M. (2004), ‘Glaciers and Guinness’, in Newsletter of the Inland Waterways Association of Ireland, vol.31(2). Smith A. (1985), Review of the Diatomite Resources of the River Bann –Toomebridge Area of Northern Ireland. Open file report 64, Geological Survey of Northern Ireland. Chapter 7: Manufacturing and power generation Anon. (1923), ‘The water power resources of Ireland and the effect of their development on industry’. Supplement to Manchester Guardian Commercial, 26 July 1923. Commission on Natural and Industrial Resources (1926), Report on the Power Resources of Northern Ireland. Command Papers (Northern Ireland) 59 (Belfast: HMSO). Gribbon H.D. 1969. The History of Water Power in Ulster (Newton Abbot: David & Charles). McCutcheon W.A. (1980), The Industrial Archaeology of Northern Ireland (Belfast: HMSO). Appendix 1 7 Ministry of Labour (1923), Memorandum on the Power Resources of Northern Ireland with Special Reference to Existing Sources and Present Applications. (Belfast: Ministry of Labour). Smith C. (1919), Notes complied for Board of Works on Lower Bann power scheme (Public Record Office Northern Ireland: FIN/9/1/33). Chapter 8: Railways Currie J.R.L. (1954), ‘The Londonderry and Coleraine Railway’ in Journal of the Irish Railway Record Society, vol.3, pp 217-231. Currie J.R.L. (1968), ‘Coleraine as a railway centre’ in Journal of the Irish Railway Record Society, vol.8, pp 203-218. Johnson S. (1997), Johnson's Atlas & Gazetteer of the Railways of Ireland (Leicester: Midland Publishing). Kennedy M. (2000), The LMS in Ireland: an Irish Railway Pictorial (Leicester: Midland Publishing). Chapter 9: Second World War Lowry B. (1998), 20th Century Defences in Britain: an Introductory Guide (London: Council for British Archaeology). Chapter 10: Recreational Uses Lower Bann Advisory Committee (2008), Lower Bann River Users’ Guide (Lower Bann Advisory Committee). Lower Bann Partnership and Causeway Coast & Glens (n.d.) Lower River Bann Activity Guide. Lower Bann Partnership and Causeway Coast & Glens (n.d.) Lower River Bann Angling Guide. Savage M. (2009), River Bann & Lough Neagh Pilot (River Bann & Lough Neagh Association). Waterways Ireland. Annual Reports & Accounts, 2000 – 2009. Waterways Ireland (2008), Guide to the Lower Bann: Navigation and Recreation Information. Appendix 1 8 APPENDIX 2: SITE DATABASE FIELDS The attributes recorded for each site in the database are as follows: Site no Number allocated to site, running sequentially from 4000 to 4999 (and prefixed with ‘WIIAH’ (= Waterways Ireland Inventory of Architectural Heritage) They run in an upstream direction, from the Barmouth at the north end of the waterway to Lough Neagh at the south end. In some instances, minor structures in close proximity to one another along a stretch of bank, such as private jetties, have been amalgamated under the one site number. The have, however, been differentiated in the ‘Description’ field. In the case of some riverbank features, related buildings and structures further up the bank are also subsumed under the one site number. In a few cases, a site has been subdivided into its component structures, each with its own number, in order to differentiate them for reasons of ownership, date etc. Name Name(s) by which the site is commonly known. Site type The various types of buildings and/or structures now or once encompassed within each site are listed in alphabetical order. In all, 34 site types have been differentiated, some of which have been further differentiated in the ‘Description’ field: Site type Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Boat Boat house Bridge (aerial) Bridge (foot) Bridge (rail) Bridge (road) Canal Club house Coastguard station Dry dock Ecclesiastical Estate building/structure Ferry Ferryman's house Fishing building/structure Includes Barrage; Eel weir; Fish pass; Fish trap; Navigation weir Barge; Boat Boat house; Boat maintenance shed Aerial ropeway Bridge (foot/water) Bridge (rail/water); Contractor's bridge (rail/water) Bridge (road/water) Canal Rowing club house; Yacht club house Coastguard station Dry dock Abbey; Church; Graveyard Farmyard buildings; Folly; Ice house; Pigeon house Ferry Ferryman's house Fishery building; Fish Farm; Fish hatchery; Fishing hut; Ice house; Salmon fishery. See also ‘Barrage/dam/sluice/ weir’ for fish passes and fish/eel traps. Ford Ford Hotel Hotel House. See also ‘Pre-1700’ for earlier houses, castles etc. House Industrial building/structure Brick field; Brick kiln; Brick yard; Chimney; Clay pit; Concrete block works; Corn kiln; Corn mill; Diatomite works; Distillery; Factory; Flax mill; Flax spinning mill; Gasworks; Mill race; Peat works; Pipe; Pottery; Quarry; Saw mill; Sand processing site; Store; Weaving factory See also ‘Railway building/structure’ for industrial railways. Jetty/Pontoon Jetty; Landing stage; Pontoon Landing place Appendix 2 Landing place 1 Lock Lock/Sluice keeper’s house Military building/structure Mole Navigation marker Pier/Quay Pre-1700 Pump house Railway building/structure River drainage deposit Slipway Utility block Water gauge station Lock Lock keeper's house Airfield; Military building; Pillbox Mole; Training bank Leading light; Navigation marker Pier; Pier-Slipway (i.e. sloping pier); Quay Battle site; Bawn; Bullaun; Castle; Crannog; Cross; Earthwork; Enclosure; Find spot; Graveyard; House; Mass rock; Monastery ; Motte; Mound; Settlement; Souterrain; Standing stone Pump house; Wind pump Contractor's railway; Industrial railway; Level crossing house; Railway; Railway siding; Railway station. See also ‘Bridge (rail)’ for railway bridges. Cairn (river drainage) Pier-Slipway (i.e. sloping pier); Slipway Utility block Water gauge station Waterway link? A check box to show if the site is functionally related to the waterway. Note that bridges are deemed not to have a functional relationship except where they had/have an opening span over its navigation channel. Address The site’s location is generally given to the level of townland, nearest postal town and county of that postal town. In the case of urban sites, street names may also be given. Where a site lies in several townlands, these are separated by a forward slash, e.g. Millburn/Waterside, Coleraine, Co Londonderry. Ownership The individual or group responsible for that site: IG Co-Ords Appendix 2 Ballymena BC = Ballymena Borough Council Ballymoney BC = Ballymoney Borough Council Church = Church authority Coleraine BC = Coleraine Borough Council Coleraine HC = Coleraine Harbour Commissioners Education = Educational establishment (school or university) Fisheries = Fisheries Division of Dept Culture, Arts & Leisure Forest Service = Forest Service, an agency within Dept Agriculture & Rural Development Irish Society = The Honourable the Irish Society L. Neagh Fish Co-Op = Lough Neagh Fishermen’s Co-Operative Society. Magherafelt DC = Magherafelt District Council N/A = Not applicable (i.e. site with no visible remains) Nat Trust = National Trust Northern Ireland NIEA = Northern Ireland Environment Service, an agency within Dept Environment Private = owned by individual or non-public organisation Rivers Agency = Rivers Agency, an agency within Dept Agriculture & Rural Development Roads Service = Roads Service, an agency within Dept Regional Development Translink = N. Ireland transport authority (Citybus, NI Railways and Ulsterbus) Unknown = Ownership unknown WI = Waterways Ireland, an agency of Dept Culture, Arts & Leisure Six-figure Irish Grid easting and northing (i.e. specified to 1m). These have been generated from MapInfo maps. Where a site comprises several features, the centroid of their locations is given. The specific locations of these constituent components are usually cited in the ‘Description’ field. 2 IG Easting/ Northing (precise) As above, but to five decimal places. Although these figures are in the tables, they are not reproduced in the ‘forms’ or ‘reports’. ITM Co-Ords Six-figure Irish Transverse Mercator Grid easting and northing (i.e. specified to 1m). These have been converted from IG co-ordinates using the batch conversion program on the Ordnance Survey Ireland website (www.osi.ie). ITM Easting/ Northing (precise) As above, but to two decimal places. Although these figures are in the tables, they are not reproduced in the ‘forms’ or ‘reports’. History Outline of site’s inception and development. Surveyor Name of person who inspected site in the field. FWH = Fred Hamond Survey date Day/ month/ year of survey. Completeness The state of completeness of the site in its present state. Features within the site which have disappeared are noted in the ‘Description’ field. Condition Complete Substantial remains Some remains Traces No visible remains The present state of the remains as they now stand: Excellent = In very good or ‘as new’ condition. Good = In good condition and maintained Fair = In good condition, but not maintained Poor = Derelict Absent = No visible remains survive Unknown Description Overview of site features and descriptions thereof. Heritage criteria checkboxes These are based on criteria set out by the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage. One or more criteria may be applicable to sites of heritage significance: Archaeological Architectural Artistic Cultural Historical Scientific Social Technology Evaluation Rationale behind assigning a significance rating to a site (where of special merit). Note that only sites of post-1700 date have been evaluated. Significance Rating given to the site’s heritage significance, whether because of its importance in relation to the heritage of the Lower Bann Waterway or because of its contribution to the built heritage of the region. Appendix 2 Negligible = Of no heritage significance whatsoever Low = Of local heritage significance Medium = Of high local heritage significance High = Of regional or national heritage significance 3 Action Recommendations for conserving the site: Needs immediate intervention Significant repairs Minor repairs Minimal aesthetic work No action Note that the ‘no action’ recommendation has been applied to all sites of pre1700 date and also to sites which are stable. Statutory Protection Denotes whether a site has statutory protection. If so, the agency responsible for assigning this protection is noted, together with the type of protection and the site’s registration number. Multiple designations are separated by a semicolon. The agency responsible for statutory protection in N. Ireland is the Northern Ireland Environment Agency (NIEA). The types of protection are: HB = Listed Building. Listing grade is given in brackets (A, B+, B1, B2, or B) SM = Scheduled Monument SMSC = Scheduled Monument in State Care Other Databases These denote other databases holding information on the site. Each is denoted by the agency holding it, followed the name of the database and record number within it. Multiple designations are separated by a semi-colon. The principal agencies and their databases are: CMA = Centre for Maritime Archaeology, University of Ulster at Coleraine: MRL = Maritime Record Londonderry NIEA = Northern Ireland Environment Agency: DHP = Defence Heritage Project Record HB = Historic Buildings Record HPG = Historic Parks & Gardens Record IHR = Industrial Heritage Record SMR = Sites & Monuments Record Roads Service Bridge = Roads Service Bridge Database WI Bridge = Waterways Ireland Bridge Database References Author, date, title of publication, place of publication and publisher. Abbreviations used: NLI = National Library Ireland NMNI = National Museums Northern Ireland PRONI = Public Record Office of Northern Ireland document Photographs Where photographs have been taken, each site image is detailed as follows: Image number. Given as WIIAH site number followed by sequential number. Historical photographs are presented first. Photographer: CHC = Coleraine Harbour Commissioners CPW = Commissioners of Public Works (Ireland) FWH = Fred Hamond NIEA = Northern Ireland Environment Agency Abbreviations used in captions: NLI = National Museum Ireland NMNI = National Museum Northern Ireland Appendix 2 4 APPENDIX 3: COMMISSIONERS OF PUBLIC WORKS REPORTS Appendix 3 1 Appendix 3.1: Progress of commissioners of public works on Lower Bann, 1848-61 Reports from 1848 to1858 are by Charles S. Ottley C.E, District Engineer. From 1859 they are by James J. Boylan C.E, the Board of Works’ resident engineer (based at Donaghadee). The reports are ordered by report number, page, and WI site number (WIIAH). See Appendix 3.2 for location of reports in House of Commons volumes. Site Name Comment Report number Report year HC vol pages(s) WIIAH no 17 1848 685 4094 Cutts Quay 500ft of wharf wall built. 4096 Cutts Weir Two fish traps and nearly half of weir completed. 4191 Movanagher Lock Two-thirds of lock completed. 130ft x 20ft-6in; 10ft-6in fall. Gates hung 1850. 4198 Movanagher Canal Bottomed and sloped and 1000yd towing path made. 4224 Portna Canal Bottomed and sloped except for small section below lock. 4260 Portglenone Bridge Substantial temporary bridge constructed in advance of removing the existing one. Chargeable to the two Grand Juries. 4096 Cutts Weir All traps finished and in use. All of east weir finished and west weir two-thirds complete. 4175 Carnroe Lock Three-quarters of the stone has been prepared for this lock. 4191 Movanagher Lock Finished except for gates. 4198 Movanagher Canal Canal finished. 4227 Portna Eel Fishery New eel weirs erected and transferred to lessee. “Of most improved and permanent construction”. Cast-iron frames bolted down on to the rock and gangway over. Lukewarm reception to new design from the fishing interests! Only partly successful in this, their first season of operation. 4260 Portglenone Bridge Stones dressed in preparation. One half of old bridge cleared away. 4339 Toome Weir The most important part of this weir “got in” and one of the moles partly constructed. Well advanced. 4091 Cutts Lock First stone of invert laid on 19 June. Lock now nearing completion. Dimensions 130ft x 20ft-6in; 6ft-6in fall. 18 19 Appendix 3 1849 1850 692 214 2 Appendix 3 4096 Cutts Weir Flooding prevents completion of west section. Watch house and weigh house erected on traps. 4190 Tamlaght Quarry Quarry is supplying stone for Carnroe, Movanagher and Portna locks. 4211 Kilrea Bridge Underpinning of Kilrea Bridge and erection of swivel arch still to be implemented. 4260 Portglenone Bridge A small portion of bridge removed in 1849. All now removed without damage to the temporary bridge. On 12 Aug 1850, the first stone of the Co Antrim abutment laid, since which the abutment and swivel bridge pier 50ft long x 20ft wide have been raised to arch spring level, 12ft above the bed. Much expense in establishing foundations. High quality black whinstone used. 4315 Toome Bridge The three eastern arches and two western ones removed and bed sunk 3ft. 4339 Toome Weir New regulatory weir at Toome noted. In early 1850, a railway laid from the quarry and a bridge over the Bann to assist in weir’s construction. 214-15 4097 Castleroe Mill Mill gable underpinned. New wheel made for Spencer’s Mill. Headrace sunk 2ft and new sluices installed. Tail race sunk 3-4ft and 200yds of new race made to divert the flow back to the river further down than before. Wheel is 16ft x 6ft (the old one was 14ft x 5ft). 215 4090 Cutts mill race Mill race inserted in basin wall. Bottom cill six inches below intended summer water. Will generated 70-200hp depending on state of tide. 4094 Cutts Quay End connected into west end of lock. 4098 Irish Society slip, Cutts Slip erected for Irish Society to access fish traps via a chain rather than gangway. 4175 Carnroe Lock Stonework started on 8 July and completed except for a portion of its coping. Dimensions 130ft x 20ft-6in 4191 Movanagher Lock Walls backed and puddle. Two pairs of gates hung. The four tunnel sluices also done. 4198 Movanagher Canal Mole finished. 216 4227 Portna Eel Fishery Board of Works have purchased the rights to the fishery. However, finding it difficult to let out at what they consider a fair rent. 217 4334 Toome Canal Work starts on 1 May. Piles driven in. 218 -- Some dredging of Maghery Cut (at south end of Lough Neagh) at behest of Ulster Canal Co. 219 -- Difficulty in getting labourers as they are engaged in harvesting and fishing. Notes that an unanticipated expense was the purchase of the eel fisheries at Toome and Portna. Also 3 remarks that although none of the weirs yet finished, except at the Cutts, anticipated that next year (1851), once the gates are hung on three of the locks, there will be a navigable passage from Coleraine to Kilrea, but only with 4-5ft draft for the moment. 20 1851 619 620 621 Appendix 3 -- Glenstall River deepened up to Glenstall flour mills near Agivey to prevent backwatering. 4090 Cutts mill race Walled on both sides and sluice installed. 4091 Cutts Lock Locks completely finished. 4094 Cutts Quay 540ft all now finished and coped. 4096 Cutts Weir Weir finished. 4175 Carnroe Lock Completely finished and coped. Upper gates hung and the lower ones about to be. 4191 Movanagher Lock Sluice mechanisms inserted. Lock now in full working order. Canal now all finished as well. The lock will be initially used in boating stone from Tamlaght Quarry to Portna Lock. 4210 Kilrea Quay Wharf wall erected on north side of bridge, where previously none existed. 60ft long. 4211 Kilrea Bridge During 1851, the Antrim abutment and three adjoining piers underpinned to depth of 7ft. 4220 Portna Locks Work started on Portna Lock. First stone laid, the foundations having been prepared, on 6 Nov. Originally intended to have an invert floor, but not needed as founded on solid rock. Building of side walls and upper cills advancing rapidly. Supplied by boat from Tamlaght Quarry, via Movanagher Lock. Timber obtained for the gates. Anticipated that will be finished next season. 4260 Portglenone Bridge All piers and abutments now to arch spring level. Planned to build arches in summer 1852. Three segmental arches of 65ft span and 15ft rise. Navigation channel of 20ft width to be spanned by a wrought-iron swivel bridge. The dams around the foundations had been kept dry with horse-powered pumps. The masonry had been raised above the water line in Nov 1851. 4264 Portglenone House Boat House New wharf wall and alteration in boat house in Mr Alexander’s Demesne have been completed. 4315 Toome Bridge Foundation for Antrim abutment and swivel bridge pier excavated. Planning to start work in Jan 1852 on the stonework. 4333 Toome Lock Foundations of lock are in hard clay. In progress. Coalisland bricks delivered for the invert and side walls which will start next season. 4339 Toome Weir Work started on regulatory weir. It is to be 1200ft long. The principal row of piles inserted in 1850. In 1851, 300ft length of weir on the Co Antrim side completed, except for cast4 iron caping. Terminating abutment has been built, into which the weir is bonded. 300ft on the Co Derry side in progress, and is ready for caping. Back of weir puddle for 600ft. 21 1852 4341 Lough Neagh Breakwaters The western breakwater has been completed – 720yds long. Used as a landing place for construction materials. 621-622 4334 Toome Canal Extension of Navigation cut into Lough Neagh considerably advanced and mole built in parallel. Canal and mole now competed for 470yds, with 300yds to be completed. Bed width of canal is 40ft and the side next the mole has been paved for its entire length. The stone is brought by railway. Also notes that the spoil from the canal used for land reclamation purposes – 10 acres of former lough bed reclaimed. 622 4315 Toome Bridge The existing bridge was built by the late Viscount O’Neil 70-80 years ago. Heavy toll. It was purchased by the counties Antrim and Derry and since 5 Nov 1851, there has been a toll-free passage over it. Commissioners intend to replace it as cheaper than trying to underpin it. 875 4175 Carnroe Lock Lock gates hung and sluices adjusted. Sluices will be installed over the winter. Outer wall of lock pier finished – 200ft long x 12ft high. The stone has come from Tamlaght Quarry. 4178 Carnroe Canal Canal excavations below lock finished for 400yds. Would have been completed this season but for floods which came three months earlier than in 1851. 4179 Carnroe Weir Weir basin almost excavated. 160ft of weir has been completed, including fish pass. It is intended to finish the remaining 440ft of the 600ft long weir next season. 4200 Movanagher Weir Still to be done. 4211 Kilrea Bridge Masonry far advanced. Contract for wrought-iron superstructure given after public competition. Intended to erect bridge over Navigation in Spring 1853. 4220 Portna Locks Notes that first stone of lock laid in Nov 1851. Lock now nearly completed. Upper and lower gates hung, the middle one awaits. Mechanisms to be fitted. Delay due to difficulty in procuring sufficiently large coping stones. 4211 Kilrea Bridge Swivel bridge by Grendon & Co, Drogheda. Expected to be open early summer 1853. 4260 Portglenone Bridge By close of 1851, the piers and abutments had been raised to spring level. This season, the formwork put up in early June, and the last arch keyed in first week of September. When the centering was removed, no subsidence whatever took place. Since then all stonework completed and ready to receive parapets. The swivel bridge is ready to receive its ironwork. 4260 Portglenone Bridge Swivel bridge by Grendon & Co, Drogheda. Expected to be open early summer 1853. 876 Appendix 3 5 22 1853 615 616 617 23 Appendix 3 1854 742 4315 Toome Bridge Foundations for new bridge laid in March. Since then, the Co Antrim abutment, swivel bridge pier and central pier have been raised to their finished heights. The Navigation span is ready to receive the metalwork. Co Derry abutment work about to start. The use of two horizontal 100ft iron trellis spans and the Navigation span was determined by the fact that the existing approaches to the bridge were at a low level and also the need to minimize obstructions in the river. Contract awarded by Messrs Grendon & Co, Drogheda (they also won contracts for the swivel bridges at Kilrea and Portglenone. Expected to be open early summer 1853. 4333 Toome Lock Since 1851 report, the lock has been founded and is three-quarters complete. This is the last of them to be built. Gates ready. Hoped to be finished in 1853. 4334 Toome Canal Canal from swivel bridge to lock now almost at full depth. Extension out into Lough Neagh in progress. Work at weir hindered by floods. Situation exacerbated by the fact that the old Toome Bridge was holding back the water. Not until the new bridge is finished can the old one be removed. Hoped to clear it in 1853. 4179 Carnroe Weir 600ft weir completed, coped and puddled; fish pass therein. 4200 Movanagher Weir Preparation of stonework underway. 4210 Kilrea Quay Wharf wall coped. 4211 Kilrea Bridge Stonework on swivel bridge abutment raised considerably. Temporary timber bridge erected. Eastern arch of the stone bridge taken down. Bridge delivered by manufacturer and is ready for erection. 4220 Portna Locks Third set of gates hung. Portna Lock finished. 4227 Portna Eel Fishery Let to a new tenant by the Board, the former lessee having gone insolvent. 4229 Portna Weir Yet to start. 4260 Portglenone Bridge Opened 14 Sept 1853. Temporary timber bridge removed soon afterwards. 4315 Toome Bridge New bridge and approaches completed except for pilasters. Opened by Viscount O’Neill on 12 Oct 1853. Road carried on four horizontal trellis girders. Most of the old bridge has been cleared. Notes that the old bridge’s sandstone to be redressed for use in new bridge’s pilasters. 4339 Toome Weir Weir in progress; hearted with stones. 4142 Agivey Bann Bridge The existing timber bridge was decayed and unsafe. Much difficulty in securing it so a swivel bridge could be built at its Co Antrim end. A temporary wooden bridge was built at that end and opened in July 1854 (previously used at Kilrea Bridge as a temporary 6 measure). Enabled work on abutments to swivel bridge to begin. Abutments secured on piles and carried up to coping level. Piles for pier also completed. The new swivel bridge allows for any future replacement of the timber bridge. Stone for the bridge brought from Tamlaght Quarry. 24 1855 4179 Carnroe Weir A fish pass is incorporated into the weir. 4200 Movanagher Weir Since 1853, 600ft has been built and operational since Sept. Founded on solid rock and coped with heavy ashlar. Stone boated from Tamlaght Quarry. A fish pass is incorporated into the weir. 4211 Kilrea Bridge Stonework on swivel section completed and ironwork erected. Opened 27 May 1854. The temporary wooden bridge dismantled and reused at Agivey. 742-743 4229 Portna Weir Yet to be completed. Work started in August. Deliberately deferred to encourage flow through Lough Beg, and thereby scour its bed. This was only partially successful, so decided to start on the weir. Since Sept, 200ft built on solid rock up to 4ft high. Stone will be from Tamlaght Quarry, via Movangher Lock. The quarry is approx 3† miles downriver. 743 -- 501 502 Appendix 3 Notes difficulty of getting labourers as the Ballymena rail extension also underway. Dargan was paying 1s.6d per day, whereas 1s.0d. would have sufficed before! 4315 Toome Bridge Piers and arches of old bridge now removed. River deepened hereabouts 10ft below its former level. Stone from the old bridge recycled into the new bridge’s pilasters (and also into the new quay) 4320 Toome Quay 280ft long. Stone derived from old Toome Bridge. Located above the bridge on the town side. Now awaits coping. 4333 Toome Lock Lock has been coped and the gates hung. Now in working order and the last of the five locks from the Coleraine end. 4142 Agivey Bann Bridge Swivel bridge completed. Opened Oct 1855. Temporary bridge dismantled. 4220 Portna Locks A timber-framed swivel bridge put in to connect with the island which belongs to the Mercers’ Company. Almost ready for use. 4175 Carnroe Lock Sluice machinery for lower gate procured and installed. 4179 Carnroe Weir Dam lowered six inches below summer level. 4229 Portna Weir Weir and fish pass finished. 4233 Animal slipway Watering slip built for cattle (presumed to be 4233). 4234 Animal slipway Watering slip built for cattle (presumed to be 4234). 7 4258 503 25 1856 767 768 26 Appendix 3 1857 610 Portglenone Quay -- New quay constructed and a commodious wharf with steps. Large quantities of brick already delivered for the use of the town etc. Twp large bridges, five locks, six weirs, five wharfs, salmon cribs, and five swivel bridges all now complete. 4315 Toome Bridge Foundation piles of old timber bridge removed on west side and excavation of river bed completed. 4320 Toome Quay Coped and finished. 4339 Toome Weir Hearting complete and cill coping finished. Lake now 6ft below previous level. -- Beacon piles installed along navigable channel between Kilrea and Coleraine. 4093 Cutts Lock House Preparations for lock house underway. 4176 Carnroe Lock House Lock house built – an old store and workshops adapted to that purpose. 4193 Movanagher Lock House Lock house to be built and expected to be finished Spring 1857. 4220 Portna Locks Swivel bridge over lock finished. 4222 Portna Lock House Lock house to be built and expected to be finished Spring 1857. 4328 Toome Lock House Lock house to be built and expected to be finished Spring 1857. 4260 Portglenone Bridge Cost to be met by presentments to counties Antrim and Derry. Total cost ‡8513.14s.0d, to be split equally. This figure also includes part of Toome Bridge. 4294 Lough Beg miles Moles at south end Lough Beg raised. Paved slopes require frequent repair. 4315 Toome Bridge Cost to be met by presentments to counties Antrim and Derry. Total cost ‡8513.14s.0d, to be split equally. This includes Portglenone Br. 4323 Carlisle Bridge Ballymena Railway Co, in relation to its Cookstown Extension, have built a swivel bridge; railway bridge progressing -- Navigation finished, but not yet open to the public. 4093 Cutts Lock House Lock house built. 4096 Cutts Weir One of the salmon cribs has been lowered 2ft [in line with the others] and a fifth one inserted. Also elver slip on west weir. 4141 Agivey Quay 70ft long quay built, with wharf, steps and approach from public road. 8 27 1858 885 4176 Carnroe Lock House Lock house built. 4179 Carnroe Weir Eel slip inserted at each end of weir. 4193 Movanagher Lock House Lock house built. 4200 Movanagher Weir Eel slip inserted at each end of weir. 4222 Portna Lock House Lock house built. 4229 Portna Weir Eel slip inserted at each end of weir. 4323 Carlisle Bridge Railway bridge over Bann completed. Temporary bridge and scaffolding to be removed. 4328 Toome Lock House Lock house built. -4096 Antrim Quay and canal to main road finished. Cutts Weir Eel slip at east end of E weir. 886 -- 29,625 acres improved, and increased in annual valuation to ‡9953. The only outstanding work is dredging channel through Lough Beg – in progress. 28 1859 820 -- All handed over on 25 June 1859 to Trustees. Since final awards in Feb 1859, no further works. However, channel through Lough Beg channel still not complete – 80ft wide at bottom and 7ft below min lake level. More to be done to it. 29 1860 104 -- Further dredging in Lough Beg; only 1250yds remain to be dredged – hoped to do so in April 1861. 30 1861 54 -- No works except completion of Lough Beg channel. Also Toome canal re-excavated to width of 36ft wide at bottom (some silting had accumulated). A total of ‡11 received from season’s grass crop on the mill site plots. Appendix 3 9 Appendix 3.2: Index to the Commissioners’ reports on Lough Neagh Drainage District in the proceedings of the House of Commons Note that reports 1-16 and 31+ make no specific references to the Lough Neagh Drainage District. Appendix 3 Report number Report year House Commons volume 17 1848 23 1849 685-686 18 1849 25 1850 692-693 19 1850 25 1851 214-220 20 1851 41 1852-53 618-625 21 1852 41 1852-53 874-882 22 1853 20 1854 615-618 23 1854 16 1854-55 742-746 24 1855 19 1856 501-506 25 1856 17 1857 (2nd) 767-771 26 1857 26 1857-58 610-612 27 1858 14 1859 (2nd) 885-886 28 1859 34 1860 820 29 1860 33 1861 104 30 1861 28 1862 54 10 House Commons session year HC volume pages(s) APPENDIX 4: SITES OF HERITAGE SIGNIFICANCE 4.1 Low Significance Site no Name Site type Address Statutory Protection 4012 Coastguard station Barmouth Road, Ballywoolen, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4013 Railway building/structure Barmouth Road, Ballywoolen, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4023 Boat Farranlester, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4026 Carnanee Jetty Jetty/Pontoon Carnanee, Portstewart, Co L’derry None 4032 Cranagh Fishery Fishing building/structure 78 Portstewart Road, Ballysally, Coleraine, Co L’derry None Industrial building/structure Ballyness, Coleraine, Co L’derry None Industrial building/structure Ballyness, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4114 Industrial building/structure Fish Loughan, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4119 River drainage deposit Loughan Island, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4124 Water gauge station Camus, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4090 4097 Castleroe Mill (2) 4135 Derry Central Railway Railway building/structure Artigoran, Ballymoney, Co Antrim/ Ballylagan, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4136 Macfin Bridge Bridge (rail) Artigoran, Ballymoney, Co Antrim/ Ballylagan, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4137 Drumaheglis Distillery; Hibernian Woollen Factory Industrial building/structure 60 Glenstall Road, Drumaheglis, Ballymoney, Co Antrim None 4146 Industrial building/structure Glasgort, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4162 Industrial building/structure Drumeil, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4183 Vow Graveyard Ecclesiastical; Pre-1700 Vow, Ballymoney, Co Antrim None 4190 Tamlaght Quarry Industrial building/structure Tamlaght, Coleraine, Co L’derry None 4203 Moore Lodge Jetty House; Jetty/Pontoon; Landing place 166 Vow Road, Moore Lodge, Ballymoney, Co Antrim None Appendix 4 1 4290 Church Island Pier Pier/Quay Church Island, Intake, Bellaghy, Magherafelt, Co L’derry None 4308 Creagh Diatomite Works Industrial building/structure The Creagh, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim None 4315 Toome Bridge Bridge (road) The Creagh/Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim None 4323 Carlisle Bridge Bridge (rail) The Creagh/Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim None 4324 Cookstown Branch Railway Railway building/structure The Creagh/Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim None 4.2 Medium Significance Site no Name 4002 Site type Address Military building/structure East Crossreagh, Portstewart, Co L’derry 4004 Lower Leading Light Navigation marker Ballywoolen, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4007 Upper Leading Light Navigation marker Ballywoolen, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4009 Bridge (rail) Ballywoolen, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4010 Railway building/structure Carnanee/East Crossreagh/Garborgle/West Crossreagh, Portstewart, Co L’derry 4016 Military building/structure Grange Beg, Coleraine, Co L’derry Statutory Protection NIEA SMR LDY 003:078 (SM) NIEA SMR LDY 002:501 (SM) NIEA SMR LDY 002:019 (SM) 4022 Belfast-Derry Railway Railway building/structure Various, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4025 Carnanee Quarry Industrial building/structure Carnanee/Garborgle, Portstewart, Co L’derry 4049 Riversdale Quay Pier/Quay Riversdale Road, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4054 Potato Quay Pier/Quay Riversdale Road, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4055 Bannside Wharf Pier/Quay Coleraine, Co L’derry 4062 Clothworkers Arms Hotel Hotel 1 Waterside, Coleraine, Co L’derry NIEA HB 03/16/001A 4067 Bann/ Coleraine Rowing Club Club house; Jetty/Pontoon 66 Hanover Place, Coleraine, Co L’derry NIEA HB 03/18/017 Industrial building/structure Mill Loughan, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4113 Appendix 4 2 4122 St Paul's Church Ecclesiastical 181 Loughan Road, Fish Loughan, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4142 Agivey Bann Bridge Bridge (road) Cross, Ballymoney, Co Antrim/Lissaghmore, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4154 Military building/structure Landagivey, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4155 Military building/structure Landagivey, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4158 Military building/structure Landagivey, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4159 Military building/structure Drumeil, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4163 Military building/structure Drumeil, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4165 Military building/structure Drumeil, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4166 Military building/structure Drumeil, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4201 Glandore Boat House Boat house; House; Slipway 160 Vow Road, Ardnagross, Ballymoney, Co Antrim 4205 Moore Lodge Pigeon House Estate building/structure Moore Lodge, Ballymoney, Co Antrim 4210 Kilrea Quay Pier/Quay Culmore, Rasharkin, Ballymena, Co Antrim 4219 Military building/structure Moneygran, Kilrea, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4225 Military building/structure Culmore, Rasharkin, Ballymena, Co Antrim 4228 Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir; Bridge (foot); Jetty/Pontoon; Slipway Culmore, Rasharkin, Ballymena, Co Antrim/Moneygran, Kilrea, Coleraine, Co 4250 Military building/structure Gortfad, Portglenone, Ballymena, Co Antrim 4254 Military building/structure Glenone, Portglenone, Ballymena, Co Antrim 4288 Boat house; Canal; Pier/Quay; Slipway Intake, Bellaghy, Magherafelt, Co L’derry 4295 Pier/Quay Drumraymond, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4304 Military building/structure Brecart, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim Pier/Quay; Railway building/structure Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4320 Appendix 4 Toome Quay (2) 3 NIEA HB 03/06/003 NIEA HB 04/11/004 4.3 High Significance Site no Name Site type Address Statutory Protection 4000 Barmouth Moles Mole Ballywoolen, Coleraine/East Crossreagh, Portstewart, Co L’derry NIEA SMR LDY 002:500 (SM); SMR LDY 003:500 (SM) 4001 Training bank Mole Ballywoolen, Coleraine, Co L’derry NIEA SMR LDY 002:500 (SM) 4044 Bann Railway Bridge Bridge (rail) Millburn/Waterside, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4064 Bann Bridge, Coleraine Bridge (road) Bridge Street, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4083 Sandel Ford Ford; Pre-1700 Mount Sandel/Somerset, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4091 Lock 1, Cutts Lock Ballyness, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4094 Cutts Quay Jetty/Pontoon; Pier/Quay Ballyness, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4096 Cutts Weir; Cutts Flood Gates Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Ballyness, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4106 Camus House, Cross & Graveyard Ecclesiastical; Pre-1700 Curragh Road, Camus, Coleraine, Co L’derry Industrial building/structure Mill Loughan, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4112 4116 Camus Ford; Loughan Ford Ford; Pre-1700 Camus/Fish Loughan/Mill Loughan, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4149 Aghadowey Airfield; Mullaghmore Airfield Military building/structure Glasgort, Aghadowey, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4175 Lock 2, Carnroe Jetty/Pontoon; Lock Vow, Ballymoney, Co Antrim 4178 Carnroe Canal Canal Vow, Ballymoney, Co Antrim 4179 Carnroe Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Carranrow, Coleraine, Co L’derry/Vow, Ballymoney, Co Antrim 4191 Lock 3, Movanagher Bridge (road); Jetty/Pontoon; Lock Artiloman, Ballymoney, Co Antrim 4198 Movanagher Canal Canal Artiloman/Ardnagross, Ballymoney, Co Antrim Appendix 4 4 NIEA HB 03/18/020 NIEA HB 03/14/006 NIEA HB 03/03/004 (house); SMR LDY 007:022 (cross; SM) NIEA SMR LDY 007:100 (SM) NIEA HB 04/11/009 4200 Movanagher Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Ardnagross, Ballymoney, Co Antrim/Movanagher, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4211 Kilrea Bridge Bridge (road) Bann Road, Rasharkin, Ballymena, Co Antrim/Kilrea, Coleraine, Co L’derry NIEA HB 04/11/001 4220 Lock 4, Portna Bridge (road); Jetty/Pontoon; Lock Moneygran, Kilrea, Coleraine, Co L’derry NIEA HB 08/03/015 4223 Portna Dry Dock & Quay Dry dock; Pier/Quay Moneygran, Kilrea, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4224 Portna Canal Canal Moneygran, Kilrea, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4226 Kilrea Eel Fishery; Portna Eel Fishery Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Culmore, Rasharkin, Ballymena, Co Antrim/Moneygran, Kilrea, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4229 Portna Flood Gates & Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Culmore, Rasharkin, Ballymena, Co Antrim/Moneygran, Kilrea, Coleraine, Co L’derry 4260 Bann Bridge, Portglenone Bridge (road) Garvaghy/Glenone, Portglenone, Ballymena, Co Antrim 4276 Newferry Diatomite Works Industrial building/structure; Pier/Quay; Pump house Ballymacombs More, Bellaghy, Magherafelt, Co L’derry 4287 Ballyscullion Palace Estate building/structure; House; Military building/structure Ballyscullion West, Bellaghy, Magherafelt, Co L’derry 4291 Church Island Ecclesiastical; Estate building/structure; Pre-1700 Church Island, Intake, Bellaghy, Magherafelt, Co L’derry 4294 Lough Beg mole Mole Brecart, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4298 New Cut Canal Brecart, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4313 Toome Eel Fishery Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir; Pier/Quay; Pump house Brecart/Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4333 Lock 5, Toome Jetty/Pontoon; Lock Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4334 Toome Canal Canal Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim Appendix 4 5 NIEA HB 07/06/017 NIEA HB 08/09/014 (steeple); SMR LDY 042:014 (church; SMSC) NIEA HB 20/01/007 4339 Toome Flood Gates & Weir Barrage/Dam/Sluice/Weir Intake/Toome, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4341 Lough Neagh Mole Mole Intake, Toomebridge, Antrim, Co Antrim 4342 Toome Airfield Military building/structure The Creagh, Toomebridge Key to Statutory Protection: HB = Listed Building SM = Scheduled Monument SMSC = Scheduled Monument in State Care Appendix 4 6