Perfect Recipes for Having People Over
Transcription
Perfect Recipes for Having People Over
Perfect Recipes P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F 0 R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R P A M A N D E R S O N P H O T O G R A P H S HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY Boston New York BY RITA M A A S C O N T E N T S Acknowledgments Introduction ix x T H E B I G S T U F F A L L T H E Main Courses R E S T Kitchen Gatherings 2 Appetizers and 54 70 95 Outdoor Affairs First Courses 1 1 4 I n the Dining Room First-Course S o u p s Breakfasts for Company Salads 154 165 Side Dishes 194 Breads 2 2 3 Really Simple Desserts 2 3 3 Drinks Index 281 294 I N T R O D U C T I O N h e n I first started c o o k i n g , b a c k i n the late 1 9 7 0 s , e n t e r t a i n i n g was a p r o d u c t i o n . I s t a r c h e d a n d i r o n e d the t a b l e c l o t h a n d n a p k i n s , p o l i s h e d e a c h glass, a n d set the table at least a day b e f o r e the b i g event. I s l a v i s h l y f o l l o w e d m e n u s , t r e k k i n g f r o m store to store to find the exact i n g r e d i e n t s . No r e c i p e was too l o n g , no m e a l too e l a b o r a t e . I n fact, I t h r i v e d on m u l t i s t e p d i s h e s that r e q u i r e d days of a t t e n t i o n a n d care: puff pastry, l a y e r e d pates a n d v e g e t a b l e t e r r i n e s , m i n i a t u r e sweet a n d savory tarts. I still love to have f r i e n d s over, but s o m e t h i n g h a p p e n e d along the way. First one daughter was b o r n , t h e n a s e c o n d . P a r t - t i m e w o r k evolved into a f u l l - t i m e j o b . Casual h o b b i e s b e c a m e p a s s i o n a t e avocations. With all t h e s e activities fighting for m y t i m e , I h a d to change the way I c o o k e d . My m e n u s are s i m p l e and flexible now, a n d m y parties mostly s p u r - o f - t h e m o m e n t . I love potlucks a n d s h a r e d s u p p e r s , a n d k i d s are always w e l c o m e . T h e food's fun, the a t m o s p h e r e ' s casual, a n d family a n d f r i e n d s always gravitate to the kitchen. My standards h a v e n ' t s l i p p e d —great food h e l p s m a k e a great party—but great food d o e s n ' t have to be difficult. M y R o s e m a r y - S c e n t e d Roast P o r k L o i n is succulent, juicy, beautiful, a n d utterly s i m p l e . M o l t e n Chocolate Cakes are wonderfully oozy and c h o c o l a t y — m a n y p e o p l e t h i n k t h e y ' r e b e t t e r t h a n a chocolate layer cake. M a d e i n muffin p a n s , they can be a s s e m b l e d in just a few m i n u t e s a n d t h e n b a k e d i n the t i m e it takes to clear the d i n n e r d i s h e s a n d put on a pot of coffee. B e c a u s e it's so easy, C h i c k e n Chili (red or w h i t e ) always m a k e s it onto m y short list w h e n I host a c r o w d . A l t h o u g h it tastes authentic a n d l o n g - s i m m e r e d , it's m a d e with convenience items —rotisserie chickens, store-bought chicken broth, and c a n n e d b e a n s —and it cooks in l e s s t h a n forty-five m i n u t e s . W h e t h e r y o u ' r e s h a r i n g a m e a l w i t h family, k i c k i n g b a c k with a few f r i e n d s , or h o s t i n g half the n e i g h b o r h o o d , h a v i n g a set of s i m p l e , foolproof r e c i p e s m a k e s it easy to focus on the a l l - i m p o r t a n t goal of b r i n g i n g p e o p l e together around the table. P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R Sharing a Meal T h e g r e a t e r e n d of table fellowship was brought h o m e to m e forcefully a few y e a r s back. I h a d just a r r i v e d h o m e f r o m a m o n t h s - l o n g b o o k tour. S i n c e I was t e a c h i n g in a different city nearly every day, m y life had b e c o m e strangely u n r e a l . I was feeling depleted a n d altogether u n i n s p i r e d o n m y r e t u r n h o m e , w h e n our friends Monty a n d A n n e i n v i t e d us for a n i m p r o m p t u lunch. M o n t y said they w e r e g r i l l i n g c h i c k e n breasts, w i t h a black b e a n and c o r n salad. He suggested I b r i n g a dessert that would go with fruit. I d i d n ' t have the e n e r g y to m a k e anything, so I s p e d to the g r o c e r y store and g r a b b e d a c o n t a i n e r of sliced p o u n d cake a n d a can of w h i p p e d c r e a m . " E v e n with s u c h short notice, t h e y ' r e e x p e c t i n g m o r e f r o m m e , " I thought. I s h o u l d have k n o w n better. A n n e h a d w r e s t l e d w i t h cancer. Staring d o w n M e d u s a eyed death until it b l i n k e d , A n n e was the realest p e r s o n I k n e w . We a r r i v e d as o n e of h e r friends was cutting up the grilled c h i c k e n to add to the black b e a n and c o r n salad. T h e six of u s carried the m e a l — i n c l u d i n g plates, flatware, and g l a s s e s —to a n outdoor table. That s h a r e d m e a l was a t i m e l e s s m o m e n t of s i m plicity a n d p l a i n beauty. We s p o o n e d the black b e a n salad f r o m a metal m i x i n g bowl, and w e p i c k e d up salad g r e e n s w i t h our h a n d s straight from the salad s p i n n e r . We ate from plastic plates, s i p p e d ice tea f r o m an array of plastic cups collected f r o m fastfood restaurants, a n d talked. We changed into s w i m s u i t s for a quick dip i n the pool, t h e n e n d e d with dessert — m y s t o r e - b o u g h t p o u n d cake, lightly toasted, with a salad of f r e s h p l u m s , p e a c h e s , s t r a w b e r r i e s , and b l u e b e r r i e s , flavored with m i n t f r o m A n n e ' s g a r d e n . M y h u s b a n d a n d I h a d a r r i v e d h a r r i e d a n d b i c k e r i n g . We left c a l m and r e l a x e d . We all u n d e r s t a n d the i m p o r t a n c e of g a t h e r i n g with friends a n d family. S o why don't we do it m o r e often? It's f e a r — f e a r that we don't have the time or skill to pull off a meal that will be good enough. T h a t ' s why it's i m p o r t a n t to stop e n t e r t a i n i n g and just h a v e people over. T h e very w o r d " e n t e r t a i n " m a k e s m o s t p e o p l e c r i n g e . A recent Gallup poll found that .Americans r a n k e n t e r t a i n i n g — a l o n g with filing tax r e t u r n s a n d v i s i t i n g the dentist — as the n u m b e r - o n e s t r e s s - r e l a t e d event in t h e i r lives. E n t e r t a i n i n g s c o r e d e v e n h i g h e r o n the stress chart than childbirth. How could s o m e t h i n g so ultimately satisfying cause so m u c h anxiety? I N T R O D U C T I O N It's b e c a u s e "entertaining" d o e s n ' t i m p l y s i m p l y m a k i n g a n i c e d i n n e r for a few of y o u r f r i e n d s . It m e a n s y o u have to cook s o m e t h i n g f a n c y — s o m e t h i n g y o u ' v e p r o b ably n e v e r m a d e b e f o r e . Y o u ' v e got to head to the w i n e store a n d hope the s a l e s p e r s o n k n o w s his stuff. Y o u ' v e got to buy candles a n d a flower a r r a n g e m e n t . Y o u have to iron the tablecloth a n d n a p k i n s . Y o u can't just p i c k up the h o u s e , y o u have to s c r u b it. By the time the guests a r r i v e , y o u ' l l be i n no m o o d for a party. If y o u ' r e entertaining, in short, y o u ' v e got to have y o u r place l o o k i n g as if the photo crew from Architectural Digest is about to drop in. But if y o u ' r e h a v i n g people over, all that can wait. At our house, the chores still have to get d o n e , of course, but my h u s b a n d and I have s u c c e e d e d in u n h o o k i n g t h e s e f r o m food a n d f r i e n d s . If t h e r e ' s t i m e to c l e a n u p a n d organize the stacks of magazines, catalogues, a n d u n p a i d b i l l s , fine. If not, w e just straighten them. If the g a r d e n was w o r k e d o v e r last week, fine. If not, my h u s b a n d p i c k s out the t o w e r i n g w e e d s , a n d w e let it go. D e c i d i n g w h e n to have p e o p l e over can be a little l i k e waiting for the perfect t i m e to get m a r r i e d or have a b a b y or buy a h o u s e : y o u m a y n e v e r get a r o u n d to doing it if y o u delay until all the c o n d i t i o n s are right. It takes courage to invite t h e m , ready or not, but it's powerful w h e n y o u do. A n d h e r e ' s the reality: m o s t p e o p l e cook so infrequently that any h o m e - c o o k e d meal is special. In fact, I've found the m o r e d o w n - h o m e the food a n d the m o r e c a s u al the setting, the l i v e l i e r a n d h a p p i e r the party. T h e r e are two different ways to have people over. T h e first way —preferable to most cooks — is to p l a n a m e n u that c a n b e p r e p a r e d a l m o s t completely ahead, so t h e r e ' s v e r y little to do (and very little that can go w r o n g ) d u r i n g the party. Really G o o d Lasagna, for instance, is an u n c o m p l i c a t e d c r o w d - p l e a s e r , r e f m e d e n o u g h for a formal d i n n e r p a r t y yet right at h o m e at a potluck. O v e n - B a r b e c u e d P o r k has all the flavor and a p p e a r a n c e of meat that's b e e n lovingly t e n d e d o v e r an outdoor fire all day, but it literally cooks while you s l e e p . S i m p l e Cassoulet is robust a n d rustic, and u n l i k e the traditional v e r sion, w h i c h must be started a day or two i n advance, it can be m a d e in a few h o u r s . T h e s e c o n d way to have p e o p l e over is to do a little of the c o o k i n g d u r i n g the party. Easy Baked Risotto and Roast Rack of L a m b with V i n e g a r - M i n t Pan S a u c e are i m p r e s s i v e d i n n e r s that d e m a n d v e r y little u p - f r o n t t i m e or effort a n d can cook u n a t t e n d e d while y o u enjoy cocktail hour. Xll m P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R B e t t e r yet, have guests do s o m e of the c o o k i n g — t h e y may not even realize that y o u ' v e e n l i s t e d t h e m to do half the w o r k ! For S h i s h K e b a b s —the perfect m e a l for sat isfying b o t h strict v e g e t a r i a n s a n d ravenous c a r n i v o r e s — set out bowls of m a r i n a t e d meat a n d c u t - u p v e g e t a b l e s and let y o u r friends s k e w e r t h e i r own. j "J "i r "| •% 9 / YI Because the rest of the m e a l follows naturally after y o u ' v e p i c k e d a m a i n c o u r s e , I've organized the book by p l a c i n g the m a i n courses ("The B i g Stuff") first, followed by the appetizers, s o u p s , salads, s i d e d i s h e s , b r e a d s , desserts, a n d d r i n k s ("All the R e s t " ) . To h e l p you quickly find what y o u n e e d , I've d i v i d e d the m a i n - c o u r s e r e c i p e s into t h o s e suitable for casual g e t - t o g e t h e r s , w a r m - w e a t h e r events, m o r e formal affairs, and m o r n i n g fare. So y o u can get comfortable with y o u r choice a n d m a k e s u r e it's right for the occasion, each r e c i p e is a c c o m p a n i e d by a s h a d e d box w i t h a n s w e r s to i m p o r t a n t q u e s t i o n s . W h e n s h o u l d I s e r v e it? H o w can I vary it? A n y shortcuts? What should I serve with it? How far a h e a d can I m a k e it? What about leftovers? F o r i n s t a n c e , w h e n y o u ' v e d e c i d e d to have a s i t - d o w n d i n n e r for eight p e o p l e and y o u ' r e c o n s i d e r i n g rack o f l a m b for the m a i n course, if y o u s c a n the box, y o u ' l l be r e m i n d e d that this cut is e x p e n s i v e a n d also d e m a n d s l a s t - m i n u t e c o o k i n g and carv ing. T h a t ' s not what you h a d in m i n d , so you l o o k for a n o t h e r m a i n course. Y o u want to have a couple dozen friends over for d r i n k s a n d appetizers. S i n c e y o u ' r e short on t i m e a n d m o n e y a n d it's a group with m i x e d tastes, y o u t h i n k about the appetizer b a r (see page i ? 6 ) . T h i s attractive h o r s d ' o e u v r e buffet of b r e a d s , s p r e a d s , a n d colorful toppings really m a k e s a s p l a s h . T h e box tells y o u it offers i n c r e d i b l e variety, is relatively i n e x p e n s i v e , and, s i n c e guests a s s e m b l e their own n i b b l e s , r e q u i r e s m i n i m a l p r e p a r a t i o n . B i n g o ! T h e q u e s t i o n about shortcuts lets you k n o w that y o u could also u s e s t o r e - b o u g h t pita a n d tortilla c h i p s and g r o c e r y - s t o r e salad b a r items for s o m e of the t o p p i n g s . Before y o u go any further, be s u r e y o u ' r e b e i n g realistic about the t i m e y o u can devote to s h o p p i n g and cooking. M a k e up y o u r m i n d to be flexible —at the store, in the kitchen, at the table. If the r e c i p e calls for w a t e r c r e s s but the b u n c h you see in the I N T R O D U C T I O N m a r k e t l o o k s ready for the c o m p o s t heap, let the m a r k e t k e e p it. Buy a b a b y lettuce b l e n d or arugula instead. Or c o n s i d e r a h e a d of m i l d butter lettuce m i x e d with assertive r a d i c c h i o . If the grocery store flowers l o o k u n e x c e p t i o n a l a n d y o u don't have t i m e to a r r a n g e t h e m anyway, h e a d back to the p r o d u c e d e p a r t m e n t a n d p i c k up s o m e a p p l e s or l e m o n s or s t r a w b e r r i e s for a c e n t e r p i e c e b o w l . Setting the table i n advance s e n d s guests the w e l c o m e m e s s a g e that y o u ' r e ready — e v e n if y o u ' r e not. A n d if y o u ' r e b e h i n d w h e n they a r r i v e , it's e a s i e r to a s k for h e l p s l i c i n g a c u c u m b e r or t o p p i n g toasts t h a n to s e n d s o m e o n e off to try to set the table. A f t e r the table is ready, y o u can relax a little. F r o m h e r e o n out, it's just c o o k ing. With a decently stocked k i t c h e n , y o u can pull things together by the t i m e y o u r c o m p a n y c o m e s — e v e n if it's not everything that y o u p l a n n e d . If y o u find y o u r s e l f r u n n i n g b e h i n d , stay c a l m a n d r e l y o n b a c k u p i n g r e d i e n t s i n the c u p b o a r d s . W h e n t h e r e ' s no t i m e to m a k e the quesadilla appetizers or s m o k e d s a l m o n toasts after all, d o n ' t fret. P r o u d l y set out a b i g bowl of pistachios a n d c h e r r y tomatoes. Or just s k i p the toasts a n d s e r v e the s m o k e d s a l m o n w i t h s o m e n i c e c r a c k ers, a n d let y o u r f r i e n d s a s s e m b l e t h e i r own. I n s t e a d of the d e s s e r t y o u p l a n n e d on, put a couple of scoops of sorbet in n i c e goblets a n d g a r n i s h w i t h a little f r e s h fruit. Y o u don't have beautiful b e r r i e s ? T h i n l y s l i c e or m i n c e a n apple for a h a n d s o m e g a r n i s h . rlanningjor Big Lret-logethers If you find y o u r s e l f frequently h o s t i n g d i n n e r s for two or t h r e e dozen p e o p l e , it may be t i m e to buy a few things for s u c h o c c a s i o n s . I i n v e s t e d in a couple dozen n i c e but i n e x p e n s i v e white plates, cheap w i n e g l a s s e s that w o r k for any b e v e r a g e , a n d a few sets of s i l v e r w a r e . T h i s way, I don't h a v e to call the rental c o m p a n y or try to p i e c e t o g e t h e r e n o u g h f r o m m y c u p b o a r d s every t i m e I have a buffet. I store all of t h e s e i n the b a s e m e n t , separate f r o m m y everyday d i s h e s a n d china, b r i n g i n g t h e m up w h e n it's t i m e to p r e p a r e a n d r e t u r n i n g t h e m to their place after I've c l e a n e d t h e m . W h e n e v e r p o s s i b l e , m i x d i s p o s a b l e tableware with the real stuff to l e n d an air of s u b s t a n c e . Plates a n d s i l v e r w a r e are easy to pop in the d i s h w a s h e r , so y o u could p a i r t h e m with d i s p o s a b l e plastic g l a s s e s . Or c o n s i d e r real d i s h e s for the m a i n course a n d p a p e r o n e s for d e s s e r t . F o r g l a s s e s , be s u r e to figure o n about o n e t h i r d m o r e t h a n the n u m b e r of guests y o u ' v e invited, to take into account p e o p l e w h o ' l l lose t h e i r s or switch d r i n k s b e t w e e n cocktails a n d d i n n e r . If y o u don't have e n o u g h g l a s s w a r e , put out what y o u have with XIV • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R a stack of d i s p o s a b l e s as b a c k u p . Y o u ' l l also n e e d a n ice bucket a n d a metal tub (or a large c o o l e r ) for i c i n g d o w n b e e r , w i n e , a n d s o d a s . You m a y want to i n v e s t i n a s m a l l folding table to s e r v e as a b a r (which frees up the d i n i n g r o o m a n d k i t c h e n tables for d i n n e r seating) a n d a t h i r t y - c u p coffeepot. S i n c e m o s t buffets include a big salad, y o u ' l l want a gigantic salad bowl. Two large r o a s t i n g p a n s will save y o u h o u r s of k i t c h e n t i m e . H e r e ' s how: Y o u ' v e d e c i d e d to m a k e b e e f stew for y o u r d i n n e r for t w e n t y - f o u r . F o r a crowd that size, y o u will n e e d to b r o w n at least n i n e p o u n d s of b e e f cubes, w h i c h would take y o u m o r e than a n h o u r i n a Dutch o v e n (eight batches at eight m i n u t e s p e r b a t c h ) . Instead, heat up those roasting p a n s o v e r two b u r n e r s a n d r e d u c e y o u r n u m b e r to two b a t c h e s p e r pan, o r a total of s i x t e e n m i n u t e s . Y o u ' v e s a v e d f o r t y - e i g h t m i n u t e s . R o a s t i n g p a n s w o r k for other c o o k i n g t e c h n i q u e s as well —sauteing o n i o n s , s i m m e r i n g chili, or s t e a m i n g g r e e n b e a n s for a crowd. T h e l a r g e r the surface is, the m o r e y o u can cook at a t i m e , a n d the m o r e t i m e y o u can s p e n d r e l a x i n g w i t h y o u r guests. Large d i s p o s a b l e roasting p a n s can also be u s e d . A l t h o u g h they're a little t h i n for b r o w n i n g and s e a r i n g meat, they w o r k beautifully for sauteing, s t e a m i n g , a n d s i m m e r i n g . Just w a t c h the heat a little m o r e carefully a n d stir a little m o r e f r e quently. ing with the Flow No m a t t e r h o w organized y o u may b e , though, t h e r e are t i m e s w h e n life i n t e r v e n e s to thwart y o u r p l a n s . Not l o n g ago, m y h u s b a n d a n d I c o m m i s s i o n e d our artist n e p h e w to do two large p a i n t i n g s . A s part of the deal, he w o u l d d e l i v e r t h e m , a n d w e ' d use the o c c a s i o n to host a m i n i family r e u n i o n . W h e n the t i m e came for h i m to m a k e the trip, he talked h i s father into d r i v i n g out w i t h h i m for the M e m o r i a l Day w e e k e n d . A few days b e f o r e they a r r i v e d , he called to say they w e r e able to get away a day e a r l i e r . S i n c e I had to w o r k that day, I d i d n ' t get a r o u n d to figuring out a m e n u until m i d a f t e r n o o n . I had e n o u g h s e n s e to p l a n a s i m p l e grocery store m e n u of Perfect Roast C h i c k e n s e r v e d w i t h L e m o n - A r t i c h o k e S a u c e with G a r l i c a n d Parsley, but I d i d n ' t get h o m e from s h o p p i n g until late afternoon. I had m a n a g e d to fry the tortillas for the Tortilla S u n d a e s a n d ready the c h i c k ens for the oven w h e n the d o o r b e l l rang—two h o u r s early. We b r o k e o p e n a bottle of bubbly to celebrate a n d spent the next h o u r chatting a n d a d m i r i n g the p a i n t i n g s . A piece of m e w a s e n j o y i n g the m o m e n t , but d e e p d o w n I w a s p a n i c k e d . A t 7:3o, just as I N T R O D U C T I O N I was h e a d i n g back to the kitchen, m y b r o t h e r - a n d s i s t e r - i n - l a w a n d t h e i r t h r e e k i d s pulled into the driveway. I was l i v i n g m y worst anxiety d r e a m . S h a r i n g anxiety does w o n d e r s for stress, a n d i n a m o m e n t m y s i s t e r - i n - l a w a n d h e r k i d s w e r e h e l p i n g m e a s s e m b l e Easy Butternut S q u a s h Ravioli for the first c o u r s e . My n i e c e a n d n e p h e w s s e e m e d to be h a v i n g fun. T h e guys c a r r i e d in the luggage a n d m a d e up the guest r o o m while m y s i s t e r - i n - l a w set the table. I put the c h i c k e n s i n the oven, refilled the nut bowl, a n d o p e n e d s o m e m o r e s p a r k l i n g w i n e . W h e n apocalypse threatens, let t h e m sip c h a m p a g n e ! T h e r e was so m u c h family b o n d i n g g o i n g on that no one cared that d i n n e r was delayed. Finally the c h i c k e n s w e r e roasted, a n d I m a d e the sauce. We c o o k e d the ravioli, put t h e m on plates, a n d g a r n i s h e d t h e m . A f t e r the first course, I p i l e d the carved c h i c k e n s a n d bright g r e e n asparagus on a platter, and we p a s s e d it a r o u n d f a m i l y style. I was b e g i n n i n g to u n w i n d . T h e c o n v e r s a t i o n was lively, a n d our usually quiet niece and n e p h e w s w e r e especially talkative. T h e platter was p a s s e d again, a n d w e d e v o u r e d all the food. It w o r k e d its m a g i c a r o u n d the table. I often t h i n k b a c k o n that d i n n e r . M o r e t h a n the e m b a r r a s s m e n t of b e i n g caught u n p r e p a r e d , what I r e m e m b e r is my s i s t e r - i n - l a w ' s satisfaction at b e i n g able to help s o m e o n e w h o was usually well p r e p a r e d . I recall the p r i d e in m y n i e c e ' s a n d n e p h e w s ' faces as they m a d e a real c o n t r i b u t i o n to d i n n e r . A n d I w o n ' t forget m y b r o t h e r - i n - l a w ' s c o m m e n t a few m o n t h s later. " Y o u ' r e always so r e l a x e d w h e n y o u have p e o p l e o v e r , " he s a i d . "You just s e e m to roll w i t h w h a t e v e r h a p p e n s . " I w o u l d p r e f e r not to p r e s i d e over that k i n d of d i n n e r party often, but it was a good r e m i n d e r that h a v i n g people over is a selfless act. E v e n if things a r e n ' t perfect — a n d often p r e c i s e l y b e c a u s e , b l e s s e d l y , t h e y ' r e not —people appreciate y o u r gift of time a n d self. A s m u c h as I care about food, d i n n e r s like that r e m i n d m e that the food is not the ultimate point —the p e o p l e are. A n d w h e n I r e m e m b e r that, it is m u c h e a s ier to have p e o p l e over. P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S These are the dishes to consider when you want to keep it casual and friendly. Most of the recipes in this section are completely do-ahead — even ones that are traditionally made at the last minute. CHICKEN SOUP FOR COZY NIGHTS MAKES T h e first spoonful of this soup evokes a n ahhh. I often m a k e it the night h o u s e g u e s t s a r r i v e , a n d it's o n the short list of d i s h e s m y & & ' 3 h J T 0 4 Q U A R T S ' SERVES 8 daughters r e q u e s t w h e n they c o m e h o m e f r o m college. L i g h t y e t sat isfying and n o u r i s h i n g , it's perfect for p e o p l e who are tired, r o a d weary, and u n s e t t l e d f r o m s n a c k i n g o n j u n k all day. It's also great the next day, w h e n y o u ' v e b e e n p l a y i n g t o u r guide a n d t h e r e ' s no t i m e to m a k e l u n c h . Pull out the soup a n d heat up an h o n e s t loaf of b r e a d . S e r v e s o m e apple c h u n k s , m a y b e s o m e c o o k i e s . Or drop off a pot of soup for s o m e o n e w h o has just m o v e d , h a d a baby, or is f e e l i n g u n d e r the w e a t h e r . F r o m - s c r a t c h c h i c k e n soup d o e s n ' t have to start with a raw c h i c k e n . S o u p m a d e f r o m a s t o r e - b o u g h t roast c h i c k e n is just as flavorful a n d o h - s o - s i m p l e . B y s h r e d d i n g the meat a n d s i m m e r i n g the b o n e s a n d s k i n w i t h c a r t o n e d o r c a n n e d c h i c k e n broth, y o u k n o c k h o u r s off the c o o k i n g t i m e but e n d up with soup that tastes as good as if y o u ' d started f r o m scratch. WHEN SHOULD I SERVE I T ? WHAT SHOULD I SERVE WITH I T ? For weekend houseguests As one of the offerings at a soup You've got a complete meal in a HOW FAR AHEAD CAN I MAKE I T ? The soup base can be refriger bowl. If you'd like to serve a first ated for up to 3 days. Return it to course before the soup (or another a simmer and add the ingredients For casual suppers and potlucks course after it), consider one of the for the individual soups, along with For Low-budget entertaining salads (pages 165-93). the peas, fresh herbs, and season For intergenerational gatherings Desserts: ing. party One of the cakes made from the ANY SHORTCUTS? recipe for Simple, Tender Although the soup will lack that rich, full-bodied broth, you can skip simmering the bones in the Yellow Cake (pages 257-61) Saucer-Size Oatmeal Cookies WHAT ABOUT LEFTOVERS? Although the peas and herbs will fade and the noodles swell, the soup will still be very satisfying for (page 238) broth. at least 3 or 4 days. Stick with the basic chicken noodle and chicken rice versions. 4 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R I've g i v e n y o u a f o r m u l a so y o u can m a k e a s i m p l e c h i c k e n n o o d l e soup or m o r e elaborate s o u p s — f r o m tortellini to pasta a n d white b e a n s —using the s a m e p r o p o r t i o n s a n d m e t h o d . T h e s e s o u p s a r e w a r m a n d c o m f o r t i n g e n o u g h to heal the sick, but they're also m e a n t for t i r e d cooks w h o n e e d to p r e p a r e a s o u l - s a t i s f y i n g m e a l i n a b o w l —quickly. Before a d d i n g the extras, y o u can split the b r o t h m i x t u r e a n d m a k e different k i n d s of s o u p . Just r e m e m b e r to halve the a d d e d i n g r e d i e n t s . For e v e n m o r e i m p r o m p t u gatherings, m a k e a store-bought broth doctored with A s i a n or southwestern flavorings, lay out an array of ingredients a n d condiments, and let guests finish m a k i n g the soups themselves to their liking. (See the recipes o n pages 8 and 9.) 2 quarts chicken broth 1 store-bought roast chicken, meat picked from bones and pulled into bite-size pieces, bones and skin reserved 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 large onions, cut into medium dice 2 large carrots, peeLed and cut into rounds or half rounds, depending on size 2 large celery stalks, sliced V* inch thick Additional ingredients from the soup of your choice (recipes follow) 1 V2 cup (5 ounces) frozen green peas cup chopped fresh herbs (see recipes) Salt and freshly ground black pepper B r i n g b r o t h a n d 4 c u p s w a t e r to a s i m m e r i n a large pot o v e r m e d i u m - h i g h h e a t . A d d r e s e r v e d c h i c k e n b o n e s a n d s k i n , r e d u c e h e a t to l o w , p a r t i a l l y c o v e r , a n d s i m m e r u n t i l b o n e s r e l e a s e t h e i r f l a v o r , 20 t o 3o minutes. Strain broth into a large bowl; discard b o n e s a n d skin. R e t u r n pot to b u r n e r set o n m e d i u m - h i g h . A d d oil, t h e n o n i o n s , c a r r o t s , a n d c e l e r y , a n d s a u t e u n t i l soft, 8 t o 1 0 m i n u t e s . A d d c h i c k e n a n d b r o t h a n d b r i n g to a s i m m e r . A d d i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m s o u p of c h o i c e . S i m m e r u n t i l t e n d e r , 1 0 to 2 0 m i n u t e s m o r e , d e p e n d i n g o n s t a r c h (if a n y ) . S t i r i n p e a s a n d h e r b s , a n d adjust s e a s o n i n g s , a d d i n g salt a n d p e p p e r to taste. S e r v e . 6 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R C L A S S I C C H I C K E N NOODLE SOUP C U R R I E D C H I C K E N SOUP WITH C H I C K P E A S AND 3 cups egg noodles 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves CAULIFLOWER 2 drained and rinsed Chopped fresh parsley 1 A 1 cup long-grain white rice 2 cups bite-size cauliflower florets teaspoon dried thyme leaves 2 tablespoons curry powder Chopped fresh cilantro Chopped fresh parsley CHICKEN TORTELLINI AND SOUP WITH ZUCCHINI C H I C K E N SOUP WITH PASTA A N D W H I T E BEANS TOMATOES 1 can (13.5 ounces) coconut milk (optional, but very good) C L A S S I C C H I C K E N A N D R I C E SOUP 3 cans (16 ounces each) chickpeas, package (9 ounces) refrigerated small cheese tortellini or 1 bag 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes 2 cans (16 ounces each) white beans, drained and rinsed (8V2 ounces) dried 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes 1 cup small pasta, such as ditalini 2 medium zucchini, cut into medium dice 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon dried basil Chopped fresh parsley Chopped fresh parsley Serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese. C H I C K E N SOUP WITH BLACK B E A N S A N D CORN 2 cans (16 ounces each) black beans, drained and rinsed 1 package (10 ounces) frozen corn 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes 1 jalapeho, seeded and minced 2 tablespoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons chili powder Chopped fresh cilantro Omit peas. Serve with tortilla chips, grated Monterey Jack cheese, and lime wedges. K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 7 CHICKEN SOUP WITH FLAVORINGS ASIAN T h i s soup gives y o u r guests a chance to a s s e m b l e t h e i r own m e a l in SERVES I S TO 20 a bowl, c h o o s i n g f r o m a w i d e a s s o r t m e n t of colorful p o s s i b i l i t i e s . S i n c e the i n g r e d i e n t s will be at r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e , it's i m p o r t a n t for the b r o t h to be p i p i n g hot. K e e p it s i m m e r i n g on the stove or a hot plate, if y o u ' v e got one. D o n ' t u s e large shallow soup bowls; they will m a k e the soup cool too quickly. Instead, use s m a l l deep b o w l s . S m a l l e r b o w l s also e n c o u r a g e guests to c o m e b a c k for a s e c o n d round, with a new set of flavoring i n g r e d i e n t s . After t h e y ' v e h e l p e d t h e m s e l v e s , ladle the s i m m e r i n g b r o t h into each b o w l . 6 quarts chicken broth 9 thin sLices fresh ginger 18 2-inch cilantro stems 9 scallions, trimmed to white part only 6 strips lime zest, removed with a vegetable peeler C o m b i n e all i n g r e d i e n t s i n a l a r g e pot, b r i n g to a s i m m e r , a n d s i m m e r t o b l e n d f l a v o r s , a b o u t 1 0 m i n u t e s . S t r a i n , r e t u r n to p o t , a n d i f n o t s e r v i n g i m m e d i a t e l y , c o v e r a n d k e e p w a r m ; r e t u r n to a s i m m e r b e f o r e serving. POSSIBLE ADDITIONS 2 cups shredded cooked chicken V4 pound bok choy, thinly sliced V2 pound cooked shrimp, cut into 2 packages (3 ounces each) ramen noodles, flavoring bite-size pieces packet discarded, noodles broken into bite-size V4 pound thinly sliced rare roast beef pieces V4 pound firm tofu, patted dry and cut into V2-inch cubes 3 ounces (2 cups) chow mein noodles 1 cup roasted unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped 1 bag (6 ounces) radishes, thinly sliced and cut into thin strips 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 1 handful each fresh basil leaves, fresh mint leaves, 6 ounces (about 2 cups) fresh bean sprouts, rinsed and drained and cilantro sprigs 1 lime, cut into 8 wedges V4 pound shiitake or white mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced 1 jalapeno, sliced into thin rounds Soy sauce 1 can (8 ounces) water chestnuts, Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce drained and rinsed 8 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R POSSIBLE ADDITIONS C H I C K E N SOUP WITH SOUTHWESTERN FLAVORINGS 2 cups shredded cooked chicken 6 quarts chicken broth V2 pound cooked shrimp, cut into bite-size pieces 18 2-inch cilantro stems 4 ounces pepper Jack cheese, grated 9 sun-dried tomato halves 1 jar (8 ounces) nacho cheese sauce 6 garlic cloves 6 strips lime zest, removed with a 1 bag (12 ounces) Fritos (original strip shape) 1 bag (12 ounces) tortilla chips 1 each red and green bell pepper, cut into thin vegetable peeler 1 strips and sauteed (see page 127) 1 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed jalapeho 1 bag (6 ounces) radishes, thinly sliced and cut into thin strips C o m b i n e all i n g r e d i e n t s in a l a r g e 1 cup chopped tomatoes p o t , b r i n g to a s i m m e r , a n d s i m m e r to b l e n d 1 can (4.5 ounces) chopped mild green chiles flavors, 1 can (2.25 ounces) sliced black olives pot, and a b o u t 1 0 m i n u t e s . S t r a i n , r e t u r n to if n o t serving immediately, a n d k e e p w a r m ; r e t u r n to a s i m m e r serving. cover before 1 can (16 ounces) pinto or black beans, drained 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 1 handful cilantro sprigs 1 lime, cut into 8 wedges 1 jalapeho pepper, minced 1 jar (8 ounces) green salsa 1 jar (8 ounces) red salsa 1 bottle each green and red hot pepper sauce K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 9 SAUSAGE AND WHITE BEAN SOUP Mostofusenjoyagoodpotofharnandbeansoup,butoftenwedon't SERVES 8 h a v e a h a m b o n e on h a n d o r the t i m e to s o a k a n d s i m m e r d r i e d b e a n s . M i n c e d prosciutto instantly t r a n s f o r m s c h i c k e n b r o t h into a h a m - f l a v o r e d soup b a s e . Italian sausage r e i n f o r c e s the p o r k flavor and m a k e s the soup satisfying and substantial. C a n n e d b e a n s w o r k as well as d r i e d o n e s , and m a s h i n g s o m e of t h e m t h i c k e n s the s o u p a n d gives it body. 2 IV2 tablespoons olive oil pounds Italian sausages 2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, minced 2 medium onions, cut into medium dice 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into medium dice 2 medium celery stalks, cut into medium dice WHEN SHOULD I SERVE I T ? HOW CAN I VARY I T ? Fall picnics or tailgate parties A falL or winter Lunch or casual supper — especially when time's short WHAT SHOULD I SERVE WITH I T ? Substitute smoked cooked sausage: kielbasa or chorizo. Other varieties of canned beans can be substituted as well. Breads: Moist, Savory Corn Muffins (page 226) or other interesting breads Salads: Carrot Salad with Cumin Vinaigrette (page 178), served before the soup 10 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R 1 teaspoon dried thyme Leaves 1 quart chicken broth 3 cans (16 ounces each) canned great northern or other white beans, undrained Heat oil in a large deep pot over m e d i u m - h i g h heat until hot. A d d sausages a n d cook, t u r n i n g o n c e or twice, until well b r o w n e d o n all sides, about 5 m i n u t e s ( s a u s a g e will not be fully c o o k e d ) . R e m o v e w i t h a slotted s p o o n ; w h e n c o o l e n o u g h to h a n d l e , cut i n t o V i - i n c h - t h i c k s l i c e s . M e a n w h i l e , a d d p r o s c i u t t o , o n i o n s , c a r r o t s , c e l e r y , a n d t h y m e to p o t a n d c o o k , s t i r r i n g f r e q u e n t l y , u n t i l v e g e t a b l e s a r e w e l l b r o w n e d , 8 to 10 minutes. A d d b r o t h a n d s a u s a g e . S m a s h I c a n of b e a n s w i t h a f o r k , t h e n a d d t o s o u p w i t h r e m a i n i n g b e a n s . C o v e r , a n d b r i n g to a s i m m e r , t h e n r e d u c e h e a t to m e d i u m - l o w a n d s i m m e r , p a r t i a l l y c o v e r e d , to b l e n d f l a v o r s , a b o u t 2,0 m i n u t e s . T u r n off h e a t a n d l e t s i t f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s t o let flavors develop. R e t u r n s o u p to a s i m m e r a n d s e r v e . Pear Halves with Blue Cheese and Toasted Nuts (page 166), served after the soup Cheeses and fall fruits, like apples, pears, and grapes, served after the soup Desserts: HOW FAR AHEAD CAN I MAKE I T ? Saucer-Size Oatmeal Cookies The cooled soup can be refriger ated up to 3 days. (page 238) Perfectly Simple Pumpkin WHAT ABOUT LEFTOVERS? Cheesecake (page 274) Leftover soup can be refrigerated Moist, Tender Spice Cake up to 3 days, and it freezes well. (page 259) K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 11 CHICKEN CHILI-RED OR W H I T E I f y o u want a chili that b r i n g s p e o p l e b a c k for s e c o n d s and always SERVES 1 2 m a k e s t h e m ask for the r e c i p e , try one of these. C h i c k e n gives chili the b r o a d e s t p o s s i b l e appeal w h e n y o u ' r e s e r v i n g a b i g g r o u p . B o t h the r e d a n d white v e r s i o n s h a v e the l o o k a n d flavor of serious chili, yet they are easy to p r e p a r e . The m e a t of r o t i s s e r i e c h i c k e n is perfect for t h i s d i s h — i t ' s deeply s e a s o n e d , t e n d e r , a n d easy to s h r e d , a n d u s i n g it shaves a couple h o u r s off the c o o k i n g p r o c e s s . A d d i n g garlic at the e n d m a k e s the chili pleasantly potent. If y o u ' d p r e f e r a c h u n k y b e e f or p o r k chili, c o n s i d e r Stew with S o u t h w e s t e r n F l a v o r i n g s (page 5 2 ) . Q U I C K RED C H I C K E N C H I L I T h i s m a y s e e m l i k e a lot of chili p o w d e r , but the chocolate r o u n d s out the flavor, resulting in a rich, f u l l - b o d i e d stew. Y o u can m a k e it i n a large pot instead of a r o a s t i n g pan, but allow extra t i m e for the o n i o n s to saute a n d the chili to s i m m e r . 2 store-bought roast chickens, meat picked from bones and pulled into bite-size pieces, bones and skin reserved 2 quarts chicken broth 6 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 large onions, cut into medium dice V3 cup chili powder IV2 tablespoons ground cumin IV2 tablespoons dried oregano 2 cans (28 ounces each) crushed tomatoes 2 cans (16 ounces each) pinto beans, drained and rinsed 6 medium garlic cloves, minced IV2 3 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped tablespoons cornmeal Accompaniments: See page 14 for suggestions K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 13 C o m b i n e chicken bones and skin, chicken broth, and 4 cups water in a l a r g e p o t a n d b r i n g to a b o i l o v e r m e d i u m - h i g h h e a t . R e d u c e h e a t to l o w , partially cover, and s i m m e r until b o n e s release their flavor, about 3o m i n utes. Strain broth into a large bowl; discard bones and skin. WHEN S H O U L D I SERVE I T ? Appetizers and At casual parties like Super BowL Sunday or other sports gatherings, Halloween, family reunions, or potlucks ousLy with a couple pinches Salads: Quesadillas for a Crowd (page cup fresh lime juice. 138) Salads: Sides: Chopped Caesar Salad (page 172) At large gatherings with lots of guests who don't eat red meat For a casual lunch or supper, especially when you have houseguests Boston Lettuce and Baby Spinach Salad (page 176) Moist, Savory Corn Muffins (page 226-27) Desserts: Tortilla Sundaes with Minted Accompaniments: Fried Corn Tortilla TriangLes (page Mango Salsa (page 241) 123-24) or 1 bag each tortilla Hot Fudge Brownie Sundaes and corn chips ANY SHORTCUTS? each salt and pepper and V4 (page 244) Shredded sharp cheese (two 12- Simmering the bones in the chicken broth gives the chili a more homemade flavor, but skip this step if you're short on time. Use ready-peeled garlic. HOW FAR AHEAD CAN I MAKE I T ? ounce bags) 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves 1 jar (12 ounces) sliced 1 bottle each red and green hot Substitute leftover turkey or pepper sauce cream rotisserie chicken. For the white chili, substitute canned white beans, such as great northern or canneLlini, for the days ahead. WHAT ABOUT LEFTOVERS? 1 container (24 ounces) sour chicken (7 to 8 cups) for the day before making the chili. The chili can be made up to 3 jalapehos HOW CAN I VARY I T ? You can pick and shred the chicken and simmer the broth the The chili freezes very well for 2 months. 2 cans (2.25 ounces each) sliced black olives 1 jar (8 ounces) red or green salsa (improve the flavor by hominy. stirring in 1 to 2 tablespoons WHAT SHOULD I SERVE WITH IT? Drinks: Instant Frozen Margaritas (page 287) Sparkling Coolers (page 283), juice) 1 lime, cut into wedges Guacamole: especially limeade Peel and seed 4 avocados, mash Beer 14 chopped fresh cilantro and squeezing in a little fresh lime with a fork, then season gener- • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R Heat oil i n a large r o a s t i n g p a n set over two b u r n e r s o n m e d i u m h i g h h e a t . A d d o n i o n s a n d s a u t e u n t i l s o f t , 4 to 5 m i n u t e s . A d d c h i l i p o w d e r , c u m i n , a n d o r e g a n o , r e d u c e h e a t to m e d i u m - l o w , a n d c o o k , s t i r r i n g , u n t i l s p i c e s a r e f r a g r a n t , 1 to % m i n u t e s . S t i r i n c h i c k e n , t o m a t o e s , a n d b r o t h a n d b r i n g t o a s i m m e r . R e d u c e h e a t to l o w a n d s i m m e r u n c o v e r e d , s t i r r i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y , to b l e n d flavors, 35 to 3 o m i n u t e s . Stir i n b e a n s , g a r l i c , a n d c h o c o l a t e a n d s i m m e r to b l e n d flavors, about 5 m i n u t e s . S p r i n k l e c o r n m e a l o v e r c h i l i , s t i r in, a n d s i m m e r to t h i c k e n c h i l i , 1 to 2, m i n u t e s l o n g e r . T u r n off h e a t , c o v e r , a n d l e t s t a n d f o r 5 minutes. L a d l e i n t o b o w l s a n d s e r v e w i t h a c c o m p a n i m e n t s of y o u r c h o i c e . Q U I C K WHITE C H I C K E N C H I L I WITH H O M I N Y T h e i r pale color a n d m i l d c o r n flavor m a k e h o m i n y a n d s h o e p e g c o r n the perfect r e p l a c e m e n t for pinto b e a n s i n this white v a r i a t i o n . H o m i n y (soft, chewy c o r n k e r n e l s f r o m w h i c h the hull a n d g e r m have b e e n r e m o v e d ) is found i n the c a n n e d - v e g e t a b l e aisle i n s u p e r m a r k e t s . F r o z e n white s h o e p e g c o r n is m o r e delicate than yellow c o r n . 2 store-bought roast chickens, meat picked from bones and pulled into bite-size pieces, bones and skin reserved 2 quarts chicken broth 6 tablespoons vegetable oil VA 4 V2 cup ground cumin teaspoons dried oregano teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 large onions, cut into medium dice 2 jars or cans (4.5 ounces each) diced mild green chiles 2 cans (20 ounces each) hominy, rinsed (about 6 cups) 6 medium garlic cloves, minced 2 cups frozen c o m , preferably white shoepeg Accompaniments: See page 14 for suggestions Combine chicken bones and skin, chicken broth, and 4 cups w a t e r i n a l a r g e pot a n d b r i n g to a b o i l o v e r m e d i u m - h i g h heat. R e d u c e K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S h e a t to l o w a n d s i m m e r u n t i l b o n e s r e l e a s e t h e i r flavor, about 3 o m i n u t e s . Strain broth into a large bowl; discard bones and skin. M e a n w h i l e , heat oil in a large roasting p a n set over two b u r n e r s (or a large pot) on m e d i u m - l o w heat. A d d cumin, oregano, and cayenne a n d cook, stirring, until s p i c e s sizzle a n d are fragrant, about 1 m i n u t e . A d d o n i o n s , i n c r e a s e h e a t to m e d i u m , a n d s a u t e u n t i l s o f t , 4, to 5 m i n u t e s . A d d c h i c k e n a n d c h i l e s a n d s t i r to c o a t . A d d 4 c u p s h o m i n y a n d a l l b u t 1 c u p b r o t h a n d b r i n g to a s i m m e r . R e d u c e h e a t t o l o w a n d s i m m e r , s t i r r i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y , to b l e n d f l a v o r s , 25 t o 3 o m i n u t e s . I n a f o o d p r o c e s s o r , p r o c e s s r e m a i n i n g 2, c u p s h o m i n y and r e s e r v e d 1 cup b r o t h until silky s m o o t h . Stir into s i m m e r i n g soup. Stir i n m i n c e d garlic a n d c o r n a n d s i m m e r to b l e n d flavors, about 5 minutes. T u r n off heat, c o v e r , a n d let s t a n d for 5 m i n u t e s . L a d l e i n t o b o w l s a n d s e r v e w i t h a c c o m p a n i m e n t s of y o u r c h o i c e . 16 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R OVEN - B A R B E C U E D PORK FOR S A N D W I C H E S OR C A R N I T A S I love p u l l e d p o r k , but I don't have t i m e to s p e n d all day s t a n d i n g at SERVES 12 TO 20 a charcoal grill, c o d d l i n g a p o r k s h o u l d e r to f a l l - o f f - t h e - b o n e t e n d e r n e s s . I've d i s c o v e r e d , h o w e v e r , that y o u can pat the s h o u l d e r w i t h a dry rub, shove it into the oven, a n d let it s l o w - r o a s t for 1 0 to 1 2 h o u r s overnight. T h e next m o r n i n g , the p o r k e m e r g e s t e n d e r a n d m a h o g a n y - c o l o r e d . Once the meat cools, pull it into b i t e - s i z e s h r e d s a n d m o i s t e n it w i t h the p a n d r i p p i n g s . T h e p u l l e d p o r k can be s p o o n e d onto b u n s for b a r b e c u e s a n d w i c h e s o r w r a p p e d i n c o r n tortillas for a carnita party. Few d i s h e s a l l o w y o u to s e r v e s u c h a large group with so little effort. A w h o l e p o r k s h o u l d e r c o n s i s t s of the front part of the leg, called the p i c n i c , a n d the butt, also k n o w n as B o s t o n butt roast o r B o s t o n - s t y l e butt. E i t h e r cut is good h e r e . If c h o o s i n g the p i c n i c , h o w e v e r , pull off the t h i c k r i n d b e f o r e b r u s h i n g the m e a t with m u s tard, u s i n g a s h a r p k n i f e to facilitate the p r o c e s s . Once the roast r e a c h e s 1 6 5 d e g r e e s , y o u can i n c r e a s e the o v e n t e m p e r a t u r e to 3 ^ 5 d e g r e e s to s p e e d up the c o o k i n g p r o c e s s if y o u l i k e . 3 tablespoons packed Light or dark brown sugar 3 tablespoons paprika lVz teaspoons salt, plus more for sprinkling lVz tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper IV2 tablespoons garlic powder 1 V2 bone-in pork shoulder butt roast or fresh picnic shoulder ( 8 - 9 pounds) cup Dijon mustard A d j u s t o v e n r a c k to l o w e s t p o s i t i o n a n d h e a t o v e n to 2 5 0 d e g r e e s . M i x b r o w n sugar, p a p r i k a , salt, p e p p e r , a n d garlic p o w d e r i n a s m a l l b o w l . Pat roast dry a n d place o n a r a c k set o v e r a f o i l - l i n e d s h a l l o w b a k i n g s h e e t . L i g h t l y s p r i n k l e t o p a n d s i d e s of r o a s t w i t h s a l t , b r u s h w i t h half the mustard, a n d s p r i n k l e w i t h half the spice rub. Carefully t u r n roast o v e r . S p r i n k l e w i t h a little salt, b r u s h w i t h r e m a i n i n g m u s t a r d , a n d s p r i n kle with r e m a i n i n g spice rub. K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 17 R o a s t u n t i l a m e a t t h e r m o m e t e r r e g i s t e r s 1 7 0 d e g r e e s , 9 to 1 1 h o u r s , d e p e n d i n g o n s i z e . T r a n s f e r p o r k to a p l a t t e r a n d let c o o l e n o u g h to handle, about 1 hour. M e a n w h i l e , if m a k i n g s a n d w i c h e s o r if p o r k n e e d s a l i t t l e m o r e m o i s t u r e , p o u r off a n y fat a n d s c r a p e p a n d r i p p i n g s i n t o a s m a l l s a u c e p a n , a d d 1 c u p w a t e r , a n d b r i n g to a s i m m e r . R e m o v e f r o m h e a t . Gut r o a s t i n t o 1 - to 2 - i n c h c h u n k s a n d s h r e d m e a t i n t o a l a r g e b o w l . A d d e n o u g h p a n d r i p p i n g s to m o i s t e n p o r k a n d s t i r to c o m b i n e . WHEN SHOULD I SERVE I T ? For any large casual event — enough chicken broth to equal 1 cup. Heat the shredded chicken, Super Bowl party, pre- or post- 1 A to 2 cups of your favorite bar sports meals, family reunions becue sauce, and chicken broth in ANY SHORTCUTS? Roast 2 smaller pork shoulder roasts rather than one big one. You'll save a couple of hours of roasting and cooling time. Buy a good spice rub instead of making your own. 3 Add a couple tablespoons of cumin to the spice rub if you like — especially if you're making carnitas. Make Pulled Chicken Barbecue Sandwiches instead. For about 15 sandwiches, to serve 10 people, pick and shred the meat from 2 to Beans (page 218) For carnitas, low heat until hot. Serve on sand Fresh Corn Salad with Cabbage and Bell Peppers (page 184), wich buns. doubled WHAT S H O U L D I SERVE WITH I T ? Drinks: Distinctive bottled beers and sodas (cream and black cherry Sparkling Coolers (page 283), lemonade, and iced tea Desserts: Hot Fudge Brownie Sundaes (page 244) S'more Bars (page 236) HOW FAR AHEAD CAN I MAKE I T ? Roast and shred the pork up to 3 days ahead; refrigerate. Reheat in Appetizers: Peanuts in the shell a roasting pan set over two burners Curried Popcorn (page 116) over low heat, adding a little water Perfect Deviled Eggs (page 120) if necessary. For carnitas, Quesadillas for a WHAT ABOUT LEFTOVERS? Crowd (page 138) Sides and Leftovers can be packaged in Salads: freezer bags and frozen for up to 3 rotisserie or roast chickens (see For barbecue sandwiches, Perfect Roast Chicken, page 38) to Slaw with Creamy American yield 10 to 12 cups shredded meat. and Bell Peppers (page 184) Quick Southern-Style Baked a large covered pot over medium- soda, root or birch beer) or HOW CAN I VARY IT? Fresh Corn Salad with Cabbage 3 months. Dressing (page 181) Reserve the chicken juices, and add K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 19 PULLED PORK S A N D W I C H E S SERVES 1 8 TO 20 Oven-Barbecued Pork (page 17) 1 cup barbecue sauce of your choice, plus (optional) extra for serving 18-20 large sandwich buns Heat pulled p o r k and barbecue sauce in a large covered pot over l o w h e a t , s t i r r i n g f r e q u e n t l y . S e r v e w i t h b u n s a n d e x t r a b a r b e c u e s a u c e , if desired. CARNITAS SERVES 1 2 Oven-Barbecued Pork (page 17) 24 corn tortilLas Slaw with Salsa Verde Dressing or Orange Cumin Dressing (page 1 8 1 ) , doubled Scant 3 cups Guacamole (page 14) 1 container (24 ounces) sour cream T w e n t y to 3 o m i n u t e s b e f o r e s e r v i n g , adjust o v e n r a c k to m i d d l e p o s i t i o n a n d h e a t o v e n to 3 5 0 d e g r e e s . Slowly heat pulled p o r k in a roasting p a n set over two burners o v e r l o w heat, s t i r r i n g frequently, a d d i n g a little w a t e r if n e c e s s a r y . M e a n w h i l e , l a y a d a m p p a p e r t o w e l o n a 2 4 , - b y - i 8 - i n c h p i e c e of h e a v y - d u t y f o i l . S e t 2 s t a c k s of 4 c o r n t o r t i l l a s e a c h s i d e b y s i d e o n t o w e l . C o v e r w i t h a n o t h e r d a m p p a p e r t o w e l . S e a l f o i l c o m p l e t e l y . M a k e 2, m o r e foil p a c k e t s . B a k e until steamy, about 5 m i n u t e s . P u l l t o r t i l l a s f r o m o v e n a s n e e d e d , a n d let g u e s t s fill t h e m w i t h p o r k , slaw, g u a c a m o l e , a n d s o u r c r e a m , as they like. 20 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R GROWN-UP SLOPPY JOES I m a k e t h e s e s l o p p y j o e s , along with a salad, for family r e u n i o n s . A f t e r the guests arrive i n the afternoon, a t e a m of us can put t o B R MAKES ABOUT 3 0 S A N D W I C H E ! SERVES 20 g e t h e r d i n n e r for forty p e o p l e i n about half a n h o u r . E v e r y o n e loves the m e a l — t o d d l e r s and t e e n c o u s i n s , m i d d l e - a g e d s i b l i n g s , e v e n G r a n d p a . T h o s e who are w a t c h i n g c a r b o h y d r a t e s s k i p the b u n s . One of my n e p h e w s says h e ' s n e v e r had s l o p p y j o e s as good as these. Va cup vegetable oil 5 medium-large onions, chopped 5 pounds lean ground beef or turkey 4 cups (1 quart) ketchup IV4 cups Dijon mustard Va cup soy sauce V4 cup Worcestershire sauce 1 2 h 1 30 tablespoon hot pepper sauce cup packed light or dark brown sugar tablespoon garlic powder sandwich buns WHEN SHOULD I SERVE I T ? ANY SHORTCUTS? For casual suppers, including family reunions For kids' and teen parties HOW FAR AHEAD CAN I MAKE I T ? If you use a disposable roasting The sloppy joe mixture can be pan, cleanup is a breeze. Make sure made up to 3 days ahead. Reheat slowly in a roasting pan set over to reduce heat to medium. two burners, stirring frequently and For a quick main course that can be made in advance or at the last adding water if necessary to keep minute it from burning. 22 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R Heat oil i n a large roasting p a n o v e r two b u r n e r s o n m e d i u m h i g h heat. A d d o n i o n s a n d cook, s t i r r i n g , u n t i l t e n d e r , 5 to 7 m i n u t e s . A d d g r o u n d m e a t a n d cook, s t i r r i n g f r e q u e n t l y to b r e a k up l a r g e c l u m p s , u n t i l n o l o n g e r p i n k . D r a i n o r s p o o n off a n y e x c e s s fat. Mix remaining ingredients, except buns, in a m e d i u m bowl and s t i r t h e m i n t o m e a t . C o n t i n u e to c o o k , s t i r r i n g f r e q u e n t l y , u n t i l m i x t u r e i s t h i c k , 5 to 8 m i n u t e s . T o w a r m s a n d w i c h b u n s , h e a t o v e n to 3 ^ 5 d e g r e e s . P l a c e 1 b u n per p e r s o n in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake until buns are w a r m t h r o u g h o u t , 8 to 1 0 m i n u t e s . W a r m m o r e as n e e d e d . S p o o n a p o r t i o n of m e a t o n t o e a c h b u n a n d s e r v e . WHAT SHOULD I SERVE WITH I T ? Drinks: Beer and soda Appetizers: Baskets of chips and pretzels Salads: WHAT ABOUT LEFTOVERS? Desserts: Hot Fudge Brownie Sundaes The sloppy joe mixture freezes well for 1 month. Thaw and then (page 244) reheat as directed above. S'more Bars (page 236) Saucer-Size Oatmeal Cookies (page 238) Any of the salads (pages 165-93) For a large crowd, set up a salad bar. K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 23 BAKE-AHEAD PIZZA FOR A CROWD T h e w o r d "party" just naturally follows pizza. M a k i n g it f r o m scratch for MAKES 4 PIZZAS; a crowd is difficult, though. T h e p r o b l e m is oven space —the crust has to be b a k e d o n the b o t t o m rack so it will b r o w n , w h i c h m e a n s y o u have to b a k e the pizzas one at a t i m e . I've found two t r i c k s that m a k e it p o s s i b l e to s e r v e pizza for a c r o w d . First, change the s h a p e . If y o u f o r m the pizzas into long r e c tangles, y o u can b a k e two at a t i m e . T h e s m a l l e r sizes of dough are e a s i e r to m a n a g e than a large one, a n d the centers will crisp up b e t ter. Y o u can also sauce the pizzas and b a k e t h e m s e v e r a l hours ahead. T h e n , shortly before s e r v i n g , top t h e m (or b e t t e r yet, let guests do it), and reheat t h e m at the last m i n u t e i n a l o w - t e m p e r a t u r e o v e n to melt the c h e e s e a n d r e c r i s p the crust. Like good F r e n c h a n d Italian b r e a d , a good pizza crust is m a d e with b r e a d flour, w h i c h is available in health food stores a n d m a n y s u p e r m a r k e t s . If y o u use b l e a c h e d a l l - p u r p o s e flour, the crust will be tough a n d less c r i s p . Y o u can, h o w e v e r , substitute a h i g h e r p r o t e i n u n b l e a c h e d a l l - p u r p o s e flour, s u c h as K i n g A r t h u r . WHEN SHOULD I SERVE I T ? direct heat of the rack. For a casual party, especially for young people pizza dough, buy it. Many grocery As an appetizer ANY HOW section. SHORTCUTS? take too many shortcuts, some thing very special will turn ordi Although grating fresh Parmesan cheese (preferably ParmigianoReggiano) makes a remarkable dif ference in flavor, you can use a nary. The dough will rise more quickly in an oven that's been preheated to about 100 degrees, then turned off. Set the covered bowl of dough on the oven rack with a dish towel beneath to protect it from the • P E R F E C T nice, and more festive, to have a second type. stores sell it in the refrigerated Here are some ideas, but if you 24 hosting a pizza party, however, it's If you don't have time to make R E C I P E S good packaged grated cheese. Use packaged grated mozzarella cheese. If you like barbecue chicken or ham and pineapple, for example, on your pizza, follow the dough and sauce recipes, then create your own toppings. WHAT SHOULD I SERVE WITH I T ? Drinks: Use as many no-prep toppings as Make just one sauce. If you're H A V I N G Zippy red wines, such as Zinfandel or Chianti possible (see page 28). F O R CAN I VARY I T ? P E O P L E Beer and soda O V E R 1 V« package ( 2 A teaspoons) active dry yeast a cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 cups bread flour 2 teaspoons salt Red and/or White Sauce for Pizza (recipes follow) Toppings of choice (see page 28) 1 cup (4 ounces) grated part-skim mozzarella (or other soft cheese, such as Fontina or even pepper Jack; crumbled feta is nice too) V2 cup grated Parmesan cheese Cornmeal for dusting pan P o u r V4 c u p w a r m t a p w a t e r i n t o a ? - c u p P y r e x m e a s u r i n g c u p o r a s m a l l bowl. S p r i n k l e i n y e a s t a n d let s t a n d until y e a s t s w e l l s , about 5 m i n u t e s . A d d c o o l t a p w a t e r to t h e i V 2 - c u p l i n e (1V4 c u p s w a t e r if u s i n g b o w l ) , t h e n a d d o l i v e o i l t o t h e i / i - c u p l i n e (V4 c u p o i l if u s i n g b o w l ) , a n d 3 w h i s k to m i x . P o u r f l o u r a n d s a l t i n a f o o d p r o c e s s o r a n d p u l s e to m i x . A d d y e a s t m i x t u r e a n d p r o c e s s to f o r m a soft, s u p p l e , d o u g h b a l l ; p u l s e in a n o t h e r t a b l e s p o o n o r s o of w a t e r if d o u g h f e e l s t i g h t , l i k e c l a y . P r o c e s s u n t i l s m o o t h , 2,0 t o 3 o s e c o n d s l o n g e r . Appetizers: HOW FAR AHEAD CAN I MAKE I T ? um heat. While the skillet heats, Keep it simple. Set out a dish of The white sauce can be made up roasted pistachios and serve a to 3 days ahead; since the tomato to take the chill off (not too much, green salad before or with the sauce is so easy, throw it together or you'll end up toughening the pizza. at the last minute. crust). Set the slices in a single Salads: Chopped Caesar Salad (page 172) Mixed Green Salad with Fresh Herbs (page 168) The sauced pizzas can be baked up to 2 hours before topping. Mascarpone Sauce (page 250) Sorbet- or Ice Cream-Filled Crisp Cinnamon Cups (page 246) S'more Bars (page 236) layer in the skillet and heat until the bottom crisps up and the pizza Most of the topping ingredients is heated through. You can heat can be prepared 1 to 2 days ahead. larger quantities of leftovers in a low-temperature oven, setting the Desserts: Frozen Tiramisu with Coffee microwave the pizzas just enough WHAT ABOUT LEFTOVERS? If you heat it up right, pizza is almost as good the second time around. To reheat a few slices, set slices directly on an oven rack. Toss leftover pizza sauce with pasta or spoon over polenta. a large skillet or griddle over medi K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 25 T u r n d o u g h out o n t o a l i g h t l y f l o u r e d w o r k s u r f a c e a n d k n e a d f o r a f e w s e c o n d s to f o r m a b a l l . P l a c e i n a l a r g e b o w l c o a t e d w i t h c o o k i n g s p r a y . C o v e r w i t h plastic w r a p a n d let s t a n d i n a w a r m p l a c e u n t i l d o u b l e d i n s i z e , 1V2 to 2 h o u r s . M e a n w h i l e , m a k e sauce(s), p r e p a r e toppings, and grate cheese. A b o u t 3 o m i n u t e s b e f o r e b a k i n g , a d j u s t o v e n r a c k to l o w e s t p o s i t i o n a n d h e a t o v e n t o 4 5 0 d e g r e e s . L i g h t l y s p r i n k l e c o r n m e a l o n t o e a c h of t w o p a r c h m e n t - l i n e d c o o k i e s h e e t s , at l e a s t 1 8 b y 12 i n c h e s . ( D o n o t u s e insulated cookie sheets, w h i c h would prevent crusts f r o m crisping.) W i t h o u t p u n c h i n g it d o w n , t u r n d o u g h o n t o a l i g h t l y f l o u r e d s u r f a c e . ( I t ' s f i n e if d o u g h d e f l a t e s ; j u s t d o n ' t w o r k o r k n e a d it, b e c a u s e t h a t will m a k e stretching m o r e difficult.) Quarter dough with a dough s c r a p e r or sharp knife. W o r k i n g w i t h 1 p o r t i o n of d o u g h at a t i m e , s t r e t c h e a c h i n t o a rough i 8 - b y - 5 " i n c h rectangle. (Don't sweat the shape. Y o u just want 2 p i z z a s p e r s h e e t . ) T r a n s f e r t o a p r e p a r e d p a n ; s p r e a d w i t h V2 c u p s a u c e . R e p e a t w i t h a n o t h e r p o r t i o n of d o u g h , a n d b a k e p i z z a s u n t i l b o t t o m s a r e a crisp golden brown, about 15 minutes. Stretch and sauce r e m a i n i n g 2 p o r t i o n s p i z z a d o u g h , t h e n b a k e w h e n f i r s t p i z z a s c o m e o u t of o v e n . S e t a s i d e at r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e . W h e n r e a d y to s e r v e , a d j u s t o v e n r a c k s to m i d d l e a n d t o p p o s i t i o n s a n d p r e h e a t o v e n to 3^5 d e g r e e s . Top pizzas as desired, s p r i n k l e with mozzarella, and b a k e direct ly o n o v e n r a c k s u n t i l c r i s p a n d hot, 7 to 1 0 m i n u t e s . T r a n s f e r to a cutting b o a r d , s p r i n k l e w i t h P a r m e s a n c h e e s e , a n d b r i n g to t h e t a b l e . C u t w i t h kitchen shears and serve. RED SAUCE FOR P I Z Z A COOKED RED SAUCE You can also cook the tomato sauce. Add olive oil and M A K E S ABOUT 2 CUPS (ENOUGH FOR 4 P I Z Z A S ) garlic to a 10-inch skillet and cook until garlic 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 Large garlic cloves, minced 1 can (16 ounces) crushed tomatoes starts to sizzle. Add tomatoes and salt and bring to a boil, then simmer to blend flavors, about 10 min utes. Spread on pizza. Salt to taste M i x all i n g r e d i e n t s together and s p r e a d o n pizza. K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 27 WHITE SAUCE FOR P I Z Z A VEGETABLE TOPPINGS (1 POUND PER 4 P I Z Z A S ) : Vegetables that need to be sauteed: M A K E S ABOUT 2 CUPS (ENOUGH FOR 4 P I Z Z A S ) Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skilLet over mediumIV4 3 high heat. When oil starts to shimmer, add one of cups 2 % or whoLe milk the following vegetables and a sprinkling of salt. cup chicken broth or vegetable broth A Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 5 minutes. 2 large garlic cloves, minced Onions, halved and thinLy sliced 2 tablespoons butter Bell peppers, stem removed, cored, seeded, then thinly 3 tablespoons alL-purpose flour sliced into 'A-inch-thick strips Mushrooms, sliced V4 inch thick (or buy packaged cup grated Parmesan cheese VA sliced) Salt V e g e t a b l e s that need to be s t e a m - s a u t e e d : Place one of the following prepared vegetables, V3 cup 1-quart C o m b i n e milk, broth, and garlic in a water (omit water if using spinach), a scant V2 tea Pyrex measuring spoon salt, and 2 teaspoons olive oil in a deep skil cup or a micro let or Dutch oven. Cover and steam over high heat wave-safe bowl (or a m e d i u m saucepan) and microwave (or saucepan) slowly heat until v e r y hot in and a until vegetables are bright colored and just tender, 3 medium steamy. to 4 minutes. Turn out onto a plate to cool. Let Broccoli, florets cut into bite-size pieces; stalks peeled and cut into V4-inch-thick coins s t a n d f o r 5 m i n u t e s to s o f t e n g a r l i c . Asparagus (medium-thick), tough end of stalks Meanwhile, melt butter in a large saucepan over m e d i u m - h i g h heat. b u t t e r s t a r t s to s i z z l e , w h i s k i n trimmed, spears cut into 1-inch lengths When flour. Add Spinach (buy triple-washed), stems removed Vegetables that need to be broiled: Adjust oven rack to highest position and preheat m i l k m i x t u r e a l l at o n c e , t h e n w h i s k u n t i l broiler. Lightly brush both sides of vegetables with smooth. Cook until thick and bubbly (since oil and sprinkle with salt. Broil, turning once, until m i l k is hot, this will take only a m i n u t e ) . Stir spotty brown on each side, 7 to 10 minutes. i n c h e e s e a n d s e a s o n w i t h salt. P o u r m i x t u r e Zucchini or yellow squash, cut into V3-inch-thick rounds b a c k into m e a s u r i n g cup or b o w l and c o v e r EggpLant, cut into V3-inch-thick rounds with plastic wrap, placed directly on surface of s a u c e , f o r u p to 2 h o u r s , o r u n t i l r e a d y to MEAT TOPPINGS (1 POUND PER 4 P I Z Z A S ) : u s e . S p r e a d o n pizza. Ground sausage, beef, or turkey, browned Bacon, cut into V2-inch-wide pieces and cooked until crisp POSSIBLE PIZZA TOPPINGS SIMPLE TOPPINGS: Canned chopped clams — Vz cup drained clams per pizza (from a 6V2-ounce can) Sliced pepperoni or prosciutto Canadian bacon or ham, cut into small dice Your favorite olives, pitted Canned artichokes, drained, quartered, and tossed with a littLe extra-virgin olive oil Jarred roast peppers Jarred pesto 28 • P E R F E C T R E C I P E S F O R H A V I N G P E O P L E O V E R BUTTERMILK-HONEY CHICKEN FINGERS FRIED C h i c k e n fingers often o v e r c o o k b e f o r e they b r o w n . To solve the SERVES 8 p r o b l e m , I add a little h o n e y to the b u t t e r m i l k bath, w h i c h m a k e s t h e m b r o w n m o r e quickly, a n d they t u r n out juicy. 4 teaspoons honey Salt V2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Flavoring of choice (pages 29 and 31) IV3 cups buttermilk 2V2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 6 large), each cut crosswise into 8 or 9 strips 1 quart oil (vegetable, canoLa, peanut, or corn) 3 cups all-purpose flour In a large bowl or shallow b a k i n g dish, m i x honey, 1 teaspoon salt, p e p p e r , a n d f l a v o r i n g into b u t t e r m i l k . A d d c h i c k e n a n d t u r n to coat. P r e h e a t o v e n to 3 0 0 d e g r e e s . H e a t o i l i n a l a r g e ( 1 2 - i n c h ) s k i l l e t o v e r h i g h h e a t to 3 7 5 d e g r e e s . M e a n w h i l e , m i x flour and 1 t a b l e s p o o n salt i n a d o u b l e d p a p e r b a g . D r o p a b o u t 8 c h i c k e n s t r i p s i n t o f l o u r , c l o s e b a g , a n d s h a k e to coat c h i c k e n . Place c h i c k e n p i e c e s o n a w i r e r a c k set o v e r a b a k i n g s h e e t (or n e w s p a p e r for easy cleanup). Repeat with r e m a i n i n g chicken. W o r k i n g i n 4 b a t c h e s , d r o p c h i c k e n p i e c e s i n t o h o t o i l a n d fry u n t i l g o l d e n b r o w n , t u r n i n g if n e c e s s a r y t o e n s u r e e v e n b r o w n i n g , a b o u t 3 m i n u t e s . T r a n s f e r to a n o t h e r w i r e r a c k s e t o v e r a b a k i n g s h e e t to d r a i n . K e e p first batches w a r m i n o v e n w h i l e y o u cook r e m a i n i n g chicken, r e t u r n i n g oil to 3^5 d e g r e e s after e a c h b a t c h . C L A S S I C FLAVORING 1 teaspoon garlic powder M A R Y L A N D - S T Y L E FLAVORING 1 tablespoon Old Bay or other Marylandstyle spice blend K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 29 C U M I N FLAVORING CURRY FLAVORING 1 tablespoon curry powder WHEN SHOULD I SERVE I T ? 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder parsley and sliced scallion greens. Mixed Green Salad with Fresh For gatherings of kids and adults Serve with curry chutney dipping when you're comfortable enough to sauce (1 cup Major Grey chutney, fry in front of guests VA cup rice wine vinegar, and 2 Parmesan and Garlic For children's and teen parties teaspoons curry powder, heated Vinaigrette (page 170) At a picnic (served at room tem and served warm, or served at room perature) As a substantial hors d'oeuvre before a light main course ANY SHORTCUTS? Buy chicken already cut into strips. temperature). Sprinkle hot chicken with a big handful of chopped fresh herbs — basil, chives, and parsley. Serve with lemon wedges, which guests can squeeze over the chicken. Sprinkle hot chicken generously with toasted sesame seeds and sliced scallion greens. Serve with hoisin dipping sauce (1 cup hoisin sauce, V4 cup rice wine vinegar, and 2 tablespoons soy sauce). Sprinkle hot chicken generously with chopped peanuts and sliced scallion greens. Serve with your favorite Thai peanut sauce. Carrot Salad with Cumin Sides: with chopped fresh cilantro and Any of the slaws (pages 180-81) sliced scaLlion greens. Serve with Creamy Baked Macaroni and lime wedges, which guests can squeeze over chicken, and your Cheese (page 32) Broiled or Grilled Asparagus (page 195) Slow-Roasted Plum Tomatoes HOW CAN I VARY IT? nishes: Baby Spinach Salad with Shaved Vinaigrette (page 178) Sprinkle hot chicken generously favorite jarred salsa or salsa verde. Choose from five different gar Herbs (page 168) WHAT S H O U L D I SERVE WITH I T ? Drinks: A playful cocktail — A Pitcher of Mojitos (page 290), Instant Frozen Margaritas (page 287), or Cosmopolitans by the Pitcher (page 288) with Pesto-Flavored Crumbs (page 204) Desserts: Hot Fudge Brownie Sundaes (page 244) S'more Bars (page 236) Saucer-Size Oatmeal Cookies A crisp, fruity white wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc Iced tea and lemonade (page 238) HOW FAR AHEAD CAN I MAKE I T ? The chicken can soak overnight Appetizers: Curried Popcorn (page 116) in the buttermilk. Perfect Deviled Eggs (page 120) WHAT ABOUT LEFTOVERS? First Courses and Salads: Year-Round Classic Gazpacho (page 162) Boston Lettuce and Baby Spinach Toss leftover warmed chicken fingers with mixed greens for a satisfying lunch salad. Salad (page 176) Sprinkle hot chicken generously with chopped fresh cilantro or K I T C H E N G A T H E R I N G S • 31