South CoaSt, the Wild CoaSt

ROUTE 66 Road Trip
By Kimber Williams
South Coast,
the Wild Coast:
The Untamed Splendor of Big Sur
There was a time when the 90-mile stretch of
rugged California coastline that spills into the
sea between Carmel and San Simeon was
simply called “El Sur Grande,” The Big South
— a vague label for a vast, untamed land.
Today, that essential wildness remains, an
unspoiled quality that lures campers, hikers
and those who embrace nature, both in its
simplicity and its raw, vivid splendor.
Scenic Route
Vol. 2 / No. 6
“This is the California that men dreamed of years ago,this is
the Pacific that Balboa looked out on from the peak of Darien,
this is the face of the earth as the Creator intended it to look.”
—Henry Miller, “Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch”
The rugged contours and pristine beauty of
California’s Big Sur coastline draw millions of
visitors every year, from birdwatchers and
beachcombers to hikers, rockhounds and surfers. And
Highway One offers plenty of turnouts to pause and
take in the scenic views from your RV.
S
tepping outside their tiny Aliner
Sportliner trailer, Jean Doyle and Doug
Patten absorbed the magnificent, massive
view: acres of ocean, as far as the eye
could see, towering mountains, and a frothy ribbon
of tumbling surf.
No complaints, laughed the Santa Cruz, Calif.,
couple. Just another fine morning in Big Sur.
“It’s really something, isn’t it,” said Doug Patten,
nodding at the spectacular view, available with virtually no obstructions at Kirk Creek Campground,
which perches like a grassy nest upon a cliff about
100 feet above the Pacific Ocean just off California’s
Highway 1.
Though the campground’s 34 sites are unsheltered
and austere — no RV hookups here — the view and
access to great hiking, surfing, and ocean fishing go
a long way toward making up for that, agree Patten
and Doyle.
And of course there’s that view. That breathtaking,
constant view.
“It’s great to wake up and see the water right
there,” Patten admitted. “We like to come here
because it’s close — a two-hour drive. Mostly, we’ll
just hang out and relax, maybe do a little hiking.”
Welcome to Big Sur, a place where hanging out
is an art form and relaxing just may be a required
pasttime. In a land where the bigger-than-life views
never seem to stop, simply sitting and gazing are
perfectly acceptable.
Perhaps it’s the mesmerizing intersection between
sand and surf. Maybe it’s the generally mild climate,
with sun-baked hills and cool ocean breezes. Or it
may just be the sheer scale of things: softly pleated
hillsides set against sweeping blue water. Add to
that a laid-back pace and a lovely measure of silence
— broken only by the steady hiss of distant surf, the
ever-present sound of the pulsing sea. It all adds up to
one fact: Big Sur is a natural sanctuary.
Today, the pristine simplicity of the place remains
— thankfully — largely undisturbed. About twothirds of the Big Sur coastal zone is in public
ownership. Yet despite the blissful absence of
development, this destination can prove surprisingly
accommodating to RVers, offering a wide choice of
public and private camping options — the region
draws about 4.5 million visitors annually. Whether
you’re just passing through along the creeping contours of Highway 1 or pulling into one of the many
campgrounds to stay awhile, Big Sur beckons you
to linger just a little longer.
South from Monterey
There is no precise boundary to Big Sur. No
road signs to tell you exactly when you’re there,
or when you’re not. But the topography is a dead
giveaway — towns disappear and the land opens to
dramatic dimensions.
Visiting in a trailer or RV requires some consideration. Are you uncomfortable with heights? Do you
have a tendency to be carsick on curvy roads? Are
you a “pedal-to-the-metal” driver who just likes to get
Scenic Route
Vol. 2 / No. 6
Pfeiffer Beach can be tricky to find, but with its dramatic rock formations, soft
sand and crashing waves, this popular beach is well worth the effort to get there.
there on schedule and could care less
about the scenery?
Answer “yes” to any of the above
questions and you might want to
rethink the Big Sur experience.
But if you welcome world-class
views — from any height — enjoy
the rhythm of rounding a curve,
and don’t mind indulging in lots
of scenic pullouts, this is the place
for you.
As far as Robert Nanfelt is
concerned, following Highway 1
through Big Sur is a driver’s delight
— even if it means piloting a 45foot Holiday Rambler Navigator
motorhome while pulling along a
Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Yet, he acknowledges, it might
not be for everyone.
“If somebody is leery of this
road, then try going south to north,
so you won’t find yourself right
out there against the outer edge of
the cliffs,” suggested Nanfelt, who
makes his home in Massachussetts
when he’s not RVing.
“Don’t get stupid and try to go 45
mph around the curves,” he advised.
“Also, try to pull out for the cars that
can build up behind you because
they’ll make you a nervous wreck.”
Nanfelt has made the trek up the
Big Sur Coastline at least four times
and never tires of it. On a recent trip,
he tackled it north to south — an
itinerary that will take you from the
charms of Monterey and Carmel,
among the region’s most populated
areas, southward to a landscape of
open beauty. “I really don’t think you
can take a bad photo here,” joked
Scenic Route
Vol. 2 / No. 6
Darlene Bavis, of New Brunswick,
Canada, who was traveling with
Nanfelt and snapping pictures to her
heart’s content.
Monterey County makes an
excellent starting point — a chance
to stock up on provisions, since Big
Sur markets are small and widely
scattered. Check out a few “can’t
miss” attractions while you’re in the
neighborhood.
Get your bearings for a coastal adventure at the Monterey Bay
Aquarium, featuring a million-gallon indoor ocean. From a three-story
kelp forest to sharks, sea otters, jellyfish and penguin exhibits, it’s a
terrific introduction to the nearby
undersea world. While there, literary buffs and Steinbeck fans should
check out Fisherman’s Wharf and
the infamous Cannery Row, now
restored to commercial vigor through
tourism.
Moving south through Carmel,
be sure to make time to explore Point
Lobos State Reserve — one of the
richest marine habitats in California.
Though it’s a day-use area, the beautiful landscape of headlands, rocky
cliffs, coves and rolling meadows
offer easy hiking trails — many
parallel the coastline — and a good
opportunity to stretch your legs and
clear your mind.
Wildlife-viewing is rampant
here. Watch seals basking on rocks,
sea otters frolicking in the surf,
pelicans diving for breakfast, and
whales breeching offshore. Divers
will find an underwater world of
vibrant color. The entrance is located
about three miles south of Carmel
off Highway 1.
Camping galore
Moving out of Carmel, the skies
seem to open to the sea. Great aprons
of white sand beaches fringe the
ocean, and massive rocky shoulders
jut against the pounding tide.
RVers are lucky. Highway 1 offers
an abundance of scenic turnouts — a
chance to pull off, study maps, take
a picture, stretch, or just commune
with the scenery.
About two-thirds of the Big Sur coastline remains in public ownership.
Yet, despite the lack of development, the region can prove surprisingly
accommodating to RVs.
Don’t Forget:
• Pack plenty of layers of clothing; warm, clear days can be
followed by cool, brisk nights.
• Binoculars, great for scanning the water for seals, sea lions,
otters and especially whales in winter months.
• Your camera, since Highway 1 offers an abundance of scenic
turnouts for snapping the perfect picture.
• Good hiking shoes; state parks hold some terrific trails,
and some beaches are accessed through a long hike.
• Load up on supplies at home, as stores are few and far between.
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040105
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Where To Stay:
Jean Doyle and Doug Patten, of Santa Cruz, enjoy the sweeping ocean view from
Kirk Creek Campground, which is situated on a cliff overlooking the Big Sur coast.
Take the time to stop, again and
again. Check out the 700-foot-span
of Bixby Creek Bridge, a local landmark and one of the most beautiful
bridges along Big Sur’s Highway 1.
As you spin south, you’ll likely see
Point Sur Lighthouse, about oneforth mile north of the Big Sur Naval
Facility. Walking tours are offered
on a first-come, first-serve basis,
but beware: Large motorhomes and
campers are not allowed on site.
Even the number of visitors is limited “to preserve the sense of isolation and drama,” so come back with
a truck or tow car.
And, you might as well drive
right past Andrew Molera State Park,
as only primitive walk-in camping is
available. Instead, head straight for
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. As state
parks go, this one has it all: lush redwood forests, thick groves of sycamore, cottonwood, maple and alders,
open meadows and a great maze of
scenic hiking trails.
Motorhomes up to 32 feet long
and trailers up to 27 feet long are
permitted. Though there are no
hookups, you will find showers, restrooms, picnic areas and RV dump
stations. And most of the 214 campsites offer a good degree of privacy,
with mature vegetation.
“It’s just so peaceful back here,”
said Patty Piper, who treks to the
park with her partner Dave and their
four dogs from Los Angeles at least
a couple of times a year. “And this
(October) is a great time to visit,” she
said. “The days are warm, the nights
10
Scenic Route
Vol. 2 / No. 6
are cool, and the fog is largely gone.”
“It’s a great place to get away from it
all,” Dave added.
During the week, the couple
see few visitors. On fall weekends,
campsites may fill completely — a
good reason to make your online reservations early. Premium campsites
cost $35 during peak season and $30
off-season.
The Pipers enjoy meeting friends
here for hiking, from several spectacular scenic loops to a self-guided
nature loop. The Big Sur River also
threads through the campground
— a popular spot for a dip on a
hot day.
“Our confession is that we like it
here so much we almost never make
it over to the coast. We can see a
beach back home anytime, but the redwoods? That’s a different story,” Patty
Piper confided. The Pipers advise visitors to be sure and fill up with water
beforehand, stock up on provisions at
home, and register early.
By the time you’ve reached
Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, you’ll
begin to notice several private campgrounds along Highway 1 — a good
bet if you’re looking for full hookups
and hot showers. People we spoke
with on the road recommended Big
Sur Campground, a family-friendly
facility with water and full RV hookups located among redwoods along
the Big Sur River.
Hidden treasure
Oddly, one of Big Sur’s most
popular destinations is also among
• Andrew Molera State Park, 20 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1,
(831) 667-2315
• Big Sur Campgrounds and Cabins, 25 miles south of Carmel on
Highway 1, (831) 667-2322
• Kirk Creek Campground, 54 miles south of Camel River Bridge off
Highway 1, (805) 434-1996
• Limekiln State Park, 56 miles south of Carmel off
Highway 1, (831) 667-2403
• Nacimiento Campground, 11 miles from Kirk Creek
Campground up Ferguson Road, (805) 434-1996
• Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, 26 miles south of Carmel
on Highway 1, (800) 444-7275
• Plaskett Creek Campground, 60 miles south of the
Limekiln State Park
Carmel River Bridge off Highway 1, (805) 434-1996
• Ponderosa Campground, 13 Miles east from Kirk Creek campground
on Nacimiento-Ferguson Road, (877) 444-6777 or (805) 434-1996
• Riverside Campground and Cabins, 22 miles south of Carmel,
(831) 667-2414
• San Simeon State Park Campground, 2 miles north of Cambria on
Highway 1, (805) 927-2035
• Ventana Campground, 30 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2712
Good Eats, Great Sites:
•P
feiffer Beach is one of the most popular — yet hidden — beaches
in Big Sur. The road into it is unmarked and hard to find, but worth
the effort. Hint: It’s the only paved, ungated road west of Highway 1
between the Big Sur Post Office and Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. But don’t
plan on bringing a large motorhome or trailer down this extremely narrow, winding road.
• The Big Sur Roadhouse, located on Highway 1 across from Glen Oaks
Motel, offers terrific, affordable food at a decent price. The menu is innovative, award-winning and kid-friendly; the staff is great.
• Point Lobos, located three miles south of Carmel off Highway 1, is a
fabulous destination for hiking, diving, and watching the many seabirds
that make their home in this wildlife refuge. Hiking trails follow the shoreline, and you can easily spot seals, sea lions, sea otters, and migrating
gray whales, which cruise by in the winter.
• Nepenthe offers renowned food and one of the Big Sur’s best views,
overlooking 40 miles of coastline. Pricey, but memorable.
• Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park offers 11 miles of hiking trails, from short nature
walks to vigorous mountain treks into the Ventana Wilderness. Don’t miss
a hike through lush redwood groves to see the 60-foot high Pfeiffer Falls.
• Sand Dollar Beach is considered one of the longest and most scenic
stretches along the Big Sur coastline. Great for surfing, fishing and strolling. Find it across from Plaskett Creek Campground off Highway 1.
• Catch the fish tacos or a smoked salmon burger at the Redwood Grill,
located at Fernwood Resort, 27 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1.
• Andrew Molera State Park boasts a mile-long hiking trail through
meadows and sycamore groves to a sandy, secluded beach. Bonus:
The path also parallels the Big Sur River.
• The Big Sur Cultural and Natural History Center in the Molera Ranch
House, located in Andrew Molera State Park, showcases the rich heritage and diverse natural habitats of the coast.
• Indulge in French toast stuffed with blackberry-grand marnier cream
cheese in a funky, Old World setting at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn, 30 miles
south of Carmel off Highway 1.
its most well-kept secrets. Pfeiffer
Beach, with its famed arch-shaped
rock formation, is a must-see attraction — a two-mile drive down
Sycamore Canyon Road, and a short
walk in. Yet, you’ll never see a clue
that it even exists from Highway 1.
And access can be especially tough
for RVers.
Here’s the secret: Take the only
paved roadway that heads west off
the highway between Pfeiffer Park
and the Big Sur Post Office. It’s
a narrow, winding road, and signs
caution against large motorhomes
and trailers. But we observed a large
dump truck handle it with ease. Still,
a tow car is probably best to reach
this day use area.
It’s definitely worth the effort.
First-time visitors are generally awestruck by the raw beauty of the
beach. “I’m drawn here by the serenity, the smells, the sounds — just
God’s wonder,” said Jeannie Ward, a
visitor from Monterey. “We probably
make the trip four times a year.”
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(left to right): Learn more about the region’s rich wealth of marine life at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, a world-class facility with exhibits that appeal to
children of all ages. While beaches along Big Sur are usually accessible, visitors should be mindful of rogue waves and riptides. Wildlife viewing abounds along
the coast, from seals and sea otters to migrating whales.
parking can fill up quickly, espeically
on weekends. But the wave action is
dramatic and the sunset view hard to
beat. Little wonder it’s a favorite with
locals. And here’s a technical tip: For
some reason, we found this area to
have some of the strongest cell phone
reception in all of Big Sur, which can
be a problem otherwise.
Also know that as you tour
Highway 1, you’ll find only a sprinkling of convenience markets and gas
stations. They tend to be far flung, so
if you’re low on gas, don’t gamble
that you’ll make it to the next filling
station. When in doubt, ask.
For hiking and picnicking, be
sure to check out Julia Pfeiffer Burns
State Park, which stretches from the
coastline into 3,000-foot ridges.
Take the Overlook Trail to spy an
80-foot waterfall that dramatically
plunges from granite cliffs into the
waiting ocean. The bench at the
end of the Overlook Trail is also an
excellent place to watch migrating
gray whales in December, January,
March and April.
By the time you cross over Big
Creek Bridge, you’re already halfway down the coastline — among
California’s most secluded and pristine stretches.
Spring sets the coastal hillsides
ablaze with California poppies and
other wildflowers. Summertime can
bring ghostly fog, which can chill
12
Scenic Route
Vol. 2 / No. 6
campers to the bone. Prepare to dress
in layers, even in summer months.
Autumn brings fall colors and
clearer days, especially good for
stargazing, as the region has little
competing light pollution. Big Sur
generally sees more rainfall in
January and February than any other
time of the year.
Hiking, diving
and surfing
Grab lunch and a dizzying coastal view in Lucia and keep rolling
south to Limekiln State Park, 33
campsites anchored in a diverse setting, from rocky beach overlooks to
quiet stream-side sites in a shaded
redwood glen.
Undeveloped campsites range
from $25 in peak season to $20 off-
Be sure to bring a camera to capture
the breathtaking views that seem to
lurk behind every bend in the road.
season. Campers up to 24 feet long
and trailers up to 15 feet long are
permitted. Restrooms and showers
are available. The park has good
beach access, and the 300-foot
shoreline is all drama, strewn with
large, smooth rocks.
Ben and Kelly Hartel, and their
18-month-old son, snagged an
ocean-view site. The Hartels brought
their VW pop-up camper from Santa
Cruz for the weekend.
“We camped here a few years
ago and like it,” Kelly recalled. “But
it’s hard to choose whether to camp
out here by the water or down by the
creek and the redwoods.”
In addition to beachcombing and
surf fishing, the park offers three
major hiking trails, each about halfa-mile long. Hare Creek Trail follows
a stream bed to a grove of some of
the largest and oldest redwood trees
in Monterey County. The Falls Trail
traces Limekiln Creek to a 100-foot
waterfall spilling over limestone cliffs.
The Hartels recommend the Kilns
Trail, which leads to four historic
lime kilns, reflecting the region’s
historic link to the production of
lime in the early 1880s.
Just a few miles down the road,
Kirk Creek Campground overlooks
the sea. Few Big Sur campgrounds
afford quite the same ocean view,
and it’s a bargain at about $22 a
night. But even fans admit that the
lack of shade can be a problem in
warm weather.
Just across Highway 1, hikers
will find a trailhead that leads into
the Ventana Wilderness, 167,323
acres of land straddling the Santa
Lucia Mountain Range. The wilderness area boasts 197 miles of trails
and all the isolation you care to find.
When Jean Doyle and Doug
Patten visit, it’s a toss-up as to
whether they stay at Kirk Creek
Campground or nearby Plaskett
Creek. Though located inland from
the sea, Plaskett Creek offers family
campsites in a shaded, park-like setting, complete with picnic tables, fire
rings and pedestal grills.
RVs are permitted in the 44 sites
and drinking water is available.
You’ll also find good beach access to
nearby Sand Dollar Beach and Jade
Cove just west of Highway 1.
Tucked in a sheltered cove, Sand
Dollar Beach presents visitors with
the widest expanse of sand along
the Big Sur Coast, and possibly the
mildest weather. Standing on the
beach and looking northeast, you
can see towering 5,155-foot Cone
Peak. The beach is also popular
with local surfers. Bring a picnic and
watch the fun.
Jade Cove affords an unusual
opportunity. A path winds from
Highway 1 to the Jade Cove Beach,
which rests within the Monterey Bay
National Marine Sanctuary. It’s a popular destination for divers, and
you can even find bits of jade scattered on the beach.
But rockhounds take caution, as regulations govern the collection
of jade in this day-use area. Jade Cove is also a designated hang gliding landing site; keep your eyes open for an aerial show.
Just down the road, Willow Creek is a favorite spot for photographers, surfers and anglers. It’s a no-fee day-use site, but a nice turnout
for an impromptu picnic or break from the traffic.
On to the castle
The southern tip of Big Sur offers little public camping, but is famous
for great views and hiking opportunities.
The Salmon Creek trail starts on the south side of the Salmon
Creek bridge. It’s an easy trail that follows the creek to a waterfall,
which tumbles down in two spectacular flows. Sun-warmed boulders
create the perfect picnic spot, so pack one in.
Follow Highway 1 a
few more miles and you
ROUTE 66
can tackle a more chalRegional ROUTE 66
lenging trek. Ragged Trail
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it’s one of the few places
Pan Pacific RV Center
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one of the region’s most
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Just six miles north of
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San Simeon, you’ll have
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a chance to visit Piedras
Blancas Light Station,
named for a white rock
outcropping located just off the end of the point. Built in 1875, the
115-foot-tall lighthouse is open for tours on the third Saturday of each
month. Reservations may be made through the National Geographic
Theater, located at the Heast Castle Visitor Center at (805) 927-6811.
Tours cost $15 for adults; children are free.
Now that you’ve reveled in miles of natural wonders, you might enjoy
seeing a man-made extravaganza, and the Hearst Castle fits the bill — a
sharp contrast to the pristine coastline.
The palatial estate of newspaper magnate William Randolph
Hearst is a 165-room manor with 127 acres of gardens, terraces,
pools and walkways. Explore it through five tours, which include
vigorous walking. Weather runs hot at castle grounds during summer
months. You may wish to consider a night tour.
Tours often sell out, especially in the summer, so reservations are
recommended and may be made by calling (800) 444-4445.
For more information about visiting Big Sur, check out
www.bigsurcalifornia.org and www.parks.ca.gov. [
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