DIY for CHI - University of California, Berkeley

Transcription

for
DIY for CHI: Methods, Communities, and
Values of Reuse and Customization
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Organizers
Participants
Leah Buechley, MIT Media Lab
Eric Paulos, HCI Institute Carnegie Mellon University
Daniela Rosner, School of Information, UC Berkeley
Amanda Williams, School of Information
and Computer Sciences, UC Irvine
Adrian Freed
Jenna Fizel
Nick Bryan-Kinns
Alex Taylor
Jo Degraef
Nicolai Marquardt
Alex Uyttendaele
Kate Hartman
Nicolas Maisonneuve
Amon Daran Millner
Kazuhiro Jo
Nicolas Villar
Becky Stern
Lalya Gaye
Paul Lapides
Bjoern Hartmann
Laurel Swan
Richard Banks
Brian K Smith
Lone Koefoed Hansen
Rob Faludi
David A. Shamma
Mackenzie Cowell
Sunyoung Kim
Dries De Roeck
Marianna Obrist
Stacey Kuznetsov
Elia Nelson
Matt Jervis
Susanne Seitinger
Elizabeth Goodman
Matthias Stevens
Tom Igoe
Hannah Perner-Wilson
Michael Nagle
Wendy Ju
Jason Bobe
Natalie Freed
William (BJ) Thompson
Yotam Mann
for
What do glitter and glue, needles and thread, batteries and wires have to do with CHI?
What do makers and crafters have to teach us about the world, ourselves, and
technology? Where can CHI researchers engage with the rise of professional amateur
Do-It-Yourself (DIY) practitioners? This workshop provides an active playspace for
these communities to come together in making, building, and hacking technologies
and ideas. DIY encompasses a range of design activities that have become
increasingly prominent in online discussion forums and blogs, in addition to a
small-but-growing presence in professional/research forums such as CHI. Come
prepared to disassemble, smash, break, cut, glue, sew, solder, re-assemble, and get
dirty as we create our DIY future. The workshop will be focusing on DIY communities,
DIY methods, and DIY values and goals through a series of hands-on and participatory
DIY exercises and explorations.
Workshop Overview
People creatively repurpose and modify existing
materials to produce new things. These techniques
are sometimes codified and shared so that others
can reproduce, reinterpret or extend them. This
workshop will explore DIY as an important
alternative design practice. Our investigation will
serve to unearth design motivations and techniques
that may inform innovative HCI design methods and
new tools to support DIY activity. The workshop will
provide a forum for participants and organizers to
develop a community around DIY issues and
support ongoing research on DIY practice. The
one-day workshop will involve discussion periods
and group design exercises. We will provide a range
of craft supplies and tools that participants can use
during the exercises.
The discussion topics include: 1) DIY methods
2) DIY communities 3) DIY values and goals.
Topics include but are not limited to:
Craft and handiwork
Sustainable practices
Reuse, repair and economic necessity
Open source software
Open source hardware
Political implications of DIY
Economic implications of DIY
Social implications of DIY
DIY and education
DIY communities
DIY and marginalized groups
DIY in developing countries
Home Sign Up! Explore Community Submit
3D Motion Capture
by jftesser on August 31, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: 3D Motion Capture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Making the Rig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Setup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Using the Applet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Generating the Sculpture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 5: Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Customized Instructable T-shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
http://www.instructables.com/id/3D_Motion_Capture/
intro: 3D Motion Capture
Ever wanted to sketch something in 3D? Well, now you can break free of the confines of 2D paper for the price of two webcams.
I made this project as a present for some former professors of mine. The original intention was to track a dancer's movements. Since I'm not so great at dancing, I used it
to sketch.
Feel free to modify/hack/otherwise dismember the code I've posted.
What you'll need:
~ A computer running some flavor of Windows (all the software has been tested on VIsta and XP)
~ 2 webcams (I found mine on eBay for about $23)
~ A green LED (must be of the diffuse variety, or covered in translucent nail polish)
~ The capture applet I coded in Processing.
~ WinVDIG 1.0.1 (NOT the latest version) This will hook up Processing to your webcams.
~ Some way of keeping your cameras at 90 degrees to each other. You could use two friends, half a box with holes cut in it, or the adjustable rig I'll provide instruction for
in the next step.
~ If you want to generate a sculpture from your path, you'll also need Rhino 4 SR3 (which is free to try), a 3D modeling program, and its script editor Monkey along with
the sculpture generator script I wrote.
~ If you then want to print the sculpture, you'll need access to a 3D printer. If you don't happen to have one just lying around, I'd suggesting trying to get into the
Shapeways beta.
You can find a .zip of the applet (with source code) and the RhinoScript files attached to this step.
File Downloads
_3dCaptureV3.zip (9 MB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to '_3dCaptureV3.zip']
sculpturegeneratorv3.rvb (4 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'sculpturegeneratorv3.rvb']
step 1: Making the Rig
You can use any method to keep your cameras at 90 degrees. I designed this rig to be portable and easily adjustable to different sizes. However, if you're looking to
create something for sketching next to your computer, I'd suggest making three faces of a cube out of cardboard and cutting holes in two of then for the cameras.
Materials:
~ 2 drawer runners. These must be of the kind that don't come apart when not actually wedged inside a drawer. I got a pair of 18" ones at Home Depot for $14.
~ 1 large hinge. The holes in this hinge need to line up with at least two of the holes in the drawer runners.
~ 4 bolts, 4 nuts, and 8 washers. To connect the hinge and drawer runners. The bolts should be fairly short (<3/4") and the washers should be as wide as you can find
them.
~ A wrench. To tighten the bolts.
~ A C-clamp. To (eventually) attach the rig to a table or other horizontal surface.
Open one of the drawer runners. Line up one side of the hinge with the holes in the wide end of the drawer runner. Bolt the two together, making sure to place a washer
on either side. Repeat with the other drawer runner and other side of the hinge.
Congrats, you're all done with this step.
Image Notes
1. Hinge
2. Nuts/bolts/washers
3. Wrench
4. Drawer runner
5. Other drawer runner
Image Notes
1. Attachment from one side
Image Notes
1. Attachment from the other side
Image Notes
1. Finished rig
step 2: Setup
Before you can begin sketching you'll need to install some software and setup the rig. Here's how:
Step (1)
To begin, install WinVDIG. Its a video digitizer component for Quicktime that will let the Processing video library access the webcams. The version is 1.0.1. The newest
version of WinVDIG is 1.0.5, but it doesnt work with the newer versions of Quicktime. Go figure.
Step (2)
Then plug in the cameras and let Windows find the drivers.
Step (3)
While Windows is searching, and assuming you're using the rig detailed in the last step, open the camera rig and clamp it to the corner of a table. Be sure not to tighten
the clamp too much or the drawer runners wont open easily.
Step (4)
Slide out the ends of the drawer runners a few inches so that you can attach the cameras to them. Open the clips on the bottoms of the cameras and press them over the
top edges of the drawer runners.
Step (5)
Point the cameras directly ahead. Extend the drawer runners so that the cameras can point at the place the dancer will be standing.
Now you're ready to start the applet.
step 3: Using the Applet
Now you're ready to start making sketches.
Step (1)
Unzip the Capture Applet to a local drive, then open the exe inside the windows.application folder. After a few seconds a window should open that looks something like
the image below. Now, either turn on your LED (if you decided to go with a pre-made flashlight) or slide a battery in between the two leads. If you're going with option two,
make sure the voltage of the battery falls within the LED's acceptable range.
Step (2)
Position you light so that it can be seen by both cameras. A small green circle will show you the position that the camera sees as the greenest spot on each video feed.
I've defined the greenness of a pixel based on its RGB value like this:
Greenness = G/4 + (G-R) + (G-B)
Which favors bright green pixels, making a semi-dark room without many green things in it an ideal environment.
The positions of the 0.5% greenest are averaged to find position of the light in each video feed. Both coordinates from the XY camera feed and one from the Z camera
feed are used to construct a 3D point.
Step (3)
When you're ready, press the Start Capture button. A green line will appear in the Path Display box. That is the XY plane projection of your path. It should give you an
idea of how much of your frame you're using, but (if you're drawing instead of attaching the LED to a dancer) you shouldn't use it as a drawing guide. Instead, think about
the shape you're drawing in space. You'll get a much better result.
Step (4)
Press Stop Capture when you're done. If you're happy with the path you've draw, press Export . You'll notice that the export button has a number after it. That number will
increase each time you make a new path and choose to export it. The number you see at the time of exporting will be the name of the exported text file. To keep all
names unique, the date and time at which they are exported is also included in the name. The text files will write to the same folder as the exe and will be named like this:
path_data_1_y2008m8d19h10m2s25.txt
Step (5)
You can record and export as many paths as you want. When you're finished, make sure to quit by clicking on the small X in the corner of the applet. That will clear the
cameras from Quicktime.
Now you're ready to make the sculpture geometry.
Image Notes
1. Click to begin
2. You'll want to be able to see your green light in both of these windows.
Image Notes
1. This is the path you're capturing
2. The green circle shows you what's being tracked.
3. Clck this button when you're finished.
Image Notes
1. This button lets you export a text file of the path.
2. You'll see a preview of your finished path here.
step 4: Generating the Sculpture
You can now generate a 3D model (and 3D printer file) using Rhino and the script I've written. I've tried to write these instructions for someone with no experience using
Rhino/3D modeling software, so even if you've never modeled anything before you should be able to follow them. If you have any trouble feel free to message me and I'll
try to get back to you ASAP.
Step (1)
Open Rhino.
Step (2)
Look in the menus on the top for Monkey (Rhino's script editor).
Step (3)
If you can't find it, that means you'll have to run the Monkey installer. Close Rhino, run the installer, and re-open Rhino. You should see Monkey in the menu bar.
Step (4)
Before running the script, you'll need to set up the units for the file. Type Units into the command line. Choose your unit of preference from the drop down menu.
Step (5)
Now, type Monkey into the command line. You should see the text Monkey is initializing... and then a window should appear. This is the script editor.
Step (6)
Find the script file (sculpturegeneratorv3.rvb) and drag it into the tab strip near the top of the script editor window.
Step (7)
Click the Run Script button.
Step (8)
A window will pop up asking for the point text file that was exported from the applet. You'll find it in the same folder as the exe of the applet.
Step (9)
You'll be prompted in the command line to enter the maximum dimension. The dimension will be in the units system of the file, which you set earlier.
Step (10)
The sculpture will begin to draw. To speed things, minimize the Rhino window. If Rhino doesn't need to redraw each time its geometry is updated, it runs much faster.
Step (11)
When the script is done running, the Monkey window will pop up. You can them restore the main Rhino window.
Step (12)
If you look in the point text file's/applet's directory you'll now see an .stl file with the same name as the text file. This file should be ready for printing by most 3D printers.
Step (13)
And that's it! You can import more paths, or save your Rhino file and use it for renderings or modify by hand.
You can send out the stl files you've just made to be 3D printed. They should be acceptable for almost any kind of 3D printer.
Image Notes
1. Monkey!
Image Notes
1. Choose your units.
Image Notes
1. Open Monkey.
Image Notes
1. This is the run script button.
2. This is the Monkey window.
Image Notes
1. Maximum dimension prompt. This will control the final size of the sculpture you
produce.
Image Notes
1. Script file
2. Place you need to drag the script file
3. What you should see once you've dragged the script file there
Image Notes
1. The script will run *much* faster if you minimize Rhino.
Image Notes
1. You'll need to right click and choose restore after the Monkey window pops
back up.
Image Notes
1. The geometry generated from your path.
Image Notes
1. This is your stl (3D printer) file. It will appear right next to the path text file.
step 5: Gallery
Here are some renderings of the sculptures I created. The last two images are of the printed sculpture.
I hope you have fun with this project! If you decide to make your own, I'd love to see pics/renderings of what you come up with.
Thanks for visiting my instructable!
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Comments
34 comments Add Comment
lioncour says:
Nov 19, 2008. 9:12 AM REPLY
Hello, very nice Instructable, and nice code.
I got a problem, when i run the the script in monkey i get 20 meshes, most of them are round and when i render i only get like this, (look picture)
I have tried to draw 10 different "sculptures" with the lights but still the meshes look very much alike.
Any idea what i am doing wrong?
jftesser says:
Nov 19, 2008. 10:33 AM REPLY
Hmmm. Have you run the script in the same file each time? You might want to try a fresh file for each run. Also, do the previews of your paths look
significantly different in the applet? If they don't, it's possible that your paths are all very similar.
If you can't figure out what's going on, feel free to e-mail me a copy of the path data or rhino file and I'll take a look at it.
Thanks for trying my instructable!
Jenna
[email protected]
leahbuechley says:
Nov 16, 2008. 7:19 AM REPLY
fantastic instructable! thanks for sharing!
smiling_gandalf says:
Oct 17, 2008. 2:13 PM REPLY
seriously awesome dude!
im gonna try to incorporate this into my A2 project
tammasus says:
Sep 28, 2008. 12:53 AM REPLY
Hey! Excellent project!. Can I capture motion and animate a model with it? like they do in movies? just a thought.
mwwdesign says:
Sep 9, 2008. 5:40 PM REPLY
What renderer did you use for the 3D renders? ...and what lighting rig? They look great!
jftesser says:
I used Vray with simple GI lighting. The material is a single color with high reflection.
Sep 9, 2008. 6:31 PM REPLY
mwwdesign says:
Sep 9, 2008. 7:42 PM REPLY
Thanks, I've been using Flamingo for years, but think it's time to get into Vray...
jhchawk says:
Sep 3, 2008. 5:04 AM REPLY
Hey...I was just thinking about trying to combine this project with one I've just been thinking about....trying to make an accurate model of my head (haha).
Do you think if I used a green light refracted (refracted? idk if that's the right verb) through, for example, a wine glass, to make a line instead of a dot of light,
and then rotate my head with the green line on it, your software could run it?
hit me up at [email protected], I'm kind of a noob at code, but i know my way around 3d modeling a bit.
Culturedropout says:
Sep 7, 2008. 7:49 PM REPLY
You need to take a look at "David" http://david-laserscanner.com/ to do something like that. I've played with it a bit (although I was running it inside
VMware since I don't run Windoze natively) and it worked pretty well.
lordhazzard says:
Sep 1, 2008. 2:39 PM REPLY
woah, we actually have been doing this, but with a guy and 20 ping pong balls.
now this really only works with one point in space.if you have 2, and the camera loses site of one, of they cross, u have to do a whole lot of crazy math.
Also with this set up, u cant do more than one point because of perspective.
but looks cool.
jftesser says:
Sep 1, 2008. 3:24 PM REPLY
Yeah, I just flat out ignored perspective. I wasn't tracking a large area, or trying for perfect accuracy so I decided not to correct for it. It should be simple
enough to do if you know the focal length of the cameras and the distance your frame starts at. Actually, you could do several points as long as you used
different color LEDs and wrote a tracker for each. Again, I wasn't intending to track more than one point so I didn't implement this either.
shamanwhitewolf says:
Sep 7, 2008. 9:27 AM REPLY
That's exactly what I was wondering about... I was thinking of editing the code (I'm not a programmer though) to handle red, blue and green LEDs so
you could take an object like a toy airplane with red on one wing, green on the other, and blue on the nose (or any other pattern you wish). Then you
could put it through maneuvers and see the results. Could be really cool. I think an artificial perspective would be created as the paths of the lights
cross, hiding one or another.
This is a fantastic Instructable! Well explained with plenty of images, and a great subject. Thanks for writing it.
surfwizz says:
Sep 5, 2008. 8:58 PM REPLY
Any possibility of a mac client? My PC really isn't up to the task of doing something like this, and I don't have a copy of windows for my mac. I don't know
what would be involved, but this would be a great tool for doing 3d scenes using real items.
jftesser says:
Sep 6, 2008. 10:05 AM REPLY
The applet will work on a mac as long as you're ok with having your iSight as one of the two cameras. There should be a mac application in the zip.
However, the RhinoScript part will only work on a windows machine. If you just want the path data as txt, though, you can use a mac.
x2percentmilk says:
Sep 4, 2008. 2:39 PM REPLY
ow, beautifully done
nice artwork at the end, very impressive
might inspire me to make something similar in my spare time =)
shadowfluid says:
Sep 5, 2008. 3:56 PM REPLY
seriously, this looks great! i applaud your abilities as a hacker and creativity as an artist. kudos!
TangMu says:
Sep 5, 2008. 3:33 AM REPLY
Well done, looking forward to playing with this at some point
motorsk8er says:
could you sculpt with something like maya and print it?
Sep 2, 2008. 5:35 PM REPLY
jftesser says:
Sep 2, 2008. 6:21 PM REPLY
Sure, you could script something in mel. Rhino's also a 3D modeling program, and the goal of that component of the instructable is to make a printable
file.
motorsk8er says:
Sep 3, 2008. 6:10 PM REPLY
cool.
lieuwe says:
Sep 3, 2008. 8:05 AM REPLY
could you make the program so that it records from the webcam and THEN do the motion capture? my PC is just too slow for realtime stuff
jftesser says:
Sep 3, 2008. 8:38 AM REPLY
Sure. You'd just need to save your frames and then analyze them later. Of course, saving takes some resources too. You'll need a decent machine to
run this project. Are you familiar with Processing?
lieuwe says:
Sep 3, 2008. 11:24 AM REPLY
a bit, but im no pro
lieuwe says:
Sep 3, 2008. 11:31 AM REPLY
oh, by the way, i only need your program to read numbered files, i can extract them to bmp if you want
chris.brent says:
Sep 1, 2008. 9:12 PM REPLY
What an awesome instructable. I've got a bit of a problem with the windows exe though. The java window opens but there's no UI inside it. Any hints?
jftesser says:
Sep 1, 2008. 9:57 PM REPLY
Do you have two webcams attached to your computer and winvdig 1.0.1 installed? If you don't, the applet won't work and you'll just see a white box.
chris.brent says:
Sep 2, 2008. 7:56 PM REPLY
My bad. I only have one webcam as I only want to capture XY. I'll have a look at the code and see what I can use. Thanks!
zwild1 says:
Sep 1, 2008. 10:53 AM REPLY
Great idea and instructable! This is a project I'll have to try.
What did you use for the 3D printer?
smuggler says:
Sep 1, 2008. 11:53 AM REPLY
looks like it's an SLS model
jftesser says:
Sep 1, 2008. 2:29 PM REPLY
Actually, it's a zcorp model (powder)....I was originally going to do sls, but zcorp is cheaper :)
smuggler says:
Sep 1, 2008. 3:34 PM REPLY
apple and apples
aphrael says:
Sep 1, 2008. 12:46 PM REPLY
this is so awesome and creative! wow!
explosivemaker says:
wow...thats some funky cool stuff
Sep 1, 2008. 12:48 AM REPLY
5 minute DNA Extraction in a Shot Glass
by macowell on November 4, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: 5 minute DNA Extraction in a Shot Glass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Salivation...GO! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 2: Add a couple drops of soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: some protease... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: And a pinch of salt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 5: Pour on a layer of the rum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 6: spool your DNA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 7: Tastes like DNA! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Customized Instructable T-shirts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
http://www.instructables.com/id/5_minute_DNA_Extraction_in_a_Shot_Glass/
intro: 5 minute DNA Extraction in a Shot Glass
Despite its exotic-sounding name, DNA is ubiquitous - it can be found in every cell of every living thing and almost everywhere on the planet. Nonetheless, we rarely
come face-to-face with the molecule itself - and it's not because DNA is difficult to find or isolate! In this instructable, we'll show you how to isolate your own DNA with
little more than some dish soap, table salt, high-proof alcohol, a shot glass, and a bit of your own saliva.
It only takes a couple of minutes, and after you've isolated your own DNA, you can either drink it back down in a tasty "DNA shot" (great party trick) or better yet, purify it
further for more analysis*.
Materials & Set Up
1/4 of a shot glass full of your saliva
several drops of dish soap (look for sodium laurel sulfate in the ingredients)
a pinch of table salt (1/16 of a teaspoon)
some contact-lens cleaning solution, meat tenderizer, or pineapple juice (optional)
Ice-cold 120-proof+ liquor (overproof rum works well)
SAFETY NOTE:
The chemicals used in this experiment are "everyday" household items and are not particularly dangerous. Nonetheless, exercise extra caution and think twice if you
decide to consume your DNA shot and ABSOLUTELY do not substitue rubbing alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, or any other non-consumable alcohol for the overproof rum we
used. Besides using "denatured' alcohol, the other potential safety concern is the dishsoap added to the mixture. A couple drops won't hurt you, but if you are concerned
about it, feel free to leave it out.
This instructable was produced by DIYbio - an organization for amateur biotechnologists. Visit diybio.org for more information.
EDIT: Some DIYbioers are developing a simple gel box and a gel box on steroids. We should have some instructables put together for them before Dec 08. If you are
interested in helping, please join the DIYbio google group!
Image Notes
1. a simple shot glass - begin by filling a quarter of it with your saliva
2. Soft contact lens cleaner contains proteases to break down the proteins that can fog your contacts or clump with our extracted DNA
3. Overproof rum: 120-proof, $6. Economical, but not tasty.
4. Unscented "organic" dish soap - sodium laurel sulfate listed in the ingredients.
5. A pinch of table salt - less than 1/16 of a teaspoon
step 1: Salivation...GO!
1/4 of a shot glass of saliva is harder to produce than you might think! Work your tongue against your cheeks and teeth as you think of a big juicy grilled steak / tofu cube
/ dim sum, or Muffins / baked cookies . I had to spit about 5 times to fill the glass 1/4th full.
If you are making the DNA shot for someone else, be sure to let them know where the DNA came from.
Image Notes
1. DNA: not visible yet. Saliva: looks kinda gross - 1/4th full
step 2: Add a couple drops of soap
Now that we have some saliva to work with, the first step is to break open (lyse) the cells it contains. We can do this by mixing in a couple of drops of the dish soap.
The detergents in the dish soap (like the sodium laurel sulfate, aka sodium dodecyl sulfate) destabilize the membranes of the cells, spilling their contents into the rest of
the solution of saliva. This includes all of the cytoplasmic and nuclear proteins, sugars, and yes, nucleic acids (DNA! and rna.) But all of this stuff is still dissolved in the
saliva. The rest of the steps will cause the DNA to aggregate and precipitate out of solution.
Image Notes
1. I added about 4 drops
step 3: some protease...
Now that we've busted open the cells, they've spilled their guts all over the place in our saliva solution. in this step we try and get rid of as much of the protein part of
those guts as we can.
A protease is a type of enzyme that can break down other enzymes. Meat tenderizer, pineapple juice, and soft contact lens cleaning solution all contain (different)
proteases. A tiny bit of any of those should reduce the amount of protein that precipitates out with our DNA later on.
step 4: And a pinch of salt
Just add a pinch of table salt to the soapy saliva. I used less than 1/16th of a teaspoon, and that was probably too much.
So what's the deal?
Although we have freed the DNA from the cells, it's still dissolved in the solution. To get the DNA to precipitate and solidify, we need to do something about each
molecule's negatively-charged phosphate backbone.
When we dissolve the table salt in the solution, some of the positively-charged Sodium ions will interact with the negatively-charged regions of the DNA molecules and
effectively shield other nearby DNA molecules from their repulsive force - this will help them all aggregate and clump together in the next step.
To visualize the idea here, imagine the resistance you feel when you begin to push the south poles of two magnets together - this is sort of like what's going on between
the individual DNA molecules. Now imagine inserting the north pole of a third magnet between the south poles of the first two - the resistance is reduced. The north pole
of the third magnet is sort of like the Sodium ion in our solution.
Image Notes
1. This is 1/8th-teaspoon half full.
step 5: Pour on a layer of the rum
Mix the solution in the shot glass for a minute by gently shaking and rocking the glass.
Now gently add a layer of the overproof rum to fill up the shot glass. The best way to do this is by tilting the shot glass and transferring the rum over a little bit at a time
using a straw. If you have a steady hand, however (or just think you do, like me), you can try and slowly pour the icy-cold rum from the bottle onto the top of the
saliva in the shot glass. The key thing here is to prevent the alcohol from mixing much past the surface of the saliva.
You should see some cloudy, snot-like white stuff suddenly appear near the boundary between the saliva and alcohol as you add the alcohol. This is DNA (and probably
a lot of other cellular junk) precipitating out of solution!
What's going on? DNA is not very soluble in alcohol, so some of the free DNA at the surface of the saliva solution immediately precipitates when we begin to add the
alcohol. Other, deeper DNAs are pulled out of solution by the precipitating DNAs into the alcohol, and suddenly we end up with this visible floating mass of DNA. You can
see the precipitate in the second photo.
step 6: spool your DNA
If you are in a playful mood, you can use a small rod like a toothpick to spool up your DNA. Insert the toothpick into the DNA precipitate and gently swirl it around, rotating
the toothpick at the same time. You're trying to wind the filaments of precipitated DNA around the tip of the toothpick.
Once you think you've got them, you can slowly lift the toothpick out of the solution. You should see it trailing a thin strand... of DNA! (check out the second picture; note
that my shot glass has a red yelp logo on it)
At this point, you could prepare the spooled DNA on the toothpick for use in another experiment - for instance, you might be interested in staining the DNA to make sure
you actually extracted some of it, or in running it on a homemade gel to separate all the different fragments of DNA by their length. Or you might try and prepare for
sequencing (but you would probably need to purify the sample first)
step 7: Tastes like DNA!
MMMM - Can you taste the DNA ?
I decided to drink my DNA shot. I thought my body might resent the fact I had take some of its DNA - the blueprint and program that defined how it grew into what it is
today - and not shared any with it. Also, I wanted to see if my DNA had a particular taste.
Results: the DNA shot tastes like very potent, cheap rum. But it was one of the best drinks I can remember making.
Safety Note: be sure you are using consumable alcohol bought from a liquor store - anything else will poison you. Be safe, and think twice before you mindlessly follow
directions.
More information about the chemistry of the DNA precipitation reaction and other version of the DIY DNA extraction protocol can be found here:
Kitchen Kitchen Counter DNA lab
The Macgyver Project: Genomic DNA extraction and Gel Electrophoresis using everyday materials
How to extract DNA from anything living
The Basics: How Ethanol Precipitation of DNA and RNA Works
The Science of DNA precipitation by madsci.org
Hope you enjoyed this DIY protocol! If so, join us!
- Mac from diybio.org
Image Notes
1. Ready from some tasty DNA!
2. Down the hatch
3. MMMmm.m... .nmm.. tastes like $6 rum...
Mapping
Microbes by
jasonbobe
The Science of
DNA! by
Wesley666
Gel-O-Shot
INSIDE A
Banana! by NK5
How to extract
Dino DNA by
watermelon
Distill Vodka To
Make Everclear
by The Mollusk
Science Fair
Projects (guide)
by randofo
Block Party
Blowout by
mandible
How to save the
world!!! by
beberly37
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Comments
RoyalPayne says:
Dec 2, 2008. 11:39 AM REPLY
Sorry, I couldn't get past, or thru, the first step. Thanks to CameronSS for the strawberry tip. Now this is doable
macowell says:
Dec 3, 2008. 5:44 PM REPLY
In my experience the procedure works well with about a quarter of a shot glass of spit or more. This actually takes a while to produce, like 10 minutes.
Maybe you weren't using enough?
phipho says:
I work in a very conservative high school is there a substitute for the 120 proof alcohol?
Nov 22, 2008. 7:00 PM REPLY
macowell says:
Nov 22, 2008. 10:30 PM REPLY
Yes, any "rubbing alcohol" you can get at a drug store will probably be even more effective, as well as cheaper - but do not drink it.
jdr03272 says:
Nov 21, 2008. 9:22 PM REPLY
This is pretty interesting, however, unless my 150 credits of biology over the last four years have failed me, you are not precipitating out DNA. When this
(more or less exact) procedure is done in a lab, we might choose to do it to a plasmid prep containing a very cloudy bacterial culture which has lots and lots
of cells. When this procedure is run on a 10ml+ culture, you get about 300ul of DNA, much less than the amount of "DNA" your getting out of about 5ml of
saliva.
Yes there are cells in saliva but VERY few and the way DNA is recovered on shows like CSI is to do this procedure and then amplify the extremely small
amount of DNA with PCR, then run it out on a gel. In plain english, there could not possibly be enough cells in your saliva sample to yield the macroscopic
amounts of DNA you are twirling around the toothpick. Instead, what you have probably precipitated is Mucin, the proteinaceous secretion which confers
viscosity to saliva. Mucin will still precipitate even with the proteases added. am i wrong?
macowell says:
Nov 22, 2008. 10:07 AM REPLY
I suspect you are correct. It would be interesting to try and stain just the mucin to test your hypothesis, or more generally to just stain protein. I've tried
adding some methylene blue in the past, but it just seems to stain everything generally.
What we need is a gel box and reliable materials to run gels. Then we could actually purify any DNA present. I wonder how sensitive SybrSafe dye is? It
might stain much smaller quantities of DNA than a miniprep produces.
jdr03272 says:
Nov 22, 2008. 12:37 PM REPLY
Good idea. I've never used SybrSafe, but there are a few good DNA stains out there like BioRad's FastBlast DNA stain.
jschroedl says:
Nov 22, 2008. 5:10 AM REPLY
Ew. cool project. Would there be anything interesting to see under a microscope?
leahbuechley says:
Nov 16, 2008. 7:56 AM REPLY
very cool!
thematthatter says:
Nov 7, 2008. 11:04 PM REPLY
Could you get better yield by using body fluid that had more DNA?
Like blood or something
Postscript624 says:
Nov 13, 2008. 2:11 PM REPLY
You can also get some nice yields with fruit or veggies. Onions and bananas work well, you just gotta puree them a bit first. Also, dogs have a higher
chromosome number, so if you have pets you might get a higher yield with doggie drool.
thematthatter says:
Nov 16, 2008. 3:55 AM REPLY
Dog drool, gross!
spasysheep says:
Nov 13, 2008. 1:52 PM REPLY
Blood contains very little DNA as the cells in it are mostly red blood cells which contain no nucleus and therefore no DNA
deathcrew says:
Nov 10, 2008. 4:02 PM REPLY
Yeah Can we just Blood Instead of saliva?. i would really like to know that =]
macowell says:
Nov 10, 2008. 4:17 PM REPLY
This Instructable was not optimized for producing a high yield of DNA. It was designed to be as fast and easy as possible.
If the goal was to maximize the yield, I would start by finding an easy way to at least qualitatively measure roughly how much DNA had been isolated
- this would be useful for evaluating different extraction protocols (70% alcohol or 91% or... etc). I thought a lot about this when I was developing this
instructable and have not been able to identify any particularly easy ways to analyze the DNA. For instance, methylene blue is easy to get at any pet
store, and does stain DNA, but it also stains other stuff as well.
My plan is to develop an instructable for building and using a gel box, and at the same time an optimized DNA extraction instructable for getting DNA
to analyze with the gel.
Lastly, I don't know anything about handling blood. I would strongly encourage anyone who is interested in using blood to research the safety
concerns and consider disposal concerns before doing anything. If anyone does this, consider telling us about it in the diybio google groupdiybio
google group.
macowell says:
Nov 12, 2008. 3:22 PM REPLY
Additionally, Red Blood Cells eject their nucleus during their development and probably don't contain much DNA at all, if any. Other cells in your
blood might, but overall I doubt it would be an ideal tissue sample.
thematthatter says:
Nov 16, 2008. 4:06 AM REPLY
what about ....
semen
irinazcona says:
Nov 13, 2008. 1:38 PM REPLY
yeah, blood cells don't have DNA.
Saint_Awesome says:
Nov 14, 2008. 3:25 PM REPLY
White blood cells have a nucleus containing DNA.
junits15 says:
Nov 13, 2008. 1:27 PM REPLY
i did something like this in the 7th grade, execpt with an onion, and real chemicals.
bitterbug says:
Nov 14, 2008. 3:04 PM REPLY
As exposed to fake chemicals? :P
Sounds like you go to a pretty cool school. We didn't have anything this cool in 7th grade back when I was in it :)
junits15 says:
Nov 15, 2008. 9:47 AM REPLY
well as oposed to dish soap and contact lense cleaner! XD We actully had to go to a lab, it took the about three months to get us permission to use
the lab because in real life you have to be 18 to use a lab. the chemicals that we used, were pretty much the same execpt they were mork
concentrated, Ex: we used ice cold ethanol instaind of booze XD
brixon21 says:
Nov 14, 2008. 9:23 PM REPLY
I used to work at University doing research on radioactive DNA, and this is way more simple....haha Great Instructable.
tictac24 says:
Nov 7, 2008. 1:06 PM REPLY
Wait, so you drank it even with the dish soap and contact lens cleaning solution in it!?!?
cfuse says:
Nov 13, 2008. 4:01 PM REPLY
I'm pretty sure that the LD50 for either soap or lens cleaner would exceed his stomach capacity (and certainly that of a shot glass). The most toxic part of
the drink is the alcohol.
macowell says:
Nov 14, 2008. 8:19 AM REPLY
Good point. 7th Generation Free & Clear dish soap MSDS - need to consume like 1/2 your body weight for toxic effects.
I couldn't find an MSDS for the contact lens cleaner. I think you're right; the alcohol is by far the most toxic part of the mixture.
macowell says:
Nov 7, 2008. 2:10 PM REPLY
yep. it's only a few drops of each - probably no more than you are exposed to when you add the drops to your eyes or wash your dishes in your sink (if
you don't have a dishwasher).
mike256 says:
Nov 13, 2008. 9:12 PM REPLY
I just did this with my kids (4 and 7). they had a blast. I used the method from the macgyver project which was linked from step 6. I plan on making the gel
box and finding out what fun it will be. I used the regular buffer (water, salt and baking soda) and did a swish and spit with it then added the soap.
The hardest part was trying to explain what DNA was to the kids. just how small the nucleolus of a cell is and how we got it out. I used rubbing alcohol to
precipitate the DNA strands. all in all it was a ton of fun and the kids (and I) learned bunch from this. great instructable. one of my favorites by far. kudos to
you sir :)
schimmi says:
we just did this in biology!
Nov 13, 2008. 2:37 PM REPLY
starburstdragoon says:
Nov 11, 2008. 9:09 PM REPLY
Wow. Perfect Instructable
iMac says:
Nov 10, 2008. 5:47 PM REPLY
Is there anything cool you can do with the dna?
stasterisk says:
Nov 10, 2008. 5:10 AM REPLY
Awesome! Can't wait to see more!
Browncoat says:
Nov 9, 2008. 8:29 PM REPLY
I can't decide if this is more bizarre or more awesome... :)
Bran says:
Nov 8, 2008. 6:35 PM REPLY
Yeah, we just did this in Biology with strawberries. Isopropyl alcohol works as well.
Oh, nice sideburns!
rickyd! says:
Nov 8, 2008. 5:10 AM REPLY
sounds like a cool bar bet
canida says:
Nov 7, 2008. 3:05 PM REPLY
Nice!
lingdong says:
Nov 7, 2008. 12:48 PM REPLY
Kiwifruit juice can be used in place of the meat tenderiser. Just a tip
canida says:
Nov 7, 2008. 3:05 PM REPLY
Pineapple, kiwi, and papaya all contain the same proteolytic enzyme, papain. Good stuff.
LinuxH4x0r says:
Nov 7, 2008. 5:38 AM REPLY
Now make a gel electrophoresis setup!
kelseymh says:
Nov 7, 2008. 11:53 AM REPLY
Yes, indeed! In the intro, Mr. macowell wrote,
See our instructables on building your own gel electrophoresis box and running a gel with your own dna.
It would have been nice if he had provided links to those. Visiting his Web site, I found only a blog entry, not an actual procedure.
macowell says:
Nov 7, 2008. 12:33 PM REPLY
Ah, you caught me! Ok, so we are actively working on building a gel box and running a gel (successfully) and should have those instructables done
before December 08. I added some links to discussions about them at the end of the intro.
kelseymh says:
Nov 7, 2008. 12:59 PM REPLY
Sounds great! And thanks for the edit :-) I had read MAKE's article about the procedure, so seeing a step-by-step implementation will be quite
nice. The idea that "anyone" can do this stuff, including PCR, at home is just astounding.
iPodGuy says:
Cool!
Nov 7, 2008. 12:29 PM REPLY
sonic_dan says:
Nov 7, 2008. 8:09 AM REPLY
yeah i did this in my university lab last year with onion dna. the lecturer did mention that you could do it at home with vodka and stuff, but although i admit i'm
veeery nerdy, it doesn't stretch this far... hmmm.
CameronSS says:
Nov 6, 2008. 7:50 PM REPLY
We did a similar lab in Biology a couple years ago. The main difference was that we squeezed overripe strawberry juice out, and extracted the DNA from
that. We were using denatured alcohol, which is just fine if you are not planning to drink it. My moronic biology teacher couldn't tell me why rubbing alcohol
wouldn't work, so I tried it when I got home. There is currently a small test tube of apple DNA sitting on my desk.
bioweathermap: who wants to be a molecular meteorologist?
The 2009 DIYbio.org global experiment is the creation of a "BioWeatherMap" where individuals will
collaborate to visualize the geographic and temporal variation of microbial life present on specimens
collected from around the globe. The BioWeatherMap is part of an annual DIYbio contest we're calling
FlashLabs, where each year we will launch a new collaborative, consumer-generated science initiative
worldwide.
The enabling technology for the bioweathermap is low-cost, high-throughput DNA sequencing. No
technical knowledge is required to participate, but chances are good that individuals will be learn
fascinating new concepts along the way. All one needs is a sterile swab and a promising surface to
collect a sample, such as a cross-walk-button or a furnace air filter. Amateurs, enthusiasts, students,
and the curious minded will be able to visual the dynamic ebb and flow of microbial life in their own
homes and towns, and compare bioweather with neighbors and other cities across the world.
Individuals can participate via flashmob style events in their own cities and towns, or explore on their
own. The following is the protocol for flashmob style collaboration:
1. Converge: Attend the DIYbio event in your city, register, and receive your kit.
2. Collect: Using a sterile skin swab, collect residue from a crosswalk button or
other surface in the region you live. Record the date, time, weather, geolocation,
and other data relevant to the specimen collected. Take photos and videos of your
specimen collection, and upload them to the web.
3. Ship: Send sterile swabs to a sequencing facility.
4. Sequence: The microbial DNA on the sterile swab will be characterized via 16S
ribosomal RNA sequencing, uniquely identifying hundreds or thousands of species
that were present in the specimen.
5. Publish: After ~2 weeks, genetic data is sent to the participant who then will
publish it online in a central, open-access repository.
6. Visualize: Collective results are visualized on a map. Mash-ups between
Google Maps and EOL are inevitable.
Current Status
The bioweathermap is technically feasible today. The current cost per sample is about $60. I work
closely with George Church at Harvard Medical School on the Personal Genome Project. George and
his lab is committed to using their open-source sequencing platform, the Polonator, to develop
sequencing protocols that will drop the cost to <$5 per sample within one year. I am in the process
of identifying sponsors and partners for the project, as well as developing outreach programs so high
school biology programs can incorporate bioweather into their curricula.
On the technical side, we are currently in the process of identifying surfaces which will yield the most
interesting bioweather results. For example, before the project is launched globally we need to
ensure that surfaces such as cross-walk buttons or furnace air filters have sufficiently interesting
temporal and geographical variation that individuals will be really excited about their results.
We have preliminary results from 8 crosswalk buttons in Davis Square (Somervile, MA) and over the
next few months we'll be refining the protocols, verifying the best surfaces for characterizing
bioweather:
Expectations
By the DIY for CHI meeting in early 2009, we should have pilot projects established in 1-3
metropolitan areas, each with a community of 300-500 aspiring molecular meteorologists collecting,
publishing, and visualizing bioweather data.
About Me
I am interested in how new technologies and the web are redefining the relationships between
scientific research communities, communities from the general public, and the network of actors inbetween. More generally, I’m interested in the entrepreneurship of ideas around emerging
technologies with rich informational components and significant social and personal impacts. I
currently work as the director of community for the Personal Genome Project based out of George
Church’s lab at Harvard Medical School and a founder of DIYbio.org
Change a cloth diaper!
by wendyju on November 6, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Change a cloth diaper! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Prepare diaper and materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Position the baby on the changing table. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 3: Place the diaper under the baby. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Fold the front of the diaper in thirds. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 5: Tuck the diaper between the legs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: Wrap the diaper around the baby's legs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 7: Fasten the diaper. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 8: Put the diaper cover on. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 9: Fasten the diaper cover. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 10: Finished! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Change_a_cloth_diaper/
intro: Change a cloth diaper!
Here are step-by-step instructions on how to put a cloth diaper and diaper cover on a baby.
step 1: Prepare diaper and materials
For this instructable, you will need a cloth diaper, a diaper cover and a "snappi" clip.
It is important to assemble your materials so that everything is in arms reach from the start, because the faster you're able to perform the diaper change, the less likely
you are to get peed on.
Cloth diapers come in different weaves, weights and sizes. If you are buying your own set of cloth diapers to wash and wear (more power to you!), it might be good to
know that the flat rectangular diapers that are shown in the following instructable are called "prefolds" (not to be confused with the diapers that actually look prefolded like
a disposable--those are called "all-in-ones"--or flatfolds, which are not yet folded). Prefolds are folded and stitched so that there is a triple thickness of cloth down the
center of the diaper. If you use a diaper service (I use Tiny Tots in the Bay Area), your diapers are probably made of heavyweight twill. Try to make sure the diapers you
are using are for the approximate age/weight range of the baby, or you will face frustration.
Diaper covers come in lots of varieties as well, but most of them have a waterproof lining on the inside that keeps the cloth diaper (which is very effective at wicking
liquid!) from wetting the baby's clothes. These, too, come in different sizes for different size babies--check to make sure you're in the ball-park on size.
Finally, there are lots of ways to secure cloth diapers so that they stay on the baby. In this Instructable we use Snappi fasteners. Snappis are a stretchy "Y" band of
plastic with little teeth that dig into the diaper fabric and hold everything in place. These are really convenient to use--you can put them on with one hand while the other
holds the diaper in place. You can buy these from Amazon, if you can't find them anywhere else.
step 2: Position the baby on the changing table.
In this regard, changing a cloth diaper is like changing any diaper, but it bears mentioning:
It's easier to change the baby if you have him or her positioned at waist height for you. In a pinch, you can change babies anywhere you can lay them down, but long
term, for the sake of your back, waist height is best.
It is also easier to put the diaper if they are lying so that their legs face your dominant hand. I am right handed, so that is what these images show; just mirror things if you
are left handed.
And of course, never leave the baby unattended on a changing table. Seriously.
step 3: Place the diaper under the baby.
Put the diaper under the baby. Fold the left edge of the diaper so that about a third of the diaper is under the baby's buns. The pre-folded part of the diaper should be
running left to right in front of you, so that it is optimally positioned to absorb pee and poop.
step 4: Fold the front of the diaper in thirds.
Holding the baby's feet in your left hand, use your right hand to fold the right edge of the diaper in thirds. Keep the top edge of each third lined up so that the rest of the
diaper forms a rectangle. THIS IS IMPORTANT because it keeps the diaper tight around the baby's legs later.
Image Notes
1. This area is called the "poop trap."
2. The right edges of the folded diaper should line up.
step 5: Tuck the diaper between the legs.
Bring the folded rectangle of cloth between the baby's legs.
Now spread the top edge of the rectangle out across baby's belly.
Image Notes
1. Note this tuck. If you were good about keep the right folded edge aligned and
the portion between the legs a rectangle, you'll get this nice tuck that keeps the
diaper tight around the baby's legs.
step 6: Wrap the diaper around the baby's legs.
Bring the back corners of the diaper under the baby around so they meet the front corners of the rectangle you just widened. Hold with your left hand.
step 7: Fasten the diaper.
The snappi is shaped like a "T". Hook the top part of the T to the back corners of the diaper, and the leg of the T to the front rectangle.
Ta-da! The diaper is on.
Image Notes
1. You want this part to be snug against the leg to prevent poop from escaping.
The trick to this is to pull the outer edge here up and fasten it with the snappi.
step 8: Put the diaper cover on.
The diaper's job is to absorb and contain baby's poop and pee. The diaper cover's job is to make sure the diaper is isolated from the baby's clothes.
Use your left hand to hold the baby's feet and lift his or her bottom up enough to slide a diaper cover under the baby, waterproof side up.
Bring the front of the diaper cover around to cover the whole diaper.
Take care to make sure no cloth is sticking out the top in front or back! Any exposed cloth will wick liquid to any other cloth it comes in contact with.
Image Notes
1. Note this nice tuck is still holding!
Image Notes
1. Make sure the top back edge is above the diaper line. It's easy to accidentally
leave some diaper sticking out the back. This will cause pee to soak onto baby's
clothes.
2. note wide velcro edge is to the right, facing down.
step 9: Fasten the diaper cover.
Fasten the "arms" of the diaper cover around the front. It's not important to make it super tight, it's only important that it covers all of the diaper.
Usually you will have to tuck the diaper in around the legs. Diaper covers with leg gussets make this step easier.
step 10: Finished!
Check to make sure the diaper is snug and the diaper cover is covering all of the diaper.
You're done!
how to change a How to Make a
Diaper Cake -diaper by
Without the
baselinedesign
Chocolate
Filling by
dennisyuki
How to Potty
Train a Child by
msaraann
Wool Soaker
(slideshow) by
trshtwns01
Reduce diaper /
nappy volume,
reduce landfill.
Squeemish
beware. by
bosherston
How To Make A
Boutique Style
Diaper Cake by
bakemeacake
Resort-X by
juliemccoy
How to Stop
Using Paper
Towels,
Napkins, and
Baby Wipes by
nerdnurture
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Comments
3 comments
Add Comment
sry says:
Nov 21, 2008. 8:48 AM REPLY
iam that is so cute
leahbuechley says:
Nov 16, 2008. 7:55 AM REPLY
useful! I'd never seen those snappi connectors before. They look handy...
Babyshoes says:
Different folding technique to the ones I have seen before - looks efficient! Good instructable too.
Nov 7, 2008. 8:46 AM REPLY
Example: D-Box 2
Marianna Obrist
Example for DIY HCI
ICT&S Center
User driven modifications happen on the hardware level
as well as on the software level. From a HCI
perspective the modification of the user interface itself
is one of the most interesting aspects, which I also
address within my research on DIY HCI.
University of Salzburg
Sigmund-Haffner-Gasse 18
5020 Salzburg, Austria
[email protected]
The focus of my
research was on selfmotivated
adaptations of the
user interface of
interactive systems in
the home context.
One of the systems
taken as example to
start my research was
the “D-Box 2”, a digital set-top-box.
Copyright is held by the author/owner[s].
CHI 2007, April 28 – May 3, 2007, San Jose, USA
ACM 1-xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
The large (open source) community around the D-Box
2 is one of the main driving forces for the huge and
consistent number of user modifications provided over
the last years. Several open source projects have been
started and a lot of forums and blogs have been
created around this system, which are still active (e.g.
http://www.tuxbox.org/; http://www.dbox2.info/;
http://www.dboxforum.de/).
2
How-To-Instruction
Everyone, who is interested in having a modified D-Box
2, but doesn’t want to experiment by him-/herself gets
support on different websites (e.g.
http://www.neutrino-anleitung.de/; http://www.linuxdbox.com/), most of them also provide detailed “Howto Instructions” or a “Modification service” at low costs
– you only need to send your set top box to the
indicated address and you get back a modified D-Box 2.
interfaces (GUIS), some games, Plug-Ins and
other applications for the D-Box 2. They are
packed in one file, which is downloaded and
imported to the set-top-box (see technical
details: http://wiki.dbox2tuning.net/wiki/index.php/Images).
3.
The major steps in modifying the D-Box 2 (replacing
the original operating system with Linux and the
originally designed user interface) are described below:
1.
Neutrino is the most commonly used interface
within the D-Box 2 community. It provides a
functional, simple and clearly structured
interface comparing it to the original user
interface.
Install Linux on the digital set-top-box.
Modification of the hardware required (Debug
Mode of the D-Box 2 needed).
Figure 2: GUI (Neutrino) is loaded and
displayed on the TV screen.
Figure 1: Source: cgi.ebay.ch
2.
Connect D-Box 2 with PC and go online to get
the preferred Flash Image.
Images normally consist of a Linux operating
system, drivers, one or more graphical user
Select the GUI for the D-Box 2. Several GUIs
are available, for instance, Enigma, LCars.
4.
Start the set-top-box by using the normal
remote control. The D-Box 2 booting starts
(Debugging messages appear on the box
screen, it’s ok).
3
Figure 3: Boot Phase. Source:
http://dbox.muschikrieger.de/
Figure 5: EPG (Electronic Program Guide) of Neutrino.
The D-Box running on Linux provides the end-user an
amazing function variety: sending the audio/video data
stream over the network, a simple game console, a
video and MP3-Player, image gallery with slide show
function, weather information or a stock exchange
ticker – to mention only a few. Various Plug-Ins are
available for the different Images developed by the
community around the D-Box.
Figure 4: Starting process on the TV screen.
5.
Define the settings on the TV, for instance
selecting the language, starting the channel
search function and organize the channels by
navigating through the EPG.
The most interesting aspects regarding the D-Box 2
example are the user driven modifications, especially
related to the design of the user interface. The original
interface was replaced by several alternative user
interfaces based on Linux. Following a comparison
between the original (BetaNova GUI) and the newly –
by users developed – user interface (Neutrino) is made.
4
Figure 6 to 8 show some screenshots of the original interface of the D-Box 2 and the alternative interfaces developed by
users (source http://www.neutrino-anleitung.de/).
Original Interface
Alternative Interface (Neutrino)
Figure 6: EPG (electronic program guide) Screenshot after changing the TV Channel
Neutrino has a better performance and provides the user with more detailed information (actual
program, start and end time, time left, following program) whereas the original interface is more
obtrusive, as half of the TV screen is hidden.
5
Original Interface
Figure 7: EPG (electronic program guide) Screenshot for selecting a TV Channel
Neutrino provides a good overview, fast access by pressing the OK button and allows the viewer to
still follow the program (the TV screen remains visible).
6
Original Interface
Figure 8: TV and Radio Mode
Neutrino provides an easy selection between the two modes by pressing the Ok button only. The
navigation concept is mainly based on the use of the OK, up/down and right/left buttons therewith
supporting a fast and easy interaction.
7
Final Statement
Important Links
Compared to other digital TV receivers the modified DBox 2 provides a broad range of features and functions
to the user and an easy to use user interface. Through
several user-driven modifications the digital set top box
fits users needs better and is – after eight years – still
an attractive object of interest for many. A strong userproduct-relationship was established and maintained
over the years.
Following a list of important links is summarized for the
D-Box 2 example:
There is a growing effort of designers and developers
dedicated to empowering users by providing them
appropriate tools to become software developers by
themselves. Nevertheless, do-it-yourself activities for
end-users (non-professional users) are still not enough
supported by designers.
http://www.dboxforum.de/
http://www.dbox2.net/
http://www.tuxbox.org/
http://www.dbox2.info/
http://www.linux-dbox.com/
http://www.neutrino-anleitung.de/
http://wiki.dbox2-tuning.net/
http://forum.tuxbox.org/forum/
http://www.linuxatdbox2.de/index.html
Creating, cutting and printing your own woodblock
by rbanks on June 4, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Creating, cutting and printing your own woodblock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Getting hold of the basic tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Draw your image and copy it onto your block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Cut your block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Ink and print with your block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 5: Fix, re-cut and re-ink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Creating-cutting-and-printing-your-own-woodblock/
intro: Creating, cutting and printing your own woodblock
Here's the basic process for buying tools, cutting a woodblock, inking and then printing with it.
I've actually been trying to find a way into printing for a while, but don't have any access locally to equipment or classes. I finally came across Louise Woods' awesome
book entitled " Practical Printmaking" and realized I should just get on with something, rather than waiting for the perfect opportunity to show itself. She describes pretty
much all the printing processes, with equipment lists and great photos. I'd definitely recommend that book if you're looking for a proper, practical explanation of general
printing techniques.
I picked woodblock as the technique I wanted to learn since it requires very few tools and the piece of wood itself is typically small, so there's very little mess and the
whole thing is easy to do on the kitchen table.
As background, it's worth knowing that there are basically two ways of doing relief printing with bits of wood, woodcut and woodblock. Woodcut is a process that cuts
ALONG the grain of a piece of wood, and the grain itself often becomes part of the print, showing itself through as a texture. Woodblock, which is what I'm going to focus
on, uses really tightly grained wood that is cut across the grain (the same way you would cut through a trunk to fell a tree if you were a lumberjack). Because of the way
it's cut it's a little easier to carve. The direction you cut doesn't matter since you're looking at the end of the grain so it doesn't have a fixed direction, and your cutting tool
isn't always being pushed around by the grain. But good wood with tight grain can cost a little. We'll get into equipment and tools now...
step 1: Getting hold of the basic tools
Here's a page with the basics of what you'll need to carve and ink a woodblock.
I've actually found a great online shop here in the UK called T N Lawrence & Sons Ltd. A nice old Victorian sounding name that gives me plenty of comfort. Their site has
basically everything you need under the convenient title of Woodblock Engraving. They've been really reliable and quick. If you're not in the UK then I pity you, but I'm
sure there will be something similar near you, and at least you can visit this shop so you know what things are supposed to look like and are called.
Some wood.
I've been working primarily with small bits of wood of about 2x3 inches. I like this small size for working with because it's easy to manage, besides which decent wood for
a woodblock is pretty expensive. It's really down to what you want to pay for. The more expensive the wood, the tighter its wood grain and the harder the wood. T N
Lawrence basically has boxwood (the 'best'), lemonwood (the next best) and maple (the 'economical' wood). I've been using the maple. Economy is my middle name.
Maple is about £5 for a 2x3" piece. Hard to do the conversion to dollars with all the fluctuations in currency, besides which we're always getting ripped off here in the UK.
Something to support the wood while you're carving
You need to sit the piece of wood on something soft-ish while you're carving it so you can move it around easily (when carving you basically keep your hand in one place
and move the piece). I use a medium sized book covered with a towel. The book is a guide to potty training toddlers, but you can use whatever is handy.
A drawing to cut from and a pencil
In the end, you're going to have to do some kind of 'art' to put on your bit of wood. There are ways of transferring sketches onto the wood with transfer paper etc. I tend to
just copy it over by hand with a pencil.
A/some "graver(s)" or chisel(s) for cutting
I have 4 or 5 of these little gravers for cutting. They look so cool in the pictures. But I've really ended up only using one, the "Medium - Spitsticker". It seems very general
purpose, good for thin straight lines, and for getting around awkward corners. I'd start with one of those, and then think of picking up one of the other gravers if you feel
you need it.
Some printers ink
I've tried two types of ink - oil based and water based. I prefer the oil based. You can really tell that it takes to paper better and it's nicer to work with, but it takes a long
time to dry, and you have to deal with the smell of both it and the white spirits you'll have to use to get it off your tools. So I'm actually trying out some water based inks at
the moment. I'm not really happy with the way they take to the paper (the results seem a little more patchy and less deep) but the cleaning is a dream. These are the oil
based inks that I've used. These are the water based. The choice is yours!
A piece of glass for spreading ink onto
A roller for rolling out the ink on the glass and applying it to the wood
Some paper to print onto
I'm not much of an expert on the right paper to use for printing. I've actually been mainly using some matte, heavy weight printing paper that has a good weight and
seems to take the ink well. I'm sure there are a lot of options here. I've also tried using some blank cards from Paperchase. The ones with too heavy a texture don't seem
to work well, but some of the smoother ones have been quite successful. Some experimentation is due here.
A spoon (or equivalent) to rub down the print onto the paper
step 2: Draw your image and copy it onto your block
I'm afraid you'll have to do some sketching at some point, and there's not a lot of opportunity once you start carving for much spontaneity. Some, but not much. You pretty
much have to know what you're going to carve before actually sticking the graver in.
The two things you have to remember when sketching are that what you cut out from the wood becomes white, not black, so all those little lines you're cutting are actually
going to become the white space, and that what you draw will be flipped horizontally when you turn it over to print it. If you want a print that is predominantly white (a
'positive' one, if you like) you'll have to do a lot of carving to get rid of the black areas. Doing a 'negative' print, which is primarily white on black requires less. I'd
recommend this latter option.
When sketching I tend to jump between larger, more detailed images and small, 'to scale' ones. Buying the wood before you sketch helps, because then you can draw
around it directly into your sketchbook and use it as a frame so you know you're getting the size right.
Once I have my finalised image on paper I scan it onto my PC. This makes it easy to reverse the image color in PhotoShop or some equivalent, and see what it really
looks like as white on black. I can also then flip it horizontally for copying onto the block, since I know that once it's printed I'll get back the orientation that I originally
intended. I hand copy it over to the woodblock with a pencil. I'm happy for the copied version to not be a perfect facsimile of the original. If you're a little more fussy (which
is fine) you could use transfer paper or equivalent to trace over the original, pre-flipping version, and THEN flip it over and rub it down onto the block.
step 3: Cut your block
I think I mentioned earlier that you'll need something soft to put the block on as you cut it. There are special tools for this (aren't there always?) but a book wrapped in an
English tea-towel (or, if you must, a standard hand towel) seems to work ok. The soft surface helps hold the block in place, whilst also allowing you to move it around as
you cut. Yes, you move the block, not your hand. More on that in a second.
Put the handle of the graver in the palm of your hand and wrap your fingers around the blade so the point feels like an extension of your index finger. That's what it feels
like to me, and what it looks like in my head, although the second image below probably shows it a little clearer than what I'm trying to describe.
Keep your hand in a fairly fixed position. When it comes to cutting you'll just move it forward and backward as you need to, and move the wood beneath it with the other
hand to line up the cut. You have to figure out the angle of cut so that it's not so high that the blade keeps jamming, and not so low that it skitters too easily across the top
of the wood. Take your time. Breathe easily. But try not to make too many mistakes. Even quite shallow scratches are hard to remove and can show in the final print. This
is where patience counts. The most cathartic bit, if you like. Or the most stressful.
Be especially careful when you come to the end of a line that you're carving. It's quite easy to keep going past where you intended accidentally, and where two lines are
supposed to meet at a nice right-angle you can easily end up with them crossing one another.
step 4: Ink and print with your block
Ok, on to inking your block and printing. You need a lot less ink than you think when you come to actually printing. The key here is to be fairly frugal with the amount of
ink that you apply to your block. Add too much ink and you can end up filling in your diligently carved channels so that the final print doesn't come out with quite the sharp
contrast that you'd intended between light and dark areas. Remember, if you put too little on, you can always fix it by applying a little more. It's harder to do the reverse.
The first part of the process involves laying out a layer of ink on your piece of glass. No, you don't apply the ink directly from the tube to the block! Putting the ink on the
glass first means that you are then in a bit of control of the process, which is a pleasant illusion. You can then work on getting a really clean layer onto the roller, and then
onto the block.
Take your sheet of glass and put a blob of ink in the middle, about the size of a reasonably proportioned bean (I'm thinking of the English runner bean, here - again,
probably better to look at the pictures if you're not familiar with our vegetables). Take the roller, and start rolling the ink in one direction, then at right angles, then back to
the original direction and so on. The goal is to get a regular, rectangular layer of ink on the glass, whilst also making sure that your roller is consistently covered.
Once you think you've got your roller completely covered in a (thin) layer of ink, carefully roll it over the block. I roll it along the length of the block first, then do it across
the width. Strictly speaking you should only have to do it once in each direction, but I've sometimes (i.e. often) had to go back over it again with a second roll, just to make
sure I've got the ink right up to the edge of the block.
Once you've got the ink on the block (congratulations, by the way!) you're ready to print it out onto paper. You basically put the sheet of paper that you want to print onto
ON TOP OF the woodblock, which is ink side up, obviously, then you use the spoon to rub the paper down onto the block, as if you were doing a brass rubbing. That's
actually probably yet another useless British reference. You're just rubbing with a spoon, though. Not hard to picture.
I don't have a scientific method for lining up the paper with the block (I don't have a scientific method for anything, actually). I tend to eyeball it. You could, if you want,
figure out roughly where the paper needs to be by lining everything up first in some sort of jig, or measuring everything out, or whatever method you want to use. I don't
tend to worry about it because the paper I use tends to be bigger than the picure frames I'm putting the images in, so I can line everything up afterwards and trim off what
isn't going to show.
I'm not that happy with my printing attempt in the image below. This was actually my first attempt with the water based inks that I mentioned in step 1. It's a little patchy.
Water based ink seems to need more rubbing down to adhere to the paper. Rubbing down with the spoon can actually take some practice, and you need to make sure
you're even all over, and work right up to the edge to avoid the patchiness that I've so clearly illustrated can be a problem.
step 5: Fix, re-cut and re-ink
After the first print you can actually take a look at the image and decide what you're not happy with. With the water based inks, particularly, which dry so quickly, it's easy
then to go back and carve out a little more of the block where you want more white to show through.
It's a good idea to annotate your first print with the changes you want to make, rather than just trying to remember. It forces you to be a little more diligent about working
through problems. Then fix the problems with a little more carving and give the print another go.
That's it, really. I've stuck a couple of finished examples in the images on this page that I'm a little more happy with than the version I used throughout this explanation.
One is straight onto the heavyweight paper I mentioned that I use, and the other is a card I made for the holidays using some rather nice blank, brown stock that I picked
up from the stationery store, Paperchase. I'm not sure if Paperchase are just in the UK. I know that Borders Books and Music bought them, so they may be around in
some areas of the States.
Good luck with your project(s). Please leave comments if you have questions or corrections.
Santa Block
Print Card by
Noah by
den10studio
Full-screen
scrolling
teleprompter by
woodblock100
Linoleum block
printing jig by El
Rey
Tibetian Prayer
Flags by
DevoDevo
Quick 'n' Easy
Heart Print Card
by mjwilder787z
Make your own
Embossed
Business Cards
using Acid
Etching by
bofthem
Konata from
Lucky Star life
Size Mask Paper
craft by
animes25
Tie Dyed
PEACE Dress to
Salsa music by
littlebitsys
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Comments
leahbuechley says:
Nov 16, 2008. 7:32 AM REPLY
cool!! I did this in high school & it's so nice to be reminded of how nifty it is! I keep meaning to try using a laser cutter to etch printing blocks. Have you tried
this or seen any info about it online?
rbanks says:
Nov 17, 2008. 12:55 AM REPLY
I've used a laser cutter for etching before, using MDF, but I haven't printed with it. I've no doubt that it's possible, though, and something I've been
thinking about doing too. Let me know how you get on if you go ahead!
smokehill says:
Aug 16, 2008. 3:32 PM REPLY
This is probably a silly question, but I've never tried wood or linoleum printing, though it's always been on my list of fun things to try.
I know you can always remove more wood to "adjust" your print, but can you also go back and "fill in" mistakes with some filler material -- auto body filler, JB
Weld or some other epoxy? Or would the difference in texture be too obvious ?
I suppose on a short run of prints you could use the same ink with an artist's brush and "fill in" areas that shouldn't have been cut, too.
Just curious ....
meeze says:
Nov 8, 2008. 2:17 PM REPLY
You should try linocut printing.
Its really fun and its not very expensive.
Earliar today i linocut printed some christmas cards.
gamemaster87 says:
Aug 16, 2008. 11:44 PM REPLY
Really depends on the wood you're using. If the wood doesn't have much texture to it then using some sort of filler material wouldn't be terribly blatant
except to the trained eye. But if the woodgrain is adding to the piece and you fill it in with something, it's going to show up as a flat non-textured area.
And in either case since it's not actually part of the woodwork, it would start to deteriorate and flake/fall off. So if you do plan on filling something in, don't
plan on using the block for many prints.
Carlos Marmo says:
Oct 30, 2008. 3:18 PM REPLY
Wonderful work!
Very common in my Country.
Congratulations
frazy says:
Aug 25, 2008. 9:36 AM REPLY
Just a question: is woodblock printing method expensive??? i never tried it.
rbanks says:
Aug 25, 2008. 11:24 AM REPLY
Not awful. If you follow the list of what you need in step 1 the wood costs about £4, a basic chisel is about £11, a roller is about another £11 and the ink is
about £7. Most of that is reusable except the wood.
enginepaul says:
Jun 12, 2008. 8:13 PM REPLY
We used to glue linoleum to wood blocks for printing in small quantities. It is easier to cut and cheaper than good tight-grained wood. I'm not sure if real
linoleum is still available.
Also, a general rule for printing inks to transfer is the length of time of the impression and pressure. Pressure is a main factor, but a delayed impression
allows the ink's vehicle to transfer the ink into the paper.
smokehill says:
Aug 16, 2008. 3:24 PM REPLY
I don't think anything is still marketed with the name "linoleum" anymore, but the "vinyl composition tiles" made by Armstrong and others feel like about
the same thing. Some of the cheaper stuff is very thin and sometimes textured, but I got some very thick (one-eighth inch) Armstrong tile, I think the type
was called Excelon, for about 68 cents per one-foot square. It cuts easily with an Xacto knife and should work for lino-cuts. Also, this type is smooth, and
the material is constant all the way through, unlike some floor coverings that are just a thin layer of texture & color over something else.
Fiddling about in a big discount hardware/lumber outlet should turn up something usable, I think.
Brother_Bear says:
Jul 1, 2008. 3:17 PM REPLY
You should try MDF for a real economy alternative. Although you wont be able to make as many prints with it i think at least not if you use a roller, Should be
ok with a spoon or a metal squege(wrong spelling but iam tired) though.
arte.sano says:
Jul 1, 2008. 12:02 PM REPLY
Fantastic, great project, great instructable! one of my favs.
rbanks says:
Jul 1, 2008. 2:21 PM REPLY
Thanks!
Saint says:
Jun 7, 2008. 8:26 AM REPLY
Is there a specific reason to use thick blocks of wood? I have seen thinner plates, even plywood panels, being used to print woodcuts. It would be much
cheaper that way, and also make the process of cutting more easy since your work area is almost level.
Apart from that, there's another simple solution from keeping your wood from shifting. Take a wooden board and screw another piece at each end, like this:
II
I I--------------------------------I I
I I--------------------------------I_I
I_I
You put one end on the edge of the table and the other prevents your piece from shifting. This works best with bigger (A4 sized) woodcuts, but smaller
pieces should also work fine.
If you use a thinner piece of wood for your cut you can also just bang a nail in a cut away area somewhere in the middle. That way you can freely rotate it.
(please excuse my terrible English, I don't use it nearly often enough to get some practice)
Saint says:
Jun 7, 2008. 8:28 AM REPLY
The layout messed up my diagram a bit, but it's basicly just roughly S-shaped, with one piece sticking out on one side and the reverse side sticking out to
the other side
rbanks says:
Jun 9, 2008. 12:42 AM REPLY
I think you could get away with using any piece of wood, although all the plywood I've ever played with has an edge-on grain, which puts it in the
category of a woodcut, rather than a wood block. To be fair, you do call it a woodcut. But as I mention in the intro page, a wood block is end-grain. My
impression is that it is harder to come by end-grain wood, and that part of the point if wood bock is to use higher quality wood, with a tighter grain
structure, so you can get really fine lines etc.
I like the idea of your board. Totally get what you mean. In practice, though, I can't imagine if that would work well or badly. I'll have to give it a try.
When I'm carving I'm constantly moving the wood, and it's not such a large piece of wood that it's a problem to hold it. Having it in my hand definitely
gives me some subtle flexibility that I'd be worried the the board or the nail wouldn't have. Would be worth trying, though! Thanks for the thoughtful
comment.
Saint says:
Jul 1, 2008. 4:48 AM REPLY
The biggest advantage of edge-on is the cost, and with softer woods you don't have any problems with the grain interfering with your linework.
You can even use some kinds of plastic to make your prints. Apart from that, if you use a full-size press you can use lots more pressure, so the
grain and other small imperfections don't show up that much.
When getting to know new materials I usually go for the least expensive and easiest to use materials, so I can make lots and lots of studies.
And for the board, holding it in your hand works really well for roughly stamp-size cuts, but when you scale up and your hands get cramped it's
really nice to have something to hold your piece sturdy in place.
unjust says:
Jul 1, 2008. 9:38 AM REPLY
having done both, you can't get as fine a print out of any wood other than a nice dense end grain. you may not get grain patterning, although
on a finer print you will, but the block won't last as long, and you can have issues with grain direction determining how you make a cut, where
as endgrain you don't have to worry as much. now, that said, i've used flat stock as one or more plates in a multi color print specifically to
introduce the grain pattern to the ink.
if you're using a non-wood material (linoleum, rubber, copper, stone, etc) you're not doing a wood block print, you're doing another sort of
print (depending on the material, each of which has advantages and disadvantages)
pharmacopaeia says:
Jun 21, 2008. 9:36 PM REPLY
What a great wee tutorial.
Re: papers - supersmooth papers tend to be best as they show the most detail; rough or textured papers tend to lose some detail but if you are looking for
something a little more impressionistic or abstract then that can be cool too. Printing papers generally are available (at least in the art store I work!) in cream
or white, but hot press (ie v smooth) watercolour paper tends to work just as well. Really, you can use anything that will take the ink.
Like you I tend to prefer oil-based inks but that's because I dislike how quickly the water-based ones dry. I have done this sort of thing with school-aged
children before and just used acrylic or even poster paints, sometimes with a little medium or retarder added to increase the working time.
soundinnovation says:
Jun 12, 2008. 3:46 PM REPLY
Would this work with plexiglass or do you need actual glass?
How similar is this to using linoleum?
I've never done any printmaking but it sounds pretty cool.
justbepatient says:
Jun 12, 2008. 8:14 PM REPLY
You can roll the ink on plexiglass instead of glass.
I think the only difference between wood and linoleum are the different carving tools...
rbanks says:
Jun 13, 2008. 2:56 AM REPLY
I have a piece of linoleum that I'm just on the verge of having a go at. The tools are quite different. The linoleum is much softer, and the tools are
almost like sharp scoops for scooping out the lino. The woodblock tools are much more like very narrow chisels. I'm guessing that the woodblock is
harder going, but allows you to get much more fine detail.
If you want some lino inspiration take a look at some of the work of Stanley Donwood, who does the cover of Radiohead's albums. His cover for
Thom Yorke's solo album, the Eraser, is done in Lino.
http://www.slowlydownward.com/lv01.html
The cover was originally printed from a series of large linos, each about 2 foot by 1.5 foot. You can see the results here:
http://www.slowlydownward.com/viewslibrary02.html
So he went for a large size and a lot of the detail comes from scaling down, I think.
soundinnovation says:
Jun 13, 2008. 5:00 PM REPLY
I've seen some people working with linoleum before and they were just using exacto knives I believe. I suppose they had other tools I didn't see
that they were also using, and were using the exacto knives for more detail.
The wood gravers look like pretty much the same thing that we use on metal, but I think the technique is somewhat different.
joejoerowley says:
Jun 13, 2008. 12:21 PM REPLY
Cool! Great Instructable!
Thanks
Joe
maxman says:
Jun 12, 2008. 8:33 PM REPLY
That holiday card is wonderful. Thanks for writing this instructable. This is something I've wanted to do for a long time.
adidame says:
Jun 9, 2008. 7:07 PM REPLY
Very nice. I have also been waiting for woodblock instructions to fall in my lap. Thank you.
cookula says:
Jun 6, 2008. 10:23 PM REPLY
A great idea for someone looking for an inexpensive craft to sell at markets. Will give it a go as they cost far too much for me to buy at my local scrapbook
shop.
aphrael says:
Jun 6, 2008. 1:52 PM REPLY
that looks amazing!
Patrik says:
Jun 5, 2008. 5:21 PM REPLY
Great instructable!
I couldn't open some of your images though - for example, I can't get to the 2nd, 3rd and 4th picture in your last step....
killerjackalope says:
Jun 6, 2008. 5:42 AM REPLY
It's a small 'ibles problem, sometimes the script wont load, or possibly it's because I'm still running FF3 which gets up to a terminal loading speed which
is too fast and crashes, I refuse to fix until I get the non beta release...
rbanks says:
Jun 6, 2008. 6:28 AM REPLY
I'm seeing this on IE7. Still, taking out the single quotes seems to have done the trick.
Jun 6, 2008. 7:56 AM REPLY
Oh this is more a problem between my computer and the beta I'm using but I can't seem to find one of the other release cadidates...
darkmuskrat says:
Jun 5, 2008. 6:46 PM REPLY
same, very good tough
darkmuskrat says:
Jun 5, 2008. 6:46 PM REPLY
*though.... XP
rbanks says:
Jun 5, 2008. 11:55 PM REPLY
Good catch. Thanks. Looks like putting single quotes in the title of an image makes the thumbnail clicking code fail. Should be fixed now.
Wyle_E says:
Jun 5, 2008. 2:52 PM REPLY
Oil-based ink works best with lots of pressure. That's why printing presses are so heavily built. Instead of the spoon, consider a roller. If you bear down on a
kitchen rolling pin, you can apply heavy pressure with moderate force (because your force is concentrated along a line) without the friction you get with a
spoon.
rbanks says:
Great idea. I'll give that a try next time.
Have you had any experience with water-based inks?
Jun 5, 2008. 3:03 PM REPLY
Crisp packet folding
by nickbk on November 6, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Crisp packet folding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Empty the packet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Flatten packet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Fold bottom left-corner flush to the right hand edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Fold top edge over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Fold in half . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 6: Make a parallelogram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 7: Make a small traingle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 8: Fold bottom half upwards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 9: Get ready to fold in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
step 10: Fold in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 11: Finished! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
http://www.instructables.com/id/Crisp_packet_folding/
intro: Crisp packet folding
How to fold a crisp packet into a triangle. Very useful when space is tight, or you can't find a rubbish bin. Compare to Crisp packet Origami where the packet is folded into
a square.
step 1: Empty the packet
You might like to eat the contents before you fold the packet ;-)
step 2: Flatten packet
step 3: Fold bottom left-corner flush to the right hand edge
Note that it is important that the bottom edge is flush with the right hand edge, otherwise it all goes pear shaped later.
step 4: Fold top edge over
Fold the top (open) edge down, abutting the edge you just folded over.
step 5: Fold in half
Now fold the left half over to the right hand edge. Again, make sure it lines up neatly.
step 6: Make a parallelogram
Fold the top right hand corner down to create a parallelogram.
step 7: Make a small traingle
Fold the top left corner over to the right hand edge to create a thick triangle at the top of the packet.
step 8: Fold bottom half upwards
Now, fold the larger triangle at the bottom upwards - this is going to be inserted into the thicker triangle at the top. In the picture you can see the bottom part is folded
over, but sticking up into the air slightly.
step 9: Get ready to fold in
Pick up the packet - you should be able to open up a pocket in the thicker triangle.
step 10: Fold in
Fold the larger, thinner triangle into the pocket you just found in the smaller, thicker triangle. This can be a bit fiddly.
step 11: Finished!
You're finished. Beautiful.
Crisp Packet
origami by wii
maniac
Recycle Your
Packet Of
Crisps! by Dvdrw
Origami Cup by
UsA
cool pencil case
from crisp
packets by
pooandwee
Advertisements
One Piece
Reusable Tyvek
bag (sack) by
AriesG
Dollar Bill Ring
Bling by jeffreyf
origami tall
samurai helmit
or hat by josefu0
Origami Eye! by
UsA
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Corn and Crab Chowder
by profdaddy on November 6, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Corn and Crab Chowder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Ingredients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Meat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Margerine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 5: Flour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 6: Chicken stock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 7: Potato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 8: Crab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
step 9: Corn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 10: Creamer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
step 11: Soup! (There it is) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
http://www.instructables.com/id/Corn_and_Crab_Chowder/
intro: Corn and Crab Chowder
My wife is allergic to cow's milk so she misses out on lots of tasty foods. Like creamy soups that are perfect as we move into fall and winter and/or when the furnace
blows up on the first cold night of the season. Since we met both conditions last week, I decided it was time to get around that cow's milk thing and whip up this corn and
crab chowder. No cow's milk, light on potatoes since I have diabetes (yet another dietary restriction to deal with).
step 1: Ingredients
4 oz pancetta, prosciutto, or good ol' bacon
1 medium onion, diced
1/2 cup chopped celery, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
6 Tbsp Fleischmann's Unsalted Stick Margarine
1/2 cup flour
64 oz low-sodium chicken broth
1 small Idaho potato, 1/4-1/2 inch diced
16 oz lump crabmeat
1 sweet red bell pepper, diced
16 oz whole kernel corn
1 Tbsp Tabasco sauce
1 tsp Old Bay Seasoning
1 Tbsp chopped thyme
2 pint cartons Silk Creamer (soy based)
step 2: Meat
Chop the pancetta into small strips. Cook over medium heat in a stockpot for 2-3 minutes or until crisp.
step 3: Vegetables
Add celery, garlic, and onion to the pot. Stir and cook until soft but not browned (about 4-5 min).
step 4: Margerine
Add stick margarine, stirring in until melted. You could always use butter or any margarine for this, but I used the Fleischmann's brand since it's cow milk free.
step 5: Flour
Add flour, stirring until mixed with the other ingredients in the pot. Let cook for about 3 min, stir and scrape the bottom of the pot every 30 seconds or so. Pull the pot off
the heat the flour mixture starts to brown/burn. The end product should look and feel sticky since it's going to thicken up the chowder.
step 6: Chicken stock
Add chicken stock with a whisk to blend the flour mixture and liquid.
step 7: Potato
Add the diced potato. Season with salt and pepper and increase the heat to medium high. Cook and stir the pot occasionally for about 10 min or until it comes to a boil.
Note this is a place where one could add more potato or even omit completely. Again, I went with a small one to get some of the taste but without lots of the carbs that I
can do without.
step 8: Crab
Turn heat to medium, and let the soup simmer for 10-15 min until the potatoes are tender. While you're waiting, put the crabmeat into a large bowl. Break it apart and
remove any pieces of shell you find. Add to the soup once the potatoes are soft.
step 9: Corn
Add corn, red bell pepper, thyme, Old Bay, and Tabasco. The Tabasco/cayenne is purely optional, but it adds a nice kick. Old Bay and crab just belong together. The red
pepper is going to give a little sweetness to the mix, hence adding it now rather than cooking with the other vegetables in step 3.
step 10: Creamer
Gradually stir in the Silk Creamer (or light cream if you want a cow milk version). Let simmer for 2-3 min until warmed through.
step 11: Soup! (There it is)
I had some fresh chives sitting around for this one, so I chopped them up and added to the mix. You could ignore this step or play with different herbs at the end (e.g.,
parsley, rosemary...scallions might make a nice addition to each bowl).
Short of that, you're now free to grab a bowl and dig in!
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Comments
2 comments
Add Comment
jdege says:
Dec 19, 2008. 7:18 PM REPLY
Chowder is supposed to be a lot thicker than that. You need a lot more potatoes.
profdaddy says:
Dec 19, 2008. 8:36 PM REPLY
True, but I had two constraints. One, be dairy free. Two, be diabetic friendly...hence the minimal potato. However, the corn, crab, and other stuff kinda
makes it taste better than you'd imagine (or I originally imagined).
Don't Do It Yourself: Start a Book Publishing Empire with Mechanical Turk
by bpunkt on November 6, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Don't Do It Yourself: Start a Book Publishing Empire with Mechanical Turk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Brainstorm topics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Create Mechanical Turk HITs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 3: Collect responses. Edit & clean up. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Layout & print your own book. Wait. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Receive book in mail. Rejoice. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: Promote your book online. Become an instant best seller. Profit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
6
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
7
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
http://www.instructables.com/id/Dont_Do_It_Yourself_Start_a_Book_Publishing_Empi/
intro: Don't Do It Yourself: Start a Book Publishing Empire with Mechanical Turk
So you want to start you own book publishing empire. But who is going to write those books? And who is going to draw the illustrations? Let others do it for you! The
anonymous online masses are brimming with stories waiting to be told and images waiting to be drawn.
Here are instructions on how to publish a fully illustrated coffee table book by collecting text and images with Amazon's Mechanical Turk, then printing the book on
demand with Blurb.com. This instructable covers how to source, edit, layout, print and promote a book that is written and illustrated by others, for you.
step 1: Brainstorm topics
How do you get other people to write and illustrate for you? Paying them helps. But you don't want to invest a fortune. The trick is to pay people a little for stories they
want to tell anyways. They feel good for sharing their stories, you feel even better because you get content for your book.
First brainstorm some topics that people want to write about. My wife Tania suggested to make a book about pets. Specifically, cats. Every cat owner loves to tell you
about how fluffy Zooey is, how cute it is when Gary drinks out of the sink, how amazing Socks' toilet flush trick is, etc.
In addition to thinking about topics for stories, also think about good visuals. Asking people to draw paper clips is unlikely to result in a lot of interesting submissions. If
you ask them to draw a cutaway view of a combustion engine, they'll say no because that's too complicated. Babies, pets, stuffed animals, favorite places - keep it simple
but emotionally rich.
step 2: Create Mechanical Turk HITs
With your topic in mind, it's time to ask people to contribute. The most efficient and economical way to do this is through Amazon Mechanical Turk. The basic idea behind
Mechanical Turk is that "requesters" post different jobs that "workers" fulfill. In turn, workers get paid by requesters. A job is called a HIT, for human intelligence task.
To become a requester, you need to create and account on the Mechanical Turk Requester Site and add some money to your account ($5-$10 should be enough).
So let's create our first HIT - the MTurk interface is really geared towards people who want to take big data sets of things and match them with big groups of people. For
example, when adventurer Steve Fossett went missing, friends of his uploaded thousands of satellite images (the big data set) and got a big set of workers to look at
each individual image to determine if a crashed plane was visible in the image. But that kind of functionality is not really what we want: we just want to ask one simple
question, but get a lot of responses. So in the Mechanical Turk requester interface, we'll skip the default options and select the "Create HITs individually" link.
In the individual HIT creation form, enter a title, description, and keyword. For example:
Title: Tell a story about your Cat
Description: What's the craziest thing your cat has ever done? Write one paragraph.
Keywords: writing, cats, pets, creativity,
1 or 2 days should be enough as an expiration date. To collect stories, choose the "plain text" answer format. Then select how many answers you'd like. 50 to 100 is a
good start. The going rate is around $.05 to $.10 for a story or a picture.
Submit your task, then enter another, asking for images instead of stories. For the second task, your answer type will be "file upload" - ask workers to draw pictures on
their computer (or scan them in), then send those files to you.
Then wait for the answers to trickle in.
step 3: Collect responses. Edit & clean up.
Once your tasks have expired, it's time to download the responses. Mechanical Turk stuffs all responses into a CSV (comma separated value) file, which you can easily
import in Excel or other spreadsheet programs. Most of the table is metadata we don't care about - for my example of cat stories, the last colum contains all the text
participants entered. I copied the entire column into a word processor for editing.
Select the top stories.This is the time for quality control - just because you paid $.05 for a story doesn't mean it's good enough to be included. If you need more, just
launch another task. Fix grammar and spell1ng errorz. Your name will be on the book eventually (as an editor), so take care of the details.
For illustration tasks, your spreadsheet will contain a column of URLs to download each file. As I found out, most people will just launch Microsoft paint and draw low
resolution pixelated images. But those have a nice aesthetic of their own. However, to print those images in a book, you'll have to increase the resolution of the file
without losing the boxy aesthetic along the way. Don't count on the printer to do this for you. The solution is to upsample the image using a "nearest neighbor" scaling.
Photoshop offers this setting in its image size dialog (see screen capture)- other image editors probably have similar settings.
step 4: Layout & print your own book. Wait.
Now that all the raw content is ready, it's time for layout. I recommend to keep it simple and stick with BookSmart, a free layout program from Blurb. Blurb is an ondemand publisher: you create your layour in their software, upload to their server, and 10 days later, a nicely bound full-color book arrives by mail.
When laying out a book of significant length, too many options are your enemy - with professional programs like InDesign I'd probably spend two days just putting
templates together. In BookSmart, I laid out a 40-page book in an evening.
This is your last chance to double check graphics and text! Once you are happy with the preview, upload your book and order a copy for yourself. This is the priciest part,
as a hardcover book + shipping usually costs $30-$40. You have to order one copy for yourself before you can sell to others. Sneaky, I know.
Wait for the book to arrive.
step 5: Receive book in mail. Rejoice.
This is the best part: the book arrives - it's real! You can touch it!
You'll inevitably find typos and other mistakes - those are a fact of life. Move on.
Take some glamour shots of it before too many grubby fingers get it all dirty.
step 6: Promote your book online. Become an instant best seller. Profit.
Finally, it's time to recoup all of your investments. Time to wear the self-promotion hat: Make a web page with pictures and back story about your book. Link to the book's
blurb page on your site to let others buy the book. Then think about the right kind of blogs to advertise your book on.
Technorati's Top 100 Blogs are a good place to start. For my "Amazing but true stories about cats," I targeted BoingBoing, some pet sites, and some blogs about selfpublishing.
Surprisingly enough, total strangers are perfectly willing to spend $20 to $30 on a neat idea. You won't get much of a cut per book from Blurb if you want to keep the book
affordable - $1 to $5 is probably reasonable.
If you're diligent about promotion, eventually a royalty check from Blurb will land in your mailbox. I made $42.15 on the first check. That's barely breaking even, but all
publishing empires start small...
How to
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(For Fun and
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The Project
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How to Make a
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Davies by
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Coupon Book
made from old
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"Composition
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How to Make a
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Book shelf?
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How To Enter
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Comments
suziwollman says:
Nov 26, 2008. 4:33 PM REPLY
How does www.blurb.com compare to www.lulu.com? I've used lulu a bit and am really happy with it, but haven't done enough to know what's best.
lolcat360 says:
Nov 16, 2008. 2:42 PM REPLY
My dad now thinks everything has a virus, so I'm just wondering if it does. Please reply ASAP.
superlox3 says:
Nov 15, 2008. 7:43 AM REPLY
Thank you So much for this instrucable!
I'm not really planning on Turking it for content, but thanks to you I've found Blurb; which I think is a great way to publish a book online to sell!
Thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou!
raggyrat says:
Nov 14, 2008. 1:19 AM REPLY
thanks for this - i have only just been looking at blurb.com via flickr, and up pops your instructable, nice to get another veiw and some tips on promoting ...
did you get the 7by7 book ? xxx
bpunkt says:
Nov 14, 2008. 7:18 AM REPLY
Yes, it's a 7x7 coffee table book.
rawoo1 says:
Nov 14, 2008. 6:08 AM REPLY
What about the issue of obtaining permission to use their material for your publication? Do you obtain consent? Thanks
bpunkt says:
Nov 14, 2008. 7:17 AM REPLY
IANAL, but it is my understanding that, by the standard contract, work that turkers perform for you is "work for hire." The requester owns the rights to the
work afterwards. Being explicit about that fact in your task description is probably a good idea though.
killerdark says:
Nov 7, 2008. 5:08 PM REPLY
Cool idea. I'm a bit worried about MTurks that take a shortcut and start copying from copyrighted works though.
bpunkt says:
Nov 13, 2008. 11:26 AM REPLY
jhaas: I believe the danger of running into copy-and-paste problems can be mitigated by
1) phrasing your task to emphasize that you want personal experiences.
2) doing a sanity-check after submission. For the cat book, I discarded any image that looked like it could have been scanned in or taken from a different
context.
Overall, this has not been a big problem. People want to tell their stories - you just have to ask nicely.
zachninme says:
They don't get paid unless you approve it, as I recall. Even if you don't, they don't know that ;-)
Nov 8, 2008. 6:29 PM REPLY
jdege says:
Nov 7, 2008. 2:45 PM REPLY
I guess I'm an old fart.
I'm writing my book in LaTeX.
(But then, I need index, glossary, bibliography, figures, tables, lists of figures, lists of tables, embedded mathematical formulae, etc,)
I won't claim an extraordinary expertise, but I've found that the simpler products only work well with the simpler projects. If you're producing something of
complexity, you need something like TeX or FrameMaker.
bpunkt says:
Nov 13, 2008. 11:23 AM REPLY
jdege: I think it's mostly about picking the right tool for the right job. When I do layout for our design magazine Ambidextrous I of course work in a
professional tool like InDesign. But for a coffee table book like the one I described here, lack of options in the layout software is actually desirable for me,
because I stay focused on the big point and don't get lost in details.
Video editing is another great example: If you're making a feature-length movie, you'll probably want a professional package like FinalCutPro. However, if
you're putting together a quick prototype or a short instructional video, something less featureful (iMovie, Camtasia Studio) will likely suffice and be much
faster.
Each tool brings with it its own work style. I like to find a good match between that style and the task at hand.
jktechwriter says:
Nov 7, 2008. 7:22 AM REPLY
Nice suggestions here - I have completed books and workbooks using both self-publishing and the normal publishing-house method - self-publishing is
definitely growing in popularity, but you've got to really hit on a major topic to compete with the $5000, $8000, and $12000 advances offered these days for
non-fiction titles. It can be done (one of my self-published workbooks has sold around 500 copies at a $9 markup ($4500 profit) but that's only after 2 years
of selling - you've got to have patience).
I'll have to keep your Turk suggestion in mind for future work ideas... thanks!
jhaas71 says:
Nov 11, 2008. 1:37 PM REPLY
Hey jktechwriter...how did you go about self publishing your workbooks..my wife has one she finally finished and has been looking for a way to do it, but
there are so many out there to work with and such, she doesn't know where to start..so I thought of looking on here to see what I can find out for
her..how did you go about your self published on that sold 500 copies - feel free to contact me directly if you can. Thanks.
Dulce de Leche
by faludi on January 23, 2007
Table of Contents
intro: Dulce de Leche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Ingredients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Remove Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Admire Can . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Fill Pot with Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 5: Place Can in Pot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: Boil Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 7: Simmer 4 Hours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 8: Remove Can . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 9: Open Cooled Can . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 10: Eat and Enjoy! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
9
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
9
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
http://www.instructables.com/id/Dulce-de-Leche/
intro: Dulce de Leche
Dulce de leche is a delicious caramel-like candy made from milk and sugar that's popular in many South American countries. It's called confiture de lait in French, and
doce de leite in Portuguese, No matter what your language, this is a tasty treat to spread on toast, layer into pies and ice cream, or eat straight, one spoonful at at time.
Flavor heaven is as easy as cooking a can! The following instructions will teach you how to make your own.
Please note that there's a small possibility of explosion when you cook a can. This risk can be greatly reduced by making sure that the can is covered with water at all
times.
Image Notes
1. dulce de leche goes in your mouth
step 1: Ingredients
You'll need:
1 can of sweetened condensed milk
That's it. Don't use evaporated milk, it's totally different. Has to be sweetened & condensed.
Image Notes
1. Don't use evaporated milk! It has to be Sweetened Condensed Milk.
step 2: Remove Label
Peel the paper label off the can.
Image Notes
1. You also might want to remove the glue.
step 3: Admire Can
The can is so shiny, so silver, so not like anything else you have ever cooked.
Image Notes
1. Shiny!
2. Leave the can sealed. You'll cook it like this.
step 4: Fill Pot with Water
Fill a large pot with water.
step 5: Place Can in Pot
Put the can into the pot of water. The water should totally cover the can at all times.
step 6: Boil Water
Bring the water to a nice rolling boil.
step 7: Simmer 4 Hours
Cover and simmer over low heat for 4 hours. The can should always be covered with water, so add more as needed.
If you like your dulce de leche a little runny then maybe 3 hours will do the trick.
Image Notes
1. Check frequently to make sure the boiling water always covers the can.
step 8: Remove Can
After 4 hours of boiling a can, it gets blazing hot. Use tongs to remove the can from the water, and place on a rack to cool completely.
Note that that can may bulge because it is under pressure. Do not open the can while it is still hot.
Image Notes
1. Can will be blazing hot!
step 9: Open Cooled Can
When the can is totally cooled off, it's finally time to open it. It may take an hour or more for the can to cool down, but the wait is worth it.
Image Notes
1. Wait for can to cool completely.
step 10: Eat and Enjoy!
Everyone loves dulce de leche! Eat it with a spoon or try with vanilla ice cream.
It's good to cook a can!
Image Notes
1. Yummy!
Image Notes
1. dulce de leche goes in your mouth
How to cook (an
introduction) by
drinkmorecoffee
Devilish
pumpkin devil's
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trsinger
Roasted Hot
Pepper Sauce
(original recipe)
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How to Make
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Chocolate Chip
Cookies by
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Cookie Periodic
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Periodic Table
of Aliments" by
maicoh
How to Hold a
Corner Store
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by
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How to make
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Delectable
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Tantalizing
Recipes by
Shifrin
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Comments
view all 71 comments
bonniejean says:
Sep 23, 2007. 4:30 PM REPLY
MY MOTHER USED TO MAKE A PIE THE SAME WAY, WITH THE SWEETENED CONDENSED MILK, AND AFTER 3 HOURS, SHE WOULD PUT IT IN A
PIE SHELL AND ADD CHOPPED PECANS ON TOP AND SERVE IT WITH WHIPPED CREAM, SHE CALLED IT CARAMEL PIE. WE ARE FRENCH
CANADIAN, I DON'T KNOW WHERE SHE GOT THE RECIPE, BUT I NEVER KNEW UNTIL NOW, READING THIS SITE, THAT IT IS POPULAR IN
SOUTH AMERICA, I'VE HEARD OF DULCE DE LECHE, BUT NEVER KNEW IT WAS THE SAME THAT MY MOTHER MADE.
chad oliver says:
Dec 15, 2008. 6:30 PM REPLY
Pie . . . that sound nice.
(but please, don't yell)
cyberpunk007 says:
Feb 24, 2007. 12:38 AM REPLY
Thank you! I must say, it is quite good. Boiled two cans today in fact. As stated time and time again, let the can cool completely before opening! It may take
up to five hours to let it cool properly!
janquito says:
Dec 1, 2008. 12:22 PM REPLY
Couldn't you just put the can in cold water to cool the can faster?
cyberpunk007 says:
Dec 1, 2008. 1:16 PM REPLY
Don't know. Thermodynamics isn't really my thing. I suspect one of three things could happen: 1. The rapid cooling causes the liquid/gases inside the
can to compress, crushing the can with the possibility of rupturing and throwing molten goo all over the kitchen and your body 2. The rapid cooling
would cause a major change in the consistency and/or flavor of the Dulce de Leche, possibly leading to lumps 3. The can would cool off significantly
faster with no ill side effects.
The lesson learned here: Experiment, holding only yourself liable for any accidents. ;)
ax89 says:
Nov 29, 2008. 11:03 AM REPLY
Making dulce de leche is clearly a man's job - because it involves fire and danger of explosions! (much like barbecuing) :)) :D
I never knew this was so easy - I have justed added this to my grocery list. Here in Canada, we get Eagle Brand sweetened condensed milk.
cas6767 says:
Nov 24, 2008. 11:23 AM REPLY
Wow tasty and explosive, nice. I was expecting a cake but then I realized that's tres leches which is also delicious. You should put dulce de leche on tres
leches and invent the quad leches.
Arkarinum says:
Nov 24, 2008. 9:53 AM REPLY
It can be prepared in less time using a "pressure cooker". Here in Brazil we do it this way. If you want, I can send you the recipe!
PS: But I prefer doing it your way, it's easier. =P
leahbuechley says:
Nov 21, 2008. 10:01 AM REPLY
I had a wonderful columbian roommate who used to make this all the time. Thanks for reminding me of this delicious trick! Yuuummmmm.....
Kizer says:
Oct 29, 2008. 7:50 PM REPLY
This is a great recipe. I spent a year in Brazil in High School and enjoyed Doce de leite while there. They would serve it with fried cinnamon bread on the
street in the neighborhood I lived in. I found it again recently in a Brazilian store, which brought me to this web page. It is much better made this way than
what I have ever had. Goes to show homemade is best.
ulor says:
Sep 5, 2008. 9:06 PM REPLY
This can be made in the microwave in about 20 minutes. This is not my recipe, but gleaned from elsewhere you put the milk in a bowl and microwave at 2
minute intervals on 1/2 power (so if 10 is the highest go for 5) and then check it every 2 minutes until its done. Takes about 20 minutes from what I
understand and no risk of explosion. Also another tip I saw somewhere else was punching two small holes in the top with nails which would prevent pressure
build up. Just thought I would share some great tips I saw elsewhere.
rainCheck says:
Jul 19, 2008. 5:17 PM REPLY
You have beautiful eyes
zachninme says:
Mar 13, 2007. 8:45 PM REPLY
Just pointing out, sweetened condensed milk = evaporated milk + sweet;
I don't know why they call it something else, they just do. But, for this, you need the former.
PKM says:
Mar 10, 2008. 11:30 AM REPLY
Really? I thought evaporated milk was like cream and condensed milk was more like this toffee-esque stuff. I believe this (boiled condensed milk or
confiture de lait or whatever you call it) is the eponymous -offee from banoffee pie.. at least it is the way I've always seen it made.
Anyway- it's de leche us! Sorry, couldn't resist.
akahn says:
Apr 17, 2007. 10:38 PM REPLY
Do you suppose one could do this with a can of evaporated milk and then sweeten it at the end? I ask because I have a can of evaporated milk leftover
from a housemate that moved out. I have no use for the milk, and would love to make dulce de leche. Any creative ideas?
zachninme says:
Apr 19, 2007. 10:00 AM REPLY
I doubt it, as I would assume the sugars would carmalize, something you can't just add at the end.
Condensed milk is what, $1.30? Thats less than a bottle of chocolate syrup.
akahn says:
Apr 19, 2007. 10:20 AM REPLY
Of course, but now I have absolutely no use for this evaporated milk!
aiden120000 says:
Jul 29, 2007. 7:39 AM REPLY
use it instead of custard, if you have that in the usa.
binnie says:
Apr 26, 2007. 2:47 AM REPLY
feed teh starving little kids in africa then
or just bin it
rimar2000 says:
FROM ARGENTINA TO THE WORLD:
Yes, this it is A way to make it. But THE way is:
1) 3 liters of milk (it can be light)
Feb 5, 2007. 10:33 AM REPLY
2) 1 Kg white sugar
3) 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda (bicarbonato de sodio)
The essence of vanilla is unnecessary at all. Mix all cold (or better warm) in a pot that can contain 8 liters at least, and boil during 2 - 3 hours. The exact point
is when the preparation takes half brown color, and when cooling totally in a tablespoon one can give turn this without it spills out.
During the boil it's necessary to watch over that the milk doesn't spill out. Once obtained the good point of the flame, the milk boils indefinitely without being
overturned. Every ten minutes it suits to revolve the preparation to avoid that it sticks in a layer in the bottom of the pot.
And then, to eat it to spoonfuls and being sucked the fingers!
ATTENTION, to eat dulce de leche puts on weight!
pharoah says:
Apr 15, 2007. 1:52 PM REPLY
It's not often you see metric measurements and teaspoons together :P
wickedsp says:
Mar 6, 2008. 8:31 PM REPLY
there are teaspoons all over the world, you know?
Digital_Anarchy says:
Jun 13, 2007. 2:54 PM REPLY
isn't it? i use metric + teaspoons for cooking. ive got no idea how much 7 ounces is, and a teaspoon full means alot more to me than 15ml.
i think most metric using people here in the UK uses teaspoon ect aswell.
aiden120000 says:
Jul 29, 2007. 7:34 AM REPLY
yep i do, but you wouldnt say 5ml of olive oil would you
canida says:
Feb 5, 2007. 5:12 PM REPLY
If you make some be sure to take pictures!
Learning how to identify the proper color of brown seems to be the important part, and can really only be taught by example.
rimar2000 says:
Feb 6, 2007. 10:21 AM REPLY
Yes, it is.
I have not made dulce de leche almost for two years, because I eat up all and I am too obese. The color can vary a quite wide range, as well as the
consistency. Only the practice will teach you to make it. You can begin with a liter of milk, 333 g of sugar and a bicarbonate tiny piece, that which
reduces the time of boil to less than the half. Then you go adjusting the quantities.
Marcos says:
Feb 5, 2007. 4:39 PM REPLY
Gracias rimar20001,
Now you're making me miss Argentina again!
It is indeed delicious, and ubiquitous in Argentina, on every table, even in little packets along with fruit jams, or in less commercial places, little terra cotta
pots, holding about 1/4 cup.
Y los alfajores (2 cookies with goo in between, often "dulce", que ricos! (they taste great).
Ay que ver, rimar2000, tu conoces a manejarlo! ;-)
rimar2000 says:
Feb 6, 2007. 10:31 AM REPLY
In Argentina, like in USA and everywhere, there are people that make the things well and others that the only thing that interests them is to make
money. There is dulce de leche good and cheap, and an entire range until arriving to the one that is bad and expensive. There are trademarks that
have been made a reputation with the help of propaganda, but that I don't want them neither as gift. (Sorry my poor english).
wickedsp says:
Mar 6, 2008. 8:30 PM REPLY
rimar2000 is right, dulce de leche is made as he says, but to be honest, in the recipe i knew, you need a vanilla bean.
deadleader says:
Jan 2, 2008. 11:19 PM REPLY
I actually did this with evaporated milk and to be honest it turned out quite well. Seeing as how I've never made it with this method(yet), I'm not sure the taste
difference but it tasted just like caramel, perhaps sweeter. Not sure why it worked seeing as how there is an overwhelming number of people saying it
doesn't...enlightenment, please?
idontcare says:
Jul 14, 2007. 7:39 PM REPLY
it takes soooooooo long to make it.
is there a shorter way?
BurningLance says:
Jul 23, 2007. 2:22 AM REPLY
If you have a pressure cooker, you can shorten the cooking time to around an hour. This is how we used to do it at home during weekends.
BurningLance says:
Jul 23, 2007. 1:23 AM REPLY
When I was a kid my mom used to bring us this treat from work (hospital).
Instead of boiling the cans of milk, they are wrapped in a piece of cloth and put inside the autoclave together with the linens and bedsheets.
They always come out perfect, fresh and sterilized! Healthy!!! What more can you ask for?
ColumbusGEEK says:
Jul 13, 2007. 12:17 PM REPLY
I had no idea, thanks for cluing me in.
zachninme says:
Jun 9, 2007. 12:29 PM REPLY
They just made this on Good Eats, except they didn't use condensed milk, they started with just whole milk and added sugar and vanilla.
zachninme says:
Jun 9, 2007. 12:29 PM REPLY
They used rimar's method, now that I think of it:
1) 3 liters of milk (it can be light)
2) 1 Kg white sugar
3) 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda (bicarbonato de sodio)
grunch says:
May 18, 2007. 6:35 PM REPLY
My Aunts have been making this since I was a kid. Each kid got on at Christmas. It's very good!
binnie says:
May 15, 2007. 6:23 AM REPLY
does it have to be sealed > ive seen it done with the milk stuff on a double boiler > the gas > a pot of water > the mix with this in it
it looks almost the same and it was VERY VERY SWEET!
magician13134 says:
May 13, 2007. 11:22 AM REPLY
Wasn't there a big joke about Dulce de Leche in 'Guys and Dolls' in the Havannah Escapade scene?
kastsanity says:
May 2, 2007. 8:13 AM REPLY
I've made this before for my french ap exam and I researched a recipe where you can add sweetened coco powder for flaor if you want. by the way, you
don't have to cook it in the can if you don't like the chances of explosion. you can actually just heat it directly in a casserol pan. but the idea of cooking it in
the can is appealing because less mess to clean _ . Add walnut for crunch _ their declicious with coco too.
Mr.Bean says:
Apr 18, 2007. 8:33 PM REPLY
i'm doing this right now but when boiling it makes a really annoying thudding sound.
binnie says:
Apr 26, 2007. 2:52 AM REPLY
would it be can hitting pan?
Mr.Bean says:
i have no idea what you just said but you can just put the can on its side
Apr 26, 2007. 8:19 PM REPLY
acaz93 says:
Feb 6, 2007. 8:06 PM REPLY
Even When In Mexico Is A Classic I Doubt The Recipe
THANKS DUDE
Here In Mexico }Is Called Cajeta And It's Made Out Of Goat Milk
Is tasty , Like Haagen Dazs
'Later
Mr.Bean says:
Apr 18, 2007. 8:06 PM REPLY
mmmmmm........GOAT MLK!
nancynel1 says:
Mar 6, 2007. 3:48 PM REPLY
When I was a little girl growing up in the Chicago area, a friend's mother, who was quite exotic and beautiful-looking to this little blonde would make the most
marvelous STUFF in a tin--for years I have tried to reproduce it. I have had failure after failure! And thus satisfied myself and my longing with caramel
frosting in a can! And now I can no longer find even that--anywhere--so I have been very careful to have only a smidge at a time! So I made a Google search
of dulce de leche--and came up with this fantastic recipe! I just took the tins carefully out of the softly boiling water with great concern to cool them on racks (i
made 4, as I have read several of the entries longing to have made more than just 1)--and tonight will be the grand opening! I shall get back to you....
nancynel1 says:
Mar 6, 2007. 6:51 PM REPLY
Wow...it's nicer than I remember, and softer. Perhaps my friends's mother had stored it in the fridge..It made me smile to taste it. Thanks for your clever
site, and delicious confection.
T3h_Muffinator says:
Mar 4, 2007. 6:27 PM REPLY
MMMM Looks tasty!
lemonie says:
Feb 11, 2007. 3:36 AM REPLY
I was chatting with a French lass some years ago, when her flatmate appeared to inform her that "one of her tins had exploded". By the time we reached her
flat the other one had gone too. The whole kitchen was sprayed with toffee, I laughed and laughed and laughed (quietly to myself). Attempts to clean up just
resulted in brown smears, the whole room had to be redecorated...
To reiterate - do not allow your pan to boil dry.
Tomas says:
also is called MANJAR... in europe they doesn't know of its exsitence... very nice sweet by the way
view all 71 comments
Feb 9, 2007. 4:11 PM REPLY
Fabric Proximity Sensing | CNMAT
http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/recipe/fabric_proximity_sensing
Home
Fabric Proximity Sensing
Fri, 2008-11-07 20:13 — Adrian Freed
Video:
Most sensing applications of e-textiles use switching, piezoresistivity or optics for direct touch sensing. This instructable
shows you how to start exploring another approach - capacitive sensing to measure touch and proximity. It is based on
the easy-to-use, cheap capacitance sensing chip evaluation board from Atmel/Qtouch and takes only minutes to create.
Ingredients:
E240B evaluation board
Ni/Cu Fabric Tape with conductive adhesive
Steps:
1 of 7
12/18/08 11:13 AM
Identify the plates where the capacitance is measured. Notice the thin conductive PCB trace between each larger plate.
2 of 7
12/18/08 11:13 AM
Cut strips of conductive fabric or tape or embroidered thread. The advantage of the Laird tape is that it has the
conductive adhesive so it can be taped directly to the pads as shown below:
3 of 7
12/18/08 11:13 AM
Notice the thinner strip between the larger ones. This carries the ground along and helps the chip separate closely spaced
gestures.
4 of 7
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Notice how far away the gesture is from the board and led’s.
Use grounded conductive strips to shield the sensing strips from parts you don’t want sensed.
Experiment with different capacitor values to adjust sensitivity for your application and for the fabrics you choose
(C1-C4).
5 of 7
12/18/08 11:13 AM
Even woven conductive fabric arrays like this one from Christy Matson (http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/node/6554) can be
used:
Related Links
http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/user/adrian_freed/blog/2008/11/07
/demonstrating_zoned_proximity_sensing_fabric_woven_interleaved_co (1)
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Copyright © 2008 Regents of the University of California at Berkeley. All rights reserved.
Administrative Contact: Richard Andrews <[email protected]>
Center for New Music and Audio Technologies
1750 Arch Street
Berkeley, California
94720 U.S.A.
(510) 643-9990
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12/18/08 11:13 AM
Fabric Bend Sensor
by Plusea on August 9, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Fabric Bend Sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Materials and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 2: Make a Stencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 3: Preparing Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 4: Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 5: Closing the sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 6: Poppers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 7: Multimeter Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
step 8: Software Visualization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
http://www.instructables.com/id/Fabric_bend_sensor/
intro: Fabric Bend Sensor
Using conductive thread, Velostat and neoprene, sew your own fabric bend sensor.
This bend sensor actually reacts (decreases in resistance) to pressure, not specifically to bend. But because it is sandwiched between two layers of neoprene (rather
sturdy fabric), pressure is exerted while bending, thus allowing one to measure bend (angle) via pressure. Make sense? Watch below:
Video
So basically you could use most any pressure sensor to measure bend, but this one I find gives me the best results (sensitivity) for measuring the bend of human joints
when attached to the body. It is sensitive enough to register even slight bend and has a large enough range to still get information when the limbs are fully bent.
This sensor is really very simple, easy to make and cheap compared to buying one. I've also found it to be reliable enough for my needs.
I am also selling these handmade fabric bend sensors via Etsy. Although it is much cheaper to make your own, purchasing one will help me support my
prototyping and development costs >>
http://www.etsy.com/shop.php?user_id=5178109
To see this sensor in action have a look at the following video. The dancer has fabric bend sensors (the same as this Instructable shows) attached to her: Underarms,
elbows, wrists, shoulders, hips and feet.
Video
There is a Bluetooth module on the dancer's back that is transmitting all of the sensor information to a computer that is then triggering instruments (LEMUR's musical
robots) to play. For more info visit:
http://kobakant.at/index.php?menu=2&project=4
There is another video at the end of this Instructable that shows you it in wearable action!
step 1: Materials and Tools
MATERIALS:
The materials used for the sensor are basically cheap and off-the-shelf. There are other places that sell conductive fabrics and Velostat, but LessEMF is a convenient
option for both, especially for shipping within North America.
Velostat is the brand name for the plastic bags in which sensitive electronic components are packaged in. Also called anti-static, ex-static, carbon based plastic. (So you
can also cut up one of these black plastic bags if you have one at hand. But caution! Not all of them work!)
To make the sensor fully fabric one can use EeonTex conductive textile (www.eeonyx.com) instead of the plastic Velostat, but at the moment EeonTex conductive textile
is only available in a minimum of 100yds.
The exact neoprene i used for the bend sensor is:
quality: HS
thickness: 1,5 mm
both sides: nylon- / polyesterjersey (standard)
one side: grey, other side: neon green
but you can defiantly try and experiment with different qualities and thicknesses!
also with different materials. i can imagine that foam rubber and similar will work.
one good thing about the neoprene is that it has jersey fused to either side which gives it a nice feel against the skin but also makes sewing easier, as stitches otherwise
rip through the plain neoprene.
- Conductive thread from www.sparkfun.com ( also see http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/resource/conductive_thread)
- Neoprene from www.sedochemicals.com
- Stretch conductive fabric from www.lessemf.com (also see http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/resource/stretch_conductive_fabric)
- Fusible interfacing from local fabric store
- Regular sewing thread from local fabric store
- Velostat by 3M from www.lessemf.com (also see http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/resource/velostat_resistive_plastic)
- Machine poppers/snaps from local fabric store
TOOLS:
- Pen and paper
- Ruler
- Fabric and paper scissors
- Iron
- Sewing needle
- Popper/snap machine (handheld or hammer and simple version)
- Possibly pliers for undoing poppers
For connecting to your computer:
I'm not going to go into detail here, because this Instructable is really more about the sensor itself and less about this connection. But if you have question just send me
message.
- Arduino physical computing platform from www.sparkfun.com
- Arduino software free from www.arduino.cc
- Processing programming environment free from www.processing.org
- Crocodile clips from www.radioshack.com
- A pullup or pulldown to the ground of your Arduino, with a 10-20 K Ohm resistor
- Some wire and solder and stuff
step 2: Make a Stencil
Because we are making a bend sensor it makes sense to make it long so that it can be easily attached to where bending should be measured.
You do not have to follow the shape and size for this sensor exactly. I've kept it simple to communicate the idea.
Create a stencil that includes marking for stitches that should run diagonally. It is good to leave at least 5mm space between the stitches and the edge of the neoprene.
Leave 1cm space between the stitches. It is about NOT creating a too conductive surface, so that the sensor stays sensitive. 4-7 diagonal stitches (depending on the
length of your sensor) are normally fine. Also, they do not need to be long. 1,5cm max. For this version you'll want to leave about 1-2 cm space at each end of the sensor
so that you can attach a popper, which will be useful for connecting it into a fabric circuit later on.
step 3: Preparing Materials
Once youÃ¢â?¬â?¢ve created the stencil, trace it onto the neoprene so that you have two IDENTICAL (NOT MIRRORED) pieces.
Using interfacing, fuse a small piece of stretch conductive fabric (see photos) to the end of each piece of neoprene. On once piece it should be on the green side (inside)
and on the other on the gray side (outside). This is so that later on, once the sensor is sewn together, the conductive fabric only faces one side (this is more for aesthetic
reasons, so it will still work no matter which side you fuse the conductive fabric to).
step 4: Sewing
Now that both sides of your sensor are prepared, thread a needle with a good amount of conductive thread. You can take it double or single. I prefer to take it single.
Sew into the neoprene from the back/outside (in this case grey side). Start at the end furthest away from the patch of conductive fabric. Stitch back and forth as shown in
the photos. When you reach the end, sew the thread to the conductive fabric. Make at least 6 stitches to connect the two.
Do this sewing for both pieces of neoprene, with the exception that in once case the conductive fabric is on the other side of the conductive stitches. Still you want to
attach the conductive thread to the conductive fabric patch with at least 6 stitches.
The reason the stitching on both sides must be identical is so that when they lie on top of each other (facing each other) the stitches crisscross and overlap in one point.
This has two advantages. First that it is unlikely that the stitches will not line up and not make any overlapping connection. And secondly that the surface of connection is
not too big. IÃ?Â¢Ã¢Â?Â¬Ã¢Â?Â¢ve found that if the conductive surfaces are too big that the sensitivity of the sensor is no longer good for what I want.
step 5: Closing the sensor
Before closing the sensor you will want to cut out a piece of Velostat that is just a little bit smaller than your pieces of neoprene. This piece of Velostat will go in between
your two conductive stitches. And this is what creates the pressure sensitive change in resistance. The Velostat lets more electricity through, the harder you press the two
conductive layers together, with the Velostat in between. I'm not really sure exactly why this is, but I imagine it's because there are carbon particle in the Velostat that
conduct electricity and the more pressure on them the closer they come together and the better they conduct or something similar (???).
So, place the piece of Velostat in between and sew the sensor together as shown in the pictures. Don't sew too tightly, otherwise you'll have an initial pressure which will
make your sensor less sensitive.
step 6: Poppers
Read the instructions that came with your popper machine. I have attached two different poppers (female and male) to either side of my sensor, but this is up to you. I
have attached the front part of each popper (the popper part) to the side with the patch of conductive fabric, so that both poppers attach at the same side.
If you happen to make a mistake with the poppers, the best tool to undo them is a pair of pliers and to squeeze together the weaker part, which is normally the back part
(often just a ring). And then fiddle until it comes loose. This often ruins the fabric though.
step 7: Multimeter Test
Now your sensor is finished!
Hook either end up to a multimeter and set it to measure resistance. Each sensor will have a different range of resistance but as long as it is not too small and works for
your purposes, all is good.
The sensor I made had following ranges:
Lying flat: 240 K Ohm
Pressing with finger: 1 K Ohm
Lying on side: 400 K Ohm
Bent: 1,5 K Ohm
step 8: Software Visualization
To visualize the change in resistance in the bend sensor you just made you can also hook it up to your computer via a microcontroller (Arduino) and use a little bit of code
(Processing) to visualize it.
Video
Both Processing and Arduino are free software environments. An Arduino physical computing platform will cost you about 25USD. You can download the code for the
Arduino chip here:
http://plusea.at/downloads/_080725_6AnIN.zip
And the code for the Processing application here:
http://plusea.at/downloads/_080809_Read6AnalogIN.zip
When you have the Processing application open you only have to pay attention to the movement of the bar that is connected to your sensor, since the Arduino has 6
analog inputs in total and this application is programmed to visualize all 6 of them... in case you want to plug in more than one sensor.
See the orange bar in the pictures. How it is on the right of the computer screen when the wrist is bent. And at the very left when the wrist is straight!!
Have fun and thanks for reading. Let me know what you think.
Fabric bend
sensor
(slideshow) by
Plusea
Conductive
Thread
Pressure
Sensor by
Plusea
WEARABLE
WASTE OF
ENERGY by
Plusea
Conductive
Fabric Pressure
Sensor by
Plusea
Puppeteer
Motion-Capture
Costume by
Plusea
Conductive
Thread inside a
Fabric Bias
Tube aka Tubes
of
Conductiveness
by Lynne Bruning
Wearable Piano
Interface by
Plusea
Machine
Embroidery
covering
Conductive
Thread by Lynne
Bruning
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Comments
thread_soul says:
Aug 25, 2008. 6:58 PM REPLY
A couple of years ago I explored a concept similar to this, though in a much less successful direction using piezoelectric stress/strain detectors. After reading
your original Flexible Fabric Pressure Sensor i'ble last year, it became obvious that it was a much better method for it. I never acted on it, and thus I'm
excited to see that you've been pioneering such a concept yourself and have carried it out to such a successful level of completion, well done!!
A couple of questions:
Have you had the opportunity to explore the possibility of taking the sensor output and converting to MIDI ? (adding modularity and easy connectivity with
other instruments/devices)
Any experimentation yet with controlling other environmental aspects, such as lighting, etc? (this is where midi might be handy, i can see it even being
extended to trigger any other type of stage device....)
Again, fantastic work!
Plusea says:
Aug 27, 2008. 5:24 AM REPLY
thanks for the nice comment.
for the dance performance (video see above) we actually did use the sensor input to trigger midi signals (from a max/msp patch). the midi signals were
then sent to LEMUR's musical robots. but i actually don't know so much about midi and we weren't converting the sensor input directly into midi.
and yes, lighting would be another interesting medium to work with.
Rumi says:
Aug 21, 2008. 6:44 AM REPLY
Hi, great job. I was wondering how do you measure the angle of bend using the bend sensor? what program did you use for the display on the screen
(shown in the youtube above)? thanks alot.
masterchrisx3 says:
Aug 19, 2008. 8:19 PM REPLY
I JUST HAD AN AWSOME IDEA MAKE A FULL BODY SNSOR ON EVERY BONE HINGE AND MAKE VIRTUAL REALATY
THIS RULS
skok says:
Maybe you should patent it?
Aug 15, 2008. 5:48 PM REPLY
tewfik says:
Aug 13, 2008. 4:46 AM REPLY
WOW
Really nice thing you've done here.
I love the concept, could be used as you depicted as a glove-control-interface
according to your video, it seems that you need some noise-filtering on pc-side (or arduino-side), just a thought
you said that it is possible to measure the angle from this sensor, is it linear (ideally) or something non-linear
and by the way, is the conductive fabric available or is it a special material you have to order on the internet ?
very nice instructable
thanks for sharing
Plusea says:
Aug 13, 2008. 6:15 AM REPLY
Hi. thanks for the comment.
some more noise filtering would be nice. i normally just threshold the data (min, max) and then i at least get rid of the annoying flickering at both ends. i'm
not a big programmer, but i'm sure more can be done.
you're right the decrease in resistance is not linear, it is much more sensitive to slight pressure and then becomes less sensitive the harder you press,
but it still gets information in the high pressure (human finger pressure) range. still it is stable so you can/could approximate angle from it.
if you use Eeonyx's carbon fabric instead of the Velostat then you get more linear results, but this fabric is only available in large quantities.
the stretch conductive fabric that i use is really easy to order from LessEMF over the internet. they are based in NY but ship all over the world (i think).
their stretch conductive fabric is not the cheapest and just went up in price to 60$/linear foot (= 30 x 110 cm). but you can also use a less expensive, non
stretch, conductive fabric or probably also use conductive thread to make a good connection to the popper... or even don't use a popper at all but sew
directly to something else (a perfboard for example). but stretch conductive fabric is cool.
greetings!
hannah
endolith says:
Aug 14, 2008. 12:12 PM REPLY
What's the circuit connecting the sensor to the Arduino? The sensor is just one half of a resistor divider to the ADC? You could do digital filtering in
software, but it might be easier to do it with just an electronic filter.
Plusea says:
Aug 14, 2008. 4:32 PM REPLY
the circuit is just a series of pull-downs. if you have any tips on doing some electronics filtering, i'd be very interested to hear.
thanks
endolith says:
Aug 14, 2008. 6:02 PM REPLY
By "series" you mean "one resistor divider for each sensor"?
Just putting a capacitor across the sensor terminals will act as a low-pass filter and get rid of some of the fluctuations.
Plusea says:
Aug 14, 2008. 6:24 PM REPLY
yes. one 20K resistor to the ground for each sensor.
i'll try out the capacitor next week. thanks!
endolith says:
Aug 14, 2008. 6:43 PM REPLY
So try a 1 microfarad capacitor across the 20K resistor. That will start filtering at 8 Hz (8 vibrations per second, still high for hand
movements). If that doesn't do anything noticeable, try 10 microfarad, etc. If you go too high with the value it will respond very slowly,
though, so you have to find a good value for the response you want.
tewfik says:
Aug 15, 2008. 11:21 AM REPLY
yes, a low pass filter will do fine, also you will decrease the cutoff frequency of your system and thus you won't sens rapid
movements / variations (well, this is the role of a low pass anyway)
maybe a bit of processing on the microcontroller would be nice too
i find that moving average filters give good results, and maintain a good level of accuracy
if you want to have some "high"-tech filtering, try kalman filters, this is like magic ! kalman filters can handle high frequencies while
rejecting noise effects without disturbing the system dynamic, also, a bit pain to implement , especially on 8bit systems
Moving Average - Wikipedia
Kalman Filter - Wikipedia
GPap1 says:
Aug 15, 2008. 8:05 AM REPLY
I think you've hit a million dollar idea here! With the advent of the Wii, each of your sensors could be a "joystick". Assign the different sounds/sounds (or
genres for that matter -techno, rock, hip-hop) to the different parts of the body and create a game called "Dance Off". Have the kids compete in dance
competitions. They're already using the Wii to get kids to exercise. If millions of people will strum a guitar in video game, why not dance? Good luck!
caled85 says:
Aug 14, 2008. 12:57 PM REPLY
Nice instructable, are you the dancer as well?
Plusea says:
Aug 14, 2008. 4:10 PM REPLY
no, i'm not.
but i'm thinking of making myself a pyjama type motion capture suit just so that i can play with it.
caled85 says:
Aug 14, 2008. 7:21 PM REPLY
lol, if you do make sure you do a full instructable on it :)
1up says:
Aug 11, 2008. 2:59 PM REPLY
Oooh, this looks like the perfect thing to use for building a robot that moves when you do...
puffyfluff says:
Aug 13, 2008. 10:14 PM REPLY
That's a really neat idea. You should make it! Programming in BASIC, (of course)!
1up says:
Aug 14, 2008. 4:16 PM REPLY
It could be hooked up to the joystick port, because it detects resistance!
And I know how to program it, too...
Hmmm...
puffyfluff says:
Aug 14, 2008. 4:27 PM REPLY
A perfect system!
chuckw says:
Aug 14, 2008. 12:32 PM REPLY
Why does it look like the Velostat isn't sandwiched between the top and bottom layer in a few of those pictures?
..Chuck..
Plusea says:
Aug 14, 2008. 4:08 PM REPLY
So that i could show how the stitches "meet". That if you stitch two identical layers the stitches will crisscross when facing each other. That is why i took
the Velostat out so that people could see.
puffyfluff says:
Aug 13, 2008. 10:16 PM REPLY
Wow, great job. I have a million uses for these. I better get started!
rmd6502 says:
Aug 11, 2008. 10:55 AM REPLY
I wonder how well capacitive sensors would work using Velostat. At one point I sandwiched two pieces of tinfoil between three pieces of fabric and got pretty
good results.
Honus says:
Aug 9, 2008. 7:19 PM REPLY
Very cool and well done instructable! I frequently use bend sensors so this will come in quite handy.
trebuchet03 says:
ooo Nice :)
Now link it to some for of animatronic mouse head and start your own theme park :D
Aug 9, 2008. 4:48 PM REPLY
Fuse Beads NES Controller
by Lalya on November 7, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Fuse Beads NES Controller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Front Panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Back and Sides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 3: Electronics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 4: Et voilà! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 5: Example: Control iTunes with your fuse beads NES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
9
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
9
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
http://www.instructables.com/id/Fuse_Beads_NES_Controller/
intro: Fuse Beads NES Controller
Making a game controller with fuse beads that looks like a fridge magnet made of fuse beads that looks like a Nintendo NES controller.
Vintage video-game aesthetics made a big come-back a few years ago. Fuse beads, with their "pixel" look, design flexibility and easiness of use (suited for 5-year-olds
+), benefited from this trend and became increasingly popular as a craft and as a form of personal expression: from Super Mario coasters to plastic jewerly, Zeldainspired street art , and fridge magnets representing tapes or old-fashioned video-game controllers such as the NES from Nintendo. Aesthetics of the digital world leaked
onto the physical one (ref: Wojtowicz), all in a nice geeky old-school way.
This project pushes the whole geekiness of it even further by making an actual game controller that references fridge magnets that reference Nintendo game controllers.
All using fuse beads (and Arduino). Although not yet compatible with Nintendo game consoles, the controller can send simple binary information through the serial port
that can be read by regular softwares and be used in computer games, computer music or other types of real-time control of digital content.
For this project, you will need:
- fuse beads (often called Hama or Perler): a few red ones and lots of black and grey ones
- a pegboard
- an iron
- iron paper
- push buttons (three or more)
- an Arduino micro-controller (how to get started with Arduino will not be explained here)
- a tape roll
- wires, a soldering iron and other equipment for making electronic circuits
- hot glue
- a USB cable
- a computer with USB port
step 1: Front Panel
We start by making the front of the game controller, using fuse beads (also called Hama beads or Perler beads). This controller is not going to be an exact replica of a
NES controller: only three buttons will be real, the red ones on the right, and the crosse on the left. Due to time and material constraints for preparing this instructable, the
cross button will also be a simple push button.
The first step is to figure out the layout of the panel, then place the beads one by one on the pegboard.
- The pattern should resemble the appearence of a Nintendo NES controller (or of a fridge magnet imitation) as much as possible, only *inverted*.
- The size of front panel depends on the size of the buttons that fit in it. Make sure to test how much space you will need with the buttons you have available, before
getting started with the arrangement.
- Leave empty space where the buttons are going to be and make button covers of the same size.
Once you are done arranging the beads, cover them with ironing paper, and iron them in order to fuse them together. The beads should melt just enough to hold together
tight. Wait until the beads have cooled down before removing the paper.
The side that will be visible in the end is the one below that has not been ironed.
step 2: Back and Sides
The 2nd step is to make the rest of the controller box: the casing in which the electronics will be placed.
In the same way as in step one, make rectangles of fuse beads for the back panel and the sides of the box.
- Make sure to make the sides deep enough to have an Arduino board inside of the casing. I made them 4 rows large.
- Also make sure to remove one line of beads in the intersections in order for the sides to fit together.
- On one side, make room for the Arduino's USB port.
Use a glue-gun to assemble the parts. Test to see if how well the Arduino's USB port would fit into the opening before gluing it. Another possible method is to sew the
parts together, taking advantage of the fact that they have an even stucture of holes.
step 3: Electronics
Next step, the electronics: Building the circuit, programming it and fitting it into the controller's casing.
I placed a roll of transparent tape next to the Arduino in order to allow for the front panel to sustain pressure from the push buttons, as the casing has a certain depth to
accomodate for the Arduino and the plastic casing is rather fragile in comparison to wood, cardboard or other types of plastic packaging. But anything with the right size
and robustness goes.
Before soldering the buttons, make sure they are positioned in such a way that they will properly fit into the empty spaces on the front panel.
For each push-button, one side of the switch needs to be connected to the ground and the other one to one of Arduino's digital pins (here: digital pins 3, 5 and 8 for the
cross button and the red ones, in that order - see code). No need for resistorsm, as floating values will be forced to "high" in the programming code.
Some isolating material might be need to separate the Arduino from the back of the circuit.
In terms of programming the micro-controller, it is assumed here that you are already familiar with Arduino and have the programming environment installed on your
computer. If not, all you need to know is gathered on the Arduino resource page www.arduino.cc.
The code I used is the following:
int CrossButton = 3;
int RedButtonL = 5;
int RedButtonR = 8;
int val1 = 0;
int val2 = 0;
int val3 = 0;
void setup() {
pinMode(CrossButton, INPUT);
pinMode(RedButtonL, INPUT);
pinMode(RedButtonR, INPUT);
digitalWrite(CrossButton, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RedButtonL, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RedButtonR, HIGH);
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop(){
val1 = digitalRead(CrossButton);
val2 = digitalRead(RedButtonL);
val3 = digitalRead(RedButtonR);
Serial.print(val1, BIN);
Serial.println(",");
delay(10); // pause for 10 milliseconds
}
step 4: Et voilà!
The final step of this project, as far as the hardware is concerned, is to place the front panel and the button covers, and to secure the construction.
Different methods for closing the casing can be used:
- A few drops of hot glue on the corners of the buttons to hold them close to the front panel, and one the borders of the casing to close it: robust method but makes it
difficult to reach for the electronic components if there is any problem
- Sewing: all beads have a hole in the middle, and so does the circuit board, which makes it possible to sew them together and close the box in a non-permanent way.
However, the thread might be too visible for one's taste.
- Double-sided tape: versatile but not very robust.
- A combination of all of them.
The button covers made on step 1 can now be glued on top of the push-buttons.
The game controller's hardware is now finished and ready to be control a softtware!
As mentioned in the intro, the controller is not compatible with Nintendo consoles (yet), but serial information coming from the controller can be used in many kinds of
interactive applications (see example in step 5), including computer games.
So go ahead, geek on!
step 5: Example: Control iTunes with your fuse beads NES
Here is an example of application for the controller: a "remote controller" for iTunes. You can change track and volume (for Mac only) using Applescript commands sent
through Arduino.
1. Download the following application from Tinker.it to execute Applescript commands that can control iTunes when calling certain characters:
http://tinker.it/now/2007/04/26/control-your-mac-from-arduino-the-easy-way/
(direct link: http://www.tinker.it/files/asproxy02.dmg )
Make sure to choose the right port.
2. Modify the previous Arduino code in the following way in order to send characters to the app when pressing the buttons:
int CrossButton = 3;
int RedButtonL = 5;
int RedButtonR = 8;
int val1 = 1;
int val2 = 1;
int val3 = 1;
int state1 = 1;
int state2 = 1;
int state3 = 1;
void setup() {
pinMode(CrossButton, INPUT);
pinMode(RedButtonL, INPUT);
pinMode(RedButtonR, INPUT);
digitalWrite(CrossButton, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RedButtonL, HIGH);
digitalWrite(RedButtonR, HIGH);
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop() {
val1 = digitalRead(CrossButton);
if (val1 != state1 && val1 == 0){Serial.print("C");}
if (val1 != state1){state1 = val1;}
val2 = digitalRead(RedButtonL);
if (val2 != state2 && val2 == 0){Serial.print("B");}
val3 = digitalRead(RedButtonR);
if (val3 != state3 && val3 == 0){Serial.print("A");}
delay(10);
}
3. Use the following commands in the app :
Change track (cross button):
C tell application iTunes
play next track
end tell
Volume up / down for red buttons B and A (see http://bbs.macscripter.net/viewtopic.php?pid=103916 )
A tell application "iTunes"
set currentVolume to sound volume
set sound volume to currentVolume + 10
end tell
B tell application "iTunes"
set currentVolume to sound volume
set sound volume to currentVolume - 10
end tell
Press start in the applescript application.... Done! Now you have a fuse beads NES controller that can control iTunes!
Nintendo
Keyless Entry
System by
action_owl
Nintendo
Portable
(slideshow) by
Darkeru
SNES to Parallel
Port by
Hungry_Myst
NES Belt - DIY
Version by
Dafishmaster
How to Make a
Portable Game
System by 1up
Nintendo
controller into a
PC card reader
by zieak
Nes controller
phone
(slideshow) by
spoonty
Arduino gift
guide
(slideshow) by pt
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Comments
1 comments
Add Comment
osgeld says:
Dec 8, 2008. 6:12 PM REPLY
i like it
course the easiest route to nes compatibility would be going down to your local ma-pa used game store and getting one of their 3$ generic nes controllers
(dont kill a "vintage" one)
Galvanic skin response computer mouse
by Alex Uyttendaele on November 7, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Galvanic skin response computer mouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Preparing the mouse - 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Preparing the mouse - 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Placing the electrodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: finishing and testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
7
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
7
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
http://www.instructables.com/id/Galvanic_skin_response_computer_mouse/
intro: Galvanic skin response computer mouse
A current trend in human computer Interaction research is to use physiological measurements to gather data while users are engaged in the software or website which is
being tested.
A big problem, however, is that the users do not tend to feel at ease when they are connected to these complex hardware systems. This may hamper the elicitation of
natural behaviour. Therefore non obtrusive measuring tools need to be created.
This instructable is a first attempt in that direction. A Standard old Dell computer mouse was outfitted with GRS electrodes. This way physiological data can be gathered
withour hampering the user.
Image Notes
1. The end result
Image Notes
1. Straps around fingers. Users don't tend to feel at ease
step 1: Preparation
What you need:
- A computer mouse
- a drill
- 2 AA batteries
- tape
- Thin electric wire
- Connectors
Image Notes
1. 2 standard cheap AA batteries, they don't need to work.
Image Notes
1. Connectors that fit your biometric device
2. -Thin electric wiring (about 3 m), -Cut in half and strip both ends
step 2: Preparing the mouse - 1
This step basically shows you how to dismantle the mouse. We need to remove the buttons to fit the electrodes.
Mouse types may varty, but the two I worked on were rather similar.
Image Notes
1. Remove screws. some mice have screws hidden under a sticker, make sure
you remove them all
Image Notes
1. Remove the mouse buttons by lifting this tab, do the same on the right
Image Notes
1. breaking this connection makes future steps easier to deal with. This way you'll
have two individual mouse buttons.
step 3: Preparing the mouse - 2
The pictures will show you where the holes need to be drilled.
the middle of each button should be the place to drill to add the electrodes.
Basically choose the place which seems natural to you. the electrodes should connect to the tops of the fingers (where ones finger prints are).
Another 2 holes need to be drilled in the mouse structure itself in order to pass the wires
Image Notes
1. Drill the holes in the mouse buttons. Drill top down to get a neat hole on top. I
used a 5.5mm drill.
Image Notes
1. Drill two small under the holes drilled in the mouse buttons to pass the wires. 2
mm is enough for these holes.
step 4: Placing the electrodes
I used the + pole of a standard AA type battery as this is the ideal shape and size for the job.
Do not use Duracell batteries as they weld the poles to the core.
Carefully remove the casing of the battery without harming the core.
Remove the positive and negative poles of the battery. these are usually glued to the chemical core, you shouldn't harm the chemical centre of the battery during this
step.
The following steps are clearer by following the pictures. the show how to attach the wires and fix the electrodes in the right place.
Image Notes
1. you probably need to cut some of the edges in order for it to fit under the
button. I cut the entire circumference of the plus pole as it was too tick other
wise.
Image Notes
1. place the plus side in the hole you drilled, and add extra tape for stability
Image Notes
1. again here soldering would be best. but I just passed the wire through the
hole and twisted it.
step 5: finishing and testing
Reassemble you mouse.
Attach it to you bio measuring device and test it.
To give the mouse a finished look you could use electric tape to tape the wires together.
don't be afraid that users might lift their fingers off the electrodes. A disconnection gives a very clear signal which can be easily filtered out.
The device you use to acquire the data may differ off course. Our lab uses the MP100 system by Biopac. Its an extensible lab giving you the options to add multiple
measuring devices. To date we only have the GSR unit and a ECG unit. The advantage with this unit is that is has the ability to synchronise with the Noldus Observer
software. This package is used by many usability and behavioural labs to gather observational data.
Image Notes
1. ready for testing
Image Notes
1. finish by taping the wires
Image Notes
1. the mouse in use during a test. The mouse is connected to the computer on the
left. The electrodes to the PC on the right which shows a clear GSR graph.
Image Notes
1. the Biopac MP100
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Comments
leahbuechley says:
Nov 16, 2008. 11:55 AM REPLY
cool!
You might try gripper snaps (available at craft & sewing stores) for the electrodes to avoid dismantling batteries.
what hardware & software are you using to collect & look at the data?
personk53 says:
Nov 10, 2008. 4:51 PM REPLY
Why not move the sensors off the buttons, which move and have to allow for both movement and increase/decreases in pressure when clicking? Why not
move them to the body of the mouse? Where the palm sits might actually give you better data, since the palm is less likely to expand or contract, thus
altering the signal in that way and the pressure likely stays fairly constant. An even better control on the surface might be a trackball, like the ones logitech
has. It would mean less movement in general, since the mouse stays put, and it has a nice place for the palm to rest.
I'm not a GSR expert or anything, just my two cents.
hypergeek14 says:
Nov 15, 2008. 10:05 AM REPLY
Using the palm sounds like a better idea because the pressure put on the pads when the user clicks the mouse will give a faulty reading. The pressure
on the palm would probably be much more uniform.
Biopyro says:
Nov 13, 2008. 1:45 PM REPLY
My palm doesn't really rest on my mouse. The ball of my hand rests on the mat and my palm and fingers move the mouse.
Alex Uyttendaele says:
Nov 11, 2008. 1:01 AM REPLY
The palm would be worth considering. I will look into that option. A trackball I would rather not use, as this again is an odd device for many users, and we
want them to interact with the software or product being tested in the most natural way as possible.
Maniacy says:
Nov 8, 2008. 8:02 AM REPLY
Nice idea.
You will have do quite bit of work if you wan't valid results with this setup for two reasons:
- You need a fixed distance of skin between the electrodes if you want to compare the individual measurements. Movement will change the resistance.
- Your electrodes may be subject to polarization rendering the measurements worthless. You want to look for Ag/AgCl electrodes.
Nov 10, 2008. 12:23 PM REPLY
What exactly would be the advantage of the Ag/AgCl electrodes? Im a psychologist just getting into the world of DIY so I do miss some knowledge on
material choice, and more. So if you could give me some info on those electrodes it would be great.
MattieShoes says:
Nov 9, 2008. 6:34 AM REPLY
Hmm, GSR is just measuring conductance or capacitance of human skin I think, depending on if it's active or passive. I'm not sure what exactly a bio-meter
does but you can perform and log those measurements without anything fancy... An arduino should be able to I'd think. I' may just have to try making a GSR
device with an arduino :-)
Nov 10, 2008. 12:19 PM REPLY
Keep me posted on your work with the arduino, that would make it a really cheap solution, in stead of the commercially available, and expensive Biopac
unit we use.
picard-hacker says:
Nov 10, 2008. 6:50 AM REPLY
Years ago Wendy Ark at IBM built an "emotion mouse"
that also measured electrodermal activity (EDA). (GSR
is a dated term for this phenomenon.) Prior to that we
had started to put EDA sensors into a steering wheel,
only to realize that there were a lot of pressure and
motion artifacts with EDA on active fingers.
One concern with the accuracy of putting EDA in the mouse
is that increasing the skin pressure against the electrodes
increases the skin conductance signal. Carson Reynolds
and I showed in studies at MIT that people tended to apply
more pressure to the mouse when stressed. While the error is in the
right direction (skin conductance usually goes up with stress)
it is the case that the mouse-captured signal won't match the std EDA signal generated with constant pressure.
Also, left-right comparisons won't be identical due to the fact
that the signals on both sides of the body are controlled
separately by the two sides of the brain, making it hard to
test how good the new sensor is compared to a commercial
one.
All of this aside, a sensor that measures increasing pressure
and skin conductance on the mouse could be a very helpful tool
for reflecting on one's internal state, and on how this is interacting
with the task on the computer. This mouse looks like a great
tool for exploring these interactions, even if it is not identical to
the standard physiological measures for EDA.
Nov 10, 2008. 12:18 PM REPLY
Hi thanks for this comment, i hadn't heard about the research you mentioned before. The Game Experience Lab at the Technical University of Eindhoven
is actually experimenting with a computer mouse with integrated pressure sensors. If you feel that the combination of pressure and GSR would prove
useful I should contact them and see if we can work together.
Great to learn from other people this way
rickysio says:
Nov 9, 2008. 8:18 AM REPLY
How about instead of using the tip of a battery (which is rather big), drill several small holes that leads to a thin iron rod, like, a paperclip, which will have
lesser surface area, and less of the 'aware'-able temperature difference between the metal and the plastic.
I'm not so knowledgeable about this, so if I happen to understand or interpret something wrongly, my apologies.
Bongmaster says:
Nov 7, 2008. 1:06 PM REPLY
what would be even better would be a conductive surface covering the mouse buttons for extra comfort so the user could forget that its a modified mouse :)
and add to relaxation.
Maniacy says:
Nov 8, 2008. 4:26 PM REPLY
It wouldn't: Since you want to measure conductance as accurately as possible you don't want to add contact surface as a variable in you measurement.
Nice idea though!
Nov 7, 2008. 10:34 PM REPLY
Hi Bongmaster, The posted mouse is actually my fourth prototype. The versions before included really basic things like gluing a paper clip onto the
buttons, and as you are suggesting mouse buttons completely covered in a conductive surface.
This version,however, did not pass our tests as even the slightest movement caused a different part of the finger to pass the signal which kept skewing
our results. Our conclusion was that the conductive surface has to be as small as possible, and keep the fingers from too much movement. But thanks
for your comment, I hope improved ideas will emerge.
Bongmaster says:
Nov 8, 2008. 12:09 AM REPLY
kool :)
hope u get the results u need :)
Nov 7, 2008. 10:33 AM REPLY
Impressive and delightfully weird, have you much data from this yet?
Nov 7, 2008. 10:40 PM REPLY
Hi, thanks for your comment. When it comes to data, all we have been doing is small tests in our lab and checking variables as movement, finger
release, and performance over a longer period to compare it to our data from the standard GSR.
What I would like to do is hook a person up to a standard GSR on one hand and the GSR mouse on the other, but as we only own one Bio Unit I cannot
do this yet.
HDDJ: Turning an old hard disk drive into a rotary input device
by nvillar on November 10, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: HDDJ: Turning an old hard disk drive into a rotary input device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Crack open a hard disk drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Solder wires to the spindle motor contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Probing the motor output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Amplifying the output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Measuring direction and velocity of spin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 6: Schematics and firmware for the HDDJ device . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 7: Video summary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
7
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
8
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
http://www.instructables.com/id/HDDJ_Turning_an_old_hard_disk_drive_into_a_rotary/
intro: HDDJ: Turning an old hard disk drive into a rotary input device
A couple of years ago we built a fun system that would allow DJs to mix music tracks in interesting ways. Our design called for an input device that would allow the DJ to
quickly seek through a track and find a specific playback position, and we wanted to be able to do this by spinning a rotary control with a flick of the wrist - much like
turntable DJs can spin the record back and forth to do the same.
We found that we had only limited choices for building our device: we first tried to use rotary encoders, but it is not easy to find a cheap encoder that spins smoothly and
freely. Another alternative was to buy some audio equipment (like turntables) that spin well and feel good to use - but this seemed both expensive and wasteful for our
purposes. Then, while looking for inspiration amongst assorted junk in the lab, we came upon a broken hard disk drive with its case open. We admired the quality of the
bearings in the motor that drives the disk plates, enjoyed the fact that even a soft flick would get it spinning for a long time, and wondered whether we could sample an
output from it when it was spun by hand, in much the same way that an electric motor, when turned, acts as a dynamo and outputs a voltage.
The answer is yes - and it's a very simple process to turn a hard disk into a rotary input device that has some unique properties. All you'll need is an old hard disk drive, a
few op amps, resistors and a programmable microcontroller of some kind.
In this Instructable we'll show the basic principles behind this hack, then provide the schematics and firmware for the HDDJ device (shown below) that we used in our
project, and which includes a few extra buttons, lights and a motorized slider for good measure.
step 1: Crack open a hard disk drive
Old, unwanted or broken hard disk drives (HDDs) are usually free and easy to get hold of. They come in all shapes and sizes, but the most common are the 3.5" HDDs
that are used inside desktop PCs. We experimented with a number of different 3.5" HDD models, and found that most are suitable for our purposes (and would guess
that smaller, laptop-sized disks would work just as well). The largest variation lies in how easy it is to open the case of some compared to others. Seagate HDDs, which
often use plain Phillips screws in the casing, are our favorite.
The first step is to open the drive by removing all the screws that hold the case closed. Often these are torx screws, and you'll need an appropriate screw driver.
Sometimes a screw will be hidden behind a label - so if you have trouble opening the case after all the screws seemed to have been removed, poke at the labels to find
the culprit. If there is a label saying "Warranty Void if Removed," then, for sure, remove it.
Open the case, and reveal the disk platters in all their untouched glory. Never again will they be so free of fingerprints.
Remove the actuator that holds the read-write head, which stops the platters from spinning around freely. It's up to you how much more you want/need to remove (rule of
thumb: anything sharp should go). The only thing that you need to keep attached are the frame, platters and spindle motor.
Thanks to Wikipedia for the Anatomy of a Hard Disk Drive"" image.
Image Notes
1. Unscrew
2. Unscrew
3. Unscrew
4. Unscrew
5. Unscrew
6. Unscrew
7. Unscrew
8. These three were hiding under the label.
step 2: Solder wires to the spindle motor contacts
Turn the HDD over, with the exposed platters facing down. Some older HDDs will have four wires coming out of the back of the spindle motor, in which case you can skip
this step. Most, however, have an orangy-transparent flat-flex cable. In this case, what we are looking for are four exposed contacts at the back of the motor that we can
solder some wires to.
Image Notes
1. We could solder four cables to these four points.
2. Or we could solder here.
Image Notes
1. You'll probably want to solder much longer cables than these.
step 3: Probing the motor output
This is not really a necessary step, but more an illustration of what exactly we are trying to do.
If you have a access to an oscilloscope with multiple inputs, connect three of them to three of the wires soldered to the spindle motor contacts in the previous step (it
doesn't matter which three). Connect the probes' ground clips to the fourth wire, then set the platter spinning.
The scope images below show the three waveforms that are generated when the HDD platter is spun by hand (the scale is set to 500mV per division in the vertical axis,
and 20ms per division in the horizontal axis). Three perfect phase-shifted sinusoidal waveforms!
The three different pictures show what happens to the waveforms as the platter gradually slows down: they all decrease in both frequency and amplitude by the same
amount.
These waveforms carry a lot of information, not only how fast the platter is spinning, but also in which direction it is spinning (clockwise, or anti-clockwise). More on this
later.
The raw signals, as generated by spinning the motor by hand, are simply too subtle to be sampled directly by a microcontroller, so the next step is to amplify them into
useful levels.
step 4: Amplifying the output
Now you have signals coming from your HDD's spindle motor, it's time to amplify them, and in the process convert them to square waves that can be fed into a
microcontroller.
The amplification can be done with a simple comparator circuit. Each comparator (the triangles in the schematic) has two inputs (+ and -) and one output. When the
voltage on the (+) input is less than the voltage on the (-) input the output will be pulled down to the negative supply voltage, otherwise it will be pulled to the positive
supply voltage or, depending on the model of comparator, float at high impedance (in which case a pull up resistor is required).
In the schematic below we have wired an LM324D opamp to function as a comparator (an explanation of how this works can be found here). The LM324D includes 4
comparator modules in a single package, which is perfect because in our case we need three (the 4th is not shown in the schematic).
One of the lines from the HDD is used as a reference, and is connected to the (-) inputs of all the comparators. The other three lines are connected to each of
comparators (+) inputs. Not shown in the schematic, but also important, are the power supply pins of the comparators. The negative supply is connected to ground, while
the positive supply is connected to Vcc (in our case +5V).
When the voltage of a signal pin from the HDD is greater than the reference the comparator output will be +5V, otherwise it will be ground. The outputs of this circuit
(second image) can now be connected directly to the input pins of the microcontroller.
step 5: Measuring direction and velocity of spin
In this step we take the outputs from the amplifier circuit in step 4 and input it to a microcontroller to convert them to something a bit more useful.
The images below show the output from the amplifier circuit as the HDD platter is spinning at various decaying velocities. As the velocity decreases the period of the
wave increases. The first two images below show the platter turning in different directions. If we look at order in which the rising edges of the waves occur we see that in
the first image (spinning clockwise) it's Yellow Blue Pink, whereas in the second (spinning anticlockwise) its Yellow Pink Blue.
The code for the microcontroller watches the inputs from amplifier for a rising edge. It also keeps track of which inputs the last two rising edges occurred on (we'll call the
inputs Y, P and B). If we detect a rising edge on input Y, and the previous rising edge was on P and before that B, we know that the platter is spinning clockwise, same
for P, B, Y and B, Y, P. Conversely if we detect a rising edge on Y, and the previous two rising edges were on B and P respectively, we know the direction is
anticlockwise, and same for B, P, Y and P, Y, B. Any other combinations are regarded as noise and ignored.
In our implementation we use a PIC microcontroller. The inputs from the amplifier are connected to the interrupt pins of the microcontroller; these generate an interrupt on
the rising edge of the input. Our code then looks at which input generated the interrupt and which inputs generated the last two interrupts. If a clockwise spin is detected a
'>' character is output to the PC, if an anticlockwise spin is detected a '<' is output.
Because the frequency of the interrupts depends directly on the frequency of the waves, which is proportional to the speed of the platter the computer software can work
out the velocity of the platter from the frequency at which it receives '<' or '>' characters.
step 6: Schematics and firmware for the HDDJ device
For our original DJing project we equipped the hard disk drive with eight additional buttons, six LEDs and a motorized fader to make the HDDJ device. We designed a
custom circuit board and wrote some firmware that allowed us to connect all these controls (plus the input from the HDD platter) to a PC via USB. Here you can download
the files needed to recreate this design in EAGLE format, plus the firmware that needs to run on the PIC microcontroller (youll need a suitable PIC programmer to do
this).
How to test the HDDJ Device
1. Install the driver provided in the ZIP file
2. Plug in the HDDJ to a USB port of your computer (it will mount as a virtual serial connection, and assign it a COM port)
3. Use a terminal program (like Putty) to connect to the COM port, at 115200bps, 8 data bits, no parity bit, and one stop bit.
4. Try spinning the HDDJ platter: you should see a stream of '<' characters appear as it spins counter-clockwise, and '>' characters as it spins clockwise. The frequency
of characters will depend on the velocity of spin.
5. Moving the fader will output the character 'f' followed by a number between 0 and 100. To control the position of the fader type the character m into the terminal
window, followed by a number between 0 and 100, and then hit return.
6. Pressing the buttons will output the character 'b' followed by a number between 0 and 8. To turn the LEDs on and off type the character l into the terminal window,
followed by a number between 0 and 6, and then hit return.
For our project we wrote a bit of software that communicated with the HDDJ via the USB serial line using this protocol. It would be a relatively small (but useful) step to
adapt it to, for example, translate the control sequences MIDI messages, which would let you use the HDDJ with generic music or VJ'ing software out of the box.
File Downloads
HDDJ.zip (210 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'HDDJ.zip']
step 7: Video summary
Here we have a video summary, showing the HDD connected to:
1. A comparator circuit, which amplifies to the output from the motors.
2. An oscilloscope, which shows the nice amplified square waves.
3. A microcontroller, which takes the square waves as input and uses them to determine the direction of spin. The microcontroller outputs (via serial line) the "<" character
while the disk is spinning counter-clockwise, and the ">" character when it is spinning clockwise.
4. A computer, that takes the output of the serial line and shows it on the screen.
In the video we're pretty excited because we just got this working for the first time :)
Video
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Comments
frotastic says:
Dec 11, 2008. 10:27 AM REPLY
Mac version?
get to da parakeet says:
Dec 2, 2008. 8:44 AM REPLY
wered u get that at?
leahbuechley says:
Nov 26, 2008. 5:17 AM REPLY
great instructable!! One tiny wish though... It would be fantastic if you included pictures of your circuits (especially the op amp to microcontroller circuit) in
addition to your schematics. A little info on programming the PIC - what programmer & chip you used would also be great. This little extra info would make
the instructable more accessible to non techies :)
westfw says:
Nov 12, 2008. 5:52 PM REPLY
Neat. In an interesting bit of synhcronicity, you might also check out this other recent project on using stepper motors in a similar manner.
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/joecolquitt/stepper_as_encoder.html
One of the interesting discoveries there was that you can increase "cogging" of your input device by putting some bias power through your windings. And
you can simultaneously operate the motor as a motor...
ruzter says:
Nov 23, 2008. 1:55 PM REPLY
Thanks, that helped me!
ruzter says:
Nov 23, 2008. 1:47 PM REPLY
This is a great idea. I am building a wired remote to move my homebuilt CNC router and I can use this. Using a stepper motor works just as well if you need
a control with "clicks" such as I do.
Question: using both HDD or stepper motors, I get many false triggers if I just touch the motor. Instead of a nice square wave output I see this (below). The
"hump" gets larger as the motor spins faster.
I tried grounding the motor, checked for loose wires, any thoughts?
Thanks for your instructable!
ruzter says:
Nov 23, 2008. 12:18 PM REPLY
If you don't have the right torx screwdriver, use a dremmel tool and a cutoff disc to cut a slot in the screw head. Then use a small flat screwdriver to remove
the screw.
George1024 says:
Nov 20, 2008. 4:05 PM REPLY
My attempt at making one has failed...the hard drive I'm using only has 3 wires, therefore only 2 outputs to measure. Regardless of the direction the platters
are spinning in, the sequence of the rising edges will always be A-B-A-B-A-B-A-B.
Back to the drawing board...
pelrun says:
Nov 21, 2008. 5:39 AM REPLY
You only need two signals, the third is redundant (it's just an inverted copy of one of the others).
Look up "quadrature encoding" for more details, but essentially it doesn't go A-B-A-B, but A-AB-B-None-A-AB-B-None, and *that* pattern lets you
determine direction. Look at the first two traces in the image in Step 5, you can see the 4 distinct states.
George1024 says:
Nov 21, 2008. 2:21 PM REPLY
Thanks, I'll give that a go.
ruzter says:
Nov 23, 2008. 10:37 AM REPLY
Yes, mine only had three wires too, but I can get 2 signals 90 degrees apart, enough to count pulses AND know what direction the platter is
turning. i.e use one wire for ground and the other 2 as signals.
j_l_larson says:
Nov 21, 2008. 10:30 AM REPLY
loves this
Jon Chandler says:
Nov 20, 2008. 11:21 PM REPLY
A logic analyzer is really helpful in playing with an application like this. Before you blow this off, take a look at the PICKit2 PIC programmer from Microchip.
This is cheap (<$40) tool to program PIC micros but it also includes a logic analyzer function. Nothing too fancy, but it works great to show what's going on
here.
The sketch below shows the comparator outputs for each phase for clockwise rotation. Look at the leading edge where channel 1 goes from 0 to 1. Channel
2 is always 1 when this happens. When rotation is reversed, channel 2 is 0 at this point.
Jon
Jon Chandler says:
Nov 20, 2008. 11:10 PM REPLY
Interesting idea. Here are a few real-world findings:
1. This works at moderate rotation speeds but not for extremely slow turning speeds, sure as you might want to make a "knob" for volume control.
2. Two phases are required to detect rotation and direction. The third phase may be grounded (Shorted to common) to provide better low speed performance
and toi add some stiffness to rotation.
3. The resolution of most hard-drive motors will be 4 pulses per rotation.
4. The attached sketch shows the wiring for this type of motor. The three phases may have a common connection (shown by the blue line) in which case the
motor has 4 terminals. If there are only 3 terminals, there is no common connection. Three terminal motors also work for this application. Just connect one of
the phases (say C) to the negative terminals of the comparators.
5. If the motor has 4 terminals, the common (blue in the sketch) connection should be connected to the negative terminals of the comparators It will be
necessary to use an ohmmeter to determine which is the common terminal. In the motors I looked at, each winding has a resistance of 2 ohms. Measuring
between each phase and common will result in a reading of 2 ohms. Measuring between any two phases will read 4 ohms.
6. Driving a brushless DC motor is a complex task! Microchip and STMicro have some application notes if you're considering this.
Jon
Dash_Merc says:
Nov 20, 2008. 5:51 PM REPLY
It would really be nice if the people who wrote this Instructable would revisit it, read our requests, and maybe answer our questions or respond by adding
detail(s) to their how-to.
I have a rudimentary understanding of electronics but would like to be able to make my own version of this without having to take classes first. Can
somebody please elaborate on the processes used to come to the conclusions that were had? Perhaps explain what to do if your HDD only has 3 wires, or
maybe provide some basic guidelines for the circuit to allow some flexibility in the design? I would love to make my own, but I can't just copy this (and I don't
want to), because I'm not using the same equipment as the original creators, and I want mine to be mine, my own, my precious. :P
wethecom says:
Nov 18, 2008. 7:41 PM REPLY
im sure this could be done on a parallel port...so you wouldnt need the pic controller....just the software end of...but i need to learn more about usb/serial port
and micro controllers thanks again
nepheron says:
Nov 18, 2008. 4:43 PM REPLY
HEY NICE INSTRUCTABLE!
guess what? u are now on the stumble upon button!
lols have fun
Data says:
Nov 18, 2008. 1:18 PM REPLY
Two things: I just want the rotary input functionality. What is the bare minimum of circuitry needed to do just that. And I have a hard drive with only three
contacts not four. Will that still work? Thanks!
George1024 says:
Nov 17, 2008. 10:02 PM REPLY
Awesome! I hooked up an old hard drive to an Arduino microcontroller board (which has built in analog inputs) and am in the process of making a program to
determine which direction the platters are rotating in.
wethecom says:
Nov 17, 2008. 7:59 PM REPLY
just lighly reading this
there is so much good information in this diy
i dont know where to start
i am going to have to spend alot of quailty time going over this thanks for posting
Matz says:
Nov 17, 2008. 9:27 AM REPLY
Very nice job! I am definitely going to try this.
Brett_cgb says:
Nov 15, 2008. 1:32 PM REPLY
Nice project – I think I’ll replicate it (the portion that uses the disk motor as a flywheel controller).
I suspect that the common Neg reference for the LM324 should be connected to one of the other pins on J2 (whichever one you used for the 3-phase scope
captures), and that it should be biased to 0.25Vdd (one quarter Vdd – see the LM324 requirements for input signals). This raises the reference and all the
motor phases to within the supply rails of the LM324. Ideally, you would see a 3-phase digital representation of the 3-phase motor signals.
Firmware needs to see any two phases to determine speed and direction. When one phase rises, this triggers a step. Check the state of the other phase to
determine direction.
terramoto says:
hey could you reply the full components list? thanks
Nov 15, 2008. 11:48 AM REPLY
windserfer says:
Nov 15, 2008. 7:33 AM REPLY
I'm sorry it is possible to have more detailed instructions? the
t.rohner says:
Nov 14, 2008. 11:26 PM REPLY
Good idea and a very nice oscilloscope you have...
crazytiti says:
Nov 14, 2008. 9:29 AM REPLY
realy good instructables thank you, i will take one hdd to make a sound volume controller, i will follow your system : put an lm324 then an USB pic with serial
emulator then i will use "GIRDER" (a good soft which can take many system as input and then create windows events)
natman says:
Nov 13, 2008. 10:19 PM REPLY
wat program is that???
Coffee bean says:
Nov 13, 2008. 4:22 PM REPLY
DUDE u have it put it to music and then u can say u remixed your hard drive.
gabrielG2 says:
Nov 13, 2008. 3:00 PM REPLY
What DJ software are you using?
TheNemo says:
Nov 13, 2008. 2:28 PM REPLY
Very nice project. I have been looking for something like this for quite some time. Many other approaches were too complex for me to get my feeble mind
around, but this one is clear and straightforward. I'll have some good fun with it I'm sure. Most of the stuff I have lying around, and I think you could do this
easily with an Arduino and Processing.
Dash_Merc says:
Nov 13, 2008. 9:21 AM REPLY
This is a very good write-up, but I'd like to see a little more explicit description under the how-to area of this project.
Furthermore, are there any plans to include either driver software (if not, I can figure that out, too) and/or a performance demo video? I want to see the lag
time on this baby.
Thank you for the inspiration. I'm going to make myself a couple of these, and figure out how to make them compatible with the HID protocol (yes, MIDI is
okay and possible, but HID is smoother and faster) and Traktor.
kylemcdonald says:
Nov 13, 2008. 6:35 AM REPLY
Nice idea. I like the reuse of the case/mounting/disks and augmenting something that had an alternative use in its previous life. I feel like the original sine
waves could be decoded by a microcontroller, though, without any intermediary hardware. And probably with better resolution than 1 bit (i.e., forward or
backward).
DanOverholt says:
Nov 13, 2008. 4:33 AM REPLY
Hi - great project, nice work! I noticed you might be interested in translating the data output from your project into MIDI, and thought I would mention that
such firmware is available for my CREATE USB Interface - CUI http://www.create.ucsb.edu/~dano/CUI/ - that sends MIDI-over-USB and would be able to
control many music/VJ packages out of the box. It is for the PIC18F4550, the "big brother" of your PIC18F2550 of course, but it's just a matter of changing
the processor type #include and recompiling. Of course, it would be simple to put the opamp in the prototyping section of a CUI board, so this would also be
an easy project for those that have an old hard drive and a CUI laying around...
hazzalflame says:
Nov 13, 2008. 12:03 AM REPLY
could you give us a complete list of tasty ingredients please and thank you!!!
sypher says:
Nov 12, 2008. 10:28 PM REPLY
that is awesome, that is quite ingenious.
LinuxH4x0r says:
Sweet! 5/5
Nov 12, 2008. 9:29 PM REPLY
Arx says:
Nov 12, 2008. 9:00 PM REPLY
Weight it, and drive it at 33 or 45 rpm and it'll be really good for the DJs. :)
chipboy says:
Nov 12, 2008. 6:19 PM REPLY
SO IS THIS TECHNICALLY A CDJ U CAN SCRATCH AND TREAT AS 1
GorillazMiko says:
Nov 12, 2008. 6:15 PM REPLY
That's incredible! I gotta try this out.
Hope to see more projects from you!
+5/5 stars.
(added to favorites)
tyler_durden says:
Nov 12, 2008. 4:33 PM REPLY
Great! Why didn't I think of this?
Did you check the number of pulses per revolution?
ker-boom101 says:
Nov 12, 2008. 2:24 PM REPLY
so technically this is a working turntable
that can be hooked up with a computer to Dj?
if so could i know the quality of the scratching??
knexfan9182 says:
Nov 12, 2008. 1:27 PM REPLY
''''''' hi'''''
crapflinger says:
....NIFTY!
if you haven't already started...are you going to post one for the cubic crossfade? that thing looks nifty!
Nov 12, 2008. 12:17 PM REPLY
How to Connect a Sensor with Audio Input and Output
by jojporg on November 7, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: How to Connect a Sensor with Audio Input and Output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: The Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: The Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Preparation: Power from USB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Preparation: Connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Breadboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: Dry Fit the Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 7: Solder Stuff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 8: Quality Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 9: Connect to the Audio Input, Audio Output, and Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 10: Some Software . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 11: Moment of the Connection - 1 (CDS Photocell) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 12: Moment of the Connection - 2 (Distance Sensor: SHARP GP2D12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 13: Uses? Shaker Percussion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 14: Application: AEO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
step 15: Possible Improvements and Modifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
http://www.instructables.com/id/How_to_Connect_a_Sensor_with_Audio_Input_and_Outpu/
intro: How to Connect a Sensor with Audio Input and Output
A sensor is one of a basic component for capturing physical environment. You can get the change of light with a CDS photocell, you can measure the space with a
distance sensor, and you can capture your movement with an accelerometer.
There are already several way to use push buttons in your projects (e.g. hacking mouse and keyboard, or Arduino, gainer, MCK). This probides alternative way to use
faders with audio input and output. With a tiny circuit (which you will make), you can get sensor data with audio!
As side effects, it provides you with precious sampling resolution and frequency than the previous ways (i.e. 16bit to 8-10bit, 44.1KHz to 1KHz).
You can see examples of this with CDS photocell, and distance sensor (SHARP GP2D12).
We also present a sharker percussion with accelerometer and an application of this instructable from a sound performance project AEO.
All you need is just a sensor, some soldering, and some software.
Note: This is for analog voltage produce type sensors only. This will not work on digital type.
Note2: This is a series of "How to coonect with Audio". Please see others: Button, and Fader.
Note3: Allison and Place developed the SensorBox. The device accepted six sensor inputs and two audio inputs. The data from each sensor was carried as the
amplitude of a sine wave, and mixed back on the two audio inputs. They did not provide its technical detail well, however their approach was quite same as this
instructable.
step 1: The Parts
Most of the components can be found at your local electronics shop (e.g. maplin in UK, RadioShack in USA, Tokyu-Hands in Japan). However you may need to use
online electronic components store (e.g. RS in UK, Digi-Key in USA, Marutsu in Japan) for transformer and diaode.
1 Circuit board
2 Transformer / ST-75
The transformer adjusts the voltage. In this time, we use 'ST-75' from Hashimoto-Sansui. However other transformer could be used if its satisfy the specification (e.g.
TRIADSP-29). Currently we try to figure out they could be used or not.
4 Germanium Diode / 1K60 (1N60)
The diode allows an electric current to pass in one direction.
3 2-point Power terminal
For audio input, output, and power.
1 3-point Power terminal
For sensor.
2 RCA AudioPlug
One for audio input and another for audio output.
1 Quad Cable
For circuit and connectors. The length depends on how long you want.
1 USB cable
For power.
1 Pair of DC connector
For power.
Image Notes
1. USB cable
2. RCA AudioPlug
3. 2-point Power terminal
4. 3-point Power terminal
5. Circuit board
6. Pair of DC connector
7. Transformer / ST-75
8. Germanium Diode / 1K60 (1N60)
9. Quad Cable
step 2: The Tools
These are standard tools for assembling this project. I borrow part of the list from greyhathacker45's great work, thanks!
Soldering Iron
Solder
Multimeter
Wire Strippers
Nippers
Solder-sucker
Helping Hands
Clipped Cables
Screw Driver
Image Notes
1. Screw Driver
2. Multimeter
3. Nipper
4. Clipped Cables
5. Solder
6. Solder-sucker
7. Wire Stripper
8. Helping Hand
9. Soldering Iron
step 3: Preparation: Power from USB
To obtain power for sensor (the circuit does not need power), you can use 5v (most sensor work with this voltage) from USB. Cut a standard USB cable and solder DC
connector to voltage and ground sides (usually red is for voltage, and black is for ground, but you should check the correct line with multimeter).
step 4: Preparation: Connectors
To have audio input, output, and power, it would be better to use connctors. Before soldering, the plug cover needs to be installed in the cable . The cutting side of the
cable needs to be twisted to avoid expanses. After soldering, just attach the cover for the plugs.
step 5: Breadboard
Before soldering, it would be nice to check the circuit with a breadboard.
Image Notes
1. 2-point Power terminal for Power
2. 2-point Power terminal for Audio Output
3. 2-point Power terminal for Audio Input
6. 3-point Power terminal for Sensor
7. Germanium Diode / 1K60
step 6: Dry Fit the Components
Let's layout everything on the board. If you have some trouble, please use our layout. The black dots show where the pins go through the board.
Image Notes
1. ST-75
2. ST-75
3. 1K60
4. 1K60
5. 1K60
6. 1K60
7. Terminal for Power (Left: Power, Right: Ground)
8. Terminal for Sensor (Left: Power, Center: Signal from Sensor, Right: Ground)
9. Terminal for Audio Input (Left: Signal, Right: Ground)
10. Terminal for Audio Output (Left: Signal, Right: Ground)
step 7: Solder Stuff
Now you ready to solder the components on.
Image Notes
1. 2-point Power terminal for Audio Output
2. 2-point Power terminal for Audio Input
5. 4 * Germanium Diode / 1K60
6. 3-point Power terminal for Sensor
7. 2-point Power terminal for Power
step 8: Quality Control
Make sure that you have no accidental soldering. Multimeter is good for checking!
step 9: Connect to the Audio Input, Audio Output, and Power
Now you have a working hardware. Audio input and output are connected to separate audio cables. Power is connected to the custom USB cable.
step 10: Some Software
Open your programming environment (e.g. MaxMSP, Pure Data, Flash, SuperCollider). If it could treat audio input and output, any environment is ok.
In this time, we use MaxMSP.
Assign an audio signal (e.g. 10000Hz sine wave) for audio output.
Set volume calculator for audio input. In this time, we use 'peakamp~' object.
Add a receiver for the calculator. In this time, we use 'multislider' object.
Here is a basic example of MaxMSP patche.
MaxMSP: sensor-001.maxpat
File Downloads
sensor-001.maxpat (3 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'sensor-001.maxpat']
step 11: Moment of the Connection - 1 (CDS Photocell)
Connect a CDS Photocell to the board. One is connected to power, and the other is connected to signal.
CDS Photocell changes its output voltage by received amounts of light.
Start audio, cover the CDS photocell, and get the connection! You're ready to use a CDS photocell with your projects.
If it does not work, you just need to adjust the volume for audio output.
Video
Image Notes
1. Power
2. Signal
3. CDS Photocell
step 12: Moment of the Connection - 2 (Distance Sensor: SHARP GP2D12)
Connect a Distance Sensor (SHARP GP2D12) to the board. One is connected to power, one is connected to signal, and the last is connected to ground.
The Distance Sensor changes its output voltage with the distance between the sensor and object.
Start audio, move the distance sensor, and get the connection! You're ready to use a distance sensor with your projects.
If it does not work, you just need to adjust the volume for audio output.
Video
Image Notes
1. Power
2. Signal
3. Ground
4. Distance Sensor (SHARP GP2D12)
Image Notes
1. Distance Sensor
2. Circuit
step 13: Uses? Shaker Percussion
There are many possible uses for a sensor with Audio Input and Output. One of a feasible field is sound instrument. We made a Shaker Percussion with this instructable.
It can make use of its precious samping resolution and sampling frequency.
Here is the setup. You will need split you audio output with stereo to dual mono cable. Connect an Accerelometer Kionix KXM-52() to the board. It's 3-axis but in this time
we just use one axis of the accerelometer. One is connected to power, one is connected to signal, and the last is connected to ground. On one channel you connect the
board, and on another, you connect a speaker. It would be nice have a mixer between the audio output and the speaker to separately control the volume of the
percussion.
In your software, you add a noise generator, and a volume to your basic patch. You also need an adjustment to fit the value from the accerelometer to the volume of the
noise generator. Now, you can finely control the noise generator like a shaker percussion!
Here is a MaxMSP patch.
MaxMSP: shaker-002.maxpat
Video
File Downloads
shaker-002.maxpat (4 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'shaker-002.maxpat']
step 14: Application: AEO
is a sound performance project consisting of three members: Eye (Performance), Taeji Sawai (Sound Design), and Kazuhiro Jo (Instrument Design). We transform the
change of acceleration in each axis of accelerometer as the amplitude of audio signal by extending this instructable.
Video
Video
Video
Video
step 15: Possible Improvements and Modifications
You can use other types of sensors instead, if it can work with 5v and produce analog voltage.
Though the sampling resolution of the movement is 16-bit or more (if you use external audio interfaces), you can use this instructable for controlling precious parameters
(e.g frequency of oscillator).
If you need more sensors, you can extend the number with additional boards and external audio interfaces. In this time, you need to use proper plugs for the port of the
audio interface.
How to Connect
a Push Button
with Audio Input
and Output by
jojporg
How to Connect
a Fader with
Audio Input and
Output by jojporg
Multimodal
Hyper guitar
(with special
Music Stand by
deal for
DanOverholt
"instructablers")
by I-CubeX
How to Listen to
Light by Jack A
Lopez
Contest Entry:
iRobot Create
Protoype 3Sensor Platform
by Diane
Blackwood
Sparky - DIY
Web-Based
Telepresence
Robot by
sparkyrust
Weekly Project:
A Handheld 3-D
Camera:
Without Using a
Camera by PSdp
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Comments
3 comments
Add Comment
leahbuechley says:
Nov 26, 2008. 5:59 AM REPLY
cool instructable! Very useful, simple & elegant. It would be nice to see a video of the simple interaction that also included sound. Do you have any of those?
jojporg says:
Nov 27, 2008. 11:07 AM REPLY
hi, thanks for your comment! i just added "Uses? Shaker Percussion" as a (kind of simple :)) example of interaction. hope it works!
leahbuechley says:
awesome!
Nov 27, 2008. 5:56 PM REPLY
How to get from SK to Alsion
by undef on November 7, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: How to get from SK to Alsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Check the weather! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Out the door. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 3: Just keep going . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Onto Skovvej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 5: Why did the chicken cross the road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 6: Ringrider - Shortcut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 7: Over the Ringriderplads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 8: Almost into town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 9: Through town. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 10: City Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 11: down to the bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 12: Left at the German Church . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 13: Over the bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 14: Zebra crossing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 15: Alsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
9
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
9
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
http://www.instructables.com/id/How_to_get_from_SK_to_Alsion/
intro: How to get from SK to Alsion
A little different take on an "instructable"... I'll "instruct" how you get from my home to university.
Along the way you'll catch a glimpse of lovely little sonderborg, too bad it was a grey-gray day otherwise I would've walked along the beach and past the harbour.
It would've been great if I could've made this instructable non-linear. :)
btw, Sonderborg is located on the Island of Als, in southern Denmark. So far south it's almost in Germany.
step 1: Check the weather!
This being Denmark AND autumn: before you leave ALWAYS look out the window, eventhough it's always grey and wet and windy this time of year it'll remind you to put
on some proper shoes before heading out.
step 2: Out the door.
Turn left!
It's not the nicest view (the renovations are almost over, give them another 4 months) but well, it's about 8:30 now, who cares about the view at this time of day.
step 3: Just keep going
Next to SK, is UK, the other "kollegiet" , student dorms where most of the students end up at some part of their stay in Sonderborg.
step 4: Onto Skovvej
Turn left, onto Skovvej.
Not much to see here, it's still grey and windy and wet.
step 5: Why did the chicken cross the road
Cross the road and keep walking, there's not much on this side of town, just family homes
See those little flags in the extra picture? Danes and their flags, they're everywhere, one out of three houses has a flagpole in front... and you can get fined if you forget to
bring the full-size flag back in before nightfall. Apparently that's why many people have the mini-version (me thinks it's really because it gets too windy for full-size flags).
Those flagpoles are so popular you can now by TV-antennas that double as flagpoles.
step 6: Ringrider - Shortcut
Turn right at the Airteam sign.
If it's really windy you're better off going straight and then taking a right, we're taking a shortcut over the "Ringriderplads" an open space where the wind has free reign...
especially when it's raining it'll cut straight through you.
Also, when it's dark, watch out for the low-flying alien saucers. They're dogs with blinking lights on their collars, the dogs are usually not the problem though: It's the leash
tied to the doggy's owner that'll trip you up.
step 7: Over the Ringriderplads
walk across the field diagonally, simply keep on the asphalt and you won't go wrong.
The general purpose square of Sonderborg, from monster truck madness to beerfests.. and of course the actual "ringriding" (a thing with lots of horses with drunk people
who try to aim a very big stick through a very small hole).
Note the little kiddie in the ski-suit. It's the standard outfit for any kid that can walk but can't argue over its own clothes yet.
step 8: Almost into town
turn left towards the traffic lights. (almost halfway now, 8.45.)
A lot of schools are in this area, from the german kindergarten to gymnasiums (one of which has a weird statue of a guy on a chair which no Dane has managed to
explain to me)
step 9: Through town.
keep on following the road into town,
First you'll pass Netto & Kvikly (gotta love that spelling) two competing supermarkets, accross the road from each other. Often you'll find the same products in both, but
Netto's cheaper!
Image Notes
1. Nisse no sinterklaas or samichlaus around here... instead they have Nisse, sooooo "hyggelig"
step 10: City Hall
Keep following the road, when in doubt, turn away from the "fat" lady and pass the polser shop.
Weirdest thing about sonderborg: people (germans :) drive up here... to get married. In summer you'll find people in their best clothes sipping champagne out of plastic
cups, chilled in picnic baskets.
The always thoughtful Danes at the tourist office also provide a doggy-bar, so "inclusive" :D
Image Notes
1. Polser shop The danish equivalent of a "fritkot". Sausage-in-a-bun, sausage-ona-stick, sausage-with-sausage.
step 11: down to the bridge
No time for shopping today, so turn left down towards the church and the bridge.
step 12: Left at the German Church
Take a left down to the bridge.
This is the "german church", not sure why it's called german but it's different from the Danish white-and-square things you normally see around here.
The church is perfect for checking whether I'm late or not... it's 8.55... guess I'll be , class starts at 9!
step 13: Over the bridge
Can't go much wrong on a bridge... just keep walking and try not to get blown over by a sudden gust of wind. But do take your time to have a look over the harbour (in
summer full of a yachts, 3 rows deep) and the "castle".
On the other side of the bridge there's a house easily winning the prize for worst location ever. caught between the main road into town (and until they built the new
bridge, the only road onto the island) and the old railroad tracks... even more amazing is that the owner recently renovated it and built a small roofterrace, can't wait to
stare into the headlights of the oncoming traffic.
step 14: Zebra crossing
Take a right over the pedestrian crossing and down to Alsion, we're almost there...
Accross the water you can see the military school (their clock is always stuck at 9) and the hospital (Fraenzi works in the 4th tower from the right)
The banner on the side of Alsion is about Frank Gehry's plan to redevelop the waterfront in front of the military school, it's a huge project (so far they've burned through
all the funding, just pay Gehry's fee... or so the rumour goes :)
step 15: Alsion
We've arrived! Turn right, and take the elevator to the 4th floor.
You can find me in the Interaction Studio.
Hope you enjoyed the walk,
jo.
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leahbuechley says:
fun diary!
Nov 16, 2008. 12:04 PM REPLY
How to Make an Inflatable Heart
by katehartman on November 2, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: How to Make an Inflatable Heart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Trace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Sew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Attach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 5: Tubing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 7: Balloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 8: Heart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 9: Pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 10: Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 11: Inflate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 12: Deflate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 13: Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 14: Give . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
8
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
8
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
http://www.instructables.com/id/How_to_Make_an_Inflatable_Heart/
intro: How to Make an Inflatable Heart
Hearts are meant to be broken. This device is daring but delicate - capable of making a bold statement but only when risking explosion. It is versatile in use, exposing the
flighty triumphs and frustrations of contact with a prospective other or expressing anxiety, admiration, or pride.
step 1: Start
Start by gathering all the parts you need.
(1) smallish red balloon
(1) blood pressure bulb
(1) small piece of white or sheer fabric
(1 ) piece of 3/16" plastic tubing
(2) small rubber bands
You can probably find most of these materials at home or at your local store.
Image Notes
1. (1) 5" round balloon
2. (2) small rubber bands
3. (1) piece of fabric
4. (1) safety pin
5. (1) length of 3/16? plastic tubing
6. (1) blood pressure bulb & valve
step 2: Trace
Trace a heart pattern twice onto your piece of fabric. Your heart should be around 4" tall and 3" wide, with an tail at the bottom that is at least 1" wide. Cut out your heart
shapes, leaving a half inch margin around the edge of your lines.
step 3: Sew
Lay the two hearts on top of each other. Using a sewing machine, sew along the line, leaving the bottom tail of the heart open.
step 4: Attach
Attach a safety pin to the back layer of your heart.
step 5: Tubing
Cut the flexible plastic tubing to your desired length.
step 6: Pump
Insert the nozzle of the pump into one end of the plastic tubing.
step 7: Balloon
Attach the balloon to the other end of the tubing with one of the small rubber bands.
step 8: Heart
Use the heart to encase the balloon. Attach to the tubing with the second rubber band.
step 9: Pin
Your Inflatable Heart is now complete! Attach heart with the pin.
step 10: Pump
Grasp bulb in hand.
step 11: Inflate
Squeeze to inflate.
step 12: Deflate
Press button to deflate.
step 13: Use
Use heart in place of words to express yourself.
Video
step 14: Give
Give to a friend.
Inflatable Heart
Demonstration
(video) by
katehartman
Inflatable Love
Seat by randofo
Quick 'n' Easy
Heart Print Card
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Mathematics .
No Glue .
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by golics
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Origami: Paper
Cube (video) by
BlindSight
Stone Heart
Pendent by The
Mollusk
Crocheted
Amigurumistyle Hearts
(slideshow) by
pkruep
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leahbuechley says:
how cool! want video included on this page :)
Nov 16, 2008. 8:04 AM REPLY
How to Make Sloe gin
by faraway on November 11, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: How to Make Sloe gin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 6: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 7: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 8: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
8
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
8
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
http://www.instructables.com/id/How_to_Make_Sloe_gin/
intro: How to Make Sloe gin
How to make Suffolk sloe gin
Intro: This is an old country recipe from Suffolk, England. It was handed down from my neighbour's great aunt, who lived on the Suffolk/Norfolk border. It's not really a
recipe, more just a loose set of instructions. The nice thing about sloe gin is that it lends itself to improvisation; because everyone in the countryside seems to know how
to make it, everyone tends to make it a little differently. It's useful to have some basic guidelines to start with though, before one starts improvising.
step 1:
Step 1. Materials and Equipment
This recipe is enough for two bottles of sloe gin
Ingredients
Gin: one litre
Sloes: (more on that in the next step)
Sugar: approximately 300 grams (more on that as well)
Equipment
Container for collecting sloes (we used plastic bags and got juice all over us. I would recommend a plastic Tupperware or something similar)
Large needle or small fork or anything that you can pierce with
Wine glass
Empty bottle
Image Notes
1. We used Gordon's but any gin will do, actually it's probably smarter to use cheap gin as the sloes and sugar cover the taste of gin
step 2:
Step 2. Stare at this picture for a moment, to confirm your sloe identification skills. Sloes are the berries of the blackthorn bush, which is a common bush which grow in
hedgerows in England. (Hedgerows are sort of like wild hedges that grow on country paths in England; they're not exactly wild cause someone planted them but some of
them are over 700 years old. So they seem sort of wild, or at least really old.) Sloes are blue and round, and larger than blueberries. They taste fairly nasty on their own.
step 3:
Step 3. Get a container and head out to the countryside. In England, October and November are typically the best sloe picking months, because the sloes are ripe by
then. Very helpful to bring someone who knows the countryside a little. Partly to point out which berries are sloes, or if it's been a wet autumn to help you find the sloes
which may not have grown well, but mostly just to keep you company and help you pick. Pick as many as you can, as lots of people seem to like sloe gin so if you make
too much, you can give it away at Christmas which is when it will be ready.
step 4:
Step 4. Take a litre of gin, and pour half of it in an empty water bottle (or something better looking if you have it handy). In theory it would be best to sterilize the empty
water bottle first but I think gin acts as a sterilizer. No one I know ever sterilizes their bottles and they're all still here, even after drinking lots of homemade sloe gin.
step 5:
Step 5. Here's the tricky part. Take your sloes and one by one, prick them with something sharp. Based on the recommendation of my neighbour's aunt, we used a
sewing needle. However, by the end of six bottles we had moved onto forks, which were a lot faster and seemed to work just as well. Fill the gin bottle and the empty
bottle almost to the top with pricked sloes. (The sloes will displace the gin towards the top of the bottle, so you'll end up with half sloes, half gin).
step 6:
Step 6. Add a wine glass full of sugar; that's the recipe used in Suffolk, which is a bit arbitrary to say the least. I suppose it gives people flexibility to make the gin to their
liking. A useful rule of thumb is to figure on 150 grams of sugar per gin bottle. Because we had picked too many sloes, we ended up making six bottles, four of gin and
two of vodka (we ran out of gin). We added differing amounts of sugar to each bottle; by the end, we were so tired of the whole thing we didn't care how much sugar we
added. It worked fine and having differing amounts of sugar ended up sort of like having different vintages.
Image Notes
1. this is a brandy snifter rather than a wineglass but it was smaller than my wine glasses and I didn't want it to be too sweet.
step 7:
Step 7. Close the bottles tightly and put them away somewhere. Whenever you notice them, pick them up and give them a shake. Some people say to shake them
weekly, some monthly and some never get round to shaking them at all. We shook them whenever we thought of it, which was maybe a couple times a month. Your sloe
gin should be ready to drink by Christmas. By February, it should taste even better. Because we liked the artisanal look of the sloes floating around and we're lazy, we
didn't ever get round to taking out the sloes. The rule of thumb is to strain the sloes out after six months; after that, they start to get a bit funky.
step 8:
Step 8. Enjoy! It makes a lovely cordial for the winter months and works brilliantly in the place of cold medicine. Drinking a couple of glasses of sloe gin makes you forget
you ever had a cold :)
Infuse
Vodka, Rum or
Gin. by
Sebastian Tonic
Using up
leftover lemons
and limes by
Ingerson
Classic Martini
by
ColumbusGEEK
Homemade
Summer Citrusade...like
lemonade, but
better! by aliciak
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Turn a
Bottle Into a
Nifty Match
Holder by
Seppuko
Easy ATV Quad
Trailer Hitch by
triumphman
Eerily Delicious
Halloween
Dinner by
maicoh
Cranberry
Infused Vodka
by mikeasaurus
Comments
ax89 says:
Nov 25, 2008. 8:58 PM REPLY
I have learned some new things today - I had no idea that there was a type of berry called a 'sloe' or that there was actually a delightful sounding beverage
called sloe gin. I am aware of a font called "sloe gin rickey" - is that a beverage too??
gong55 says:
Nov 22, 2008. 3:39 PM REPLY
And there's life in those sloes yet! When they've done in the gin and you've taken them out, cover these gin-soaked sloes in sherry (fairly sweet is fine, but it
depends on what you like) in a sealed container and leave for a week or two, shaking occasionally if you can remember. It won't get the richness and colour
of a good sloe gin, but it perks up a cheap sherry...
PKM says:
Nov 12, 2008. 9:33 AM REPLY
Someone needs to think up a cocktail involving this that you can set on fire, just so you can call it a "Sloe burner". Or maybe a "sloe comfortable
(censored)"...
If you follow this Instructable, don't be tempted to eat raw sloes. They have the magical ability to suck all of the water out of your mouth and replace it with a
very strange, bitter, powdery sensation. There's an entire glass of sugar for a reason.
littletom34 says:
Nov 21, 2008. 1:47 AM REPLY
There really is a drink called a "Sloe Comfort-able Screw" which is a variant of the classic screwdriver. It's made with sloe gin, Southern Comfort and
orange juice.
PKM says:
Nov 21, 2008. 3:35 AM REPLY
I... wow. The levels of punning in that name are turning my brain inside out. Also, it sounds delicious.
littletom34 says:
Nov 21, 2008. 1:54 AM REPLY
I never knew that sloe gin was really made with gin. Ya learn somethin' new every day, if you're not careful.
Your method works with any fruit/alcohol combination. Vodka works best if you want the flavor of the fruit to be the main focus. Everclear gives you a really
"potent potable" as they say on Jeopardy. x)
djbarista says:
Nov 21, 2008. 12:31 AM REPLY
use dragon fruit
jello666 says:
Nov 20, 2008. 6:21 PM REPLY
I did something similar this fall with crabapples and rose petals using mason jars instead of water bottles. It turned out quite well.
gr8gran64 says:
Nov 20, 2008. 5:09 PM REPLY
Can you only get Sloe's in England?? Dumb question probably.....I don't know if we have them here in the States...
jongscx says:
Nov 20, 2008. 3:07 PM REPLY
...I have no idea what sloes are... can we just use blueberries instead?
susie says:
Nov 20, 2008. 12:28 PM REPLY
Awesome to know in case they bring back prohibition with the depression! Isn't gin made with juniper berries? Those are plentiful, in California anyway.
jongscx says:
Nov 20, 2008. 3:07 PM REPLY
...this is just a way of flavoring the gin... You'd still need to get gin to make this...
bustedit says:
but what do you do if there's a bustle in the hedgerow? need I be alarmed?
Nov 12, 2008. 11:23 AM REPLY
1arrow24 says:
Nov 13, 2008. 2:26 AM REPLY
naw, that's usually just a spring clean for the may queen:)
bustedit says:
Nov 13, 2008. 6:31 AM REPLY
heh, heh, good ol zep.
nice instructable, too. very easy, cept for the waiting. I assume this could be adapted to any berry? i know that liqour containing sugar can give a
nasty hangover, will this if taken in excess??
faraway says:
Nov 13, 2008. 2:23 PM REPLY
it probably could be adapted to most berries, I would think, although the fact that people having been making sloe gin in the countryside for a long
time does kind of make you wonder...i mean, you never hear about plum gin or raspberry gin, for example. but it's worth trying it out. As for the
hangover, drinking a lot of sloe gin reminds me of taking Nyquil (or Night Nurse in the UK)...kind of groggy but not in a bad way. but I suppose it
depends on how excessive is excess :)
AndyGadget says:
Nov 13, 2008. 11:26 AM REPLY
AARGH! I hate it when that happens.
I was getting all geared up to do a sloe gin instructable, and you beat me to it! All I'm missing is the sloes and I'm planning on sloe hunting this weekend
(although my usual favourite places have had a very poor crop this year).
Nice work though, I think you've covered everything, and I'd second your comments about the sugar. Many of the recipes use way too much (for my taste)
and you end up with a very sickly end product. I think you've got it about right.
I usually make sloe gin in demijohns, and had a three-john-year last year, so drinking plenty this winter. It changes and improves with age, and develops a
taste similar to a tawny port after a couple of years - if you can keep it that long. We finished off our three-year-old sloe gin a couple of weeks ago.
jessyratfink says:
Nov 12, 2008. 7:07 AM REPLY
I've never heard of a sloe before today, but this is really interesting. I don't really drink, but I think the things people do with alcohol are amazing. :D
faraway says:
Nov 13, 2008. 3:49 AM REPLY
yeah, it is kind of weird. i had always thought sloe gin was spelled 'slow gin' and i thought it was some kind of process for making gin (not that i had ever
really thought about it that much). when i moved to the country and people talked about picking sloes for gin, i just had to try it out. it's much nicer than it
sounds - beautiful color, really easy to drink and very strong.
jessyratfink says:
Nov 13, 2008. 6:32 AM REPLY
Yeah, I love the color!
I'm still really curious about this whole fruit/berries + alcohol thing. I think the closest I'll get here in Kentucky is the cranberry infused vodka!
sonic_dan says:
Nov 12, 2008. 10:29 AM REPLY
An easier method than pricking them all is to just put the sloes in a bag and put them in the freezer. This splits the skins - this is the way I've always done it
and i've never had a problem! Just put the frozen sloes into your gin mixture and they'll thaw out. Another reason this is great is if you pick too many sloes
(this inevitably happens), just keep them in the freezer, and you can use them whenever you want, without the need to prick them.
I make sloe vodka in a similar way. I just pour the vodka out of the bottle (70cl bottle) into a jug, and fill the empty bottle roughly 1/3 full of sloes, add sugar
until the bottle is about half full, and then pour the vodka back in - as much of it as you can. Then I just shake it every week, or whenever I remember to. This
results in a really sweet sloe vodka that is great in the summer with lots of ice and lemonade, in a jug. I have a bottle that is nearly 2 years old that I haven't
got round to yet!
Nice instructable. 5 stars :)
faraway says:
Nov 13, 2008. 3:08 AM REPLY
the freezer bit is a very good idea. pricking the sloes is a pain after the first five minutes of novelty has worn off. plus it gives you time to get more gin or
vodka if you've picked too many sloes. we almost ended up making sloe cognac (possibly interesting) and sloe Baileys (truly disgusting) before we found
a forgotten bottle of vodka...
chrisreeve says:
Nov 12, 2008. 7:54 AM REPLY
In Surrey, the done thing is to add the sugar to your own personal taste after about two months.
faraway says:
that makes sense...
Nov 13, 2008. 3:04 AM REPLY
code_e says:
Nov 12, 2008. 11:16 AM REPLY
I suspect a completely acceptable version of this could be made using Chokecherry fruit, Prunus virginiana, by us yanks that don't have access to sloe
berries. Chokecherries are a wild shrub in the same genus that is popular for making things like preserves, jelly, pies, etc.. They also share the characteristic
of being horribly astringent when raw (hence the name), but make a superb cooked product.
faraway says:
Nov 13, 2008. 3:02 AM REPLY
chokecherry fruit is a fantastic name. My parents used to occasionally drink really cheap gin that they referred to as 'rotgut' (no doubt for a reason). I
think if you used rotgut gin you could make 'chokecherry rotgut' which would sound really cool. I would definitely be intrigued/impressed (maybe possibly
alarmed) if someone gave me chokecherry rotgut for a Christmas present...
ast says:
I like the country picture. Are those two sproggets allowed to drink sloe gin (even when cold ridden)?
Have to say, as well, nothing beats a Cornish hedgerow.
Nov 13, 2008. 1:10 AM REPLY
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~sk1/air.html
A Simple low-cost Home VOCs sensor
Sunyoung Kim
[email protected]
Human-Computer Interaction Institute
Carnegie Mellon
Eric Paulos
[email protected]
Human-Computer Interaction Institute
Carnegie Mellon
This page is to appear at the ACM SIGCHI 2009 WORKSHOP:
"DIY for CHI: Methods, Communities, and Values of Reuse and Customization"
For my bio, click my name, click here.
1. Research Descrption
People spend approximately 90 percent of their time indoors, which makes indoor air quality a major
contributing factor towards their health. For non experts, measuring and understanding air quality is
difficult without special tools and expensive equipment.
Our goal is to investigate low-cost sensing with DIY strategies to enable everyday citizens to learn
about indoor air quality. We are looking at multiple environmental sensors in our research. In this
study we demonstrate the use of a low cost($14) VOC sensor.
2. What are VOCs?
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are emitted as gases from certain solids or liquids. VOCs include
a variety of chemicals, some of which may have short- and long-term adverse health effects.
Concentrations of many VOCs are consistently higher indoors (up to ten times higher) than outdoors.
VOCs are emitted by a wide array of products numbering in the thousands. Examples include: paints
and lacquers, paint strippers, cleaning supplies, pesticides, building materials and furnishings, office
equipment such as copiers and printers, correction fluids and carbonless copy paper, graphics and
craft materials including glues and adhesives, permanent markers, and photographic solutions.
Organic chemicals are widely used as ingredients in household products. Paints, varnishes, and wax
all contain organic solvents, as do many cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic, degreasing, and hobby
products. Fuels are made up of organic chemicals. All of these products can release organic
compounds while you are using them, and, to some degree, when they are stored.
(Cited from EPA)
3. Parts for the circuit
TG2620 by Figaro
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Arduino Board
Potentiometer
1.2 Kohms Resistor
Breadboard
LED array
4. VOCs sensor: TG2620 ($14)
(1) Description
This sensor is an electrochemical device to detect the gases in air such as Ethanol (C2H6O), Hydrogen
(H), Iso-butane (CH3CH(CH3)2), Carbon Monoxide (CO), Methane (CH4).
The sensor consists of four pins: two of the four pins on the sensor are connected to a heater and the
other two are connected to the sensing element. Gas levels are determined by measuring the voltage
across a load resistor which is put between the negative pin of the sensing element and ground. This
change in resistance can be sent as an analog value to a microprocessor.
(2) Features of TG2620
High sensitivity to VOCs and odorous gases
Low power consumption
High sensitivity to gaseous air contaminants
Small size
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(3) Structure
(4) Circuit Diagram
5. Steps (click images to enlarge)
Step 1
You need parts:
a TG 2620 VOCs sensor (data sheet)
a potentiometer
an 1.2 Kohms Resistor
an arduino board (Diecimila)
a breadboard
a capacitor (optional)
an LED array
wires
Step 2
First of all put the VOC sensor onto the breadboard.
The sensor has four pinss. Pin 3 and pin 4 go to Power, and pin 1 to Ground.
Pin 2 is the output. It is connected to Potentiometer and Ground.
Also it is connected to an arduino board, analog pin 0.
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Step 3
Insert the 1.2kohms resistor between pin 1 and Power.
This creates a voltage divider necessary to measure the output of the sensor.
Step 4
Insert the LED array.
We used a 10 segment led array. Each pin is connected to a separate arduino digital output line.
We chose a simple sensor output using a series of LEDs to visualize the concentration of VOCs in the air.
Step 5
Insert a capacitor between pin 1 and Ground to stabilize the power signal.
Step 6
Connect Power and Ground from a breadboard to an aurduino board.
Also connect pin 2 to an arduino analog pin 0.
Step 7
Insert a potentiometer between pin 2 and Ground.
We chose a potentiometer to alter the resistance of the load resistor. As an alternative, you can use a fixed register.
Step 8
We are now ready to test the setup.
* Test result video
We burned a paper to test the setup.
The combustion of a piece of paper generated carbon, CO2, some nitrogens and water vapor, and this gaseous air was sensored by the VOCs sensor.
An array LED was lighted responding this gaseous air.
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6. Video
This video illustrate the entire steps above.
* Come check Living Environments Lab for more environment related projects
http://www.living-environments.net
* Contact me if you have any question about this project.
[email protected]
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Laser Multitouch Surface | CNMAT
http://cnmat.berkeley.edu/recipe/laser_multitouch_surface
Home
Laser Multitouch Surface
Sun, 2008-07-20 14:58 — Yotam Mann
Image:
This is an inexpensive way to turn any surface into an input device that senses the x & y position of multiple
simultaneous touch points. The hardware necessary is easy to find online by following the links below, or at a well
stocked electronics store: a webcam, two mountable lasers, a power source for the lasers, and something to prop up the
camera with. The required software is available for free download on the CNMAT website in the form of a Max/MSP/Jitter
patch.
There are innumerable uses for a multitouch surface; the software includes one simple audio application. Each finger
controls an oscillator with the y-position mapped to volume and the x-position mapped to frequency. The software can
also pick up the lean of the fingers using the aspect ratio of the laser beam across the finger. When a finger is
perpendicular to the surface, the height of the laser beam across that finger is smaller than when a finger is pitched back.
This adds another parameter of control, which, in the included software, is mapped to a timbral change using FM
synthesis.
Ingredients:
Red Laser Module 100mW
Green Laser Module 35mW
iSight Webcam
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Clear Acrylic Rod
Helping Hand with Magnifier
Steps:
1. Cut an acrylic rod to about an inch long. Using double sided tape,
attach the acrylic rod vertically in front of the laser so that the rod
refracts the light into a horizontal plane. Repeat on the other laser.
2. Place the lasers in the two back corners of your work surface
facing towards each other at about 45˚.
3. Attach the lasers to a power source.
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12/18/08 11:35 AM
4. Align the lasers so that the beam plane is parallel over the entire
surface.
5. Use your finger to check multiple spots across the surface.
Anywhere you place your finger, there should be a horizontal laser
line running across it. Then mount the lasers securely with tape.
6. Place a webcam facing downward about 45˚ at a distance high
enough that it can see the entire work surface. About 6 inches works
well for the size of the surface that I used. I also find that a
third-arm works well for holding light webcams.
7. Run the Max/MSP software and follow the directions for start up
and calibration. Now you have a working multitouch surface.
Related Links
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12/18/08 11:35 AM
Video from Yotam Mann's Blog (61)
Visit Video from Yotam Mann's Blog
Printer friendly version
Comments
Sun, 2008-09-21 13:11 — Grant Nestor
Re: Laser Multitouch Surface
hey yotam, can you post the max patch for this setup? or email it to me: grantnestor at gmail dot com. thanks!!
Copyright © 2008 Regents of the University of California at Berkeley. All rights reserved.
Administrative Contact: Richard Andrews <[email protected]>
Center for New Music and Audio Technologies
1750 Arch Street
Berkeley, California
94720 U.S.A.
(510) 643-9990
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LED holiday star
by susannes on December 10, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: LED holiday star . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: stuff you will need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: programming your microcontroller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: sand the LEDs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: solder your circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 5: enjoy your star! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
5
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
5
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
http://www.instructables.com/id/LED_holiday_star/
intro: LED holiday star
This Instructable will show you how to make a holiday star using LEDs. You can use them as table decorations, for your desk or around the house.
step 1: stuff you will need
bill of materials:
battery pack (any type of battery will do, preferably 4.8V or less)
8 bright white LEDs (you can use more or less depending on the type of star you'd like to make)
8 resistors, 100 ohms or less to calculate your resistor values you can use this online calculator)
MOSFET (able to handle 1W)
ATTiny 45 or other microcontroller
sand paper
additional wire
tools:
soldering station
programmer
wire stripper
solder
tape
Image Notes
1. ATTiny
2. sand paper
3. resistors
4. LEDs
5. transistor
6. battery pack
7. connectors
step 2: programming your microcontroller
The microcontroller will determine how the LEDs flash. You can upload the attached C file or create your own code.
- install WinAVR
- connect your programmer will have to generate a driver for the USB programmer*
- compile the code
- upload the code using AVR dude
*how to create the driver for your USB programmer:
- download and install WinAVR.
- then attach the AVR ISP II when the hardware wizard pops up wait
- go into the utils\libusb\bin folder, run the inf-wizard.exe and create a driver
- then you have to copy the whole bin folder from libusb into the bin folder under avr\bin
- finally check that the makefile has the stk500v2 listed as programmer
step 3: sand the LEDs
Use the sandpaper on the LED caps to increase their diffusion.
step 4: solder your circuit
Follow the attached diagram to solder your circuit. Using tape to hold down your parts while you solder them can be helpful, especially in the beginning until the star
shape is fixed.
step 5: enjoy your star!
Enjoy the stay you've made. You can stand it on top of the battery pack using the latter as a base. You can start to imagine other star shapes to make.....
You can view a video of the LED star blinking here!
Wooden
Christmas tree
with colourchanging lights
by Dr Rob
LED Dove
Ornament by
Syuzi
Twinkle
Christmas Tree
3D Greeting
Card by sun
Real Snowglobe
Holiday Card by
evey5268
Make Your Own
Holiday Window
Display by
TheHobbyGuy
Custom size
Christmas Star
(for outdoors)
by gonzolo
Listen to a led
tea light by alois
LED lavalamp
by Castle Seige
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Comments
2 comments
Add Comment
fwjs28 says:
Dec 14, 2008. 12:04 PM REPLY
sweet....u rlly have a thing for LED 'ibles...
sotsirh194 says:
Do you have a code for it?
Dec 12, 2008. 12:27 PM REPLY
Low Cost Water Flow Sensor and Ambient Display
by staceyk on December 8, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Low Cost Water Flow Sensor and Ambient Display . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Gather Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 2: Build the Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Test the Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 4: Calibrate your Sensor to Detect Vibrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 5: Create an Ambient Display . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 6: Use Sensor Data to Drive the Display . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 7: Mount the Sensor and Display onto a Water Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 8: Future Suggestions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
9
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
9
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
http://www.instructables.com/id/Low_Cost_Water_Flow_Sensor_and_Ambient_Display/
intro: Low Cost Water Flow Sensor and Ambient Display
Water is a precious resource. Millions of people do not have access to clean drinking water, and as many as 4000 children die from water contaminated illnesses every
day. Yet, we continue to be wasteful with our resources. The overarching goal of this project is to motivate more sustainable water use behavior and raise awareness
about global water issues.
This is an instructible on how to crudely detect water flow in a pipe and drive an ambient display. I am using a piezo transducer, some LED's and an arduino. The device
is a rough prototype of what will eventually become a persuasive technology that motivates sustainable behavior and raises awareness about water use.
This is a project by Stacey Kuznetsov and Eric Paulos at the Living Environments Lab, at Carnegie Mellon University Human Computer Interaction Institute.
Produced by
Stacey Kuznetsov
[email protected]
http://staceyk.org
Eric Paulos
[email protected]
http://www.paulos.net/
Living Environments Lab
http://www.living-environments.net
The video below illustrates a previous version of this project, where a microphone is used instead of a piezo element to detect water flow. You will achieve better
performance when using a piezo transducer, so this instructible details the piezo approach.
Video
Special thanks to Briam Lim, Bryan Pendleton, Chris Harrison and Stuart Anderson for help with ideas and design of this project!
step 1: Gather Materials
You will need:
- Breadboard
- Microcontroller (I used an Arduino)
- Mastic
- Piezo Transducer (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062402)
- A few LED's (I used 2 yellow, 2 red, 2 green)
- Candle holder or similar-sized container
- Wire
- 1 Mohm (or other large value) resistor
- 4.7K Resistors (3)
- 1K Resistors (1)
- Low-value Resistors (for the LED's)
- Clipping Wires
- Jumper Wires
- Mastic
- op amp (LM613)
Image Notes
1. Arduino board
2. LED's
3. Piezo Transducer
4. Wires
5. Resistors 4.7K (3) 1 Mohm (1) 1K (1)
6. Candle
7. op amp
8. breadboard
9. mastic
step 2: Build the Circuit
The circuit consists of an amplifier to increase the signal from the piezo and a voltage divider to lift the base voltage.
There is a high-value resistor between the two inputs form the piezo, which acts as a pull-down resistor for the signal.
Image Notes
1. 5V DC
2. Amplifier
3. Voltage Divider
4. piezo in
5. piezo in
6. ground
7. signal out
Image Notes
1. piezo in
2. piezo in
3. ground
4. V+
5. V6. 4.7K
7. 4.7K
8. ground
9. ground
10. 1K Resistor
11. 1 Mohm Resistor
12. 5V DC
13. 5V DC
14. 4.7K
15. Op AMP (LML613)
16. signal out
step 3: Test the Circuit
Attach the piezo to the circuit, and hook up the arduino.
The voltage divider sets the base voltage at 2.5V, so the base readings for the signal should be around 512 on the Arduino analog pin (half way between 0 and 1023).
Mine fluctuates +/-30 around 520. You may see some fluctuation around this number.
Image Notes
1. Analog pin connects to the Signal out in the Amp
2. Arduino 5V goes to 5V on the breadboard
3. Arduino ground goes to ground
4. Piezo hooked up to piezo in, the leads are interchangeable
step 4: Calibrate your Sensor to Detect Vibrations
When the tap is turned on, the vibrations of the pipe will cause the piezo to generate a fluctuating current. Since the base reading tapers off around 520, you can compute
an amplitude around this number to detect vibrations. My threshhold is set at 130, but you may increase or decrease this depending on the types of vibration you want to
sense and sensitivity of your particular piezo piece.
To test the signal, use mastic to attach piezo to a flat surface. Try tapping or scratching on the surface at different locations and different intensities see what type of
readings you get on the Arduino.
To reduce noise, I recommend computing a moving average of the input. This is a crude way of determining wave amplitude that avoids false positives due to random
static current. More advanced methods such as FFT may also be used.
// Sample Code
int sensor = 2; // Analog in
int val =0; // Current reading for analog pin
int avg; // Running average of the wave amplitude
int MIDPOINT = 520; // Base reading
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
avg = MIDPOINT; // set average at midpoint
}
void loop() {
val = analogRead(sensor);
// Compute wave amplittue
if (val > MIDPOINT) {
val = val - MIDPOINT;
} else {
val = MIDPOINT - val;
}
// compute running average fr the amplitute
avg = (avg * 0.5) + (val * 0.5);
if (avg > 130) {
// vibration detected!
Serial.println("TAP");
delay(100); // delay to ensure Serial port is not overloaded
}
}
step 5: Create an Ambient Display
If your sensor is working properly, you can add an ambient display to show the information.
My LED's are paired such that each color is illuminated by two LED's. To do this, attach the 'in' (short) lead of each color together, and use a low-value resistor before
connecting to the Arduino. Connect the ground (longer) lead of all LED's and attach to ground on the Arduino.
Once the LED's are connected, use the candle-holder to house the display. Since the candle holder is made of aluminum, you may want to put an insulator such as a
piece of plastic, on the bottom of the container before inserting the LED's to prevent the circuit from shorting out.
Image Notes
1. Green In
2. Yellow in
3. Red in
4. Ground
Image Notes
1. ground
2. Yellow in
3. Green in
4. Red in
Image Notes
1. hole for wiring
step 6: Use Sensor Data to Drive the Display
It takes me about 10 seconds to wash my hands. Thus, I have programmed the display to show a green light for the first 10 seconds after the tap is turned on. After 10
seconds, the yellow LED"s turn on. The display turns red if water remains on after 20 seconds, and begins flashing the red light if the tap remains running for 25 seconds
or more.
Use can your imagination to create alternative displays!
Image Notes
1. pins that drive the display
2. ground for the LED's
step 7: Mount the Sensor and Display onto a Water Pipe
Use mastic or clay to attach the piezo to the tap, and another layer of mastic to secure the display on top.
You may have to readjust your threshold amplitude or 'MIDPOINT' from step 4. The signal may also be slightly affected by the temperature of the pipe.
Image Notes
1. base layer of mastic
Image Notes
1. piezo sensor mounted onto pipe with mastic
Image Notes
1. LED display on top of the sensor
step 8: Future Suggestions
You may choose to drive the Arduino off a battery. An upcoming tutorial will show you how to run this display by drawing power directly from the running water itself, or by
harnessing surrounding ambient light energy!
Hexabot: Build
a heavy duty
six-legged
robot! by
rpantaleo
Ard-e: The robot
with an Arduino
as a brain by
imadami
Arduino gift
guide
(slideshow) by pt
Ultrasonic
Batgoggles by
suneth
Garduino:
Gardening +
Arduino by
liseman
Walking on
water: start
building a
StriderBot by
masynmachien
Puppeteer
Motion-Capture
Costume by
Plusea
Fabric Bend
Sensor by
Plusea
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Comments
PyroMonger says:
Dec 16, 2008. 6:58 AM REPLY
you should add a buzzer to the circuit that buzzes once wen the light turns yellow and then has a continuous buzz if the light turns red to warn people to turn
it off
omkar_hummer says:
Dec 15, 2008. 11:45 PM REPLY
you wasted much water while testing your device!!
watchurmouthyoungman says:
good idea but its not that good looking... :(
make it where like the the color of the water actually changes! thats always cool..
where the LEDs like point toward the water and cooooolll stuff.
Dec 14, 2008. 11:09 PM REPLY
disgruntldtoad says:
Dec 15, 2008. 4:59 PM REPLY
That would actually be a pretty good idea, and probably rather easy to implement. How ever, I would think it would take some bright LED's to illuminate
the water in the daytime, so maybe buying a much brighter multi color LED and just working with it instead of a few of them.
Emperor Dane says:
Dec 14, 2008. 7:36 PM REPLY
wait, is this the same stacyk from News SH?
awesome instructable., really well done. as an alternative to an electret mic, you could also use a headphone speaker as a microphone.
i'm so going to put one of these in my apartment. and integrate usage over the course of the day, VU meter style
Dane
dklabs.co.nr
staceyk says:
Dec 14, 2008. 8:06 PM REPLY
HOW do you know News??
Emperor Dane says:
Dec 14, 2008. 8:42 PM REPLY
Actually, a DJ at RPI GZ informed me of it like 3 years ago and i have a rather good memory of names and numbers. Kinda odd, but then again im an
EE.
Regardless, awesome instructable!
-Dane
http://electronics.union.rpi.edu/
staceyk says:
Dec 14, 2008. 9:01 PM REPLY
oh wow, small world :) Thanks for your feedback!
teamcoltra says:
Dec 14, 2008. 2:09 PM REPLY
I understand the need to conserve water, although I live RIGHT ON TOP of an aquifer... Because when other states are in drout we ship our water to them
(typically CA)... I wish this would focus more on our OWN need for water rather than people in another country.
People are soo worried about people in other countries but in all honesty we are in some serious crises here that we need to take care of first.
That being said:
Very good Instructable, people keep putting the message before the well written "how to" article this is supposed to be.
Indigno says:
Dec 14, 2008. 10:36 AM REPLY
Since when do we ship our excess water to third world countries? It's not like the countries that don't have clean drinking water are down stream from us.
The only thing that is saved by this device is one's own personal water bill.
rerat says:
Dec 14, 2008. 10:03 AM REPLY
preachy. I was interested in this project until I started the video.
airwelldriller says:
Dec 13, 2008. 8:05 PM REPLY
Some air wells built by Neolithic men are still producing. (Huge bang per buck!) In the last three years I have found references to air wells in France,
England, Lithuania, Afghanistan, Persia, China, and the South Pacific. Air wells work by taking advantage of the fact that different materials and structures
heat at different rates during the day and cool at different rates during the night. The Russell air well - patented in the 1920's - produces 25,000 gallons a
year in a 30' x 30' concrete structure. The air well discussed in "Naturalist on the Thames" produced about 219,000 gallons per year, but the writer did not
tell its dimensions. Evidence of working air wells is visible to all of us; dew spots on our windshields, frost on our roofs, the need to de-water utility tunnels
and well pits that have no detectable leak, the musty smell in "dry" basements. The simplest air well is simply the 12' wide by 4' high pile of rocks that the
Afghans use to water a newly planted tree. (What does a newly planted tree in the desert require? A couple of gallons a day?) Air wells are called air wells,
dew ponds, ship ponds, mist ponds, cloud ponds, fog ponds, rock piles, gravel mulch... and in my opinion a cistern is probably an airwell, too. My study
suggests that if the money put into 450 miles of Interstate highway were put into low-tech airwells (insert lots of if's, but's, and maybe's) it might produce 72%
of Denver's current annual water requirements. Would you like to see an Instructable on a desktop (high-tech) model that I built that produced about a
teaspoon of water between 0001 hours and 0500 hours... but the had water evaporated by 1000 hours?
stcorbett says:
Dec 12, 2008. 6:50 AM REPLY
I dig the device, and I dig helping people around the world get access to better water. I'm not sure about the relationship between us (in the developed world)
being less wasteful with water, and them (in the developing world) getting better access to water.
One example: as people in the developing world use more and more water (become more wasteful) it becomes cheaper and cheaper to get access to one
unit of said water (assuming simple supply and demand.) The lower the price of water per unit, the more people can get access to more of it. Someone who
currently has access to only the poorest quality water in their region, as water gets cheaper per unit, would theoretically improve their access to higher
quality water.
What do ya think?
Whatnot says:
Dec 12, 2008. 10:00 AM REPLY
There is no such simple relationship of supply and demand because many of these third-world places just are very arid and need to dig very deep wells
to get access to a small amount of water, there's just limits, to get more water you'd have to build a desalination plant near the coast of some
cleaning/extraction system near a river and lay hundred of miles of pipes, which is rather hard to finance and keep up since the roads are also in a sorry
state and there is corruption and instability andsoforth that mess with such projects.
In short there's no smooth linear graph between supply and demand and costs, it is low key then jumps to a very large scale thing and doesn't smoothly
scale up I expect.
Mind you the ancient romans already build extensive aquaducts of thousands of miles all over their empire and they had to do stuff the hard way too and
still managed, plus many of those are still in working order after hundreds of years, you'd think we could do better nowadays.
Whatnot says:
Dec 12, 2008. 10:12 AM REPLY
Oh and incidentally, water is defined by the UN and various treaties as a human right I think and also currently they do not pay for water in those 3rd
world places simply because they don't have money and need water to survive every day.
I myself think water should be taken care of by basic taxes, that's what you pay tax for, the minimal stuff like roads and water, but unfortunately they
not only ask you to pay for water separately but more and more also for the roads, leaving you to wonder what you pay taxes for then eh? Just to kill
people I guess, and for the 10+ mansions of senators and premiers and presidents such leaders and their cronies :/ (excuse the last bit, the rant, and
don't take that too much as a discussion starter, I'm just venting.)
Whatnot says:
Dec 12, 2008. 9:51 AM REPLY
Only time you need to 'save' water is when you are stranded in the desert, or on a deserted island, the rest is all BS, although perhaps in vegas/nevada it
can also be a good thing, but I guess I covered that already when I said 'stranded in the desert' :]
That's all not influencing the quality of the electronic project in itself though, don't get me wrong, very interesting.
ax89 says:
Dec 11, 2008. 9:24 PM REPLY
Cool! I think, for esthetic purposes, a potential final product would have a single, unobtrusive multi-colour led.
I would like to have a device to reduce wasted hot water in the shower. It takes a little while (depending on how old your building is or other things) to get hot
water from your shower. I would like something that would indicate when the shower water is hot, so you can step into it. Then have a timer thing that would
start flashing the led after a certain amount of time. I don't know all these arduino things, can you do an instructable on that?
ax89 says:
Dec 11, 2008. 9:25 PM REPLY
PS: added as a fave
Dystonia says:
Dec 11, 2008. 3:03 PM REPLY
need circuit with led's in place as well and all parts
what you did was good --but for me just not enough info for me to assemble not enough plain talk
and pictures - I have disability which complicates things
comodore says:
Dec 10, 2008. 5:28 AM REPLY
Good job! I like this project! I love electronic and I am all for being green so this is a grate way to combine those two thing.
Nice job!
rate:*****
+ I added it to my Mythbusters group
amaze1 says:
Dec 9, 2008. 5:28 PM REPLY
nice way to detect water flow. I remember a similar circuit in an electronics magazine to activate recirculating hot water pump only when needed (and save
power and heating).
I guess it works even with sensor attached on the pipe UNDER basin (with different HW&SW settings), so you can save original tap appareance. Ambient
light could be placed near.
fwjs28 says:
cool...way to cool....
Dec 9, 2008. 1:33 PM REPLY
Mac OS Foot Switch from a Guitar Amp Pedal.
by aymans on August 27, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Mac OS Foot Switch from a Guitar Amp Pedal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Supplies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Solder the Jack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 3: Wire the jack to the breadboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 4: Attach the Jack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 5: Attach two probe wires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 6: Attach the breadboard to the Arduino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 7: Plug in the Arduino to the Mac's USB port . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
step 8: Program the Arduino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 9: Program the Mac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
step 10: Remote the Mac via Applescript . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
step 11: Get Running! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
step 12: Voila–a video demo! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
http://www.instructables.com/id/Mac_OS_Foot_Switch_from_a_Guitar_Amp_Pedal/
intro: Mac OS Foot Switch from a Guitar Amp Pedal.
Need a foot pedal for your Mac? Got a two switch guitar pedal and and arduino board lying around? A couple of wires, a three prong 1/4" jack and you're all set. I had to
do some audio transcription and used my pedal to play/pause and skip back the video.
This tutorial illustrates making a foot pedal for a Macintosh computer using an Arduino and a 2 switch guitar amp pedal.
You'll have to be a little familiar with soldering and writing simple code.
If you need a guitar amp pedal switch, you can buy one or make one with this other instructable or with this one.
Image Notes
1. 1) Guitar Pedal
2. 2) Arduino
3. 3, 5, 6) Electronic stuff
4. 4) 1/4" stereo jack
step 1: Supplies.
1) Guitar Pedal (I'm using a two switch pedal)
2) Arduino (I'm using a Diecimila)
3) Breadboard (or prototype board if you like)
4) Three Conductor 1/4" Stereo Phone Jack (got one at RadioShack)
5) 2 1k ohm resisters
6) Wire (you know whatever you have lying around)
7) Soldering Iron (and Solder will help too)
Image Notes
1. 1) Guitar Pedal
2. 2) Arduino
3. 3, 5, 6) Electronic stuff
4. 4) 1/4" stereo jack
Image Notes
1. Ignore me!
step 2: Solder the Jack
The jack (and corresponding plug) has three connection points: Ring, Tip, Sleeve. You need to solder a wire onto each of the connectors. Make the wires different colors
just to stay sane.
The Sleeve (attached to the black wire in my photo) is the common line running to each of the switches on the pedal. If we give it (the black wire) a voltage, switch #1 will
turn on/off the Tip wire (green in my photo). Likewise, switch #2 turns the Ring on and off (yellow in my photo).
If you get confused (I kinda did) just solder a different color wire onto each lead on the jack. You can use a volt meter to test for continuity (or wire it up to the breadboard
with an LED on it) to figure it out. I kinda looked at each lead and figured out what part of the plug it actually makes contact with.
Image Notes
1. Sleeve
2. Ring
3. Tip
Image Notes
1. Tip
2. Ring
3. Sleeve
Image Notes
1. Green Wire = Tip
2. Black Wire = Sleeve
3. Yellow Wire = Ring
step 3: Wire the jack to the breadboard
This step is the messy one. Here we connect the jack to the bread board.
Basically, we are going to take power from the arduino and run it to the foot switch (via the black wire on my jack - i know i know i should have used a red wire). Then
each wire off the jack we hook to a 1k ohm resistor. And from the back of each resistor, back to ground.
Then we need two generous wires to lead off the board from the front of each resistor (next to where the jack leads back in. These two wires we will use to test for
HIGH/LOW on the Arduino.
Image Notes
1. Start with a breadboard.
Image Notes
1. Add a red and black wire to the power lines on the breadboard.
2. All of these will be ground.
3. All of these will be 5V power.
Image Notes
1. Add a black wire to make all of these pins be Ground.
Image Notes
1. Add two 1k Ohm resistors. They should connect at the GND line but have
different start leads.
2. All the same row.
3. Different rows.
step 4: Attach the Jack.
Attach the Jack so the Sleeve line connects to the RED 5v.
The Ring and the Tip should connect to each of the heads of the resistors.
Look at the little boxes on the second photo for detail.
Image Notes
1. Attach the jack.
Image Notes
1. Sleeve line from Jack.
2. Tip line from Jack.
3. Ring line from Jack.
4. Green wire comes in (left) from the switch and a green prob wire comes out (to
the right) from the same row.
5. Yellow wire comes in (left) from the switch and a Yellow prob wire comes out (to
the right) from the same row.
step 5: Attach two probe wires.
We need 2 wires to run from the top (not the side connected to the ground, the other) of each resistor to our arduino.
Look at the long boxes on the photo for details.
Image Notes
1. Sleeve line from Jack.
2. Tip line from Jack.
3. Ring line from Jack.
4. Green wire comes in (left) from the switch and a green prob wire comes out (to the right) from the same row.
5. Yellow wire comes in (left) from the switch and a Yellow prob wire comes out (to the right) from the same row.
step 6: Attach the breadboard to the Arduino
Now we plug four wires from the breadboard to our Arduino.
Plug the RED power wire into the 5V Power line on the Arduino.
Plug the BLACK ground wire into the GND line on the Arduino.
Plug the #1 switch (GREEN line) into the #9 pin on the Arduino.
Plug the #2 switch (YELLOW line) into the #8 pin on the Arduino.
(We'll test pins 8 & 9 for voltage on the Arduino)
Image Notes
1. Red goes to 5V
2. Black goes to Gnd (Ground)
3. Yellow in Pin 8.
4. Green in pin 9.
5. Probe wires.
step 7: Plug in the Arduino to the Mac's USB port
Plug your Arduino/Breadboard/Jack/Switch combo thingie into your USB port.
Image Notes
1. Plug me in!
step 8: Program the Arduino
So here, we wanna code up the arduino. You can use whatever pins you like really. Basically, we want to write to the serial port whenever a pin changes. We write a 1 for
switch #2 and a "2" for switch #2. Really, you can't chord with this setup (but the code could be changed to allow for that).
Um, use the FootSwitch.pde file to get the code...not the jpg. :)
File Downloads
FootSwitch.pde (759 bytes)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'FootSwitch.pde']
step 9: Program the Mac
So, by now we have a foot switch talking to our Arduino. The Arduino writes a 1 or a 2 to the serial device when we click the switches. We need something on the Mac to
read it. Making the Arduino pretend to be a keyboard is kinda hard. So, instead we are gonna write a little C program to be our controller for the Mac.
We'll start by taking Tod E. Kurt's existing arduino-serial program that reads the Arduino serial port. I've made a few small modifications to automatically do stuff when it
sees a 1 or a 2. The attached file should work well. You can read the comments if you wanna see whats going on, but its not for the faint of heart.
You can download the source (the arduino-serial-footswitch.c file) or the compiled app (third file: arduino-serial-footswitch).
Download it and put it in a new folder.
If you wanna compile it, I'll assume you know how to:
1) Open an iTerm and CD into that directory
2) Compile it by typing: gcc -o arduino-serial-footswitch arduino-serial-footswitch.c
File Downloads
arduino-serial-footswitch.c (7 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'arduino-serial-footswitch.c']
arduino-serial-footswitch (16 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'arduino-serial-footswitch']
step 10: Remote the Mac via Applescript
So we need to write two AppleScripts. These will open the app we want and type they keyboard (shortcut) we want.
Attached is my template for doing so. You can almost read AppleScript. So just take a look at the attached file.
There are three types of key events you can make from AppleScript: "'key down'", "'key code'", and '"keystroke'". Your mileage may vary, so try "'keystroke'" first...if that
doesn't work try the other events, one at a time.
Open up the Script Editor application (its there on your mac somewhere) and try it out. I'm gonna make you type this part in by hand. Sorry folks. :)
Save As... each AppleScript as a type "Application". Put them next to our complied C code/app from the last step. Name each one 1.app and 2.app - one for each switch.
Image Notes
1. Say APPLICATION
2. name the two scripts '1' and '2'
Image Notes
1. Can be the name of any application.
2. Dont change this. It says 'make your mac to this'.
3. Plenty of ways to type a key stroke.
4. Click me to test your script.
step 11: Get Running!
Whew. Ok, so we have a Foot Switch, which is wired into a breadboard, which is attached to an Arduino, which is plugged USB into a Mac, which is running a C program
that listens to the footswitch and execs applescripts. Yowza!
ok. you should have a folder that looks like this:
.
|-- 1.app
|-- 2.app
|-- arduino-serial-footswitch
`-- arduino-serial-footswitch.c
Open up your terminal app. CD into the directory you made. You can start your little script like:
./arduino-serial-footswitch -p `ls /dev/tty.usbserial*` -b 9600 -R
this runs our script by looking for our Arduino board...if you have more than one plugged in, replace all of `ls /dev/tty.usbserial*` with the path to the device (if you do this
dont use the quotes!).
It will appear to do nothing, but your pedal is now live. If your buttons are backwards, you can reverse the wires running to pins 8 & 9. :)
Happy Stomping!
step 12: Voila–a video demo!
Video
Here's a demo of the footswitch in action! I mention there's a 500ms latency (which is the AppleScript lag). There's a second latency in invoking the script itself, so you
will see a total lag of ~60 seconds.
Guitar amp
channel
switching pedal
by dentsinger
Lo-fi Arduino
Guitar Pedal by
kylemcdonald
Guitar-Mounted
F/X for $5! by
gmoon
Digital
Thermostatic
Beer
Refreshment
Regulator by
silverHalo
Create Your
Own Guitar
Effects Pedal by
themakeclass
Amp footswitch
by
DIY Guitar Pedal somerockenguy
Board (Effects
Pedal Briefcase)
by SyllogismRXS
Guitars (guide)
by noahw
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Comments
8 comments
Add Comment
leahbuechley says:
Nov 16, 2008. 7:39 AM REPLY
nifty! would love to see a video of you using the pedal at the end :)
aymans says:
Dec 11, 2008. 11:21 PM REPLY
Glad you like it! I added a little demo video as step 12.
MisterHay says:
Aug 30, 2008. 5:27 PM REPLY
You could also accomplish this by wiring the foot switch to the controller of a USB keyboard. I've built one for controlling PowerPoint shows where the right
switch connects to the pins for PgDn and the left to PgUp.
Yours is more impressive (and reconfigurable) though.
todbot says:
Aug 31, 2008. 1:53 PM REPLY
I built a synth controller using this technique. Works great for switch-type events, especially if you can make it work for keys that you don't normally use
in your sequencer. I did it by taking apart an old USB keyboard and hooking up alternative buttons to the switch points, basically like what's described
here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Hacking-a-USB-Keyboard/
The cool thing about aymans hack is that he could pretty easily add some analog foot pedals to the mix, since Arduino has 6 analog inputs.
aymans says:
Sep 2, 2008. 4:28 PM REPLY
Totally! I want to hook up a Cry Baby Wah and have it rotate my apps. :)
aymans says:
Aug 31, 2008. 10:46 AM REPLY
Oh cool - it wasnt obvious how to wire my Arduino to be a USB HID device...so I went this route. Do you have an instructable on how you made your
switch?
MisterHay says:
Sep 1, 2008. 2:47 PM REPLY
Some day I'll get around to actually posting Instructables myself, but the link that todbot posted is pretty similar to the device that I made.
todbot says:
So awesome!
Aug 30, 2008. 2:17 PM REPLY
Magic Tablet
by Natalie Freed on November 9, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Magic Tablet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Disassemble tablet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 2: Disassemble Magic Slate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Solder connections (optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Add Wacom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 5: Reassemble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 6: Set up software . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 7: Make Palette from the rest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 8: Improve! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
9
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
9
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
http://www.instructables.com/id/Magic_Tablet/
intro: Magic Tablet
Taking notes on my computer makes storing and searching info much easier, but I miss the tactile feel of handwriting. I bought a small Wacom tablet to see if this would
help. I found out it takes a disappointingly long time to replicate the same control you have when writing on a piece of paper. Part of the reason seems to be that you
can't see the marks your pen makes on the surface you're writing on.
I decided to put the innards of my Wacom in an erasable "magic slate" to fix that problem and make the overall experience more touchable and fun. I wired it so that
sliding the writing surface of the slate out clears both the slate's screen and the computer drawing program's screen.Then I converted the tablet's outer casing into a
watercolor palette.
Ingredients:
For the Magic Tablet
1 Wacom or other digital graphics tablet (eBay-ed or old is good, there's a chance of damaging it)
1 magic slate (this one for instance: http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Drawing-Slate-by-Schylling/dp/B000ICZ5IW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=toys-andgames&qid=1226218291&sr=1-1)
Conductive fabric, copper tape, or aluminum foil
Some wire, solder, and a soldering station
Glue, hot glue, scissors, possibly a utility knife (Wikipedia says this is the proper generic name for an x-acto :)
Bits of cardstock
For the "Digital Watercolor Set"
Outside casing for a Wacom "Bamboo Fun"
Watercolors in tubes
A hot glue gun
A plastic bottled water cap
Image Notes
1. Tada!
2. added bezel
Image Notes
1. Water dish!
2. This was once a Wacom tablet...
step 1: Disassemble tablet
Unscrew all screws in the back of the tablet. If you think you have them all but the tablet still won't come apart, check under stickers!
Very carefully pry the casing apart (using a flat screwdriver to gradually pry up the edges helps). If you're using the tablet I did (the Wacom "Bamboo Fun") you can pull
out the scroll touchpad from a little plastic slot but BE CAREFUL! I damaged the connections when pulling mine out and ended up breaking the touchpad. Carefully
remove the board and the insulating metallic sheet behind it.
I really ought to have more pictures for this step, but I disassembled mine a long time ago. It's pretty straightforward, but let me know if I can offer any assistance.
Image Notes
1. touchpad was here
2. a button
3. drawing area
4. The "magic slate" is about the right size!
step 2: Disassemble Magic Slate
Remove the backing from the Magic Slate by cutting or carefully tearing the glued-down bottom, left, and right edges. You should be able to remove the writing surface by
pulling it vertically off the erasing cardboard tab.
Interesting note here: when I took mine apart I noticed that the erasing cardboard tab that helps separate the wax sheet and the plastic on top was cut out from a different
children's toy or cartoon page. It's not visible unless you take it apart so it didn't matter if it matched the outside design. I thought this was a very cool use of recycling,
wherever these are assembled.
As an aside, I'd always wondered how those magic slates work. Basically the bottom layer is coated in dark wax. When you press down on the top plastic layer it sticks to
the wax, making it show through in that spot. When you separate the layers the image clears.
Image Notes
1. cardboard tab between wax sheet and plastic sheet of drawing surface.
Image Notes
1. recycled!
step 3: Solder connections (optional)
I really wanted to make this so that the screen would clear itself when you pulled out the drawing screen to erase it. I decided to repurpose one of the buttons on the
tablet (they can be mapped to key commands). I soldered wires to each side of one of the pushbutton switches and connected them to two conductive patches that only
make contact when the screen is pulled out all the way.
You can certainly skip this step, it does involve a little more risk to the tablet.
I made the conductive patches out of conductive fabric (lessemf.com) because I happened to have some around and because it seemed the most likely to make a flat,
smooth surface over which the two pieces could slide. Aluminum foil or copper tape would probably work well too.
First, cut out two small pieces of conductive fabric and solder a wire to each one. Move quickly, the fabric is relatively easy to solder to but it does burn through fast. Glue
each of these patches, solder side down, to the cardboard frame and the writing surface (see pictures for location).
Next, use pliers to pry a button out of its little socket. Solder the ends of these two pieces of wire to each side to create a switch.
The wire that goes to the conductive patch on the backing should just be long enough to reach the button on the tablet (red wire in photo). The one on the drawing
surface should be long enough to allow it to slide freely (black wire in photo).
Image Notes
1. the other side of the drawing surface
Image Notes
1. wire soldered to conductive copper fabric
Image Notes
1. fabric glued down, solder side down
Image Notes
1. Where the button used to be.
step 4: Add Wacom
Use just a little hot glue to affix the tablet to the backing, checking through the clear window that it will be aligned the way you want it (mine is upside down here, I ended
up having to flip the top panel). Don't forget the insulating metal sheet behind the tablet circuitboard.
Image Notes
1. cut hole out for usb connector
Image Notes
1. Tada!
2. added bezel
step 5: Reassemble
Plug it in and test that the switch works.
Unplug it.
Cut a small hole in the backing at the level of the USB connector.
Cover the tablet with a piece of cardstock and glue it down. This will protect it a bit, since the drawing surface will slide over it frequently.
Since my tablet was pretty small, the writable magic slate area was larger than the writable tablet area. You can increase the width of the frame (bezel) by adding strips of
paper to the opposite side of the clear plastic window.
Glue the backing back on the Magic Slate, enclosing the tablet inside.
Image Notes
1. protective cardstock coating
Image Notes
1. cut hole out for usb connector
Image Notes
1. Tada!
2. added bezel
step 6: Set up software
Install the drivers for your tablet. Go into the tablet preferences/settings pane. Set up the button that you connected to the sliding switch to activate a keystroke that will
clear the screen in your preferred drawing program. For instance, for a Mac OS X program called Seashore I used the keystroke command-a (for select all) delete, to
select the screen and clear it.
Plug the tablet in and test it again. You may have to mess with the switch a bit to make sure it is activated when you pull the drawing surface out.
step 7: Make Palette from the rest
Use the outer casing of the tablet for this once you've taken the tablet out. If you're using the Wacom Bamboo, there should be a round hole where the scroll touchpad
was. Use hot glue to attach a plastic bottle cap the right size to the back of the tablet case, so that it makes a little water cup.
Then, squeeze blobs of watercolor onto the surface of the case.
Image Notes
1. Water dish!
2. This was once a Wacom tablet...
step 8: Improve!
There are lots of things that could be improved...
I'd like to come up with a more robust switch mechanism.
I'd like to add more buttons that look like tools (select tool, color palette, etc.). They could be hooked up to an Arduino board and processed by a drawing application.
I'd like to write the aforementioned drawing application specifically for this interface (it looks like a drawing tablet and can read the additional buttons).
Image Notes
1. Tada!
2. added bezel
Hack mac
laptop to be a
mac tablet in 15
minutes or DIY
Cintiq by c4l3b
How to build a
Tagtool
Suitcase by
dasgnu
Photoshop
Realistic Paint
Clean a Wacom Technique by
$2 Mini graphics
Intuos mouse by DSheppard
tablet by biink
retroleum
Making a WebComic:
Scanning,
Cleaning, and
Publishing
Lineart by
technosapien
How to draw
abstract ink
illustrations in
Photoshop by
surfwizz
DIY Vinyl Wall
Art by britsteiner
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Comments
1 comments
Add Comment
dombeef says:
cool
Nov 26, 2008. 2:35 PM REPLY
Mapping Microbes
by jasonbobe on December 7, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Mapping Microbes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Collect a Specimen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Perform DNA Sequencing on Collected Specimen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Visualize: Map your microbes and compare with others . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
4
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
4
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
http://www.instructables.com/id/Mapping_Microbes/
intro: Mapping Microbes
Although you can't see them with the naked eye, microbes are everywhere. Your body and nearly every surface around you is covered in these tiny microscopic
organisms. I'm going to explain how you will soon be able to characterize the microbial communities that live among us -- on surfaces like door knobs, crosswalk buttons,
or the palms of your hands -- and compare your findings with those of others.
step 1: Collect a Specimen
(1) Moisten a Q-tip with solution (like water or a mild detergent)
(2) Swab your surface with the moistened Q-tip
(3) Place the swab in a sealed container, like a plastic bag
(4) Record information about your specimen collection, such as date, time, geolocation, and weather.
(5) Mail your specimen to a lab that specializes in sequencing, such as this one
Image Notes
1. This is a crosswalk signal in Davis Square (Sommerville, MA).
2. I'm collecting a specimen using a sterile Q-tip. I wonder what microbes are living on this button?
step 2: Perform DNA Sequencing on Collected Specimen
A DNA sequencing facility will extract the microbial DNA from your specimen and sequence specific regions of the genomes present in the sample. The region of the
genome that should be sequenced, depends in part on what organisms you're trying to identify. You might sequence one thing for animals (e.g. CO1) and another for
microbes (e.g. rRNA).
The ribosomal RNA (rRNA) genes are often examined by biologists for identification of microbes. They are ancient, highly conserved, and common across species.
Different microbes have different versions of rRNA genes. The specific version of a rRNA gene possessed by an organism can help scientists (and you!) tell apart one
microbe from another.
16S ribosomal RNA gene sequencing is particularly helpful in distinguishing one type of bacterium from another. Is it a cyanobacterium, proteobacterium, or a firmicute?
Depending on the number of different bacteria in your original sample, the sequencing results may include hundreds (or thousands!) of unique 16S rRNA sequences.
Each DNA sequence will be 200-300 base pairs long and can be used to characterize the bacteria that were present on the surface where you collected a specimen.
Having a bunch of 16S rRNA gene sequence data will help you to identify the microbes that were on the surface where you collected a specimen. But this analysis will
require some work involving bioinformatics. For example, you might compare your sequence data to the data available in public databases, to see if others have
characterized any microbial DNA with similarities to your data.
Why not share your data online and let others help you characterize it? Beyond crowd-sourcing the computational effort, there are numerous exciting possibilities once
people start sharing their data...
Image Notes
1. Photo credit Shaury at Flickr: http://flickr.com/photos/shaury/2653833040/
step 3: Visualize: Map your microbes and compare with others
Lets say on a cold December day you characterized the microbes living on a cross-walk button near your apartment in Harvard Square (Cambridge, Mass) and you
published your data online. The next spring, some curious person living across the Charles River in downtown Boston wonders whether the cross-walk button nearest her
apartment would yield different results. Do crosswalk buttons only a few miles apart share similar microbiomes or do they differ? Do microbial communities living on a
particular surface change like the weather over time?
Much like a weather map, a BioWeatherMap shows how conditions vary in different regions over time. Publishing your microbial data online will enable the possibility of
visualizing the temporal and geographic variation of microbial communities living on surfaces around the world.
DIYbio and the PGP are working to bring BioWeatherMaps to home near you soon. Stay tuned! Sign-up here here if you want to be contacted when more information is
available.
We are also grateful for the support of the George Church Lab at Harvard Medical School. The first mention of the term "bioweathermap" is from George in 2005 ( see
this PDF, p.24).
Image Notes
1. Even though this is a mapping showing _human_ population density for the state of MA. One day there might be maps showing the density of microbes or viruses!
5
minute DNA
Extraction in a
Shot Glass by
macowell
Gel-O-Shot
INSIDE A
Banana! by NK5
Make a Simple,
Lensless USB
Microscope for
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Make Skeeball-inspired Games Using Pizza Boxes, Party Favors, and a PC
by amonmillner on December 13, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Make Skeeball-inspired Games Using Pizza Boxes, Party Favors, and a PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Gather your supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 2: Construct the pizza box’s base
............................................................................................
3
step 3: Convert the pizza box to an inclined Skeeball alley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 4: Make room for the holes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 5: Connect your holes to your external keyboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 6: Control a computer program . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 7: Modify or make a new computer program to control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make_Skeeball_inspired_Games_Using_Pizza_Boxes_Pa/
intro: Make Skeeball-inspired Games Using Pizza Boxes, Party Favors, and a PC
These steps will help you make Skeeball-inspired games from post-party materials (to satisfy the morning-after crafter in you). We'll recycle some party favors such as
plastic cups, plastic bottles and pizza boxes to create something that gives you new ways to play and interact with your computer. The game that I use as an example in
this instructable constructs virtual pizzas on a PC based on which hole a player rolls a ball into. Each hole has a label listing a pizza topping. When a ball rolls through a
hole, the ingredient on its label is added to the on-screen pizza drawing.
The video clips below show the pizza box Skeeball controller in action.
Video
Video
step 1: Gather your supplies
The lists below draw from basic tools that I keep at home and supplies that I collected the morning after my housemates had a party.
You will need:
(Things you might intercept on the way to a trash can)
- 1 pizza box (grease is optional)
- 3 plastic cups (it is a good idea to wash them out first)
- 3 1-Liter plastic bottles
- 1 to 3 balls (I chose tennis balls, but a foil ball of similar size and weight would suffice)
- Extra sacrificial cardboard (the collection should amount to roughly twice as much as your pizza box offers)
(Things to which you might already have access)
- A marker
- A ruler (although rough estimates are fine for this project)
- 3 pushpins
- Tape
- A boxcutter (to be used carefully around your floor and body) or a pair of scissors
- 1 external keyboard (unless you're comfortable with hurling things at your main keyboard)
- 1 computer
- The ScratchScratch programming environment (optional, and free)
Image Notes
1. This is a large Domino's pizza box. If your box size is different, you can play with larger or smaller cups etc.
2. the tennis ball fits through these particular cups and bottles very well. It also is heavy enough to push a keyboard key.
step 2: Construct the pizza box’s base
As you build your base, you'll be using your supply of non-pizza-box cardboard. One or more of the images will correspond with each bullet point of this step:
*Start by selecting some cardboard to serve as the base.
(Feel free to tape pieces of cardboard together until you have a piece as wide as the pizza box and longer than the opened box.)
*Mark and cut the lines that represent what will become your pizza box ramp support structure. Fold them upright when cut.
*Lift the lid of your pizza box to about 45 degrees. Find a piece of cardboard that matches the width of your pizza box and is a little taller than the lid you're lifting.
Cut a hole in the bottom of that piece that will fit your keyboard. Remove notches from the top of it so that it can function as a slot in a tab you'll make in the next step.
Note: I tinkered with an initial prototype of this project until I arrived at a structure that satisfied me (just stable and reliable enough). I built the more-stable version I'm
describing by looking at the parts of the initial prototype. I did not work from exact measurements. I do not mention many measurements in this instructable as I hope that
the pictures will help you "eyeball" measure the materials you find. You'll notice that I try to refer to the size of most parts with respect to the things to which they connect.
Image Notes
1. I didn't have a cutting pad at my disposal, so I used other pieces of cardboard
to protect my floors from scrapes.
Image Notes
1. Each piece of cardboard doesn't have to be perfect. This one had some wear
and tear, but still did the job.
step 3: Convert the pizza box to an inclined Skeeball alley
Performing the actions shown in these pictures will give you a reasonably strong structure to withstand your ball rolling.
-Open the pizza box and turn it upside down so that the logo faces upward (not the grease).
-Cut a tab in the lower half of the pizza box that you can slide into a slot you cut in the baseboard in the last step.
-Mark and cut the necessary holes in the pizza box. A set of slots for the ramp support, the ramp outline, and holes into which you'll place the cups.
Image Notes
1. A few mistakes are par for the course. This is why I put my markings on the
non-showing side of the box.
step 4: Make room for the holes
In this step, you'll be removing the bottom of each cup. You'll also cut slots into cups so that they can rest on the notches in the holes.
Image Notes
1. For the highest hole.
2. For the lowest hole.
step 5: Connect your holes to your external keyboard
In this step, we'll direct balls falling through the holes to keys on the keyboard. You'll want to start by inserting your keyboard. Then, we use the 1-Liter plastcic bottles to
guide the tennis balls to a key and then launch them to the side.
We mate the bottom part of the bottles with the now-bottomless cups. To mate the bottles with the keyboard keys, a pushpin in the lid and some tape do the trick.
One way that I tested my connections between the holes and the keys was to type into a text editor. I used a very large font, rolled balls into cups and checked to find out
how often the ball would strike the intended key.
You could use the text editor as a way to keep a tally of your rolls, but the next step might be more fun for you.
Image Notes
1. Attaches to the tallest cup.
Image Notes
1. You should leave a small gap between the pinhead and the key.
Image Notes
1. You'll have room for some tape wads or other adhesive. Beware of the stickykey action if you pack this space too tightly.
step 6: Control a computer program
You can start by thinking about what you want each hole to represent. In traditional Skeeball, each hole is worth a certain number of points. People play to achieve a high
score. In an example I explain below, the objective is to make a pizza.
There are many computer programs that let you trigger events when a person presses a particular key on a keyboard. I used the Scratch programming environment. It is
available at http://scratch.mit.edu as a free download. (Part of my role on the Scratch design team is to make new ways for people to interface with Scratch in a more
physical way - extending the keyboard is one of many ways.)
You can download the pizza_overflow project on the Scratch website at: http://scratch.mit.edu/projects/millner/350143.
The page includes notes about the project and a link to download it's code. You can learn about how to get started using Scratch from support materials on the website if
you'd like to extend this example, modify it, or make your own.
To make the pizza_overflow project work with your pizza box Skeeball controller's keyboard, there are parts of the program that you might need to adjust. The program
contains three command blocks that allow you to select which key a particular part of the program will respond to. I set the default project to use the numbers 1,2, and 3
for each topping. In Step 5, you connected each hole of your pizza box Skeeball controller to a number (or letter) on your keyboard. Please adjust the Scratch command
in the image below to your keys. Do so for the sauce, cheese, and topping object.
Image Notes
1. Here is where you click to change which key makes the topping appear. You
can choose most letters and numbers.
2. You will need to select each object for which you'd like to set a new key
mapping. These are the three of interest.
step 7: Modify or make a new computer program to control
There are many elements of this project that you can tweak to your taste. Have fun trying out different games (the pizza box lent itself to pizza-related games, but the
cups also suggest beverage-based themes as well). Perhaps you will add more holes. Perhaps you'll create different programs (using Scratch or your application of
choice). Better yet, you'll create a new type of post-party games. Have fun!
Programming in
Scratch. by
Noah1194
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Comments
4 comments
Add Comment
mikeasaurus says:
Dec 15, 2008. 8:52 AM REPLY
Very clever, a great adaptation using everyday materials! I love it!
AnarchistAsian says:
Dec 14, 2008. 9:10 AM REPLY
ha ha, wow....
homba says:
Dec 14, 2008. 5:58 AM REPLY
I was looking at this thinking to myself "Yeah, real cheap once you buy a bunch of sensors" but you used the keyboard. Keep it simple! Very clever says my
cynical self!
andresmh says:
This totally rocks!
Dec 13, 2008. 6:52 PM REPLY
Materialstorming
by DriesDR on November 7, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Materialstorming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Theme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Create! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Example 1 : Physical Website . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Example 2 : Objects in the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
6
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
6
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
http://www.instructables.com/id/Materialstorming/
intro: Materialstorming
This instructable will illustrate how (scrap)material can be used as a very inspiring source for designing products from websites over software applications to services and
tangible 'hardware' products.
Basically this instructable will explain a method that I tend to use and like to participate in at the very start of a variety of projects related to human computer interaction.
The main idea originates from the creation of low fidelity prototypes by using cheap materials to simulate some kind of interactivity, which is covered very well in Bill
Buxton's book sketching user experiences.
step 1: Materials
The first thing you need is a material table or material repository, as is often used in creative sessions and in creative techniques. What the materials are is not all that
important - but the more diversity in colours, material properties, textures, hardness, etc the better.
Based on several sessions that I have been involved in, some very interesting materials are:
- Paper/Cardboard of different thicknesses and textures
- Universal glue
- Hot glue
- Magnets
- Clay (the Playdough type)
- Fabrics
- Felt
- Postits of different sizes, shapes and colours
- Preshaped boxes (of cardboard, wood and/or plastic)
- Plastic sheets
Excellent places to buy these things are art stores. Other very interesting places can be second hand stores or places where leftovers from production processes are sold
(eg. "stichting scrap" in Rotterdam : link)
Image Notes
1. Taken during the workshop on lowfi prototyping at NordiCHI 2008, Lund
2. Aluminium foil
3. plastic boxes
4. coloured clay
5. Lego
6. Plastic balls
7. Spunges
8. tape
9. Fabric
Image Notes
1. Clay
2. Foldable boxes (pyramids)
3. Velcro
4. Felt
5. EVA Sheets (foam-like)
6. Feathers
7. Crèpe paper
8. Translucent paper
9. Makers, pencils,...
10. Magazines
11. Coloured paper
12. Scissors
13. Wooden boxes
14. Postits
15. Stickers
16. Wasco
17. Plastic sheets
18. Glue
19. Stapeler
20. Rope
21. Textured cardboard
22. Rubber bands
23. Foldable boxes (cubes)
24. Foldable boxes (rectangles)
25. heavyweight paper
26. Ribbons
step 2: Theme
Besides the material, it's important to have a theme or subject which you will be materialstorming about. The real strength of materialstorming is that you can come to
concepts starting from a very conceptual or cloudy idea. Basically this theme would be a central term or concept, much like this is being done in 'regular' brainstorms.
Because materialstorming is all about working with tactile materials, just by creating objects and physical representations of an idea it becomes easier to talk about the
concept. Therefore, materialstorming is something that allowed me to talk about very conceptual ideas with everyday people. During my research, using materialstorming
facilitates the creation of a common design language amongst a group of people regardless of their experience or background.
step 3: Create!
Now the fun part can begin, the creation of tactile objects that illustrate several ideas around a certain theme.
To get the most out of materialstormning, it's a good thing to just pick up a material and to not let it go before you created something out of it. Take your time to examine
the shape, texture, feeling and look for combinations with other materials. To get familiar with the technique, it might help to first write some keywords on a sheet of paper
that are relevant to the topic first or creating several moodboards related to the choosen theme.
Another tip to create interesting objects is to pick the material you like the least or the one that you would never pick. Doing this, you force your thoughts to think about
something in a different way.
As a last tip, always remember you can rip things apart or think up alternative uses of a material. Often people "just" stick stuff together, which often leads to quite generic
ideas and prototypes. An example is shown the picture below, where a piece of wood has been ripped apart first, this lead to the idea of fire .
Image Notes
1. Ripped paper & broken pieces of wood were the main inspiration for this product idea
step 4: Example 1 : Physical Website
A first example of why materialstorming can elict new ideas is the physical website. The main idea was to create a website during a workshop on co-design techniques
(held at MobileHCI 2008). As we at that moment had access to a whole bunch of materials we decided to, instead of immediatly starting to make wireframes, use a short
materialstorming to come to the general concept of the site.
By exploring, touching and thinking about various materials we were able to not only think about the features of the website but also about the experience and look and
feel of it. Obviously this was the materialstorming technique being used by a team of 'professionals' where it can give very richt information about a concept in a short
amount of time.
step 5: Example 2 : Objects in the city
The objects in the pictures below illustrate several ideas that were created in a project regarding Near Field Communication technology in a city context.
Our team of researchers worked together with everyday people from the city of Antwerp to talk about this technology. Our main question was "how would you like to
communicate in the city?" Whe choose to run trough a very 'analogue' process before explaining them the eventual technology we had in mind.
During one of our sessions we used the materialstorming technique to get a better understanding of this theme, in the end the results of the materialstorm have been the
most inspiring for the team. Mostly becasue 'real-world' artifacts were created that each have their own stories and ideas behind them.
step 6: Conclusion
Using the instructable I tried to quickly give an overview of "materialstorming". I'm convinced that this method is being used by other people and research groups already
but I'm also sure that materialstorming is a technique with such a lot of potential and possible richness that it's interesting to think about the 'best practices' of the method.
Some of the things that make materialstorming a powerful method to use in a design process are:
- Materialstorming is a perfect way to include people that are not familiar with design and design processes in methods like participatory design. As people know that they
are just making mockups, we noticed that they tend to be more
- The method is closley linked to bodystormning and acting out. Once a tactile object has been made, it's perfect to be used in bodystormning or acting out techniques.
- Besides creating a common design language, it becomes easier to talk about the experience of a design by using various material characteristics.
- Based on the first prototypes, other evolutions can be made that could - depending on the context - be made interactive using arduino and/or other open source
hardware tools.
To conclude, I'd like to add a quote by Yoko Ono which truly captures the spirit of materialstorming and DIY in general;
"I admire most creative people and most creative efforts because I like the idea that they're doing something. Even if it's crap, I like the idea that they're doing something."
-- Yoko Ono
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Measure and map noise pollution with your mobile phone
by n.maisonneuve on November 5, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Measure and map noise pollution with your mobile phone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Equipment and software . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 2: How to use the mobile application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 3: Experience it in your street . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 4: Visualization of the results . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 5: Future research and conclusions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
6
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
7
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
http://www.instructables.com/id/Measure_and_map_noise_pollution_with_your_mobile_p/
intro: Measure and map noise pollution with your mobile phone
Nicolas Maisonneuve (Sony CSL Paris) and Matthias Stevens (Vrije Universiteit Brussel / Sony CSL Paris)
In this "Instructable" you will learn how you can use your mobile phone as a mobile station to measure your personal exposure to noise and thereby contribute to a
campaign to map noise pollution in your neighborhood and visualize the results using Google Earth.
NoiseTube project: a participatory sensing approach to monitoring noise pollution
Noise pollution is a major problem in urban environments. Noise pollution can have effects on human well-being and health (stress, insomnia as well as physical
problems). However, humans are not the only affected species. Excessive noise can also chase animals away or significantly alter their behavior (1), thereby challenging
ecosystems.
NoiseTube.net project is a new research project, started by the Sony Computer Science Lab in Paris, aimed at investigating how participatory sensing can be applied to
environmental issues and especially to monitor noise pollution. Participatory sensing advocates the use of widely deployed mobile devices (e.g. smart phones, PDAs) to
form distributed sensor networks that enable public and professional users to gather, analyze and share local knowledge (2). These sensors can range from the ones
built-in in current devices (microphones, camera, GPS, motion sensors) to more exotic ones that record environmental factors (e.g. CO2). The aim of the NoiseTube
project is to create an open platform to measure, annotate and localize noise pollution by actively involving individual citizens who use their mobile phones as noise
sensors.
Motivations to participate in the NoiseTube experience
1. Measure your personal sound exposure to be more aware of the problem of noise pollution in general
How much decibel am I exposed to during my day? By downloading our free application to your phone you will be able to measure your exposure in dB(A) in real-time
without the need of an expensive sound level meter. We think that the availability of personalized environmental information, together with the ability to compare it with
other's exposure, can do more to raise awareness about environmental issues than global information provided by environmental agencies.
2. Participate to the mapping of noise pollution in your neighborhood and more be involved in the management of urban commons
With your mobile phone you (or your group) can gather data, annotate it and thereby map local noise pollution, providing helpful information for local communities or
public institutions to support decision making on local issues without waiting for officials (environmental agencies, government funding for expensive measuring
campaigns) to turn their attention to your neighborhood.
3. Help scientists to better understand noise from your experience
If you accept, your data will be anonymized and accessible to scientists thanks to an public API. Unlike current noise pollution data coming from statics sensors installed
in specific places, your 'people-centric' data could have great value to scientists to better understand the noise pollution issue from a human point of view.
References
(1) Ed Yong, City songbirds are changing their tune. In ''NewScientist'', 2008, issue 2649
(2) J. Burke, D. Estrin, M. Hansen, A. Parker, N. Ramanathan, S. Reddy and M. B. Srivastava. Participatory Sensing. In ''ACM Sensys World Sensor Web Workshop''.
2006. ACM Press.
Image Notes
1. Visualisation on Google Earth of the real-time monitoring of the noise
exposure of anonymized participants (Paris).
Image Notes
1. a building site. red circles represent loud sound ( > 80 dB(A) )
2. peaceful district blue circles represents low decibels (around 40 dB(a))
3. A map of noise pollution on Google Earth done thanks to a mobile application
phone N95. The colors represent the decibels.
step 1: Equipment and software
*** Important notes ***
To achieve credible decibel measurements it is recommanded that only supported (calibrated) telephone models are used.
NoiseTube v2.0: Stand-alone smartphone application
This new version will be released the 15th of November. To use it, first create an account on our website (NoiseTube.net), then download and install the application on
your mobile phone. Subscribing to the website and using the software is entirely free.
To be able to run the application your phone needs to support the Java J2ME platform, including multimedia and localization extensions (1). Furthermore, either your
phone should have a build-in GPS-chipset or you must own an external GPS-receiver that can be connected to the phone through Bluetooth. Thoroughly tested - and
thus recommended - phone models are those that run on a recent version of the Symbian/S60 operating system (2), such as the Nokia N95 8GB.
In a few weeks a version for the iPhone will be released. It will be free and the functionality will be equivalent to the Java version. You can subscribe through
NoiseTube.net to stay informed.
With this software you can see your decibel exposure in real time, tag the source of the noise (e.g.: a buidling site, neighbours, cars, ...) to add a semantic layer on your
map and inform the community, and directly send the (geo-localized) data to your account on our server (3).
Instead of using the built-in microphone our application can also work with an external microphone. On figure 1 you see a custom-made external microphone we made for
Nokia N95 - or similar - phones (4).
NoiseTube v1.0: Smartphone application + digital sound recorder + desktop application
The first version of NoiseTube used a (GPS-equipped) mobile phone to run an application that tracks the user's whereabouts and allows him/her to input subjective and
qualitative information about the experienced sound environment (pleasant/annoying rating, sound source and description tags, time patterns, ...). In parallel, a portable
digital sound recorder (e.g.: M-Audio MicroTrack x series) is used to record the sound. To process all information a desktop application was developed. This tool extracts
decibel measurements from the recorded audio and combines this with the information collected on the mobile phone (GPS-track, user input) before submitting a report
to the NoiseTube server. Figure 2 shows an overview of the architecture of NoiseTube v1.0.
Notes
(1) To be exact the phone's Java platform should have support for J2ME profile CLDC v1.1 with MIDP v2.0 (or newer), JSR-179 (Location API) and JSR-135 (Mobile
Media API).
(2) S60 3rd Edition, Feature Pack 1 (or newer), a list of phone models can be found here.
(3) This requires that you have a GPRS/EDGE/3G data plan and could incur data transmission costs.
(4) A DIY guide to create such a microphone can be found here.
Image Notes
1. A Symbian/S60 compatible mobile phone with GPS and internet connection.
We recommand the Nokia N95 8GB (pictured) or a similar model.
2. An iPhone application will be released around December.
3. Optionally you can also create an external microphone.
4. A portable digital audio recorder. To be used with v1.0 of the NoiseTube
software. We recommend the M-Audio MicroTrack II (pictured).
Image Notes
1. Overview of the architecture of v1.0 of the NoiseTube platform (click the "i"
for a bigger version)
step 2: How to use the mobile application
Once you have created an account on our noisetube website, found the necessary equipment and installed v2.0 of our software, you can start monitoring your personal
sound exposure and thereby contribute to the NoiseTube project.
When you start the application you will first have to authenticate yourself with your account details. Once logged in, you should see the following screen divided in three
parts:
Loudness component: Measurement of the equivalent continuous sound level (Leq) in dB(A)
The decibel meter displays the equivalent continuous sound level (Leq) measured in dB(A) of the sound recorded at a given interval of time. At each cycle the application
records the environment sound (at 22500 Hz, 16bits) during an interval of time, then processes the signal to extract the Leq value. Two intervals are possible: 1) Slow
response (1 second, the default mode), this allows to measure the slow sound variation, useful for constant or background noise 2) Fast response/short Leq (125ms), for
time-varying sounds (e.g. short events). The fast response mode is currently still experimental so for now we advice to use the slow response mode.
Sound calibration and information credibility
To calibrate our application to get credible information on a Nokia N95, we used a sound level meter. We generated a pink noise as source of noise and compared the
decibels measured by a sound level meter and those measured by our application on the N95 phone at different levels of loudness (every 5 db, from 35 db to 100db). We
obtained the following curve with a precision around +/- 10 dB(A). After using the inverse of this function as a corrector we then obtained very good results (precision of
+/- 2 db). We also plan to the same calibration with the future iPhone version.
Localization component
For the outdoor localization the application uses either a built-in GPS-chipset or a GPS-receiver. Because most people spend most of their time indoors (where GPS does
not work) it is also possible to select your current location from a list of predefined locations. These locations can be personal "favorites" (e.g.: home or office) or public
places (e.g.: streets, subway stations).
Tagging component: Annotate sound measurements
Tagging adds a layer of meaning to the physical measurements to inform the community and to visualize the nature of the noise on maps afterwards. A closed list of tags
(i.e. predefined sources of noise) is presented. Defining your location (outdoor, home, office, subway) with the location component allows to contextualize the sources of
noise, so to make the tagging process more user friendly the application will automatically filter the proposed noise sources.
Image Notes
1. Result of the calibration: - Blue function = original response ( for given loudness
measured by a sound level meter (e.g. 60 db(A), the corresponding result with our
application (e.g. 67 dB(A)), - Red function = response with a very small deviation,
after applying a corrector.
Image Notes
1. Loudness component
2. Localization component
3. Tagging component
step 3: Experience it in your street
Once you have understood how to use the NoiseTube application, we invite you to test it on the street!
If you are using an external microphone, we advice you to place the microphone not too close to your face to avoid only measuring your own voice; attaching the
microphone close to your wrist is a good option.
We will add photos and videos here in the future. We also invite you to post your own through the comments.
step 4: Visualization of the results
Two visualizations are currently accessible.
Real-time Monitoring of people's exposure
Real-time monitoring is proposed to visualize the collective noise exposure of participants using Google Earth. You can see it by going to
http://noisetube.net/users/map.kml?current. A user is represented by a cylinder whose height and color are proportionate with loudness (decibels) of the user's sound
exposure.
Map of noise pollution in your city
You can also see the current map of your personal exposure by going to your account and selecting "My map" (or directly via:
http://noisetube.net/users/{username}/map.kml). To see the collective sound exposure map go the public map on http://noisetube.net/users/{username}/map.kml. Each
circle signifies a loudness measure (the color being proportionate with the decibel level). On top of this physical layer there is a semantic layer describing the meaning of
the measures i.e. the sources of the noise.
Image Notes
1. Visualisation on Google Earth of the real-time monitoring of the noise
exposure of anonymized participants (Paris).
Image Notes
1. a building site. red circles represent loud sound ( > 80 dB(A) )
2. peaceful district blue circles represents low decibels (around 40 dB(a))
3. A map of noise pollution on Google Earth done thanks to a mobile application
phone N95. The colors represent the decibels.
step 5: Future research and conclusions
True to the "beta" spirit of Web 2.0 we decided to open our platform to everyone, despite the early stage of development. In the near future updated versions of our tools
will offer improved and new features. Our research and development will continue along several tracks:
Noise measurement
Automatic sound calibration: place vs. sound level meter as sound reference
How to calibrate hundred of different mobile phones or other sound recorders without using an expensive sound level meter each time? We propose to investigate the
use of places in the city, stable enough in their acoustic variability, as reference points to (re)calibrate the sound level of mobile phones. Once we have measured the
sound level of a given place with a sound level meter, any participant with a mobile phone model whose properties are not yet known by our software can go to this place
(verified through GPS) and calibrate the microphone automatically.
Subjective annotation of noise
Noise (and sound in general) is a complex phenomenon due to the highly subjective way humans perceive it. Besides physical measures - such as loudness - many
subtle (contextual) factors influence and contribute to the discomfort (or pleasure) that is raised by particular sounds (1-3). To study these subjective factors we will add
new subjective components to the mobile application to use it as a "(social) annoyance meter" (the 1st figure shows a preview of what this could look like) and build
subjective maps of noise pollution.
Indoor localization
As noted before, the GPS system does (in general) not support indoor localization. Because most people spend a lot of their daily lives indoors this is an important
shortcoming which we have partially solved through manual localization (see step 2). However, there are technologies which can act as alternatives for GPS in indoor
scenario's. On of the more promising (and widely studied) approaches is GSM-based positioning, which is based on the identification antennas (cells) and triangulation
using received signal strengths. Such technologies could be especially helpful to investigate noise in underground public transport systems (such as Paris' M?tro
network), which are known to be very noisy environments. As far as we know no noise map of the M?tro in Paris has been published. We have already done some
experimentation with temporal markers and a post-reconstruction of locations by interpolation (see figure 2). However, by employing GSM-based positioning (identifying
antennas in different stations, to automatically detect the location of the user), we expect we will be able to produce more accurately localized measurements in this
special environment.
Social aspect: Community building
Projecting noise pollution data onto maps is the common feature. But the paradigm change proposed by participatory sensing goes much further than that. Recording
sound exposure from the people's activity allows us to gather a kind of data which is more people-centric and not only place-centric data which is collected by traditional
static sound level meters put in streets. From this observation we will look into more social-related features. For instance, creating personal noise profiles containing your
noise exposure in temporal and geographic dimensions and a list of your own tagged sources of noise, providing a way to compare people and find similar profiles in
order to support collective action.
Conclusion
In this "Instructable" we have presented preliminary research in which we apply the principles of participative sensing to the monitoring and mapping of urban noise
pollution. Our NoiseTube platform enables anyone to contribute to a distributed noise measurement campaign using simple, commodity devices (i.e. mobile phones). This
platform is still under heavy development and the near future will bring further improvements. However, we would like to invite anyone to join the NoiseTube community
and try out our software now.
If you have any questions, suggestions or other comments, please do not hesitate to contact us or react through the comments on this Instructable. Furthermore we
would like to stress that we are open to collaborate with both public or research organizations.
References
(1) J. Hellbr?k, H. Fastl and B. Keller. Does meaning of sound influence loudness judgements? In Proceedings of the 18th International Congress on Acoustics (ICA
2004). Pages 1097-1100.
(2) D. Menzel, H. Fastl, R. Graf and J. Hellbruck. Influence of vehicle color on loudness judgments. In Journal Of The Acoustical Society Of America, May 2008, 123(5),
pages 2477-2479.
(3) L. Yu and J. Kang. Effects of social, demographical and behavioral factors on the sound level evaluation in urban open spaces. In Journal of the Acoustical Society of
America, February 2008, 123(2), pages 772-783.
--Matthias Stevens is a Research Assistant of the Fund of Scienti c Research, Flanders
(Aspirant van het Fonds Wetenschappelijk Onderzoek - Vlaanderen).
The NoiseTube platform is being developed using Ruby on Rails and Java (J2ME). The source code will be distributed under an open source license in the future.
Image Notes
1. noise pollution of different lines in the subway in Paris. The height represent the
decibels, the color the subjective pleasantness.
Image Notes
1. In example of what a subjective input component could look like. This
was partially supported in v1.0 of the NoiseTube platform and will be
improved and merged back into v2.0 in the near future.
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Comments
3 comments
Add Comment
stasterisk says:
Nov 10, 2008. 5:00 AM REPLY
Awesome! Really cool to use instructables to support a research project like this.
I look forward to seeing more projects that use the built in GPS in mobile phones!
shooby says:
Nov 9, 2008. 5:13 PM REPLY
A VERY interesting project. This kind of mapping is pivotal in analyzing urban environments. I bet there isn't a large architecture firm that wouldn't be
interested in this.
ElJefeUno says:
An interesting concept, but it seems like it could severely affect your phone's battery life.
Nov 9, 2008. 11:48 AM REPLY
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Moebius strip earrings
by davisjan on October 25, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Moebius strip earrings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Materials and tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: First two rows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Third row . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Fourth row . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Fifth row . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 6: Rows 5 - 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 7: Joining the ends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 8: Adding a hanging loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 9: Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
8
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
http://www.instructables.com/id/Geek_chic_Moebius_strip_earrings/
intro: Moebius strip earrings
Make these earrings with size 11/0 cylinder beads in the shape of a Moebius strip, which has only one edge and one side.
First, work a 4-bead wide strip of herringbone weave. Twist, join the ends, add a hanging loop, and voila! A geeky, yet elegant earring.
step 1: Materials and tools
You will need:
size 11/0 cylinder beads (e.g., Delicas) in two colors for the edge and middle of the strip (I used matte dark gold and matte rose)
a pair of French hooks or kidney wires, to coordinate with beads
short beading needles
Nymo or other nylon monofilament thread, D weight, to coordinate with beads
a sharp cutting device (mine is airplane-safe)
step 2: First two rows
Thread a needle with about a yard of thread.
Start by stringing a waste bead in a contrasting color. Pass the needle through the bead twice so that a loop of thread wraps around the bead. Slide the bead down so
there is about a 6-inch tail.
String two edge beads, four middle beads, then two more edge beads. These 8 beads will form the first two rows.
Pass back through the second edge bead from the needle and pull all the beads snug against the waste bead.
step 3: Third row
Pick up one edge bead and one middle bead. Pass the needle through the first and fourth middle beads from the previous rows, skipping over the beads in between.
Pick up a middle bead and an edge bead. Pass back through the two edge beads strung earlier, skipping the waste bead.
Pull snug. The beads should make the shape of a loose M or W.
Skipping the first edge bead so that the thread loops around it, pass back up through the last two edge beads and pull snug. The beads should now form a definite M
shape.
You may now remove the waste bead by sliding it off the tail.
step 4: Fourth row
Pick up an edge bead and a middle bead. Pass the needle through the two middle beads at the points of the "M".
Pick up a middle bead and an edge bead. Pass back through the last two edge beads. Pull snug. Untwist the beads if necessary to make the colors line up.
Pass back up through the last edge bead and pull snug.
step 5: Fifth row
Turn the piece over. Work the fifth row the same as the fourth row. Make sure the beads line up in rows and pull snug.
step 6: Rows 5 - 25
Repeat row 5 until you have worked 25 rows of herringbone weave. Both the tail and the working thread should be on the same edge of the strip.
step 7: Joining the ends
Now for the fun: Joining the ends! You will basically work one last row of herringbone to connect the two ends. The twist is that you will work from right to left on the
beginning of the strip, and from left to right on the end of the strip.
Pass the needle through the two beads on the opposite edge of the beginning of the strip, in the herringbone pattern.
Snug the ends up next to each other.
Then pass through the two middle beads at the end of the strip, in the herringbone pattern.
Then pass through the remaining two beads on the beginning of strip, in the herringbone pattern.
Join the edge by passing the needle through several edge beads on the end of the strip.
Carefully pull tight, easing the thread along, and you have a beaded Moebius strip!
step 8: Adding a hanging loop
Push the folds in the Moebius strip around until the working thread is on top.
String four edge beads and pass back through the last two edge beads and pull tight to form a hanging loop. For extra strength, go around the loop again.
step 9: Finishing
Tie off loose ends to thread between pairs of beads. Work in loose threads by passing through several beads in the established thread pattern. Cut off excess thread
Attach a kidney wire or French hook to the hanging loop. Et voila! A moebius strip earring.
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Comments
3 comments
Add Comment
leahbuechley says:
Nov 15, 2008. 11:11 AM REPLY
beautiful!
KJS says:
Nov 7, 2008. 4:24 AM REPLY
This is very cool :) How did you get the idea for it?
I'm gonna make this when I have the time. Don't you have to be pretty concentrated the first couple of times, not to make it wrong?
davisjan says:
Nov 8, 2008. 9:48 AM REPLY
I wanted to try making a Moebius strip earring because I like math. Herringbone weave had become popular in the beadwork community a few years
before, and I thought of using it because it is very soft and flexible. (Herringbone weave is also sometimes called Ndebele weave after the Ndebele
people of Zimbabwe.)
You do have to concentrate a bit, but the only really tricky bits are the beginning and the end. Once the pattern is established, you can just zip along!
Mobius Lantern
by susannes on November 6, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Mobius Lantern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: collect your materials! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: assemble your circuit! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: program your Arduino! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: cut the mylar! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: assemble your lantern - 1! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: assemble your lantern - 2! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 7: enjoy the glow!!!! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
6
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Mobius_Lantern/
intro: Mobius Lantern
These steps will show you how to make your own Mobius Lantern with color changes.
Image Notes
1. color changes
step 1: collect your materials!
You will need the following materials:
-- Mylar
-- string or transparent fishing line
-- tricolor LED
-- http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardDiecimila or other microcontroller
-- battery pack, at least 5V
-- approx. 10-100 ohm resistor calculate the value of your resistor here based on the materials you have available
In addition, you may need:
-- scissor
-- transparent tape
-- cutting board
-- cutting knife
Image Notes
1. Mylar and string
Image Notes
1. Technical materials
step 2: assemble your circuit!
-- Solder wires to the leads on the LED. There should be one pad for each (red, green, and blue). There will also be a pad for the common cathode (ground). Solder the
100 Ohm resistor to the wire attached to the ground.
-- The ground wire will attach to the ground pin on the Arduino. The other three wires must be attached to pins labeled PWM on the Arduino. In our case those will be pins
9, 10, and 11.
-- Attach the battery to the top of the Arduino.
-- Tie string to the three holes on the Arduino board and tie them in the center above the board so that it hangs parallel to the ground.
Image Notes
1. USB Arduino board with tricolor LED and resistor
step 3: program your Arduino!
Program your Arduino with the code from this tutorial Arduino tutorial. We increased the fading speed.
step 4: cut the mylar!
You can be creative with the size and shape of the strips. The attached cutting files are suggestions.
If you have access to a laser cutter:
-- upload the dxf files included here to the drawing program you use
-- cut them out on the laser cutter
If you do not have access to a laser cutter:
-- print out the pdf files included here as templates
-- place the mylar on a cutting board
-- stick the templates onto the mylar
-- use scissors or a cutting knife to cut out the shapes
Image Notes
1. Cutting out Mylar on the laser cutter
File Downloads
cut_files.dxf (39 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'cut_files.dxf']
cut_files.pdf ((2448x1296) 8 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'cut_files.pdf']
step 5: assemble your lantern - 1!
-- Take the first strip of mylar (the widest one) and twist it once and then fold the tab under and over to secure it
-- Take the second strip of mylar (medium or thin) and wrap it around the loop you've just made, sliding it through the slit in the wide trip, secure as above
-- (optional) Take the third strip of mylar (wide or narrow) and repeat as above
step 6: assemble your lantern - 2!
-- Insert the board into the lantern near the top of the thicker strip
-- Make a small hole at the top of your lantern
-- Push the string through the hole and secure with a knot above and below the hole
Image Notes
1. assembled lantern
Image Notes
1. assembled lantern
step 7: enjoy the glow!!!!
A sampling of the color changes can be seen in the photo below. Try rearranging the strips, adding more strips of different widths, and different thicknesses of Mylar for
different effects.
Image Notes
1. color changes
Bicycle Lantern
by alpacalypse
120V A/C Lamp
Flicker from
LED Votive
Candle Type 1
(COB) by sr1sws
Steampunk
style LED
lantern by
mechatronics
Home-made
Sun Jar by
cre8tor
Make A Portable
Solar lantern by
slchorne
Mobius LED
Lantern by
susannes
mini USB
powered Tiffany
Lamp by
KaptinScarlet
LED
Microcontrolled
Stained Glass
Firefly Pendant
by clamoring
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Comments
7 comments
Add Comment
leahbuechley says:
Nov 16, 2008. 7:48 AM REPLY
lovely! those Luxeon LEDs are insanely bright! I keep meaning to use them for something like this. Will they actually kind of illuminate a room when you run
them off the Arduino?
joejoerowley says:
Nov 8, 2008. 6:07 PM REPLY
Cool! Nice Instructable!
JellyWoo says:
very nice! two questions:
1. can you use wall outlet power?
2. how much is the whole project?
thanks.
Nov 6, 2008. 1:03 PM REPLY
susannes says:
Nov 7, 2008. 9:38 AM REPLY
thanks for the comment and questions.
1. Yes, you can use a power supply to power the arduino, you just have to hide the cable, may-be you can find a white one.
2. hhmm....not sure, I put it together out of parts I had around. the LED is about 8USD, the board 20USD (but you could use a cheaper one) or so, power
supply 5USD, battery may-be 10USD, 5USD for a big sheet of mylar....
JellyWoo says:
Nov 7, 2008. 2:29 PM REPLY
oh, okay, thanks, great project!
urbosssez says:
Nov 7, 2008. 10:00 PM REPLY
oh, also
if your cheap like me
wait for after holiday stuff
i waited for after valetines day
and got a cheap heart that changed RGB colors
it only cost me i think $3 or less and no arduino needed
JellyWoo says:
oh, cool.
Nov 8, 2008. 9:19 AM REPLY
Paul Lapides - CHIDIY 2009
http://pages.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~plapides/Projects/CHIDIY2009
View
Print
CHIDIY 2009
How to make a fisheye lens attachment for a handheld
camcorder
Home
Professional
Consumer camcorders typically are equipped with a very powerful zooming lens but lack any wide-angle
abilities. This deficit makes them very poor tools for recording any kind of close up action. Also, these kinds of
video cameras do not allow the lenses to be replaced with dedicated wide-angle lenses, like professional
cameras allow.
Projects
Publications
This DIY instructable will show you to make your own wide-angle (fisheye) lens attachment for about $15.
Teaching
Personal
Travel
Photos
Videos
Search:
Visit the hardware store
For this exercise, we will be using a standard door peephole. You know those things you look through to see
who is outside your door? They cost anywhere from $5 to $12 at the local hardware store and come in a variety
of sizes. This optical system can be placed in front of any digital camera lens, transforming the view from an
undistorted picture to a fisheye image, with a diagonal field view of up to 180°.
Go
When picking out a lens, a few things need to be considered.
The weight and size of the lens
The zoom of the camera
The desired quality
Large lenses are preferred as they will provide minimal vignetting (black circle around the picture) and chromatic
aberration (blue fringes around objects). The problem is that these lenses have a lot of metal that make them
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heavy and not practical for some smaller cameras.
The lens we will be using is model U-9896 as shown in packaging above. We will be attaching this lens to
Canon's ZR800 camcorder.
Make an attachment piece
Measure the width and height of the camera. Cut a piece of plastic that is at least as wide as the camera, and
2/3 the height. This should be sturdy plastic and about 2mm thick. Make sure that the plastic does not cover the
microphone that is usually at the front of the camera.
Near the top of the piece, drill a hole that is the diameter of the threaded part of the lens. It may be difficult to
find a drill bit of this size, so drill several holes into an approximate shape, and use a heated piece of metal to
melt the sides until the hole is circular.
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Under near the hole, at about the middle of the plastic (lengthwise), cut two notches on either side about 5mm
wide and deep.
Attach the lens
Carefully screw the lens into the hole of the plastic piece. The threading of the lens should create it's own groove
in the hole and the lens should screw in easily after this.
Find a sturdy elastic band. We are going to use the elastic to hold the plastic piece to the front of the camera
using the notches on the side.
Final adjustments
Strap the elastic over top of the camera so that the plastic and lens is being pressed firmly against the front of
the camera. Align the lens to the camera's lens elements (make sure not to scratch the glass). You may need to
align the lens vertically and horizontally, so both lenses are aligned properly.
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Adjust the zoom of the camera so the fisheye image takes up most of the viewfinder. You may also need to
adjust the focus manually.
This is a video demonstrating the fisheye attachment.
Measurements
Here are some crude measurements comparing the standard zoom of the camera with the fisheye attachment.
These pictures were obtained by taking a picture of a test grid with markings at 2cm increments from the centre
in the horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions. In both cases, the lens (not the camera) was 14cm away from
the test grid. Because the attachment is about 5cm long, the front most part of the camera was the same
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distance from the grid.
In standard mode, the camera was zoomed out as much as possible. In the fisheye mode, the camera was
zoomed in so that vignetting was reduced as much as possible.
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Distance from centre of frame to edge of frame
Lens
Horizontal Vertical Diagonal
Normal
6.6cm
5.0cm
8.3cm
Fisheye
14.0cm
9.0cm
15cm
Increase
212%
180%
180%
Using the distance of the lens from the grid (14cm), we can make a right angle triangle to compute the
horizontal, vertical, and frame field of view (the angle sweeping from the left side of the frame to the right for
horizontal FOV).
Field of view, angle sweeping from one side of the frame to the other
Lens
Horizontal Vertical Diagonal
Normal
50°
39°
61°
Fisheye
90°
65°
94°
Increase
180%
165%
155%
Other peephole lenses
Hardware stores sell many types of peephole lenses, and the one used in these instructions was found to work
the best for camcorders. Smaller peepholes exist but are more difficult to use.
First of all, the large diameter of the peephole that we used matches the diameter of the front lens of the
camcorder. Using a smaller lens, like the one shown above, creates significantly more vignetting. It's small size
also makes it very difficult to secure to the camera body. Also, the small size of the glass creates a significant
problem with chromatic aberration at the edges of the frame.
However, these small lenses work very well with point and shoot digital camera. The lens diameters of these
cameras are usually very small and match the size of this small peephole. A camera with at least 3x zoom is
desired to remove vignetting as much as possible.
Page last modified on December 12, 2008, at 06:14 PM
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Physical Computing at ITP | Tutorials / Multiplexer
http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Tutorials/Multiplexer
Multiplexer
Multiple Inputs to a Microcontroller Using a Multiplexer
Original draft by Tom Igoe, Nov. 2008
What do you do when you run out of inputs on your microcontroller? This is a common problem. For example, the
Arduino microcontroller module has only six analog inputs, but what if you're building a drum glove, and you want
one analog input for each finger, so you can measure how hard each fingertip hits the table when you tap on it? Or
what if you're making a touch-sensitive surface that reacts as you move your hand across it? There are several
solutions to this problem, but one of the easiest is to use an analog multiplexer. A multiplexer is a chip that has
several inputs, one output, and a series of address pins that let you choose which input is connected to the output.
click on any image to see the large view
To use a multiplexer to expand your sensor
range, you connect the multiplexer's output to the
microcontroller's input, then connect sensors to
the multiplexer's inputs. Then you control the
address pins on the multiplexer using a few digital
outputs from your microcontroller. The diagram to
the left shows a typical multiplexerto-microcontroller connection. The multiplexer
shown is a CD4067B which has 16 inputs and
one output. Although this tutorial is shown on an
Arduino Mini, the multiplexer can be used with
most any microcontroller.
By changing the state of the address pins, you
change which of the sensors is being read by the
microcontroller. For example, if all of the address
A multiplexer's functional diagram
pins are low, then the sensor on input 0 is
This does not reflect the spatial arrangement of the pins
connected to the output, and the microcontroller
can read it. When A is high and the rest are low, the sensor on input 1 is read. When A is low and B is high, sensor 2
is read.
There's a pattern emerging here: the states of the inputs is a binary number. Here's a table that explains it:
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A
B
C
D
Inhibit
Selected channel
X
X
X
X
1
None
0
0
0
0
0
0
1
0
0
0
0
1
0
1
0
0
0
2
12/18/08 11:35 AM
1
1
0
0
0
3
0
0
1
0
0
4
1
0
1
0
0
5
0
1
1
0
0
6
1
1
1
0
0
7
0
0
0
1
0
8
1
0
0
1
0
9
0
1
0
1
0
10
1
1
0
1
0
11
0
0
1
1
0
12
1
0
1
1
0
13
0
1
1
1
0
14
1
1
1
1
0
15
In the example that follows, you'll connect three multiplexers to a microcontroller in order to read 48 photocells, in
order to make a light-sensitive surface.
Parts you'll need:
48 10Kilohm resistors
Microcontroller.
I used an Arduino mini
3 multiplexers, CD4067B
Plenty of 22-AWG hookup wire
48 photocells
solderless breadboards
If you've never used a microcontroller before, you might want to start with a more basic tutorial.
Step 1: Connect the microcontroller on the breadboard
The circuit shown here is the basic setup for an Arduino mini connected to a
USB-to-serial converter. You can see power and ground from the USB are run
to the rails of the breadboard so it's convenient for the other components on
the board. The 0.1uF capacitor from the reset pin is connected to the RTS pin
on the mini USB adaptor. This enables auto-reset when the serial port is
opened, meaning you don't have to press the reset button every time you
upload new code. If it gives you problems, you can remove it, and press reset
every time.
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Arduino Mini with mini USB adaptor
Step 2: Connect the first multiplexer
Attach voltage and ground.
The inhibit pin connects to ground.
Add the address connections.
Add the output connection to the
microcontroller's input.
Schematic view
The address pins are connected to pins 8, 9, 10, and 11. I chose these pins because it was convenient in terms of
the board layout. Pins 8 and 9 on the Mini are on the same side as pins A and B on the multiplexer. You can change
the pin numbers if your project needs those pins for something else. Just make sure that pins A, B, C, and D on the
multiplexer are connected to four digital output pins in sequence, or the code won't work.
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The multiplexer's inhibit pin breaks the connection between input and output when you connect it to 5 volts. Connect
it to ground so the chip will work all the time.
The multiplexer's output is connected to the microcontroller's analog in pin 0.
Step 3: Add one sensor
Schematic view.
Add one sensor to the multiplexer's input.
The multiplexer's inputs are connected to 16 photocells in voltage divider circuits. The circuit for the photocell is just
the same as it would be if you were connecting it directly to the microcontroller's analog in.
Add one input, then test with the code below.
// the address pins will go in order from the first one:
#define firstAddressPin 8
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
// set the output pins:
for (int pinNumber = firstAddressPin; pinNumber < firstAddressPin + 4; pinNumber++) {
pinMode(pinNumber, OUTPUT);
// set all the pins low to connect in 0 to the output:
digitalWrite(pinNumber, LOW);
}
}
void loop() {
// read the analog input and store it in the value array:
int analogReading = analogRead(analogInput+mux);
Serial.println(analogReading, DEC);
}
When you see values printing out in the Serial Monitor that change when you cover the photocell, you know it works.
Step 4: Add fifteen more sensors
There's not a lot of space around the multiplexer, so it's often easier to connect your sensors on a second board, as
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shown here.
Eight inputs connected, numbers 0 through 7. It's wise to add all the resistors early on, so you don't have to work
around the wires
All sixteen inputs connected.
It takes awhile to wire lots of sensors, so it's a good idea to test with just one multiplexer first, to make sure you wired
it correctly and that it works. Here's a test program that will print out the sensor values for all 16 channels of the
multiplexer:
int sensorValue[16];
// an array to store the sensor values
int analogInput = 0;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
}
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}
void loop() {
for (int channelNum = 0; channelNum < 16; channelNum ++) {
// determine the four address pin values from the channelNum:
setChannel(channelNum);
sensorValue[channelNum] = analogRead(analogInput);
delay(10);
// print the values as a single tab-separated line:
Serial.print(sensorValue[channelNum], DEC);
Serial.print(",");
}
// print a carriage return at the end of each read of the mux:
Serial.println();
}
void setChannel(int whichChannel) {
for (int bitPosition = 0; bitPosition < 4; bitPosition++) {
// shift value x bits to the right, and mask all but bit 0:
int bitValue = (whichChannel >> bitPosition) & 1;
// set the address pins:
int pinNumber = firstAddressPin + bitPosition;
digitalWrite(pinNumber, bitValue);
}
}
Step 5: Add the other two multiplexers
Each multiplexer's output gets attached to a separate analog input of the microcontroller. The first is on analog 0, the
second on analog 1, the third on analog 2. Although only three are shown here, you could easily add more for all
your analog inputs.
The address pins of the additional multiplexers can all be connected to the same four pins on the microcontroller as
the first one. You can see in the picture below that they're daisy-chained.
All three multiplexers connected. Note the daisy chaining of the address pins
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Step 6: Add the rest of the sensors
The remaining sensors connect to the multiplexers in the same way as the ones on the first multiplexer. Because
you've got so much wire to add, it's best to plan this in advance, and think about how you're going to organize the
board. I checked the spacing on a few sample photocells first, then I removed them and added the resistors where I
needed them, then added the connection wires, then finally added the photocells.
The completed circuit
Step 7: Program for all the inputs
Now that you've got the whole board wired, modify the preceding program to read all three multiplexers. It's a pretty
simple modification. All you need to do is to add a loop iterating over the whole routine for one multiplexer. Here's the
code:
int sensorValue[48];
// an array to store the sensor values
int analogInput = 0;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
}
}
void loop() {
// iterate once for every multiplexer (called muxes for short):
for (int mux = 0; mux < 3; mux++) {
for (int channelNum = 0; channelNum < 16; channelNum ++) {
// determine the four address pin values from the channelNum:
setChannel(channelNum);
sensorValue[channelNum] = analogRead(analogInput+mux);
delay(10);
// print the values as a single tab-separated line:
Serial.print(sensorValue[channelNum], DEC);
Serial.print(",");
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}
}
// print a carriage return at the end of each read of the mux:
Serial.println();
}
void setChannel(int whichChannel) {
for (int bitPosition = 0; bitPosition < 4; bitPosition++) {
// shift value x bits to the right, and mask all but bit 0:
int bitValue = (whichChannel >> bitPosition) & 1;
// set the address pins:
int pinNumber = firstAddressPin + bitPosition;
digitalWrite(pinNumber, bitValue);
}
}
Step 8: Graph it
It's not so interesting to see the numbers scroll by, so here's a Processing sketch that reads the serial data in and
graphs the relative values of the sensors. It reads until it gets a newline character, then splits the string it got on the
commas, and assigns each resulting value to a bar in a bar graph. This can be useful to help you figure out which of
your sensors is working and which ones aren't.
// import the serial library:
import processing.serial.*;
Serial myPort;
// instance of the serial library
int[] sensorValues = new int[48]; // array to hold the sensor values
void setup() {
// set the size of the window:
size(800,600);
// open the serial port. My Arduino shows up as the first port in the list.
// Yours may not, so check to see that you have the right port.
myPort = new Serial(this, Serial.list()[0], 9600);
// don't generate a serialEvent unless you get a linefeed in from the microcontroller:
myPort.bufferUntil('\n');
// clear the serial buffer:
myPort.clear();
// don't draw strokes around the shapes:
noStroke();
}
void draw() {
// nice green background:
background(99,234,120);
// dark green foreground:
fill(63,144,74);
// if there are sensor values, graph them:
if (sensorValues != null) {
// how many sensors? As many as are in the array:
int sensorCount = sensorValues.length;
// iterate over the array, draw a bar for each one:
for (int thisSensor = 0; thisSensor < sensorCount; thisSensor++) {
// calculate the horizontal position of the bar
// based on how many sensor reading you have:
float hPos = (thisSensor* width/sensorCount);
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// calculate the height of the bar based on the sensor value:
float sensorHeight = map(sensorValues[thisSensor], 0, 1023, 0, height);
// calculate the starting vertitical position based on the height:
float yPos = height - sensorHeight;
// draw the bar:
rect (hPos, height - sensorHeight, width/sensorCount, sensorHeight);
}
}
}
void serialEvent(Serial myPort) {
// read the serial buffer:
String myString = myPort.readStringUntil('\n');
// if you got any bytes other than the linefeed:
if (myString != null) {
myString = trim(myString);
// split the string at the commas
// and convert the sections into integers:
int sensors[] = int(split(myString, ','));
// make sure you have enough readings:
if (sensors.length >= sensorValues.length) {
// put the readings into the global array:
for (int sensorNum = 0; sensorNum < sensors.length; sensorNum++) {
if (sensorNum < sensorValues.length) {
sensorValues[sensorNum] = sensors[sensorNum];
}
}
}
}
}
When it's working, you should get a graph something like this, except less even, unless you have lit your sensors as
evenly as I have:
The output of the graphing program
That's it! You can apply this same technique with any type of sensor, analog or digital. Furthermore, you can add
more multiplexers to as many available inputs as you have. Go forth and multiplex.
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Thanks to Chris Cerrito, Amanda Berensohn, and Eduardo Lytton for the inspiration.
Page last modified on November 07, 2008, at 09:32 PM
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potholder from old newspapers
by eliajn on November 3, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: potholder from old newspapers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: prepping the newspaper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: roll the paper strips into final shape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: sew the units together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
6
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
6
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
http://www.instructables.com/id/potholder_from_old_newspapers/
intro: potholder from old newspapers
This is a potholder / trivet / thing-to-put-hot-things-on made entirely from old newspaper, glue, and a little string.
Materials:
1) 8 half-size sheets of newspaper or 4 full size sheets
I used the advertisement section for the colors; extra is good to have for covering your work surface.
2) scissors
3) glue
You need something that will dry clear and is easy to apply. I used Scotch brand scrap-booking glue, which came in a tube with two applicator tips, one small and
pointed, one round and fabric for smearing. I found this fabric side to be the most helpful for applying thin coats of glue.
4) needle (& thimble)
The eye of the needle needs to be big enough for whatever string you choose, but otherwise the needle should be as small as possible to keep from making huge holes
in your final product. You may also want a thimble to protect your fingers while pushing the needle through the paper rolls.
5) thread or string
I used #20 red hemp cord, which I had on hand, but probably picked up in the beading section of a craft store at some point. Other good options would be cotton twine or
sturdy button thread (probably doubled). This is mostly an aesthetic choice.
Image Notes
1. front side
Image Notes
1. back side (you can see the finishing knots)
step 1: prepping the newspaper
Cut each half-size newspaper in half, so that you have 16 strips of newspaper, each approximately 6 inches wide.
Fold each strip in thirds lengthwise. Just this first time, you don't need to glue down the flaps. As you fold, you are choosing which colors will end up on the outside whichever colors are in the center on the outside (you are folding away from the outside) will be the color of the rolled paper unit.
Then fold each strip in thirds lengthwise again and glue in place. It helps to fold first to get the creases straight, then unfold, apply glue, and press together. Using a
fingernail to get your creases really crisp at this step makes the final fold easier.
Repeat the folding in thirds and gluing one more time, so that you have long strips of folded newspaper about a quarter of an inch wide. This is possibly the most difficult
step, since you are folding several layers of gluey newspaper together. Don't expect to get past this step without sticky fingers...
Image Notes
1. the advertisement section is nice and colorful
Image Notes
1. folding in thirds to create a 2-inch wide strip
Image Notes
1. nice fabric applicator tip on the clear glue
2. this 2-inch strip was pre-creased in thirds to make it easier to fold after
applying the glue
Image Notes
1. one last folding into thirds, again pre-creased - finger strength is helpful here to
really flatten out the strip
step 2: roll the paper strips into final shape
Now you get to construct the units that will make up your final potholder.
First take a look at the colors of your strip, and decide which end you want to have on the outside of the unit and which you want on the inside. Starting with the inside
end, pinch an inch or so and roll it up tightly. It's important for the first rolled-over piece to be as small as possible, or you will end up with a rectangular unit instead of a
square when you're finished. (There's nothing wrong with rectangles if that's what you're shooting for, but if you want to end up with a square then unevenly-sized
rectangles will be tricky to fit together to make a square.)
Unroll that inch or so and apply glue to a small section of the strip. Re-roll the inch and keep going until you get to an unglued portion. Then glue the next 6 inches or so
and keep rolling. Repeat until you reach the end of the strip.
As you roll, do your best to make regular square corners. Some squishing and pushing around is definitely involved here, but the sooner you get it square the easier it will
be to keep it that way until the whole strip is rolled. Perfect corners are not as important as straight sides.
Do all 16 strips like this, and then arrange them however you like to make a nice pattern for the final potholder. Leave them until the glue is completely dry and the units
are hard little squares, probably several hours at least (I left mine overnight).
Image Notes
1. this unit will have a lot of red in the middle
2. the tighter you can make the center, the closer the unit will be to square when
you finish it off
3. this whole surface gets glue applied to it; too much and the newspaper will start
to fall apart, too little and it won't stick together
Image Notes
1. this strip had a lot of yellow toward the end
2. not a perfect corner, but the side of the square is fairly straight
step 3: sew the units together
To sew your pieces together, you'll need 24 6-inch-long pieces of string. Cut them a little longer if you like to have more extra to work with when tying knots.
Thread the needle, no knotting is necessary. Push it through the edge of one paper unit, between the two outermost layers of the paper roll and at the center of one side
of the square. Pull it through so that you have an inch or two of string left hanging out the opposite side of the square.
Then in the same way push the needle back down through the edge of the next unit in your array. When you turn the two squares upside down and remove the needle,
you now have two loose ends of string coming out of two adjacent paper units. Pull them tight together and tie a simple overhand knot. (See the second picture in this
step.) The side of the units with this knot will end up being the back side of the final product.
Holding onto the loose ends of string, flip the connected units over again. Wrap the ends of string around the single string that's there already, just crossing them past
each other.
Finally, flip over to the back side again and tie the ends of the string together tightly into a square knot. Trim any excess string.
Repeat to connect the rest of the paper units together. I found it easiest to first make four strips of four units each, and then connect these. Just make sure you're keeping
the knots consistently all on one side of the units, so that you end up with a smooth front side.
You now have a sturdy and heat-resistant potholder! Of course, you could use those paper units to make just about anything you want...use just 4 units for a coaster, 96
for a placemat, or a whole bunch to create a pixelated image and hang it on the wall.
Image Notes
1. finished knot
2. starting a new knot to add the third piece on, the hole is in the middle of the
outermost loop of paper
Image Notes
1. simple overhand knot on what will be the back side of the final product
Image Notes
1. just a simple crossing of the string on the front side
Image Notes
1. square knot on the back side with the extra ends trimmed off
Image Notes
1. four strips of four, ready to be sewn into one final large square
Image Notes
1. back side (you can see the finishing knots)
Image Notes
1. front side
Reuse a
"disposable"
spice mill by
xenobiologista
Plastic Bags
(guide) by Lego
man
Recycled fishtin desk tidy. by
AndyGadget
The Green Pee
Cat Litter
System by
LannyPlans
Recycle plastic
grocery bags,
wire hangers
and newspaper
into Loons! by
stinkymum
Mouse Pad
makeover by
nobodysfool
Going Green! A
couple things
you can do to
help the
environment. by
g0pher
Free Recycled
Boxes for
Shipping and
Packaging ANY
CARRIER! by
erckgillis
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Comments
7 comments
Add Comment
adidame says:
Dec 12, 2008. 10:10 AM REPLY
I have seen these as coasters and picture frames. Very good!
sasafras says:
Nov 22, 2008. 7:04 AM REPLY
i found these at global infusion, a shop here in gr mi which sells only fair trade items. they were made by someone in ...ghana...? they are so very striking
looking, finely crafted and almost enigmatic, with the print randomness. these are made mostly of regular black and white print paper with occasional touches
of colon in one or another spiral. cool to see people hare are making them too. i gave the fair trade ones as gifts. not one of us have ever used them as
trivits...they are on our walls. maybe i will actually use it, thanks to the reassurances of eliajn!
leahbuechley says:
Nov 15, 2008. 11:08 AM REPLY
what a beautiful thing! spinning straw into gold ;)
LuminousObject says:
Nov 4, 2008. 4:16 PM REPLY
This is a really cool idea. Like Doctor What said, if only you got this in sooner.
Doctor What says:
Nov 3, 2008. 6:29 PM REPLY
If you would have posted this yesterday, it would have been perfect for the 1929 contest! Dang!
Pretty cool! But I'm not sure exactly how well it would, well, not catch fire.
eliajn says:
Nov 3, 2008. 8:46 PM REPLY
Shoot! Didn't know about the contest. Oh well...
As for the catching of fire, compressed paper is surprisingly resistant to such things. Paper alone has a pretty high flash point (about 450 deg F / 232 deg
C), so even if you take something right out of the oven it's not likely to ignite. Since it's also impregnated with glue and very tightly compressed, it's even
more heat-safe. All very nice in theory, but I've also been using one of these for nearly a year with not even a singe mark.
Thanks for mentioning it, however, as others might have similar concerns!
itschrys says:
It's so nice and colourful, and a great use of old newspapers. Nice instructable!
Nov 3, 2008. 5:05 PM REPLY
RFID Reader Detector and Tilt-Sensitive RFID Tag
by nmarquardt on October 30, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: RFID Reader Detector and Tilt-Sensitive RFID Tag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Material and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 2: Building the RFID Antenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 3: RFID Reader Detection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 4: Tilt-Sensitive RFID Tag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 5: Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
http://www.instructables.com/id/RFID_Reader_Detector_and_Tilt_Sensitive_RFID_Tag/
intro: RFID Reader Detector and Tilt-Sensitive RFID Tag
The 'rub'
Want to detect the presence of RFID readers? Want to control when a RFID tag is active or readable? We describe how to do both using bits of copper and card, and
some readily available electronics hardware.
Longer preamble
Radio frequency identification ( RFID) is rapidly growing in popularity. RFID tags are found everywhere. They're attached to container freight, in those funny-looking white
labels you find in newly purchased books, embedded in many corporate ID cards and passports, etc. The tags have a few common properties: they transmit a unique ID
number, are optimized to be 'read' from predefined distances, and are usually small so they can remain unobtrusive or hidden.
RFID readers are used to track nearby tags by wirelessly reading a tag's unique ID (see Figure 4); a tag simply has to be brought into physical proximity with a reader to
be read. Readers are mostly used for industrial or commercial purposes, e.g. asset tracking or electronic payment. Wal-mart use RFID tags and readers in their supply
chain. The technology is also used in mass transit systems in cities like London and Hong Kong. In Japan, many mobile phones incorporate readers to enable e-money
payments in shops and vending machines.
For those of us who want to experiment with RFID, the problem is that the technology is almost always black boxed. That is, the inner workings of a tag and its interaction
with a reader is hidden from view, and thus difficult to have much control over.
In the two exercises that follow (building a RFID reader detector and a tilt-sensitive RFID tag), we offer an example of how you can start revealing some of the workings
of RFID and thus gain some control over the technology. The two exercises also hopefully show that the technology is relatively simple and how it can be extended to
support some interesting interactions. We offer some other possibilities that build on our examples at the end.
Image Notes
1. Tilt-sensitive RFID tag
Image Notes
2. RFID reader detector
Image Notes
1. Simple RFID reader detector
Image Notes
1. Small RFID stickers
2. RFID tag in the form of a credit card
3. Inside of RFID tags: antenna and connected chip
intro: RFID Reader Detector and Tilt-Sensitive RFID Tag
The 'rub'
Want to detect the presence of RFID readers? Want to control when a RFID tag is active or readable? We describe how to do both using bits of copper and card, and
some readily available electronics hardware.
Longer preamble
Radio frequency identification ( RFID) is rapidly growing in popularity. RFID tags are found everywhere. They're attached to container freight, in those funny-looking white
labels you find in newly purchased books, embedded in many corporate ID cards and passports, etc. The tags have a few common properties: they transmit a unique ID
number, are optimized to be 'read' from predefined distances, and are usually small so they can remain unobtrusive or hidden.
RFID readers are used to track nearby tags by wirelessly reading a tag's unique ID (see Figure 4); a tag simply has to be brought into physical proximity with a reader to
be read. Readers are mostly used for industrial or commercial purposes, e.g. asset tracking or electronic payment. Wal-mart use RFID tags and readers in their supply
chain. The technology is also used in mass transit systems in cities like London and Hong Kong. In Japan, many mobile phones incorporate readers to enable e-money
payments in shops and vending machines.
For those of us who want to experiment with RFID, the problem is that the technology is almost always black boxed. That is, the inner workings of a tag and its interaction
with a reader is hidden from view, and thus difficult to have much control over.
In the two exercises that follow (building a RFID reader detector and a tilt-sensitive RFID tag), we offer an example of how you can start revealing some of the workings
of RFID and thus gain some control over the technology. The two exercises also hopefully show that the technology is relatively simple and how it can be extended to
support some interesting interactions. We offer some other possibilities that build on our examples at the end.
Image Notes
Image Notes
2. RFID reader detector
Image Notes
1. Simple RFID reader detector
Image Notes
1. Small RFID stickers
2. RFID tag in the form of a credit card
3. Inside of RFID tags: antenna and connected chip
step 1: Material and Tools
This section provides an overview of the necessary materials and tools.
Materials (see Figure 1):
We need the following material to built the basic RFID reader detector.
- Cardboard (around 100x70 mm)
- Conductive copper tape (e.g., order number 1218478 at www.farnell.com)
- Capacitor 82 pF (picofarad) (e.g., order number 1138852 at www.farnell.com)
- Low current LED (light-emitting diode) (e.g., order number 1003207at www.farnell.com)
Tools (see Figure 2 and 3):
- Craft knife and scissors
- Insulating tape (e.g., order number 1373979 at www.farnell.com)
- Soldering iron and solder
RFID reader for testing (see Figure 4):
To test our RFID tags we need an RFID reader that can operate at a frequency of 13.56 MHz.
There many readers for this widely used RFID standard, for instance the Sonmicro MIFARE USB reader (http://www.sonmicro.com/).
Note: The Phidget RFID reader does not work with the tags created in this project, as it uses a different frequency for communication with the tags (125 kHz).
Advanced material (see Figure 5):
The following material is necessary to build the second part of the project: the tilt-sensitive RFID tag.
- Micro tilt switches (e.g., www.digikey.com)
- RFID ICs (e.g., MIFARE Standard 1k, part no. 568-2219-1-ND at www.digikey.com)
Image Notes
1. Insulation tape
Image Notes
1. Conductive copper tape
2. Capacitors (e.g., SMD) 82pF
3. Cardboard, around 100x70 mm
4. LED (light-emitting diode)
Image Notes
1. Antenna of the Sonmicro RFID reader
2. Sonmicro 13.56 MHz RFID Module
Image Notes
1. Micro tilt switches
2. RFID ICs (MIFARE Standard 1k)
step 2: Building the RFID Antenna
This step describes how to build the antenna for the RFID tag.
Building the RFID tag antenna
To build the tag's antenna follow these three steps.
1. Cut the conductive copper tape into thin stripes of around 2mm (see Figure 1).
2. Tape these stripes (see Figure 2) in loops around one half of the cardboard (see Figure 3 for the layout of the antenna). The tag should have between 3-4 loops for the
antenna.
3. Solder all the connections between the copper tape. Sometimes, this isn't necessary as the tape's adhesive backing is conductive, but solder the connections if you
want to be on the safe side.
Now we have created our RFID tag antenna, and we will add the "RFID reader detection" functionality in the following step.
A little background
RFID readers transmit an electromagnetic (EM) field with their reader antenna. This EM field induces a current in the antenna for all RFID tags within reading distance.
This induced current activates the RFID chip that is connected to the tag's antenna. This chip then modulates a response (usually the unique ID number) that is
transmitted back to the reader. The antenna of an RFID tag is usually a thin copper wire that is arranged in loops. The loops allow the emitted EM field of the RFID reader
to induce current to the antenna of the tag.
Image Notes
1. Thin stripes of the conductive copper tape (around 2 mm thick)
Image Notes
1. Taping the copper stripes onto the cardboard
Image Notes
1. Three loops of the antenna
Image Notes
1. Soldering the copper tape connections
2. Soldering the copper tape connections
step 3: RFID Reader Detection
This step describes how to add a simple mechanism to the RFID tag antenna that allows us detect nearby RFID readers.
Antenna connection
First, we add a small piece of insulation tape for the connection of the inner end of the antenna loop (as illustrated in Figure 1). This is to insulate the outer loops. Then
we add another copper tape strip to the inner end of the antenna as shown in Figure 2. Here again we solder the two ends of the conductive copper tape together.
Capacitor and LED
Next, we add the capacitor (82 pF) and the low current LED to the tag as shown in Figure 3. They are connected in parallel. We also solder these two components to the
copper tape (see Figure 4).
Testing
With these simple steps, our RFID reader detector is finished! By bringing our DIY RFID detector close to an RFID reader (as shown in Figure 5), the connected LED
lights up. With the Sonmicro reader hardware the distance to the reader has to be below 8-10 cm; however, there are RFID readers available with a stronger EM field and
therefore a higher maximum reading distance.
In the next step of the instructable we will show how to extend a basic RFID tag and make it tilt-sensitive.
Image Notes
1. Adding insulation tape for the connection
Image Notes
1. Adding connection to the inner end of the antenna loops
2. Soldering connection again
Image Notes
1. 82pF Capacitor
2. Low current LED
Image Notes
1. Soldering connections
2. Soldering connections
Image Notes
1. RFID reader is near the tag
2. LED lights up
step 4: Tilt-Sensitive RFID Tag
We now describe the process of how to build a tilt-sensitive RFID tag. This extends the previous exercise.
Antenna
The antenna for this second RFID tag is similar to the first antenna we built. We thus need another piece of cardboard and to repeat the steps described earlier in STEP 2
of this instructable.
Tilt-sensitive tag
Next, we add additional copper tape connections to the tag, as shown in Figure 1. These connections allow us to connect three tilt switches, a capacitor, and the LED to
the antenna. Again, all the connections of the copper tape are soldered together.
We add the three tilt switches to the tag as shown in Figure 3. The tilt switches are soldered to the copper tape, and it is important to connect them in a slight angle
(around 5-10 degrees) as shown in Figure 4. This makes sure that the silt switches are in a closed state while the RFID tag is in a horizontal position, and in a open state
while the tag is in a vertical position.
Again, we also add an LED and a capacitor to the antenna as shown in Figure 3 (we use a different form factor of the capacitor here just to illustrate the alternative
options).
Testing the tilt-sensitive tag
We can now use our Sonmicro RFID reader again to test our new tilt-sensitive RFID tag. The tag is activate while in a horizontal position as in Figure 5, and is inactive
when in a vertical position as in Figure 6.
Using RFID chips
We can now replace the connected capacitor and LED from our tag with an RFID chip (e.g., the MIFARE 1k shown in Figure 7). By doing this, the activity of our tag is no
longer visible through the LED, but our tag is then readable by the RFID reader and responds with the unique ID number of the chip.
Image Notes
1. Additional copper tape for connecting the tilt switches, the capacitor, and the
LED with the antenna.
Image Notes
1. Again we use insulation tape for the connection
2. Soldering all copper tape connections
Image Notes
1. SMD capacitor (82 pF)
2. Again a connected low current LED
3. This arrangement of the tilt sensors makes is possible to sense the horizontal or
vertical position of the tag.
Image Notes
1. The angle of the tilt sensors is important
Image Notes
1. The tag is activated when it is in a horizontal position
Image Notes
1. As long as the tag is in a vertical position, the tag is inactive
Image Notes
1. Using the MIFARE RFID chips to create a tilt-sensitive RFID tag
step 5: Variations
This section concludes our instructable of how to build custom RFID tags. Here are a few additional tags to show the possible variations.
- Variable length of the tag antenna, and therefore also variable reading distance of the tag (Figure 1).
- Experiments with the tag size and material (Figure 2)
- Switching between the LED and an RFID chip (Figure 3)
- Light-sensitive tag: the tag is active in daylight, and inactive in darkness (Figure 4)
- Touch-sensitive: tag is active when someone touches the tag with a finger (Figure 5)
- Different material for antenna by using conductive silver ink (Figure 6)
- Stamped layout of an RFID tag antenna (Figure 7) that is in fact working!
Many other variations of RFID tags are feasible... Happy DIY!
Image Notes
1. Variable length (and loops) of the antenna
2. Switch to activate and deactivate the RFID IC
Image Notes
1. Experiments with form factors for the RFID tags
Image Notes
1. Button to switch between LED reader detection and the RFID tag
2. RFID chip MIFARE 1k
Image Notes
1. Light sensitive tag
Image Notes
1. Capacitive touch-sensitive pad
2. Voltage regulator
3. Diode
Image Notes
1. Antenna layout painted with conductive silver ink.
Image Notes
1. This antenna layout is stamped with conductive silver ink (and the antenna is in
fact working!)
RFID Proof
Soda Can Wallet How to
by
block/kill RFID
prometheus442
chips by
w1n5t0n
RFID Secure
Wallet by
dogsrcool2me
How to make a
RFID pet food
access control
system by
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Accelerometer
Tilt Controlled
Wireless RGB
LED-lights
(video) by Andlier
RFID Shielding
Pouch Out of
'Trash' by laras
Low Cost Water
Flow Sensor
and Ambient
Display by
staceyk
How to make
simple "motion"
sensors by
teebee918
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Comments
i805 says:
Nov 18, 2008. 11:02 AM REPLY
i very much enjoyed this inscrutable and very educated too.
would it possible to use a thin copper wire(0.1-0.5 mm) i pulled out of a small mooter ?
from my understanding if i were to be near a shop with RF reader(those that prevent stealing)will it light?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 18, 2008. 11:57 AM REPLY
Yes, this is absolutely possible. You can use thin copper wire for the antenna; in fact, most commercially available RFID tags use this material for their
small integrated antennas. I've added a small image that shows such a tag and the thin wire of the antenna. However, if you create such an antenna by
yourself, you have to do a few experiments with the length of the antenna wire as well as the number of loops.
About your second question: you're right, a few of the security systems in stores use the 13.56 MHz RFID technology, so the LED of our simple detector
would light up (I tested it :). However, quite many stores use different (sometimes proprietary) technology, that also uses a different frequency and
protocols. In this case, the detector in its current form would not work, but you can modify the design (antenna, capacitor) to work with different RFID
hardware and frequencies.
zimmemic25 says:
Nov 29, 2008. 1:54 AM REPLY
there are some rfid stickers which have just 3 different shaped metal sheets laying on each other, how do they work?
i805 says:
Nov 22, 2008. 11:38 AM REPLY
thanks
if you say I'll have to try different lengths and loops than i give up cause i don't think it will be appropriate doing this near the RFID reader in the shop.
another Q if the led will light will the RFID reader will beep too(in the shop)?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 22, 2008. 2:06 PM REPLY
No, these simple RFID detectors (via inductive coupling) are usually invisible for the RFID readers in shops. Furthermore, the RFID readers for
security in shops usually respond to a specific signature on the chips. However, sometimes they are tuned very badly, which means they give a
lot of false alarms, and then they might also give alarm when only this simple circuit is near the RFID reader. In all cases where I tested it, the
security RFID readers in shops never gave alarm.
i805 says:
Nov 28, 2008. 8:48 AM REPLY
thanks
i went down the mall to a clothing shop and saw a rectangular plastic attached to a clothe,only the cashier can separate it with a sort of a
device, do you know what is the technology of the this(-the separation- i know there is RFID chip inside the plastic).
for education purpose only .
nmarquardt says:
Nov 28, 2008. 9:15 AM REPLY
I know what you mean, but to be honest: I don't know how this mechanism works. As you mentioned, the 'security' part of this inside
works with RFID technology as well. But for the 'separation' part of this, I have no idea of how it is implemented (and I'm sure the
company that is producing these security parts is happy about keeping their secret :-). I could imagine it is some kind of a special
electromagnetic field that is releasing the security tag (with a specific pulse pattern?). But this is just a guess; maybe someone else has
an idea of how this could work.
i805 says:
Nov 29, 2008. 11:50 AM REPLY
thanks anyway for your kindness and taking the time for answering :)
zimmemic25 says:
Nov 29, 2008. 1:52 AM REPLY
how much power is usable for the led?
if its more than 1V, i could add a piezo beeper.
and btw. is it ac or dc? cause the beepers i use only work on dc.
leahbuechley says:
Nov 26, 2008. 5:02 AM REPLY
very cool instructable! Great detail and pictures! Out of curiosity, have you ever built any of these circuits on flexible substrates -- fabric or paper for
example?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 28, 2008. 9:20 AM REPLY
Hi, thank you for your feedback! Yes, I have also a few examples on flexible material. Paper works good with the conductive tape on it; and if you use a
conductive pen to paint the antenna, you just have to make sure to not bend the paper too much, as it could remove the silver particles from the paper
(and you then loose the connection).
For fabric: yes, I tried this as well. First, using thin wires on normal fabric, and second, using conductive fabric (very expensive). Both works great, and
this is definitely the fun part of this project: trying out all different kind of materials, simple sensors, and combinations of them.
aballen says:
Nov 19, 2008. 8:44 PM REPLY
This is a great article on inductive coupling. I see how to power an led via inductive coupling, and then switch it with the rfid tag, how do I read the id on the
tag?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 19, 2008. 11:15 PM REPLY
To read the ID on the tag, you actually need to use one of the mentioned RFID readers, and either use the communication protocol for this reader (e.g.,
serial protocols), or you use the often included software tools and SDKs. You can then read the tag ID, and also write custom data to tags (if the tags
support this, as for instance the MIFARE 1k, 4k, ultralight).
k-twizel says:
Nov 19, 2008. 7:51 AM REPLY
Just wondering if anyone knows how to program a RFID with a custom ID... thinking about an RFID blocking purse/wallet that has a 'honey pot' tag on the
outside with a custom message like "Byte Me" or "Hands up, Sucka!"
nmarquardt says:
Nov 19, 2008. 11:12 PM REPLY
There are many RFID readers available that let you write data onto the tags; for instance the mentioned Sonmicro RFID reader (but many others are
mentioned in the comments here). With their provided software tools you can write data (around 600 bytes and more) to the tag. However, if all the other
RFID readers will then access this data is maybe not always the case, as they use proprietary protocols.
msweston says:
Nov 11, 2008. 12:25 PM REPLY
This is really cool. I like the idea of being able to paint electronics :-)
I think I might just have to try this over thanksgiving break!
nmarquardt says:
Nov 11, 2008. 2:42 PM REPLY
Yes, the painting of the tag circuits is really interesting. Btw, you can find "conductive pens" (e.g., on ebay) that make it very easy to paint/draw the
antenna loops and any circuit connections.
We look forward to hearing from you when you tried it out. Just write a message if you have any further questions.
msweston says:
Nov 14, 2008. 6:36 PM REPLY
I tried a simple version of this just the other day, I used a silver "micro-chip repair pen" and it was very interesting! There was some resistance (only a
few Ohms though) but it could easily light up an LED. Can't wait to try this with the chip and all too.
~P.S. For anyone else printing their circuit be sure to give some thickness to the antenna, for some reason there is a drastic difference in the signal it
picks up with a thinner antenna.
rblee says:
Nov 12, 2008. 10:08 AM REPLY
I don't suppose anyone does inkjet cartridges with conductive ink in them do they? How cool would that be?
Thanks for the instructible BTW, there's a lot of really good ideas in there.
11010010110 says:
Nov 12, 2008. 12:09 PM REPLY
is there a standard inkjet ink that makes thick layer ? if yes it can be used to create a negative and then painted over and wiped out
nmarquardt says:
Nov 12, 2008. 11:27 AM REPLY
Oh yes, this would be great! There are already PCB printing machines (or advanced 3D printers) that can do this; but unfortunately their price
goes far beyond the usual Instructable budget :-)
But it would be great to have a cheaper way to print with conductive ink. For anyone trying this out: the tricky part of this is that the conductive ink
is viscous (mainly because of the silver particles). But maybe someone finds a way to work around this. The ink definitely works well for painting
and stamping...
srhadaham says:
Nov 12, 2008. 10:32 AM REPLY
that would make life a lot easier for those of us with limited soldering skills
luketanti says:
Nov 14, 2008. 11:05 AM REPLY
Hello. what is the power source for the led?? Or does it get free energy?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 14, 2008. 12:43 PM REPLY
The current is induced by the RFID reader to the antenna of the tag (inductive coupling). There is no battery or other power source necessary (but
possible -> active RFID tags). You can find more information about this by searching for "inductive coupling" (e.g.,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_coupling), "parasitic power" as well as "resonance circuit".
static says:
Nov 12, 2008. 9:31 AM REPLY
This device is mostly for detecting the presence of RFID readers, right? Wouldn't a conventional radio receiver, that activated a surplus cell phone vibrator,
be constructed smaller, and give an alert without watching an LED? Not to mention a better range(distance) of detection?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 12, 2008. 10:59 PM REPLY
Yes, you're right, it would have a better range for the detection. However, designing such a circuit goes beyond the very simple principles of this article.
I actually designed such a circuit with a custom PCB and it's own energy source; and I hope to find the time to write an article about it and share this with
you. The detection distance goes far beyond the passive detector (up to 45 cm), but it is still quite complicated to build this in a very small form factor
(antenna, battery). I would be happy to hear more about your suggestions for this.
For me, the focus in my experiments was actually not the "RFID detection" itself, but working on experiments of how to change and modify the usual
behaviour of the RFID tags.
solis365 says:
Nov 14, 2008. 5:12 AM REPLY
the antenna material, being copper tape, is moderately flexible. you could install this circuit with a vibrator/buzzer/light into a backpack or purse. this
would give enough room to stow a small battery pack (like the size of a few AAs) and make an active detector. I could also imagine making a fabric
"patch" that can be stuck inside a shirt sleeve, etc.
I would like to hear more about this active device youve created... another instructable perhaps?
could also add a switch that controlled an array of filters. switch between filters and youll be able to look for multiple different kinds of RFID (i.e.,
different frequencies)
Photo-Worx says:
Nov 13, 2008. 12:29 PM REPLY
Another place to get an RFID reader and tags starter kit is at Parallax. This kit only costs $45.99 and will work with a microcontroller or a pc. Comes with a
variety of tags too.
11010010110 says:
Nov 12, 2008. 12:14 PM REPLY
if you put a transistor instead of just LED you can amplify it to boost sensitivity and to power something else except a low current led
nmarquardt says:
Nov 12, 2008. 4:33 PM REPLY
That is a very good point, thanks for your comment. A transistor before the LED is definitely very useful for optimizing the detection. Powering something
else (besides the LED) is however still challenging (without switching to active tags).
11010010110 says:
Nov 13, 2008. 8:59 AM REPLY
why not active tag ?
you dont need much energy anyway so maybe precharged capacitor is enough
you can also use tiny solar cell
tewfik says:
Nov 12, 2008. 8:28 AM REPLY
Thank you for this great Instructable !
I enjoyed reading it, well documented and step by step, it was a pleasure to learn how to build a rfid detector
also i think it lacks (imho) a bit of 'black magic', like how did you simulate the behaviour of the antenna ( what kind of software) , what knowledge is required
to do this kind of stuff ( works the first time, needs tuning ) , or if it is possible to glue some CMOS logic ( or something analog) to the antenna to reproduce
an rfid response.
thanks again,
cheers
nmarquardt says:
Nov 12, 2008. 9:54 AM REPLY
Thanks for the feedback: these are great ideas for a follow-up article :) We really tried to keep this first article as simple as possible, so that even people
that are not familiar with electronics, RFID, etc. can start doing simple experiments.
But here a few initial thoughts to your suggestions:
simulate behaviour of the antenna: there are two sides of software (for the reader and of the tag IC). The mentioned Sonmicro reader provides a set of
development tools, libraries, etc. On the side of the RFID IC, we used Mifare 1k, 4k, and a few others. While we did more experiments with reading and
writing of these tags, we did not yet develop custom ICs for RFID.
necessary knowledge: so far I've built around 25 of various custom RFID tags, with different antenna layouts, used materials, tuning capacitors, and
integrated sensors (and not everything of this worked :-). It also included much more experiments with various RFID readers, frequency generators, or
custom software tools. While this Instructable should be very easy to understand, there is definitely potential for many further experiments with this
approach. And to your last question: this is absolutely possible, and I'm working on these things at the moment. There also already exist other projects
related to that, for instance the OpenPICC (http://www.openpcd.org/openpicc.0.html). If you have skills of how to build PCBs you will be definitely happy
with this project :-)
rblee says:
Nov 12, 2008. 4:07 AM REPLY
RFID readers are usually quite (and unjustifiably!) expensive - The one mentioned in this instructible is nearly $150 for the USB version.
Take a look at http://tikitag.com
They do a starter kit of tags and reader for about $50. It looks a bit proprietary, but it does work at 13.56MHz, and reading s/w is available for Windows,
MacOS and Linux (Debian/Gnome only, as far as I can tell).
The reader must be detecting all 13.56MHz chips, although possibly filtering non-Tikitags out, so it may just be a software problem.
Be warned though - The reader's firmware is held on a smartcard, reputedly to keep the cost down, so if the filtering is done in the reader itself this might
take a LOT of work to hack.
So what else are you going to do now winter's here? :)
nmarquardt says:
Nov 12, 2008. 9:26 AM REPLY
Thank you for this suggestion. This RFID starter kit looks like a great starting point for experiments with RFID. The basic 'detection' of this reader with our
detector-tag should would work right away (because they use the same frequency). If you want to build custom RFID tags for this, you could also think
about trying to use one of their special tags, remove parts of the tag to find contacts to the chip, and then add the tilt switches or any other sensors to it.
Otherwise, they also write in their FAQ that they also consider opening their service for other tags, and users that are interested in that should send them
an email. Besides that: your idea of working around a software filter on the firmware sounds also like an interesting hack :)
Sparrowhawk says:
Nov 11, 2008. 4:27 PM REPLY
It would be great to combine one of these detectors with a secure wallet.
Not only is your data safe, but you're warned if someone tries to swipe it!
nmarquardt says:
Nov 12, 2008. 9:06 AM REPLY
This is a great idea! When building this you have to make sure to have enough distance between the metal of the secure wallet and the RFID detector.
Any metal nearby the RFID tag antenna decreases the readability of this tag: this is of course important for the function of the secure wallet, but it also
means that the RFID detector does not work if too close to the metal film of the secure wallet.
mspark400 says:
Nov 11, 2008. 7:35 PM REPLY
I have been waiting a very long time for an instructable like this. Very clear, great pics, and useful as well as simple information.
Fav + 5/5
Cheers,
Mspark400
benz_z says:
Nov 11, 2008. 2:57 PM REPLY
nice -ible, can rfid tags be read trough fariday cages ?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 11, 2008. 3:28 PM REPLY
Faraday cages are in fact a very good 'shield' around RFID tags and prevents that tags inside of the Faraday cage are detected by the RFID reader. This
protection would be the same for the tags we've explained here, i.e., they are not detectable when they're inside of a Faraday cage. Btw, it is already
sufficient to cover only part of an RFID antenna with metal to make it nearly impossible to read the tag with the RFID reader anymore.
cooldog says:
Nov 11, 2008. 1:19 PM REPLY
if you add more conductive boxes to the RFID tag reader will i work at farther ranges
nmarquardt says:
Nov 11, 2008. 3:24 PM REPLY
Adding more loops to the antenna does unfortunately not directly improve the detection distance. Instead, it is important to optimize the tag for resonance
to the 13.56 MHz frequency of the reader. There are two very important parameters for optimization: the length and number of antenna loops, and the
parallel capacitor (parameters with smaller influence are for instance the material of the antenna, the form of the antenna, as well as the thickness of the
material). Three to four antenna loops are very good for the material we proposed (copper tape) as well as the 82 pF capacitor. For optimization, a trim
capacitor (e.g., 10 - 140 pF) could be used, in order that you then can "tune" the capacitor to optimize the detection distance. The most important factor
is actually the RFID reader itself (e.g., the strength of the EM field), so it is good to do experiments with various RFID readers.
In our experiments the maximum detection distance (with the small Sonmicro RFID reader we mentioned) was around 20 cm. There is a theoretical
maximum reading distance for this class of RFID readers (near-field) of around 1.5 meters. There is, however, the ultra-high frequency (UHF) technology
of RFID that allows a reading distance of tags of more than 10 m. This RFID hardware is more expensive and also more difficult to set up. But the ideas
explained in this Instructable (detection, tilt-sensitive) can be used with the UHF RFID systems as well.
Bongmaster says:
Nov 11, 2008. 12:21 AM REPLY
this is kool :)
so i could make my bus card wallet light up with an led wen i use my card on the bus :D. i assume using a detector along side a rfid card wont have any
effect on the card being read?
nmarquardt says:
Nov 11, 2008. 12:35 AM REPLY
Yes, that would work, you could have one of the RFID detectors integrated into your wallet and then see the LED light up every time there is a RFID
reader nearby detecting this bus card.
However, the answer to your second question is that this RFID detector would in fact influence the readability of the RFID card. There is a bit
optimization of the antenna design necessary (antenna length and layout) to design them in a way that the two antennas don't influence each other. But
this is definitely possible to do; we tried this with another experiment of "twin-antennas" on a single RFID tag.
Roomba costume
by egoodman on April 10, 2006
Table of Contents
intro: Roomba costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Measure Roomba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Make patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 3: Transfer patterns to fabric . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Cut out pattern pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Sew tail together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 6: Sew top and sides together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 7: Sew pink felt onto ears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 8: Attach ears to costume base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 9: Make snout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 10: Sew on the little pink nose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
step 11: Attach whiskers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 12: Velcro stickums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
step 13: Add whiskers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
8
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
8
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
9
http://www.instructables.com/id/Roomba-costume/
intro: Roomba costume
Make a furry mouse costume for your Roomba.
Supplies:
1 yard 60 wide fake fur
1/4 yard pink felt
pink thread
brown thread
straight pins
wire
2 2 pieces of sticky back velcro
Tools
Needle/thread/sewing machine
Scissors
Measuring tape
step 1: Measure Roomba
If you're being careful, use a measuring tape to get the diameter of your Roomba at its widest, and the height of your Roomba at its tallest. That way, your patterns are
less seat-of-the-pants. I was not so careful, and just traced the patterns directly from the Roomba.
step 2: Make patterns
The pdf file with the pattern for the mouse pieces is the guide for all following steps. It's not at all to size, but it is roughly to scale. Based on the measurements of your
own Roomba, use it as a guide. You may want to enlarge each shape to the exact size on a copier, or just roughly copy the shapes onto scrap paper. The brown paper
from cut-up paper grocery bags is ideal because it won't mark up whatever fabric you're using (unlike newsprint).
When I was making the mouse, I didn't bother with making patterns for the top and sides at all - I just drew and cut directly from the Roomba itself (see Step 3).
Cut whatever pieces you've made out of whatever kind of paper you're using.
Image Notes
1. I just sketched this mouse ear freehand on a scrap envelope that came with some junk mail.
File Downloads
mouse_pattern.pdf (437 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'mouse_pattern.pdf']
step 3: Transfer patterns to fabric
Take whatever fabric you're using (I used brown fake fur and pink sparkly felt) and lay it upside down on a flat surface.
As I said, I didn't bother using a pattern for the top and sides since they're very simple shapes. I just put the Roomba down on the fake fur and traced its edge using a
piece of white soap. White soap (pale chalk or brightly colored gel pens also work well) is good for marking up dark fabric. And there you have the top of the mouse.
Then I measured around the edge of the drawn circle using, um, a USB cable (I didn't have measuring tape handy). Using a ruler, I sketched out the dimensions for the
side of the mouse - a rectangle as high as the Roomba and as long as the Roomba's perimeter. Here's where things get a bit complicated. Depending on what kind of
fabric you use, there may be a discernable direction to the way the fabric lays. This is pretty obvious on fake fur - when you 'rub it the wrong way,' you can tell. I wanted to
make a mouse whose fur went the right way. So I drew the side rectangle so that when cut out, the fur would look as if it flowed naturally from the top of the mouse to the
floor. This should make sense if you refer back to the mouse picture in the intro.
The tail is another rectangle - this one much skinnier. I sketched mine out freehand and placed it so that the fur flowed from the base of the tail to the tip.
There are two ears, and each ear has an inner (felt) and outer (fur) piece. Note that the pattern (seen below) was slightly asymmetrical, because I wanted the ears to be
slightly cocked to the side. Get two small squares of fur and lay them down so the fur is facing the floor. Put the ear pattern down right side up on one piece of fur and
draw around it with the soap. Then flip the ear pattern over and put it on the second piece of fur. Draw around it. Now you will have two fur ear pieces, one a reflection of
the other.
The pink felt is easier to cut. Take one piece and fold it in half. Lay ear pattern down on the folded felt and trace it in dark pen. Keep the felt folded - when you cut that
pattern out, you will get two felt fur ear pieces, one a reflection of the other.
You only need to cut out one nose - it's just a small oval of felt. I have drawn nostrils on the pattern so that you can see how they would go - but I didn't choose to use
them on my version of the mouse.
Image Notes
1. I just sketched this mouse ear freehand on a scrap envelope that came with
some junk mail.
Image Notes
1. Soap
Image Notes
1. I used a USB cable to measure around the circle. You are more organized than
I am, and you will probably be using a measuring tape instead. Right?
Image Notes
1. Felt has been folded over
step 4: Cut out pattern pieces
Now that you've got all the pattern pieces traced onto the fabric, you can start to cut. Now would be a good time to double check that you have everything laid out
correctly, with the grain of the fur going in the right direction. Measure twice, cut once, etc.
Some of the pieces will need some extra room outside of the traced pattern. This is called the seam allowance. You can leave as much seam allowance as you want, but
I usually go with one-half inch. In this case, I have marked the areas that need a seam allowance of some sort with a thick black line on the pattern reference. On those
sides, cut one-half of an inch outside of the traced pattern line.
Only applicable if you are using very thick fake fur: Go back and trim the fur from the seam allowances. This will keep the seam from being too bulky later on.
Image Notes
1. Trimmed fur leaves a dark patch behind
step 5: Sew tail together
Take the tail piece you just cut out. Lay the tail on the work surface so that the fur side is down. Fold over one short side so that the tail is about 1 shorter. Then fold the
two long sides together so that they meet in the center, making a furry tube. Sew the tube together in much the same way you would lace a sneaker, so that the two long
ends lie flat. Then stitch down the "end" of the tail so that it's like an envelope. Got it?
step 6: Sew top and sides together
You could probably do this with a sewing machine. I was dubious that mine could handle the fake fur, so I hand-stitched. I was hoping there would be a good tutorial for
sewing on instructables, but there isn't. Go here instead.
Before you start sewing, you might want to cut little triangles out of the circular top as shown in the photo. This is called "clipping." The idea is to make the triangles big
enough so that they almost - but not quite - touch the seam line that you drew from the pattern. You place them every couple of inches to reduce the bulk of the fabric.
Take the tail piece you just stitched together and pin the "bottom" of it to the non-fur-side of the top so that there's about an inch of tail inside the seam line. That way,
when you sew the sides onto the top the tail will already be placed where it needs to be.
Usually, one would begin by sewing the ends of the side together to make a big circle, fitting the top into the circle, and pinning them together so that the seam of the side
matches up to the bottom of the tail.
However, if you are using the Roomba hack from Tod and Mike, then you will probably want to leave a slit open for the Roomba controller to stick out. So I left the back
slightly open by not sewing together the sides first. I still pinned the side to the top so that the slit was at the bottom of the tail, though. See the picture of the inside-out
Roomba cover for details.
Now would also be a good time to check if the base fits.
Image Notes
1. This is what the tail looks like when it's sewn on.
Image Notes
1. Slit at back left open for the bluetooth controller to stick out.
step 7: Sew pink felt onto ears
Now whipstitch the pink felt onto the back side of the fur.
Cut a slit from the base of the fur piece to the bottom angle of the felt piece.
Image Notes
1. Cut a slit in the bottom of the ear so that you can stitch it down to the base more easily. You'll see what I mean later.
step 8: Attach ears to costume base
The costume base should be sitting pretty on your Roomba. Is it? Good.
Now take one of the ears and pin it to the "face" of the Roomba at whatever angle you think is cutest - or creepiest. Refer to this and this if you need any inspiration. The
slit you cut in the base of the ear should make two flaps you can pin flat to the "head" of the mouse costume at the appropriate angle.
Stitch the ears onto the mouse. If you have chosen long fur, it will nicely cover all the visible stitches.
step 9: Make snout
This part required a lot of experimentation to come out right. Start by cutting out the trapezoid pattern and rolling it up to make a thick cone. Refer back to the cute/creepy
pictures if you need to ponder what a mouse snout should look like. Then stitch the snout cone together. Pin the cone onto the costume base at the correct angle, and
stitch it on. As I said, this part took a lot of experimentation. But the fur will cover up a lot of mistakes.
step 10: Sew on the little pink nose
Once you're done with the snout, you can whipstitch on the nose.
step 11: Attach whiskers
Now cut 6 9 pieces of wire and stick them through the base of the nose so that they look like whiskers.
You're almost done. I promise. Just one more thing.
step 12: Velcro stickums
Now that you have your mouse ready, put it back on the Roomba and just for any problems. If you're good to go, take the base off and take those pieces of sticky velcro.
You're going to use the velcro to more securely attach the costume to the Roomba. Otherwise, it will just fall off as your mouse is cleaning underneath the sofa or some
other hard-to-reach place.
Peel off the paper backing from one side of the Velcro pieces. Stick them onto the Roomba somewhere where they won't interfere with the buttons. Now peel off the other
side and place the costume down on the Roomba. Press firmly to attach the velcro to the costume.
Now your cleaning machine is unstoppable. Except when the battery runs out.
step 13: Add whiskers
Baby Princess
Leia Costume!
by jessyratfink
Happy
Halloweenie
Costume 2008
(slideshow) by
obsequies
Kid's Obi Wan
Costume (A-La
Instructables)
by CementTruck
Big t-shirt to
little angel by
roxibus
Advertisements
How to Clean
the Front Wheel
of a Roomba
Discovery by
ewilhelm
Pokéfan
costume:
Snorlax by
therealbenni
Sexy Bunny
Costume by
giannyl
Cleaning a 1st
or 2nd
Generation
Roomba by
trebuchet03
Comments
leahbuechley says:
Nov 15, 2008. 10:57 AM REPLY
adorable!
Rectifier says:
Oct 22, 2008. 9:54 PM REPLY
My girlfriend already thinks the stock roomba is cute in its mousy movement... and calls it "Roomba" in the first person.
I can't put a costume like this on it or it'll be too cute! Also, I was wondering if you covered the vacuum exhaust or if you left an undocumented hole for it?
Wouldn't want people to cover that up...
egoodman says:
Oct 22, 2008. 10:26 PM REPLY
Oh, good question. I don't remember, and don't have the costume on hand to check. I didn't end up using the costume that much -- it was cute, yes, but
kept falling off.
kfwickl says:
Aug 24, 2008. 4:58 PM REPLY
This is adorable! And very clever!
jessyratfink says:
Aug 13, 2008. 7:49 AM REPLY
Oh, I love this! When I get a Roomba I'm definitely making costumes for it. :D
incorrigible packrat says:
Feb 6, 2008. 9:30 PM REPLY
I was expecting of costume to make you look like a Roomba, but this is way better. I just gotta ask, Does it only suck up cheese now?
Icearenna says:
Sep 18, 2007. 6:57 PM REPLY
I just HAVE to make this! I have 8 cats! They love the Roomba - think they'll love it even more?
egreen767 says:
Aug 31, 2007. 12:20 AM REPLY
holy crap, thats funny!
awesome though!
Morte_Moya says:
Aug 4, 2007. 4:12 AM REPLY
That is GREAT!!! The first thing that popped into my head was a DRD too!!! I say go for it!!!
Always nice to meet a fellow Scaper. Yes that is my tattoo. Its on the inside of my left wrist. LOL
thevenerablez says:
Apr 30, 2007. 8:37 AM REPLY
awesome.
Cyno01 says:
Apr 12, 2006. 4:26 PM REPLY
Heh, im moving into a new place in a few weeks and am planning on getting a roomba. I was gonna paint it yellow and kitbash it into a DRD from farscape
though.
Start your own summer camp!
by nagle on May 4, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Start your own summer camp! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Overview: Logistics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Figuring out what's going to happen at your camp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 3: Finding a place to have camp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Pricing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 5: Advertising and Propaganda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 6: Getting your license . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 7: Staffing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 8: Legal matters: medical and liability insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 9: Business matters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 10: Overview: Running Camp! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 11: Projects! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 12: Rules! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 13: Trouble! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 14: When doesn't camp work? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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step 15: Kids teaching themselves! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
http://www.instructables.com/id/Start-your-own-summer-camp/
intro: Start your own summer camp!
Two years ago, I started Camp Kaleidoscope -- a hands-on art and science camp for kids ages 6 - 12.
At camp, kids get to pick from activities run by counselors (like making rockets or video games, taking machines apart, or making liquid nitrogen ice cream), making their
own inventions with all of the materials we have out (stuff like art supplies, electronics, and hand tools) or just playing on their own. It's awesome.
I'm going to describe the process of starting a summer camp. It'll work for any kind of camp, but this is particularly geared towards kids working on hands-on projects and
having a lot of freedom.
Image Notes
1. The triumph of dry ice, soap, and water.
step 1: Overview: Logistics
Here are the key hurdles you need to clear in order to start a camp:
Figuring out what's going to happen at your camp
Finding a place to have the camp
Advertising
Licensing
Liability and medical insurance
Staffing
Getting a simple business set-up
Let's proceed!
step 2: Figuring out what's going to happen at your camp
The first step is to figure out some idea of what you want to do at your camp. This is a little tricky, because you probably won't really know what you're doing at your
camp until the second to last week of your first summer or so, but you need to have something to say to people in order to get started.
Here's what we did:
We knew that camp would have two main components:
1. hands-on activities: all the activities that we were going to do were going to be hands-on.
2. freedom: kids were going to have the freedom to do whatever they wanted to at camp -- our projects, their own projects, or just play.
Then you have to flesh out that theory enough to be able to describe how one single day will run. In our case, that meant thinking of a handful of cool projects for kids to
do and make (robots! kites! make computer games! build robots!) and then explaining that we were going to offer campers these sorts of activities throughout the day.
The kicker to the spiel was explaining that we were in effect providing kids with an initial spark of inspiration, and once they fell in love with an activity, we would give them
the room to do it all day if they wanted and take off with it.
This last paragraph is part of a spiel I've given hundreds of times now. Practice your spiel with your friends and colleagues in planning the camp. It will get clearer and
clearer the more you give it. There's going to be a slight wariness from parents when they consider sending their kids to a camp running in its first year: it's best if you can
capture the magic of your future summner camp in your spiel to offset that worry.
Image Notes
1. We mean hands-on in a very literal way.
step 3: Finding a place to have camp
Once you've got an idea of how your camp is going to run, you're going to want to start getting kids on board. Before you can do that though, you're going to have a place
to have it, so that parents can figure out whether or not they can bring their kids to your site.
Churches are an excellent resource (as are synagogues, temples, and other religious centers used primarily on weekends.) We found space our first two summers by
calling up a ridiculous number of churches and asking around until we found a space that was free for the summer. Incidentally, this turns out to be a great to chance to
refine your spiel about camp before giving it to families who might attend.
Schools are another possibility -- many are unused during the summer. Calling up the local school board or schools themselfves has never gotten me anywhere. Due to
liability issues, only a few people in the school system actually have the authority to let a school be used by another organization. The easiest way to get school space is
to either utilize or make a personal connection, who can then navigate the hierarchies of power to get your space use approved. I've heard some people recommend
calling principals directly.
Features to look for in a space include:
Being near a park or other play areas. If you're giving kids' freedom, you'll want to give them ample space to run around and play.
Being near public transportation. This opens the world up to field trips and the exciting adventures of taking kids on busses and subways!
Having parking nearby. Last summer we were in the heart of urban congestion -- Harvard Square, and there was no parking less than a 10 minute walk away. Whoever
owned the street we were on (and how someone can own a street is beyond me) had hired a towing company to send a tow truck up and down the street we were on 24
HOURS A DAY. Counselors had to race outside out to fend off the tow trucks when a parent parked for three minutes to pick up their kid -- it was like playing Choplifter.
And lastly, having more than one room to use. This isn't necessary -- we did without it our first year, but it can be really nice to have separate spaces to run activities with
a small subgroup. We've tended towards labelling one area as the soft/quiet area, full of pillows, quiet voices, and chill activities, so that kids can escape the high-energy
parts of camp when they need to.
Additionally, the site coordinator will want to know that you are going to be licensed, provide liability and accident insurance for the site, and are doing background checks
on your staff. Licensing and insurance are contingent on having a site, but in my experience all the coordinators want to know is that you will get those things done and
provide them with copies of the relevant paperwork once you have them.
Image Notes
1. We were in this very room our first summer. It's the Harvard-Epworth Church in Harvard Square, on the
Cambridge Commons.
Image Notes
1. Our intrepid parents, trying to pick their kids
up.
2. The evil tow truck!!
3. Camp and kids running around.
4. Our nemesis: the tow truck!!!
step 4: Pricing
The trickiest fact you'll need before working on getting the word out is figuring out how much camp will cost. I found two things helpful in setting a price -- looking at other
camps in the area and seeing what prices were viable, and establishing a policy where we took anyone interested, regardless of income. The second policy is both
personally important to me and also helped me feel better about setting a price ($250/week) that is out of reach for a lot of families.
An interesting aside about having a sliding scale policy: I've found that very few people have asked to pay less than half of our stated weekly price. Even though we say
"We work with all families regardless of their ability to pay" in our brochures, only about 1-2% of all people interested in camp have asked to pay less than half our listed
price. My interpretation is that families that can only afford $0 - 50 /week don't expect our price to come down enough, and would rather ask for financial assistance from
a camp with a lower full price. This has meant that we end up getting most of our families in this price range through direct outreach, where we have control over how
much outreach we do. The upshot of this is that we haven't been flooded by requests to come to camp for free (we hardly get any), and so having this policy didn't put us
under any unexpectedly large financial strain.
step 5: Advertising and Propaganda
Now that you know what camp is about, where and when it is, and how much it costs, you've got the basics down for creating a brochure and getting the word out.
When I've passed out brochures in fairs and events, I've seen parents scan the brochure for 4 facts: how old are the kids, what kind of camp is it, where is it, and how
much does it cost. These should be prominent and easy to find on your brochure.
You'll also need a few more facts, like:
How do people sign up or get more information? We listed contact information (email, phone, web site) where people could ask questions and find a pdf of our enrollment
form online. We later created an online form , which cut down on a tremendous amount of paperwork.
Pictures are really nice, but if it's your first year, you won't have any pictures of kids rocking out at camp yet! You can still use pictures of the projects you're going to do,
pictures of staff, or pictures of the site. (We dealt with this our first year by finding pictures of children on the Internet and then turning them into silhouettes and putting
them over our logo, so that we'd have some sort of depiction of our kids on our site.)
Information or short biographies of the staff are helpful. Including experience, education, and skills and interests suffices.
You may need a blurb saying your licensed that is required by the state department of public health. Like -- we're required to say "This camp must comply with
regulations of the Massachusetts Department of Health and be licensed by the Somerville Board of Health." I wouldn't worry about it if you're not licensed yet: as you go
through the licensing process and you find out what the required legal fine print is, include it in all future brochures.
A copy of our current brochure is attached.
Image Notes
1. In fact, we still use the silhouettes!
File Downloads
brochure.pdf ((792x612) 402 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'brochure.pdf']
step 6: Getting your license
This step specifically pertains to getting a license to run a camp in Massachusetts, but I'd expect it to be generally applicable.
To start the process off, you contact the Department of Health and ask for the summer camp inspectors. You tell them that you are starting a summer camp and ask
about how to get licensed -- they'll give you an application for a recreational summer camp license. The application primarily consists of writing up lots of plans as to what
you'll do in the event of various potential emergnencies, like if a child gets lost or injured.
You'll need to find a medical advisor for the camp. Your camp will need a nurse, pediatrician, or doctor to approve any medical plans you submit as part of your license,
and to be available to field questions over the summer. We have found this by asking the parents in our camp's extended community to recommend their child's doctors,
and also by asking the city inspectors for what doctors other local camps have used. We've never had to pay the doctor for this -- they've been willing to do it for free or in
exchange for a discount for their child to come to camp.
You'll also have to develop a fire evacuation plan and submit a copy to your local fire chief. The inspectors will tell you who specifically to submit this to.
All in all, it's pretty straightforward. I found Cambridge's health inspectors to be incredibly helpful when I was unclear about a particular plan, and they would often make
recommendations or provide examples from previous license applications.
You'll generally have two site inspections -- one before camp starts and one during camp. The one beforehand makes sure that the space your is in good physical shape
and is a chance for you to go over the background checks and medical records of your staff (see next step.) The second inspection makes sure that everything is running
smoothly at camp, and the inspectors will also check that you have all of the necesarry medical information for your campers (your camp's health form and general
physical information from their doctors.)
A helpful recommendation the inspectors have made is to have all medical information on note cards for field trips. The note card would be something simple: child's
name, medications approved by parents, any special information (allergies, prescriptions, unusual medical conditions), and emergency contact numbers.
A copy of our first license application is attached here.
File Downloads
camp license.pdf ((612x792) 54 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'camp license.pdf']
step 7: Staffing
For staffing in your first year, I advocate working with people you can communicate well with. Namely -- your friends. So much will be changing on the fly in your first
summer (especially during your first week!) that you'll want people to work with people that you feel comfortable spending a ton of time with and problem-solving with
during and after camp.
I am a big advocate of worker's co-operatives, and having people share power and profit equally. I believe that the closer our camp runs to this model (we're not there
yet), the smoother things run for the adults, the less they worry about whether they're allowed to do or buy something and instead just do what they think is right, and
ultimately the better everyone can think about how to make camp amazing.
Here's the legal things you have to do for staffing a summer camp:
Background Checks -- In MA, you need to file CORIs (criminal checks) and SORIs (sex offender checks) for each person you hire. SORIs are free and have a quick turnaround (within 2 weeks.)
CORIs can take quite a while. You first need to become certified to access CORIs . I think it's safe to allot 4 - 6 weeks for this (this tends towards 6 weeks when it's near
summertime and the board gets lots and lots of requests.) Once authorized, you can then fill out individual CORI requests for anyone you want to hire (this has a 2 week
turnaround by mail.) CORIs can now be processed online, which are easier to file.
You will also need basic medical information for your staff too (basic physical info and immunization history, or a written personal exemption from immunizations.)
Finallly, you need to pay them and report this payment to the IRS somehow. The easiest way to do this is to hire people as subcontractors, and give them 1099s.
Someone recommended efileforbusiness.com to me, which lets you file 1099s for $3.50 each. It's supposed to be easy; I'm going to try it this summer.
I have yet to figure out what the tax-minimizing option is of how to hire people, but subontracting has the benefit that instead of the employer withholding taxes, the
employee receives everything and then pays taxes at the end of the year, which is a lot simpler for the business.
step 8: Legal matters: medical and liability insurance.
You'll need to get medical and liability insurance to run your camp. It's good to have in case of an accident, and no site will rent to you unless you have insurance and
have named the site as a secondary policy holder on the liability insurance.
You can get insurance specifically for summer camp. We get our insurance from Maryann Mueller at Schirick and Associates. I've never had to file a claim with them, so I
can't say how well that works. They are dear to me because in the first summer we ran, when I blissfully knew nothing about liability, I found out four days before we were
slated to open that our site wouldn't rent to us if we didn't have liability insurance. This company processed our application within a day and was very affordable.
We also have a clause in our health form that we ask parents to sign, saying essentially that the family understands that we do our best and that we can't guarante an
accident-free, injury-free experience.
It's been suggested that in addition to this, we require an arbitration to clause to be signed -- requiring that a family enter arbitration with camp before suing us. Apparently
waivers are worthless if claims of negligence are made, but arbitation can help diffuse legal tensions. We have yet to try it, but it's something I consider.
step 9: Business matters
The details for running the financial end of camp are no different than starting up another business. However, as this was my first time starting a business, I figure it's
worthwhile sharing the details I found out.
I figured that it was important to set up a business checking account so that people could write checks to "Camp Kaleidoscope" and not me, Michael Nagle. I figured
things would seem less sketchy that way.
To do this, I went to City Hall in Boston and got a "doing business as" license (normally referred to as a dba license.) Basically, this mean that for $40, I (the legal entity
Michael Nagle) could do business as Camp Kaleidoscope. The form was a page or two and straightforward -- I think I probably had to bring an ID and it took me 10
minutes to fill out the form and get the license.
I then took that to a bank account (the Cambridge Trust Company) and got a business checking account. Problem solved!
We're now, in our 3rd year, in the process of becoming a non-profit corporation. To do this you have to....
First become a corporation (and in MA, a specific kind of corporation called a non-profit corporation.)
Then file with the IRS for 501(c)(3) tax-exempt status. Though I shared the dread everyone does when thinking about filling out Form 1023, the form to file for non-profit
status, it really wasn't that bad when I sat down to do it.
Instructions for Form 1023 was an incrediby helpful document. It answers all of the questions that come up when filling out Form 1023, very thoroughly. I found this
document invaluable in filing our non-profit status application.
There's also a good document released by the IRS on the distinctions of a public charity vs. a private foundation. You have to decide which one of these you are when
applying for non-profit status. I've unfortunately lost track of it, but if I come across it, I'll link to it here.
step 10: Overview: Running Camp!
We've now walked through all of the legal and administrative steps involved in getting your camp set-up. Now comes the fun stuff: running the actual camp!
Our camp runs in a very simple, straight-forward style: every day, we hold a morning meeting, and tell our campers what kinds of cool activities we'll be doing throughout
the day. Activities have included projects like: learning how to solder and making flashlights, programming video games, making rockets, making puppets, learning how to
make cheese, kite-making, liquid nitrogen ice cream, and so-on. You, being on this website, get the idea. It's a freaking DIY extravaganza and it is amazing.
The real trick is that kids don't have to do our activities. Kids can move freely throughout our space, check out different activities, make use of all the different tools and
materials we have out (like electronics, LEGOs and other construction toys, tools for taking things apart, art supplies, games, and so on) or just go play. We provide kids
with inspiration and a place to get started making stuff -- and then when they fall in love with something, they've got all day to take off with it.
In the next few steps, I'm going to go over the following things that come up when running camp like...
Projects!
Rules!
Trouble!
When does camp work?
and Getting kids to teach themselves.
Image Notes
1. We had a huge bag of LEGOs -- a counselor's childhood stash -- for kids to dive into whenever they wanted.
step 11: Projects!
The role of projects at camp is to get kids started. The most exciting times at camp are when kids take their own ideas for projects and spend all day hacking away at
them. We see projects as ways for us to display and transfer simple skills like soldering or hand-tool use, that kids can then absorb into their own creative endeavors.
One of the fanatastic things about making stuff with kids is that there are so many things you can do. Once you've done done a few projects with kids, pretty much
anything that's interesting can somehow be turned into a great building or science project. Asking kids for ideas is great too -- whenever I'm stuck for ideas, I'll ask kids
what they want to do, and without fail we'll come to something we're all excited about doing.
Some great resources include:
Instructables. Whenever I want to make something with kids and I don't know how, I often go to Instructables to see if there are any plans there.
Science Toys is a really fantastic project site. The Gonzo Gizmos book is excellent.
Scratch is a great, kid-friendly introduction to programming.
Our staple activities include:
Taking stuff apart: Computers and VCRs are great. We don't do televisions or CRT monitors because of the high-voltage capacitors, but we ask families to bring in
anything else they've got.
Making slime/oobleck. Mixing corn starch and water together. There're instructables on it.
Soda bottle rockets! Originally inspired by Howtoons. I like to use corks for the stoppers -- take a cork, puff it up in the microwave by heating it for a minute or so, fit it to
the soda bottle while it's still hot and squishy, and then drill a hole in the cork and stick an innter tube valve in the hole. It's a good basic project with lots of potential
modifications.
Basic electronics -- we have two stock activities here. One is showing kids how to solder by making a simple flashlight (soldering together a switch, 2 AA battery pack,
and a blue or white LED.) The other is using a breadboard to show kids how to turn on things like LEDs, motors, or 7-segment displays, and showing them how to use
switches. I really like to make simple switches with just two wires before moving onto switches where you can't see the internal mechanism.
Dry ice -- we always do this with adult supervision, who starts with a spiel about how to handle dry ice safely (in a cup and not with your hands, pretty much. We also
emphasize that unlike ice, in can no way go in your mouth and usually say something like "it'll burn your tongue for a week!" to drive the point home.) You put the dry ice
in a plastic cup, add water, or water and soap, or put it in ziploc bags and add water, or .... (there's tons of fun with dry ice!) Clear cups are particularly cool because then
you can see what's happening inside.
Baking soda and vinegar rockets -- by mixing baking soda and vinegar in a film canister, putting the lid on, and turning it upside down, you get a very satisfying miniature
rocket. This can also be done with dry ice and water.
Making snacks -- we've shown kids how to make pizza, cheese, crackers, and cookies.
Making airplanes -- we use balsa wood, and have kids freehand drawings on the wood, and then someone, usually an adult, will cut out the drawing with a utility knife and
we'll hot glue the plane together.
I've found that between running a constant stream of fun things to do, like these activities, and emphasizing that kids are free to do what they want to, kids quickly come
to camp bright-eyed and full of their own ideas for what they want to make and how. To me, this is the real goal of camp -- to empower kids to do their own thing!
Image Notes
1. Every day we had a schedule like this. It got more and more colorful as the
summer went on -- kids and adults would draw all over it.
Image Notes
1. Taking stuff apart was a staple activity. (Here we have the corpse of a VCR.)
Image Notes
1. There were lots of puzzles and games around too. In this one you jump the
frogs until the red one's left.
Image Notes
1. We left out 2 chess boards for campers to use whenever, and they got played
on a lot! Some weeks they were used nearly constantly. We were surprised by
how popular chess was.
step 12: Rules!
Last summer we had three rules:
Don't hurt anybody
If you make a mess, clean it up
Don't go to parts of the church you're not allowed to go to.
It was really simple. I liked to call them "The Rules of Reality" -- these are the basic rules that are expected of you as an adult in the real world.
Another variation on rule-making I like is making group contracts with kids, where everyone works out the rules together. The down-side is you won't get something as
clean and mantra-like as the first two rules above, but the benefit is that you start a dialogue with the kids about what rules they want in a space that can be really helpful
if problems come up.
We also held a morning meeting every day, which was a way for us to tell kids what was happening during the day (we had a morning and afternoon block of activities)
and announce things like when we were going swimming or figure out where we going on field trips.
To figure out where'd we go for our weekly Friday field trips, we'd start by taking suggestions from the kids for places to go (with the bounds that we could get there on
public transportation and the cost was no more than roughly $10 / kid) and then everyone voted on where we would go that week. We used approval voting: kids could
vote for as many options as they wanted to. That method of voting has worked really well (taking the strain off of each child to figure out where their *favorite* place is,
and instead asking the simple question of which places sound fun.)
step 13: Trouble!
What did we do when kids didn't follow our rules?
Since we didn't have many, camp had the aura of being a very relaxed and co-operative place. That said, there were still times when the rules needed some follow-up.
We decided not to punish kids in traditional ways, and so that leaves the open question of what do you do when there's trouble?
My first strategy when kids are fighting (verbally or physically) is the conflict resolution tool that I like to call the "long, slow discussion." You sit down with the kids
(together or one by one, depending on the situation), and you start talking to the kids about what happened. Kids often have a freak-out response to talking to adults
when in trouble, a sort of hysterical, gibbering "I didn't do it I didn't do it I didn't do it!" defense mechanism. The goal is to first get past to this by stating clearly that the
goal isn't punishment for what just happened, but rather to figure out what we're going to do so that this doesn't happen again.
Usually, once you introduce the idea of thinking forward (figuring out what rule to put in place so that we don't have the same problem again), kids will slow down. You
can then ask them to relate what happened step by step, and it's important to hear everyone on this. Many times, the situation will turn from murky (a la the great mystery
of "Who started it?") to crystal clear. When it does, you can ask the kids to agree on a rule -- usually temporary and low-key -- in order to prevent the situation from
repeating itself.
This isn't fool-proof, but it's an excellent way of disarming the hysterics that are often a child's first line of defense to being in trouble, and actually figuring out what
happened and what to do.
It's also helpful to switch off with another counselor when you're getting frustrated by the kids you're working with. Ultimately, the big punishment we had was that if a kid
was being unsafe at camp and we couldn't work things out, they'd have to go home for the day or stop coming to camp. This was something we hardly ever had to use or
even mention, but this was the thing giving our rules weight.
For cleaning, we had a clean-up time at the end of every day. This was our one requirement of our kids, and we generally required the place get put back to as clean as it
was in the morning. This is helped by us asking that all projects get cleaned up when they're done, but it's really clean-up time that makes this work. Our control here was
making clean-up time shorter or longer, depending on how productive (chaotic) the day had been. On an average day clean-up time was 20 minutes long. We've at times
used job charts to make the quell the "I don't know what to do!" complaints, though this hasn't been perfect (kids would be confused that they had to keep cleaning for the
duration of 20 minutes when they'd done their assigned job.) With great freedom comes great responsibility!
step 14: When doesn't camp work?
For most kids (about 80 - 90%), they take to camp like water. They wake up, excited, full of ideas, eager to come, and spent the day doing what they want to.
Some kids need some help getting used to camp. The biggest categories I've seen are kids that are really shy, and kids that are socially awkward in some way.
For kids that are really shy, we usually have a number of counselors not doing activities at any given time, and one of their tasks is to look out for anyone who looks a
little bit lonely in a corner, and help find find an activity for them and fold them into the group. We often have an opening activity for kids arriving Monday morning to go, so
that if kids want to, they can meet a few kids and counselors in a small group and gradually orient themselves.
For kids that are socially awkward (for example, if they have trouble sharing, or if they yell at other children when not included), we've found the best thing is to assign a
few counselors to the child and have them work closely with the child. The counselors can check in with the child, and the child can trust that they can go find these
certain adults if they're having trouble and talk to them about what's going on. Often the problem is a matter of the child not knowing how to communicate something
important to them (how to ask for an object or for inclusion in a game), and we've found that these problems can fester if left to their own devices (a child who's not good
at sharing will quickly be faced with the bigger problem of not having any friends and not being able to share!) While some may argue that these natural consequences
are best, in a short-term environment like camp, I feel that providing what help we can with children's communication is the best way to go (though it sure can be tough at
times!)
step 15: Kids teaching themselves!
We ran a workshop on making electromagnets and motors at the MIT Museum last January, and were swamped with way more kids than we were expecting or had the
staff for. On the spot, I came up with the following three rules, inspired by the need to reduce the pressure on our staff and encouraging kids to teach themselves.
If you don't know what to do you should....
1. First, look around and see if you can figure out what to do.
2. If you can't, look around, and either ask a friend or ask another person who looks like they know what they're doing.
3. And if you can't find anyone who looks like they can help, ask an expert (in this case, ask an adult.)
This was shockingly helpful. Lots of requests kids had were simple questions, often as easy "what materials do I need to start/next" -- which they could easily figure out
by observing what was going on or asking another kid to help them. It redirected the various cries of "I'm confused: help!" from the person running the project to everyone
present at the activity -- kids got into the swing of teaching other and things went really well. While it's often not what they're used to (the norm in most schools being stay
quiet and wait for the teach to give instructions), kids take to this decentralized style of doing activities really quickly.
I'm going to end my instructable here. There's lots and lots more to say, and if anyone's got any questions, I'm happy to write more! I've got more bits and pieces about
camp at my blog and will hopefully post instructables of cool camp projects over the summer. Have fun!
Image Notes
1. Hordes of zombie children, craving electromagnets! How to fight them off? Turn them on themselves and get them to teach each other!
Make your own
lightsaber! by
nagle
Ladder Golf PVC Camping
Game by
simplifiedbuilding
Handy Altoids
Sploosh by
Kit by The
Jonathan Robson
magical duct tape
kid
the best ever
backyard
camping by knex
enthusiust
Water bottle
rockets! by
nagle
How to Swim
Freestyle. by
Gbutton
How to Host an
Instructables
Show and Tell
by ewilhelm
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Comments
leohead2012 says:
Dec 17, 2008. 6:52 PM REPLY
This site was super helpful
I had the idea of starting my own camp and needed some resources, thanks
emuman4evr says:
Jun 16, 2008. 8:29 PM REPLY
Very nice instructable, If someone does make a camp I'd like to see a comment on it. What was your average kid turn out?
nagle says:
Jun 16, 2008. 9:06 PM REPLY
Our first year was small: we had 5 - 10 kids each week. The camp has grown really rapidly -- in its second year we had 25 - 35 kids each week, and this
year we're looking at roughly 60 kids each week.
liqueta12 says:
Dec 11, 2008. 6:43 PM REPLY
How is your summer camp going??
amacon says:
Jul 27, 2008. 8:03 PM REPLY
All I can say is "wow!" This instructable has been invaluable. Starting a summer camp has been my dream for the past quarter century. Finding this on the
internet tonight seems like kismet. I think it's high time I made my dream a reality. Thank you!
liqueta12 says:
Dec 11, 2008. 6:42 PM REPLY
Have you gotten started with your summer camp??
leahbuechley says:
Nov 26, 2008. 5:55 AM REPLY
Fantastic instructable! I love that don't hurt anybody sign :)
MasterMediaXD says:
Nov 1, 2008. 3:38 PM REPLY
did you know that they are taking apart a CD drive that has invisible lasers that can be potentially harmful if power is supplied these invisible laser can
sometimes blind if looked into directly(when power is supplied)!
MasterMediaXD says:
Nov 1, 2008. 3:46 PM REPLY
I noticed that it would be OK if there is supervision to make sure power is not supplied and all power leads are taken away! sorry for causing any stress
from what I said before!
elbel86 says:
Aug 3, 2008. 6:52 PM REPLY
It seems to be a very good instructable for a day care or something, but what was described here does not sound like a summer camp to me. Summercamp
is outdoors, and involves actual camping (ya know, in tents). Still quite good, just not what i expected when i clicked the link.
N-Striker says:
Jun 22, 2008. 7:08 AM REPLY
daddy day camp lol. rated pg.
Juklop says:
Jun 17, 2008. 11:28 AM REPLY
Can I use the same concept to start a cult?
:D
solo.card says:
Jun 17, 2008. 8:46 AM REPLY
For someone who's going to be working at a summer camp very soon (5 days! Scary...) I find this very interesting!
T3h_Muffinator says:
Jun 17, 2008. 8:40 AM REPLY
That's really cool!
I have plans to start a primary school (way) later in life, but starting a camp first would be a great idea.
Thanks for the tips/instructions!
msmith9899 says:
Jun 16, 2008. 4:44 AM REPLY
Excellent instructable! I've been thinking of starting a similar maker-style camp and this has been very helpful. Thanks for the inspiration!
Teleport hats
by koefoed on November 7, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: Teleport hats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Find yarn and crochet needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Start crocheting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 3: Pay attention to form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 4: Start making the base of the hat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
step 5: Adapt design of the set's hats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 6: Trying on the (finished) hats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 7: Carry the hat with you at all times . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 8: Demonstrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
6
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
6
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
http://www.instructables.com/id/Teleport_hats/
intro: Teleport hats
This instructable describes how to make a set of teleport hats. A teleport hat is a crocheted hat which doubles as a device with which you can teleport yourself to a
person wearing the same type of hat in case you miss oneanother and want to be together without the hassle of driving, jetting or biking there.
This particular set is made in the free-form crochet style: there is no exact pattern to crochet from, instead you crochet in an iterative process alternating between
crocheting and trying the hat on for size and pattern adaptations.
Disclaimer: It is of course not a functioning device but it works well as a gift for someone you miss or someone who misses another person madly as it provides an
opportunity to take some kind of action when ordinary options like driving, jetting or biking are not feasible even if the action is only symbolic.
step 1: Find yarn and crochet needle
First step is to decide on which colors the hat will have. Three colors make the most striking hat - remember that it is supposed to be a hat that makes the wearer happy
as it will be associated with missing the company of a specific person.
Also find a crochet needle that matches the yarn. If given a choice in size, opt for the largest one in the spectrum of the yarn's abilities as the hat will be more adaptable
to the wearer's head if crocheted in a loose manner.
step 2: Start crocheting
The crochet can begin. Start with the top as it is the only way to get a really pointy top which is needed for the teleport effect to occur. Make your way 'down' the hat by
alternating the colors of yarn in a pattern that you find appealing.
step 3: Pay attention to form
Make sure you pay close attention to the form of the pointy top while you crochet it. It needs to be pointy but on the other hand it does not need to look like santa's hat.
step 4: Start making the base of the hat
When the pointy top is about 2 inches long you have to begin making the actual hat which will fit snugly to the head so that it doesn't fall off during the teleportation.
Notice how the color pattern of this particular specimen is enhancing the feeling of speed and rotation in the pointy top. An important part of the design in order for the hat
to appear as if it could have been used for teleportation had the technology been invented.
step 5: Adapt design of the set's hats
If making a set, make sure the hats share some of the design (color, pattern or other) in order for them to look like a set.
Make sure you try the hats on frequently during the crocheting part of the design as you are making it in the free-form style and not from a pattern as such.
step 6: Trying on the (finished) hats
It is important to try on the hats in front of a mirror or by help of a camera during the design process. It is the only way you can make sure that sizing and pattern is
optimal. You will probably be surprised how difficult it is to envision the final look of the hats without trying them on.
step 7: Carry the hat with you at all times
After the finishing of the hats and after having made sure that your missed one has received one of the hats, don't forget to bring the hat everywhere you go. If you are a
laptop owner, your laptop bag is likely to be the perfect hiding place for the hat.
In this way you can always be prepared to seek comfort in knowing that the hat is a symbolic link to the person you miss.
The hat can of course also be made as boots (perfect for babies) or other clothing items as well, although the hat is the item to bring out the most smiles in your
surroundings. And if you're sad it is nice to be smiled at.
step 8: Demonstrate
If necessary, provide instructional video with your teleport hat when you send it to the one you are likely to be missing.
Video
Never too many
hats...
(slideshow) by
irynton
****CrochetSanta Hat and
Scarf****
(slideshow) by
countrybumpkin
Crochet
Hat/Scarf
Venture for the
LionBrand
Challenge
(slideshow) by
cronicky
Life is too short
to wear a boring
hat! (slideshow)
by
offthehookhats
Crocheted Girls
Caps (slideshow)
by PeggyCarty
Winter/Spring
collection from
Minx designs
(slideshow) by
Carol Verna
Beginning
Crochet Movie 3
(video) by
tlmacnolan
Brimmed Hat
(slideshow) by
sewcrafty
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Comments
7 comments
Add Comment
Turpis says:
Nov 21, 2008. 10:11 AM REPLY
do you think i could make one big enough for my childhood?
I smell bacon says:
Nov 19, 2008. 7:16 PM REPLY
The only place this hat teleported me was the principals office for "not complying with uniform standards".
fwjs28 says:
YESSSHHHH!now i can teleport back to mars......
Nov 19, 2008. 5:43 PM REPLY
jessyratfink says:
Nov 19, 2008. 6:08 AM REPLY
That video was amazing!
I am jealous of your teleporting skills. :D
leahbuechley says:
Nov 15, 2008. 11:14 AM REPLY
It looks like the top of one hat fits into the top of the other. Are these little soul mate tops?
koefoed says:
Nov 15, 2008. 12:19 PM REPLY
yes in this particular case they are made to be soul mates.
leahbuechley says:
Nov 15, 2008. 11:27 AM REPLY
cool!
I can totally see all sorts of possibilities here. a little secret society of funky hat people? secret messages in clothes... how fun it would be to meet someone
new in person via shared hat patterns!
TV-B-Gone Hoodie
by bekathwia on September 11, 2008
Table of Contents
intro: TV-B-Gone Hoodie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 1: Prep the circuit board and battery holder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
step 2: Affix the circuit to the sweatshirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 3: Stitch the traces on the sweatshirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
step 4: Stitch the zipper switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
5
step 5: Attach the batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
step 6: Enjoy! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
7
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
8
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
http://www.instructables.com/id/TV_B_Gone_Hoodie/
intro: TV-B-Gone Hoodie
Whenever I bring my TV-B-Gone out to restaurants, I always look real suspicious holding it up and pointing it around, so I've been looking for a more subtle and dinnerappropriate solution. I got zippered hoodie sweatshirt from the thrift store which had a convenient logo on the upper left front, complete with rhinestones! I thought the IR
LEDs would blend in quite nicely, so I stitched it into the sweatshirt. The batteries are in the pocket. I broke out the pushbutton leads and used conductive thread to sew
paths to the edge of the zipper, which has a metal pull. I made two little pads with the thread that are bridged by the zipper pull when it passes by, so all I have to do is
zip the sweatshirt up or down to activate the TV turning-off action. Works great! You can see the project at my website, or view the full image set on Flickr.
This is an advanced tutorial. For a basic intro to sewing with conductive thread, please see my electronic embroidery tutorial.
Materials:
-TV-B-Gone kit - adafruit
-conductive thread - sparkfun
-regular thread
-hooded sweatshirt with metal zipper pull and front pocket (thrift store?)
-wire
-fabric swatch
-heat shrink tubing
Tools:
-awl
-hand sewing needle
-sewing machine
-scissors
-soldering iron & solder (for assembling tvbgone kit and attaching wires)
-sandpaper
-sewing pins
Image Notes
1. IR LEDs
2. Metal zipper pull
3. conductive thread switch pads
4. conductive traces
step 1: Prep the circuit board and battery holder
Assemble your tv-b-gone circuit according to the instructions. Break out the leads of the push button That have traces connected to them on the PCB with wires. Strip and
coil the ends of the wires to prepare for sewing. Attach wires to the power leads with stripped and coiled ends as well. Make sure the leads of the battery holder are long
enough to reach the top of the pocket, and extend them if necessary. Stitch the coiled leads to a fabric swatch with conductive thread, then stitch little pads of conductive
thread that are easy to stitch over with the machine. Machine stitch in a small zigzag to connect to this pad, then to the edge of the fabric with a straight stitch. Hand stitch
more pads at the bottom edge of the fabric swatch.
Image Notes
1. machine stitched conductive traces
2. sew pads along this edge
3. hand stitched leads connected to machine stitching
Image Notes
1. switch leads
2. ground
3. power
Image Notes
1. pads for connecting to machine stitching
step 2: Affix the circuit to the sweatshirt
Use an awl to poke holes for the LEDs to stick through, then stick them through the holes. Tack down the circuit board using a hem stitch, but make sure to test that your
tvbgone circuit functions (according to Limor's instructions) before hiding it between layers of fabric.
step 3: Stitch the traces on the sweatshirt
From the front of the garment, feel out where the conductive pads you sewed on the swatch are. Mark them with pins, and stitch lines from the two switch leads to the
edge of the zipper, being sure not to cross the leads. At first I tried to use conductive thread for the power, too, but it turned out that the resistance accrued over such a
distance was prohibitively high, so I later added two small flexible wires (stranded wire) to connect the battery to the circuit board.
Image Notes
1. pins marking where the conductive sewing pads are on the inside
Image Notes
1. stitched with the machine
Image Notes
1. alligator clips are handy for debugging thread problems
step 4: Stitch the zipper switch
If you leave long enough tails when you machine stitch the switch leads, you can just thread your needle with the tail and keep sewing. Stitch little pads right next to the
zipper that will be bridged by the zipper pull. Sand any excess paint off of the area of the zipper pull that will come into contact with the thread, including in between the
little teeth.
Image Notes
1. just close enough together to be bridged by the zipper pull when it passes by
Image Notes
1. one switch lead
2. other switch lead
Image Notes
1. sandy sand sand, ch ch ch ch
step 5: Attach the batteries
Like I mentioned earlier, I tried to use conductive thread to attach the batteries. It ended up not being able to power the board (too much resistance in the long thread), so
I added stranded wire to make the battery connections. Either way, I put the holder in the pocket and poked the leads through the inside.
Image Notes
1. poke the battery leads through from the pocket
Image Notes
1. just using the thread wasn't enough, so I ended up soldering wires here.
Image Notes
1. alligator clips are handy for debugging thread problems
Image Notes
1. this is the wire I used for power.
2. leave a portion un-tacked until you're sure it works.
step 6: Enjoy!
Test out your zipper switch and get crackin'!
Image Notes
1. see how the zipper pull bridges the two pads to make a connection?
Image Notes
1. brand name so as blend in with the normal folks at the places with TVs.
Conductive
Thread inside a
Fabric Bias
Tube aka Tubes
of
Conductiveness
by Lynne Bruning
Machine
Embroidery
covering
Conductive
Thread by Lynne
Bruning
LED Dove
Soft-circuit LED Ornament by
Bracelet by
Syuzi
REACTIVEFashion
Sewable
Arduino
Interface by
Plusea
Angelina
Fusible Fibers
with Conductive
Thread by Lynne
Bruning
RoBot Gets Etextiled. Worlds
First Ever
Interactive Bot
on Fabric by
Lftndbt
Fabric bend
sensor
(slideshow) by
Plusea
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Comments
qwertyboy says:
Dec 2, 2008. 1:58 PM REPLY
hey, this is ladyada's kit, isn't it?
bekathwia says:
Dec 2, 2008. 3:16 PM REPLY
yes, I believe I state that in the introduction!
mitch says:
Nov 22, 2008. 10:28 AM REPLY
I met bekathwia at the Austin Maker Faire last month, and she actually made one of these wonderful hoodies for me. I wore it on my way to my trip to Lisbon,
Portugal, last week (to teach people hardware hacking at Codebits, a really nice hacker conference), and wore it almost the entire trip!.
I had a lot of fun with my hoodie, and a bunch more peace, everywhere I went. Hard to believe, but there are even more TVs in Lisbon businesses than in
San Francisco (where I live). (Of course, I re-programmed my TV-B-Gone to use the European database before my trip.)
Along with the ultra-cool zipper trigger, bekathwia added another innovation to my hoodie: using small metal snaps to connect the cloth-covered TV-B-Gone
unit to the hoodie so that it can simply snap out when you want to wash the hoodie. There are also snaps on the ends of the wires that lead from the TV-BGone to the battery pack in the pocket. The cool thing about the metal snaps is that it makes easily-removable/replaceable electrical connections.
The hoodie was wonderful in Lisbon. With the EU database there were only three (out of 50 bizillion) TVs I couldn't turn off. Lots of fun. I had waiters and
managers climbing on chairs (and ignoring customers) trying to figure out how to keep their TVs on -- much more entertaining than the distraction of the
televisions. And eventually they would give up, and leaving the space nice enough for everyone to eat and converse in peace.
After a few days of travel and abuse the wires to the battery pack broke. I tried a few different approaches throughout the rest of my week traveling, and
finally came up with a way to keep everything happy.
- For the snaps connecting to the battery holder in the pocket: I used hot glue to keep them sturdy on the coat lining.
- For the mating snaps on the wires going up the coat to the TV-B-Gone: I used hot glue to provide strain relief.
- I sewed three sections of Velcro to the coat lining, and used mating Velcro to cover the wires leading up from the battery holder snaps to the TV-B-Gone -this way the wires no longer move around and get snagged.
Since the above improvements, everything has been rock solid, and I find I don't have to think about it at all till I want to use it.
Another thing I did was replace the 2 AA battery holder (that lives in my hoodie's left pocket) with a 3 AA battery holder. This provides a bunch more power
for turning off TVs (either from longer away or from more oblique angles). Another bonus: the battery holder I used (from Jameco) has a built in On-Off
switch. I normally leave the switch powered Off. When I turn the switch On (discreetly, by just putting my hand in my pocket), it resets the TV-B-Gone and it
starts transmitting. This is an additional method for triggering the TV-B-Gone (along with the ultra-cool zipper method).
I wore the hoodie through customs and security all five times (SFO, Frankfurt, Lisbon, Frankfurt, SFO) without any problem at all. Though the first time
through Frankfurt the security X-Ray guy kept zooming in and out and panning around on the image of wires and electronics in my coat -- but after a few
seconds just let it through along with everything else.
I'm going away to Europe for 7 more weeks starting Thursday. I'm bringing my hoodie with me!
Cheers,
Mitch.
Evil Bike says:
Nov 27, 2008. 11:11 AM REPLY
can you buy an already made one?
bekathwia says:
Nov 28, 2008. 9:08 AM REPLY
I made one special for Mitch, but I'm willing to do commissions. The deal is that you send me a jacket with a metal zipper pull (but non-metal zipper
teeth), and I'll transform it for you. You can make a custom item request for this in my etsy shop.
bekathwia says:
Nov 22, 2008. 11:17 AM REPLY
Yay! I'm glad you found a solution for the long wires on the inside. I didn't want to sew them down so that the whole unit was removable, but I was
worried about them snagging. The battery holder in mine has broken several times, too. I'm so glad you like it!
Becky
leahbuechley says:
Nov 15, 2008. 11:06 AM REPLY
I love this instructable!
The layers of DIY are awesome - building on Limor's kit to make this lovely new thing & showing us how to do it. & that zipper switch is just soo cool!
Firebert010 says:
Sep 13, 2008. 5:01 PM REPLY
Great, great, GREAT Instructible.
This is quality. This is a perfect example for anyone who doesn't know how to do it.
Awesome instructions, awesome pictures and one awesome Instructible.
+5
bumpus says:
Oct 18, 2008. 9:49 AM REPLY
Instructable*
Buahahah
:D
Firebert010 says:
Oct 18, 2008. 11:51 AM REPLY
Instructible = 'Ible = singular
Instructables = plural
bumpus says:
Oct 18, 2008. 7:09 PM REPLY
OOooOOOoooo.
Pulled that out of your bum?
Haha
crazywickedmagicmonkeyman says:
Oct 9, 2008. 2:04 PM REPLY
is it possible to make this with the premade tvb gone
bekathwia says:
Oct 9, 2008. 2:10 PM REPLY
Yes, all you have to do is extend the battery wires and break two wires out from the switch to go to the zipper!
Superninjacamper941 says:
Sep 25, 2008. 12:32 PM REPLY
does the tv b gone do any damage to the tv
bekathwia says:
Sep 25, 2008. 1:06 PM REPLY
No, it does the exact same thing as a remote control when you press the "power" button. It just turns it off, that's all. Actually, if it's already off, it will turn
the tv back on!
schimmi says:
Sep 18, 2008. 4:10 PM REPLY
ingeniously clever!
jod806 says:
Sep 18, 2008. 12:21 PM REPLY
This is awesome I may add something like this to my blazer that has LEDs in the sleeves for light. I followed a tutorial from another website to install leds ran
in series using to small buttons on the inside of the sleeve. When you use your thumb and pinky to push the buttons the leds light up, also saves from having
to worry about accidentally turning on due to accidentally hitting a button.
I'm gonna think about how I'd like to install something like this on that blazer now, still using push-button since there's no zipper hehe
lifelong-newbie says:
Sep 15, 2008. 9:11 AM REPLY
Nice ible. Especially liked the idea of the zipper switch it's pretty covert and a great use of out of the box thinking. Well done.
alex-sharetskiy says:
Sep 13, 2008. 4:41 PM REPLY
Clever!
yankees9494 says:
Sep 13, 2008. 11:53 AM REPLY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICpM3ItIhI0 <T.V B Gone in action, for those who don't know the endless amount of havic you can wreak with it.
mitch says:
Sep 12, 2008. 7:22 AM REPLY
I've been thinking of doing this for a long time (but adding IR emitters around the perimeter of the hood -- lots of emitters! (and plenty of batteries) Anyway, I
am so glad you did this. Yay!
Mitch (inventor of TV-B-Gone).
bekathwia says:
Sep 13, 2008. 11:48 AM REPLY
Thanks Mitch!! =]
joejoerowley says:
Sep 13, 2008. 9:18 AM REPLY
Very Cool!
jimtran93 says:
Sep 11, 2008. 3:58 PM REPLY
ehhh, the idea is great....
..... but the LED's are kind of popping out of the jacket!
maybe if you could make the LED's flush with the cloth, then it would look normal-ish... just an idea
tagtag says:
Sep 13, 2008. 5:54 AM REPLY
Ideally you could use a sweatshirt / jacket that had some form of logo that could be lit up with regular LEDs. Im thinking perhaps a design of a head with
lights in the eyes or surrounding the border. Baiscally you could have regular LED's light up and if anyone asks you simply say that those particular lights
have gone out and you havent replaced them yet.
bekathwia says:
Sep 11, 2008. 4:32 PM REPLY
I'm hoping that the rhinestones help camouflage the LEDs. The reason they stick out so far is so that the viewing angle isn't obstructed. LEDs have a
certain angle that they cast light in, and the ones on the end have a particularly wide angle, making it important that the cap sticks as far through the
fabric as possible.
Cryptonat says:
Sep 13, 2008. 7:35 AM REPLY
You could remove the rhinestones and put the LEDs in their place.... Unless you aren't looking for soldering and etc..
bekathwia says:
Sep 13, 2008. 11:48 AM REPLY
Well, I already soldered together the kit, so that's no problem. I'm just hoping there's enough complexity in that logo area to make them not stick
out if you're not looking for them! =]
Rokko8652 says:
Sep 20, 2008. 7:56 PM REPLY
Maybe use those one type of flat rectangular LEDs so they are flush with the cloth? just a suggestion
jktechwriter says:
Sep 11, 2008. 12:26 PM REPLY
EXCELLENT! I love it... how about adding a functional cell phone blocker/jammer to the hoodie and eliminate those annoying cell phone talkers at
restaurants?
=SMART= says:
coll phone jammers are illegal to own / operate in 99% of countries
Sep 11, 2008. 3:21 PM REPLY
jktechwriter says:
Sep 11, 2008. 4:51 PM REPLY
joke...
... maybe...
James (pseudo-geek) says:
Sep 12, 2008. 4:27 PM REPLY
Its REALLY easy to make one that works in a 300 ft radius....and it doesn't use IR LEDs, its radio (obviously), so you would need this whole
setup. just put it in your pocket.
=SMART= says:
Sep 11, 2008. 3:21 PM REPLY
*cell
shooby says:
Sep 11, 2008. 1:10 PM REPLY
This is awesome, great job
HuggyBear says:
Sep 11, 2008. 5:59 PM REPLY
How do you wash it?
bekathwia says:
Sep 11, 2008. 7:10 PM REPLY
Take the batteries out and wash by hand. Allow to dry completely before putting the batteries back in. If I were clever about it, I could have attached the
circuit panel and battery pack via snaps to the conductive traces sewn onto the actual sweatshirt, allowing for easy removal of the circuit and batteries.
Then maybe it could go in the machine, but i'm not sure if the washing machine would agitate it too much to remove the conductive fibers imbued in the
threads.
Weissensteinburg says:
Sep 11, 2008. 1:29 PM REPLY
Now that is tricky!
mg0930mg says:
Nice job!
Sep 11, 2008. 12:27 PM REPLY

DIY for CHI - University of California, Berkeley

Transcription

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